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As Fashion Is Credible in Both Human History and Art Museums While
Squeezing In and Zipping Up: Canada’s Involvement in the late 20th and 21st Century Trend of Fashion Exhibition Laurie Filgiano A Thesis in The Department of Art History Presented in Partially Fulfillment of the Requirements For the Degree of Master of Arts (Art History) at Concordia University Montrea, Quebec, Canada August 2011 © Laurie Filgiano 1 CONCORDIA UNIVERSITY School of Graduate Studies This is to certify that the thesis prepared By: Laurie Filgiano Entitled: Squeezing In and Zipping Up: Canada‘s Involvement in the Late 20th and 21st Century Trend of Fashion Exhibitions and submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts (ART HISTORY) complies with the regulations of the University and meets the accepted standards with respect to originality and quality. Signed by the final Examining Committee: ________________________________________________________Chair Loren Lerner ________________________________________________________Examiner Loren Lerner ________________________________________________________Supervisor Elaine Paterson Approved by ___________________________________ Johanne Sloan Graduate Program Director ___________2011 _____________________________ Catherine Wild Dean of Faculty 1 ABSTRACT Squeezing In and Zipping Up: Canada‘s Involvement in the late 20th and 21st Century Trend of Fashion Exhibition Laurie Filgiano This thesis discusses the development of 20th century fashion within the space of Canadian museums. I argue that while Canada has the means to conceive groundbreaking -
"Index." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress
Petrov, Julia. "Index." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019. 227–234. Bloomsbury Collections. Web. 24 Sep. 2021. <>. Downloaded from Bloomsbury Collections, www.bloomsburycollections.com, 24 September 2021, 22:37 UTC. Copyright © Julia Petrov 2019. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher, and provide a link to the Creative Commons licence. INDEX archival methodology 5, 10, 191 121, 127, 142, 145, 149, 152, 153, artists and fashion 10, 15, 18, 36, 40, 156, 163, 179, 180 93–9, 116, 128 Costume Museum of Canada 125 Australia (fashion exhibitions in) 5, 20, 71, Cunnington, C. Willett 78, 171–2, 189 79, 89, 142, 170, 197 authenticity 25, 114, 120, 183 deathliness 1, 18, 137, 151, 168–9 Denver Art Museum 133 Barbican Art Gallery 59, 89 Beaton, Cecil 50, 54, 55, 111, 187, 190, exhibition design 1, 8, 9, 49, 50, 54, 59, 192 113, 120, 183, 196, 198 Beaudoin-Ross, Jacqueline 79 exhibitions as visual media 6–8, 11, 194 behind the scenes 13, 125, 129–31 Biba (designer) 39, 51 fashion 3, 9, 15, 26, 29, 35–6, 37, 160, Blum, Stella 163 186, 195 Bolton, Andrew 81, 192 fashion curation as team product 1, 5, Bowes Museum 59, 132 8, 183 Brett, Katherine B. 26, 97, 153, 164 Fashion Institute of Design and British Museum 32, 33, 118, 189 Merchandising (FIDM) Museum 55, Brooklyn Museum 4, 43, 47, 55, 67, 68, 73, 81 78, 81, 88, 99, 100, 106–7, 108, 109, Fashion Museum (Bath) 4, 26, 44, 48, 55, 126, 143, 145, 149, -
"Tableaux Vivants: the Influence of Theater." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress
Petrov, Julia. "Tableaux Vivants: The Influence of Theater." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019. 113–136. Bloomsbury Collections. Web. 27 Sep. 2021. <http://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781350049024.ch-006>. Downloaded from Bloomsbury Collections, www.bloomsburycollections.com, 27 September 2021, 22:22 UTC. Copyright © Julia Petrov 2019. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher, and provide a link to the Creative Commons licence. 