Silent Night PARIS — Drama Was the Word at Olivier Theyskens’ Cruise Collection for Rochas

CELINE GOES INSIDE FOR DESIGNER/2 WHAT TO WATCH/10-11 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 6, 2005 • $2.00 Sportswear Silent Night PARIS — Drama was the word at Olivier Theyskens’ cruise collection for Rochas. Inspired by the work of Ingmar Bergman, the designer showed dramatic gowns, long and short, along with abstract prints and airy silk dresses, like the one seen here. For more on the season, see pages 6 and 7.

For Belk, Size Matters As Chain’s New Execs Up Competitive Ante By Georgia Lee ATLANTA — Spurred by new leaders, streamlined operations and a focus on brands, Belk Inc.’s purchase of Proffitt’s and McRae’s gives a regional retailer that isn’t known for acquisitions the challenge of integrating major companies and signals its desire to stay in the hunt for businesses. “We would consider other opportunities, but our immediate objective is to transition the Proffitt’s/McRae’s stores into Belk,” said Steve Pernotto, senior vice president, human resources. “This…enables us to See Growing, Page12 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 WWD.COM Celine Taps Insider Omazic as Designer WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear By Miles Socha ture collection, based out of Gubbio, Italy. He replaced Michael Kors, who also divided his time PARIS — It looks like she had the inside track. between his signature collection and Celine. After interviewing a slate of prominent female LVMH also asked its new couturier at FASHION candidates, Celine has opted for an in-house tal- Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci, to suspend his signature Roberto Cavalli melds cocktail chic with disco dash for cruise and Olivier ent, Ivana Omazic, to become its next designer, collection, suggesting a change in strategy for the 6 Theyskens take a dramatic turn at Rochas. WWD has learned. French luxury giant. LVMH has typically hired According to a source here, 32-year- high-profile designers for its brands and allowed old Omazic, who joined Celine as a them to do double duty on their signature lines. GENERAL consultant last April from Miu Miu, As reported, the search for Menichetti’s suc- Belk’s purchase of Proffitt’s and McRae’s offers the challenge of integrating will be named to head design at the cessor spanned candidates such as Raf Simons 1 major firms and signals its desire to be a player on the acquisition hunt. fashion and accessories firm owned and Peter Som, but recently centered This Sulky After interviewing a slate of prominent female candidates, Celine has opted by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis on a group of designing women, in- 2 for an in-house talent, Ivana Omazic, to become its next designer. Vuitton. An announcement is expected bag is to cluding Isabel Toledo, Veronique shortly. help mark Branquinho and ex-Gucci-ite The U.S. moved to cancel a program ruled illegal by the WTO that provided Omazic will succeed Roberto Celine’s Alessandra Facchinetti. 3 million of dollars in subsidies to cotton growers and yarn spinners. Menichetti, who exited Celine last 60th Despite turmoil in the design de- Riccardo Tisci, the new couturier at Givenchy, said he was shocked in a May after a lackluster one-year anniversary. partment since Kors’ exit last year 8 good way when he discovered the fashion house’s vast archives. collaboration. Although she had after a successful seven-year stint, W2W: As Target and Wal-Mart up their fashion quotients, moderate a hand in the cruise line already Celine has been soldiering ahead, department store vendors have their work cut out for them. sold to buyers, Omazic is expect- especially in the leather goods de- 10 ed to show her first complete col- partment. Celebrating its 60th an- W2W: New York designers may not embrace Marc Jacobs’ extreme lection on the runway during Paris niversary this year, the house re- 11 volumes for spring, but they might focus on his move to a darker palette. Fashion Week in October. cently introduced a limited-edition Born in Zagreb, Croatia, Omazic range of three handbags dubbed studied fashion at the European “Les Parisiennes,” designed with WEST Institute of Design in Milan. Upon input from a French novelist, an art The San Pedro Wholesale Mart in Los Angeles, a bastion for the Korean- graduation, she joined Romeo Gigli photographer and a fashion curator. 14 American apparel community, is experiencing a real estate boom. for one year before moving on to Prada Headed by chief executive Jean-Marc Group. There, she worked on the Prada Loubier since 2000, the house is believed to SUZY Sport and Jil Sander brands, but she was most re- have turned a profit in 2003 and 2004, aided by a Word is Tom and Katie will be married at the Scientology Center in Los cently women’s ready-to-wear design coordinator major restructuring and growth in high-margin Angeles…Jude Law and Sadie Frost come to terms, divorce that is. at Miu Miu. leather goods. The latter category is believed to 4 Neither LVMH nor Celine officials could be generate about 40 percent of brand sales. reached for comment on Tuesday. However, it is LVMH does not give volume breakdown for in- Classified Advertisements ...... 16-19 understood the house was eager to find a designer dividual brands, but market sources estimate To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is willing to be devoted exclusively to Celine. Celine’s volume at around $200 million. It oper- [email protected], using the individual’s name. Menichetti parted ways with Celine partly be- ates a network of some 110 stores, including re- cause he could not dedicate enough time to the cent additions in Florence, Italy and Tokyo’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Paris brand given his desire to expand his signa- Ginza district. VOLUME 190, NO. 3. 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But if they’re forcing you to sit on your Unlike most other Factors, Sterling has all ● CHAUNU DEPARTS CHOPARD: Thierry Chaunu has left his receivables, you can’t be maximizing your the resources of a full-service bank. Count on position as Chopard’s U.S. president to pursue other opportuni- opportunities. us for everything from asset based lending, ties. Chaunu, who had been with the company for more than six At Sterling, we help clients leverage equipment leasing, letters of credit, years, departed about a week ago. Chopard has replaced him in receivables to keep cash flowing and business international trade finance and more. the interim with chief financial officer Joseph Baumann. growing. For a confidential evaluation of how we can Chaunu would not discuss his future plans, but said he would continue to work in the luxury goods sector. He also has held po- Our client relationships are up-close, personal, meet your working capital requirements more sitions at Cartier and Christofle. and long-term. We work hard to become a cost-effectively, call or email us today. valued stakeholder in every client’s business. STERLING NATIONAL BANK STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION Correction W ORKING CAPITAL. WORKING HARDER. John LaLota, Executive Vice President Robert Schnitzer, Dir. of Business Development ANF, the new Japanese subsidiary of Abercrombie & Fitch, has been formed with an initial investment of 100 million yen, or Sterling Factors Corporation Sterling National Bank $934,579. The dollar conversion was incorrect in a story on page EST.1929 (212)575-4415 (212)575-4446 FDIC 19, June 27. NYSE: STL [email protected] [email protected] WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 3 WWD.COM John Galliano’s Latest Take on Time By Miles Socha and Sophia Chabbott design employs it as a decorative treatment on both the bezel and at the bracelet. John Galliano wearing PARIS — Leave it to John Galliano, friends “Sapphire is the second-hardest material the new Christal watch. with the likes of Gwen Stefani, to create an to diamonds on the Mohs hardness scale used eye-catching watch especially designed for in the jewelry industry; it’s far less brittle “rock chicks.” [than other materials],” “I wanted to create a said Lagarde. watch that looked like it The bracelet of the was sculpted in dia- watch features a cut monds,” Galliano said of crystal motif in either the Christal, the latest pink, gray or white rep- watch he designed for resenting the pink Christian Dior. roses of the late Although slated for a Christian Dior’s gar- fall debut at retail, expect den, the company’s sig- a sneak preview today on nature dove gray furni- the wrists of a few celebri- ture or the white lac- ty guests at Dior’s couture quer of the company’s show here. stores, respectively. Galliano said his start- The watches range ing point for the design in price from $1,495 for was the “chunky, cool the smallest ladies’ look” of a stainless steel style with crystal de- diving watch, which he tails on the bracelet spiked with sparkling sap- and face to $4,250 for phire crystals and dia- the men’s watch, re- monds. Although it has plete with a diamond the weight and feel of a bezel, chronograph and man’s watch, its high pol- bracelet with full-on ish and bling factor aim it crystal treatments. squarely at women. Lagarde estimates “It’s that mix of mascu- the Dior Christal will line lines with feminine account for between 30 touches that makes it so The new Dior Christal Grise. and 50 percent of the sexy,” Galliano said. company’s watch busi- Galliano was particularly excited about ness this fall. this project, according to Lisa Lagarde, vice A print advertising campaign will bow in president of Christian Dior Watches, North October magazines, although none of the ti- America. tles could be confirmed at press time. “Galliano is about fashion,” she said. “He’s The watches ship to Dior boutiques now combined fashion and function — it’s to- worldwide in mid-September and will roll tally fresh.” out to U.S. stores such as Neiman Marcus, The Christal’s sapphire crystal is typically Saks Fifth Avenue and Bailey Banks & used as the crystal of a watch, but Galliano’s Biddle in October. Bush Moves Against Cotton Subsidies Saks’ Creditors Agree to Waiver

By Evan Clark The Doha negotiations are focused on NEW YORK — A majority of creditors holding Saks Inc. debt agreed to a waiver of further liberalizing trade and removing default and amendments relating to the retailer’s tender offers and consent solici- WASHINGTON — The Bush administra- global tariffs among the 148 nations of tations announced last month, the company said Tuesday. tion moved on Tuesday to cancel a pro- the WTO. The consents to the debt note amendments and waiver of default include a debt gram that has supported U.S. cotton The administration’s action stems from note partially held by a hedge fund that sent out a “notice of default” last month growers and yarn spinners with millions a September 2002 complaint filed by Brazil because Saks said it would delay filing its annual report. of dollars of government subsidies and that maintained the subsidies restrained Regarding the tender offer, Saks said about $533 million has been tendered so has been ruled illegal by the World global cotton prices and were illegal. far. The offer involves approximately $1.2 billion worth of debt, which is due over Trade Organization. Brazil said the subsidies cost its farmers the next five to 19 years. Congress must first approve the more than $600 million in lost sales. The retailer said the purchase price on the senior notes is $1,000 per $1,000 repeal of the program, a crucial part of The WTO ruled against the U.S., principal amount. This includes a consent payment of $20 per $1,000 principal. the farm initiative referred to as Step 2, which appealed. But the WTO ordered In a statement, Saks said it “extended the consent payment deadline [as defined and opposition can be expected from the U.S. in March to end the subsidies in the offers to purchase and consent solicitation statement] for each of these is- lawmakers representing agriculture- and to begin the process by July 1. sues of senior notes to midnight on July 18, 2005,” which is when the tender offer heavy districts. Step 2 subsidies are trig- Cotton farmers, exporters and textile expires. gered when world cotton prices fall mills received payments of $14.1 billion To date, the debt holders have jumped on the offer. Of the notes due 2024, 2011 below a certain level. from 1995 to 2003 under Step 2, accord- and 2008, the percent of consents delivered were 59, 97 and 87 percent, respective- The administration also proposed the ing to the Environmental Working Group, ly. The percent of consents done so far on the notes due 2010, 2013 and 2019 were removal of a 1 percent cap on fees that which opposes agricultural subsidies. 57, 93 and 99 percent, respectively. can be charged under export-credit pro- Raking in some of the biggest benefits The retailer said Citigroup Global Markets Inc.; Goldman, Sachs & Co.; Banc of grams and the elimination of the from the program during the period, cot- America Securities LLC, and Wachovia Securities are managing the consent solici- Intermediate Export Guarantee ton spinner Parkdale Mills Inc. received tations and the tender offers. Program last week. $98 million in subsides, while Avondale — Arthur Zaczkiewicz Developing nations have argued that Mills Inc. received $86 million, according such subsidies flood the market with to the group. cheap goods and give U.S. producers an The National Cotton Council said it unfair competitive advantage. Cotton would make a statement on the adminis- SINGLED OUT: In the age of the merger, second chances subsidies, along with other issues, con- tration’s move today, but laid out its gen- are hard to come by. That’s what Lisa Frankel found out tributed to the collapse of the September eral position against Brazil’s case in a MEMO PAD when her employer, Fitness magazine, was acquired by 2003 WTO talks in Cancún, Mexico. July 2004 statement. Citing a Texas Tech Meredith Corp. last month. While the other members of “By implementing these proposed University analysis, then chairman and the magazine’s sales staff were allowed to keep their positions, Frankel, who’d been hired changes, we are being fully responsive to current adviser Woody Anderson said the as ad director several weeks earlier, was let go. A Meredith spokesman declined to the WTO decision,” Agriculture U.S. cotton program does not affect world comment on the reason, but it appears to stem from a past conflict with Jeanine Shao, Secretary Mike Johanns said in a state- cotton prices by more than 2 percent. publishing director of Ladies’ Home Journal and More, and now of Fitness. Frankel worked ment Tuesday. “This step is essential for “This is not a significant impact,” under Shao at LHJ in 2000, and the two were frequently at odds, according to a former the United States to continue to be a Anderson said at the time. “I am not colleague. “They’re actually quite similar — they’re both somewhat scattered and leader in the WTO Doha negotiations, apologizing for the U.S. cotton program. disorganized,” said the source. Frankel ended up leaving Meredith the following year, which are crucial to U.S. market access It is well-designed, well-crafted and an holding several positions elsewhere before landing at Fitness. She couldn’t be reached for and the long-term prosperity of our farm- important component of the agricultural comment. — Jeff Bercovici ers and ranchers.” policy of the United States.” 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 WWD.COM Cameron’s Fist Fight ● Jude’s Payoff ● Fab Fabergé

