1. Between Ceira and Douro: a Long Wi- Ne-Making Vocation

1. Between Ceira and Douro: a long wine-making vocation

In the heart of the Douro Demarcated Region, on the steep and stony schist slopes of the Douro and Ceira rivers, in the parish of Gouvinhas, the vineyards of the Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira farms, today gathered in a continuous property of the Bulas Cruz family, produce Douro and Port wines of excellence, continuing the ancient wine tradition inherited from their ancestors and other previous owners, who, over the centuries, transformed these wild and inhospitable places into “hanging gardens”. It is this history that, in a brief record, we will try to understand in this book, crossing information about the evolution of the lands and the families that owned them, investments in wine production, times of crisis and decay, as well as renewal and growth, the relationship with the markets and the recognition of their wines.

Anyone who observes the succession of vineyards from the right bank of the Cei- ra, the Douro river or from the top of Quinta da Costa de Baixo can only imagine the titanic work that it was necessary to employ, in successive generations, to transform these slopes of poor soil. in verdant vines of vine, when all tasks, from the surriba to the plantation, to the various farms and the vintage, were manual labor. And the har- dness of what was the cultivation of the vine in these lands until the second half of the 20th century gains even more expression if one takes into account other natural conditions of the place, from the excesses of the climate, with dry and hot summers, and the violence of the mountain river, which flowed in the rainy winters, dragging everything in the torrent, and almost dried in the dry season, forming silt in the bed, raising mosquitoes and palustrial fevers. Death records from past eras are filled with farm workers who died stricken by sezões. But, if the environmental conditions were

1. Panorâmica das quintas da Foz Ceira e da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

7 adverse to human work and the harvests were scarce, given the poverty of the soils, the excellence of the fruits compensated the tiredness. It is that, on the slopes of the Douro, the same repulsive factors of human life combined to make sublime wines. The poor and stony schist soils, if they did not produce abundant harvests, offered high quality wines. The hot and dry summers, conducive to good ripening, provided sweet grapes like honey, with unmistakable aromas and flavors. For centuries, human labor has been able to take advantage of these gifts of nature, creating a unique wine culture here, accumulating and transmitting knowledge and practices of vine size and the art of making sublime wines. From terraced planting techniques, to support the vineyards and avoid erosion, to the selection and combination of noble grape varieties and to the meticulous culture of the vineyards, to the winemaking practices and the aging care of wines, it is all an ancestral heritage that is present in each Douro farm.

It can be said that, in the last decades, radical transformations have marked the region’s vitiviniculture, but they have not erased this heritage, rather they have been combined with it, valuing traditional knowledge with the most advanced technological and scientific innovations. The mechanization of surribas, the planting of vines on terraces or at the top, regardless of the old shale walls, the careful selection of vines, often with pre-grafting, the use of machines in many vineyard works, from pruning to pits and the application of phytosanitary products, or the robotization of the treading of grapes in the mills and the use of self-wine vats transformed, in a few years, the viticulture of the Douro. This third great wine revolution, which few decades ago believed was possible, softened the work of man, without affecting, on the contrary, the essence of wine-growing traditions and the goodness of wines.

As we tour the estates of Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira, with a careful eye, we realize that this revolution, still underway, does not hide many signs of the ancient history of these properties. Here and there, some terraces with schist walls are still preserved, among the patches of more recent vineyards on terraces or at the top. Next to the River Ceira, you can see the sidewalk on a ramp that went down to the pier, now submerged, from where the wine barrels were loaded in the rabelos to continue downstream to Porto. Since the sixties, with the construction of dams, not only the river regime has changed, but also the image of Quinta da Foz Ceira. The rise of the

2. Trabalho mecanizado nas vinhas atualmente. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 3. Trabalho manual nas vinhas antigamente. Fotografia da Casa Alvão. Col. Centro Português de Foto- grafia. 8 9 waters of the Douro River in the wide Bagaúste reservoir submerged the land almost to the railway line, at the same time that it transformed the inconstant river of yore into a serene lake. Long before that, in 1880, the construction of the railroad had already subtracted part of the farmland. The houses, with the old wine presses and the cellar, are modest, having undergone successive restoration works, suitable for the small vineyard exploitation, managed by the Companhia das Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro for more than a century, nothing reminding us of the noble origins of the fifth.

Along the railroad and the river bank you can still see old buildings that have been destroyed, the ruins of houses and warehouses at Quinta do Cais, now integrated in Quinta da Costa de Baixo. When this house was built, probably in the second decade of the twentieth century, part of a 1761 landmark was reused on the main door jamb, brought here from another farm located further north, above the Seixo stream. In 2006, after the collapse of the aforementioned portal, this landmark was removed to the patio of the Quinta da Costa de Baixo1 home.

Going up the slope towards the main farmhouse, we find another old warehouse, probably from the 18th century. And another, even older, is next to the road that gives access to the farm. In a nearby vineyard, stands a granite landmark of Pombaline demarcation from 1758. A few dozen meters to the west, the old entrance gate of Quin- ta da Costa de Baixo displays the date of 1836. South of the entrance courtyard, is located the large warehouse of the farm, dated 1840, evoking the golden age of the vineyard expansion of the farm. To the north, the two-storey house extends, already largely rehabilitated to correspond to the new wine tourism projects, namely with a visiting room for wine tasting. To the west, we come across an extensive threshing floor with large slate slabs and granite guards, testifying to the times of wine crisis of the late 19th century, when a large part of the property would have been voted for cereal production.

The estates of Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira, which today are part of a single farm, held by the company Bulas Family Estates, are the result of a long historical process of investment in viticulture. Integrated in the “living and evolving cultural landscape” of Alto Douro Wine Region, which Unesco classified in 2001 as World He- ritage, these farms have been gradually recovered and modernized, to guarantee the

4. Ruínas na Quinta do Cais. Fotografia de José Afonso Bulas Cruz. Col. Bulas. 5. Marco pombalino encontrado na Quinta do Cais. Fotografia de José Afonso Bulas Cruz. Col. Bulas.

10 11 economic sustainability of their exploitation and, at the same time, at the same time, safeguarding the heritage values and environmental balance of the place.

Studying the history of these farms poses some insurmountable difficulties. The fact that it is a viticultural exploitation resulting from the consolidation of several neighboring farms and lands, which passed through different owners, translated into the dispersion, disappearance or destruction of several family documentary col- lections. Despite this, it was possible to gather significant documentation in public archives, in particular in the Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro, currently deposited in the Douro Museum, which keeps nu- merous documents related to Quinta da Foz Ceira, since the beginning of the 19th century to mid-20th century, period in which this farm, owned by the nobleman Gonçalo Cristóvão and his descendants, was managed by that Company. Also in this archive, it was possible to collect information about the wine productions of the Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira farms, in the Company’s Wine List Books, from the 1770s to the mid-19th century. And the Archive of the Port Wine Institute, also deposited in the Douro Mu- seum, provided some documentation for the last decades of the 20th century. I must express here my public thanks for the facilities granted by those responsible for that Museum for consulting and digitizing many of these documents. Other archives, in particular the Vila Real District Archive, with important digitalized funds available online, but also the Archive of the Douro Wine Studies Center and the Archive of the Vila Real Land Registry, helped to gather information, which, together with the one provided by the Bulas Cruz family, allowed us to understand some of the main moments in the history of the estates of Foz Ceira and Costa de Baixo. In the task of gathering this documentation, I was able to count on the help of Pedro Abrunhosa Pereira, who also provided me with other valuable information, resulting from land surveys, carried out during several weeks in which the Bulas Cruz family farms ran.

Página seguinte - 6. Paisagem dos vales dos rios Ceira e Douro a partir da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

12 13

2. The origins

2.1. The Lords of the Land

The history of many Douro estates, where the art of making fine wines was developed, is very old. In the parish of Gouvinhas, this wine vocation dates back to Ro- man times, as revealed by various archaeological remains. In the neighboring Quinta do Crasto, the structure of a wine press from that time was recently discovered, along with a coin by Emperor Constantine II (337-340) and immense fragments of ceramics from the same period, especially of dolia (hoists for storage of wine)1. A few kilometers to the northwest, on the edge of the parishes of Canelas and Poiares, the fortified villa that dominates the Fonte do Milho site, classified as a national monument, evidences this Roman presence in this territory for almost two millennia, between the 1st and 5th centuries , and its involvement in wine production, as shown by the traces of a cella vinaria, a wine press and abundant fragments of dolia2.

After the end of the Roman Empire, the Douro valley, like all territories in the former provinces of Galecia and Lusitania, was occupied by Suebi and Visigoths, who were Christianized in the meantime. And, in the 8th century, it would suffer the invasion of Moorish algae, becoming the scene, for almost three centuries, of wars between Christians and Muslims. In these troubled times, when feudal society was structu- red, the dominion over the land and the peasants came to be exercised by a warrior

1 PEREIRA, Pedro - Quinta do Crasto - Archaeological Works Report, June 2017; PEREIRA, Gaspar Martins - Quin- ta do Crasto. A story that comes from afar (1615-2018). Porto: Quinta do Crasto, 2018, p. 56-60. 2 ALMEIDA, Carlos Alberto Brochado de (coordin.) - History of the Douro. I - Antiquity. Porto: GEHVID / Afron- tamento, 2006, p. 374-375; PEREIRA, Pedro Abrunhosa - Wine in Lusitânia. Porto: CITCEM, 2017, p. 90-96.

7. Mortórios de antigas vinhas, cobertos por vegetação espontânea. Fotografia de Filipa Soares. Col. Bulas.

17 elite, through arrogance or through donations and inheritances. As in other areas of the Douro and the country, at the time when Portugal was being formed as an independent kingdom, in the 12th century, the stately possession of the land, a symbol of power and social prestige, was divided between the nobility and the clergy. In Gouvi- nhas, the documentation of that time, such as the Charter of 1256, under the reign of D. Afonso III3, or the Inquiries of 1288, ordered by D. Dinis4, points to a strong presence of noble inheritors and, as it happened throughout the area do Douro, for wine-growing activity, as can be deduced from the frequency of forums and other taxes paid on wine. However, with greater or lesser evidence, documents from the medieval and modern times also point to subsistence agriculture, including land for bread, chestnut groves, olive groves and other crops, alongside livestock and hunting.

Since the end of the Middle Ages, between the 14th and 16th centuries, wine production seems to have developed in several areas of the Douro to supply the port market and, from there, other more distant markets. In the following centuries, throughout the Modern Period, Douro’s involvement in vitiviniculture grew, along with the exploration of other products with a mercantile vocation, such as sumac.

At the turn of the seventeenth century to the eighteenth century, at a time when the export of fortified wines from the Douro to England developed, there are already explicit documentary references to the estates of Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira as units of wine exploration.

In April 1698, Quinta da Foz Ceira was in the possession of several heirs of a noble family from Vila Real. The document analyzed refers to D. Isabel de Bessa5, 3 HERCULANO, Alexandre (ed.) - Portugaliae Monumenta Historica. Leges et Consuetudines, I. Lisbon: Lisbon Science Academy, 1866, p. 666. 4 SOTTOMAYOR-PIZARRO, José Augusto de (ed.) - Portugaliae Monumenta Historica. New series. Vol. IV / 2: Inquisitiones: General inquiries by D. Diniz from 1288, Sentences from 1290 and Executions from 1290. Lisbon: Academia das Ciências de Lisboa, 2015, p. 176-177. 5 Born in Favaios, into a wealthy family (daughter of Pedro de Bessa de Barros da Mesquita, morgado of Espírito Santo, nobleman of Casa Real and captain-chief of the village of Favaios, and Inês de Barros and Bessa), D Isabel de Bessa married in 1690, by proxy, the nobleman João Teixeira de Miranda, son of Jorge Teixeira de Miranda, already deceased, resident at his Quinta de Arroios, in Vila Real (Vila Real District Archive. Notarial. 5 Vila Real Notary Office - Gradebook, 1687-1690 Power of attorney from João Teixeira de Miranda to Paio de Barros, 18.05.1690, page 83v-84). The husband, a few months ago, will have survived the marriage, having already died when the couple’s son, João, was born on 11.04.1691 (Vila Real District Archive. Parochials. Arroios - Baptism registration book, 1671-1705, fl. 29) . The widow, D. Isabel, continued to live at Quinta do Paço, in Arroios. Her

8. Primeira página da escritura de venda da Quinta da Foz Ceira, em 10.04.1698. Arquivo Distrital de Vila Real. Livro de notas do 5.º Cartório Notarial de Vila Real, 1696-1698, fl. 146v.

18 19 married on second nuptials to Serafim de Sousa Pinto, residing at her Quinta do Paço, in Arroios, and to the sisters of her first husband (João Teixeira de Miranda), Joana Teixeira de Miranda, single, also resident there, Sofia Teixeira de Miranda, widow of the graduate António Leite de Aguiar, resident in Vila Real, Guiomar Borges de Mi- randa, married to Jerónimo de Barros de Bessa, from Favaios, and Marta Botelho de Miranda, married with Baltasar Barroso, from Vila Pouca de Aguiar. This division by a significant number of landowners, whose life trajectories had dispersed them to other lands, where they had many real estate assets, along with the difficulties in obtaining property in Foz Ceira and other properties in Gouvinhas, would have advised the sale of the farm, in a a time when the great demand and appreciation of the generous wines of the Douro by the British market increased the price of good producing estates in the region of origin, with many people interested in their purchase, in order to get involved in the wine business.

We do not know since when the Teixeira de Miranda family owned Quinta da Foz Ceira (and other houses and lands in Gouvinhas6) or when they started investing in wine production, but at that time, the description of the property reveals to us that Foz Ceira already had the structures of a vineyard farm, with «a vineyard with its

situation would not be relieved, due to the many debts left by her husband, probably due to the construction or works carried out in the solar of Paço. But her father will support her marriage, on second nuptials, with Se- rafim de Sousa Pinto, from a family of notables from Vila Real (son of Serafim de Sousa Pinto and Dona Maria Botelha), endowing her with 600 $ 000 reis (Archive District of Vila Real, Notary, 8th Notary Office of Vila Real - Gradebook, 1694-1695 Dowry of Pedro de Bessa de Barros, from the village of Favaios, his daughter D. Isabel, 30.04.1694, fl. 12-13). Less than fifteen days later, Jerónimo de Barros and Bessa, also captain-major of Favaios, and married to Guiomar Borges de Miranda (probably sister of D. Isabel’s first husband), took the responsibility of the dowry to his sister (Archive District of Vila Real, Notaries, 2nd Notary Office of Vila Real - Gradebook, 1693-1695 Obligation and expression of Jerónimo de Barros e Bessa, from the village of Favaios, to Serafim de Sousa Pinto, from Vila Real, 11.05 .1694, fl. 51v-52). Between 1695 and 1703, the couple had six children (Manuel, Luís, António, Miguel, Isabel and Serafim). We do not know what motivated the couple to leave the house of Paço, at an uncertain date, between the birth of the last two children, taking up residence in the parish of S. Pedro, in the center of Vila Real (Vila Real District Archive. Parochials. Arroios - Baptism registration book, 1671-1705; S. Pedro - Baptism registration book, 1698-1709). Serafim de Sousa Pinto died shortly after the birth of his homonymous son (02.04.1703), since, two and a half months later, D. Isabel appears to us, in another notarial act, as a widow, leasing, for five years, in his name and that of his children, houses, lands and olive groves, in Gouvinhas, to Father Domingos Botelho de Mendonça, vicar of that parish, for 33 $ 000 réis / year (District Archive of Vila Real. Notarial. 5th Notary Office of Vila Real - Gradebook, 1703-1704. Deed of lease, 15.06.1703, fl. 15-15v). Isabel de Bessa died in Vila Real on 12.18.1708. In his will, he left his brother Jerónimo de Barros and Bessa, from Favaios, the responsibility for tutoring his minor children (Vila Real District Archive. Parochials. S. Pedro - Testament registration book, 1707-1716, fl. 12v -14). 6 In 1644, in a land deed in Gouvinhas, Jorge Teixeira de Miranda, from Arroios, appears to us as a landowner next to the Agoaneiras, facing one of the windrows of that period. District Archive of Vila Real. Notary. 5th Notary’s Office of Vila Real - Gradebook, 1644-1645, fl. 79v.

9. Registo de alvará de moço fidalgo da Casa Real de Paulo de Carvalho e Melo, da Casa de Donelo, 18.09.1702. Arquivo Nacional da Torre do Tombo. Registo Geral de Mercês, Mercês de D. Pedro II, liv. 15, fl. 45v 20 10. Casa de Donelo, dos descendentes de Paulo de Carvalho e Melo, senhores da Quinta da Costa de 21 Baixo durante mais de dois séculos. Fotografia de Pedro Silva. Col. Bulas. winepress, vat, cellar houses, casks, with its olive trees that are in the middle of the vineyards, with its hills around the said vineyards». As today limited to the South and West by the Douro and Ceira rivers, the farm still had a “nascent” in one of these rivers, which valued the property, as it guarantees abundant fishing.

According to the deed of sale that we have been analyzing, the farm was sold to one Domingos Correia, single, a blacksmith from the village of Canelas, for 450 $ 000 réis7. During those years, this blacksmith from Canelas invested in the purchase of many other properties, especially in his area of residence, which allows to infer his social ascension, becoming a wealthy farmer8. However, he did not keep possession of Quinta da Foz Ceira for long. We do not know when and why he sold it, but, a few years later, the estate belonged to an influential businessman from Vila Real, brother of several brotherhoods and of Misericórdia, Domingos Pereira Corgo, bailiff of the Tobacco Contract, who, in November of 1707, when leasing the tobacco contract in the Chaves region for three years, together with his partner José Moreira Pinto, he pledged, in addition to other properties in Alvações do Corgo and Vila Real, his Quinta da Foz Ceira, «Which consists of vineyards, olive groves, bread lands, terraced houses and roofs, with its cellar, crockery and wine press, which starts from a band with the said Douro River and the other with the Rio Ceira, which is well worth buying for always two thousand cruzados»9, that is, 960 $ 000 reis10, which means that, in less than a decade, the value of the farm more than doubled.

Perhaps motivated by the growing demand and the increase in the price of wines, in the early 18th century, Domingos Pereira Corgo and his wife, Luzia Martins de Carvalho, invested in Quinta da Foz Ceira. They built a new winery and bought water use rights from their neighbors, who own vineyards on the Costa (where Quinta da Costa de Baixo is now located), Luísa de Sousa, widow of Francisco Botelho Correia, and her daughters Clara Maria Botelho, single, and D. Maria de Vasconcelos, this wi- 7 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 5th Vila Real Notary Office - Gradebook, 1696-1698. Deed of April 10, 1969, fl. 146v-149. 8 See, for example, Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 1st Notary Office of Canelas - Grade books, 1699-1701, 1701, 1702-1703. Various scriptures. 9 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 3rd Notary’s Office of Vila Real - Gradebook, 1706-1709. Deed of 11.06.1707, fl. 72v-74v. 10 At that time, the cruzado was equivalent to 480 réis.

11. Túmulo de João Teixeira de Macedo, do século XV, na capela de S. Brás, em Vila Real. No início do século XVIII, o morgadio de S. Brás pertencia a Bernardo José Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mes- quita, que se tornou também senhor da Quinta da Foz Ceira. Postal ilustrado, 1904. Col. Elísio Amaral 22Neves. 23 dow of Paulo de Carvalho e Melo, who live on her farm in Donelo. It is worth analyzing network of Domingos Pereira Corgo led, some years later, to the transfer of possession this deed of purchase, carried out in October 1710, which included, in addition to «a of Quinta da Foz Ceira to the powerful Bernardo José Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da muddy tree with five olive trees, with its land», adjoining Foz Ceira, the «easement of a Mesquita (1684-1738), from Vila Real, young nobleman of Casa Real, lord of Sergude stream of water through the bottom of the vineyard da Costa ‘. As hired there, the water and Teixeira, morgado of Abaças and S. Brás, married to D. Mariana Francisca Pereira «that the buyer will take from the bottom of his vineyard [of the sellers] that they have da Silva, heir to Casa do Bonjardim, in Porto. We do not know when the sale of Foz on the Costa site, wherever it is more convenient for the buyer to be able to take water Ceira to the nobleman of Teixeira took place, but we suppose it may have been shortly to his cellar house that the buyer made at his Quinta de Foz Ceira, so that the water before the death of Domingos Pereira Corgo, in 1715, as he left several debts in his will, flow will go through the bottom of the vineyard and the mountain lands that sell them including 16 gold coins that Bernardo José Teixeira owed him. It is possible that such ». And, further on, the ladies of Donelo authorized Domingos Pereira Corgo to build «a debt was related to part of the value of the farm that had not yet been paid by the no- levada with his sidewalk to be able to take said water with his use over the wall of the bleman. Moreover, the notes he left in his will indicate close relations between Domin- levada where he will go and guide the said water of luck that he do not harm your farm, gos Pereira Corgo and the Teixeira Coelho family, since the testator asked to be handed with the declaration that the sellers will remove all the water that is necessary for them over to Francisco José, nephew of Senhor da Teixeira, the «róis, with their parchment to water all the fruit they have from the bottom of the levada or land which they will covers. », Where he had pointed out other debts14. not be able to stop the buyers and after watering they will not use more of the so-called The new owners of Quinta da Foz Ceira, Bernardo José Teixeira Coelho de Melo water they sell and in case there is a puddle where the water is made it will be for them Pinto da Mesquita and D. Mariana Francisca Pereira da Silva, died, respectively, in 1738 sellers to have it hunted without opening the levada and whenever the buyers lack the and 173915, passing on the farm and many other properties to their son, Gonçalo Cristó- water on their farm so as to water as for filing they will be able to come and guide and vão Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mesquita, then in his early twenties. Some years fetch them, nor will the salespeople be able to prevent him from seeing her fetch and later, in 1751, when he was living in Lisbon, Gonçalo Cristóvão appears to us in a «deed guide and the salespeople will be able to irrigate them with the said water in the form of perpetual license and permutation», signed, through his attorney, with the Congre- declared above and leaving enough water to r egar and filing said buyer to his farm will gation of the Oratory of S. Filipe de Nery da city of Porto and with other farm owners not enter the farm of these sellers »11. The vendors’ farm, above Quinta da Foz Ceira, nearby, including João Antunes Guimarães, from Porto, João Correia Botelho and João was certainly Quinta da Costa de Baixo, although still without that name, belonging to Teixeira de Macedo, from Vila Real, for the construction and easement of a road from the same family as Donelo since at least the end of the 17th century12. Quinta da Siderma, dos priests from the Oratory, to the pier on the Douro River, next In 1711, certainly due to the investments made by Domingos Pereira Corgo, Quin- to Quinta da Foz Ceira, including the construction of a bridge of stone slabs of stone ta da Foz Ceira was valued at four thousand cruzados13, twice the price that had been over the River Ceira, to facilitate the transport and shipment of the wines from these attributed to it four years earlier. However, the family vicissitudes and the business estates16. As can be seen from the Parish Memories of 1758, the Foz Ceira pier would 14 Vila Real District Archive. Parish. S. Pedro de Vila Real - Death registration book, 1707-1716, fl. 111v-112. 11 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 7th Vila Real Notary Office - Gradebook, 1710-1711. Deed of 10.31.1710, fl. 15 Bernardo José Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mesquita, baptized in the parish of S. Pedro de Vila Real on 72v-74v. 18.09.1684, died at his home in Sergude, in Felgueiras, on 20.09.1738, and D. Mariana Francisca Pereira da Silva 12 In the deed of sale of Quinta da Foz Ceira, in 1698, the same Luísa de Sousa, from Donelo, is mentioned as con- died , also there, on 12.12.1739. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. S. Pedro - Baptism registration book, 1672- fronting. District Archive of Vila Real. Notary. 5th Vila Real Notary Office - Gradebook, 1696-1698. Deed of April 1698, fl. 58v; Porto District Archive. Parish. Sendim - Death registration book, 1712-1744, fl. 167 and 168v. 10, 1969. 16 Porto District Archive. Congregation of the Oratory of São Filipe Néri, Porto - Book of Sentences, 1685-1790, 13 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 4th Vila Real Notary Office - Gradebook, 1706-1709. Deed of 20.05.1711, fl. 41v- fl. 150-165v; District Archive of Vila Real. Notary. 6th Vila Real Notary Office - Gradebook, 1750-1752. Deed of 42. 11.23.1751, fl. 84-87v.

