Taipei Dadaocheng Fireworks Festival

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JULY / AUG. BIMONTHLY 2009 DT72 ｜發｜現｜臺｜北｜ Taipei FUN Music Love and Fireworks in the Air for Chinese Valentine’s Day 2009 Taipei Dadaocheng Fireworks Festival

2009 Mid-summer Jazz Promenade Taipei International Jazz Festival

A Symphony Crossing Forty Years, a Gift in Mid-Summer Days 2009 Taipei Music Festival EDITOR'S INTRODUCTION Taipei FUN Music ! he height of the Taipei summer, July and August, is a time of great zest for the city's Tpeople. The sounds of music ﬂoat through the air in a great jamboree of creativity and freedom. We invite all of our friends from faraway lands to come and join the party, and enjoy the passionately warm and sultry ambiance of Taipei in the summertime.

The theme for this issue is, appropriately enough, Taipei FUN Music. We jump into the kaleidoscope of music activities, discovering the best on tap to launch you on the journey of summer sensual exploration in depth. There's romance in the offing, along with a ﬁne walking tour of the old district of Dadaocheng – hand-in-hand with the apple of your eye – with the 2009 Dadaocheng Fireworks Festival. And there's more sensory stimulations, with many a music tryst in the parks, with the 2009 Taipei International Jazz Festival, 2009 Taipei International Choral Festival, 2009 Taipei Music Festival, and other grand gatherings of talent in Taiwan and from around the world.

For a slight change of pace and mood, we then move on to a review of premium local restaurants that serve up the ﬁnest of live music with delicious foods. The venues are eclectic and wide-ranging, and you'll be able to ﬁnd stage acts in pretty much any genre you want. Staying with the food theme but sweetening things up, we then report on the city's endless array of summertime ice treats, a favorite way to cool down when temperatures spike.

We've made an appointment with you for a leisurely day-tour through a neighborhood that cultivates mind and soul; meet us over in The Many Fragrances of the Wen Luo Ding Book, Coffee, and Music Trip feature. Then it's off to our report on the 2009 Taipei Water Festival for some wild summer fun. In July, the 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival hits the stage, and we bring you a suitcase full of information on the many preferential deals on hotels and other travel-package goodies you can treat yourself on a trip of culture and sightseeing fun. After this, it's off we go on an expedition along the new MRT Neihu Line to find out things you can now so conveniently do in that part of the metropolis. One of the biggest events ever be hosted here in Taipei is the 2009 Taipei Deaflympics in September, the largest sporting event ever to be staged in Taiwan, and we report on the four big events that will make up this gala's warm-up exercise, the “Taipei Deaflympics Month of the Arts,”with an August launch. We wrap up with two features on important local personalities on the music scene – Matthew Lien, renowned for his eco-passionate recordings, and Xiao Qing-yang, receiver of three Grammy nominations for recording-package design in recent years. In this issue, all you need to know about the local world of music, and about the rest of your best high-summer options for fun and freedom, is at your fingertips.

Yes, Taipei the Music City, awaits you this summer with toes tapping and oodles of Taipei FUN Music! 06 16 FEATURE ARCHITECTURE 04 A Ramble through Taipei, a Music City 16 Performance Spaces that Echo with Music 06 Love and Fireworks in the Air for Chinese 16 Taipei Arena – A Colossus Stage Meant for the Valentine’s Day – 2009 Taipei Dadaocheng Giants of the Music Biz Fireworks Festival 17 National Concert Hall – Classical Pedigree, International Caliber 08 2009 Mid-summer Jazz Promenade 18 Let the Notes of Vibrant Musicality Dance through Taipei International Jazz Festival the Outdoors – The Daan Park Amphitheater and 10 A Grand Gathering of International Choral Talent Huashan 1914. Creative Park 2009 Taipei International Choral Festival 12 A Symphony Crossing Forty Years, a Gift in Mid- Summer Days – 2009 Taipei Music Festival

32 52 LIVING IN TAIPEI ARTS 32 Power in Me! 21st Summer Deaflympics 52 Artistic Strength that Never Wavers – 2009 Taipei in Taipei 2009 Arts Festival 36 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival – The City’s Fine 54 Children’s Dreams Coming True – 2009 Taipei Inns Take the Midsummer Stage! Children’s Arts Festival 40 All Aboard the MRT! Connect Neihu to the 56 The Wall – Mecca for Taiwan’s Underground Brand New World Music Scene 42 Urban Aqua Amusement Park The 2009 Taipei Water Festival 44 A Trip through the Book, Coffee, and Music Fragrances of Wen Luo Ding 48 Matthew Lien : Promoter of Pristine and Primal Taiwan Music 50 Foreigners’ Reflections on Taipei 20 24 MARKETPLACE FOOD 20 An Arts and Culture Marketplace Fusing Music, 24 For a Yummy Dose of Colorful Creativity, Eat Fine Food, and Culture – Shida Night Market Taipei’s Summertime Ice Treats! 28 In Taipei, Music in All Styles Is Yours for the Asking

58 62 CREATIVE TAIPEI PRACTICAL INFORMATION 58 A Romantic Chinese Valentine’s at MOCA 62 July-August Arts Exhibition Calendar Taipei – "MATCH Index" Lovebirds KUSO 65 How You Get from Taiwan Taoyuan International Modeling Competition Airport to Taipei 60 Grammy Glory Comes to a Home-grown Talent 66 Shida Night Market Map / Wen Luo Ding Map / Recording Package Designer Xiao Qing-yang Taipei Water Festival Map & Information FEATURE

4 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 5 o call Taipei a“city of music”is no exaggeration. Even before you've fully wiped away the sleep Tfrom your eyes, Good Morning, Taipei (早安，臺北) is pouring forth from Taipei Broadcasting Station on the radio. In the afternoon, there are many art and culture spaces, with pop-singer signing records at record stores in youth-packed Ximending, the entertainers playing their trade in parks, commercial circles, and myriad other spots, and the historic sites housing cafes where ﬁne music is mixed in with your premium coffee. As night falls, the music restaurants near National Taiwan University rouse themselves to life, as do the many lounge bars, the National Concert Hall, Taipei Arena, Metropolitan Hall, and countless other performance venues.

If you're just setting off on your exploration of the Taipei melody, let's head off together on a feast of performance venues that rivals the best of the West. It is apropos to start with the genre of the longest pedigree, classical music, and we'll first explore the classical expressions in historical locations. Zhongshan Hall (中山堂) was built during the Japanese colonial period and, in recent years, has been declared a heritage site, refurbished, and given new life as a“small is beautiful”music concert venue. Among other rescued heritage sites and important historical architecture are the Red House (西門紅樓) in nearby Ximending and the Huashan 1914. Creative Park (華山創意文化園區), which has facilities for outdoor shows. Other key venues for concerts, classical and any other genre in fact, are the auditorium at Daan Park (大安森林公園音樂臺), the squares before the city's various social education institutions, neighborhood parks, and even MRT stations with their agreeable street-artist performances. Wherever you and the rest of this city's people flow, musical notes float along with you.

The Metropolitan Hall (城市舞臺) comes under the auspices of the Taipei City Department of Cultural Affairs’Taipei Cultural Center (臺北市立社教館). The idea behind the facility is to provide another sophisticated upscale venue option for musical performances. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall and the National Concert Hall at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall are premier locations for the staging of mid-and large- scale performances. The Taipei International Convention Center and Taipei Arena are frequent choices for extremely large-scale happenings, whether classical, crossover, or pop concerts. So whether a concert promoter or an avid concert-goer, your particular ensemble of needs can be accommodated, whatever the combination.

The city is also pouring resources into the establishment of a whole slate of spanking-new cultural performance complexes. These projects include the Taipei City Museum (臺北城市博物館) near Zhongshan Stadium, the Taipei Performing Arts Center (臺北藝術中心) in Shilin, the Northern Taiwan Pop Musice Center in Nangang (北部流行音樂中心), and the Songshan Tobacco Factory Culture Park (松山菸廠文化園區). When these come on-line, a music and arts environment that is already ﬂourishing will become a veritable garden of culture Eden, and the discerning traveler from overseas will be the lucky benefactor, spoiled for choice.

The music performed here in Taipei is the best found in the land. Symphonies, chamber music, pop, jazz, and all else as well; each year the number, quality, and variety of the events rivals those found in other metropolis in Asia. The best in the land, and the best from other lands - illustrious artworks and artists such as the Three Tenors, Sarah Brightman, Phantom of the Opera, Cats - is brought in, leaving music gourmets sated with choice.

Taking in concerts, listening to albums, radios on everywhere, stores and shops pumping in hits, classical, pop, avant-garde, folk. Here in this place, life is filled with music, and Taipei Music City is a place we never feel lonely.

4 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 5 FEATURE Love and Fireworks in the Air for Chinese Valentine's Day 2009 Taipei Dadaocheng Fireworks Festival

daytime, you can stroll along old Dihua Street and take in many places of historical interest, especially the famed religious and cultural hub of the neighborhood, ach year, the Taipei Dadaocheng Fireworks Festival the old Xiahai City God Temple (霞海城隍廟). If you've E(臺北大稻埕煙火節) spectacular brings in happy come without a sweetheart, you can ask for one here, revellers in tremendous waves. This year's extravaganza as many people do, from the Old Man under the is on Aug. 22, and as always, a coruscating mix of Moon (月下老人), Chinese God of Love. Then towards music and cultural performances will be included. the evening, stroll over to the nearby Dadaocheng The theme for this year's event is Valentine's love and Wharf (大稻埕碼頭), venue for the fireworks festival, the Milky Way's role – based on a beloved Chinese where you'll be awestruck with the panoply of activities folktale – as a bridge of love. If you'd like to be on showing off the arts and culture of Dadaocheng and hand with the one you love for the resplendent show of the forest of stalls featuring sparklingly creative items. music and fireworks, you'd best head over early, for lots and lots and lots of folks will have the very same idea. At about 20:30, as the light fades, the first stream of The musical notes will fill up the air and the fireworks will fireworks will rocket forth from near the Dadaocheng light up the sky, wrapping you up in a perfect night of stage – the blazing curtain-raiser for the fireworks fest. “ romantic love. This show will be quickly followed up by the Zhongxiao Bridge – Music and Fireworks Come Together”(忠孝橋－音樂煙火匯演 The Romance of the Taipei Night Sky in ) sound and light boom-fest, with Midsummer fireworks bursting into rings, flowers, lasers, sizzlers, and every other exploding shape and form imaginable. The Department of Information and Tourism, which is Wow! These will be accompanied by the romantic tasked by the city government with handling the event, dulcet tones of the inimitable Sarah Brightman, brings the highly cultured ambiance of Dadaocheng creating a sensual hearing and vision onslaught that and the neighborhood's deep font of historical and will leave you exhausted and gasping for breath. nostalgic expressions to the mix for the fireworks festival. But it's not over. Following tight behind this will be the This is the fifth year the party is being held. During the “Dadaocheng – Theatrical Fireworks”(大稻埕－劇情式

6 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 7 1-2. In addition to the big ﬁreworks spectacular, the festival also thrills visitors with a scintillating line-up of music shows, arts, and culture activities. 3-4. Each year the Dadaocheng Fireworks Festival draws great numbers of people to the Dadaocheng Wharf area for the dazzling show of bright bursting bombs.

煙火) work of art, which will magically make the Milky Way appear in the sky – the magpie-formed bridge of love that appears only on Chinese Valentine's Day, allowing the star-crossed lovers of the Cowherd and Weaver Girl (牛郎與織女) to meet each other this day. Information

Leaving you nary a moment to catch your breath, Recommended Fireworks Viewing and the 2009 Dadaocheng Taipei Fireworks Festival will also Photo/Video Locations feature a steady stream of popular singers hitting the 1. Riverside areas in both Sanchong (三重) and stage to soothe and excite you with songs of love. On Dadaocheng this night, Dadaocheng will be the capital of romance 2. Dadaocheng Riverside Park in Taiwan. 2009 Taipei Dadaocheng Fireworks Festival To ensure that everyone has a grand time on the 2009大稻埕煙火節 grand day, both locals and tourists, the organizer Time: Aug. 22 (Sat) has mapped out a detailed blueprint for area traffic Tel: 1999 (outside Taipei City 02-2720-8889) control and will have more MRT trains scheduled on Venues: North side of Zhongxiao Bridge, Dadaocheng the nearby Danshui line. The services will be extended Wharf (between Danshui River watergate No. that night, and shuttle buses running to the MRT stations 3 and No. 5) will be avaiable. 忠孝橋北側、大稻埕碼頭(淡水河3號至5號水門間) Transportation: Have a joyous – and happily romantic – 2009 Taipei 1. Take Exit No. 2 at Shuanglian Station on MRT Danshui Dadaocheng Fireworks Festival. The organizer has Line (watergate No. 5 is close by) done its part for the midsummer joy; the romance is up 2. Bus No. 9, 12, 206, 255, 274, 518, 539, 641, 669, 704, to you. 801, and Red 33

6 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 7 FEATURE

2009 Mid-summer Jazz Promenade Taipei International Jazz Festival

ne of the most relaxing and refreshing pastimes at the height Oof the Taipei summer is swaying to the tunes of good jazz amidst the breezes of local evenings. Since 2005, the organizers of the Taipei International Jazz Festival, the city government's Department of Cultural Affairs and the Taipei International Jazz Education and Promotion Association (臺北市國際爵士樂教育推廣協會), have been bringing in the top brass in international talent and creating sterling programs that just keep improving each year. This year, of course, the trend continues, with a thrilling line- up of overseas talent being invited to match the top-calibre local talent that has been booked, creating a sizzling cross-flow of musical creativity. Your attendance is welcomed and much anticipated, and as the reward, you will be witnessing one of the most stimulating music and cultural events of the Taipei summer.

This year's schedule is divided into three major programs: Mid- summer Jazz Promenade Concerts (仲夏爵士悠遊音樂會), Daan Jazz Carnivals (大安森林公園爵士樂嘉年華), and International Jazz Masters Rendezvous (國際爵士名家星空音樂會). Jazz – good jazz – is still the name of the game at all three, of course, with a wide- ranging mix of styles and genres. The Mid-summer Jazz Promenade Concerts program is designed not only to show the superlative skills of home-grown Jazz masters, but also as a showcase for the consummate artistry of superior talent from faraway places as well, including the Netherlands, South Africa, Japan, and other jazz- loving hotbeds. In response to the strong feedback after last year's festival, on Jul. 18, there will be an additional show at the Square of the Taipei Fine Arts Museum to let even more jazz aﬁcionados satisfy their craving for the genius of these highly talented minstrels.

The Daan Jazz Carnivals is a brand new spin for the festival this year. The best in young, up-and-coming talents on the island have been invited to play in Daan Park. Spreading out around the park's main stage, they will no doubt bring rousing energy and passionate enthusiasm to the festivities. You'll not only be embraced by soothing, romantic arrangements, but also by Latin, funk, and other distinctive genres. On the big nights, Jul. 24 - 25 from 16:30

8 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 9 to 18:30, you'll also be able to sit before master players of the New Orleans, Brazilian samba, Cuban, and other styles of music, each with its own heart and soul. You'll laugh, you'll sway, you'll swing, you'll sing – and you'll go home very, very happy.

The annual jazz shindig has always had the International Jazz Masters Rendezvous as its grand finale. Here, the crème de la crème of the international jazz pantheon hit the stage, including genius from the USA, Belgium, Germany, Italy, and, proudly, Taiwan too. The party starts at 19:30 to 21:30, Jul. 24, and is so much fun that it happens again the next day, Jul. 25, at the same time. The location is the amphitheater at Daan Park. Prepare yourself for virtuoso performances on the flute, clarinet, sax, trumpet, and many other quintessential jazz instruments in all. The air of the city will be painted with music, a night-sky canvas of free-flowing jazz colors.

At this warm mid-summer time, just come to Taipei and immerse yourself in the jamboree joys of jaunty jazz. The time has come to jazz up your life!

Information

Mid-summer Jazz Promenade Concerts 仲夏爵士悠遊音樂會 Performer: Gin's Quartology (Taiwan) Time: 16:30, Jul. 18 (Sat) Performer: A.S.K. Trio (South Africa, Netherlands, Japan) Time: 18:30, Jul. 18 (Sat) Venue: Square of Taipei Fine Arts Museum Daan Jazz Carnivals 大安森林公園爵士樂嘉年華 Times: 16:30-18:30, Jul. 24 (Fri), Jul. 25 (Sat) Venue: Daan Park International Jazz Masters Rendezvous 國際爵士名家星空音樂會 1-2. Taipei International Jazz Festival performances are put on Performers: Jazz players from USA, Belgium, Italy, at the outdoor stage. Germany, and Taiwan 3. France's Duthu Panossian Duo will be performing outside Times: 19:30-21:30, Jul. 24 (Fri), Jul. 25 (Sat) Zhongshan Hall as part of the 2009 Mid-summer Jazz Venue: Daan Park Amphitheater Promenade. (Photos courtesy of the Taipei International Jazz Education 2009 Mid-summer Jazz Promenade – Taipei and Promotion Association) International Jazz Festival 2009仲夏爵士悠遊—臺北國際爵士音樂節 Websites: www.taipeijazz.com (Taipei International Jazz Education and Promotion Association) www.culture.gov.tw (Dept. of Cultural Affairs, Taipei City Govt.)