● You’ve heard that Martha Stewart is about to become a musical comedy. John Ekizian has written “Martha! The Unauthorized Musical,” based on a fictional Martha-esque character named Martha Blake, who makes her way from humble beginnings to become the world’s reigning domestic diva. Just remember that casting may require both baking and singing. I can wait if you can. ● Hilary and Wilbur Ross have moved to 781 Fifth Avenue on the 30th floor, and the new apartment is said to be beautiful. Very visible is the fine Italian hand of decorator Mario Buatta. ● In Russia, the big cultural news is that more than 100 pieces of objects by Carl Fabergé, the great Russian jeweler, will be on display for the first time at the Moscow World Fine Art Fair, from Sept. 20 to 26 at the Manège Exhibition Hall, the vast new cultural complex that has been restored. These famous art treasures, once owned by the late American collector Malcolm Forbes, are part of a much larger collection of Fabergé’s creations that was bought at auction at Sotheby’s in May by a foundation led by Viktor Vekselberg, the prominent Russian industrialist. This occasion will mark the first time the treasures will be on public display in Russia. Everyone is thrilled the treasures are back in Russia where they Cameron Diaz were created. There will be decorative objects of every stripe, including Penélope Cruz boxes, cigarette cases, cane handles, desk pieces, clocks and jewelry for all to see. Fifty-five international dealers specializing in furniture and works of art spanning the 16th Suzy through the 19th By Aileen Mehle centuries will show their wares at the fair and If you can bear anymore of this romance, there will be jewelry from here goes. It is being said that To m C . and 16 top dealers to dazzle Katie H. will be married at the Scientology the eye. eye® Center in Los Angeles before the summer is This year, Pilar and over. They may or may not be planning a Juan Pablo Molyneux of honeymoon on a boat somewhere, but that somewhere New York will cochair the only Tom knows. One of the latest rumors, and there are a Friends of the Fine Art million of them, is that they have been looking at Rob Fair and among those Lowe’s $6 million estate in Montecito, Calif., and that Sadie Frost joining them on the Nicole Kidman was asked to the wedding but has politely committee are such well- declined, although their two adopted children will attend. known Americans as Alexis Gregory, Paige Rense, Olga What you can be sure of is that there will be a wedding Rostropovich, Lee Thaw, Catherine and David Hamilton, cake. Katie H. has a sweet tooth. She says, “In my opinion, Brian McCarthy and Robert Couturier. if you’re not eating enough sugar, you’re not living. You’ve The fair will take place in one of the city’s most got to have some sugar — dark chocolate, carrot cake, treasured and beautiful neoclassical buildings. The chocolate cake, cheesecake, pie, chocolate chip cookies, Manège, built in 1817 in honor of the fifth anniversary of brownies, anything except tarts. I am not really into tarts, the victory of Russian troops over Napoleon, resembles but I’ll eat them.” Gawd. the Grand Palais in Paris in terms of its beauty and ● spectacular architecture. “Other than the Grand Palais, Jude Law has finalized the terms of his divorce from there is no other building like this in the world,” says Sadie Frost, and it’s going to cost him $12 million, nearly Sixtine Crutchfield, the fair’s general manager. half of his $30 million fortune. Frost will keep the $8 ● million London town house she lives in with her four ● Along cultural lines, do you know that Rosamond children and will receive an additional $4 million, half in Social Notes From All Over: Is it old news that Bernier’s great personal knowledge of artists and the art cash and the rest spread out over four years. Jude will Cameron Diaz was punched in the face by model Coralie world is the reason she has lectured at the Metropolitan also pay for nannies, medical care and education for the Eicholtz at Jimmyz nightclub in Monte Carlo after Diaz, Museum of Art more than 200 times? That and because children until college time. After three days in court who was trying to make her way through the crowd, she is a fascinating presence at the podium, confident they came to an agreement over the telephone. All’s accidentally stepped on Coralie’s dress causing it to rip and and eloquent, usually wearing something special by well that ends well (on second thought, maybe not Coralie to fall? That’s all I know about that and maybe Oscar de la Renta. People are still talking about her terribly well for Jude). more than you want to know about that. lecture titled “My Friend Max Ernst,” which she gave ● Whatever, Cameron must have rolled with the punch for earlier in the summer in conjunction with the museum’s Penélope Cruz will start shooting Pedro she, Drew Barrymore and Lucy Liu are calling in their kung exhibition of Ernst’s work. Almodóvar’s new movie “Volver” in Spain later this fu trainers because Drew is hoping to produce a third When I say personal knowledge, I mean it. Rosamond month. The director says the film is about “female “Charlie’s Angels” movie. Just now Barrymore is making lived at Ernst’s Paris apartment during a difficult divorce. solidarity.” That again. The movie is all about three “Lucky You,” a movie about poker playing in Las Vegas Hers, not Ernst’s. She is quick to say that he was one of generations of women with Carmen Maura as the with Robert Downey Jr. and Robert Duvall. Her romance the best-looking men who ever lived, and that some of the mother and Penélope as one of her two daughters. As with drummer Fabrizio Moretti is still steady as she goes, most beautiful women of his day were madly in love with for the wardrobe, Almodovar says Penélope will wear but in spite of that, she’s not ready for any little kiddies him. Was she one of them? (P.S. Rosamond has been “vulgar, cheap clothes” throughout the movie. Female crawling around soon. When she is ready, she’ll be really happily married to the prominent art critic John Russell solidarity? ready and she’ll tell us so. for many years.) CRUZ PHOTO BYJAMIE MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE; DIAZ BY JEFFREY MAYER/WIREIMAGE; FROST BY CRAIG DUNSMUIR/WIREIMAGE CRAIG FROST BY JEFFREY MAYER/WIREIMAGE; DIAZ BY MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE; CRUZ PHOTO BYJAMIE WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 5 WWD.COM Burberry Sets Limited-Edition Scent, Plans Masterbrand

LONDON — Burberry has un- Burberry’s scents in the U.S. lion at retail — a 20 percent rise Gold, created by Givaudan’s earthed a glittering prize for its Earlier this year, Burberry over 2004. Burberry Antoine Lie, opens with femi- most faithful fragrance fans. Brit Red scooped the Fifi Award Last fall, Inter Parfums ex- Brit Gold nine, floral notes of magnolia In the fall, the company will for Best Women’s Fragrance in tended its licensing agreement and neroli, mixed with black launch Burberry Brit Gold, a the Nouveau Niche category with Burberry for another 12 currant and ultrafresh berg- limited-edition fragrance that (USA), and Burberry Brit for years, boosted royalty payments amot. The heart is drawn from will roll out to the brand’s top men won Best Men’s Fragrance and created the new opera- pink iris, amber and vanilla — customers internationally for the common denominator in all the holiday season. [Burberry Brit Gold] offers the customer the Burberry Brit fragrances. Meanwhile, Burberry is The drydown is a blend of sexy working on a new masterbrand a“ different option for a different mood. musks and sandalwood. to be launched next year. ” And while Gold may round Marcella Cacci, president of — Marcella Cacci, Burberry Fragrances out the Burberry Brit offer, it Burberry Fragrances, a division certainly won’t be the last of Inter Parfums SA, told WWD of the Year in the Luxe category tional division called Burberry flanker. “It’s a strong franchise in an exclusive interview her (USA and UK). Sources estimate Fragrances. Burberry Brit Gold and we have other projects team was currently hammering that sales this year of all the is the first fragrance to be planned. There are a lot of fu- out the details. Burberry men’s and women’s launched under the new divi- ture opportunities,” Cacci said. Burberry Brit Gold, an “am- fragrances will reach $550 mil- sion, which is based in Paris. — Samantha Conti bery Oriental,” is aimed at Burberry Brit fans in search of a glamorous scent for evening. It flanks Burberry Brit, a fresh, green Oriental and Burberry Three Major Fashion Events Collectively At The Javits Brit Red, a more sensual “gour- mand Oriental.” “It’s a very special, very focused product,” said Cacci during an interview at Burberry’s sleek and polished offices near Piccadilly Circus here. “It’s still an Oriental fragrance, so it BEAUTY BEAT makes sense within the Brit family. But it offers the customer a different option for a different mood — and it’s more of a night scent.” Gold will come in two sizes — a 50-ml. and 100-ml. eau de par- fum — priced at $58 and $78, respectively. The rectangular bot- tle, designed by Fabien Baron, is similar to the other Brit con- tainers, but looks as if it’s been dipped in liquid, metallic gold. The color, Cacci noted, echoes both the runway trends for the fall and, of course, the holiday mood. In the U.S., Gold will launch exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue and Burberry retail stores in late September. A month later, it will be rolled out to Burberry’s best customers, or about 10,000 doors worldwide. In the U.S., it will also sell at Neiman Marcus, July 31 - August 2 Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman Sun-Mon 9-6, Tues 9-5 and Bloomingdale’s. While Cacci declined to give Javits Center sales projections, industry sources say Gold will generate Manhattan $15 million at retail internationally. The U.S. is expected to generate a total of $4 million at retail. 2,100+ Lines Cacci said the company was spending $1 million on promot- Holiday/Resort 2005-06 ing Gold — mostly in-store, point- Immediate Fall/Winter 2005 of-sale and co-op advertising — over the three-month period. Burberry Brit has been a powerhouse brand for Inter register 203-853-6015 Parfums, and is expected to gen- exhibit 212-686-4412 erate a total of $245 million at Est. ’01 retail by the end of this year, ac- www.accessoriestheshow.com cording to industry sources. The www.modamanhattan.com brand currently accounts for 45 percent of all Burberry fra- www.fameshows.com grance sales. “The Brit franchise continues to surpass our expectations, and we are certain that Brit Gold AccessoriesTheShow, Moda Manhattan will continue to build the mo- and FAME are properties of Business mentum,” said Don Loftus, pres- Journals, Inc. ident and chief executive officer of Cosmopolitan Cosmetics U.S. Inc., whose firm distributes 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005

Rochas Burberry

Rockin’ the House WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 7 WWD.COM Azzaro Azzaro Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli PHOTOS BY SAKIS LALAPHOTOS BY AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE

Few designers meld cocktail chic with disco dash better than Roberto Cavalli, who played off floral prints in form-fitting shapes for cruise. Meanwhile, Olivier Theyskens’ cruise collection for Rochas took inspiration from Ingmar Bergman’s “Cries and Whispers,” resulting in dramatic gowns; arty, abstract prints, and loose silk dresses in lilac and pale blue, and Vanessa Seward’s first cruise collection for Azzaro channeled Roxy Music with suede trenchcoats paired with skirts and trousers. Elsewhere, Christopher Bailey took to the waves for Burberry’s cruise line with nautical-inspired fare such as short, cropped jackets; navy trenches, and high-waisted trousers. 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 WWD.COM Tisci to Present an Edgier Givenchy

By Miles Socha At present, women’s rtw represents only about 20 per- Tisci is the fourth designer to helm Givenchy since the cent of direct revenues, versus 40 percent for men. 1995 retirement of its founder, following in the footsteps of PARIS — Riccardo Tisci, the new 30-year-old couturier The new fashion direction will be announced via a John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald. at Givenchy, says he was “shocked” — in a good way — fall campaign, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and And although the house has failed to ignite a critical or when he discovered the vast archive of house founder Vinoodh Matadin. It features Tisci’s muse and favorite commercial renaissance à la Gucci, Dior or Chloé, Tisci Hubert de Givenchy. model, Maria Carla Boscono, in a voluminous chiffon said past struggles represent no impediment to him. “I just “He did so many amazing things,” Tisci said in an outfit he created especially for the shoot. really want to respect the past, but do Givenchy for 2005,” interview, his first since joining the house last March A relatively unknown designer, Italian-born Tisci was he said. “I’m here to try and make this work as a style.” and on the eve of his couture debut Thursday. “After I seen as a surprising choice for a plum couture post at And what are its hallmarks? Tisci threw out the words went to the archive, I was happier than before.” LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. He’s aware there elegant, aristocratic, chic and French, but with a touch of A frank and pensive young man partial to skateboard are legions doubtful of his readiness for couture and his irony or a “twist of craziness.” clothes, Tisci confessed his knowledge of Givenchy’s ability to lead a sleepy and unprofitable brand out of Tisci declined to preview any couture looks, eager not fashion legacy was meager, limited to the one book he fashion’s doldrums. to diminish the surprise factor. For inspiration, his mind studied at Central Saint Martins fashion school in went to the film “Beauty and the Beast” by Jean Cocteau London. And, like most people, his mind immediately Riccardo Tisci and the iconic work of Federico Fellini. Still, the went to the late actress Audrey Hepburn, still the ulti- Givenchy archive from 1951 to 1995 remains the essential mate icon for the house. reference, with Tisci promising to show a range of But Tisci figures it’s high time to move on. “Audrey, I clothes from day to evening. love it, but Givenchy is not only that for me,” he said. “It’s He described the couture collection as “very matte,” much more.” mostly in black and white but with a hint of glitter and

