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HoROLOGICAL TIMES January 2004

American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute Master Crown ASSORTMENT Smaller Size Crowns for Quartz SALE

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~ c ~~11 noer & Go national phone orders: fax orders (24 hrs): ~nl ~ .u ItS . 1-800-328-0205 1-800-548-9304 1165 Medallion Drive • Saint Paul, MN 55120 local phone orders: local fax: 80 Years Young-And Growing 651-452-7180 651-452-4298 VOLUME 28 HoROLOGICAL ~ NUMBER1 CONTENTS JANUARY 2004 TIMES

An Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute FEATURE ARTICLES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultrathin, By John Davis 12 AWl, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 or (513) 367-9800 Alarms of American Mantel , Part 2, By David J. LaBounty 20 Fax: (513) 367-1414 Disaster Planning, By Linda Chrysler E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awi-net.org 24 Office Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Closed National Holidays COLUMNS Donna K. Baas: Managing Editor, Advertising Manager Katherine J. Ortt: Associate Editor, Layout/Design Associate Rock Quarry, By Fred S. Burckhardt 18 James E. Lubic, CMW: Executive Director & As A Clockmaker Turns, By J. M. Huckabee 28 Education & Technical Director Lucy Fuleki: Assistant Executive Director The Clockmaker and His Lathe, Part 6 Thomas J. Pack, CPA: Finance Director Laurie Penman: Instructor Nancy L. Wellmann: Education Coordinator DEPARTMENTS Sharon McManus: Membership Coordinator Mary Huff: Shipping Coordinator President's Message, By Jack Kurdzionak 2 Heather Kyde: Receptionist/Secretary Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic Steve Jones: Audiovisual Manager 2 Gary Richards: AWl-ELM Trust Development Director Questions & Answers, By David A Christianson 4 HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE Ask Huck, By J. M. Huckabee 6 James Sadilek: Chairman Lloyd Lehn, CC Letters to the Editor 8 Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW Robert D. Porter, CMW Bulletin Board 19

AWl OFFICERS AWl New Members 23 Jack Kurdzionak, CW: President Jim Door: First Vice President AWl Material Search/Movement Bank 27 Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Secretary From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 32 Mark Butterworth: Treasurer Affiliate Chapter Report, By Glenn D. Gardener 34 AWl DIRECTORS Henry Frystak, CMW Member Benefit Spotlight, By Lucy Fuleki 36 Roland (Ron) Iverson, CMC Robert D. Porter, CMW AWl-ELM Trust Update, By Gary Richards 42 James Sadilek Dennis Warner Classified Advertising 44 Manuel Jean Yazijian Advertisers' Index James K. Zimme rman, CMW , CMC, CMEW 48 Glenn D. Gardner, CMW: Affiliate Chapter Director AWl Employee Directory 48 Joseph Juaire: Research & Education Council Director Tony Riggio, CMW: Industry Advisory Board Director EDUCATION IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT Robert D. Porter, CMW AWl Home Study Course in Clock Repair 16 FELLOW - American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute AWl Evening Classes in Clock and Watch Repair 22 Robert F. Bishop ·Harold J. Herman James H. Broughton J.M. Huckabee AWl Bench Courses 41 Fred S. Burckhardt Gerald G. Jaeger David A. Christianson Benjamin Matz George Daniels Robert A. Nelson SPECIAL INTEREST Wes Door ·Hamilton E. Pease ·Henry B. Fried Archie B. Perkins AWl Health & Benefit Solution Program 17 Josephine F. Hagans William 0. Smith, Jr. ·Orville R. Hagans Milton C. Stevens AWl Directors' E-mail Address Directory 19 Ewell D. Hartman ·Marvin E. Whitney AWl Members Achieve Certification 35 'Deceased Motions from the Certification & Education Committees 38 Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written pennisslon from the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers lnstnute. Copyright ©2004 by the Ameri­ can Watchmakers-Ciockmakers lns!Hute.

COVER This month's cover features the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultrathin President's Message Jack Kurdzionak, CW

On behalf of the Board of Directors, the management, and staff of the Institute, our wishes to all of our members for a happy and prosperous New Year. This first message of the year consists of three announce­ ments. First, AWl's annual meeting and convention will be held at the Sheraton hotel in South Portland, Maine next August. Next, our second vice president, Frank Poye, has resigned his position as an officer and director. Third, Jim Lubic and our legal counsel, Scott Gilligan, have resolved a possible trademark dispute concerning our certifications. I will explain each of these announcements. Last year, Jim Lubic suggested that we consider moving the annual meeting every other year to a new location thus bringing the meeting to a different segment of our membership to encourage greater attendance from this broader base. We studied a number of potential locations in the Northeast before choosing Portland as the best location. The Sheraton hotel is two miles from the Portland Jetport, four miles from the Amtrak station, and on an exit for 1-95. The hotel management has made every effort to meet our requirement and has offered us a package that is comparable in price to what we have paid in the Cincinnati area. Portland is within one-day's drive of major population centers in the northeast, is Maine's largest city (pop. 65,000), within a two-hour drive from Boston, and one hour from New Hampshire's White Mountains with its tax free shopping. Portland's historic seaport is minutes away from the hotel and Maine's famous seafood is everywhere. The hotel is across the street from Maine's largest shopping mall and twenty minutes away from LL Bean's flagship store in Freeport. We have several talented clock and watch makers from New England who are going to participate in our educational programs with all new presentations. Plan now to attend this August 5-8 meeting. We hope that you will arrive early or stay late to combine a vacation with this meeting. Remember, this meeting is not just for members, but their spouses, guests, and friends. Please make your arrangements early. Maine is the place to be in August with its mild weather and closeness to just about everything you wish for a vacation destination. Watch the pages of HT for more details. We welcome to our Board of Directors, the runner up in last years's election, Ron Iverson, who has agreed to replace Frank Poye as director. According to our parliamentarian, we are not required to fill Frank's position as second VP. It will remain vacant until the annual election of officers. A few months ago, we learned that a few people were improperly using AWI' s trademark of Certified Watchmaker without ever having taken and passed our examination for that certification. They claimed they were certified by virtue of being graduates of a private school. Our legal counsel communicated with the school and has received documentation that the school recognizes our right to the trademark and will not issue any certificate that violates our trademark. AWI will take appropriate steps to prevent the unauthorized use of our trademarks. Only Certified AWl members are entitled to use our trademarked Certification titles and AWl will protect its member's rights to those trademarks.

Executive Director's Message James E. Lubic, CMW

Have a healthy and prosperous New Year. This month I'm going to encourage everyone to take care of their health. As we all know, without our health we have nothing. I don't want to preach nor do I want to get too personal, but we all need to take care of our health. As we get older we all put off having tests that we don't think are necessary because "that couldn't happen to me." Well I'm here to tell you that it can, because it happened to me. Luckily, like many of you, I have a wife who can be a little ah ... shall I say pushy sometimes. Well thank goodness I do. Not quite 5 years ago I turned 40 years old. I had some "minor" health issues that my wife encouraged (nagged) me to take care of. Finally I went to the doctor for a complete physical. The next thing I knew I was seeing one specialist and then another, and before I knew it I had my first colonoscopy. I'm here to tell you almost 5 years later and about 6 colonoscopy's later, and just now recovering from having the right side of my colon removed, that I'm dam glad that my wife loves me, and that the medical profession has the technology to do what they can do. I can honestly say that if I hadn't had that first test almost 5 years ago that I most likely would not be here today. The test really isn't that bad, especially when you think of the alternative. If nothing is found then you (and your wife) are worry free. If they do find something then it is usually soon enough that the cure isn't too bad either. Personally I would have felt like a fool if I would have had to fight a life-threatening disease that was preventable through simple testing. Don't ignore your family health history, and don't put off having necessary preventive tests. They really do save your life. Thanks Teresa, I love you.

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Phone: 419-243-3720 800-472-0200 800-537-0343 Wm. S.• McCaw Company Fax:419-243-0321 Since 1913 800-245-6481 1722 Madison Avenue [email protected] Toledo, Ohio 43624 Questions & Answers

Question Could you please give me any their own unique " W" logos. Glycine I picked up a unique pocket available information about this pocket uses a 3-pointed crown that looks like watch in Europe (Ukraine). It is a l4kt watch? If you need any other details, a "W"; Longines' winged hour glass gold case. It has jumping hour and please request. and Breitling's winged anchor resemble minute, and second hand at 6. On the Jaroslav Bossak, a "W", but they all proudly place their movement there is an inscription Edmonton, Alberta, Canada name with their logo, also. "LUDWIG SIMON BERLIN". The I.W. Inc. on the case back G.T,M. Answer of your watch brings to mind IWC­ On the inside cover there are Please excuse the long delay Schaffhausen, but it's not theirs either, other markings (I hope you can see on in answering your inquiry on theW­ although they do make a style similar. the picture), but I will try to describe in watch, but I was waiting for an opin­ Tony Riggio of Tourneau case it is hard to see. Top left comer, ion from Tony Riggio of Toumeau in agrees. As far as he and his seems to be a squirrel. There is 0,585, New York to go along with my own. organizaiton can tell, your watch is a emblem 56114k. On left center, is a He said that their Chicago store had private label or unknown independent, circle with a crown inside. On the seen two just like it. So ... here it goes: certainly not a major producer. crown, there is a cross. On right cen­ My guess is that your watch, David A. Christianson, ter, there is an eagle with J P initials with its 3-meter case and its ETA 2824/ CMw, CMEW, FAWI, under. Bottom center case: 294347 25 jewel movement is a generic model. Technical Editor 11 I can't find anyone using just a "W" as 0 The back outside cover is en­ its logo. Those that do use a "W", graved in old Russian. Translated it is: Wittnauer and Wyler, proudly place their (in memory from brother) name along with their own variation of

4 Horological Times • January 2004 For the Latest in Watchmaker's Tools & Parts .Jittrel visit JulesBorel.com, click on products .Jitt~•el New Recharger for Selko Kinetics

Newly designed by for their Kinetic line of watches. For models: 1M, 3M, 4M, SM, 5J, 7L, 9T. Accelerates the charging of run-down Kinetic watches. - Useful to charge up watches for sale. - To quickly charge up customers watches that have come in stopped. - Resale to Kinetic customers who don't wear their watch often enough to keep charged. Position watch in the center, aligning crown properly depending on model. Timer switch can be set to either the 30 minute or the 3.5 hour mode, depending on whether you desire a quick charge to bring up to the 1 second mode, or a full charge. Press start. Measures approx. 6 x 6". The initial deliveries of this new item are very limited. Please allow 3-6 weeks. #TS-SKenetic $ 49.00, 3pcs. @ $ 45.00 ea.

Swiss, Stainless-Steel Multi-Ball Bearing Screwdrivers Treat yourself to the ultimate in smooth rotation

8 pc. Screwdriver Set 12 pc. Screwdriver Set with new style, These set-screw type screwdrivers have stainless steel bod­ ies and color-coded non-rolling anodized aluminum ball­ easy access bearing heads. Includes sizes: 50, .60, .70, .80, 1.00, stand 1.20, 1.40, 1.50, 1.60, 2.00, 2.50, & 3mm, and 21 spare blades. Very heavy-duty, gray colored, rotating base has blade storage area in the center. Includes sizes .50, .80, 1.00, 1.20, 1.40, 1.60, 2.00, SD-M201 C $ 159.00 2.50mm. Set-screw type, with stainless steel bodies and color coded, anodized aluminum, hex heads. Set of 5, In a Plastic Pouch (not shown) Sizes .60, .80, 1.00, 1.20, 1.40. SD-M201 B $ 28.50 SD-189770 $ 69.00 Jules Borel & Co. Order Desk 800-776-6858 1110 Grand Boulevard Order FAX 800-776-6862 KansasCity,MO 64106-2348 Local 816-421-6110 Ask Huck

J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

Soft Solder on Clock Plates Bushings Soft Soldered in Place Question Someone reported that you can re­ Question move tin-lead solder from clock plates. How What do you do about a bushing soft do you do it? soldered into a clock plate? Can it be removed? If so, then what do you do? Answer I'm afraid "someone" over spoke my Answer skills. We cannot take away all of the Yes, solder on the plates of a clock damage, but we can do a clean-up job that movement is one of the most repulsive things reduces the damage. we encounter. It is almost impossible to re­ I strip the plate, hold it over a soft flame, move it completely. and push the bushing out with a wire pointer. Many stories have come my way; all The bushing is probably not tight, or there is no of which will remove the solder to some ex­ need for the solder. tent, but none are anywhere near perfect. Next, I wipe the area with a damp cloth My method works pretty good on flat while the heat is just above the solder melting surfaces; better than many reported tech­ point. Tum the plate over, and continue. An niques, but it does not work on complex pieces. abrasive pad helps to clean up the area. Let's imagine solder on a movement A soldered-in-place bushing is not likely plate. I remove all loose pieces, hold the plate to be on exact location; check that out and in­ over a soft flame of a propane torch. As the stall a new press-fit bushing. solder begins to melt, wipe it quickly with a You can greatly improve the job, but damp rag. The rag chills, and moves away you probably cannot hope to completely take the solder. away all evidence of previous damage. The heat, and wet wipe leaves the It behooves each of us to day-by-day solder a white color on the plate, with essen­ search for "a better way" to do our jobs. What tially no depth. Repeat as needed. Then I use we do with our customer's property is "the a Scotch-Brite Scour Pad (a 3-M Product) to trademark of our skills and business." rub off the remainder. 0 On complex pieces, use the same method and brush away the solder with a moist brush. I use an old whisk broom. This is less successful than "rag on flat" surfaces.

6 Horological Times • January 2004 The American Watch Guild announces the creation of the

tf~~ ~ International Watch Collectors Society The Society will provide its members with the following

• Calendar of major watch sales & auctions. Antiquorum, Christie's, Phillips & Sotheby's The previews of upcoming auctions. Reports: photographs, prices and auction results. • Announcements from significant watch firms of new releases and limited editions. • Information about emerging new master watchmakers and their creations • Establishment of regional chapters where the collectors can meet and have guest speakers from noteworthy watchmaking factories. • Question and Answer service by Stewart Unger, noted watch authority & author. • Annual meeting at the Concours d'Elegance at the summer Jewelers of America Show held at the Javits Center in New York. • A book club. • Plus Free Booklets: How to Buy a Watch (and its Functions) The Care and Service of Timepieces Where to Find the World's Finest Watches How to Detect a Counterfeit Watch

Membership 1 year- $65 2 years - $120 6 Issues of Collectors Comer per year Invitation to the Concours d'Elegance

Master Collector 1 year~ $120 2 years~ $220 the above plus: 10% discount from the Book Club Rebate coupons from Manufacturers

Membership Application Name______~Ph one ______Address.______City ______State Zip: _ ___

Make check payable to: International Watch Collectors Society, LLC 244 Madison Ave., #258 New York, NY 10016 • Fax: 516~374~5060 All letters to the editor must be signed and bear the address and telephone number of the writer. Your address and telephone number will not be published without your permission. A WI reserves the right to edit letters for length and content. All letters should be concerning the Institute and/or issues specific to the field of horology. Please send your letter via: E-mail: [email protected]; Fax (513) 367-1414 or mail to Horological Times, "Letters to the Editor," 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696.

