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London from $90 a Day
9th Edition
by Donald Olson
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About the Author Donald Olson is a novelist, playwright, and travel writer. His sixth novel, My Three Husbands (written under the nom de plume Swan Adamson), was published in 2003. Oregon Ghosts, his play based on Oregon’s legendary spirits, premiered in Portland in 2003. His plays have also been produced in London, New York, Ams- terdam, and Rotterdam. Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, Travel & Leisure, Sunset, National Geographic guides, and many other national publications. He is the author of London For Dummies, Germany For Dummies, and England For Dummies, which won the 2002 Lowell Thomas Travel Writing Award for “Best Guidebook”. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or regis- tered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4107-2 ISSN 1055-5331 Editor: Christine Ryan Production Editor: Bethany André Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in London 1
1 The Best of London from $90 a Day 5 1 Frommer’s Favorite 2 Best Hotel Bets on a Budget . . . .9 London Moments ...... 5 3 Best Dining Bets on a Budget . . .10
2 Planning an Affordable Trip to London 12 1 The $90-a-Day Premise ...... 12 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .29 2 Fifty Money-Saving Tips ...... 13 9 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 32 3 Visitor Information ...... 19 Frommers.com: The Complete 4 Entry Requirements & Travel Resource ...... 34 Customs ...... 20 10 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 34 5 Money ...... 21 11 Getting There ...... 36 The British Pound & the Make the Airline Pricing U.S. Dollar ...... 22 System Work for You ...... 37 What Things Cost in London . . .23 12 Money-Saving Package Deals . . . .43 6 When to Go ...... 23 E-Package Deals ...... 44 London Calendar of Events . . . .24 13 Recommended Books & Films . . .44 7 Travel Insurance ...... 28
3 Getting to Know London 47 1 Orientation ...... 47 Fast Facts: London ...... 63 Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 49 Telephone Dialing Info 2 Getting Around ...... 57 at a Glance ...... 68 Tube Tales ...... 58
4 Accommodations You Can Afford 69 1 How to Save on Sleeping ...... 70 8 Bloomsbury ...... 94 2 Kensington & Chelsea ...... 71 9 Covent Garden, the Strand 3 Earl’s Court ...... 79 & Holborn ...... 100 4 Notting Hill ...... 81 The Bargain Business ...... 101 5 Paddington & Bayswater ...... 84 10 Victoria & Westminster ...... 103 6 Marylebone ...... 89 11 Just South of the River ...... 107 7 Soho & Oxford Circus ...... 91 12 Near the Airport ...... 108 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page iv
iv CONTENTS
5 Great Deals on Dining 110 1 How to Eat Without Sinful Soho: Dens of Losing £s ...... 111 Delicious Iniquity ...... 134 2 Restaurants by Cuisine ...... 111 10 Mayfair ...... 136 3 Knightsbridge ...... 116 11 Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia ...... 140 Moveable Feasts ...... 117 Surf ’n’ Slurp @ the Best 4 Kensington & Chelsea ...... 120 Internet Cafes ...... 142 5 Earl’s Court ...... 123 12 Covent Garden & the Strand . . .143 6 Notting Hill ...... 123 13 Victoria ...... 147 7 Paddington & Bayswater . . . . .127 14 The City & Clerkenwell ...... 148 8 Marylebone ...... 128 15 Just South of the River ...... 150 Good Old-fashioned Pub 16 Farther Afield ...... 152 Grub ...... 129 17 Best of the Budget Chains . . . .153 9 Soho & Chinatown ...... 130 18 Afternoon Tea ...... 154
6 Exploring London 156 1 How to Spend Less and See Backstage Tours ...... 189 More ...... 157 6 Maritime & Waterfront Sights . . .190 Suggested Itineraries ...... 157 7 At Home with History’s A-List . . .195 2 London’s Top Attractions . . . . .161 8 Especially for Kids ...... 198 3 Churches, Cathedrals & 9 Parks & Gardens ...... 200 a Cemetery ...... 174 10 Organized Tours ...... 203 4 Memorials & Monuments . . . . .177 11 Staying Active ...... 205 5 Lots More Sights to See ...... 180 12 Spectator Sports ...... 206 See British Justice Done . . . Allegedly ...... 181
