This multi-coloured Ocellated Turkey was the of the tour (Mark Van Beirs)

THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO

24 FEBRUARY – 6 MARCH 2016

LEADER: MARK VAN BEIRS

A totally crazy, thoroughly unafraid male Ocellated Turkey, brimming with testosterone, was the undisputed bird of the tour. This spectacular is easily seen along the entrance road to the magnificent archaeological site of Calakmul, but this year’s performance was really out of this world. The agressive male attacked us repeatedly and hit your leader on several occasions with his strong wings, luckily not with his dangerous looking spurs! He also demonstrated his extravagant display and stunning plumage at point blank range and made us flee a few times into the minibus. Other highlights included Thicket Tinamou (for some), Great Curassow, Yucatan Bobwhite, American Flamingo, Boat-billed Heron, American White Pelican, dainty Ruddy Crakes, Clapper Rail, Kelp Gull, a tame Parasitic Jaeger (Arctic Skua), White-crowned Pigeon, a very well-behaved Middle American Screech Owl, Northern Potoo, a dazzlingly displaying male Mexican Sheartail, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Yucatan Woodpecker, Pale-billed Woodpecker, Mayan Antthrush, Black Catbird, Western Spindalis, Rose-throated Tanager, Grey-throated Chat and Blue Bunting. We found a couple of raiding ant swarms with beautifully showing Tawny-winged, Ruddy and Northern Barred Woodcreepers, Yucatan Jays, Yellow-billed Cacique, Green-backed Sparrows, Red-throated Ant Tanagers

1 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com and Grey-headed Tanagers. A good selection of wintering North American included crackers like Worm-eating, Blue-winged, Hooded, Black-throated Blue and Yellow-throated Warblers and Indigo and Painted Buntings. Mammals usually don’t feature too highly on Mexico tours, but we did manage to collect a nice selection, including Tayra, White-nosed Coati, Cozumel Raccoon, Central American Spider Monkey and Yucatan Black Howler Monkey. The spectacle of hundreds of thousands of bats darkening the sky near our Calakmul hotel was a sight to behold. Sadly, the weather didn’t cooperate at all as we experienced a cold front and rain during a good part of the tour resulting in less responsive birds, fewer birds of prey and no concentrations of waterbirds or waders.

Blue-grey Gnatcatcher and Black Catbird showed well in the Cozumel woodlands (Mark Van Beirs)

Cancun is situated on the northeastern side of the Yucatan peninsula. It is a well-known, major holiday destination and the adjoining coast harbours dozens and dozens of beach resorts, condominiums, mega hotels and holiday and amusement parks. But we didn’t come to Cancun for the sun or the beaches, so we soon left the hussle and bussle and drove to the nearby carferry terminal to catch the ferry to the island of Cozumel, where several endemic birds were waiting for us. As a pretty bad storm had come through overnight the scheduled trips of the past 18 hours had been cancelled, so scores of trucks were waiting to get across. We were told we had very little chance to get to Cozumel before the end of the day, so we changed our plans, left our minibus on the mainland and took the passenger ferry from famous Playa del Carmen to the ‘Island of the Swallows’ (the meaning of its Mayan name Cuzamil). While waiting for the ferry we admired several Brown Pelicans, some Ruddy Turnstones, a Sanderling, Laughing Gulls, Royal Terns, Ruddy Ground Doves, lots of Great-tailed Grackles and a smart Yellow-throated Warbler. After checking in at our waterfront hotel, we picked up a new vehicle, enjoyed an early lunch and explored a wide track through the dense, low stature woodland that is so typical of the Yucatan. Activity was quite low in the heat

2 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com of the day, but we did pick up our first specialities in the forms of Cozumel Emerald (male and female), Black Catbird and Cozumel Vireo next to more widespread species like White-winged Dove, Blue-grey Gnatcatcher, Tropical Mockingbird, American Yellow Warbler, Myrtle Warbler, an uncommon female Black- throated Blue Warbler and Bananaquit (the near-endemic race caboti). Another track which skirted a cattail marsh gave us a lovely Least Grebe, a heard only Ruddy Crake, Belted Kingfisher, Mangrove Warbler and a cracking Cozumel Raccoon. In late afternoon we positioned ourselves at an open area where we added a smart White-crowned Pigeon, Vaux’s Swift, Yucatan Amazon, Yucatan Woodpecker (brilliant views), Grey Catbird, Grey-crowned Yellowthroat, American Redstart, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Blue Grosbeak and Indigo Bunting to the list.

