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Home , Arbanija, Brela, Brist, Cista Provo, Croatian Maritime Museum, Dicmo

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Split Summer 2016

Island hideaways The coast’s best-kept secrets Dry Stone Centuries old stone

N°10 - complimentary copy Vintage Split split.inyourpocket.com And Its Outskirts Golden oldies caught on cam Contents

ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES

Foreword 4 Sightseeing 40 A zesty editorial to unfold Discover what we 've uncovered

Arrival & Getting Around 6 Dalmatian Zagora 46 SOS! Have no fear, SIYP is here Run to the hills

City Basics 10 Dry Stone Wall 48 Keepn it real Traditional form of construction

Croatia’s Secret Islands 11 Split Surroundings 49 Escape the crowds The top getaways

Culture & Events 14 Riviera 61 A pick 'n' list to brighten your stay All in a day

Split Pulse 21 Leisure 70 Piping hot tips Treasure some leisure

Restaurants 23 Shopping 71 We give you the bread 'n' butter of where to eat Priceless places and buys

Local Flavour 34 Hotels 77 Treat yourself or be treated The true meaning of “do not disturb” Coffee & Cakes 36 Maps “How's that sweet tooth?” City map 78-80 City centre map 81 Nightlife 38 County map 82 Are you ready to party?

Be introduced to some traditional ways of life from Dalmatian Zagora, see page 46, Photo by Dusina Ante Barbir, Tourist Board Archives

facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 3 Foreword Split is a summer hit with thousands of tourists flocking to this Adriatic seaside city.@InYourPocket In recent years, the awakening of Stay up-to-date newly opened restaurants, wine bars, events, exhibits, con- facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket certs and open air festivals have reinvigorated these ancient Publisher city walls. Speaking of open air festivals, ‘Ultra’ is set to smash Plava Ponistra d.o.o., ISSN 1846-856X all records with world classvine.co/inyourpocket DJs hallowing electronic stages for an entire week. Browse through our guide and within Company Office & Accounts Split Pulse discover what ‘Splićani’(locals) value as they give Višnja Arambašić What’s going on? away city secrets that only they know. The Restaurants sec- Split Infacebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 tion takes you on a culinary journey of top notch places [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com to wine and dine. You’ll see black and white photos that Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. reminisce to a different time and we’ve prepared a special Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja on ancient stone walls and traditional dry-wall construction Editorial Where’s the party? Editor Višnja Arambašić which dominates Mediterranean architecture today. See our Contributors facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jona- interview with Croatianyoutube.com/inyourpocket writer Olja Savičević Ivančević and than Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Niko- of course don’t forget the Shopping category with artistic la Badovinac, Roman Simić Bodrožić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac gifts for you and your family. Affordable Art too! A notable Assistant Editor Blanka Valić mention goes to Split’s surroundings and the breath-taking Community ManagerAll the Eli Gajinov latest news islands that oughtpinterest.com/inyourpocket to win you over with their untouched Design Bojan - Haron Markičević Photography facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated natural beauty. We wish you a super sizzler summer! Cover © Julije Mosettig, Bačvice

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov COverFull st contentsory online:Split [email protected] Summer 2016 ??city??.inyourpocket.com CopyrightRead notice more reviews online: Bačvice between two World Wars, by Text, maps??city??.inyourpocket.com and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps cop- Julije Mosettig. The photographs were yright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publica- taken during the summertime between tion may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the More ??chapter?? reviews online: purpose of review, without written permission from the publish- the two World Wars. The photos show er and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used how people??city??.inyourpocket.com spent their time on Split’s under license from NotUAB In listed Your Pocket here? (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Dry Stone Wall Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) In Your Pocket most famous beach Bačvice enjoying Centuries old stone walls Over 250 ??chapter?? reviews online: Vintage Split And is not responsible for any information which might change after N°10 - complimentary copy life, friendships and love, more than split.inyourpocket.com Its Outskirts Golden oldies caught eighty years ago. on cam publication.??city??.inyourpocket.com Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

ABOUT IYP

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading pub- lisher of locally-produced city guides sin- ESTONIA ce 1992, recently launched a brand new LATVIA RUSSIA smartphone app: In Your Pocket City NORTHERN LITHUANIA IRELAND Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked IRELAND BELARUS NETHERLANDS POLAND venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC have been carefully crafted by our lo- cal editors and include only the places SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA SLOVENIACROATIA they are happy to recommend. The BOSNIA BULGARIA app - available on both iOS and Android FYR MACEDONIA - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ GREECE app on your smartphone to download it.

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4 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Around

The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to takes about two and a half hours. On all fer- ries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.

Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, , Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for lo- cal catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line -Split-Hvar- can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, [email protected], www.jadrolinija.hr. June 3rd - July 1st Open 04:15 - 23:59. July 2nd - September 5th Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via , Hvar, Korčula and . Check sailing schedule here. QGat Sv , tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, ivana.tomic@ krilo.hr, www.krilo.hr. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 16:00, Fri 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30 - 20:00. J

MSC Krstarenja SplitPhoto Tourist by Višnja Board Arambašić Archives SNAV agent runs the Split- ferry line.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja. By boat com, www.msckrstarenja.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition Split Tours from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transporta- Blue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and Hvar- tion and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to Ancona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva). see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35 are just the customs officers that work at the office located 25 33, [email protected], www.splittours.hr. Open in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. A around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during By bus their working hours. Calling home: There are two public Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the sta- 00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along tion. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Tra- with the domestic and international ticket windows and jektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find a twenty-four hour service and the information desk op- the information you need. Make a left out of the port and erates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; con- operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the tinue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five window of the international ticket office list the interna- minutes. tional arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage Given its location in the middle of , Split serves as point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something street, the directions for getting around are the same as for like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Mo- the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the torcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn. Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away life vest. directly in front of the bus station. 6 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Around Arrival & Getting Around

Main bus station upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Autobusni kolodvor Split) women’s toilets. Tourist Information (Zone 4). Aside from zoned street parking, another option for If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Tourist Information Centre per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the return tickets usually require you to travel with the same Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso pri- QD‑3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be jevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, [email protected], maximum 10kn charge for the first hour and 15kn per hour travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock. will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness- trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at - 20:00. inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute Promet Split affect the length of your trip.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Doma‑ intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one- Tourist Information Centre QD‑2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, parking@ goja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 80, way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr. [email protected], www.ak-split.hr. prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights [email protected], www.visitsplit.com. and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. SMS Parking town for 30kn. There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes locat- By car ed at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 70 8211), From Zagreb -Kaštela (Zračna luka zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213) and zone So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the Split-Kaštela) Public transport 4 (yellow - 70 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on [email protected], www.split-airport.hr. 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running shown on the box (remember to include the international international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres Brač Airport line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a mes- long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from , purchased on the bus for 11kn or from Promet Split kiosks sage to remind you to refresh your lease or move your car. you of 174 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small air- near each bus stop for 9kn. If you’re trying to beat the system you’re getting close to Split, look for the exit and port started operations in 1993 and is open year round, and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and that’s that! with charter flights organized only during the summer. you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered Towed away The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car pre- From 100 passengers or fewer.QVeško Polje, , city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you viously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to tel. (+385-21) 55 97 11, [email protected], www. can catch buses for , Omiš, the airport, and other des- down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn’t heed do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and airport-brac.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 tinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split. - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Satur- been towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem, 20:00. days, and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car From Italy station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information impound at Pujanke bb (F-2), so you’ll need to shell out 750 Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 99. - 1350kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway By train the office is open around the clock.Qtel. (+385-21) 37 68 48. to and look for the signs that point to Fiume and The train station has very few amenities, save for the coin- Promet Split route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia operated storage lockers that can be accessed during QE‑1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, info@ The BRAČ foundation “ISLAND - somewhere the sea and stars” between Archives and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr. will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for get- Fishermen from Milna A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit ting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn Taxi labeled Dugopolje. will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you right turn will lead you to the old town and several pub- own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re with lic phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, By plane way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added per each Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but the train station. piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting. There is no quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people Main train station most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00. Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect port, at the main bus station and near the Riva. Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also takes about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Chang- a night train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from Parking ing currency: Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an Split at 21:43, there’s one more really handy service of- There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 - 5kn/ exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the fered at the train station. If you have a car and don’t feel hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 - 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 101kn, in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - (open according to flight times). There are public phones plus the price of a passenger ticket.QJ‑3, Obala kneza 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price. in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught with- Bathers on the beach Banj in Supetar point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, 25, [email protected], www.hzpp.hr. out a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might 8 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 9 City Basics Croatia’s Secret Islands Customs Smoking As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, 2013 there are no long- Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café er custom limits between member states or tax return. For culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does other non-member states we recommend you to follow mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish- info at www.porezna-uprava.hr. ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend- ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces Disabled travellers including restaurants where it has never been easy to find Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re pre- shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is pared to move inside. still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping cen- Visas tres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new Since Croatia has become a new member of the European buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there to pirate attacks you’ll find a 16th century , while expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered a hexagonal watchtower, the Toreta, a slender edifice most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter oth- from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hidea- with a spiral staircase tracing round the outside, testi- inquire about your destination in relation to these matters er EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. ways where you can find your own personal paradise. fies to the enduring love of a roving sailor for his love and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/em- back home. arrival as accessible as possible. bassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In ad- Since the hedonistic 1970s has had a loyal base dition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The you’ll happen across cute boutiques and low-key perfor- Electricity for multiple entries because of the border crossing through local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended mances. There’s a gallery of by Marija Ujević- The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the Bosnia and . If you cross the border without the with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even Galetović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia. visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it. things with the human form. cal appliances. In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for con- Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name valescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese with shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves Water architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First ideal for children. The waters are an unusually vivid tur- Money Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. World War halted and never really picked up quoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation. There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well again. Which means that the island remains utterly un- as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours spoilt. a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, When things go wrong Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being cov- Prvić but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly ered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kor- on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in lower than most of . Nevertheless, you should keep planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no nati National Park, neighbouring islands such as the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an roads, only sandy paths – you can pretty much go bare- and and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks in- amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as find- emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer- foot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well land. ing places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem. gency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settle- or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays it’s ments and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront fea- case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you a paradise for families with small children. There are no tures a striking onion-domed . There are lovely Public Toilets will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, con- hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment. bathing spots with views over the surrounding islands When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public tact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER Come summer you’ll find yourself joined by a host of and the mountains on the coast. Among the children toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good con- is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring. who have been lucky to spend their summers here was dition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the everything necessary will be done. In case of an car acci- Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island Faust Vrančić, known as the Croatian Leonardo da Vinci. Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H- dent call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architec- A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he 3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street accidents on the sea call 195. ture. Other visitors include women who come to bury was the inventor of the parachute and creator of the first (J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions around 4kn or 0.50€. to restore fertility. in the local museum. QR Code Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk cos- tume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely Roads This QR code contains the website address, one of the more intriguing Croatian islands! Šolta When behind the wheel drivers must always have their http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/ Just opposite the , Šolta is super easy to driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. split for Split In Your Pocket: and a user hav- get to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt ing a camera phone equipped with the Silba almost completely overlooked by tourists. All the bet- and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- correct reader software can scan this im- With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed ter for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian ref- hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in age of the QR Code causing the phone’s by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their uge from the passage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and Queen built her palace on the hillside at Senjska ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As the image and print it out any way you want. chapels, and romantic villas built by wealthy sea cap- cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Di- they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. Photo by Marša Gajinov tains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable ocletian of Split chose Nečujam to build fish farms. More 10 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 11 Croatia’s Secret Islands Croatia’s Secret Islands recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking Gifts for Hungry Island Pršut refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica Loved Ones To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind www.martinis-marchi.com that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beauti- laced with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why genera- ful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So tions of Krk islanders have prepared their own pršut. This is little marina (www.martinis-marchi.com). what better gift for those back home than something to a product that varies depending on the environment and Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, nibble? the recipe, so it’s different wherever you go. Try Krk pršut thought to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly at the Žužić butcher’s shop, Zagrebačka bb, Krk, tel. (+385- by experts. Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the in- Ground Wild Fennel 51) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00 terior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are The rocky plains of Dalmatia are covered in the grey stems - 21:00) or at Kuća krčkog pršuta at Bok od Brozića 40, Vrh, full of atmosphere. In Grohote you’ll find a gallery with and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasović Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98 (Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00, a permanent exhibition of work by famous artists that from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00). were born in Šolta. flavouring soups, salads, stews and dressings. Contact (+385-) 91 588 84 09, [email protected]. Salt Petals Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as The Elafiti Islands Grisinia they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Du- A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist defying brovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals expectations island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of a nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in from and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick times past had their summer homes here, lending the Ivan Motušić, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98. up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, islands echoes of the Renaissance. Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected Olive Leaf Tea shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus Koločep supporting a healthy heart and immune system. It’s a Macaroni Needles The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trip- traditional drink from the Croatian islands which you can One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cuisine pers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its pick up in Paška sirana cheese shops around the country or is goulash served with home-made pasta such as makaruni neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo on the island of in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj. Open na iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to produce an slen- Heritage hotel - Restaurant - Marina - Yacht charter each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00. der tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja bakery, Gundulićeva abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches 4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66 in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket The Captain’s Cookies 36 57, or during the summer at mobile bakeries in Novalja, Lipa Rugs to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water! Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on Mandra and Stara Novalja (Open 07:00 - 19:00). A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on using traditional island techniques from remnants of fab- their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at ric from manufacturing folk costumes. These rugs can be the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebić Deck Your Home With used to protect your table or can be scattered on the floor. For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, mon- (Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunović bakeries. Contact the Lipa folk costume workshop on Prvić island asteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park Contact: [email protected], tel. (+385-) 98 165 Croatian Goods at Ulica IX – 3, Prvić Šepurine, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84, right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boast- 07 77 Marija Antunović. Wool Slippers from Island [email protected]. Alternatively, if you’re in Šibenik ing fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Medulićev trg, or the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the instal- Pag and Brač Island Cheese gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the the souvenir shop at the Barone fortress. lation Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia, herb-scented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta Adjaye is housed. Architecture buffs might like to ex- with two factories supplying great cheese to the whole Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice is Stone Pestle and Mortar plore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Ho- country. Look out for the Paška sirarna and Gligora yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and - Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, there’s a tel. Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia brands. vironmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid 4a, timeless elegance to Brač stone. What better choice for a at Sunj bay. A handful of lovely stone villas have been Brač island cheese is exclusively sold locally. It’s not easy Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, [email protected], www. piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look turned into small hotels with excellent accommodation to get hold of a round of cheese as it’s a natural seasonal ruta-cres.hr. good, and they’re handy for crushing herbs and grind- and good restaurants. product made in small quantities. But it is well worth the ing spices. You can find them in the Dražen Jakšić’s L&D effort. Try the Kuzmanić family, Put Varoša 18, Supetar, Pag, Lepoglava and hvar Lace workshop at Put varoša 3, Supetar, Brač, tel. (+385-) 098 Brač, [email protected], tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98, The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepo- 907 04 68, [email protected], also in Split in the Šipan (+385-) 91 594 52 79. glava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of basement of Diocletian’s palace or at a stall in the centre The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands, lacemaking. Pag lace is made with needles alone. A certain of Korčula town. you can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a Lumblija visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected soul. Šipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 his- Lumblija is a sweet from Korčula island made from wine modernity – a framed piece of lace makes an authentic Kunjska spara toric summer villas. With two settlements this island has must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was ap- yet chic decoration. Lepoglava and Hvar lace is made on A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole a bus service! Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while parently the recipe of a French soldier who presented bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They Šipanska Luka (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no a cake to his island beloved on his departure with the plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery, Trg Petra were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and ferry service. Apart from stumbling over fascinating old words “n’oubliez” (“don’t forget!”). This was Croatianised Krešimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, [email protected] still do) carry on their heads on their return home from buildings, the pleasures of an island walk include taking as lumblija, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can com.hr, www.pag.hr. Open: Until June 20th 09:30 - 12:00 the fields. You can find them on Pašman island, contact in olive and fig, carob and vine… The island has a scattering order a cake from Mrs Vlašić, Obala 2, , Korčula, and by request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30 Marija Grdaš, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53 45, of pleasant smaller hotels and decent restaurants. [email protected], tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07. - 12:00, 20:00 - 22:30. [email protected]. 12 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 13 Culture & Events Culture & Events at times points out the absurdity of today; and as for the amenities made for man; a highly debated issue in our viewer, a chance to compare and reflect.QI‑2, Galić Art world today.QI/J‑3, The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr. www.hulu-split.hr.

20.06 Monday - 01.07 Friday 14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday Tihomir Matijević - Transheroica Đuro Seder - Retrospective exhibition or Sculptor Seeks a Hero Six decades of commitment to art and to in Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No it’s a group of Croatian politi- particular, Seder is known for his brush dynamism and cians adorned in superhero like outfits ready to always energy colours. He used expressionism and symbolism save the nation from eventual threat. with both extraordinary freedom and clarity, utilising his Matijević created these 4 impressive statues up to 6 me- experience that went beyond the limitations of the me- tres high and won an award at the 11th Croatian Sculp- dium. Split also has the right and obligation to learn more ture Triennial, 2012. Head to the Diocletian Palace’s Cel- about his exceptional art work.QD‑3, The Institute for lars for some superhero irony and action!QI/J‑3, The Scientific and Artistic Work in Split, Palača Milesi, Trg cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, www.hulu-split.hr. braće Radić 7, www.galerija-kula.hr.