24 25 really be the only one in the entire parish, which would increase its strategic importan- ce, in an area populated with vineyards and with poor land access: «Within the limits of this parish there are no settlements [of the Douro River], only a port or pier where the things necessary for human use are embarked and disembarked at all times »17.

The neighbor Quinta da Costa belonged, since the end of the 17th century, to D. Luísa de Sousa Pereira, daughter of Tomé de Araújo e Sousa and Ana Ferreira de Aze- vedo, from Casa de Donelo, and already a widow of Francisco Botelho Correia18. After getting married, around 1665, Luísa moved to Sabrosa with her husband, where they had at least four children19. When her youngest daughter, Clara, was born in November 1673, her husband had passed away, we do not know under what circumstances. With the four children, Luísa must have returned by that time to her father’s house, Quinta de Donelo.

For several decades, until he died in 1728, D. Luísa de Sousa Pereira managed the vast properties of Casa de Donelo, first with the help of his daughters Maria de Vas- concelos and Clara Botelho and, later, also of his grandson Paulo. The eldest daughter, Joana, must have died at a young age and her son Manuel would have followed an ecclesiastical career, having died in Braga, in 1703, at the age of 3220. D. Maria de Vascon- celos married, at the age of 17, in 1685, with Paulo de Carvalho and Melo21, nobleman of the noble houses of Ribalonga and Espinhosa22. But the marriage lasted just over 17 Apud CAPELA, José Viriato (coordin.) - The parishes of the Vila Real district in the Parish Memories of 1758. Me- mories, History and Heritage. Braga: ed. author, 2006, p. 425. 18 Son of Dr. Francisco Botelho Correia, from Vila Real, and his wife Maria de Vasconcelos. Braga District Archive- Genere Inquiries. Genre inquiry by Manuel Botelho Correia, to take orders, 13.07.1696. I thank this information and others related to the genealogy of the Carvalho e Melo / Sampaio e Melo families to Dr. Manuel Sampaio Graça. 19 Joana, n. 28.01.1667, Maria, n. 27.10.1768, Manuel, b. 14.03.1671, e Clara, n. 11.11.1673. Arquivo Distrital de Vila Real. Paroquiais. Sabrosa — Livro de registo de baptismos, 1629-1685, fl. 58, 60, 64v-65 e 73v. 20 He died on May 17, 1970. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Covas do Douro - Death registration book, 1682-1713, fl. 30v. 21 The wedding took place in the chapel of Santa Maria Madalena, in Donelo, on 20.12.1685. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Covas do Douro - Marriage registration book, 1684-1714, fl. 1. 22 Paulo de Carvalho e Melo was the son of Garcia de Melo and Sampaio (the latter died in 1680, noble lad of Casa Real, by license of February 5, 1967, 4th lord of Ribalonga, 3rd administrator of the morgados of Nossa Senhora da Graça de Ansiães, Judge of the Orphans of Castanheiro do Sul and Valença, in succession to his father-in-law, by letter dated 07/05/1965, captain of Castanheiro do Sul, by letter dated 07/29/16, brother of the Misericórdia de S. João da Pesqueira, in 1650), and his wife (married c. 1646) D. Francisca Pinto de Carvalho, baptized in S. João da Pesqueira, on 08.09.1621, lady of Casa da Espinhosa. Paulo de Carvalho e Melo was a noble young man at

12. Mapa antigo da região do Douro. Col. Torre do Tombo. 13. Barco rabelo, utilizado no transporte de vinho. Fotografia da Casa Alvão. Col. Centro Português de Fotografia. 26 27 three years, as Paulo died of an accident in January 1689, leaving his widow, D. Maria de Vasconcelos, then 20, with daughter Luísa, 16 months old and pregnant with another child , who was to be born almost seven months after his father’s death23. Her daughter Luísa Maria de Melo and Sampaio would marry, in Donelo, in 1714, with Morgado do Seixo, from Sernancelhe, Jorge de Figueiredo e Sousa, son of Manuel de Figueiredo e Sousa and D. Maria Antónia de Carvalho, born in city of Almeida and lords of Casa do Seixo, Sernancelhe24. Luísa’s brother Paulo de Carvalho e Melo remained single, but, as we shall see, he had two children, which he would later legitimize. Continuing to live in the maternal home, the noble boy from Casa Real25 would inherit Casa de Donelo, as well as Quinta da Costa, after the death of his mother in 1724 and his grandmother in 172826. He would further add to his heritage , with the inheritance of his aunt, D. Clara Botelho, who died unmarried in 173427.

2.2. At the time of demarcation of «fine wines»

In the middle of the 18th century, with the commercial crisis that affected the exports of fortified wines from the Douro to England, the prices paid to farmers for these wines dropped significantly. The great landowners of the region moved influences to the Court and the powerful Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, Secretary of State of King José. It was, after all, the main export product of the Kingdom, whose devaluation had a strong impact on the national economy. That is why, in a regime of enlightened Casa Real (in succession to his father and grandfather, by license of 13.11.1666) and had even started studying at the University of Coimbra, where he enrolled in Instituta in October 1683. Thank you for this information to Dr. Manuel Sampaio Graça. 23 Paulo de Carvalho e Melo died in Donelo, on 01.01.1689. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Covas do Douro - Death registration book, 1682-1713, fl. 105. Luísa was born in Donelo, on 02.09.1687; Paulo was born in Donelo, on July 24, 1968. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Covas do Douro - Baptism registration book, 1681-1709, fl. 49 and 53v. 24 The wedding was celebrated in the Donelo chapel, on July 25, 1714. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Covas do Douro - Marriage registration book, 1684-1714, fl. 27-27v. 25 The «moço fidalgo» license was granted to him on September 18, 1970, when he was 13 years old. National Archi- ve of Torre do Tombo. General Registration of Mercês - Mercês of D. Pedro II, Book 15, fl. 45v. 26 The mother, D. Maria de Vasconcelos, died on 10.10.1724, in Donelo; her grandmother, D. Luísa de Sousa Perei- ra, died there, on April 15, 1728. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Covas do Douro - Death registration book, 1713-1739, fl. 31v and 35v. 27 D. Clara Botelho died unmarried, on January 19, 1734, in Donelo. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Covas do Douro - Death registration book, 1713-1739, fl. 39v.

14. Estampa alegórica evocativa da Instituição da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro por Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo. Gravura de Maurício José do Carmo Sendim. Lisboa: Imprensa Nacional, 1838. Col. Biblioteca Nacional. 28 29 15. Marco da demarcação pombalina de 1758, na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmen- to Costa. Col. Bulas. 16. Pormenor do marco da demarcação pombalina de 1758, na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de 30Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 17. Portal da Quinta do Cais, em cuja construção tinha sido reutilizado esse marco. Fotografia de José Afonso Bulas Cruz. Col. Bulas. 18. Parte do marco da adição à demarcação de 1761. Fotografia de José Afonso Bulas Cruz. Col. Bulas. 33 despotism, the central power would have an interest in safeguarding the production Carvalho, Donelo = Francisco José Taveira, Vila Real = Father André Álvares, Vigário and business of these wines, alongside the protection of the elites involved. The model de Roios = and that of Father António José de Macedo, from S. Martinho de Anta»29. found, under the pretext of defending the genuineness of the product, against fraud At that time, the fine wines of Gouvinhas, white and red, were reputed among the and counterfeiting, and valuing the respective price, through the balance between su- best in the Douro, being highly sought after by English exporters, who paid them for pply and demand, was that of a company with majestic powers, capable of regulating high prices. In the Parish Memories of that year, 1758, the parish priest of Gouvinhas and controlling production, transport and trade of ‘feitoria wines’, as the best wines highlighted: «The greatest abundance of fruits, which are harvested in this parish is of in the region were then called, which had Britain as an almost exclusive market. Es- very fine wine, with great pulse and security, white and red, which the English usually tablished by royal charter of D. José, on September 10, 1756, the Companhia Geral de buy and others traders transport to England, Brazil and other climates, at the prices Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro was, from the outset, tasked with demarcating that the occasions allow. And there have been years when the finest was sold in this the area producing fine wines, which became the oldest region demarcated and re- parish, the kite, at fifty thousand réis. An Englishman, who carried this wine to En- gulated vineyard in the world. The owner of Quinta da Foz Ceira, Gonçalo Cristóvão gland, after three years in a bottle [bottle], made it a sample to put on this land without Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mesquita, was one of the shareholders of the Initial corruption»30. Fund of the Company, having acquired 10 shares for 4,000 $ o000 réis, which he paid on December 15, 175628. However, the English preference for red, strong and full-bodied wines had evolved in the previous decades, both in the winemaking process, with the addition of The estates of Foz Ceira, by Gonçalo Cristóvão, and Costa de Baixo, by Paulo de brandy during the fermentation of the must, and in the vine culture, introducing new Carvalho and Melo, were included in the first demarcation of fortified wines, carried grape varieties and stimulating grafting and substitution of white varieties for paints. out on the land in 1758, with the addition of a few more properties in 1761, as witnessed Gouvinhas was famous for his excellent white wines, as can be read in the Memories the granitic landmarks that are still preserved there. At the Costa site, the 1758 demar- of 1721, along with other interesting information: «In this parish, very subtle white cation, starting from the Douro River, began to take place, precisely at the limit of the wine is produced, a lot of oil, a lot of honey, little bread, many early fruits, cheeses two neighboring estates, which justified the first mark placed in that area to be paid by like Montemor, mountain pigs, rabbits and partridges in quantity; all the fruit that its owners. Read the Tomb of the Demarcations: «Sítio da Costa / Principia the demar- the land produces is very subtle, and the most select; it is very hot in summer, and the cation of this land in the same Douro River for the northern part of it, and in Foz do dry and roasted and poor people from outside have many properties in that parish»31. Rio Ceira, where for the part of the Source of said Ceira a landmark was it costs Gonçalo The British taste for red wines, which the Company’s legislation eventually enshrined, Cristóvão Teixeira Coelho, from Vila Real, and Paulo de Carvalho, from Donelo. [this through the devaluation of white wine prices and other measures, would translate into landmark must be the one that is still preserved today on the farm with the inscription wine conversion, through the grafting of red grape varieties, in such a way that, in the «FEITORIA / MELO»] / And from this landmark the demarcation runs up the Ceira end from the 18th century, the production of generous white wines was already quite river until reaching the Aguaneiras brook, where another mark was placed for the East small compared to that of reds. part of the said Ceira river in Father António José de Macedo’s vineyard. […] Staying 29 FONSECA, Álvaro Baltasar Moreira da - The Pombaline Demarcations in the Douro Wine Region. Vol. 2. Porto: in this circle comprised five farms, which are Gonçalo Cristóvão, Vila Real = Paulo de Port Wine Institute, 1950, p. 96-98; see also FAUVRELLE, Natália (coord.) - Marcos da Demarcação. Peso da Régua: Douro Museum Foundation, 2007, p. 117. 28 SOUSA, Fernando de (coordin.) - Real Companhia Velha. General Agriculture Company of Alto Douro Vi- neyards (1756-2006). Porto: Center for Population, Economy and Society Studies, 2006, p. 64; Douro Museum. 30 Apud CAPELA, José Viriato (coord.) - The parishes of Vila Real district in the Parish Memories of 1758, p. 424. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro - Documents of Gonçalo Cris- 31 SOUSA, Fernando de; GONÇALVES, Silva - Memories of Vila Real. Vol. 2. Vila Real: Vila Real District Archive / tóvão. Vila Real City Council, 1987, p. 413.

34 35 2.3. The prison of Gonçalo Cristóvão and the decay of Foz Ceira

Quinta da Foz Ceira should receive little attention from Gonçalo Cristóvão. Fidalgo da Casa Real, donor of the village of Teixeira and Sergude, morgado of S. Brás, Abaças, Espírito Santo (Quinta de Prados), in Vila Real, and Montalvão, commander of Tolões and Vieira, with manors, farms and many other properties spread throughout the North32, among which the Bonjardim house and farm, in Porto, lived, like other members of the nobility, of the land rents, spent in the treatment imposed by the social statute, in horses, coaches, servants and other luxuries. In the middle of the 18th century, Gonçalo Cristóvão normally resided in his Bonjardim palace, in Porto, but he spent long periods in Lisbon, attending the Court and depriving people of the high nobility. At that time, Quinta da Foz Ceira would probably be leased and wine production would be quite reduced compared to other subsistence crops, namely cereals. In the Listings of Boarding Wines, made by the Company’s tasters from 1770, the Foz Ceira winery does not even appear mentioned in that first year. And, in 1771 and 1772, only 1 kite and 6 kites, respectively, were registered in the name of Abbot Manuel Ramos Vieira, certainly the tenant of the quinta33. Then, between 1773 and 1791, those books, which registered year after year all the wines in the cellars of the demarcated region, any references to the Quinta da Foz Ceira cellar, ceased to appear. The state of abandonment of the property was reflected, certainly, in the degradation of its vineyards, the wine workshop and the container. We do not know if the farms in the vineyard were abandoned or if the grapes were sold to neighboring farmers “in the basket” or the little wine produced “in the mouth of the mill”, as was common practice among small producers. We are inclined towards this last hypothesis, since, after the death of Gonçalo Cristóvão, the widow, D. Francisca de Noronha Manuel de Portugal, began to manifest the wine in some years between 1792 and 1799. She did it only in four of

32 AZEVEDO, Correia de - Coat of arms and emblazoned houses in the Douro. Lamego: Lamego Graphics, 1974, p. 53-54. 33 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro - Books of Listings of Embarking Wines, 1771-1772. Father Manuel Ramos Vieira was, at that time, abbot of the Cathedral of Porto. As mentioned in an 1819 document, which we will quote below, this abbot would have had two small presses (3 and 4 kites) built.

19. Fronstispício da Petição de revista, que pediu Gonçalo Cristóvão Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto de Mesquita da sentença proferida a favor de Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo… feita por Francisco Xavier Teixeira de Mendonça, 1750. 36 37 those years, but the annual average of 8.75 barrels indicates some investment in wine production. Between 1800 and 1830, records of the wine production of the farm no longer appear. However, as we will see below, if, by this time, all references point to the complete degradation of vineyards and buildings, the investments made since 1820, with the planting of a few tens of thousands of strains, would have increased, it would have increased significantly, production, at least from the middle of that decade. The omission of these productions can be explained by the transport of the wine produced in Foz Ceira to other family farms, namely Quinta de Celeirós or Quinta da Azinheira34.

In the second half of the 18th century, the abandonment of Gonçalo Cristóvão›s vast estates would have resulted from the disgrace of the nobleman, victim of the political persecution that moved Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo to him. As his homonymous son, Gonçalo Cristóvão Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mesquita, married later with D. Teresa José do Carmo Freire de Andrade, will write later in 1820: «when supplicants entered the Administration of their House, they found it very deteriorated because of the Father and Father-in-Law of the Supplicants not to be able to administer, neither physically nor morally, as everyone knows the reason for his prolonged imprisonment of the State, and continuing his deterioration in the minority of the first Supplicant, as soon as they entered his administration they cared so much for his improvement»35. However, the reasons for Gonçalo Cristóvão’s arrest (which was followed by the arrest of his sisters) in the Junqueira prisons, in June 1761, are still shrouded in mystery. Using much documentation at the time, Camilo Caste- lo Branco, in his book Perfil do Marquês de Pombal, tried to clarify the reasons that would have given rise to the hatred that moved the powerful Secretary of State against Senhor da Teixeira, one of the great in the Kingdom. Gonçalo Cristóvão’s genealogical scrolls extended to knights from the time of Portugal’s formation as an independent Kingdom, from D. Moninho Viegas, from Gascony, to Egas Moniz and to his son Lou- renço Viegas, the «Espadeiro», who accompanied Afonso Henriques and D. Sancho in several battles36. Among the various honors, donataries and bonds that the family had 34 Museu do Douro. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro - Books of Lis- tings of Embarque Wines, 1773-1850. 35 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. 36 See, for example, SILVA, Manuel de Souza da - Furniture from the generations of Entre-Douro-e-Minho. Vol.

20. Localização da Quinta de Santo António do Bonjardim, no Porto, no início do século XIX. Pormenor da Planta de George Balck, 1813. Col. Arquivo Municipal do Porto.

38 39 accumulated over generations, the morgadio de Montalvão had already aroused a demand on the part of the grandfather of the Marquis of Pombal, who tried to take over from him, without success, but renewed by his grandson, even before 1750. Through his lawyer, Francisco Xavier Teixeira de Mendonça, from Vila Real, Gonçalo Cristóvão managed to dismantle Sebastião José’s claims37. In 1756, Francisco Xavier Teixeira de Mendonça, then a lawyer at the Casa da Suplicação, in Lisbon, would be arrested and later deported to Angola, where he died, for being involved in a conspiracy that aimed to remove from the Court Sebastião José38. Given the friendly relations between this lawyer and Gonçalo Cristóvão, it is likely that he may also have been involved in this conspiracy.

It was also said that «the count of Oeiras, wanting to marry his daughter with a son of Gonçalo Cristóvão, lord of Bonjardim, had argued the claim saying that the Oaks were inappropriate of the Gardens»39, as Camilo Castelo Branco says, despite consider the hypothesis “unlikely”, especially since Gonçalo Cristóvão had no children, and at most he could be one of his sisters.

In his narrative, based on the correspondence of the French ambassadors in Portugal to the Duke of Choiseul, Secretary of State of Louis XV, Camilo sought to unravel the plot that led to the arrest of Gonçalo Cristóvão and his sisters, accused of involvement in the escape of José Policarpo de Azevedo, servant of the Duke of Aveiro and one of the men who shot King D. José, on September 3, 1758. It does not matter

1. Ponte de Lima: Carvalhos de Basto Editions, 2000, p. 301-312. This Nobiliário, written between the end of the 17th century and the beginning of the 18th century, was one of the sources used by Camilo Castelo Branco. 37 See, for example, MENDONCA, Francisco Xavier Teixeira de - Magazine petition, which asked Gonçalo Cristó- vão Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto de Mesquita of the sentence handed down in favor of Sebastião José de Car- valho e Melo, on the morgados, which instituted Pedro de Magalhães, and his son Simão de Melo: and for being vacant due to lack of descendants of the last Marqueses de Montalvão, Martim Teixeira Coelho de Melo, donor of the village of Teixeira, and Sergude were judged by the final sentence in 1705 , supplicant’s grandfather / made by Francisco Xavier Teixeira de Mendonça. Lisbon: Francisco Luís Ameno’s workshop, 1750; cf. SILVA, Inocêncio Francisco da - Portuguese Bibliographic Dictionary. Volume III. Lisbon: Imprensa Nacional, 1859, p. 97. 38 Francisco Xavier Teixeira de Mendonça was the editor of a long anonymous letter (dated February 25, 1756) delivered to King D. José, which contained serious accusations against Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo. This Letter that was written from Portugal to a great one in Spain in response to another of his, kept in the National Library, was published by Emílio Salgueiro in «A moral pombaline (An unprecedented document)». Broteria, vol. 10 and 11, June and July 1930, p. 337-356 and 17-28. 39 CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - Profile of the Marquis of Pombal. In CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - Complete Works. Vol. XVI. Porto: Lello & Irmão Editores, 1993, p. 619. See also SILVA, Germano - «An oak does not look good in a garden». Vision, 02/13/2016.

21. Capa de brochura da primeira edição do livro Perfil do Marquês de Pombal (1882), de Camilo Castelo Branco. Colecção particular de Rui Domingues.

