Silent Night PARIS — Drama Was the Word at Olivier Theyskens’ Cruise Collection for Rochas
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CELINE GOES INSIDE FOR DESIGNER/2 WHAT TO WATCH/10-11 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 6, 2005 • $2.00 Sportswear Silent Night PARIS — Drama was the word at Olivier Theyskens’ cruise collection for Rochas. Inspired by the work of Ingmar Bergman, the designer showed dramatic gowns, long and short, along with abstract prints and airy silk dresses, like the one seen here. For more on the season, see pages 6 and 7. For Belk, Size Matters As Chain’s New Execs Up Competitive Ante By Georgia Lee ATLANTA — Spurred by new leaders, streamlined operations and a focus on brands, Belk Inc.’s purchase of Proffitt’s and McRae’s gives a regional retailer that isn’t known for acquisitions the challenge of integrating major companies and signals its desire to stay in the hunt for businesses. “We would consider other opportunities, but our immediate objective is to transition the Proffitt’s/McRae’s stores into Belk,” said Steve Pernotto, senior vice president, human resources. “This…enables us to See Growing, Page12 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 6, 2005 WWD.COM Celine Taps Insider Omazic as Designer WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear By Miles Socha ture collection, based out of Gubbio, Italy. He re- placed Michael Kors, who also divided his time PARIS — It looks like she had the inside track. between his signature collection and Celine. After interviewing a slate of prominent female LVMH also asked its new couturier at FASHION candidates, Celine has opted for an in-house tal- Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci, to suspend his signature Roberto Cavalli melds cocktail chic with disco dash for cruise and Olivier ent, Ivana Omazic, to become its next designer, collection, suggesting a change in strategy for the 6 Theyskens take a dramatic turn at Rochas. WWD has learned. French luxury giant. LVMH has typically hired According to a source here, 32-year- high-profile designers for its brands and allowed old Omazic, who joined Celine as a them to do double duty on their signature lines. GENERAL consultant last April from Miu Miu, As reported, the search for Menichetti’s suc- Belk’s purchase of Proffitt’s and McRae’s offers the challenge of integrating will be named to head design at the cessor spanned candidates such as Raf Simons 1 major firms and signals its desire to be a player on the acquisition hunt. fashion and accessories firm owned and Peter Som, but recently centered This Sulky After interviewing a slate of prominent female candidates, Celine has opted by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis on a group of designing women, in- 2 for an in-house talent, Ivana Omazic, to become its next designer. Vuitton. An announcement is expected bag is to cluding Isabel Toledo, Veronique shortly. help mark Branquinho and ex-Gucci-ite The U.S. moved to cancel a program ruled illegal by the WTO that provided Omazic will succeed Roberto Celine’s Alessandra Facchinetti. 3 million of dollars in subsidies to cotton growers and yarn spinners. Menichetti, who exited Celine last 60th Despite turmoil in the design de- Riccardo Tisci, the new couturier at Givenchy, said he was shocked in a May after a lackluster one-year anniversary. partment since Kors’ exit last year 8 good way when he discovered the fashion house’s vast archives. collaboration. Although she had after a successful seven-year stint, W2W: As Target and Wal-Mart up their fashion quotients, moderate a hand in the cruise line already Celine has been soldiering ahead, department store vendors have their work cut out for them. sold to buyers, Omazic is expect- especially in the leather goods de- 10 ed to show her first complete col- partment. Celebrating its 60th an- W2W: New York designers may not embrace Marc Jacobs’ extreme lection on the runway during Paris niversary this year, the house re- 11 volumes for spring, but they might focus on his move to a darker palette. Fashion Week in October. cently introduced a limited-edition Born in Zagreb, Croatia, Omazic range of three handbags dubbed studied fashion at the European “Les Parisiennes,” designed with WEST Institute of Design in Milan. Upon input from a French novelist, an art The San Pedro Wholesale Mart in Los Angeles, a bastion for the Korean- graduation, she joined Romeo Gigli photographer and a fashion curator. 14 American apparel community, is experiencing a real estate boom. for one year before moving on to Prada Headed by chief executive Jean-Marc Group. There, she worked on the Prada Loubier since 2000, the house is believed to SUZY Sport and Jil Sander brands, but she was most re- have turned a profit in 2003 and 2004, aided by a Word is Tom and Katie will be married at the Scientology Center in Los cently women’s ready-to-wear design coordinator major restructuring and growth in high-margin Angeles…Jude Law and Sadie Frost come to terms, divorce that is. at Miu Miu. leather goods. The latter category is believed to 4 Neither LVMH nor Celine officials could be generate about 40 percent of brand sales. reached for comment on Tuesday. However, it is LVMH does not give volume breakdown for in- Classified Advertisements ..................................................................16-19 understood the house was eager to find a designer dividual brands, but market sources estimate To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is willing to be devoted exclusively to Celine. Celine’s volume at around $200 million. It oper- [email protected], using the individual’s name. Menichetti parted ways with Celine partly be- ates a network of some 110 stores, including re- cause he could not dedicate enough time to the cent additions in Florence, Italy and Tokyo’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. 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