Sightseeing Highlights

SIGHTSEEING HIGHLIGHTS

Japan is a distant country, seemingly füll of mystery to Westerners, with a wealth of old temples, shrines and cultural treasures. On top of that it has historic towns and a scenic diversity from bizarre vokanic mountains to wide plains füll of cherry trees and archipelagos with tranquil bays.

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1 * « Akan National Park Sub-arctic virgin forests extend around three lakes, which have particularly vibrant colours in the autumn. • page 189

2 * • Daisetsuzan National Park 's biggest national park boasts 2000m/6500 ft mountains, which have earned it the name »Roof of « • page 229 Festivity 3 * • Towada-Hachimantai During the annual festival of the city's National Park founding, 's inhabitants dress up in historic costumes from every period. A crystal-clear, huge crater lake, sur- rounded by thick forests, hot Springs and lava domes. • page 307 4 **Hiraizumi The one-time »Kyoto of the north« is now Skyscrapers a quiet village with a famous temple. With the Tokyo Metropolitan Government • page 264 Building the Japanese star architect Tange Kenzo has given the city a modern land- 5 + • Matsushima mark. The magical bay with hundreds of rocky islands covered in pine trees is one of Japan's three most famous landscapes. • page 379

6 * * Chubu-Sangaku National Park • Japanese Alps In the summer these mountains are populär amongst hikers, in the winter large amounts of snow ensure fun on the Ski slopes. • page 221

7 * * Nikko Nikko attracts visitors with magnificent mausoleums in a sea of cedars, the national park west of the town with scenic beauty. • page 437

8 * • Takayama This attractive small town in the Japanese Alps is an arts and crafts centre with a long tradition. • page soo

9 • • Fuji-san The country's highest mountain is a sacred place and Japan's hallmark, commanding awe in those who see it. • page 233 Sightseeing Highlights

10 »* Tokyo attractive island landscape with small Japan's capital is one of the world's largest fishing villages and dreamy bays. cities; it is a trend-setter and the country's • page 275 undisputed centre. • page 505 19** Kotohira, Kompira-san 11 »» Kamakura Hundreds of Steps have to be climbed to Thanks to its many temples and shrines get to this shrine. It is the most important containing valuable art treasures, this destination of pilgrimage to all seafarers town attracts great numbers of visitors. and travellers. • page 499 • page 295 20 * * Yoshino-Kumano 12 »* Matsue National Park Peaceful old castle town on the Sea of The national park's landscape incorporates Japan. • page 374 mountains, gorges, waterfalls and plenty of cherry trees. • page 568 13 ** Kyoto The former capital is Japan's cultural 21 • * Koya-san centre; despite having more than a million This Buddhist monastery complex with inhabitants Kyoto has managed to hold on inviting temple accommodation is situated to a lot of its old atmosphere. Countless between mountain peaks. • page 327 temples, museums and cultural treasures make Kyoto the country's most significant 22 * * Aso-Kuju National Park travel destination. • page 337 This national park contains bizarre moun- tain ranges, wide, fertile plains and one of 14 * * Himeji the world's largest craters. »• page 199 The classical Japanese castle: in Himeji it has survived in its original State. 23 * * Beppu t» page 260 Japan's most famous spa owes its repu- tation to its countless hot Springs and is ** simmering »hell ponds«. The cradle of Japanese culture gave an • page 208 entire period its name and now attracts many tourists with its extraordinary wealth 24 * * Nagasaki of cultural attractions. • page 414 This lively port with its Chinese and European heritage is considered to have 16 * * Hiroshima one of the most beautiful locations in the Impressive memorials as well as a modern country. • page 399 City. • page 267 25 * * Okinawa 17 * * Kurashiki Mild climate and subtropical Vegetation This picturesque town with its many canals make this island group an exotic destina- and lovely museums has largely managed tion for foreigners and Japanese travellers to hold on to the character of days gone alike. • page 453 by. • page 333 Hot Springs 18 * * Inland Sea • Setonaikai The famous spa of Beppu is just the right Between the main islands of Honshu, place for a Japanese bath done in style Shikoku and Kyushu is the Inland Sea, an Baedeker's Best Tips

BAEDEKER'S BEST TIPS

This is a compilation of the most interesting Baedeker tips mentioned in this book! Experience and enjoy Japan from its best side.