To illustrate his point, Tisci produced photos of STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY subtle color. As for silhouettes, he described them as soft rarely seen Givenchy looks from the early Fifties that and fluid, even for tailored ensembles. would have been radical then and still could be seen as Having already created some looks for three couture edgy today. These include a white head scarf printed clients, Tisci said he senses a need for more “relaxed with trompe l’oeil hair braids, a cape with a dramatic and easy” clothes, which, while still spectacular, are hood and a strapless black cocktail dress with a train meant for an active life. exploding out of the bustier. Tisci’s recent presentations in Milan for his own line “Very clean and severe, with a touch of romance” is have had a strong theatrical and artistic bent. Last how he described these Givenchy looks — and his own March, he had models strolling through an incense- fashion sensibility. choked warehouse and posing in front of a wooden cross. Tisci’s pre-spring collection for Givenchy, being shown His Givenchy presentation Thursday will not be a stan- to buyers here this week, certainly suggests an edgier, dard runway show, but more of an installation where slightly darker and unapologetically modern mood. In response, Tisci described himself as a self-made guests, possibly standing, will mingle with the models. Mostly in black, with butter and sage tones for relief, the man, who scrabbled his way out of a large family with plen- Still, the designer insists commercial success is a big collection leans to minimal sportswear with unusual ty of love, but meager financial means. (His mother, wid- priority for him, pointing out that his first job out of fash- details. Key looks include jersey dresses with trans- owed when he was six, had eight daughters before him.) ion school was with the activewear giant Puma. “You can formable necklines; lean pants, occasionally with built-in Tisci started supporting himself at the age of 12, make dreams all you want, but fashion needs to sell,” he corsets, and soft jackets with zippered lapels revealing a working as a delivery boy, florist’s assistant, store clerk said. “It’s much more modern right now.” ruff — a wink to Givenchy’s famous “rose” jacket. and carpenter to save money for art school abroad. At 16, In his spare time, Tisci indulges an interest in con- Givenchy chief executive Marco Gobbetti said initial he landed a job designing fabrics for an Italian textile temporary and modern art and music from opera to trade reaction to the new direction has been positive, and firm, at which point his destiny became clear. A year rhythm and blues. He’s also an avid collector of bird and he predicted an immediate uptick in wholesale distribu- later, he was at Saint Martins and earning British schol- animal bones and skulls, religious paraphernalia and tion in the U.S. and Europe, which to date has been spotty. arships that allowed him to finish his degree. photographs, especially Polaroids. For example, Givenchy women’s ready-to-wear only can be While his résumé shows stints at Antonio Berardi, “I like things that give me emotion,” he explained. found in America in its New York flagship on Madison Coccapani and Ruffo Research, Tisci has long had an “It’s something important for me to get and give back Avenue and in “a handful” of independent boutiques. eponymous label — suspended for the time being — that as a person.” “The key for us is to reposition the women’s depart- is essentially a one-man operation. “I’ve always been To be sure, Tisci’s emotions will be running high ment,” Gobbetti said. “We are now targeting department doing stuff by myself, with my hands,” he explained. “I Thursday. His mother and six of his eight sisters are slat- stores and specialty stores.” know how to make a pattern and how to sew.” ed to attend his Paris fashion debut.

stakes in the Antwerp-based houses of Ann Demeulemeester and men’s Fashion Scoops designer Dirk Schonberger, confirmed on Sunday during the Paris men’s Porsche Design, Ferragamo Team for Line STAR CHARTS: The couture shows kick shows that she’s also invested in Haider off in Paris today with what looks like Ackermann’s fledgling label. She said By Alessandra Ilari Porsche Design project as a coherent and no shortage of celebrity wattage. Tina the deal would help the critically strong platform for the luxury goods house’s Turner, Usher and Molly Sims are acclaimed Ackermann to expand his MILAN — Porsche Design Group has found a co- future growth. expected at Giorgio Armani Privè; business, while profiting from driver for its push into the luxury accessories “We are very careful with the partners we Drew Barrymore, Christina Aguilera, production synergies with her other race — Ferragamo Finanziaria SpA. select for our new projects and we view Porsche Zhang Ziyi and Charlize Theron, the fashion interests. Meantime, Chapelle The two companies will announce today that Design as a company in tune with Ferragamo in face of J’Adore perfume, are rumored said Demeulemeester, who staged her they have signed a long-term partnership for the terms of family values and strategies,” said to be the headliners at Christian Dior; first men’s fashion show in Paris on production and distribution of accessories. The Leonardo Ferragamo, who supervises new busi- and Valentino awaits the likes of Monday, is exploring new avenues for new line, which makes its debut in November, ness development for Ferragamo Finanziaria. Gwyneth Paltrow, Sheryl Crow (taking a growth. To wit: the designer has started will be made up of footwear with a men’s focus, “This partnership follows other ones already break from watching companion work on her first fragrance, which luggage, briefcases, belts and small leather goods. in place and is a further step in the implemen- Lance Armstrong race in the Tour de could bow as early as next year. While a spokeswoman for Ferragamo said it tation of our strategy to leverage the compe- France) and Rita Wilson, who may or was premature to disclose details, she described tences of our core business outside the may not bring her husband Tom SURF’S UP: “I just love the whole the line as sporty, technological and innovative in Salvatore Ferragamo brand,” he said. “This Hanks, who is in Paris filming “The surfing culture and vibe,” said James terms of design and materials. Da Vinci Code” at locations including Perse, who designed T-shirts, flip- project will enable us to focus on what we do The Ritz hotel and the Louvre. flops, bikinis, skirts and other “Ferragamo’s outstanding history and strong best: develop and produce luxury footwear and products exclusively for his new surf- competence in the luxury market, its top level leather accessories.” CAPITAL MAN: Three months after he inspired store at the Malibu Country expertise and extensive international distribu- Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, grandson of left as chairman of France’s PPR retail Mart, his third in Malibu. Perse, who tion facilities and skilled infrastructure sets the the car company’s founder and designer of the and luxury conglomerate, Serge recently took up surfing and residence ideal stage for a partnership with Porsche renowned Porsche 911, originally established Weinberg is ready for the next chapter. in Malibu, was busy collecting surfing Design,” Siegmund Rudigier, president and chief Porsche Design in 1972. Under the auspices of His Weinberg Capital Partners pointers from local residents at a executive officer of the Porsche Design Group, PLH (Porsche Lizenz- und Handelsgesellschaft), investment firm has been approved by party to celebrate the store sponsored said in a statement released exclusively to WWD the German company founded in 2003 to consoli- France’s market watchdog and has by Cargo magazine while entertaining on Tuesday. date Porsche’s nonautomotive activities, Porsche raised 380 million euros — or close to guests such as Judy Greer, Jean In an interview, Rudigier added: “When we Design aims to double its sales in the next four to $450 million — for leveraged buyouts. Tripplehorn, Michelle Trachtenberg, started developing this project, we immediately five years. In 2004, Porsche Design’s global Weinberg, who is busy raising more Woody Harrelson and Famke Janssen, thought that Ferragamo would be the perfect wholesale turnover, via 7,900 sales points, money, said the fund is “studying” who had to ride a wave of autograph match. The idea is to combine their excellent reached $80 million. several potential investments in hunters shoving 8-by-10 glossies of craftsmanship with German engineering tech- There are midterm plans to open 55 Porsche medium-sized companies in France herself to sign. Meanwhile, Matthew niques to develop unusual materials for a top- Design stores based on Matteo Thun’s design for and Europe. The only sector he said he Perry, David Arquette and Courtney Cox line product.” the Berlin store. By the end of July, Porsche won’t invest in is high technology. Arquette made a splash with their He said Porsche Design is finalizing another Design will open in London and Hamburg, and appearances dining at Nobu a few partnership with an Italian company, this time in the rollout will continue this fall with a store on THREE’S COMPANY: Anne Chapelle, the doors down, but never quite managed the apparel sector. Belgian businesswoman who owns to make it to the party. Madison Avenue in New York and in Tokyo’s Leonardo Ferragamo said he views the Ginza district. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 9 WWD.COM

for 12 months as chief operating Asda revealed the cuts three officer of Wal-Mart in Canada, days after Wal-Mart said comp- Asda Plans to Lay Off 1,400 will become chief operating offi- store sales in its U.S. stores rose cer and trading director at Asda. 4.5 percent in June, exceeding By Samantha Conti “We have to get fit, and that’s a Bond added he was confident Cheesewright replaces Bond, the company’s own guidance of painful process. Moreover, we about Asda’s smaller supermar- who left that role to become 2 to 4 percent. This marks Wal- LONDON — Asda, Wal-Mart’s don’t want to gain back the extra ket formats, the stand-alone president and ceo. Cheesewright Mart’s biggest monthly gain in European division, plans to lay off pounds.” George stores, and the future of will begin Oct. 1. 13 months. Strength was seen in 1,400 workers in a bid to cut costs Bond said at a press confer- nonfood. “I see nonfood as part of Andy Clarke, 41, will return seasonal merchandise during and regain its share of the in- ence Tuesday that the costs of the overall reason of why people to Asda as retail director, a posi- the reporting period. For the tensely competitive U.K. market. running a major retail chain want to shop at Asda,” he said. tion he left in 2002 to work at week, general merchandise Some 200 management jobs were climbing at a dizzying rate. The press conference was Matalan and Iceland. Clarke, comps were stronger than food. will be phased out at the compa- “Next year, fixed costs will be held at the new London design who will also be responsible for The Northeast was the ny’s head office in Yorkshire, circa 20 percent higher than last studio Asda has opened for Asda’s financial services busi- strongest region. and 1,200 retail management po- year for all retailers. The tread- George, its $1.76 billion, or 1 bil- ness, will begin Sept. 1. Wall Street took the strong sitions at Asda stores will be cut mill for running a business is lion pound, clothing and acces- Angela Spindler, 42, will take Wal-Mart results as an indica- in order to focus on frontline getting steeper.” sories label. The company is re- on the new role of customer and tion that perhaps gas prices customer service. Asda employs Bond said he wasn’t satisfied inforcing the infrastructure be- strategy director on Oct. 1. She aren’t weakening consumer 140,000 people in the U.K. with Asda’s “average perform- hind George, with the goal of will be responsible for market- spending. Shares of Wal-Mart “It’s as if we woke up, looked ance” this year. “Our natural turning it into an international ing, the Asda brand, customer closed Tuesday at $49.80, up in the mirror and realized we’d home is out performance, and fashion brand. service, format development $1.52, or 3.15 percent, in New gotten flabby,” said Andy Bond, today’s changes put in place the Bond also disclosed several and business strategy. She was York Stock Exchange trading. who took over as president and teams that will reignite our busi- management changes. David formerly trading and marketing — With contributions from chief executive officer in March. ness over the next 12-18 months.” Cheesewright, 43, who served director at the store. Sharon Edelson, New York Jewelry Firms

Form Council Since 1830, Woolrich has been part of the fabric of the great outdoors. We proudly celebrate our 175th anniversary For Standards in 2005 and take comfort in knowing that Woolrich By Sophia Chabbott feels just as right today as it did back then. Enjoy the natural, authentic NEW YORK — At a time when di- tradition of a true American legend. amond and gold mining practices in developing countries have come under pressure, firms within the diamond and gold jewelry industry have launched the Council for Responsible Jewelry Practices. The nonprofit organization, based in Johannesburg, South Africa, is committed to promot- ing responsible business practices throughout the industry, from mining to retailing. The creation of the organization comes as jewelry is experiencing a stellar year, and many retailers and vendors anticipate double-digit growth by the fourth quarter. In a statement, the CRJP said it will reinforce confidence in the diamond and gold supply chain by creating a “Responsible Practices Framework” that would establish ethical, social and environmental standards for all mem- NATURAL. AUTHENTIC. WOOLRICH. bers, and promote awareness of those issues by working with stakeholders, trade organizations and government representatives. The 14 founding companies include Diamond Trading Co., Jewelers of America, Rosy Blue N.V., Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Zale Corp. Diamond Trading Co. is the sales and marketing arm of the De Beers Group. “We’re at the beginning stages of this,” said David Sternblitz, vice president and treasurer of the Women’s Dahlia Zip, Zale Corp., based in Irving, Tex. Men’s Windom Pullover “From Zale’s perspective, anything that adds transparency to the purchase, where the customer can feel good about an emotional purchase like jewelry — it’s really important to build a standard. ” Michael J. Kowalski, chairman of Tiffany & Co., said in a statement, “By acting together, we can be more effective in setting responsible business standards to improve situations that ultimately will reinforce consumer confidence in our indus- Visit us online at www.woolrich.com. Or call 1-800-995-1299, ext. 660 try. Tiffany has committed to ad- for a dealer representative in your area. hering to the council’s princi- ples in our own business and to promote adherence with our business partners.” 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 WWD.COM In the Mainstream

Moderate firms feel the heat as mass retailers bring fashion forward, and designers try reality TV in hopes of a sales boost.