8 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 9 FEATURE

A Grand Gathering of International Choral Talent 2009 Taipei International Choral Festival

o you remember the movie“Sister Act,”starring Philharmonic Chorus, and the Taipei Philharmonic Youth DWhoopi Goldberg, with its warm scenes of joyous Orchestra. The music of the day will be excerpts from and moving choral singing？Well, with the Taipei Joseph Haydn's glorious, soaring“Die Schöpfung.” Philharmonic Foundation for Culture and Education (臺 Next up, on Jul. 27, is the internationally popular and 北愛樂文教基金會) as organizer, along with the Council for acclaimed conductor Jonathan Velasco, from the Cultural Affairs and the city government's Department of Philippines. He is also the chairman of the Philippine Cultural Affairs in support, the passion and fervor is to be Choral Directors Association, who will lead his recreated with the inaugural Taipei International Choral homeland's Ateneo Chamber Singers in a rousing tour Festival (臺北國際合唱音樂節), bringing together the best of the Philippines' newest compositions, folk ballads, talent in Taiwan and a host of elite troupes from around and popular hits. On Jul. 28, there will be another the world. To be staged from Jul. 26 - Aug. 2, all shows fantastic concert by Finland's Philomela Choir, whose are preformed at the National Concert Hall. With such a music explores the joys and sorrows experienced in the strong lineup, their thunderous voices will deﬁnetly allow life of a woman. You'll be dazzled by the range of the you to experience something different this summer. human voice displayed, with virtuoso accomplishment far beyond the realm of what you thought possible, The host of invited groups is exceptionally fantastic. bringing you high with sweetness and down again with On Jul. 26, the opening event will feature esteemed the rough and rude, bold and unconstrained. The choir Hungarian conductor Gábor Hollerung, accompanied is renowned as a north Europe trail-blazer in“choral by soprano Chen Mei-lin (陳美玲), tenor Fernando Wang theater,”and you're in for a marvelous, exhilarating trip, (王典), baritone Liau Chong-boon (廖聰文), the Taipei replete with grand theatricality.

10 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 11 1. The 200-person Festival Choir and 100-person Taipei Philharmonic Youth Orchestra are to put on a tightly orchestrated extravaganza that is unprecedented. 2. The Ateneo Chamber Singers, from the Philippines 3. The Philomela Choir from Finland

On Jul. 30, another group from Finland, the Texas A Cappella Choir and Club for Five will entertain celebrated Club for Five, a cappella ensemble, will step you in the first half, and then in the second session, up. No instrumental accompaniment, of course, but Swedish conductor Fred Sjöberg will lead such leading you'll be startled and thrilled for your hearing a whole international lights as mezzo soprano Shih I-chiao (石 range of virtuoso virtual-instrument accompaniment. The 易巧), tenor Vicente Fortunato Moran, the 200-person singers can magically recreate the sounds of electric Festival Choir (節慶合唱團), and the 100-person Taipei guitars, saxophones, trumpets, and jazz tomtoms – pretty Philharmonic Youth Orchestra in thumping renditions of much any kind of percussion instrument, in fact. Their the music of Argentine ﬁlm-score composer Luis Bacalov. song repertoire is equally eclectic, covering their own His masterly compositions fuse elements of classical, original tunes, jazz, pop, rock and roll, classics, and much popular, and religious music, and in recent years he has else besides. On Jul. 31 comes a marked change of also created works for chorus and orchestra, among pace with the Choir of King's College from Cambridge, which his“Misa Tango”, an adaptation of the classic England, one of the globe's great performing troupes in liturgical Mass to Argentine tango rhythms, is especially the world of classical music, moving to center stage. This well known. This is not like any music you have ever choir of truly venerable pedigree was established in the heard before, so just present yourself with the most 15th century during the reign of Henry VI. Having made wonderful gift you've ever given yourself and be there in hundreds of recordings and won countless awards, person. they'll bring the very best of their 500-year repertoire of classical compositions for you to linger over. The spotlight (Photos courtesy of the Taipei Philharmonic Foundation for will then be focused on The University of North Texas A Culture and Education) Cappella Choir on Aug. 1; this will be a special day for music lovers with a taste for compositions epitomizing Information north Texas, soul music, and Central/South American contemporary arrangements, a veritable whirlwind 2009 Taipei International Choral Festival musical tour through the Western hemisphere. Hold on 2009臺北國際合唱音樂節 to your seats! Times: Jul. 26-Aug. 2 Venue: National Concert Hall (21-1, Zhongshan S. Rd./中 Don't miss the big celebration on closing night, 山南路21-1號) / Tickets required Aug. 2, when a cavalcade of talent will hit the stage Tel: (02) 2773-3691 and bring the house down. The University of North Website: www.ticf.tw

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A Symphony Crossing Forty Years, a Gift in Mid-Summer Days 2009 Taipei Music Festival

his July and August, let the Taipei Symphony Orchestra（TSO, 臺北市立交響樂團）be Tyour accompany in a dream of splendid mid-summer nights, soothing the savage beast that has been aroused in you by hot and steamy climates with calming dulcet tones. Taipei becomes the Vienna of Asia, and the air alive with melodious, dancing musical notes.

12 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 13 1. The ballet Le Sacre du Printemps fuses music with dance. 2. The conductor for Romeo, Oh Puppet Romeo! TSO vs. Per Poc Company, Domonkos Heja, was winner of the Ninth Hungarian Television International Conductors' Competition. 3. There will be a special outdoor Chinese Valentine's Day concert at Daan Park.

The TSO has given countless performances in the 40 years since its founding. It's done it all – operas, ballets, dramatic theater, symphonies, chamber music, and more – much public praise flowing in the wake of each endeavor. To celebrate its 40th anniversary, at the beginning of this year the concert series was launched, with many top-flight ensembles from overseas invited to come and join in the happy celebrations. New vigor, new sounds, and a new atmosphere are being brought together in an environment of novel fusion of myriad musical shapes and creative artistry that will leave you spellbound. The TSO promises that the midsummer musical artistry you're about to experience will impress you, and you'll be“moved by the movements.”

Music can touch the soul, floating through the air into the city's many nooks and crannies to touch the lives of people in each neighborhood. Thus, on Jul. 18, the city government will stage the first ever“Culture in the Lanes – Community Concerts”(文化就在巷子裡—社區音樂會) series as part of its “Bringing Music to the People”policy initiative. In keeping with the TSO's 40th birthday celebrations, outdoor concerts will be held in 40 locations in neighborhood communities throughout the city, physically bringing the makers of musical beauty right to the homes of the city's denizens, adding a splash of beauty to their day. Taipei folk are passionate about their SPA experiences, which wash away the tensions of busy days, and the idea here is to immerse them right in their own neighborhoods with the silky and soothing aesthetics of music, encouraging the adoption of the musical experience as a regular part of daily life.

12 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 13 FEATURE

4. The 2009 TSO Youth Music Camp Concert will be led Another highlight of the music festival will be the“2009 by youthful rising-star conductor Benjamin Northey, TSO Youth Music Camp Concert”(2009 TSO 青少年音樂 principal conductor for the Melbourne Chamber Orchestra. 營音樂會). Ninety up and coming stars from the camp, all 5. Romeo, Oh Puppet Romeo! – TSO vs. Per Poc high school and junior high students, have been chosen Company is a collaborative work by the Taipei to perform. Leading them will be a youthful rising- Symphony Orchestra and the Per Poc Company star conductor Benjamin Northey, an Australian, who puppeteers. is a frequent guest conductor for the Australian state 6. A performance by the Taipei Symphony Orchestra outside Taipei's Zhongshan Hall. symphony orchestras and is the principal conductor for the Melbourne Chamber Orchestra. Adding even more luster to the event will be the presence of Su Tse-hung (蘇哲弘) on the viola; Su, now a second-year student at Taipei National University of the Arts (TNUA, 臺北藝術大學), was selected as a star of tomorrow at the 2008 youth camp.

Another unusual twist to the festival is the staging of Shakespeare's great romantic tragedy“Romeo and Juliet”in most unusual fashion. In“Romeo, Oh Puppet Romeo! – TSO vs. Per Poc Company”(偶！羅密歐北市交VS. Per Poc偶戲團), the TSO will perform the music from Prokoﬁev's“Romeo and Juliet”to accompany the staging of the tragedy by the talented puppets (and their handlers too of course) of the Per Poc Company. An extra bonus is that the TSO will be led by the brilliant Domonkos Heja as guest conductor, winner of the Ninth Hungarian Television International Conductors' Competition. You've never seen Shakespeare performed this way before, and as the TSO has promised, with the TSO's classic musical movements in accompaniment, this one-of-a-kind happening at the height of the summer is guaranteed to move you deeply.

If you think that this is a heck of a lot to do for a music festival, and that's all there is, you're quite wrong. This year, the Taipei Music Festival intends to take the passions and emotions of the stage and bring them out into local neighborhoods. Taipei is often described as a collection of communities, and for Chinese Valentine's Day, these communities will be knit together with their own concerts to recreate the metropolis as the grand “Taipei City Music Hall”(城市音樂廳). The romance of the stage will be brought to 12 neighborhood venues on the night of Aug. 26, kickoff at 19:30, in the“Chinese Valentine's Day Concerts – Music of the City”(七夕情人節戶外音樂會—城市音樂). Bring your special honey out for a most unusual night on the town, ﬁlled with the romance and the passions of music that moves.

(Photos courtesy of the Taipei Symphony Orchestra)

14 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 15 Information

2009 Taipei Music Festival Culture in the Lanes – Community Concerts 臺北市音樂季文化就在巷子裡—社區音樂會 Time: 19:00, Jul. 18 (Sat) – Jul. 19 (Sun) Venues: Taipei Zoo, Dahu Park in Neihu (free open-air concerts)

2009 TSO Youth Music Camp Concert 2009 TSO 青少年音樂營音樂會 Time: 19:30, Jul. 22 (Wed) Venue: Metropolitan Hall, Taipei Cultural Center Tickets: Go on sale July 8 at Taipei Cultural Center (limit of 2 tickets for each person, until sold out)

Crossover 40 Ⅲ : Romeo, Oh Puppet Romeo！– TSO vs. Per Poc Company 飛樂40 Ⅲ：偶！羅密歐北市交VS. Per Poc偶戲團 Time: 19:30, Aug. 14 (Fri) Venue: National Concert Hall (tickets sold at venue)

Chinese Valentine's Day Concerts – Taipei City Music Hall 七夕情人節戶外音樂會—城市音樂廳

Time: 19:30, Aug.26 (Wed) (free outdoor concerts) Venues: Datong District Office auditorium, Red House plaza, Taipei Story House, Dahu Park in Neihu, Xinyi Citizen Assembly Hall, Front Plaza of Taipei Arena, Xinyi New Life Square – Xiangti Boulevard Plaza, Nangang Software Park, underground concourse in front of Taipei Main Station, MRT Xin Beitou Station, MRT Shilin Station, Daan Park Note: Confirm the finalized schedules and venues on the TSO website before heading out.

Taipei Symphony Orchestra 臺北市立交響樂團

Add: 7F, 25, Sec. 3, Bade Rd. (八德路3段25號7樓) Tel: (02) 2578-6731, ext. 711, 724 (general inquiries) (02) 3393-9888 (tickets) Website: www.tso.taipei.gov.tw

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Performance Spaces that Echo with Music

o listen to the music of the best talent from around the world, whether it's an aural and visual extravaganza of the Tsenses you seek or something a little cooler, quieter, and calmer under blue or night skies before an alfresco stage, you'd best get to know some personal things about the city's ﬁnest music-performance venues.

Taipei Arena – A Colossus Stage Meant for the Giants of the Music Biz

Taipei Arena will be the main sporting venue for the it transforms into a sheet of ice for ice hockey. On the 2009 Taipei Deaflympics, and thus the main showcase second level, there is a flat concourse that is obstacle- venue for some of the world's finest athletes to show off free and fully accessible to the physically impaired and their world-beating skills. their companions. The spectator stands for the Annex ice-skating facility has a capacity of 800 people, and The facility has two levels underground and five the skating surface is able to handle 400 skaters. The above. The main hall can seat over 15,000 spectators, arena has precision temperature and humidity controls, and the stage can be arranged in three configurations ensuring comfort for both athletes and onlookers. to accommodate different needs – in essence, a long, medium, and up-close-and-intimate small version. Since Many of local and international showbiz and music the arena's opening in 2005, the venue has been used stars have to date strutted their stuff on the Taipei for large-scale concerts, performances, exhibitions, and Arena stage, including big-time names such as Taiwan various other events. The floor of the main hall has been songstress A-mei, Hong Kong star Andy Lau, England's designed so that it's temperature can be lowered over crossover soprano Sarah Brightman and so on. a 4-5 day period and with water spread on the surface, (Photos courtesy of the Taipei Arena)

16 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 17 1. Taipei Arena's Vice-hall has an international-standard ice rink for ice-hockey competitons. 2. Taipei Arena's main hall has seating for 15,000 spectators. 3. Acclaimed English soprano Sarah Brightman performed at Taipei Arena. 4. A performance in the grand plaza before the National Concert Hall 5. The National Concert Hall is an expression of classical Chinese palace-style architecture, an imposing and elegant sight. 6. The seating at the sumptuous National Concert Hall is arranged in three stepped tiers, with 2,070 plush seats. 7. The National Concert Hall's pipe organ, largest in Asia 8. Conductor Mariss Jansons leads the Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra.

National Concert Hall – Classical Pedigree, International Caliber

If you talk about the classic“music palace”of beloved for its superior acoustics; on one occasion when Taiwan, you cannot but think of the elegant National the Cleveland Symphony Orchestra was in town, four of Concert Hall. Gracing the expansive grounds of the its marquee players gave a special free performance National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall in the city's here just so they could enjoy the facility. The grand central area with its classical Chinese palace-style plaza that separates the National Concert Hall and twin, the National Theater, the two form the bedrock Theater often becomes the venue for outdoor concerts foundation of the performing arts in Taiwan. or broadcasts, a citizen favorite. On one notable occasion, over 60,000 music lovers came for a festival- The seating at the concert hall is arranged in three like broadcast of the Vienna Philharmonic, still one of stepped tiers, with 2,070 plush seats. The large stage the highlights of the city's history of musical experiences. can accommodate 150 to 200 players. The magnificent pipe organ, a hand-crafted masterpiece, was brought The quality of the National Concert Hall has made it in from Holland. At the time of the inauguration for the an attractive venue for the great talents of the musical twin palaces, this was the largest pipe organ in all Asia; it world, through the years drawing such creative genius is such a complex instrument that it took two full years to as the Three Tenors, Yo-Yo Ma, New York Philharmonic, manufacture and install it. San Francisco Symphony, Munich Symphony Orchestra, and the 12 Cellists of the Berlin Philharmonic. The The concert hall also has a smaller performance National Theater and Concert Hall have, appropriately, facility, the Recital Hall, appropriate for gatherings been called“the eyes of Taiwan,”a portal of the such as recitals and chamber music, on the first below- spirit projecting the soul and culture of the nation onto ground level. The space is also frequently used for music the world stage, encouraging creativity internally and symposiums, info meetings, and other events that allow representing Taiwan internationally. aficionados personal contact with their favorite players. (Photos courtesy of the Nation Theater．Concert Hall) This hall has a sterling reputation with these players,

16 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 17 ARCHITECTURE

9-11. The outdoor amphitheater at Daan Park

Let the Notes of Vibrant Musicality Dance through the Outdoors – The Daan Park Amphitheater and Huashan1914.Creative Park

If swaying to the music out in the fresh air while being accommodated in a venue surrounded with soothing, swished by gentle breezes, two city spots notably meet tension-dissipating flowers and plants. You'll feel that the your highest expectations – the Daan Park Amphitheater rhythms of the music have been synchronized with the (大安森林公園露天音樂臺) and Huashan1914.Creative pulses of nature. Park (華山創意文化園區). A number of structures are located on the site of Daan Park was formally opened to the public in 1994. Huashan1914.Creative Park, a heritage site that once The carefully selected plants and trees have since grown served as a brewery site for the old Taiwan Wine and to maturity, creating a luxuriant forest and garden Tobacco Monopoly Bureau (臺灣菸酒公賣局). To broaden oasis in the middle of the busy urban environment. the park's cultural and artistic range, the original brick- The amphitheater unobtrusively blends right in to the built workspaces, tower, administrative building, and four secret-garden ambiance. Its tapered roof is covered adjoining buildings have been seamlessly blended into in attractive metallic tubing, naturally sloping in such a the creative cultural industries showcase with flexible way that there is no sense of visual framing of the stage. indoor spaces. The ambience of the place evokes that The field of vision is wide open, the overall effect sleek, of Avignon, that justly famed French locale for refined, natural, and ultra-modern in feel. Over 900 can be avant-garde performances.

