Heritage NEWSLETTER

Dedicated to Preserving Our Built Heritage Summer 2003 Volume 30, No. 2

President’s Report J. Bowes & Son, Architects,Ottawa: Annual Report of David B. Flemming, A Forgotten Legacy President of Heritage Ottawa by Elizabeth Krug to the 2003 Annual General Meeting, held at the Rockcliffe hile working with the In 1866 both John Bowes and J.H. Park Recreation Centre on Restoration Committee of Pattison, Measurers of Public Buildings, W St. Brigid’s Roman Catholic Ottawa, received retroactive raises in Thursday, May 29, 2003 Church, Lowertown Ottawa, I have had salary6. In August 1868, John Bowes ood evening and welcome to the privilege of researching the work of and Will. Hutchison7 were working the Annual General Meeting of the architect of St. Brigid’s, James R. together on plans and measurements for G Heritage Ottawa - the 30th Bowes (1852-1892). In the process, the the , dealing with since the establishment of the society in legacy of this Ottawa native, as well as contractor H. McGreevy8. (fig.1.) 1974. My name is David Flemming and that of his Irish-born architect father, I have been your President since last John Bowes (1820-1894), has emerged October 1 when I was selected by the from archival sources as a remarkable Board to complete Carolyn Quinn’s term story. Father and son contributed signifi- of office as President on the occasion of cantly to building the National Capital. her resignation from the position after starting with the Parliament buildings serving the society diligently for over and public institutions (the father) and five years. closing with civic structures (the son). The past year has been marked by These buildings were commercial and internal change within the society with religious emblems of the flourishing the tabling of a re-organisational plan; “Capital of the Dominion”. The Bowes, by significant changes at the municipal father and son, appear to have been part Fig. 1. Public Works staff, c.1866. Parliament level with the development of a new of a group of dedicated and selfless Buildings Construction site. L-R: J. Lebreton Official Plan and an Arts and Heritage architects and builders, serving a new (Lebrett?) Ross (?), Engineer; René Steckel; Chas. Plan; and by a number of important Canadian culture. Baillargé; William Hutchison; G.B. Pelham; advocacy cases. F.P. Rubidge, Assistant Chief Engineer; Bowes & Ottawa in the 1860s. John Bowes; J.H. Pattison (Patterson?); After assuming the position of Vice In 1859-1860, John Bowes, Architect, J. Larose; Arnoldi; T. Fuller; Kelly (?). National President at last year’s Annual General late Superintendent, Kingston Custom Archives of copy neg.: PA-124244, Acc. 1965- Meeting, I drew up a re-organisation House, Canada West, was in correspon- 049. N.B. Also in Archives, copy neg.: plan which sought to address the lack of dence with the Department of Works in CA-0161, Mrs. Montague Anderson Collection. participation by the general membership Names in caption are taken from both sources. Additional City regarding gas fixtures and / information from City Archives’ caption: Architects, in the society’s day to day activities or furnace repairs for the Kingston Superintendent, Draftsmen of 1st Parliament Bldgs. through the strengthening of our various Custom House1. In 1861 he was meet- Photo taken at Temporary Office in Old Barracks…. committees, many of which have been ing with F.P. Rubidge, A.E.P. W. and inactive for many years. In August, the Mr. Keefer, the Deputy Commissioner2. The Library of Parliament and the Board approved the implementation of In July 18613, and Sept 18664, John had been designed by the plan however this was postponed in Bowes was employed as Measurer, Thomas Fuller and Chilion Jones in October when I accepted the duties of Parliament buildings, Ottawa, and dealing 1859. Although the Library and the with contractor Thomas. McGreevy5. Continued on page 2 Continued on pages 3-5

