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INTRODUCTION ...... 3 FIT ...... 4 COLOURS ...... 13 BUILDING A ...... 19 BRAND AND PRICE ...... 23 ...... 25 , , AND POLOS ...... 30 PANTS AND ...... 42 UNDERWEAR ...... 52 AND ...... 56 AND TIES ...... 62 ACCESSORIES ...... 72 3 INTRODUCTION

A great thing about modern style is that things have relaxed somewhat from the 'old days'.

We no longer have to put on a , tie, and just to go out in public.

However, in some cases, we men (as well as women) have gotten a little too comfortable.

There are still boundaries, and people will have far more respect for you if you look like you've made an effort to appropriately.

Because dressing appropriately means that you respect them—and yourself.

Comfort has never been a justification for looking subpar.

If we're honest, wearing a leather , , and decent shoes is no less comfortable than wearing a track suit and trainers.

It can be frustrating when you're dressed well and see other guys wearing their pyjamas in public.

You may think, 'Why did I bother?'

It's times like these when you need to remind yourself:

You bothered because you cared.

And rest assured that there ARE people who care that you care.

Here's the bonus:

When you dress for success, your self-confidence will soar. It never fails. 4 FIT

The Single Most Important Aspect of Any Garment

You might agree with me on this:

'Colour, price, and brand have nothing to say when you’re buying a new or a pair of …

… IF the fit is totally wrong for you.’

With that said:

Regardless of your body shape or posture, determining if a garment has the right fit is easy. In fact, you can be an expert at it by the end of this chapter.

Just follow the remarkably simple guidelines below:

Why You Need to Know More Than 'W × L' When Buying Trousers

There’s more to buying pants than just getting the and length measurements right, but fortunately, not much more.

As you’ll see here:

The waist measurement of your pants is indicated with a 'W', and it's the measurement around your waist, at the of your hipbones.

The length is also called the inseam; regardless, it's indicated with an 'L' on your jeans tag. This is the measurement from the crotch seam to the hem. Ideally, the leg should end approximately an inch above the sole of your foot.

If you’re wearing shoes, the hems of the pants should rest on top of your shoes, creating one fold or break in the leg fabric.

Besides the width and length, we also have the cut and the rise.

The cut isn’t so much of a measurement as it is an ambiguous standard that indicates the shape of the leg.

Trouser cuts are commonly divided into straight, tapered, slim, and skinny.

Straight legs are of the same width from the knees to the hems, while tapered legs get slightly narrower from the knee down.

Tapered pants have the most classic cut and, if you have an average body build, would probably be most flattering to you. !5 Slim and skinny pants have narrower thighs in addition to being tapered, with the skinny cut having the tightest fit.

Unless you have the physique of a marathon runner, skinny pants can easily get too tight.

Fashion and personal preference have also created different rise measurements. The rise is basically the length of your .

We typically distinguish among low-, regular-, and high-rise pants, with a regular rise being the most classic and the best-looking.

The waistline of pants with a regular rise typically sits two inches below your belly button.

For shorts, the waist and rise guidelines are the same as they are for pants.

Also, if you wear straight-leg or tapered pants, you’ll typically look good in regular shorts as well.

The best length for your shorts all depends on one thing:

Do you have thin or muscular legs?

If you have thin legs, your shorts should end at the top of your knee, while muscular legs look best in mid-thigh shorts.

Your shorts length should be in proportion to your legs. !6 !7 How a Wristwatch Can Help You Decide If Your Shirt Fits

Asking your average retail employee if your shirt fits is like asking an insurance salesman if you need any insurance … They’ll both say, 'Yes!'

Well, it might not be that bad, but the best thing to do when trying on shirts— or any type of garment—is to rely upon your own judgement.

The first thing to do after you’ve put on a shirt, is to button all its buttons; however, leave it untucked—you’ll see why below.

You can only check if the is the right size when you have buttoned it up (like you would if you were wearing a tie or ).

To check the collar, simply insert two fingers between it and your neck. If the collar is still comfortable to wear without being too tight or loose, it’s the right size.

At the same time, you'll want to check the fabric at the back, especially right under the collar. An ill-fitting shirt will form a fold here, while the fabric of a good shirt will lie flat across the back when you’re standing straight.

The shoulders and chest are next. Here, it’s important that the shoulder actually ends where you can feel the end of your shoulder bone …

… not on top of it and not on the side of it.

If the shirt is too tight across the chest, the fabric won't lie flat between the buttons, and you'll see the front placket being pulled on. A correctly sized shirt shouldn’t show any of this, and the fabric should lie flat and relaxed without sagging.

We’ll move downwards to the arms, where we check the length of the shirtsleeves. They should reach down to your hands, but no further.

The cuffs should also be roomy enough to accommodate you wristwatch, so make sure to wear your when shopping.

If the cuffs are too tight, they won't fall naturally onto your hands. This creates a less-than-ideal look—especially when wearing a or — as all you'll see are bare wrists where the cuffs should be.

All you have left to check now is the cut and the length of the shirttails.

Shirttails first.

They should reach down over your butt, or to the bottom of your fly. Any higher and you’ll have a problem keeping that shirt tucked in.

Speaking of tucking, next you want to tuck the shirt in and check the cut. A shirt with the right cut for you should not balloon when it’s tucked into your trousers. !8 However, it shouldn't be so snug that you have to suck in your stomach, either. !9 !10 The All-Important Half-Inch Rule of Suit Jackets and

The important thing when trying on blazers and suit jackets is:

Wear a when doing so.

This is because you can only check the sleeve length when you wear a shirt underneath.

But …

… before we move on to the sleeves, we need to make sure that the shoulders sit where they should. Again, the shoulder seams should lie along the edge of your shoulder bone.

If you get this right, a good tailor can modify practically everything else to fit you. But why not make sure that your off-the-rack jacket has a tailored fit without sending it to the tailor?

That's why the next thing you'll want to check is the back—as with your shirt— to make sure that there’s no fold forming under the jacket collar.

The sleeves are next, and now you’ll see why it's so important to wear a shirt. The jacket's sleeves should expose about a half-inch of shirt cuff; any less, and your jacket will look too big.

Now we'll move on to the .

These should lie flat across your chest when you’ve buttoned your jacket (see Page 64 on how to button different suit jackets and blazers). If the lapels bulge out and leave a gap, the jacket is too small, and you should try a larger size.

While you’re at it, makes sure there’s no pulling on the buttons, as this indicates a too-narrow cut.

Finally, let's check the length of the jacket.

If everything else fits, this is most likely okay. But if you want to double-check, the bottom of the jacket should reach down to the bottom of your fly—no lower or higher. !11 !12 Coats and Jackets: The Easiest Garments to Get Right

Jackets and coats are one of the garments men buy the least frequently; that’s why …

… we need to make sure that the fit is absolutely perfect.

There seems to be some confusion about how a —or jacket, for that matter—should fit.

The truth is that it shouldn’t sag or look roomy.