JULY - SEPTEMBER Artists at Meštrović - Kažimir Hraste SPLIT FILM FESTIVAL The cycle of artists at the Meštrović Gallery continues with sculptor Kažimir Hraste. He is one of the founders 10.09 Saturday - 18.09 Sunday of the Art Academy in Split and has taken part in over Split Film Festival - International 100 exhibitions. Hraste is the author of numerous pub- Festival of New Film 2016 lic monuments, busts and around Croatia Film for avid fans, film with high demands! This and has received several national awards. festival promotes new, creative, personal, experi- Inspired by the call to be exhibited alongside Meštrović’s mental, radical and subversive works, styles and works, see this special part of his opus, worth every genres, commonly produced outside the commer- notice!QB‑3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović cialised mainstream, but of excellent standard and Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana achievement. It highly promotes Croatian film but Meštrovića 46/39, www.mestrovic.hr. also gives strong regard to international feature and short film, paying attention to directors who 01.07 Friday - 10.08 Wednesday explore the aesthetic potential of film. Dan Pjerovschi - The Split According to track record, several producers and Boris Bućan (Croatian Academic photographer, painter and graphic designer), 29th Split Summer Festival, HNK Split, 1983, Screen print, MSU Archives This Romanian artist gathers inspiration on site by directors who have appeared here in the past and touring a city, interviewing its people, exploring main- were lesser known have gone onto bigger and privileges, certificates and more. The contents will vary stream media, city buildings, installations, and com- brighter things. A stepping stone to glory! Two in- Exhibitions (, books, charts, ship models, marine items, uni- bines these to form the core of his artwork. Work that ternational juries will be given the arduous task of 26.04 Tuesday - 26.09 Monday forms...) and date from the 18th to 20th century.QK‑2, he deems as intellectual graffiti, almost cartoonish / choosing the winners. The Iron People on Wooden Ships Split, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe art-brut, yet with an artistic message and ten- Retrospectives, workshops, lectures, latest features This exhibition was opened on the 150th anniversary Fortress), www.hpms.hr. dency for humour.QJ‑2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava in newmedia and presentations by leading experts of the Battle of Vis, marking one of the most significant 10,Papaya www.galerija-kula.hr. always add value and a new dimension to visitors battles in the and is deeply etched in the 17.05 Tuesday - 17.06 Friday and presenters alike. 2016 is the 21st edition of memory of . In July 1866, an Italian fleet led by Ad- Julião Sarmento - As Good As It Gets 04.07 Monday - 18.07 Monday the event, the oldest international film and media miral Carlo Pellion attacked Vis, hoping to win this impor- A much sought after artist who will present his works at Halbart Vilim - Flying Boats manifestation in Croatia as such. It’s a great meeting tant strategic point; the heroism of the then Austrian fleet three venues and all at the same time. Sarmento deliber- Halbart presents a cycle of surreal sculptures with a point to network with people in the industry and to mostly filled with Croats defeated their better armed op- ates his themes via different media in the form of fine art, focus on ship building, a once known golden treasure form future projects and relations. The event will be ponents. The exhibit details the true heroes of the battle, sculpture, video and photos, fusing literature and cinema. in Croatia and now viewed as a dying trade, a tradition held across three city venues.QKaraman Cinema, how it reawakened a sense of Croatian identity, original The clichéd title of the exhibit is in direct contrast to the that capitalism has scrunched and thrown into the sea, Ilićev prolaz 3; Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, Dioklecijan‑ artefacts and more.QIssa Archaeological Collection, visual elements shown on screen with the ‘body’ used as an identity once proud, now fallen. ova 7; Bačvice Cinema, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, Viški boj 12, Vis; Croatian Maritime Museum Split, a primary subject.QKula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10; Most evident in his work is the recycling, transforma- www.splitfilmfestival.hr. Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), www.hpms.hr. The Institute for Scientific and Artistic Work in Split, tion and reinterpretation of discarded materials from Palača Milesi, Trg braće Radić 7; Museum of Fine Arts, shipyards.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, 05.05 Thursday - 31.08 Wednesday Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, www.galerija-kula.hr. www.hulu-split.hr. Ship logbooks and documents from the holdings 16.06 Thursday - 01.07 Friday 04.07 Monday - 15.07 Friday of the Croatian Maritime Museum Vedran Ivanković – Nicolo Sertorio - Once We Were Here Set sail and see valuable marine documentary material Pillars of Croatian Society An international exhibition by this American artist and and original printed ship manuscripts; log books and dia- Take a look at Croatian society from the perspective of photographer set in the Diocletian Cellars. Sertorio, ries which are among the Museum’s oldest manuscripts, Vedran Ivanković with his humour and cynicism. He cri- who is of Italian origin, reveals his photographs which and ship documents - lists of crews, books of supplies, tiques and questions, he outlines distorted values and speak of the relationship of man with nature and urban 14 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 15 Culture & Events Culture & Events

01.08 Monday - 12.08 Friday long. It actually starts on the 14th with the Opening Party 25.06 Saturday HDLU - The Edge of Painting or and of course the three day main event is at Split’s Poljud 6th Ethno Festival Border Areas Stadium, things don’t stop there with after party events. The town of Marina is 11km from Trogir, and in its In August 2016, HDLU Osijek will introduce to the Split Yep, it’s island hopping with the ‘Ultra Regatta’ on the northern village of Blizna Donja the townsfolk put on a audience their multimedia project in which their artists island of Brač on the 18th, then the ‘Ultra Beach Party’ on show of ethno culture, music and heritage. explore the concept of experimental art and thus abol- the island of Hvar on the 19th, and the ‘Ultra Resistance See the beauty of local costume that trace back to old ish the conventional boundaries between painting and Closing Party’ on the island of Vis on the 20th.QC‑1/2, times in which people still wear today on special oc- new media through installations, objects, paintings and Giraffe Palm Beach House, Poljud Stadium (Resis‑ casions, folklore songs and dances, and ojkanje which various forms of new media itself.QI/J‑3, The cellars of tance Opening Party and 3 days of Festival); Zlatni is an ancient form of singing which now placed on Diocletian’s Palace, www.hulu-split.hr. Rat Beach, Bol, Brač (Ultra Regatta); Hotel Amfora the UNESCO heritage list. It isn’t yodelling, but men Grand Beach Resort, Hvar (Ultra Beach); Fort George, who repeat specific sounds...QBlizna Donja, Marina, Vis (Resistance Closing Party), www.ultraeurope.com. www.tz-marina.hr. Special events Tickets 225 - 1500kn. 03.06 Friday - 11.06 Saturday 22.07 Friday - 24.07 Sunday Split Mediterranean Film Festival 21.07 Thursday - 23.07 Saturday Owl Festival Esma Redžepova, A Night’s Dream Archives For nine year straight, this festival of full-length and short Split Blues Festival Brand new to the summer calendar, welcome to Šolta, film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as Who’s got the blues! Split of course, ooze to the sound an island known for its ‘owl’ species which fittingly one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider of blues in one of the largest regional festivals of this titles the festival! Only 30 min by catamaran from Split, that screenings take place on the beach with the summer genre. As always, the event has a high level of produc- this 3 day event is a combo of electronic underground breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how tion and attracts some of the best Croatian and inter- house music and natural island beauty. It’s in a bay could it not? Bring a blanket!QBačvice Summer Cinema national musicians. Free admission!QD‑3, Riva, www. called Stomorska and includes beach bar Africa and (Preradovićevo šetalište 6), Kinoteka Zlatna vrata (Diok‑ splitbluesfestival.com. party boat St. Damian (120 capacity). Transportation lecijanova 7) and Split Art Gallery (Ulica kralja Tomislava and accommodation is all organised for you!QŠolta, 15), www.fmfs.hr. 27.07 Wednesday www.owlfestivalcro.com. Tickets 90 - 350kn. Iron Maiden – The Book of Souls 17.06 Friday - 17.07 Sunday Metal mania hits Split again this summer with one of the 22.07 Friday - 23.07 Saturday Revija Urbane Kulture – Evo Ruke! legends of British Metal appearing in Croatia for the ump- S.A.R.S. – Amateur Rock Meetup During the peak season and for one entire month, head teenth time. Their legion of fans will always be in good The old town of Sinj in the is the to Đardin at the Strossmayerov perivoj for a sense of ur- voice as the mighty Bruce Dickinson pounds out hits from setting for an annual festival of alternative culture and ban music and culture. From pop and hip-hop to jazz and their new album and of course classics. A surprise is pre- promotes amateur rock bands from entire Croatia. other genres, a plethora of top Croatian musicians and per- pared for visual effects, only 11,000 tickets available and Due to its popularity, it has grown into something much formers will deliver their melancholy / hypnotic / bumpy will be snapped up ASAP!QC‑1, Spaladium , Zrins‑ bigger with popular mainstream Croatian acts also per- /groovy sounds and feel to the streets.QJ‑2, Đardin - ko Frankopanska 211, www.spaladiumarena.hr. Concert forming. Side sparkles include book nights, film screen- Strossmayer Park, www.revija-urbane-kulture.com. starts at 19:30. Tickets 290 - 430kn. ings and workshops that accompany the festival. Stay Ultra Europe Archives Starts at 21:00 daily. tuned for line up details.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com. 04.08 Thursday - 06.08 Saturday 20.07 Wednesday - 02.08 Tuesday 05.07 Tuesday - 06.07 Wednesday Split Beach Festival Vanja Pagar - Noveslike A Sustipan Night’s Dream If last year’s edition is anything to go by, than this is one Kinoteka Zlatna vrata Academic painter Vanja Pagar will present his project Sustipan Park will for the fifth year in a row be the loca- bop till you drop spectacular music event. Organisers ‘Noveslike’. In this cycle, the artist’s view of easel paint- tion for this exclusive event. Organisers literally go all out have announced new even better musical surprises of 04.07 Monday - 30.07 Saturday ing can be seen, this time in the form of abstract expres- to recreate and evoke the atmosphere of Shakespeare’s electronic music and related genres for 2016, and when This isn’t your everyday cinema; ‘Zlatna vrata’ or sionism. Pagar investigates and nullifies the boundaries ‘Midnight Summer Dream’. Dance under the stars in two the sun dawns and the starry sky above Split’s Bačvice ‘Golden Door’ is one of the most beautiful cinemas in of classical fine art and new media through multimedia nights of hedonism with Esma Redžepova and The Frajle. Beach begins to shine, everyone is sure to find their ideal Croatia which is housed in the heart of the historical installations, objects and actions.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, QC‑3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com. Concerts act to watch and party to.QD‑3, Bačvice Beach, www. core of Split. The month of July offers guests a deeper Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr. start at 21:30. splitbeachfestival.com. insight into Croatian film with some of the best pro- ductions made over the last few years that have had 22.07 Friday - 05.08 Friday 14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday both national and international success. All films have Friends of the Sea – The Blue Hour The 62nd Split Summer Festival County events English subtitles and the exact schedule can be found For the seventh year running this moving exhibition is A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and 23.06 Thursday - 25.06 Saturday at web site. destined for 12 Croatian cities and is intended to attract music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Cultural Festival Imena/Bol Films: over one million visitors this summer. It’s a compila- Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian Na- If on the island of Brač and in the town of Bol in particu- The Priest’s Children, 2013, Vinko Brešan, 93 min tion of 60 large-format photographs taken during the tional Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, lar, pronounced as ‘bawl’, then become a true ‘Bročanin The High Sun, 2015, Dalibor Matanić, 123 min ‘blue hour’ i.e. early evening after sunset or early in the theatre and dance performances from Croatia and abroad. or Bročanka’ by attending ‘brunch’ or bolska marenda What is a Man without a Moustache? 2005, Hrvoje morning, just before dawn. Breath-taking scenes of the QVarious locations across Split, www.splitsko-ljeto.hr. Trudna Teća followed by literary promotions, exhibi- Hribar, 109 min Adriatic are set to inspire, admire, and unearth a desire tions, debates and concerts. A driving force of the event These Are the Rules, 2014, Ognjen Sviličić, 72 min of love and respect for one of the most beautiful coast- 14.07 Thursday - 20.07 Wednesday is the success of the book ‘Bračka marenda’ which is a Gangster of Love, 2013, Nebojša Slijepčević, 75 min- lines in the world. The works have been selected by the Ultra Europe Festival gastro-cultural guide of the island written in both Croa- QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 15 24, expert team of the festival ‘Rovinj-Photodays’.Qwww. Ohh yeah! The mighty summer dance spectacle just gets tian and English.QBol, Brač island, www.facebook.com/ [email protected], www.zlatnavrata.hr. prijateljimora.com. bigger and bigger with a week of music to party to all night ImenaBol. 16 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 17 Culture & Events Culture & Events

07.08 Sunday The Sinjska Alka is a famous equestrian competition held in Sinj every first Sunday in the month of August. Since 1715, it has been held to commemorate the victory over the Otto- man Turks. The horseman must aim their lances at a hang- ing metal ring, called an alka, at full gallop. Interestingly, only men who were born in the Sinjska , the city of Sinj or one of the surrounding villages, can take part in the competition. Proudly, in 2010, it was written in UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

07.08 Sunday - 11.08 Thursday The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counter- part to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town and its people transport back into the 17th century, see re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute stands in the way of love, ending in death.QKaštela, www. kastela-info.hr.