1 President Continued… suggested by Heritage Ottawa and that buildings on Gilmour and McLeod both documents provide a sound basis Streets. In these instances, the develop- President. The implementation of this for the preservation of our community’s er continues to submit proposals that are plan and the preparation of a Strategic heritage. completely out of scale for the existing Plan will be the main challenges of the One thing that is not contained in zoning. We are also closely monitoring new Board of Directors which you will the plans is the political will to act upon the situation with Grant House (Friday’s appoint this evening. them in the preservation of our built Roast Beef House) on and An important part of the Strategic heritage. The many advocacy issues the Old Registry Office on Nicholas Plan will be to substantially increase the which we have dealt with over the past Street. Both are designated heritage number of members in Heritage Ottawa. year reflect a City Council that is not buildings and are located on sites which Our current membership is about 150, a prepared to “stand up for heritage” are ripe for development. We continue far cry from the 450+ members of 25 despite what they may approve in to follow with great interest the years ago. It is not only important for us official documents. There are few National Capital Commissions on- to increase our membership but also to champions of heritage on the current again/off-again plans , the attract new members from the former proposal know as “Metcalfe Lite.” municipalities which now form part of Heritage Ottawa members are kept up to the amalgamated City of Ottawa. It is not only important date on these issues through articles in The creation of the new City of our Newsletter. Ottawa in 2001 led to the development for us to increase our As I noted previously, most of our municipal politicians seem to lack the of a number of new plans, two of which membership but also to - the Official Plan and the Arts and political will to make the necessary Heritage Plan - have particular relevance attract new members from decisions to protect our built heritage. to our City’s built heritage resources. With this year’s municipal election, we The response to the first draft of the former municipalities do have the opportunity to challenge the Official Plan was drawn up by candidates on their position on heritage Barbara McMullen, our current which now form part preservation. One of the first jobs of Secretary, and by Board member your new Board will be to devise Ron Stein. Ron unfortunately resigned of the amalgamated strategies to challenge candidates from the Board late last year and was for municipal office on their position unable to continue to work on the City of Ottawa. on heritage preservation. For this, Plan. Your Board spent many hours we will need the help of the general responding to the three subsequent membership. drafts of the Official Plan and the three Council. The loss of the two buildings Besides speaking at Planning and drafts of the Arts and Heritage Plan. I in the Nicholas-Waller-Laurier triangle Development Committee meetings and presented our comments in both written last November is a good example of this writing letters to the newspapers and to form and in-person before the Planning inaction. The City refused to take any the Mayor and Council, your President and Development Committee on four decisive action such as placing a stop and other members of the Board have occasions. I am pleased to inform you work order on the new building being spoken on radio and television on many that the final versions of both docu- erected by Groupe Lépine and six heritage issues. We have had informa- ments contain some recommendations months later we still do not know what tion booths at Heritage Day, Museum’s action the City are taking against the Day and Heritage Fair events and last developer. Likewise, the Caplan build- weekend we adopted the Old Registry ing, one of the last fine examples of Building on as part of Heritage Ottawa Ottawa’s 19th century retail built heritage in an effort to was lost not because of the neglect of lobby for its retention. Your Past- NEWSLETTER the owner or even by the edict of the President and I also served on the Fire Marshall. It was lost because our Organising Committee of Doors Open Heritage Ottawa is a non-profit Councillors did not have the political Ottawa and other Board members organization dedicated to advocating will to save it. Heritage Ottawa spoke continue to serve on the City’s Heritage the preservation, restoration, and loudly on these two issues but the Advisory Committee and the Ottawa adaptive re-use of the National response of our elected representatives, LACAC. Heritage Ottawa had four Capital’s built and natural heritage. with a few exceptions, was non-existent. representatives in the various Editor: James D. Georgiles Besides these two issues, Heritage Downtown Urban Design Strategy Graphic Designer: Jan Soetermans Ottawa has been supporting the workshops and we again presented Printing: Tina & Company community in opposing the Ashcroft Homes proposals for large Continued on page 12

2 J. Bowes & Son, Architects,Ottawa: A Forgotten Legacy Continued...

Ottawa’s Progress. On December 6, 1875, Canada, its dimensions are 122 x 52 feet the news story Ottawa’s Progress cites with a ceiling 13 feet high... next year... the Citizen’s annual custom of summa- an exhibition hall 100 by 40 feet, with Fig. 2. Plan of Half of Roof of Library showing rizing the year’s achievements, and recreation room beneath... the building st part of purlins, Parliament Buildings Ottawa, describes at least 30 new projects. Six of will be ready for occupation 1 of April Iron Roof of Library, No. 1. John Bowes, Apt. these are attributed to architects Messrs. next. The architects are Messrs. Bowles Archt. 1872. Inscribed: Plan referred to in contract Bowles (sic) and Son It should be noted and Son... (N.B. burned down 1903) no. 4025 signed at Ottawa this 21st day of November that the City directories of the period (fig.3.). AD 1872; signed: Peter Kilduff, Hector Langevin… etc. National Archives Acc. RG11M 79003/29-22. did list a Mr. William Bowles, clerk • Major’s Hill: Aldermen Heney and NMC 124952. with House of Commons, as well as a McDougal have just moved into a couple contractor Bowles. But for the occupation of cottages built for them during the past of architect, we find John Bowes, and summer fronting Major’s Hill... double of Parliament were not later, J.R. Bowes, listed. Although the tenement two storeys high, Gothic in completed until around 1876-78 (fig.2), name “Bowes” does not appear in the style... two storey verandah... constructed Fuller went to Albany N. Y. in 1867 to City directory of 1875, John Bowes and of white brick, with free stone design the N.Y. State Legislative his family are listed in the Canadian dressing... the design is similar to the Buildings, eventually forming a partner- Census records of 1871 and 1881. cottages which abound in the vicinity of ship with Augustus Laver, who, together Fairmount Park, Philedelphia (sic)... with Frederick Warburton Stent, had In 1875 the facing as this does on the site of our con- designed the Departmental Buildings reports: templated city park... Messrs. Bowles (ie. the East and West Blocks). The • A New Wing of the Ottawa College on and Son were the architects... It may be “Picturesque Eclecticism” of the Sandy Hill:... will be one of the largest of mentioned that as Mr. John Bowles is Canadian Parliament Buildings was in a its kind in ... substantial stone kept continually busy by the duties of his Victorian medievalising style, borrowing masonry 125 x 50 feet, five stories high office under Government, all the outside from French Second Empire architecture with attic. its cost when finished will be work devolves upon his son Mr. James (the Louvre, 1852-57), as well as $35,000... the interior will be fitted up Bowles and the design for the above English, Flemish and Italian Gothic in the latest and most improved plan.... cottages was his work. styles9. Revivalism and Eclecticism were the dormitory is said to be the finest in prevalent throughout Europe and North America; Toronto’s University College (architects Cumberland and Storm, 1856-1859) had already set a precedent in Canada.10 Canadian religious architec- ture was not immune to these tendencies. Great Britain, France, and the United States were leading influences. Bowes & Ottawa in the 1870s. Ottawa had become the capital of the United , East and West, in 1858. The Public Works Department moved to the new capital from Quebec City in 1866, when the Parliament buildings were officially opened. It had already been providing work for architects like John Bowes, and the demand for new buildings kept increasing. By the 1870s, as the population grew, a boom of new homes, churches, public buildings, and businesses kept architects and builders in Ottawa extremely active, despite inter- Fig. 3. Ottawa College, playground, c.1878. national economic depression. The Image from the Archives of the , Fonds 38, PHO-38A-1-20. Ottawa Citizen ran regular detailed articles on City Improvements and Continued on pages 4 and 5