7 Shopping 210 1 Top Tips for Bargain Hounds . . .210 2 The Shopping Scene ...... 212 London’s Best Buys ...... 212 3 Shopping A to Z ...... 213
8 London After Dark 229 1 Entertainment on a 5 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .242 Shoestring ...... 230 6 Gay & Lesbian London ...... 246 2 London’s Theater Scene ...... 232 7 The Drinking Game: Pubs & 3 The Performing Arts ...... 236 Wine Bars ...... 249 Performers in the Park ...... 238 London’s Best Cocktails ...... 250 4 Major Arts Venues ...... 239 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page v
CONTENTS v
9 Easy Excursions from London 252 1 How to Save on Day-Trippin’ . . .252 2 Windsor & Eton ...... 255 Calendar of Events for 3 Cambridge ...... 257 London Excursions ...... 253 4 Oxford ...... 262 The Train Ticket Dictionary . . . .254 Appendix A: London in Depth 268 1 London Today ...... 268 Dateline ...... 270 2 A Look at the Past ...... 270 What’d Ya Say? ...... 281 Appendix B: London’s Art & Architecture 284 1 Art 101 ...... 284 2 Architecture 101 ...... 287 Appendix C: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 294
Index 296 General Index ...... 296 Restaurant Index ...... 306 Accommodations Index ...... 305 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page vi
List of Maps
Central London 6 Where to Dine in Soho & Index of London Hotel Maps 72 Chinatown 131 Where to Stay from Knightsbridge to Where to Dine in the West End Earl’s Court 74 138 Where to Stay from Marylebone to Where to Dine in the City & on the Notting Hill 82 South Bank 149 Where to Stay in the West End 92 Central London Sights 158 Where to Stay in Victoria & Sights from Knightsbridge to Earl’s Westminster 105 Court 163 Index of London Restaurant Maps Sights North of Hyde Park 179 112 Central London Theaters 233 Where to Dine from Knightsbridge Cambridge 259 to Earl’s Court 118 Oxford 263 Where to Dine from Marylebone to Notting Hill 124 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page vii
An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s London from $90 a Day, 9th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s England from $75 a Day Frommer’s London Frommer’s Portable London Frommer’s England England For Dummies London For Dummies Best Day Trips from London 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page viii
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 02 541072 WN.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page 1
What’s New in London
London continues to amaze, enchant, So go go go, because we’re here to and provoke—which is why you tell you that London has never been should get out of that boring stay-at- better. It’s in the midst of an urban home mindset and visit the pulsating renaissance that has made it more liv- capital of the U.K. as soon as possible. able and visitor-friendly than ever. The pluses far outweigh any minuses, Londoners are as proud of their city and the minuses can be turned to your as ever. And they have reason to be. advantage. Ever since 1997, when Tony Blair’s We’re saying all this because Ameri- New Labour party put an end to the can tourists have been staying away Tories’ Thatcherite policies, people from London, and for all the wrong everywhere have been hailing Britain’s reasons. First it was the foot-and- capital as the happening place. Call it mouth scare. Then, after the Septem- a multi-ethnic semi-European cultural ber 11, 2001 terrorist attacks, nobody epicenter. It’s got the hottest fashion wanted to fly anywhere. Just when designers; the most mouthwateringly tourism was picking up, America and inventive dining scene; the most excit- Britain went to war with Iraq. Euro- ing theater, music, and dance; the peans kept coming to London during greatest museums; an increasingly vis- that period, but the city was devoid of ible art world; fabulous shopping; and American accents. since it’s a Royal and celebrity hang- So why should you break the stay- out, it’s a hotbed of gossip and scan- at-home spell and visit London now? dal, all of which you can read about Because on a purely practical level, every day in one of London’s many there’s more breathing room, more newspapers and sleazy