18 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 19 (Photos courtesy of Huashan1914.Creative Park, Chen, Hui-Ming)

There are a number of outdoor facilities, including the Huashan Theater (華山劇場), Forest Theater (森林 Information 劇場), and ebulliently named“Thousand Layer Wild Stage”(千層野台), allowing for wide-ranging choice Taipei Arena that meets most every need. The park was host to 臺北小巨蛋 the 2009 Urban Simple Life Festival (簡單生活節) this Add: 2, Sec. 4, Nanjing E. Rd. (南京東路4段2號) spring, with events staged at 16 locations around the Tel: (02) 2578-3536 facility, including four dedicated music stages, an Website: www.taipeiarena.com.tw area for music-related symposiums, and a carnival National Concert Hall of temporary shops and stalls selling nifty commercial 國家音樂廳 items. Lovers of the musical arts thrilled at the many- 中山南路號 splendored stimulations this festival event brought. Add: 21-1, Zhongshan S. Rd. ( 21-1 ) Tel: (02) 3393-9888 Website: www.ntch.edu.tw

12. A sparkling night-time artistic performance at Daan Park Amphitheater Huashan1914.Creative Park. 大安森林公園露天音樂臺 13. The architecture of the Huashan Theater at Huashan1914. Add: 1, Sec. 2, Xinsheng S. Rd. (新生南路2段1號) Creative Park. Tel: (02) 2700-3830 14-15. The range of the types of artistic performances at Huashan1914.Creative Park varies greatly. Website: www.parklight.tcg.gov.tw Huashan1914.Creative Park Discover Taipei has introduced other first-line music venues in past issues, such as Zhongshan Hall in issue 65, 華山創意文化園區 Taipei Fine Arts Museum in issue 66, Red House in issue Add: 1, Sec. 1, Bade Rd. (intersection of Zhongxiao E. Rd. 67, and Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall in issue 68. These and and Bade Rd.) (八德路1段1號) other editions can be accessed online at the website of Tel: (02) 2358-1914, ext. 509, 515, 599 the Taipei City Government, Department of Tourism and Information (english.taipei.gov.tw). Website: www.huashan1914.com

18 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 19 MARKETPLACE

An Arts and Culture Marketplace Fusing Music, Fine Food, and Culture Shida Night Market

he wonders, variety, and beauties of Taipei are on meander happily through. You'll much enjoy your Tthe clearest and most splendid display at the city's own explorations, for music, art, literary and culinary pulsating night-markets. One of the best is the Shida treasures are waiting to be found – by you. Happiness commercial district, located in one of the major culture is a day, or a night, digging deep into the Shida Night and education areas, with National Taiwan Normal Market treasure vault. University (國立臺灣師範大學), often shortened by locals to“Shida”(師大), at its center. Spreading out from Shida Park Outdoor Music Concerts this hub is the Shida Night Market (師大夜市), offering myriad delicious snacking eats, and a veritable forest In the early evenings each week from Friday of retail and commercial establishments of all kind. The through Sunday, you are likely to see a crowd grand total of all this is a neighbourhood feel, great gathering before the performance stage in the small convenience for satisfying life's needs, and a cultured park beside National Taiwan Normal University. They ambiance. This area is a favorite haunt for students are here to enjoy the random shows put on by young and foreigners, who choose to live here or frequently bands or various student musical groups. The shows visit, and has brought an attractive cosmopolitan air to are free, come one and come all, and you'll see the the night-market. enthusiastic displays of youthful zeal and mastering of skills. The joys and sorrows and knowledge and You'll find just about anything your tummy is intuitions of the young would flow forth through their hankering for here, and all at the reasonable prices. creative compositions. The variety abounds and quite truly astounds. There's cafes, chic clothing boutiques, live-music venues, The young musical crews gather here on holiday art shops, independent bookstores of distinguished nights, with the musical genres free-ranging. The locals refinement and character, second-hand bookstores, in the crowds interspersed with foreign faces, the mood art-exhibition spaces, and various foods from around always relaxed and festive, appreciating the music the world. On weekdays and holidays, the crowds without borders. Music making and music appreciation

20 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 21 may cross the boundary, and there's no better place India. On weekend evenings, be sure to get a seat at to sit down and let yourself sway in the gentle night Baba Kebaba Mediterranean Cuisine (巴巴卡巴巴) for breezes than right here, among like-minded friends superlative Turkish cuisine and scintillating gratis shows from near and far. of belly dancing. At Samdon Tibetan Restaurant (藏味館), you'll take a trip to the exotic ﬂavors of Xinjiang An Alley that Is an International Buffet in China, tastes rarely enjoyed outside that deep- –“International Food Street” inland place. Finally, at Thai Style Restaurant (泰風小館), lovers of the sensory delights of hot and sour will If you go to Shida Night Market and go down Lane find themselves in a palate-ial paradise. Each night 13 on Pucheng St. (浦城街13巷), you'll find yourself you'll find many a foreign expat or traveler on this on a short artery just about 100 meters long with 7 or “international alley,”sporting a happy smile, telling 8 international restaurants that are always bustling you you've come to the right place. with business. This is informally known by locals as “International Food Street”(異國美食街). Each eatery proudly sports the flag of its“native”country on its 1-2. Baba Kebaba Mediterranean Cuisine has great Turkish facade window. The moment you open the door, both food and also offers free live belly-dancing ﬂoor shows. the music and the wonderful smells of the homeland 3. Out of India will transport you directly to the sub-continent. waft your way to embrace you and invite you in. 4. Lane 13 of Pucheng Street, near Taiwan Normal University, is popularly called“International Food Street.” Fanguaner (飯館兒), the characters literally meaning 5. Thai Style Restaurants explored the taste delights of Thai “rice hall”and generally meaning“restaurant,” hot and sour. is run by a Korean family. It is one of Taipei's most 6. Authentic Xinjiang cuisine is served up at Samdon Tibetan popular Korean joints. Your proof of quality is the line- Restaurant. up of students at all times, wisely seeking top quality at low prices. At Out of India (印渡風情), the potato rolls and vegetable curries transport you right back into

20 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 21 MARKETPLACE

Cultured Artistry in the“Residence of Old Fragrances”

“Collect books to the height of a mountain, but read books as the water flows; the mass of mountain would block the view, but one can never ceases the water's flow”(藏書為山積，讀書如水流，山形有限度，水流無時休). This is the self-introduction of Jiu Xiang Ju (JXJ) Books (舊香居), a second-hand bookstore whose name translates literally as“Residence of Old Fragrances.”In what is a limited space, there seems to be a limitless supply of treasure finds awaiting for book lovers. The shop is a branch of a fine old family business now run by the second generation; the original outlet in the city's Muzha (木柵) area carries general books Cozy Showplace for the Arts along with calligraphy and paintings, while this outlet – Salt Peanuts Café/Factory in the Shida Night Market is dedicated to literature, philosophy, history, art, and other serious subjects, with The Salt Peanuts Café/Factory (鹹花生咖啡館) is titles in Chinese and other international languages. on Taishun St. (泰順街) in Shida Night Market.“Salt Peanuts”honors the classic Dizzy Gillespie bebop tune Wu Ya-hui (吳雅慧) manages the Shida branch. She recorded in 1942. This is a cozy getaway with a leisurely treasures time spent in France in the past studying and carefree air that instantly lifts the heart. This is also a design, and brings this experience, as well as a café that is a cut above most cafes you know, bringing keen eye for influences around her, to the unique cultured elegance to the food and drink experience managerial style and love of the printed word that is with its role as an exhibition and performance space evident in the bookstore and associated art gallery, for the arts. Salt Peanuts provides opportunity for young which she oversees in tandem with her father. At a artistic talent to show their creative experimentation to second-hand bookstore great erudition is needed in the audience without commercial pressure, and you'll effectively sourcing, selecting, and categorizing books. see everything from dynamic interactive multimedia Her organization methods makes the customer's search shows to static photo and painting exhibits. Opened and choice of books a comfortable experience. The for two years, Salt Peanuts has quickly emerged as shop is always full of people who obviously do a fair a venue of preference for local young creators. You bit of deep thinking, from refined professorial types as the patron, have no entry fee and no pressure through to bright-eyed and eager young first-year to buy – just enjoy. This is a place of fine foods finely students. There is a deliberately quaint and hoary complemented with fine arts, perfectly reflecting vintage to Jiu Xiang Ju, and the cultured air adds to the high cultural attainment of the surrounding Shida the cosmopolitan air that floats throughout Shida Night district, both exemplars of the best of Taipei. Market.

22 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 23 7-8. Salt Peanuts Café/Factory has good standard café fare and is also an art and culture display space. 9-11. Second-hand book specialist Jiu Xiang Ju (JXJ) Books has its own inimitable style, and is a favorite haunt of the educated and cultured book-lovers club. 12-13. UnderWorld is one of the premier venues in Taiwan for the underground music scene.

Creative Space for Musical Blast-Off – UnderWorld Information

If you are in the need to know just where it's at in the Shida Night Market – Transportation world of Taiwan underground music, the UnderWorld 師大夜市—交通資訊 is where you must visit. This is one of Taipei's oldest MRT: Take the Xindian Line to Taipower Building Station, and most venerable and distinguished venues for take Exit No. 3, and walk a short distance along Shida Rd. musical performance. Though it has gone through Bus: Take bus No. 15, 18, 235, 278, 295, Heping Main many a permutation, one thing has always held true – Line, 662, 663, 672, 74, or 907 along Heping E. Rd. management's steadfast commitment to its role as a to the National Taiwan Normal University 1 stop. showcase venue for underground talent. Renowned local talent that has since hit the record charts, such Salt Peanuts Café/Factory as the singer Deserts Zhang (張懸) and groups like 鹹花生咖啡館/展廠 1976 (1976樂團) and Chairman (董事長樂團), strutted Add: 23, Lane 60, Taishun St. (泰順街60巷23號) their early-days stuff right in this spot before recorded Tel: (02) 2368-1019 discovery. Jiu Xiang Ju (JXJ) Books The UnderWorld is small in terms of space, and 舊香居 limited in the size of its stage and the sophistication Add: 1F, 81, Longquan St. (龍泉街81號1樓) of its sound and lighting facilities. But it is expansive Tel: (02) 2368-0576 in heart and in the impact it has on the island's music UnderWorld scene. Sit yourself down in this local music mecca and 地下社會 you'll feel the passion. The heated love for creative Add: B1, 45, Shida Rd. (師大路45號B1) musical experimentation not just from the singers and Tel: (02) 2369-0103 the bands, but from the devoted music fans as well.

Please refer to the map provided on p.66.

22 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 23 FOOD

24 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 25 1. Shuiguobo's house-invented“ice cake” 2. In its“Half-Old Fruit Ice,”Shuiguobo features the fresh native fruits which Taiwan is famed for. 3. The Shuiguobo interior is decorated with intriguing paraphernalia that hearkens back to the Taiwan of an earlier day.

For a Yummy Dose of Colorful Creativity, Eat Taipei’s Summertime Ice Treats!

ere's a secret that's no secret – high summer is Ha good time to eat ice treats. And here in the hot and steamy sauna of summer-time Taipei, the yummiest ice treats are myriad. You'll find them sold Shuiguibo everywhere, a result in competitors always trying to – Old-Style Flavorings, Hard to Forget “ ” come up with the hot new flavor that will bring Shuiguibo (水龜伯古早味), whose full Chinese name customers flocking, especially for their shaved-ice tantalizingly translates as“Uncle Water Turtle's Old offerings. The flavor-selection is both mind-boggling Style Flavors,”（note: Water turtle is an old-style water and a delight to explore. Some sell favorite old-style warmer made of leather in which hot water is filled to flavors, some sell newfangled creations, and most keep body warm.）is a well-known local name. The sell a scrumpdillyicious mix of the two. A list of old- original outlet is on Taipei's Shipai (石牌) area, and two time favorite flavorings for this long-beloved snack years ago an outlet in the Gongguan (公館) area was 仙草 would have to include grass jelly ( ), douhua or opened. The interior is a hoot, with Taiwan records and 豆花 tofu pudding ( ), candied fruits, taro balls, tapioca old posters from 50 years ago used as decorations. balls, and banana oil. The hottest of the newfangled The tables and round stools are all made of wood, approaches is to mix fruits and ice-cream along with exactly as you would have found way back, and the sweet waffle cone, chocolate, and fruit sauces and distinctive pottery bowls are even more fun. The many- jams. This is not as calorie-heavy as you might think, flavored ice treats, however, come in both traditional and if you need a choice, sellers are rolling out ice- and innovative modern variety. You'll have to make cream with healthy ingredients as well. This summer your way through a menu of many tens of choices, you may watch the creative juices flow in Taipei while and take a note that the treats here are fresh, with all you cool yourself down with the inventive results! ingredients prepared by the shop itself.

So, you're here now at Shuiguibo – what do you want to eat？ To celebrate his daughters' birthdays, the boss has come up with a ﬁnger-licking idea called the “Half-Old Ice Pie”(半舊冰派). It tastes great, and the name is much more attractive in Chinese than English since the“old”means“traditional.”It is a cake with layers of ice ﬂavored with banana oil on the bottom. The center layer is ice-cream, and the top layer is a sweet buffet of fruit, red bean, candy, and cookie – and there're even some whistle candies. Every bite of this pie is a completely different taste experience, each one a summertime cool-down thrill.

24 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 25 FOOD

In the Gongguan area, where National Taiwan Emei Iced Fruit House University is located, there are many foreign students, – 100 Flavors, Multi-Colored Originality and the owner says that their favorite treat at his shop is the“Half-Old Fruit Ice”(半舊水果冰) because In the biz just under 10 years now, the married it features the fresh native fruits that this sub-tropical couple that run“Emei Iced Fruit House”(峨嵋冰果 island is famed for. Another 室) in Ximending (西門町) take great pride in the fact re c o m m e n d e d d e l i g h t that they themselves have created all the sauces and is the newly unveiled pastes and all are made fresh on-site. Their popularity “Double Celestials relies on both taste and eye-catching presentation, for with Milk”(雙仙鬧奶), their target is the young crowd. the two celestial Emei has over 100 ice-treat menu selections. beings refer to light- The waffle-cone series, with its distinctive flavors, is colored almond especially popular with students. The“Glittering Star” and dark-colored (星球) and“Matching Hearts”(心心相映) selections grass jelly. These are are recommended by the owners and, indeed, their a d d e d t o s h a v e d inventiveness has made them very popular. With the ice with brown sugar “Glittering Star,”you get Hami melon (cantaloupe) a n d c o n d e n s e d m i l k and watermelon, with condensed milk poured over, and a heaping of chewy mango ice-cream – the customers' favorite – and hand-crafted glutinous rice-flour colored chocolate rice on top of that. Then presto, dumplings called tangyuan (湯圓). Whatever you you're indeed looking at a glittering rounded celestial like best, old or new or a sprinkling of both, inventive body!“Matching Hearts”has been unveiled just this Shuiguibo has just what you need this summer. year, a devilishly gooey confection that sees mango sauce and strawberry sauce married, with chocolate Shuiguibo 水龜伯古早味 crisp added for a brittle texture and sweet and chewy Add: 15, Alley 1, Lane 78, Sec. 4, Roosevelt Rd. star-shaped gumdrops for even more contrast. As (羅斯福路4段78巷1弄15號) you can tell, your ﬂavor-and-sensation trip will be very Tel: (02) 2367-6696 special. Young folk are always in the chase for the newest fashion to express their individuality, and you'll Please refer to the map provided on p.66. frequently see some of the young idols lined up here for an Emei ﬁx.

Unlike most sellers of ice treats, Emei offers all of its confections in three different sizes, so customers can choose the portion that best suits their mood of the moment.

Emei Iced Fruit House 峨嵋冰果室 Add: 4, Emei St. (inside market plaza) (峨嵋街4號商場內) Tel: (02) 2388-0588

4. Shuiguobo's new-treat announcement for this summer is “Double Celestial with Milk,” featuring light-colored almond and dark-colored grass jelly. 5-6. Emei Iced Fruit House's “Glittering Stars”and “Matching Hearts”ice- confections are especially popular with the students.

26 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 27 The Freshest of Ice Treats – Jason's Fruits Store

The first to use the“urban orchard”concept here in the metropolis, Jason's Fruits Store (百菓園) is surpassingly particular about the freshness of its fruit choices. No need for you to traipse out into the countryside to assure yourself of a top-quality banquet of fruits, fruit juices, and fruity ice treats. Want a couple of impeccable recommendations to Jason's“cut above the rest”quality？In 2005, both former American president Bill Clinton and American singer Norah Jones were in town visiting, and both stopped in here, knowing that Taiwan's fruits are top-notch, and ﬁnding that this is a good place in town to go treats-sampling.

Jason's ice treats are all self-invented, all using the store's own produce. Try the“Snowy Land Ice-Cream” (雪地冰淇淋), featuring Hami melon (cantaloupe), Compositions Built on the Most Natural watermelon, and seasonal fruits heaped in a mound Ingredients – Tic-Tac-Toe and topped with home-made fruit-ﬂavored ice-cream. This is then drenched in turn with home-made fruity According to the owner of“Tic-Tac-Toe Italian Ice- plum sauce that bring just a hint of sweet and sour Cream”(Tic-Tac-Toe義大利冰淇淋), a fellow surnamed teasing. All who try it are instantly addicted. Chen (陳), it doesn't matter where you locate your shop. All that matters is if your goods are good. To In the“Fruit Bao Bao”(水果抱抱), you'll find a make ice treats with high quality, you have to start veritable fruit salad of seasonal produce, brought in with understanding the nature and character of the direct from the orchards and whipped up in ice-treat ingredients. You also have to be willing to discard form in a flash by the Jason's folk to seal in freshness. failed experiments and trials. It is only with this attitude Capped with flavor-packed sauce crafted in-house, that you can distinguish yourself in the market. your taste-buds will be tickled silly.

At all times holding fast to this core belief, the taste The fame of“Jason's Fruits Store”has even spread of each of Tic-Tac-Toe's ice-creams is quite distinctive. to Japan, and Japanese tourists constantly make their For example, the cherries in“Spirits Marinade Cherry way down lanes in search of the Taiwan fruit treats, Ice-Cream”(酒漬櫻桃冰淇淋), as the name states, which they've heard are better and cheaper than are first steeped in spirits and then mashed and back home. Jason's 18 years of success have been mixed into the ice-cream. The result is a heady but built on hard work and consistancy, and the store not overpowering aroma and taste. The“Tiramusu has also done fine service for the island in foreign Ice-Cream”(提拉米蘇冰淇淋) is equally classy and relationships too. inventive, with Italian Mascarpone cheese blended into house-created coffee liqueur. The result here is Jason's Fruits Store 百園 a silky texture with a tang. There are also many other 菓 distinguished“successful experiments”to explore with Add: 2, Alley 7, Lane 100, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd. (敦化南路1段100巷7弄2號) the palate, such as“Sunkist Ice-Cream”(香吉士冰淇 Tel: (02) 2772-2010 淋) and“Pomelo Ice-Cream”(柚子冰淇淋), all of which are owner Chen's proud invention. 7. The owner of Tic-Tac-Toe Chen also points your attention to extra-healthy Italian Ice-Cream is the proud inventor of the shop's ice-cream ﬂavorings that regular customers such as a delicious Tiramisu, Sunkist, group of hospital administrators come in for, such as and Pomelo ice-cream corallina, Anosa brown sugar, Chinese red date, and treats. longan. For a moderate money outlay, you receive the 8. The“Fruit Bao Bao”at Jason's richest return in ﬂavor – and low in calories too! Fruits Store contains a veritable Tic-Tac-Toe Italian Ice-Cream fruit salad of Tic-Tac-Toe義大利冰淇淋 the freshest in-season Add: 16, Jiankang Rd. (健康路16號) produce from Tel: (02) 2546-6052 the island's orchards. 26 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 27 FOOD In Taipei, Music in All Styles Is Yours for the Asking

f what you need for a happy fix is a place with fine food and a stage up close with live preformances, know that ITaipei is a“city of music,”and what you need is what you'll get. In the next few pages, we'll be rolling back the curtain on a number of select restaurants of distinctive style that offer the best in live music. Is it easygoing jazz you desire？Blues？Or even Italian opera？Perhaps some Taiwan pop, performed by some of the island's hottest singers？ There's this and much else besides on the menu at these upscale locales, where“master chefs”of music concoct fulfilling musical entrees that will leave you sated and very pleased with yourself.