MASS APPEAL Target is becoming more NEW YORK — As Target and Wal-Mart up their fashion fashionable, which could be a quotients, moderate department store vendors have danger to moderate sportswear their work cut out for them. vendors at department stores. Target is pushing its Isaac Mizrahi and Mossimo collections and Wal-Mart, which has a deal with Levi’s and labels such as White Stag and George, is eager to move in a more fashionable direction. As a result, more consumers are looking to the mass merchandisers for their apparel purchases. According to Retail Forward, 90 percent of U.S. consumers visited Wal-Mart last year. And with more stores planned, covering more ground, that 90 percent could increase and produce dramatic results in the coming years. The company is projected to reach $500 billion in sales in 2010, nearly double the $285 billion last year. Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at the Port Washington, N.Y.-based NPD Group, predicted the moderate sportswear market could be in a lot of trouble if vendors don’t change their ways. “The world has become a smaller place; as the The George brand at Targets and Kmarts of the world are becoming more Wal-Mart has the potential trend-driven, the moderate vendors are really starting to be a fashion leader. to feel the pressure to match that kind of competition,” he said. “They can no longer put just anything on the dresses, as well as ownership of hip-hop brands Phat the trends and developing product there. We also have floor. They have to be fast and think more about fash- Farm and Baby Phat. an office in China and another in Guatemala. ion trends. Retailers aren’t taking the sorts of risks that Even Kohl’s has been working on its fashion assort- “Understanding the need for international offices is they used to take; even private labels are no ment and has been pushing more exclusives as it important to speed up the process. It’s really helped us longer offering just the basics. These moder- has with its Daisy Fuentes and axcess brands. to replenish goods and cater to what the stores are ask- ate vendors have to step up.” In addition, the store offers such well- ing for at a much faster pace,” Spier said. Some of the majors — Liz Claiborne known names as Lee, Adidas and Wal-Mart already dominates in many product cate- Inc., Jones Apparel Group and Kellwood Dockers. Sears, too, which owns the gories, including food and health and beauty products. Its Co. — are feeling the pressure and have Lands’ End brand, carries the basics plans for growth include an aggressive push into the ap- already started to make some changes. exclusively in its stores. And J.C. parel industry, offering more than just the basics, which While the Liz Claiborne label ac- Penney is building a higher fashion is what now dominates the apparel sections of the store. counts for $1.4 billion of the firm’s WWprofile with labels such as Bisou Bisou “All Wal-Mart does is apparel basics,” said Alfred $4.6 billion overall volume, the com- and Nicole by Nicole Miller. Meyers, vice president of business development for pany has aggressively worked to diver- 2 Another trouble spot for moderate Retail Forward. “J.C. Penney gets exclusive designers sify itself. It now owns and operates 38 What to Watch vendors is the speed factor. While mass and celebrities and brands. Wal-Mart needs to create diverse brands (from Juicy Couture to stores are going to vendors that can supply some excitement in the stores.” Emma James). But Claiborne is still keep- product fast and cheap, department stores While mass retailers are growing and thriving, they ing its hand in the moderate business, with selling moderate brands must find new ways to are still facing their own challenges. As gas prices con- plans to launch six brands this year — all for the keep the pace up, prices down and style right. tinue to rise, consumers are feeling the pressures of midtier retailer. Jones Apparel Group is also working Some moderate sportswear companies have already the economy, which undoubtedly influence how much to grow with its newly acquired Barneys New York begun to step up the pace. spending they do at retail. deal, planning for major expansion, along with its own “In the old days, like five years ago, one would shop So what does the moderate sector need to do to large brand portfolio ranging from Nine West to Anne Europe for the trends, come back to report and we compete with the power of mass retailers? Klein. Kellwood, whose moderate Sag Harbor line is would produce merchandise based on those trends,” “The key is to be what Wal-Mart is not,” Meyers said. still the company’s most profitable label, is getting its said Jonathan Spier, chief executive officer of Apparel “Invest in exclusivity, and create a shopping ‘experi- hand into new areas with women’s sportswear licenses Holdings Group, which produces the Caribbean Joe ence.’ ” such as O Oscar and Izod, and Liz Claiborne suits and line. “Now we are going directly from Europe, seeing — Julee Greenberg

A REALITY CHECK But that was all before Hilfiger be- NEW YORK — Industry insiders already came a reality TV star. As host of CBS’s know all the drama that goes on in fashion, “The Cut,” Hilfiger executives are confi- and now the rest of the world is finding out. dent the program can only improve his Designers are looking to boost their overall business. celebrity by venturing more and more into “To have that brand exposure on a na- the world of reality TV — or the fashion tional basis for the next 12 weeks is pretty planet, at any rate. good for the brand,” said David Dyer, pres- Kimora Lee Simmons has been a judge ident and chief executive officer of on “America’s Next Top Model,” which cer- Hilfiger, when the show made its debut. tainly helped build awareness of her Baby And maybe it will. Early signs indicate Phat line. Sean “P. Diddy” Combs appears the program is doing well. According to CBS, on MTV’s “Making Da Band,” where he’s Nielsen Ratings showed that the debut always decked out in Sean John, and episode, which aired on June 9, won its time Russell Simmons’ “Def Poetry Jam” on period in households and viewers, with 6.6 HBO brings Phat Farm to the forefront. million people tuning in. “The Cut” even Even Michael Kors was a regular judge beat out ABC’s coverage of the NBA finals on Bravo’s “Project Runway,” the first sea- that evening. It won the hour in the second son of which wrapped last February. The week, and lost out to the NBA finals in the second season will air in the fall, and while third week. If “The Cut” continues to do Heidi Klum will return as the host, the fash- well, sources said it could start shooting a ion designer on the panel of judges has yet new round of episodes in October. to be named. Kors timed his TV debut well Based on its success, networks are sure — showing up on the small screen while Tommy Hilfiger in his New York showroom, on the set of CBS’s “The Cut.” Michael Kors to be looking into digging deeper into the launching new categories such as bags and judged “Project Runway” on Bravo. fashion industry, possibly asking other de- footwear to support his better sportswear signers to host their reality shows. But line, Michael Michael Kors. It’s all part of a grand scheme for the designer to build a $1 whether or not reality TV can help fashion companies improve their performance billion brand — so some regular TV appearances could only help his name recognition. remains to be seen. Then there’s Tommy Hilfiger. His company is going through its fair share of trou- While stores continue to be upbeat about Michael Michael Kors (Macy’s East re- bles — Tommy Hilfiger Corp. just reported a 45.9 percent drop in its preliminary net cently expanded the brand into all of its stores), there have been some signs of trou- income for fiscal 2005 and is in discussions with state and local tax authorities in ble since its introduction. When Kors announced the launch of the collection in New York and state authorities in New Jersey to settle an income tax issue for its September, 2003, the company hired a team of executives to run it, only to let 25 peo- subsidiary, Tommy Hilfiger Licensing Inc. Then there’s the ongoing investigation by ple go a year later. The company also had problems shipping to stores on time, and the U.S. Attorney’s Office into Hilfiger’s buying office commissions, which has re- retailers were initially complaining about an inconsistent fit, problems the company sulted in 11 purported shareholder class-action lawsuits against the company as said it has solved — all issues that “Project Runway” couldn’t fix. well as current and former officers and directors of the firm. — J.G. HILFIGER PHOTO BY CRAIG BLANKENHORN/CBS CRAIG HILFIGER PHOTO BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 11 WWD.COM Designer/Bridge Sportswear Designer fashion is at a crossroads with new entries, brand SWEET SUCCESS makeovers and a somber collection by Marc Jacobs that’s bound PARIS — Calvin and Anne will have another Klein in their midst. to influence fashion for seasons to come. Bolstered by his recent success in the U.S. market, French designer Michel Klein is broadening his repertoire and planning to introduce a secondary line with a show in September in New York. THE MOODY TURN Last year, the affable Klein took a step upmarket, launching a line called NEW YORK — Just how will Marc Jacobs’ Cher Michel Klein, a play on the French word for expensive and dear. controversial fall collection affect New “It’s been a great success so far,” said the designer, dragging on a Marlboro York Fashion Week’s spring shows this Light in his silver-walled Paris studio. September? Klein said Cher is now stocked in some 35 boutiques around the world, in- Jacobs’ dark and brooding collection, cluding Bergdorf Goodman, Maxfield, Neiman Marcus and Tootsies in the U.S. inspired by the sullen teenager Violet To build on that success, he has hired New York sales agent Michael Incredible of “The Incredibles,” offered a Atchison to represent him. Furthermore, he’s gearing up to launch in the U.S. darker vision of fashion that Seventh a secondary line called Sweet Michel Klein, which will retail at about 40 per- Avenue hadn’t seen in years. While many cent less than Cher. other New York designers still favored Sweet, which will wholesale from 70 euros, or $82.60 at current exchange, pretty and ladylike looks, Jacobs offered a for a blouse to 150 euros, or $177, for a dress, supplants Klein’s former diffu- stark contrast that split critics and retail- sion line, called MK. Klein introduced it quietly in France and the U.K. this ers. But by the time the fall shows spring, selling to Selfridges, Galeries Lafayette and Colette. wrapped up in Paris, it was clear Jacobs “Sweet is much more fashion-forward than MK was,” Klein explained. “I was on to something: the likes of Miuccia think it’s suited very well to the American market.” Prada and Rochas’ Olivier Theyskens He continued, “Cher is more about Parisian chic and timeless elegance. were on similar wavelengths with more But Sweet will be more about seasonal pieces.” somber collections that lightly referenced Klein said he wished to launch Sweet in New York because the American Nineties minimalism. market has been so receptive to Cher. Their influence is likely to become “I thought it would be good to go to the clients,” he quipped. crystal clear come the fall shows. While Klein said sales for his Paris-based fashion business this year are on line Seventh Avenue designers may not whole- to reach some 2.4 million euros, or $2.8 million, up from 1.4 million euros last heartedly embrace Jacobs’ extreme vol- year. He attributed the gain mostly to the success of Cher. umes and dark velvet and tulle gowns for Meanwhile, Klein is on the cusp of launching his first scent, Cher Michel spring, they might abandon the frills of Klein, in partnership with L’Oréal. past seasons and focus on a darker palette He said it would be a “luxury” juice “that doesn’t smell of flowers.” It is of colors. expected to launch in October at the Paris ready-to-wear shows, he said, “Americans can’t get as sober and so- adding that Peter Lindberg will shoot the advertising, which is to fea- phisticated as Europeans can and sell it,” ture model Astrid Munoz. said David Wolfe, creative director at The — Robert Murphy Doneger Group. “I think we will do our own version of the somber mood, which will be less sexy and less kitschy. We are A look from going to see things that C.Z. Guest would Marc Jacobs’ WW have worn.” fall collection. 2 — Marc Karimzadeh What to Watch

Dana Buchman’s Boca Raton store.

DANA’S NEW DIGS NEW YORK — Things are on the move at Dana Buchman. Last month, the bridge sports- Models wearing Sweet. wear company opened a 2,000-square-foot boutique at Boca Raton’s Town Center in Boca Raton, Fla., and it has plans to unveil a 3,200-square-foot store at the Forum Shops in Las Vegas later this month. Both stores feature a new retail look for the Liz Claiborne brand. The plan is to roll THE VINTAGE ERA? out the concept to Dana Buchman’s other four stores, starting with its 57th Street flag- NEW YORK — The Nineties had minimalism, and the Eighties, excess and ship, which will temporarily close down later this year for renovation. shoulder pads, which leads to the question: What will the double-zeros be re- The new stores take a more personalized approach. Features include Florentine membered for? wallpaper, taffeta silk drapes in fitting rooms and antique Venetian mirrors, and eclectic Historically, the defining trend of a decade emerges in its second half, furniture handpicked by the designer for each location. which makes this the time to watch closely to determine what fashions will “Each store will have unique features,” said Laura Dubin Wander, the company’s shape the first 10 years of the new millennium. So far, vintage has been a key president. “They will have the same general feel or aesthetic, but there will be real theme with designers, who jump back and forth each season between unique pieces in each store….We are really looking to make our retail shops a think tank decades such as the Seventies, Forties, Sixties and Eighties. Celebrities, too, for the Dana Buchman brand.” have embraced the vintage trend, with stars such as Mary-Kate Olsen, Reese The stores offer exclusive pieces not available at wholesale. They also feature a new pro- Witherspoon, Selma Blair and Julia Roberts favoring it on the red carpet. gram called Dana’s Picks. Every store will devote a selling area to pieces that reflect At a recent seminar on color and trends, however, J.C. Penney’s trend di- Buchman’s personal interests. These could range from her favorite books to DVDs she liked, rector for women’s apparel and accessories, David Hacker, said fashion is a scented candle she bought for her home or bowls she may have seen on a trip abroad. “We “on the brink of something new” after years of retrospective influence. want to make the stores reflective of Dana Buchman the person,” Dubin Wander said. “We’re starting to see a departure,” he said. Dubin Wander declined to disclose sales for the brand, though a market source esti- Others remain convinced vintage is here to stay. “Fashion since World War mated it to have annual wholesale volume of more than $150 million. As for the future, II moved so quickly that we simply did everything possible with it,” said Dubin Wander said the company is exploring international growth opportunities and is David Wolfe, creative director at The Doneger Group. “There is nothing new looking to build an accessories business. to do unless we produce new textiles or find some new way to construct “We have been on a growth plan for the last couple of years, and we are really starting clothing. Since that’s in the realm of science fiction, all we can do is keep dig- to get a nice momentum going,” she said. ging into the past and finding things that are relevant for right now.” — M.K. — M.K. MARC JACOBS PHOTOMARC BY DAVID TURNER; BUCHMAN BY ROBERT SADLER CLARK 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 Growing Belk Keeps Fo

Belk, Spring Hill, Fla.

