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01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page i London from $90 a Day 9th Edition by Donald Olson Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page ii About the Author Donald Olson is a novelist, playwright, and travel writer. His sixth novel, My Three Husbands (written under the nom de plume Swan Adamson), was published in 2003. Oregon Ghosts, his play based on Oregon’s legendary spirits, premiered in Portland in 2003. His plays have also been produced in London, New York, Ams- terdam, and Rotterdam. Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, Travel & Leisure, Sunset, National Geographic guides, and many other national publications. He is the author of London For Dummies, Germany For Dummies, and England For Dummies, which won the 2002 Lowell Thomas Travel Writing Award for “Best Guidebook”. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or regis- tered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4107-2 ISSN 1055-5331 Editor: Christine Ryan Production Editor: Bethany André Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in London 1 1 The Best of London from $90 a Day 5 1 Frommer’s Favorite 2 Best Hotel Bets on a Budget . .9 London Moments . .5 3 Best Dining Bets on a Budget . .10 2 Planning an Affordable Trip to London 12 1 The $90-a-Day Premise . .12 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .29 2 Fifty Money-Saving Tips . .13 9 Planning Your Trip Online . .32 3 Visitor Information . .19 Frommers.com: The Complete 4 Entry Requirements & Travel Resource . .34 Customs . .20 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . .34 5 Money . .21 11 Getting There . .36 The British Pound & the Make the Airline Pricing U.S. Dollar . .22 System Work for You . .37 What Things Cost in London . .23 12 Money-Saving Package Deals . .43 6 When to Go . .23 E-Package Deals . .44 London Calendar of Events . .24 13 Recommended Books & Films . .44 7 Travel Insurance . .28 3 Getting to Know London 47 1 Orientation . .47 Fast Facts: London . .63 Neighborhoods in Brief . .49 Telephone Dialing Info 2 Getting Around . .57 at a Glance . .68 Tube Tales . .58 4 Accommodations You Can Afford 69 1 How to Save on Sleeping . .70 8 Bloomsbury . .94 2 Kensington & Chelsea . .71 9 Covent Garden, the Strand 3 Earl’s Court . .79 & Holborn . .100 4 Notting Hill . .81 The Bargain Business . .101 5 Paddington & Bayswater . .84 10 Victoria & Westminster . .103 6 Marylebone . .89 11 Just South of the River . .107 7 Soho & Oxford Circus . .91 12 Near the Airport . .108 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 Great Deals on Dining 110 1 How to Eat Without Sinful Soho: Dens of Losing £s . .111 Delicious Iniquity . .134 2 Restaurants by Cuisine . .111 10 Mayfair . .136 3 Knightsbridge . .116 11 Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia . .140 Moveable Feasts . .117 Surf ’n’ Slurp @ the Best 4 Kensington & Chelsea . .120 Internet Cafes . .142 5 Earl’s Court . .123 12 Covent Garden & the Strand . .143 6 Notting Hill . .123 13 Victoria . .147 7 Paddington & Bayswater . .127 14 The City & Clerkenwell . .148 8 Marylebone . .128 15 Just South of the River . .150 Good Old-fashioned Pub 16 Farther Afield . .152 Grub . .129 17 Best of the Budget Chains . .153 9 Soho & Chinatown . .130 18 Afternoon Tea . .154 6 Exploring London 156 1 How to Spend Less and See Backstage Tours . .189 More . .157 6 Maritime & Waterfront Sights . .190 Suggested Itineraries . .157 7 At Home with History’s A-List . .195 2 London’s Top Attractions . .161 8 Especially for Kids . .198 3 Churches, Cathedrals & 9 Parks & Gardens . .200 a Cemetery . .174 10 Organized Tours . .203 4 Memorials & Monuments . .177 11 Staying Active . .205 5 Lots More Sights to See . .180 12 Spectator Sports . .206 See British Justice Done . Allegedly . .181 7 Shopping 210 1 Top Tips for Bargain Hounds . .210 2 The Shopping Scene . .212 London’s Best Buys . .212 3 Shopping A to Z . .213 8 London After Dark 229 1 Entertainment on a 5 The Club & Music Scene . .242 Shoestring . .230 6 Gay & Lesbian London . .246 2 London’s Theater Scene . .232 7 The Drinking Game: Pubs & 3 The Performing Arts . .236 Wine Bars . .249 Performers in the Park . .238 London’s Best Cocktails . .250 4 Major Arts Venues . .239 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page v CONTENTS v 9 Easy Excursions from London 252 1 How to Save on Day-Trippin’ . .252 2 Windsor & Eton . .255 Calendar of Events for 3 Cambridge . .257 London Excursions . .253 4 Oxford . .262 The Train Ticket Dictionary . .254 Appendix A: London in Depth 268 1 London Today . .268 Dateline . .270 2 A Look at the Past . .270 What’d Ya Say? . .281 Appendix B: London’s Art & Architecture 284 1 Art 101 . .284 2 Architecture 101 . .287 Appendix C: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 294 Index 296 General Index . .296 Restaurant Index . .306 Accommodations Index . .305 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page vi List of Maps Central London 6 Where to Dine in Soho & Index of London Hotel Maps 72 Chinatown 131 Where to Stay from Knightsbridge to Where to Dine in the West End Earl’s Court 74 138 Where to Stay from Marylebone to Where to Dine in the City & on the Notting Hill 82 South Bank 149 Where to Stay in the West End 92 Central London Sights 158 Where to Stay in Victoria & Sights from Knightsbridge to Earl’s Westminster 105 Court 163 Index of London Restaurant Maps Sights North of Hyde Park 179 112 Central London Theaters 233 Where to Dine from Knightsbridge Cambridge 259 to Earl’s Court 118 Oxford 263 Where to Dine from Marylebone to Notting Hill 124 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s London from $90 a Day, 9th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s England from $75 a Day Frommer’s London Frommer’s Portable London Frommer’s England England For Dummies London For Dummies Best Day Trips from London 01 541072 FM.qxd 11/12/03 9:11 AM Page viii Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional).
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