40 41 here to go into the details of this royal attack or the barbarity of the penalties imposed son and heir, Gonçalo Cristóvão, was then 12 years old, his mother managing his assets on noble families implicated in it, namely the Duke of Aveiro, the Marquis of Távora until the boy reached the age of majority. and the Count of Atouguia, but only the alleged responsibility of Gonçalo Cristóvão in that escape. According to a letter of 2 May 1759 from the Count of Merle, French ambassador to Portugal, to the Duke of Choiseul, that day two servants from Gonçalo 2.4. The expansion of Quinta da Costa de Baixo Cristóvão were arrested40. And, about two years later, on June 21, 1761, another letter from the new French envoy, M. de Saint-Julien, stated “that 4 nobles had been arrested In the Pombaline era, while Quinta da Foz Ceira was in a long process of aban- with all their servants, who are inmates in several convents in the province of Alentejo, donment and decay, neighboring Quinta da Costa (now Costa de Baixo), belonging and in some of the prisons in Lisbon, for having, it was said, favored the escape of José to the Carvalho e Melo family from Donelo, also does not seem to have gone through Policarpo, one of the assassins of El-Rei: they were the three noble brothers of Gonçalo times of great prosperity, probably for reasons related to the family transition that oc- Cristóvão Pereira [confusion with Teixeira ] Coelho, representative of Egas Moniz»41. curred at the end of that period. Its owner, the nobleman Paulo de Carvalho e Melo, 46 Despite the various inaccuracies, as Camilo well saw, the French ambassador was cer- died single in January 1768, at the age of 78 , leaving all his assets, such as those he had tainly referring to the imprisonment of Gonçalo Cristóvão and his three sisters, for the inherited from his aunt, D. Clara Botelho, to his two sons, Manuel António de Carva- 47 reason already mentioned, in the Junqueira prisons42, from where Teixeira’s nobleman lho e Melo and Dona Francisca de Carvalho . In the will that he made a year before he would only leave sixteen years then, in 1777, after the death of King D. José and the re- died, at the Mantelinha site, “to the couto and marco stone that divides the Vila Real placement of the Marquis of Pombal in the government. Gonçalo Cristóvão then retur- term and the Vila e couto de Gouvães term”, he explained that the two sons had already ned to Vila Real, aged 62. We do not know when he married his cousin D. Francisca de been profiled: «He declared testator that the said his goods left them to the said his Noronha Manoel Portugal43, but the couple would still have a son, to whom he would children whom he leaves for his universal heirs because they were already outlined by 48 name his father, born on January 1, 1779, at Rua das Flores, in Vila Real44. His Majesty and by such confirmed by the said Lord» . Perhaps that is why he insisted so much on the exclusion of any other heirs, including his nephews: testator, because The last years of the nobleman Gonçalo Cristóvão’s life should not have been they are already satisfied with the dowry that touched them and they take for granted easy. His long prison had kept him away from the administration of his vast domains, and satisfied with a deed and that only those their children will be lords and possessors 45 whose recovery required time and health, which he did not have. He died in 1791 . His of all their assets»49. 40 SANTARÉM, Visconde de - Elementary picture of Portugal’s political and diplomatic relations with the different powers of the world, since the beginning of the Portuguese Monarchy. I take VI. Paris: Aillaud, 1850, p. 155. As a male son and executor appointed by his father, Manuel António de Carvalho 41 Idem. Volume VII. Paris: Aillaud, 1850, p. 18. that the other sacraments were not given the opportunity to be administered”. District Archive of Vila Real. Pa- 42 IIdem, ibidem; CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - Profile of the Marquis of Pombal, p. 609-624. About Junqueira’s rish. S. Pedro de Vila Real - Death registration book, 1777-1799, fl. 126v-127. prisons and Gonçalo Cristóvão’s stay there, see also: ALORNA, 2nd Marquis of (João de Almeida Portugal) - Junqueira’s prisons during the Marquis of Pombal’s ministry, written right there by the Marquis de Alorna, one 46 Paulo de Carvalho e Melo died in Donelo on 08.01.1768. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Covas do Douro - of his victims, published according to the original by José de Sousa Amado. Lisbon: Tip. de Silva, 1857, p. 27 and Death registration book, 1740-1852, fl. 47v. 71-74. de Silva, 1857, p. 27 e 71-74. 47 Manuel António de Carvalho e Melo was the son of Maria Francisca Alves, from Guiães, and Francisca Maria de 43 Born in Nossa Senhora de Oliveira, Guimarães, daughter of Francisco Xavier Cardoso de Alarcão and Josefa Mar- Carvalho e Melo was the daughter of Maria Engrácia Pinto, from Vilar de Maçada. garida Antónia Pinto Coelho Pereira e Silva. It is likely that it is the daughter of this couple, born in that parish, 48 We thank Professor Cristina Cunha, specialist in Paleography, for her support in reading this part of the docu- on 11.05.1743. Cf. Alfredo Pimenta Municipal Archive. Parish of Santa Maria de Oliveira do Castelo - Baptism ment, which has poor handwriting and poor care. In this case, the notary certainly intended to note that Paulo registration book, 1728-1748, fl. 366-366v. In that case, she would be 27 years younger than her husband. de Carvalho e Melo had profiled the two sons he had had as a bachelor and that such profiling had been accepted 44 Vila Real District Archive. Parish. S. Pedro de Vila Real - Baptism registration book, 1775-1787, fl. 79v-80. and confirmed by the King, since he was a nobleman of the Royal House. 45 Gonçalo Cristóvão Teixeira Coelho Pinto da Mesquita died in Vila Real, on February 28, 1979, “so unexpectedly 49 Testament of Paulo de Carvalho e Melo, 01.02.1767. District Archive of Vila Real. Notary. 1st Provesende Notary Office - Gradebook, 1766-1769, page 6-7.

42 43 e Melo was concerned with the management of paternal assets, which remained undivided until 1777. In the early years, Manuel de Carvalho would have leased the farm to Father Caetano Lopes, from Andrães , who, in 1770, manifested 9 barrels of red wine and 2 of white50. But the wine that this priest kept in the cellar might not correspond to the Quinta da Costa production. Two years later, in the debauchery carried out to punish those who did not respect the laws of the Company, introducing wines from outside the demarcated wine factory area, it was discovered how this priest transpor- ted wines from «de branch »of another winery he owned in Gouvinhas, outside the demarcation51. Perhaps for this reason, Manuel de Carvalho e Melo started to directly manage the farm, which, in 1773, produced only 4 kites52.

Only at the end of 1777, after the wedding of D. Francisca Maria de Carvalho e Melo with António Pereira da Silva, lord of Casa de Gouvães53, did the two brothers make friendly shares, «by private writings»54, with Manuel António de Carvalho and Melo with «Quinta da Costa with all its belongings that consists of roofed and terraced houses and other areas with its mills, vines, woods and trees, where they call the Costa […] part with Francisco José Taveira Pimentel de Macedo and with Gonçalo Cristóvão Teixeira Pinto Coelho from Vila Real; and so more with the lameiro located at Vale da Figueira, with its source at the top and irrigation and lime water and all the headwa- ters of one and the other part of the said lameiro; as well as with the land where the mystical Seara Velha is called the said lameiro and leave with the road that goes to the place of Gouvinhas and with António de Araújo from the place of Donelo; and thus

50 Museu do Douro. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro - Book of Listings of Wines of Embarque, 1770. 51 OLIVEIRA, António Braz de; MARINHO, Maria José (org.) - Devassa to which His Majesty ordered in the territory of the Upper Douro by the Judge António de Mesquita e Moura (1771-1775). Lisbon: National Library, 1983, p. 15 and 258. 52 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro - Book of Lis- tings of Wines of Embarkation, 1773. 53 Son of António Rodrigues and Maria Pereira da Silva. The wedding must have taken place at the end of 1776 or the beginning of 1777, since the couple signed a marriage deed on 08.09.1776, with D. Francisca represented by her brother. District Archive of Vila Real. Notary. 1st Provesende Notary Office - Gradebook, 1774-1777, fl. 52-53. The couple’s first child, João, was to be born on 12.27.1777, in Gouvães, as godfather (by proxy) their great uncle, D. Frei João Evangelista Pereira da Silva, Bishop of Pará. Vila Real District Archive. Parish. Gouvães - Baptism registration book, 1750-1808, fl. 102v-103. 54 These friendly shares were made on 11/30/777 and confirmed by public deed on 4/3/1978. District Archive of Vila Real. Notary. 1st Notary Office of Provesende - Gradebook, 1780-1784, fl. 141v-144.

22. Livro de Arrolamentos de Vinhos de Embarque, 1770. Museu do Douro. Arquivo da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro. 23. Livro de Arrolamentos de Vinhos de Embarque, 1773. Museu do Douro. Arquivo da Companhia Geral44 da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro. 45 one more lameiro under the road covered over itself and in the same place it leaves with the stream and with João Manuel Pereira da Silva; another house that serves as a cellar with its services located in the same place and part of a band with Maria de Sousa widow and the public street; and another stretch of land located at the Pedragal limit of the same place as Donelo and leaves with António de Araújo and Ana Pereira widow from the same place; another property where they call the Migerra covered over with its orchard, houses and trees, vineyards, wetlands and olive trees, wetlands and irrigation and lime waters; and thus another stream of land taken up with an olive tree through which passes the path that goes to Roxa, whose properties previously declared and confronted are all located within the limits of the said places of Gouvinhas and Donelo and were evaluated by the praised in this already nominated in two contos and six hundred thousand reis ». In turn, D. Francisca took Donelo’s houses and many other properties in that parish, valued at the same value as those that belonged to her brother55.

Manuel António de Carvalho e Melo had, however, married Maria Caetana Teixei- ra de Azevedo, from Gouvinhas, where he went to live. This family transition coincided with a growth scenario for Port wine exports, which will have stimulated new plantations in Quinta da Costa. Since 1779, the Company’s Listings have again registered wines in the cellar of the quinta in the name of its owner and in increasing quantities (on average 28.2 barrels per year between 1779 and 1787). And, from 1788, probably due to the investments by Carvalho and Melo and the extension of the demarcated area, with the Subsidiary Demarcations (1788-1792), which will have allowed to transport wines from other properties there, the production increased substantially, arriving reaching 75 kites (in 1788 and 1814), with the average of the years 1788 to 1814 being 46.6 kites56. A map of the Douro River, drawn around 1790, highlights the estates of Foz Ceira and Costa de Baixo, which is identified by the name of its owner, «M.el Carv.o»57.

The son of Manuel António de Carvalho e Melo, José de Carvalho Melo and Sam-

55 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 1st Notary Office of Provesende - Gradebook, 1780-1784, fl. 141v-144. 56 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro - Book of Lis- tings of Embarking Wines, 1779-1814. 57 Chorographic chart of the currents of the Douro River and adjacent lands from the Teixeira River to São João da Pesqueira, c. 1790. National Digital Library.

24. Excerto da escritura de partilhas entre Manuel António de Carvalho e Melo e sua irmã e cunhados, referindo a Quinta da Costa, 03.04.1783. Arquivo Distrital de Vila Real. 1.º Cartório notarial de Proves- ende, 1780-84, fl. 142. 46 Página seguinte - 25. Carta corográfica das correntes do Rio Douro e terrenos adjacentes desde o rio 47 Teixeira até São João da Pesqueira, c. 1790. Biblioteca Nacional Digital. paio, followed his ecclesiastical career. Of the three daughters, Maria Vitória de Car- valho Melo and Sampaio, Ana Rita de Carvalho and Melo and Florência Joaquina de Melo and Sampaio, only the first married, at the end of the 18th century, a cousin, Ba- chelor Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, son of António de Melo and Sampaio and Caetana Bernarda Pereira Pinto, «noble and most distinguished people from the Province with the forum of Fidalgos», from Casa da Espinhosa, relatives of Carvalho and Melo de Donelo58. Lopo Vaz de Sampaio and Melo and Maria Vitória would have two children, António de Melo Vaz and Sampaio and D. Ludovina Augusta de Melo and Sampaio.

Manuel António de Carvalho e Melo administered Quinta da Costa de Baixo, as well as the vast family properties, until 1815, the year in which he died. Although the vast heritage of Casa de Gouvinhas was shared by his children, leaving his grandson the available third (consisting of four fifths of Quinta da Costa de Baixo, the most valuable and highest-yielding property), he must have left instructions to his son-in- -law , Lopo Vaz, and his grandson, António de Melo Vaz and Sampaio, to link him, in order to keep him indivisible and inalienable. It was in this spirit that, in 1820, Lopo Vaz and his wife applied to Mitra Arquiepiscopal de Braga for a private oratory at Casa de Gouvinhas, for the couple, their two children and Maria Vitória’s brother and two sisters59. Her daughter Ludovina married shortly afterwards with a cousin, presented in the deed of marriage as «Preclaríssimo Dom Miguel Vaz Guedes Brito and Ataíde Azevedo and Malafaia born in Vila Real, young gentleman in the House of His Majesty, donor of Honor of Barbosa, Administrator of Morgados do Arco, Guilhabreu and Mon- te Belo, Lord of Quinta de Parada and Patron in solidum of the churches of S. Salvador de Covas and S. Tiago dos Fornos ». In addition to the dowry she received from her fiance, Dona Ludovina was endowed by her parents with the legitimates that, due to the death of each one of them, were paid in advance 4 contos in currency, on account of these legitimate ones60.

58 Torre do Tombo National Archives. Desembargo do Paço - Bachelor’s Reading Processes, 1600-1833. Reading Process of Bachelor Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, 1799-1803. He will receive a charter from a noble forum on 19.04.1826. National Archive of Torre do Tombo. General Registration of Mercês - Mercês of D. João VI, Book 21, fl. 167. 59 Braga District Archive. Mitra Arquiepiscopal de Braga - Licenses for private oratories, 1734-1909. License for private oratory in favor of Lopo Vaz Sampaio, 20.12.1820. 60 Deed held on 10.29.1821. District Archive of Vila Real. Notary. 8th Vila Real Notary Office - Gradebook, 1821, fl. 80-82v.

27. Pormenor do portão da Quinta da Costa de Baixo, com a data de 1836. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

50 51 In 1825, at the request of King D. João VI for the institution of a “perpetual and inalienable morgado”, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo and his wife associated only his son António, in addition to his sister-in-law and sister, D. Florência Joaquina de Carvalho Melo and Sampaio, single and without descendants. Maria Vitória’s other sister, Ana Rita, had, however, passed away. As for the brother priest, we have no information, but it is likely that he too had died. What is stranger is the exclusion of the married daughter, we do not know whether it is by the will or the husband or by the will of the founders of the bond. To that morgue the couple linked “the third of his assets, the supplicant son the third that for this purpose his maternal grandfather Manuel António de Carvalho e Melo left him and the applicant D. Florência Joaquina all his assets, making one and the other the due separation for pious works and the necessary reserve to test for their deaths ». Even so, the assets destined for this bond were valued at 54,333 $ 335 reis, equivalent to an annual income of 2,715 $ 500 reis, much higher than what was current in the bonds of that time. In the Royal Resolution of 18 July 1825, which authorized the institution of this morgado, it is also referred “that the Appellants enjoy a nobility and nobility continued for more than two centuries, with the corresponding treatment»61. The documentation of the institution of this bond, transcribed in a subsequent judicial proceeding, allows us to perceive the patrimonial wealth of Casa de Gouvinhas, with dozens of properties, among which several farms, in which, due to its value and income, that of Costa de Baixo62. António de Melo Vaz and Sampaio, also a nobleman of Casa Real63, were appointed as the first administrator of the bond, although the wine lists continued in the name of his father, Lopo Vaz, until he died shortly afterwards. In the time when Lopo Vaz de Sampaio and Melo64 managed Quinta da Costa de Baixo, between 1815 and 1827, the list of boarding wines in the Quinta’s cellar indicates increasing production, reaching 120 barrels in 1827 (on

61 Torre do Tombo National Archives. General Registration of Mercês - Mercês of D. João VI, Book 20, fl. 230-230v: License for morgado in favor of Lopo Vaz Sampaio e Melo, his wife, D. Maria Vitória de Carvalho Melo and Sam- paio, her son, António de Melo Vaz and Sampaio, and her sister-in-law, D. Florência Joaquina de Carvalho Melo and Sampaio, September 6, 1825. 62 Vila Real District Archive. Judicial - Process of inventory of minors due to the death of Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo and D. Maria Vitória, 1871-1876. 63 License dated 10.06.1820. SANCHES DE BAENA, Augusto Romano - Aristocratic Dictionary, which contains all the permits of Fidalgos of Casa Real… from 1808 to September 1822. Lisbon: Tip. do Panorama, 1867, p. 13-14. 64 Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo passed away on 11.21.1827.

28. Armazém da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 29. Pormenor do portal do armazém da Quinta da Costa de Baixo, com a data de 1840. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 52 53 average, , in that period, in about 86 kites per year)65.

The farm administration passed from Lopo Vaz to his son, António de Melo Vaz and Sampaio, who made large investments and substantially increased the income of Casa de Gouvinhas until the middle of the 19th century. Between 1828 and 1832, the average annual wine production at Quinta da Costa de Baixo amounted to more than 110 barrels, reaching close to 150 barrels per year, from 1838 to 184066. By that time, the old wine installations proved to be small due to the huge increase in production, which led the nobleman to build the new and extensive warehouse (completed in 1840, as can be seen in the inscription on the lintel of the entrance door), which still stands out among the farmhouse houses today . Production would continue to increase throughout the 1840s, standing at 228.4 barrels per year and approaching 300 barrels at the end of that period67. On the Map of the Wine Country of Alto Douro, designed by Joseph James Forrester and engraved in 1843, Quinta da Costa de Baixo is highlighted, under the de- signation «Quinta do Ant.º de Mello». Also the writer Camilo Castelo Branco, whose fictional narrative is interwoven at every step with the reality of the time, refers to the nobleman António de Melo and his Gouvinhas farms, when tracing the route, in the early 1840s, by Veríssimo Borges Camel da Mesquita, by Alvações do Corgo, one of the characters in the novel A Brasileira de Prazins: «He returned to the Douro and sought the support of a powerful realist, António de Melo, from Gouvinhas, the father of Mr. Lopo Vaz, a great minister liberal full of embryos of things. The nobleman of Gouvi- nhas named him overseer of his farms. He was delighted; he did little; the nobleman admitted it to his intimate political lectures; but a nephew of Melo, a valiant navalist who called the Malagueta in Coimbra, won his hatred, out of jealousy about a looming weaver, a shaking girl with round hips, Libânia de Covas»68.

António de Melo remained celibate, living with his mother, D. Maria Vitória, who

65 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Books of Listings of Boarding Wines, 1815-1827. 66 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vines of the Alto Douro - Books of Listings of Embarking Wines, 1828-1840. 67 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro - Books of Listings of Embarque Wines, 1841-1850. 68 CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - A Brasileira de Prazins [1882]. In CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - Complete Works. Vol. VIII. Porto: Lello & Irmão, 1988, p. 760.

30. Pormenor do Mapa do País Vinhateiro do Alto Douro, de Joseph James Forrester, gravado em 1843. 31. Pormenor do mapa de Joseph James Forrester, Douro Português e País Adjacente, gravado em 1848.

54 55

died in 184769. But he maintained a long loving connection with a girl from a family of small farmers in Guiães, Bárbara Felícia do Amaral. In 1848, they had a son, named Lopo (the name of his grandfather) in the parish of Borbela, as the son of unknown parents70. Although he only legitimized this son at the time of his death, in January 1871, when he married Bárbara Felícia71, António de Melo educated the boy as heir to the Casa de Gouvinhas. He guaranteed his university studies in Coimbra and prepared him to become one of the most influential politicians of his time.

2.5. The delivery of Quinta da Foz Ceira to the Company

Throughout the first half of the 19th century, the wine prosperity of Quinta da Costa de Baixo contrasted with the state of decay of neighboring Quinta da Foz Ceira, largely due to the trajectories of the families owning these estates, both with old parchment scrolls, but with different attitudes towards the management of its vast land properties, at a key turning point in the political and social order.

In the case of the lords of Quinta da Foz Ceira, the second Gonçalo Cristóvão, the only son and heir of several morgadios, when he came of age and took over the management of his vast heritage, faced great difficulties, due to decades of abandoning the lands. , for the reasons already mentioned.

Between 1808 and 1811, he had little time to dedicate himself to the administration of these goods, given his military status in the context of war against the French invaders. In 1808, at the age of 29, he was Field Assistant in the city of Porto, marrying 69 D. Maria Vitória de Carvalho Melo e Sampaio died on 08.10.1847. 70 The record states that the boy, «son of unknown parents», was born on September 28, 1848 and was baptized that same day in the church of Borbela. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Borbela - Baptism registration book, 1834-1853, fl. 71-72v. However, an annotation on the margin takes us to another record of this baptism, released 14 years later, on September 24, 1862, by order of the Vicar General of the Vila Real District, due to a judicial justification required by Lopo Vaz de Sampaio himself and Melo. In this new record it is said that the same Lopo, “who today is called Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo”, was born on September 27, 1848 at António de Melo Vaz and Sampaio’s house in Gouvinhas, and was baptized the following day in Borbela, being “natural son” of Bárbara Felícia do Amaral, single, born in Guiães and resident in Gouvinhas, daughter of António de Amaral and Maria Morais, of Guiães. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Borbela - Baptism registration book, 1862-1869, fl. 10. 71 António de Melo Vaz e Sampaio married Bárbara Felícia do Amaral, in Gouvinhas, on 16.01.1871, in his home, “because of his dangerous state of health, he did not allow him to delay or attend the parish church, as was attested by his facultative », Having in that act legitimized his son Lopo. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Gouvinhas - Marriage registration book, 1871, fl. 2-2v.

Página anterior - 32. Mapa do País Vinhateiro do Alto Douro, de Joseph James Forrester, gravado em 1843. 33. Capa de brochura da primeira edição do livro A Brasileira de Prazins (1883), de Camilo Castelo Bran- 58co. Colecção particular de Rui Domingues. 59

August 12 with D. Teresa José do Carmo Freire de Andrade, 35, daughter of the 2nd Count of Bobadela, José António Freire de Andrade , and D. Antónia Xavier de Lencas- tre de Almeida and Bourbon, and paternal granddaughter of General Bernardim Freire de Andrade, commander of the Porto troops, in whose residence the marriage took place72. The couple lived in Casa do Bonjardim and would have six children, Gonçalo Cristóvão, Maria das Dores, José António, Teresa do Carmo, Francisca Paula and Duar- te Egas, with the firstborn and Teresa do Carmo deceased at a young age. José António, who would succeed his father, as a morgado, was born in 181173. At that time, Gonçalo Cristóvão was Colonel of the Royal Volunteers of the City of Porto.