09.08 Tuesday - 14.08 Sunday Beaa de Visser Blowup, Split Film Festival Archives Goran Jeličić We can only speak in superlatives when it comes to Jeličić’s love for his birthplace Split; so much so that his paintings, 22.07 Friday - 23.07 Saturday drawing, graphics, photography and mosaics are almost en- World Music Festival Ethnoambient tirely inspired by the Mediterranean and distinctive coastal Olja Savičević Ivančević, Photo by Andrija Zelmanovic vistas of cities including Trogir and Dubrovnik. His works The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. have won awards and are permanent in some public spaces. Split’s literature scene story. I believe that there are enough people from for- This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world music QAtrium of Trogir City Museum, Gradska vrata 4, Trogir, eign countries around who are interested in learning really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in www.muzejgradatrogira.blogspot.hr. An interview with Olja Savičević Ivančević how people live here. combining traditional and contemporary music from their by Roman Simić Bodrožić countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with 10.08 Wednesday - 11.08 Thursday The world of literature has always had its fair share of greats Roman: Why a Western, and in particular why a spa- this musical celebration of cultural differences! Hear the Šakan Festival both present and past and in this modern age, there has ghetti Western? True, the path has been paved by the sounds of Pučki pivači Gospe od Otoka, Lidija Bajuk Quar- Named after a famous rock in the town of and pro- never been more of a need for great literature and mate- cameramen of the already mythical German series tet, Seckou Keita, Cinkuši, Dunja Knebl and Kololira, Tamara nounced as ‘shakan’, the festival is a magnet for lovers of rial that grasps the reader. IYP proudly introduces you to about Winnetou which was recorded decades ago, Obrovac Transhistria Ensemble and Kries.QGradina, , music with local and international artists performing close a star, and we aren’t talking show biz, but rather a star in but you have shown that a Western style life has al- www.ethnoambient.net. to the sea in an idyllic setting. So far the repertoire includes literature. Olja Savičević Ivančević (OSI) is a shining light ways existed in Dalmatia and is very much still alive the Lovely Quinces, Sara Renar, JR August, Igor Duraković, in contemporary Croatian literature at present, and judg- today. 31.07 Sunday Giant Sand, Mort, Spiridon, Cloud 68 and there’s more to ing by articles published in the Irish Times, the Guardian or Olja: In fact, the wild south-east does exist here, and West- Delmates vs Romans Football Match come.QPlateau in front of Hotel Soline, Brela. DieZeitu... her books have been noted not only in Croatia erns as a genre have imposed themselves quite naturally The idea of a football match between the Delmates (Illyr- but by the international literary audience. This lady from on their own. Spaghetti westerns or Italo-westerns are a ians) and the Romans is based on historical facts related to 11.08 Thursday - 13.08 Saturday Split (born 1974), an award-winning poet and novelist, who Mediterranean product with films that were mostly re- the tombstone of Gaius Laberius. It promotes the theory Brač Film Festival with her novel ‘Adios, Cowboy’, which is an offset spa- corded in Spain and primarily by Italians. There is also a about the origins of football in this area and is in fact a the- As soon as you jump off the ferry and onto the beautiful ghetti Western perched in the wild and set around Split’s sub-genre of the classic spaghetti Western which is called atrical performance of comic character, played by invented island of Brač, you’re in Supetar, home to this international surroundings, has won both recognition and awards with the Eastern, and they were recorded in countries of East- rules which are inspired by the spirit of ancient times. QSinj, film festival which consists of a main and side programme. this powerful story of Dalmatia that many are not aware of ern Europe. They were an important part of my childhood www.visitsinj.com. The main programme displays feature-length and short (and could certainly not learn of whilst being on holiday). and I played around following the rules of the genre whilst films with an award given to the latter as voted by the public. writing a contemporary story of Dalmatia, a story primarily 04.08 Thursday - 06.08 Saturday QSupetar, www.bracfilmfestival.hr. Roman: For starters, in your first novel, you freed Dal- about women and about lost childhood heroes. Voi’Sa Festival matia of a fair portion of its general landmarks; some ‘Get down, get down and move it all around’ to some soul, 11.08 Thursday - 13.08 Saturday would even say that you freed it of something that Roman: The place where your novel is set is located boogie, and hip hop music. Featuring DJ Vadim accompa- Moondance Festival people love most about Split and why they would only twenty kilometres from Split yet appears to nied by DJ The Reflex, Eddy Ramich, Tomo Ricov, Jakir’s, Ba- Reach to the sky, see the sea, the starry night and dance un- even visit it at all. What was it like to wrestle the truth be thousands of light years away from the city, as if nana Zvuk and many more this party should not be missed. der the moonlight. Welcome to the 4th edition of this grand of so many songs, tourist guides and so many stereo- it were an island. But what of the real islands? You QSupetar, Brač, www.voisafestival.com. Afternoon electronic music festival, headliners include Jeff Mills, Josh types, some of which, as usual, are accurate? wrote about them also, as in the recently awarded programme 15:00 - 21:00, evening programme 22:00 - Wink, John Heckle and The Story Tellers.QKamerlengo Olja: I hope that I somewhat evoked that beauty that piece for children - you are happy whilst dwelling on 05:00. Tickets 60 - 160kn. Fortress, Trogir, www.moondancefest.com. truly exists, yet I also described the hidden side of the them, exploring them. They are some kind of periph- 18 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 19 Culture & Events Split Pulse erals where life is totally different and far from the idyllic life when they are not right before our eyes? CINEMAS Olja: The place that I described is partly invented, and part- ly inspired by Kašteli, Vranjice... these are places in the vicin- Cineplexx City Center one Split ity of Split, which in some way, at least in their old towns, QF‑2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 65 11 11, www. are still reminiscent of the island towns. cineplexx.hr. I fell in love with the islands through sailing as I have sailed from a young age, sailing has been my doorway to seeing CineStar We asked locals - who live or work in Split most of the bays in the Adriatic Sea. A desire to return again QD‑2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel. (+385-) - to give us a few tips on how to enrich and again to these places and discover the new ones is one 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. your stay in this city and make it that bit of my most enduring and powerful emotional experiences, more interesting. whilst in winter I dream about sailing. I have a small boat Karaman that is also my home and adventure at sea. QI‑2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58 33, www. ekran.hr. Roman: Which one of our islands do you feel to be yours and why? Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino Olja: Korčula is my island as I know it very well and I am Bačvice) connected to Korčula through my family ties. It is there that QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 I spend my summers, but I also visit in winter and I know 86 76, www.ekran.hr. Open July, August. the harsher side of the island, its solitude and isolation. That is what I wrote about. Roman: My impression as an occasional visitor to Split is that it has greatly changed in recent years, Roman: Your new novel which is coming out soon even more so than other Dalmatian towns. You live in touches on your central topic, the city of Split. What Split: is this observation true? And if so, what it is like kind of a city is Split? How would you describe it to a now? What are the pros and cons? Dvor Archives foreigner? Olja: Split has become a favoured tourist destination. On Olja: The new novel ‘Singer in the Night’ describes one the plus side the city is much more stylish and neater. and openness starting from the early morning vegetable specific part of Split, the settlement of large buildings and The minus is that because of the building of new apart- Daniel Grbić market on the Riva, then along to Marmont street and up skyscrapers that were built in socialism. It was an attempt ments, the old parts of the city are dying and the true to the fish market, gives you an image of Split like it re- to make urban city planning tailored to fit the people, to appeal of Split lies exactly in the authenticity of everyday Financial Manager at Affidea Company ally is. Also, you should definitely go see a football match respect public space that nowadays no longer exists. That life. This is a city of common folk and by losing the traces played by the local club, “Hajduk”. The club represents the part of Split has not yet been touched by the raging tran- of its ordinary life, it will lose its best part and that is what SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or city so much more than any foreigner can imagine. Locals sitional capitalism that poses as a threat to them. I think makes it more interesting to tourists than other cities. go out at night? don’t cheer for the club, they live for the club. districts such as Split 3, Trstenik, Mertojak, Spinut and oth- Daniel: Recently it’s been “Dvor”. It’s a newly opened A walk through Marjan or any number of activities you can ers in today’s time are urban centres of the city. I am not Roman: Which three places in Split mean the most cafe-restaurant at a beautiful location in Firule bay. It’s a do in the sea: water polo, swimming, sailing… saying this because I feel some nostalgia, I was not raised in to Olja, the writer? great place to have fun drinking a cup of coffee or enjoy- those districts, but one must learn from such kind of urban Olja: Marjan and Spinut where I live - my boat is also in ing any traditional specialties. I prefer drinking my coffee SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? planning for it shows concern and love for the city, which is the small Spinut harbour; it’s the folk, the fishermen’s before noon when during the calming morning you can Daniel: I’m not the kind of guy who likes shopping. I buy opposite to the grapples that prevail today. ‘old districts’ of Matejuška and Varoš since I used to pass feel the relaxed atmosphere of the Mediterranean. things when necessary from a shopping mall where you through them every day for fifteen years and they re- have everything in one place. City Centar One? Sure. mind me of all those small towns that people like; the SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split? Photo Club Split market and fish market - the tastes, the smell, the loud- Daniel: Definitely the southern side of Marjan. Near St. Je- SIYP: What do you recommend as a souvenir from ness, the bustle, the dynamics of it all. rome’s church built in the second half of the 15th century Split? When a picture says a thousand words, when a pho- is a hermitage cave where St. is supposed to have Daniel: There are three things that Split is known for: tographer catches a moment in time that leaves a last- Roman: I know you love to travel, but how do you stayed. It’s peaceful, quiet, it has a view of the entire Brač Diocletian’s palace with St. Duje’s cathedral, Marjan, and ing memory, this is the entire purpose of Split’s Photo travel? Which means of transportation do you use, channel, and along with plenty of fragrant mediterranean Hajduk. You can’t go wrong if you get something repre- Club. People passionate about photography, playing which books do you read, with whom and where do plants, you get the feeling you’re in a secluded little para- senting one of the three things I just mentioned. with it, manipulating, exploring… Opened in 1911 and you travel? dise and not merely one kilometre from the bustle of the has since stood the test of time. This summer will bring Olja: I like to travel by boat or car, so I have freedom of city. SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recom- together several well-known Croatian photographer’s movement whenever needed and in whatever direction mend as a “must-try” for visitors? on a monthly basis; In June, Fjodor Klarić presents his I choose to go. SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which Daniel: Grilled fish seasoned with olive oil. After that… exhibit ‘Hajduk Supporters – The twelfth player’, July Most often I travel with my family or other writers (when activities do you recommend? Dalmatian pašticada which is a silverside of beef covered sees Stephan Lupino exemplify his all-round passion we go to festivals). I also love big cities and as I am get- Daniel: Split is a city of contrasts and extremes — it’s a in various spices and prepared in red wine. It’s clearly for photography whilst Goran Leš gives us a birds eye ting older, I am becoming increasingly attracted to ex- city where everything is allowed and everything is pos- one of the best meat dishes available in Split. Dalmatian view of Split and the Adriatic.QI‑2, Marmontova 5, ploring nature, drifting away from the large residential sible. Here, the streets and squares have retained their prosciutto and cheese is also a must. Fritters made from tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, [email protected], www. areas. It is interesting that whilst at home I more often true purpose and people loudly and openly show their homemade dough, brandy, raisins, and cooked in hot fotoklubsplit.hr. Open 10:30 - 12:30 and 18:30 - 22:00, read poetry and short fiction, whereas whilst traveling true feelings. Split is a Mediterranean city as it should be: oil. Also, paradižet a desert made with biscuits and egg Sat 10:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. and especially on board, I love to read big novels, and noisy, direct, witty, sardonic, lilt and playful. The city is best whites. Soparnik a local specialty from the Omiš hinter- endless stories. acquainted through its people. A walk filled with curiosity land, made from pastry, swiss chard and garlic. 20 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 21 Split Pulse RestaurantsSplit Pulse Team 4coffee soul food

Dado Rimac, Vojko Markić, Joni Ulla and Nikola Besednik

SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night? Team 4coffee soul food: We are not very objective when it comes to that question, because we are very much tied to our specialty coffees which we roast our- selves. Therefore, we prefer to make some coffee with our chemex filter and drink it somewhere in nature. NoStress Bistro Archives And as far as going out at night, the starting point is Academia club Ghetto. They have an excellent evening program featuring local DJ’s and a hypnotizing interior. The people who go there always have good vibes and positive energy.

SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split? Team 4coffee soul food: We love active holidays and activities that bring us together with nature. For that, I must mention the Turkish tower park, which recently got a new look thanks to volunteers from Split. There’s lots to do there for those who like being active. Also Šantine is great for free-climbing. Sustipan is an ex- cellent place for a picnic, especially if you’re there with Konoba Ma:Toni Archives the members of KAM HRAM, who do acrobatic perfor- mances on silk ropes as well as juggling. One of the best things in life for many are the places where Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13, [email protected]. Soparnik, Tourist Board Archives SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? you can drink and eat well. Diocletian’s City has finally wok- Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn). Which activities do you recommend? en up in gastronomy. All those who favor iće & piće have P ­i ­T ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W Team 4coffee soul food: Along with the growth of the opportunity to try some fine dining restaurants, bras- Dinko Božanić tourism, the number of tourist agencies that offer top- series and bistros, as well as traditional Dalmatian taverns. Grego Levante quality tours of the city of Split has also grown. We would Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an origi- Senior Assistant at the Split Academy of Art gladly entrust anyone in their capable hands, because as nal stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside, (UMAS) in the Film department, author of the locals we had the opportunity to take a tour of the city Croatian the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of fresh- exhibition ‘Forgotten Faces of Komiža’, for more with a guide and we were surprised with all the new in- Bajamonti ness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish see page 58 formation and history that we had missed. Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in is A+.QD‑3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22, SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What 1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time. [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (60 go out at night? do you recommend as a souvenir from Split for Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediter- - 130kn). P ­J ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­W Dinko: Coffee at Vjeko’s on the Riva and Judino Drvo for someone to take home? ranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster going out. Team 4coffee soul food: If you’re going to spend your of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate Ma:toni money, spend it wisely. The small specialized shops in- each of the tables based on the season and they also hold This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an ​SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split? side Diocletian’s palace sell unique handmade products various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC‑3, Trg arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark Dinko: Marjan. by talented artists and craftsmen. Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, bajamonti.split@ wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle They spread love and positive energy by keeping quality gmail.com, www.restoran-bajamonti.hr. Open 08:00 Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterra- SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which and customer satisfaction in first place! - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (75 - nean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with activities do you recommend? 350kn). P ­i ­T ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W a contemporary twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. Dinko: Walking. SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recom- (+385-21) 27 84 57, [email protected], www.ma-toni. mend as a “must-try” for visitors? Dvor com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do Team 4coffee soul food: The always fresh selection of Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 150kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­ you recommend as a souvenir from Split? fish at Konoba Matejuška, and Barba beer at Split’s craft for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls G ­B ­W Dinko: Diocletian’s palace cellars - handmade fish made brewery LAB. and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and out of wood or metal by Ivan Bogdanović Goli. purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place. Pikulece SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recom- twitter.com/ Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as deli- For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas mend as a “must-try” for visitors? cious desserts such as tiramisu and maraskina, made with bar and restaurant, where you can savour excellent fla- Dinko: Various local chocolates from Nadalina. inyourpocket cream chocolate and maraschino cherry liqueur.QE‑3, Put vours in a variety of meat and fish dishes, such as mus- 22 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 23 Restaurants Restaurants

sels, octopus ispod peke, as well as tasty bruschetta and Uje Oil Bar quiche. The cozy wooden atmosphere and beautifully Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croa- presented food will leave you with a satisfied gastro- tian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a nomic experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 6, tel. (+385-) menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingre- 095 200 80 08, [email protected], www.uje.hr. dients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t change UBLIKE Open 18:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). P ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­ is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly

TRG REP B ­W amazing culinary experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 3, tel. “Prokurative” (+385-) 095 200 80 08, [email protected], www. Trattoria Tinel uje.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (60 - Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among 120kn). P ­i ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­W the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and cre- “Riva” denza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a Villa Spiza great place to eat when you’re not sure what you’re Located by Diocletian’s palace, Villa Spizza offers fresh in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of homemade food that is prepared right in front of you. choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken, mixed This small and cozy restaurant offers a simple, yet varied vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of fish or menu, with vegetable soup, risotto and pasta dishes, such fish restaurant cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyed for starters. Tor- as pasta with prawns or risotto with sea shells, as well as tellini with four cheeses, homemade gnocchi with to- rump steak and lamb chops. They offer a daily selection mato and basil sauce, green pasta with salmon or veal of new traditional Dalmatian dishes made using only sea- SEA FOOD | CROATIAN WINES | MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main sonal fresh ingredients.QI‑2, Kružićeva 3, tel. (+385-) course.QH‑2, Tomića Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97, 091 152 12 49, [email protected]. Open 09:00 [email protected], www.trattoria-tinel.com. Open - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). P ­T ­J ­6 ­N ­G ­ 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W B ­W Trg Republike 1, Split [email protected] ethnic International Aci Grašo www.restoran-bajamonti.hr Biser Orijenta With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The ACI Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try location is a little odd since the restaruant is situ- any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. ated on the fifth floor of one of the bussines build- Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit Augubio Congo cake are like tasting heaven in a bowl.QJ‑3/K‑3, Šegvića ings in Split, but the interior is perfecto and the view the cigar bar. Parking is free.QC‑3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. Hidden in a beautiful courtyard inside the Diocletian’s Pal- 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 84 09, [email protected], www. makes up for all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the (+385-21) 39 85 60, [email protected], ace, the ethos behind this restaurant is creative flair with bistrotoc.com. Open 07:00 - 23:30. (50 - 130kn). P ­i ­ Đardin Park.QD‑2, Bihaćka 2a, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 www.adriaticgraso.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - seasonal ingredients. Pasta is always popular as is seafood A ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W 76, www.biser-orijenta.com. Open 11:30- 24:00. 250kn). P ­A ­G ­B ­W and steak. Care is taken with service and presentation. On (25 - 125kn). P ­A ­6 ­B ­X ­W top of all that, the interior has an elegant blend of ancient Boban Adriana roman ruins decked with modern furniture.QJ‑2, Diokleci‑ The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful Bistro Samurai This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a janova 1, tel. (+385-) 099 323 96 71, [email protected]. settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with Conveniently situated in the city centre and just crowd. Why? It’s a prime location for people watching Open 10:00 - 24:00. (110 - 260kn). traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends Bistro Mazzgoon does it all, and does it well.QE‑3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. one can expect the complete Japanese experience in and sometimes on weekdays during summer time. Fairly Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the (+385-21) 54 33 00, [email protected], www. food, dining and culture.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića priced!QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery and restaurant-boban.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). 1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, [email protected], tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, [email protected], www.hotel- fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and calm- P ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W www.sushibarsplit.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun adriana.com/restaurant/. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (75 - ing atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes are of- 17:00 - 23:00. (22 - 75kn). P ­A ­G ­W 160kn). P ­i ­J ­A ­G ­B ­W fered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried tomatoes, Bokeria & Wine as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your mouth Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired Kebap & Meze bar Istah Apetit water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987 77 80, by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and East meets west with a tasty selection of meze, Turk- Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 01:00. (80 - 150kn). classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls, which ish delicacies and kebabs to be had - Halal certified! modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the P ­i ­A ­6 ­E ­G ­X ­W are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a mosaic Food is not the only attraction with authentic Turk- first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beauti- tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A massive ish tea and coffee on the menu. Positioned outside ful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green Bistro Toć chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the middle of of the city centre and near the Poljud pools, this bar colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian Curl up among the greenery and stone walls of this cozy the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant of- has a relaxed and cosy atmosphere as well as a mini classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just little terrace, decorated with sailboat pictures and hang- fers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu is decided terrace.QC‑1, Put Supavla 1, tel. (+385-21) 38 06 40, a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian ing plants. Offers a vegetarian menu, such as grilled tofu based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s lo- [email protected], www.istah.hr. Open 12:00 - 20:00, choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass.QI‑2, salad, grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti cated near Split’s market, which ensures that the ingredients Fri 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07 with salsa. For meat lovers, chicken spaghetti, gulaš and are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 20:00. (26 - 59kn). P ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W 36, [email protected], www.apetit-split.hr. Open sarma, is also available. To quench your thirst, sip on a fruit 77, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). P ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­X ­W smoothie or fresh juice. For dessert, a snickers or jaffa cookie - 02:00. (100 - 200kn). P ­i ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W 24 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 25 Restaurants Restaurants

Brasserie on 7 NoStress Bistro Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bis- the Adriatic Sea, French gastronomy is combined with tro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots that Croatian cuisine to create some delicious dishes through- adorn the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic out the day. Breakfast includes French toast, eggs bene- feel. It’s a great spot to chat with some friends or view dict, croissants, omelette, your typical English style break- the latest fashion trends walking by the square while fast, and muesli with apple and yoghurt. Early birds can nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely in- waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch and dinner specialties fluenced from the Istrian region. For your first meal of include spinach and octopus salad, mussels, cheese plat- the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 - 11:30) consists of ters, tuna steak and the Catch of the Day are just some of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot cappuccino. the appetising Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on diced toma- hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82 toes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef fillet steak 33, [email protected], www.brasserieon7.com. with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season, Open 08:00 - 01:00. (40 - 200kn). P ­i ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­ it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a G ­B ­X ­W cocktail at night.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88, [email protected], www. Cardo bistro-nostress.com/. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. (80 - 220kn). i ­J ­ by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine A ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the Paradigma wallet and is sure to please.QJ‑1, Domovinskog rata 49a This modern restaurant, which features Mediterranean (Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel- dishes, offers contemporary Dalmatian cuisine made with atrium.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). P ­i ­A ­ a flair. By using local flavours mixed with fresh ingredients G ­B ­X ­W inspired from Greece, Southern Italy, Provence and Spain, they have revolutionized gastronomy in Split. They offer Duje exquisitely presented seashells, fish and meat with sea- This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports rec- sonal vegetables. Sip from a bottle of local or international reation centre - Koteks. It’s a classic family eatery with a wine from a Connoisseur’s List of the finest high-quality predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines. old and new world wines while overlooking the crystal QD‑2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81 00, mail@ blue waters and savouring a delicious meal from their pri- (+385-21) 35 51 35, [email protected], www. Noštromo restoranduje.hr, www.restoranduje.hr. Open 10:00 - vate rooftop created in the shape of a cruise ship’s bow. A zinfandelfoodandwinebar.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P ­A ­L ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W simple and calm environment decorated in soft blue tones Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (120 - 160kn). P ­i ­J ­A ­6 ­E ­G ­ seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo creates a relaxing atmosphere to dine in. They are striv- B ­X ­W is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area Kadena ing for a Michelin star and are a proud member of Jeunes and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of din- Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Restaurateurs d’Europe.QI‑2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 3, Zrno soli ing here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlook- tel. (+385-21) 64 51 03, [email protected], www. This restaurant has class written all over it. It is stylish ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists. ing the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze restoranparadigma.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (95 - 220kn). both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@ across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena P ­T ­J ­A ­G ­B ­W lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restoran-nostromo.hr. is just one of the many delights on offer.QE‑3, Ivana pl. the service is second to none and if you do not mind Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­W Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, Perivoj forking out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what [email protected], www.restorankadena.com. Looking for a little oasis inside a very busy city, then Res- you pay for. Quality all-round!QC‑2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. Posejdon Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (120 - 170kn). taurant Perivoj is a great escape and even has a fountain (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 561 22 84, zrnosoli. Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dal- P ­A ­6 ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W and garden to treasure. Their desserts are city famous and [email protected], www.zrnosoli.eu. Open 08:00 - matian specialties, and this is of no exception with an as- the range of entrees and mains are well thought out; beef, 01:00. (80-120kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W sortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer. It’s Marshal lamb, octopus, Dalmatian paella, brioche with anchovies located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and pictur- and more. The wine selection is vast with friendly service to esque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all top it off. Enjoy Perivoj! QD-2, Slavićeva 44, tel.(+385-21) Seafood rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast com- 78 58 75, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Mistral bakery bo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, (68 - 160kn) P ­i ­­A ­­E ­G ­B ­X ­W Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experi- such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Break- ence with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over Kruščić fast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, Zinfandel’s food & wine bar two decks. The bar is literally on the beach and packs Are you picky about bread? Then just above the they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be refreshments of every sort imaginable. If you’re peck- fish market sits a bread shop which serves baked well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a per- both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks ex- ish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on bread without additives. They are also famous for fect end to any meal, try a delicious slice of cheesecake quisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the the grill, plus other delicacies.QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19 replicating a type of Roman bread made of wheat, or rožata.QI‑2, Zadarska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+385- hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine (Radisson Blu Resort, Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, goat cheese and honey.QI‑2, Obrov 6, tel. (+385-) 21) 30 80 60, [email protected], www. and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/ 099 261 23 45, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - marmonthotel.com/restoran. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (100 and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little al- resort-split. Open 12:00 - 18:00. (80 - 200kn). T ­A ­ 14:00. Closed Sun. J ­N - 150kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W ley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 2, tel. 6 ­L ­B ­X ­W 26 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 27 Restaurants Restaurants

when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ (under the clock tower) sim- selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive ply turn right.QI‑2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49, portionsQI‑2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 www.restoranposejdon.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 32. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (43 - 150kn). 200kn). P ­i ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­W P ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W