If that’s what you’ve come to expect from a coat or jacket in order for it not to restrict your movements, the fault is most likely in the design of the garment, rather than the fit.

Shop around and try on different brands and sizes before buying, and you’ll see that there’s a wide variety in fit and comfort.

With that said …

… this is the easiest type of garment to get the fit right on.

As long as you can tick off these three criteria, you’re set:

1. The shoulders should end where the arms start. For coats, shoulders should also be loose enough to accommodate a suit jacket.

2. The arms should reach down to your wrists, much like the length of and shirt sleeves.

3. The width should be large enough to fit over the rest of your clothes, yet it should be snug enough that you can see your form when it’s buttoned. !13 !14 COLOURS

Finding Your Colours Is Easier Than You Think

I think we all can agree that all men could look twice as good if they were better at picking and matching colours.

I’ve read countless books about style, and not one has gone into any depth on this important topic.

The strange thing is …

… that instead of looking dull, you'll radiate health, joy, and sex appeal in clothing colours that match your own colouring, which you’re about to learn.

Because this chapter is dedicated to helping you discover the awesome colours that work to your advantage.

Choosing Colours

Many books have been written for women on the topic of colour. Most of these books are fairly complicated.

The good news:

Colour for men is far easier to navigate.

Because fewer men use hair colour, makeup, and coloured contacts, most of us are working with our natural colouring, which doesn’t vary from day to day.

So it's easy to see what really looks good on us. !15 Finding the Colours That Make You Look Good

Most people look better in either warm or cool colours.

• Cool colours include green, blue, and violet.

• Warm colours include yellow, red, and orange. You may also notice whether you look best in light, mid-tone, or dark colours.

This often corresponds to your hair and skin tone.

Fair-haired blondes tend to wear light tints well, and dark-skinned men with brown or black hair usually look best in deeper shades.

What you should do now is:

Try on a bunch of shirts in all solid warm and cool colours.

Even try on those colours you never wear, such as pink, lavender, or perhaps yellow.

Make sure you are close to a window in bright daylight, not under fluorescent light.

As you are trying on different shirts, take photos of yourself in each of them.

When you’re done, browse through the photos you took and find those colours that draw attention to your face (not your shirt) and make you look vibrant and healthy.

For this last step, try asking some of your friends for their opinions; they often see things a bit differently than you do. !16 !17 How to Make Your Clothes Colours Work Together

Hues are the colours of the rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and violet.

Hues also include tints (lighter versions) and shades (darker versions), such as pink, navy, and mustard.

It's difficult to wear more than one hue at a time well.

However, different shades and tints of a colour—such as navy blue with light blue—make for a great look.

Neutrals include black, grey, white, brown, tan, and beige.

These are easy to mix and match with the more colourful items in your wardrobe.

That’s why suits and pants should be in neutral colours; they make it easier to create multiple looks by simply changing your shirt and tie.

Black, grey, and white look best with cool colours, while brown, tan, and beige are great with warm colours.

Certain hues have come to work like neutrals.

For example, even though a navy suit and jeans are both a shade of blue, they can go with a variety of other colours, as can light blue.

Olive green and burgundy are other 'neutral' colours.

When it comes to coordinating an outfit, here's the trick you need to know: !18 Keep your colours all warm or all cool.

Basically, this means that you'll look great if you wear:

A sage green shirt with khaki pants and brown shoes.

OR

A light blue shirt with grey pants and black shoes.

Here’s How You Look Better When Layering Colours

A layered look is all about variety.

So how do you know how to choose colours when layering?

It's a piece of cake:

Start with the lightest pieces for the innermost layers, such as a T-shirt, polo, or collared shirt.

Then work outwards to the darkest layers.

That's all there is to it.

Black is the exception. It can be worn under lighter colours.

A black shirt with a grey suit is a classic example of this. !19 BUILDING A WARDROBE

Can You Spend Less on Clothes and Get More Outfits?

If you're REALLY into men’s style, you can read a 300-page book about menswear.

But many of you will still be left wondering:

'What pieces should I have in my wardrobe?'

You're in luck.

Whether you're just starting out or starting over, I'm going to share with you my ULTIMATE LIST of basic garments, which I’ve developed over years of trial and error.

Own These Pieces, and You'll Always Have an Awesome Outfit Ready • 1 x navy suit • 2 x solid-coloured polo shirts

• 1 x grey suit • 2 x pairs of dark jeans

• 1 x dark coat • 1 x pair of black leather shoes

• 1 x black • 1 x pair of canvas

• 2 x white shirts • 1 x narrow black leather

• 1 x blue shirt • 1 x narrow canvas belt (the same colour as your sneakers) • 1 x navy blue tie

• 1 x solid-coloured V-neck sweater !20 !21 Practically all the garments on the list can be worn with each other.

This means that with very few items, you’ll be able to create a huge variety of outfits without spending a bundle on clothes.

For example:

Instead of owning two different pairs of pants that you can only wear on specific occasions, you should instead own two pairs of dark jeans.

You can wear these every day of the week, from casual Fridays at the office to a date or a night out with the guys.

The leather shoes are another example. Rather than buying three pairs of shoes for one occasion each, the one pair I suggest looks awesome on any occasion, thereby cutting your potential expenses by a third.

Your next question is probably this:

'Is that really all the clothes I need?'

Well, yes and no.

It depends where you work and what you do in your free time.

If you work from home or already have a work , you'll probably be all set with just the garments on this list—or less.

However, some men may want more shirts, shoes, and so on.

If you find the list a little short, do not think of it as the only garments you can own. !22 Instead …

… think of this list as a proven springboard into the world of classic style, to get you started now, for as little money as possible.

Build from this foundation, and you'll always have a confident style and an awesome outfit ready. !23 BRAND AND PRICE

Why Name Brands and Price Tags Should Mean Squat to You

Many people assume that because a brand makes one high-quality product, ALL their products have the same standard of quality.

This is rarely the case. Take this example:

Lacoste is renowned for its polo shirts. The company basically invented this shirt back in 1926.

I love Lacoste polos, but that doesn’t mean I love all of the brand's products.

On the contrary, it offers products I wouldn’t even consider wearing, let alone spend money on.

That’s why I wouldn’t buy any of Lacoste’s collared shirts, but I'd be happy to pay a premium for their awesome polo shirts.

Other examples:

• I wouldn’t buy a Converse jacket, but I would buy their sneakers.

• I wouldn’t buy a suit at H&M, but I can’t get enough of their underwear.

• I wouldn’t by a sweater from Belstaff, but I’d love to buy one of their leather jackets.

The lesson to take home here is that it shouldn’t be about the brand or price; it should be about the quality and value of the product itself.

How do we know if a product is of good value? !24 Whenever I buy a product I haven’t purchased before, I ask myself these questions:

•What materials are used? Check the care label to find out if it’s synthetic polyester, comfortable , or warm, wrinkle-free wool.

•Is the fit as it should be? Consult this book's chapter about fit (see Page 4) to be sure. You’d be surprised how poor the fit of some high-end products is.

