chef LORENA GARCIA is leading the culture return of the change in the kitchen. honeybee

with culture

korean kalbi gets a makeover sizzle The American Culinary Federation features Quarterly for Students of NExt Publisher 20 Balance Mind and Body issue American Culinary Federation, Inc. Be part of the hospitality industry movement to • choose your path

Editor-in-Chief improve mental well-being. • nutritionist Stacy Gammill 26 From Trash to Treasure • what's hot for 2018 Senior Editor Karen Bennett Mathis, APR Chefs look beyond the big-name fish species to discover treasures in their local waters. Graphic Designer Kara Walter 34 A Sweet Solution Contributing Editors Honeybee colonies in the U.S. are on Maggie Hennessy the rebound thanks to chefs. Amelia Levin Jody Shee 20 26 34 Rob Benes

Direct all editorial, advertising and subscription inquiries to: departments American Culinary Federation, Inc. 180 Center Place Way 4 President’s Message St. Augustine, FL 32095 (800) 624-9458 ACF president Stafford T. DeCambra, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC, shares five keys to [email protected] success in the kitchen.

Subscribe to Sizzle: www.acfchefs.org/sizzle 6 Amuse-Bouche 10 things to know and do this quarter. For information about ACF certification and membership, go to www.acfchefs.org. 12 Slice of Life The beat goes on for Chef Kendall Ross as he tours the U.S. with hit musicians.

14 Classical V. Modern

@ACFChefs @acfchefs @acf_chefs wearechefs.com Wook Kang, CEC, and Eunsuk Kim demonstrate two ways to prepare traditional Korean Kalbi.

Sizzle: The American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking (ISSN 1548-1441), 40 By Degrees Spring Volume 14, Number 1, is owned by the Learn the steps to make cultured butter in-house for a difference your American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. Send email customers will notice. address changes to Sizzle at sizzlemagazine@ acfchefs.net. All rights reserved. Reproduction 42 Featured Ingredient without written permission of the publisher is forbidden. All views and opinions expressed Everything you need to know about dolphinfish, including recipes. in Sizzle are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers, employees, contractors or members of the 44 Beverage Class American Culinary Federation. Get a primer on mead, the oldest known alcohol to date. 46 The Interview Chef Lorena Garcia is leading the change in kitchen culture. 50 Last Bite Chef Jeremy Fox shares a recipe from his new cookbook On Vegetables. 53 The Quiz Read this issue? Now test your knowledge.

Cover: Lorena Garcia courtesy of Lorena Garcia Group.

2 Sizzle FALL 17 DISCOVER THE POWER OF THE CREDENTIAL

WHAT IS THE CDM, CFPP CREDENTIAL? The Certified Dietary Manager | Certified Food Protection Professional (CDM® | CFPP®) is a credential held by over 13,000 professionals who work in long-term care, acute care, and other non-commercial environments. CDM, CFPPs are nationally-recognized experts in foodservice management, menu planning, food preparation, application of nutrition principles, , personnel management, and much more! Culinary professionals are the largest growing segment of CDMs, CFPPs because of the huge demand in the healthcare sector for the dual expertise of culinary and foodservice management. Through their education and work experience, many chefs are already eligible to sit for the CDM Credentialing Exam. Visit www.CBDMonline.org to learn more!

3 REASONS A CHEF SHOULD BECOME A CDM, CFPP... 1. There is a high demand in healthcare dining for both CDM and culinary expertise. 2. Carrying these dual credentials is a highly competitive advantage, enabling “Coming from a background in and resorts across the Southwest, I always envisioned my career professionals to use their culinary knowledge in combination with their in that setting. It wasn’t until I took a position as an management skills. Executive Chef for a hospital that I realized the impact 3. A shift to healthcare can result in a more manageable schedule and work/life that I could make in the healthcare industry, and the impact the healthcare industry could make in my career. After obtaining my CDM, CFPP through ANFP, I realized two things; (1) The demands for chefs in healthcare will begin to rise very quickly, and (2) this career choice QUESTIONS? CONTACT US. will prove to be one that I can continue to grow in for a Certifying Board for Dietary Managers lifetime!” 406 Surrey Woods Drive | St. Charles, IL | 60174 800.323.1908 | www.CBDMonline.org - Executive Chef Rocky Dunnam, CEC, CDM, CFPP Amarillo, TX president’s message five keys to success in the kitchen president’s message

Five Keys to Success in the Kitchen By Stafford T. DeCambra, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC

Know the Mission sacrificing the quality of ingredients can Chef Stafford’s You must earn the title and privilege have a negative impact on the overall Recommended Reading of being a chef. A culinary certificate bottom line. If you look for shortcuts and Success: One Day at a Time or degree does not make you a chef; ways to cut corners, you will not succeed. John C. Maxwell (Thomas Nelson, 2001) hard work, sacrifice and refusal to take shortcuts is what earns you the title. As Adapt to Drive Progress To be your best self, your journey begins, look forward to Change is the one constant in life. Learn it takes practice, every opportunity to try new foods from what outcomes you can control, when dedication and different cultures, study the classics that to move on and when to ask for advice. time. I recommend honor the skill and dedication of those Passed over for a promotion you thought this book because who came before you, and find a mentor you deserved? Ask your supervisor how it applies to anyone who can help lead you on your journey. you can grow in the company and be open who is honing a to those suggestions. Adapting to change craft or skill. Have the Courage to Commit is a life skill that you acquire through This profession is a lifetime commitment practice and patience. Remember, never to being a work in progress. You must compromise on quality! he secret of success is train and practice your technique to “Tfound in your daily routine, develop your love for food and cooking. Remember Your Why springing from your dreams, vision Progress does not happen overnight When the rigor of the job seems and consistent self-discipline.” or even in the course of a single year. insurmountable, move past the – John C. Maxwell, author, Success: One Day at Practice patience alongside the technical negatives. Instead, commit yourself to a Time aspects of the profession. Becoming a practice. Familiarize yourself with the chef is a process, not a result. stage that becomes your home: the kitchen. Love for food, cooking and Shortcuts are Shortsighted making others happy is an amazing In this profession, shortcuts do not exist. reward in itself; not many professions offer this immediate gratification. To Stafford T. DeCambra, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC Eventually, you may develop ways to National President streamline operations and processes, become better, it takes an understanding American Culinary Federation but shaving minutes off ticket times by of what is required in pursuing this dream of becoming a chef.

4 Sizzle FALL 17 Childhood Nutrition Day October 16

Support this day by offering an awareness event in your community. The event can be as simple as offering a cooking demonstration, holding an activity session at a local school or getting a proclamation from the mayor. Please help us make an impact in communities around the country on, or around, October 16. Register your event on www.acfchefs.org/childhoodnutritionday.For tools and activities, visit the Chef & Child website at www.acfchefs.org/ccfprograms.

Don’t forget to tell us about your event. Email your story with photos to [email protected] amuse-bouche news & opportunities amuse-bouche

10 Things to Know and Do

1. Witness History during 2. Learn about ACFEF the ACF CMC Exam Apprenticeships The 2017 ACF Certified Master Chef® Apprenticeship is a combination of on- exam will take place in the state-of- the-job training and related classroom the-art culinary kitchens at Schoolcraft instruction that requires no previous College in Livonia, Michigan, Sept. 30 experience to enroll. The American to Oct. 8. The ACF CMC exam will Culinary Federation Education showcase the talents of 10 chefs who Foundation (ACFEF) has partnered seek the title of CMC, the highest level with the U.S. Department of Labor for of certification in the U.S. that a chef over 40 years to help aspiring chefs can receive. meet their goals at a fraction of the price of culinary school. The progressive eight-day exam tests candidates on healthy cooking, buffet Apprentices work full-time under catering, classical cuisine, freestyle a qualified supervising chef while cooking, global cuisine, and developing documented culinary pastry, continental and Northern skills. Graduates earn the opportunity European cuisines, and a market basket. to receive nationally recognized ACF Candidates are required to pass each certification upon completion. cooking segment with a score of 70 or higher, with a cumulative score of 75 to Fast track your career by finding a pass the exam. culinary apprenticeship. Visit the ACFEF Apprenticeship page to Follow the ACF Facebook page and discover where an apprenticeship website for daily exam updates and can take you. Are you currently in an candidate interviews. apprenticeship? ACF wants to hear about your experience. Apprenticeship Opportunities Apprenticeship Story

6 Sizzle FALL 17 3. Get Involved in Childhood Nutrition Day ACF is calling on chapters and chefs across the nation to hold Childhood Nutrition Day activities during the month of October. Childhood Nutrition Day is held on or around Oct. 16 and focuses on educating communities on childhood hunger, proper nutrition and obesity issues. Hosting an event can be as simple as doing a demonstration or offering healthy treats at a local school or community event. Ingredient of the Month page to catch To support you, ACFEF, through the up on all the ingredients and quizzes Chef & Child initiative, will provide from the beginning of the year. Take a ACF chefs and chapters with $150 grants picture of how you use the Ingredient and program toolkits to implement of the Month and post to Instagram or childhood nutrition programs in your Facebook with the hashtag #IOTM and community. Visit www.acfchefs.org/ tag @ACFChefs on Facebook or CND for more information. Share @acf_chefs on Instagram to be entered your photos from the event by tagging into monthly contests to win cool prizes. ACF on social media with the hashtag 5. ACF Young Chefs Club #ChildhoodNutritionDay The American Culinary Federation y Surve 4. Ingredient of the Month Young Chefs Club (ACFYCC) is YCC Social Media Contest in full swing for 18- to 25-year-old Take ACF ACF members. ACF is working with The ingredient of the month provides professional chefs in the field to monthly opportunities for you to earn generate content for online learning continuing education hours (CEHs) resources, webinars and other toward ACF certification. Each month, opportunities around the world. a new ingredient is released that will educate you on the origin, flavor and above: October's Your opinion matters and ACF wants to ingredient of the month is uses of the ingredient. hear from you! Take the online survey winter squash. to share your interests on what you below: Take part in ACF wants to see how you use these Childhood Nutrition Day need to succeed in your kitchen. ingredients in your kitchen! Visit the with a grant from ACFEF. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 7 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

7. Check out the 2018 ACF Event Series A core value of ACF is to provide education and networking opportunities for current and aspiring chefs. ACF events provide numerous networking opportunities with industry leaders, influencers and mentors to help you build foundational skills and earn CEHs toward ACF certifications.

6. Compete in a Knowledge Gather your colleagues and classmates Bowl Competition to plan a trip to a regional event in Charlotte, North Carolina, or Newport The Baron H. Galand Culinary Beach, California, or plan a trip to the Knowledge Bowl is a “Jeopardy”-style Big Easy, New Orleans, next summer. competition in which student teams compete regionally and then nationally Discounted hotel blocks are available to answer questions covering such on a first-come, first-served basis. Pay topics as nutrition, baking, culinary attention to early registration deadlines math, safety and sanitation, and the arts to save money! of classical and modern cooking. 8. Explore the Online The deadline to register your team Register for is Nov. 1. To advance to national Video Library Knowledge Bowl competition, teams must win in A true chef never stops learning. their respective regions. Regional The online video library on the ACF winners receive access to all education website has videos from past regional Check out 2018 sessions during Cook. Craft. Create. conferences, national conventions ACF events ACF National Convention & Show and from ACF industry partners and in New Orleans, as well tickets for influencers on a wide variety of topics, each team member and one coach to including sustainable seafood, knife the President's Grand Ball. Visit the skills, baking fundamentals and more. Knowledge Bowl page on the ACF website for more information. ACF Video Library

8 Sizzle FALL 17 9. Take a Written or Find a practical exam site near you and Practical Exam set your sights on ACF certification. Got questions? Contact the ACF Certification from ACF is a first step Certification Department to get the ball to show employers you take your ACF Certification rolling today: [email protected]. career seriously and that you have *Written Exams core, foundational skills in the kitchen. 10. Visit the ACF Job Board *Practical Exams Written and practical exams test Looking for your next big move or to your knowledge and skill and are the scope out future career opportunities? pathway to earning ACF certification to Check out the ACF Career Center, help you advance in your career and set where employers are actively searching you apart from other candidates. for ACF chefs. You can also take The assessment for certification advantage of the online resume-building practical testing is divided into four tool, learn important interview tips and general areas: safety and sanitation get feedback from a career coach. skills; organization; craftsmanship opposite: 1. Utah Valley University Culinary Arts skills; and finished product skills. ACF Job Board Institute competes in the The candidate’s skills are evaluated national Knowledge Bowl during the examination period through competition. 2. The 2018 Cook. Craft. frequent monitoring by the evaluators. Create. ACF National The practical examination is scored Convention & Show is overall as pass or fail. happening in New Orleans. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 9 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

Young Chefs Make Big Gains at Cook. Craft. Create. Chefs from across the nation convened at Disney’s Coronado Springs Resort July 9-13 to compete for national titles. Congratulations to all competitors for elevating the standard of excellence and raising the bar for America’s top culinary talent. Visit the ACF Flickr page to see all the competition photos.