Stellon Gušt Stellon’s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine. You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the depart- contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings ment store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. Af- for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat dur- ter 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again. There ing the summer!QD‑3, Uvala Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21) you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable 48 92 00, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ‑1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (70 - 120kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­B ­W 48 63 33, [email protected], www.pizzeria- gust.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 57kn). Pizza P ­A ­6 ­G ­W Galija Lučica The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the ain’t bad, actually it’s quite good. It’s located at the Spinut bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan.QB‑2, Lučica 7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63, fax (+385-21) 38 67 59, info@ restoranlucica.com, www.restoranlucica.com. Open 08:00 - 23:30. (50 - 100kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­B ­ X ­W

Maslina A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 Fife the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making 88, [email protected], www.konobapizzeriamaslina. Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant.QC‑3, Uvala Bal‑ hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular uni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00, restoran.jugo@gmail. 150kn). P ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­W meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and com, www.restoranjugo.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 120kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­L ­E ­G ­ Velo misto No 1 fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and B ­W Located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish wood-fire pizza. Velo Misto by the way, was the name and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popular- Kod Joze of a popular TV series with performances by top Split ity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with abso- theatre thespians.QC‑2, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38 the place so much in recent years that it can be diffi- lutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to 47 77, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 24:00, cult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season. make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­V ­ QH‑3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23, woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is G ­B ­X ­W [email protected]. Open 06:00 - 24:00. (45 - 65kn). done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and P ­i ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ‑2, Sredmanuška 4, Marenda Hvaranin tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97/(+385-21) 34 82 54. Open 10:00 If you end up at some tavern and if you see that at one of To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a ko- - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). P ­A ­6 ­ the tables sits a group that at the same moment are talk- noba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once G ­B ­W ing loudly and are chewing a mouthful of delicious food, spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception do not be afraid - they are only eating marenda! Marenda as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white Konoba Leut has always taken place somewhere between ten o’clock risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it in the morning and noon. By 10:00 - 12:00, the working made rakija.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dal- class would have starved a hundred times, and when this 667 58 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (100 - matian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with hunger is combined with Mediterranean casualness, then 150kn). P ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual you can enjoy. You can still eat everything at this meal - variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad from tripe and pašta fažol (Dalmatian beans with pasta), Jugo beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - to polpeta u šugu (meatballs and sauce) and manistra Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite. Q Photo by Višnja Arambašić usuvo (spaghetti and meat sauce), to boiled meat and your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with H‑2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. Open fried sardines and even veal shank. magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­W 28 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 29 Restaurants Restaurants

Konoba Nevera Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a fast food nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman stat- ue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gor- Kantun Paulina geous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, place for when you’re in the mood for - namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and food cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad this little stand on the corner serves them up right. and grilled fish.QE‑3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36/ There’s no seating available but you can park it on a (+385-) 099 501 74 85. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). bench at the street and watch the night-time drama P ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (18 - 35kn). Konoba Varoš P ­N ­G ­B ­W It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem Rizzo ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck Another player in the local snack game along with into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a with locals and the wine list is endless.QH‑2, Ban Mladeno‑ mid-day or midnight snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel. va 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros. (+385-21) 34 83 49/(+385-) 091 574 07 64, www. com, www.konobavaros.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 120kn). P ­A ­G ­B ­W 24:00. (8 - 20kn). N ­B ­W

Oštarija u Viđakovi With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, catering@ is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional pimpinella.hr, www.pimpinella.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00, fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (48 - 70kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dish- Šperun es if you’re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the ing. Thereafter, they serve all kinds of dishes, such as fish & QI‑2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 21, tel. (+385-) 091 558 40 gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paint- chips, sandwiches, fish burgers, salads and omelettes. To 12, [email protected], www.reginadelformaggio. and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things ings. The daily special is often a good bet.QH‑2, Šperun satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a warm croissants or a de- com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (30 - 80kn). P ­i ­T ­J ­A ­ cosy wherever you choose to .QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliter‑ 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99/(+385-) 091 555 42 62, licious piece of pie. The green wooden tables and chairs, G ­B ­X ­W na 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27, www. [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (35 - surrounded by small potted trees decorating the outdoor ostarijauvidjakovi.eu. Open 08:30 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). 180kn). P ­i ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W terrace, give an earthy green peace feel to the place.QI‑2, Toto’s Burger Bar P ­i ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, bepasplit1@gmail. A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original Zlatna ribica com, www.bepa.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - and innovative sorts can be had; the meat and veggies are Pimpinella Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serv- 02:00. (40 - 200kn). P ­i ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­W exclusively purchased from local family farms. Spaghetti, A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family ing scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and soups, juices and salads are also on the menu! Their break- house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and Corto Maltese Freestyle Food fast and dessert offer has just been released, lots of oat- lamb with vegetables and much more.QE‑3, Spinčićeva 2a, camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick walls meal/muesli & yoghurt cups, truffles as well as sugar and 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like setting gluten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385- 06:00 - 22:00. (35 - 60kn). P ­N ­G ­W thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on offer. You 21) 31 40 40, [email protected]. Open 07:30 can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and - 24:00. (12 - 57kn). P ­i ­6 ­N ­S ­W sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone’s Street Food taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day (08:00 - 12:00) The street food restaurant’s priority is that the food tastes there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as Vegetarian good and some dishes are made using local products. well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese and freshly Galerija Food They offer everything from meat, soup, seafood and veg- squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/ Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing etables to smaller authentic Dalmatian cuisine. Last but (+385-) 092 160 10 00, [email protected], www. reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based not least, you can eat a meal that is not that expensive. cortomaltese.rocks. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which P ­i ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W are all purchased directly from local farmers. Healthy meals Bepa at top deals! The menu is seasonal and adapted to what Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming La Regina del Formaggio is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and onus is fast food restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal with A beautifully decorated deli store and snack bar located in placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash of retro omelettes, top notch English breakfast, croissants served the heart of Split where you can savour Italian and Croa- interior, small terrace too.QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) NoStress Bistro Archives with sweet side dishes, and various burgers and sand- tian delicacies, such as high-quality wines and cheeses, 099 939 54 18, [email protected]. Open 08:00 wiches to choose from between 07:00 - 11:30 in the morn- as well as Italian craft beer, exotic salads and sandwiches. - 24:00. (70 - 220kn). P ­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­W 30 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 31 Restaurants Restaurants