H How to get there H Japanese paper These tips will help you find even the In the small town of Ogawa with its most complicated Japanese Workshops for hand-made paper, tour- addresses. •page m ists are allowed to try their own hands at the art of paper making. H Take an icebreaker through • page 219 the pack ice Every day in winter the Aurora sets off H at sunrise on a trip through the drift ice off the Anyone willing to dimb Mount Fuji at coast of Abashiri. • page 187 night time will be rewarded with a magnificent sunrise. • page 237 B Underwater world Discover the beauty of Ashizuri Marine H Experiencing Zen Park from a boat with a glass floor. To dive deeper into Zen Buddhism, • page199 spend the night in the Eiheiji temple and experience the daily lives of the H Outdoor bathing monks. • page 242 The spa of Kurokawa Onsen is known for its open-air baths. Why not give H Thirst quencher them a try, or, even better, spend the After visiting Hakodate's sights, why night here, too! • page 202 not stop for a refreshing, home-made beer at Hakodate Beer? • page 253

H Tea in the garden In a garden west of visitors have the chance to experience the tea ceremony. •• page 261

H A taxi ride on the water Hiroshima is a city on the water, so why not explore the city from the water, too? Gangitaxi makes it possible! • page 270

H Potatoes done differently Kagoshima is known for its liquor made of sweet potatoes. More than 100 varieties and many other products made from potatoes can be found in the Shopping quarter. • page 293 •• Baedeker's Best Tips

B No on Sundays Kanazawa is a centre of No stagecraft and it has its own theatre specially for No Performances. • page 309

B Market day East of Kochi Castle a market rieh in tradition is held every Sunday. • page 326

B Take a boat through the rapids A boat trip through the Kuma rapids, among the most famous in Japan, is highly recommendable. • page 333

B Ivy Square An old textiles factory in Kurashiki was transformed and now houses Studios, cultural facilities and even a hotel. B Underwater paradise • page 334 Okinawa is an attractive destination for divers and snorkellers. The island of B A rewarding walk Ishigaki is considered one of Japan's best A stroll along the Philosophers' Walk in places to go diving. «• page 454 Kyoto is particularly lovely during the cherry blossom in the spring and when the B Lively all-female opera leaves change colour in the autumn. Anyone spending some time in Takarazuka • page 354 near Osaka should not miss the famous Revue Theatre. • page 470 B Cycling on Shikoku Shikoku is wonderfully suited to cycling. It B Drum roll is a great way to explore some of the 88 Sado is home to the internationally famous temples of pilgrimage around taiko drum group Kodo, which puts on a Matsuyama. • page 386 world music festival every year in August. • page 475 B Kettles and kokeshi Morioka's best-known produets are iron- B Dining on the water ware and wooden dolls known as A pleasure with hundreds of years of kokeshi. • page 395 tradition is a meal in a yakata-bune, a narrow, covered boat, while it drifts in B »Moving Forward« leisurely fashion across Tokyo Bay. Those who book on time can visit the • page 517 Toyota factory in the town of Toyota near Nagoya. • page 408 B Multimedia in the evening Even after darkness falls it is well worth B Colourful spring festival visiting the huge electronics quarter of Every year in May a lively spring festival is Tokyo with its flickering neon advertise- celebrated at Toshogu shrine. ments and newest ränge of goods from the • page 444 world of entertainment. • page 536 8 ICONTEHTS Contents

BACKGROUND PRACTICAL INFORMATION 14 Mysterious Realm FROM A to Z 18 Facts 19 Nature 27 Population • Politics • Economy 108 Accommodation 36 History m Addresses 37 Early History 112 Arrival • ßefore the Journey 39 Japanese Antiquity 114 Electricity 42 Medieval Japan 115 Emergency 45 Early Modern Period 115 Etiquette and Customs 46 Modern Times 116 Festivals, Holidays and Events 50 Religion 122 Food and Drink 51 Buddhism 123 Special: Eating with 54 Special: Zen and the chopsticks Way of the Samurai 128 Health 58 Shinto 128 Information 59 Other Religions 130 Language 62 Arts and Culture 63 Overview of Japanese Art History Price categories 71 Arts and Craftsmanship w UntAlr 79 Special: Picture Stories w Hotels Luxury: more than ¥ 20,000 85 Architecture Mid-range: up to ¥ 20,000 92 Theatre Budget: up to ¥ 8000 95 Tea Ceremony 98 Geishas For an overnight stay 100 Famous People in a double room