Continued from page one McRae’s reflects more progressive management at Belk. Lauren and cosmetics brands like Estée Lauder — they expand our footprint into important markets within our After the death of company president Thomas Belk may find without a trip to a metropolitan area. Belk em- primary trading area.” in March 2004, his sons took over. Thomas “Tim” Belk beds itself in communities, sponsoring high school foot- Belk, the largest privately held U.S. department store Jr., 48, became chairman and ceo; H.W. McKay Belk, 47, ball and other events, in the manner of Main Street company, closed on the deal Tuesday. It paid Saks Inc. co-president and chief merchandising officer, and John merchants of another era. $622 million and assumed $1 million in capitalized “Johnny” Belk, 45, co-president and chief operating offi- Jan Martinez, president of Ashford Management, lease obligations and other liabilities to add 47 stores cer. The three are nephews of former ceo John Belk, 84, an Atlanta retail executive recruiting firm that has and an estimated $700 million in annual sales. The named chairman emeritus last year after 59 worked for Belk, said the values that made the stores are to be absorbed under the Belk nameplate by years with the firm, and grandsons of Wil- company may have also slowed it down. fall 2006, giving the Charlotte, N.C.-based retailer a total liam Henry Belk, who founded the com- “It’s like the guy you marry because of 275 units in 14 Southern states and projected annual pany in 1888. he’s generous and then divorce because sales of about $3.15 billion. Last year, Belk opened 14 Family members declined re- he gave all the money away,” she said. stores, renovated eight and expanded three. quests for interviews. “They made sure everything they’ve Amid continuing retail consolidation, Belk — a fami- Belk, like all department stores, done is right, fair and wonderful, ly-owned chain like the larger Dillard’s — stands out. faces the challenge of differentiat- and they’ve watched everybody Call it the anti-Wal-Mart. It is rooted in small markets ing itself as well as maintaining its else grow all around them.” such as Greenwood, S.C. (pop. 22,071), and has grown to regional identity, Browning said. Whether or not Belk expands serve the booming outer suburbs of Atlanta. “We have to figure out how not beyond its comfort zone, the re- With similar demographics, Proffitt’s and McRae’s to be perceived as dinosaurs,” tailer hasn’t run out of places to will give Belk deeper penetration in Kentucky, Tenne- she said. “It starts with the cul- grow, said Scott Evans, a partner ssee, Mississippi and Louisiana, Pernotto said. Belk will ture of the company, being unique at Ernst & Young for real estate also open 12 stores this year. and embracing small vendors, advisory services in the Southeast. “Fifty-store chains are tough to run these days,” said being open to nontraditional mar- “There’s plenty of room for retail Toni Browning, president and chief executive officer of keting and special events.’’ expansion, in suburbs and exurbs Proffitt’s/McRae’s, who will stay with the company Retail experts said Belk can thrive that have had huge growth in cities like through September, when Proffitt’s Alcoa, Tenn., head- by offering small town America, a fertile, Atlanta,” Evans said. “In the future it will quarters closes. “To fight a Federated, something had to yet underserved market, life after Wal- be a challenge to have much new de- happen. For economy of scale and dealing with vendors, Mart. While Belk is in a few larger mar- The women’s department of partment store urban infill. These es- acquisitions make sense.’’ kets, such as Charlotte, it mostly targets Belk in Conyers, Ga. tablished regional retailers have their Belk might be a player for some units that Fed- towns with populations of about 20,000 formulas down and are quite successful erated must shed from its May Department Stores ac- and median household incomes of $30,000. at what they do.” quisition to eliminate store overlaps, or for smaller re- By avoiding direct competition with retail giants, Belk’s strategy fits in the current retail landscape, gional chains. Belk brings consumers the only high-end, branded Pernotto said. Industry experts said the deal for Proffitt’s and clothing — Jones New York, Liz Claiborne, Polo Ralph “There aren’t 12 new regional malls opening to put WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 13 WWD.COM Focus on South, for Now

12 new stores,’’ he said. “We’re not looking to be a mall- Cable & Gauge and Rafaella, and merchandised with based retailer. A downtown urban area, like Charlotte, printed novelty pants and skirts for summer. Prices N.C., may have 12,000 people living there, but is that BELK INC. range from about $20 to $60, but promotions during enough to sustain a store, given the rule of thumb — one Leadership: Thomas “Tim” Belk Jr., chairman and chief June ran sales from 25 to 50 percent off. square foot for one individual? We’re looking at popula- executive officer Catering to more suburban sensibilities, offerings tion trends that will support shopping patterns. When lean toward traditional and preppy, rather than trendy Founded: 1888 by William Henry Belk the population is right, the retailer will come.” merchandise. An exception is a small contemporary The vendor structures and promotional strategies of 2005 sales: $2.45 billion area called “New Directions,” which offers updated Belk and Proffitt’s/McRae’s are similar, but Prof- 2006 sales: $3.15 billion* looks such as lace-trimmed satin camisole tops and fitt’s/McRae’s women’s target market was a bit younger, 2005 net income: $124.1 million broomstick skirts by Uniform by John Paul Richard and 25 and up, compared with Belk’s sweet spot of 35 and AGB, a division of Byer of California. older, Browning said. Belk will benefit from absorbing 2005 net income growth: 11 percent Cosmetics areas carry the same lines as Proffitt’s/McRae’s well-developed private label pro- Headquarters: Charlotte, N.C. major departments stores, including gram, and the chains’ common geography and target Original slogan: “Cheap Goods Sell Lancôme, Clinique and Estée Lauder, markets create a good match, she said. Themselves” and shoe departments offer labels There are no immediate plans to close any Proffitt’s such as Easy Spirit, Lifestride and or McRae’s stores, although some overlap with existing Stores: 275 in 14 states other department store brands. Belk units. *ESTIMATED Capturing the hearts of small Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail strate- towns requires community in- gies, Kurt Salmon Associates, said Belk’s strategy has tion gave Belk an edge over other volvement and personal service, been updated with a focus on brands and streamlining retailers because Census figures areas where Belk excels, Vitner of operations and costs that has prepared it for growth, indicate that two-thirds of U.S. said. In addition to sponsoring including acquisitions. population growth in the next 25 community events and teams, serv- “The Proffitt’s/McRae’s deal, which will increase years will be in the South. ices include free alterations and their Southern imprint 30 to 40 percent, is an aggressive “People thought going head-to- free gift wrap for credit card cus- move that means the market and financial community head with Wal-Mart in small towns tomers, flexible exchange policies has confidence in them,” he said. “The stores are in the wasn’t smart,” Vitner said. “But not and limited interest-free credit cards, same terrain, with the same seasons and lifestyle, so everybody wants to shop Wal-Mart. Belk along with intangibles, such as friendly there’s a comfort level and minor risk, with only minor brings glitz and glamour to Main Street Amer- sales associates. cannibalizing.” ica. Belk is looking unique and desirable, like an The interior of Analysts agreed that do-the-right-thing ethics, A major restructuring in 1998 consolidated Belk’s old-line department store model that people Belk in always a key component of the Belk philosophy, 112 separate companies, which were started by thought was dead.” Southpark will continue regardless of size. And, as a family- founder William Henry Belk as the retailer expanded. In-store Belk shops, complete with signage Mall, near owned chain, Belk can control its destiny better Leaner operations, centralized buying and distribution and visuals, showcase sportswear brands. Richmond, Va. than publicly owned retailers that are subject to and a focus on name brands resulted in improving Misses’ career departments have in-store shops the pressures of Wall Street. sales that reached $2.45 billion in the fiscal year end- for Sag Harbor and Alfred Dunner. Misses’ private label “Their small-town charm is their greatest asset, and ing Jan. 29, 2005, up 8 percent from the same period sportswear, under the Madison Studio label, is promi- they won’t abandon it,” Vitner said. “But they can also the previous year. nently merchandised in the front of women’s depart- move into cities and do well. They can, and are, starting Senior economist Mark Vitner of Wachovia Corp., ments of Belk stores. Knits, in basic and novelty tops, to compete with bigger retailers. They can pick and based in Charlotte, said solidifying its Southern posi- are a big category, with colorful sweaters by Joseph A, choose when the time is right.”

Belk, Charlotte, N.C., in 1911. 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 WWD.COM WWD West Korean-Americans Spur L.A. Fashion District Boomlet