White-crowned Pigeon and Yucatan Woodpecker allowed excellent views (Mark Van Beirs)

Next morning we birded the thorny woodland on the leeward side of the island, as a pretty strong wind was blowing. We heard Caribbean Dove cooing away in the understorey and a white morph Reddish Egret flew past, but little else was moving. We retreated further inland where the wind was less of a problem, but activity was still low. We scoped a singing Rufous-browed Peppershrike (endemic Cozumel race insularis) and had nice looks at Yucatan Vireo, Black-and-white Warbler, Magnolia Warbler and a pair of Hooded Orioles of the bright orange race igneus. We heard the distinctive call of Cozumel Wren, but we couldn’t elicit any reaction. After a short break in the middle of the day we visited a wide track in the middle of the island where we finally found a pair of attractive Western Spindalis together with a very tame male Black-throated Green Warbler. On our drive around the island we stopped at a marshy lagoon which gave us Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Blue-winged Teal, Pied-billed Grebe, Little Blue Heron, Northern Jacana and singles of Tree, Barn and Cave Swallows. In late afternoon we observed the comings and goings at an open area where we heard Limpkin and observed Common Ground Dove, Green-breasted Mango (male and female), Summer Tanager, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, Indigo Bunting (a young male and several females) and two cracking male Painted Buntings. A cattail marsh produced excellent views of no fewer than four adorable Ruddy Crakes, a rare Philadelphia Vireo and a flyby Least Bittern. At dusk a Pauraque started calling and soon flew

3 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com about and not much later we had nice looks at a Northern Potoo and heard Yucatan in the far distance.

Grey-crowned Yellowthroat and Grey Catbird were skulking in undergrowth (Mark Van Beirs)

Early next morning found us along our favourite track waiting for things to happen and finally we connected with the sneaky Caribbean Dove. The Cozumel Wren sadly remained strangely elusive. A Collared Peccary showed all too briefly and then it was time to pack up and return to the mainland. We drove west and north to the little seaside town of Rio Lagartos where we enjoyed a very birdy end of the day. The waterfront just at our hotel produced a splendid selection of waterbirds. A lovely group of American Flamingos were feeding in the shallows and a sandbank held scores of Brown and American White Pelicans. Laughing Gulls were dominating the scene and Black Skimmers, Caspian and Royal Terns foraged over the estuary. Other interesting species included American White Ibis, Tricoloured Heron, Little Blue Heron (including some confusing immature birds), Snowy Egret, Magnificent Frigatebird, Double-crested Cormorant, Lesser Yellow- headed Vulture, Western Osprey, Willet and Peregrine (race tundrius). A short visit to a marshy area nearby gave us a different set of species. We could discern quite a few Boat-billed Herons roosting or breeding in an isolated copse, so we obtained brilliant scope views of these intriguing birds. A cracking Sora behaved impeccably, as did a pair of Orange Orioles. Other birds noted here included Killdeer, Wilson’s Snipe, Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Solitary Sandpiper, Groove-billed Ani, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Northern Crested Caracara, Laughing Falcon, Olive-throated Parakeet, Vermilion Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Northern Waterthrush, Common Yellowthroat, Orchard Oriole and Red-winged Blackbird.

A male Magnificent Frigatebird and Royal Tern frequented the Rio Lagartos waterfront (Mark Van Beirs)

Just when the sun was wrestling with the horizon, we had positioned ourselves in a nice open area amongst scrubby bushes near the village of Rio Lagartos. A male Yucatan Bobwhite sat up uttering its distinctive call

4 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com and allowed itself to be scoped for brilliant looks. A pair of dazzling Vermilion Flycatchers kept us company and a Yucatan Wren showed all too briefly on top of a bush. Another scrubby area gave us a pair of fabulous Mexican Sheartails, the male of which performed some remarkable aerobatics by shooting very high up into the air, while showing off his glittering rose-pink gorget. A pair of Northern Cardinals vied for attention, a Couch’s Kingbird allowed detailed scrutiny and we also noted Green and Great Blue Herons, Lesser Yellow- headed Vulture, Least and Spotted Sandpipers, Canivet’s Emerald, Cinnamon Hummingbird, White-fronted Amazon, Least Flycatcher, Mangrove Vireo, Sand and Purple Martins, Grey-crowned Yellowthroat, Bronzed Cowbird, Blue-black Grassquit and a White-nosed Coati. Wood Stork, Yellow-crowned Night Heron and Cabot’s Tern showed along the waterfront. After lunch we explored the famous salinas (saltpans), but found them quite disappointing compared to previous visits, possibly due to the abundant rainfall Yucatan had experienced recently. Only a few waders and waterbirds were about. Best of all was a Lesser Black-backed Gull (a visitor from the Old World) and we also found small numbers of Grey and Semipalmated Plovers, Semipalmated and Western Sandpipers, Common and Forster’s Terns and several Mangrove Swallows. Afterwards we birded a quiet side road through scrubby fields and added Northern Parula, Altamira Oriole and White-collared Seedeater to the list.

The display of the male Mexican Sheartail was truly impressive; this Sora walked out in the open (Mark Van Beirs)

Before dawn we were observing Jupiter and four of its moons through the telescope along a quiet track. Not much later the calls or songs of Plain Chachalaca, Yucatan Bobwhite and Tropical Mockingbird heralded the start of a sunny day. We obtained great looks again at Mexican Sheartail and a pair of unusually secretive Yucatan Wrens. A feisty, very showy Ferruginous Pygmy Owl was harassed by Canivet’s Emeralds, Cinnamon and Ruby-throated Hummingbirds, Mangrove Vireos and dazzling Painted Buntings. A couple of Red-billed Pigeons were enjoying the sun in a treetop and a Ladder-backed Woodpecker gave excellent looks. The scope views of a perched female Merlin were much appreciated and scores of Indigo Buntings were flushed from the side of the track. A lagoon gave us two very smart Roseate Spoonbills in breeding plumage. We found a furtive Zenaida Dove near the beach and in the salinas we added Black-necked Stilt and Snowy and Wilson’s Plovers to the tally. The afternoon boat trip on the lagoon and into the mangroves was a lovely and much enjoyed experience. We managed to get close up to a group of dramatically red American Flamingos and saw a good selection of herons. A sand bank held a large flock of roosting American White Pelicans together with a nice group of Black Skimmers and Gull-billed and Forster’s Terns. Nearby we found a party of Short-billed Dowitchers and several flocks of Neotropic and Double-crested Cormorants. A tame Parasitic Jaeger (Arctic Skua) could be admired at very close range and was a new bird for this tour. A couple of Kelp Gulls held watch over a muddy stretch and could be compared with a Lesser Black-backed Gull. Other goodies included Anhinga, Western Osprey (regular sightings), Common Black