tabloids (for a space, less hassle. London will always lowdown on some of the more recent be a crowded city, but with fewer Royal scandals, see the appendix). tourists you can now walk into any Below we’ve summarized some of museum and get into even the most the newer events and experiences that popular attractions without standing await you in London. in long lines. Restaurants that once PLANNING YOUR TRIP One required reservations weeks in advance new development that you might now require only 1 or 2 days. Getting want to take note of is that the U.K.’s a ticket for your favorite West End national tourism agency has changed show is almost guaranteed. And hotels its name from the stern and rather for- are practically begging for business: bidding British Tourist Authority to many have lowered their rates and the snazzier and more forthright Vis- offer amazingly cheap (for London) itBritain (www.visitbritain.com). promotions. Airline fares are super- Not only that, it’s closed its walk-in cheap, too, if you know how to shop offices in Chicago and Canada, so in around (see “Getting There” in chap- North America everything now gets ter 2 for more details). filtered through the New York office 02 541072 WN.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page 2
2 WHAT’S NEW
(see “Visitor Information” in chapter Thanks to the mayor, all bus and 2 for contact information). You can Underground travel cards get you a still get all kinds of useful information third off the price of Thames boat from them, and the website is far more trips. That includes the “Tate to Tate” user-friendly. river shuttle between the two Tate gal- GETTING AROUND Overall, leries. See chapter 3 for more informa- there’s less traffic congestion in Lon- tion on navigating London. don these days because of a new “con- ACCOMMODATIONS In hopes gestion charge” that went into effect in of filling empty bedrooms, hotels and 2003. It was an idea pushed by Ken B&Bs held their prices steady between Livingston, the feisty and controversial 2002 and 2003. Some even lowered Mayor of London (he’s the first Mayor their rates. Almost every hotel we vis- ever, and is not to be confused with ited while researching this edition of the Lord Mayor, who symbolically London from $90 a Day was willing to presides over the City of London). negotiate prices. And nearly every Now drivers have to pay £5 ($8) for hotel manager urged us to tell readers the privilege of driving into central to check the hotel’s website for special London during specified times of the promotions. Doing so may land you a day. There are Big Brotherly tracking much better rate than the standard devices that scan cars and instantly fine non-discounted “rack rates” we list. the owners if they haven’t paid. The It’s impossible to enumerate the ever- result is that there are, indeed, fewer changing special deals that are offered cars on the streets and buses are now throughout the year, but a little Web able to move at something above a research can pay off handsomely. snail’s pace (but still well below a clip). When you’re booking your hotel Which leads us to public transporta- room, always ask if a special is being tion in general. That’s what you’ll be offered. using to get around this enormous city One of the nicest surprises for (unless you can afford taxis). With a budget travelers who want to stay in money-saving Visitor Travelcard (see the Victoria & Westminster area is the chapter 3 for details) you can go any- complete makeover of the Luna where by bus or Underground with- Simone Hotel (p. 104), 47–49 Bel- out the hassle of buying individual grave Rd., SW1 (& 020/7834-5897; tickets. But the trip itself may not be www.lunasimonehotel.com). It now hassle-free if you’re traveling by Tube; has a smooth contemporary look that the aging infrastructure frequently makes it a real standout in an area of causes delays. After a highly publicized mostly frumpy or dumpy B&Bs. train crash, the entire Central Line There’s now a Comfort Inn (p. 81) was closed for the first half of 2003, at 6–14 Pembridge Gardens, W2 but it’s now up and running again. (& 020/7229-6666), in Notting Hill Mayor Ken has set up