3 or “diament” pattern, rounded arches 15, A Forgotten Legacy Continued... and towers that are often hexagonal or octagonal; all still in an eclectic The basement will be used for offices, medievalising style. A local example of assembly, billiard and lecture rooms. this “Dominion” style is the Almonte The theatre will be on the ground flat. Post Office ( T. Fuller, 1889-91). The two flats will be divided into spacious In the 1883 Sessional Papers of the rooms to be used for a variety of purposes. Department of Public Works, John The building, when completed will cost, Bowes is the Superintending architect between $25,000 and $30,000. The for construction of additions to the architects are Messrs. John Bowles Kingston Peuitentiaryl6. What other and Son... (N.B. roof destroyed by fire structures he worked on during this but rebuilt and still standing, 18-20 period remain to be discovered. Photo: Elizabeth Krug, 2003. His son, James R. Bowes is not listed Fig. 4. Convent of the Good Shepherd. Embassy York). (fig. 5.) of the People’s Republic of China, St. Patrick St. in the City Directories for 1882-83. (formerly Park St.). In 1887, when he would have been 35 years old, City Council approved the construction of a new Central Fire • Mr. Landreau’s block... three storeys on Station, on ground near the rear of the the corner of Murray and Sussex... white new City Hall ( Elgin St.) with plans by brick... cost when finished,... $5,500... James R Bowes, “who was then city Messrs. Bowles & Son were the architect”.17 architects... • New private residences, Enright’s Cottage, Nepean St., 25 x 35 ft, Neat cottage. Architect: Bowles and Sons • Convent of the Good Shepherd, Park Street, ... Gothic, built of limestone, four storeys high with attic... 52 x 125 ft.

Architect: Messrs. Bowles and Sons. Photo: Elizabeth Krug, 2003. (N.B. Park St. became St. Andrew St. and currently is new St. Patrick St. The Fig. 5. Former Institut Canadien Français, Convent is now home to the Embassy of 18 York St. the People’s Republic of China, 515 St. Patrick St.) (fig.4.). In 1877 and 1879, evidence of • Improvements in Notre Dame Basilica, John Bowes’ continued work with the Sussex St... Emplacement of galleries to DPW appears in the Public Works run whole length of church on each side, Annual Reports, naming John Bowes affording 120 extra pews. A new ceiling as Superintending Architect for St. is to be put in. Architect: Messrs. Bowles Vincent de Paul Penitentiary l2. and Son. (N.B. These were replaced by Bowes & Ottawa in the 1800s. architect Rev. Canon Georges Bouillon, In 1881, Thomas Fuller returned to sometime after 1878 when he became Canada to assume the position of Chief parish priest of Notre Dame, and took Architect for the Department of Public charge of the interior decor)11. Works, a position he held until 1896. Further, on June 26, 1876, During this period, he designed 140

the Citizen reports: federal buildings, of which 80 were post City of Ottawa Archives CA1586. • The Canadian Institute... The building, offices and custom houses for growing communities in the Dominon.13 Fig. 6. St. Bridget’s Church, exterior, c. 1898. when completed will be quite an From the publication: Carre, William H., ornament to York Street. It is to be Together with Thomas Seaton Scott Art Work in Ottawa, Canada. Published in twelve constructed in limestone, three storeys he is credited for creating the Canadian parts. 1898. 14 high, Mansard roofwith ornamental iron “Dominion style”, a style that is tower in the centre. The dimensions are characterised by a rough stone facade, St. Bridget’s Church. In March of 107 x 57. The style of architecture is a often asymmetrical, with a large centre 1888, a committee of parishioners from combination of Doric and Gothic. gable having a distinctive stone “bossage” Notre Dame Cathedral started meeting

4 Father J.T. McGovern. Discussion and Bibliography debate as to the need for a separate 1 RG II Y. 769, Quebec, 22 Dec. 1859, parish, the location of the church, as letter 30158; , RGII Y. 771, Kingston on, well as the design of the church, took 24 Oct 1860, letter 34283. place in a series of meetings. By May 3, 2 RG II Y. 772: letter 35837,28 Feby 1861; 1888, Mr. Bowes had been chosen as letter 36845,20 May 1861; architect, and he submitted a plan to the letter 37235: 15 June 1861. fifth general meeting. By the time of the 3 RG II Y. 772, letter 37578/37515. Blessing of the completed St. Bridget’s 19 July 1861, Quebec. T. Trudeau to Church, August 3, 1890, the architect’s John Bowes Esq. Measurer Parliament Bldgs, Ottawa. name is given as James R. Bowes.18 The contractor in charge of the construction 4 RG II Y. 772, letter 59944,28 Sept 1866 , was John J. Lyons. (fig. 6.). 5 RG II Y. 772 letter 37578 and letter 37846 Prior to the official opening of 6 RG II Y. 782 letters 57893-94 St. Bridget’s Church in 1890, the 7 RG. II Y. 785 letter 2842 Ottawa Ottawa Citizen continues recording July 21, 1868, lists Mr. Wm Hutchison as the city’s building activities. On Inspector of Works, Ottawa June 13, 1888, the Citizen reports that 8 RG II Y. 785 letter 3078,29 August 1868. the City Property Committee met to 9 Thomas, Christopher A Thomas Fuller discuss plans for a new Police Station. (1823-98) and Changing Attitudes to A motion was taken to have Mr. J.R. Medievalism in Nineteenth-Century