Dear Editor: programs, in an attempt to cater to the enforce and protect the "certified Please fmd enclosed my check Swiss watchmaking industry. watchmaker" service mark. Do you in the amount of $74 as payment for think I could get away with it if I set up my annual membership in AWL I Allow me to address each of these a business and advertised my services thought twice about writing my AWI areas of concern. as a Certified Public Accountant or check this year, and wanted to share Certified Financial Planner if I did not the concerns that led to that trepida­ Service Mark Protection: actually hold those credentials? Cer­ tion. I belong to the AWl as part of the All one need do to see this tainly not. Yet businesses can adver­ proud tradition of American watchmak­ problem firsthand is visit your local tise "certified watch repair" and con­ ing yet I see this organization ... my mall. If it's anything like the malls I visit, tinue to operate with impunity. organization ... catering more and you will find a kiosk advertising "Cer­ more to the special interests of the tified Watch Repair." The smartly Access to Parts: Swiss watchmaking industry at the dressed young man or woman behind The independent American expense of the independent American the counter, usually around 18-20 years watchmaker is the very core of the watchmaker that represents the very of age, will gladly put a new battery in AWI, yet when it comes to the critical core of everything the AWI was and your watch, and it might even work problem of the Swiss conglomerates should be again. In particular, three when they're finished. When I have cutting off the supply of parts to the areas jump out at me as prime approached these "watchmakers" and independent watchmaker, the AWI has examples of this: asked them about their advertised "cer­ first waffled in its position; and then tification" they look at me with a taken a stance that we need to "work I. The minimal and ineffective ef­ puzzled expression. When I ask them with and cooperate with" the Swiss. forts by the AWI to protect and en­ "Who certifies you?" the answer is We should work with and cooperate hance AWI service marks. "Oh ... our company does." with the Swiss conglomerates only so 2. The complete lack of any con­ See there are two problems at far as they are willing to work with and certed effort to ensure that indepen­ work here: the first is that the Ameri­ cooperate with the AWl! dent American watchmakers continue can consumer doesn't know or under­ The AWI should take a clear to have access to repair parts. stand the value of a "real" certified and unequivocal position that the free­ 3. The misguided changes that have watchmaker. The second problem is flow of replacement parts to qualified been made to the AWI certification that the AWl isn't doing anything to watchmakers is essential and should be

8 Horological Times • January 2004 a "price of admission" for those com­ seldom repair quartz watches, as there the industry-controlling Swiss watch panies who wish to have access to are many other choices available to conglomerates are teaching in their American markets, and that the AWl customers for their modem and quartz bought-out educational programs, and will actively pursue all available mecha­ watches. Through my web site, I at­ those that are "in-demand" for the fac­ nisms to guarantee that its members tract customers from all over the coun­ tory service technicians we keep hear­ have access to parts. Then we should try who are looking for repair and res­ ing are so desperately needed. So in­ put some teeth into these words through toration of their vintage mechanical stead of fighting for the rights of the a concerted program of education, con­ timepieces, and I have served hundreds independent American watchmaker, gressional lobbying, and formal com­ of satisfied customers who were the AWl has, with these changes, fur­ plaints to the appropriate governmen­ thrilled to find someone with the skills ther become an organ for the Swiss tal trade bodies. That is what trade and material to repair their watches, watch industry. organizations do: They act to pro­ many of which are "family treasures." 2. By enacting these changes tect the interests of the tradespeople That's the business I have chosen to without any transition period, you have they represent. focus on, and I have no desire to be­ completely failed to recognize that come a Rolex repair person in the there are AWl members who are cur­ Certification: employ of some major jewelry store or rently engaged in a course of study and While it is important that AWI Rolex service center (for example). For a path to certification based on the pre­ continually reassess the value of the the past two years, I have concentrated vious long-standing requirements for service marks they administer, and my study, using the guidelines pre­ that certification. To suddenly change work to stay abreast of current indus­ sented by AWI and using study mate­ all the rules and requirements in mid­ try trends and needs, the recently (and rials purchased from AWI, on a path stream is patently unfair and does a rapidly!) enacted changes do a disser­ leading toward CMW certification. The great disservice to those members. In vice to many current AWI members changes to the certification process any educational institution, once a and make the certification process which have just been approved make course of study is put forward, then stu­ more difficult at the very time when it far less likely that I will continue to dents who have embarked upon this AWI should be looking for ways to pursue that path. course of study are allowed to finish it streamline the process and thus en­ no matter what changes may take courage more watchmakers to apply In particular the recently adopted place in the curriculum. Would it be rea­ for AWI certification. When I say changes fail in three main areas. sonable for a student enrolled in a uni­ "streamline the process" I am NOT 1. By eliminating the CEWT versity degree program to find out dur­ saying that the AWI should be making and CMEW service marks, and com­ ing their senior year that the require­ it easier for someone to obtain a given bining the requirements for those cer­ ments for their degree had suddenly level of certification. What I am say­ tifications with the CW and CMW ser­ changed and that they would have to ing is that the recent changes impose vice marks, you have failed to recog­ pursue a new course of study in order unnecessary obstacles for the very nize that there are watchmakers who to complete their degree? Of course it people that AWI should be most inter­ focus their work on mechanical wouldn't! Yet the AWl thinks nothing ested in certifying. I am one of those watches. This "one-size-fits-all" ap­ of doing the very same thing to those people. proach to certification caters entirely of us who have been studying for sev­ My background and training to the modem (Swiss) watch industry eral years towards completion of the are as an engineer and computer sci­ and its "part-swapping" mind set. Com­ CW or CMW certificates (not to men­ entist. I took up watchmaking about 5 bining the CW and CEWT service tion those who were studying for the years ago, first as a hobby; then as a marks suggests that one cannot be a CEWT and CMEW exams). And to part-time business, and now as a nearly "complete" watchmaker in the eyes of make it even worse, now you have full-time occupation. I have learned the AWI without a high-level of skill in imposed a "no certification" period dur­ my skills through the evening Horol­ both mechanical and quartz watches. ing which no exams and certifications ogy program at North Seattle Commu­ That is clearly not the case, and com­ will be given, while you sort out all the nity College, through hundreds of hours bining these service marks makes it changes in the curricula. Does that re­ of hard work and self-study, and par­ increasingly difficult for someone to ally seem like a well thought-out and ticularly through the generous tutelage specialize in mechanical repair and res­ fair approach? of a local watchmaker (active in the toration which are the very foundations 3. By changing the testing re­ AWl) who has so willingly shared his of American watchmaking. It is not quirements so that candidates must time and knowledge with me. I have coincidence that the skills being travel either to AWI facilities or some chosen to focus my work on mechani­ emphasized under the new certifica­ as yet unspecified testing location, you cal repair and restoration. I very tion regime are those very skills that impose an unnecessary financial and

January 2004 • Horological Times 9 time burden on candidates. This is an­ more difficult for the independent by both industry and the public at large. other change that caters solely to the watchmaker to become certified, by not AWI is currently working diligent! y to Swiss watch industry and the educa­ protecting the value of the service strengthen that recognition by making tional programs they have "bought out" mark, by not rigorously insisting on the changes in the exams so the skills and at various locations throughout the continued supply of parts, and by tai­ knowledge tested are relevant to the country. This requirement also ignores loring the certification process to the present day watch and clock industry. the fact that a watchmaker should take Swiss-controlled schools which are At the same time we are encouraging the certification test with their own nothing more than the private training those who wish to certify their skills as tools and resources in their own shop, facilities for the Swiss watch conglom­ a traditional watch or clock maker by under the supervision of an appropri­ erates. administering examinations which ate AWl proctor. Under the new re­ As an independent American watch­ focus upon our rich heritage. quirements, I will be forced to travel to maker and an active AWl member, I AWI headquarters in order to take the expect better of my trade organization. Your next concern has to do with CMW exam. So in addition to the ex­ I encourage ... no, I implore you ... to spare parts: pense of the lost work time that is revisit the fundamental tenets of our AWI is very well aware and required to actually take a multi-day organization, the very mission that concerned about the restrictive policies exam, you are now adding the should guide all of our activities, and of some watch companies in their spare significant expense of travel and realign the efforts of the A WI part distribution. Our attorney advised accommodations to that already non­ to better support the needs of all us that, in his opinion, the watch com­ trivial financial burden. For many, that American watchmakers. panies were not in violation of the law. is simply not an option. You have placed Douglas Stuart Legal action against any watch com­ yet another obstacle in my path, and I, Bellevue, WA pany was not advisable in his opinion. like many others, may decide that AWI Spare parts are not only an American certification simply isn't worth the time, issue, but a European one as well. expense, and effort. Clearly, that is not Dear Mr. Stuart: Many of the watch companies which a good choice for American watchmak­ First of all I would like to thank restrict spare parts here also restrict ing or for the AWI. you for taking the time to write such a their distribution in Europe and even in well organized and direct letter. I am Switzerland. Independent watchmak­ In Conclusion: sure that other members have the same ers in Switzerland cannot obtain parts At this critical juncture in the questions. for watches manufactured in their American watch industry, I would con­ Our certification designations home country. tend that the AWl needs watchmak­ are officially registered in the United How can AWl help its mem­ ers more than watchmakers need the States Patent and Trademark Office. bers? A committee has been appointed AWl... especially when I see the di­ This registration gives us the ability to to survey all of the major watch com­ rections the organization is taking. Our enforce who uses our designations. In panies in order to learn the policy of declining membership and increasing order to use one of our certification each company surveyed. The results average member age are clear indica­ designations in any way the user must of this survey is to be published in HT tions that the AWI is not "thriving" as have earned the right to do so by pass­ and on our web site. Our members will an organization, and is not doing enough ing one or more of our certification then know in advance the policy of to encourage new (younger) members. exams. President Kurdzionak has ad­ each watch company before he or she How many young graduates of the few dressed this subject in his message this attempts to repair a watch. It does not remaining watch repair programs see month. In order to enforce the use of make sense to repair watches for which AWl certification as a valuable goal? these certification designations AWl spare parts are not currently available. Probably none! And why is that? Be­ relies on its members and the public to AWI does communicate the concerns cause the AWI has done little to en­ inform AWI of any questionable use. I of our members to the watch manu­ sure that the AWI service marks are can honestly report that this method facturers and their USA distributors in relevant, meaningful, and attainable to seems to be working. discussions with industry representa­ those of us doing watch work in As for consumer recognition: tives. We hope that our efforts to cer­ America. I agree that this is a concern, but the tify members who have the skills and At the very time when the web is making us more visible and equipment to repair their current pr9- AWl should be taking aggressive steps easier for the public to find us and to duction watches will convince the to protect and preserve the indepen­ inquire about certifications. In order for manufacturers that AWl members dent American watchmaker, you are any certification program to be suc­ should have access to their spare parts. doing just the opposite by making it cessful, its merits must be recognized

10 Horological Times • January 2004 Your final concern has to do with changes to AWl Certification. These changes are detailed on page 38 of this TIJe International Magazine tor Clock Collectors & Restorers issue. I think that these are all very positive changes for both the watch and clock professions. We are, however, still considering changes to the delivery and monitoring system for the "Master" level exams. I hope I have answered all your questions. I also hope that you understand that AWl is working in the inter­ est of its members to move our organization and our pro­ fession forward as changing times require us to do. James E. Lubic A WI Executive Director 0

All this every month at a bargain price for AWl members: $65 (normal price $79) for the first year's subscription. Just fill in the form below and send it, along with a US$ check made out to 'Splat Publishing Ltd', to Clocks Magazine, Elizabeth House, Royal Elizabeth Yard, Dalmeny EH29 9EN, UK TeUfax: 044 131 331 J_2.!J~:~!I!~i!=_~u_b_ ~~.P~~.!'~--~~~~-"!!~~~~-~~~.: ______, I I :First name ...... Last name ...... A WI N<> •.... .•• .••..•••.••. : I I I I •Address ...... o I I I I I•...... •...... • ,...... I. I I : ...... Zipcode ...... Country ...... : I I I I :Telephone No...... Email address ...... @ ...... :

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January 2004 • Horological Times 11 The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultrathin

John Davis

Jaeger-LeCoultre is clearly one of the movement in 1903 (at only 1.38 most important manufacturers in Swiss watch­ mm thick), the company's legacy was already making, responsible for scientific and manu­ well established when the holding company of facturing breakthroughs that revolutionized the Jaeger-LeCoultre was established in 1925 in industry as well as designing and manufactur­ conjunction with Edmond Jaeger. The follow­ ing movements for the most prestigious houses ing year saw the release of the revolutionary in Switzerland. Even before the company be­ Duoplan two stage movement and in 1929 the gan manufacturing watches under their own company announced the smallest watch move­ name in 1929, the horological triumphs of ment ever: the calibre 101 (it remains the Antoine LeCoultre and the LeCoultre & Co. world's smallest mechanical movement to this atelier were many and varied. Having invented day). Jaeger-LeCoultre has never been one to the Millionometer (the first measuring instru­ rest on its laurels and the famous Atmos, ment capable of a resolution of 1/lOOOth of a Reverso, Futurematic, Memovox and mecha­ millimeter) in 1844 and a keyless winding sys­ quartz chronograph are only a few of their tem in 1847 and creating the world's thinnest other notable horological contributions. With a supreme talent for miniaturiza­ tion, it is no surprise that JLC excels in the creation of ultrathin calibres. They created the famous ultrathin manual wind calibre VC 1003/ AP 2003 widely used by Vacheron Constantin and as well as the ultrathin automatic calibre VC 1120/AP 2120/PP 28- 255 which was also used by Patek Philippe. It stands to reason that JLC's own ultrathin cali­ bre would exhibit their exceptional skill in this most challenging category. Introduced origi­ nally as the calibre 839 in 1975, updated and renamed in 1994, the calibre 849 ultrathin manual wind movement is currently available in the Master Ultrathin. The time-honored craft and precision manufacturing of JLC are still readily apparent in the details of the watch's execution, inside and out. It offers a level of quality that is excellent by any stan­ dard but simply astounding given its modest price tag.