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller The future home of LA FACE. LOS ANGELES — Downtown real estate redevelopment here is taking root, reflected in an influx of fashion district projects owned by a new generation of Korean-Americans. A decade after the San Pedro Wholesale Mart opened in the fashion district, help- ing to give visibility to the Korean-American apparel community, the thriving area is raising its profile. Since last year, dozens of showrooms leased by Korean-Americans have opened along the key corridors of San Pedro and 12th Streets, feeding off the traffic of the San Pedro mart. Three weeks ago, the development company Los Angeles Fashion Center LP broke ground on a showroom project called LA FACE on San Pedro Street and 14th Place, located on the southeastern border of the fashion district. Expected to open in late 2006, the estimated $70 million development is 560,000 square feet and will offer 196 condominium showrooms ranging in price from $360,000 to $640,000. So far, 120 have been sold to Korean-American business owners and prices are projected to rise 15 to 20 percent in the next selling phase, said Alix Chang, operations manager of Khan Development Co., the sales and marketing arm for LA FACE. “We’re seeing tens of millions of dollars being poured into the district,” said Kent Smith, executive director of the L.A. Fashion District Business Improvement District, noting the area has added more than 200 businesses in the last two years. The momentum is at odds with employment figures in the industry. Los Angeles County had 107,700 apparel and textile jobs in 1999. That figure dropped 29 percent to 76,000 last year as companies went out of business or relocated, according to the Los Angeles County Economic Development Corp. Korean-American-owned But statistics don’t tell the entire story, said the organization’s chief economist, showrooms are opening Jack Kyser. There are an estimated 90,000 to 100,000 Korean-American garment work- on 12th Street. ers and manufacturers in the sector working in at least 2,100 companies. The increase comes as the Korean-American population in Los Angeles County reached 186,350 in 2000, up more than 28 percent compared with 1990, according to the latest census statistics. Korean-Americans represent an immigrant group that is becoming more prominent socially and economically. The neighborhood about 5 miles west of the fashion district, on Wilshire Boulevard, is the home of several new Korean-American-owned businesses. Developers are turning high-rise buildings into luxury apartments and offices. The corridor is home to the 336,000-square-foot Aroma Spa and Sports Center, which costs $24,000 to join. “We know Koreans are a major force in the industry, but as the economy shifts gears many aren’t being captured by established surveys,” Kyser said, because they work independently or are in the ebb and flow of family-run businesses. A growing wholesale buyer base, as in the apparel industry in general, is generat- ing demand for this city’s typically young contemporary fare. As a result, wholesale customers are shopping the Korean-American showrooms. Used to smaller, independent boutiques, these buyers appreciate the ease of ground-floor showrooms, available inventory and cash-and-carry policies. Bigger chains, such as Wet Seal, Forever 21 and Charming Shoppes, also are taking advantage of the fast-changing merchandise, said Ilse Metchek, executive director of the California Fashion Association. “The people there rep and often own the lines and can control production,” she said. The business model represents a shift from the way buyers typically work with SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY showrooms at downtown’s wholesaling epicenter, which is marketed as the Street, said a stream of buyers from small boutiques to the 5-7-9 store chain have been Intersection, constituting the California Market Center, the New Mart, the Cooper buying the line’s tunics and camisoles shipped from Brazil and adorned with beading, Design Space and the Gerry Building. The buildings, which operate with five buying crinkling and ribbons. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $15. markets a year and do not inventory merchandise, are also in the midst of change. “It’s been good,” she said. The Gerry Building is in escrow to a group of Los Angeles investors, said Larry Wizeman Kangavari, managing partner at K.I. Group, has spent about $20 million Hudson, the building’s general manager. The market center has been sold to Jamison to $30 million since 2001 opening four showroom developments housing accessories Properties, which is owned by David Lee, a Korean-American. and women’s wear. The company’s latest and biggest is Pico Regency Plaza, a 60,000- “We’re happy to see new buildings come on board,” said Ben Lee (no relation to square-foot building with 50 showrooms. He said Pico Regency, which is to open by David Lee), leasing director for the market center. “Los Angeles is at a point of ex- the end of the year, is 75 percent leased to Korean-American tenants. treme potential and we can all share in the wealth.” “You build it and they will come,” he said. The rise of Korean-American influence is reflected in the heightened competition Even if it’s not built, they are still flocking as real estate and rental prices soar. in the marketplace, particularly when it comes to denim and sportswear. Many in the Buildings such as the American Garment Center, which opened last year on San industry feel they have to raise the bar in terms of product quality and image to com- Pedro and Pico with 27 showrooms, are doubling in worth, said owner Kamran pete with fashionable products sold by mass marketers such as Target and Kmart. Gharibian. Rising rents are another reason for the appeal of showroom condos, a “They’re upgrading themselves,” said Samuel Kim, former president of the common business enterprise in South Korea and Asia, in a district where ground- Korean-American Garment Industry Association and owner of misses’ denim line Mu floor rents can command $8 to $10 a square foot, a price on par with the Third Street Jeans, sold at Nordstrom. “Before, the goods were cheaply made. Now they’re kicking Promenade in Santa Monica. up the workmanship, and to bring out the bigger pencils, they’re making the environ- An unconventional approach to renting space — a practice often requiring up- ment look better, as well.” front money and on-the-spot quotes — pushed Philip Chang to pay an estimated The new storefronts on 12th Street are emblematic of the approach. The colorful $360,000 for a unit at LA FACE, the project designed to resemble an indoor mall. buildings in hues of rust, yellow and sage feature showrooms with contemporary, Chang, the owner of Children’s Concepts, a maker of dresses for children and pre- white interiors or those tiled and accented with plants. Dressed mannequins at the teens near Pico Boulevard, said he has been paying $7,000 in monthly rent. doorways are the calling cards seeking to beckon passersby. “Landlords are making so much money off of us and this was a good chance for me Monica Rivas, a sales rep for Caramel, a four-month-old wholesale outlet on 12th to have a permanent place in the district in which to grow the business,” he said. Lang Ex-Designer Picked as Three Dot Creative Director LOS ANGELES — Three Dot, the luxe, contemporary at Helmut is we could do all these amazing designs, but of Design to complete her fashion studies. Now she’s in knit brand with a cult following, has hired former they were not that accessible to everyone.” Orange County, where Three Dot has relocated to Helmut Lang designer Yuchin Mao as creative director. Not surprisingly, “lifestyle” pops up through Mao’s Garden Grove, which has one of the largest Overseeing Lang’s men’s and women’s knit lines for plan for the brand, particularly conveying “the care- Vietnamese-American populations in the U.S. the last five years before moving to Three Dot, Mao’s free, casual yet edgy spirit of living in California,” she The company’s 76,000-square-foot headquarters con- experience also includes five years at Tse and a brief said. “It doesn’t mean you have to live here to experi- tains production and distribution facilities, as well as a stint assisting the swimwear licensee designer for ence it. But the West Coast is very different. New York full studio. “I get to work with everybody, from begin- Calvin Klein. is cosmopolitan in a very European way, whereas ning to end,” Mao said. “It’s this big Disney playground.” While her work at Lang provided a “great play- California is very much its own place.” The first collection with Mao’s stamp is resort 2006, ground for experimentation,” Mao, 34, said she is eager Mao is a Vietnamese immigrant who arrived in New and hits stores in November. to dress a wider base. “What was curious about being York in her teens. She attended Parsons Paris School — Rose Apodaca WWD DNR

CEOSUMMIT November 2-4, 2005, The Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park, New York City

You can’t afford not to be there.

Speakers to date:

Robert Polet Nicolas Ghesquière Myron E. (Mike) Ullman III Gucci Group NV Balenciaga SA J.C. Penney Company Inc.

Kevin Roberts Eric C. Wiseman Mindy Grossman Saatchi & Saatchi Worldwide VF Corp. Nike Inc.

Claudio Del Vecchio Terri L. Kelly Ronald B. Johnson Retail Brand Alliance Inc. W. L. Gore & Associates Inc. Apple Computer Inc.

WWD|DNR Retail|Apparel CEO Summit For information: 212.630.4779 or [email protected]

Sponsored by: 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005

Established Los Angeles Head Production based textile company seek- Patternmaker ing stylist/print room manager to join a great team. Well-established Los Angeles Must be experienced with Girls 4 to16 sportswear mfr. fast paced junior market, tal- Position requires min 7 ented, self-motivated, and years experience with proven organized with exceptional leadership & managerial follow up skills. Experience skills. Pad system knowl- with AVA Cad system a plus. edge a must. Must be Terrific opportunity for the detailed oriented with right person. Please send re- excellent communication sumes: skills. Competitive salary, Box#M 1052 benefit package. Applicant c/o Fairchild Publications must live in Los Angeles 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl area. New York, NY 10001 Fax Resume to; Attn: HR 323-981-9051 Administrative Assistant Needed for small women’s HORIZON boutique. Room to grow. TEXTILES Duites will include, filing, SALES POSTION: answering telephones, Knitted fabrics & gar- some sales and working ment packages: Domestic close with the owner. Must production and imports; be self motivated. Fast delivery & huge Email resume to: stock inventory. [email protected] MILLA DESIGN GROUP Call Bobby @ 213-742-7771 fax 310-527-7324. LOS ANGELES BASED Exciting Opportunity!

PERSONAL/EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Experienced, talented and energetic individual with minimum of 4 years experience. Must have knowledge in the fashion industry, proficient in Word, Kira Craft, a Malibu based Excel and office procedures. Handle business and personal matters, travel arrangements, schedule meetings, plan and organize functions, special women’s wear couture designer has projects. Must be articulate with ability to multi-task. the following position available: TEXTILE SALES HEAD PATTERNMAKER SEWER - PATTERNMAKER Top east coast fabric importer Experienced first / production Patternmaker with minimum 6 years. Must Must be familiar with high-end fabrics ranging from silks to with extensive, saleable, all work closely with designers with ability to correct and make patterns for woolens. Required abilities: Patterning/sewing first samples samples available line production. Strong knowledge of draping and creating from sketch a must. from sketches; Couture level production sewing; Altering (evening, novelty, junior, Full graded and knowledge of sewing construction. patterns for custom fit; A little bit of everything else. Must missy, contemporary). have excellent problem solving capabilities and a passion for Seeking very strong exp’d OFFICE MANAGER beautiful workmanship. Attention to detail a must! Flexible Salesperson with established Professional Office Manager. Must be extremely organized, detail oriented schedule. Will consider both full and part-time applicants. onshore or off-shore apparel and able to multi-task. Excellent bookkeeping and computer skills a must. Salary will be negotiable and commensurate with experience market relationships. and ability. When applying for the position, please bear in LA, NY, Europe & Canada. Please forward resume including salary requirements to: mind our Malibu location and have transportation. Please forward resumes to: Fax: (866) 835-0418 [email protected] 310-456-2922. FAX: (212) 354-1950 Email: [email protected] To apply, e-mail or fax (Please specify which position when applying)

RETAIL COORDINATOR JOIN THE SEPHORA MERCHANT TEAM We are looking for an enthusiastic Retail Coordinator with proven talent & IN SAN FRANCISCO! track record. Candidate will service our rapidly growing specialty store accounts & dept stores in Chicago & NE Region. You will be responsible Sephora is a successful and growing global cosmetics retailer with to merchandise collection, increase product knowledge & act as a liaison over 100 stores in the USA and Canada, a convenient online between retail partners & corporate. Relationship with key accounts a shopping site, and over 400 stores worldwide. must. BUYER / MERCHANT - Skincare STORE MANAGER - FORUM SHOPS, LAS VEGAS (Reference: BMS 605) We are looking for an experienced & motivated Retail Manager to develop a Responsible for achieving financial goals of the category (sales, gross store team for our new location in Las Vegas, NV. Candidate must have a margin, weeks of supply, stock turnover). Develop/implement depart- proven success in sales leadership, visual merchandising, employee ment strategy, brand strategies, assortment plans. Negotiate and manage relations & customer service. Requirements include 5 yrs. of luxury retail margins/ assortments, delivery terms / lead times, seasonal merchandise, buying plans and promotions. Collaborate on education, marketing, visual management with outstanding communication skills. display, orientation plans to support business. Manage Distributor. Re- Excellent benefits and compensation package including quires 3+ years retail buying / merchandising experience (beauty category medical, dental, 401 K & life insurance buying experience desirable), analytical, planning skills, PC computer and merchant systems skills, able to travel 15%, flexible and action oriented. Please fax resume to: (212) 317-1550 or Please email resume, cover letter and salary requirements Email: [email protected] (include Ref.# in email subject line) to: [email protected] WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 17

MERCHANDISERS SUPPLEX*TASLAN Largest Supplier of IN-STOCK Woven Marc Jacobs seeks Merchan- Solid Fabrics. Available in all Finishes. disers for both Ready-to- Domestic/Export. [email protected] Wear and Accessories to Venture Worldwide 1-800-4-SUPPLEX 212-768-3331 plan seasonal assortments, balance line by class & price point and maintain lineplan budgets. Will work with design to interpret/develop concepts into successful retail products and communicate CLOSE OUTS all needs to production to We Buy Men’s, ensure timely delivery of Women’s & Children’s product and target markup. All Quantities WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY Must have minimum 3-5 Customized Knitwear PATTERNS, SAMPLES, years merchandising exp. We are nice people to deal with Design Studio PRODUCTIONS and in-depth knowledge of P.S. Large Piece Good Deals High-End Couture Full servcie shop to the trade. women’s contemporary mar- Also HBA and General Merchandise. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Call Rocky 800-762-5488 Handknit Swatches, Samples, Production ket, competitive environment Brand Name Design Exp-No Minimum and pricing structure. BA a Call 917-612-1094 plus; strong Excel, PowerPt & KNIT- and DENIM WEAR, Access skills required. Excel- JOBBER/EXPORTER lent comp/benefits package We buy better goods. All categories, Uniforms-Fast NAFTA full pckgs including fabrics. Immediate $$. Compliant / aql 2.5 / Sales Oppts. Avilable & int’l, team-oriented setting Please call 212-279-1902 E: [email protected] Ph:718-358-8278 FASHION RESUMES Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail w/career growth opps. Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates E-mail resume to: Patterns/Samples/Beading GILBERT CAREER RESUMES [email protected] Duplicates Cut & Sew (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa fashion.com Fast & Full Service- Production fashionresumes.com EOE/M/F/D/V Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 fashioncareercenter.com PATTERNS/SAMPLES/CUTTING PRODUCTIONS 257 W. 38th Street, 3rd Floor Ph: (212) 921-8100 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, BRIDAL DESIGNER Available for Freelance. Well known in PRODUCTIONS industry. Sketch, beading, construction. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Also bridesmaids and eveningwear. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Please call or fax: (973) 669-8992