5 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com Hawk, Clapper Rail, Whimbrel, Willet, Mangrove Cuckoo and a Morelet’s Crocodile. Our boat trip finished just as the sun was disappearing behind the western horizon.

American Flamingos and American White Pelicans were plentiful at Rio Lagartos (Mark Van Beirs)

Our morning visit to the marvellous archaeological site of Chichén Itzá was quite enjoyable. We strolled amongst the different Mayan structures, admired the large pyramid of El Castillo, observed the Great Ball Court and the Temple of the Warriors and added a handful of birds to the list. The large number of tourists spoiled our visit a bit, but there was nothing we could do about that. A beautiful Turquoise-browed Motmot really showed well and we found Squirrel Cuckoo, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, lots of Velasquez’s Woodpeckers, Yucatan Amazon, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Masked Tityra, White-eyed and Yellow-throated Vireos, a gorgeous Green Jay, Scrub Euphonia, Tennessee Warbler, Melodious Blackbird and Black-headed Saltator in the scrubby woodland surrounding the site. In the afternoon we drove south to the town of Felipe Carillo Puerto and after checking in into our hotel, we explored the entrance track of the famous Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. A Swallow-tailed Kite was an unexpected bonus and we scoped a cracking White- fronted Amazon. A party of vocal Brown Jays, a male Black-headed Trogon and a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird also showed. Just at dusk we heard Thicket Tinamou and Collared Forest Falcon.

A cute Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and vociferous Brown Jays were easy to see at Sian Ka’an (Mark Van Beirs)

6 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com At dawn we were overlooking a large clearing in the middle of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. We finally managed to scope several Plain Chachalacas and also observed Grey Hawk, Scaled Pigeon, Keel-billed Toucan, Rose-throated Becard, Spot-breasted Wren, Yellow-backed and Black-cowled Orioles, Green- backed Sparrow, Red-legged Honeycreeper and a gorgeous male Blue Bunting. A hunting Ferruginous Pygmy Owl was being mobbed by White-bellied Emerald, Wedge-tailed Sabrewing and Buff-bellied Hummingbird. As the temperature started to rise we retreated into the forest where we located Gartered Trogon, Smoky-brown and Lineated Woodpeckers, Ruddy and Ivory-billed Woodcreepers, a Stub-tailed Spadebill (for Bill only), Olive-sided, Yucatan and Dusky-capped Flycatchers, White-bellied Wren and Clay- coloured Thrush. After a short break in the middle of the day, we returned to the forest, but rain sabotaged our birding efforts. We found an ant swarm while holding our umbrellas and admired attending, very well- behaved, Tawny-winged and Northern Barred Woodcreepers, Black Catbird, a fabulous male Hooded Warbler and scores of Red-throated Ant Tanagers. A Collared Aracari sat up for great looks, a Golden-olive Woodpecker foraged on a dead limb and an impressive roost flight of c70 White-fronted Amazons flew past. At dusk we heard a Yucatan Poorwill and the barking of a Barred Forest Falcon and within the forest we soon had exquisite looks at a cute Middle American Screech Owl.

Middle American Screech Owl showed well at night and Gartered Trogon during the day (Mark Van Beirs)

We spent another excellent morning along the Sian Ka’an reserve entrance track. Before dawn we heard a Yucatan Nightjar not too far away, but the bird kept its distance. The most memorable birds were White- bellied Wood Rail (a recent split from Grey-necked Wood Rail), a splendid quartet of impressive Pale-billed Woodpeckers, a Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker, Yellow-olive Flatbill, a rather skulking Mayan Antthrush, a pair of Rose-throated Tanagers and a terrific male Grey-throated Chat. After an early lunch we hit the road south and added Ringed Kingfisher to the list. In mid-afternoon we arrived at our Calakmul hotel, where we birded the grounds where White-tipped Dove and Swainson’s and Wood Thrushes showed. For the final hour of the day we waited at a viewpoint for the exodus of tens of thousands of bats from their cave and we were not disappointed. Endless clouds of bats darkened the sky while Bat Falcon and Roadside and Grey Hawks were trying to pick off a hapless individual. We tried some more nightbirding, but only managed to get brief looks at a Yucatan Poorwill.