a new River- Gate. Happily for budget travelers, side RV1 bus service that travels this well-placed hotel offers much bet- between Waterloo Bridge and Tower ter rates if you deal directly with them Bridge and stops at all the new attrac- rather than central reservations. At the tions on the South Bank. It’s the same other end of the bed budget, St. fare as all London buses (£1/$1.60), or Christopher’s Village (p. 108) recently you can use your Visitor Travelcard. opened a hostel on Shepherds Bush For more information call London green (& 020/7407-1856; www. travel information at & 020/7222- st-christophers.co.uk), a scruffyish 1234 or surf over to www.transport neighborhood west of Notting Hill, forlondon.gov.uk. home to the BBC and squads of 02 541072 WN.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page 3
WHAT’S NEW 3
young travelers from overseas. See of these places used to charge £8 ($13) chapter 4 for more places to lay your admission. Now you can visit any of head without straining your wallet. London’s unforgettable treasure troves DINING From the fuss everyone is on a whim, and even take the entire making about Indian cuisine you’d family, without anxiously biting your think Londoners had never tasted nails over the cost. curry before. Not many Indian restau- In addition to that, the museums rants win stars from those snobby themselves have never looked spiffier Michelin men, but Zaika did for its or been more inviting. Marvelous new innovative fusion cuisine. It’s a bit too galleries have opened in the Victoria pricey to review for this guide, but if & Albert Museum (p. 172), Cromwell you feel like a splurge you’ll find it at Rd., SW7 (& 020/7942-2000); the 257–259 Fulham Rd., SW3 (& 020/ Tate Britain (p. 170), Millbank, SW1 7351-7823). Even more innovative (& 020/7887-8000); and the than the cuisine at Zaika is the move Museum of London (p. 186), 150 to reinvent down-market (and down- London Wall, EC2 (& 020/7600- budget) Indian street food at Masala 3699). A life-size animatronic T. Rex Zone (p. 134), 9 Marshall St., W1 is the star of the revamped Dinosaur (& 020/7287-9966), and Mela Galleries in the Natural History (p. 145), 152–156 Shaftesbury Ave., Museum (p. 168), Cromwell Rd., WC2 (& 020/7836-8635). This SW7 (& 020/7942-5000). The new reaction against flashy “see and be Wellcome Wing in the Science seen” dining is playing a part in the Museum (p. 169), Exhibition Rd., waning popularity of Sir Terence Con- SW7 (& 020/7942-4000) is full of ran’s mega-restaurants, those places intriguing interactive exhibits. And that were so screamingly popular in then, of course, there’s the “new” the booming Nineties but are now British Museum (p. 161), Great Rus- looking a bit forlorn. L’Odeon, one of sell St., WC1 (& 020/7323-8000) the first of London’s grand-sized gour- with its stunning Great Court; the met eateries, closed in 2003. Even new covered courtyard at the Wallace celebrity chef and restaurateur Nico Collection (p. 198), Manchester Sq., Ladenis downsized prices when he W1 (& 020/7563-9500); and the opened the new Incognico (p. 130), fabulous Tate Modern (p. 171), 117 Shaftesbury Ave., WC2 (& 020/ Bankside, SE3 (& 020/7887-8000), 7836-8866). Maybe it was because he which quickly became one of Lon- retired from the kitchen soon after- don’s most popular attractions when it wards. See chapter 5 for more on where opened in 2000. Where else in the to find London’s best eats for less. world could you have such incredible pickings for free? SIGHTSEEING When we said Contemporary art watchers no that London was more visitor-friendly longer have to trek miles to see the than ever, we weren’t just blowing PR often creepy and self-publicizing bubbles. Get this: all of London’s works championed by art dealer national museums—world-class insti- Charles Saatchi. The Saatchi Gallery tutions like the British Museum, the (p. 187) moved to County Hall, Victoria & Albert, the Natural His- Southbank, SE1 (& 020/7823-2363), tory Museum, the Science Museum, of all places, in April 2003. There, in the Museum of London, the Tate the former offices of the London City Modern, and the Tate Britain—are Council right next to the London Eye now free. This opens up the cultural observation wheel, you can now see side of London as never before. Some the works that created such a sensation 02 541072 WN.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page 4