•Is the price fair? If a product weren’t brand-name, would you still be happy paying the price on the tag, considering the materials, fit, and colours?

•Is the logo flashy or too busy?

Now that I know it’s about the quality of the garment and not the brand, I keep logos to a minimum. They’re neither pretty nor practical. !25 SHOES

The Foundation of Your Outfit

You might agree with me when I say that shoes are the most important item of clothing.

If you wear the right , it'll reward you by accenting your appearance above all competition.

Otherwise, it’ll destroy all your effort to look good.

In this chapter, you’ll learn how easy it is to make sure you’re always wearing the right shoes for the occasion.

And here’s how you do that:

Here Are the Best Classic, Everyday Shoes for You

As modern men, we're busy, social, and looking good!

That’s why we love practical and comfortable everyday shoes that can take us anywhere, while looking pristine and requiring little attention on the care front.

Good examples of shoes that meet all these criteria are sneakers, open-lacing leather shoes (bluchers), monkstraps, brogues (wingtips), Chelsea , and chukka boots. !26

None of these looks too dressy, and depending on the activity and occasion, one might be just as good as the other.

Which you choose depends on your personal preference, but if you're wearing brogues with a suit, proceed with caution—as they are regarded as sporty and should never be worn with dark suits.

For that reason …

… if you only get one pair of leather shoes, make sure they’re open-lacing black leather shoes—called Derbies in Germany, while in the US and UK, they’re called bluchers.

The Only Pair of Dress and Business Shoes You’ll Ever Need

Dress shoes can be worn with a tuxedo or a suit without a hitch.

Two features common to good dress shoes are leather soles and closed lacing.

Leather soles are a staple of good craftsmanship, while closed lacing gives the shoes a more elegant look than open lacing.

Patent leather has had its popularity, but many agree that a pair of nice leather shoes looks better—as long you’ve polished them to a gloss.

You'll find several different styles and features of dress shoes, such as toe , toes, and split toes.

These varieties differ in popularity, with toe caps being the most popular and dressiest option. !27

Regarding the colour …

… back in the day, Ford Motor Company supposedly stated that you could buy their Model T in any colour, as long as it was black.

Whether this is true or not, the rule definitely applies here.

The only colour option you have for dress shoes is black.

And the best dress shoes out there are, in my opinion, black toe- Oxfords. !28 These Casual Shoes Will Make You Look Cool

These shoes symbolise freedom from chores and nagging bosses.

Casual footwear is more about comfort and fun than conformity and labour.

Some of the most popular casual shoes are boat shoes, sneakers, loafers, and .

Sneakers come in all sorts of colours; dark blue and black take you from day to night, while white sneakers should be left at home if it's later than 6 p.m.

No matter what leisure activity you're embarking on, rest assured that there’s a casual shoe for the occasion.

Boat shoes and sandals really work with shorts and chinos only.

However, sneakers, monkstraps, and loafers are very versatile and look at home with jeans, chinos, and even dress pants. !29 What You Need to Know About Athletic Footwear

Athletic shoes such as trainers and flip-flops are some of the most comfortable and practical footwear we can put on, and some versions look really cool as well.

But as with casual and dress shoes, athletic shoes have their time and place in our lives.

Wear trainers only when you're actually training and flip-flops when you're at the beach or pool.

If you find it hard to free yourself of your trusty 'everyday' trainers or airy flip- flops, try canvas sneakers.

They soften the transition, are comfortable, breathe, and look much better. !30 SHIRTS, SWEATERS, AND POLOS

3 Top Garments Men Look Sexy In

Let’s talk about shirts, sweaters, and polos.

While the simple polo is just that, did you know that your shirt and sweater can work for almost any occasion, if you wear them the right way?

In this chapter we’ll take a closer look at each of these garments.

We’ll see how you can wear them …

… and what you should pay attention to when buying them.

4 Ways to Get the Most out of Your Shirts

A shirt shouldn’t be reserved for strictly dressy and business occasions. The classic button-front shirt is versatile and can do so much more than that.

For formal occasions, the natural choice is, of course, a white shirt with a dark suit and coordinating tie. The same goes for business, although here, the shirt doesn’t have to be white, and the tie can be a bit more personalised. !31 By dropping the tie and replacing the suit with a leather jacket and dark jeans, you instantly achieve a rough but refined look, perfect for everyday activities such as dining, watching the game at the pub, or rocking it up at a concert.

For warm evenings or casual daytime activities, you can always roll up your shirtsleeves.

If you’re wearing dress pants or leather shoes, keep the shirt tucked in. This look is perfect for quick lunches or a coffee at the corner café in between meetings.

If the choice of footwear is sneakers (and preferably jeans), leave the sleeves rolled up and untuck your shirt for a casual and friendly look.

Everything You Need to Know Before Buying Your First Shirt

A shirt that buttons up the front looks far classier than a polo or tee, and it's just as easy to wear.

The best shirts are made of cotton, while is a popular material for casual summer shirts, since the latter fibre wicks moisture and feels cooler.

Before you can wear them, cotton shirts might require some , but the effort is well worth it.

See how you can iron shirts for a perfect and professional result in my 'How to Iron Shirts' video on YouTube.

Taking that into consideration:

Shirts are the most versatile top piece you can own. !32 A lot of shirts look the same at first glance, and indeed, most have the same features: a collar, cuffs, and a button placket.

But as you’ll discover now, there’s more to a shirt than what meets the eye.

For everyday shirts, you have several collar options.

A regular collar is most common, but you'll also see button-down and spread versions.

The button-down collar (also known as a soft roll collar) works best for casual occasions and should be kept out of the office. The spread collar (also known as a cutaway collar) is elegant and dressy, but it looks best on oblong, triangular, and oval faces.

If your shirt needs to be a solid all-rounder, you’re best off with a turn-down collar, as this handles dressy, business, and casual situations with .

Make sure the collar isn't too tight or loose, since that’s not only uncomfortable, but unattractive as well (see Page 7 for shirt fit).

Good shirts always have removable collar bones, or tabs, since plastic collar bones can dissolve if left in while your shirt is being dry-cleaned.

Collar bones stiffen up most shirt collars and help them keep their shape. The only exception is the soft collar of a button-down shirt.

When it comes to the front of your shirt, you can choose among a French front, a fly front, or a fused front placket. !33 The fused placket is best for business occasions; the fly front is best with a tux; and the French front is appropriate for both casual and business wear— which is probably why it’s the most popular placket option.

Shirt cuffs also come in different styles, with the most common being the plain cuff and the French cuff.

French cuffs require . Plain cuffs have buttons, which—if the shirt is of high quality—are always made of hard, super-elegant mother-of-pearl.

Take your French-cuffed shirt from formal to casual by switching out gold or silver cufflinks with more subtle silk knots.

Solid-coloured shirts are the most useful.

As I mentioned earlier, white and blue are the basics all guys should own.

However, you'll get even more flexibility by expanding your shirt collection to include black, ivory, and other hues that match your look.

Subtly striped shirts look nice with suits, while plaids, checks, and other patterns are best suited to .