Student Chef of the Year Madeline Black - Utah Valley University ACF Beehive Chefs Chapter Inc.

Black’s gold-medal winning dish was truffle-scented duck roulade finished in duck , utah honey lacquered duck thigh riblet, iron-seared foie gras with port and morel mushroom sauce, potatoes gratin, celeriac and pea puree, rhubarb chutney and summer vegetable medley.

Student Team National Championship Chefs de Cuisine Association of St. Louis Inc. Sponsored by Vitamix

Team members: Sean Pham, Derek Kaliszewski, Nick Norton, Nick Wenz and Tim Polacek; coaches: Brian Bernstein and Scott Scheible.

Teams competed in a two-part competition: the edible cold-food buffet platter and the signature four-course menu. The market basket of ingredients in the edible cold-food competition included rabbit, peas, corn, red lentils and habanero chilies. Teams then transitioned to prepare a signature four-course menu. The team's menu opposite: is posted in the ACF media room. 1. Madeline Black at the President's Grand Ball 2. St. Louis team prepares Knowledge Bowl Champions the edible buffet platter 3. St. Louis team at the Kendall College President's Grand Ball Sponsored by American Technical Publishers and Vitamix 4. McCrady earned a gold medal for his Team: Nikhil Bendre, CC, Brandy Freberg, Benton Givens and Joshua Ludwig; dishes 5. Kendall College Coaches: Wook Kang, CEC, and Nelia Salvi, CC Knowledge Bowl team at the President's Grand Ball Student teams competed in a “Jeopardy”-style competition with questions covering 6. Kendall College during competition 7. McCrady's culinary topics. Since 2010, Kendall College has claimed the national Knowledge main course 8. Black Bowl title four times and the regional title eight times. Team members are part of the during competition Chefs & Culinary Professionals of Chicagoland chapter.

10 Sizzle FALL 17 2 3

1 5

6

8 7 4

Hans Bueschkens Young Chefs Challenge Shayne McCrady Chefs de Cuisine Association of St. Louis Inc.

The Hans Bueschkens Young Chefs Challenge is a competition for chefs age 25 and under. Technical College in Kissimmee, Florida, hosted the Worldchefs Continental Tryouts for the Americas Competition in July. Chef Shayne McCrady, president of the ACF Young Chefs Club, earned a gold medal and the highest overall score against competitor Christy Barkman from Canada. Chefs were required to create four portions of a three-course meal that included a seabass starter, salmon entrée and a dessert utilizing Valrhona Chocolate and Dilmah Tea. 

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 11 slice of life kendall ross slice of life

Kendall Ross

Kendall Ross, chef de partie, does not stop moving, and he wouldn’t have it any other way. Ross is part of a traveling culinary team on tour with Rod Stewart and Cyndi Lauper, cooking three meals out of a mobile kitchen for a crew of about 100 people in a different location daily.

“We have a large transformer to power everything, two ovens, six induction burners, one flat top, two circulators, one cryovac machine, a Robot Coupe, KitchenAid mixer, pots and pans and smallwares that we pack on a trailer every night,” says Ross. He works directly with two other chefs, with complete creative control over the menu. “It’s a great environment,” he adds.

Traveling to a different city every night requires flexibility. “I’ve learned a Ross lot about adaptability, fluidity and efficiency,” he notes. Competing in ACF- sanctioned competitions undoubtedly helped prepare him for the logistical Kendall challenges of his role. “Working with limited equipment and space, I’ve of

learned to spread the pickups between the ovens, inductions and flat tops.” Courtesy At 24 years old, an ACF national member, Ross is a graduate of the ACFEF ne of the things apprenticeship program at The Broadmoor Hotel & Resort, Springs, Colorado, and staged in such acclaimed establishments as Daniel, that drew me “O The Nomad and The Gasparilla Inn & Club, to name a few. to cooking was being exposed to different His outlook is humble and optimistic: “It’s still early in my career. I’m still at cultures and places. It’s a the point where I’m learning the cuisine of the masters.” In his downtime, career that can take you he connects with chefs in cities that he met in years’ past. Indeed, anywhere in the world.” maintaining these connections, along with a solid work ethic, opened the door to this position. Share a day in your life! In the future, he plans to open an upscale-casual in Charlotte, Email the editor with your North Carolina, his hometown. For now, he is building on his experiences to Instagram handle to be  considered. find his voice and develop his own cuisine.

12 Sizzle FALL 17 8:00 a.m. 12:30 p.m. 3:15 p.m. 8:30 p.m. Ross

Kendall

of

Courtesy Ross Ross

9:30 p.m. Ross

Kendall Kendall

Kendall

of of

of

Courtesy Courtesy Courtesy 9:30 a.m. 5:30 p.m. Ross Slusarick Slusarick Slusarick

Sarah Sarah Sarah

Kendall

of

Credit: Credit: Credit:

Photo Courtesy Photo Photo

8:00 a.m. I butcher the meat and make a sauce 9:30 p.m. We arrive at the venue and unload from the trim. Fish is fabricated from I’m finished cleaning and packing and the kitchen: flat top and induction whole. Side dishes, garde manger watch the show from the side stage. burners set up, ovens turned on, prep platters, cheese boards and dessert tables set, and pots, pans and china is prepped. 11:00 p.m. are unpacked for service. 3:15 p.m. We cook and plate a special meal for Rod Stewart. I clean up and head 9:00 a.m. A special meal is prepared and plated back to the tour bus where after-show Breakfast prep begins with simple for Cyndi Lauper. food is provided, as well as a nice breakfast sandwiches. 5:30 p.m. selection of beer and wine. 9:30 a.m. Dinner is served. We serve four Breakfast is served. Lunch prep begins, entrees every day: a poultry, another meat dish, fish and vegetarian dish. which is usually something simple: an 9:30 a.m.: Octopus salad entrée and a vegetarian option. We serve sides and a starch, and 12:30 p.m.: Crispy pork service runs until 8:30. belly with baby bok choy 12:30 p.m. and a soy tamarind glaze. 8:30 p.m. 5:30 p.m. left to right: Lunch is served buffet style. The 1. Pan roasted duck breast with aspic glaze, brandied focus immediately switches to Breakdown begins: I clean equipment and dishes, and pack cases, with a cherries and cherry jus. dinner. I start on large tasks: braises 2. Slow roasted carrots with few pieces of equipment reserved. on the menu go in right away. honey, mint and yogurt. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 13 classical v. modern korean kalbi classical v. modern

Recipes by Wook Kang, CEC

orean Kalbi is a well-known, Before attempting the modern version traditional Korean dish. Beef of the dish, Kang worked with Kim to Kshort are first marinated in demonstrate the classical techniques, soy sauce, garlic, sesame oil, green flavors and assembly of Korean Kalbi. onions and a sweetener. Then the ribs “In creating the classical dish,” says are grilled, sliced and wrapped in fresh Kim, “I learned the traditional cooking lettuce leaves with white rice, process and original plating style, which a dollop of spicy red chili paste, known is simple yet fancy.” as gochujang, and a few slivers of raw And while the classical version of this or grilled garlic and shredded strips of dish may seem like a breeze, Kang green onion. warns that chefs should be careful to “This dish exemplifies what Korean research the ingredients for quality. cuisine is and can be,” says Chef Wook For instance, Kang states that for true Kang, CEC, assistant professor/ traditional ingredients, a substituted culinary arts instructor, Kendall item may not work to the extent of the College, Chicago, who was born in original, which is why it is important South Korea and raised in Chicago. This to test and research the ingredients and dish, traditionally served family style, the recipes to create the perfect dish. pays homage to the traditional foods of Kang’s inspiration for the modern Korea with its simplicity and freshness version of the dish came from how of quality ingredients. traditional Korean restaurants typically Kang’s commis for this ambitious serve the dish. “I wanted to showcase project is Eunsuk “Tony” Kim, a native the items presented in a unique way

top: Wook Kang, CEC of Seoul, South Korea, and currently that can highlight the same flavors on bottom: Eunsuk Kim a student at Kendall College majoring one plate.” All photography by in culinary arts, who has an interest in Jack Soltysik, www.jsoltysik.com French/Japanese fusion cuisine.

14 Sizzle FALL 17 classical modern korean kalbi korean kalbi 1. Flanken cut beef are marinated then grilled. 1. The modern version uses a prime grade English-style 2. Chapssal rice, also known as glutinous rice, is a short- beef short rib that is marinated then put under grain rice that becomes soft and sticky when cooked. before . 2. Ssamjang sauce is a modified gochujang, 3. Fresh cabbage kimchi is made from Napa cabbage created from mixing the gochujang with miso paste, and goes through an osmosis process. 4. Eggplant is sesame oil, vinegar and sesame seeds then swiped across sliced bâtonnet, a French vegetable cut that resembles the plate. 3. The traditional cabbage kimchi is replaced sticks or batons. 5. Marinated soybean sprouts provide a with kirby cucumbers. 4. A scallion ginger salad tops the fresh crunch. 6. The short ribs, rice and accompaniments cucumber kimchi. 5. Toasted puffed rice replaces the are wrapped in romaine lettuce leaves. 7. Gochujang steamed rice and is mixed with brown rice syrup and other paste is a spicy red chili paste. 8. Sliced jalapenos and flavors and molded into a stick. 6. Nasurtium flowers and garlic are optional toppings. micro greens add color and freshness.

When selecting the beef, Kang Both Kang and Kim say it is easy kimchi, garlic scallions and gochujang. recommends testing different grades to overseason the beef and careful “The lessons to be learned in creating of beef with an eye toward quality. considerations should be made to the modern dish are understanding Although both are grilled, the classical understand how to substitute key sous vide and interpreting the dish is marinated and immediately ingredients, such as adjusting the traditional flavors in a modern way,” cooked on a grill. The modern dish marination time and seasoning between says Kang. “Kimchi does not have to be takes the beef from the marinade to the English-style short rib and the cabbage-based,” he adds. sous vide before grilling. “It’s the best of flanken cut short rib. Indeed, that is what Kim likes most both worlds,” Kang says of the modern But perhaps most exciting about about this modern interpretation. “Be version. “The tenderness from the sous the modern interpretation are the original with the ingredient selection vide preparation and the smoky flavors accompaniments. Traditionally, Korean and explorative with the plating style,” that come from the grill.” Kalbi’s accompaniments are cabbage Kim recommends.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 15 classical v. modern korean kalbi

The modern dish incorporates the traditional accompaniments as a salad. The scallions are cut julienne, mixed with minced garlic, pickled ginger, Korean chili flakes (Gochugaru), sesame oil and sesame seeds. Additionally, the plain gochujang condiment is modified into another Korean sauce, called ssamjang, which is gochujang blended with miso paste, sesame oil, vinegar and sesame seeds.