As of 1814, the nobleman of Bonjardim was concerned with recovering the family patrimony, whose income would be far from covering the great expenses of the couple. To rebuild his Douro estates (Azinheira, Foz Ceira and Celeirós), which were completely ruined and almost without production, he negotiated a loan of 12 contos de réis with the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro. Given that the Company demanded the mortgage of the farms and since they are of a binding nature, and cannot be sold without royal authorization, the nobleman had to proceed with the bureaucratic procedures before the Court. After consultation with the Bureau of the Disembarkation of Paço on August 3, 1815, D. João VI would proceed favorably to dispatch the process by Resolution of December of that year, ratified by Royal Pro- vision of September 9 of the following year. However, the contract with the Company would only be signed two years later, on December 19, 1818, which suggests a long bureaucratic process. Under this contract, the Company lent to Gonçalo Cristóvão, with an interest of 3% per year, 12 contos, in 12 installments of a short story, to be delivered between the end of 1818 and 1820. It was expressly stated that this money only it could be used to improve farms, which were under the control of Company inspectors, responsible for reporting on the progress of investments. The farms were mortgaged to the Company, which, from the 1820 harvest, should receive half the amount of the wines produced there until the debt is fully paid74. From the correspondence exchan-

72 Porto District Archive. Parish. Santo Ildefonso - Marriage registration book, 1809-1813, fl. 63-63v. 73 José António was born on 8/12/18 and was baptized in the chapel of the Bonjardim house. Porto District Archive. Parish. Santo Ildefonso - Baptism registration book, 1809-1813, fl. 186-186v. 74 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from

Página anterior - 34. Pormenor do Livro de Arrolamentos de Vinhos de Embarque, 1848. museu do Douro. Arquivo da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro. 35. Sede da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro, na Rua das Flores, no Porto. 62Fotografia Guedes, c. 1910. Col. Arquivo Municipal do Porto. ged between Gonçalo Cristóvão and the Board of Directors of the Company, as well as the abundant reports sent by the inspectors on the application of the loan, it appears that in a short time, a gigantic job of deforestation, opening of gutters, dives and the planting of tens of thousands of strains, construction and reconstruction of terraced walls, as well as the rebuilding of mills, cellars and cardenhas. But, at the same time, it is clear that these works were far from guaranteeing the expected production, because they will have been poorly designed or poorly executed.

In the case of Quinta da Foz Ceira, a report written in August 1819 gives us an image of the abandonment in which the farm was, having just been deforested and little more: «I went to see the farm that Il.mo Sr Gonçalo Cristóvão Teixeira Coelho de Melo has been departing for the West with the River of Foz de Seiras [sic] in which I did not find any new plantation, and less new walls. The best of 25 years [sic] that this was not won, according to what I am told, and for that reason it is reduced to a lot. This year all the great firewood he had was cut down, and then in Maio he was given an embossed pit, because the time was inappropriate to be able to penetrate uncultivated land. They did some grafting, but this is of no benefit, both because of the little it pul- led, and because at the time it was made, they could not know the grape variety of the vines, and for this reason some cut better than the new graft. It needs to be planted all over the plant and that old vine that appears in the ditch to take advantage of it, put- ting it down, because it comes sooner and there is no need for grafting because you can supply this plant with paints. There is not a grape berry in the few vines that have so far resisted drowning in the bush. It is land that, after being moved and planted again, needs the usual pit of 800 to 1,000 men only. The farm has 3 hills and 2 valleys, which if it were all fertile land could give 300 to 400 kites, but the hills are of low production, as well as the valleys from the middle upwards, because it is inferior land; and what you have from the road on the same farm below is more fertile, and I was told that all your production had never reached 20 kites, and to put it in the state of approaching this old production, it takes a big planting expense and a good administration. Few new walls are needed and the old ones need to be backed up and others rolled to remove

Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Deed of loan to Gonçalo Cristóvão and mortgage on his farms, 12.19.1818. See also SOUSA, Fernando de (coordin.) - A Real Companhia Velha. General Agriculture Company of Alto Douro Vi- neyards (1756-2006). Porto: Center for Population, Economy and Society Studies, 2006, p. 354-355.

36. Provisão régia de D. João VI, autorizando Gonçalo Cristóvão a hipotecar as suas quintas do Douro à Companhia, 1816. Museu do Douro. Arquivo da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro — Documentos das quintas de Gonçalo Cristóvão. 64 65 the brush. There are a few poor houses where a caretaker lives there, and he earns his day wherever he asks. There are more other pardieiros joined and beaten and discovered, one of which has two small caterpillars and a single bundle, damaged by the storm, and one of them will make just over 3 kites and the other just over 4 said, sent by the Abbot of Porto Cathedral, as I was told, that in the ruined state in which they are, they show that they have not made wine in many years; and its small size does not inculcate great production from the farm; however the wine you give is expected to be of excellent quality. There is no water to drink and use the farm except Rio and Foz. I was told that in the past there was a weir from Rio da Foz, which entered the farm, but that maliciously started to ruin it and then, in the first flood of Rio, that is gone at all. The present yield that can be harvested from corn without water from the road below, as it is more fertile land, while if it is not put in the field, it is 12 to 15 bushels. There are also many olive trees, which are not very rusty, which may yield 25 to 30 almuds in a year, and 4 almuds in a year, as I am told »75. António Fernandes, the main overseer of the farm in 1820, will also recall later: “this farm was perfectly uncultivated and in the mountains, and which produced nothing, except for some olive olives that still exist, and which was barely used, due to the weeds under them»76.

Only in December 1819 would a contract be signed with the Galician contractor Celestino Rodrigues, from Lugo, assistant in Tanha, Abaças, for the planting of vines at Quinta da Foz Ceira, for 28 $ 500 réis per thousand strains, establishing the conditions for planting and the construction of wedges, many of them with pylons, that is, with vines planted in regular openings in the walls77.

Gonçalo Cristóvão continued to live in Porto. As was frequent at the time, he entrusted the direction of the restoration work on the farms to overseers and hou- sekeepers, only traveling to the Douro from years to years. In January 1820, he disco-

75 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Letter from Fernando José Correia Monteiro, from Lamego, to the Board of the Com- pany, 08.15.1819. 76 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. State and memorial of Gonçalo Cristóvão estates, c. 1860. 77 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Contract with the contractor Celestino Rodrigues, for the planting of vines at Quinta da Foz Ceira, 08.12.1819.

37. Informação sobre os trabalhos na Quinta da Foz Ceira, 26.02.1820. Museu do Douro. Arquivo da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro — Documentos das quintas de Gonçalo Cristóvão. 66 67 vered that the overseer of Quinta da Azinheira, Francisco Fortunato de Oliveira de Carvalho, had lost 4 contos de réis, which led him to devote more attention to the management of the farms78.

From January 1820, Quinta da Foz Ceira was filled with workers. But the working conditions were deplorable, with the carenhas almost uninhabitable, arranged in a hurry. In the words of the overseer António Fernandes: «At the beginning of the aforementioned plantation, the walls of old houses, which were perfectly demolished, were repaired and covered with wood and tile, so that the workers could sleep and put their tools in them»79. When consulting the weekly reports of the Company’s infor- mants, we noticed the fluctuation in the number of workers, either because they were displaced to Quinta da Azinheira, also under reconstruction80, or because they did not accept the terrible working conditions, with reference almost always to sick Galicians. . Perhaps for this reason, the proverbial docility of Galician workers was not always found here. Despite having several armed overseers, to guide the service and maintain the discipline of the various gangs, the farm was the scene of violent turmoil, as happened on the night of February 8, 1820, as can be read in the letter from the Company’s informant: «I leave the VSª to expose to Il.ma Junta that, as a person of my concept, I sent to see the farms of Il.mo Sr. Gonçalo Cristóvão, and informs me that Foz de Ceira has four good and intelligent overseers for the culture, and that they watch in a poor barracks of the farmhouses, rented with walls and wood and a new roof, and that the door is not yet dressed with planks and only crate. These justified the planting of the plant with two contractors; and because they took care of the adjustment, and the two contractors accepted everything, it seems that with the intention of later doing as they liked, they soon brought in tough and fearless workers; so that perhaps the good work 78 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Letter from Gonçalo Cristóvão to the Company’s Board, 01.1820. 79 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. State and memorial of Gonçalo Cristóvão estates, c. 1860. 80 In January 1820, Gonçalo Cristóvão justified the delay in planting in Foz Ceira with the conclusion of the work at Quinta da Azinheira: «Quinta da Azinheira is almost complete, which next week is complete with all the farming and planting that he could receive, which will exceed twelve thousand beds that he takes, he will only lack one or two thousand bacelo for his complete, is the reason why some people have been missing in the Quinta da Foz do Ceira plantation, which has already planted 12 to 15 thousand, and as soon as the Azinheira plantation and farming ends, everyone goes to Foz do Ceira, to fill the number of 80 men ». Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Letter from Gonçalo Cristóvão to the Company’s Board, 01.1820.

38. e 39. Casas da Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

68 69 of the overseers didn’t please him, that on the 8th of this month, a squad of the best of 30 men who worked at the end of the farm, at the foot of the Pontelo, after supper came all in chusma and they threw stones at the overseers’ quarters with stones, which some would weigh four rounds, and broke 300 tiles well, saying at the same time ‘Viva Ourense’. Two of the most skillful taskmasters, seeing themselves in this setting, before they went inside, left suddenly and as soon as they saw the first they shot him, of which he soon died, and appeared in the morning with two stones clutched in each of his hands; the other overseer threw another, who nailed him well with lead, but he could escape, and the one who fired the first shot tried to escape, and next to that Pontelo he was attacked by another Galician, and to get rid of him he was biting him the body as it could, and says it has 18 stabs, but they are not dangerous. Before this disorder 86 men were at work and now there are only 15 and three overseers, and the two foreman contractors remain on the farm, waiting for more people to work. The old walls or terraces that can suffer on top are being rebuilt by a bricklayer, and the bowl goes at a good height and width where it can be broken, and because the stone is very much the same men of work are settling it, remaining only one up to three ditches of bacelo between one and another terrace, to consume the stone, and the walls are full of bacelo»81.

It is worth comparing this information with that which, a few decades later, António Fernandes Abaças, from the Hermitage, who, in 1820, was the main overseer of Foz Ceira, even because it refers not to one but to ten or eleven killed in the riot of Galician workers: «This farm was uncultivated for many years, growing in it thick and overgrown until, when it was public and notorious that Gonçalo Cristóvão had taken out a large loan from the Company, he ordered it to be planted with seed, and that this the plantation had risen above 60 thousand, leaving only land to plant 8 to 10 thousand bacelo in it; a plantation that was interrupted for a period of 4 to 5 years from a large swarm that then occurred between the Galicians who did it and he, António Fernandes and four other individuals, who all had been sent there by the same Gonçalo Cristóvão, as overseers of that service, António Fernandes being primarily responsible for everything, the conflict of which resulted in 10 or 11 deaths

81 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Letter from Fernando José Correia Monteiro, from Lamego, to António Tomás de Almeida da Silva, February 13, 1820.

40. Informação sobre o tumulto dos galegos na Quinta da Foz Ceira, 13.02.1820. Museu do Douro. Arquivo da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro — Documentos das quintas de Gonçalo Cristóvão. 70 71 of those contractors»82.

In spite of all the work carried out on his Douro estates, the nobleman of Bon- jardim was unable to respect the terms of the 1818 contract, which implied that, from the 1820 harvest, he would deliver to the Company half of the annual sale price of the wines to amortize the debt. It only did so in 1823 and would later fail to fulfill this obligation until 1826. In January of that year, given that the debt, with the accumulation of interest, continued to increase, adding up to about 14 contos, the Board of the Com- pany proposed you to hand over Quinta da Foz Ceira to your administration, considering that it is not ‘possible to repay the debt by means of the consignment established, not least because the state of the said estates is the same or slightly different from that which motivated the loan for its culture, repairs and improvement»83. The nobleman, without the means to propose another alternative, ended up delivering Quinta da Foz Ceira, through a new contract formalized at the beginning of the following month84.

However, the income from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms was, in fact, very scarce to pay off the high debt incurred. Even with the replanting of the early 1820s, Quinta da Foz Ceira produced only 2 barrels in the 1826 harvest. And, between 1828 and 1830, it produced an average of about 5 barrels. In addition, this wine was probably sold ‘by the spout’, as, contrary to expectations, the mills had not been rebuilt and there were no containers to store the wine, which also justifies the omission of Quinta da Foz Ceira in Arrolamentos of Boarding Wines of the Company until 1830. Year after year, the production of some olive oil85, was registered, but without significance in the total yield of the farm86.

Therefore, the Company soon recognized that it would be totally impracticable

82 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. State and memorial of Gonçalo Cristóvão estates, c. 1860. 83 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Letter from the Company’s management to Gonçalo Cristóvão, 03.01.1826. 84 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Letter from Gonçalo Cristóvão to the Board of Directors of the Company, 26.01.1826; Deed of consignment and assignment of administration between Gonçalo Cristóvão and the Board of Directors of the General Company of Agriculture of Vinhos do Alto Douro, 06.02.1826. 85 In 1827, he produced 2.5 almudes and, the following year, 11 almudes. 86 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Accounts and documents related to Gonçalo Cristóvão’s debt.

41. Carta de Gonçalo Cristóvão ao representante da Companhia, aceitando ceder a administração da Quinta da Foz Ceira, 10.01.1826. Museu do Douro. Arquivo da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro — Documentos das quintas de Gonçalo Cristóvão. 72 73 to withdraw from Quinta da Foz Ceira, in the state it was in, sufficient income to amor- significant investments, with works on the houses and new vineyard plantations89. As tize the debt. As early as 1827, through his lawyer, he tried to negotiate with Gonçalo the overseer, António Fernandes, would later recall: «after the farm started to be ma- Cristóvão to resume the administration of Foz Ceira and pay off the debt, terminating naged by the Company, it was completely rebuilt [the previous constructions that had the previous year’s contract. Gonçalo Cristóvão, with no means to manage the farm, served as cardenhas] from the foundations, ordering it to be made into a townhouse, refused the proposal. The Company insisted: «You know very well that the last con- with room divisions, single storey houses, divided and used to sleep the workers, and tract was concluded in the greatest good faith, and having only the common interest of to collect animals, a kitchen also attached, two mills, which seemed to be one of 18 and both parties as its sole end, taking itself as a certain principle and cause of the contract the other of 10 kites, which are above the warehouse, which is under the same room. that the import of the annual production of Quinta da Foz Ceira, handed over to the House; and that he had heard that the woods that were consumed there were cut and administration of Il.ma Junta, with the necessary regular collection and some repairs, taken from the forests that said Gonçalo Cristóvão had in the parish of Abaças, and would not only pay for the manufacturing costs but also for the payment of interest, that he had given them free of charge. […] After the administration of the Company and little by little for the partial amortization of capital. That principle, however, is, […] she increased the culture, not only because she ordered the rest of the farm’s land and soon it was known to be, manifestly false, because the aforementioned farm is in to be planted, which would take 8 to 10 million bacelo, and make the competent gems such a state that its annual production, at most, will only be able to cover the expenses or walls, but because of that time onwards it has been regularly harvested, with good of ordinary farming and very few repairs with little cost; and if it were to be done again, digging and pruning, launching a large number of dives, increasing the grafting and as it absolutely needs to be done, it would be necessary to spend an immense leather redra, so that the improvement was great»90. that could only be restored with the very long course of years exceeding all calculation; There were then troubled times, with the violent clash between the defenders of and that it does not fit in the administration of Il.ma Junta, and neither she nor you a liberal political regime and the followers of the absolute Monarchy. Jealous of his old would be in such a expedient»87. Gonçalo Cristóvão presented the counter-proposal scrolls of nobility, Gonçalo Cristóvão ranked among the staunch absolutists. Earlier, in to also hand over his Quinta da Azinheira to the Company’s management, but, accor- early June 1823, he had stood out among the group of noblemen who had organized, ding to the Company, such “would be truly a simulacrum of medicine that would leave following Vila-Francada, the counter-revolution in Porto, through the control of the the inveterate evil without cure”, insisting on returning to the 1818 contract. However, military garrison and the Chamber, where, on the 4th , D. João VI was acclaimed as the evolution of the negotiations must have led to the solution proposed by Gonçalo absolute King91. That same day, Gonçalo Cristóvão, who had been “retired” from his Cristóvão (adding Quinta de Celeirós), and a new contract was signed in April 1829, post as Colonel of Cavalry in 182192, was appointed Commander of the Armed Force of according to which the Company was left with the administration of the Azinheira and Porto, setting up barracks at his Quinta do Bonjardim, from where he issued a Procla- Celeirós estates. , in addition to Quinta da Foz Ceira88. mation to the Porto and orders of the day93. He would come to stand out, also, in the In the following years, especially in 1830 and 1831, Quinta da Foz Ceira underwent period of Miguelist absolutism, from 1828, as brigadier of the army. That year, the po-

89 For example, in 1831, 15,500 grape plants were planted there. Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture 87 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Farm expense sheets. Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Letter from the Board of Directors of the Company to Gonçalo Cristóvão, 05.01.1828. 90 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from 88 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. State and memorial of Gonçalo Cristóvão estates, c. 1860. Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Correspondence between Gonçalo Cristóvão and the Board of Directors of the Com- 91 Douro Butterfly, 06.05.1823. panhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro, 1828; Deed of consignment and assignment of the administration between Gonçalo Cristóvão and the Board of Directors of the General Company of Agriculture of the 92 By Ordinance of 6.29.1821. Journal of the Regency, June 30, 1821. Vineyards of Alto Douro, April 30, 1829. 93 Douro Butterfly, 06.10.1823.

74 75 42. Construção das surribas. Fotografia da Casa Alvão. Col. Centro Português de Fotografia. 44. Folha de despesas com compra de bacelo para a plantação na Quinta da Foz Ceiro, início de 1831. 43. Plantação de videiras. Fotografia da Casa Alvão. Col. Centro Português de Fotografia. Museu do Douro. Arquivo da Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro — Documen- tos das quintas de Gonçalo Cristóvão. 76 77 litical-military successes were opposed by painful family events, with the death of two (1815-1871), daughter of António de Lima Teixeira de Noronha and D. Ana Emília de young children, Gonçalo Cristóvão, the oldest son, with 19 years old, who was an Infan- Alpoim and Meneses, from Cabeceiras de Basto100. Between 1831 and 1835, the couple try cadet, and Teresa do Carmo, with 15 years old94. In March 1829, D. Miguel granted had three children, Maria da Graça, Teresa and Ana Emília de Assunção101. However, Gonçalo Cristóvão, as well as all his children, “the distinguished mercy of being able to by that time, the disturbances of the Civil War should have occupied António Teixeira, use the gold medal with its real effigy”, given the “relevant services and more evidence who, in 1832, at the age of 20, served in the miguelist army, as Colonel of the Militia of a good strict fidelity»95. In July 1832, when D. Pedro entered Porto with his liberal Regiment of Bragança102. At the end of 1834 or the beginning of 1835, due to suspicions army, Gonçalo Cristóvão left Quinta do Bonjardim, fleeing with his family to his home of the woman’s infidelity, the couple ended up separating, with José living at Quinta in Rua das Flores, in Vila Real. For this reason, during the Siege of Porto, Quinta do de Bouças, in Cabeceiras de Basto, and D. Maria do Carmo at Quinta de S. Pedro de I Bonjardim was kidnapped, “due to the flight of the petitioner and being known to be did, in Mondim, until 1836. The de facto separation evolved into a separation of law in the intruder Government of the usurpation»96. 1838, claiming in the records that “the genius of discord had flown around them and exposed it in circumstances of being dangerous to one, against their mutual habitation The nobleman died at his home on Rua das Flores, in Vila Real, in November until one and the other are sure of the truth or falsity of the reasons that gave rise to 1832, at the age of 5397, leaving his widow, D. Teresa José do Carmo Freire de Andrade, this unexpected disintelligence, aggravated, to one and the other without a doubt, by and their four young children, Maria das Dores, José António, Francisca de Paula and people interested in it for whose reason postponed to passion, and listening only to Duarte Egas Moniz98, in a precarious situation. The eldest son, José António Teixeira the dictates of prudence there are three to four years live separated in fact but not in Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mesquita, became head of the couple, in charge of organi- law, considering however that the reasons for this separation are supposed to be false, zing the inventory of minors. The inventory and sharing process would drag on until that if they were true they were legal basis, however while this uncertainty exists their 1845, revealing many unpaid debts, which exceeded the value of movable property and mutual cohabitation is perhaps still dangerous to the life of one and the other, and overdue forums. Some properties went to the square. The entire inheritance would be considering that they cannot live in this de facto separation, but that they must legally awarded to the head of the couple, who was in charge of paying the debts99. legalize it for the purpose of which they have tried to resort to the judicial power well Along with the problems related to paternal inheritance, the young José António against their will, because they know that questions of this nature are unseemly among faced the degradation of his marital relationship. He had married at the age of 17, by low-income people and more among nobles in their category»103. The couple would proxy, with a 13-year-old noble girl, D. Maria do Carmo de Lima Noronha and Alpoim never reconcile104. 100 The wedding took place in Atei, Mondim de Basto, on 01.01.1829. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Atei - 94 Son Gonçalo Cristóvão passed away on September 4, 1828 and daughter Teresa do Carmo on October 27, 1828. Marriage registration book, 1808-1838, fl. 57v-58v. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. S. Pedro - Death registration book, 1820-1836, fl. 102v and 104v-105. 101 Maria da Graça was born in 1831; Teresa was born in the parish of S. Pedro, in Vila Real, on 17.08.1832; and Ana Emília de Assunção was born in Atei, Mondim de Basto, on March 20, 1835, already after her parents’ separation, 95 Gazeta de Lisboa, 14.05.1829. having died, with less than 2 months, on May 12, 1835. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. S. Pedro - Baptism 96 In 1834, after the liberal victory, there was an order to raise this kidnapping, at the request of Gonçalo Cristóvão’s registration book, 1831-1836, fl. 52; Atei - Baptism registration book, 1806-1838, fl. 232; Atei - Death Record Book, widow, but the property was “seized”, as the heirs “did not try to pay or raise said kidnapping anymore” . District 1808-1838, fl. 65. Archive of Vila Real. Judicial - Inventory of minors due to the death of Gonçalo Cristóvão Teixeira Coelho de 102 He was appointed in this post by Decree of 13.06.1832, having previously been Cadet of the Cavalry Regiment Melo Pinto da Mesquita, 10.12.1832. of Chaves. Gazeta de Lisboa, 18.06.1832. 97 He died on 30.11.1832, being buried in his chapel of S. Brás. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. S. Pedro - Death 103 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from registration book, 1820-1836, fl. 156v. Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Friendly separation deed between D. Maria do Carmo de Lima Noronha and Alpoim 98 Maria das Dores was 22 years old, José António 21, Francisca de Paula 19 and Duarte Egas Moniz 16. and José António Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mesquita, 23.04.1838. 99 Vila Real District Archive. Judicial - Inventory of minors due to the death of Gonçalo Cristóvão Teixeira Coelho 104 In his will, dated March 12, 1868, António José wrote: «I declare that I have never again had relations with my de Melo Pinto da Mesquita, 10.12.1832.