EZ5 Live House – Where Taiwan's Famous Singers Live It Up, Live

EZ5 Live House, on Anhe Rd., has been a shining light on the nightlife scene for 19 years. This is a favorite club stage for Taiwan's famous singers. You'll hear rock and roll, jazz, Chinese tunes, English tunes, and all the hot Mandarin and Taiwanese pop hits on the island. There's much to attract the music lover, and you'll ﬁnd the crowds a harmonious mix of locals and foreigners. EZ5 isn't big, but it ain't small either – just the right size to bring stage and singers up close and intimate with fans, who each feel they are getting their own personalized private performance. This feeling is heightened with the tradition of singers accepting song requests. Whether a lusty and head-banging tune or a gentle ballad, the audience sways and rocks as one, the experience exhilarating, any of life's troubles left behind at the door, only pleasant feelings permitted inside.

The main interior-decor theme at EZ5 is dark-brown rustic timber. The place is frequently packed to the rafters. The hottest stars and most in-demand club singers are proud to say they've performed here, including Tiger Huang (黃小琥), Julia Peng (彭佳慧), and an endless parade of stars and starlets from the TV Show called“Million Star.”This is one of Taipei's hottest tickets, so it is best to phone and book your seats in advance. The club also has a ﬁne kitchen, with perhaps the most popular and exotic dish of the house, eel tempura (炸鰻魚甜不辣), which has a distinctive house ﬂavor you'll not likely be able to relish anywhere else. Another hot dish – though not hot as in spicy – is the crispy fried chicken wings (酥脆炸雞翅), a true treat for the tongue.

At EZ5 both the stars and the audience come for the same thing – a cozy night out. Come on out for the EZ5 Live House next mini-concert. Add: 211, Sec. 2, Anhe Rd. (安和路2段211號) Tel: (02) 2738-3995

28 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 29 For Good Jazz, Remember the Name “Capone's”

Capone's Italian Restaurant, a getaway of upscale and meticulously planned trappings, opened its doors in 1997. The owner is Swiss, who continued the tradition of authentic Italian cuisine with live international musical artists performing after taking over the restaurant four years ago. Lisa, one of the managers, informs us that every Tuesday night through Sunday night, a good-quality international band is featured, with a new group brought in every two months. This ensures an ever-changing array of styles and genres that will keep customers coming back. Whether you've got a meal or a drink in mind, Capone's offers a relaxed environment that you want to put yourself in for a night of easy-listening entertainment.

Capone's arrangement and selection of music are rather unique. In addition to the main musical house- style, jazz, Tuesdays are the Italian opera night, and Fridays are ﬁlled to bursting with the energy of earthy, down-home blues and swing dance. With Sunday brunch, you're treated to something quite different, soothing chanson/piano accompaniment.

All this musicality will no doubt get you feeling hungry, so note that beyond the splendid Sunday brunch, the restaurant offers a tantalizing line-up of fine foods as well. A favorite customer choice is the Italian seafood and cuttlefish pasta, with imported cuttlefish ink mixed into the noodles, complemented with a bounty of the freshest ingredients. Also note that among the many ﬁne authentic-Italian selections from the kitchen is a mouth-watering array of yummy appetizers. Good jazz plus good food always brings a good night out.

Capone's Italian Restaurant 卡邦義大利餐廳 Add: 312, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd. (忠孝東路4段312號) Tel: (02) 2773-3782

1. EZ5 is extremely popular with Taiwan's big pop singers as an alternate stage. 2. EZ5's delectable eel tempura. 3. All local music-lovers know that popular Tiger Huang and her powerful voice are EZ5 fixtures. 4-5. Capone's regularly flies in top talent from overseas for its live stage acts. 6. A specialty of the Italian chef at Capone's is seafood and cuttlefish Italian pasta. 7. Among the many fine authentic-Italian selections from the kitchen is a mouth-watering array of yummy appetizers.

28 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 29 FOOD

Young Music Buffs Love NASSAS – The Party House

Situated on Sec. 4 of Roosevelt Rd., NASSAS – The Party House is located on the second floor of the National Taiwan University's Second Student Activity Center (臺灣大學第二學生活動中心). It is a restaurant that strives for a distinctive American ﬂavor. The bright, lively, spacious interior is decorated with seats in bright pastel red and sapphire blue, drawing waves upon waves of young students seeking a getaway from their home, classroom, and library.

NASSAS has live band performances scheduled on five days each week. The majority are students or, at the least, amateur groups. The management sees its role as providing a stage and opportunity for new talent, and the musical preference is simple and straightforward – brisk and fast is best, in keeping with the zest for life and bubbling energy so central to young life. Staff say that many of the bands in fact already have a strong fan base that will follow them to different venues. The restaurant is also set up to cater specifically to the tastes of the young crowd, and is a thumping spot for students' birthday parties. The food is essentially American, the most popular menu items being the burger steak with cheese, charcoal barbecued pork spare ribs, and crispy fries. During the afternoon-tea period, music somewhat gentler than the norm is pumped in, and many overseas students will come in at this time for a meal.

NASSAS – The Party House Add: 2F, 85, Sec. 4, Roosevelt Rd. (羅斯福路4段85號2樓) Tel: (02) 3365-2373

8. NASSAS – The Party House is a favorite haunt with students, who come to eat together and take in the live student bands. 9-10. NASSAS serves up hearty American fare. 11. NASSAS has live band performances.

30 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 31 Trader Vic's

Trader Vic's, with its iconic South Pacific Islands theme, was established by American Victor Jules Bergeron, in 1934. Taipei's Trader Vic's continues in the exotic and romantic Tahiti tradition complemented by the best of the world's cuisines. In the bar area, you'll enjoy the decorative ﬂourishes such as the large aquarium, shells, rudders and oars, and ﬁshnets, which transport you at once to a calm and tranquil place, far away from the bustle of the big city.

Come to Trader Vic's on a Friday night and you'll be serenaded with live Latin jazz. The dulcet tones embrace you and wash all your stresses and troubles away, assisted by the tender tones of a professional Paraguayan songstress. Drifting to a South Seas land with Latin mystique, you'll feel as if you are sitting by an azure sea under swaying palms, as you sway to the music and savor your hearty repast. At other times, you'll be swept up in a wave of warm nostalgia for the good old days when classic popular English tunes play. In terms of the catch of the day, Trader Vic's prides itself on a menu that captures the best catch from the cuisines aroud the world, and it's not all seafood – landlubbers fare just as well. Meat, fish, and fowl are slowly roasted in Polynesian-style in the Trader's famed Chinese wood-ﬁred stoves, in true roti tradition, without ever being exposed to an open ﬂame.

Romano's Macaroni Grill is an outlet of a well-known American chain that is part of the same group which Trader Vic's belongs to. Classic Italian fare is the reason for being here, and from Wednesday through Sunday from 19:00 to 21:00, you are served up a special treat. Students and teachers majoring in music are brought in to regale and educate you on the intricate beauties of Italian songs. The stage is not static; performances move around the floor to give patrons sensual intimacy with the theatricality of classic Italian musical expression. And nothing is warmer and more intimate than the Romano's tradition of singing you or loved ones a Happy Birthday song in dramatic operatic style, something you likely will never forget.

Trader Vic's 偉克商人餐廳 Add: 7F, 135, Sec. 3, Minsheng E. Rd. (民生東路3段135號7F) Tel: (02) 2545-9999 Romano's Macaroni Grill 義大利餐廳 Add: 22, Songshou Rd. (松壽路22號) Tel: (02) 2722-4567

12. Trader Vic's is a food and live music venue famed for its relaxed Polynesian surroundings. 13. Romano's Macaroni Grill delights patrons with its Italian opera performers moving among the crowd. 14-15. Trader Vic's menu is ecumenical, with the best in French creativity featured here.

30 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 31 LIVING IN TAIPEI

Power in Me! 21st Summer Deaﬂympics in Taipei 2009

thletics is our way of communicating with nature, exploring the limits of our physical and spiritual selves. The Amessage to be proclaimed by the many world-class athletes at this year's Deaflympics, which is being staged in Taipei this September, is“Power in me!”It takes great spiritual and physical power to overcome the limitations of a world without any sound, and these athletes are a source of great inspiration to us all. This is the first time that the Deaflympics is being held in Asia, and this is the largest-scale and most important sport game ever held in Taiwan.

To properly roll out the red carpet for a gathering of such prestige, the Foundation of the Taipei Deaflympics Organizing Committee (臺北聽障奧林匹克運動會籌備委員會基金會) has set up a detailed program of stimulating events as part of the“Deaflympics Month of the Arts”(聽障奧運藝術月), which will run from Aug. 8 through Aug. 30. The highly respected playwright and theater/movie director Stan Lai (賴聲川) is invited as an artistic director for the celebration. “Hard”athletics and“soft”performing arts are being brought together under the spotlight to perform as a duo, firing up excitement for the big Deaflympics meet, and pumping inspirational power through a surge of “artistic power.”

32 Discover Taipei The month of artistic revelry will be kicked off on Aug. 8 with the“glory of Taiwan”(臺灣之光), songstress A-mei (張惠妹), who is a member of the island's Puyuma tribe (卑南族) . Known for her love of singing, A-mei has the tribe's quintessential simplicity and sincerity, as well as the quintessential high, sonorous voice. She has been a star for many years, and has graced stages in many lands, near and far. A-mei, accompanied by singers from other tribes of Taiwan, will bring the spirit of aboriginal culture and their annual harvest festival traditions to the Deaflympics stage. She'll lead athletes and audiences in asking for their blessings, and speciﬁcally inviting the athletes to come up into the spotlight and take center stage in the celebrations. 1 The Taipei Arena's stage will be festooned with symbols and totems of the tribal peoples, and it is hoped that their spirit and determination will inspire the athletes, just as the athletes' impressive will and endurance inspires the people of Taiwan, and the world.

In addition to the lovely performance of the Taiwan aboriginal princess of song, other superlative musical acts have been booked. The line-up includes the peculiar and compelling Blue Man Group from the US, which has gained such attention for their bizarre and iconoclastic ways. With their wide-eyed synchronized antics, out-of- this-world makeup and costumes, giant-sized multimedia special effects and also impressive musical compositions, they will undoubtedly send their audience into a frenzy of delight. During their time here for Deaﬂympics Month of Art, they will give seven performances, from Aug. 19 to Aug. 23. If you've never seen the frenetic, pulsating show these 2 strange men from outer space put on before, their“How to Be a MegaStar Tour 2.1”(如何成為超級巨星巡迴演出2.1) this summer may well be your once-in-this-world chance, so don't miss out.

Have you ever heard of the“Peacock Princess”(孔雀公主), Yang Liping (楊麗萍)？Yang is a member of the Dai tribe(傣族) , in China's Yunnan province, and for decades she has been impressing audiences once at home, and now abroad, with her stylized dance choreography. She incorporates elements of her tribe's dance traditions along with elements from other peoples in her homeland, and her signature dance, the“Spirit of the Peacock”(雀之靈), has long been a crowd favorite. Yang is coming to Taiwan to grace the stage in the lead-up to the Deaﬂympics, and will be performing on the nights of Aug. 29 to Aug. 30. She has altered her classic“Spirit of the Peacock”routine to 3 incorporate the beauties of sign language, expressing the 1. Another highlight of the Deaflympics Month of the Arts will be spectacular shows put on by the cosmos- power of unspoken communication between one person renowned Blue Man Group. “ and another. Her dance and music production, Dynamic 2. China's Dynamic Yunnan has an ensemble of over 60 Yunnan ”(雲南映象), has an ensemble of 60 folk performers folk performers from the home area. brought from Yunnan. With this creation, Yang's desire is 3. Mayor Hau (center), A-mei (far right), Deaflympics to bring audiences into closer intimacy with“the good promoter along with other singers, pose at the ofﬁcial 2009 Taipei Deaflympics Month of the Arts press ” earth and inspire them with the power and resilience of conference.

Discover Taipei 33 LIVING IN TAIPEI

5 6 4. The Ming Hwa Yuan troupe's outdoor show –“Legend of the White Snake – Global Classic Edition” 5. Large-scale and primal will be the display put on by dance troupe Dynamic Yunnan at the Taipei Deaﬂympics Month of the Arts. 6. Beloved Taiwan songstress A-mei (center) will put on her Ab-“Original” Band Concert at the Deaﬂympics Month of the Arts.

people who live in harmony with the earth. All shows by A-mei, the Blue Man Group, and Yang Liping will be at the Taipei Arena, located conveniently right in the center of the city.

The Deaflympics Month of Art will feature one performance staged outdoors. This will be by the legendary Ming Hwa Yuan Taiwanese Opera Troupe (明華園), which will thrill puppetry aficionados with its legendary production of that age-old Chinese tale“The Legend of the White Snake”(白蛇傳). To meet the powerful expectations that have arisen with the staging of such a large-scale international sporting competition, the troupe has taken the classic out of its storage chest and revamped it, unveiling the“Legend of the White Snake – Global Classic Edition”(超炫白蛇傳─ 全球經典版), creating an“Eastern Opera”(東方歌劇) extravaganza that can compete favorably in the West. The newest concepts and most advanced techniques have been incorporated into an old story that is already riveting. Perhaps you will be present to see the curtain raised on the first Eastern classic of the new millennium; for information on tickets and other details, visit the official Taipei Deaflympics website.

Racing in hard on the heels of the Deaflympics Month of the Arts will be the Deaflympics themselves. Running from Sep. 5 through Sep. 15, over 4,000 hearing-challenged athletes from 101 countries will be here to compete for glory in 20 sporting categories. Events will be held across Taipei and throughout the surrounding regions, including Taipei County, Taoyuan County, Hsinchu County, and other locations. The main way to show your support for what the Deaflympics is trying to achieve is of course to watch the competitions, either in person at the venues, or on TV. But another way is to go out to Taipei Arena or the first-floor lobby at Taipei City Hall to buy some of the nifty Deaflympics merchandise.“Power in Me”items stress the athletes' fearless spirit and silent power;“Dynamic Deaflympics”items express the power of life, with sophisticated contours and vivid colors;“Peace & Love”items incorporate the lively mascots with attractive everyday items; and“Taipei Pa Pa Go”items promote tourism to international friends using images of the beauty of this friendly city.

34 Discover Taipei 【 Taipei Deaﬂympics Month of the Arts Program】

19:30, Aug. 8, A-mei – Ab-“Original” Band Concert 19:30, Aug. 19 – Aug. 23, The Blue Man Group 14:30, Aug. 22 – Aug. 23, The Blue Man Group 19:30, Aug. 29 – Aug. 30, Large-Scale Primal Song and Dance – Dynamic Yunnan Venue: Taipei Arena Tickets: Visit www.2009deaflympics.org, through ERA ticketing system online at www.ticket.com.tw, and at 7-Eleven ibon kiosks throughout Taiwan or online at www.ibon.com Outdoor Performance: For details on the Ming Hwa Yuan troupe's outdoor show –“Legend of the White Snake – Global Classic Edition,” visit the official Deaflympics website.

【 Foundation of the Taipei Deaﬂympics Organizing Committee 】

Tel: (02) 2577-2009 Website: www.2009deaﬂympics.org

【 Taipei Arena 】

Tel: (02) 2578-3536 Add: 2, Sec. 4, Nanjing E. Rd. (南京東路4段2號)

9 7-9. Some of the highly original promotional items that have been created for the 2009 Taipei Deaﬂympics.

(Photos courtesy of Foundation of the Taipei Deaﬂympics Organizing Committee)

Discover Taipei 35 LIVING IN TAIPEI

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2009 Taipei Hotel Festival The City’s Fine Inns Take the Midsummer Stage!

hether looking for family fun, or a romantic getaway for two, or time away from the hubbub of home with good Wfriends, this city has just the type of accommodation you've got in mind, offering you top-ﬂight facilities and service. Building on the success of the 2008 Taipei Hotel Festival—My Taipei Hotel, My Home (2008臺北旅館節—臺北旅館我的家), this year the city government is staging the 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival—Some major events of Taipei's Fine Inns (2009臺北旅館節—臺北好棧) will be shifted to Taichung, giving more city hotels in Taipei the chance to join in on the fun. Without a doubt, folks from central and southern Taiwan, foreign friends from near and far will all be attached to this festival, accompanied with fabulous events, spending some quality vacation time here.

This year, beyond the showcasing of the distinctive character of different hotels and bringing together these hotels with enterprises in related ﬁelds in grand alliance, the festival will also be coordinated with large-scale events going on around the island, including the World Games in Kaohsiung in July, and the Deaﬂympics in Taipei in September. A series of attractive events and tour packages are being offered to draw both athletes and spectators from overseas to Taiwan to try out and linger in Taipei's quality hotels and its unique charm.

36 Discover Taipei The festival will stretch over a full month's time, from On the website, you'll also ﬁnd a wonderful treasure- Jul. 10 to Aug.10. It will open with a bang on Jul. 10, vault of preferential offers from hotels in the“Preferential with preferential activities both online and at each C o u p o n D o w n l o a d s ” ( 優惠券下載 ) s e c t i o n , o n hotel. On Jul. 19 comes the event“Let's All Go to Taipei accommodations, spa facilities, food and drink, and and Stay the Night”(逗陣來臺北宿一晚) at the Tiger other items. There's also a“popular hits”billboard that City shopping complex in Taichung. On the activity- will keep online visitors updated on which of the hotel stuffed ticket will be such promotional attractions as an coupons are the hottest draws. In the“Online Room appearance by the festival's promoter Zhang Qin-yan Reservations Area”(網路訂房專區), you can connect (張沁妍), star of the hit Taiwan movie“Cape No. 7”(海 with those hotels participating in this festival; or you can 角七號), and introduction of Taipei hotels' ten hottest also visit Taiwan's EZ Travel website (易遊網), and head items. On the same day, there will also be special draws to the“2009 Taipei Hotel Festival Room Reservations for plane tickets and luggage items as well as a set- Section”(2009臺北旅館節訂房專區). Other golden time“mad scramble”for preferential accommodation coupons. Then on Jul. 21, the spotlight will be shining on the central lobby of Taipei City Hall where the city government will host the“Taipei's Fine Inns Kickoff Press Conference”(臺北好棧行前記者會), giving the public a clear idea of the events and goals of this year's festival.