Instead of steamed white rice, Kang and Kim chose to serve a toasted rice puff. “I was surprised to see chef’s plating ideas for the Kalbi dish and using crispy rice as a part of plating decoration,” says Kim, who enjoyed creating the modern dish because of the unique plating concepts.

The end result is a dish that is a perfect fusion of salty, sweet and umami, with textures that are both tender and crunchy.

Classical Recipe 4. Cover rice pot and reserve in Marinated Eggplant 3. Drain through strainer and oven for 15 minutes. Remove rice. Yield: 4 oz. immerse in ice water bath for Korean Kalbi Rest, covered, for 10 minutes. 114 g. Japanese eggplant, several minutes until cold to stop Yield: 4 servings 5. Fluff with fork or chopsticks batonnet slice cooking process. Drain well and and reserve warm or serve 1 oz. sesame oil set aside. Marinade immediately. 4. In a bowl, whisk together soy 1 lbs. beef short rib, flanken cut ½ oz. soy sauce ¼ oz. fish sauce sauce, sesame oil, Korean chili 16 oz. cold water Fresh Cabbage Kimchi 4 g. garlic, minced powder, garlic and sesame 56 g. brown sugar Yield: 8 oz. (4 2-ounce servings) 4 g. sesame seeds seeds. Stir in bean sprouts and 4 oz. soy sauce 227 g. Napa cabbage 4g. scallions, sliced thin toss until well coated. 1 oz. sesame oil 85 g. rock or coarse sea salt 5. Fold in scallions and season with 56 g. yellow onion, julienne 6 oz. cold water Method rice wine vinegar. 14 g. garlic, minced 28 g. yellow onion, julienne 1. Fill large pot with cold water. 6. Serve immediately or reserve for 32 g. scallions, sliced 1 14 g. scallion, sliced into ∕8-inch slices 2. Bring to boil then reduce future use. 14 g. fresh ginger, minced 85 g. Korean chili flakes (Gochugaru) to simmer. 14 g. garlic, minced Method 3. Add batonnet eggplants and Garnishes and 14 g. fresh ginger, minced 1. Place beef short ribs in large simmer 5 minutes, or until tender. Accompaniments ¼ oz. fish sauce 6 each romaine lettuce leaves bowl and add cold water. 4. Remove eggplant; let cool 8 g. sesame seeds, roasted 4 oz. steamed rice (recipe above) 2. Let ribs sit for 1 hour. completely. 14 g. garlic cloves, sliced 3. Remove ribs from water; dry well. 5. In a bowl, mix sesame oil, soy Method 28 g. scallions, 2-inch slices 4. Place ribs on sheet pan and sauce, fish sauce, garlic, sesame 1. Prepare main ingredients: rinse 1 seeds and scallions. 28 g. jalapeno peppers, ∕8-inch slices rub with brown sugar. Let sit 15 outer layers of Napa cabbage 6. Add chilled eggplant to bowl; let 56 g. marinated eggplant minutes. Move ribs to container in running water. Remove stems marinate 1 hour. (recipe above) and add soy sauce, sesame and cut leaves into long shapes 7. Serve immediately or reserve 56 g. marinated soybean sprouts oil, onions, garlic, scallions and using chef’s knife. for service. (recipe above) ginger; marinate 1 hour. 2. Place Napa cabbage in large 56 g. kimchi (recipe above) 5. Reserve for future use or grill over bowl. Add salt and water; mix Marinated Soybean Sprouts 4 oz. Gochujang paste medium-high heat. well. Place heavy object on Yield: 4 oz. top of cabbage to assist with As needed cold water Steamed Rice Plating and Assembly 1. Place grilled kalbi beef on large Yield: 4 servings adding saltiness to cabbage 114 g. soybean sprouts serving platter. 4 oz. short glutinous rice (osmosis process). ½ oz. soy sauce 2. On separate plates or in bowls, (Chapssal rice) 3. Press cabbage for 1 hour, mixing 1 oz. sesame oil arrange the lettuce, steamed 6 oz. cold water every 20 minutes. 3 g. Korean chili powder (Gochugaru) 4. After 1 hour, drain water. Rinse 4 g. garlic, minced rice, garlic cloves, scallions, Method cabbage in running water 3 g. sesame seeds jalapeno peppers, marinated 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. several times and shake off salt, 4g. scallions, sliced thin eggplant, marinated 2. Place rice in a bowl and rinse if any. Squeeze cabbage to ½ oz. rice wine vinegar soybean sprouts, kimchi and five times under cold water until remove excess water. gochujang paste. water is clear. 5. Add cabbage to large bowl. Add Method 3. Place rice in pot and add cold onions, scallions, Korean chili flakes, 1. Fill large pot with water and water. Bring rice and water to garlic, ginger, fish sauce and bring to boil. boil, then shut off heat. sesame seeds. Mix until blended. 2. Add bean sprouts. Cook Let sit for 15 minutes; reserve for uncovered until tender yet still future use or serve immediately. crisp, about 20 seconds.

16 Sizzle FALL 17 top: Chef Kang grills the marinated beef.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 17 classical v. modern korean kalbi

temperature doneness, reserve Korean chili flakes, garlic, honey, Modern Dish for future use or grill immediately. Korean salted shrimp and Korean Kalbi grated ginger. Toss to blend. Ssamjang 3. Keep mixture at room Yield: 4 servings Yield: 8 oz. temperature for 12 to 24 hours, 4 oz. Gochujang Marinade then refrigerate. Once chilled, 1 lbs. boneless beef short ribs 2 oz. Korean miso paste (Doenjang) serve immediately or reserve for (prime grade) 1 oz. sesame oil future use. 32 oz. cold water 1 oz. apple cider vinegar 56 g. brown sugar 4 g. garlic, minced Scallion Ginger Salad 4 oz. soy sauce 4 g. sesame seeds Yield: 4 oz. (4 servings at 1 oz. each) 1 oz. sesame oil 1 oz. honey 114 g. scallions, julienne 56 g. yellow onion, julienne 4 g. scallions, sliced thin 1 g. sea salt or kosher salt 14 g. garlic, minced 2 g. garlic, minced Method 32 g. scallions, sliced 1 g. Korean chili flakes (Gochugaru) 1. In a small bowl, combine all 14 g. fresh ginger, minced ½ oz. sesame oil ingredients and mix well to blend. 4 g. pickled ginger, julienne Method 1. Place beef short ribs in large pot Cucumber Kimchi Method Yield: 8 oz. (4 servings at 2 oz. each) with cold water. 1. Wash scallions and slice into 114 g. kirby cucumbers 2. Bring to a boil then lower to julienne pieces. Soak in ice water. 14 g. sea salt or kosher salt simmer for 10 minutes; skim and 2. Remove scallions from water 25 g. garlic chives degrease often. bath, dry and place in small 24 g. Korean chili flakes (Gochugaru) 3. After 10 minutes, rinse short ribs bowl. Add sea salt, garlic, Korean 4 g. garlic, minced under cold water. Remove ribs chili flakes, sesame oil and 1 oz. honey from water and dry well. pickled ginger. Toss to blend well. 8 g. Korean salted shrimp 4. Place short ribs on a sheet 3. Chill mixture and serve 4 g. fresh ginger, grated pan and rub with brown sugar. immediately or reserve for Let rest for 15 minutes. Place Method future use. ribs in sous vide bag and 1. Wash cucumbers and cross- add soy sauce, sesame oil, Crispy Rice cut into ½-inch long pieces. 1 cup short grain white rice onion, garlic, scallions and Put cucumber in large bowl 1 ½ cups water ginger. Seal bag per sous vide and scatter coarse sea salt on To taste kosher salt machine guidelines. top. Gently mix to distribute salt 16 oz. canola oil (for ) 5. Adjust and heat water via a evenly. Let sweat for 20 minutes. circulator and time accordingly 2. Gently brush salt from Method to machine guidelines. Once cucumbers and transfer to 1. Place rice, water and salt in meat has reached time and clean bowl. Add garlic chives, medium saucepan. Bring to boil,

18 Sizzle FALL 17 cover and reduce to simmer. slotted spoon to remove rice and 3. Roll a tablespoon-size mixture Cook 20 minutes. Remove from place on paper-towel lined plate. between your palms to form a heat and let rest, covered, for Repeat with remaining rice. stick (or use a mold). Repeat additional 10 minutes. with remainder of mixture. 2. Preheat oven to 250°F. Sweetened Puffed Rice 3. Spread rice onto small baking Sticks Plating and Assembly Yield: 8 puffed rice sticks 1. On a square plate, brush sheet. Bake (to dehydrate) in 4.5 oz crispy rice (recipe above, or ssamjang sauce with a pastry oven for 2 hours. The rice should use puffed rice cereal) brush across the plate from be dry and hard when done. 2 ½ oz. brown rice syrup corner to corner. Refrigerate at least one hour. ¼ oz. vanilla extract 2. Place the grilled short rib in center. Note: These last steps are the most To taste sea salt 3. Place one piece of cucumber important to puff the rice. kimchi next to short rib. Method 4. Place one piece of sweet 4. In medium saucepan, add 1. Add crispy rice to large rice stick across top from the enough oil to reach ½-inch mixing bowl. cucumber kimchi. depth. Heat over medium heat 2. In a medium saucepan, 5. Arrange scallion salad next to until shimmering. To test oil, add add brown rice syrup, vanilla grilled short rib. a single piece of rice; if it sizzles extract and salt. Heat over low 6. Garnish the plate with micro around the rice kernel it is ready. heat until syrup melts, stirring bulls’ blood, micro lettuce and 5. Add half of rice to pot and cook to combine. When mixture one nasturtium flower. about 30 seconds, just until rice is smooth and mixed, pour puffs up. Note: this happens very directly into bowl with puffed quickly; do not overcook or the rice. Stir until evenly combined. rice will be too crunchy. Use a

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 19 mind & body mind & body Be part of the hospitality industry movement to improve mental well-being. by Jody Shee industry movement is gaining doesn’t leave us very stable,” Lamb says, especially momentum unrelated to creative or when you put your heart and soul into creations that classic dishes, seasonal ingredients customers may not like. “It’s hard to stay grounded in oran novel culinary techniques. Rather, it focuses on the an environment like that, and if you’re not grounded, physical and mental well-being of those in hospitality. you’re susceptible to self-medicating or using other substances to stabilize emotionally.” “As chefs, the odds are against us to take care of our bodies and be healthy nutritionally and exercise,” says But the climate is changing as the industry at large Charles Carroll, CEC, AAC, executive chef, River Oaks begins to recognize and address the importance of Country Club, Houston. Working early morning to late physical and mental health. night, weekends and holidays takes its toll. Fight for Fitness The rigors of being on your feet, bending over and Carroll, who is also immediate past president of often operating on adrenaline leads to genuine physical the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS), problems, including back pain and adrenal dysfunction, helped start the physically fit chef movement in that lead to medication, either doctor- or self-prescribed, 2014 when he brought Hollywood physique expert says Adam Lamb, Asheville, North Carolina-based chef, Eric Fleishman (aka Eric the Trainer) to the WACS culinary career coach, author and speaker. “I lost the Congress in Stavanger, Norway, to give a physical best job I ever had because I was addicted to physician- fitness presentation. prescribed opioids from back surgery.” Following his 30-minute session, Fleishman spent Add to that the unsavory influences that exist in some the rest of the week in the gym where chefs filed in kitchen cultures, and the slippery slope toward substance unsolicited to work out with him. abuse, addiction, depression and worse begins. “If you start working out, you start feeling better and Lamb believes chefs are prone to substance abuse you start caring more about what you put in your because they are passionate about their career. “That body,” Carroll says. “As you get more excited about the passion is fueled by what we do every day, but it