Makrovega If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg… wine bar you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar or organic.QI‑2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40, This wine and cheese bar has ‘Dalmatia’ writ- [email protected], www.makrovega.hr. ten all over it with over 100 wines. Representing Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 - the diversity and quality of wines in this region, 60kn). P ­i ­6 ­V ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W 50 wines are available to try by the glass. As well, they offer about 20 artisan cheeses that are pri- Up Café marily produced locally. You can pick and choose An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural whatever suits your taste buds as you relax in their beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredi- cozy interior space with stonewalls set against elm ents, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast and oak furniture. They have an extremely friendly which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, staff, many of which hold wine qualifications. They pies, buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal. This healthy also have been mentioned in numerous national cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such and international publications for their high- as tofu burritos, sushi, miso soup, hemp burgers and quality products and service.QI‑1, Poljana Tina baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets Ujevića 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 58 54, paradox.bar@ to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raf- paradox.hr, www.paradox.hr/bar. Open 09:00 - faello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (75 - 110kn). P ­J ­A ­ taste great along with Bazara arabic coffee, bio-fruit juice 6 ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W or organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www. upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. (15 - 45kn). P ­i ­6 ­V ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W by the large terrace and breathtaking views of nearby is- lands. All dishes are based on traditional recipes, handed down generation to generation, and served with the Out of town best wines from local Dalmatian wine cellars. Baletna škola Service is warm and you don’t feel like another num- Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from ber, but rather as a valued customer.QStaro selo Je‑ the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car. senice 11, tel. (+385-) 095 574 66 00, antetomas57@ Zrno Soli Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which gmail.com, www.bajso.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00. (70 was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now - 250kn). A ­L ­B ­W RESTAURANT renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalma- tian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or Konoba Nikola meat, which can be savoured while listening to tradi- A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have cre- tional music.QDon Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kam‑ ated a comfortable and homey environment, adorned belovac, tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, fax (+385-21) 22 04 with nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy 14, [email protected], www.restoran- a delicious Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals baletnaskola.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn). combining traditional local cuisine with contemporary Uvala Baluni 8 (ACI marine), Split P ­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W twists, using predominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Res- ervations are recommended.QIvankova 42, tel. (+385- T + 385 21 399 333 Konoba Bajso 21) 32 62 35, [email protected]. Open 12:00 Healthy Mediterranean cuisine Located in the village Staro selo Jesenice, the restaurant - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (60 - 300kn). P ­T ­ M +385 91 434 30 50 is only 15 minutes away from Omiš, and they also offer A ­6 ­L ­G ­X ­W presented in a modern way E-mail: zrnosoli.split@ mail.com local pick up for guests. Upon arrival, you’ll be dazzled Restaurant & Wine bar Matrioška www.zrnosoli.eu Service and advice all at the right price! This restaurant and wine bar edges its competition by far with outstand- Facebook: Zrno.Soli.Split SYMBOL key ing Croatian and international dishes including sea food, Insta ram: zrnosoli, be_julija meat and pasta on the menu; and all prepared with flair P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted and precision. As for wine, the staff is knowledgeable and the wine list is per se excellence! The entire dining T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled experience is sure to be remembered…QObala Sv. B Outside seating L Guarded parking Nikole 91, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 60 45 97, info@ hoteli-baskavoda.hr, www.hoteli-baskavoda.hr. Open 6 Pet-friendly Free transfer from the city S Take away 11:30 - 23:00. (65 - 550kn). A ­L ­B ­W to the restaurant W Wifi J Old town location www.inyourpocket.com Walkin distance Old City - Zrno Soli: Sweet delicacies No.1 by Julija 32 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket 15 minutesSummer 2016 33 Local Flavour Local Flavour Local Dishes Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from vari- ous parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tast- ing all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise your taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city and the market. Another option is to schedule your visit around the many gastronomic events happening all sum- mer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish Lamb, Photo by Višnja Arambašić or ingredient. See our guide to food festivals in the Split region. What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends The Foodie’s Guide on the season. Local people tend to stick very much to what’s around at a given time of year rather than rely- 01.06 WEDNESDAY - 30.09 FRIDAY ing on greenhouse-grown produce or imports. So, in the Kopačina Lamb Festival spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for Every Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, try about 15 different specialities made from lamb, for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes including lamb’s liver pate, lamb with broad beans Bolska marenda or brunch in Bol, Brač Island. Trudna Teća Archives, for more see page 17. us hungry just thinking about it. Also watch out for divlje and a host of different specialities. Be sure to reserve zelje, greens picked in the wild. your table - it’s very busy.QKonoba Kopačina, Donji homemade jams and preserves, liqueurs and brandies, Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply Humac, Brač island, www.konoba-kopacina.com. food markets cured meats and fresh poultry. It’s a veritable cornucopia of grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a When it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have flavours and colours, garnished with the lively banter of the black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or END OF JULY theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. There are no exotic sales people who are hoping to persuade you to taste their the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet The Soparnik Festival spices or complex preparations, just natural flavours. And goods and buy their products. Some of these market sellers or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler Pie to try! Head to the Dalmatian town of Dugi Rat boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of fan- have been feeding the Splićani for generations. Depend- seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with between Split and Omiš for the 12th edition of this tastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get them ing on the time of day you arrive, Pazar can be quite an vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići mouthwatering experience. This pie made of man- than the local farmers’ market and fish market, or as Splićani overwhelming experience, so it’s sometimes wise to buy a a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These gold, spring onions and parsley which are portioned call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the Peškarija (Pesh kah ria). cold beer at a nearby kiosk and join the locals in the shade are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and between two layers of the simplest dough. Dating Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep waiting for the prices to go down towards the end of the sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried since the Turkish invasions in Croatia, this is such a these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of day. Now you’ve got all of your meat and veg and some meats. These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every popular dish that it has earned its own festival, and the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs along the quay- wine and brandy, it’s time to pick out a nice piece of fish special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a has been registered Protected Geographical Indica- side. This is mainly due to the fact that the peškarija is close at the fish market. The peškarija is located smack bang in sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from tion (PGI) recently.QDugi Rat, www.tz-dugirat.hr. to the former fishing port of Matejuška, while Pazar is near the middle of Marmontova, the nice marble-paved street the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing to one of the main roads since most of the veg is grown at the western end of the Riva. You must have seen it or at a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, ca- 16.08 TUESDAY inland. The good thing is that Pazar is very close to the bus least smelled it out. No worries, due to the sulphur wells pers and herbs depending on the version. Or from inland, Hrapačuša Night station and the ferry port, so if you can spare a few minutes that brought Diocletian here, the air here keeps the fish look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and The village of Dol has its very own living legend - a before leaving for your favourite island you can stock up on hygienic as there are no flies. The fish market opens early, spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and driz- lady named Barica who is proud holder of the title of veg since it’s at least three times more expensive on the with the morning catch coming in even before 07:00, so zled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find World Champion in the making of Hrapačuša cake. islands. Aside from its practical uses, Pazar is one of those set an alarm clock if you want the best pieces to end up on on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for Some may point out that Hrapačuša is only made on places where the local population and pleasure-seeking your grill. Dalmatian people do not eat expensive fish like compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly Brač and in particular in Dol and that this is therefore tourists tend to mix without prejudice. It’s a gathering place dentex, john dory or the other prize catches. These all go made at home and truly delicious. no achievement at all, but we defy anyone to taste for people from islands like Brač, Hvar and Šolta, for the to restaurants or tourists. Locals prefer cheaper, smaller fish A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a the cake of Barica and tell us that she is not among mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and for people like sardines, anchovies, bonito, squid, seabream, mackerel biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you’ll prob- the greats of this planet, or even neighbouring gal- from smaller local towns like the seven Kaštelas. All of them and red mullet. These fish are not only easy on the pocket, ably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie axies, in the art of making cake. Her Hrapačuša is a bring their produce to the concrete benches in the shade they’re tasty and healthy too - the benefits of oily fish like in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg of the eastern wall of Diocletian’s palace. Here you can find sardine and mackerel are renowned. Feeling a bit nervous for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from almonds yolk, a calorific atom bomb that induces an intense everything that grows under the sun, from strawberries, about buying fresh fish? Just look for shiny scales, clear eyes and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were invented sugar rush and has been named “Dol Viagra” with fresh or dried figs, lemons, grapes and pomegranates to and firm flesh. Check the gills too, which should be bright by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamer- good reason. Try Barica’s award-winning cake in Ko- wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smelling tomatoes, red. Now you bought it, you will have to gut it. Gross? Ask lengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue noba Toni or at island gastronomy festival Hrapačuša plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach and chard, au- the person behind the counter, if they’re not too busy they her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days Night.QDol, Brač island. bergines, carrots, courgettes, goats’ and sheep’s cheeses, might oblige. If not, best stick to the restaurants. as a mark of her gratitude. 34 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 35 Coffee & Cakes Coffee & Cakes the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and cocktails Kavana Figa Teak caffe on offer and don’t forget peruse the café interior with Right from the Voćni trg, in the narrow passage you’ll Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one its renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous set- find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor ting.QD‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily sur- tel. (+385-21) 78 23 38, www.kavana-cakula.hr. Open its industrially fitted interior. rounded by the stone walls of neighbouring build- 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 02:00. P ­J ­A ­ The cool exterior and décor is adjoined by the varied ings.QJ‑2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20 B ­X ­W offer of light meals, from classical breakfast and salads 10, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, to pasta and fish, and all at value for money. As the day Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00. Favola goes by, you will be able to choose one of the cock- P ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here’s a great tails and enjoy this place and its complete offer which opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café is available at any time of the day, until late night.QI‑2, Žbirac along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they’d state Buvinina 1, tel. (+385-21) 27 44 91, linda.vladislavic@ It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it’s gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­ for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it. X ­W a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. It’s name is Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during state that the female toilet is unusually narrow!QI‑2, Kavana Procaffe the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21) 34 48 48, A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping judge!QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, akrapante@ konoba-favola.com/o-nama/. Open 08:00 - 24:00. a coffee with an outlook toward the Kaštela towns and gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. Open 07:30- 01:00, Fri, Sat P ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there’s nothing 07:30 - 02:00. P ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W better than sitting here and watching the passing sail- FRO (ISPRID BANKE) boats and rowboats.QC‑2, Špinutska 67, tel. (+385-21) Can’t miss this Café on the Riva! Large exterior, small inte- 38 43 23, [email protected], www.procaffe.hr. Open Small Plates & rior, large range of drinks, small wait for service! Fro is all 07:00 - 01:00. P ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W Sweet Treats about kicking up the heels, enjoying the scenic view of the harbour and watching people go by. Cocktails, coffees, Libar Goluzarije fresh OJ, beers and wine are all standard.QI‑2/3, Obala ‘Libar’ in local dialect means ‘a book’ and though this Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh? Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 11. Open 07:00 - 01:00, isn’t a library the café interior is chock-full of handmade Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00.­B ­­W themed items. Cosy ambiance indoors and terrace shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes views that say WOW. Watch sporting events live, re- made according to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica Galerija spectable choice of beers and wines at reasonable pric- Zrinsko Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12. Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range es.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3. Open 07:00 - 24:00, of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P ­J ­A ­6 ­B ­X ­W Kuća kolača strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home rec- pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cock- Lvxor ipes of the region, look no further as the staff here serves 4coffee soul food Archives tails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries. There is you jostling!QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-) the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that re- no seating so it is all take out and on the go. Not bad 4coffee soul food 095 197 16 56, [email protected]. Open mains), Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is stel- if you would like a nibble on the beach!QF‑3, Ruđera The name says it all, heartfelt ownership and staff that 08:00 - 24:00. P ­J ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W lar. And the services on offer match the quality of the Boškovića bb, tel. (+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095 make every effort to ensure your experience is soulful! location. There’s wireless Internet, magazines and daily 926 40 30, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - Though tiny inside, the coffee experience is why locals HOK Kavana and Gallery newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu 20:30. Closed Sun. N ­G ­W reverberate here as the beans that are used and served Café meets bar meets mini nightclub in the later hours is that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sand- send a scent of freshness and in the air will have your nose how best to describe this kavana. Lots of events are held wiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer Luka Ice-cream & Cakes twinkling.QJ‑2, Hrvojeva 9, tel. (+385-) 091 523 94 65, here especially with artists who often have their work show- months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peri- Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - cased and launched to an audience. Musical theme nights style so you can lounge around in true imperial style. these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have 14:00. W are also a catch with rock to pop to retro among the most QJ‑2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, lvxor@ you coming back over and over again for more. Every popular. Come by day or night, you’re bound to catch a cool lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredi- Aktuell drink and a good vibe.QD‑2, Kavanjinova 11, tel. (+385-) 08:00 - 02:00. P ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W ents, so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As With its super equipped interior, modern design and re- 092 236 03 24. Open 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. B ­W well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smooth- laxed atmosphere, this cafe bar is a place not to be missed Šetač ies.QI‑1, Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 594 95 52, when visiting Split. Besides offering Lavazza coffee, they Kalafatić The seven axes embedded in pieces of wood lining the [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 01:00, also prepare different types of pastries and breakfast If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. P ­J ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­W throughout summer. Large LCD screens provide the per- choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are per- alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner fect backdrop for World Cup mania!QD‑3, Mile Gojsalića fect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly com- a server and make them spill the beans regarding their Tradicija 1, tel. (+385-) 095 818 88 88. Open 07:00 - 24:00. i ­6 ­ pany. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of origins. Axes notwithstanding, the bar’s large outdoor This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand N ­B ­X ­W the sea, it’s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the seating area and small but stylish interior make for a old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, bis- whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out cuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to Ćakula beach.QE‑3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-21) 57 13 09/(+385- the passersby.QI‑1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb, nina. tradition - just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel. Right on the Riva, the sea breeze gently blows whilst you 21) 38 91 01, kalafatic.fullbusiness.com. Open 07:00 - [email protected]. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 (+385-21) 36 10 70, [email protected]. Open 08:00 order your beverages from sunrise till dawn. Choose from 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W - 24:00. P ­B ­X ­W - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. P ­N ­S 36 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 37 Nightlife Nightlife During the summer months the nightlife in Split is not only Ghetto rich and vibrant on the weekends but throughout the week Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco as well. It must be said that due to the countless open-air soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky concerts, festivals, bars and restaurants, spending time with feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and friends and hanging out in the city is done mostly outdoors. bees. Symbolic? You decide.QJ‑2, Dosud 10, koracat@ A night out typically begins with a drink on the Riva — the gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P ­J ­6 ­E ­N ­B ­ main seaside promenade in front of the old town — or at X ­W one of the many popular wine bars which have opened up in recent years. A popular meeting and drinking place for the La Bodega Split younger boisterous crowd is at Matejuška — a stone pier jut- With chills and thrills, La Bodega is a stunning wine bar that ting out into the sea located less than half way from the old is comfortable enough to sit and relax, and when the num- palace walls to the city marina. The night moves on from here bers increase, people can choose to stay in or drink outside. and people begin to gravitate towards the many bars tucked A cosmopolitan/mature crowd gather with live bands per- inside the walls of the old Roman palace among the tiny forming on certain nights. Tops for warm up drinks or park labyrinthine streets. Truth be told, the majority of the bars are yourself and stay the entire night.QI‑2, Mihovilova širina often very small; with space inside at a premium, crowds pre- 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 44, [email protected], fer to gather in front of the bars themselves. Accommodat- www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P ­A ­E ­G ­ ing bar owners often place benches or cushions outside for B ­X ­W people to sit on. This phenomenon is most prevalent along the narrow streets of Get, located less than 100 meters from Moon bar the seaside promenade, where bars are stacked one next to Having opened last year, Moon Bar has become a hit another up a zigzagging staircase. With people sitting and amongst ‘Spličani’ with lots of theme nights, DJs and live mingling on the stairs, the flow of people — though not bands performing throughout the year. There is always ac- unpleasantly — slows to a crawl. This is the ideal place to tion aplenty and the modern and futuristic interior adds truly experience the laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere to the ambience. Lighting is effective with laser like rays that’s typical of Split and its people. If, after all this you’re still spreading across the venue, you might be packed like a sar- in the mood for exploring, the early morning hours is when dine at times but that’s what creates the atmosphere.QE‑3, the nightclubs located outside the palace walls come to life. Matice hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99, [email protected] com.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. P ­A ­ L ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W Bars some famous inhabitants. DJ’s play varied music genres so club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially Caffe bar Fluid ST Riva prepare to dance the night away.QE‑3, Put Firula 53, tel. hangover-inducing drink specials. If you’re in the mood Get ready to take in some fluids at the café with the same Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located (+385-) 091 901 09 63, [email protected]. Open for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere. name, for one thing the cocktails and rakija (grappa) are along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P ­A ­B ­X ­W A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from pretty darn good & cheap with lots of flavours to choose summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you the club crush.QE‑3, Uvala Zenta 3, info.ohara@gmail. from. The café is quite small and there are tables and seats have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill Hemingway com, www.ohara.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - along the steps outside. Live DJs at weekends!QI‑2, Dosud whilst sipping beverages.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narod‑ Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact 05:00. Closed Sun. P ­A ­B ­X ­W 1, tel. (+385-) 095 670 00 02. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat nog preporoda 18, [email protected], www.st-riva. your plimsolls won’t even make it past the door. This is Split’s 08:00 - 01:00. com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P ­J ­ most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where Vanilla G ­B ­W bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai.QC‑2, VIII. Mediteranskih this open, airy club and don some slick duds before mak- Welcome to Split’s ‘new kid on the block’, a sensational new To Je To igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, [email protected], www. ing the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You’ll find pub that is a gem upon entry. Located centrally in the histor- Located in Old Town Split, come on in and rave like a Roman hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes ical palace, the sheer interior oozes all that is old ’n’ new and at the bar with one of the largest selections of Croatian Craft P ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W on the speakers and a hip decor.QC‑2, Mediteranskih the lighting really sets the tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or Beers as well as homemade rakija (local grappa) on offer. igara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 169 00 00, sandro.jelavic@ so international beers and top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique Hand roasted coffee available too. Live music is often on the Judino Drvo hotmail.com, www.vanilla.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, has DJs spinning tunes on weekends and you can stay all agenda and there is seating available outside for those scin- Newly opened at the former Croatian Railway warehouse Sat 08:00 - 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W night or drop in for some warm up drinks before a night tillating hot nights. Btw ‘To je To’ means ‘That is That’ in Eng- this is the perfect place for a new club, as it’s located out.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 lish, and that’s that!QI‑2, Nigerova ulica 2, tojetocaffe@ away from residential areas. Neon noose lights hang from 12 71, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 02:00. gmail.com, www.tojetosplit.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri the ceiling giving an eerie and artsy vibe to the dark and casino platinum P ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. P ­6 ­ dingy space. Their program offers music nights, filled with E ­B ­W performances by a variety of singers, as well as theatre and Located within 5* hotel “Atrium”, very close to city Gaga film nights.QE‑1, Kopilica 24, antonia.kuzmanic@gmail. center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main com, www.judinodrvo.com. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily Clubs P ­J ­A ­U ­L ­E ­G ­W underground garage, money exchange office, bar coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song Hedonist lounge.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+385- chatter of the interesting local folk.QI‑2, Iza Lože 5, tel. Exclusivity is the key and this café by day slash nightclub O’Hara 21) 27 48 00, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00 (+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - by night has an ultramodern interior with an amazing light Small groups of Split’s young hell-raisers mark the way - 24:00. P ­G ­X ­W 02:00. P ­N ­B ­X ­W show under the stars. Tis a local hot spot and does attract to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with 38 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 39 Sightseeing Sightseeing

Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and cha- pels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the high- est point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.

Riva If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quiz- zical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a Photo by Marša Gajinov broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. essenTIAL SPLIT It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that Diocletian’s Palace have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over (Dioklecijanova palača) a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva con- A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from tinues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI‑3, practically any emperor would be more than happy to Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was The Peristyle and The Cathedral of lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, light- completed in ten years and utilized a variety of mate- St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Museums house lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit rials from all around the region, including white stone Dujma) Archaeological Museum is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally (Arheološki muzej) developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nine- all the way from Egypt. Diocletian’s palace has become guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s teenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathe- archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient pal- dral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest mu- by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on ace complex - The part of the palace known as “the the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The seum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly the east side of the fortress.QK‑2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, per- from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thou- Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, [email protected], support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, haps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mau- sands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured www.hpms.hr. June - August Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of soleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along by prior arrangement. September - May 31st Open thousands of years of history. Now, it’s been cleaned form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal 09:00 - 15:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently and glass from various historical periods including pre- 10 - 20kn. plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrin‑ basement can help visitors envision the layout of the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign sko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@ Ethnographic Museum Split palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In armus.hr, www.armus.hr. Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 (Etnografski muzej Split) palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15 - 30kn. If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croa- the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. tia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb Croatian Maritime Museum Split Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding (Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split) was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of tradi- meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping area and the nearby port.QJ‑2. Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and tional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving structures.QI/J‑2. Veli Varoš of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s and pottery, that have been practised in the region over Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbour- located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians the years.QJ‑3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) hood full of winding streets and old apartments that is in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, [email protected], www.etnografski- When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian muzej-split.hr. June - September 15th Open 09:30 - second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling col- 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. September 16th - May 31st walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2. lection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Sun by prior ar‑ Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also rangement. Admission 10 - 15kn. 40 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 41 Sightseeing Sightseeing

Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović 16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939 Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the art- the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble be- work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medi- ginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted posi- eval and modern art, combined to produce an emotion- tion in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.QB‑3, Šetalište ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, mim@ sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. May - September 30 style. The display includes an impressive selection of his Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and hoil‑ large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works days. October - April 30 Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00, and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission also famous for the huge works he produced for public 20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 60kn Family. spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović Museum of Croatian Archaeologi- emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syra- cal Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih cuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South arheoloških spomenika) Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent his- tory that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, Poljud Stadium sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and () sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give Known to locals as Poljudska ljepotica or the “Poljud you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece beauty”, Poljud is the second largest stadium in collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Me- a capacity of 35,000 people. The stadium was origi- dieval.QA‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385- nally constructed by the Yugoslavian government 21) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 09, [email protected], as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Games and was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split. By far the Museum of Fine Arts most important and revered sports team in Dalma- (Galerija umjetnina) tia, a dedicated fan base around the world has fol- Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most lowed Hajduk throughout the team’s history. In the absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by former , Hajduk was one of the few teams an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Alle- to attract fans from different regions and ethnicities, gory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview particularly with in . And there are of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never playing in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel a game without at least some of their loyal fans in Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian football and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of ma- supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the terial for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s 1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‘to cheer’), temporary exhibitions blending local and international the Torcida are one of the most dedicated football artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atri- supporters groups in Europe. The Torcida gener- um, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications, ally call Hajduk players as bili, which in local dialect all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience. is the plural form of bijeli, or white, in reference to Current information on all the upcoming events can be the white shirts that, along with blue shorts, com- viewed at the museum’s website.QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomis‑ prise the Hajduk uniform. Along with the team’s rich lava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 12, galerija-umjetnina@ history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality galum.hr, www.galum.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun football players, with several going on to illustrious 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, June 15th - September 15th careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn when the Croatian national team placed third in the Children, 40 - 60kn Adults. 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were for- mer Hajduk players. In 2015, the Poljud Stadium was Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) declared as a protected cultural monument of the The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century Republic of Croatia. and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as 42 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 43 Sightseeing Sightseeing

Churches a – Bribirska 10, 21000 Split Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery m – +385 98 701 903 (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) e – [email protected] Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint w – www.galerijajaksic.com Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it ac- quired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between July and Sep- tember there will be no mass at 11:00 .QJ‑2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 19:00.