The Exterior The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ul­ trathin featuring the Ultrathin calibre 849 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultrathin

12 Horological Times • January 2004 manual wind modern standard for dress watches), making it more than movement is at amply protected from rain or other unexpected soakings. once contempo­ This astounding level of water resistance is made rary and classic. possible by the masterfully conceived case construction While quite small that provides a great deal of strength despite its unassum­ relative to the ing shape. The sapphire crystal is tightly friction fit into a oversized watches nylon gasket and the rubber gasket under the bezel is com­ that have become pressed securely by the four screws that secure the bezel commonplace in through the case band. In addition, the bezel has two large Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultrathin recent years, at 34 semicircular tabs that fit precisely into milled out portions from the side mm in diameter it of the case band for increased rigidity. is sized perfectly The stainless steel version with the black dial is for a dress watch. Boasting a thickness of a mere 4.2 also fitted with a sapphire crystal display back held in place mm, it is available in steel, white gold or rose gold. by four screws. All the ruggedness and strength inherent The gentle curves of the (slightly domed) sap­ in the case design were somewhat undermined in this ex­ phire crystal, case, dial and hands all add to the look and ample, however, by the drastically under-tightened case feel of slender elegance that the watch creates. On the and bezel screws that were also oddly unpolished. wrist, it goes completely unnoticed by the wearer and only attracts the atten­ The Bridges tion of others for The layout its simplicity and of the calibre 849 is clean design. eminently appeal­ Lacking even a ing, timeless and second hand, it is functional. The a distillation of the four graceful essential elements bridges are se­ of a wristwatch. cured by heat blued Despite its screws with deli­ dressy demeanor, cately beveled Movement the Master Ul­ heads and cham- 3-piece case trathin exhibits a fered slots. The crown wheel and ratchet wheel are each number of func­ secured with three small screws and the nicely formed tional touches that click is held in place by a wire spring that is almost com­ render it suitable pletely hidden under the barrel bridge (the reason any part for everyday use of it is exposed is a mystery). As is sometimes seen in thin as well. For in­ movements, a couple of stance, the dau­ tall screws act as safety phine hands are pillars on either side of half frosted to al­ the balance. If the low for maximum caseback is flexed or oth­ visibility in anum­ erwise brought into con­ Back display ber of lighting situ­ tact with the movement, ations, something these screws will keep it that is especially from pressing on the bal­ Screw appreciated in ance bridge and stopping combination with a the movement. black dial. Some­ The center what miraculously wheel, third wheel and for an ultrathin fourth wheel run in jew­ mechanical eled bearings in a nicely watch, it is water curved bridge. In this ex­ resistant to 5 at­ ample, the anglage of the mospheres (3 at­ power train bridge was Caseback screws mosphere is the slightly inconsistent, as Anglage

January 2004 • Horological Times 13 traditional handwork with the lower barrel arbor pivot and its bearing in the sometimes is. The escape main plate (more on this later). wheel has its own cock The keyless works are classic Jaeger-LeCoultre and a Kif cap jewel set­ in design and execution. The levers are all straight grained ting that, combined with on top with chamfered edges and the functional surfaces the cap jewel on the dial and undersides are all smooth if not highly polished. The side of the escape wheel, clutch lever return action is assured by a shaped steel brings the jewel count to spring, a finer and more expensive solution than the wire Top plate jewel 19. The Kif springs on springs found in lesser movements. The underside of the both sides of the escape set bridge was slightly cruder than the undersides of the wheel are simply a convenient way of holding the cap clutch lever and return spring, both of which had a more jewels in place as the jewel settings are not shock consistent matte finish. While a slightly finer finish may protected (nor need they be). be found on JLC keyless levers from the middle of the All ofthe holes in the bridges have polished coun­ last century, the overall fineness of design and execution tersinks although not finished to the level of a haute de still surpasses anything that can be found in a comparably gamme timepiece. The decorative finishing on all the vis­ priced watch today. ible surfaces is similarly very well executed while just short The hand-setting and dial train wheels are all nicely of exquisite. It shows a serious commitment to tradition made and appropriately lubricated (as were the keyless and craft significantly above what can otherwise be found levers). The plate was perlaged to nice effect although its in this price range. application was a little inconsistent, allowing minor scratches to show through the circular patterns, which The Dial Side were not arranged perfectly concentrically either. Taken With the dial re­ into account with the unpolished countersinks for the jew­ moved, the bot­ els and other holes in the bottom plate, the overall impres­ tom plate shows sion is nevertheless one of high quality artisanship. off the novel ul­ trathin construc­ The Power tion with its hang­ Train ing barrel, com­ After pletely exposed removing the , through a large three screws Bottom plate hole in the plate. that attach the The hanging bar­ ratchet wheel to rel employed in the calibre 849 is only supported by the the barrel, one barrel bridge, squeezing a few more fractions of a milli­ might expect the meter out of the thickness of the movement by doing a way barrel to simply Ratchet wheel drop out through the main plate. As it turns out, the diameter of the toothed portion of the barrel drum is larger than the hole in the plate so the barrel rests nicely in the same position after the ratchet wheel is removed. This minor detail is impor­ tant when reassembling the barrel bridge as it means one doesn't have to hold the barrel in place from the other side of the movement while reattaching the ratchet Keyless works Dial side jewel wheel. The barrel in the calibre 849 is a very nice piece of work. A hanging barrel is a questionable idea from an engineering stand­ point but is something of a necessity if one wants to Set bridge Levers approach the kind of thinness Barrel

14 Horological Times • January 2004 that the calibre 849 achieves. JLC's execution of the idea a uniform matte finish, exhibiting care and precision in is quite respectable. their manufacture. The problem with a hanging barrel (or a floating The power train wheels have circular graining on or standing barrel, the difference being which side it is top and the spokes and rim are chamfered on the top side supported on) is that the barrel, as the power as well. The undersides ofthe center and third wheel have supply to the entire mechanism, generates a significant a matte finish while, curiously, the fourth wheel is circular amount of torque. When the central axis of the barrel is grained on both sides. only supported on one side, the bearing surface is sub­ jected to a considerable amount of additional lateral torque, The Escapement, and subsequently, wear. Balance and To combat this Hairspring problem, JLC has The es­ employed an inge­ capement is well niously rugged two made and mostly piece barrel arbor unremarkable ex­ that pivots on a large cept for the oddly diameter bearing sur­ shaped and oddly face both in the finished pallet lever. bridge and in the bar­ One of many de- Regulator Inside the barrel rel drum itself. The s1gn decisions larger bearing sur­ made to minimize face spreads the additional stress and wear over a larger the thickness of the movement, most of the pallet lever is area as well as allowing less side to side motion of the on a lower plane than the fork horns. This arrangement barrel. The two part barrel arbor is held together by three keeps the pivots and jewels low enough to clear the low screws from inside the barrel, sandwiching the barrel drum profile balance rim while raising the horns enough to clear between the two halves which are alone responsible for the shock protection setting. the endshake of the barrel. The pallet lever is more elaborate than those com­ One criticism I monly seen even in high-grade watches of recent years have of the barrel at­ but the chamfering that is present is very uneven near the tachment is the lack step between the two levels of the pallet. It seems that of a jewel or bushing. the chamfer is applied by a machine or polishing disc of Even a well-designed some kind that cannot get cleanly into the tight corners. hanging arrangement The lever would be more attractive if no chamfer was as found in the cali­ present at all. bre 849 is prone to stress the bearing Under the barrel bridge surface more than a conventional barrel with two supported pivots. It would seem that a replaceable beryllium bronze bushing would be more appropriate (a jewel likely being too thin and fragile) than the unbushed bearing surface present. The underside of the barrel bridge has a milled recess for the click Poising marks spring and, like the Balance underside of all the bridges, is well fin- ished. The milled por- tions to accommo- date the wheels are peri aged and the mating surfaces have Wheels Curb pins Collet

January 2004 Horological Times 15 The incredibly delicate balance is the most obvi­ Conclusion ous evidence of the ultrathin design. The arms of the bal­ The exterior of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ul­ ance have a clearly defined step so that they can clear the trathin is modem, both in its construction and the sleek hairspring stud. Although there is a steel safety roller, the lines of the case and hands. Inside, the movement is en­ impulse jewel is planted directly into the arms of the bal­ tirely traditional and exhibits a level of quality associated ance, thereby eliminating the need for an impulse roller with timepieces from a bygone era. Its water resistance and the fraction of a millimeter it would take up. and solid, well-designed case make it completely appro­ The balance is of a very large diameter for the priate for everyday use while its size and classic simplic­ size of the movement (8.4 mm and 21.15 mm in diameter ity make it even better suited for a dress watch. respectively) and is polished on both sides with a series of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultrathin repre­ small poising divots on the underside. Interestingly, there sents a remarkable bargain in the modem mechanical are also small divots around the outside of the rim, pre­ watch market. It is classic yet modem looking and incred­ sumably made while the balance was in place either for ibly robust for an ultrathin watch while exhibiting the qual­ dynamic poising or to center the regulator. The simple regu­ ity of old-world craft that cannot otherwise be had for lator is nicely made with curb pins and a separate boot several times its asking price. The elegant design of the (the movable cover that keeps the hairspring from slip­ ultrathin movement and the fine finishing touches give it a ping out from between the pins). singular position in the current market. It provides the lion's The hairspring in the calibre 849 is anachronistic share of what is expected from first tier mechanical in almost every detail. Made ofNivarox 1, it is otherwise watches at a surprisingly affordable price. The security slightly archaic in terms of its shape and its methods of of knowing the watch was tested for 1000 hours by Jae­ attachment. It is pinned at the stud and at the collet and ger-LeCoultre only adds to its attractiveness. Many watch has a smooth terminal curve rather than a dogleg. While a companies could learn something about high integrity smooth, well-formed terminal curve can function admira­ watchmaking from Jaeger-LeCoultre. They are a bright bly, there is a certain amount of positional performance light in the sometimes-cynical world of the high mech that can be gained with a properly formed dogleg. Simi­ renaissance. larly, there are some theoretical benefits to the more mod­ 0 em methods of hairspring attachment but there is a cer­ tain charm to the traditional hand craftsmanship exhibited by the pinned stud and collet.

AWl Home Study Course in Clock Repair Based on the original correspondence course written and administered by Laurie Penman, AWl's resident clock instructor, this course is constructed to provide information and instruction in a manner that is immediately useful in both learning and practicing clock repair. The course contains 16 lessons. At the completion of each lesson you will receive comments and suggestions from Laurie Penman, and a pass or fail grade. Those who achieve a pass grade in each section will receive a certificate of completion. Mr. Penman will be available to answer questions or offer sugges­ tions to each student.

The AWl Home Study Course in Clock Repair package contains all the material and information necessary to success­ fully learn the fundamentals of clock repair, including The Clock Repairer's Handbook by Laurie Penman and a one-year subscription to Steven G. Conover's monthly publication, C/ockmaker's News­ letter. Course participants will be invited to attend a 2-day meeting at AWl to confer with Mr. Penman and meet other students. AWl Members - $750 Non-members - $825 Contact Nancy Wellmann, AWl Education Coordinator E-mail: nwellmann @awi-net.org Phone Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 or (513) 367-9800

16 Horological Times • January 2004 The American Watchmakers­ Ciockmakers Institute is now offering brand new health & benefit solution programs available to ALL members at special rates!

Utilize the buying power of AWl!

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January 2004 • Horological Times 17 Rock Quarry

Fred S. Burckhardt, FA WI

The New Year looks great. Plenty of need is a couple million dollars to finish the work, lots of money, a new Ferrari sitting in development stage. I know there are many the garage and no customer complaints. Of wealthy watchmakers who will be more than course, I'm talking about Bill Gates. You know glad to invest, in what will prove to be, a very him, he's the one who could buy the world with lucrative business. After all, if Mr. Gates is his pocket money. Anyway, did you read where involved, it must be something big. I'm just glad he is working with some of the watch compa­ to see he is finally going after the big bucks! nies developing wrist devices that will gather Speaking of big bucks, (notice the information from FM frequencies? They will smooth transition of one subject to another) be able to tell the wearer about appointments, this is another reason for giving the new year weather forecasts, telephone numbers and some deep thought. After going through my possibly where you can find spare parts for records I find I haven't increased my repair watches. Don't count too much on that last prices since the '50s. Not only that, but as you item. Sometimes I wonder if even the "Big get older, you slow down and you're not able Guy" can do that. to tum out as much work. This means that I'm These wrist devices do sound very in­ only making about one-third the amount of teresting. The only thing is, will you have to money I was making then. This is not good carry one of those "boom boxes" around with business. I've decided to take drastic mea­ you in order for them to work? Personally, I sures. Back then, I was charging two dollars like to listen to the AM stations. Does this mean for trade work and three dollars for retail work. I won't be able to wear one? As you can see, No more! From now on, it's going to be three there are many unanswered questions. dollars for trade work and four dollars for re­ Which brings up the question of re­ tail work. I realize that it will probably cost me pair. Is this where the watchmakers come in some customers but what the heck, I have to or do they have something else in mind? Ire­ look after myself and my family. It's time to member when the first digital watches came quit this penny-ante stuff and start to make a on the market. They told us then that they decent living. In fact, I'm also going to go up would never need repairing. Enough said about on my batteries. Instead of charging 65 cents, that. It just so happens I've given that a lot of I'm going to raise it to 75 cents. If I lose ev­ thought to these devices. I'm developing a test­ erything, so what! It will mean I'll have to start ing machine that will require a minimum amount at the bottom again. My only concern is, if I of experience to use. All you'll have to do is make these changes, I'll have to break my vow tape the device to a computer screen, set the of poverty. dials on my machine and the computer will au­ 0 tomatically correct whatever is wrong. All I

18 Horological Times • January 2004 BULLETIN AWl Directors' BOARD E-mail Address Directory

RESPONSES Director AWl E-mail Address PegnaGiue Jack Kurdzionak: President [email protected] Jean Bernhard, Miami, FL, was able to help George Costantino, Jim Door: 1st Vice President [email protected] Schenectady, NY, in locating a source for Pegna Glue. The glue can be purchased from: I.W.S., 2525 E. Oakton, Suite D47, Ar­ Alice Carpenter: Secretary [email protected] lington Heights, IL 60005; Phone (84 7) 228-6919. Mark Butterworth: Treasurer [email protected] ITEMS STILL NEEDED Henry Frystak [email protected] Schatz Clocks Roland (Ron) Iverson [email protected] We are seeking a distributor or someone who services Schatz Robert D. Porter [email protected] clocks. James Sadilek jsadilek@ awi-net.org Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do Dennis Warner dwamer@ awi-net.org you need information about one of this month's responses? If so, send your information or requests to: Manuel Yazijian myazijian@ awi-net.org Horological Times Bulletin Board 701 Enterprise Drive James Zimmennan jzimmerman @awi-net.org Harrison, OH 45030-1696 Glenn D. Gardner. Affiliate Chapter Director [email protected] Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Phone: (513) 367-9800 Joseph Juaire: REG Director [email protected] Fax: (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] 0 Tony Riggio: lAB Director [email protected]