22 Sizzle FALL 17 shape you’re in, you start cooking better for his mind is. He suggests visiting the doctor yourself and for your customers. It’s a nice for a physical as a preventative measure to healthy circle to aim for.” determine what levels may be high or low. “It’s nicer to correct issues with fitness than After the Norway WACS Congress, Carroll with medicine or surgery,” he says. recruited Fleishman to help present fitness at the American Culinary Federation national Get Grounded convention with repeat performances to Lamb came back into the industry with a new packed rooms each year thereafter. outlook after dealing with his drug addiction, Fleishman, who was fitness pioneer Jack and frequently speaks on how to have a LaLanne’s final apprentice before he died in fulfilling, healthy culinary career, beginning 2011, notes that LaLanne loved the kitchen with community. “When you look at some of and always tried to find innovative ways the high-profile suicides by chefs, you see they to help those involved with food. “He was were isolated,” he says. Community helps you dedicated to making the world a better place to stay connected with others, assuring there’s through diet and fitness, and before he died, someone to talk to in rough times. he asked me if I would do it,” Fleishman says. He also suggests developing a habit of daily Thus, his drumbeat to chefs is diet, exercise self-care or revitalization through yoga, and proper sleep. walking, running or just being quiet for 10 “I’m on a mission to make chefs feel their best,” minutes. “Find a way to ground yourself in a he says. “As culinary artists of our time, with way that’s responsible and good for your body,” he says. “When you’re out of balance, pull back a healthy lifestyle, they can dazzle us in the above from left: kitchen and beyond.” and capture that sense of grounding.” 1. Charles Carroll, CEC, AAC, executive chef, River Oaks Carroll’s self-motivated fitness method is Hobbies also help you to maintain stability. Country Club, Houston to put a checkmark on his calendar on the Creative chefs are often creative in other 2. Adam Lamb, Asheville, North Carolina-based chef, days he makes time to work out, with a areas that can provide a sense of satisfaction culinary career coach, bare-minimum goal of 15 times per month. and wholeness, Lamb says. Hobbies broaden author and speaker. 3. Eric Fleishman (aka Eric He measures his fitness by his calendar your interests, providing outlets to help you the Trainer), Hollywood checkmarks, how he looks and how clear navigate the tough times. physique expert. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 23 Develop Personal Disciplines you quit showing up for work. When faced with unhealthy temptations, He suggests being selfish and not going along personal disciplines will help you overcome, just to have fun and impress people. “You starting with goal-setting and goal-keeping. have to get over that. Think of yourself. That’s “At the end of a shift, after working hard and not a bad trait to have,” he says. long hours, everyone goes out partying and These are some of the harsh realities of drinking. The kitchen quickly becomes your the real world versus the culinary school life, and on a positive note, your family. But experience, says Brian Beland, CMC, they aren’t always good influences,” says Chip executive chef and director of food and Flanagan, executive chef at Ralph’s on the beverage at Country Club of Detroit, Detroit, Park, Metairie, Louisiana, a part of Ralph and full-time instructor at Schoolcraft Brennan Restaurant Group. Throughout College, Livonia, Michigan. With one foot his career, he has looked at those social in the culinary industry and one foot in situations with the idea that he could say no education, he observes that culinary students to anything. often have an unrealistic view of paid jobs. “In “I wasn’t in it to make friends. I had goals, school, you work in groups and with partners. and the most important thing was working But in an actual kitchen environment, toward those goals,” he says. He recommends you work independently with a long list thinking through and rededicating yourself to of things to do that require multi-tasking and deadlines.” Often, employers become above from left: 1. Aaron your goals once a week or once a month. Lirette, executive chef, frustrated when production expectations GreenRiver, Chicago “There are kitchens where the culture is all aren’t met. This is the beginning of the stress 2. Brian Beland, CMC, about partying and weed. If that that can escalate to a tipping point. executive chef and director of food and beverage, doesn’t help you in your journey to achieve Country Club of Detroit, and your goals, get out and go to another kitchen,” Have Open Discussions instructor at Schoolcraft Flanagan says. Otherwise, problems will grow College, Livonia, Michigan. Fortunately, the stresses of the hospitality 3. Chip Flanagan, executive as you join in, start to enjoy substances and industry are coming out into the open chef, Ralph’s on the Park, make them a habit, then an addiction. Finally, Metairie, Louisiana. through social media, blogs and articles,

24 Sizzle FALL 17 NExt issue choosing your path

Beland says. He encourages culinary Lirette partnered with Hope for the Join the Conversation students to participate in the adult Day, a suicide-awareness organization By joining the conversation in mental-health conversations, starting with listening that offers outreach and education. The awareness, you can reduce the stigma associated with it. Share these resources to mentors, family, friends and dinner raised $12,000, and Lirette is with your staff, students and colleagues: professional colleagues who try to planning another dinner. ƒƒ Conquering the Kitchen fitness video point out the problems they see. But series by Hollywood physique expert Like others, he suggests getting into a Eric the Trainer features seven beginner besides that, be willing to confront healthy routine that includes stretching workouts for chefs ideal for use in others in trouble. small, confined places. and working out. “It’s a physical job. You ƒƒ The Foodwerks Incorporated website One of Beland’s employees began self- may be fine at 25, but as you get up there, by Adam Lamb serves as a portal to medicating for back pain and stress and your body will break down,” he says. resources to help achieve personal and professional culinary career fell into substance abuse. “I had a choice success, including a blog, link to Chef As an industry outsider, Eric the Trainer of terminating him or helping him,” Life Radio and other mental-health has noticed a change in ACF members. resources. Lamb offers his story in the Beland says. “I feel it is our obligation blogpost “The Gorilla in the Kitchen.” “I came to the convention the first time to help those we care about. We helped ƒƒ Restaurant Recovery provides and looked around the room at chefs this person and squared him up.” comprehensive solutions in multiple in their white jackets with medals like ways to address addiction and its effects on restaurant employees, their Aaron Lirette, executive chef at they were in a war—with a genteel air, families and the restaurant industry. Chicago’s GreenRiver, a Michelin- but not that spark of youth, and not that ƒƒ The Heirloom Foundation is a starred restaurant by Danny Meyer’s thing that makes you excited. But we’ve support organization for industry members to openly discuss work/ Union Square Hospitality Group, found seen change come in,” he says. “I want life balance challenges, including a highly visible way to bring attention these culinary artists of our time to live substance abuse, addictions and mental illness. It funds programming  to the mental-health perils of the long, healthy and happy lives.” that enables culinary professionals to thrive and offers related grants. hospitality industry. He and six other Jody Shee, an Olathe, Kansas-based well-respected chefs and mixologists freelance writer and editor, previously ƒƒ Chefs With Issues is a blog that invites from Chicago held a six-course benefit was editor of a foodservice magazine. industry members to share their stories and resources for dealing with the She has more than 20 years of food- dinner at GreenRiver to raise money and particular pressures of restaurant life. writing experience and writes the blog ƒ awareness for mental health. They called www.sheefood.com. ƒ Hope for the Day is an organization it Food Gives Me Hope, to honor and focused on proactive suicide prevention by providing outreach and help pay funeral expenses for an industry mental health education. friend who had committed suicide.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 25 trash om to

by Amelia Levin

hefs have many resources for identifying sustainably caught and farmed seafood to serve in their restaurants. Some chefs, however, have taken csustainable seafood sourcing a step further, looking beyond the big-name species to track down bycatch and lesser- known species, many of which are in nearby bodies of water. a new way to source “Trash fish” is the new evolution of sustainable seafood. But we’re not talking about trash in the general sense of the word. Hari Pulapaka, CEC, James Beard award-winning chef of Cress in DeLand, Florida, prefers terms like “underutilized” or “lesser-known” fish that are indigenous to local waters, but haven’t been used much by chefs, until now.

“I’m not a big fan of the term ‘trash fish,’ which can connote something that is trashy in flavor,” Pulapaka says. “In reality, a lot of the bycatch that fishermen don’t want because it won’t earn them a lot of money in the current market is actually quite delicious when prepared well. It is our role as chefs to be creative and teachers for the general public, and to try and figure out ways to serve these species so they are not ‘trashy’ at all.” native species shine Van Aken compares the growing knowledge and proliferation of “trash fish” to the trendy rise of Nordic cuisine, which has taught chefs to look around and forage for what’s native to their communities. Many chefs are beginning to discover and prize native species with the same curiosity.

“It’s all about education,” he says. Some could also say it’s all about marketing, too. Take the fish name “tilapia” for example, which is actually a supplier term for hundreds of species of cichlid fish. Likewise, “red snapper” is simply another name for several species Celebrated Chef Norman Van in the lutjanus and sebastes families. Calling Aken, another vocal proponent lesser-known species like “squirrelfish” by of serving underutilized fish, another, more appetizing name could be the also sources lesser-known ticket to their wider adoption. species from the Florida coast. A frequent presenter on the Even fast casuals have gotten in the “trash topic, including most recently fish” game. SlapFish, a seafood franchise, at Cook. Craft. Create. ACF has sought to expand its offering of wild- National Convention & caught, lesser-known fish through Sea to Show in Orlando, Van Aken Table, a sustainable seafood supplier out of Brooklyn, New York. The chain serves Stone works closely with his seafood

suppliers and his team of chefs up wild Chesapeake blue catfish as an David

by alternative to imported, farmed catfish; to source and serve lesser- known fish to help improve Acadian redfish from the Gulf of Photo native biodiversity and educate and Pacific Dover Sole from Oregon and the public. Washington are alternatives to overused, often imported tilapia. “It’s almost humiliating to know there is so much great fish here that fishermen are “There is a bounty of high-quality, well- exporting to Canada, Europe and South managed seafood right off our own America, and that the majority of fish coastline—arguably the best seafood in the consumed in the U.S. actually comes from world, yet only a small percentage of it ends overseas,” Van Aken says. Showcasing up on our plates,” says Chef Andrew Gruel, lesser-known fish, therefore, helps local founder and CEO of Slapfish. “Our menu is

above: 1. Florida economies here. “We’re trying to get beyond developed around the model of ‘choose the lionfish served at monoculture and broaden our guests’ desire dish, not the fish.’” Pulapaka's restaurant, to get beyond snapper and grouper.” Cress.2. Lionfish with salsa verde from The Lionfish Cookbook.