7 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com

This immature Yucatan Jay was being fed at an army ant swarm (Mark Van Beirs)

The 60 kilometre long entrance road to the archaeological site of Calakmul takes one through a mixture of dry and more humid tropical woodland and is a glorious place for birds and mammals. Just after dawn we were slowly driving to the core area and soon obtained fabulous looks at the magnificently bizarre Ocellated Turkey. We saw several individuals very well, and one of them gave a truly spectacular display next to our van. He was so incredibly tame and so full of hormones that he attacked us several times. Marvellous stuff! Several Great Curassows showed well too. Our walk in a humid stretch of forest produced an intriguing ant swarm where we obtained point blank looks at a bunch of adult and immature Yucatan Jays, Northern Barred and Ruddy Woodcreepers, White-bellied Wren, White-breasted Wood Wren, Hooded Warbler, Yellow-billed Cacique, several Red-throated Ant Tanagers and an unobtrusive female Grey-throated Chat. Bat Falcon, Black-headed, Gartered and Collared Trogons, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Blue-winged Warbler and a group of endearing White-nosed Coatis showed too. The final stretch of road gave us White-tailed Deer, Collared Peccaries and Central American Agouti.

White-nosed Coati and Ocellated Turkey performed marvellously at Calakmul (Mark Van Beirs)

8 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com The archaeological site of Calakmul is situated deep in the jungles of the greater Petén region, just 35 km from the Guatemalan border. It was one of the largest and most powerful ancient cities ever uncovered in the Maya lowlands. No fewer than 6,750 ancient structures have been identified at Calakmul ("The city of the Two Adjacent Pyramids”) and Structure nr 2, the great pyramid is, with its 45m, one of the tallest of the Maya pyramids. Calakmul reached its apogee in the 7th century. We walked amongst a selection of the best preserved structures, climbed the main pyramid and strolled along the Plaza Central. The almost total lack of other visitors and especially vendors (in sharp contrast to Chichén Itzá) made a visit to this remarkable site a real delight. We enjoyed our stroll as it offered both excellent birding and splendid culture. Long-limbed Central American Spider Monkeys and Yucatan Black Howler Monkeys performed well and we also added Northern Bentbill, Bright-rumped Attila, Worm-eating Warbler and a cracking Tayra to the list. In mid- afternoon it started to rain persistently, so we had to retreat to our lovely hotel.

Central American Spider Monkey and Yucatan Black Howler Monkey added to the fun at Calakmul (Mark Van Beirs)

An extended pre-dawn try for nightbirds along the Calakmul entrance road only produced a distantly calling Mottled Owl. It being unusually cool may have had something to do with this poor result. The humid woodland was extremely quiet too. We really had to work hard to find any activity. Northern Beardless Tyrannulet and Lesser Greenlet were the only new birds for the trip. Bill was lucky and persistent enough to get good looks at a Thicket Tinamou in the dense undergrowth. The ‘crazy’ Ocellated Turkey performed very well again and displayed at length in front of us. During siesta time Barbara also managed to get her bins on a Thicket Tinamou in the woodland surrounding our accommodation, where Swainson’s and Wood Thrushes and Hooded Warblers foraged in the open. In the afternoon we explored some more varied open habitat where a splendid selection of already known hummers showed at length. The glittering green throats and breasts of the Buff-bellied Hummingbirds were especially much appreciated. We managed to add Tropical Pewee, the secretive Yellow-breasted Chat and a Grey Fox to our total. Just at dusk a pair of Bat Falcons showed off their speedy aerobatics as they plucked several bats effortlessly out of the sky. The loud bark chorus of Laughing Falcons and Collared Forest Falcon created a special atmosphere in the twilight and we tried in vain again for nightbirds, as we only heard Yucatan Nightjar and Yucatan Poorwill in the distance. And so ended our enjoyable exploration of the birding and cultural delights of the Yucatan.

9 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com

The razor thin lower mandible of a resting Black Skimmer is usually not easy to see (Mark Van Beirs)

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

The species names and used in the report mostly follows Gill, F & D Donsker (Eds). IOC World Bird Names. This list is updated several times annually and is available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org.

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).

Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

Conservation threat categories and information are taken from Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International’s magnificent book on the sad status of the rarest 10% of the world’s avifauna, and updates on the BirdLife website: http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/home E = Endangered, V = Vulnerable, NT = Near Threatened, DD = Data Deficient.

10 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com

American Flamingos and Brown Pelicans were common at Rio Lagartos (Mark Van Beirs)

Thicket Tinamou ◊ Crypturellus cinnamomeus Heard by everyone and seen by some. Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis A handful of sightings. Blue-winged Teal Anas discors Regular in small numbers, especially at Rio Lagartos. Plain Chachalaca ◊ Ortalis vetula Best of all was their impressive dawn chorus! Great Curassow ◊ Crax rubra Regular, but shy at Calakmul. Yucatan Bobwhite ◊ Colinus nigrogularis Cracking looks at a male at Rio Lagartos. Ocellated Turkey ◊ Meleagris ocellata The undisputed bird of the Trip! Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Several on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos. Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps A few on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos. American Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Fabulous encounters at Rio Lagartos. Wood Stork Mycteria americana A few showed at Rio Lagartos. American White Ibis Eudocimus albus Adults and subtle young were noted at Rio Lagartos. Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Just three of these colourful creatures showed at Rio Lagartos. Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius Excellent looks at a colony at Rio Lagartos. Least Bittern Ixobrychus exilis One flew past at a pond on Cozumel.