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January 2004 • Horological Times 19 Alarms of American Mantel Clocks Part 2

David J. LaBounty, CMC, FBHI If the wire needs to be replaced be­ Now that the alarm has been serviced and a cause it is missing, the wrong material, too short, new wire partially installed, it is time to make mangled beyond recognition, etc ... hobby shops a few adjustments and bring this to proper carry a very nice soft steel wire that can be working order. used, provided it is slightly hardened by stretch­ ing. Clamp one end of the soft wire in the vice, Adjustments unwind about two feet off of the spool, and Look closely at the alarm release pull ... hard. You will be able to feel the wire lever and make sure it is free to travel. It should stretch (just before it breaks off at the vice) clear any protruding pivots or bushings and not and you will have a very nice looking straight be bent hard against the front plate. It should piece of wire. move freely on the shoulder screw without any Now that you have a nice straight, stickiness. Remember, don't oil levers! shiny, new piece of wire you will have to put a Mount the alarm set disk on the hour proper looking loop at the top. Use a pair of pipe by gently pushing and twisting until it is round-nose pliers and make the loop (see pic­ properly seated. Don't forget to lift the alarm ture) about a quarter of an inch in diameter. release lever so it clears the cam on the back Hook your new wire onto the alarm release of the set disk! If the disk goes on too easily it lever on the main movement (installed in case) may need to be tightened by gently pinching and cut the wire so it clears the bottom of the the slotted pipe with a pair of non-serrated case. pliers. If it goes on too hard and is very diffi­ Install the alarm mechanism by slip­ cult to turn, it may need to be loosened by open­ ping the release wire through the loop in the ing up the slotted pipe. A tapered punch the release arm before you screw the alarm move­ proper size works well. Check the alarm re­ ment to the case. Don't bend the wire just yet. lease point by rotating the set disk clockwise and stop at the point of release (when the alarm release lever falls into the notch in the alarm disk release cam). Look closely at the numer­ als on the disk. The 12 should be straight up,

Nice looking loop Properly proportioned end at the top of the hook end at the bottom of Stretching soft wire to make a new a arm release wire. the wire. wire.

20 Horological Times • January 2004 12 o'clock position

Notch

Release Cam

Back side of the set disk showing the release cam and the notch almost lining up with the 12. This will have to be adjusted slightly.

needs to be. But be sure and tighten the disk once you get it there by peening the rivet on the front. If it is tight on the collar but is extremely far off you may need to loosen it, adjust it, then re-tighten. New wire, looped and attached to the alarm release lever. If the disk is firmly affixed to the collar and yet is releasing slightly early or late, then adjustments will need not even slightly off center. If it appears to be off, see if to be made on the alarm release lever. Bend the tip of the the disk is loose on its collar. A slight twist of the disk, lever slightly one way or the other until the alarm releases without moving the cam, may bring it back to where it at the proper time.

Automatic infrasonic watch cleaner. Ultrasonic watch cleaner. Automatic and programmable. Affordably priced, dependable to Economical to operate. Vibrasonic watch cleaner. operate,solidly built, Perfect for the small shop. Deluxe- top of the line. For more intormation~or VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708

January 2004 • Horological Times 21 Adjusting the alarm release lever to obtain the correct release point.

Proper position of the alarm set disk at the point of release.

bind the alarm anchor if too close to the bell. It is better to make adjustments at previous bends so you don't end up with an arm that meanders. Yes, you will have to give the Finally, we move to the alarm mechanism itself alarm a couple winds, so be prepared to make some noise and the adjustments there. Start with adjusting the ham­ from here on out! It is a simple matter to catch the release mer arm so the hammer will hit the bell squarely and not arm and stop the alarm to make adjustments. 0

AWl EVENING CLASSES IN CLOCK AND WATCH REPAIR

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute is offering weekly evening classes (1 0 consecu­ tive Wednesdays) in clock and watch repair. These will be basic instructional classes, loosely structured to adapt to the needs of the students. Watch and clock classes will run simultaneously on Wednesday evenings from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm at the training facilities at AWl in Harrison, Ohio.

Instructors: Laurie Penman, Clock Repair Tom Schomaker, CMW, Watch Repair

Schedule: Winter Session January 14, 2004- March 17, 2004

Location: AWl Training Facility 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030

Cost: $350 per 10-week session Registrants must be AWl members ($74 yearly membership) Tool and material costs are extra

For further information or to register for a class, contact Nancy Wellmann, Education Coordinator 1-866-367-2924, ext. 303 or e-mail: nwe/[email protected]

22 Horological Times • January 2004 New Members Fomblin Grease

This is a white, homogeneous grease used to lubricate case backs, case back gaskets, tubes, tube gaskets, crowns, California crown gaskets, pushers, rotating bezels and more. It will not Bortnick, Max H.-Lawndale, CA break down due to temperature changes like some standard Burghart, Greg-Alameda, CA synthetic lubricants. Fomblin grease is recommended for a Shaffer, Daniel S.-San Bernardino, CA temperature range from -30° to + 150°C.

Illinois Stock No. 421 .540 Krawczyk, Kryzsztof-Schaumburg, IL Our Price $42.00 Michigan Warriner, Todd-Lambertville, Ml Luminous Compound Kit

These kits have all you need to mix luminous paste for Minnesota watch dials & hands. Mixes to desired consistency in exact Austin, Thaddeus-Saint Paul, MN quantities every time. Available in green, yellow and white. Mathison, James T.-Minneapolis, MN Kit includes glue compound, color agent in powder form, Stephens, Andrew-Minneapolis, MN dilutent , mixing cup and needle applicator.

Missouri Color Green Stagner, Robert E.-Poplar Bluff, MO Yellow White New Jersey Cohen, Arnold-Garfield, NJ Your Choice 524.50 Ohio Clock, John E.-Harrison, OH Check out our new website Mischey, Ben W.-Youngstown, OH & tell us what you think!!! Texas www.Livesayslnc.com Coyne, Linda-San Antonio, TX Rivera, Jose C.-Laredo, TX £i,l'esay's wishes you a safe Washington ~prosperous JVew Year! Breidenthal, Robert-Seattle, WA Closed January 1st 2004 Nault, Phil-Issaquah, WA

Canada Caron, Morris-Hampstead, Quebec

*AWl welcomes back these individuals who have chosen to reinstate their membership.

January 2004 • Horological Times 23 Disaster Planning Part 2 Questions to Ask and Answer in a Business Disaster Plan

Linda Chrysler

In Part 1, we determined the types of disasters ing medical care, shelters, etc. If nothing more, a radio is the area you live and work in are most susceptible to. a comfort factor immediately following a disaster. Remember to check with your city or county emergency 4. Do you have a first aid kit and are you familiar management agency as they likely have analyzed most with the contents? Depending on the extent of the disas­ risks already. You can then build your list using theirs as a ter, you may need to provide first aid for injured employ­ guide. After you have listed and ranked all possible disas­ ees or customers for the first 72 hours. Have you or your ters, you were then to select the top five or six. employees had Red Cross first aid and CPR training? The The next step is to list, for each type of disaster, American Red Cross provides this training free of charge the type of damage that could occur if that disaster oc­ in most areas. Contact your local Red Cross chapter for curred and the effect it would have on you, your employ­ details. ees and your business. Then ask and answer the follow­ 5. Do you have an operational fire extinguisher? ing questions as they relate to each type of disaster. These Most businesses are required by local ordinance to have a questions should be addressed at some point in your plan. fire extinguisher on-site and inspected annually. Be sure Remember that dependant on the type of disaster, you everyone knows where it is located and how it operates. may or may not have outside assistance from the police, 6. If you or your employees have school age chil­ fire department, or Red Cross. If the disaster affects a dren, what is the school policy in the event of a disaster? wide area, you will likely be on your own for up to 72 Will the children be automatically dismissed and sent home, hours. do provisions need to be made for pickup if you are not l. If your store suffers physical damage which available, will the school care for them overnight if neces­ might allow access, do you have a plan in place to secure sary? the premises against looters? This may require you to stay 7. If you or a family member are on prescription on site until broken windows can be secured. Remember medication, do you have at least a 3-day supply with you that your alarm system will more than likely not be func­ at all times, regardless of where you might be when the tioning if phone lines are inoperable and there is no power disaster occurs? Some medications cannot be skipped supply. Items you might want to have on hand to help without causing medical problems. Don't forget prescrip­ secure the premises following a disaster would include: tion eye glasses. If you are site-impaired, you might keep hammers, nails, saws, wrenches, wire cutters, rope, pli­ an extra pair at work. ers, and plywood. If the disaster is contained to your busi­ 8. Communications are an important issue during ness or immediate area, help securing the facilities is usu­ and immediately after a disaster. Local phone lines may ally provided by your local fire and police departments. If be damaged or destroyed. Cell phone towers may also be the disaster affects a large area, securing the facilities damaged. In many instances, pay phones will be working, would solely be your responsibility. although it may take several minutes to obtain a dial tone. 2. If you are forced to stay at your shop for secu­ Do not hang up and try again, be patient. Hanging up only rity reasons or lack of transportation home (damaged ve­ delays your call and clogs the phone system. Even then, hicle, inaccessible roads, etc.), do you have an adequate calling a local phone number may not be possible. Prior supply of drinking water and non-perishable food that re­ planning with a relative or friend out of the area is a ne­ quires no cooking? Prepare for a 3-day supply of food cessity if you are vulnerable to disasters. While local phone and water. Is there a place for you and your employees to service may be interrupted, long distance will normally be rest? Are there provisions for emergency toilets? Does operational. Family members should be instructed to con­ anyone have a medical condition that requires medica­ tact someone out of the area in the event local phone ser­ tions that they may be without? vice is not working. This will allow contact with each other 3. Do you have emergency flashlights with extra through a third party, and will give peace of mind so you batteries and a battery-powered radio? Candles for emer­ can concentrate on more urgent matters that may present gency lighting are not the best source due to the danger of itself. fire. A radio is helpful in staying in contact with the out­ 9. Do you carry sufficient and appropriate insur­ side world. Updates on the disaster will be broadcast on ance on your business; i.e., general liability, fire, flood, glass local stations, as well as emergency information regard- breakage, business interruption, etc.? Are your store

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Stainless Steel Clasp to fit Raymond Weil - $49.95 inventory, customer repairs and equipment adequately cov­ 15. If an event affects an area close to you, but ered? Be aware that general insurance polices may not not your business, will your business be affected by inter­ cover damage from natural disasters. ruption in deliveries of supplies by common carrier (UPS, 10. If you use any type of toxic materials in your Federal Express, USPS, etc.)? Large corporations such shop (cleaning solutions, acids, casting materials, propane/ as these will have detailed contingency plans in place. Ask oxygen tanks), are they stored in a secure area and away what they are and how you would be affected. from electrical outlets and equipment? Are provisions in 16. Management succession is a critical compo­ place to deal with disposal and cleanup of spills that might nent of your plan. If you are the head of your business, be caused by a disaster? Do all employees know how to are plans in place for someone to succeed you in case you safely tum off all equipment, cut-off power supply and are unavailable or injured? Specific authority should be shut down gas lines? Do you maintain on-site as well as detailed in your plan. If your business has a board of di­ off-site manufacturers' Material Safety Data Sheets on rectors, your plan should address the entire board, how toxic materials you may use? Are oxygen/propane tanks they will be affected and their responsibilities in the event securely bolted in place? Your local fire department can of a disaster. assist you in this area ensuring that you are in compliance 17. Do you keep immunizations up to date for all with local regulations. family members and remind employees of the necessity 11. Are important documents (repair records, in­ of such? In particular, tetanus shots should be maintained. surance policies, titles/deeds, passports/birth certificates, 18. Do you keep your automobile fueled? If power etc.) stored in a safe place such as a safety deposit box or is interrupted, filling stations will not be able to operate large fire-rated safe? Do you have a record retention pro­ gas pumps. Do not store extra gasoline in your garage or gram in place that would allow you to recreate your busi­ trunk. ness financial records if they were destroyed? Whether 19. Do you have off-site and easily accessible an your records are stored on paper, computer, microfilm, or employee contact list? This list should detail each employee magnetic tape, are duplicate records stored off-site? Do with their contact information as well as their emergency you regularly backup any computer records and store the contacts. If the disaster occurs during non-business hours, backup off-site? Your business financial records you may need to contact employees with instructions as including tax returns will be invaluable in your disaster to whether or not to report to work and where to report. If recovery efforts. the disaster occurs during business hours, you may need 12. If your store handles clock, watch and jew­ to contact an employee's family in the event of an injury elry repair, do you have a detailed record of customers to the employee. items which you have possession of? Is a duplicate of this 20. Have you talked to your employees and fam­ record stored off-site? Is it in sufficient detail that it could ily about what they should do in the event of a disaster be used for insurance purposes in the event that customers occurring in your area without warning? Determine an repairs are destroyed? Think about what you have in for off-site meeting place for your employees and family mem­ repair right now and if a fire destroyed your store. Would bers if the need to evacuate occurs. This will speed the you know what you had that belonged to a customer­ recovery process and minimize anxiety. If you must evacu­ who they were, how to contact them, the description of ate your business, you will need to determine if everyone the item and its value? who was inside is accounted for. This will be one of the 13. Alternate location. One consideration that first questions you will be asked by the police and fire should be made in advance is an alternate location if your rescue. current location is not habitable. You might talk with other 21. Walk through your business and home. Search business owners in your area who might be several miles for hazards that might present themselves for each type away and unaffected by the event and have a related type of disaster (i.e., stay away from large plate glass win­ of business. A relationship and agreement could be estab­ dows during tornados). Correct any identified hazards (i.e., lished whereby you agree to provide temporary space for strapping down water heaters in earthquake prone areas). business operations if the other suffers damage. 22. Draw a floor plan of your home and business. 14. Prior planning with your financial institution Mark the following: escape routes; location of emergency should also be considered. Ask what their plans are in the supplies; location of utility shutoffs; storage area for haz­ event of a disaster that might affect them. Are your records ardous materials; alarm control panels; fire extinguisher protected? If your business can function, will you be able location; all exits, stairs, elevators, sprinkler layout and to make deposits and withdrawals? Will electronic depos­ control point. Teach everyone how to operate utility shut­ its continue? Can you access your accounts and obtain off valves properly and have the necessary tools readily cash? Dependent on the disaster, cash disbursements may available. be limited. Will your credit card processing be affected? Next: Writing Your Disaster Plan. If you have automatic bill payments, will they continue 0 uninterrupted?