5 TABLEAUX VIVANTS: THE INFLUENCE OF THEATER A painting is primarily experienced as a two-dimensional work of art, whereas museum exhibitions operate in three dimensions, and thus, the showmanship of theater has also influenced the display of historical fashion. Early curators such as Doris Langley Moore and the team behind the Costume Institute at the Met had theater design backgrounds and infused their exhibitions with the type of spectacle with which they were professionally familiar. Even now, major museums such as the Met often draw on the expertise of theatrical lighting and set designers to stage their blockbuster shows. In this chapter, theater and performativity are used to explain how the representation of life and movement was staged in fashion exhibitions. To a large extent, this has relied on the creation of mannequin “actors,” clothing’s occupants in effigy, which could be posed alongside other mannequins or objects and props, as though interacting with them. Whether by placing mannequins onto stages of period rooms or into semi-furnished vignettes, or by staging fashion shows where live models wore museum pieces, theatrical practices of choreography and spectatorship influence any display that attempts to inject a semblance of life to a mannequin pantomime. -
Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present
THE GREENWOOD ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CLOTHING THROUGH AMERICAN HISTORY 1900 TO THE PRESENT THE GREENWOOD ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CLOTHING THROUGH AMERICAN HISTORY 1900 TO THE PRESENT VOLUME 1 1900–1949 Amy T. Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, Ann T. Kellogg, and Lynn W. Payne Amy T. Peterson, General Editor GREENWOOD PRESS Westport, Connecticut • London Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through American history 1900 to the present / Amy T. Peterson, general editor [v. 1], Ann T. Kellogg, general editor [v. 2]. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978 0 313 35855 5 ((set) : alk. paper)—ISBN 978 0 313 33395 8 ((vol. 1) : alk. paper)—ISBN 978 0 313 33417 7 ((vol. 2) : alk. paper) 1. Clothing and dress—United States—History—20th century. I. Peterson, Amy T. II. Kellogg, Ann T., 1968 GT615.G74 2008 391.0097309004—dc22 2008024624 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available. Copyright C 2008 by Amy T. Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, Ann T. Kellogg, and Lynn W. Payne All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, by any process or technique, without the express written consent of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2008024624 ISBN: 978 0 313 35855 5 (set) 978 0 313 33395 8 (vol. 1) 978 0 313 33417 7 (vol. 2) First published in 2008 Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, CT 06881 An imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc. www.greenwood.com Printed in the United States of America The paper used in this book complies with the Permanent Paper Standard issued by the National Information Standards Organization (Z39.48 1984). -
Canadian Ethnic Studies
LLOYD WONG AND SHIBAO GUO Editors’ Note Owing to unforeseen circumstances, we had a number of delays with the publication of this special double issue on Ukrainian Canadians. To our 2010 subscribers, we ask that you please accept our sincere apologies for this delay. Since we are now publish- ing this special issue, we have numbered it Volume 47.4-5, 2015 [Volume 42.2-3, 2010] with the bracketed volume and issue numbers indicating that this was when it was originally scheduled to be publish. We hope this satisfies our obligations to our 2010 subscribers and to the authors who so generously submitted material to this issue and patiently waited for it to be published. We believe this issue will be a sig- nificant and important contribution to the study of Ukrainian Canadians. We thank you for your patience and understanding and for your continuing support of Canadian Ethnic Studies. INTRODUCTION NATALIA APONIUK –SPECIAL GUEST EDITOR Ukrainian Canadians, Canada, Ukraine, and the Popular Imagination “Look at where Canada is, and look at where Ukraine and Russia are…. Neither Canada nor the U.S. have [sic] the same amount [sic] of interests in Ukraine as Russia does.” – Vladimir Putin, president of Russia, as reported by the Canadian Press, May 24, 2014 This special issue of Canadian Ethnic Studies is being published at the intersection of two momentous events. In Canada the 125th anniversary of Ukrainian settlement will be celebrated in 2016. Although it is highly likely that individual Ukrainians came to Canada much earlier, 1891 is generally accepted as the beginning of the first wave of mass migration from Ukraine.