Jul. 25 and 26 are two of the festival's biggest days for activities, together constituting the“Taipei's Fine Inns General Mobilization”(臺北好棧總動員). To be staged at Hall 2 of the World Trade Center Taichung, the events are supposed to stimulate a crescendo of interest in the festival. There will be cheerleading squads, a runway show highlighting top-10 hottest hotel items, a showcase of kitchen talent focused on hotels' afternoon-tea delicacies, a show highlighting hotels' special attractions and characteristics, the awarding of prizes, and prize draws. Adding to these rip-roaring shows and flavorful 3 competitions will be a promotional market chock-full 4 of kiosks with Taipei hotel staff offering promotional coupons, dining coupons, tour-package coupons, and others. These will be partnered up with select preferential accommodation-and-beverage coupons and with at least three types of travel packages, for half-day, one- day, and 2-day travel. Whatever you want, there will undoubtedly be a package combo available that fits you just right.

A dedicated Chinese/English website has also been established for the festival, with complementary online activities such as the“Taipei Fine Inns You Think Must Visit in Your Lifetime”(你認為一生一定要住的臺北好棧) online voting, in which the public gets to choose their favorite hotels in 10 categories, such as“Your Favorite Hotel for Wintertime Spa Outings”(你冬天最想泡湯的旅館) 1. The lobby of 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival participant, Hotel and“The Hotel You Think Travelers from Overseas Best Eight Zone Love to Stay At”(你認為外國遊客最愛住的旅館). A grand 2. Lodgings at 2009 Taipei Hotel festival participant, Cosmos Hotel champion will then be chosen from the 10 winners. In 3. Accommodations at the Landis Resort Yangmingshan, “ ” 十大旅館最 the special Top-10 Hottest Hotel Items ( another participating hotel in the 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival 夯物品 ), balloting people can identify the things they 4. A view of Taipei Wish Hotel, a participant in this year's Taipei most like to pilfer, which will then be put on display with Hotel Festival models in a tongue-in-cheek runway show.

Discover Taipei 37 LIVING IN TAIPEI

treasure nuggets to be found on the website are special preferential travel-package deals from the local high-speed rail operator and Kuo-Kuang Motor Transport Co.

The other very special promotional item being pushed as a part of the festival is“Taipei Fine Inns Passport”(臺北好棧護照), available online or when purchasing packages in person at festival exhibitions. It gives you access to preferential deals from a number of hotels on accommodations, spa facilities, dining, and from 20 enterprises on sightseeing spots, musical performances, cultural performances, and other attractions.

5 The festival organizer, the city government's Department of Information and Tourism, is publishing the 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival handbook (Taipei Fine Inns Passport) in order to help you with all the particulars you need on events and activities, which includes all the participating hotels, available travel tours, and the city's sightseeing taxis. The booklet will also be stuffed with preferential-discount coupons from all the participating hotels. You can pick up your copy at the citizen's service center (市民服務組) on the first floor of Taipei City Hall, at any of the 8 visitor information centers run by the city government, at some MRT stations in Taipei and Kaohsiung, at 8 HSR (High Speed Rail) stations, at some Kuo-Kuang Motor stations, at retail spots of ezTravel, of course at all the participating hotels, and various other locations. The handbooks are free, but get yours early, for demand is always very high and supply ample but finite.

6 Though work is of course always going on in this area, it is hoped that the 2009 Taipei Hotel festival will play a strong role in stimulating the most positive experience for the customer when visiting various types of accommodations here. The people in Taiwan take great pride in their tradition of warm hospitality, and the staff and owners of the hotels are no different, seeking to treat all their guests like family. For the guest from overseas already living in Taiwan or in the region for exploration, the red carpet is being rolled out for you at the hotels, and a hearty welcome awaits during the festival, and at other times too.

For more details on 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival activities, visit the festival website (www.taipeihotel.tw) or dial the Taipei Citizen Hotline (1999).

5. The passport for the 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival 6-7. A carnival approach is taken for the Taipei Hotel Festival, with an emperor's buffet of activities staged. 8. The Dandy Hotel is one of the many fine facilities participating in 7 the 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival. 9. The upscale dining utensils used at the refined Cosmos Hotel 10. Hotel Sense, another of the fine hotels you might choose from in the 2009 Taipei Hotel Festival

38 Discover Taipei 8 9 10

【2009 Taipei Hotel Festival – Ofﬁcial Website】

Contents: Preferential activities, tour packages, preferential-coupon downloads, introduction of Taipei hotels and popular balloting, games section, and more Effective Dates: Jul. 10 - Aug. 10 Website: www.taipeihotel.tw

【2009 Taipei Hotel Festival – Taipei's Fine Inns (Let's All Go to Taipei and Stay the Night)】

Program: presentation of promoter, the top-10 hottest hotel items of Taipei hotels, introduction and promotion of the Taipei Hotel Festival program, street performer showcase (pantomime) Date: Jul. 19 (Sun) Venue: Plaza, Tiger City shopping complex, Taichung

【2009 Taipei Hotel Festival – Taipei's Finest Inns Kickoff Press Conference】

Program: performance on Taipei's hotel scene, intro of the ten hottest items at Taipei hotels Date: Jul. 21 (Tues) Venue: Central lobby, Taipei City Hall

【Taipei's Fine Inns“General Mobilization”】

Event Details: Jul. 25 (Sat) hotel musical-group show, presentation of promoter Zhang Qin-yan (pop celebrity), election of hotel personnel for outstanding service, awarding of prizes and prize draws, interactive games, sweepstakes draw Jul. 26 (Sun) runway display of top-10 hotel hottest items, announcements of award winners, display of hotel afternoon-tea kitchen talent, performance highlighting hotel specialties, prize draw Venue: Hall 2, World Trade Center, Taichung

Discover Taipei 39 LIVING IN TAIPEI

All Aboard the MRT! Connect Neihu to the Brand New World

in A-mah (Grandma Lin, 林阿嬤) is over 90 years old. Standing on Neihu Rd., she looks up at the raised Ltracks of the new MRT Neihu line and comments that way back in the Japanese colonial era, Neihu's only transportation to the world outside was a suspension bridge over the Keelung River. She is ﬁlled with excitement at the MRT line now punched through, and in her mind's eye the“Neihu Suspension Bridge”has once again come to life.

When the Neihu line is complete, it will connect up with the north end of the Muzha line at Zhongshan Junior High School Station. The Neihu section will have 12 stations in all. Two of them, Songshan Airport Station and Dazhi Station, will be underground. The other 10 will be elevated, the station names as follows: Jiannan Road, Xihu, Gangqian, Wende, Neihu, Dahu Park, Huzhou, Donghu, Nangang Software Park, and Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall. The 12 stations have here been listed in order, starting from the Muzha line connection. Traveling from Jiannan Road Station, which sits beside busy Miramar Entertainment Park, to Zhongxiao-Fuxing Station smack in the city center will be a short 16-minute breeze, and just ﬁve minutes more to Taipei Main Station. You'll only need 41 minutes to get from Neihu Station all the way to the Taipei Zoo Station. At the Songshan Airport Station, there is a direct connection to the airport terminal; this is the ﬁrst aviation-system connection in Taiwan's MRT system. Important news for folks traveling on business: from the airport station, it is a fast 14 minutes to rail- way system connections at Taipei Main Station, and only 27 minutes to the new Nangang Exhibition Center.

You'll ﬁnd to your delight that each of the line's stations has been designed as an artwork in itself, all sporting a speciﬁc theme. The airport station, for example, is embellished with large-scale suitcases at its entrances, public art that clearly declares this station/airport complex is a prime transportation portal.

The Jiannan Road Station is the largest on Neihu line. At night, its exterior will be awash in a cavalcade of multicolored beams of light and dancing waters, creating a fantasia effect. The station's structure is in a“twin peaks”style, allusion to the geographical position of Neihu (literally,“Inner Lakes”), hidden away between high hills, and the station's role as gateway. Xihu Station is island-style station floating above the ground, made to appear as though a giant dancing butterfly. The roof above the platform evokes a butterfly taking flight, with the splendid visual effect of wings flapping up and down.

劍南路站西湖站港墘站文德站內湖站大湖公園站葫洲站 Jiannan Road Xihu Gangqian Wende Neihu Dahu Park Huzhou

大直站 Dazhi 東湖站 Donghu 松山機場站 Songshan Airport 南港軟體園區站中山國中站 Nangang Software Park Zhongshan Junior High School

木柵線 Muzha line 南港線 Nangang line 南港展覽館站 Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall

捷運內湖線路線示意圖 Route Map of Taipei MRT Neihu line 1

40 Discover Taipei 3 4

When you reach Dahu Park, the traveler's ﬁeld of vision opens up markedly, and because“Dahu”(大湖) refers to the“big lake,”here Dahu Park Station has been given the form of a sailing vessel, nicely complementing the lake's arch bridge, a Neihu landmark. At Nangang Exhibition Hall Station, the line's terminus, the platform roof is given dynamic visual impact with the use of trusses to leap long-span spaces and with skylights used to allow ambient light to pour through. Via the interplay of light beam and shadow, the designers seek to stimulate the sensation of being in a time tunnel.

Beyond the obvious plus of being connected with the Muzha, Nangang, and all other lines that zip you all through the city, the Neihu line gives you easy access to a Neihu/Dazhi stretch that is chock-full of eating and entertainment options, a sure-fire destination for passionate day-trippers. On the Neihu/Dazhi border sits the raucous Miramar Entertainment Park, offering fun day and night, with its biggest highlights being the giant rooftop ferris wheel and the large cineplex. Then there's the always buzzing commercial district on Neihu's Chenggong Rd. and the Donghu district on Kangning Rd. And why not try the Halar Cinemas (哈拉影城) in Donghu, or the stretch of wholesale outlets along Jiuzong Rd. that includes the big Costco (好市多) and RT Mart (大潤發) outlets? Or, for a much more leisurely change of pace, slow things down at Dahu Park on Sec. 5 of Chenggong Rd., or maybe Bihu Park (碧湖公園; Emerald Lake Park) on Sec. 2 of Neihu Rd., or head further ahead into the hills to Neihu's tourist strawberry orchards, or to Bishan Campground (碧山露營場; Emerald Mountain Campground), or to.....you get the drift!

The incredible travel convenience that comes with the entry of the MRT system is bound to make Neihu an even more attractive destination for sightseeing, recreational fun, dining, and shopping. And the good folk at our MRT company will also make life that much easier for you by creating printed materials on the area's businesses and on bus-transfer information for passengers, which they'll place in every station for you.

1. The MRT Neihu Line connects the city's Neihu, Nangang and Songshan districts. 2. The artwork“Competing Flight,”a public installation at Dahu Park Station. 3-4.“Flowing Water Reflection”and“Mountain View Weave,”two public artworks at the Jiannan Road Station. 5.“Dreams of Flight”is a public artwork at the Songshan Airport Station.

Discover Taipei 41 LIVING IN TAIPEI

Urban Aqua Amusement Park The 2009 Taipei Water Festival

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s temperatures reach for the stratosphere in the while promoting such usage strategies as“sustainable Adepths of the sultry, sticky Taipei summer, you're water sources”(保育水源),“healthy water play”(健康戲 stuck with your sweaty feet still on the ground. You need 水), and“saving energy, reducing carbon emissions”(節 a way, fast, to cool down. And oh yes, it has to be eco- 能減碳). The end result is ensuring that cool-seekers have friendly, both energy-saving and fossil-fuel efficient. “Fun Summer Holidays & Get High.” Staying inside all day with the air-conditioning blasting just ain't right, and ain't healthy to boot. What option The Taipei Water Department staffs tell us that starting 水資 could possibly, you ask with a panting gasp, do all that? since last year, the Water Sources Education Hall ( 源教育館 A trip to the 2009 Taipei Water Festival (2009臺北親水 ) has undergone a complete overhaul, and 節), that's what. It slides into action on Jul. 4, the theme was unveiled in its new version at the festival's opening this year is“Fun Summer Holidays, High Delights Water ceremony on Jul. 4. The hall is now divided into three “ ” 知 Paradise”(Fun暑假，High翻水樂園), it's chock-full of overarching conceptual areas, Knowing Water ( 水 “ ” 用水 “ ” 惜 cooling games and educational activities that will teach ), Using Water ( ), and Cherishing Water ( 水 you about eco-friendly concepts, and it has been set up ). Clear signage is used to introduce the public to the just for you, adults or kids, to make your summer a happy fascinating history of this city's piped tap-water system one. and water as a resource. Other forms of edutainment used are interactive multimedia exhibits and audio- The Taipei Water Park (自來水園區) is situated in the visual presentations on demand, and just outside, there busy Gongguan area on the south side of the city. The is a wonderfully conceived“Rainwater Recycling Taipei Water Department (臺北自來水事業處) launched Module”(雨水回收模組) that is great fun to ponder. the Taipei Water Festival and its tidal wave of activities Pondering on the intricacies and difﬁculties presented in and educational stimulation in keeping with the new- delivering city-wide piped water is just what the Taipei era concept of the“urban aqua amusement park”(城 Water Department wants to get you to do, and with the 市水樂園). With this theme always in mind, the festival's new Water Sources Education Hall, it has succeeded two months of events embrace the concepts of natural admirably. ecosystems, popular lifestyle trends, and greeniﬁcation

42 Discover Taipei The festival, as said, is stretched over two months, with a tidal wave of activities and performances each Saturday and Sunday. On tap will be shows highlighting martial-arts, diabolo skills, musical groups, foreign traditional-dance troupes, and other stuffs too. The big kid in you will also no doubt love the balloon-magic demos, painting and drawing sessions, “musical water fair”(樂活水市集), beverage-drinking competitions, and many other innovative and entertaining actions. Aqua-lly, water-ever it is you want, that's what the Taipei Water Festival will have on tap for you!

In addition, on the morning of Aug. 8, all visitors are invited to ride the crest of the worldwide eco-protection trend with an environment- friendly, energy-saving bike ride through the park. Along the way, riders will be invited to get to know the Museum of Drinking Water (自來水博物館), and other park highlights better, and their participation will serve as the colorful curtain-raiser for this year's festival. Riders will then be taken through the 500-meter-long water-tunnel bike path opened last 3 December, which takes you to the bike-path system along the Xindian River. From there, you can go west all the way to Guandu (關渡) and Danshui (淡水) or east to Bitan (碧潭) in Xindian (新店). The riverside paths are level, the greenery ever more luxuriant, the vistas broad, the waterfowl plenty, the breezes refreshing, and the bikers—that means you—exceedingly happy campers in the beautiful out of doors.

Aug. 8, special activities will be staged to celebrate Father's Day in Taiwan (8/8 is pronounced“ba ba”in Chinese, which sounds like the same word used by tots to say“papa’). There will be father and son tandem-bike races and“Ba Ba I Love You”games for parents and kids. Whether you're a Dad or not, it is guaranteed to be a day of great thrills and spills at Taipei Water Park. Also, to make it attractive and easy to take in all the many interesting areas of the park, the organizers have 4 whipped up the“High Delights Water Paradise — Get High Passport” (High翻水樂園－Get High護照); inside is a detailed map with all the information and directions needed for a tour, which will make your trip through all the intriguing themes a joy, as well as a true“walk in the park.”The passport also makes a ﬁne memento of a happy time.

For further information, please visit the Taipei Water Park website. This year in the heat of the summer, there'll be no better place to be than soaking up the fun of the Taipei Water Festival, so get those swimming trunks out of the trunk, and get ready to frolic like mad in the sun!

Information 5 2009 Taipei Water Festival 1. The Museum of Drinking Water, housed in Taipei Water Park an attractive heritage facility 10:00-16:00 Jul. 4 - Aug. 31, every Sat/Sun 2-4. The Aqua Friendly Experiencing Area is a wonderful place for the whole family to Aqua Friendly Experiencing Area come and play in summer. 10:00-21:00 Jul 4 - Aug. 31, every Sat/Sun 5. The Taipei Water Festival lets citizens enjoy bike-riding and other fun-ﬁlled activities. Add: 1, Siyuan St. (思源街1號) Tel: (02) 8369-5145 or 8369-5104 Website: waterpark.twd.gov.tw

Please refer to the map provided on p.66.

Discover Taipei 43 LIVING IN TAIPEI

A Trip through the Book, Coffee, and Music Fragrances of Wen Luo Ding

en named“W ipei formally orhood in Ta York's s no neighb behind New o, there' e same idea 汀). Think of th e picture. ing”(溫羅 you'll get th Luo D ”area and e N f the“SoHo the Chines al naming o “Luo”from inform zhou St., the ” rom es from Wen he“Ding f “Wen”com t Rd., and t The ”in Roosevel ational 5 the“Roo that has N endering of out an area r e talking ab mosphere Rd. So we'r wn for its at Dingzhou an area kno of at its core, est density n University has the high Taiwa n area that es in learning, a -music venu culture and s, and indie of coffeeshop cultured s, cafes and taste for the bookstore seas with a rs from over of aesthetic . For travele and pursuit the city r exploration gh s enclave fo amble throu 's an obviou w, day-trip life, it n a deep, slo e take you o stimulation. W arting now. the place, st

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44 Discover Taipei Itinerary

Appreciating religious architecture→Roaming Sec. 3 of Xinsheng S. Rd., Wenzhou St.'s distinctive bookstores→ Gongguan's eateries of myriad culinary style→Café break for some ﬁne brew, listening to ﬁne jazz→Taking in a live-band performance

Where today's Xinsheng S. Rd. runs was once site of a wide irrigation canal, used when this area was once an open ﬁeld. After covering it over, the road atop was named Xinsheng (新生) or“new born”to signify the site's new life, or new beginnings. Today, the artery is a prime site for the appreciation of religious architecture, lined with attractive Protestant and Catholic churches and the Taipei Grand mosque (臺北清真大寺), with frequent comings and goings by members of the city's foreign community. Across from the side entrance to National Taiwan University on Xinsheng near Roosevelt Rd., you'll see a large Protestant church; the Taipei Truth Lutheran Church (真理堂) houses a library/bookstore, while the English-speaking clergy conduct prayer from the“Grace Baptist Church”(懷恩堂). After admiring the solemn grandiosity of the church, we head out on our day of exploration of the many-splendored fragrances of the book, of coffee, and of music.