1407 BROADWAY SHOWROOMS/OFFICES TREBOR MGMT Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 EVIE KREISLER 36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New & ASSOCIATES 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 9000 All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices RETAIL ANALYST Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Search- www.manhattanoffices.com Must have 3-5 yrs. experience 488 7th Avenue (36th Street) in retail or wholesale women’s SUNNY/LOFT-LIKE SHWRM goods, strong assortment Live/Work Wood flrs, Hi ceils, 2 baths, drmn planning and retail analysis Approx. 1100SF. Immed Occ … $ 3595 skills. Proficiency in EXCEL is 212.629.8694 – MON-FRI – NO FEE required. Retail Pro a plus. 825 2nd Avenue -MIDTOWN established 1978 Please e-mail resume and Designer Associate 1,250 sf corner retail space/great frontage salary requirements to: CUSTOMER SERVICE EXECUTIVE Major handbag co. in L.I.C seeks YOUNG MEN’S TOPS Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 [email protected] Premium denim co seeks creative self FACTORY MANAGER www.dumann.com exp’d person to allocate sales orders. Person with strong operational and SEARCH Must be familiar with EDI, UPC & QRS. starter w/ great color sense to design No Phone Calls Please woven & knit tops for young men’s manufacturing skills needed for facility Excellent benefits & 401K. in NY. Must have min. 5 yrs apparel or For Space in Garment Center Please fax resume to: (718) 786-2956 denim lifestyle. Design patterns, color Atlanta 404-262-0599 yarn dye fabrics, create graphics & ex- accessory exp, strong leadership skills Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Chicago 312-251-0077 ecute complete tech packs for overseas to oversee staff of 40, be computer 212-880-0414 Design Assistant factories. Knowl. of denim washing & literate, highly organized. Must have Los Angeles 213-622-8994 finishing a big plus. Fluent in Adobe experience preparing large shipments Major apparel company seeks experi- for department stores. Search For Space In Garment Center New York 212-279-8999 enced individual to act as a liaison be- Illustrator & Photoshop. Work in a fast paced environ. Travel overseas. Fax Email resume w/salary requirements to: Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee tween design and production. Respon- [email protected] www.midcomre.com www.kreisler-associates.com Buyer sibilities include assisting designers resume: 212.279.5929, Attn: V.P. Design. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Assistant Buyer with concepts/layouts, pricing inquiries and completing production packages. Candidates will have a DESIGNER Must have knowledge of Photoshop Leading Dressy, Prom & Evening Wear Graphic Artist minimum of 2 years experience and/or Illustrator. manufacturer seeks a skilled designer. Fax resume 212-239-2766 Intimate Apparel Co. seeks individual in a women’s fashion forward Min. 5 years experience. An excellent with knowledge of Illustrator and business. EOE opportunity! Fax: 212-398-0654 Photoshop. Experience with creation Email resume to: Designer Assistant of CAD boards and Graded Specs a 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant Growing sportswear co needs a design Must. Industry Experience a Plus. Beautifully Renovated Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 [email protected] DESIGNERS Fax Resume to 212-779-8183 asst. Knowledge of knitwear a plus. *CELEBRITY LINE (2) $80K 2360 or 2871 sq ft Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 You will work closely with the designer Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Wovens Sportswear Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 developing sketches, layouts, new *DESIGNER Bridge Dresses/Tops $90-110K [email protected] silhouettes and trims. Responsible for *DESIGNER-Suites Better Bridge $90-110K Manager of Shipping www.raskinexecsearch.com AP Manager maintaining and organizing the design *DESIGNER-Sweater/Knits $100K Excellent Opportunity Major apparel company seeks experienced area, seasonal books & line sheets. *ASST DESIGNER Cut & Sew Knits $35-40K individual to handle heavy account Excellent communication skills and Well Est’d Midtown Manhattan Denim Must be able to spec garments Wholesale Co. seeks a Shipping Manager analysis, general ledger review and minimum 1 year experience req’d. [email protected] review of company bills. Garment in- E-mail [email protected] managing client/vendor transactions uti- dustry experience helpful. Individual lizing Quick Books. Will control inventory Accountant/Bookkeeper must have experience w/Microsoft Excel. DESIGNER Digital Artist/Textile Artist and provide general administrative NYC fashion importer. A/R, A/P, bank Fax resume 212-239-2766 Well established design studio looking support. Great work enviornment. & factor reconciliation, chargebacks & Associate Designer for Textile Designer for development Excellent Salary & Benefits. Please collections. Knowledge of Quickbooks. of OTC prints. Must be able to create E-mail: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Assistant Designers/Sweaters BOYS INFANT/TODDLER Leading Children’s wear manufacturer originals in Illustrator, Photoshop or Jr import/domestic co. seeking highly Ned Graphics. Experience needed in creative person w/min 2 yrs. swtr. exp. seeks a creative and talented Associate Level Designer for department store all aspects of digital print and color Duties include: product packs, trim development along with knowledge of Administrative Assistant sourcing & follow-up w/overseas. licensed product. 3+ yrs. experience amust, proficiency in Illustrator and print production parameters. Fast paced British Perfume House seeks Admin. Excel/Mac Proficient. Fax resume to: environment with hectic deadlines. Asst. for general office duties: phone, Donald 212-382-2549 production packs req’d. Licensed exp. preferred. Fax or Email resumes to: Please fax resume to: (212) 852-4876 mail, fax, shipping, data entry, travel or Email: [email protected] arrangements. Excellent communication 212-967-8108, Attn: Rachel skills a must. Fax resume: 212-521-4076 CONTROLLER [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] FABULOUS Fashion Photography Studio (Milk Designer Studio)/Print & Commercial Casting Co. FREELANCE JOBS!!! Admin Since 1967 (House Productions)./Clothing Design Co. Associate Designer TAYLOR HODSON W-I-N-S-T-O-N (Raven NY) seeks a Controller. Must Major apparel company seeks Associate Immediate opportunities avail for have an accounting degree and minimum Designer with min. 5 years experience. TECH DESIGNERS, PRODUCTION APPAREL STAFFING 2 years financial/accounting experience. Individual should have strong athletic & MERCHANDISING ASSISTS DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Ideal applicant also has experience & background and be able to work within Submit resumes ASAP! ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION knowledge of fashion industry. E-mail design room/sample room environment. fax: (212) 924-9421 (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 resumes to: [email protected] Fax resume 212-239-2766 e-mail: [email protected] 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005

Manager PLANNER QUALITY CONTROL Visual Merchandising SUPERVISOR Growing New Jersey domestic/import We are G+G, Rave, and Rave Girl, Production Assistant manufacturer seeks individual to develop, known by girls everywhere as the store Leading Childrenswear Importer seeks implement and maintain systems to en- “where real girls get cool clothes at a team player to assist our production sure compliance with customer quality great prices.” We are currently searching PLANNER, WOMEN’S CO-OP team. Candidates must be organized, standards & regulations. Will also inter- for a Manager, Visual Merchandising. It’s Your Future. Wear It Well. detail oriented and able to multi task. face with other departments. Qualified Strong written/verbal skills, proficiency candidates will be aggressive, have good The primary focus of this position will Barneys New York, the world’s leading in Word, Excel & Outlook required. We communication & computer skills, have be to conceptualize, execute, & com- luxury retailer, is currently seeking a offer a benefits package and 401k. This at least 2-5 yrs exp. in a manufacturing municate a clear visual presentation to Planner for our Women’s division. is a great oppty to learn production in a environment. Bilingual Spanish a must. stores in collaboration with Buyers, Responsibilities include developing, dynamic, fast-paced fashion company! Email resume and salary req’s. to: Marketing, & Store Operations. This analyzing and maintaining sales and Please Fax or Email resumes to: [email protected] vision must be communicated to the inventory plans by location to maximize 212 564-5201, Attn: Denise Dimitrova stores in a concise manner. Excellent sales, gross margin and turn, as well as [email protected] written & oral communication skills creating and maintaining open-to-buy Sales Director are essential. The main responsibility with the merchants. This position also Bridge women sportswear co seeks a includes all aspects of the production identifies business opportunities to 7+ yr exp sales exec to handle dept of a regular floorset (from concept maximize profitability through the Production Coordinator and specialty stores. Able to develop development to in-store execution to forecasting of sales, identifies business Fast paced Childrens/Ladies importer and execute marketing and sales publishing of a floorset document sent risks, evaluates inventory aging, vendor is seeking an applicant with 5+ years strategy to meet sales goals, provide to the field). and classification assortments to improve experience in garment importing from merchandising input, with leadership productivity, and partners with Asia. Must have strong communication and problem solving skills. Attend NY Five years experience in a multi-store merchants, store management, and skills, be detail oriented & organized. /Regional shows. Please fax resume to visual management/merchandising po- senior executives to improve profitability. Duties include: daily order follow up 212-268-3654 or email sition is desired, along with a related with overseas suppliers on all order de- [email protected] degree. Computer literacy in basic visual Candidates should possess 3-5 years tails. Excellent computer skills a must. programs (Quark, Photoshop, Illustrator retail experience, preferably as a Wal-mart experience required. or Publisher) is essential. This candi- planner. Superior Excel skills and Please fax or email resumes to: SAMPLE MAKER/ date should have an excellent sense of strong analytical abilities are required. 212-658-9149 / [email protected] PATTERN MAKER: personal style, attention to detail, & an NJ sample room needs experienced inherent understanding of the youth Barneys New York offers a highly competitive compensation package Sample and Pattern Makers. market customer. The ideal candidate Excellent salary and benefits. must be able to work independently, and comprehensive benefits package, along with a wonderful opportunity to Production Coordinator Call (201) 955-1897 x12. give thorough direction, critique, & Major knitwear co. seeks Production follow-up, approach the position in a grow within an exciting retail environment. Qualified candidates Coordinator to follow-up order details pro-active manner, & act with a sense from placement until shipment. General Senior Technical of urgency. should submit resumes to: [email protected] or Fax: computer skills needed (Word, Excel). Designer (212) 450-8489. Only candidates under Must be fluent in English & Korean. Please send your resume to: Please fax resume to: (212) 944-0625 Fast growing Missy & Plus importer [email protected] for confidential consideration will be contacted. has immediate opening for Senior consideration. Check us out at: EOE Technical Designer, for Private Label www.gorave.com www.barneys.com Division of Wovens, Knits & Sweaters. EOE Minimum 7 to 10 years experience and Production Coordinator proficient with various computer sys- & Production Manager tems. Experience must include direct Leading handbag and accessory co. working relationships with Private La- seeks 2 detail oriented individuals. bel customers, Agents and Factories. MERCHANDISER Product Development Follow up with overseas factories, Fax resume to V.P. Design LEE JEANS Coordinator strong computer skills and knowledge 212-221-8326 of retail certification requirements a Lee Jeans,adivision of VF Corporation, Major apparel company seeks Product agloballeader of branded apparel, is must. Excellent salary benefits. Only Development Coordinator with technical the best need apply! E-mail in confi- SK-II currently seeking an individual to join knowledge of knits and woven athletic our dynamic team in Kansas City. dence to: [email protected] Legendary Japanese Skincare, SK-II is performance fabrics. Candidate must currently accepting resumes for: Candidates must have 5+ years apparel be highly organized and have an under- experience in Product Development, standing of garment construction and •BUSINESS MGRS: New York area solid communication, presentation and ability to work with overseas factories. •ACCOUNT EXECS : So. Florida Market interpersonal skills. Graphic design Good computer and communication PRODUCTION OPENINGS Please E-mail cover letter stating position experience a plus. Some domestic travel skills. Overseas travel essential. APPAREL STAFFING, LTD required. We offer excellent benefits ALAN WOLF of interest, salary requirements, and and arewarding working environment! Fax resume 212-239-2766 A Leader In The Apparel Field resume to: [email protected] Salary commensurate with experience. Call (212) 302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 Email: [email protected] SOURCING TRAINEE Lee Jeans is an equal opportunity employe r Women’s specialty catalog company seeks entry-level asst. to aid in the Production/QC Manager development & sourcing of all direct Leading apparel company seeks individ- &importproducts. Excellent written, !!!!NEW OPPORTUNITIES!!!! ual with experience in QC and production verbal, communication & follow-up skills *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men status as well as monitoring overseas along with flat sketching req’d. Com- *Designer or Associate Junior Sweaters staff. Extensive overseas travel essential. puter proficiency. Previous related job *Designer-Assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men Excellent salary and benefits. exp. preferred. *Designer Assoc & Assist Missy Athletics Please fax resume to: (212)239-2766 *Designer Assoc Newborn-Infant Girls Excellent compensation & benefits *Designer Boys 4/20 Sportswear Collection package. For consideration please Fax/ *Office (Facility) Mgr-Purchasing-Maintenance Email resume, including salary history to: *Product Mgr or Coord-Lab Dips etc Production Assistant Product Manager / (212) 916-8320 *Production:mgrs & coords & assists Contemporary designer company [email protected] *Production coords - bilingual chinese seeking a production assistant. Production Manager visit us at www.newport-news.com & *Technical Design & Assists & Entry level Responsibilities include sourcing Fast-paced home textiles importer www.spiegel.com *Technical Designers & Assists Childrens trims from domestic and import looking for detail-oriented, team player *Technical Designer or Mgr.- Sweaters suppliers. Working with local sample for Product Manager / Production Mgr *Technical Designer or Assist- C/S Knits services and factories to translate position. Must be fluent in Chinese, STUDIO MANAGER Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) sketches and specs into show and sale computer literate, responsible and en- samples. Additional responsibilities thusiastic. Must have 3-5 yrs experi- 1-3 years of experience. Someone who include assisting Production Mgrs in ence working with overseas factories. can ensure the smooth running of a all steps necessary to get import Experience w/ major retailers required. fashion studio as well as personally as- production delivered on time. Daily communications w/ China office, sist the designer. Needs to be a highly shipping department, sales and design PATTERNMAKER Min. 5 yrs technical /production expe- dependable self-starter who is looking team. E-mail resume to: for an opportunity to grow. Must be COUTURE rience. Must be highly detailed and [email protected] 1st and production pattern. 6 yrs exp organized, and have excellent commu- very organized, detail oriented and draping and working with design nication skills. Salary DOE. Please able to work in small teams to accom- room. Fax resume and salary to: 212-398-6185 email resumes to [email protected] plish extraordinary results. Love of beautiful clothes a must. Email Resume to [email protected]