Yellow-crowned Night Heron and Great Blue Heron are distinctive species at Rio Lagartos (Mark Van Beirs)

Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea Regular at Rio Lagartos. Green Heron Butorides virescens Just two encounters at Rio Lagartos. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Common in open habitat. Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias Common at Rio Lagartos. Great Egret (American G E) Ardea [alba] americana Common on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos. Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens A white morph was seen on Cozumel.

11 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com Tricolored Heron (Louisiana H) Egretta tricolor Regular at Rio Lagartos. Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Even more common than the previous species. Snowy Egret Egretta thula Common. American White Pelican Pelecanus erythrorhynchos Terrific encounters with these lumbering giants. Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis Common along the coast. Many in breeding attire. Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens These kleptoparasites were regular along the coasts. Neotropic Cormorant (Olivaceous C) Phalacrocorax brasilianus Regular at Rio Lagartos.

Double-crested Cormorant in breeding attire and Western Osprey were obvious at Rio Lagartos (Mark Van Beirs)

Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus Common and showy at Rio Lagartos. Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Three observations at Rio Lagartos. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Savanna V) Cathartes burrovianus Excellent looks. Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Very common. Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus 12 sightings of this well-known piscivore. Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus A single bird was seen at Sian Ka’an. A new bird for the trip! Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus (H) One was hear from within the forest at Calakmul. Common Black Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus Close up looks in the Rio Lagartos mangroves. Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris Regular. White-tailed Hawk Geranoaetus albicaudatus (NL) Bob observed one near Rio Lagartos. Grey Hawk Buteo plagiatus Great looks at several. Ruddy Crake Laterallus ruber Four showed extremely well on Cozumel. Clapper Rail Rallus crepitans One performed very well in the Rio Lagartos mangroves. Rufous-necked Wood Rail ◊ Aramides axillaris Brief looks at one at Rio Lagartos. White-bellied Wood Rail ◊ Aramides albiventris Great views of one in a flooded bit at Sian Ka’an. Sora Porzana carolina Three lovely encounters at Rio Lagartos. Common Gallinule (Laughing G) Gallinula galeata Regular. American Coot Fulica americana Regular sightings. Limpkin Aramus guarauna (H) We heard the distinctive calls on Cozumel. Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Just four were seen at Rio Lagartos. Grey Plover (Black-bellied P) Pluvialis squatarola Small numbers were at the Rio Lagartos saltpans. Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus Just a handful showed at Rio Lagartos. Wilson's Plover (Thick-billed P) Charadrius wilsonia Great looks at three of the crab hunters. Killdeer Charadrius vociferus A few were seen and heard at Rio Lagartos. Snowy Plover Charadrius nivosus Good looks at three at Rio Lagartos.

12 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com

Killdeer and Hudsonian Whimbrel showed at Rio Lagartos (Mark Van Beirs)

Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa The lily trotter was regular at ponds and marshes. Wilson's Snipe Gallinago delicata We flushed a few at Rio Lagartos. Short-billed Dowitcher Limnodromus griseus We found a group of 40 at Rio Lagartos. Whimbrel (Hudsonian W) Numenius [phaeopus] hudsonicus A single bird was at Rio Lagartos. Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca Just a few were observed at Rio Lagartos. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes More common than his bigger brother. Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Great looks at several at Rio Lagartos.

Rio Lagartos also gave us Solitary Sandpiper and Willet (Mark Van Beirs)

Willet (Eastern W) Tringa [semipalmata] semipalmata Several nice encounters at Rio Lagartos. Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius A handful of sightings. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Common along the coasts. Sanderling Calidris alba Regular along sand coasts. Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla Regular at the Rio Lagartos saltpans. Western Sandpiper Calidris mauri We picked out a few from amongst the Semipalmateds.

13 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla Small numbers were at Rio Lagartos. Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Great looks at these special birds at Rio Lagartos. Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla Very common along the Yucatan coasts. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Two were found on a sand bank at Rio Lagartos. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Three sightings of this Old World gull at Rio Lagartos. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Six showed well together with other terns at Rio Lagartos. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia A few of these impressive terns at Rio Lagartos.

The Rio Lagartos village had Cabot’s Terns roosting on its pier (Mark Van Beirs)

Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus The most common tern along the coasts. Cabot's Tern Thalasseus acuflavidus This recent split from Sandwich Tern showed at Rio Lagartos. Common Tern Sterna hirundo A few at the saltpans. Forster's Tern Sterna forsteri Good looks at several at Rio Lagartos.