City of Ottawa Archives CA1594. Architecture, Society for the Study of Bowes prepare plans; however, another Architecture in Canada. Selected Papers from Fig. 7. Congregational Church, Ottawa, c. 1898. motion was carried to request Tenders the Annual Meeting 1978, pp 107 - 109 From the publication: Carre, William H., l9 for Plans . The same issue describes 10 Ibid Art Work in Ottawa, Canada. Published in “Four New Schoolhouses”: St. Joseph’s, twelve parts. 1898. 11 Barbezieux. Alexis. Histoire de la Province St. Patrick’s, Notre Dame, and New Ecclesiastlque d’Ottawa.v. 2, 1897. p 24 Edinburgh Separate Schools, all to be and also Noppen, Luc. In the National with the Archbishop of Ottawa, the built to the plans of J.R. Bowes, with Gallery of Canada, One of the most Most Rev. Joseph Thomas Duhamel, to contracts awarded to John J. Lyons. In beautiful chapels in the land. Ottawa, discuss building a separate church for addition, the June 13 1888 issue of the 1988, p. 84. the English-speaking parishioners of the Citizen carries the story “Congregational 12 Canada Department of Public Works Cathedral. Committee members included Church: Laying of the Corner-stone...”. Reports, 1875, pp. 74-75. and 1879, Appendix 3, p 13. Messrs. John J. Lyons, Bingham, The architect was Mr. James R. Bowes, McEvila, O'Reilly, McDonald, and Ottawa (fig. 7.). The speech of Sir James 13 Christopher Thomas, p. 109. Grant makes men- 14 Ibid, p. III . tion of “a proud 15 Ibid, p.110. thing to see Roman 16 National Archives of Canada. Cartographic Catholics present at and Architectural records, Peter Arend’s. the ceremony”20 notes. James R. Bowes was 17 Newton, Michael. Lowertown Ottawa. a Roman Catholic. volume 2.1854-1900. NCC, 1981, p.414. The church was 18 St.. Brigid’s Parish, 1889-1939. Golden situated at the Jubilee. Le Droit, 1939, pp.9-17. north-east comer of 19 Ottawa Citizen , Wednesday, June 13. Elgin and Albert, 20 Ibid quite close to the new City Hall, Elizabeth Krug worked for the Nat.Archives, Police Station in the Documentary Art and Photo. Div., for (fig. 8.), and Fire 15 years before taking early retirement in 2001. Hall. All these Her last three years with the Fed. Gov. were buildings were with Industry Canada’s Digital Collections demolished in the Prog. She lives in Lowertown and served as a twentieth century, volunteer researcher with St. Brigid’s Church possibly in the in the fall of 2002. City of Ottawa Archives CA2077 1950’s as part of the This article is to be continued in the next Fig. 8. Ottawa Police Station, Elgin St. c. 1938. Greber plan. issue of Heritage Ottawa News.

5 located on the north-west corner of Growing up in (Part 1) Bruyere and King Edward streets or across the street on King Edward that By J.W.Guy Fortier then was a two lane boulevard running north and south from Rideau to Sussex. ower Town, before and during Street. Mr Freiman hired many It was a great place to hang out. This the early years of the Second French or bilingual Canadians since part of King Edward was reconstructed L World War was quite different the majority of his clientele was French. for the 1939 Royal Visit. than it is today. It had three main He was fair and honest and treated his The gang for grown up teenagers, population groups, French , English workers well. Another Jew who cared who either worked or went to school, (mostly Irish,) and Jews. Each group for the poor was a Max Mosion who covered all Lower Town and they hung had its own schools, churches and owned owned The Dominion Bakery at around a restaurant located on the synagogues and they rarely mixed with 914 St. Patrick Street. He had two or corner of Bruyere and Dalhousie streets. each other except for sports such as three horse drawn wagons which softball, hockey or football. Competition delivered bread. Every night when the The Games We Played in those sports was keen. wagons were coming home, the poor Every season had its own games. In would line up and Mosion would give winter it was hockey and skating. All away any unsold items. Another was a age groups, both boys and girls, skated Mr Pleet who sold clothing, usually on at Bingham Square which we called credit, from house to house. I still Cathcart Square, and which was, remember that he sold my parents my (and still is today,) encircled by Parent, First Communion suit. I don’t know Cathcart and Bolton Streets. In the how much it cost, but I remember him center of the square was a hockey rink coming home at the end of each month that was encircled by an oval shaped and collecting a 50 cents payment. skating surface. We always skated clock- A certain rag picker’s son became wise, in a very orderly manner because a medical doctor, and my mother was, the older guys were usually paired with I think, his first patient. He became girls and wouldn’t stand for much non- her Doctor and she was so impressed sense that interfered with their courting. with him that she spread his name On the north side of the square amongst all the neighbours. He later were two temporary shacks that were set became very well known, but he never up by the City of Ottawa for the winter