28 Sizzle FALL 17 a Chef’s role commercial fisheries find new revenue The U.S. has more sovereign fishing streams as demand for these different territory than any other country on the species continues to increase. planet, according to National Oceanic “What chefs like us are doing is Sustainable Seafood and Atmospheric Administration no different than the farm-to-table Resources for Chefs (NOAA). Still, over 90 percent of the movement,” Hoffman says. Working seafood consumed by Americans comes ƒƒ Monterey Bay Aquarium with your local anglers to find new Seafood Watch Lists from overseas, and half of it is farm “green” and “red” choices for species of fish native to your region is sustainable versus overfished raised, the agency states. no different from working with your or endangered species. And while education and marketing local farmer to find new heirloom ƒƒ Marine Stewardship Council Nonprofit play huge roles in making lesser-known varieties of tomatoes or other produce. organization working with “It’s all about developing relationships partners to encourage fish more widely known, so does proper sustainable seafood cooking technique, of course. “We’re and being more in tune with our practices and that uses its changing environments. It’s about own MSC-certified blue all still learning, but once we figure out labels on packaging to call how to cook some of this fish, we’re making smarter choices and trusting out sustainable fish products. helping diners enjoy what has typically these food experts.” ƒƒ National Oceanic and Atmospheric been ignored,” says Pulapaka. Often, suppliers will make suggestions Administration (NOAA) The U.S. Department Better yet, says Rich Hoffman, CEC, about new species while at other times, of Commerce’s agency dedicated to educating CCA, division executive chef, Genesis Hoffman will ask his suppliers if they the consumer public about have or can get lesser-known species. changing environmental Healthcare, who has presented on conditions from the sea to lesser-known species of the Chesapeake He’s gone beyond simply serving the surface of the sun. Bay Watershed, “If you eat local, the well-known, but over-sourced ƒƒ Fishchoice.com blue crab to serve lesser- An online, sustainable seafood sustainable fish and shellfish, you don’t sourcing tool connecting run into the problems a lot of imported known fish out of the Chesapeake Bay, buyers with suppliers. fish have, like high mercury levels like blowfish, spiny dogfish, snakehead, ƒƒ Regional councils soft shell clams and blue catfish. Organizations that develop and other toxins,” he says. “Not only science-based fishery that, but we’re doing our part to help management plans with The waters of our world are literally our open public processes in fishermen here and help them have a oyster, Pulapaka and other like-minded different parts of the country. market so they don’t have to ship their chefs say, if only we learn how to discover, ƒƒ Alaska RFM product overseas.” A third-party certification cook and educate our guests with these program to identify and lesser known and overlooked fish. document sustainable a Reliable outcome fisheries in Alaska. Amelia Levin is an award-winning food ƒƒ Smart Catch Sustainable seafood was once defined industry writer, certified chef and cookbook A program launched by the as simply following watch lists put out author. Her work has appeared in a variety James Beard Foundation to help restaurants and chefs of restaurant industry trade magazines as by such organizations as Monterey to self-audit and voluntarily Bay Aquarium, NOAA and others. But well as in the Chicago Tribune, Health and report their seafood supply. Cooking Light magazines. sourcing lesser-known fish brings two advantages: balancing out our natural ecosystems without overfishing one common type like grouper or snapper, and the economic advantage of helping

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 29 Blue catfish, an invasive species, can stand in for imported catfish when battered with a creative crust. for the Soft shell clams, nicknamed pisser clams, have finally come back on the local seafood scene as an alternative to razor clams after a damaged past.

Explore how chefs use creative textures and Hari Pulapaka, CEC, chef/ flavors to menu lesser-known fish species. owner, Cress, DeLand, Florida Rudderfish is a firm fish similar to Wahoo or Cobia. Pulapaka grills it with a flavorful, tamarind-scotch bonnet pepper glaze and finishes it in the oven for a rich Hoffman, CEC, CCA, slightly caramelized crust. division executive chef, Pulapaka describes lionfish as Genesis Healthcare, Maryland super delicate. He pan-roasts A blowfish tail is very tiny. it in fresh herbs and beurre Remove the center bone blanc. He also smokes or grills and it looks like a beautifully it for . “Eating invasive butterflied shrimp, with a species like these helps us as delicate, sweet flavor. Hoffman chefs do more to keep our skewers and grills the tails, ecosystems in check,” he says. sautés them scampi-style or even Black drum is akin to the type uses sous vide to cook the tails. of redfish that NOLA Chef Spiny dogfish, part of Paul Prudhomme often served the shark family, is also with a blackened crust. Instead part of Hoffman’s cooking of the heavier spices, Pulapaka repertoire. “We use a prefers a simpler spice base smoking gun to lightly sauté with fresh herbs and panko. the whole fish under a glass He cooks the mild and flaky dome so you get the whole fish in with effect,” he says. “Like shark, a quick finish in the oven to it has a firm texture with a preserve texture and flavor touch of oiliness that really without the deep-fried effect. helps the smoke penetrate He prefers to put whole the fish so you’re able to mullet in the smoker, and infuse flavor quickly.” then debones it before using it

30 Sizzle FALL 17 NExt issue what's hot for 2018

in a rillette or even a seafood suppliers what they had on sausage. “Mullet can be hard their boats,” says Mendoza, to find because it doesn’t who prefers to slow-cook or sell well among commercial poach the fish in olive oil or chains, so it’s not something duck fat because of its delicate, fishermen will spend a lot of flakier flesh. time catching.” Squirrelfish, a bycatch fish with bright and silvery red fins, has a unique texture Chef norman van on its own and can be a Aken, HHOF, chef/owner, substitute for red snapper. “It NORMAN’s, The Ritz-Carlton almost has the same texture Orlando, and 1921 by Norman when cooked like a tender piece of pork loin,” says Van Aken, Mt. Dora, Florida Mendoza, who often skewers Andres Mendoza, executive the fish -style, grilling chef, NORMAN’S, serves it over Japanese charcoal. Florida Rudderfishaguachile- Mendoza also experiments with style, which is a Mexican-style the flaky and freshbarracuda , ceviche, with charred corn and preparing it in the form of a opposite from top: aji panca salsa. Yucatan or Mexican ceviche— 1. Chef Rich Hoffman lightly cured with citrus juices, Barrelfish is a bycatch 2. Chef Hari Pulapaka salt, cilantro and jalapeno. of wreckfish and a highly clockwise from top: underutilized variety available 1. Ingredients for along Florida’s east coast and Barracuda ceviche along the Carolinas. “We 2. Prepared discovered it after asking our barracuda ceviche. 3. Chef Norman Van Aken

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 31 Alaska Herring by Amelia Levin hile Alaskan seafood may conjure packed in a creamy herb sauce, Lexi and chefs up thoughts of Pollock, salmon and from the Alaska Herring Week program prefer the halibut, many other species are native leaner, firmer, milder tasting flesh of the fish when Wto and sustainably fished in the region. One such sustainably farmed, wild caught and untreated. species is Alaskan herring. During Seattle’s Alaska Chef Megan Coombes, chef/general manager Herring Week, 60 restaurants in the city menued of Altstadt, the fish, including many James Beard award- Seattle, is one winning restaurants. Susan Marks, sustainability of the leading director at the Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute proponents of the (ASMI), wouldn’t be surprised to see the fish pop species, serving up on menus across the country as distribution it on her menu

channels broaden. adt as Steckerlfisch, Alst

of “Alaska herring is one of the largest, most which is the abundant and sustainable fisheries in the world, Austrian or but it has largely disappeared from U.S. menus Bavarian method Courtesy and fish markets,” she says. TheAlaska Herring of grilling fish on wooden skewers. She grills the Development Project, a program of ASMI, has herring in this style after it marinates in a smoked sought to reintroduce the wild and under-loved herb oil. She serves it alongside pickled cherries and fish into the domestic market. Starting with Seattle a zucchini-hazelnut spätzle salad lightly dressed with area’s culinary scene, the project seeks to support sage vinaigrette. In the past, Coombes has also served local fisheries dedicated to expanding the country’s the herring marinated in a quark cheese sauce and in sustainable food supply. a beet liquid alongside beet sauerkraut puree, strawberry, rhubarb pickles and boiled egg. In an effort to support that mission, Alaska Herring Week was founded in 2015 by Lexi (he doesn’t All seafood fished in Alaska is sustainable, adhering reveal his last name) of Old Ballard Liquor Co., an to the rigorous standards set forth by the Alaska artisan neighborhood distillery that pays homage Responsible Fisheries Management (RFM) and to Scandinavian liqueurs like Aquavit. “I founded Marine Stewardship Council certification programs, this event three years ago, when I discovered that according to Marks. Alaska RFM in particular not only was herring unavailable in Seattle, the provides credible standards for sustainable public was unaware of the fish, too,” he says. “Once fishing and supply chain traceability and provides I found out that the Puget Sound herring stocks had documented, third-party assurance of responsible silently crashed a full decade ago, I decided that it sourcing policies. Herring, the “under loved,” wild was an important cultural and ecological issue that and abundant fish falls in this category and offers deserved some attention.” a new avenue for chefs looking to explore trending Nordic and other cuisines favoring the species.  While many Scandinavian traditionalists remain loyal to the Atlantic herring that is salted and often

32 Sizzle FALL 17 The Culinary Insider

All the news that’s fit to consume

ACF’s bi-weekly e-newsletter

• Important • Upcoming ACF news events • Member • Competition benefits and schedules discounts • Industry • Continuing opportunities education • Partner opportunities updates • Chapter • Recipes and information techniques

Visit the ACF website to subscribe today! www.acfchefs.org

A Sweet Solution Chefs restore honeybee colonies in the U.S. By Maggie Hennessy

itting down to a meal, it is easy to acknowledge the work of the chef or cook who prepared it, or the farmer who raised the ingredients. Much less obvious, though, S are the efforts of the tiny, fuzzy honeybee in getting that food to your plate. One in three mouthfuls of food in the American diet is, in some way, a product of honeybee pollination—be it fruit, nuts or kidney beans. By simply foraging for Bogacki

John

of

courtesy

Photo essman W

James

of

courtesy

Photo

sustenance in your backyard garden, colony collapse reported between 2015 these little creatures perform the and 2016. Experts attribute these losses essential transfer of pollen that allows to multiple compounding factors. top from left: plants to reproduce. 1. Beekeepers inspect “Colony collapse disorder is a generic chef/beekeeper John “Cucumbers, melons, blueberries, term for several things, but I think most Bogacki’s hives at Westwood Country avocados—the list is too long for of it can be traced to bad beekeeping,” Club. At the start of the me to name off all the crops bees are says Matt Sanchez, chef and apiary season between March and June, he checks responsible for,” says beekeeper James manager at Sawgrass Marriott Golf on the hives every 10 Wessman, CEC, owner of Bottom Stung Resort & Spa, Ponte Vedra Beach, to 14 days. Working all Beekeepers, Orlando, Florida. “Without Florida. “Bees can starve if there isn’t 10 hives requires a few hours, he says. pollination, there’s no way to maximize enough to forage, for example, in 2. Elizabeth Wessman, crop production.” places with a lot of grass—which is CDC, apprentice wind pollinated—or mono-cropping, beekeeper and co- That food supply has been at risk for owner of Bottom Stung which is unfortunately the way of several years, as both wild populations Beekeepers, with a frame industrialized agriculture. And we’ve of bees. and managed honeybee colonies lost many due to parasites like the opposite right: remain in decline. Last year, about 8 Elizabeth Wessman varroa mite, one of the biggest threats percent of honeybees disappeared, holds roughly 300 bees to honeybee health.” in her hand. an improvement over the 44-percent

36 Sizzle FALL 17 Getting Started is essential both for It’s not surprising that chefs are taking education and to establish a support system. up the torch to rebuild the honeybee essman W population as more develop an interest “You get a lot of James in food reaching further up the supply of

camaraderie with fellow chain. Sanchez got into beekeeping beekeepers, share

following an unsuccessful effort to grow courtesy experiences and feed tomatoes in the resort garden around

off each other,” says Photo eight years ago. John Bogacki, CEC, CCE, AAC, executive “I couldn’t get my tomatoes to set Beekeeping Basics chef of Westwood Country Club in fruit, so being in a hot place like James Wessman, CEC, estimates Florida I started looking at it from the St. Louis, who started beekeeping as a the initial investment in proper hobby about six years ago and now has beekeeping is about $1,500. perspective of the flowers needing to be Below are his recommendations pollinated,” he says. “You can’t pollinate 10 hives. on tools and materials: flowers without pollinators, so I bought ƒƒ Bees should be purchased He recently harvested honey from his from an established apiary a box of bees.” hives and stores the honey in four-gallon ƒƒ A vented bee suit and boots are needed to handle the bees He stresses that there’s a big distinction buckets. Bogacki plans to use the honey ƒƒ Woodenware to build a stand between being a “bee-haver” and a for a honey sabayon gratin with fresh cherries and honey shortbread at his club. ƒƒ A hive tool (small crowbar) to beekeeper—the latter requiring a lot open the hive of research and care. He recommends ƒƒ Extractor for harvesting honey potential beekeepers start by reading Patchwork state ƒƒ A smoker, which masks the classics such as ABC and XYZ of Bee pheromones bees release to Culture (41st Ed.) and the American certifications signal danger when they sting Wessman and Sanchez are certified Bee Journal. beekeepers through the University Like farming, beekeeping is heavily of Florida Extension’s five-year regional, because bees forage within a Click here to download Master Beekeeper program. There Chef Wessman's three-mile radius of the hive. Joining a are similar programs designed to presentation "Culinary local beekeepers’ association right away increase the knowledge and skill level Beekeeping for the Executive Chef."