If stripes or other patterns are the choice for your shirt, make sure everything lines up nicely at the seams, as this is a sure sign of good craftsmanship. !34 Wear This Classic, Casual Summer Staple

We men are pretty limited when it comes to suit colours and the range of shirts that go with them.

However, polos open up a whole new world of style options and more room to show some personality.

Just like shirts, polos can be worn with everything from suits to shorts. But unlike shirts, polos should never be worn on dressy occasions where a tie is appropriate.

The button front—of which the bottom button is the only one to button—also makes you look open and confident (read: sexy).

If you're one of those guys who look better in earth tones, here's where you can express yourself. Go for browns, oranges, yellows, and warm greens.

If you prefer cool colours, you can pull off a soft pastel, or a vivid hue like cobalt blue or emerald green that might not work well for a button-front shirt. !35 Not sure what colours to pick? Take my simple colour test to find out (see Page 14).

Want to try something other than solid colours?

Go for horizontal-striped polos. They’re classics that add variety to your outfit.

When you're by the water, pull on a polo with blue and white stripes for a nautical look.

Sweaters for More Than One Occasion

When it comes to sweaters, we basically have casual sweaters and dressy sweaters.

Some sweaters can be worn on both occasions, while others aren’t that versatile.

The and fisherman sweater are good examples of tops that should be worn only on the most casual of occasions.

However:

A decent or crewneck handles both situations with excellence.

Cardigans are essentially sweater jackets.

They should have large, functional buttons, and they're the perfect top layer over all kinds of shirts, alone or under a jacket.

Which material you choose depends on a couple of factors: !36 For casual or summerweight sweaters, cotton is easier to care for and cooler than wool.

For finer sweaters and winter garments, there’s no doubt that wool (especially merino or cashmere) looks better and is warmer than plain cotton.

There's a better alternative still to cardigans and rounded crewnecks. That’s because cardigans require you to wear something underneath, and crewnecks can look a bit too casual.

The option is, of course, the V-neck sweater.

Unlike the round neck of the crewneck, the V-neck dips down to a point.

A V-neck looks super-elegant if you wear it over a shirt, with a tie being optional.

On its own, the V-neck also looks casual enough to be worn with a pair of shorts or jeans, if that’s what the occasion calls for. !37 The 2 Reasons for Tucking In Your Shirt: The Rule of 2

When it comes to when to tuck in your shirt:

I bet most men are looking for a super-simple rule that’s easy to follow and works every time!

To my knowledge, such a thing has never existed …

… until now.

You see, I've developed a process called The Rule of 2.

It'll help you decide whether you should tuck in your shirt or leave it untucked —regardless of what you’re wearing.

Want to know more?

The Rule of 2

The only time it’s appropriate to tuck in a shirt is if you are wearing:

• two or more dress garments or

• two or more layers on you upper body.

That’s how easy it is to remember The Rule of 2.

What do I mean by ‘two or more dress garments’ and ‘two or more layers’?

Let me explain:

Tuck Your Shirt In When You're Wearing Two or More Dress Garments

I’ve divided dress garments into four chunks:

Jackets: all blazers and suit jackets

Shirts: all collared shirts as well as shirts like polo shirts and turtlenecks

Pants: all pants that can be pressed, like chino pants and shorts, and dress pants and shorts

Shoes/boots: all open- and closed-lacing leather shoes, and Chelsea and chukka boots.

Let’s look at an everyday situation to see The Rule of 2 in action. !38 Example 1:

You’re wearing an oxford shirt and dress pants. Should you tuck in your shirt?

Yes, tuck it!

Why?

Because you’re wearing two dress garments.

Tuck Your Shirt In If You’re Wearing Two or More Layers

This includes coats, blazers, suit jackets, cardigans, and all kinds of sweaters.

Tucking the inner layer keeps it from peeking out below the outer layer—a sloppy look at best.

So you should always tuck in your , turtleneck, or button-front shirt whenever you’ve got another layer over it.

Example 2:

You’ve paired a polo with a suit jacket and jeans. Should you tuck in your shirt?

Yes, tuck it again!

Why?

Because you’re wearing two layers on the top half of your body. !39

But wait:

A tee is a layer, right? Shouldn’t you tuck that in, too?

Read on:

Why You Should Never Tuck Your T-Shirts

The Rule of 2 applies strictly to collared shirts.

That’s because ideally, a tee’s hem should just cover your belt buckle.

A shirt of this length is too short to stay tucked in, but also short enough that it won’t look sloppy when untucked.

If the T-shirt's hem reaches below your fly, chances are a tarp would have a better fit.

If your current tees aren’t meeting the belt-buckle standard for length, you can always demote them to loungewear.

Another option is to help a stranger in need by donating your old tees to a local charity and replacing them with new ones that both fit and look better.

Essentially, when it comes to The Rule of 2, remember that you should not give a tuck when it comes to T-shirts.

Do tuck in a polo shirt, however, because it is generally longer than a tee and is regarded as a dress garment because of the collar and button placket. !40 Commit to Your Tuck All Day Long

If you’ve concluded that you should tuck in your shirt, don’t change your mind later.

Some guys start off the day looking classic and polished, but for whatever reason, they later decide to let it all hang out.

This is a huge mistake, as now the shirttails are a wrinkled mess.

Instead, when you want to loosen up a bit, take off your tie, unbutton the top two buttons, and roll up your sleeves.

You’ll look way cooler and sexier if you take this approach!

Read This Before Flipping Your Collar

I bet you’ve seen talking heads, rock stars, and Hollywood celebrities on TV, wearing their shirt or polo collar flipped up.

But is flipping up your collar the right thing to do?

It all depends, and in some cases, it’s the only logical thing to do …

… while in other instances, it just leaves you looking try-hard.

I’ve dedicated the next section to explaining the secret rule that will make sure your collar doesn’t let you down. !41 Get this:

If you're wearing an upturned collar indoors, you're doing it wrong.

An upturned collar on a jacket or coat makes sense if you're outside in the wind, rain, or snow.

If the weather is pleasant enough that you can be out and about in your shirtsleeves, then an upturned collar is unnecessary.

Moreover, if you're indoors, you shouldn't be feeling chilly. If you are, it's time to put on a sweater or jacket, not to let the world know that your shirts are taking Viagra.

Seriously, though, I don't mean to bust your chops if you've been flipping your collar. It's easy to understand why you would.

After all, some guys flaunt this look like it’s the only cool way to wear a shirt. Sadly, they don't know that this is as far from the truth as can be.

This look is also fuelled by influencers in the industry, who encourage you to do so.

Clothing designers and manufacturers have been adding prints and logos to the reverse side of shirt collars.

By adding these details, they're sending the signal that the collar is meant to be flipped.

Here's the bottom line:

Flipping your collar achieves nothing—other than making you look like a victim of the fashion industry.

I don't want you to be swayed by every little trend that comes along. Why not look like a smart man who's educated in classic style instead?