78 79 It was in this context of family crisis that José António Teixeira Coelho had to face the renewal of the contracts that had been made by his father regarding the administration of the Douro estates to pay off the debt to the Companhia Geral de Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro. At the end of 1834, the debt to the Company was already 23,448 $ 587 reis. Without financial availability to propose another alternative, the heirs of Gonçalo Cristóvão submitted to the impositions of the Company, signing a new deed in July 1835, in which they accepted not only the conditions of the 1829 contract but the increase of the annual interest to 5%105. It was a Leon contract, since the Company arbitrarily established the values of the revenues and expenses of the estates, namely fixing prices below the current market value for the respective wines, which resulted in the growing increase of debt.

Shortly afterwards, in 1840, José António Teixeira Coelho still tried to reverse the situation, bringing a legal action to annul the 1835 contract, alleging, above all, pro- cedural irregularities. However, this action would be dismissed, after dragging through the courts for a quarter of a century106, while the Company continued to manage the farms.

wife, nor to join for the moment with her, because I was scandalously dawn since the moment I left his mother’s house in 1836 ». Municipal Archive of Porto. Administration of the Western District of Porto - Testament with which José António Teixeira Coelho Pinto da Mesquita passed away, 08/31/1888. We do not know whether D. Maria do Carmo would soon have gone to live with Francisco Manuel da Costa, future viscount of Montariol. From this relationship, in 1844, in Braga, he would have a natural son, Manuel Maria da Costa Alpoim, future viscount of Negrelos. Cf. ZUQUETE, Afonso Eduardo Martins - Nobility of Portugal and Brazil. Vol. III. Lisbon: Editorial Encyclopedia, 1961. Contrary to what is read in Zuquete, D. Maria do Carmo was not then a widow, but, as we have seen, separated. 105 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Deed of rectification of obligation of money, mortgage, consignment and more conditions that make the widow and children of Gonçalo Cristóvão with the administrators of Companhia dos Vinhos do Porto, 07.09.1835. 106 The last judgment related to this action is dated 08.30.1865. Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agricul- ture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Consultations and clarifications.

Página seguinte - 45. Surriba de encosta para plantação de vinha no Douro. Fotografia da Casa Alvão, c. 1940. Col. Centro Português de Fotografia.

80 81

3. Diseases of the vine: crisis and reconstruction of the Douro In the second half of the 1800s, Douro viticulture went through one of the most tragic periods in its history. Diseases of the vine forced not only new farming practices, with the introduction of phytosanitary treatments, but to replant the entire regional vineyard with American rootstocks. The costs were very high, since the new plantations required deeper surribas, wider levels and higher and more resistant schist walls, replacing the old pre-phyloxeric terraces, with low and irregular walls, following the design of the level curves, with narrow levels, sometimes with a single row of vines, without regular wrapping, using the old practices of raising or packing each vine with wooden tutors. All of this changed the landscape of the vineyards. On the other hand, the mandatory grafting of regional varieties on American “horses” has resulted in a total renewal of the genetic heritage of Douro viticulture.

At the same time, there were radical changes in the institutional organization, with the extinction of the majestic powers of the old Company, which no longer has control over the production and trade of Douro wines since 1852, foreshadowing the era of commercial freedom for all Douro wines, including those outside the old demarcation, which was abolished, between 1865 and 1907. However, the extinction of ties, by decree of 1863, allowed the division and alienation of the assets of the mortgages.

In the last quarter of the century, coinciding with a period of increased competition and falsification of Port wines in the international market, the best Douro wines, although rare, would suffer a sharp drop in prices and difficulties in selling. After the drama of the wine crisis, whose recovery had required large investments from the owners who managed to resist, the commercial crisis worsened the situation of regional impoverishment, abandonment or transfer of properties, as well as misery and hunger

46. Rebento de videria. Fotografia de Rui Costa. Col. Bulas.

85 among rural wage earners, reflecting soon, in a growing migratory flow of people from Douro villages to coastal cities or to Brazil. Here and there, there were owners who tried to survive, without much success, reconverting the vineyards into cattle or bread lands, or betting on other cultures, such as olive groves or almond trees.

The end of Pombaline legislation allowed the vineyard to extend across the Douro Superior to the border. The construction of the Douro railway line, which reached Régua in 1879, Pinhão the following year and Barca de Alva in 1887, not only su- pported this expansion of the regional space but also strengthened the connection to Porto and Gaia, facilitating the transport of vines, phytosanitary products, fertilizers, workers and wines.

Painfully, the Douro reinvented itself as a wine region. When, in 1907, it met new regulatory legislation, Douro’s vitiviniculture was already substantially different from that which had been perfected over the previous centuries, with new practices of surriba and planting, vineyard farming and winemaking. On the other hand, many lands had changed hands, emerging a new class of owners, very differentiated, with the capacity to invest in the recovery and modernization of vineyard farms. Some farms were bought off the beaten track by wealthy local farmers, others by traders and capi- talists, mostly linked to the Port wine trade, including English families and companies.

3.1. The powdery crisis

From 1852 onwards, the spread of powdery mildew in Douro vineyards, a grape- vine disease previously unknown in the region, substantially reduced wine production.

At Quinta da Foz Ceira, where the 1851 vintage had reached 19 barrels of wine, the records of the following harvests show a progressive drop in production. In 1855, the harvest yielded just 5 kites. And in 1856, only 16 almuds were collected107. As a later memo recalled, “in the years of the oidium, when almost nothing was spewed, it produced, producing the contiguous vineyards of 300 barrels only 27»108. In other words, 107 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Accounts of Azinheira, Foz Ceira and Celeirós, 1835-1875. 108 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from

47. Comboio a vapor junto à Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

86 87 the evil was general, also affecting the neighboring vineyards of Quinta da Costa, by António Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, with a drop in production of more than 90%. Soon, the most acute phase of the powdery mildew crisis would be overcome, with the spread of sulfur flower treatments.

In Foz Ceira, the first treatments against powdery mildew will have started in 1857, as suggested by the references in the farm accounts for the purchase of sulfur and four sprayers. Since then, production would gradually rise again, albeit with large annual fluctuations. From 3 kites in that year, he would go to 11 kites in 1858. But he would not come close to the 20 kites that were collected before the onset of the disease. Between 1859 and 1873, the annual average barely exceeded 8 barrels of wine109. And then, as we will see, it would go down even further, with the phylloxera attack.

Other agricultural products, such as olive oil, potatoes, cereals, vegetables and fruits, were generally intended for consumption by farm workers. Only exceptionally will there have been surpluses to commercialize, as happened in 1858, when sales of rye and potatoes were recorded, or in 1866, 1871 and 1873, of some olive oil products110.

At that time, the farm remained under the management of the Company, but the owner, José António Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mesquita, had the hope of being able to rescue it, paying the debt contracted by his father. In the second and last testament he wrote in 1868 at his farm in Atei, in Mondim de Basto, where he lived then, he left all his long-term assets and the third of his free assets to his daughter Maria da Graça Teixeira Coelho, married to José Xavier Teixeira de Barros, residing in Vila Real, bequeathing to his other daughter, Teresa Freire de Andrade Teixeira Coelho, married to Inácio Xavier Teixeira de Barros, residing in Celorico de Basto, his «Quinta da Foz Ceira, as soon as he is free of the burden you have, what should happen for my death»111. However, this design was not verified, and the farm remained in the hands

Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Consultations and clarifications. Document of c. 1890. 109 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Accounts for Azinheira, Foz Ceira and Celeirós, 1835-1877. 110 Respectively, 34, 15.5 and 17.5 aludes. Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Accounts of Azinheira, Foz Ceira and Celeirós, 1835-1875. 111 Municipal Archive of Porto. Administration of the Western Quarter of Porto - Testament with which José Antó- nio Teixeira Coelho Pinto da Mesquita passed away on 8/31/1888, held on 12/12/1868.

48. Despesas das quintas da Azinheira, Foz Ceira e Celeirós, 1857. Museu do Douro. Arquivo da Com- panhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro — Documentos das quintas de Gonçalo Cris- tóvão. 88 89 of the Company, even after the nobleman’s death. The debt, with the accumulation of interest, had increased continuously, totaling more than 85 contos in the 1870s, and José António Teixeira Coelho did not have the means to redeem it. According to the novelist Camilo Castelo Branco, who knew the nobleman well, since his youth wande- rings around Vila Real, José António found himself, at the end of his life, in a critical situation, close to misery. Probably exaggerated by literary freedom, and with some genealogical inaccuracies, the Camillian narrative, dating from 1874, testifies, at least, to the difficulties that the descendant of Gonçalo Cristóvão was going through: «A drama called Egas Moniz is represented in Porto. […] / When the drama first appeared on the posters, a sixty-year-old man, dressed in black, frock coat, shaved collar velvet, cut- -out and muddy pants around his old-age blue boots, he stopped at the corner of Rua Formosa, reading the poster attached to the corner of the Igreja das Almas church. / I recognized him from a distance, approached him, and stopped, behind him, in front of the poster, meditating. / And this meditated: / Egas Moniz fathered Lourenço Viegas, the breadwinner; […] / And so they started generating each other with a constancy worthy of our admiration, until a lady from the house of Coelhos, lords of Vieira and Felgueiras, married in the house of the lords of Teixeira and Sergude, and from this consortium if: / Gonçalo Pinto Coelho, who generated: / Martim Teixeira Coelho, who generated: / Bernardo José Teixeira Coelho, who generated: / Gonçalo Cristóvão Teixei- ra Coelho de Melo Pinto de Mesquita, lord of Teixeira, Sergude and Bom Jardim, father that poorly dressed man who read the drama poster Egas Moniz, on the corner of Rua Formosa. / I went over to him, put my hand on his shoulder, and said: / - My friend is rejoicing to read in large letters the eighteenth grandfather’s uncle Egas Moniz ... / - No, sir - he replied smiling - I was thinking about something that does not delight me at all ... / - I know - I helped with my notorious cleverness - you were meditating that there are no more Portuguese who, like yours grandfather, go with a rope around his neck to give satisfaction to the word that has not been fulfilled. / - No sir; I was thinking of something else ... / - I know ... I was thinking of the dim light of this heroic strain of Viegas, of Rabbits, of ... / - No, sir; I thought of going to see the Baquet theater to represent the feat of this illustrious grandfather of mine; but I see here written that a gallery space costs two hundred réis; and I, the eighteenth grandson of Egas Moniz, if

49. Capa de brochura do primeiro número de Noites de Insónia (1874), de Camilo Castelo Branco. Colecção particular de Rui Domingues.

90 91 I had two pennies, I would use them for the dinner of my children, who are fasting»112.

3.2. The «new disease» of vineyards

In the sixties of the 19th century, the Douro vineyards, still poorly recovered from the mildew invasion, experienced a “new disease”, much more serious than the previous one, caused by a tiny insect, the phylloxera, which fed on the sap of the roots of the vines. In a short time, the plants dried up, transforming the vines into sterile “mortories”. At first, the cause of the death of the vines was not known, the advance of the insect being quite slow, confining its devastating action to the initial focus, precisely in Gouvinhas, from where it would have spread to the neighboring parish of Covas. Only in the early 1870s did alarming news start to appear in the newspapers of Porto and in the specialized press of this “new disease” that devastated the vineyards of the South of France and the Douro.

Fontes Pereira de Melo’s government took immediate action. As early as May 1872, Rodrigo de Morais Soares, Director-General for Trade and Industry, sent the Ci- vil Governor of Vila Real a “Question about the new disease in the Douro vineyards”, asking for detailed information on the situation. In this letter, there was a farm that belonged to António de Melo Vaz de Sampaio, from where, supposedly, the phylloxera had radiated: from António de Melo, from Gouvinhas, the disease caused by the insect called philoxera vastatrix, determines s. ex the minister, who v. ex. urgently employs all the means that your recognized intelligence and zeal for public service suggest to you to obtain the clarifications contained in the interrogation together»113. Three weeks later «confirmed, by communication from the civil governor of Vila Real, the regre- ttable news about the manifestation, in some Douro vineyards, of the new disease, caused by the disastrous insect called philoxera vastatrix», the government appointed a commission chaired by Rodrigo de Morais Soares, Director-General for Trade and Industry, and integrated by Viscount of Vila Maior, João Inácio Ferreira Lapa, Silvestre Bernardo Lima and António Augusto de Aguiar, to propose the measures they conside- 112 CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - Nights of Insomnia, offered to those who cannot sleep [1874]. In CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - Complete Works. Vol. XIV. Porto: Lello & Irmão, 1991, p. 689-690. 113 Official letter of May 14, 1872, published in O Arquivo Rural, 1872, p. 96.

50. e 51. Formas da philoxera vastatrix e raízes de videira atacadas pelo insecto. Litografias de Emílio Biel publicadas pelo Visconde de Vilarinho de S. Romão, Flagelos da Videira, 1891, p. 122 e 126.

92 93 red most appropriate to combat phylloxera114. This Central Commission, based in Lis- bon, created two delegations, one in Coimbra, headed by the Viscount of Vila Maior, and another in Porto, consisting of José Duarte de Oliveira Júnior, António Batalha Reis and Jaime Batalha Reis. The latter, in charge of studying the new disease of the vineyards, traveled to the Douro, visiting seventy properties in four counties (Sabrosa, Santa Marta de Penaguião, Peso da Régua and S. João da Pesqueira), discovering in all foci of phyloxeric infestation . In its report, the Commission recalled the presence of the insect in the Douro in the spring of 1863, in the vineyards of Quinta dos Montes or Azinheira, in Gouvinhas, by António de Melo Vaz de Sampaio115, the owner of Quinta da Costa de Baixo. In this farm, where 60 to 70 barrels of wine were harvested before phylloxera, production had dropped to 55 barrels in 1865, about 19 in 1869, 8 in 1870 and 1 in 1872116. At the origin of this initial focus, the first to be detected in Portugal and one of the first in Europe, there would be some American vines imported by the owner of Quinta dos Montes in 1862. Soon that year, as informed in 1873, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, son and heir of António de Melo, would have dried 50 strains due to phylloxera: «The phyloxeric invasion in Portugal dates back to 1862, in a vineyard in the parish of Gouvinhas, municipality of Sabrosa, district of Vila Real. This vineyard belonged to the late councilor Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, who, in a letter of 20 January 1873, participated in the Gironda commission which in 1862 had dried up on that property some 50 strains, and later all others that had replaced. […] At first, the invasion in Portugal went slowly and without paying much attention to it. In 1869, part of the first Gouvinhas vineyard was destroyed and the evil was already plowing through the neighboring properties, filling their owners with fright»117. In this case, from Gouvinhas, the Douro would have been the first wine-growing region in Europe to be invaded by

114 Ordinance of June 8, 1872, published in O Arquivo Rural, 1872, p. 96. 115 OLIVEIRA JÚNIOR, José Duarte de; REIS, António Batalha; REIS, Jaime Batalha - The new disease of vineyards in the Douro. Report presented to the Central Commission by the Delegation in charge of studying the new vine disease in the Douro. [October 1872]. Lisbon: Imprensa Nacional, 1873, p. 15-16. 116 OLIVEIRA JÚNIOR, José Duarte de - New scourge of vineyards. Porto: Jornal de Horticultura Prática, 1872, p. 7; MELO, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e - Notes on the new disease of the vineyards. Lisbon: Imprensa Nacional, 1873, p. 8. 117 BARROS, Alfredo de Vilanova de Vasconcelos Correia de - «Reconstitution of the European vine by grafting on American strains». Bulletin of the Directorate-General for Agriculture, No. 12. Lisbon: Imprensa Nacional, 1894, p. 938.

52. Mapa da progressão da filoxera no Douro até 1878.Publicado por Rodrigo de Morais Soares, em Mémoire sur les Vins du Portugal, 1878. 53. Mapa da progressão da filoxera no Douro até 1878.Publicado por Rodrigo de Morais Soares, em 94Mémoire sur les Vins du Portugal, 1878. 95 the new vine disease118. Despite the destruction of a large part of the vineyard at his Quinta dos Montes, António de Melo Vaz de Sampaio remained, at that time, as one of the richest farmers and one of the largest contributors in the entire municipality of Sabrosa119, certainly not yet affected by the phylloxera the other extensive properties it owned in Gouvinhas, starting with Quinta da Costa de Baixo.

We cannot specify the moment when the phylloxera will have started its devastating invasion in the vineyards of Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira. In 1873, Quinta da Foz Ceira, managed by the Company, also produced 10 barrels of wine. But, in the following year, the harvest dropped to 5 barrels and, in 1877, to 2.5 barrels, this drop in production was certainly due to the devastating action of phylloxera. In addition, in that year 1877, part of the farm would be expropriated for the construction of the Douro railway line120. In 1880, practically all the vineyards would already be reduced to mortories, as can be read in a document written around 1890: «ten years ago I had already produced so little because of the phylloxera that I was no longer able to pay the caretaker, producing last year only 3 almudes […]. Chocks have always been raised, and if they are not now, it is because the vine is devastated and dried by phylloxera, and that is how all vineyard owners in this state do so»121. In Gouvinhas, the calamity was general, with all the vines decimated by the phylloxera. In the 1892 vintage, according to the viscount of Vilarinho de S. Romão, the production of the entire parish totaled only about 20 kites122.

The recovery of the Douro vineyards, with the planting of American rootstocks and the grafting of regional grape varieties, would only expand at that time, reaching, in the 1890s, an extraordinary dimension123. Until then, many winegrowers preferred

118 MARTINS, Conceição Andrade - «Phylloxera in national viticulture». Social Analysis, vol. XXVI (112-113), 1991 (3-4), p. 656. 119 Vila Real District Archive. Civil Government - Electoral registration of the municipality of Sabrosa, 1869. 120 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Accounts of Azinheira, Foz Ceira and Celeirós, 1835-1875. 121 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Consultations and clarifications. Opinion, c. 1890. 122 VILARINHO DE S. ROMÃO, Visconde de - Viticulture and viniculture. Trás-os-Montes - Alto Douro Central. Lisbon: Imprensa Nacional, 1896, p. 547. 123 The wine-growing area of the Douro, which, before the phyloxeric invasion, was 43 thousand hectares, was

54. Enxertia de videira no Douro. Fotografia da Casa Alvão, c. 1940. Col. Centro Português de Fotogra- fia.

96 to treat phylloxerated vines with the injection of carbon sulfide, which only managed not know how to read or write, Bárbara Felícia directed the Delegate of the Royal Pro- to delay the progression of the insect. In this previous phase, the study and work car- secutor and Curator of the Orphans at the Judgment of Sabrosa a report on the death ried out by some pioneers, defenders of replanting with American vines, was crucial, of husband, referring to the previous facts: «D. Bárbara Felícia de Sampaio e Melo, wi- among which Joaquim Pinheiro de Azevedo Leite Pereira, from Provesende, who, in dow of this place in Gouvinhas, participates in the VSª who, having died on the 18th of 1876, planted the first American strains at his Quinta de Vale de Figueira, in Covas do January this year, her husband António de Melo Vaz de Sampaio from this same place, Douro, having improvised a school to teach the art of grafting. without any testamentary disposition, leaving only one son the biggest, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, was the petitioner for the couple. However, as Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, the supplicant’s father-in-law, died on November 21, 1827, his wife, D. Maria 3.3. Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo: the natural minister of Gouvinhas, owner of Vitória, remained in possession of the couple’s assets, without calling the interested Costa de Baixo parties to share, and finally if this is on August 10, 1847, the supplicant’s husband has given himself over to the entire couple, holding him undivided until his recent death, However, in January 1871, António de Melo Vaz de Sampaio, aged 73, had died124 . although only half of the free goods left by his parents belong to him, the other half Her heirs, the widow, D. Bárbara Felícia do Amaral, with whom she married two days belonging to her sister, D. Maria Ludovina Vaz Guedes de Melo and Sampaio, today before, and her son, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio and Melo, had to face a long legal process represented by her children and grandchildren of older and younger age, although it with the descendants of Ludovina Augusta de Melo and Sampaio, sister of António de is certain that no one ever asked her husband for the pleading sharing of the couple, Melo, since he did not carry out an inventory and shares at the time of the death of which he would have given in this case; the supplicant not knowing if there are any his parents, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo (died in 1827) and Maria Vitória de Carvalho creditors to this inheritance. What I participate in for your legal purposes»125. Melo e Sampaio (died in 1847). António de Melo’s procedure would have its reasons. On the one hand, most of the properties were then subject to the morgadio regime, It does not matter here to penetrate this long judicial process of sharing between which was extinguished only in 1863. But there were still other reasons, since the sister the two branches of the Sampaio and Melo family, but only to understand what ha- received, in advance, by dowry, in 1821, 4 contos de réis, due to the legitimacy of the pa- ppened to Quinta da Costa de Baixo and its owners. Despite being named head of a rents, and having, however, died in 1837, probably not having relations between their couple, D. Bárbara Felícia passed solicitations to lawyers to deal with the process of descendants and the family of Gouvinhas. The realization of the inventory and sharing sharing between her son and her husband’s relatives. Shortly thereafter, in July 1871, of the couple’s vast properties with these relatives would certainly be among António she renounced all rights over the properties of Casa de Gouvinhas, which she passed on de Melo’s concerns, as well as the legitimation of his son Lopo, in order to guarantee to her son Lopo (“whose possession and de facto domain he has been in since the dea- his rights to his paternal inheritance, which it would have led to marry, at the time of th of the grantors’ husband and father) »), Staying only with the ones he already had 126 death, with the boy’s mother, Bárbara Felícia do Amaral. A few days later, on January before the wedding . In the deed of assignment, some of the assets belonging to the 27, certainly following instructions from the late husband and son Lopo, since she did previous morgado bond were mentioned, namely Quinta do Espinhal, in Donelo, the reduced in 1888 to about one third. PEREIRA, Miriam Halpern - Free Exchange and Economic Development. Portugal in the second half of the 19th century. Lisbon: Edições Cosmos, 1971, p. 178. According to counselor 125 Vila Real District Archive. Judicial - Mandatory inventory process. Inventories: Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, Teixeira de Sousa, in the districts of Guarda Viseu, Vila Real and Bragança, more than 20 thousand hectares of Maria Vitória; Inventor: Bárbara Felícia de Sampaio e Melo, 1871-1876. vineyards were planted between 1893 and 1902, most of them in the Douro region integrated in these districts. 126 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 1st Notary Office of Sabrosa - Gradebook, 1871-1872. Assignment and re- Cf. SOUSA, António Teixeira de - The Question of the Douro. Porto: Guedes Company, 1907, p. 15-16. signation deed made by D. Bárbara Felícia de Sampaio e Melo, widow, to her son Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, 124 He died in Gouvinhas, on 18.01.1871. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Gouvinhas - Death registration book, 07.17.1871, fl. 44v-46; Deed of friendly extrajudicial sharing between D. Bárbara Felícia de Sampaio e Melo and 1871, fl. 1v. her son Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, 07.15.1871, fl. 46v-47.