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 37 Honey Chocolate Chia Pudding with Oh Honey! Pecans Recipe courtesy of the National Honey Board Yield: 3 to 4 servings (depending on dish size) Board

Ingredients 12 oz 2% (plain milk Honey alternatives can be used) 1/3 cup chia seeds National 1 oz unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted the 3 T honey of 1/4 t sea salt 1/2 t chocolate extract

1 cup Oh Honey! Pecans (recipe follows) Courtesy

Method of participating beekeepers at such 1. Combine milk, chia seeds, cocoa powder, The life of a honey, sea salt and chocolate extract in schools as Cornell University’s College mixing bowl; whisk vigorously to combine. of Agriculture and Life Sciences, honeybee 2. Portion into serving cups. Cover and chill in refrigerator for 30 minutes. After University of Missouri Extension, Most beekeepers start out with a 30 minutes, stir each with a spoon to single nucleus colony, or “nuc,” which disperse chia seeds. University of Georgia and A&M 3. Cover and return to refrigerator; allow to University AgriLife Extension. refers to a five-frame deep box and set overnight (mixture will achieve a thin, a small colony composed of 5,000 pudding-like consistency). Nevertheless, beekeeping licenses and 4. Serve chilled, topped with bees and a single queen. The nuc is Oh Honey! Pecans. registration requirements vary widely transferred into a full-body hive, or by state. There aren’t any requirements 10-frame deep box, to multiply and Oh Honey! Pecans in Bogacki’s home state of Missouri, or Yield: 1 cup grow, then a second 10-frame deep his home county of St. Louis County, box, called the brood chamber, is Ingredients but it’s best to check with your local 2.5 oz honey, warmed added. On reaching maturation, the 3.5 oz pecans government, he says. two hives will have anywhere from 1 1/2 t caster sugar 60,000 to 80,000 bees inside. Florida requires beekeepers to register Method and pay a fee based on the number 1. Preheat oven to 350° F. Bees are vegetarians, obtaining 2. In medium bowl, stir together warmed honey of hives per acre (one to five, $10 per their protein from pollen and their and pecans, tossing to coat completely. year; six to 10, $20 per year, etc.). Once carbohydrates from nectar, meaning 3. Spread in single layer on shallow baking pan lined with parchment paper or registered, a state bee inspector will their lives are inextricably tied to Silpat. Sprinkle with caster sugar. inspect the hive to ensure no American flowering trees and plants. “Honeybees 4. Bake for 12 minutes; stir, and bake an additional 5 minutes. foulbrood exists (a deadly, widespread have evolved together with flowers,” 5. While still warm, transfer to clean sheet bee brood disease). They typically Sanchez says. “They even see ultraviolet of parchment paper or foil and quickly separate pecans with fork or knife. return every few years to check in. light, so flowers display nectar guides 6. Cool completely and remove nuts. Use almost like arrows indicating where immediately, or store layered between “They’re an excellent resource,” wax paper in an airtight container at they should land.” room temperature for up to 5 days. Sanchez says. “They’ll guide you and give pointers to know a little more A honeybee colony comprises about what you may need. And they’ll mainly female worker bees, a single come out for free to help you if you reproductive female queen and a few have problems.” hundred male drones, whose purpose

38 Sizzle FALL 17 NExt issue nutritionist

is to mate with the queen. The queen in April and May. The strength of the is responsible for every single egg nectar flow and how much honey in the colony, even though she flies the bees store determines when a and mates just once in her lifetime. beekeeper harvests. On average, one In spring, she lays around 1,500 eggs hive yields 100 to 150 pounds of honey per day when the colony is at its most per harvest. For perspective, Wessman prolific. When the flowers and pollen says the life’s work of 12 bees equals dry up in the fall, the drones are driven about a teaspoon of honey. out of the colony. Harvesting may be disruptive to the The worker bees’ job is maintaining complex little society inside the hive, the colony—from collecting food to but it actually helps maintain it. If a cleaning the hive, removing the dead, hive becomes too full of honey, the guarding the colony and regulating the bees will decide as a group to either temperature—which is always 93°F , divide or swarm, a process through regardless of the season. These duties which about half the worker bees change as bees grow. Early in life, they abandon the hive with the old queen clean out the honeycomb and feed their to form a new colony. fellow bees. It is only in their last week Indeed, like much of beekeeping, honey of life that they venture out to forage. extraction illuminates one of many ways Once they return from foraging, they honeybees and humans need each other hand off the nectar and pollen to a to survive. younger worker to deposit in hexagonal “Beekeeping really tunes you to wax cells. The bees add enzymes to the environment and food,” Sanchez nectar, and then fan the mixture with says. “There’s beauty in what the bees their wings to evaporate the water until represent. They need us as much as we it reaches about 17 percent moisture, need them.” leaving behind thick, sweet honey. They seal the frames with wax, and come Maggie Hennessy is a Chicago-based winter, the clustering bees will use food/drink writer and chef with a background in business writing and the food stores they have saved up to more than eight years' experience as a generate heat. journalist and editor covering the food/ opposite: Honey Chocolate restaurant industries. Visit her website at Chia Pudding with Oh Nectar flow varies by region, coming www.maggiehennessy.com. Honey! Pecans on strong with the springtime blooms above: Raw honeycomb and pecans.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 39 by degrees cultured butter by degrees

Cultured Butter Recipe by Ashley Capps, lead pastry chef, Buxton Hall BBQ, Asheville, North Carolina Cultured butter is the preferred butter that is difficult for some people to in Europe for its high fat content, digest, and also includes probiotics. low moisture and fresh flavor. The majority of butter served in the U.S. Try this recipe and consider adding is sweet cream, a process by which cultured butter to your menu’s cream is immediately churned into offerings. For the best taste, source butter. In comparison, cultured butter high-quality cream. Cultured butter is inoculated with bacteria or live also takes well to herbs, seasonings, cultures from buttermilk or yogurt, nuts and other flavors.  then fermented under refrigeration for a period of time before churning. Step 1 The result of the fermentation process Gather mise en place and measure ingredients. Combine heavy cream and is a slightly tangy butter. The high fat buttermilk in clean stainless steel bowl. (minimum of 82%) and low moisture Stir to evenly distribute and pour into content allow for a higher smoking clean glass jar or third-pan (depending on your batch size). Cover with plastic and point when and a tender store at 65℉ to 70℉ for 5 to 6 days. Butter is an important ingredient crumb in crusts, cookies and other to both pastry and savory chefs. At baked items. Buxton Hall BBQ, an all-wood, whole hog Eastern North Carolina-style The process takes a number of days BBQ restaurant in Asheville, North and requires daily monitoring, Carolina, lead pastry chef Ashley attention to detail and patience before Capps takes her butter very seriously. going through rounds of washing and straining, but the work is well worth Overseeing Buxton Hall’s in-house it and will make a difference in flavor bakery, Capps leads a team of bakers and texture that your customers and to create hog-fat crusts, nurture clients will notice. house-cultured buttermilk, and create classic, southern pies, desserts and Cultured butter also has a healthful breads. Essential to her eclectic sweet component: the fermentation process and savory offerings is cultured butter. breaks down casein, a milk protein

40 Sizzle FALL 17 Step 2 Step 5 Step 8 Monitor the mixture daily. The Set a chinois or bowl strainer over a Finished butter can be wrapped in consistency should become thick and container. Pour whey and butter mixture parchment, stored in plastic containers, silky in texture, similar to sour cream. If through the strainer. Save whey for another or wrapped in plastic. The shelf life is two it’s loose, let sit another day or two and use. Leave butter clumps in the strainer, weeks under refrigeration if wrapped or check daily. After thickening, place the place over sink and run cold water over containerized very well, or frozen for up to crème fraîche in refrigerator for at least 4 butter to rinse. one month. hours to obtain 40℉. Chilling assists the butter-making process.

Step 6 Place cultured butter in a clean stainless steel bowl with ice cubes and water. Ingredients Squeeze and knead butter to remove 2 quarts heavy cream residual whey liquid from butter mass. The 8 T. cultured buttermilk Step 3 tint of the water in the bowl will become Pour chilled cultured cream into mixer bowl. cloudy with whey. When this happens, Equipment Pro tip: wrap head of mixer and lip of bowl discard cloudy iced water, refresh with clean 2 stainless steel bowls to prevent whey from sloshing out of mixer. iced water and repeat until water is clear. Glass jar or third-pan Whisk mixture on medium-low speed. Mixer with whisk attachment Cheesecloth Chinois or bowl strainer Plastic wrap Ice Water Parchment paper

Helpful Hint Step 7 ƒƒ Use good quality buttermilk and To create a hard, sliceable cultured butter, heavy cream for best results. strain once more through cheesecloth. Variations Step 4 Position a chinois or bowl strainer over a ƒƒ Add sea salt, or any spices or While mixing, the cultured cream will stiffen, container to sit upright. Drape cheesecloth herbs, after butter is fully washed similar to whipping heavy cream. As the cream over strainer, with six inches hanging over in step 5. Roll butter into a log and becomes fluffy, increase the speed. Keep a the sides. Place the washed cultured butter coat with herbs, sea salt, nuts, etc. close eye as the cultured cream whips; the in cheesecloth-lined strainer. Gather the whisk will eventually force the butter to clump ends of cheesecloth and twist to tighten to together and the whey to separate from the fat. remove any liquids and create a beautiful Remove from mixer and discard plastic. shape for the cultured butter. Continue twisting and tightening as needed until very little liquid remains.

Photography by Lauren Van Epps

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 41 Featured Ingredient dolphinfish

Dolphinfish

known as mahi mahi or dorado, dolphinfish is a saltwater roundfish with bluish-green scales that fade to Also light yellow on the underside. When exposed to air, the scales lose their bright color and appear silvery. Dolphinfish are typically around three-feet long and weigh between eight and 25 pounds, but can grow to be up to six- feet long and weigh up to 50 pounds. The flesh is pinkish-white when raw and turns white, firm and flakey when cooked. The lighter sections have a delicate, almost sweet flavor; the darker sections have a stronger fish flavor. Dolphinfish can be grilled, broiled, baked or poached.

Dolphinfish are found in tropical and subtropical waters of the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian oceans. Dolphinfish sold in the U.S. comes primarily from Ecuador, Taiwan and Costa Rica. Their diet is small fish and crustaceans. Dolphinfish are found in an abundance, as they grow quickly and spawn frequently. Ideally, dolphinfish should be trolled or pole-caught for the least amount of environmental damage.