Let the collars of your dress shirts and polo shirts lie flat, as they're meant to. There are other, classier ways to get noticed. !42 PANTS AND SHORTS

Bottoms are fairly basic. You don't need a lot of variety in your trouser wardrobe to look great.

People are far more likely to remember what you're wearing on your upper half than on your lower.

You can easily rotate the same pair of pants several times a week by pairing them with different shirts, sweaters, and jackets, and nobody will be the wiser.

That said:

Make sure your pants are of high quality, well-fitting, and freshly ironed (if they come with a crease). !43 Dress Pants, Almost as Versatile as Jeans

Dress pants, or trousers, come in many different fabrics.

Steer clear of synthetics and go for lightweight wool, as it hardly wrinkles and will serve you well year-round.

Dress pants should always be a neutral colour: navy, grey, black, brown, or tan.

Besides being appropriate for formal occasions, dress pants are, like jeans, great for casual occasions, too.

Unlike with jeans, though, you have a few more options when it comes to shoes.

Besides sneakers, plain-tip open-lacing leather shoes (bluchers), monkstraps, and loafers, you can also wear wingtips (bluchers with full brogueing) and Oxfords with any pair of dress pants. !44 Most men choose flat-front pants for a slim look, but pleats sometimes work to help shorter men appear taller.

On the other hand, cuffs—which are becoming more and more uncommon—are better for taller men, as they visually shorten the legs.

Dress pants typically have three to four pockets: two in the front and one or two in the back.

Front pockets vary in style, and the common rule is that the more vertical the opening, the more formal the look. Back pockets are either open or come with button closures. !45 Chinos: The Smart Choice for Summer Casual Pants

Chinos are cut similarly to dress pants but have a more casual vibe.

The word chino refers to their country of origin: China.

Since they were designed to be worn in the tropics, they're made of a lightweight cotton fabric as opposed to wool.

Unlike khakis, chinos come in a wide variety of vibrant colours and always have a flat front.

They are treated with the same level of respect as jeans, so don’t wear these if jeans would be out of place.

Also, if the shoes are too formal for jeans, like Oxfords and wingtips, you shouldn’t wear them with chinos either.

Originally, chinos had fewer pockets, as these pants were designed to conserve cloth.

That’s all changed, and today, they’re typically designed with three, four, or five pockets.

So, dress pants and chinos are great …

… but it's no secret:

Most men choose jeans as their favourite pants. !46 Get More Value Out of Your Jeans With Dark Colours

Because they come in different shades of indigo blue and different washes, jeans offer a surprising range of options.

Here's the general rule when it comes to jeans colours:

The darker the jeans, the dressier they look.

That means that you can use them for dressy occasions, and that they’ll look good with all your collared shirts and most of your shoes.

If you want to mix it up, black jeans are a fresh alternative to dark blue, and they give a sophisticated look.

Steer clear of jeans with holes, whiskering, and other pre-worn details.

If a rough look is what you’re going for, you’ll achieve that with your open button-front shirt and leather jacket.

White jeans are trickier to pull off, but they can look great in the summer— especially near the water, paired with a pastel-coloured shirt or polo.

For most men—me included—dark jeans are the perfect day-to-day pants.

You can dress them up with black open-lacing leather shoes, or down with loafers or sneakers.

Jeans look good with everything from shirts and ties to polos and casual leather jackets. !47

When jeans are dark, you can in many cases substitute them for dress pants, which is great, considering jeans are a lot easier to get a hold of and easier to take care for.

Getting the right fit is just as important with jeans as with any other pants, especially when it comes to the length.

Even though you can find sewn cuffs on some dress pants, don’t think this is an option for jeans.

Cuffs will only make you look shorter. Worse, you'll appear as if you bought your jeans too long and now can’t afford the $5 tailor's fee to hem them correctly.

When it comes to pockets, the five-pocket jean is the traditional style, introduced by Levi’s in 1905 on their 501 model.

It’s now the standard for all : two patch pockets in the back, two slash pockets in the front, and a watch pocket on the right side in front.

How to Relax in Shorts the Right Way

They're the ultimate summer garment, and they basically say:

'Freedom!'

But it’s freedom with a price.

You see, shorts have their place—as you’ll quickly find out if you try to enter your local country club, established restaurant, or high-end store in a pair. !48 No matter how good of a customer you are, you shouldn’t be surprised if the staff advises you to switch from shorts to pants before entering.

The golden rule of shorts is to wear them in only the most casual of circumstances, and the closer to your home you are, the safer you are.

Here are a few examples, off the top of my head, of when I would wear shorts:

• Mowing grass on a hot summer day

• Having a garden BBQ

• On holiday in Jamaica Also, no matter what the case, you should always switch to pants by evening.

That said, you'll still want a few pairs of shorts in your wardrobe.

The most classic styles are trouser shorts, cargo shorts, and .

Trousers shorts look just like short chinos. They're the most refined-looking shorts you can buy.

And, like chinos, cotton trouser shorts come in a great range of fun colours.

Wear trouser shorts with a collared shirt, roll up the sleeves, and add boat shoes or sneakers.

If you want to go a bit more practical or casual, try cotton cargo shorts in a neutral tone such as tan or grey.

These are great with polos and sneakers.

Of course, you'll also need swim trunks.

I don’t feel I should have to say this, but skip the Speedo; it has nothing to do with style.

The best look for the beach or pool is always loose-fitting trunks or board shorts in a quick-dry synthetic material.

Not surprisingly, women will find you 10 times sexier when you drop the Speedos (both literally and figuratively!).

For your swim trunks, you can have a little fun with colour and pattern, but remember that light colours look best in the sun. !49 The Basics of Belts, Easily Explained

Belts are the classic and accepted way of keeping your trousers up and your style pristine.

But how do you know which belt looks best with your outfit?

I'm going to share my simple secret for picking the perfect belt every time.

Use My 3-Step Process to Match Your Belt Like a Pro

My secret technique for picking belts can be summed up like this:

1. After you’ve chosen you outfit and shoes, coordinate the style of your belt with your pants.

Wear narrow belts with dark jeans, chinos, and dress pants, and wide belts with everything else.

2. Next, match the colour of the belt to the colour of the shoes.

Pair black with black, brown with brown, blue with blue, etc. !50 3. Finally, match the material of the belt with the material of the shoes.

In other words, wear leather with leather, suede with suede, and canvas with canvas.

The steps above are also listed in order of importance.

So, if you have a limited number of belts, it's more important to match the colour than the material.

Likewise, it’s more important to get the belt style right (narrow vs wide) than to match the material.

For example, I'd rather wear a black narrow leather belt with canvas sneakers and dress pants, than a black wide canvas belt with the same outfit. !51 The 2 Belts All Men Must Have

A great way to ensure that you always have the perfect belt on hand is to buy a new belt whenever you buy a distinctive pair of shoes.

However, if you already have a belt at home to match your new footwear, this won’t be necessary.