Because of steady demand from the students at National Taiwan University, head down any lane or alley off Xinsheng S. Rd. toward Wenzhou St. and you'll be greeted by countless bookstores of distinctive, attractive persona. There's Yabook (雅博客二手書店), a second-hand book seller that carries previously owned Chinese and foreign-language books plus CDs, DVDs, and other treasures. There's fembooks (女書店), which concentrates on titles exploring women's issues and indie music. There's sociology specialist Tang Shan (Tang Mountain) Bookstore (唐山書店), and Taiwan Shudian (Tai-uan-e-tiam Ltd. (台灣ㄟ書店), which specializes in titles on Taiwan. You can also explore Hsiao Yuan (Dawn Garden) Publication Co. (曉園出版社) and Einstein Books (愛因斯坦書店), specialists in foreign-language, science and engineering tomes. Finally, there's Truth Book Shop (真理書坊), where you can browse religious titles and related gift items. Here you can search to your heart's content for knowledge treasures while far 8 removed from the world of the chainstore. Each owner's fingerprints are all over their beloved shops, each will likely be on the premises to help you with anything you need, and each place is a world unto itself, of great cultured character, sometimes eccentric, always a joy to be in.

A ramble through bookstores satisfies your intellectual hunger, but what about the rumbling you're now hearing in your tummy? Not to worry. The area satisfies the physical as well as the spiritual needs of many students, faculty and staff, and members of the foreign community in the area, with eateries serving up mouth-watering food from all culinary classifications. Try the reasonably priced Hong Kong- style eatery Fengcheng Shao La (Phoenix City Roasted and Smoked; 鳳城燒臘). Dako serves up the food of Japan's common folk, with oden, a Japanese winter dish, served up in mouth-watering variation. 9

10 1. Norway Forest is a genteel spot for good chat and coffee much frequented by the cultured crowd. 2. Specialist in sociology titles Tang Shan (Tang Mountain) Bookstore. 3-4. Giuliano is an oasis space of coffees with a décor highlighting movie posters. 5. Truth Book Shop carries religious books and related gift items. 6. A live musical performance at Riverside Music Cafe 7. The ﬁne American food at Bongos brings in many overseas students looking to ﬁll up 8. The unique facade of the Grace Baptist Church 9. Yabooks is a second-hand book seller with previously owned Chinese and foreign-language books plus CDs and DVDs.10. Hsiao Yuan (Dawn Garden) Publication Co. specializes in foreign-language and science/engineering tomes. LIVING IN TAIPEI

Thai Fresh (Thailand Restaurant; 泰味鮮) offers authentic Southeast Asian dishes, notably the Thai-style curry. Pamirs (帕米爾新疆餐廳) serves up rustic, bold,“heroic”Xinjiang standards. Madame Jill's Vietnamese Cuisine (翠林越南餐廳) serves true Vietnamese dishes that are finger-licking fine. At Coda and Bongos, gorge yourself on American-style burgers and spaghetti. And, at So Free Pizza, sit in a pretty garden while you munch down on charcoal- fired pizza. Choose any of these, or from among many other spots, and you take a lightning-fast trip overseas before returning to our Wen Luo Ding tour.

OK, you've bought up your ﬁll of books and food. Time to get back out there on the streets and alleys. The experienced traveler may know it's now time to locate and ease on in to a classy café for a cup of sophisticated java. May we, as your trusted tour guide, suggest Norway Forest (挪威森林), Shake House (雪可屋), Café Lumiere (魯米爺咖啡館), and Giuliano (朱利安諾咖啡館). These popular spots are always brimming with students engaged in animated conversation and with free-living bohemian types, artists, and 11 men (and women) of letters. Sit back, peruse the old movie posters adorning 11. Dako serves up hearty oden, a the walls, savor the old vinyl records playing in the background, savor the Japanese winter dish, in mouth- cup of premium blend that has been brewed individually for you, watch the watering variation. people going by and the sun slowly heading west—this, dear friend, is the 12. The signature charcoal-fired gems at So Free Pizza essence of the Wen Luo Ding lifestyle and the whole point of our trip . 13. Both Coda and BONGOS whip up true-blue American-style burgers As night rolls in and changes the mood, Witch House (女巫店), Riverside that are ranch-fresh. Music Café (河岸留言), and Kafka by the Sea (海邊的卡夫卡) are the places 14. The Pamirs kitchen prepares“heroic” you should get yourself to. The many Wen Luo Ding live-music venues offer Xinjiang standards. up a symphony of style choices and ambiance, from jazz to folk, aboriginal 15. Café Lumiere's walls are covered in to rock and roll, or indie to pretty much everything else. Here is where you'll intriguing movie posters. see the full strength of Taipei youth's creativity and skill on display. Perhaps 16. Café Lumiere brings you specially blended coffees and cakes. the perfect way to cap off a day well spent in Wen Luo Ding in the midst of the scorching summer is with a cool nightcap or two to disperse the heat, a dose of enthusiastic performers dishing out zesty music that often scorches, and happy thoughts quickly transforming into fond memories. That's the Wen Luo Ding way.

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13 15 16

46 Discover Taipei Phoenix City Ln. 58, Roasted and Smoked Ln Wenzhou St. . St. Wenzhou 6 0 , Living In Taipei Se Ln. 68,

c Wenzhou St. Witch House/Fembooks(2F) 1

Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. S. Xinsheng 3, Sec. . Rd. S. Xinsheng 3, Sec. Truth Lutheran Church 1 , X in 2 Bosom of Kindness ha Ln. 74, i Rd. Wenzhou St. 3 Yabook Ln. 283, Sec. 3, Roosevelt Rd. Roosevelt 3, Sec. 283, Ln. Giuliano 4 Autumn Waters Pavilion Bongos Dako 5 Water-like Bookstore So Free Shake Taiwan’s 6 fembooks(2F) House

Ln. 96, Books 7 Ln. 333, Sec. 3, Roosevelt Rd. Roosevelt 3, Sec. 333, Ln. Tang Mountain Wenzhou Wenzhou St. Yabook 8 Taiwan Books Park Coda Truth Lutheran Church Truth Book Shop 9 Publication Co. Café Lumiere Einstein Books 10 Einstein Books Grace Baptist Church 11 Truth Book Shop 12 Phoenix City Roasted and Smoked 13 Dako Taipower 17 Company Sec.3, Roosevelt Rd. Tang Mountain Bookstore 14 Thailand Restaurant Hsiao Yuan Publication Co. 15 Pamirs 16 Jill’s Vietnamese Cuisine Riverside Music Café(B1) Kafka by the Sea(2F) 17 Coda National 18 BONGOS Sec. 3, Dingzhou Rd. Taiwan University 19 So Free Norway Forest 20 Norway Forest 21 Shake House Thai Fresh 22 Café Lumiere 23 Giuliano Pamirs 24 Witch House 25 Riverside Music Café (B1) 26 Kafka by the Sea (2F) 公館站 Gongguan Sec. 3, Dingzhou Rd.

18 Jill’s Vietnamese Cuisine 17-18. The Witch House and Kafka by the Sea are focused on live performances by Taiwan's young musical artists.

Map & information

Truth Lutheran Church Tang Mountain Bookstore Truth Book Shop Tel : (02) 2363-2096 Tel : (02) 2363-3072 Tel : (02) 2363-2096 Add：86, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Add：B1, 9, Lane. 333, Sec. 3, Roosevelt Add：86, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. (新生南路3段86號) Rd. (羅斯福路3段333巷9號B1) (新生南路3段86號) Grace Baptist Church Tai-uan-e-tiam Ltd Witch House Tel : (02) 2362-5321 Tel : (02) 2362-5799 Tel : (02) 2362-5494 Add：90, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Add：6, Lane. 76, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Add：7, Lane. 56, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. (新生南路3段90號) (新生南路3段76巷6號) Rd. (新生南路3段56巷7號) Yabook Hsiao Yuan Publication Co. Riverside Music Café Tel : (02) 2362-8298 Tel : (02) 2362-7375 Tel : (02) 2368-7310 Add：9, Lane. 76, Sec. 3, Add：96-3, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Add：B1, 2, Lane. 244, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. (新生南路3 (新生南路3段96-3號) Roosevelt Rd. (羅斯福路3段244 段76巷9號) Einstein Books 巷2號B1) Fembooks Tel : (02) 2363-5233 Kafka by the Sea Tel : (02) 2363-8244 Add：2F-1, 88, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Tel : (02) 2364-1996 Add：2F, 7, Lane. 56, Sec. 3, (新生南路3段88號2樓之1) Add：2F, 2, Lane. 244, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. (新生南路3 Roosevelt Rd. (羅斯福路3段244 段56巷7號2樓) 巷2號2樓)

Please refer to the map provided on p.66.

Discover Taipei 47 LIVING IN TAIPEI

Matthew Lien Promoter of Pristine and Primal Taiwan Music

his year marks the 20th anniversary of Taiwan's Golden Melody Awards (金曲獎). Matthew Lien is a Canadian Tartist that has recongnized Taiwan as his second home. Ten years ago, he engaged in a much talked about joint performance entitled“Flying Squirrel Creek”(飛鼠溪) at the awards ceremony with local musicians and dancers . This year, he was nominated in a number of categories, including the Best Crossover Album, the Best Arranger, and the Best Producer. Matthew says that he feels Taiwan has the most diversiﬁed music on the entire planet, reﬂecting the island's tremendous mix of peoples and cultures, and this is why he has chosen to live here.

In 1998, Matthew came to Taiwan, where it was originally known as Ilha Formosa or the“Beautiful Island.”He gave a joint concert performance entitled“Beloved Earth”(親愛的地球) with local artists, calling on people to pay greater attention to the protection of Mother Earth's ecology. In the week he spent here, he traveled all over the island, up into the mountains, down to the sea, and found many kindred spirits like him, who had deep concerns about our planet's deteriorating natural environment. At the same time, he was exposed to the rich variety of musical expression found among the island's many different peoples. These experiences were given life in his gift to Taiwan, made to express his sincere admiration and affection, the album“Voyage to Paradise”(海角一樂園). During the past ten years, Matthew's relationship been overseas for studies, and therefore they had with Taiwan has grown even closer, even deeper. He no trouble communicating; soon the couple were continues exploring different musics of the world and off traveling to Taiwan's mountains, coastal areas, working with artists from all lands, promoting eco- and other places in its treasure-trove of nature's consciousness and cherishing of our Earth wherever he bounty. Daisy admired Matthew's love for nature can. His concern over our systematic depletion of our and people, and in turn Matthew admired his petite natural resources grows even stronger. Building on his belle's indomitable will and willingness to tackle all familiarity with Western themes and his newfound and challenges. She became another reason behind the ongoing discovery of Eastern musical elements, with deep feelings of love he has developed for Taiwan. life on our Earth as inspiration, Matthew's new works have poured forth, launched one after the other like Early in his career, his agent once told Matthew illuminating bolts of lightning. What the listener gets is an that because of the nature of his music, being new, eye-opening broadening of vista with each recording— different and unusual, therefore his works would not — quality music of great imagination with a deep-ﬂowing sell. How things have changed for him he now message. Acclaim from both critics and audience is has a solid base of support in Taiwan, Canada, and proof that his success is no accident. elsewhere, and is in constant demand to work with the best international talents in the common quest In the past year, a few things have happened that to promote the eco-movement. He encourages make Matthew even more a true“son of Taiwan.” each of us to appreciate the blessings that each of One is that he has become a“son-in-law of Taiwan” us possesses, from access to mountain and forest to (臺灣女婿), marrying a local lass. The other is that they access to the joys of music in a city's live houses. Says have produced a bouncing little brand-new“child Matthew: "You never know what you may lose if you of Taiwan.”His wife Daisy is an English teacher, and don't know what you have." they met at a restaurant in Taipei. She had earlier

1 2 3 1. The brilliant artworks of the natural world is the musical inspiration for Matthew Lien. 2. Matthew incorporates an amazing array of natural sounds in his eclectic, very original music. 3. Earlier in 2009 Matthew and Daisy tied the knot in aboriginal style in a ceremony in central Nantou County. (Photos courtesy of The windmusic and the Da Sang international)

Discover Taipei 49 LIVING IN TAIPEI Foreigner's Reflections on Taipei

Daniela, hailing from Italy, was caught while out having a meal with German friend Alex and French friend Julien. She has been in Taipei for 6 months and studies Chinese at the language center of National Chengchi University (政治大學). She expects to be here till August. She has hardly been to what is called a “music restaurant”(音樂餐廳) before, and found her ﬁrst time at NASSAS, a music restaurant near National Taiwan University, a pleasant experience. She did appreciate the spaciousness and the American-style, eat-all-you-can food and drink. Featuring live music for a youthful crowd, Daniela says that even though she cannot understand everything, the fast-paced rhythms, the happy atmosphere bring her lots of fun. A smiling Alex and Julien both nod their agreement.

In her time here, Daniela's favorite experiences have been drinking tea at teahouses in Maokong (貓 Simon 空) and enjoying the scintillating night scenery from Occupation: English magazine editor the observatory of Taipei 101. But her favorite among Country of Origin: Canada favorites, which she speaks out without hesitation, is Reason in Taipei: Work the Gongguan (公館) area, for she loves the raucous Time in Taipei: 6 years night-market ambiance and the fantastic range of delicious snack treats. imon, who is tall and always smiling, has already Sbeen in Taiwan for 6 years. Last year he married his Daniela sweetheart, a local lady he met in his ﬁrst year here. Occupation: Student Simon works as an editor for an English magazine and Country of Origin: Italy lives in Shilin. He is very health conscious and loves Reason in Taipei: Study traipsing through the hills at his leisure time. He once Time in Taipei: 6 months rode his motorcycle with his wife from the north coast down through Ilan (宜蘭) and on to Hualien (花蓮). Being a lover of history and culture explorations, he considers Yangmingshan, Beitou, and Dadaocheng (大稻埕) as the best areas to explore facets of Taipei in depth.“If you want to get to know Taipei,”he says, “just meander these places on foot with your eyes open.”

Simon says that although he is not a big fan for night-time frolicking, he did have a special experience of attending a concert of Beastie Boys at an unique venue, the old Songshan Tobacco Factory (松山菸廠). Among local musical talents, he likes Wu Bai (伍佰) and China Blue the most, along with Aadia (阿弟仔), because their rock tunes best capture the ﬂavor of Taiwan. He loves to head out to explore the great foods at the city's small eateries and snack stalls, especially in the Shida, Shilin, and Tianmu areas. Simon is proud to have married into the local culture and become a“son-in-law of Taiwan.”

50 Discover Taipei Ryan lives near the National Taiwan Normal University. Here in Taiwan to do market research, he enjoys touring the Shida/Gongguan area and stopping to listen to young new bands and give them applause. Having lived in Taiwan for 4 years, he's a big fan of local underground bands (note: groups that not yet publish their own albums, and only play in public, out of the media) like 1976 (1976 樂團), Fire E.X. (滅火器樂團), LTK Commune (濁水西公社), and Formosa Melody(福爾摩沙音樂). He's a familiar face at local underground joints like Underground (地下社會) in Shida, Riverside Music Café (河岸留言), and The Wall at Gongguan area, where he got to know the music of these bands intimately, also getting to know the deep font of Maria Jesus, David, and Maria are close friends and local talent at the annual Formoz Festival (野臺開唱) all hail from Spain. The trio love outdoor recreations, with his girlfriend. and all are members of the Aqua Friendly Experiencing Area (水悟空親水體驗教育區) in Gongguan. Especially Ryan says that Taiwan is brimming with talented Maria Jesus, who loves street dance, comes to the park indie bands, and some have acquired fame nearly everyday. She loves the comfortable, relaxed overseas. One prime example is“White Horse environment for exercise and recreation here, including (我身騎白馬), ”which incorporates elements of the swimming pool, other water facilities, clean hygienic traditional Taiwanese opera into its music. The band water, and a diversity of activities for her to attend. has released a CD overseas that is filled with the They all enjoys heading to Shida Night Market (師大夜 ﬂair of Taiwanese opera. Ryan likes the varied styles 市) for steamed buns with ﬁlling, called baozi (包子), fried and vitality of the Taipei music scene, and feels the dumplings called guotie (鍋貼), pearl milk tea (珍珠奶茶), city's underground venues are a superb stage for and other popular snack treats. foreign visitors to get an alternative taste of Taipei's musical eclecticism that they would rarely see. Among things that they like here, David likes swimming best, while Maria enjoys the alfresco hot-spring bathing Ryan and SPA, topped off with savory Taiwan-style egg Occupation: Market research pancakes, called dan bing (蛋餅). The three amigos Country of Origin: USA constantly haunt the Gongguan/Shida scene, where Reason in Taipei: Work David likes to take in live performances by local bands at Time in Taipei: 4 years Underground (地下社會), a club in Shida, and Maria Jesus likes to browse through tomes at the eslite bookstore Taiwan University branch (誠品書店臺大店). She also loves spending time at the EZ5 music club on Anhe Rd.; she most enjoys the Taiwan songstress Huang Xiao-hu (黃小琥) and Taiwanese aboriginal music.

They all agree that after arriving, they quickly fell in love with Taiwan, attracted especially by the warmth and friendliness of people here. They hope to stay here quite some time, and Maria plans to get a Master degree at National Taipei University of Technology, in large part as a way to prolong her stay in the city she so much admires.

Maria Jesus(Chus) /David /Maria Occupation: members of Spanish commercial office, Maria Jesus and David / Chinese-studying student, Maria Country of Origin: Spain Reason in Taipei: Two for work, one for study Time in Taipei: 7 months

Discover Taipei 51 ARTS

Artistic Strength that Never Wavers 2009 Taipei Arts Festival

he bold and searching aesthetics of the madman can strengthen the spiritual power of the witness. TShakespeare is coming to the Taipei Arts Festival in 2009, with a selection of his great tragedies given bold theatrical and musical adaptations. Also at the festival will be top-ﬂight local theatrical and dance troupes, wielding lively physical language and innovative music, plus dance movements of myriad mesmerizing form, in ﬂamboyant and passionate expression of the relentless pursuit of artistic revelation by contemporary artists. The festival, an annual extravaganza put on by the city goverment that runs from Aug. 12 through Sept. 6, will give you a choice of 40 performances. This year, you can enjoy the talents of four premier troupes from Poland, France, Spain, and Belgium, and eight local performance companies in Taiwan. They will present to you the wonderful, the fantastic, the surreal, the moving, and greatest of all—the lyrically, sensually beautiful.