26 Horological Times • January 2004 AWl Material Search/Movement Bank

EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in If you can supply any of these items please con­ conjunction with the AWl Movement Bank. If you can tact: AWl Material Search Network, American Watchmak­ supply any of the items listed here, please send details to ers-Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, the Material Search Network. Do not send the items OH 45030-1696. Toll Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 305; to AWl. Members requesting these items will be advised Phone: (513) 367-9800, Fax: (513) 367-1414 or E-mail: of their availability, and will contact you directly. [email protected].

101 E. Howard clock, model13, weight and lower The AWl-ELM Trust, in cooperation with the glass that covers pendulum. American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, maintains this unique member service to assist professionals in re­ 102 Blancpain 56 balance complete or movement placing hard-to-find parts for vintage timepieces. When a complete. member cannot locate a replacement part through normal sources, the Movement Bank/Material Search Network 104 Seth Thomas Time & Strik Clock, D105, (which consists of movements, timepieces and materials platform or movement complete. donated to the Trust) is often able to help. There is a fee of $10.00 for each search. The fee will be waived if a 105 Seth Thomas Ship's Bell Clock, 115A, platform part or movement of equivalent value is donated to the or movement complete. Movement Bank. The AWI Material Search Network first contacts 107 Venus 178 movement complete with dial. several dozen material houses and outlets on behalf of the member to determine if the missing part is available from 108 Ansonia 1882 Mantel Clock, time & strike, any commercial source in the United States or Canada. If international gear on strike train with sping no other source is available, the Movement Bank is barrel. searched for a usable spare part. If found, the fair mar­ ket value of the part will be assessed and the part made 1P1 Hamilton 754 pallet bridge. available for sale to the member. If the part cannot be found in the Movement Bank, the search will be listed in 1P2 Longines 8LN, balance complete or movement the Horological Times. complete, #721/? 0

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January 2004 • Horological Times 27 As A Clockmaker Turns The Clockmaker and His Lathe According to "Old Huck" Part 6

J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

Introduction conclusion is that we must use a shoulder rivet. This is Part 6 of a series of lathe op­ That means we need to match head size, shoul­ erating practices. My objective in this series is der size, shoulder length, tang size, and tang "simplicity is the essence of refinement." That length to the pieces at hand. The compound old axiom is so true in lathe work. When a job probability of fmding those dimensions in a rivet is seemingly difficult, the process should be assortment is essentially zero! This job is a very broken down into a group of simple steps. And, clear call for a lathe-turned replacement. then the steps are worked out in a logical order. Where Do We Start? The immediate job is one found fre­ First off, I cannot make a piece that I quently in older American clocks. Many ex­ do not understand. Tum your attention to Fig­ amples of that type of repair appear "less than ure 62. Slip a round broach in each of the holes excellent." I'm speaking of the click rivet be­ and measure the broach. We immediately be­ ing tom from the great wheel. The poor re­ gin to develop a mental picture of size, and pairs are from two sources: an ill-fitted rivet, measure the click and wheel thickness. We and poor staking techniques. This work will now develop a picture of length. Then mea­ progress through a series of logical steps to sure across the click surface. Now we have a achieve an excellent repair. vision of head diameter and head height. In a couple of minutes we have a picture of ex­ What Is the Problem? actly what is needed. You may elect to sketch As we study Figure 61, it appears that your mental picture. That being done well, you the hole in the wheel spoke, and in the click could send the sketch out to be made, even by are larger than original. Be that as it may, the a stranger.

Figure 61. The objective is a new rivet for the click Figure 62. Hole dimensions are estimated by of an American clock "great wheel." measuring a round broach in the respective hole.

28 Horological Times • January 2004 Figure 63. Face the end. This gives a true surface to reference Figure 66. As you near completion, a trial-fit with the measurements. respective pieces can be made.

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Figure 64. The piece has a little runout, true the region that will be used.

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Figure 65. Work from the end, toward the collet. Form the tang [email protected] first.

January 2004 Horological Times 29 What Did "Old Huck" See? Here is the note I made:

Inches Diameter Length Head 0.181 0.040 Body 0.116 0.066 Tang 0.084 0.068

This means I did not need to handle the pieces until the rivet was finished.

The Lathe Work Many of these clocks used brass rivets. I elected to use brass because it is so easily machined. The 0.181 head diameter permits the raw material to be a piece of 3116 inch rod stock. That Figure 68. Use "the handle" to assemble the pieces, then break size is acceptable, held in a #4 7 collet. The piece wobbled away the handle. That leaves a small bur. a little, but excess size permitted a thin skin cut. So far, perfect. Study Figures 63 and 64. The work progresses from the tang end, toward the head in Figures 65 and 66, where we pause and ex­ tend the material further out of the collet. Now form the top ofthe rivet head, and cut it almost free from the par­ ent stock. The parent stock is used for an assembly handle. Assemble the pieces, and break away the handle. Read the caption of Figure 68. There is a small bur where the handle breaks away. Observe Figure 69. Place on a heavy smooth bench block. A single stroke of a smooth face, 2-ounce steel hammer finishes the job. The bend block removed the head bur, Figure 70. Make a careful study of Figure 71. This rivet tang was expanded in the spoke hole, and overflows edges of the wheel spoke. It is an excellent job. Figure 69. Place on a smooth bench block. A single stroke of a Now look over Figure 72. What do we see? Here 2-ounce steel hammer expands and upsets the brass tang. is what "Old Huck" sees. In Figure 72, I see every rivet I will ever need in clock repair! Of course, smaller ones

Figure 67. Extend the workpiece and form the head. Cut almost Figure 70. The bench block surface is replicated on the rivet free. head, and the break off bur is gone.

30 Horological Times • January 2004 Figure 72. The brass rod, collet, and turning graver that produced this piece of lathe work.

Figure 71. The tang expands tight in the spoke hole, and oveiflows onto the suiface, an excellent job. would use smaller raw material, etc. I also see that every Looking Ahead rivet I ever need will be promptly and inexpensively More to come. Contact your friends to join with available. you in this lathe study. You will learn lathe practices never before found in print. 0 Job Evaluation This is a classic example of how seemingly diffi­ cult situations can be broken down into steps where stress is converted to pleasure!

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January 2004 Horological Times 31 From the Workshop

Jack Kurdzionak, CW

You Are Invited Do you have a solution to a watch or clock repair problem that you want to share with our membership? Do you have a ques­ tion about a repair problem you would like to ask? I invite you to participate in this column with your suggestions, questions, and com­ ments. It's easy. Just e-mail me at AWl or write using the old standby known as the postal service. You can even fax me at 513-367-1414. I will do my best to help you help the membership. By sharing your questions and suggestions all of our members can benefit from our combined knowledge and experi­ previous repair in which an hour hand that did ence. The ideas, tools, techniques and prod­ not match the minute hand in either style or ucts presented in this column are suggested quality of finish was substituted for the missing by the author and contributing members and hand. The best repair would have been to re­ are not endorsed by any manufacturer, sup­ place the pair of hands with a set that matched plier, advertiser or AWl itself. the originals. If this was not possible, the hands should have been replaced as a matching pair to give a good visual appearance. This was WORKING SMARTER PART 2 the first clue that someone was taking a short­ cut and should serve as a warning sign to look Problems Come in Bunches for more shortcuts. We all know that bananas and grapes After removing the dial the second are supposed to come in bunches. Have you shortcut became apparent. The lower balance noticed that watch and clock problems can also arrive in bunches? Experienced watch and clock makers will assure you that if you see one or two obvious problems in a time­ piece, beware. There are usually several more you will not see until you have begun the re­ pair. Last month I spoke of visual acuity and how important it is to the estimator when ex­ amining a timepiece in order to prepare a re­ pair estimate. The first photo shows the dial and hands of a vintage Elgin wristwatch, and also yields the first clue. The hour and minute hands are mismatched. They tell a story of a

32 Horological Times • January 2004 jewel assembly, as shown in the next photo, was held in anticipated, and fails just before the end of the warranty place with a small piece of cellophane tape. Rather than period? Last month's column briefly mentioned the im­ make the proper repair by replacing the KIF® spring, portance of an estimator's experience at the repair bench. which was missing, the jewel assembly was temporarily Experience must be acquired, accumulated, and assimi­ taped down to the plate. This makeshift patch allowed the lated into one's work if it is to bear fruit when estimating watch to run briefly until the entire jewel assembly had timepiece repairs. Experience is gained at the bench by shifted, causing the watch to stop. This was the second repairing timepieces over a period of years. There are no visual clue, but there was still one more problem that was shortcuts to quickly gain experience. The specialized not so obvious. knowledge of individual timepieces and their unique char­ After taking the watch movement completely acteristics must be accumulated and retained until the same apart, the shortcut repair to the upper center wheel bridge model comes to the repair bench again. As an example, became apparent. The pivot hole in the bridge was hit the vintage Girard Perragaux Calibre 32 automatic wrist­ with a three-corner punch in a futile attempt to close the watch comes to mind as one a watchmaker should never hole (as shown in the third photo). Instead of closing the forget. These 30-plus-year-old watches had a few weak hole to compensate for wear, the punch just did more dam­ spots, namely the cannon pinion, the barrel, and mainspring age to the part. There is no way a three-corner punch can assembly. The tiny offset cannon pinion is almost impos­ close a hole, but someone tried. The hole should have been sible to tighten when it loses its grip on the center wheel. evenly closed with a round-faced punch then broached to It is thin, hard and frequently cracks when pinched to make size with a smoothing broach. it tighter, even if it has been annealed before pinching. The mainspring on this model can certainly break, but it cannot be replaced. The barrel was sealed shut at the factory by burnishing the edge over its cover. Attempts to remove the mainspring from the barrel usually destroy the barrel itself. If the mainspring has not broken, the barrel teeth often have their driving faces worn away from years of wear. The only repair possible here is a new barrel complete with mainspring from Girard Perragaux. The watchmaker unfamiliar with this model would assume this watch needed an overhaul, mainspring and tightening of the cannon pinion as he would on almost any other automatic watch and he would include these repairs in his estimate. The trouble begins if the estimate is ap­ proved and the repairs are begun. Tightening the cannon pinion becomes the first disaster when it cracks. Then the barrel cover is destroyed as it is removed from the barrel. After calling a few material suppliers the watchmaker finds the required parts have been discontinued for years. Murphy's Law says the repair will now take longer and cost more than anticipated. If those two parts can be found, The point of this article is not to criticize or talk they will cost more than dinner for two in a fine restaurant about the previous repairs made to the watch (as they regardless of the fact that the watchmaker thought they speak for themselves), but to exemplify to the watchmaker could be had for the price of a burger, fries, and shake at that he should carefully inspect each watch he is estimat­ McDonald's. If these parts are not replaced, the watch­ ing and not ignore any visual clues that tell about previous maker may get the watch to tick and barely keep time; repairs. If he does not pay attention to these clues, even if however, it will surely be back in the shop for free war­ they seem irrelevant or minor such as mismatched set of ranty work in the near future. hands, he will frequently and needlessly underestimate the The above example illustrates the importance of amount of work needed to properly repair the watch at experience when working on unfamiliar timepieces. It is hand. Jack Kurdzionak always better to pass up the opportunity to lose money on a repair and go on to the next job with which you are more familiar. Murphy's Law Jack Kurdzionak Murphy must have been a horologist, otherwise 0 how would he have known that every repair takes longer than the estimated time, uses more spare parts than

January 2004 • Horological Times 33 Affiliate Chapter Report

Glenn D. Gardner, CMW

I want to wish everyone a healthy and have all the chapters represented. As a repre­ prosperous new year. To make this a prosper­ sentative you could get $400 toward your ex­ ous year; you must first set a goal to attend penses. If you have never experienced one of the 44th Annual American Watchmakers­ these meetings you may not realize just how Clockmakers Institute convention and meet­ important they can be. Whether you are new ing. The dates are August 5, 6, 7 & 8, 2004. It at your profession or an old-timer I will guar­ will be held in South Portland, Maine. Now is antee you will learn something new that will the time to start planning your family vacation pay for your trip. Just the experience of meet­ around these dates. I know when my family ing and talking with people with the same was young, many times we would start our problems is worth the trip. vacation in Cincinnati and the surrounding area. I don't think I can stress enough how My wife and mother-in-law will never forget important it is to have your group represented. the meeting in 1976 when we camped out in The Affiliate Chapter representatives have her trailer and it rained most of the meeting. been instrumental in AWI changing with the That was an unforgettable weekend, but we times. Many of our past presidents have been still went back as a family many more times Affiliate Chapter Chairmen and many have but we stayed in the hotel from then on. represented their state association at the Now is the time to start talking with annual meetings. your group to find out who will represent them 0 at the Affiliate Chapter meeting. We need to

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL AFFILIATE CHAPTER

For information on forming a new chapter, call 1-866-367-2924, ext. 304

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January 2004 • Horological Times 35 Member Benefit Spotlight EDUCATION- Watchmakers and Certification

Lucy Fuleki, AWl Assistant Executive Director

We have already reminded you of and sister, he enrolled in the watchmaking­ many benefits offered by AWl-bench clockmaking course. This was no small sacri­ courses, the clock correspondence course, fice as Jim describes his childhood as idyllic. evening clockmaking course at AWl, techni­ "I didn't want to leave" Jim says of cal articles in the Horological Times, as well his years at Gem City. He loved Quincy and as the technical assistance when calling the had a good time. He was there from 1978 until office. But, did you realize that you had a Gem 1981 and by the time he left had also taken City College and WOSTEP trained Executive courses in hand engraving, jewelry design and Director of AWI who personally consults with casting, jewelry repair and gun engraving. He Mary Huff to address each of your tech ques­ was working nights at Blessing Hospital as a tions? Executive Director Jim Lubic does this night manager of housekeeping and making in addition to acting as Education Director. enough money to support his true career love, In an interview with Jim Lubic, I found horology. Gem City is an AWI Research & Edu­ that he began his horological career at the age cation Council school. There, to whet his ap­ of 19 when he left his hometown of Portage, petite for knowledge about horology were, AI Michigan to attend Gem City College in Linkey (recently retired and replaced by Larry Quincy, Illinois. Leaving behind his parents' Blanchard), Bill Crispin, Jim Phelps, and the familial love and that of his younger brother school was being run by Drs. Marshall and

Jim Lubic removes a balance assembly.