This Parasitic Jaeger gave very nice views at Rio Lagartos (Mark Van Beirs)

Parasitic Jaeger (Arctic Skua) Stercorarius parasiticus Fantastic studies of one at Rio Lagartos. Rock Dove (introduced) (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia

14 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com White-crowned Pigeon ◊ Patagioenas leucocephala Regular sightings on Cozumel. Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa Scope views of this beauty at Sian Ka’an. Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris Small numbers in woodland habitat. Eurasian Collared Dove (introduced) Streptopelia decaocto Common all along our route. Common Ground Dove Columbina passerina Regular encounters. Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti More common than previous species. Blue Ground Dove Claravis pretiosa (H) We heard it at Calakmul. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Regularly heard and seen in woodland habitat. Caribbean Dove ◊ Leptotila jamaicensis Nice looks, eventually, on Cozumel. Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita Brief encounters along the coast at Rio Lagartos. White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica A very common sound and sight along our route. Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Regular. Lesser Roadrunner ◊ Geococcyx velox (H) We heard the moaning sound at Rio Lagartos. Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana A single encounter at Sian Ka’an. Mangrove Cuckoo Coccyzus minor Very nice views of one on the Rio Lagartos boat trip. Middle American Screech Owl ◊ Megascops guatemalae Splendid looks at this beauty at Sian Ka’an. Mottled Owl Strix virgata A brief encounter at Calakmul. Regularly heard. Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Four excellent sightings and more often heard. Northern Potoo Nyctibius jamaicensis Nice looks at one on Cozumel. Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis A male showed well on Cozumel. Regularly heard. Yucatan Poorwill ◊ Nyctiphrynus yucatanicus One circled around us at Calakmul. Heard elsewhere. Yucatan Nightjar ◊ badius (H) We heard it at three different sites, but no response… Vaux's Swift Chaetura vauxi Regular sightings. William Vaux was a19th century US archaeologist. Wedge-tailed Sabrewing ◊ Campylopterus pampa Excellent views at Sian Ka’an. Green-breasted Mango ◊ Anthracothorax prevostii Perfect encounters on Cozumel. Cozumel Emerald ◊ Chlorostilbon forficatus Regular sightings of both sexes on Cozumel. Canivet's Emerald ◊ Chlorostilbon canivetii Regular sightings of this subtly-plumaged hummer. Cinnamon Hummingbird ◊ Amazilia rutila Several excellent encounters.

The scope views of Buff-bellied Hummingbird and Mexican Sheartail were out of this world (Mark Van Beirs)

Buff-bellied Hummingbird ◊ Amazilia yucatanensis Several great looks at this east Mexican special. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl A single sighting at Sian Ka’an. White-bellied Emerald ◊ Amazilia candida A few showed well in the woodlands.

15 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com Mexican Sheartail ◊ Doricha eliza Fantastic studies of males and females at Rio Lagartos! Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubris Regular encounters with this northern migrant.

Black-headed Trogon and Turquoise-browed Motmot added a splash of colour (Mark Van Beirs)

Black-headed Trogon ◊ Trogon melanocephalus The regular trogon of the Yucatan woods. Gartered Trogon (Northern Violaceous T) Trogon caligatus Another regular bird of Yucatan’s woods. Collared Trogon Trogon collaris We saw two females at Calakmul. Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata A single bird was seen on the drive south. Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon Six observations of this northern migrant. Turquoise-browed Motmot ◊ Eumomota superciliosa Magnificent looks at this beauty at Chichén Itzá. Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus A handful of observations in the south. Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus This stunner was regular at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Yucatan Woodpecker ◊ Melanerpes pygmaeus Perfect looks at this speciality on Cozumel. Velasquez's Woodpecker ◊ Melanerpes santacruzi Common and noisy all along our route. Ladder-backed Woodpecker Picoides scalaris Scope looks at Rio Lagartos. Smoky-brown Woodpecker Picoides fumigatus Three sightings at Sian Ka’an. Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus A single bird was observed at Sian Ka’an. Chestnut-colored Woodpecker Celeus castaneus This write-in showed quite well at Sian Ka’an. Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Nice views of one at Sian Ka’an. Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis Four of these imposing birds were at Sian Ka’an. Northern Crested Caracara (Northern C) Caracara cheriway Regular along quiet roads. Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Three observations of this beauty. Barred Forest Falcon Micrastur ruficollis (H) We heard its barking at Sian Ka’an. Collared Forest Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus (H) Heard at Sian Ka’an and at Calakmul. American Kestrel Falco sparverius Just two encounters. Merlin Falco columbarius Scope views of a female at Rio Lagartos. Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis Regular in the Calakmul area. Impressive bat hunting!

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Peregrine hunted at Rio Lagartos and Northern Barred Woodcreeper was active at ant swarms (Mark Van Beirs)

Peregrine Falcon (Peregrine) Falco peregrinus Three of the migratory tundrius race at Rio Lagartos. White-crowned Parrot ◊ Pionus senilis A single bird was scoped at Sian Ka’an. White-fronted Amazon ◊ (W-f Parrot) Amazona albifrons Regular. 70 together at Sian Ka’an was nice. Yucatan Amazon ◊ Amazona xantholora Best looks were on Cozumel. Olive-throated Parakeet ◊ (Aztec P) Eupsittula [nana] astec Regular throughout. Tawny-winged Woodcreeper ◊ Dendrocincla anabatina Excellent looks at an ant swarm at Sian Ka’an. Ruddy Woodcreeper Dendrocincla homochroa Also showing very well at an ant swarm. Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus (NL) One was seen at Calakmul. Northern Barred Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae Perfect studies at an ant swarm. Ivory-billed Woodcreeper ◊ Xiphorhynchus flavigaster Regularly encountered. A distinctive dawn song. Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus (H) We heard one at Sian Ka’an. Mayan Antthrush ◊ (Mexican A) moniliger Pretty good looks at this skulker at Sian Ka’an. Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata A couple of encounters with this widespread species. Northern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma imberbe A few were noted at Calakmul. Northern Bentbill ◊ Oncostoma cinereigulare Recorded at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Yellow-olive Flatbill (Y-o Flycatcher) Tolmomyias sulphurescens Two observations. Widespread. Stub-tailed Spadebill ◊ Platyrinchus cancrominus One showed all too briefly at Sian Ka’an. Olive-sided Flycatcher Contopus cooperi Scope views of this northern migrant. Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus A single bird was at Calakmul. Least Flycatcher Empidonax minimus Regular sightings of this migrant. Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Splendid looks at displaying birds at Rio Lagartos. Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Regular and vocal. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Small numbers were seen along our route. Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua A single sighting at Chichén Itzá.

