Three's Company
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BEAUTY’S NEXT WAVE MIAMI — Top leaders of the beauty industry next generation of leadership. met at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel here Among the highlights: from May 12 to 14 for the fifth WWD Beauty ● Globalism begins at home with the need for CEO Summit to hammer out the most vexing manufacturers to serve overlooked segments questions facing the business. And the star- of the population. studded lineup of speakers lived up to the ● To regain relevance in all sectors, brands theme of the conference. In particular, must seek to reconnect emotionally with con- William Lauder, soon to be ceo of the Estée sumers. Lauder Cos., and François-Henri Pinault, For more, see comprehensive summit cov- SUMMIT PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE SUMMIT PHOTOS BY chairman of Artémis Group, epitomized the erage, pages 8 to 23. François-Henri Pinault William Lauder WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • June 4, 2004 • $2.00 Beauty Three’s Company NEW YORK — On the eve of Monday’s CFDA Awards, as well as Wednesday’s FiFi trophy bash, American designers are stepping out with their other fall collections: fragrances. Front and center is Donna Karan’s new DKNY scent, Be Delicious — an apple for the Big Apple. To the right, Oscar de la Renta’s newest bloom, Rosamor, aimed at a younger, more fetching woman. And to the left, Kenneth Cole is taking aim at the men’s market with Reaction Kenneth Cole, tied to his apparel collection of the same name. For more, see pages 6 and 7. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 4, 2004 WWDFRIDAY Sokol Said Heading to Sean John Beauty By Lisa Lockwood women’s division. Earlier, she spent 20 years at GENERAL Calvin Klein, rising to president of Calvin Klein Marks & Spencer rejected an offer potentially worth up to 9 billion pounds, NEW YORK — Susan Sokol is expected to be Collection, a post she held for 11 years. or $16.56 billion, from U.K. retail and real estate tycoon Philip Green. named senior vice president of Sean John Sokol is expected to help Sean John create 2 Women’s, according to industry sources. and build a women’s business. In an interview Neiman Marcus promoted three top merchants, including Ann Stordahl to A Sean John spokesman declined comment last month, Sean “P. Diddy” Combs, president 2 executive vice president for women’s and its New York fashion office. Thursday, while Sokol could not be reached. and ceo of Sean John, said his long-anticipated SUZY: Bruce Willis and David Schwimmer: Back on the scene...A Wales of But sources close to the company said Sokol women’s line would soon become a reality, not- will be responsible for all aspects of the ing a capsule collection would debut at his new 4 a house for Douglas and Zeta-Jones...The Tony Awards brigade. women’s collection, which will be officially store set to open in late August at 41st Street Consumers cast aside worries over record gas prices and a looming launched for fall 2005 selling. and Fifth Avenue here. A full-blown women’s 5 interest rate increase by splurging at high-end stores in May. Most recently, Sokol had her own consulting apparel collection is planned for fall 2005, and firm, SLS Consulting, which represented Badgley Combs expects to show a women’s line during BEAUTY: Donna Karan Cosmetics plans to juice up its DKNY beauty Mischka, Judith Leiber and Michael Kors. Before the February 2005 fashion shows. 6 franchise in October with its new women’s scent called Be Delicious. that, she was president and chief executive offi- Sean John, which this year is expected to Oscar de la Renta espouses on Rosamor, his seventh fragrance, which was cer of Pegasus Apparel Group, prior to which she generate $450 million in retail sales, launched 7 unveiled at the Metropolitan Museum of Art here Wednesday night. was president of Donna Karan International’s its men’s sportswear collection in spring 1999. Coverage of the WWD Beauty CEO Summit appears on pages 8-23. Classified Advertisements........................................................................27 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. M&S Nixes Green’s $16.6B Bid VOLUME 187, NO. 116. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 By Samantha Conti no surprise to institutional share- with Davies, which expires next West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; holders, who said they were dis- year. Indeed, the Davies contract Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior LONDON — Marks & Spencer plc appointed by Green’s proposed is so important to Green that the Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- Thursday rejected an offer poten- offer. “Rose is seen as a man who statement said he would have in- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at tially worth up to 9 billion pounds, can deliver,” said David Cum- creased his cash-per-share offer additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. or $16.56 billion at current ex- ming, head of U.K. equities at to the high end of his proposed POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. change, from U.K. retail and real Standard Life Investments, price range if he found the con- FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR estate tycoon Philip Green. which has a 1.7 percent stake in tract “satisfactory.” DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Green’s Revival Acquisitions M&S. “Shareholders will back If Rose has his way, that due subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Ltd. said it would offer between him unless a bid comes in signifi- diligence will never be neces- correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, 2.90 pounds and 3.10 pounds, or cantly higher than the one cur- sary. The new ceo reiterated in please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully $5.34 to $5.70, in cash for every rently on offer.” the interview that he did not screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive M&S share, plus a 25 percent eq- But analysts had mixed reac- join M&S to sell the business. “I these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. uity stake in a new company to tions, with some believing it was want to concentrate on the im- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED be listed on the London Stock fair and others expecting Green portant things, to go back to MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Exchange. Six hours later, M&S to come back with a higher bid. Marks & Spencer’s heritage, and WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED said in a statement, “The board The market had been expecting offer quality, value, service and TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE considers that the proposal sig- Green to offer at least 4 pounds, innovation to our customers,” he ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. nificantly undervalues the group or $7.36, a share. said. “I think there is a lot of and its prospects, and therefore M&S shares fell 4.3 percent to residual goodwill on the part of rejects the proposal.” 3.5 pounds, or $6.44, after Green’s M&S customers, and we will A spokeswoman for Green announcement was released on only gain success by giving them In Brief had no comment, and did not say Thursday morning. The shares what they want.