Weaving and Dyeing in the Colorful Spirit of an Ancient Craft
Scharine Kirchoff http://www.RyukyuHeritageTextiles.Com
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…let’s have some fun!
Today is an overview… • some weave structures; • a bit about spinning; • more about natural dyeing; • do a little armchair travel, then land back here in Alaska; and, • ask “What if”...
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…the Ryukyu Islands
• Archipelago in Southwestern Japan • Main island, Okinawa, is ~1500 km from Tokyo • Over 100 Islands – each with it’s own Ryukyuan language and culture • Many cultural influences from Southeast Asia, China, Korea and Japan
I was born here on Okinawa Island
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…the Ryukyu Islands
• Over 40 inhabited islands – each with it’s own textile culture
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…the Ryukyu Islands
• Subtropical Climate • Natural Beauty
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…the Ryukyu Islands
Old Traditions
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…the Ryukyu Islands
• Textiles originated in 15th century (Ryukyu Kingdom era)
• Islands flourished as a trading nation between 2 major powers, China and Japan
• Techniques learned from neighboring countries, then the Islands developed a unique textile culture of their own
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...the Ryukyu Islands
Important Developments • In 17th century, Satsuma Clan invaded Ryukyu Kingdom – lost battle, but Ryukyu Court was not dismantled • Instead, taxes had to be paid to the Satsuma Clan • Ryukyu textiles had already become a beautiful symbol of cultural sophistication, so they became important to diplomacy and were a key commodity • Administrative guidance was developed, and contributed to the refinement of Ryukyu weaving • High standard of quality ensured tax payments in the form of textiles were satisfactory to the Satsuma Clan CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…Okinawa Island old traditions meet modern life...
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...my Family
...weaving and natural dye techniques are passed from generation to generation
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...my Family
Grandmother • Naturalist/Herbalist • Weaver and Natural Dyer • “Weave Your Soul into the Fabric”
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...my Weaving Heritage
• Okinawan High Loom (Takahata)
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...my Weaving Heritage
My Spinning Wheel
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...my Weaving Heritage
”treasure each thread as i weave it so that the fabric is filled with my feeling”
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...my Cultural Heritage
2 Fabrics
1. Woven...Bashofu, Kasuri Ikat, Shuri Ori 2. Dyed...Bingata
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Bashofu Ito Basho Processing
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Bashofu Hand-Tied
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Bashofu
Spun
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Bashofu
Hand-Dyed with Botanical Dyes
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Bashofu
Handwoven
• 6 months to make a kimono
• 200 stems
• 20,000 hand-tied knots
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...my Ryukyu Heritage
...learn more...
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Ryukyu Kasuri
• Ikat textiles woven with hand-tied and hand-dyed warp and/or weft yarns
• 14th century possibly via SE Asia – passed to mainland Japan 16th century
• woven with Ito Basho, cotton, or silk threads
• natural elements...birds in flight, flowing water, glowing fireflies
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Ryukyu Kasuri
...not my grandmother’s Ryukyu Kasuri
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Ryukyu Kasuri
...learn more
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Shuri Hana Ori
• originated in Shuri, the old capital of the Ryukyu Dynasty • supplementary weft technique • colored by botanical dyes
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Botanical Dyework Bingata
• developed in 15th century
• botanical pigments (natural dyes) are applied to cotton, silk and bashofu
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Bingata
Stencil
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Bingata Resist Paste
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Bingata
• Botanical sourced pigments are vibrant
• nature provides inspiration for the motifs
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Chimugukuru WYUA Conference, Los Angeles, CA
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Weaver’s Journey...Botanical Dyeing
• Ryukyu Ai • Precipitated Indigo
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Botanical Dyeing
…not my grandmother’s indigo
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Botanical Dyeing
...what if?
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Botanical Dyeing
...gone rogue?
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…Eco-Dyeing
What if...
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…Eco-Dyeing
What if...
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Eco-Dyeing
...use Alaska’s natural beauty for both the color and inspiration
“Drifting Time”
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Eco-Dyeing
what if...
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Eco-Dyeing
What if…
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey...Eco-Dyeing
What if…
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…Eco-Dyeing
...natureIndigo provides Borealis inspiration I
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff A Textile Journey…for more info.
“Indigo Borealis II”
• Visit my website http://RyukyuHeritage Textiles.com for more “What if’s”, some artwork, weaving, natural dyeing and workshop info. • Artwork at Blue Hollomon Gallery • Thank you Anchorage Weaving and Spinning Guild (AWSG)!
CC copyright Scharine Kirchoff