The Franciscan Church and Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shal- low Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Bačvice beach 1936, Photo by Julije Mosettig Poljud. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The Franciscan their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the [email protected], www.mgst.net. June - September 30th church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renais- City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced Open 08:30 - 22:00. October Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun sance complex in Split. The oldest object is a gothic drawer back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 - 20kn. for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows pre- grown in subsequent years to include various paintings cious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monu- Galleries by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those ments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Emanuel Vidović Gallery who, on the Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numer- (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope ous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully- for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun Ivan X, were outlawed in the Church, with help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel. restored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to 09:00, 10:00, 11:30 and 19:00. June 21st - August 30th Mass the only accepted language for Mass and official Church (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada- the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Sun: 08:30, 10:00, 19:00.QC‑1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was con- (+385-21) 38 13 77, [email protected], www. debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the sumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic town- samostan-poljud.com. Open by prior arrangement. middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side A MASTER OF LIGHTNING scapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of politi- This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there Landmarks cal and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of is a fascinating re-creation of the artist’s former studio - Grgur Ninski cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Em- including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called and one of the fathers of . You can see pire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by memory led him to flourish in school. Although he Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen the then current church system. The Great Assembly took another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ‑2, good luck).QJ‑2. Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, info@ AQUARIUM SPLIT tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first galerija-vidovic.com, www.galerija-vidovic.com. June Prokurative (Trg Republike) ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life - September 30th Open 08:30 - 22:00. October Open The largest aquarium in Croatia is located in Split! Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square sur- and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 - 20kn. With over 130 different fish species, including fresh- rounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neo- feature film and other works inspired by the inven- water fish, turtles and crocodiles, it’s a treat to visit Renaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the tor and will be presented in cities around the globe. The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica with your family or friends. They have a total of 22 southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, splitske katedrale) aquariums containing various characteristic fish spe- harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during awarding the best in show films or other works made The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and cies from the Adriatic Sea, such as sharks, lobsters, the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision about Tesla. The Festival will travel throughout the church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and ba- muraena and many more.QObala pomoraca, Vran‑ of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by United States and Europe. With a name now immor- roque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from jic, tel. (+385-21) 24 71 15, info@aquariumsplit. the architecture of the same period in . While rela- talised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla 1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the com, www.aquariumsplit.com. Open 10:00 - tively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest 8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century 22:00, June and September Open 10:00 - 20:00. alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the scientists the human race has ever seen. and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th Tickets 50 - 75kn. Children under 4 free. most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of century.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. Split.QI‑2, Trg Republike. 44 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 45 Dalmatian Zagora Dalmatian Zagora vineyards in the hills above Skradin, produces boutique wines riders wear traditional costume, and the whole occasion is houses and dry stone walls, is being developed as an ethno- that are highly sought-after. There’s also a growing wine in- one of festive pageant.Qwww.visitsinj.com. village complete with accommodation, traditional inn and a dustry around , whose blended reds and indigenous display of handicrafts.Qwww.tzvrgorac.hr. Kujundžuša whites are increasingly highly rated - indeed Skradin Imotski winemaker Grabovac has opened a wine bar in the Located on the shores of Prokljansko Lake, just inland from coastal resort of Makarska to promote the local tipple. What Šibenik, Skradin is both the gateway to the Krka National Situated on the Vrličko polje plateau 66km inland from Split, follows is our list of ten places you should visit in order to get Park and an attraction in itself - a typical Mediterranean Vrlika is a typical Zagora market town sprawling around the an authentic flavour of the Dalmatian Zagora. town made up of stone-paved streets and arched alley- base of a fortress-capped hill. Vrlika is famous above all for ways. There’s a lakeside marine full of yachts, and a hand- the Vrličko kolo, an energetic circle dance that’s considered ful of superb restaurants serving traditional Skradin cuisine. to be one of Croatia’s natural cultural treasures and features Ten must-visit places Qwww.skradin.hr. on the repertoire of many a folklore group. The dance also features in the Gotovac/Begović opera “Ero the Joker”, part Drniš The Gorge of which is set beside the Vrlika Fountain or Vrlička Česma, The annual carnival processions Mačkara, A pleasant market town midway between Šibenik and , Coastal Omiš is the place to take boat trips into the lower located in the town park. The pre-Romanesque Church of Photo by Boris Filipovic Grcic, Sinj Tourist Board Archives Drniš is famous for its crag-hugging medieval fortress, and reaches of the Cetina Gorge, where riverside restaurants Holy Salvation, one of the most iconic early-medieval build- the nearby village of Otavice, site of the Chapel of the Holy serve trout and other local delicacies. Travel agents in Omiš ings in the whole country, is in the village of Cetina, 8km Redeemer built by sculptor Ivan Meštrović to serve as his also organize rafting trips on the higher, white-water sec- northwest of Vrlika.Qwww.visitvrlika.com. When people think of Dalmatia they usually think of the family burial chapel.Qwww.tz-drnis.hr. tions of the Cetina. If you have a car, head for the inland town Adriatic coast, complete with its beaches, islands and sway- of , where a lookout point above the upper parts ing palm trees. What is often forgotten is that Dalmatia also Imotski of the gorge offers dramatic views of waterfalls.Qwww.tz- Nestling on the sleepy side of Mount , the massif has a huge tract of inland territory, much of which is just as If there is one place in the Zagora you absolutely must visit omis.hr. that rises just inland from the , Zagvozd is exotic and just as interesting as the seaside but much less then it’s Imotski, an old Venetian town on the Hercegovinian home to one of the oddest but longest-running of Croatia’s visited, making it more than ripe for discovery. border that is renowned for the two natural wonders on the Vrgorac cultural festivals, Actors in Zagvozd (Glumci u Zagvozdu; Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian edge of town, the Blue Lake (Modro jezero) and the Red Lake Birthplace of the famously bohemian Croatian poet Tin July-August; www.glumciuzagvozdu.hr), when the cream Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind (Crveno jezero). Both of them are dramatically deep depres- Ujević (1891-1955), Vrgorac is another small town that of the country’s thespian talent converges on this small the hills’, a reference to the mountains that run along a good sions formed by the collapse of limestone caves, and filled sits beneath a medieval fort. The place is famous for the country town to perform plays and give recitals, often in the deal of the coast. Indeed much of the Zagora is a mountain- with water - the level of which rises and falls depending on number of surviving towers built by wealthy families and open-air, and frequently to huge audiences. Drinking and ous, arid place, known for the scrub-covered hills and rocky seepage and seasonal conditions. Extraordinarily beautiful in military captains to serve as both living space and fortified feasting usually follows; Zagvozd is well worth a visit during wastes known as kamenjar (‘stone fields’) - but also for its real life, but difficult to convey in two dimensions, the Imotski refuge. The nearby village of Kokorići, full of traditional stone the festival whether you’re following the plot or not. neat towns of stone houses and intensively cultivated islands lakes are really something you have to go and see yourself. of agriculture. The Zagora may be a blind spot as far as tour- Qwww.tz-imotski.hr. ists are concerned but it has never been so to the Dalma- tians themselves, who have a high regard for its resourceful, Knin hard-working inhabitants. The inhabitants of the Zagora are A strategic railway-junction town lying in a bowl between frequently termed vlaji by their coastal neighbours (a mock- mountains, Knin is famous for the huge fortress, built in the ing reference to the Vlachs, the semi-nomadic sheep-rearers time of Croatian King Zvonimir, that hovers above town who roamed the Balkan interior in centuries past), although from its suitably dramatic rock. With much of its walls intact, the term conveys a positive sense of hardy self-reliance as well it’s an extensive site, and comes with fantastic views of the as country-bumpkin simplicity. The populations of the coastal surrounding Zagora landscape.Qwww.tz-knin.hr. towns have always been fed by immigration from the interior, and settlements such as Zadar, Šibenik and Split have always Krka National Park faced two ways, serving as seafaring Mediterranean cities as With wooden walkways leading past lakes and waterfalls, well as ‘capitals’ of their extensive hinterland. and boat trips to monastic islands and haunting canyons, Much of the Zagora’s haunting beauty comes from its exten- Krka National Park is quite simply breathtaking, and can eas- sive areas of arid, maquis-covered plateau. However it’s also ily fill well over a day of holiday time - especially if you have an area of much geological drama, with canyons and water- your own transport, in which case you can visit the Roman falls around the Krka National Park and the Cetina Gorge, deep ruins of Burnum and the wild, little-visited, northeastern mysterious lakes at Imotski, and tortured limestone features reaches of the park.Qwww.npkrka.hr. almost everywhere. Roman remains at Burnum, and medieval fortress at Drniš, Knin and Sinj, provide a sense of historical Sinj depth. The gastronomy of the Zagora is also distinctive, plac- A handsome old town lying half an hour’s drive inland from ing more emphasis on sheep, cattle and freshwater fish than Split, Sinj is home to a famously alluring, miracle-working the coastal parts of Dalmatia. The practice of roasting meats in icon of the Virgin that hangs to the left of the main altar in a lidded metal vessel covered in glowing embers is a Zagora the main parish church. There’s also an old fortress that’s speciality, and is found almost everywhere inland. You also well worth visiting on the hill above. On the first Sunday of come across numerous regional specialities: freshwater fish every August crowds from all over Dalmatia descend on Sinj inland from Omiš, slow-cooked veal risottos around Skra- to witness the Alka, an age-old tournament in which horse- din, delicious home-cured pršut ham from Drniš, and frogs’ men gallop downhill with lances in their hands, hoping to legs from . As far as local drink is concerned, Bibich, with spear a ring that hangs above the end of the course. The 46 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 47 Dry Stone Wall Split Surroundings North of Split Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me’ of Split, it’s a fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for taking photos. For another step back in time the town of Solin, which is an ancient Roman set- tlement and happens to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other historical buildings.

Marina Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is located in the center of Dalmatia. It’s situated exactly halfway in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is sur- rounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quad- rangular tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th cen- tury, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered throughout the former Dridske county, as well as the St. Philip and Jacob’s Cave, famous for having been Bavljenac - The whole island is covered in dry stone walls, Photo by Boris Kačan visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Novo mesto - Brač, Photo by Višnja Arambašić Marina Riviera consists of three small picturesque Dal- matian towns: Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook A dry stone wall, fence or suhozid is a structure made of have them interlock accordingly to ensure durability and the crystal clear blue waters and sandy beaches. In the natural stone without the use of a binding material such stability. surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions as mortar. The construction of dry stone walls, and other When we talk about dry stone constructed shelters in Croa- and customs, folklore costumes and local gastronomy are structures made without mortar, demand special skills and tia, our attention must be turned to the kažun in Istria, the still preserved. This area is rich in ancient olive groves and traditions handed down over generations. They are a sig- komarda in the Kvarner region, bunja in Dalmatia and trim is widely known for producing olive oil. As well, numerous nificant part of the cultural heritage of the greater Mediter- on the island of Hvar. These circular-shaped huts and their bike paths in this region allow for a great way to explore ranean area stretching back to ancient times. conical or stepped roofs were originally used as dwellings this time-honoured area. In prehistoric times when neolithic farming took hold in the for people, but later shifted their purpose to house agricul- European hinterland, former cave-dwelling people built tural tools, farm equipment, and ultimately as emergency Marina Tourist Board their homes, fences and animal shelters using wood. Mean- shelters for shepherds to take refuge from a passing storm. QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, info@tz- while, in southern Europe and along the Mediterranean, If you wish to see examples of dry stone walls in the city of marina.hr, www.tz-marina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun wood was in large part difficult to find, and due to frequent Split, look no further than Marjan park. The city’s forested 08:00 - 12:00. droughts and resulting wildfires, wooden structures were park is intertwined with a network of mortarless walls and also impractical. Different building techniques developed fences that cover nearly the entire surface of the park. It Orson Welles filmed “The Merchant of Venice” in Trogir in 1969. in these areas which took advantage of the plentiful stone is also possible to run into examples of the circular field Trogir harvested from the rocky terrain. It was in this way that houses typical of Dalmatia mentioned earlier. Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, dry stone construction began to shape Dalmatia and the In order to preserve and maintain this traditional form of Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible structures which dominate the area even today. In addition construction, the Dragodid project was launched. Dry historical and architectural traditions, both of which have to walls, the technique was used to build small dwellings; stone workshops are organized whereby participants can been built upon by a progression of generations during the fences encircling vineyards, arable land and pastures; and learn traditional building techniques. If anyone is interested past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one in the construction of wells. The Premužić trail, a 57 kilome- in participating in one of the workshops, information can encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance tre-long path cutting through the highest peaks of north- be found on their website or FB page: www.dragodid.org. architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores ern and central Velebit, is yet another famous example of and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation mortarless architecture. Further advantages of this type of of architectural styles from different eras. Founded in the 3rd construction is that they protect against soil erosion and The Dry Stone Workshop century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was serve as shelter for various plants and animals; including, The peak seasons for dry stone construction in Dalmatia are an important port in the region until well into the Roman lizards, snakes, frogs, bees and insects. Dry wall construc- the spring and fall. Construction subsides slighly during the era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Sa- tion is a reflection of the diligent and often hard life of the summer because the days are too hot. The dry stone work- lona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir Jean Marais during the filming of the locals who collected the stones from the environment to shop which is traditionally held on the first day of the Lav‑ underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods romantic-adventure film “Goubbiah, mon amour.” use in the myriad structures. But by doing so, agricultural ender Festival in Velo Grablje on the island of Hvar - this of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside govern- land and living space for animals would be cleaned of cum- year falls on Friday June 24th. For information regarding ments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from More information about the film history of Trogir can be found at: bersome stone. When building any dry stone structure, it the autumn workshops, please follow the Dragodid web- 1420 to 1797. While the former rulers of the region were in- www.trogirtimetravel.blogspot.hr. Look under Trogir Time Travel - is of extreme importance to select the proper stones and site and Facebook page. terested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city Kamera! (atr) Akcija! 48 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 49 Split Surroundings Split Surroundings

today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name accommodates private and charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac, churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392 Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and per- both places are distributed along a circular bay. The numer- by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in haps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence ous bays and beaches have made this area one of the most front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old, and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with beautiful under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvon- Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting activities are imir rested. And that’s just the beginning. All are accessible in 1240. The cultural and historical significance of the town offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving, water skiing, by car. and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the paragliding, as well as fitness centers and courts. United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organiza- After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine, there are Kaštela Tourist Information Centre tion) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, numerous restaurants and bars along the coast, with great QObala kralja Tomislava 14, Kaštel Stari, tel. (+385- marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history. While music, for a fun night out. 21) 23 20 44/(+385-21) 22 79 33, [email protected], traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, www.kastela-info.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely Okrug Tourist Board 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increas- QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21) ingly popular destination for tourists from around the world. 88 73 11, [email protected], www.tzo-okrug.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 19:00. Solin Trogir Tourist Board Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres QTrg Ivana Pavla II/1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, tzg- outside of Split at of the River and [email protected], www.tztrogir.hr. Open 08:00 - Kaštela the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman set- 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a se- tlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its quence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela’ primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace (), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, Čiovo route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends to (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Novi, there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Štafilć). Most were con- history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus trave- and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slati- structed in the 16th century to provide shelter from ma- led to the region and, because of its sea connections with na, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is con- rauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have nected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left be- hind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”. Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to en- hance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been care- fully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

Solin Tourist Board QKralja Zvonimira 69, tel. (+385-21) 21 00 48, tz@solin- info.com, www.solin-info.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Klis One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily acces- sible fortresses in the county is , planted precariously on 50 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 51 Split Surroundings Split Surroundings

sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with and more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town the A-1 motorway. Partially restored and now an outdoor one embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It seagull ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and whistle and face some of the islands. soak in the great views in every direction. There is a café right below the fortress. Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first men- tioned in written records in the first half of the 10th cen- Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split. tury. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in re- to visit. Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive taking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Vene- orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a tians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you beautiful Mediterranean town. visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. The first settlements in this area can be traced back to Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish inva- to the hinterland. sions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological ex- cavations and the remains of buildings and monuments Klis Tourist Board from the different time periods. Historical monuments, QMegdan 57, tel. (+385-21) 24 05 78, [email protected] such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and com.hr, www.tzo-klis.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00. the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century, are still standing today in between the various hotels and South of Split apartments. Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet podstrana Tourist Board another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, info@ to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts tz-podstrana.hr, www.tz-podstrana.hr. Open 07:00 - action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing, 21:00, Sun 08:00-14:00. Islands Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies The Vranjača cave offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and his- The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The torical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, winer- first, the existence of which was already known in the ies, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discov- they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The ered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just plot of land. This part consists of a system of nine smaller some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, story to tell. some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals. The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant tem- perature of 15ºC all year round. Vranjača is suitable for Šolta visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from lovers from all over. The cave, Vranjača, is located in the Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special foothills of the central part of , on the northern places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved has been largely maintained to the present day. This means road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in path to the entrance of the cave. The cave is open from the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusu- 15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June, ally kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrange- which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal ment (November - March). Guided tours, which last environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish. adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098 The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning 74 90 00 for more information. and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared 52 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 53 Split Surroundings Split Surroundings

for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent the summit of Brač’s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the mon- sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not astery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adven- of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that ture from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play per- the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 fect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive road. If you don’t have an SUV you run the risk of ruin- groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other princi- ing your vehicle’s suspension. Both trails are well marked, pal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be re- as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone. warded with great views plus Blaca’s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation. Hikers also might want to climb Šolta Tourist Board to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest QObala sv. Tereze 3, Rogač, Šolta, tel. (+385-21) 65 mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked 46 57, [email protected], www.visitsolta.com. Open trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted 07:00 - 21:00. road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorke- Brač ling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spec- equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend tacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, Croatian Adriatic.If you are going to be on Brač for a week retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, there’s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to on attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, their names should prove interesting. These include Su- which is on the northwest. tivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most of the island; Splitska, , Pučišća and on famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jut- the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All ting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quar- side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowd- ters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the ed during the summer, especially with younger people. seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views off- at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the shore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sight- Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers. seeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin ol- Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau al- ive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There most in the middle of Brač. are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia a travel bureau about where that is possible. Brač white are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the . Škrip’s Museum of Brač contains many an- American White House. And of course, it was used in the cient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, includ- building of many local houses. You will see several quar- ing a of Hercules. ries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, - a tort lawyer’s dream. you could extend your activities from what’s listed above There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Su- Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in petar and . Even if you had more than a week Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the do. You could spend many more days just driving around Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more in- or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery. teresting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in Supetar Tourist Information Centre 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, [email protected], steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and www.supetar.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. 54 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 55 Split Surroundings Split Surroundings

made from agave fibres. Hvar Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south experience. The mountainous areas from to Hvar of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik the opportunity for a thorough exploration. which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around sec- Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on tion. a route which passes alongside the island and today’s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Things to see and do: Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan). on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points only two islands, Zečevo and Duga. of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pa- It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the kleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar Fields which was formed around a square and its current city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands land- look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries. scapes are protected. The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coat- far from Jelsa, you’ll come across the small villages of , ing the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The west- Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their ap- ern side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and pearance and peacefulness. small towns. Only 7km east of Jelsa, you’ll find the abandoned village of Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napo- they’re completely unique in their entirety of rural architec- leon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop for- ture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital tressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C. a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Close by Jelsa is , which is hidden in the depth of Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with which bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the pris- worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Char- oners! Going around Hvar, you’ll encounter historical charm ity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in de- with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th cen- fence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the tury) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form. art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano On the northern slope above the square are the partially Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bas- preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the sano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini. On the northern part church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is to the southern side of the island you must pass through the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You’ll this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tun- altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an ar- nel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at moury with the most monumental sculpture of civil archi- both ends. With a call you’d know if there was a car waiting tecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331. Located to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley. in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by tunnel you’ll get to the southern side of the island which is the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the in Hvar is well known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace ‘Plavac Mali’ (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, 56 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 57 Split Surroundings Split Surroundings

Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side. The island’s mountains aren’t very high, however, with their coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker’s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving. Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša’ and ‘Drenkuša’ which can not be found any- where else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali’ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates in- clude Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac’ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Pla- vac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Franceska Zambarlin Cambarlinova (1900 – 1988), Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates. Forgotten Faces of Komiža Stari Grad Tourist Board “Forgotten Faces of Komiža” QObala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-21) 76 57 63, For Easter 2010, Dinko Božanić organized an interactive exhibition of [email protected], www.stari-grad-faros.hr. 40 selected photographs titled “Forgotten Faces of Komiža” at Komiža’s Open 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, public reading room. Next to each photo was a pencil and piece of 17:00 - 21:00. paper where the exhibition visitors wrote everything they knew about the faces in the photographs. In addition to basic information, such as name and surname, they could also write other facts: address, Vis don and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronom- huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is inter- profession, hobbies, anecdotes with which they remember them by… The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas ic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the esting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest has conserved its exceptional form. foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja indescribable beauty. miss the chance to meander around the renaissance sum- (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the The most attractive is the archipelago around the south- mer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the marvel that it is. east coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets ancient city. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. enjoy a true marine experience! the east, Sušac. One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek It’s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the is- Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The land of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweet- fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of ness”. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms. you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or cata- Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas maran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobot- you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its nica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis. month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest churches of St Cyprian (Sv. Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of Grohote old part, Šolta Tourist Board Archives towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the grape and fennel spirits. And, let’s not forget the island’s a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis in- on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, clude flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel. between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Je- those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church dra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split. in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the Vis Tourist Board island’s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which village offering a spectacular view of below. QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, tzg-visa@ is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service Things to see and do: The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the st.t-com.hr, www.tz-vis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - (Sućuraj-Drvenik line). The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with aban- township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone 21:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00. 58 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 59 Makarska Riviera OMIŠ Originating in Mt. at the border of Croa- to defend the town against attacks from Turkish in- tia and , the Cetina River vaders), churches and other structures dating back winds a tortuous course through the countryside as far as the 13th century. until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are of the river passes through an impressive gorge near located within the old city walls and include the the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and pic- church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost turesque town that is the center of what has become and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining church- known as “the Omiš Riviera.” However, things were es are located outside of the old city walls and in- not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety clude the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (Tvrđava) into the mouth of the river. is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an While it’s true that today yachts are more likely enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera of the Cetina River to the islands of Brač, Hvar and than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there’s Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica. still plenty of adventure to be had And when you’re finished exploring in Omiš. The mountainous ar- OMIŠ Tourist Board the natural beauty of Omiš and it’s eas around the town make for great Trg kneza Miroslava b.b., history, the town’s central location Makarska Tourist Board Archives hiking spots, the water is an invit- makes it a perfect starting point for ing crystalline blue and the history tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, the rest of your Dalmatian coast of the town can be explored in the [email protected] adventure, hopefully minus any Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these remnants of fortresses (like Mirabe- www.visitomis.hr dreams of terrorizing the seas as a leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a la, which the Corsairs of Omiš used modern-day Corsair of Omiš. long stretch of pure hedonism. new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The build- If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white ing of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, at- the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in tracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You’ll Europe. pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pi- In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was rates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a through a spectacular canyon into the sea. treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, mountain settings, they have great architectural and eth- some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela nological value. The village way of life was synonymous a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makar- agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (tav- ska Riviera, and this is where you’ll find some of the most erns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic photographed, most famous and most prized beach re- Dalmatian cuisine. sorts on the Adriatic. As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the re- This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine sorts in this guide, from Makarska it’s an easy ride to some per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an av- larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd, erage year-round temperature of 20˚C reaching summer- Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous time peaks of 23-27˚C. for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorići. and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and sea- Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of food, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region. times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and fruits and cherries. And of course, there’s plenty of local Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or in- wine. dulge in a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls! Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since Baška Voda the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants, their village on high ground under the protective shoulders in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town. of the mountains. With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in ho- 60 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 61 Makarska Riviera Makarska Riviera

tels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is pop- a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into Arriving on the ular with young people and families with children. There’s their visitor centre where you can find out about the old Makarska Riviera plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertain- around. Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km ment laid on. for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst land- away. The airport is served by domestic and inter- Baška Voda’s ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a scapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure national scheduled flights, as well as charters dur- mound just uphill from the waterfront. The names on an- sports challenges. You’ll find maps and information at the ing summer. For timetable information, see www. cient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited information centre that’s also located there. split-airport.hr. To get to Makarska you’ll need since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks trad- QBrela Tourist Board, Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. to take a bus or hire a car. For more information ed here and the Romans settled here - the latter named (+385-21) 61 84 55, [email protected], www.brela.hr. about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriv- the town Aronia. Open 08:00 - 21:00. ing & Transport in Split. Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the Drvenik By car: if you take the motorway, take the bastions still standing today. This is the site of important 29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is one direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Za- and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There’s dotted with coves and sandy bays. It’s peaceful, friendly greb. From Split, there is also the . also a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum. and the scenery is gorgeous - it’s a great place for a peace- Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by ful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you if you’re travelling at the weekend during peak fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje, can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island - it’s best if you have season. where today there’s a large camp site. However, there are some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St. George in By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, direct from the barrel - just bring your own container! the old hillside settlement. Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aro- QDrvenik Tourist Board, Donja Vala 241, tel. (+385- Squid, Photo by Višnja Arambašić Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Monte- nia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside 21) 62 82 00, [email protected], www.drvenik.hr. negro) and (Serbia). See www.autobus- villages of Bast and Topići - themselves largely depopu- Open 08:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00. refreshing breezes, it’s not hard to see why tourists started ni-kolodvor.com. lated since the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural to arrive at the turn of the 20th century. and cultural value of these villages has been recognised: Gradac The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the By train: Makarska is not served by the railway Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heri- When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we’ve period following the Second World War. Sometimes large network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, tage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again, but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine for- then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well ests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and www.hznet.hr. delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some as Gradac itself there’s Drvenik (above), , and the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a authentic Dalmatian cuisine in old-fashioned taverns. . Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back re- healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin They’re also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak sort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to holidays. on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from (1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www. that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna, in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying jadrolinija.hr. Bratuš and Krvavica. mounds you’ll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars QBaška Voda Tourist Board, Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel. and the old chapel of St. Pascal on Plana hill. A point of and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil corners and Main Bus Station (+385-21) 62 07 13, [email protected], www.bas- significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monas- experiences off the mass tourist radar. (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) kavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. From September 15 tery of St. Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miošić There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun. There is one desk for information and tickets, open Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very The city’s roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left luggage facil- popular book of folk verse which both served as a histori- it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the ity (no lockers) has the same working hours as the Brela cal document and helped develop the modern Croatian Cretans. The were the first tribes to truly leave ticket office, price 5kn per hour per item.QAnte A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly language. their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33. close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling QGradac Tourist Information Centre, Trg Soline 11, Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD. effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Gradac The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk in and enjoy them is irresistible. Tourist Board, [email protected], www.gradac.hr. Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccu- On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands rum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality, tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters Makarska which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Ma- long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French 07:00 - 21:00. scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches karska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Ma- and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the here have won numerous international accolades. karska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants. Sailors of historic buildings you see today. From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll Perhaps the most important historic building in the town island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formi- is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good dable Biokovo mountains above. Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head There’s a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sun- spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The www.connecto-taxi.com. up the mountainside towards the older parts of the set- shine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The tlement. A local society is dedicated to preserving and houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the town’s main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St. Mark, showcasing the culture of old Brela: it’s well worth taking coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront 62 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 63 Makarska Riviera Makarska Riviera

you’ll find the town museum and the Church of St. Philip. locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The The church of St. Peter resides on a green headland in a de- sport best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is lightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 the sights. With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers’ Collective, What’s more, it’s well worth exploring the mountainside an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cy- founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and cling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite and the association that Tučepi’s olive oil is rumoured to centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. You’ll its allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy, be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine vil- come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used often overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: acci- las modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century. by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at dents are all to frequent. Better pick a route through Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta Kotišina. It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Francis- the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist rooftops, there’s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A can monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St. An- of Shells. Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo runs 23km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure thony’s day (Tučepi’s patron saint), while the ka Kultura which is just one option for a spectacular hike. peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are manda- festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside vil- Although largely depopulated following a strong earth- tory). There’s also an 8km gravel track from Staza to lages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići quake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to Saranač, as well as belts cleared of trees to prevent and Podstup. renovate and revive the original customs and culture of the spread of fires around the edge of the Nature QTučepi Tourist Board, Donji ratac bb, tel. (+385-21) the upland villages. With amazing views over the coast Park. A 5km coastal path from Makarska to Tučepi is 62 31 00, [email protected], www.tucepi.com. and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some perfect for a gentler ride. Still on dry land, there are July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. June, September peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences. scenic and interesting hiking trails in the Biokovo Open 08:00 - 20:00. QMakarska Tourist Board, Obala kralja Tomislava Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock climb- 16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, [email protected]. ers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are also hr, www.makarska-info.hr. Open 07:30 - 22:00. climbing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska Museums and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca) Podgora the earth, there are two paragliding take-off points A private museum in a traditional family home in Gradac, Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic at Miletin bor and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea peaks, it’s not hard to see how Podgora got its name, Park. Water babies will love a refreshing ride on a of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in which means under the mountain. raft along the fast-flowing Cetina river. And then, the Andrijašević family, and collecting and displaying the www.pp-biokovo.hr With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradi- of course, there’s the sea. You can sail (or learn to), material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of tion dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski, or launch items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of every- of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You day objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and summer - it’s second only to Makarska when it comes to can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea 20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing, cooking, tourist numbers. It’s not hard to see why: the combina- fishing. Whichever you choose, we assure you the carpentry, sailing and music. There are also fragments tion of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey moun- experience will be unforgettable. from a Roman villa rustica. There’s a lovely collection of tain are a tourist’s holy trinity. folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly surroundings.QUz Kuk 6, Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75 performances from mid-June to the end of August: clas- Živogošće - Now we’re 20 km away from Split, heading 61, [email protected], www.museum-gradac. sical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five com. June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - Au‑ and folk dance performances bring drama and culture tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava. gust 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission free. to warm evenings. As elsewhere, Podgora’s inhabitants Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the Makarska Town Museum and sustenance. The attractive old inland settlement of coast road. (Gradski muzej Makarska) Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an QPodgora Tourist Board, Andrije Kačića Miošića 2, Makarska’s town museum is a great place to find out about entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park. tel. (+385-21) 67 89 42, [email protected], www. the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and sum- Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the follow- tz-podgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. mertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region ing places also fall within the Podgora district: from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth Drašnice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300 Tučepi of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the souls here. There’s a choice of pebbly coves, and with a A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime customs and culture of the seaside areas and the moun- little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Ma- tain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli coves there’s a cave named Medvidina where a local fish- karska Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja Tomis‑ erman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a easy access into the dazzling blue water. lava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, gradski- critically endangered species. Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riv- [email protected], www.mdc.hr/makarska/ Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant iera - the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after index.htm. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Marineta - Mala obala 16 little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of Sun. Admission 10kn. HR-21300 Makarska long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the invasion. You’ll find a treasury of history and folk architec- Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between ture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers The Archaeological Museum Collection tel./fax: +385 (0)21 616 924 the Venetians and the Turks. There’s a picturesque wa- and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman (Arheološka muzejska zbirka) [email protected] terfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone Traces of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast Photo by Ivo Pervan (PPB Archives) and kicking. buildings. In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy date back to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the 64 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 65 Makarska Riviera Makarska Riviera

period from these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th the hamlets were largely depopulated following the 1962 completely finished. The Makarska bishops began creat- century AD. The nations that settled and passed through The Biokovo quake, this is still the parish church of the Tučepi area. ing a religious treasury befitting the status of the diocese, here during that time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the Nature Park It’s built in quite a different style to most Dalmatian church- resulting in a wonderful collection of religious artworks Romans and the Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of es: it has a pale lemon façade with a neo-Classical doorway, and liturgical items created by craftsmen from Venice, Italy artefacts in this pleasant little museum, with some highly Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of culture plaster mouldings and a large semicircular window in the and Austria as well as local masters. In common with the ar- attractive pieces on display.QBlato 12, Baška Voda, tel. and general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia. frontage. The church’s ceiling is painted with images of chitectural treasures of the town, much of the religious col- (+385-21) 62 06 95, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - Nature park covers most of the mountain range and the Assumption and of St Anthony of Padua, and all win- lection reflects the Baroque spirit prevalent at the time of its 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Admission free. has a number of information centres and educational dows are in stained glass. A statue of Friar Ante Gilić, who creation. The treasury is an important chronicle not only the trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to constructed the church, stands at the bottom of the nave. development of the during that era but also The Malacological Museum buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarska - Vrgo- QSrida sela, Gornji Tučepi, tel. (+385-21) 62 32 51. of trade relations and cultural exchange.QTrg fra Andrije (Malakološki muzej Makarska) rac road. You can drive up there, but the best way to Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 13 65. Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple Church of St Philip Neri Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and of precautions: the terrain is rugged - wear strong (Crkva sv. Filipa Nerija) St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in shoes or hiking boots. The summer heat and sun can You’ll find this little church and its bell tower seemingly This church consecrated to the patron saint of Baška Voda the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, interspersed between two houses right on the waterfront. sits at the top of an elegant sweep of stairs in the centre scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden sun protection and plenty of water. Outside of the Its construction was initiated in the 18th century by Bishop of town. It was built in 1889 in a neo-Romantic style. Two beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex of the small bells sit atop the church frontage, while the bell tow- Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force. Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later burned er to the right was added in 1991. In 1987 colourful stained in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar here, glass windows by contemporary painter Josip Botteri Dini studies molluscs - a large branch of the animal kingdom Presentation centre: tel.(+385-21) 62 51 36. as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local legend were installed, and a year later modern paintings of the that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus Gornja Brela Presentation Centre has it that one night the sound of the organ playing softly Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel.QObala sv. and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, open was heard emanating from the locked church. The towns- Nikole 73, Baška Voda. about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of to visitors by prior arrangement. people interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan that invertebrate fossils. he’d like to be moved. They opened his grave and to their The Franciscan Monastery of the As- There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They in- sumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother terpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed nebo uznesene) Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life and the eerie organ music was never heard again.QObala The pretty and unspoilt shoreline at Zaostrog is graced world. So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a cu- itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo), Makarska. with the harmonious form of a large monastery with con- rious passer-by, there’s sure to be something that will gallery in the building of the former grammar school. siderable historical and cultural significance. It was home take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the Church of St Stephen the Martyr to Andrija Kačić-Miošić, the friar, philosopher, teacher and tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the (Crkva sv. Stjepana prvomučenika) poet from nearby Brist for most of his life - he is buried in 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admis‑ Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s At the end of the 19th century, a growing population the church here. The monastery in Zaostrog was originally sion 10 - 15kn. cultural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makar‑ along the seashore at Brela was in need of a church, so the founded in the 13th century by a community of Hermits ska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, [email protected], Church of St Stephen was built in 1889 on the site of an of St. Augustine who left in the face of Turkish invasions. The Malacological Museum www.galerija-antun-gojak.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 older church. Standing in a thicket of pine, it’s a pleasant A Franciscan community, itself displaced from Bosnia, set- (Malakološki muzej) - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. stone building with a pure white belltower added in the tled in the abandoned building in 1468 and are still there Baška Voda’s Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska, 1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light walls span- today (not the same ones, of course). They worked hard to has a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of the gled with colour from colourful stained-glass windows. expand and rebuild their monastery when fate deemed Adriatic but also from other seas around the world.QSrida Churches The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a stone- it necessary, building a library that now has over 20,000 3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Open 10:00 - 12:00, Church of Our Lady of the Rosary mason from Split. An altarpiece depicting St Stephen, St volumes, and running schools and a seminary for over five 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 - 5kn. (Crkva Gospe od Ružarija) George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the centuries. Today there is an excellent museum here, which, The slender bell tower of Our Lady is a startlingly pretty work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought apart from the library, holds ethnographic and liturgical The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and sight perched on a hill above this coastal village. The in Venice in 1825. Mass: 08:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00, 20:00. collections, an archive that includes valuable Turkish docu- Molluscs (Muzej riba, rakova i školjki) church dates back to 1752 but was significantly extended QDonje Selo, Brela, tel. (+385-21) 61 86 18. Open 08:00 mentation, and a gallery of works by local artist Mladen A little different in scope to the Malacological Museum, in the 20th century. The bell tower was built between 1923 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Veža.QObala hrvatskih rodoljuba 36, Zaostrog (nr. this institution collects only local specimens and collects and 1925: a wedding-cake-like construction with four lay- Gradac), tel. (+385-21) 62 92 00, branko.brnas@gmail. fish and crustaceans (e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as ers of columns encasing an open staircase. It’s not unlike St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) com, www.samostan-zaostrog.com. Open by prior ar‑ well as molluscs. The collection includes some 200 spec- the famous campanile of St Duje in Split. Apart from a col- Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St rangement. imens including some incredibly rare and interesting lection of furniture and implements dating from the 18th Mark’s Church marks Makarska’s central square, the heart beasties.QUlica fra Filipa Grabovca bb (Listun), Ma‑ century, the church has stained glass windows added in of the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska’s ca- The Franciscan Monastery of the As- karska, tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 2001 created according to the designs of two contempo- thedral, since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bish- sumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary 17:00 - 22:00. Admission 5 - 10kn. rary Croatian artists.QIgrane, nr. Podgora. op who had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na the Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat nebo uznesene) Church of St Anthony of Padua in Split, so nowadays St Mark’s has the status of a co-ca- The arrived in Makarska from Bosnia build- Gallery (Crkva sv. Anutna Padovanskog) thedral or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but ing their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were The Antun Gojak Town Gallery The hillside hamlet of Srida sela has a large and impres- otherwise similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and po- (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) sive parish church built between 1898 and 1901 to serve is certainly impressive. Construction of the church started litical opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by all the hamlets that make up Gornji Tučepi. Even though in 1700 and it was consecrated in 1756 although never monastery you see today came into being. The old monas- 66 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 67 Makarska Riviera Makarska Riviera