17 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com

Northern Beardless Tyrannulet showed off its crest and Brown Jay always call (Mark Van Beirs)

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Common all along our route. Couch's Kingbird ◊ Tyrannus couchii Great looks at several calling birds. Distinctive! Yucatan Flycatcher ◊ Myiarchus yucatanensis A single bird showed well at Sian Ka’an. Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer A single bird was noted at Sian Ka’an. Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus Regular in the southern woodlands. Bright-rumped Attila (Flammulated A) Attila [spadiceus] flammulatus Great looks at one at Calakmul. Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata Regular in the southern woods. Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae Just a single encounter at Sian Ka’an. Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Regularly recorded. White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus This migrant was common in the southern woods. Mangrove Vireo ◊ Vireo pallens Regular at Rio Lagartos and at Sian Ka’an. Cozumel Vireo ◊ Vireo bairdi A handful of sightings on Cozumel. Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons Four observations of this beautiful migrant. Philadelphia Vireo Vireo philadelphicus A single bird was found on Cozumel. Yucatan Vireo ◊ Vireo magister Only two observations of this speciality. Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus This unobtrusive species showed well at Calakmul. Yucatan Jay ◊ Cyanocorax yucatanicus Many eye-ball to eye-ball encounters. Really smart! Green Jay Cyanocorax luxuosus A single encounter at Sian Ka’an. Brown Jay Psilorhinus morio These noisy boys were commonly seen all along. Sand Martin (Bank Swallow) Riparia riparia A single bird was found at Rio Lagartos. Tree Swallow Tachycineta bicolor Dozens were active over the Rio Lagartos lagoons and fields. Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea Nicely performing birds were at Rio Lagartos. Purple Martin Progne subis Regular observations of this migrant. Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis A few were noted on our first day. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica A handful of sightings only. Cave Swallow Petrochelidon fulva A single bird was identified on Cozumel. Yucatan Wren ◊ Campylorhynchus yucatanicus Good looks at Rio Lagartos. Quite unobtrusive! Spot-breasted Wren Pheugopedius maculipectus Regular in the southern woodlands. House Wren ◊ (Cozumel W) Troglodytes [aedon] beani (H) We heard it only once on Cozumel. White-bellied Wren ◊ Uropsila leucogastra Great looks at this tiny wren at Sian Ka’an. White-breasted Wood Wren Henicorhina leucosticta Excellent views of one at an army ant swarm. Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus One showed well at Sian Ka’an. Blue-grey Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea Common on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos. Grey Catbird Dumetella carolinensis Regular sightings of this migrant.

18 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com Black Catbird ◊ Melanoptila glabrirostris Regular on Cozumel and also a few on the mainland. Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus Very common all along our route. Swainson's Thrush Catharus ustulatus Small numbers were seen at fruiting trees.

We found migrants like Wood Thrush at Calakmul and American Redstarts all over Yucatan (Mark Van Beirs)

Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina This beautiful migrant showed well at Calakmul. Clay-colored Thrush Turdus grayi Small numbers of this modestly-clad thrush were noted. Scrub Euphonia Euphonia affinis Very nice observations of these lovelies. Yellow-throated Euphonia ◊ Euphonia hirundinacea (H) We heard their calls at Calakmul. Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorum Great looks at Calakmul. Northern Waterthrush Parkesia noveboracensis Several were noted at Rio Lagartos. Blue-winged Warbler Vermivora cyanoptera Three performed well at Calakmul. Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia Regular observations of this attractive, unusual warbler. Tennessee Warbler Leiothlypis peregrine A handful of observations of this modest bird. Grey-crowned Yellowthroat Geothlypis poliocephala Several great sightings. Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas Regular in the marshes at Rio Lagartos. Hooded Warbler Setophaga citrina This cracker showed superbly at Sian Ka’an and at Calakmul. American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla Many observations of this charming migrant. Northern Parula Setophaga americana Small numbers of this migrant were noted. Magnolia Warbler Setophaga magnolia One of the regular northern migrants. Bay-breasted Warbler Setophaga castanea (NL) One was seen by Bill at Rio Lagartos. American Yellow Warbler Setophaga aestiva Regular sightings. Mangrove Warbler Setophaga petechial Seen in mangrove on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos. Black-throated Blue Warbler Setophaga caerulescens We found a female on Cozumel. A write-in! Myrtle Warbler Setophaga coronata Regular encounters. Yellow-throated Warbler Setophaga dominica This gorgeous species showed well on a few occasions. Black-throated Green Warbler Setophaga virens Regular sightings. Yellow-breasted Chat Icteria virens We saw two in marsh habitat at Calakmul. Yellow-billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus Great looks at one attending an ant swarm. Yellow-backed Oriole Icterus chrysater Excellent views of several at Sian Ka’an. Orange Oriole ◊ Icterus auratus Regular good looks at this speciality in woodland habitat. Altamira Oriole ◊ Icterus gularis Small numbers were seen all along our route. Hooded Oriole Icterus cucullatus Regular encounters with the race igneus. Black-cowled Oriole ◊ Icterus prosthemelas Several showed well at Sian Ka’an. Orchard Oriole Icterus spurius Three observations of this northern migrant.