Dolphinfish have significant health benefits. They are high in omega-3 fatty acids, a “good” fat that helps support a healthy brain and heart. Dolphinfish are an excellent source of selenium, which helps reduce inflammation in the body, and protein, which helps grow and maintain muscle tissue. They contain B vitamins, which are important in converting food into energy and help form red blood cells. Dolphinfish have reasonable levels of mercury, therefore eat in moderation. Market Forms Culinary Uses Whole fish is taken from the water and • Carefully pull out pin sold as-is. It has the shortest shelf life bones in the same direction of any market form because all internal the bones are facing to organs, or viscera, are still present. avoid ripping the flesh. • For a milder flavor, trim away Drawn fish is a whole fish that has had internal organs, or viscera, removed. darker portions of flesh. • Pair dolphinfish with a is a whole fish that has Dressed fish tropical salsa of cantaloupe had internal organs, or viscera, gills and and papaya for a sweet fins removed. Apan-dressed fish has boost of nutrition. also had the head removed. • For a healthier breaded Fish is a cross section of a version, use crushed dressed fish and is ready to cook when macadamia nuts and purchased. Typically, the only bone panko crumbs. present is a small section of the backbone. • Add flavor with a teriyaki Fish fillet is the lengthwise piece of marinade or sprinkle with flesh that is cut away from the backbone. seasonings such as cumin, Roundfish have two fillets, one on each oregano and paprika. side. Fillets can be purchased with or Best Fishes without bones and with or without skin. The Monterey Bay Aquarium classifies Earn A butterflied fillet is two single fillets dolphinfish, when caught in the U.S. continuing from a dressed fish that are held together Atlantic, as a Best Choice, the top of its education by the uncut back or belly of the fish. three environmental impact categories. hours The Aquarium advises to avoid Selecting and Storing toward ACF certification by taking imported dolphinfish harvested by long • Fish should smell fresh and mild, not featured ingredient online quizzes. line but rates troll and pole-and-line fishy or sour. Look for whole fish with caught as a Good Alternative. clear eyes, vibrant red gills and firm, shiny skin. Fillets should be firm to Make it Yourself the touch. Avoid fish that looks slimy. • Mahi mahi wrapped in banana leaves • Bury fresh fish in ice; fillets should be with vanilla maple shrimp and a spicy laid on top of ice. mango sauce • Fresh fish is temperature-sensitive; • Seafood Cioppino refrigerate as soon as possible. To • Seafood en Papillote above: Florida mahi maintain freshness, tightly wrap and mahi with kale and mushroom store in a pan filled with ice. risotto and sweet • Prepare fresh fish within a few days or corn purée. Image courtesy of Joshua freeze to extend shelf life. Smith, executive chef, Catch 27, St. Augustine, Florida.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 43 beverage class mead beverage class

FiveNectar things to knowof aboutthe mead Gods By Rob Benes

1. Mead is an alcoholic beverage. Mead is a wine or a malt beverage derived from (1) honey and water, or (2) a mixture of honey and water with hops, fruit, spices, grain or other agricultural products or flavors allowed in the production in wine. Honey must represent the largest percentage of the starting fermentable sugars by weight of the finished product.*

Mead can be made like beer, with kettles and pasteurization, and it can also be made using wine-making techniques. 2. Mead dates back thousands of years. Mead predates both beer and traditional grape wine by thousands of years. In Northern China, pottery vessels containing chemical signatures of a mixture of honey, rice and other fruits, along with organic compounds of fermentation, date to 7000-6500 BC. In Europe, residual samples found in ceramics date to 2800-1800 BC. 3. Mead is a diverse beverage. A misconception about mead is that it is big, thick, heavy and sweet. Mead is a wide-ranging beverage that can be sweet, semi-sweet or dry (not sweet); sparkling or still; low alcohol by volume (ABV) or high; and flavored or non-flavored.

Redstone Meadery in Boulder, Colorado, has three lines of mead that are made in different styles and with different honeys. Some are infused with fruits, juices and spices.

44 Sizzle FALL 17 Klaus Klaus Klaus

Amanda Amanda Amanda

of of of

Courtesy Courtesy Courtesy

KK Nectars are 8% ABV, carbonated and Mountain Honey Wine, which is made Mead Cocktail: Apple more similar to craft beer and cider. with orange blossom and wildflower Nectar Campfire honeys in a traditional mead style, pairs Recipe courtesy of Brady Marcotte, KKMountain Honey Wines are 12% Redstone Meadery ABV and non-carbonated with a full well with such spicy foods as Indian Ingredients curry or Thai recipes, blackened foods 1 oz. Highwest Campfire (blend of body. This style is similar to wine. Scotch, bourbon and rye whiskeys) and salmon. Its Juniper Mountain KKRedstone Reserves are 13% ABV ⅓ oz. caramelized sugar syrup Honey Wine, made with orange ¼ oz. Amaro Simona and similar to a port. It is a dense blossom and dessert blossom honeys 2 dashes cinnamon tincture 1 bottle Redstone Apple Nectar mead and heavy mead aged between six in a “metheglin” mead style, has a spicy and 10 years. Method and dry, woody profile that pairs well Place one large ice cube into a rocks “Mead sells best when it’s placed with with sushi, cooked fish and cured meats. glass. Add the first four ingredients and stir to combine. Top with mead craft beers and ciders,” says David and serve immediately. Myers, owner/chairman of the mead, 5. Mead is growing market share. Redstone Meadery. Click to download the 4. Mead is a versatile In the U.S., the number of common mead variants commercial meaderies has increased vocabulary sheet. beverage. from approximately 30 in 2003 to “Mead is a versatile beverage that approximately 300 in 2016, with nearly opposite: Traditional Mountain Honey Wine from Redstone has the ability to complement many 50 additional wineries and breweries Meadery. above from left: beers based on how its flavored,” says each making at least one mead in their 1. Redstone Meadery filled a Rueben Verplank, owner, Rueben’s product lineup*.  previously used brown spirits barrel to age its Traditional Burger Bistro in Boulder. “It’s also an *Information provided by American Mead Mountain Honey Wine. alternative beverage choice for people 2. Redstone Meadery uses Makers Association. whole vanilla beans and who don’t want wine, beer or spirits, as cinnamon sticks to make aged well as being gluten-free.” Rob Benes is a Chicago-based Winter Solstice Vanilla Beans hospitality industry writer. Contact him at & Cinnamon Sticks Mountain Often considered to be a dessert [email protected]. Honey Wine mead. 3. Redstone Meadery used oak barrels wine, mead pairs well with entrees, previously filled with tequila to age too. Redstone Meadery’s Traditional its apricot-infused Sunshine Nectar. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 45 the interview lorena garcia the interview Pissari Group

Garcia

Michael

of

Lorena

of

Courtesy

Photo Courtesy Lorena Garcia By Stacy Gammill

@LorenaGarciaOnline Venezuelan-born Lorena Garcia is a restaurateur, TV personality, TV producer, philanthropist and author. Chef Garcia’s love for food stems from her family @LorenaGarcia gatherings as a child in Caracas, Venezuela. A graduate of Johnson & Wales @ChefLorena University, Miami, Chef Garcia has worked in kitchens in Paris, Italy, Japan, Korea, Thailand and China. Chef Garcia’s newest restaurant, Chica, recently opened at the Venetian in Las Vegas, where she is the first female chef to be included on the Wall of Culinary Titans.

46 Sizzle FALL 17 Pissari

Evans Evans

Linda Michael Linda

of of of

Courtesy Courtesy Courtesy

Photo Photo Photo

You earned a law degree then How did your apprenticeship at switched to culinary arts. Why? the Ritz-Carlton in Paris help lg: I was always happy in the kitchen as shape your career and what did a child; I enjoyed cooking and was very you learn? interested in learning new recipes and lg: It is hard to quantify how much I techniques. At a young age, I took over learned there. It was the most intense cooking the family breakfast because and overwhelming experience, both mine tasted better. It’s funny, it never physically and mentally exhausting. occurred to me to make a career as That is where I perfected my skills and a chef until I finished law school and learned what it takes to run a large, started working. On the very first day successful kitchen. I was part of a giant working at the firm, I knew it wasn’t brigade, where you depended on each for me. I left and immediately enrolled other to do your part. If one person in cooking school. I haven’t had an could not keep up, the entire kitchen unhappy day at work since. would slow down. As the only woman, keeping up was even more important How has your law degree for me. influenced your career as a chef? lg: My law degree is a bit of a secret Your family inspired your love weapon. My business partners and of cooking. What advice do you people who worked for me have always have for chefs who want to honor wondered how I was so good on their family’s heritage but also be contract and in business—you should relevant to today’s modern diner? see the looks on their faces when I lg: Study, practice and learn the classics tell them I went to law school before I before you try to make things your own. I became a chef! would say only in the last five years have above left and right: I fully developed my personal culinary Interior of Chica. style, incorporating my Latin heritage, Center: Grilled flavors and inspiration into everything I lobster from do. But to do it well, I had to know the Garcia's New Taco Classics cookbook.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 47 the interview lorena garcia

Guayanés Cheese Cachapas Note: Queso panela cheese can substitute for Guayanés cheese

Ingredients 6 sweet corn cakes (recipe follows) Guasacaca sauce (recipe follows) 1½ cups Guayanés cheese, cut in chunks

Sweet Corn Cakes 1 cup fresh sweet corn kernels ½ cup queso blanco

½ cup precooked corn flour (sweet) Pissari Pissari

1 T. butter, unsalted 2 T. milk Michael Michael

1 t. kosher salt of of

1 T. sugar 2 T. all-purpose flour Courtesy Courtesy 1 egg Photo Photo Method 1. In a food processor, add all ingredients and process until a loose dough forms, classics and I trained for years in French was harder to rise up through the ranks. about 30 seconds. Let dough rest for a and Italian cuisine. Everything I do now Fortunately, it’s all changing now. More few minutes. 2. Preheat a greased flattop grill or skillet is built on this solid foundation. and more women are training as chefs over medium heat. Ladle 2 tablespoons and building their own restaurants, of the corn mixture onto the hot skillet What was the inspiration behind cooking on their terms and building and cook the corn cakes for 3 minutes Chica? How did you determine the on each side. Set aside. teams of women. I predict that in 10 theme and the cuisine? years, every chef on that wall will be a Guasacaca sauce lg: Chica is the restaurant I’ve always woman. It’s been slow progress, but at 3 Hass avocados, diced small dreamed to create. With the blessing 1 small red onion, diced small least there has been progress, and I am of my partners, I have been able to 3 green onions, diced small so proud to be part of the revolution! 2 garlic cloves, minced celebrate the flavors and cooking 1 red bell pepper, diced small techniques of Latin and South America. As an author, philanthropist, chef 1 green bell pepper, diced small Rooted in Venezuela (of course the star and business owner, how do you 1 leek, white part only, diced small of the menu are my arepas!), but really balance work and personal life? 3 limes, juiced showcasing the incredible cooking that lg: I firmly believe the more we invest 2 T. white vinegar 1 cup olive oil or vegetable oil is done south of the border. We have into the younger generation the more 1 bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped a giant ceviche bar in the center of the chance we have to change the world, 1 T. kosher salt restaurant that faces our “wall of fire,” whether by stopping the obesity crisis or 1 t. sugar a grilling station where we cook in a ending hunger in the world. I focus on 1 t. black pepper number of different ways over live fire, helping with food issues, because that’s Method including a stunning Brazilian rodízio. what I know best. Toss all ingredients together in a nonreactive bowl and set aside for 10 As the first female chef featured You are very passionate about minutes before serving. If not using right on the Wall of Culinary Titans at healthy cooking, and you have away, refrigerate until ready to use. the Venetian, why do you think it a nonprofit dedicated to helping Assembly has taken so long for female chefs children and families eat healthier. Top the corn cakes with the cheese chunks to break into the boys’ club? Why is this important to you? and drizzle each cake with Guasacaca sauce. lg: I think it simply comes down to lg: Children are our future. If we don’t numbers. For years there were so many raise healthy children, then the world fewer women working as chefs that it is going to face even more serious