98 99 Pousadouro vineyard, Quinta da Costa de Baixo, «which consists of vineyards, vegetable gardens, woods, dwelling house, mills and two warehouses and two water mines ”, Quinta da Costa de Cima, Bacelo do José António, Vinha das Aguaneiras, Vinha Plana, Vinha Velha do Chão do Abade and another nearby vineyard, Bacelo do Jornal, Vinha do Serro da Igreja, Vinha do Seixo and Bacelo do Sampaio de Além, Vinha do Sampaio de Cá, Vinha da Escadavada and a thorn orchard at the Figueiredo site, in Gouvinhas127.

We do not know if the relationship with her son would have deteriorated to the point that Bárbara Felícia left the house of Gouvinhas where she had lived for decades, but the truth is that she then left, in the company of her niece Maria da Conceição Mo- reira do Amaral128, to her home in Guiães, where she would die on June 18, 1879. In her last years, Bárbara Felícia lived in the company of this niece and goddaughter Bárbara, the niece’s natural daughter, to whom she bequeathed, by testament129, the available third, leaving son Lopo as heir to the remaining assets130. As was the case with all Dou- ro farmers, affected by the sharp reduction in crop yields, Lopo Vaz’s mother also had to resort to mortgage credit, “needing the money to earn money and increase her real estate”. In November 1878, he incurred a debt of 140 $ 000 reis to the Brotherhood of Souls of Guiães with interest of 5% per year131.

At that time, his son, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, about 30 years old, lived in Lisbon, where he was a deputy, standing out as one of the most influential politicians in the Regenerating Party. It is worth recalling some steps of his brilliant career. In 1864, at the age of 16, he entered the law course at the University of Coimbra, distin-

127 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 1st Notary Office of Sabrosa - Gradebook, 1871-1872. Assignment and resignation deed made by D. Bárbara Felícia de Sampaio e Melo, widow, to her son Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, 07.17.1871, fl. 44v-46. 128 On July 21, 1872, her niece Maria da Conceição would have a natural daughter, whom she baptized with the name Bárbara, whose godmother was D. Bárbara Felícia. District Archive of Vila Real. Parish. Guiães - Baptism registration book, 1872, fl. 8v-9. 129 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 1st Notary Office of Vila Real - Gradebook, 1878-1879. Testament of D. Bár- bara Felícia de Sampaio e Melo, 30.11.1878, fl. 80v-81v. 130 Movable assets, including a barrel of 11 kites, were valued at 33 $ 190 reis; the house and land at 1,935 $ 000 réis. District Archive of Vila Real. Judicial - Mandatory inventory process. Inventory: Bárbara Felícia de Sampaio e Melo; Inventor: Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, 1879. 131 Vila Real District Archive. Notary. 1st Notary Office of Vila Real - Gradebook, 1878-1879. Debt deed by D. Bárba- ra Felícia de Sampaio e Melo to the Brotherhood of Souls of Guiães, 11/30/1878, fl. 81v-82v.

55. Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo. Gravura publicada publicada na revista O Ocidente, 01.04.1892.

100 101 guishing himself among the best students132. At the end of his course, in the academic year 1869-1870, in the last years of his father’s life, he had to abandon his studies temporarily, moving from Coimbra to Porto, to deal with his father’s affairs. According to Alberto Pimentel, the consignee in charge of selling António de Melo’s wines in Porto “had committed suicide on the Douro River after having abused the credits he was provided with” and Lopo Vaz had to follow the lengthy liquidation process133. In a troubled period of Portuguese political life, the young Sampaio e Melo got involved in the elec- tion campaign that year, running on the lists of the Reformist Party, through the Alijó circle. With the support of the Bishop of Viseu (António Alves Martins, born in Alijó), leader of that party, he would be elected, at the age of 22, to the Chamber of Deputies in the October 1870 elections. Despite being interrupted for family reasons, namely the death of his father in January 1871 and issues related to inheritance, the young Lopo Vaz’s parliamentary work revealed his political abilities. After this legislature ended in June 1871, he returned to his home in Gouvinhas, worrying about the management of the vast paternal inheritance. At that time, he started his studies on phylloxera and the means of combating it. In 1873, he published a pamphlet, which he distributed free of charge to farmers in the Douro region134.

He would only return to parliament in January 1877, elected again by Alijó, by the Regenerating Party. In September 1878, he would be appointed Director-General of Public Instruction, a position he held for only about two months, since in November he would be appointed Director-General of Customs and Direct Contributions. In the following elections, in 1879, he obtained an overwhelming victory for Sabrosa, where he was born and where he remained as a resident and voter in Gouvinhas135. He would be elected again by that circle in the final elections of that year.

After his mother’s death, Lopo Vaz would increasingly focus his life on the capital and political activity. Shortly after, in July 1880, he married the young Lisboner Virgínia de Chaves Lages, 20 years old, daughter of Councilor José António Gomes La- 132 PIMENTEL, Alberto - Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo: biographical sketch. Lisbon: Adolfo, Modesto & C.ª, 1891, p. 9. 133 Idem, ibidem, p. 11. 134 MELO, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e - Notes on the new vine disease. Lisbon: Imprensa Nacional, 1873. 135 Vila Real District Archive. Civil Government - Electoral registration of the municipality of Sabrosa, 1879.

56. Opúsculo Apontamentos sobre a nova moléstia das vinhas, publicado por Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo, em 1873.

102 103 ges, born in Freixo de Espada à Cinta, and D. Alexandrina Amélia Chaves, an Azorean a place he held until January 1892137. However, he was not completely cured. He died, a woman from the island of S. Miguel. The wedding was attended by prominent poli- few months later, at the age of 43, leaving his widow, D. Virgínia de Chaves and Melo tical figures as witnesses, namely the head of the Regenerating Party, Fontes Pereira Gomes Lages, with 6 minor children138. de Melo, then President of the Chamber of Peers, Honorary Councilor, Minister and If we know, in reasonable detail, the family and political trajectory of Lopo Vaz de Secretary of State, and the Viscount of Chancellors, Sebastião José de Carvalho, the Sampaio e Melo, we were unable to discover documentation that would allow us to cla- great owner of Alenquer and Par do Reino, who had already held the positions of Civil rify his action as a winegrower, in particular as the owner of Quinta da Costa de Baixo, Governor of Lisbon and Minister of Public Works136. The couple took up residence in in the epic period of the struggle against phylloxera, in the last quarter of the 19th cen- the parish of Santa Catarina, in Travessa da Portuguesa, with the birth of their six chil- tury. We do not know whether Lopo Vaz had any success as a wine grower or whether dren over that decade. he managed to maintain the vast inherited properties, which should then have been al- With the fall of the progressive government in March 1881 and its replacement most completely destroyed. From that time, the farm retains one or another trace that by a regenerating government, headed by António Rodrigues Sampaio, Lopo Vaz de raises more questions than certainties, but that may indicate some changes. The huge Sampaio e Melo was called to exercise the important position of Minister of Finance, flagstone threshing floor, located to the west of the farm’s buildings, suggests an exten- which he held until November of that year. In the elections for the new Chamber of sive investment in cereal crops. It is very likely that this eira date from the phyloxeric Deputies, he would be elected, simultaneously, by Lisbon and Vila Nova de Gaia. In period, in which the death of the vines and the high investments necessary for their October 1883, in the government headed by Fontes Pereira de Melo, he would once replanting will have led, as happened in other farms, to a return to cereal cultivation. again join the government team, as Minister of Justice, a position he held until Fe- bruary 1885, having, meanwhile, been elected deputy by Braga in the 1884 elections. the following year, he was elected to the Chamber of Peers by the District College of 3.4. Quinta da Foz Ceira in the time of post-phyloxeric conversion Braga. In the 1886 and 1889 elections, he would again be elected deputy by the same At Quinta da Foz Ceira, the destruction caused by phylloxera and the sharp circle. drop in income in the 1870s aggravated, with the accumulation of annual interest, the Following the English ultimatum of 11 January 1890, with the fall of José amount of debt of the descendants of Gonçalo Cristóvão, who, on January 1, 1879 , al- Luciano de Castro’s progressive government and the formation of a new regenerative ready amounted to 85,106 $ 912 reis, well above the value of the property. government, headed by António de Serpa Pimentel, Lopo Vaz resumed his post as For the Companhia Geral de Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro, which Minister of Justice until the resignation of that government in October. He would re- maintained the management of the farm, with the aim of paying off this debt, the turn to exercise governmental functions, from May 1891, as Minister of the Kingdom, phylloxeric devastation, placing revenues far below expenses, resulted in a dilemma: in the second supra-party ministry of João Crisóstomo. In July, feeling sick, he asked either the Company returned the farm to its owners, terminating previous contracts to be temporarily replaced in these functions, traveling to Spain, for a thermal water 137 PIMENTEL, Alberto - Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo: biographical sketch. Lisbon: Adolfo, Modesto & C.ª, 1891; cure in Mondariz. Shortly thereafter, on the return trip, he contracted typhoid fever, ALMEIDA, Pedro Tavares de; CLUNY, Isabel - «Melo, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e». In MÓNICA, Maria Filomena (coord.) - Parliamentary Biographical Dictionary. Vol. 2. Lisbon: ICS / Assembly of the Republic, 2005, p. 865- only recovering in November, when he returned to the head of the Kingdom Ministry, 870. 138 Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo passed away in Lisbon on March 20, 1989. He left his sons António (aged 10), Lopo 136 The wedding took place at the parish church of S. Sebastião da Pedreira, in Lisbon, on 02.07.1880. District Ar- (8), Margarida (7), Maria Alexandrina (6), Manuel (5) and Fernando (3). Illustrated Diary. Lisbon, March 21, chive of Lisbon. Parish. S. Sebastião da Pedreira - Marriage registration book, 1880-1883, fl. 81-82. 1989; The leaf. Ruler, 03.23.1892.

Página seguinte - 57. Eira na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sartmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

104 105 and hoping that they would pay the debt contracted by their ancestor, or making large xo, which should then be reduced to «mortories»142. investments in replanting the affected vineyards.

In a first phase, the Company tried the first solution. In November 1879, he filed a civil appeal against the heirs of Gonçalo Cristóvão, in order to terminate the contracts and be reimbursed of the debt and the respective interest. However, in the course of a long process, which lasted more than 12 years, the Company would lose the lawsuit in all court instances, which denied the possibility of termination of the contracts, without the consent of the other party, considering the action brought by Company and ordering it to pay the costs of both parties139.

Only after losing this action, the Company started to invest in the recovery of Quinta da Foz Ceira. The accounts presented by caretakers between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century allow us to see a gradual recovery, starting in 1892, the year in which the first American strains will have been planted there, alongside traditional dips. At that time, an American ‘barbados’ nursery140. was created. From the following year, in addition to the regular farms, both in the vineyards and in the olive groves, and other services, the restoration work on the farm intensified, with works in the «farmhouse, in the frame, doors, windows, frames, four windowpa- nes, and lately, because everything is in ruins, the house has never been repaired»141.

Perhaps for this reason, already in 1896, the Viscount of Vilarinho de S. Romão distinguished Quinta da Foz Ceira, managed by the Company, among the main estates of Gouvinhas. On the contrary, this author does not mention Quinta da Costa de Bai-

139 Gonçalo Cristóvão’s two living sons, António Teixeira Coelho de Melo Pinto da Mesquita and Maria das Dores Teixeira Coelho Freire de Andrade, António Teixeira’s daughter, D. Maria da Graça Teixeira Coelho, and her husband, José Xavier Teixeira de Barros . Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Copy of the instructions and judgment of the Court of Appeal of Porto in the Civil Appeals of the General Company of Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro against the heirs of Gonçalo Cristóvão / José António Teixeira de Melo, 1879-1892. Shortly after this process was started, the nobleman José António Teixeira Coelho Pinto da Mesquita, son of Gonçalo Cristóvão, died on August 31, 1881, in Foz do Douro, in Travessa do Passeio Alegre, where he resided “accidentally”. Porto District Archive. Parish. S. João da Foz do Douro - Death registration book, 1881, fl. 31v. 140 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Farm expenditure documents. 142 In this area, Vilarinho de S. Romão also mentions Quinta da Costa (from Cima), by Viscountess de Guiães. 141 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from VILARINHO DE S. ROMÃO, Visconde de - Viticulture and viniculture. Trás-os-Montes - Alto Douro Central. Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Farm inventories. Lisbon: Imprensa Nacional, 1896, p. 444.

Página seguinte - 58. Panorâmica da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

108 109

4. The Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira farms in the 20th century

4.1. Foz Ceira: from the Company to the heirs of Gonçalo Cristóvão and the subsequent sale

The post-phyloxeric reconstitution of Quinta da Foz Ceira, which had been taking place at a slow pace since 1892, with new plantings and grafting, gained greater expression in the first decade of the 20th century. The large surribas, with the use of dynamite, the planting of several thousand American grapevines per year and the construction of shale walls occurred mainly between 1902 and 1912. At that time, under the guidance of the caretaker José da Silva e Sousa, the farm employed throughout the year in the renovation of the vineyards and in the farms 30 to 40 men, in addition to women and boys. In a few years, there are also references to planting olive groves143. Be- tween 1908 and 1910, several miners worked on the farm, “breaking the mine” of water. And in 1911, a new pier was built144.

The Douro region then went through a period of great social unrest. The phylloxeric crisis and the subsequent reconstitution of the vineyards left many owners in debt. Since the end of the 19th century, with many vineyards already recovered, vi- ticulturists faced increasing difficulties in the disposal of their wines. In a phase of commercial freedom, the processes of unfair competition increased, with the use of 143 In 1907, for example, 300 olive trees were planted. Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Com- pany of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Farm expenditure documents. 144 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Farm expenditure documents.

59. Quinta da Costa de Baixo, em 1951. Fotografia de Foto Carv., Alijó. Col. Bulas.

113 60. Surriba de terreno de encosta no Douro com dinamite. Fotografia da Casa Alvão, c. 1940. Col. Cen- 62 e 63. Mina de água na Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. tro Português de Fotografia. 61. Erguida de vinha no Douro. Fotografia da Casa Alvão, c. 1940. Col. Centro Português de Fotografia. 114 115 cheaper wines from other regions for the composition of batches of Port wine. For this reason, alongside the demand for State protection measures, namely to reinstate the regulatory legislation for the production and trade of wines, wine rallies in protest against counterfeiters were multiplying. Here and there, more violent popular actions were unleashed, especially in the main railway stations, such as those in Régua, Pinhão or Tua, where it was suspected that wine barrels from other regions could arrive. One of those first riots against counterfeiting of Port wines took place on May 1, 1906 at Covelinhas station. Hundreds of people, armed with agricultural implements, invaded the station’s warehouse and made the barrels of counterfeit wine explode with dynamite, given the impotence of the authorities present. The republican daily A Voz Pública transcribed, in the May 2 edition, a telegram sent from Régua the previous day: were dispatched to take the name of the Douro. I cannot transmit more»145. And in the next day’s edition, the same newspaper described the popular unrest experienced in those days in Covelinhas and Régua. Under the heading «The question of the Douro / An insurrection / Casks of Southern wine in the Douro - At Covelinhas station - In Régua - Destruction», the front page story narrates the events in detail, as can be read in the following excerpt: «Moments later, the quay doors are again invaded by the crowd, brandishing farming tools, in a horrible, deafening shouting. / The worthy administrator of the county, accompanied by the secretary, officers, governor, tries in vain to con- tain the wave of people, thirsting for justice. / - Pop the kites! This is our misfortune! Nobody comes to us! / The pier is invaded abruptly. […] / A lot of people are looking for a way out where they can, with the voice of: - dynamite! Through a wide side door, on the side of the Douro River, the 11 wine casks had flown, dragged as if by a cyclone»146.

Similar riots in the railway stations, as well as fires in the Finance Departments of some municipalities, would multiply mainly after 1909, after the government’s main demand for the replacement of Port wine regulatory legislation was met. On May 10, 1907, João Franco, when beginning his dictatorship government, promulgated a decree defining the new Douro Demarcated Region, with the exclusive right to produce Port wine, reserving the Douro river bar for the export of that wine, in addition to other control measures. It also announced the creation of a regulatory body, the Viticulture 145 A Voz Pública, 02.05.1906, p. 1. 146 A Voz Pública, 03.05.1906, p. 1.

64. Notícia do motim de Covelinhas. A Voz Pública, 02.05.1906, p. 1.

116 117 Commission of the Douro Region. However, João Franco’s measures and others that followed him did not have the desired effect. In view of the continuation of the commercial crisis and the practices of wine counterfeiting, the end of the Monarchy and the early days of the Republic would be marked by a climate of great social unrest in the Douro.

Meanwhile, the restoration work at Quinta da Foz Ceira continued. In 1913, there was a new attempt to resolve the property issue. In the first months of that year, the descendants of Gonçalo Cristóvão proposed to the Companhia Geral de Agricul- tura das Vinhas do Alto Douro the amicable settlement of the debt contracted by his great-grandfather in 1818. In this sense, “to end old and new claims on the three farms of Azinheira, Foz do Ceira and Celeirós », sent the Company a proposal for an agreement that contemplated the following points:« Settlement of all accounts from party to party / Withdrawal of our rights and new claims / Sale of the properties of which it is composed [m ] the three farms, receiving a total of thirty contos de réis»147. However, they did not reach an agreement, continuing the fifth to be managed by the Company.

In the early thirties, the farm, with 4.5 hectares of vines and 23 thousand strains, already produced 35 to 40 barrels of wine148. But there were years when production was well below that value, as happened in the terrible vintage of 1936, which yielded only 16 kites149.

Meanwhile, the organization of the corporate model of regulation of the sector, in 1932-1933, with the creation of Casa do Douro, the Port Wine Institute and the Gré- mio dos Port Wine Exporters, coinciding with the establishment of the Estado Novo, made harder to plant new crops and increase production. Only at the beginning of the

147 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Correspondence with Gonçalo Cristóvão’s heirs for amicable debt settlement. Letter from Francisco José Xavier Teixeira Coelho to the Company’s management, January 15, 1913. 148 In 1932, he produced 19,250 liters of must to which he added 4,950 liters of brandy, totaling 24,200 liters (44 barrels) of fortified wine. Casa do Douro Archive. Fund for Viticulture of the Douro Region - Manifesto of the production of fortified wines from the year 1932. The following year, it produced 19,250 liters (35 barrels). Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Farm inventories. Douro House. Registration of wine producing properties in the Douro Wine Region. 149 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Documents from Gonçalo Cristóvão’s farms. Gonçalo Cristóvão’s debts and heirs to the Company.

65. Sede da Casa do Douro, na Régua. Fotografia da Casa Alvão, c. 1945. Col. Centro Português de Foto- grafia. 66. Manifesto da produção de vinho de 1932 da Quinta da Foz Ceira, administrada pela Companhia Ger- 118al da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro. Arquivo da Casa do Douro. Fundo Comissão de Viticultura 119 da Região do Douro. following decade, in 1942 and 1944, despite commercial difficulties due to the outbreak of World War II, which caused a sharp drop in exports of Port wine, Casa do Douro would authorize the replanting of about 2 hectares of came to Foz Ceira, in a total of 18 thousand strains. But we do not know whether such rights were actually used. Proba- bly not, since, since 1943, the Company’s management has tried to resolve, definitively, the old debt problem left by Gonçalo Cristóvão, which had been dragging on for more than a century and which already amounted, with the respective interest, to 172,166 $ 35. For this, he consulted lawyers and initiated friendly negotiations with the descendants of Gonçalo Cristóvão. Finally, on January 15, 1947, the debt deed and return of farms was formalized, including that of Foz Ceira, to the heirs of Gonçalo Cristóvão150.