If you’re new to belts and wonder where to start, here are the two belts you should buy first, in order of importance:

1. A narrow belt in black leather, to wear with all pants (until you buy belt #2).

2. A narrow canvas belt that matches the colour of your favourite sneakers (now reserving the narrow belt for your black leather shoes and boots).

Get Your Belt Length Right

Remember:

Just like leather shoes, new leather belts will eventually stretch quite a bit.

It's important to keep this in mind if you're deciding between two sizes, because it's almost always better to choose the smaller belt.

My personal rule is to choose a belt that’s no more than 2 inches longer than the waist measurement of my pants.

That way, the belt will fit even after its initial stretching, and I won’t have to deal with a long belt tail, which is a hassle to deal with and looks ridiculous. !52 UNDERWEAR

Assume That Your Underwear Will Be Seen

Putting on underwear seems easy enough.

But if you want to be well-dressed from the inside out, there's more to choosing underwear than throwing on whatever's clean.

In this chapter, I'm going to show you how to look sharp and sexy, whether you're fully dressed or at that exciting halfway point!

Why Are for Shirts and T-shirts Are for Jackets

Undershirts mainly come in three different varieties: sleeveless, long-sleeved, and T-shirts.

T-shirts are probably the type of you know best, and for these, we distinguish between crewnecks and V-necks.

A T-shirt is great for casual occasions when wearing a sweater or jacket, such as a cardigan or a leather jacket.

Which neck option you go for depends on personal preference, but V-necks are more elegant and look better under your leather jacket or cardigan than the more casual crewneck.

For sleeveless and long-sleeved undershirts, a crewneck is usually the only option. !53 Sleeveless and long-sleeved undershirts are what you'd wear under a collared shirt, and the dip of the neckline dictates if you can unbutton your collar or not, since your undershirt should never show.

All undershirts act as a protective layer, absorbing perspiration in addition to preventing nipples, tattoos, and hair from showing through thinner shirts.

The sleeveless undershirt is a year-round classic; however, feel free to resort to a long-sleeved undershirt on nippy winter days.

Are You More a or Boxer Brief Man?

Like undershirts, underwear comes in three basic styles: boxer shorts, , and .

Your preference depends on both your preferred packaging method and your lifestyle in general.

Some underwear has a close fit, such as boxer briefs and briefs, while boxer shorts are looser and less revealing.

Consequently, boxer shorts are perfect for modest guys and for wearing in mixed company.

Boxer briefs and briefs—which leave less to the imagination—have benefits that boxer shorts miss, such as better support during activity …

… and a snugger fit, which makes them better-suited for your slim-cut dress pants and chinos. !54 When it comes to underwear colour, the cheapest, easiest-to-get-hold-of, easiest-to-care-for alternative is white. (It's also sexy as hell.)

That’s why, if it’s up to me, I always choose white boxer briefs.

The Only 3 Types of You’ll Ever Need

Luckily, shopping is a piece of cake.

You only need three kinds of socks: crew or dress socks, liner socks, and athletic socks.

Crew socks are the most versatile socks you'll own.

They can be worn with everything from a suit and Oxfords to jeans and canvas sneakers.

For shorts, the sockless look is a must, and for that, liner socks are the obvious option.

These low-cut socks—unlike ankle socks—won't show over the tops of your boat shoes or sneakers.

However, they will protect your feet and keep sweat from ruining your footwear.

For sports, athletic socks with thicker cotton provide cushioning.

These socks usually come with a rib-knit cuff—which is best reserved for casual socks like these—and should only be worn with trainers. !55 This Is How Easy It Is to Pick the Right Sock Colour

Fashion websites and TV shows about what to wear have led us to believe that in order to look good, our socks needs to be ridiculously intricate with patterns and colours.

That’s simply not true.

The best-dressed men I know adhere to this simple rule on sock colour:

They only wear socks that match their trousers.

So, you can quickly see that the most useful sock colour would be black or navy blue, since most of your trousers will be dark, like your navy blue dress pants and dark jeans.

Personally, I prefer black socks over navy blue, simply because they are the most affordable, and I don’t know of one single store that doesn’t sell them …

… which means that I can spend my time shopping for things other than socks.

I also own about five pairs of grey socks, which I naturally wear with my grey dress pants.

And if I should happen to acquire any other coloured trousers, I simply make sure to buy a matching pair of socks with them. !56 JACKETS AND COATS

The Essential Outerwear

There are a million jackets and coats out there. How do you pick?

If you choose wisely, you can make an impact with just a few simple items.

Here's the best part (and this applies to all clothing):

When you have fewer pieces, you can buy the jackets others can’t afford.

From Bush to Bars With These 3 Jackets

The Barbour jacket is your best choice for casual wear and mild weather.

This rainproof jacket is exclusive without being particularly expensive, considering its roots. At one point or another, every single member of the British Royal Family has been photographed wearing it.

Its waxed fabric, roomy pockets, and high-quality closures will serve you well for years.

Throw on a Barbour over your jeans or chinos, and you'll instantly be recognised as classic and classy.

Another short outerwear option is a genuine Husky jacket.

This quilted jacket looks sharp and offers protection from the elements.

This should be worn in the same circumstances as a Barbour jacket, although preferably not in the rain.

Typical features of this machine-washable jacket are a cord-lined collar; side vents, which provide easier access to your trouser pockets; and a pale-green or blue colour.

Both of the previous jackets originated as hunting garments and are, therefore, best worn during day.

Are you looking for a more urban look that you can wear to a bar or on a date?

Then turn to a leather jacket.

Throw one on, and you'll instantly look cool and laid-back.

A good leather jacket will last for years with proper care and can take you from casual days to date nights. !57 There are several classic leather jacket styles, such as the moto and A2.

However, the racing jacket is my personal favourite.

Because I think it's the best way to get a modern look that's classic at the same time.

Buying a leather jacket doesn’t have to set you back $1,000 either.

Many less expensive alternatives offer an even better value. But there are a couple of features of a good leather jacket that you need to be aware of.

First off, the material needs to be 100% leather; nothing else will do. As for the lining, cotton or silk should be the material of choice; however, I have resorted to polyester when nothing else can be found.

Black leather always looks more polished—and more youthful—than brown, and the former looks better at night.

Black is also an ideal colour for your outer layer, since that—as we learned in the colour chapter (see Page 17)—should always be the darkest layer.

Recently, there have been a lot of jackets with rib-knit collars, cuffs, and waistbands on the market. These details make a leather jacket look too sporty and should be avoided.

Buckles or press-studs at the waist are a much better alternative, as they look better and let you adjust your jacket's fit.

Zipper sleeves are also a better alternative than knit cuffs. !58 A front zipper is the only closure choice for these jackets (remember: it’s not a blazer).

For the pockets, zippers are also the most common choice, although breast pockets may come with flap closures and press-studs.

And finally, the jacket shouldn’t have a collar, or at least no more than a short stand-up collar.

As far as fit goes, check out Chapter 1. !59 !60 The Perks and Pros of Classic Coats

If you’re only going to buy one , make it a classic Chesterfield.

This is a coat you typically wear with leather shoes or boots, and dark jeans or dress pants.