• Restaurants Expensive: more than ¥ 3000 Moderate: up to ¥ 3000 Inexpensive: up to ¥ 1500

for an entree without drinks Contents CONTENTSI

SIGHTS FROM 132 Special: The World's A toZ Hardest Language and Writing System? 186 Abashiri 136 Literature 187 Aizu-Wakamatsu 138 Media 189 Akan National Park 138 Money 191 Akita 139 National Parks 192 Ama-no-hashidate 139 Opening Hours 194 Aomori 139 Pachinko 196 Arita 141 Personal Safety 198 Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park 141 Post and Telecommunications 199 Aso-Kuju National Park 142 Prices and Discounts 203 Awajishima 143 Shopping 204 Bandai-Asahi National Park 118 Spas 208 Beppu 150 Sports 213 Biwa Lake 152 Special: Battle of the Giants 217 Chichibu-Tama National Park 154 Time 220 Chiran 154 Toilets 221 Chubu-Sangaku National Park 155 Transport Japanese Alps 158 When to Go 225 Daisen-Oki National Park 229 Daisetsuzan National Park 233 Fuji-san TOURS 238 Fuji Lakes (Fuji-goko) 241 Fukui 243 Fukuoka 166 Travelling in Japan 250 Hagi 167 Japan's Regions 251 Hakodate 174 Tour 1: Japan Done Differently 255 Hakone 176 Tour 2: The Call of the Mountains 260 Himeji 178 Tour 3: On Pilgrimage 262 3D: White Heran Castle 180 Tour 4: Around the Inland Sea 264 Hiraizumi 182 Tour 5: Southem Charm 266 Hirosaki Contents

267 Hiroshima 330 Kumamoto 274 Ibusuki 333 Kurashiki 275 Inland Sea (Setonaikai) 336 Kushiro 279 Ise-Shima National Park 337 Kyoto 284 Izu Peninsula 368 3D: The Golden Pavillon 292 Kagoshima 374 Matsue 295 Kamakura 377 Matsumoto 305 Kanazawa 379 Matsushima 310 Karatsu 380 Special: Japan's Three 312 Karuizawa Most Famous Landscapes 314 Kirishima-Yaku National Park 316 Kitakyushu Garden design 318 Kobe The lovely Golden Pavillon in Kyoto is 324 Kochi surrounded by an extensive, beautifully designed pond garden 327 Koya-san * page 368 Contents

384 Matsuyama 387 Mito 389 Miyajima (Itsukushima) 392 Miyazaki 394 Morioka 396 Nagano 399 Nagasaki 405 Nagoya 414 Nara 503 Tokushima 435 Niigata 505 Tokyo 437 Nikko 532 3 D: Tokyo Metropolitan 442 3D: The Gate of Sunlight Government Building 447 Noto Peninsula 546 Tottori 449 Oga Peninsula 547 Towada-Hachimantai National Park 450 Okayama 550 Tsuruga 453 Okinawa 551 Tsuwano 459 Osaka 552 Unzen-Amakusa National Park 470 Otaru 555 Uwajima 472 Rikuchu-kaigan National Park 556 Wakayama 473 Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu 557 Yaba-Hita-Hikosan National Park Quasi-National Park 474 Sado 559 Yamagata 476 561 Yamaguchi 478 Sakata 564 Yokohama 480 Sapporo 570 Yoshino-Kumano National Park 485 Satsunan Islands 486 Sendai 488 Shikotsu-Toya National Park 491 Shimonoseki 574 Glossary 492 575 Japanese Pantheon 493 Shizuoka 577 Index 495 Shodoshima 585 List of Maps and Illustrations 496 Takamatsu 586 Photo Credits 500 Takayama 587 Publisher's Information