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NEW CRAG DEVELOPMENT GUIDE Use Your Power, VOTE!

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NEW CRAG DEVELOPMENT GUIDE Use Your Power, VOTE! THE NATIONAL PUBLICATION OF THE ACCESS FUND VOLUME 60, OCTOBER 2004 ADOPT-A-CRAG SUMMITS WITH 99 EVENTS! NEW CRAG DEVELOPMENT GUIDE Use your power, VOTE! In my role here at the Access Fund I US Congressman was elected to office by have the great pleasure of meeting and a handful of votes, and many local elections interacting with climbers all over the country. come down to a difference of less than 10 This happens at public meetings, climb- votes. ing events, political forums, Adopt-A-Crag For our work we find great help from stewardship projects and just getting out Republicans and Democrats alike. The old climbing. Being a vast country it may be a cliché “all politics is local” is very true when while before I meet with you personally but you get down to advocating for climbing I feel like I receive a broad base of input. access and conservation. Cast your vote A consistent message I hear is that our in favor of those who have supported your elected officials and the managers of our efforts and deny it to those who legislate or public lands, while they may not take all the regulate in ways contrary to your beliefs, it actions we want, do listen when we speak will make a difference. up, and especially when we show up in If you are not sure who to support in your large numbers and speak our minds. local county, Congress and Senate races, When I first turned 18 (and could vote) speak with the local Access Fund affiliate the Vietnam war was just winding down and organization or regional coordinator and the draft still in place ( I had a low number ask them who has been favorable to their for the draft) so I had plenty of incentive advocate work (see www.accessfund.org for to vote. Anyone who tells you your vote contact info) does not matter is absolutely correct, if you You have the power, use it! Get out and do NOT vote. While you may seem lost in vote in November—it will make a difference! a vast sea when you think of presidential Steve Matous politics I can tell you here in CO at least one Executive Director On the cover: Volunteers build a trail at an Adopt-a-Crag event at the 7th Annual Wild Iowa-Pictured Rocks Adopt-a-Crag Clean-up hosted by the Eastern Iowa Climbers’ Coalition. Evan Fales is pictured in the foreground with the grimace, Kevin Sharkness (president of the Eastern Iowa Climbers Coalition) wields the shovel, and in the background is Dan Schulz. It was Dan's first climbing outing even though he grew up outside of Yosemite (Photo by John Richard). 2 3 climbing-related damage to a minimum. But even if you minimize your impacts, build a responsible trail to the base of your route, try not to offend other users, and New Crag Development as an keep bolts camoufl aged, the cumulative Access Issue impacts of your crag development must (By Jason Keith, Policy Director) be subject to everyone’s scrutiny if it’s located on public land (private land crag Climbers who put up new routes on development—much of where we climb public land are headed for cross-roads in east of the Mississippi—has a separate the next few years. Impacts related to list of access considerations, primary of developing new crags are increasingly which is to obtain permission from the coming to the attention of land manag- landowner). ers and other interested parties. Every So now what? You’re still going to climb, few weeks, a new “crag issue” emerges right? And that new line you saw will just that increasingly puts climbers and land get done by someone else if you don’t do managers on a collision course: climbers, it fi rst. Plus, if you’ve ever been involved believing the land is theirs, and (with good in land management planning you know intentions) “put in” a dozen new climbs, that process takes forever, so if you take complete with trails and easy-to-clip that path you may never get to do your protection. However, the land manager new climb. Just because your local land gets a call from a concerned individual or manager hasn’t done any climbing-related group worried about the impacts of a few environmental assessments doesn’t mean bolted sport-climbs. As a result, the land your public land privileges are limited. manager—often grudgingly—is now forced However, balance here is key: the more to do something, and the chances are sensitive we are to climbing related that climbers will lose out because more impacts the more reasonable we appear likely than not that new crag was devel- and the more likely we’ll get to keep oped without agency oversight or public climbing. Consider about the following process. In the coming years, continued when developing your new public crag. new route activity could backfire against Know where you’re climbing and the the climbing community, forcing land man- relevant applicable law agers to implement restrictive climbing Some of the recent new crag management policies that limit new route controversies emerged because climbers development. didn’t know where they were in terms of Think of it this way: if you hiked into applicable rules. For example, the Infi nite your favorite climbing area only to fi nd that Bliss route in Washington State upset the local outing club had blazed a new trail local land managers, in part, because of its through the forest without telling anyone, location in federally designated wilderness would that be OK? That’s what climbers and power drills may have been used do every time they anonymously develop when putting up the route. Not only are a new crag on public land. Federal law power drills illegal in wilderness, but the requires that land managers allow the “bootleg” trail leading up to the route, public to analyze and comment on any while fairly minor, was established without proposed human activity that could have a agency oversight. The Infi nite Bliss fi rst signifi cant impact on the environment. This ascensionists actually thought they were way each user group is assured that their favorite resource isn’t impaired by another user group—not to mention potential impacts to fragile natural and cultural resources. There have been some high profi le “new crag issues” this past year which have defi nitely gotten the attention of land managers. Most folks are sensitive to their impacts and try their best keep Charley Mace 2 3 outside the wilderness boundary (an their routes and cache tools at the base. This outdated map sold at the USFS ranger industrial approach to crag development is station indicated such), but a phone call defi nitely an access issue—there’s perhaps confi rming these specifi cs could have no better way to freak out your local land prevented many headaches. As a result manager or environmentalist than turning local climbing activists were forced to a public crag into what looks like an indoor meet with a local environmental group and climbing gym. Be reasonable and clean up a US Forest Service wilderness manager after each day rather than leaving hardware to try and resolve everyone’s concerns. slung all over the place for weeks at a time. It remains unclear what will be done This convenience-based approach to route with the bolts on the route and whether development has actually gotten crags the USFS will formally incorporate the closed. approach trail into their trail plan. The point? Know the specifi c rules that apply Get to know your land managers where your project is located. Know that Land managers are the single most while you have an equal privilege with all infl uential person in terms of your new other users of public land, you don’t have route activity. They can keep you climbing a right to do whatever you want, no matter or shut you down, but you’re bound to how remote and isolated your new crag. get a better shake if you are friends with Call the local land manager to fi nd out the people that control management where relevant boundaries lie and what policy. Call up the local ranger, ask to talk rules apply. with the person in charge of recreation management, and see where it goes. Minimize your impacts Remember, these people typically have New crag impacts concern the tons on their plate, and climbing no approach trail, the base staging area, doubt is fairly low on their priorities list. and the cliff itself as well as the cliff-top. Sometimes that land manager is a climber As noted above, trails are a problem. so it may be easy to talk about new Most crag developers try hard to build route development in their management responsible approach routes to minimize area. For those that are not familiar with erosion; however, actually constructing climbing this is an opportunity to inform a trail requires permission from the land them what climbing is all about and its manager. If you don’t have permission, long tradition on public lands. don’t build a trail! This doesn’t mean that A good relationship with your land you can’t walk along the same route thus manager is the best way to ensure “establishing” a minor path as you go, but continued access to your local cliff, but developing a full-blown trail may concern you’ll have to decide for yourself exactly a lot of people which in turn could force a what you want to share with them.
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