Adding accessories such as gloves that match your shoes, and the right for the occasion, will make you look even better.

The coat should be made of wool, because it’s warm and a time-tested winner. If you’re allergic or fancy something a bit more exclusive, cashmere and alpaca are good alternatives.

Regardless of your choice of material, make sure it's in a dark, neutral colour, because that will blend with most of your existing outfits.

You'll find single- and double-breasted styles, but the single-breasted version is a more timeless look.

To keep your hands warm, all good coats have side pockets.

Pocket flaps are a great detail that makes the pockets look more stylish while at the same time keeping out rain and snow.

A breast pocket is optional.

When you go shopping for outerwear, be sure to wear a suit jacket or blazer, and keep it on while trying on coats. That's because your coat should fit comfortably over your thickest inner layers. !61 This is how you know when you've found the right coat:

You'll come up with lots of excuses for wearing it every day.

Even though—in my mind—a Chesterfield is close to perfect …

… we need to remember that good style is recognised by our ability to adjust to the situation.

That’s why, if you live in a very cold, windy, or wet environment, the Chesterfield might not be enough; you'll probably want a functional coat for casual occasions as well.

For that, you have the .

The duffel coat is basically a toggle-closure coat with a , and—unlike an anorak or a , which are sporty garments—it's the only truly classic hooded coat.

It’s usually made of wool, and the hood makes unnecessary if it isn’t too cold out.

The duffel works best with casual attire, so save it for low-key evenings and weekends when you're wearing jeans and boots.

While I'm on the subject of coats:

There’s one type I need to warn you about …

… which is the .

Unfortunately, these classic coats have gained a reputation for being the outerwear of choice of sinister characters.

A trench coat is dressier than a duffel coat and great for rain, but these days, trench coats really only work for women—which gives us men yet another excuse to wear our Chesterfields.

However, that’s bad news if it's pouring outside.

So if you’re worried about getting wet in your wool coat or leather jacket, remember:

An is the perfect accessory for any outfit—as long as it’s black and logo-free, and has a bent handle so you can hang it over arm when you need your hands free.

Also …

… on a rainy evening, an umbrella has the advantage of being able to keep both you and your date dry. !62 SUITS AND TIES

Every Well-Dressed Man’s Best Friend

I used to dread suits.

And it's no wonder …

… since the only time I wore them was to weddings, funerals, and other awkward ceremonies.

That has all changed.

Today, I think of the suit as versatile garment, and I no longer reserve this attire for 'special' occasions.

In fact, when done right, a suit is something you can easily wear to a luncheon or a party.

In this chapter, you’ll learn everything there is to know about how to buy a good suit, and how to wear it on all your life’s different occasions. !63 The Classic Suit: 101

As we learned in the chapter on colours, clothes with the right hue can enhance your look and boost your sex appeal.

However, when it comes to your first two suits, let these matters be up to the shirt and tie you’re wearing, and instead focus on basic suit colours that are versatile and classic.

So before you let your tailor talk you into buying seersucker, know that navy blue and grey make up the ultimate foundation of any suit wardrobe.

Like grey, navy blue is regarded as a neutral, which is why it works effortlessly with basically any other hue.

This dark colour also handles both dressy and casual occasions with ease. Try on different patterns, such as pinstripes and windowpane, but keep in mind that a solid colour is the least conspicuous.

Right up there with navy blue, grey has also carved its place as a true classic.

A pair of brown shoes and a matching leather belt looks exceptionally good with this suit colour, but you’ll do no wrong mixing up your look with a pair of black bluchers, either. !64 When it comes to possible patterns for your grey suit, you have a bit more to choose from than for your navy blue one, like these options:

• Nailhead

• Pinstripes

• Windowpane

• Herringbone

• Prince of Wales However, solid grey and herringbone—the latter of which is a nuance between a solid and the Prince of Wales—will let you get the most out of your grey suit.

Fortunately, the colour and pattern you choose for your suit don’t affect the range of fabrics you can choose from, as all common materials such as polyester, cotton, wool, cashmere, and silk can be dyed any required colour.

With that said, it doesn’t really matter, as neither polyester nor cotton can match up to a 100% wool suit.

The only thing polyester’s got going for it when it comes to suits is that it’s cheap and … well, that’s it.

Polyester doesn’t drape nicely, feels stiff, and, unlike a mid-weight wool suit, will kill you in the summer because it doesn’t breathe—at all.

Cotton, on the other hand, would be a good candidate if not for the fact that it wrinkles very easily—much like linen—and lacks the deep lustre of wool. !65 So if you want a suit that can be worn year-round, looks good, and hardly needs to be ironed, go for a mid-weight wool suit.

Whether you buy a suit with or without a vest is up to you.

A vest was once a means of keeping warm in poorly heated office buildings and on cold morning commutes.

As climate-controlled work environments and better commuting options have become the standard, the practical value of a vest is almost gone.

Waistcoat vs vest: what’s the difference?

There is some dispute about which word to use, but the words and vest are pretty much interchangeable.

Today, unless you’re attending a wedding or funeral, a fine wool sweater is a good alternative to a vest and will keep you just as warm or warmer.

One, two, or three buttons; single-breasted or double-breasted—what jacket style should you choose?

Again, it’s about personal preference, but a double-breasted suit shouldn't be the choice of shorter or heavier men.

Also, a double-breasted suit jacket should never be worn unbuttoned, which makes it kind of a hassle to wear.

The single-breasted suit is, therefore, a much better alternative—especially for your first two suits, which will get quite a lot of mileage during their lifetime.

The number of buttons you choose depends on what you think looks good, and also on your height.

So for example:

If you’re vertically challenged, you’re probably better off with a two- or three- button suit jacket—with the waist button positioned above your navel—as this makes you look taller.

If you’re comfortable with your height and would like to look extra-sharp, a one-button suit is just the thing.

Regardless of how many buttons you choose for your suit, here’s the formal and business etiquette for how to button them:

• One-button suit: always keep it buttoned.

• Two-button suit: always keep the waist button buttoned, while the lower button should never be used.

• Three-button suit: always keep the waist button buttoned; the top button is optional, while the lower button should, again, never be used. !66

The last detail I ought to mention while we’re on the subject of suits is the vents.

Vents make the jacket hang better when you have your hands in your trouser pockets.

Single-breasted suits come with either a single centre vent or two side vents, the latter being the most common.

For double-breasted suits, two side vents are mandatory.

The only exception to this is in Germany, where keeping your hands in your trouser pockets is regarded as bad manners. Consequently, German suit jackets don’t need vents and are, therefore, usually constructed without this detail. !67 How to Get Every Detail of Your Tie Right

If you want a tie that’s easy to tie, drapes elegantly, and looks great, you’re best off with one made of pure silk.

But here's a trick:

Most people can't tell the difference between a pure silk tie and one made of synthetic silk, just by a glance.

The good news is that synthetics are less expensive and easier to care for. They're a great way to expand your tie wardrobe and add variety to your look.