36 Horological Times • January 2004 Johnson ("I think they are still there, with the exception of Bill Crispen," Jim adds). Jim graduated in the Spring of 1981, took a job in the Fall of 1981 with Paul E. Morrison in Kalamazoo, Michigan, his first job in the industry. He also joined the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute that same year. Christmas, 1982 he switched to Leeland Distribut­ ing, distributors of Seiko and Colibri, in St. Louis, Mis­ souri, where he did warranty work as well as full-service work. This allowed him to enhance his career by increas­ ing his knowledge of repair, as well as becoming proficient in quartz watch repair. "Quartz watches were here to stay," Jim said, and the job gave him a leg up on repair of quartz watches. Tragedy occurred in the Lubic family when Jim's 20-year-old brother, Tom was killed in a motorcycle acci­ dent. Jim returned home and worked for Cachet Gems in Kalamazoo while helping to build his parents' new home with Ed, his dad and Uncle Ernie. Then, in 1985, Jim found out about a teaching position available at the Ohio Valley Watchmaking School in Cincinnati. It was the former Gruen Watchmaking In­ stitute (1954) which was given to Goodwill. While there, he became active in the AWl REC and began to dream about going to Switzerland to WOSTEP. From his teach­ ing experience he was driven to find answers to all the questions posed by students and he bombarded AWI with requests for slide presentations, books, videos and phone calls to find answers. "I thought I knew everything when Jim Lubic installs a balance assembly. I left watchmaking school, but I learned more teaching it," Jim stated. He credits AWl REC programs as a great source of knowledge as well as assistance he received from Jerry Jaeger, Alice and Buddy Carpenter, Milt and Thelma Stevens, to name a few. Jim was intrigued with WOSTEP, and during the When Anthony and Josiane Simonin came to the summer of 1989 he sent his money to WOSTEP and in U.S. from Switzerland to promote WOSTEP and form a January 1990 took the WOSTEP refresher course. This relationship with the watchmaking schools in this country, required him taking a leave of absence from the Ohio Milt Stevens invited Jim to join them for dinner and he Valley Watchmaking School while Chuck McKinney and learned firsthand about the WOSTEP program. Bob Ridenour filled in for him. Jim graduated first in his

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January 2004 • Horological Times 37 class from WOSTEP and upon his return Milt Stevens nwellmann @awi-net.org, or call866-367-2924, ext. 303. offered him a position at AWI where he became the first AWl also offers trademark-protected Certifica­ watch instructor as the school formed. When you leave tions and members have been able to earn the following WOSTEP you may request that your resume be distrib­ credentials: Certified Clockmaker (CC); Certified Master uted to the WOSTEP members. This can result in job Clockmaker (CMC); Certified Electronic Watch Techni­ offers from around the world, Jim remembers and the cian (CEWT); Certified Master Electronic Watchmaker "offers are flattering." But, AWl was interested in the (CMEW); Certified Watchmaker (CW) and Certified betterment of watchmakers-clockmakers and everyone's Master Watchmaker (CMW). These certifications are goals were the same, he added. So, in January, 1991 he being updated by the AWl Board of Directors to reflect began a career with what has been the second love of his the changing times by adding training for the electronic career life, AWI. watch technician. Jim taught classes at AWl until 1998, one-week The AWI Annual Meeting has also become a one­ courses under the old project extend, and full-time in the day educational seminar and experts in areas designed to Academy of Watchmaking. Jim still teaches the occasional further members' careers are imported for the day. In an weekend Bench Course. In the summer of 1992 Jim re­ effort to give all members an opportunity to participate, turned to WOSTEP for their Courses on Complicated the convention will be moved to different geographic ar­ Watches. eas every other year, beginning in South Portland, Maine, Jim met the romantic love of his life Teresa Kraus August 5-8, 2004. and they married in May 1992, moved to Westwood, where What does Jim see as the most compelling of his Seth was born in June 1995 and Sophie in May 1999. It's duties? To serve and retain the membership and "devel­ hard to decide when seeing their lovely children who they oping standards recognized by industry in both watchmak­ most resemble since the "apple didn't fall far from the ing and clockmaking." He hopes to have the traditional tree." His parents (Fran and Ed) are still in Kalamazoo, certification back up in early February and to offer a Michigan certification that has meaning to the public and the indus­ Jim's sister Barb has her doctorate in Education try, "providing a better opportunity for professionals to and lives in Battle Creek, Michigan. succeed." In 1997 the Lubics moved to Harrison, Ohio to be There have been changes since he joined AWl, a nearer AWI headquarters since the Academy of Watch­ lot of them, but "they just take so long to take hold," Jim making had started in August, 1996 and Milt Stevens re­ concludes. tired that same year, having accomplished his desire to see the school started. Upon the resignation of Stevens' successor, Bill Ewbank, Jim was offered the position of Executive Director in May 2000 which he accepted. AWI is the possessor of a director from the industry who knows Motions from the Certification Committee and the it from all angles, as a student, industry employee, teacher, Education Committee association employee and now association leader. AWI offers watchmaker courses taught by Tom OnApril4, 2003 the following motions were unani­ Schomaker, Certified Master Watchmaker. Schomaker mously approved by the AWl Board of Directors. received the highest score on the AWl CMW exam in Motion (1) from the Certification and Education 1982 and became recertified in August, 2000. Schomaker committees: began his watch career in 1981 as a student at the Ohio Valley Watchmaking Institute. He became an instructor MOTION (1) to change the Bylaws Article IV­ at that same school in 1983. After working for the family­ CERTIFICATION Sec. 2 by removing lines (e) Certified owned jewelry stores, L.L. Smith Jewelers and William Master Electronic Watch Technician and (f) Certified Effler Jewelers, he began his own Cincinnati retail watch Master Electronic Watchmaker, and replacing them with repair shop, Fast Track Watch Repair, in September 2001. (e) Associate Watch Technician and (f) Certified Watch Courses are held on Wednesday night for ten ( 10) Technician. consecutive weeks. Simultaneous watch and clock ses­ Explanation for change: With the dissolution of sions are held from September to November, January to the two current AWI certifications, "Certified Master Elec­ March, and April through June. The current segment tronic Watch Technician" and the "Certified Master Elec­ runs from January 14 to March 17, 2004. The cost of tronic Watchmaker," the skills required for both of these instruction is $350 per 10-week segment. These are former certifications will be applied to the two new disci­ plines, AWT and CWT. AWl will continue to recognize courses that can be structured for all skill levels. To regis­ these former certifications but would no longer administer ter, contact Education Coordinator Nancy Wellmann at these exams.

38 Horological Times • January 2004 Over the last several months the Education Com­ scheduled simultaneous, and at a mutual location, with a mittee and Certification Subcommittee have been engaged time frame of 2 - 3 days for completion. in a discussion of the Certification programs for the watch 6. The CMW and CMC exams will be scheduled element of AWI. It has been observed that too many simultaneous, and only at AWl central (due to the level of changes have occurred in the watch trade, which were machinery and tools required), with a time frame of 5 - 6 not reflected in our current programs. The Certification days for completion. Subcommittee went to work studying this situation and 7. All written certification examinations will be developed a different approach to meet these circum­ open book. stances and provide for: (1) The watch profession's need 8. Each watch/clock (or movement) and the writ­ for an educated basic on-the-spot (point of sale) worker; ten portion of each exam will be graded individually and (2) A more definitive relationship and completeness be­ require a minimum passing grade of 75%. tween the title and the workers abilities; (3) Easier mem­ 9. Failure to achieve a minimum passing grade of bership acquisition of certified titles with an opportunity to 75% on any individual aspect of an exam will require the grow; (4) Our fully Certified Watchmaker will be compe­ Examinee to retake that portion within 1 year, or to retake tent in both quartz and mechanical work which is what is the entire exam after 1 year. needed today; and (5) With the demands for restoration, 10. The AWl Certification Committee reserves our Master certifications will show that level of compe­ the exclusive right to appoint and/or enlist qualified mod­ tency, just to list a few. After final debates, we all agreed erators for any and all certification examinations. 11. Im­ that the proposal was an excellent one, which will give mediately upon AWI Board approval of any changes to AWl's certificates more clarity and acceptance in the this document, all AWI watch certification examinations marketplace and with our many European and American will be suspended (a period not to exceed 180 days) al­ watch companies. There are details to be worked out and lowing appropriate time for the Education Director, Edu­ logistics to be finalized but these do not detract from the cation Committee, and Certification Committee to update quality of the proposal. Our committees ask that you re­ examination parameters accordingly. view the above proposal and approve it for the use of our fellow members so that we may bring AWI one step closer Certification appeal process: to its mission statement of being the "premier educational These Certification Appeal Rules (the "Rules") institution." shall govern the process for any individual wishing to ap­ peal a failing grade on any part of an AWI Certification Motion (2) from the Certification and Education Exam. All individuals taking AWl Certification Exams Committees: have previously agreed as a condition of taking the exam MOTION (2) to establish a document titled "Rules that this appeals process is the exclusive means by which Governing Certification" which will include the certifica­ to seek review of a failing grade. Moreover, all individu­ tion operations process and certification appeal process. als have agreed that this appeals process shall be final and binding upon the individual and AWI. Rules Governing Certification 1. Notice of Appeal. Any individual wishing to Certification operations process: appeal a failing grade on any part of the AWl Certifica­ 1. The individual members of the Certification tion Exam must file a written Notice of Appeal with the Committee will each be responsible for the preparation of AWl Executive Director within thirty (30) days of receipt all watch/clock movements needed for the exams that they of his or her Certification Exam result. The form of the are grading. These movements will be prepared in ad­ Notice of Appeal is available at AWI' s headquarter office vance, and in sufficient quantity, and then returned to AWI by calling (513) 367-9800. The Notice of Appeal must be Central for distribution as needed. filled out, signed and received at AWI' s headquarters within 2. Regionalized testing would be employed for the the thirty (30) day deadline in order to be effective. CC, CMC, AWT, CWT, CW, and CMW examinations via 2. Certification Committee Review. Upon receipt our facility in Harrison Ohio, and qualified REC schools of the Notice of Appeal, the Executive Director shall sub­ or industry facilities. Examinations will be scheduled on mit an appeals packet to the Certification Committee for an as-need basis when there is sufficient request to justify review. The package shall contain the Certification Exam, the expenditure. but shall not disclose the identity of the individual seeking 3. Qualified REC schools will be allowed to ad­ appeal. Within ninety (90) days of the receipt of the No­ minister the CC, AWT and CWT exam upon official re­ tice of Appeal by AWl, the Certification Committee shall quest for their students, but the exams will always be re­ review the Certification Exam and vote on whether to turned to the Certification Committee for grading. uphold or overturn the failing grade. All votes shall be by 4. In all other cases exams will be administered the majority vote of the Certification Committee, but the by a qualified member or appointee of the Certification member of the Certification Committee that originally Committee. graded the Certification Exam shall not participate in the 5. The AWT, CWT, CW, and CC exams will be voting. The individual shall be promptly notified of the

January 2004 • Horological Times 39 results of the Certification Committee's vote. the Certified Clockmaker exam. Lathe Work The exam­ 3. Executive Committee Review. If any member inee will have a choice between these two projects, either of the Certification Committee dissents to the Certifica­ make a two-wheel and one-pinion gear train or make a tion Committee's decision to uphold a failing grade, then rack and snail striking mechanism. The Gear Train Project: the individual appealing the failing grade shall be granted the examinee will be required to cut two wheels and pin­ a further right to appeal the Certification Committee's de­ ions and upright them as a partial train between two plates cision to the AWl Executive Board. The notice from AWl with pillars. The Rack & Snail Project: The examinee informing the individual of the Certification Committee's will be required from one given measurement to calcu­ vote in upholding the failing grade shall also notify the in­ late, lay out, and construct an operable rack and snail strike dividual if he or she has the right to appeal that decision to mechanism. The examinee will complete a written and the AWl Executive Committee. If the individual is given practical examination. that right, he or she must exercise it within thirty (30) days 3. Associate Watch Technician: (AWT). This cer­ of receiving the results of the Certification Committee's tificate discipline will require a person to be competent in vote by sending a written notice to the AWl Executive the types of basic watch service that are frequently per­ Director requesting the appeal to the Executive Commit­ formed on-the-spot at the point of sales: For example, tee. The Executive Committee shall consider the appeal changing batteries, adjusting a watch bracelet, replacing a within ninety (90) days of the receipt of the notice by the bracelet or strap, replacing a gasket, identifying simple Executive Director. The Executive Committee shall up­ problems, identifying basic types of watch movements hold the failing grade or overturn it by majority vote. The (such as quartz, mechanical, solar, kinetic), etc. This cer­ individual appealing the failing grade shall be promptly tificate discipline will be granted via correspondence course notified of the Executive Committee's action once it is and/or participation in an appropriate AWI bench course(s). taken. There are no prerequisites. 4. Binding Decision. Except as noted in Section 4. Certified Watch Technician (CWT). This cer­ 3 above, all decisions of the Certification Committee in tification will require a person to be competent in the skills upholding or overturning a failing grade shall be final and required for at-the-bench service of a basic modem quartz binding upon AWI and the individual appealing the failing or mechanical watch: trouble shooting, cleaning and oil­ grade. In the event that the individual appealing the fail­ ing, water resistance, replacing movements and/or move­ ing grade is given a right to appeal to the Executive Com­ ment components, etc. This certification will be granted mittee, then the action of the Executive Committee in up­ when passing scores are obtained on an AWI certification holding or overturning the final grade shall be final and examination. There are no prerequisites. binding upon AWI and the individual appealing the failing 5. Certified Watchmaker: This certification will grade. require a person to be competent in the skills required for at -the-bench service of a basic modem quartz or mechani­ Rules governing certification: cal watch: trouble shooting, cleaning and oiling, water re­ 1. Certified Clockmaker: The practical work re­ sistance, replacing movements and/or movement compo­ quires the examinee to diagnose, overhaul, and repair one nents, etc. This person will also be required to possess modem German Westminster chime spring-driven mantel the abilities to accomplish complex trouble shooting, re­ type clock. The diagnostic portion requires the examinee place a specific part (such as a balance staff), adjust an to determine if he/she must make any of the following escapement, replace a damaged jewel, adjust a hairspring, repairs: Repair or replace power spring(s), Rebush set up (coordinate) a complex calendar mechanism, ad­ bearing(s), Replace broken teeth and/or pins in wheels, just a modem mechanical chronograph mechanism, etc. Correct and repair damaged levers and springs in the strik­ This certification will be granted when the examinee has ing mechanism, Synchronize the striking sequence, passed anAWI certification examination, written and prac­ Straighten bent wheel teeth and/or pivots, Polish pivots tical. There are no prerequisites. and pinions, Replace the suspension spring, Adjust the 6. Certified Master Watchmaker: In addition to hands, Adjust the escapement, Complete any other re­ the requirements of the Certified Watchmaker, this per­ pairs deemed necessary to put the clock in a condition son will be required to possess the abilities to identify com­ that it would perform satisfactorily for the customer. Lathe plicated watch movements and their parts, fabricate re­ Work: The examinee will be required to repivot and re­ placement parts (such as staffs, stems, springs, levers), place two teeth in a clock wheel furnished by AWI. The repi vot a watch pinion, vibrate a hairspring, etc. This cer­ examinee will complete a written and practical examina­ tification will be granted when the examinee has passed tion. an AWI examination, written and practical. And only af­ 2. Certified Master Clockmaker: Must pass the ter this person has held the title of CW for a minimum of exam for and serve at least two years in the grade of two (2) years, or has six (6) years of verifiable profes­ Certified Clockmaker. Note: Those with at least five years sional bench experience. of verifiable professional bench experience may take the 0 upgrade at any time following successful completion of

40 Horological Times • January 2004 ATTENTION AWl INTERNATIONAL MEMBERS

The Chronometer Club is an international theme chapter of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute. We provide a technical forum for professional horologists engaged in the service and repair of Certified Chronometer Watches, for the express purpose of enhancing the level of craftsmanship and elevating quality standards.