The division of property by several heirs would have justified its sale a few years later. On January 15, 1955, Quinta da Foz Ceira would be purchased by the merchant Silvano Vitorino Machado, from Peso da Régua. At that time, the farm, with an area of about 12.5 hectares, had, besides housing houses, storage, wine presses and cellars, with two vats with capacity for 32 barrels of wine, vineyards with 27 thousand vines, in the middle of which, certainly in border, there were 152 olive trees, 14 fruit trees and 8 recently planted almond trees. The farm also had cultivated land with 70 cord vines and 2 fruit trees, an olive grove with 742 olive trees, 4 fruit trees and 4 cork trees, and mountain land. It produced potatoes, corn, rye, olive oil, fruit, wine, bush, cork and almonds. Annual wine production was around 20 barrels151.

Son of small farmers in Lousa, in the municipality of Moncorvo, where he was born in 1884, Silvano Vitorino Machado would become one of the great traders of Ré- gua in the first half of the 20th century. After completing his primary education, his father employed him as a marquis at a grocery store in Porto, where he spent two years, and then moved to another business house in Gaia. A violent rebuke from the boss, for having arrived home late on a Sunday off, prompted him to place an ad in a newspaper, receiving a job offer in Régua at José Lopes da Silva’s business establishment, which would soon pass away, in February 1902. At the age of 18, Silvano started to play an

150 Douro Museum. Archive of the General Agriculture Company of the Alto Douro Vineyards - Accounts of Gon- çalo Cristóvão; SOUSA, Fernando de (coordin.) - The Real Companhia Velha. General Agriculture Company of Alto Douro Vineyards (1756-2006). Porto: Center for Population, Economy and Society Studies, 2006, p. 355. 151 Conservatory of the Land Registry of the Municipality of Sabrosa - Rustic Building Matrix.

67. Porta de uma das casas da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. Página seguinte - 68. Vista geral da Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 120 121

69. Casa da Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 70 e 71. Lagares das casas da Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

125 72 e 73. Tonéis na Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 74. Pormenor da escada entre os tonéis na Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 126 75. Amendoeiras em flor na Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 76 e 77. Laranjal na Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas;Olival na Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 129 important role in «Casa Viúva Lopes, which became one of the best in Régua». In 1916, the company Viúva Lopes da Silva & C.ª was formed, with the widow Lopes, her four children (Joaquim, José, Rosa and Ângelo) and Silvano Vitorino Machado, who took over the management of the large trading house. Five years later, in December 1921, Silvano married Rosa Lopes da Silva, daughter of the widow Lopes, reinforcing his position in society. In July of the following year, the house faced the first test of fire, with a big fire, which reduced everything to ashes, and then Silvano’s energetic action was decisive, which made the establishment rebuild and quickly recover its grandeur. . In 1943, the widow Lopes, shortly before his death, promoted the dissolution of the company Viúva Lopes da Silva & C.ª and the foundation of the firm Silvano & Cunhados, only with the partners Silvano and his two brothers-in-law Joaquim and Ângelo Lopes da Silva, whose establishment continued to be known as Casa Viúva Lopes, the largest trading house in Régua, which supplied many farms in the region, until the great fire of 9 August 1953, where thousands of contos of goods were lost, among which « 600 bags of rice, lots of sugar, hundreds of bales of cod ». The bureaucratic difficulties that delayed the reconstruction of the building and the disagreements between Silvano and his brothers-in-law would lead to the dissolution of the company in December 1954, leaving the Lopes da Silva brothers with the assets in Régua and Silvano with Quinta da Vacaria, in Vilarinho dos Freires , who belonged to the house since 1928. Silvano Vito- rino Machado was then 70 years old, but he felt with enough energy to launch himself into agricultural activity. As he wrote in his memoir: “I, who was a merchant, became a farmer, and my brothers-in-law, who were farmers, turned to merchants. People, after a few years of work, bore the art or service they have been working on and look for another occupation ». A month after taking possession of Quinta da Vacaria, Silvano Vitorino Machado bought Quinta da Foz Ceira, investing in the wine industry, but he continued to be a merchant, opening, still in 1955, a new commercial house in Régua, at Rua João de Lemos, in front of the chapel of Cruzeiro152.

We do not have relevant information about this period in the life of Quinta da Foz Ceira. In 1979, it was sold to Fernando Alves Gomes and Hernâni Alves Gomes, from Covelinhas. Still in that year, the total ownership of the property passed to the 152 MACHADO, Silvano Vitorino - Memories of a trade professional. Régua: Imprensa do Douro, 1955. I am grateful to Dr. José Alfredo Almeida for giving me a scanned copy of this unique little book of memories.

78. Capa do livrinho de memórias publicado por Silvano Vitorino Machado, em 1955.

130 131 second, which would sell it to the company M. Bulas Cruz Lda, in 1990153.

4.2. A Costa de Baixo: from the Sampaio e Melo family to José Bulas Cruz

We do not know what happened at Quinta da Costa de Baixo between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 1930s. As we have already mentioned, the death of Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e Melo in 1892, the farm should have been totally destroyed by the phylloxera and it is likely that, at that time, it would invest in extensive crops, in particular cereals. We were also unable to discover the date on which the heirs of Lopo Vaz sold the property, certainly before 1931, since, in that year, it already belonged to Manuel Marques Gomes, a wealthy owner and dealer resident in Canidelo, municipality of Vila Nova de Gaia.

It is worth evoking, in a rough outline, the life path of this Brazilian who makes travel. Born in Canidelo, on November 15, 1866, in a family of humble origin, he was orphaned as a child, thus benefiting him from the protection of his godmother. At the age of 18 he emigrated, clandestine, to Brazil. In Belém do Pará, he worked as a marquis at two commercial houses. In the second, Dias, Irmão & C.ª, became a trusted man of the boss and, soon, manager. After the death of the boss, he ended up buying the firm from the heir, founding the company Marques Gomes & C.ª, dedicated to the import of Portuguese wines and export to Portugal of Brazilian spirits, coffee and sugar. In 1891, at the age of 25, he married Rosalina dos Santos, daughter of a businessman from Pará, from Figueira da Foz. At that time, he extended his business to the shipping sector, having founded the father-in-law and other partners to Empresa de Navigation of Grão-Pará. The great surge in rubber exploitation made shipping in the Amazon prosper, resulting in increasing profits, which allowed the young businessman Mar- ques Gomes to also become an influential local benefactor, supporting, financially, the expansion or construction of hospitals, as the Third Order of S. Francisco, in Belém do Pará, and the Beneficente Portuguesa, in Manaus, as well as recreational and reading clubs, such as the Clube Euterpe and the Grémio Literário e Recreativo Português. In 1899, probably due to illness, he returned with his family to his homeland. He would

153 Conservatory of the Land Registry of the Municipality of Sabrosa - Rustic Building Matrix.

79. Manuel Marques Gomes. In TAVARES, Domingos — Palacete Marques Gomes. Porto: Dafne Edito- ra, 2015.

132 133 soon be involved in new businesses, having initially joined the firm Bento e Cunha & Cª, from Matosinhos, a wine exporter to Brazil. Shortly after, in 1901, he bought the great Quinta do Montado, in the place of Alumiara, in Canidelo, where he had a sump- tuous palace built, designed by the architect António Correia da Silva. He started to focus his activities there as an agricultural, industrial (he set up a fish canning factory) and commercial entrepreneur, having invested in the construction of a Warehouse for Generous and Old Wines154. Manuel Marques Gomes was registered as an exporter of Port wine at the Customs Port between 1907 and 1915. In the last year, activity would have ceased, probably due to the difficulties of exporting to Brazil caused by the scar- city of maritime transport in the Great War. But, after the war ended, he resumed his activity as an exporter, which would cease, again, in 1921155. As in Brazil, Marques Go- mes became known in Canidelo for many philanthropic actions, through the provision of land and financial support for the construction of schools, roads, restoration works and expansion of the church, foundation of the local sports club, etc. 156.

Probably it was this entrepreneur Manuel Marques Gomes who started the pos- t-phyloxeric reconstitution of Quinta da Costa de Baixo. In 1931, the estate produced 6,800 liters of fortified wine (12.36 barrels; 6,100 liters of must to which 700 liters of brandy were added)157. However, having died shortly after, on January 18, 1932, it was not easy for the widow and her 13 children to share the vast inheritance. As for Quin- ta da Costa de Baixo, he passed it on to his eldest son, Eng. Manuel Marques Gomes, to whom he still belonged in 1939, when he already produced more than 20 kites158. 154 GOMES, Joaquim Costa - «The honorable Marques Gomes died 60 years ago in Canidelo». Bulletin of the Associação Cultural Amigos de Gaia, No. 34, 1992, p. 45-50; TAVARES, Domingos - Marques Gomes Palace. Porto: Dafne Editora, 2015, p. 13-18; CONDE, António Adérito Alves - «Manuel Marques Gomes (1866-1932)». In GUIMARÃES, J. A. Gonçalves (coord.) - Cultural Heritage of Gaia. Vol. 1: Human Heritage. Gaiense personalities (coordinated by Gonçalo de Vasconcelos and Sousa). Vila Nova de Gaia: Municipality of Vila Nova de Gaia / Friends of Solar Condes de Resende-Confraria Queirosiana, 2017, p. 181. 155 PINTÃO, Manuel; CABRAL, Carlos - Illustrated Dictionary of Port Wine. S. Paulo: Editora de Cultura, 2011, p. 331. 156 GOMES, Joaquim Costa - «The honorable Marques Gomes died 60 years ago in Canidelo». Bulletin of the Associação Cultural Amigos de Gaia, nº 34, 1992, p. 45-50; CONDE, António Adérito Alves - «Manuel Marques Gomes (1866-1932)». In GUIMARÃES, J. A. Gonçalves (coord.) - Cultural Heritage of Gaia. Vol. 1: Human Heri- tage. Gaiense personalities (coordinated by Gonçalo de Vasconcelos and Sousa). Vila Nova de Gaia: Municipality of Vila Nova de Gaia / Friends of Solar Condes de Resende-Confraria Queirosiana, 2017, p. 181. 157 Casa do Douro Archive. Fund for Viticulture of the Douro Region - Manifesto of the production of fortified wines from the year 1931. Quinta da Costa de Baixo, 11.12.1931. 158 CORDEIRO, J. Alcino (ed.) - Yearbook of the Douro Region 1940. Régua: Imprensa do Douro, 1939, p. 413; el-

80. Palacete mandado construir por Manuel Marques Gomes em Canidelo, Vila Nova de Gaia. In TAV- ARES, Domingos — Palacete Marques Gomes. Porto: Dafne Editora, 2015.

134 135 However, in May of that year, he sold Rui Ferreira da Silva Brito, from Porto, the «townhouse with two stores and three rooms on the 1st floor and warehouse with 300 m2»159. Another document, from the early forties, included in the process of classifying “Pom- baline landmarks” as National Heritage, places two of these landmarks “on the Renova site” at Quinta da Costa da Baixo, stating that they belonged “to Rui Ferreira da Silva Brito, from Porto, by buying the property on August 16, 1941 from Manuel Marques Gomes»160.

Rui Ferreira da Silva Brito161, better known as Rui de Brito (Ermida), for being the son of the 1st Viscount of Ermida (António Ferreira da Silva Brito), he was married to D. Maria Emília Nunes de Almeida Magalhães162. The childless couple frequented the circles of elegant society at the time, standing out, during the bathing season, as did the whole family of Viscounts of Ermida, in the elitist microcosm of Praia da Granja163.

We are unaware of the reasons that led Rui de Brito to buy a farm in the Douro, at the beginning of World War II, which is not favorable for the Port wine business. He would probably be a friend of Eng. Marques Gomes, since both had attended the Faculty of Sciences (Engineering) between 1915 and 1917, although in different chairs164. Regardless of the reason that led him to acquire Quinta da Costa de Baixo, Rui de Brito (Ermida) did not have much time to take advantage of this investment, since he died, aged 49, on July 17, 1945, in Granja.

On January 22, 1951, the widow, Maria Emília Magalhães de Brito Ermida, formalized the sale of Quinta da Costa de Baixo to Dr. José Bulas Cruz, then a widower, and to Dr. António Nogueira Guedes, married to D. Ana de Lucena Nogueira Guedes, sewhere in the same book (p. 106), Alcino Cordeiro already attributed the property of Quinta da Costa de Baixo to Rui de Brito (Ermida). 159 Conservatory of the Land Registry of the Municipality of Sabrosa - Matriz Predial Urbana. 160 Directorate-General for Public Finance. Distribution of Patrimony. Real Village. Sabrosa. National Monumen- ts, Proc. 1938, L. 6, 1942-1943. Official letter from the Patrimony Division of the Directorate of Finance of the District of Vila Real to the Director General of Public Finance, 02/02/1943. 161 Born on Rua de Santa Catarina, Santo Ildefonso parish, on 09.08.1895. Porto District Archive. Parish. Santo Ildefonso - Baptism registration book, 1895, fl. 209. 162 Daughter of the businessman Álvaro Lambertini de Magalhães and Emília Nunes de Almeida, was born in Espinho, on 03.11.1904. He married Rui de Brito in Arcozelo, on 21.11.1926. 163 CASTRO, António Paes de Sande e - The Farm of all times. Gaia: Gaia City Council, 1973, p. 92, 103 and 492. 164 Yearbook of the Faculty of Sciences of the University of Porto in the academic years 1914-15 to 1917-18. Porto: Tip. of the «Portuguese Encyclopedia», 1918, p. 151 and 153.

82. Primeira página da escritura de compra da Quinta da Costa de Baixo, por José Bulas Cruz e António Nogueira Guedes a Maria Emília Magalhães de Brito Ermida, 22.01.1951. Arquivo da família Bulas Cruz.

136 137 from Gouvinhas. The property, «composed of vineyards, cultivated land, olive groves and dwelling houses», facing East and North with Manuel Pinto Hespanhol, West with Ceira and Quinta da Foz Ceira and South with railway and Douro River, included almost three dozen plots (27 articles of the land matrix)165. In 1962, Dr. José Bulas Cruz would buy Dr. António Nogueira Guedes’s share, taking full ownership of the farm. At that time, Quinta da Costa de Baixo », with an area of around 33 hectares, would be far from being a profitable farm. It consisted of «vineyard with 45,500 vines, 132 olive trees (25 cuttings), 9 fruit trees, olive grove with 104 olive trees (2 cuttings), fruit trees, cultivated land, rye, with 12 fruit trees, 9 almond trees and 14 olive trees (1 stake), mound with 54 olive trees (20 stakes), 10 vines, 50 ash and 1 almond tree », plus“ centeeira land, 38 almond trees and 38 olive trees and 3 fruit trees, monte ”, plus another «Centeeira land, with 2 almond trees, 5 olive trees (1 stake) and mound». At that time, it produced 36 barrels of generous wine, the main yield of the farm, but it still maintained a great diversity of other crops and productions, from olive oil to cereals (corn and rye), to vegetable products (potatoes, onions, etc.), fruits (almonds, figs, etc.) and the use of forests (wood, bush and cork). It also had hives for honey production166.

At the age of 57167, José Bulas Cruz was then a prestigious figure in the corporate regime and in the Douro region. Son of small farmers (António Bulas and Maria da Anunciação da Cruz) from the parish of Pegarinhos, he attended primary education in his village and secondary education in Vila Real and Lamego. He graduated in Me- dicine at the University of Porto in the late 1920s, having specialized in Climatology and Hydrology, Tropical Medicine and Stomatology. Still a student, he married also a student Angelina Augusta Guimarães, from Vilarinho de S. Romão, who would become a pharmacist, of whom he had a son, José Manuel Pardelhas Bulas Cruz168. Having become a widower, he would marry, on second nuptials, in 1953, with Maria Fernanda Moreno Jorge da Silva, 29 years old169, from whom he would have two children, José

165 Bulas Cruz family archive - Certificate of deed of purchase and sale of Quinta da Costa de Baixo, 4th Notary Office of Porto, 22.01.1951. 166 Conservatory of the Land Registry of the Municipality of Sabrosa - Rustic Building Matrix. 167 Born on 03/19/1990, in Pegarinhos, municipality of Alijó. 168 Born on 12.19.1925, in Vilarinho de S. Romão, municipality of Sabrosa. 169 Born on 11.21.1924. He died on February 21, 1994, in Porto.

83. Dr. José Bulas Cruz. Fotografia de Foto Carv. Alijó. Col. Família Bulas Cruz.

138 139 84. Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de José Bulas Cruz. Col. Família Bulas Cruz. 85. Dr. José Bulas Cruz com o primo Manuel Amílcar Vieira e o amigo Domingos Evangelista. Fotogra- fia de Foto Carv. Alijó Col. Família Bulas Cruz. 140 Página anterior - 86. Desenho do marco pombalino feito pelo Dr. Moreira da Fonseca. Col. Família 88. José Bulas Cruz (em baixo, primeiro à direita), com colegas e professores, no final do curso se- Bulas Cruz. cundário no Liceu de Vila Real, 1922. Col. Família Bulas Cruz. 87. Maria da Anunciação da Cruz, António Bulas e seu filho José, 1915. Col. Família Bulas Cruz. 89. José Bulas Cruz, com colegas e professores, no final do curso de Medicina, junto à Reitoria da Uni- 142 versidade do Porto, 1927. Col. Família Bulas Cruz. 143 90. Maria Fernanda Moreno Bulas Cruz. 91 e 92. Col. Família Bulas Cruz. 93. Dr. José Bulas Cruz com os seus filhos. Col. Família Bulas Cruz.

144 145 94. Cédula Profissional do Dr. Bulas Cruz. Col. Família Bulas Cruz. 95 Instalações da Adega Cooperativa de Pegarinhos. Fotografia de José Afonso Bulas Cruz. Col. Bulas. 96. Bairro Social de Pegarinhos. Fotografia de José Afonso Bulas Cruz. Col. Bulas.

146 147 Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz170 and Maria Gabriel Moreno Bulas Cruz171.

Municipal doctor in Alijó and a farmer, José Bulas Cruz took on intense activity in the corporate and political bodies of the Estado Novo. He was Director of the Centro Escolar da Mocidade Portuguesa de Alijó and President of the Municipality Council of the National Union of that municipality. He held many other positions in regional ins- titutions. He was a member of the Board of Directors of Casa do Douro and of the Cor- poration of Lavoura. He was President of the Casa do Povo de Pegarinhos and of the General Council of the Grémio dos Viticultores de Alijó. He was part of the governing bodies of the Federation of Casas do Povo of the District of Vila Real, of the General Board of the District of Vila Real and of the Provincial Board of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro172. José Bulas Cruz also endeavored to implement several projects for the social and economic valorization of his homeland, Pegarinhos, namely in the founding of Adega Cooperativa and in the construction of a social neighborhood.

He was a member of the Corporate Chamber between 1949 and 1953 and between 1958 and 1974, having subscribed and / or reported on several opinions, mainly related to health and rural welfare issues, agricultural development and viticulture173. In October 1964, the European Confederation of Agriculture, meeting in Montreaux, joined the Portuguese delegation to the General Assembly, where he took on the role of vice president of the «Groupe de Travail pour la Viticulture»174.

As of 1974, he did not represent public offices again, dedicating himself exclusi- vely to Medicine, in Alijó and Vila Real, and to the management of his wine-growing properties. In the exploration of Quinta da Costa de Baixo he had the dedicated su-

170 Born on 10.25.1955, in Vila Real. 171 Born on 24.03.1958, in Vila Real. 172 CASTILHO, J. M. Tavares - Attorneys at the Corporate Chamber, 1935-1974. Lisbon: Assembly of the Republic / Texto Editores, 2010. 173 Namely: “Fight against tuberculosis” and “Planting vines on the continent”, in the V Legislature (1949-1953); «Revision of the legal regime of internal colonization» and «Rental of rustic property», in the VII Legislature (1957-1961); «Draft Interim Development Plan for 1965-1967 (Mainland and islands) - ANNEX I - Agriculture, forestry and livestock» and «Agricultural guidance», in the VIII Legislature (1961-1965); and «Project of the Third Development Plan, for 1968-1973? Continent and Islands - ANNEX II? Agriculture, forestry and livestock »and« Reorganization of the Houses of the People and rural welfare », in the 9th Legislature (1965-1969). Idem, ibidem. 174 CRUZ, Manuel Braga da; PINTO, António Costa (right) - Parliamentary Biographical Dictionary, 1935-1974. Vol. 1. Lisbon: Assembly of the Republic / Institute of Social Sciences, University of Lisbon, 2004, p. 502-503.

97. Dr. José Bulas Cruz e Álvaro Saraiva, caseiro da Quinta da Costa de Baixo, 1970. Col. Dr. José Alfre- do Almeida.

148 149 pport of the caretaker, Álvaro Saraiva, who stayed there for many years.

4.3. José Bulas Cruz’s successors and the wine expansion

In June 1979, José Bulas Cruz, then 74, decided to transfer the ownership of his assets to his three children, through a deed of donation, on account of the available part of the inheritance. The eldest son, José Manuel Pardelhas Bulas Cruz, was already 54 years old and married to Lígia Ribeiro Rufino, from Alijó, where they lived with their three adult children (António José, 28, Manuel Eduardo, 26, and Ana Cristina, aged 21). The youngest children, José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz and Maria Gabriel Moreno Bulas Cruz, from his second marriage to Maria Fernanda Moreno Jorge da Silva, were then 24 and 21 years old, respectively, and lived with their parents in Vila Real. José Afonso had graduated, in the previous year, in Electrotechnical Engineering at the University of Porto. Maria Gabriel also attended the Philosophy course at the Faculty of Arts of the University of Porto, which she would conclude shortly after.

Quinta da Costa de Baixo and other lands in Gouvinhas were donated to the youngest children, José Afonso and Maria Gabriel175. The first harvest carried out by the new generation, in 1979, took place without any problems, which José Afonso con- siders to have been “a sort of” almost “beginner”. In addition to the grapes that were sold, as usual, to an exporting house, about 20 barrels of Port wine were vinified on the farm, which proved to be excellent and which was sold in large part at a very high price for that time.