Knit ties are an alternative; however, they're an acquired taste that might get you some skewered looks from passers-by.

How you tie your tie shouldn’t be left to chance.

A tie knot that’s too big or too small for your shirt collar is no good.

The four-in-hand knot is slightly asymmetrical, and for that reason, it looks more interesting than a symmetrical knot such as the Windsor knot.

If you prefer to wear shirts with regular turn-down and button-down collars, the four-in-hand knot is the only one you’ll need to learn, as it's the one that looks best with these collar styles.

If your face shape dictates that you're better off with a spread collar (see Page 31), then you might go for a Windsor knot, as this is the only collar this knot works with. !68 With that said …

… in most cases, a properly tied four-in-hand knot will look better, even on a spread collar. 69 !70 Tie Colours and Patterns

Here's the #1 thing to remember when buying a tie:

Contrast.

The monochromatic look (matching shirt and tie) is more of a fashion statement than a classic choice.

So wear a dark tie with a light shirt, and vice versa.

That’s why every man should own a solid navy tie.

Navy works with both your navy suit and your grey one, and it will contrast with the lighter shirts you already own.

Other good solids include charcoal, taupe, and red.

You can also look for stripes, tiny polka dots, or other subtle patterns, such as paisley, foulard, or fleur-de-lis.

Don't be afraid to add some personality with a hue like turquoise or yellow. Just make sure you don't do anything cartoonish.

Tie Widths and Lengths

The main thing to consider when you pick out ties is your build.

If you're big and tall, a skinny tie is going to make you look even bigger—and the tie will look even wimpier.

If you're on the slight side, the effect will be the complete opposite. !71 Since a tie can last a lifetime, make sure to find one that complements your figure and face, whether it’s wide, narrow, or regular width.

The length is another aspect to consider.

A tie should extend to the middle of your belt buckle and stop no lower or higher.

For vertically challenged men, this can be a problem, and some solve it by tucking the tip of the tie into their pants.

A better solution—once offered to me by a good friend—is this:

If your tie is too long, let the tail of the tie hang lower, and tuck that into your pants instead. !72 ACCESSORIES

It’s No Secret That Accessories Are, First and Foremost, About Comfort and Functionality.

The correct accessory for the occasion will let everyone around know that you’re to be taken seriously …

. . . and you’ll find it much easier to earn others' respect and good word.

There are a couple of back-of-your hand rules and guidelines worth knowing if you’re to master accessories.

On the following pages, you’ll learn what they are and which accessory you should and can use to look your best. From Cold to Warm and Dressy to Casual With

Chapters have been written up and down about .

To be frank, the only two items you need to know about right now are the knit beanie and the .

Both of these hats are practical and, if done right, stylish.

The beanie will keep you warm, and it can be worn with casual as well as dress attire. !73 Make sure it doesn’t droop down onto your neck or over your eyebrows. Also, choose one without ornaments, and make sure it doesn’t peak at the top of your head.

Unlike knit caps, baseball caps should only be worn with casual outfits and are preferably worn to the park, the beach, or your home team's big game.

If you’re looking for an all-around baseball cap, my advice would be to choose a dark colour, such as blue or black, and keep it clean. !74 Keep Your Hands out of Your Pockets and Warm With Gloves

Gloves also have their function and place.

The most common types are leather and lambskin gloves.

Plain unlined or lined leather gloves are thinner, while lambskin or sheepskin gloves are thicker and wool-insulated.

Sheepskin gloves are best worn with casual outfits, while leather gloves looks best with dressy attire.

Regardless of which type your wear, always try to colour-coordinate the gloves with your footwear.

If you wear a pair of black leather gloves without your jacket or coat on, you’ll look more like a master thief on duty than a style-conscious man battling cold hands.

To avoid this, just remember:

Leaving your jacket or coat at home whenever you’re wearing a pair of gloves is not an option. !75 Use Scarves for Style and Comfort

When it's cold or rainy outside, and you’re all buttoned up in your or Barbour jacket, often the only visible item that allows you to reveal your personal style is your scarf.

On formal occasions, always keep you scarf low key.

However, do remember that …

… a scarf's purpose is not limited to keeping you warm; it also a great tool you can use to break the monotone look of the average autumn or winter outfit.

Whether it’s a hand-knitted wool scarf or a lighter cotton scarf, if you aren’t attending a wedding or a funeral, choose a scarf with patterns or colours that make you look good (see Page 14 on how to do this).

Another effect you can create is to break up the formality (or casualness) of your outfit with a contrasting scarf.

For example, wear a hand-knitted scarf with your suit and Chesterfield coat, or a cashmere scarf with your leather jacket.

Either way, you’re telling the world that style isn’t everything, but you’re not one to be taken lightly either. !76 Why Your Only Watch Shouldn’t Be Your Smartphone

Watches are one of the few items of that are generally acceptable for a man to wear—the others being a wedding ring, a (worn under the collar), cufflinks, and a tie clip.

As you can see, we men do not have a lot of places to take up the slack that any subpar piece of jewellery, like a cheap watch, may cause, so we better make the watch count.

I’m not saying you should spend $13,000 on a Rolex.

What I’m saying is that you should wear (or at least start with) a classic watch that you can wear with both your suit and more casual apparel.

The good news is that these days, a high-quality watch doesn’t have to set you back more than $300 to $400—a steal compared to the Rolex!

This is how you pick your perfect watch:

There are basically two every man should own during his life. One is a classic leather-strap watch, and the other is a steel bracelet watch.

The leather watch looks really good with a suit and—if you’re working at a desk — doesn’t make as much noise when it comes in contact with the surface as the steel would.

On the other hand, a leather strap is quite delicate. !77 So if your daily activity involves more than typing away on a keyboard, you’d probably be better off with the steel bracelet, as it’s much more robust and handles water, soap, and sweat with ease.

Regardless of which watch you choose, the fewer functions it has, the better it will look with a suit and the more versatile it will be.

Personally, I find a regular dial with a second hand, plus a calendar function, to be more than sufficient.

Also, even if you don’t tend to wear your watch for yard work or DIY projects, invest in a model with sapphire crystal watch glass.

Unlike ordinary glass, sapphire crystal is extremely resilient against scratches and ensures that your watch looks new for years.

Use a $0.99 Cufflink to Get an Everyday Shirt

Cufflinks are elegant and classy, but many men find them too formal.

Buying a couple pairs might seem like a poor investment, especially when we consider that you also have to buy a separate shirt (with French cuffs) that can only be worn to these formal occasions as well.

Fortunately—as I briefly mentioned in the chapter about shirts—you can wear cufflinks every day without looking like the Monopoly guy.

Here’s the trick: !78 Instead of wearing your fine gold or silver T-back cufflinks, simply invest in a half dozen or so silk-knot cufflinks.

These can be bought for a little as $1 online, which means that you can buy different ones and colour coordinate them with your tie or shirt.

Silk knots are also subtle enough that you can wear them every day, which means that you now can incorporate your formal shirt into your everyday shirt rotation.