tian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska. Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob) him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are pep- went on to become the founder of the Church and the first rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they pered with very old gravestones called stećci (pro- pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual nounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity. The surrounding these stones, which date from the period walk.QSt Peter’s Peninsula, Makarska. rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one par- please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela. ticular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drve- Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac nik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragu- (Kameni stup za zastavu)) The Seagull’s Wing Monument tin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column (Spomenik Galebova krila) Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for On a hillside high above Podgora’s harbour is a striking Brela, village Medici, from the private collection Duje Medic of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull’s Wing which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who that the post was built during times of peace.QIn front of monument. During the Second World War, Podgora be- loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. the Tonoli Palace, Makarska. came the headquarters of the Partisans’ flotilla, which This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr. Drvenik. helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugosla- Stone Tower (Kamena kula) via. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created turistu) 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tour- in constant fear of raids. It’s not unusual, driving around symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its ism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built bent right wing represents those who fell in battle. The was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Poda- fighting against fascism.QPodgora. Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along ca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is sur- the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the rounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake. The Venetian Water Fountain female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac. (Gradska česma) it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark’s Church luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument featuring three lions’ heads spouting water from their Tučepi, Photo by Višnja Arambašić the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska. (Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću) mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pret- fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occu- tery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip ty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it’s pied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served don Mihovila Pavlinovića) no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture. place on Makarska’s central square. His statue’s plinth has of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied nat- And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a water fountain - this is where people came to get their ural sciences and humanities, founding a library which Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument’s supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr. a political movement campaigning for the right to self- of Croatia’s greatest sculptors. The coats-of-arms you see water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day. Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation determination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska. of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after by the poet in his famous songbook, “Pleasant Conversa- active today and is based in the monastery. Its Mala- him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an tion of the Slavic Peoples”. This expression of national con- cological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful sciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but Palaces is a respected institution with good links with similar style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora. it didn’t go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy The Ivanišević Family Palace museums around the world. The Institute also has a of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally (Barokna palača obitelji Ivanišević) herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected. Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an im- Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest 61 22 59, www.franjevci-split.hr. pressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs, town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It’s that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who cre- development of the modern Croatian language. All in all, privately-owned and not open to the public.QLištun, Landmarks ated the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s a smashing bloke, you could say!QTrg fra Andrije Kačića- Makarska. Kalalarga (Široka ulica) grave in before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches Miošića, Makarska. Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli) – a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, mean- 1999.QBaška Voda. The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Ve- ing Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were netian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it modern standards, but back in the day this was the very Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra) founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsatu- houses Makarska’s Town Museum, and you’ll also find the core of the town, the hub where everything was hap- Watching protectively over Makarska’s waterfront from a rated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most Tourist Association office here. Again, it’s in the local Ba- pening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle. prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making roque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome In case you’re wondering, that key he’s holding in his hand tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of romantic balcony at the front.QObala kralja Tomislava shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalma- there is to Heaven’s gate, so you might like to be on your millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi. 16, Makarska. 68 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 69 Leisure Shopping PLAN YOUR ACTIVITIES Art galleries WITH OUR PREVIEW Atelier Mikulić Split and its surrounding area is known for its pristine Paintings and sculptures by the Split-born academic painter and beautiful beaches, from sandy beaches in the city Neno Mikulić whose distinctive artistic style and sculptures that are suitable for families with children, to almost un- of ladies, sailors and ships can never go unnoticed.QC‑2, touched open pebbled beaches suitable for adventure Teslina 14b, tel. (+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@ and nature lovers. In Split itself, under the Marjan, the gmail.com. Open by prior arrangement. N beaches are named Bene, Kašjuni and Kaštelet; locals will tell you that without doubt the most famous beach Jakšić Gallery is Bačvice, where you can play the traditional home The owner and father, Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, game picigin. The islands within the Split archipelago the mother Ida Stipčić Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son are home to some sublime beaches; you can swim and Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has have fun on the scenic beach Zlatni rat in Bol, on the a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first island of Brač. This picturesque beach has been declared stonemasonry workshop 112 years ago in 1903. Their gal- the most beautiful beach in Croatia and it is unique in lery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculp- that it changes its shape and position, depending from tures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by where the wind blows. The island of Biševo on the south Dina.QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-21) 64 77 10/(+385- side hides the Porat Bay which is remotely visited as it 21) 64 78 57, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - can only be reached by boat. The bays around the lit- 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A tle island Proizd, near Korčula, bare the unusual sight of white rocks, a turquoise sea and fresh salty aroma in Jaman the air! Split artist Danijel Jaman’s original, vibrant and colourful On the way to Makarska, visitors will come across a se- paintings representing scenes of the Mediterranean, sail- ries of charming beaches, we simply have to highlight ing boats, world city landmarks, and more. Eye-catching Punta Beach or the so-called Velika plaža in Omiš, artwork!QI‑2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-) Punta Rata in Brela, and Nikolina Beach in Baška Voda. 098 32 27 19, [email protected], www.jaman- For those craving some Full Monty, a nudist beach we art.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A definitely recommend is the Nugal Beach on the Os- ejava peninsula. Morić Heading inland and away from the coastline, adrenaline A small yet very lovely gallery that offers a great selection Paparella aficionados will find it tough to choose in what to do of paintings by Croatian academic painters. A true insight Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can first with the abundant range of adventure activities on into Croatian fine art!QJ‑1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps offer. The Omiš area (Biokiovo, Mosor) and Cetina can- 31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, [email protected], to small boat models…all decorated and created with a yon is known for rafting, cannoning, canoe safari, www.galerijamoric.com/en. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 lot of love and taste.QJ‑2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) trekking, paragliding, free climbing and the auda- - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A 78 54 21, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - cious adrenaline zip line right over the river. If you crave 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. something on wheels, then there is ATV or Quad safari on the islands of Čiovo near Split. It is here that the new Flea market Studio Naranča discipline of Deep Water Soloing can be attempted also. & street art Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at The islands are best known for cycling tours, diving, it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting and kayaking at sea. Bol on Brač is particularly known Art market @ Prokurative exhibits by Croatian and international artists and partici- as a destination for kite and wind surfing. The thrill is Head to the Prokurative and you’re bound to bump pating in the local art scene.QJ‑2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. real we tell you! into the city’s creative individuals and organisa- (+385-21) 34 41 18, [email protected], Last but not least, for something more tranquil there tions. Lots of goodies to buy, events and perfor- www.studionaranca.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed are wellness centres with vast services including (mas- mances to see, themed art exhibits and oenological Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A sage, sauna, swimming pools, jacuzzi and spas) which tastings!QI‑2, Prokurative (Trg Republike). Thu, Fri, can be found within the five star hotels and resorts Sat, Sun Open 10:00 - 23:00. which are in the vicinity of Split. Croatian design So there’s plenty to do from leisure to adventure, pick ,n, Strossmayer Park (Đardin) Arterija choose and enjoy the cruise! You never know what you can find but by attending Style, appeal, and much to reveal! Arterija is a fashion de- this flea market it gives visitors a real atmosphere of sign store that has become one of the cult-like boutiques Split’s inhabitants and how they breathe and sleep. when it comes to clothing, jewellery and accessories in instagram.com/ See from old objects, coins, ornaments, books, mag- Split. Owner Gorana Gulišija updates her collection regu- croatiaiyp azines and other rare things that are up for sale. The larly and she also promotes the works of some of Croa- fair becomes especially popular and lively during the tia’s best designers. Modern yet avant-garde, pop in for a twitter.com/ summer months, when the city is flooded with tour- visit as you just might find a surprise or two. Fashion with ists from all over the world.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. passion!QI‑2, Morpurgova poljana 1, tel. (+385-) 091 inyourpocket 547 71 41. Open 10:00-21:00. 70 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 71 Shopping

Croata Think Pink Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 08:30 - 22:00.QI‑2, that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26, thinkpinksplit@ Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 22:30. J ­A to showcase local heritage. Also at Mihovilova širina 7 (Voćni trg).QJ‑2, Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+385- 21) 58 25 28, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun Delicatessen 09:00 - 14:00. A Blato 1902 Wine, olive oil, brandy and rakija (grappa) from the Blato Get get get 1902 company derive from the island of Korčula.QD‑2, One store that has ‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is Domovinskog rata 31, [email protected], www. a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group blato1902.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products. Closed Sun. A The works of academic painters, photographers, archi- tects and others are presented.QJ‑2, Dominisova 16, Dobro jutro tel. (+385-21) 34 10 15, [email protected], www. Titled ‘good morning’, this bakery is chock block with cus- getgetget.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 tomers thanks to its tasty fresh bread, local pastries and - 18:00. A cakes such as sirnica, kroštule and more. They also have fresh goats milk.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 31, tel. (+385- Koza unikati 21) 38 22 45, [email protected]. Open 06:00 - The Zoričić family create, design and produce beautiful 21:00, Sun 06:30 - 13:30. and timeless male and female first-class leather bags, wal- lets, purses and belts. All materials are natural and some of Enoteka Terra the products are made on the classic ‘Singer sewing ma- A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality interna- chine’ and without electricity. It doesn’t get much more tional and Croatian wines such as Pošip or Plavac mali, authentic than that!QI‑2, Zadarska ulica 6, tel. (+385-) champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gas- 099 253 14 69, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - tronomic delicacies.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A (+385-21) 31 48 00, [email protected], www. vinoteka.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Ledenko Closed Sun. A Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail hand- made Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be Gligora the winning formula for that special occasion.QD‑2/I‑1, Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It Kačićeva 7, tel. (+358-21) 48 67 53/(+385-) 091 444 43 produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised chees- 05, [email protected], www.ledenko.hr. Open 09:00 - es.QD‑3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-21) 27 42 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A 59, [email protected], www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A shopping malls Judita - gourmet & wine shop Set in the heart of historical Split, the stone walls of the CIty Center one ancient city create the perfect setting for top class Dalma- QVukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, info-st@ tian wines and the finest virgin olive oil.QJ‑2, Marulićeva citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Open 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 47, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June 01 - August 31 Open 09:00 - 09:00 - 22:00. A 22:00. Kraš Joker Centre Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/ winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and (+385-21) 39 69 10, [email protected], www. Griotte!QI‑2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38, joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. [email protected], www.kras.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A MALL OF SPLIT QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/ Nadalina (+385-21) 39 69 10, [email protected], www. Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and chocolate joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, lavender or almonds are what makes these so special. And delicious, 72 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com Shopping Shopping

may we add!QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 35 53 84/(+385-) 091 210 88 89, [email protected], www. nadalina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A

Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 21:00. QJ‑2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, [email protected], www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

Orao A little Dalmatian sensation located away from the main road, but don’t let that discourage you! Authentic prosciut- Dancing Bear clothing design, as well as product design followed by to and cheese from the Šibenik and Zadar County which Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia that ceramics in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work has can be bought in whole pieces or sliced.QD‑2, Domovin‑ represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane, Cold helped her gain a reputation as one of the astute Croa- skog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21) 31 55 00. Open 08:00 - 12:00, Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and many tian artists in the field of ceramics. 16:30-19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A more. Their stores offer many records featuring local and international artists.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385- Jewellery by Ida Stipčić Jakšić Pipi 21) 34 43 09, [email protected], www. One of the jewels of the Croatian Designer scene is Ida Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe dancingbear.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A Stipčić Jakšić who has over the last decade engaged this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked herself in jewellery. Through use of semi-precious stones its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long Morpurgo and silver which she gathers from her husband’s family history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi Enter the oldest book store in the world and take in its his- tradition of stone processing, each copy is unique and has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia, tory. At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish immigrant hand-processed down to the last detail. Her artistic qual- and especially the Dalmatian region.QD‑2, P.I.Čajkovskog opened this store 150 years ago on Split’s National Square; ity has been recognised by Croatian art institutions and 1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 62, [email protected], in its jubilee, the city commemorates this milestone and last year Jakšić had a major exhibition at the Mimara www.dalmacijavino.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00. A this man’s willingness to promote Croatian literature, and Museum in Zagreb. You can find her gems at the Jakšić find a meeting place for the cultured.QI‑2, Narodni trg Gallery, Bribirska 10. Split Tea House 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68 43, [email protected]. Open Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, oolong tea etc. Nered Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable Sheik antique! Wonderful decorative items from cushions, prices.QI‑2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58, greeting cards, bags, ceramics and hundreds of other [email protected], www.kucacaja-split.hr. Open products all made as a result of an individual approach 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A to each. Antea and Jovana take vintage household items only to restore and redesign them, giving them a new life Vinoteka Viola and context.QJ‑2, Dominisova 2, tel. (+385-) 099 194 Located in the heart of Split, this wine store won’t 92 48, [email protected], www.neredshop.com. leave you disappointed. Here you will be able to find Open 09:00 - 21:00. A and sample a wide range of superb wines that will surely deepen your love for vino!QD‑2, Ulica Ivana Gundulića 36, tel. (+385-21) 48 01 13, info@vinoteka- Specialty viola.com, www.vinoteka-viola.com. Open 08:00 - Havana Cigar Shop 20:00. Closed Sun. A Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up, dudes.QI‑2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, split@ havana-cigar-shop.com, www.havana-cigar-shop.com. Souvenirs Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Atelier Perajica Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three genera- tions of photographers have kept their family studio here, Affordable Art amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split Bowls, Cups and Plates by nostalgic and modern. There’s also a wonderful collection Lidia Boševski of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace.QJ‑2, Peris‑ If you would like to include a unique bowl, cup or plate til bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@atelierperajica. in your home collection, then visit the GetGetGet com, www.atelierperajica.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Concept Store at Dominisova 16. After completing a 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A degree in Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and 74 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 75 Shopping Hotels As SYMBOL key QE‑1, Kopilica 8a, tel. (+385-21) 36 61 00, fax (+385- 21) 36 61 11, [email protected], www.hotelas- | c r o a t i a n s h o e manufacturer | P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted split.com. doubles 800kn. P ­i ­A ­R ­L ­G ­B ­K ­ X­W hhh The Borovo Company is the caoutchouc that is also produced O Casino H Conference facilities best-known shoe manufacturer in in the factory. Following the idea T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled Bellevue Croatia, having the longest tradi- of unique quality shoes, Borovo QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 74 99, tion, heritage and love towards designers create simple yet mod- F Fitness centre L Guarded parking fax (+385-21) 36 23 86, rezervacije@hotel-bellevue- shoes. Founded in 1931, with ern cozy footwear that is crafted split.hr, www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. doubles €83 - headquarters located in , R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly with special care and love by at 107. P ­i ­A ­6 ­L ­B ­K ­X ­W h h h during the past 85 years, Borovo least 20 caring hands. has built its identity not only in The Big Blue K Restaurant J Old town location Consul Croatia but in the entire region by D Sauna C Swimming pool producing stylish, urban, casual QD‑2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30, fax and sports footwear. I Fireplace W Wifi (+385-21) 34 01 33, [email protected], www. Materials used in production hotel-consul.net. doubles €120. P ­i ­H ­A ­6 ­L ­ are all of the natural origins such B Outside seating G ­B ­K ­W h h h as leather, 100% cotton canvas Brands like Startas, Borosana, and natural rubber made from Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and Dujam My Ballerinas The Big Blue are modern and stylish 5 Stars QE‑2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25, fax shoes for different generations and Atrium (+385-21) 27 30 81, [email protected], www. lifestyles. Startas Pink unicorn QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, hoteldujam.com. doubles €84 - 94. P ­i ­H ­A ­U ­ has been featured in Startas sneakers are entirely fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, [email protected], www. L ­G ­K ­W h h h fashion magazine Vogue. handmade, vegan, with coolest designs. hotel-atrium.hr. doubles 1650kn. P ­Z ­i ­O ­H ­A ­ BOROVO STORES IN SPLIT R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­K ­D ­C ­w ­W h h h h h Peristil Krešimirova 3 croatian souvenir QJ‑2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32 90 Ruđera Boškovića 15 www.borovo.hr 70, fax (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil. 4 Stars com, www.hotelperistil.com. doubles €135 - 162. Art Hotel P ­i ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­K ­X ­W h h h Monograph of Matko Trebotić QD‑2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02, fax A lavish edition of Summa Mediterranea (with around (+385-21) 30 23 00, [email protected], www.arthotel. 300 reproductions of the author’ works of art in colour, hr. doubles €135 - 170. P ­i ­H ­A ­R ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­ Hostels graphics, drawing and photography) as dedicated to the K ­D ­w ­W h h h h Golly&Bossy artwork of painter Matko Trebotić, one of the most influ- QI‑2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 51 09 ential and important Croatian artists. This monograph can Marmont 99, [email protected], www.gollybossy.com. 87 be found in the museum shop of the Split Gallery of Fine QI‑2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/(+385) 091 129 dorm beds, 27 - 33€ per person. P ­J ­H ­A ­G ­B ­ Arts, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, and is written by art his- 01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel. K ­W torian Viktor Žmegač. com, www.marmonthotel.com. doubles €340. P ­i ­ A ­R ­L ­G ­B ­K ­X ­W h h h h Silver Gate Replicas of wooden sculptures and QD‑3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-) reproductions of works on wood by Radisson Blu Resort 099 282 38 44, [email protected], www. Vasko Lipovac QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21) silvergatehostel.com. 4 Total rooms 26 dorm beds, Head to the Vasko Lipovac Atelier on Vukovarska 8a for 30 30 31, [email protected], www.radissonblu. 17 - 25€ per person. P ­J ­R ­N ­G ­W this Croatian / Montenegrins opus. Lipovac worked relent- Wooden Sculptures by Neno Mikulić, Atelier Mikulić Archives com/resort-split. doubles €175 - 325. P ­i ­T ­H ­A ­ lessly from 1990 - 2006 at this very location which holds R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­C ­w ­W h h h h Split Hostel Booze and Snooze over 1000 sculptures, many of which were made from QI‑2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@ wood. His studio was his mecca, his haven and by taking Vestibul Palace splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. 16 dorm one step inside, Lipovac’s passion for the Mediterranean QJ‑2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax beds, 17 - 27€ per person. P ­N ­G ­W becomes evidently clear. In many ways, his works are a (+385-21) 32 93 33, [email protected], www. small but significant part of Split’s artistic history and offer. vestibulpalace.com. doubles €395. P ­Z ­i ­T ­J ­A ­ Sunseekers R ­L ­G ­B ­K ­W h h h h QI‑2, Poljana stare gimnazije 1, tel. (+385-) 091 291 Wooden sculptures by Neno Mikulić 21 27, [email protected]. 18 dorm beds, 15 - 30€ per Atelier Mikulić Teslina 14b, is home to multitudes of person. P ­J ­N ­G ­W wooden sculptures made by the artist himself. They evoke 3 Stars a sense of Dalmatia as many natural surroundings and city Adriana Tchaikovsky Hostel folk can be seen as his driving force and inspiration, along QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. QD‑2, Ulica Petra Iliča Čajkovskog 4, tel./fax (+385- with some Mediterranean humour. From sailors, boats and (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@hotel- 21) 31 71 24 tel. (+385-) 099 195 04 44, info@t-hostel. fish to Franciscan monks, old ladies and seagulls; these are adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. doubles 614 - 1214kn. com, www.t-hostel.com. 20 dorm beds, 15 - 25€ per Necklace silver and citrine by Ida Stipčić Jakšić, Jakšić Gallery Archives just some of the motives Mikulić carves and polishes! P ­i ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­K ­X ­W h h h person. P ­J ­A ­G ­W 76 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 77

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