Photo: The Ottawa Jewish Archives forgot her. Anytime my parents or skating season. Most of us boys put on Bakery , circa 1930. other members of my family were ill, our skates at home and skated on the in spite of his busy schedule, he would street to the rink There was a shack for The Jews always make a house call. I often think boys and one for girls. We boys used to Of special interest to us French of these poor, hard working parents try and hang around the door of the Canadians were the Jews. They had a who sacrificed everything for their girls' shack hoping to pick up a skating special relationship with us. Most Jews children’s education when I look partner. Sometimes a girl would only were of Russian origin and had come to around and see the many successful skate one or two laps with us and then Canada to avoid the pogroms which Jews today. They owe their parents go back in the shack. If you were lucky, often occurred in their homeland. Most and grandparents a lot! you would skate all evening with the were poor and did anything to survive. same girl, and if you were really lucky, Some roamed the streets in horse drawn The Gangs you got to walk her home. wagons buying up used metals or Most of the French kids hung around in Back streets were not cleared of clothing or selling fruits and vegetables. gangs, generally there were three kinds snow in those days. The snow plows They stood up to insults and teasing and that were based on age groups. We would simply shove the snow to the concentrated on making things better knew most of the gangs. The first gang kerbs. Over the winter, huge snow banks for their families. They pressured their that I belonged to was composed mostly would build up and the younger kids children to excel in school and to of kids up to about age 12 who lived on would build forts in them, complete become highly recognized professionals. Water Street (now Bruyere) between with tunnels. City crews would clean They were most successful. Three cases Cumberland and King Edward Streets. driveway entrances so that most forts in particular come to mind. One was The next step up was a large gang were family owned and their intricacies A.J. Freiman, a successful Department of about 25 or so whose ages ran from were generally an indication of how Store owner. The store bore his name. around age 12 to 16. This gang hung many kids lived in the house fronting It’s now The Bay located on Rideau around the #5 Fire station grounds the fort.

6 Hitching rides was another fun sport. The main streets such as Rideau and Dalhousie were usually cleared of snow that was hauled away in huge wagons which had hinged sides. These wagons were filled by shovelling crews, and when full, were pulled by a two- horse team to King Edward Park and dumped into the . Over the winter, huge mountains of snow would build up and these were great places for us kids to play and slide. We would wait for these rigs on Dalhousie Street, jump on the back panels and ride to the river. The drivers would leave us alone most of the time. Some tried to chase us away but soon gave up. Except for a few main streets, most streets were never bare, nor were they sanded and thus were slippery. We would hang on to the bottom of the rig,

squat on our haunches and slide on our Hugo Levendel, Ottawa Jewish Archives boots for blocks at a time. Sometimes we would hit a bare spot and come to an Mr. and Mrs. Abraham Lithwick in front of their grocery store, ca. early 1930. abrupt stop, tumble around, and unless we were hurt, run back to the rig and would reach up and pull on the cord supporting the bridge still exist today start all over again. that was tied to the overhead wires to and can be seen from the surrounding There was little automobile traffic disconnect the power feed. Without parks or the Minto Bridges, and the then, and for a variety of reasons. power, the streetcar would slow down railroad right of way is part of the Mostly, Lower Town residents were too rapidly and we would get off and run existing and planned extension of the poor to own autos and they were in any away before the street car conductor Vanier Parkway. case treated as a luxury item, only to be could catch us. As Spring wore on, the city would taken out on special occasions, including Spring was rather a dull time. cut channels and blast the ice off the the odd Sunday drive. Also, this was Skating was over, as was snow rig and Rideau River to avoid having it flood during the depression and the early years car riding, and there wasn’t much to along its banks. So at the Black Bridge, of the Second World War when gasoline do until the snow and ice melted and we would go to the bottom of the piers was rationed. the streets became clear. To speed the and amuse ourselves by jumping on large The braver ones amongst us would melting we chopped the ice from the ice flows that had been dynamited, and go “Bumper Riding” The routine was sidewalks in front of our houses and riding them down the Rideau River to the same as riding snow rigs. We would threw it on to the road to be crushed the Minto Bridges. There, the Rideau wait for a car to stop at the corner of by passing automobiles. narrowed and caused an ice jam that St Patrick and King Edward streets, grab A favourite haunt was the “Black enabled us to jump off and walk back to a car’s bumper and ride all the way to Bridge,” a railway trestle bridge on the Black Bridge to start again Sussex Street. Sussex Street always which a daily freight train crossed the Another spring activity was to see ended these adventures because it had Rideau River at the end of Redpath who would be the first to go swimming. streetcar tracks. In those days, the Street. Today, Boteler is the last street Being first to swim even for a short time “Rockcliffe” streetcar would start its run running East-West before Sussex. In in the icy cold water was quite a feat in Hull, go along Sparks , down to between these two streets is a road and earned the respect of all gang mem- Rideau, turn onto Sussex, and end up at leading to the MacDonald-Cartier bers. Word would quickly get around the entrance to Rockliffe Park where it Bridge. In those days, north of Boteler that so-and-so had been swimming and would turn around and head back. was Redpath Street, followed by Baird the other members quickly followed suit, The bravest of us would ride the Street. Between Baird and Redpath so as not to be thought “chicken.” streetcar to the park and back, but this were train tracks leading to various The Black Bridge had three piers. was very dangerous. We would hook warehouses, like the Lawrence Paper We shared the bridge with an Irish-English onto the streetcar tow bar and slide. Company, the Gamble Fruit and gang that lived in , and we Sometimes, if we wanted to get off, we Vegetables Company. The piers Continued on pages 10 and 11