4 WHAT’S NEW
at the “Sensation” show (you might Americans will be interested to hear have heard about it when it came to that the house where Benjamin the Brooklyn Museum). Franklin lived between 1757 and At press time, the brand-new 1775 is due to open to the public in Museum in Docklands (p. 192), early 2004 after a lengthy and on- No. 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, going restoration. To find out more, Hertsmere Road, E14 (no phone as of call (& 020/7930-9121). See chapter press time), was scheduled to open in 6 for details on all of London’s muse- mid-2003. Its goal is to bring to life ums and attractions. the vibrant history of Docklands, a SHOPPING It’s the ultimate riverside area of great warehouses reverse snobbery, but fashion babes where trade from all corners of the like Stella McCartney and Kate Moss globe was carried on for centuries. are allegedly deep into thrift-shop A major new development has chic. As well as trawling Portobello transformed Trafalgar Square. For- and Camden markets, Oxfam Origi- merly this world-famous tourist haunt nals at 22 Earlham St., WC2 (& 020/ was a pigeon-infested island in the 7836-9666; Tube: Covent Garden), middle of a roaring traffic circle. Now remains a hotspot for retread threads. it’s been depigeonized and joined to Otherwise, for great 1970s gear, head the National Gallery, encouraging to Pop Boutique, 6 Monmouth St., pedestrians to visit instead of making W1 (& 01704/834403; Tube: Covent them dodge the roaring traffic. The Garden). See chapter 7 for more on first phase of this revamp was com- London’s best bargains. pleted in 2003; there will be further cosmetic and symbolic changes made AFTER DARK In 2002/2003 to Trafalgar Square in the coming the Royal Shakespeare Company years. (p. 234) played its first season away Architecturally, in addition to his- from its old home at the Barbican, uti- toric stars like the Tower of London, lizing more convenient West End the- Westminster Abbey, and Buckingham atres like the Gielgud on Shaftesbury Palace, London has a host of new Avenue. The company lured Ralph glamorpuss buildings and structures, Fiennes and Kenneth Brannagh into including Norman Foster’s (everyone’s performing, which gave a boost to current darling) environmentally ticket sales. “green” City Hall, his “glass gherkin” Club nights are still a big deal, but skyscraper in the City, and his sleek the days of superclubs being hot news Millennium Bridge linking St. Paul’s just for being big is well over. It’s to the Tate Modern. Graceful new impossible to track what the next pedestrian walkways on Hungerford faddy scene will be. Only in London Bridge make walking from Embank- will you find SchoolDisco.com ment to the South Bank a real pleas- (p. 244), a Saturday nighter for which ure, day or night. And though it’s now 2,000 allegedly cool kids dress up in over 3 years old, let’s not forget the school uniforms. A less-uniformy British Airways London Eye (p. crowd heads for intimate club bars like Cargo (p. 246), Kingsland Viaduct, 161), Jubilee Gardens, Southbank & SE1 (& 0870/500-0600). This giant 83 Rivington St., EC2 ( 020/7739- observation wheel, which offers stun- 3440), where the cover for live music, ning views over London, has been so DJs, dancing, and food is almost as popular that the London Council is cheap as a nightclub in the 1950s. See thinking of keeping it revolving after chapter 8 for more budget-friendly its original 5-year lifespan is up. nightlife options. 03 541072 Ch01.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page 5
1 The Best of London from $90 a Day
London is one of the most expensive cities in the world, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a marvelous, affordable vacation there. That’s why this guide- book was written. Here are some of the best sightseeing, lodging, and dining options for travelers who want a great vacation without breaking the bank.