The show chosen to open the festival, to be staged Aug. 12 to Aug. 15, is the exciting “Macbeth—Who Is That Bloodied Man？” This outdoor one-hour spectacle, based on Macbeth, is one of Shakespeare's four great tragedies. It's performed by the theatrical troupe Teatr Biuro Podrozy of Poland, using scenes of brooding, silent confrontation and opposition, broken by no spoken word, a palpable sense of real horror is created. “K. Lear,” being presented for the ﬁrst time in Asia from Aug. 14 through Aug. 16, is a brilliant adaptation of King Lear, another one of the four great tragedies. In an unusual twist that challenges the audience to perceive the world from the perspective of the deaf, the presentation employs both sign and spoken language to powerful effect. The play is presented by France's International Visual Theater, a talented troupe of deaf actors, with a deaf actress cast in the greatly challenging role of Cordelia. Spoken lines are replaced with powerful movements and moving visual expression, with sign language deftly woven into the plot. The dramatic effect is both of deep impact and transformative. This year, Taipei City will be the proud host of the 2009 Deaﬂympics, and with “K. Lear,” the Taipei Arts Festival will demonstrate the power of non-verbal speech and the artistic and athletic achievements of the hearing impaired.

52 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 53 From Aug. 13 to Aug. 16, lucky ticket-buyers will have his path-breaking vision and experimentation. It is a the rare opportunity to witness a re-staging of “Neckties series of 50 large-scale video portraits of acclaimed & High-heeled Shoes – A Musical” (領帶與高跟鞋), which dancers and choreographers from around the globe, was the very first local Chinese-language musical ever including Taiwanese artists like Fan-Yi Sheu (許芳宜) and staged and is now a classic. It was unveiled in 1994 by Wu Hsing-kuo (吳興國), shown in hyper-slow-motion Green Ray Theater (綠光劇團) to instant acclaim. With on numerous huge screens. What initially appear to droll humor, it depicts the environment of modern ofﬁce be photo stills beautifully unfold in ultra-slow yet fluid life. Get ready to laugh at yourself, for if you attend, motion, celebrating the slowly revealed gesture upon you may well end up as one of the characters! “Der gesture that define the unique artistic expressions and Hassliche” (醜男子), to be performed from Aug. 21 to techniques of each artist. You'll find yourself riveted to Aug. 23, is written by Marius von Meyerberg, the enfant the spot, time passing without sensation as you marvel terrible of contemporary German theater, and put on at what is before you, ﬁlling your every sense with tingling by Taiwan's Dark Eyes Performance Lab (黑眼睛跨劇團). sensation. It criticizes the narcissism of modern society with the odd tale of a terribly ugly man who undergoes plastic The 2009 Taipei Arts Festival will be a grand exploration surgery to make himself beautiful, only to lose his identity of human sentiment, emotion, vitality, movement, and in the process. On the same dates as Der Hassliche, the communication via myriad verbal and physical modes tradition – fostering Taipei Chinese Orchestra (臺北市立 of expression. You'll find the space between yourself 國樂團) and the avant-garde Cloud Gate 2 (雲門舞集2) and the stage vanished, with you among the players dance troupe get together for another ground-breaking exploring the endless range of the human spirit. Come, creation with “What a TONE!” (跳TONE!), forcing and be impressed. together classical Chinese music and modern dance in 1 a convention-smashing cross-form interplay that brings you surprising, wonderfully harmonious encounters.

Dance refreshes the viewer with lilting movement and light breezes, and dance is also given its due time in the spotlight at the Taipei Arts Festival. On Aug. 21 and Aug. 22, enjoy “Summer – Haruki,” a Murakami Haruki (a Japanese writer) work that shows that no matter how challenging life can be, with the right spirit we can dance through it light as birds and blooming like colorful flowers. After this, from Aug. 28 to Aug. 30, take in “Warum Warum” – a theater research by Peter Brook, in which famed theater maestro Brook constructs a staged Q&A session moderated by a single witchlike actress and amplified by a single musician playing a curious instrument. The point is to answer the simple question“Why？”pulling in concepts from such diverse sources of genius as Shakespeare, Will Durant, and Vsevolod Meyerhold. After the show, you'll find you came, you saw, you pondered – very deeply.

You've never seen anything like “Slow Dancing,” a free outdoor public-art installation that will have its Asia premiere here from Aug. 21 through Sept. 3 The creation is the brainchild of the acclaimed David Michalek, a photographer-visual artist renowned for

1 “. K. Lear”w ill be performed for the ﬁrst time in Asia by France's International Visual 【2009 Taipei Arts Festival 】 Theatre. 2. European House-“Hamlet's Prologue Tel : (02) 2528-9580 Without Words”will be staged by Spain's Website : www.taipeifestival.org (provides details Teatre Lliure. 3. The music and dance creation LAFA“- Ode on the 40 performances, locations, and to Joy,”by LAFA and Artists ticket prices) 3 (Photos courtesy of Taipei Culture Foundation)

52 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 53 ARTS

Children's Dreams Coming True 2009 Taipei Children’s Arts Festival

ear ye! Hear ye! The 2009 Taipei Children's Arts Festival is on the stage! Rejoice! Time to grab your tots by Hthe hand and rush out for fun and frolic spread out over four joyful weeks, from Jul. 8 to Aug. 2. Staged by the city government, the event is stuffed to bursting with all kinds of creative activities, transporting you into a world of free-wheeling imagination mixed with a healthy dose of ediﬁcation on the wonders of art.

Starting Jul. 10, on every Friday and Saturday night, you will see a wonderful live performance at Daan Park. Folks will get to see“San-hwa Officer Brings a Stone to Trial”(三花官審石頭), staged by the Yi Shin Taiwanese Opera Company (一心戲劇團), a veritable cavalcade of musical and visual aesthetics, replete with the unique aural rhythms and dramatic tensions of the traditional Taiwanese opera. Kids will be guided in understanding the meanings behind the music, plot development, and visual presentations. The “Enchanted Tale of the Little Flying Lion King”(飛天小獅王的奇幻旅程) will be performed by Team Win Lion Dance Theater (廷威醒獅劇團), which dedicates itself to preserving and passing on traditional lion dance style and technique while ingeniously adding modern technical ﬂourishes to create a new performance genre. In“The Performance Lab”(擊樂實驗室), the Forum Music (十方樂集) uses lively percussion rhythms exploding with vibrant energy to explore the sensual joys of the music experience; in a wonderful twist, members of the audience become members of the troupe, banging on pots and pans and other household items in a “concert of the kitchen.”Other shows include“My Tap Dancing Is Really Fun”(我的踢踏很好玩),“Dialogs between Mountain and Sea”(山與海的對話), and“The Adventure of Spiders—Spiderina“(派德奇遇記之八腳伶娜). These joyful stage adventure will lift you soaring out of the doldrums of the hot high summer—and best of all, they are free.

The program of events at indoor facilities is just as exciting. Take in“Leo Lionni's Swimmy, Frederick, & Inch by Inch”(小黑魚，田鼠阿佛與一寸蟲), which is specially designed for pre-schoolers. The Mermaid Theater of Nova Scotia, Canada, takes and combines the storylines of three works, all Caldecott winners, by famed children book author and illustrator Leo Lionni. Three shows will be in English accompanied by Chinese subtitles, and seven shows will have dialog in Chinese.

Here's another bonus. Petit Pierre (小皮耶) is a joint Taiwan/Canada creation using simple lines and body languages, with a narrator telling the story of little Pierre, who was born with imperfections yet became successful by studying and researching diligently on mechanics. In honor of Pierre's positive attitude and zest for life, the festival's organizers have invited renowned Taiwan arts educator Wu Zhi-yi (吳祉儀) to set up the “Creating Petit Pierre's Dreams Station”(打造小皮耶的夢想基地), a workshop bringing the works to life with a space ﬁlled with gears and pulleys and other imaginative machine inventions. The space is an educational one for kids, teaching them how to re-use discarded toys and setting out the works in three exhibit-space base areas under the themes of sea, land and sky. On Aug. 2, be sure to be at the festival's grand closing ceremony, where you can get up close and personal with huge puppets, life-sized and even bigger, at the Xiangti Boulevard Plaza at Shin Kong Mitsukoshi in the Xinyi District (信義區新光三越香堤廣場). This is the People's Puppet Project (PPP) Creative Workshop by Snuff Puppets of Australia, a mass showing of creative art projects by 400 bright young children in honor of Petit Pierre. The works will be on exhibit until Sept. 15.

54 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 55 3

1. Petit Pierre is put on by Canada's Le Caroussel. 2. Dance Works invites members of the audience to join in the tap- dancing fun in I Love Tap. 3. For the closing ceremonies, a huge rollicking parade will be put on with local and overseas troupes joining in along with local kids. 4. The Little U Theater will perform Surging. 2 (Photos courtesy of Taipei Culture Foundation)

A meticulous and comprehensive program has been set up so people can ﬁnd everything they desire. There will 【2009 Taipei Children's Arts Festival 】 be 51 paid performances at indoor facilities. Outdoors, beyond one performance already staged on Jul. 8, there Tel: (02) 2528-9580 #191-199 will be seven other free performances. There will be 126 Seven outdoor performances are to be ticketed neighborhood shows and 132 free animated- staged (Daan Park), with 51 at indoor facilities film showings. In grand combination, they will show the (Metropolitan Hall, Wenshan Branch of tremendous and often unique artistic skills of troupes Taipei Cultural Center, Taipei Family Theater, from home and abroad, lifting spirits while at the same and Guangfu Auditorium and Zhongzheng time educating and stimulating children's interests in arts. Auditorium in Zhongshan Hall). Adults, you're guaranteed to have the time of your life too, For details, visit www.taipeicaf.org so please don't miss out! For full program details, visit the dedicated website provided below.

54 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 55 ARTS

1-2. The Wall is a platform for indie underground music performed by both local groups and bands brought in from overseas. 1 2

The Wall – Mecca for Taiwan’s Underground Music Scene

f you've been looking for a place to get up close time scene and, speciﬁcally, to Taiwan's multifarious Iand personal with the best rock talent from around and eclectic music talent, at what is one of the the planet, or to ﬁnd out what's up in new styles and island's most representative music-performance creativity among locally spawned Taiwan bands, venues. head yourself in the direction of National Taiwan University and the nearby Gongguan commercial Before 2003, there were few venues big enough in district, where The Wall (Live House) awaits to Taiwan where you could enjoy live band music. The embrace you with open arms. There, music-lovers on Wall broke through this barrier, setting up the same the island all know, is the one venue that you must facilities as found overseas to provide an artistic visit. space where audiences could scream and shout to their heart's content, enjoy an intimate experience The Wall is a performance space for rock bands, with live performers, and immerse themselves in the created in 2003 by a number of personalities that are musical environment. The manager of The Wall, Mr. key players in, and promoters of, the Taiwan indie Fu (傅經理), points out that it was founded by people music scene, including lead singer A-chi from the passionate about music with ten or twenty years of group The Chairman, Spring Scream organizer Jimi, experience playing in bands. They wanted to create and lead vocalist Freddy from the group Chthonic, an ideal place where all types of music could be who also organizes the Formoz Festival. The name played, create a proper stage where bands could “The Wall”was chosen in tribute to the iconic British show their talents, and offer an escape where regular group Pink Floyd. The Wall is the biggest live house in folk in love with music could come to perform, listen, both size and scope in Northern Taiwan. It measures learn, and appreciate. about 300 pings (1 ping equals 36 sq. ft.), a grand space for Taiwan's indie underground groups and the best groups from overseas to show themselves. It has But don't think The Wall is just a space for musical been featured a number of times in the international display. It is a place that brings together music, tattoo, mass media, including in Monocle magazine and film, food and drink, apparel and accessories, and digital magazines, and in the Feb. 12, 2006 edition exhibitions. It is a display space for any and all types of The New York Times, it was even declared one of of artistic creation, and a space of unique character Taipei's ten most important scenic sites. The report itself. The interior design done by renowned Taiwan 溫慶珠 recommended that when in Taiwan, foreign visitors clothing designer Isabelle Wen ( ), infused with should visit The Wall for the best exposure to the night- an appealing American classical atmosphere. The Free Hugs Gallery on the wall rotates its exhibitions

56 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 57 3 4

5 6

every two months, a venue that encourages artists of all 3-4. Décor-wise, The Wall is an artistic space choc-a-bloc stripes to display their materials for public consumption and with classic Americana, and on the wall-display Free Hugs Gallery, you'll find many an artwork of unusual appreciation. The Wall also has studios and offers lessons character. on instruments and techniques, as well as lessons on sound 5-6. The venue copies and equals the best in like-mission recording. facilities overseas, providing a getaway where music- lovers can scream and shout to their heart's content.

The Wall can accommodate up to 600 people. From Wednesday through Sunday, a line-up of different groups hits the stage, and the admission fee is based on the Information band's fame. A walk into The Wall is a walk into a display of The Wall everything from screaming, head-banging rock to the most Add: B1, 200, Sec. 4, Roosevelt Rd. diverse artistic creations. This is where the beauty of music (羅斯福路4段200號B1) and art synthesized in the most creative, experimental Tel: (02) 2930-0162 fashion. If you want to get a real glimpse of the most ebullient spirits, The Wall is where you can “break on Please refer to the map provided on p.66. through to the other side”of local culture.

56 Discover Taipei Discover Taipei 57 CREATIVE TAIPEI A Romantic Chinese Valentine's at MOCA Taipei “MATCH Index”Lovebirds KUSO Modeling Competition

id you know that lucky local folk here get to celebrate two Valentine's Days each year? Yep, the first is the DWestern Valentine's on Feb.14, and the second is more venerable, celebrated on the 7th day of the 7th month of the lunar calendar. The tradition of the second arose from an old Chinese legend called“The Cowherd and the Weaver Girl”(牛郎與織女). Set in the mystical times of the Jade Emperor, it is said the two youngsters fell in love but neglected their designated work, and that irritated the emperor. He forced them apart, and they can only meet one day each year, the 7th of the 7th, when a cosmic bridge of magpies magically forms. Their story of romantic love has ever since inspired the Chinese, and Chinese Valentine's Day (七夕情人節) was thus born.

MOCA Taipei (臺北當代藝術館) is a young, attractive facility that has at its core, a heritage building transformed, and given new life. Its prime mission is to foster and serve as a display showcase for the most progressive, avant- garde, and experimental in ﬁne arts, but each year for Chinese Valentine's Day, it integrates fashionable elements from Zhongshan District and trendy symbols from Datong District—its two home neighborhoods—to create a celebration that not only is romantic, but exhibits cutting-edge originality.

Building on the great public applause given in last year's celebration,“Citizen Art Windows – Valentine's Composition Event”(公民藝術之窗～七夕情人節徵件活動), MOCA is this year again calling on couples that have a hard time expressing what is in their heart—the“Heart Filled with Love, Can't Get the Words Out”(愛在心裡口難開)

58 Discover Taipei crowd—to become 24-character artists d'amour and is used to pick up one's own spirits and to make those express their innermost passions to their sweethearts and around you happy too, bringing them into your social to all the world in poetry. Last year, the honey-dripping circle. poems were projected on the museum's 24 windows at night, giving lovers a sweet thrill as they passed by The“MATCH Index Lovebirds KUSO Modeling while enjoying the night scenery. The greatest thrills were Competition”(「MATCH指數」情侶KUSO造型大賽) will take experienced by those who found they were the subject place on Aug. 22, before Valentine's Day. There will be of a tender declaration by the very person standing with the competitors'“runway walks”(走秀) and the judging, them with their hands held. Why, there were even those so the organizers are asking competitors to flaunt their who made MOCA Taipei their chosen site to propose most distinctive qualities and his-and-hers attire that best marriage, staff lending a hand with firecrackers and embodies the spirit of the KUSO generation. Big names flowers. Happily for all involved, it is reported that all from the world of fashion and celebrity folk in fashion are those asked in public this way said yes. being invited to serve as judges, and they'll both declare the winning 2009 MATCH couples and pronounce on Adding to this theme of passion, it just so happens the newest fashion vogues. If you want to enter the that from Aug. 22 to Oct. 18 this year, the museum is competition yourself, note that entry bookings have staging the exciting exhibit KUSO, dedicated to the already launched and will end on Aug. 20. For details vocabulary of youth fashion. In ﬁtting fashion, the focus on how to enter, on competition rules, and on prizes, visit is on the trends and vogues of Zhongshan District and the MOCA Taipei website (www.mocataipei.org.tw). the boundless creativity of the young generation. Great fun will be had, by participants and spectators alike, in the zany“MATCH Index”(MATCH指數), big competition that brings couples together and tests their hairstyles, clothing, and physical interaction.

Famed exhibit designer Hu Yong-fen (胡永芬), who is responsible for the KUSO Asia show, says that each generation of the young always creates its own distinctive vocabulary. Whether expressed in the colloquial language, in dress fashion, or in other manners, those who share a common world of experience will share a common world-view, exhibiting their life perspective in humor, a touch of rebelliousness, and sometimes cynicism. This is generally done because 1 feelings of anger and frustration at a perceived impotence to change the reality as one's wishes. What is known as the “KUSO” culture has arisen in Japan and taken hold of the Net Generation, spreading through the rest of Asia and now reaching out to the rest of the world, epitomized by what we might call“sick humor.” In the face of life's setbacks and discouragements, KUSO

Information

MATCH Index Lovebirds KUSO Modeling Competition Entry Bookings: Now to Aug. 20

Runway Walks and Judging: 14:00-17:00, Aug. 22 2 KUSO Asia Exhibit: Aug. 22 - Oct. 18 1. MOCA Taipei's Citizen Art Windows – Valentine's MOCA Taipei Composition Event projects creative love poems submitted by members of the public onto the museum's windows at Add: 39, Changan W. Rd.（長安西路39號） night, creating colorful night scenery and a sweet lattice- Tel: (02) 2552-3721 work of romantic expressions. 2. The“MATCH Index Lovebirds KUSO Modeling Competition” Website: www.mocataipei.org.tw

Discover Taipei 59 CREATIVE TAIPEI

1 2 3

Grammy Glory Comes to a Home-grown Talent Recording Package Designer Xiao Qing-yang

or 18 years, this talented man had labored at his craft in relative Fobscurity. Then, in the past five years, fame has knocked on his door with three Grammy Award nominations for recording package design. He is Taiwan native son Xiao Qing-yang (蕭青陽), a graphics designer, and is now considered as the premium talent in his ﬁeld in Asia. At one point in the past, he abandoned the craft for lack of support and recognition, but in the end he realized he had an unremitting love for music-related creative design, and returned to the chase. The music industry has been the benefactor, and Taiwan can now proudly lay claim to one of the leading international lights in the aesthetic design of recording packages.