7 Growing up Continued… away they would hope that someone city blocks met at an intersection. With would run from his hiding place and us, it was the Bruyere and Cumberland kick the can before the guardian could streets intersection. In those days, the all followed a strict conduct protocol. get back to it. If that happened, then all street corners were usually lit by a We never spoke to each other and when those previously caught would be free to 100-watt bulb hanging from a plate walking on the bridge, we kept to the run and hide, and the game would start shaped socket in the middle of the right and they to the left. It was as if the all over again. If the guardian managed intersection. One person was elected to other side was invisible. to catch everyone, he would select a stand under the light equidistant from We also each had our own pier to new guardian to replace him and we all four wooden light poles that were at swim from. We swam at the third pier would start over. Supper was usually the four corners. Four other persons counting from west to east, whereas the around five o’clock for most of us and by would each occupy (touch) a different other gang swam at the second pier. 5.30 we gathered to play the game. It pole. The idea was for two players to This meant that we often passed each would last until darkness. exchange positions by running from one other going swimming, but we all Younger boys did not play Kick the pole to the other. The middle person observed the “rules” and there were Can and their gang had to make its own would try to reach and touch one of the rarely any problems. fun. At night we used to run the sheds. In vacated poles before the runner trying To the east of the bridge was a city those days, practically every house had a to reach it could get there. Whoever the run swimming pool called “Flatrocks.” garage or a shed at the back of the lot line loser was would exchange places with It was there that we younger ones so that the sheds from one street backed the one in the centre and the game learned to swim. Once we could, we on the sheds or garages of the next street. would start all over again. would be accepted to swim at the Black Each of these were different so that to go On Saturdays a gang, of us would Bridge. But there was a test to pass. To from one to the other you either had to go to the movies. The Français Theatre really be welcomed, you had to swim climb up or jump down to the next. We on Dalhousie Street between York and from there to one of the Minto Bridges used to have races starting on the sheds George streets was one of our favourites. and back. If you had to rest along the nearest King Edward Street and running Every Saturday the Français had a way by floating on your back, this wasn’t west to Cumberland Street. I don’t recall matinee starting at 10 a.m.. It would so good. To really be part of the swim- anyone chasing us away. Maybe we were feature two full length movies, a serial, ming gang, you had to swim non-stop. too fast or too quiet, in any case, we didn’t and a cartoon, and was repeated in the There was also status attached to stay too long in one area. afternoon and evening. Entry cost a diving off the bridge. Most of us could More a trick than a game was playing dime, but there was always a couple of jump or dive off the middle span half ghosts. This required stealth and consisted us without money, so one of us would way up to the top. The real heroes were of one of us climbing on the back porch collect the available dimes and go to those who climbed all the way and then of a home and quietly hang a thread the box office and buy, as many tickets either jumped or dived from the top. that was attached a small metal washer as possible.. We would then quickly As summer came and days got at the top of the window frame with a enter in a bunch and point to the one longer, we would hang around the thumb tack. We would then tie a thread in the back with the tickets. He would boulevard, usually after supper, on to the washer and play it out all the way hand in the tickets, by then most of us King Edward Street across from the to the back garage or shed. Then we were inside the theatre before the clerk fire station. One of our favourite games would lie down quietly on the roof, wait could count us. We usually stayed for was Kick the Can. This consisted of until the lights in the bedroom were both the morning and matinee shows; gathering around an empty tin can, turned on and then off and gently tug during the short break between shows selecting one person to guard the can on the thread. The washer would hit the we would hide, in the washroom or and someone to boot it. Once the can window and make a slight noise. After under our seats and wait for the movies was kicked, the guardian would run to about a dozen tugs, the lights would go to start again. retrieve it and bring it back to its on and the window would go up as the My grandmother helped me get original position. In the meantime, occupants searched for the source of the my dime, all week she would collect the rest of us would run away and hide, noise. We always used a black fishing her own newspapers and those of her usually behind trees or nearby cars. The line and would tug on it very hard and neighbours and roll them up for me. guardian, would replace the can and usually the thumb tack would pop out I would show up around 8 A.M. on call out the names of those he saw or and we could pull everything away with- Saturday morning, pick up my two suspected were hiding nearby. He had out leaving any evidence. Neighbours rolls of paper and head for the market to go close to where a person was hid- often talked about the mysterious ghosts where I sold the rolls for a nickel ing, identify him and run back to touch clicking on their window panes. each to meat merchants for use as the can. Those who were caught this During spring, summer and fall we wrapping paper. way would hang around the can and as played “The Four Corners.” By this we the guardian roamed further and further meant where the four street corners of (to be continued in next issue)