1 Frommer’s Favorite London Moments • Roam Along the River. We’re Another favorite pastime is to pick torn between two favorite strolls. up the Sunday paper and head to A newly spruced-up walk runs Soho for a late breakfast at one of uninterrupted along the south the tempting patisseries. With the bank of the Thames from the throngs of locals and visitors, it British Airways London Eye, has a wonderful urban buzz. opposite the Houses of Parlia- • Get a Rooftop View. The giant ment, to Southwark, past a score British Airways London Eye of must-visit sights, including the (p. 161) slowly lifts you 135 feet Tate Modern and the Millennium in the air for a staggering 25-mile Bridge. For a different but just as view across the city. There are also lovely pedestrian perspective on stunning panoramas from the London, take the footpath head- dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral, from ing west from Putney along the the tower of Westminster Cathe- river. The luminous tunnel of dral, and from the Wellington trees leads past the world’s largest Arch at Hyde Park Corner. But urban wetland sanctuary to Ham- you have to get out your wallet to mersmith Bridge. Cross over there enjoy all of these bird’s-eye views. for a pint at one of the pubs Savvy travelers head for an unoffi- between the string of north-bank cial picnic spot—the glass-walled boathouses. corner room on level 7—at our • Do That Continental Thing and favorite freebie, Tate Modern Take to the Streets. It’s not just (p. 171). Covent Garden where strollers can • Time-Travel into Pageantry from watch great street entertainment the Past. The Brits have had cen- while grazing. Millions have gone turies to practice their pomp and into refurbishing the courtyard at circumstance, which is why they’ve Somerset House, on the other side got ceremonies like the Changing of the Strand, and there’s nearly of the Guard at Buckingham always something going on there. Palace, Horse Guards Parade, and The summer cafe on the river ter- St. James’s Palace, down to a fine race is one of the most delightful art (see the box “Changing of the cheap lunch spots in town. Guard” on p. 162). 03 541072 Ch01.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page 6
6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF LONDON FROM $90 A DAY Central London
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0 u . u Centre 4 . A t B Liverpool St. t e a S R o Y . c r l . A k MMARYLEBONEARYLEBONE o y e t o o WESTW e Museum Station PPADDINGTONADDINGTON e g o m R w s d m H t r o d orn o M e b lb F o e o s ol o t . S G . H rn L a o THE ROYAL OAK d PADDINGTON u b n a . r t do R t u . r n g r P . K W e S r s EEastbourneSTATION RRegent St. r n V a i l g P l y h l d a i n i p H ri . . e ig n L a EAST NOTTINGNOTTING B s s l . . o t . t g H r g o u ’s b d n re S g e n p o e s t d h s HILLHILL o Ter.T o e d m OXFORD St. HOLBORN t s d h a ig n rd w i s u G o o i Bi e r WWigmore St. OOxfordxf St. e B t END r PPraed St. t F C c r n x . CIRCUS a n . e St he h M e s ur NNew Bond St. S COVENT y a s o S p L BAYSWATERBAYSWATER ym i e t Law Courts St. Paul’s sid a LLeinste u e . t e e SSeymour St. n SSussex Gdns. w TTHEHE GARDEN . m e St. Cor . M d nh s Q r Cathedral i t i . xfo C ll S n MARBLE ARCH . e OOxford St. ll i a d ch - t a n u h y l n s C nh R BOND ST. . w e S de l LANCASTER WESTWEST ENDEND Lea o t t e S a d S Leicester c S e n u k l e e oo r C a h r t r t r Gdns. v GATE d BrookB St. i A a r i . n n n c m y n e a n . ra d. berl r B r Square THE CITY o r G r R o t. SOHOSOHO u n s C e n G t S s yswa G ve r S o b g d t. u w BBayswatera Rd. s o s n D BAYSWATER d ate GGrosvenorro ven n SSavile Row e e. a kmen per Thames h . s a t C r ban t Up St. c o n o d t a q r PICCADILLY f v S Em Sq.S GGrosvenor St. v a ia c s A r r y BBerkeley W S il to T k . h o o