Xiao has designed an incredible number of covers—over 800 and counting. He's also involved in other music projects, such as the design of related commercial items and event-related design. He is, little surprise, now one of Taiwan's most acclaimed art designers of recording package, and his renown has spread to foreign shores as well; among other projects, he has been sought out by mainland China to do recording package aesthetics for various entertainers, and you'll ﬁnd his work on the American market as well. His Grammy achievements have in fact come from industry people in the US spotting his art on the market and calling attention to it. As his reputation spreads, so have nominations in other prestigious international competitions.

Xiao's creative profession, you've no doubt observed, is not a mainstream one. As a child, he developed a fascination for album covers, and set about collecting the records of well-known international bands that featured interesting art. He was determined that this would be his chosen career path, and at the tender age of 18, his wish finally came true; he designed his ﬁrst album cover for a local songstress. His excitement knew no bounds. Unlike the lucky few who attain quick fame in their artistic ﬁeld, however, Xiao kept at it year after year, wrapped in anonymity. Often disheartened with the creative limitations that others sought to impose on him in the commercial environment, he stuck doggedly to his own

60 Discover Taipei 4 5

individual creative path. As long as his innovative creativity was 1-3. Xiao Qing-yang's works nominated for Grammy respected, he'd pour his time, and his soul, into his works. Over Awards: The Wandering Accordion (2005), the years he did get some contracts with well-known Taiwan White Horse (2008), Poems & Songs (2009) music distribution companies, but today with the Grammy 4-5. Xiao has designed over 800 record packages, spotlight having been focused on him so often, he can pick as well as many commercial items for musical events. and choose from renowned music production companies, who approach him to bring a fresh and innovative look to their package design.

Xiao has deep affections for Taiwan and its music, and has strong ideas on its promotion. One of his most cherished wishes is Xiao Qing-yang to establish a“Taipei Music Hall”(臺北音樂館) in the Gongguan Grammy Award Nominations district. The idea was elicited from experiences during various trips overseas in which he saw music halls in great international 2005 / The Wandering cities, such as New York and Tokyo that foster a city's unique Accordion musical expression and creativity. Filled with deep admiration Best Recording Package for these initiatives, he hopes that one day he'll have a similar Xiao Qing-yang, art director (Various place here to take foreign friends when they visit so that he Artists) can proudly show them Taiwan's unique musical traditions and achievements, and at the same time witness Taiwan's distinctive 2008 / White Horse ﬂair for design. His ultimate goal is to bring Taiwan's music in full Best Recording Package regalia onto the international stage. Xiao Qing-yang, art director (GTS)

After being nominated for Grammies several times, Xiao has 2009 / Poems & Songs been honored by the Grammy Awards' Recording Academy Best Boxed Or Special Limited Edition by being invited as an association member and a judge. With Package this kind of approbation and the influence that comes with Xiao Qing-yang, art director (Wu Sheng) it, he believes he'll be even better able to serve as a role for establishing the importance of authentic home-grown Taiwan music on the international stage. This hometown Taipei lad has great pride in the creativity of his native place, and is now intent on having the entire world come to know and admire the beauties of the Taipei voice.

Discover Taipei 61 PRACTICAL INFORMATION

July-August Arts Exhibition Calendar 2009 07 JULY AUGUST 08

National Palace Museum Taipei Artist Village

Tel：(02) 2881-2021 Tel：(02) 3393-7377 Add：221, Sec. 2, Zhishan Rd. (至善路2段221號) Add：7, Beiping E. Rd. (北平東路7號) Website：www.npm.gov.tw Website：www.artistvillage.org From now on to 8/31 From now on to 8/23 Chen Chi-kwan, The Mind's Eye: Commemorating the Summer Dance Festival 90th Anniversary of His Birth National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Discovery Center of Taipei Tel：(02) 2343-1100 Tel：(02) 2725-4547 Add：21, Zhongshan S. Rd. (中山南路21號) Add：2F, 1, Shifu Rd. (市府路1號) Website：www.cksmh.gov.tw Website：www.discovery.tcg.gov.tw From now on to 7/30 From 7/29 to 9/20 Encountering with splendid Ink-Stone by Tung Tso Experience the Power of Silence From now on to 7/30 2009 Taipei Deaﬂympics Special Exhibition An exhibition on the 50 years of Tibetan people's experience in exile Taipei Fine Arts Museum From now on to 7/31 Tel：(02) 2595-7656 Pleasant-Carved Porcelain and unusual wood Add：181, Sec. 3, Zhongshan N. Rd. (中山北路3段181號) From 7/17 to 10/11 Website：www.tfam.museum Futurism From now on to 11/22 Foreign Affairs: Artists from Taiwan National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall Tel：(02) 2758-8008 Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei Add：505, Sec.4, Renai Rd. (仁愛路4段505號) (MOCA Taipei) Website：www.yatsen.gov.tw

Tel：(02) 2552-3720 2009/7/8、7/11、7/15、7/18 Add：39, Changan W. Rd. (長安西路39號) Art Movies Programs—Samsara Website：www.mocataipei.org.tw 2009/7/22、7/25、7/29、8/1 From now on to 8/9 Art Movies Programs—Son of Maryam X beyond O : Calligraphy-Sign-Space 2009/8/5、8/8、8/12、8/15 Art Movies Programs—La Seconda Moglie National Theater & Concert Hall 2009/8/19、8/22、8/26、8/29 Tel：(02) 3393-9888 Art Movies Programs—Just The Beginning Add：21-1, Zhongshan S. Rd. (中山南路21-1號) Website：www.ntch.edu.tw National Taiwan Arts Education Center

From 8/28 to 9/25 Tel：(02) 2311-0574 Summer Jazz 2009 Add：47, Nanhai Rd. (南海路47號) 8/28 Website：www.arte.gov.tw Preservation Hall Jazz Band From 6/27 to 7/23 Achievements Exhibition of Department of Visual Communication Design, Southern Taiwan University

62 Discover Taipei PRACTICAL INFORMATION

How You Get from Taiwan Notice： NON-EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS In order to improve the quality of telephone Unit Tel. No. service to the public, the city government Taipei City Govt. Citizen Hotline 1999 Taoyuan International Airport to is systematically implementing the 1999 Citizen Hotline plan (1999市民熱線優化專 English Directory Service 106 案). Since 3 July in 2008, 16 toll-free 0800 IDD Telephone Service Hotline 0800-080-100 ext.9 Taipei lines from 15 Taipei City Government Time-of-Day Service 117 departments, along with two non-0800 Weather Bureau 166 lines from the Department of Environmental Traffic Reports 168 For traveling between Taipei and Taiwan Taoyuan International Protection (環保局), have been consolidated Airport, whether by inexpensive, high-quality coach, safe and fast within the 1999 public-access hotline Tourism Bureau (MOTC) 24-Hour Toll- 0800-011-765 service. For more information, please call Free Travel Information Hotline taxi, or high-grade professional airport limo service, you’re spoiled 1999 or visit the website of the Research, Tourism Bureau (MOTC) Toll-Free 0800-211-734 for choice in satisfying your particular time and budget. Development and Evaluation Commission Traveler Complaints Hotline (研考會) at www.rdec.taipei.gov.tw International Community Service 0800-024-111 Hotline Tourism Bureau Information Counter, Terminal 1:(03)398-2194 Taxi Mocca Power Co. "The Transportation Map of Taoyuan International Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport Terminal 2:(03)398-3341 Airport Terminal I & II" Government Information Office, (02) 3356-8888 Service locations: to the Service locations: to Executive Yuan north of the Arrivals hall the southwest of the ◆ Terminal 1 1F Bureau of Foreign Trade (02) 2351-0271 N of Terminal I and to the Arrivals hall of Terminal Bus Station Taiwan External Trade Development (02) 2725-5200 B Meeting south of the Arrivals hall I ( e x t e r i o r v e h i c l e u Meeting Council (TAITRA)

s Tickets point Arrival Greeting Hall point

of Terminal II pickup corridor) and t a to Parking Lot to Parking Lot Taiwan Visitors Association (02) 2594-3261

to the northeast of the n One-way journey fare: Arrival Hall Ministry of Foreign Affairs (02) 2348-2999 Arrivals hall of Terminal meter count plus 50%, II (exterior vehicle Ministry of Foreign Affairs Citizens (02) 2380-5678 with freeway tolls extra; TAIWAN EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS Hotline pickup corridor) average fare to Taipei Unit Tel. No. Additional Information Police Radio Station (02) 2388-8099 around NT$1,100. Reservations tel: St Bus Shuttle Crimes, traffic accidents, English Hotline for Taxi Service 0800-055-850 ext.2 0926-170-090 Terminal I Arrivals hall and other incidents for Police 110 which police assistance is Consumer Service Center Hotline 1950 taxi-service counter tel. One-way fare: NT$800, Departure Hall needed o

To B1F To B1F p Bureau of National Health Insurance 0800-030-598 ext.3 no.: (03) 398-2832 travel time 30-40 mins Post Information Insurance Fire, injury or accident, or Information Hotline Office Insurance ATM ATM Terminal II Arrivals hall Fire 119 other urgent matters for which emergency relief is AIDS Information Hotline 0800-888-995 taxi-service counter tel. needed ◆ no.: (03) 398-3599 Terminal 2 1F S 2 4 - h o u r e m e r g e n c y , Tour Bus Circles the Women and legal information, and Source for Above Information: Airport bus Hotel special-purpose bus Airport bus Boarding Area boundary bus Children psychological services Information For Foreigners Service / Tel: 0800-024-111 Protection 113 ext.0 for victims of domestic Coach / bus Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications wating room Hotline violence and/or sexual Passenger Coach Bus abuse/attack Tel: (02)2349-1500 ※ Entries in brown indicate service in English provided

Service locations: to the southwest of the Arrivals Lirnousine

hall of Terminal I (exterior vehicle pickup corridor) Arrival Baggage Claim and to the northeast of the Arrivals hall of Terminal LIST OF TAIPEI VISITOR INFORMATION CENTERS

II (exterior vehicle pickup corridor) Bus Deparling Designation Tel. No. Address

Coach-service companies: Taiwan Bus Corp., store Arrival Arrival Lirnousine Taipei Main Station Visitor Information Center (02) 2312-3256 3, Beiping W. Rd., Zhongzheng District Evergreen Bus, Fe Go Express, Toward You Air Bus Greeting Lobby Greeting Lobby Service Center Songshan Airport Visitor Information Center (02) 2546-4741 Unit 9, 340, Dunhua N. Rd., Songshan District Tram Tram One-way fare: NT$85~145 East Street Mall Information Center (02) 6638-0059 Underground Mall 4-2, 77, Sec.1, Daan Rd., Daan District Journey time: 40~60 minutes depending on routes Rental Car Auto Boarding Area Taxi Boarding Area MRT Beitou Station Visitor Information Center (02) 2894-6923 1, Guangming Rd., Beitou District (60~90 minutes for Toward You Air Bus, which has MRT Jiantan Station Visitor Information Center (02) 2883-0313 65, Sec. 5, Zhongshan N. Rd., Shilin District 【INDEX】 Outdoor Bus Station Taxi Station more stops) MRT Ximen Station Visitor Information Center (02) 2375-3096 B1, 32-1, Baoqing Rd., Zhongzheng District Toilet Healthy Foreign Currency Frequency of service: Every 15~20 minutes (Toward Center Exchange Miramar Entertainment Park Visitor Center (02) 8501-2762 20, Jingye 3rd Rd., Zhongshan District You Air Bus 20~30 minutes) Elevator Moving Yangming Park Visitor Center (02) 2861-8975 26, Sec. 2, Hushan Rd., Beitou District Walkway

Discover Taipei 65 Shida Night Market Map/Taipei Water Festival Map/Wen Luo Ding Map/The Wall Map Shida Night Market & Taipei Water Festival & Wen Luo Ding & The Wall Information (P20~P26/P42~P47/P56~P57)

International Food Street Tai-uan-e-tiam Ltd. BONGOS Add：Lane 13, Pucheng St. Tel：(02) 2362-5799 Add：3, Alley. 5, Lane. 74, Wenzhou St. (浦城街13號) Add：6, Lane. 76, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. (溫州街74巷5弄3號) Jiu Xiang Ju (新生南路3段76巷6號) So Free Tel：(02) 2368-0576 Hsiao Yuan Publication Co. Add：28, Lane. 283, Sec. 3, Roosevelt Rd. Add：81, Longquan St.(龍泉街81號) Tel：(02) 2362-7375 (羅斯福路3段283巷28號) Salt Peanuts Café/Factory Add：96-3, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Norway Forest Tel：(02) 2368-1019 (新生南路3段96-3號) Add：82, Wenzhou St. (溫州街82號) Add：23, Lane. 60, Taishun St. Einstein Books Shake House (泰順街60巷23號) Tel：(02) 2363-5233 Add：9, Lane. 284, Sec. 3, Roosevelt UnderWorld Add：2F-1, 88, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Rd. (羅斯福路3段284巷9號) Tel：(02) 2369-0103 (新生南路3段88號2樓之1) Café Lumiere Add：B1, 45, Shihda Rd. (師大路45號B1) Truth Book Shop Add：15, Alley. 14, Lane. 283, Sec. 3, Shuiguibo Tel：(02) 2363-2096 Roosevelt Rd. Tel：(02) 2367-6696 Add：86, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. (羅斯福路3段283巷14弄15號) Add：15, Alley 1, Lane 78, Sec. 4, (新生南路3段86號) Giuliano Roosevelt Rd. Phoenix City Roasted and Smoked Add：2, Alley. 1, Lane. 74, Wenzhou St. (羅斯福路4段78巷1弄15號) Add：58, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. (溫州街74巷1弄2號) Truth Lutheran Church (新生南路3段58號) Witch House Tel：(02) 2363-2096 Dako Tel：(02) 2362-5494 Add：86, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Add：10-1, Lane. 76, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Add：7, Lane. 56, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. (新生南路3段86號) (新生南路3段76巷10-1號) (新生南路3段56巷7號) Grace Baptist Church Thai Fresh Riverside Music Café Tel：(02) 2362-5321 Add：3-4, Alley. 8, Lane. 316, Sec. 3, Tel：(02) 2368-7310 Add：90, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Roosevelt Rd. Add：B1, 2, Lane. 244, Sec. 3, Roosevelt Rd. (新生南路3段90號) (羅斯福路3段316巷8弄3-4號) (羅斯福路3段244巷2號B1) Yabook Pamirs Kafka by the Sea Tel：(02) 2362-8298 Add：12, Alley. 4, Lane. 286, Sec. 3, Tel：(02) 2364-1996 Add：9, Lane. 76, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Rd. Roosevelt Rd. Add：2F, 2, Lane. 244, Sec. 3, Roosevelt Rd. (新生南路3段76巷9號) (羅斯福路3段286巷4弄12號) (羅斯福路3段244巷2號2樓) Fembooks Jill’s Vietnamese Cuisine Taipei Water Festival Tel：(02) 2363-8244 Add：12, Alley. 12, Lane. 24, Sec. 4, Tel：(02) 8369-5145 or 8369-5104 Add：2F, 7, Lane. 56, Sec. 3, Xinsheng S. Roosevelt Rd. Add：1, Siyuan St. (思源街1號 ) Rd. (新生南路3段56巷7號2樓) (羅斯福路4段24巷12弄12號) The Wall Tang Mountain Bookstore Coda Tel：(02) 2930-0162 Tel：(02) 2363-3072 Add：23, Lane. 283, Sec. 3, Roosevelt Rd. Add：B1, 200, Sec. 4, Roosevelt Rd. Add：B1, 9, Lane. 333, Sec. 3, (羅斯福路3段283巷23號) (羅斯福路4段200號B1) Roosevelt Rd. (羅斯福路3段333巷9號B1)

【Transportation】 Shida Night Market Taipei Water Festival MRT : MRT : Take the Xindian Line to Taipower Building Station, take Exit 1. Taipei Water Park：Take the Xindian Line to Gongguan No. 3, and walk a short distance along Shida Rd. Station, take Exit No. 4, head toward intersection of Siyuan Bus : St. and Dingzhou Rd., about 10 minutes on foot. Take bus No. 15, 18, 235, 278, 295, Heping main line, 662, 663, 2. Aqua Friendly Experiencing Area：Take the Xindian Line 672, 74, or 907 along Heping E. Rd. to the Nat'l Taiwan Normal to Gongguan Station, take Exit No. 1, and head to the U. 1 stop. mouth of Lane 160, Sec. 3, Dingzhou Rd., about 5 minutes Wen Luo Ding Tour on foot. MRT : Bus : 1. Take the Danshui Line (Danshui-Xindian) to Gongguan 0 South, 1, 30, 52, 74, 106, 109, 115, 208, 236, 251, 252, 253, Station, take Exit No. 3, and walk to National Taiwan 254, 278, 280, 284, 290, 291, 311, 505, 510, 606, 626, 642, 643, University/Xinsheng S. Rd., about 8 minutes. 644, 648, 649, 907, Xindian Bus Co., Shin-Shin Bus Co., Zhinan 2. Take the Danshui Line (Danshui-Xindian) to Taipower Building Bus Co. Routes 1, 2, get off at MRT Gongguan Station, then Station, take Exit No. 2, and walk about 8 minutes. on foot 5-10 minutes. Bus : 66 Discover Taipei 0 South, 208, 236, 251, 252, 278, 530, 606, 644, 648, 673 to Taipower Building Station.