8 Heritage Ottawa’s 2003 Walking Tour Schedule

For more information call or e-mail 2. Centretown: Heritage Ottawa at 230-8841 Walk through the heart of and [email protected] or . Its mixture check-out our website: of residential, institutional and www.heritageottawa.ca commercial buildings includes late Victorian red brick homes, Art Deco Join us for and hour and a half designs and Modernist high-rise - walk highlighting some of Ottawa’s yours to discover! finest architecture! Fraser Schoolhouse Guide: Terry de March, Heritage 62-64 John Street 1837 Tour Prices: $8.00 Heritage Ottawa Aficionado (Heritage Ottawa’s former home) members; $10.00 non-members Date: June 22, 2:00 PM house 19th century labourers. Walk Departure: City Hall, 111 Lisgar 1. Beaux Arts Ottawa: through one of Ottawa’s most at Cartier (This tour will be given twice this historic neighbourhoods. summer.) The architectural style of 3. Glebe: the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris Guide: Jennifer Rosebrugh, Former Come and see the shady streets came to the United States and later Heritage Ottawa President and lanes of one of Ottawa’s most to Ottawa. Ottawa’s Beaux Arts charming neighbourhoods. Discover Date: July 20, 2:00 PM buildings feature classical exteriors the story behind the Queen on modern steel frames, with Departure: 62 John St, near Elizabeth Driveway, Central Park symmetrical plans and a progressive Sussex Dr. Gardens and everything in between. arrangement of space. Twelve of the city’s most important Beaux- 5. Sandy Hill: Guide: Gouhar Shemdin, Arts buildings, designed by leading The beautifully maintained Conservation Architect Canadian and American architects mansions and townhouses of this in the first half of the 20th century, Date: July 6, 2:00 PM early Ottawa residential district date from 1870 into the early 20th century. plus some additional classical Departure: Corner of Clemow and The tour will highlight the positive facades, will be seen along Sparks O’Connor and Wellington Streets. effect zoning changes in the mid- 4. New Edinburgh: 1970s had on the preservation of buildings in the area. Guide: David Jeanes, Railway & Once a village lying outside the Amateur Historian bounds of , New Edinburgh Guide: Judy Deegan, Former Date: June 8, 2:00 PM was established by industrialist LACAC member and Sandy Hill Thomas McKay and comprises both Departure: Conference Centre resident architecturally-rich buildings and (formerly Union Station) simpler stone dwellings built to Date: August 10, 2:00 PM entrance Continued on pages 10 and 11

9 Walking Tour Continued… 170, Montcalm Street, (formerly Union Station) (former Hull). The Écomusée is Confederation Square entrance located near the Tour Eiffel bridge Departure: , 335 which crosses the Ruisseau 10. : Laurier Ave. East (at Chapel) de la Brasserie at the corner of Join us for a walk through picturesque 6. Village of Britannia: Papineau Street. Rockcliffe Park with its mix of architectural styles from stately stone Walk through the historic Village of 8. Lowertown: mansions and interesting contemporary Britannia and discover the story of Visit the Basilica, churches, court- designs to remaining summer its emergence as a late-Victorian yards and historic buildings of the cottages. Learn about the history of resort destination. The extension ByWard Market and Lowertown the village and the role the MacKay of the citys streetcar tracks westward area. This area represents the heart and Keefer families had in determining in 1900 brought Ottawa’s leisure of historic Ottawa since it was here its layout and even the design of seekers, ushering in the golden years that the canal workers lived and the many of its homes. before World War I. Much of earliest commercial district began. Britannia retains a village flavour Guide: Martha Edmond, Historian and many former cottages have Guide: Hagit Hadaya, Architectural & Author survived, some still evoking the Historian character of the old summer resort Date: October 19, 2:00 PM community. Date: September 7, 2:00 PM Departure: corner of Sandridge Departure: Statue of Col. , and Hillsdale Guide: Carolyn Quinn, Former Major’s Hill Park (behind the Heritage Ottawa President Château Laurier Hotel) Date: August 24, 2:00 PM Departure: Parking lot at top of hill 9. Beaux Arts Ottawa: off Greenview Ave. (details will be The architectural style of the Ecole in the schedule included with the des Beaux-Arts in Paris came to the Newsletter posting). United States and later to Ottawa. Ottawa’s Beaux Arts buildings 7. The Ruisseau de la feature classical exteriors on modern Brasserie in Gatineau steel frames, with symmetrical plans (formerly Hull): and a progressive arrangement of Mullen Discover the industrial heritage of space. Twelve of the city’s most c the former City of Hull, including important Beaux-Arts buildings,

the E.B. Eddy buildings, the designed by leading Canadian and Barbara M historical plaque of Hull’s founder American architects in the first half Close-up of terra cotta figure of “Hope” at Philemon Wright and the Village of the 20th century, plus some addi- 61-63 Sparks St. d’Argentine where many heritage tional classical façades, will be seen houses are located. This year, this along Sparks and Wellington 11. Terra Cotta in the tour will be given in English. Streets. Downtown Core: Take a stroll down Sparks and Guide: Michel Prévost, President, Guide: David Jeanes, Railway & Wellington Streets to see and hear Societé d’histoire de l’Outaouais Amateur Historian about Ottawa’s early 1900’s unique Date: September 7, 11:00 AM Date: September 14, 2:00 PM glazed terra cotta buildings. Learn about terra cotta’s use as a building Departure: The Écomusée de Hull, Departure: Conference Centre