40 e e t e CIRCUS THE STRAND Vic Blackfriars w S AA40 r . S e S s k R s Low Hi t s Millennium er ward ll E r t SSq. e Th y . C o es Bridge am B a q le w ham es St. s QUEENSWAY a . y i er T Bridge St. t r P MMAYFAIRAYFAIR National Gallery Riv Tate Southwark r a . R i t a P r SSt. James’s St. S d Charing Cross Bridge London BBroad Walk HYDEHYDE PARKPARK a k n Waterloo Bridge Modern Tower of g t . r r L . y o k m Station Bridge e n J er d St. Globe Theatre London a L . a JJermyn St. Trafalgar or d RRoundound D n GREEN PARK m f S WA . ll m o London DOCKLANDS KENSINGTONKENSINGTON r e a Square Hungerford Bridge a u BANKSIDE W t t PPondond . s M S h . Bridge l W w ly ’s l Whitehall a t To a Serpent l a rk S o Tower GARDENSGARDENS in i PPall Mall h S l Station l e S ll t. e k R d d t a i h S y . a . t t Bridge The cc M e British Airways ig . St Serpe i e h SOUTH BANK T . ntin PPiccadilly h H h B e TThe Mall a Union St. o . m e GREENGREEN l London Eye h KensingtonKensington l t a r d W u . g s R m C d S PalacePalace PARKPARK SST.T. JJAMES‘SAMES‘S 10 Downing a e SOUTHWARK u t. k t h R o THE o
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. h . g e A t t l t t d d o r e n o e . r KKENSINGTONENSINGTON e aandnd AAlbertlbert d o Abbey n g RRd. R G o o BBeau- b S i S a R d r t e R r e e n i d . s o n d t r MMuseumuseum p cchampa n . St m c . u St e r R . B R . h ria a a g n m - e l G a nt e cto f e d e d o m PPonto St. Vi L . ’ r ra r E c e a d s . n S R K . B p a r Lambeth P R e g c l th d NEWINGTON e t c r e . R . l a VICTORIA y b w . e Bridge Lam o d ll Rd. q st PPalace Rd. STATION Rdd.. Ne T . e . Cromw S SSt. o n WEST- w Kent Rd. n t i d BBROMPTONROMPTON o . m MINSTER R t a VICTORIAVICTORIA V LAMBETH a h a Pe EEaton Sq. u n ELEPHANT lham St. SSloaneloane g x h t o in a t S BBELGRAVIAELGRAVIA l n & CASTLE lo Sq.Sq. k l g BBelgrave Rd.y e SOUTH a c e a n B n O EARL’SEARL’S COURTCOURT e u lg W r Tate i A LLwr.wr. SSloaneloane SSt.t. r id m l KENSINGTON n W B a g k d ve v e Britain k SLOANE n . k e n K S ic n a e R R e n . w a a l y SQUARE d r d d w WALWORTH t R a . K . d . b b R . D ico W ll d Rd n l i o d. m y R n r e i m r P r a . e o SSOUTHOUTH y M Vauxhall E t t y d k h p g r R u t m t S a KKENSINGTONENSINGTON s r o o CChelsea b d . Bridge R r t ’ i P g e B n . BBridgeh Rd. E PIMLICO in r r d d d . i e b n l K l R G d d ls B R PIMLICOPIMLICO . o . O e g e n t SCOTLAND d R e a A L d n l R ton g c s a d ning n li . CHELSEACHELSEA it . Ken i ff p n e OOakley St. s H KENNINGTON n G B a o ar e k H d. le K d . e l or R yf n d a le a nt en R o d. R u e QQueenstown Rd. v r s y y km Gros d d y R . f an . n o b u GGrosvenorrosvenor a m o S R a Em lb a r t e CChelseahelsea e A
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i r T s h VAUXHALL C t BBattersea Bridge Rd. w e R h lk AAlbert Bridge R v m a Wa Ri El a n l m G t b h C t AAlbertlbert e L WALES e n t a r e R i o r r a m b BBridgeridge r N b s d m v o e e e t . er . r e a B w b d w . w s R e n B r e l y d l i BBATTERSEAATTERSEA PPARKARK e BBatterseaattersea d e r d t N h m R e h id n l C g a w l BBridgeridge g a e h n R R R d e W p o . d R d R a t d.d l . d . x C i . . r HHAMMERSMITHAMMERSMITH B 03 541072 Ch01.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page 7
FROMMER’S FAVORITE LONDON MOMENTS 7