48 Sizzle FALL 17 problems. Kids are living shorter lives you need financially to be than their parents for the first time ever successful. If you’re not and poor eating and lack of access to great on the numbers, good food is a key contributor. I am hire someone or look for doing everything I can to change that. a partner who is. You can create the best food There is a lot of discussion about in the world but if it’s too mental health in the hospitality expensive, or labor costs industry, from anxiety and are too high in your area, addiction to suicide. How can or the rent is too high for chefs, restaurant owners and the the number of covers you food industry in general address these challenges? can serve, then you’re going to fail before you lg: I think the most important thing is to even start. acknowledge that it is a problem. For too long, the culture in kitchens was Latin American cuisine about survival of the fittest, who could is very hot right now. literally stand the heat. It’s clear now What are some of your

that lifestyle is dangerous. In all my Pissari favorite Latin flavors? restaurants, we are creating a culture of lg: Of course, Venezuelan Michael support. If the team is having challenges cuisine is closest to of in their positions, they know that they my heart, but so many can talk to their managers about it and fantastic flavors are used Courtesy work on solutions. all over Latin America. I

am known for my picos. Photo What do you see as the future of I love the variety of fresh hospitality and what role do chefs salsas that are served play in that future? all over Latin America. Using different lg: More and more, chefs are looking chilies, fruits and herbs can change the to develop creative businesses that flavors wildly and the addition of them to can work in all aspects of hospitality, a simple piece of grilled fish or meat can from restaurants to hotels to television. change an entire dish. Creating great food and experiences for people is at the heart of hospitality and Who are the chefs you admire? chefs are the driving force. lg: Art Smith is one my closest friends and he is a constant inspiration to me. What are the most essential first steps to take for chefs who want We met on the set of Masters to open their own restaurants or and have been friends ever since. I begin their own business? love the work he does both in and out of  lg: Know your market and your the kitchen. numbers. When you are looking to start a successful business, cooking often becomes the easiest part. opposite from left: There are so many aspects to the 1.Guayanés Cheese business that are really challenging, Cachapas. 2. Garcia prepares Chiles en like fundraising, finding the right space Nogada Taco Style. and hiring good people. It’s important above: Garcia garnishes to understand before you start what a dish.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 49 last bite jeremy fox last bite

Jeremy Fox On Vegtables Chef Jeremy Fox, executive chef, Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen, both in , presents over 85 of his signature vegetarian recipes in On Vegetables (Phaidon, April 2017), organized by the main vegetable, alongside more than 75 additional larder recipes for sauces, stocks, condiments and other pantry staples that form the foundation for his cooking. Fox also gets personal in his introduction and shares his struggles with anxiety and ADHD, and how he learned to overcome and treat his inner demons. But make no mistake, this is not a cookbook on the virtues of vegetarianism. For any chef or culinary student looking to expand their knowledge on seed-to- stalk cooking, Chef Fox wants this book “to inspire you to change the way you think about vegetables, and to have the confidence to expand your horizons.” With that in mind, try this creating this Carrot Juice Cavatelli, which uses every part of the carrot, from the tops to the carrot pulp. Tag #ACFChefs on social media and we’ll share what you’re cooking.  Poon Carrot Juice Cavatelli Rick

by

Start cooking the day before you intend to serve this. The carrot pulp and cavatelli dough will need overnight to dehydrate and rest, respectively. The dish serves four (4). Photography Carrot Juice Cavatelli Follow Jeremy Fox Ingredients on social media 530 grams “00” flour, plus more for dusting 1 t. kosher salt, plus more for the cooking water @ChefJeremyFox 240 ml fresh carrot juice (from orange carrots), pulp reserved @ChefJeremyFox Method 1. In a food processor, blend together the flour and salt. With the machine running, slowly add the carrot juice (you may not need all of it), until the dough comes together. Be careful not to overwork the dough in the food processor: The dough may well look crumbly, but if you press it together with your fingers it should very easily combine into dough. You are looking for a texture similar to Play-Doh: elastic, pliable, and not sticking to your fingers when you touch it. If the dough is too dry, add more juice; too wet, add more flour. 2. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead it with the heels of your hands for about 1 minute, until you have a smooth dough.

50 Sizzle FALL 17 3. Wrap the dough tightly with plastic wrap 9. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season and let it rest overnight in the refrigerator. your water with salt so it tastes like the 4. Place the carrot pulp on a dehydrator tray sea. I think it’s important to taste the pasta and dehydrate at 135ºF (57ºC) overnight. water to make sure it is seasoned properly. Once seasoned and , add the 5. About 1 hour before you plan to make cavatelli and cook until they float to the the cavatelli, let the dough come to room surface, about 3 minutes. If you’re not sure temperature–this will make it much easier to whether they are done, the best test is just work with. Divide the dough into 6 pieces. to eat one. 6. Lightly flour a work surface. Working with one piece at a time– and keeping the rest Carrot Purée of the dough covered–roll the dough into Ingredients a long, thin rope, about 1/8 inch (3 mm) Yield: 1 cup (240 mL) in diameter. Cut the rope crosswise into 910 grams carrots ¼-inch (6 mm) pieces. 6 T grapeseed oil 7. Using a cavatelli board, or the tines of 1 T kosher salt, plus more as needed a fork, gently but confidently roll the dough pieces against it. The cavatelli may Method not come out perfect right away, but soon 1. Peel the carrots and then cut the carrots the motion will find its way into your into rough 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes. These muscle memory. do not have to be perfect, as they will all 8. Once the cavatelli are shaped, lay them in eventually be puréed. a single layer (not touching) on a baking 2. In a bowl, toss the carrots with 2 sheet lined with a tea towel. Repeat this tablespoons of the grapeseed oil and the process until all of the dough has been salt and set aside for about 10 minutes. turned into cavatelli. These are best 3. Transfer the carrots to a food processor cooked when fresh, so if you are going to and blend until broken up. be cooking them the same day, you can just leave them out. Otherwise, cover and 4. Transfer the mixture to a saucepot or large refrigerate for up to 2 days. sauté plan. Set the pan over medium-low heat, cover, and cook, undisturbed for 40

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 51 Method Fox Spice 1. In a bowl, combine the Ingredients carrot tops, olive oil, garlic, Yield: 1/3 cup (80 mL) pickle brine (withhold this ingredient if not using 2 ½ T black peppercorns the salsa right away), and 2 T ground mace lemon zest and whisk 1 T plus 1 t. ground cinnamon thoroughly until combined. 1 T coriander seeds 1 t. whole cloves 2. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up Method to 3 days. If storing to use 1. In a wide sauté pan, combine the later, don’t add the brine peppercorns, mace, cinnamon, coriander (or lemon juice) until right seeds, and cloves and over medium before serving. The sauce heat, stirring, until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. may separate a bit, so just give it a quick whisk again 2. Transfer the spices to a spice grinder and before using. process until very finely ground. Transfer the spice blend to an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to Poon Carrot Crumble

2 months. Rick Ingredients by Yield: 3/4 cup (100 g) 3. When the blend loses its fragrance, make a new batch. 480 grams carrot pulp (from 3 pounds/1.3 kg Photography To Serve orange carrots that have 1. While the pasta water heats up, gently been juiced) to 45 minutes. You’ll know it’s ready when warm the carrot purée in a small pan over 2 t. granulated sugar you can smear it with a spoon. (If you take low heat and keep covered (and warm) 1 ½ t. Fox Spice (see below) it off the heat too early, you will find the until serving. texture of the purée to be somewhat grainy 1 t. kosher salt 2. Using a sieve, scoop the cavatelli out of after you purée it.) 2 T extra-virgin olive oil the pasta water and into a wide bowl. 5. Transfer the mixture to a blender and Method Immediately dress them with the carrot blend on low speed, then gradually 1. Spread the pulp evenly on a dehydrator top salsa verde and toss to combine. increase to high speed while slowly tray and dehydrate at 125º to 135ºF (52º 3. Ladle in some of the starchy, seasoned frizzling in the remaining 4 tablespoons to 57ºC) for at least 8 hours, or until pasta water, a little at a time, to open up grapeseed oil. Blend the purée to the completely dry. You should get about ¾ the flavors and create a very light sauce consistency of mayonnaise. Season cup (53 g) of dehydrated pulp. that will coat the cavatelli. Don’t add too to taste with salt; it should have a much water or it will make for a thin, pure carrot flavor. Store in an airtight 2. Transfer the pulp to a mortar and pestle diluted sauce. container refrigerated for up to 3 days. and grind until you have the rustic texture of a fine breadcrumb. (A food processor 4. Place dollops of the carrot purée on 4 Salsa Verde will turn your breadcrumbs into more of a warmed plates. Spoon the cavatelli on uniform powder.) top and sprinkle the carrot crumble over Ingredients the pasta and the plate. I like being able Yield: 3/4 cup (180 mL) 3. Transfer to a bowl and add the sugar, spice, and salt and stir together. to drag the cavatelli through more of the 25 grams chopped carrot tops crumble as I’m eating it. 120 ml extra-virgin olive oil 4. Store in an airtight container indefinitely 5. Shave ribbons of Gouda over the top and 2 garlic cloves, germ removed, finely chopped at room temperature. Stir in the olive oil serve immediately. 2 T pickled vegetable brine or lemon juice until combined. Finely grated zest of 2 lemons

52 Sizzle FALL 17 the quiz fall 2017 Get the answers Click here to find out the correct the quiz answers.

Did you read all the articles in this issue? Take the Sizzle Quiz to test your knowledge. 26 34 40

1. Bees are vegetarians. 6. What is Korean Kalbi? 11. What is mead? a. True a. A traditional Korean dish made with short ribs a. A non-alcoholic drink b. False b. A Korean pasta dish b. A wine or malt beverage derived c. A Korean dessert primarily from honey 2. What is the purpose of male drone honeybees? d. Korean rice c. A craft beer a. Collect pollen d. A craft cider b. Maintain the colony 7. What is Ssamjang? c. Mate with the queen a. Korean chili flakes 12. Beer and wine predate mead. d. None of the above b. Korean vegetables a. True c. Fermented cabbage b. False 3. How many queens are in a bee colony? d. Gochujang blended with miso paste, a. One queen sesame oil, vinegar and sesame seeds 13. What country is Chef Lorena Garcia from? b. Two queens a. Spain c. Three queens 8. What is chapssal rice? b. Mexico d. A few hundred queens a. A glutinous rice that becomes soft and c. Cuba sticky when cooked d. Venezuela 4. What is cultured butter? b. Fried rice a. Butter that is salted c. Fragrant rice 14. What is another term for “trash fish”? b. Butter that is made from goat’s milk d. Black rice a. Bycatch c. Butter that is sweetened b. Prime grade fish d. Butter that is inoculated with bacteria or 9. Dolphinfish is also known as: c. Underutilized fish live cultures a. Triggerfish d. A & C b. Dorado 5. About how many days does it take to create c. Mahi mahi 15. What is an apprenticeship? cultured butter? d. B & C a. A combination of on-the-job training and a. One to two days related classroom instruction b. Three to four days 10. Where are dolphinfish primarily found? b. A stage c. Five to six days a. In tropical and subtropical waters of the c. An unpaid internship d. Two to three weeks Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Ocean d. An online class b. Alaskan waters c. Off the Northeast coast of the U.S. d. In lakes and streams

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 53 February 25-27, 2018 The Westin Charlotte Charlotte, North Carolina early registration deadline noV . 1, 2017

March 18-20, 2018 Newport Beach Marriott Hotel & Spa Newport Beach, California early registration deadline noV . 15, 2017

July 15-19, 2018 new orleans Hyatt Regency New Orleans

early registration deadline m ay 1, 2018

Visit acfchefs.org for more information or to register to attend.