10 material and its important role in the early 20th century development A Modest Proposal to Solve City of the Downtown Core. of Ottawa Expansion Problems by Paul Stumes (The author whimsically suggests what might have been.) Guide: Barbara McMullen, Urban Planning & Heritage Consultant ome time ago it was announced Date: September 28, 2:00 PM that the current Ottawa City S Archives was inadequate for stor- Departure: Southeast corner of ing the expected deluge of archival Rideau St. and Colonel By Dr., material for the new City. The problem just outside . is intensified by the private owner of the present archive building, who wants vacant possession. The City Administration 12. Terra Cotta in is now looking for new space for the Centretown: Archives and other functions. The former Ottawa Police H.Q. reduced Take a walk through Centretown Heritage Ottawa could recommend that the City Management move the to debris. to view its late 1890’s terra cotta- Archives to the old abandoned City decorated Queen Anne Revival Police Headquarters. In that building No Cause for Alarm homes and public buildings. Learn there would be sufficient space to concen- The building discussed in this article was dismantled several years before the about Ontario’s late 19th century trate several other City branches which are spread all over Ottawa. This building presiding City Council was elected and brick and terra cotta manufacturers, not only has increased space but is the present City Administration came including T.M. Clark of New equipped with proper heating, plumbing, into effect. Members of Heritage Edinburgh who produced Ontario’s fire protection and other requlred facili- Ottawa can be assured that the new City of Ottawa will take better care of first architectural terra cotta. ties. An additional bonus is that the vacated City police headquarters is within its assets. walking distance of the new Ottawa City Guide: Barbara McMullen, Urban Hall. If all the space in the suggested Planning & Heritage Consultant building is not required by the City the empty portion could be rented. to ease Date: October 5, 2:00 PM the city taxpayers’ burden. Departure: St. George’s Church, Another bonus perhaps, would be that within a few decades,this magnificent Metcalfe at Gloucester St. example of 20th Century Modern Architecture would become, one of Ottawa’s most cherished heritage buildings. Heritage Ottawa wishes to thank the Official Sponsor News Flash A well informed authority points out to of the 2003 Heritage Walking Heritage Ottawa that the City Archives Councillor , Chair of the Tour Season: and otber City Offices can not now be Health, Recreation and Social Services moved into the City Police Headquarters, Committee, presents Heritage Ottawa it has been razed to make outdoor space Board member Paul Stumes with a available for unspecified public activities Heritage Community Recognition Program on Waller Street in downtown Ottawa. Certificate of Achievement and an Ontario Heritage Foundation Achievement pin. The presentation of this award, recognizing Paul's long-time contribution to the preservation of Ottawa’s built heritage, took place at on Thursday, May 1, 2003. A number of Paul’s Heritage Ottawa Board colleagues Sussex Capital Inc. also attended the presentation ceremony. Sixty-Two John Street, Ottawa, Congratulations Paul! K1M 1M3 (613) 741-7970

11 President Continued… guide to the Downtown which will be I want to thank each of the published in September thanks to the members of the current Board for their a brief at the National Capital support of the Trillium Foundation help throughout the year, especially Commission’s annual public meeting. which awarded us a grant of $9700. our Past-President, Carolyn Quinn for Thanks to the efforts of Board The guide will be publically “launched” all of her efforts over the past six years member John Arnold and his committee, in September and will be available for and for the help that she has given to we published 5000 copies of a new sale at a modest price. me since I assumed the presidency eight brochure. Jim Georgiles continues single Our webmaster and Board member, months ago. A special thanks to our - handedly to produce the Newsletter Peter O’Malley, has enhanced our only “employee” Jennifer Jimmo, for and two editions have appeared since website over the past year, including her efforts above and beyond the call our last Annual General Meeting. With the establishment of an archives of the of duty. There are few employees the help of a newly established editorial complete run of the Heritage Ottawa with the devotion to stick with a job committee, the aim is to publish four Newsletter dating back to 1974. These when the employer can usually only issues in 2003. archived issues, contain over 600 pages pay her for five or six days of work Jennifer Rosebrugh organised our of important information on the per month. Walking Tours for 2002. The eight tours heritage movement in Ottawa over We could not continue to operate drew over 200 participants and raised the past three decades. It will serve as without the financial assistance of the over $2000 in much-needed revenue. an educational tool for those interested City of Ottawa’s Heritage Department Sussex Capital Inc. were the official in the study of our built heritage and which provides us with an operating sponsor for our tours and their generosity will be of interest to the public as well. grant every year. This year we received enabled us to produce a brochure We are the first heritage organization $10,600. If we want to increase this promoting the tours. Thanks to the in Canada in Canada to archive our however, we must have a strategic plan efforts of this year’s tour organizer, publications in this manner. A search developed before the end of the year. Louisa Coates, we shall offer a record engine is being developed for the The Ontario Ministry of Culture also 12 tours between June 8 and October 5. archived information which will further provided us with a grant of $1,035. Sussex Capital have again agreed to be enhance its usefulness. And finally thanks to you, the the official sponsor of these events. There is much to be done but members. Your Board appreciates and The promotional brochure should be Heritage Ottawa needs the active support needs your ongoing support. I hope you available in early June but the complete and involvement of more members. At many of you will get more involved in listing is on our website and will appear the registration table there are lists of the the activities of Heritage Ottawa in the in the June issue of the Newsletter. various committees with their duties and upcoming year. Barbara McMullen is preparing a space for members to sign-up. I urge you terra cotta architecture walking tour to do so. We really need your help. Thank you for your attention.

WE NEED YOUR SUPPORT - BECOME A MEMBER Individual: $25 Patron: $50 Family: $30 Corporation: $100 Student $15 Senior: $15

Name: Please, forward with payment to: Address: HERITAGE OTTAWA 2 Daly Avenue, Ottawa, Postal Code: Ontario K1N 6E2 Telephone: (home) (business) Tel: 230-8841 Fax: 564-4228 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail:

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