Our club produces technical newsletters four times a year, and an annual Membership Directory that enables each of us to communicate with other members on a direct basis. We also have an e-mail forum (eGroup) that focuses on technical discussions only; it is very active and helpful with technical problems, locating spare parts that are not in current production, and exchanging tips.

Canadian members of the AWl may join The Chronometer Club for only $25 US per calendar year, and most other international members may join this chapter for only $35 US per calendar year. For payment information and a registration form, contact Ewell Hartman, Secretary, The Chronometer Club, at [email protected] or by mail at 5114 Downy Lane, #203, Richmond, Virginia, U.S.A.

AWl BENCH COURSES

Advanced Clock Repair Beginning Lathe EDUCATION Clock Case Repair Clock Escapements Cuckoo Clock Repair ETA Products Bench Courses Filing & Flat Polishing 400-Day Clock Repair To schedule a Bench Course in your area please contact AWl for complete information. A list of available Bench Courses is printed hereforyourconvenience. To register for Bench Courses, please mail, phone, fax or e-mail Hairspring Vibrating your registration and payment information to: American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Introduction to American Pocket Watches Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696; Toll Free 1·866-367·2924, Phone (513)367 ·9800, Fax (513) 367-1414, E· mail: [email protected] PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest Introduction to Clock Repair date received. Please include a check or charge card number (Visa, Mastercard, Discover or American Express), Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair card expiration date, signature and phone number. All registration fee checks and charges are processed Lathe Program immediately upon receipt. DEADLINE FOR REGISTRATION IS 30 DAYS BEFORE THE SCHEDULED DATE OF THE COURSE. •Indicates Bench Courses held in conjunction with a convention or purchased by Mechanical Watch Repair an AWl Affiliate Chapter. For more information on these specific courses, please referto the contact information Micro Lathe Operations provided for each class. Mechanical Chronograph Organize Your Work Habits for Success DATE CLASS INSTRUCTOR LOCATION FEE Platform Escapements Repair of the Atmos Clock APRIL2004 Repair of the Bulova Accutron 34 Repair of the Atmos Clock Jeff Hamilton Grand Rapids, Ml $250.00 Seiko Kinetic Quartz Watch Repair 17-18 Clock Escapment Jerry Faier San Rafael, CA $250.00 Sequential Chime Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Striking Clocks A Study of the Deadbeat Escapement Swiss Auto Quartz

January 2004 • Horological Times 41 AWl-ELM Trust Update News That Is Worth Your "Time"

Gary Richards, Director of Development AWl-ELM Charitable Trust

I am pleased to report that attendance promotional and advertising efforts. In other to the AWl-ELM Charitable Trust's History words, you instantly recognize your strengths of Time Museum for the year 2003 is four and weaknesses. If attendance is low from a times higher than it was for the year 2002. We particular region or area of the country, then have been able to keep track of the number of your organization may want to increase its pro­ people visiting our museum by making sure that motional efforts in that region. Or, if the ma­ all individuals, excluding young children of jority of your visitors come from a particular course, sign our guest book as they enter the state or region of the country, then you may museum. To help keep a more accurate count want to focus most of your marketing and pro­ of the true number of visitors to our museum, I motional efforts on this particular state or re­ have been asking couples to sign their names gion of the country. It's all about knowing who individually if possible to avoid the potential your audience is. problem of two people being counted as one. Third, I can incorporate the names And, as tour groups enter the museum, they from the museum's guest book into my data­ are asked to line up and sign into the museum base list. This database is nothing more than a one at a time. This is done simply to make compilation of individuals who I know are sure that they do sign in as they enter the mu­ either supporters or friends of our organiza­ seum. Why is it important that we keep track tion or at the very least, individuals who are of the number of people visiting our museum interested in our museum and/or the horologi­ and where they are from? Well, there are a cal crafts. This database makes it possible for number of reasons. me to send these individuals future copies of First, it is important that we know the our quarterly newsletter, brochures, promotional number of visitors to our museum year to year fliers for special events, etc. so we can compare the numbers and make So, now that I have explained the im­ conclusions from the results. If the numbers portance of keeping track of our museum's are down from the year before or from previ­ visitors, let's get down to the actual numbers. ous years, changes may need to be made to In the year 2002, we had approximately 136 our public relations effort, etc. If the numbers people visit our museum. More people may are up from years prior, then we can continue have actually visited than this number reveals, to use the same successful public relations but this is the actual number of people who recipe that we have been using. It all makes signed our guest book that year. That number good common sense. Quite often, when you is low, but the good news is that 549 individu­ are writing a grant request for possible fund­ als signed our guest book during the year 2003 ing for a museum, you will find that the grantor (i.e., beginning January 2nd and ending De­ likes to know the number of visitors to your cember 11th). The reason the numbers are way museum and/or any trends that are being set up for 2003 is because the AWl-ELM Chari­ as far as attendance is concerned. table Trust has been proactively promoting the Second, it is very important to know museum throughout Harrison and the Greater where your visitors are coming from. This Cincinnati area via local newspapers (i.e., the way, you are better able to target a particular Harrison Press, the Cincinnati Enquirer, the region or area of the country for future Cincinnati Post, etc.), local television (i.e., we

42 Horological Times • January 2004 were featured on Cincinnati news in October), and vis-a­ vis special events that our organization has either hosted or participated in. Of these 549 visitors, 367 came from the state of Factory #796 (5913) 16 size Elgin hairsprings. Fits Ohio, 109 came from the nearby states of Indiana and 90% of all16 size models. Complete with collet Kentucky, 62 came from states other than Ohio-Indiana­ and stud. Kentucky, and 11 came from outside the USA. This means 03-4254 ...... $15.80 ea. that 67% of our visitors came from Ohio, 20% came from QUARTZ AND AUTOMATIC Indiana and Kentucky, 11% came from states other than WATCH SCREWS Ohio-Indiana-Kentucky, and 2% came from outside the assorted screws for Swiss quartz & USA. When you combine the states of Ohio, Indiana and automatic watches.Various sizes, styles, Kentucky, what is referred locally as the Tri-state region, and types...... $4.95 asst. we had 476 visitors or 87% of our total visitors. What excites me most about these numbers is that one-third of our total visitors are coming from outside of Ohio. And, Numerous Price Changes! approximately one out of every eight visitors to our mu­ By Cooksey Shugart, Tom Engle, and Richard iiiai E. Gilbert. The most reliable and convenient seum are coming from outside the Tri-state region, which guide to watches available. A mini-encyclope­ is extremely exciting and encouraging. dia with 1,216 pages, over 10,350 watches list­ So, the next time you are in the Greater Cincin­ ed, and over 7,850 illustrations. Includes cur­ nati area, stop by and visit our fascinating History of Time rent information, identification, tips, history, ,~~~ terminology and more. Museum, which is located at AWl's headquarters in beau­ i Regularly $29.95! tiful Harrison, Ohio. You will quickly discover that a tour ...... $24.95 ea. of our museum is time well spent. For more information or to arrange a visit/tour, please feel free to call me any time at 1-866-367-2924, ext. 315. Or, feel free to e-mail me at: [email protected]. 0

U $22.50- One Year U $19.5L1-- One Year Chronos Magazine Watch & Clock 0 $42.00- Two Years i:J $l5 00 - Two Yc>US 0 $60.00- Three Ycars is published 6 times 0 $50 00- Three Years Review is published Foreign suhscrihcrs add .$10 per per year for the Foreign subsnibcrs add $10 flcr 10 times rer year and year. (Ll S Funds from '\lear. ( U S F unrls (11-awn (rom lJ S. drawn U.S. connoisseur of b the industry's most­ bank only) loank only) . [} ChL•ck or money order enclosed luxury timepieces. C. Clwck "r rn"ncy ()rder cncl,Jscd used publicati(lll-the 1.] Charge my Visa or MasterCard Each issue presents 0 Charge my Vis~1 ,,r tvhst~.:rCnd only one in North 1 Card N''·------­ the finest watches ard 1 a. ------­ America devoted to Exp. [),lte------and clocks of today Exp. Dattl ------­ watches and clocks. - ig_11aturc ------­ Signature ------as well as exploring Get the one conve­ !'hone ______Ph, me ------­ premier vinrage nient source of indus­ Name------­ Narne ------­ collections. try news features Address.------Addn~s.s ------City ____ State--- City ____ St>uc ____ incltrding eight annu­ Zip ____ Country-- Zip Country -- al directory issues. Company Name-----­ l:nrnp(Jny N;.Hnc -----­ Type of Business------Type of Bu,im"s ------GOLD PLATING SERVICE ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE Classified Tank-Barrel-Brush Plating We are Factory Authorized Service for. • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP One piece or 10,000 pieces • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R Advertising Quick and Quality Service We service all makes of ultrasonics. all makes of watch rate recorders. and related equipment. 25 years experience. Call 1-800-256-0692 Regulations & Rates 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 Samson Technology Used Equipment Bought & Sold Ads are payable in advance 90¢ per word, ~ For Information ~ $1 .00 per word in bold type. Classified dis­ Corporation L::::J (415) 453-9266 ~ play ads are $40.00 per column inch, 2'.4'' 2240 SW 70th Ave. #E wide. Ads are not commissionable or dis­ Davie, FL33317 countable. The publisher may, at the publisher's sole discretion and for any rea­ E-mail: [email protected] ATMOS son and without notice, decline to publish or Service & Repair- Original Parts Only republish any ad, in which case any fees o 2-year Warranty on Labor submitted or paid for such ads shall be re­ o Lower Prices on Parts turned or rebated to the advertiser. The pub­ VERGE & LEVER RESTORATIONS o Faster Turnaround lisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price 40 Years Experience lists of services will not be accepted. Confi­ Barry J. Carter Clockmaster, Inc. dential ads are $10.00 additional for post­ (250) 216-0791 2537 So. Brentwood St. Louis, MO 63144 age and handling. The first of the month is [email protected] issue date. Copy must be received 30 days 1-800-837-1545 in advance (March issue closes for copy on (314) 968-1010 February 1'1) . HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR HOROLOGICAL TIMES Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 701 Enterprise Drive 500 and 505 Electric watches. Hamilton elec­ Harrison, OH 45030 tric watches and parts always wanted. Rene OK Rotors Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA Phone (513) 367-9800 94976. Tel: (415) 924-6534. E-mail: Phone: 330-628-9655 Fax (513) 367-1414 rene@ hamiltonwristwatch.com E-mail: [email protected] Fax:33Q-628-9255 E:mail: [email protected] VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION. Twenty-eight years experience, guar­ antee, free estimates. The Escapement, P.O. Box 522, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330- TRADESMAN 0866

POCKET WATCH & CLOCK , MUSIC BOX , GEAR MARINE CHRONOMETER REPAIR PINION CUTTERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUS­ General repair and restoration of antique and TOM MADE. TAN I ENGINEERING, 1852 St. Rt. complicated watches. Custom parts fabrica­ 44, Atwater, OH 44201; (330) 325-0645. Cata­ tion including staffs, verge staffs, stems, le­ log $3.00. vers, and springs. Located in Massachusetts. Matt Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; www.henningwatches.com FENDLEY &COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST CLEANING, RESTORATION & PART r------, 1530 Etain Rd ., Irving, TX 75060 MANUFACTURING FOR ALL RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 TYPES OF CLOCKS & WATCHES I DIAL I CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI 1 We service and restore all types and grades www.fendley-cox.com of watches and clocks. Patek Philippe, Piguet, : REFINISHING Vacheron & Constantin, Rolex, LeCoultre, Omega, Accutron, mechanical (all complica­ I DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, tions), tuning fork, electric, quartz, fusees, I ; FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. alarms, repeaters, chronographs, chronom­ I z· Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit eters, wristwatches, pendant watches, and the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK pocket watches. Antique or new. Also all I - • DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, styles of clocks: Atmos, cuckoo, 400-day, electronic, and quartz. Special repairs wel­ :a . • . 4 . Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. I ! ! ~ come. Staff manufacturing, repivoting, stem I manufacturing (regular and oversize), gear cutting, etc. Free estimates. Fast turnaround BEFORE AFTER I time. 37 years experience in watch and clock Quartz Conversions I ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR restoration and parts manufacturing. Diamond Dial Conversions ROLEX SERVICE J.S. Park, CMW, CMEW I Emblem & Name Personalization Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. Member AWl & NAWCC I Write for Brochures Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in Satisfaction Guaranteed 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin­ I INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. ishing & waterproofing of case. All watch TIME WORLD I 58W. SUGARTREE parts are genuine Rolex. We specialize in the 1240 Arbor Place Mall I P.O. BOX970 repair of high-grade watches & clocks. Not Douglasville, GA 30135 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 affiliated with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask (678) 715-7707 I (937) 382-4535 for Alvin or Marcus, (203) 792-4539. Man-Sat 10-9 Sun 1-6 L------.J 44 Horological Times • January 2004 MORGAN PIVOT POLISHER POLISH PIVOTS IN AS TEC Saecialties / eckcell!i LITTLE AS 5 · 7 SEC. Fine dl~ls and labels RUIIE.),1(61 Your battery connection and more ... fliSSIIE Be alGI~ lATHES· HOW'l0_!-11LI'f61t : ~~~~lfi,IA I(a\S .ZWkOO Ct.Cfl11 379 Main Street Stoneham, MA 02180