STYLECAREERS.COM Production Manager - Bridge Merchandise Allocator - Womens Production Assistant Product Manager - Womens Follow up order details from placement Buyer - Young Mens until shipment. Including handling of all Project Coordinator Retail Planners - Mult Pos shipping documents. Able to understand Global sourcing partner with top Tech Designers - Senior Positions garment size specs. (Excel, Word). customers in the personal care indus- Allocators - Mult Pos Asst/Assoc. Technical Designer Knowledge of Walmart procedures. try has an exciting opportunity for a Technical Design - Juniors Please fax resume 212-268-8232 hard working, detail oriented, and Freelance - Various Positions Opportunity to join a high-energy team and work in a Paul Frank Industries is currently or email [email protected] bright team player in our NYC office. send resumes: [email protected] stimulating and creative environment. recruiting for the following positions: Must have strong organizational and •Director of Merchandising follow up skills, the ability to prioritize Must have high taste level, experience with fully fashion •Director of Retail Operations and multi-task in a fast paced Tech Designers (2) To $70K sweaters and cut and sew knits. Should be organized, a team Only qualified candidates with at least 5 environment. Effective communica- (1) Kids & (1) Better Sweaters player, and have strong computer skills. to 7 years of senior level management tion between cross functional groups is [email protected] exp. in these areas will be contacted. Production Assistant essential. A strong knowledge of Candidates should fax resume and cover letter, including Please check our website at Growing NYC men’s apparel importer. primary cosmetic packaging a must. salary requirements to: Attn: Ruchi Shah www.paulfrank.com for a job description PO’s, spec, time and action calendar, If you are looking for a great opportu- Technical Designers and list of required experience. sample approval, import, photoshop. nity with a competitive package, seri- All Levels Wovens & Knits. Missy Moder - 917-606-6767 E-mail: [email protected] Please email your resume to Please fax resume to: (212) 898-0177 ous growth potential, send resume to: ate & better. Full time & freelance. [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Email: [email protected] WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 19 WWD.COM Oracle in Deal for ProfitLogic Exhibit Spotlights Dutch Designers By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — From the Bowery to the Bronx, scads of areas in and around Manhattan adopted NEW YORK — Oracle Corp. said Tuesday it will acquire names belonging to the Dutch. Given that, it’s fitting ProfitLogic Inc., a leading provider of retail profit optimization that “Dutch at the Edge of Design,” a forthcoming software based in Boston. The price of the transaction, which is museum exhibition, would find a home here. expected to close in mid-July, was not disclosed. With this exhibition, the Museum at the With ProfitLogic’s newly expanded suite of demand-based so- Fashion Institute of Technology is trying to make lutions, Oracle’s infrastructure software and its Retek Global Americans better acquainted with Marcel Business Unit’s planning and execution solutions, retailers will Wanders, Nicolette Brunklaus, Alexander van have an integrated view of customer demand from supply chain Slobbe and Viktor & Rolf ’s Viktor Horsting and to merchandising to the store. Rolf Snoeren. In all, 75 out-of-the-norm exam- Merchandise allocation and assortment execution are becom- ples of fashion and textiles from the ing increasingly important tools in the battle for consumers’ Netherlands will be featured, representing the Jan Taminiau’s hearts and dollars in the face of heightened competition. “Over work of 50 designers, beginning Sept. 8. postbag dress with the last 12 to 18 months, merchandise allocation has moved from Unlike the U.S. and Europe, where big vintage pailettes. a unique competitive advantage to a general necessity,” said brands cast a wide shadow on the retail scene, Duncan Angove, general manager, Retek Global Business Unit. Dutch designers are not so tied to marketing and The Dutch design scene has been getting a The right colors and sizes in the right stores at the right time the bottom line. Without any real centralized warm embrace from the U.S. of late. In May, Donna can keep consumers coming back and impact the gross margin. fashion industry, designers tend to dally more in Karan welcomed alumni from the Design Academy The software also provides visibility, allowing retailers to assess experimentation, craftsmanship and the wear- Eindhoven to use her late husband’s work studio a brand’s performance and markdown liability, and keeps a er’s connection to a garment, as evidenced by for their first group show in the U.S. In the past record of both. Jan Taminiau’s dress that doubles as a blanket. decade, the school’s chair, Li Edelkoort, has been Oracle is clearly enamored of ProfitLogic’s star-studded The Museum at FIT’s deputy director James quietly attracting a band of loyalists, including client list, which includes Ann Taylor, Bloomingdale’s, Hanley credited Harumi Hotta, who cocurated Karan and downtown design guru Murray Moss. Children’s Place Retail, Gap Inc., J.C. Penney, Marshall Field’s, the show with Clare Sauro, for realizing the But Robert Kloos, director for visual arts of Nordstrom, Reitmans and Sears. Dutch design scene was percolating. architecture and design for the Consulate Patti Freeman Evans, a retail analyst at Jupiter Research, While fashion and textiles will be well repre- General of the Netherlands, said the fanfare is said ProfitLogic enhances Oracle’s existing offerings for retail- sented, other disciplines like product design will long overdue. “This is 10 years in the making,” ers. Asked whether the smaller firm could get lost at giant also be showcased, including Wanders’ “knotted he said, singling out the Museum of Modern Art’s Oracle, she said, “It behooves Oracle to highlight the benefits of chair,” Niels van Eijik’s “lace lamp” and Gijs decision to set up a Dutch design cafe in 1995, as ProfitLogic.” Bakker’s “knitted teapot.” “Dutch at the Edge of well as its survey exhibition of Dutch designers Scott Friend, co-founder and president of ProfitLogic, said Design” is part of “Orange Alert: Dutch Design — something the San Francisco Museum of American Eagle is using the product to tailor pricing and assort- in New York,” a smattering of events and dis- Modern Art also did around that time — and the ments to local markets. plays to be held in various museums and exhibi- emergence of Simply Droog on the Milan scene “J.C. Penney can tailor its assortment mix across 1,100 stores,” tion spaces around the city throughout the year. as the pivotal point in Dutch design. he said. In December, “Fashion in Colors: Viktor & “What’s interesting at this moment is the re- Jan Walsh, vice president and business information officer of Rolf & the Kyoto Costume Institute” will cap off tail interest,” he added, pointing to Design Nordstrom, said the company is using Oracle, Retek and ProfitLogic Orange Alert at the Smithsonian’s Cooper- Within Reach, the San Francisco-based retail products because “we’re looking to improve and innovate in the Hewitt, National Design Museum, an exhibition chain, and Target as examples. areas of customer-centricity and overall operating efficiency.” that covers 300 years of Western fashion. — Rosemary Feitelberg PHOTO BY [email protected]

Textile Cad Artist Expert in Photoshop 2 + years 10eleven Showroom NYC DENIM SALES exp, textile design skills a must. Established Denim & Sportswear Co. LADIES’ APPAREL WHOLESALE •Senior Account Manager Seeking a Salesperson for major denim seeks a seasoned sales professional to Sal + ben. Fax resume 212-947-4501 brand. Must have 3 years sales experi- $60K plus. Sportswear mfr - Midtown - •Sales Assistant Email: [email protected] GANT handle dept. store, specialty chain and moderate to better - need min 5 yrs Well est’d UK -Based Company seeks a ence. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: private label accounts. Excellent oppor- 213-627-2619 / [email protected] exp - salary plus comm. Agcy. Sr. Account Manager & Sales Assistant MEN’S ACCOUNT tunity for an energetic team player with Fax resume 212-286-8204 for Ladies & Childrens branded swimwear WISCONSIN RELO astrong denim background. Salary & co-ordinated accessories. Based in a * TECH DIR $100-150K EXECUTIVE plus commission commensurate with NY Showroom, these positions require *SOURCING MGR $80 - 120K experience. customer development in the areas of *FIT SPECIALIST $100-120K Rapidly expanding better lifestyle Please forward resumes to: both department & independent stores. *TD’s. All Levels $50-80K fax: 212-354-4418 Great environment w/oppty for growth. *ASSOC DESIGNER. Sweaters $55K brand seeks entrepreneurial email: [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE Please email: [email protected] *ASSOC DESIGNER. Knitwear $55K account executive to join team. Major private brand womens sportswear * ASSOC MERCHANDISER $55K mfr. with overseas factories seeks [email protected] 212-947-3400 Must possess 3-4 years wholesale proven Sales Exec. with moderate to experience and have strong East Coast Sales Exec better tier followings. Our NY office relationships with better specialty Account Executive Huit, European leader of hi-end Swim- offers complete in-house supports in wear & lingerie seeks Sales Rep. Salary design, fabric development, tech stores. Travel for regional shows Excellent opportunity with the rapidly design, pattern & sample making, growing lifestyle brand, Tory by TRB, or commission, d.o.e. Fax or E-mail to: & store events are required. Enjoy 212-684-7066 / [email protected] QA/QC, financing, plus competitive PERSONAL SHOPPER aluxury apparel company with both sourcing, LDP pricing, on-time delivery working in a fast-paced team Wholesale and Retail divisions.Tory by Women’s Fashion Clothing Company history. Please fax resume or letter seeks a personal shopper with a strong environment a must. TRB is seeking to fill an account exec- detailing your situation to Martin at Please fax resume to: utive position for our fast-paced Corpo- sales background and super service expe- rate office. The ideal candidate will GREAT OPPORTUNITIES! 212-302-9848 rience. Must have excellent phone and 212-230-1950 have 3+ years experience in women’s Sales Pro’s Needed writing skills. Also must have computer or E-mail - [email protected] apparel, be a self-starter who thrives in exp. and laptop to maintain customer afast paced and hard working envi- Women’s & Children’s Brand book and correspondence. Base and EUGENIA KIM Hats/Shoes ronment, and be able to immediately Well Est’d UK company building dedicated commission as sales exceed goals. handle majors and specialty stores. US sales team for children’s & women’s Sales/Merchandise Asst. Email Resume to: [email protected] Wholesale Sales Mgr. Please submit resume with salary swimwear with coordinating apparel. requirements via email to Must have sales exp. & est’d contacts. Young aggressive Watch Co. located in midtown, seeks creative, bright, organ- SALES ASSOCIATE F/T Excellent Opportunity [email protected] Salary & commission negotiable. Madison Ave. Luxury Fur Boutique Travel throughout regions required. ized, and detail oriented individual to assist VP of Sales. Responsibilities in- has F/T position for Sales Associate. Well est’d, high-end, fast- Seeking the following: Minimum 4 yrs. experience. Must • California sales exec for children’s line clude co-ordination & administration growing NY women’s hat & of accounts. Additional responsibilities be a go-getter! Customer book a plus. Account Executive • Florida sales exec for children’s line Excellent salary + commission shoe design co. seeks ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Fast growing, NY based, luxury bed include weekly analysis, merchandise energetic, organized person linen design company. We are seeking • Midwest for women’s & children’s lines preparation for market weeks & meet- and health insurance. Designer European showroom an energetic, highly motivated sales Please email: [email protected] ings, correspondence with Hong Kong Please fax resumes to (212) 308-5454 to oversee wholesale sales or seeking freelance A/E with professional with a minimum of 3+ factories and product development. Email: [email protected] of est’d lines as well as new luxury brand exp. to sell RTW years sales experience working with Must be very articulate & comfortable diffusion line, men’s line, & hair Catalogs, Department and Specialty with making sales presentations. Some & Accessories collections. stores. Must be highly organized, have Key Account Executive travel involved. Very fast paced and lots acc line (attend trade shows, excellent computer skills and be will- The worlds largest men’s accessories of fun. 1-3 years experience in sales or Fax Resume: company has an immediate opening lots of travel, showroom appts, 212-246-6780 ing to travel. Please e-mail resume & merchandising. Please E-mail resume to: salary history to: [email protected] for a Key Account Executive to join phone sales); some PR (pitch our Chicago or NY based sales team. [email protected] stories, editorial placement). Qualified candidate should be energetic Must have min 2 yrs prev & highly motivated sales professional. Must have strong understanding of the wholesale sales exp in high-end wholesale & retail industry. Strong hats & shoes, & w/dept stores. analytical skills, be proactive to obtain HI-PROFILE SENIOR EXECUTIVE Prev PR exp a +. We offer a new business opportunities. Computer Results oriented EVP #1 - USA handbag proficient. Travel required. Please SALES PRO /accessory co. seeks oppty. to increase great work environment. send resume with salary history via Fast growing NY based co. seeks exp’d sales/volume, build brand leadership Fax/email resume & sal. req: email: [email protected] Sales Pro working with big clients in for similar co. Noted for innovative Our company is an equal opportunity women’s apparel. Commission based planning, track record, bottom line 212-674-1769 employer. All interested individuals only. Please e-mail resume with ref’s: results. Refs. CEO’s/Pres./GM’s all USA [email protected] are encouraged to apply. EOE M/F/D/V [email protected] majors.Call: (516) 510-7331 / E-mail: [email protected] WWD The Magazine

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