19 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com

A colourful male Black-throated Green Warbler and a subtly-hued Melodious Blackbird (Mark Van Beirs)

Red-winged Blackbird Agelaius phoeniceus Common at Rio Lagartos. Bronzed Cowbird Molothrus aeneus Two observations at Rio Lagartos. Melodious Blackbird Dives dives More often heard than seen. Regular. Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus Everywhere and very vocal. Bananaquit Coereba flaveola We only saw this cutie on Cozumel (race caboti). Savannah Sparrow Passerculus sandwichensis Singles were noted at Rio Lagartos. Green-backed Sparrow ◊ Arremonops chloronotus Regular in the woodlands. Also at ant swarms. Grey-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata Two showed well at an ant swarm at Calakmul. Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus A single bird was seen at Sian Ka’an. Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Regular observations. White-collared Seedeater ◊ Sporophila torqueola Small numbers were noted. Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivaceus Great looks at several on Cozumel. Western Spindalis ◊ (Western Stripe-headed Tanager) Spindalis zena Very nice looks on Cozumel. Summer Tanager Piranga rubra Regular encounters with this northern migrant. Rose-throated Tanager ◊ Piranga roseogularis Excellent studies at Sian Ka’an. Red-throated Ant Tanager ◊ Habia fuscicauda Glorious looks at males and females at army ants. Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus A few here and there and common at Calakmul. Grey-throated Chat ◊ Granatellus sallaei A nice male was at Sian Ka’an and a female at Calakmul. Northern Cardinal Cardinalis cardinalis Small numbers along our route. Black-headed Saltator Saltator atriceps Noisy birds were at Sian Ka’an and at Calakmul. Blue Bunting ◊ Cyanocompsa parellina Males showed particularly well at Sian Ka’an. Blue Grosbeak Passerina caerulea Some excellent views of this migrant in the north. Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea Many great views of migrant birds. Painted Bunting ◊ Passerina ciris Small numbers of this striking species were seen.

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The magnificent large pyramid of El Castillo at Chichén Itzá is a sight to behold (Mark Van Beirs)

MAMMALS Deppe’s Squirrel Sciurus deppei (NL) One was seen at Calakmul. Yucatan Squirrel Sciurus yucatanensis We saw a few at Sian Ka’an and at Calakmul. Central American Agouti Dasyprocta punctata Several were noted along the Calakmul entrance road. Grey Fox Urocyon cinereoargenteus One showed briefly at dusk at Calakmul. Tayra Eira barbara We managed three pretty good observations in the Calakmul area on 4 March. White-nosed Coati Nasua narica Great looks at eight at Calakmul and a few elsewhere. Lovely! Cozumel Raccoon Procyon pygmaeus Two nice sightings near a marshy pond on Cozumel.

Central American Agouti and thousands upon thousands of bats showed at Calakmul (Mark Van Beirs)

Broad-eared Bat Nyctinomops laticaudatus The most common bat in the famous cave near Calakmul. Central American Spider Monkey (Black-handed S M) Ateles geoffroyi Nice looks at nine at Calakmul. Yucatan Black Howler Monkey Alouatta pigra Good looks at three at Calakmul. Collared Peccary (Javelina) Pecari tajacu A single on Cozumel and three at Calakmul. White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus A single was seen at Calakmul.

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Zebra and Erato Heliconians appeared during the hotter hours of the day (Mark Van Beirs)

REPTILES Black Spiny-tailed Iguana (Black Ctenosaur) Ctenosaura similis Regular sightings. Impressive. Morelet’s Crocodile (Mexican C) Crocodylus moreletii One was seen at Rio Lagartos.

BUTTERFLIES (list compiled by Bill Gradwell) Pipevine Swallowtail Battus philenor Zebra Heliconian Heliconius charithonia Erato Heliconian Heliconius erato Common Morpho Morpho helenor Tropical Checkered-Skipper Pyrgus oileus White Peacock Anartia jatrophae Variable Cracker Hamadryas feronia Great Southern White Ascia monuste Monarch Danaus plexippus Marine Blue Leptotes cassius Grey Cracker Hamadryas februa Banded Peacock Anartia fatima Yellow-angled Sulphur Anteos maerula Plain Satyr Cissia pompilia Cramer’s Ur-Satyr Taygetis virgilia Julia Heliconian Dryas iulia Mexican Yellow Eurema mexicana

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We had several great encounters with White-nosed Coatis (Bob Newman)

The male Ocellated Turkey that frightened the hell out of us… and made the tour so special (Bob Newman)

23 BirdQuest Tour Report: THE YUCATAN PENINSULA, MEXICO www.birdquest-tours.com