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Marrakesh & Central Morocco مراكش ووسط المغرب

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Marrakesh & Central Morocco مراكش ووسط المغرب Marrakesh & Central Morocco مراكش ووسط المغرب Includes ¨ Why Go? Marrakesh . .47 Marrakesh is most people’s first taste of Morocco and what Ouirgane . .82 an introduction it is. Somewhere between the donkey-cart The High Atlas . .83 swerving souq action, the tilework and marble monument Toubkal National overload, and the hundredth time you find yourself lost Park . .100 amid the medina’s doodling alleyways, this great city of the Maghreb will work its magic on you. But when you’ve Tizi n’Test . .109 finally found your way out of the old city, Marrakesh is a The Southern Oases .109 jumping-off point to some of Morocco’s most stunning land- Drâa Valley . 118 scapes, set against the soaring peaks of the Atlas mountains. Dadès Valley Hike along craggy clifftops to tiny Berber villages in & The Gorges . 128 the High Atlas, or amid orchards and wind-whittled rock Ziz Valley formations inside the lush Dadès Gorge. Then explore the & The Tafilalt . .142 palm-studded Drâa Valley and its slumping mudbrick kas- Rissani to Zagora. 150 bahs and ksour on your way east to the Sahara. Sitting atop a sculpted sand dune at sunrise is the perfect orange-hued curtain call to this extraordinary region. Best Places to Eat ¨ Amal Center (p74) ¨ Al Fassia (p75) When to Go ¨ Douyria (p116) Marrakesh ¨ Chez Pierre (p137) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 8/200 ¨ Dar Anika (p74) 30/86 6/150 Best Places to 20/68 4/100 Sleep 10/50 2/50 ¨ Riad Azoulay (p70) 0/32 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ L’Ma Lodge (p130) ¨ Tizouit (p85) Mar–Apr Moun- Marrakesh when Oct–Nov Dune es- tains thaw, wild- prices jump. capades beckon. ¨ Maison Merzouga (p148) flowers bloom. May–Jun Pull on Prime desert ¨ Riad Bledna (p71) Though skip your hiking boots time with gentle Easter holidays in and hit the High breezes and dates ¨ Riad Dar Sofian (p123) Atlas trails. galore. 47 .securing Almoravid control of Andalucia مراكش MARRAKESH POP 1,323,005 Marrakesh, once just a patch of dirt, became Prepare for your senses to be slapped. the operational centre of an empire that Marrakesh’s medina, wrapped within pow- stretched right up to Barcelona’s city limits. der-pink pisé (rammed earth) ramparts, is Almohad warriors stormed the city in a show-stopping muddle of crowded souqs 1147 and left only the plumbing and the where sheep carcasses swing from hooks Koubba Ba’adiyn intact. Almohad ruler MORO CENTRAL & MARRAKESH next door to twinkling lamps, and squig- Yacoub al-Mansour remodelled Marrakesh gling ochre-dusted lanes lead to nowhere. with a fortified kasbah, glorious gardens, The main artery into this labyrinthine qissaria (covered markets), a rebuilt Kout- web is the vast square of Djemaa el-Fna, oubia and a triumphal gate (Bab Agnaou). where it’s carnival night every night and But the Almohads lost their showpiece to musicians, acrobats, and slapstick acting the Merenids in 1269, who turned royal at- troupes tap into the old city’s frenetic pulse. tention to Meknès and Fez. Raised, razed, and then raised again; al- After centuries of playing second fiddle most 1000 years after its founding, Morocco’s under Merenid rule, Marrakesh regained it’s Red City continues to evolve. Today its cara- crown in the 16th century, when the Saadi- vanserai culture and craft heritage lay along- ans established their dynasty in the city. side a contemporary arts scene that brings Marrakesh thrived as the crux of lucrative sugar-trade routes, and a trading centre for festivals and design initiatives to its door. cc Chi-chi boutiques sit next to bazaar-stalls Christians and a protected mellah (Jewish quarter) were established in 1558. Ahmed O within the souqs, and the traders of old have MARRAKESH MARRAKESH al-Mansour ed-Dahbi (the Victorious and M long since been swapped for groups of tour- ARRAKESH ists goggling at palace and mansion frippery Golden) paved the Badi Palace with gold where the one percenters of past centuries and took opulence to the grave in the gilded once lived. Saadian Tombs. Rapid growth though, has brought its The Saadian dynasty crumbled in the 17th attendant problems. Congestion, pollution century, paving the way for the Alawites to and creeping urbanisation have become seize the reins. Alawite leader Moulay Ismail environmental issues while the recent eco- preferred Meknès to Marrakesh, and moved nomic downturn has exposed the fragility his headquarters there – though not before of tourism-driven economy. But this is a city looting the Badi Palace. Stripped of its role that refuses to sit still and it’s that abundant as the imperial base, Marrakesh entered its energy that will help steer Marrakesh for- Wild West period with big guns vying for ward. control. Those who prevailed built extrava- More than anywhere else in Morocco, this gant riads, though much of the population is where tradition and modernity merge. lived hand to mouth in crowded fondouqs Marrakesh will dazzle, frazzle and enchant. (rooming houses). Put on your tassle-toed babouches (leather After 1912, when Morocco was handed to slippers) and dive right in. the French protectorate, Thami el-Glaoui was installed as pasha of Marrakesh. While History he went to work terrorising southern Mo- rocco, French and Spanish colonists were The Berber Sanhaja tribe founded the Al- busy building themselves a ville nouvel- moravid dynasty in the 11th century and le (new town) outside of Marrakesh’s city swept through the south of Morocco, demol- walls. ishing opponents as they rode north. They After independence in 1956, Marrakesh pitched their campsite on a desolate swath was left without a clear role and resumed of land that would become Marrakesh. its fallback career as a caravanserai – be- Almoravid Berber leader Youssef ben coming the nation’s breakaway success. Tachfine and his savvy wife Zeinab recog- Roving hippies built the city’s mystique nised its strategic potential, and built ram- in the 1960s and ’70s, and visits by the parts around the encampment in AD 1062. Rolling Stones, Beatles and Led Zeppelin The Almoravids established the city’s khet- gave the city star power. In the 1990s pri- tara (underground irrigation system) and vate medina mansions were converted into signature pink mudbrick architecture. B&Bs, just as low-cost airlines delivered At the age of almost 80, Youssef ben weekenders to brass-studded riad doors. Tachfine launched successful campaigns .
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