MORGAN CLOCK CO. ~ ~_,1, - ' - 80().805-2220 9-Bi CST NOW SUPPLYING MAINSPRINGS (NEWALL) MOR GANPIVOTPOUSHER.COM For American-made watches ~ ~i{f:~, $5.25 each, $48.00 per dozen .c~~-u ~ COMPLETE LINE OF SEITZ JEWELS INDEX WHEELS FOR WATCH & CLOCK­ Catalog wltb ..rund coupon 14.00 ppd www. tecspecialties .com EVEREADY, RENATA & MAXELL BATTERIES MAKERS LATHES. Made to fit your lathe. CNC Competitive pricing, monthly battery specials produced. Sold in sets or made to your specs. Jim Zarling PO Box 5042 MCIVISA Peterson Clockworks, 138 W. George St., St. So~&th Wllllam5port, PA 17702·0842 Paul, MN 55107-2754; (651) 224-2121. TOLL-FREE 800-514-1270 PHONE TOLL-FREE 800-690-3303 FAX STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? HOROLOGICAL MACHINING COMPANY or a watch part? Call Don Kraker's Watch Movements. (559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. Pinions, wheels, gears, staffs, stems, barrels, DASHTO INC./TOM MISTER 5th St., Fresno, CA 93726. levers, jeweling. We balance wheels, staffs http://www.dashto.com & hairsprings. Adams Machining, Makers of Huge and everchanging selection Watch & Clock Parts. (417) 257-1345. Used and new horological items W.R. Smith "how to make" clockmaking books: Sold by internet list only Skeleton Wall Clock; Grasshopper Skeleton TOOLS/EQUIPMENT Clock; Lyre Skeleton Clock; Modelmaking Tools GLASS CRYSTALS MATERIALASSTS/PARTS & Techniques; Workshop Techniques; & all For pocket watches and wristwatches. For POCKET/WRISTWATCHES John Wilding books- $45 each, postpaid. WR price list/order blank: Send SASE to Mel Kaye, WATCH MOVEMENTS Smith, FBHI, FNAWCC, CMC, CMW, CMEW, 8049 Box 322, Basking Ridge, NJ 07920. WATCH CASES & DIALS Camberley Dr., Powell, TN 37849. Phone (865) WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES 947-9671. E-mail: [email protected], Web: MUCH MORE http://horology.magnet.fsu.edu/wrsmith.htm ARTICLES FOR SALE WE BUY & TRADE ALSO tom@ dashto.com http://dashto.org SHERLINEPRODUCTS Regula and H. Herr cuckoo movements. Com­ Free catalogs upon request plete selection. Also factory stopper new Her­ Limited Supply on Hand of Machines & mie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our regu­ Accessories at Pre-Price Increase Prices lar wholesale prices. Call Butterworth 1-800- Starrett Collets Now Available 258-5418. ANTIQUE CLOCKWORKS, LTD. TOURS P.O. Box 201, Loretto, MN 55357 Toll Free 877-643-7698 Henry B. Fried Memorial- 31'1 Annual Horo­ W.R. Smith 2-hour Workshop Videos (VHS or E-mail: info@ AntiqueCiockworksltd.com logic Tour: Italy (Milan - Private Collections, DVD): Graver Making & Hand Turning; Wheel www.AntiqueCiockworksltd.com Poldi-Pezzoli Museum; Meet H.O.R.A.; Bergamo Cutting; Pinion Making & Depthing; Workshop -Antique Market; Italian Riviera -Luxora Horo­ Procedures; Tooling the Workshop- $60 logic Museum, Absolut Glass Clocks Manufac­ each postpaid. WR Smith, FBHI, FNAWCC, CMC, ture, Florence - Galileo Museum Of Science; CMW, CMEW, 8049 Camberley Dr., Powell, TN . ' Tungsten Carbide Gravers Rome) Mediterranean Cruise (Sorrento­ 37849. Phone (865) 947-9671. Correale Museum, Capri, Messina-Astronomi­ E-mail: [email protected], Web: http:// 2" Fine Diamond Wheels cal Clock; Malta- Astronomical Temples; Malt­ horology.magnet.fsu.edu/wrsmith.htm Sapphire Burnishers ese Clocks; Santorini, Ephessus, Athens- Old­ est Water Clock, Olympia - Birthplace of the seen allhe NAWCC marts lhis summerl Olympic Games, Corfu, Dubrovnik, Venice) April If You Repair Clocks . 17-May 04, 2004. Brochure? 1-800-262-4284 you need our all new Catalog #28. www.eternaltools.com 159 High St- Pershore- Worcs WR10 1EQ- UK or www.horologytours.net

SITUATIONS WANTED

Wostep Graduate with twenty five years of experience. Seeks position with friendly High Grade retailer or service center. High grade mechanical and quartz experience. Rolex ex­ perience also. Please reply to: Horological Times, Box SW12304, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. Timesavers Box 12700 Scottsdale, AZ 85267• USA 480-483-3711/480-483-6116 [email protected] I www.timesavers.com Our 152 page Catalog #28 is $3 post paid

January 2004 Horological Times 45 HELP WANTED WANTED TO BUY

IWC .Jib + ...... -...... ,JAr:Gr:R-uCouLTRf-' YACHERON CONSTANnN Wanted: verge and cylinder staffs and old steel -­ PW [email protected] 250-216-0791 xcellent opportunities ACCUMLATIONS WANTED!! are available We offer a competitive Buying Watchmakers' Stock of Old Watches, for highly skilled watch­ salary and benefits Cases, Movements, Watch Material, all types of wristwatches from common brands to all makers to work for package and will assist the famous makers. some of our prestigious in relocation. Serious buyer. Serious offers. Richemont North Don Meyer 1-800-833-3159 We welcome you to 12900 Preston Rd. #325 send resumes to: Dallas, TX 75230 E-mail: donmeyer@ hotmail.com "WM/RNA Richemont North Candidates should have America, Inc. BUYING WATCHMAKER ESTATES, TOOLS, knowledge of traditional HRDept. MATERIAL, MOVEMENTS, POCKET WATCH COLLECTIONS, in Midwest and Western USA. watchmaking skills. 645 Fifth Avenue Larry, [email protected], (970) 263-8807, Proficiency with NewYork, NY Box 84, Whitewater, CO 81527. complications is a plus. 10022 Qualified watchmakers We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any Or-please fax your will receive training on amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, brand specifics related to resume to: silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment our watch workings, (212) 826~24 return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICANMETALSCOMPANY,253KingSt., movements and We al O!>E'omrity Elrplo}'ot; M/ttO/V Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established complications. 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073.

Small CHELSEA or WATERBURY move­ ment needed to fit miniature carriage clock, 2"H X 1 W'W X 1 "D. (919) 369-9800 [email protected]

,..,~•• ~---~,. .. ® Authorized Service/Repair Center

Polar, the leading mfr of wireless heart rate monitors, seeks a service Duties include battery changes, waterproof testing, analyzing center on the West Coast to become quartz & mechanical move­ an authorized repair center for mail­ ments, polishing gold & in/walk-in repairs of Polar heart rate stainless steel, with special monitors - Ideally an established finishing techniques. Work watch repair business in a central must be clean & precise. Ideal location to provide battery change candidate will be analytical thinker and mise repairs to electronic watch with good communication skills who is professional & conscientious. receiver and replacement of trans­ We also fit glass crystals to Some travel required. Openface, Hunting, and English mitters. Investment for parts & ,..~ .. Please fax or email chain drive watches. equipment required. Great ROI. resume and cuver letter to: Complete watches, dials, Fax: 212-956-0222 POLAR ELECTRO INC. movements, case springs for sale. 1111 Marcus Avenue, Ste M15 Lake Success, NY 11 042 G F Specialties contact: Christine Ombres CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN JEWI::LLERS 1-800-351-6926 (800) 227-1314, ext 3043 or eoe e-mail christine.ombres@ polar.fi P.O. Box 170216 www.polarusa.com Milwaukee, WI 53217

46 Horological Times • January 2004 Collector seeks Early American watches, move­ ments and dials by the following firms: WE BUY ENTIRE C Fasoldt, GP Reed, Mozart, US Marion, Empire City, Royal Gold American, Cornell, California, WATCH COLLECTIONS Newark, Western, JG Hall, Nashua, Pitkin, New I 'S TIME York Springfield, DD Palmer, Freeport, MS TO SEl..L Smith, Hoyt, Allison, San Jose, Otay, KW Call Toll Free Howard, Von der Heydt.... I will even buy ac­ cumulations - please contact Desmond Lundy, 1-800-426-2344 A WATCH Box 30112, Victoria, BC V8X 5E1 or e-mail 203-366-2500 TOP PRICES PAID! fermenthaus@ shaw.ca ROlfX • PATEK PHILIPP.! SPECIALTYMETALS V. CHERO & CO STANTI REFINING AUDEMARS PIGlJET BUYING OLD ROLEX WATCHES BRElTLI G • CARTIER Explorer, Submariner, Sea-Dweller, GMT, COMPANY,INC. & OTHERS - Milgauss, Bubbleback, Cosmograph, Chrono­ 1915 Black Rock Turnpike graph, Speed King, Oyster, any partial watches, When you're l"f!iJd to II Fairfield, CT 06430 C.1ll Toll Free movements, dials, crowns, signs, clocks, anything Rolex. Members: 1-800-842-8625 Ron Fried, Alv.'flvs prompt pa ment! Call Don Meyer 1-800-833-3159 President Better Business Bureau "I look forward to Jewelers Board of Trade giving you honest 220 Consecutive Ads ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS and reliable service." Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have helped over 130 watchmakers in the last six years to dispose of their accumulations. When WATCH MATERIAL you're really ready to sell, we're ready to DISTRIBUTORS buy! Phone (727) 327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Please call us if you are interested Nancy. E-mail: [email protected] in selling your business. All replies confidential. Contact Pat Cassedy Cas-Ker Co. (513) 674-7700

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Industry Advisory Board Members The purpose of the AWl Industry Advisory Board is to give assistance to the president, the directors, and the general membership of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute on any projects undertaken by the organization; and to recommend to and advise the president and directors on any matter or subject for the betterment of the Institute, its members and the industry.

Bulova Watch Co. Jewelry Industry Distributors Sy Kessler Sales lncJRenata U.S. H.E. Carnasion Association (JIDA) Henry Kessler Woodside, NY Andrew Avery Dallas, TX Chevy Chase, MD Butterworth Clocks Inc. Tiffany & Co. Mark Butterworth S. LaRose Inc. Michael Biondolillo Muscatine, lA Greensboro, NC Flushing, NY

Cas-KerCo. Livesay's Tourneau Lou Esselman Henry Livesay Anthony Riggio Cincinnati, OH Tampa, FL Westport, CT

Cooper & Co., Inc. Wm. S. McCaw Co. Watch & Clock Review AI Cooper Gerald Wilson Bert Kalisher, Editor Cincinnati, OH Toledo, OH Hewlett, NY

Esslinger & Co. Richemont NA Witschi Electronics USA, Inc. Bill Esslinger Willem Van Kempen Tony Voight Saint Paul, MN New York, NY Palmyra, NJ

Societe Suisse de Chronometrie Anne Thierrin Neuchatel, Switzerland

January 2004 Horological Times 47 Advertisers' Index

American Periit Crystal Corp ...... 37 Ferrell & Company ...... 25 McCaw Co., WilliamS ...... 3 (212) 246-8292 (213) 627-6031 (419) 243-3720

Borel & Co., Jules ...... 5 d. Freemont Swiss Watches ...... 31 Primrose Supplies, Inc ...... 29 (816) 421-6110 (877) 236-9248 (801) 485-3908

Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 27 Frei & Borel ...... 19 Smith Supply House ...... 35 (800) 258-5418 (51 0) 832-0355 (213) 622-1687

Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover International Watch Collectors Society ...... 7 Time Connection, Inc ...... 35 (513) 674-7700 (516) 374-5060 (213) 624-2675

Chronos/WCR ...... 43 S. LaRose, Inc ...... 43 Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 21 (303) 296-1600 (336) 621-1936 (516) 437-8700

Clocks ...... 11 Livesay's, Inc ...... 23 Witschi Electronics USA Ltd ...... 11 011 01 31 228 6638 (813) 229-2715 (800) 882-7977

Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover Max ell Corp ...... back cover (651) 452-7180 (201) 794-5900

AWl Employee Directory

James E. Lubic, CMW Nancy L. Wellmann Gary Richards Executive Director Education Coordinator AWl-ELM Charitable Trust Education & Technical Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 Development Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 nwellmann@ awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 315 jlubic@ awi-net.org grichards@ awi-net.org Sharon McManus Lucy Fuleki Membership Coordinator Laurie Penman Assistant Executive Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 Clock Instructor 1-866-367-2924 ext. 304 smcmanus@ awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 lfuleki@ awi-net.org Ipenman@ awi-net.org Mary Huff Thomas J. Pack Shipping Coordinator Steve Jones Finance Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 305 Audiovisual Manager 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 mh uff@ awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 308 tpack@ awi-net.org sjones@ awi-net.org Heather Kyde Donna K. Baas Receptionist/Secretary American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Managing Editor/Advertising Manager 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 or (513) 367-9800 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 hkyde@ awi-net.org Fax: (513) 367-1414 dbaas@ awi-net.org E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awi-net.org Office Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Closed National Holidays

48 Horological Times • January 2004 Cas-Ker Spring Bar Assortments 3 t ' Our most popular assortments contain 216 stainless spring bars each for only $19.95 Buy any 3 of these four assortments, and get a fourth one ofyour choice - Free! Offer good thru the month of this issue of Horological Times.

Our spring bar assortments now come in a handy plastic compartment box with sliding lid

1.30mm Stainless 1.30mm Stainless 1. 50 mm Stainless 1.80 mm Stainless Double Shoulder Double Flange Double Flange Double Flange 12 each size 6 thru 22mm. 12 each size 6 thru 22mm. 12 each-size 7 thru 24mm. 12 each size 8 thru 24mm. 1.30mm diameter. 216 total. 1.30mm diameter. 216 pieces. l.SOmm diameter. 216 pieces. 1.80mm diameter. 216 pieces. 900.200 ...... $19.95 900.085 ...... $19. 95 900.086 ...... $19 .95 900.144 ...... $19 .95 Refills 1 Size ..... $3.00dz $101100 Refills 1 Size .$3.50dz $7.20/100 Refills 1 Size .. $3.50dz $7.20/100 Refills 1 Size .. $3.50dz $9.00/100 The best buckles you'll find for leather straps ... in solid stainless steel New heavy steel buckles are made of solid stainless. They are high quality and highly polished. Our starter assortment includes two each 8mm, 12mm and 18mm, and four each 10mm, 14mm and 16mm, eighteen buckles total. $ 900.069 Buckle Asst...... 19 .9 5 Refills ...... $3.00ea 3@$2.50ea 6@$2.00ea 12@$1.50ea Assortment includes 6 popular sizes CALL 1-800-487-0408 Cas·~&(J(o. FAX 1-800-487-5848 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 LOCAL PHONE 513/674-7700 FAX 513/674-0600 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 Shop our web site: www.casker.com THOSE WHO PUT

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0UALITV. INNOVATION. lONGEVITY. maxell THE WORLD lEADER IN MICRO BATTERY TECHNOLOGY