In the immediate years, the farm’s management remained unchanged and certainly benefited from the support of the father176, with the diligent caretaker, Álvaro Saraiva, married to D. Etelvina, continuing to manage the current agricultural work and personnel. But, already in 1981, the two brothers decided to apply for the registration of the Quinta da Costa de Baixo brand177. And, as of the autumn of 1982, they 175 Bulas Cruz family archive - Certificate of deed of donation made by José Bulas Cruz to his children, Notary of Alijó, 27.06.1979. 176 José Bulas Cruz died on 28.03.1983, in Porto. 177 Trademark application filed on 19.10.1981 by José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz. INPI (National Institute of In- dustrial Property) - Trademark registrations. Available online at http://servicosonline.inpi.pt/pesquisa/main/

98. Dr. José Bulas Cruz com os seus filhos mais novos. Col. Família Bulas Cruz.

150 151 bet on the wine conversion of the farm, at the same time that they decided to enroll in the special register of the Port Wine Institute as “producer-sellers” of Port wine in the national market, since direct export from the Douro was not yet allowed (only in 1986 would the legislation be amended accordingly). The registration as “producer-sellers” of Port wine would be approved by the IVP in November178, setting the limit of the sales capacity in the national market at 60% of the stock stored at Quinta da Costa de Baixo, which, at that time, was only 87.5 barrels179, but it was a valuable heritage, with wines from different harvests, some quite old.

However, the formalities to be carried out for direct marketing, from the submission of wines for approval by the IVP and obtaining guarantee seals, as well as the clothing of the bottles to be placed on the market, to stock declarations and sales movements, constituted difficulties. added to the two young brothers who launched themselves into a demanding and highly competitive business, without an adequate business machine. Only in March 1984 did they obtain approval for wine and clothing for the commercialization of a Tawny Port from Quinta da Costa de Baixo180. This was followed by Port wines with an indication of age (10, 20 and 30 years) and a white Port. However, direct sales under the farm brand were residual. In 1985, there were only 504 liters. And, in the harvest of that year, own production destined for direct marketing was 1,947 liters (550 of red and 1,397 of white)181, of a total of about 33,000 liters (60 barrels) entitled to benefit182, continuing to most of that wine to be sold to exporting companies, namely Real Companhia Velha (Quinta das Carvalhas) and Symington (Quinta do Bonfim). In those early years of the start of direct marketing, the collaboration of Manuel Bernardo Pinho, owner of «Garrafeira de Fátima», in Ourém, where about

marcas.jsp? lang = PT. Retrieved on 04.10.2019. 178 Douro Museum. Historical Archive of the Port Wine Institute - Letter from the IVP to Maria Gabriel Moreno Bulas Cruz and José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz, 11.12.1982. 179 Douro Museum. Historical Archive of the Port Wine Institute - Letter from the IVP to Maria Gabriel Moreno Bulas Cruz and José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz, 11/24/1998. 180 Douro Museum. Historical Archive of the Port Wine Institute - Letter from the IVP to José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz, 16.03.1984. 181 Douro Museum. Historical Archive of the Port Wine Institute - Letter from José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz to the IVP, 16.01.1986. 182 Archive of the Center for Viticultural Studies in the Douro - Application process for the conversion of wine from Quinta da Costa de Baixo to support from IFADAP - Financial Institute for Support to the Development of Agriculture and Fisheries, 1985.

99. Garrafa de Porto Tawny da Quinta da Costa de Baixo, lançada no mercado em 1984. Col. Bulas.

152 153 90% of Port wines bottled under the Quinta da Costa de Baixo brand, was decisive.

Simultaneously, since December 1982, José Afonso and Maria Gabriel carried out efforts with the official bodies (Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho, Regional Directorate for Agriculture / Center for Viticultural Studies), to continue the viticultural modernization of the properties, which had been initiated by the father in the previous decade, but who had only managed to reconvert a small extension of the quinta’s vineyard (about 2.3 ha). With part of the planting licenses that passed from their father and others that they requested, from 1985 onwards, the two brothers carried out several plantations of new vineyards, on levels (in total, some 12 hectares, 10 of which on the slope facing the Douro and a small vineyard, next to the threshing floor, with about 2 hectares, on the Rio Ceira side) with the noble varieties recommended for the production of Port wine (40% Touriga Francesa, 30% Tinta Roriz, 10% Touriga Nacional and 10 % Tinta Barroca), under the PDRITM - Integrated Rural Development Project of Trás-os-Montes183. The different personalities of the two brothers, Maria Gabriel more thoughtful and José Afonso more daring, did not prevent them from always main- taining great agreement in relation to the management strategies and the main solu- tions to the problems of the farm.

This first phase of wine conversion at Quinta da Costa de Baixo was not easy. On the one hand, the very high interest rates of the time (reaching 32.5%), which burdened bank credit, forced to limit the initial project to modernize the farm, as well as to dispose of other properties, in order to solve all the charges . On the other hand, the life trajectories of José Afonso and Maria Gabriel, who, meanwhile, had formed a family184 and started their professional careers185, deprived them of availability for greater dedication to their business project. At that time, the farm employed only three permanent workers, including the caretaker.

For this reason, until the beginning of the 21st century, despite the new planta- 183 Archive of the Douro Wine Studies Center - Various documents related to Quinta da Costa de Baixo, 1982-1985. 184 José Afonso married Isolina Maria Pereira, professor of Philosophy, and Maria Gabriel married Carlos Alberto Magalhães Gomes Mota, also graduated in Philosophy and professor. 185 José Afonso began, in 1985, his teaching career at UTAD - University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, where he has been a full professor since 1998, having a doctorate at the University of Bristol, United Kingdom, in 1995. Maria Gabriel, professor of Philosophy, went on to obtain a PhD in Educational Sciences, being also a professor at UTAD.

100. Armazém e casas da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Col. Família Bulas Cruz. e 101.Por - menor de muro de xisto. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. Página seguite - 102. Patamares de vinha na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento 154 Costa. Col. Bulas. 155

103. Vinhas em patamares: vinha em produção e nova plantação, na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotogra- fia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 104 e 105. Vinha em patamares, no Inverno, depois da poda, na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas e Vinha velha, em socalcos, na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia159 de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 106. e 107. Muros e patamares. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas 108. Escada de acesso na Vinha da Renova, onde se encontra o marco de 1758. Fotografia de Pedro Sar- mento Costa. Col. Bulas 160 109. Oliveira centenária na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas 110 e 111. Sobreiro na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas e Mata na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas 163 tions of vines on terraces, the overall image of Quinta da Costa de Baixo, continued to & Bulas Cruz, which changed, however, the social pact, being dissolved in the end of be dominated by traditional old terraced vines with decayed shale walls and vast stains that year, to create a new company. More recently, in March 2013, Bulas Family Estates “mortories”, which hindered the economic and financial viability of the agricultural would be created. company. In 1991, they requested authorization to reconstitute another 12 hectares of vines, but replanting would only take place in 2002, with support from the Vitis pro- gram. However, the two brothers acquired other properties, with emphasis on the purchase of neighboring Quinta da Foz Ceira in 1990, Hernâni Alves Gomes. In 2007, they also acquired several small wine estates in the municipalities of Carrazeda de Ansiães (Castinceiro, in Linhares de Ansiães; Caldeirão - Valdais - Corredoura and Batocas or Valdares, in Vilarinho da Castanheira) and Torre de Moncorvo (Ribeiro do Cio), with a view transfer of planting rights186.

New plantations and replantations have followed, modernizing almost entirely the wine production of Quinta da Costa de Baixo, with about 29 ha of vineyards, in a total area of almost 36 ha. In the attached properties (Quinta do Sol, Costa and Sam- paio, together with around 14 ha), also located in the parish of Gouvinhas, wine modernization has also been taking place, with a view to guaranteeing the economic sustainability of the exploitation187. On the other hand, in Foz Ceira, with almost 7 ha of vineyards, most of them over 60 years old, the objective is to preserve these vineyards with high oenological potential, seeking to maintain the diversity of grape varieties and the traditional techniques of growing the vine terraced, in combination with the farm’s tourism project.

In the last twenty years, the portfolio of wines produced and marketed by the company has increased and diversified. In addition to the range of different categories of Port wines, since the late 1990s, investment has been made in the production of Doc Douro wines, first in small quantities, but growing in the most recent harvests.

The company’s organization has also undergone major changes. By mutual agreement between the two brothers, in May 2002, Maria Gabriel transferred to Ana- bela Gonçalves Correia de Paiva (José Afonso’s wife) her share in the company Moreno

186 Archive of the Center for Viticultural Studies in the Douro - Declarations sent to CEVD to obtain planting rights, 2007. 187 Archive of the Douro Wine Studies Center - Various documents related to Quinta da Costa de Baixo, 1990-2017.

164 165 112. Quinta da Foz Ceira. Fotografia de Col. Família Bulas Cruz. 114. José Afonso Bulas Cruz. Fotografia de Pedro Silva. Col. Bulas. 113. Vinha na Quinta do Sol. Fotografia de Filipa Soares. Col. Bulas. 115. Anabela Gonçalves Correia de Paiva e José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmen- to Costa. Col. Bulas. 166 167

5. Bulas Family Estates

5.1. The company and the brand

Bulas is a family name and prestigious wine brand from the Douro region. The current owners of the Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira farms adopted the brand in honor of their father, José Bulas Cruz, who acquired the first of those farms in 1951, laying the foundations of the current company, Bulas Family Estates, which also boasts the your signature.

At first, as we mentioned in the previous chapter, the company (M. Bulas Cruz) only directly sold a small part of the Port wines from its stock and did so under the Quinta da Costa de Baixo brand. In the nineties, after acquiring Quinta da Foz Ceira, it also registered the brand related to that property, Fozceira, for Doc Douro wines, alongside Demarcation188 for Vintage Port wines. It was, above all, the idea of terroir that the company intended to transmit in these first brands.

With the development of the commercialization of Port wines and Doc Dou- ro table wines, since the end of the first decade of our century, despite being a period of crisis, or perhaps because of that, the contraction of the internal market stimulated the companies investing in internationalization, there were significant changes in the company’s orientation. First of all, of the seven trademarks registered between 2008 and 2014, five include the family name - Bulls, Bulls Eyra, Bulls Vinha do Caes, 188 Applications for registration of these two marks were submitted on 9/11/1997 by José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz. INPI (National Institute of Industrial Property) - Trademark registrations. Available online at http://servicosonline.inpi.pt/pesquisa/main/marcas.jsp? lang = PT. Retrieved on 04.10.2019.

Página anterior - 116. Vindima na Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 117. Rolhas Bulas. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 171

Bulls Muro Alto, Bulls Marco 127189. It is not, moreover, the replacement of evocative designations of the terroir by family name, but, rather, of a deliberate articulation between both, since five of the registered trademarks include toponyms (Seyra and Vinha do Caes) or elements of the properties› heritage (Eyra, Muro Alto and Marco 127). Obviously, in managing the image of any company, what counts, more than the set of registered trademarks, is its use to identify and distinguish its best products. However, in the case of the company Bulas Family Estates, the registration, in the last three years, of a large number of brands unrelated to the family name190 has little significance in view of the sale of most of its premium wines, including reserves and categories under the Bulas brand, which is increasingly dominant in the company’s portfolio. Seyra plays the role of a secondary premium brand.

In all cases, the company’s brands were built around the concepts of tradition and heritage (product / family / region), aiming to create an emotional attachment to consumers coupled with the excellence of wines.

Moreover, since 2011, the decisive year in which the company launched itself into internationalization, the talented designer Helena Lobo, from Vila Real, was entrusted with the design of a new graphic image for the labels and promotional ma- terials for Bulas wines, corresponding to the bet new forms of communication and marketing for the company.

Over the past five years, it has also gradually invested in corporate reorganization, with the entry of new staff, whose collaboration has proved to be decisive in the valorization of Bulas wines and their affirmation in the market. At the end of 2019, the company integrates 15 permanent workers, 9 of which in viticulture, inclu-

189 Applications for registration of these marks were submitted on 14.01.2008, 01.02.2012 and 28.01.2014 (the last three), by José Afonso Moreno Bulas Cruz, who, in this period, also applied for the registration of Diwine marks (on 29.12. 2010) and Seyra (on 12/24/2011). INPI (National Institute of Industrial Property) - Trademark registrations. Available online at http://servicosonline.inpi.pt/pesquisa/main/marcas.jsp? lang = PT. Retrieved on 04.10.2019. 190 Namely, Triumpho M. Bulas Cruz (application submitted on 11/01/2016), Zayde (11/22/2016), Sirga (11/24/2016), Caminho de Sirga (9/21/2017), Douro Soul and Mercatur Douro (23/03. 2018), Porto Alto (04.04.2018), Porto San- ders (31.05.2018), Triumpho (27.02.2019), Shipper’s (22.03.2019), INPI (National Institute of Industrial Property) - Trademark registrations. Available online at http://servicosonline.inpi.pt/pesquisa/main/marcas.jsp? lang = PT. Retrieved on 04.10.2019.

Página anterior - 118. Garrafa de Fozceira. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 120. Logotipo da marca Bulas inspirado na assinatura do Dr. José Bulas Cruz. Página anterior - 119. Garrafa de Demarcação. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

174 175 121. Garrafa de vinho do Porto Bulas. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas. 122. Degustação e brinde com vinhos Bulas. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas.

177 123. Brinde com vinho Doc Douro branco Seyra. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 124. Garrafa de Doc Douro branco Seyra. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

178 ding the caretaker, Emanuel Pinto, who has been at the house for 19 years, and the winemakers Joana Duarte and Rosário Carvalhais. During periods of intensification of vineyard work, which require occasional labor, there has been recourse to hiring agricultural contractors. The marketing and commercialization area currently employs 3 employees, under the direction of Isabel Vieira Pinheiro da Veiga. With the recent creation of the tourism area, two more people were hired. Of the 15 current employees of the company, 9 have higher academic training (bachelor or master).

5.2. New investments

In recent years, the company’s evolution has involved significant investments in several areas. First of all, in production, in which, as we saw in the previous chapter, most of the vineyards were replanted and modernized farming operations. Currently, the company’s agricultural properties, with around 77 hectares, 63 of which are vineyards, produce an average of 172 thousand liters of Doc Douro and Porto wines191.

Desde 2010, realizaram-se, também, importantes obras de requalificação no in- terior da vasta adega da Quinta da Costa de Baixo, cuja conclusão se prevê para 2020. Foi renovada toda a armação, com vista a obter um melhor controlo ambiental. Parale- lamente, investiu-se na modernização do equipamento, tanto de vinificação como de stockagem e envelhecimento.

Since 2010, important requalification works have also been carried out inside the vast winery of Quinta da Costa de Baixo, which is expected to be completed in 2020. The entire frame has been renovated in order to obtain better environmental control. At the same time, investments were made in modernizing the equipment, both in terms of winemaking and stocking and aging.

The dwelling house also underwent major works inside, with a view either to

191 Quinta da Costa de Baixo, with around 36 hectares, 30 of which has been completely converted, produces about 80 thousand liters. Quinta da Foz Ceira, with a total area of 11 hectares, 8 vines, produces about 20 thousand liters. Quinta do Sol, in Gouvinhas, with about 15 hectares, 12 of which are of vineyard, has an average production of 30 thousand liters. Quinta do Carrasqueiro, in Cotas, Alijó, has about 7 hectares, 5 of vineyards, producing about 16 thousand liters. And Quinta da Salgueirinha, with about 8 hectares, fully planted with vines, gives about 26 thousand liters. The company intends to sell the latter property.

Página anterior - 125. Equipa da empresa Bulas. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 126. Instalações de vinificação da Quinta da Costa de Baixo.Fotografia de José Afonso Bulas Cruz. Col. Bulas. 182 183 127. Armazém da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 128 e 129. Armazém da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

185 130 e 131. Casa da Quinta da Costa de Baixo, após obras de requalificação. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas e Grupo de visitantes na eira da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sar- mento Costa. Col. Bulas. 186132. Turistas apreciando a paisagem na vinha da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sar- mento Costa. Col. Bulas. 133. Expositor na loja da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 134 e 135. Sala de jantar da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas e Sala de provas da Quinta da Costa de Baixo. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 189 136 e 137. Projeto de obras na fachada da «Bulas Wine & Music», no Largo dos Lóios, no Porto. Foto- grafia de Filipa Soares. Col. Bulas e Concerto ao vivo na «Bulas Wine & Music», no Largo dos Lóios, no Porto. Fotografia de Filipa Soares. 190138. Tábua de petiscos na «Bulas Wine & Music». Fotografia de Pedro Silva. Col. Bulas. its recovery or to the adaptation of some of its spaces for wine tourism activities, started in November 2019. The objective is to provide visitors with conditions to enjoy the rural environment, with possibility of accommodation, and tasting of wines and other products from the farm. Care was taken to preserve the design of the building (as in the border cellar), as well as the familiar character of the house, which is now open to tourism, but on a small scale.

In turn, the opening of the Bulas Wine & Music space in the historic center of Porto (Rua dos Caldeireiros / Largo dos Lóios), in the summer of 2019, aimed to reach a wider audience, at a time of strong tourist attractiveness in the city. Working simultaneously as a store and space for tasting Bulas wines (Porto and Douro), accompanied by snacks to suit different types of wines and the tastes of customers, Bulas Wine & Music is a showcase of the company’s products, aiming to expand the its visibility in a market where the multitudes of tourists that flock to Porto from all corners of the world have been searching for typicality.

With different objectives, the adhesion of the company Bulas Family Estates to the project Regia Douro Park - Science and Technology Park of Vila Real, promoted by the Municipality of Vila Real and the University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, in collaboration with Portuspark - Network of Technological Parks and Incubators, seeks to contribute to the integrated economic development of the region, by enhancing the agro-food, agro-industrial, oenology, viticulture, green economy, environmental valorisation and agro-environmental technologies areas. The company is associated with the Center of Excellence for Vine and Wine, a laboratory platform installed in the Regia Douro Park, dedicated to scientific and technological research, training and dissemination of knowledge in the wine, agri-food and environmental sectors.

If the core business of Bulas Family Estates continues to focus on the production and commercialization of Port and Douro wines, to which it recently associated wine tourism activities, the objective of sustainable and integrated development that it has pursued does not fail to consider, for the future nearby, other projects, namely the commercialization of other farm products. Currently, the production of olive oil, around 1,000 liters, is made in a mill located in the Industrial Zone of Sabrosa, with good

139. Garrafas armazenadas. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas.

193 prospects that olive oil, like vinegar, can accompany the commercialization of wines.

5.3. Bulas Wines: the prestige of a producer-bottler brand

Almost 40 years after the application for registration of the Quinta da Costa de Baixo brand, in 1981, and registration as producer-bottlers, it can be said that the path taken, simultaneously, with restraint, persistence and a sense of the future, has reached a new level, where the company sees its efforts recognized, with the dedication of its best wines in the international market.

With a good part of the vineyards and modernized production structures, the company today offers a portfolio of Doc Douro and Port wines that covers a diversity of categories. Annual production has been growing, along with sales growth. In 2016, it was around 100 thousand bottles (60% for Port wine and 40% for table wine). In this last sector, in addition to the current Doc Douro wines, whites, reds and rosés, the pa- lette extends to Reservas, whites and reds, and to Grandes Grandes, such as the Grande Reserva Touriga Nacional 2009 and the Grande Reserva Red 2010. In this case of Port wines, the variety is even wider, from Dry White and White, Ruby and Tawny Reserves to special categories, including Old Tawnies with age indication (the 10 Years Old - in Dry White, White and Tawny varieties - and the 20, 30 and 40 Years Old Tawny), Co- lheitas, Late Bottled Vintages (LBV) and Vintages of several vintage. In 2019, a special and limited edition of a very old Port wine, a precious wine cellar, was launched, aimed at more demanding connoisseurs, the Bulas Very Old Tawny.

About half of the wines sold by the company are destined for the national market and the rest for export to foreign markets, especially in Europe (Germany, Bel- gium, Denmark, Holland, France and England), but also in countries on other continents (Canada , USA, Japan, Korea, China). Bulas wines are currently sold in about 20 countries on 3 continents (Europe, America and Asia).

In recent years, the bet on the presentation of the company’s wines in prestigious national and world wine competitions and fairs, in addition to the success achieved in internationalization, has resulted in the recognition of the excellence of its va-

140. Gama de vinhos Doc Douro Bulas. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas. e 141.Gama de vinhos do Porto Bulas. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas. Página seguinte - 142. Gama de vinhos do Porto Bulas. Fotografia de Pedro Sarmento Costa. Col. Bulas. 194 195

143. A Bulas em Tokyo, Japã0. Fotografia de Isabel Vieira. Col. Bulas. 144. A Bulas em Paris, França. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas. 145. A Bulas em Torslunde Bygade, Dinamarca. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas.

198 199 146. A Bulas em Zaltbommel, Holanda. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas. 148. A Bulas em Nova Iorque, Estados Unidos da América. Fotografia de Isabel Vieira. Col. Bulas. 147. A Bulas em Berlim, Alemanha. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas.

200 201 149. A Bulas em Seul, Coreia do Sul. Fotografia de Isabel Vieira. Col. Bulas. 150. A Bulas na Suíça. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas. 151. A Bulas em Londres, Inglaterra. Fotografia de Joana Duarte. Col. Bulas.

202 203 rious wines. Altogether, since 2011, Bulas wines have won more than 130 medals and is projected for the future. Preserving this heritage and valuing it, from generation to other trophies in international competitions. Refer, just as an example, to the most generation, is not just a goal. It is a way of being in the world. In this sense, the com- important gold medals and distinctions won by Bulas wines in some of the most de- mitment of the company Bulas Family Estates to produce wines of excellence combines manding competitions. The contest Les Citadelles du Vin 2013 awarded a gold medal to with that of reinforcing the emotional connection of consumers to these wines and the the Bulas Grande Reserva Touriga Nacional 2009. And, in the next edition of the same history they can evoke. From the family, from the Douro region, from the art of wine. contest, the same award was achieved by Bulas Grande Reserva Red 2010. Among the Port wines, Bulas LBV 2011 received not only a medal but also the classification as «Best of Portugal» in the Mediterranean International Wine Competition Terravino 2015, in Israel, and, the following year, a gold medal in the International Wine Challenge 2016 and platinum in the Decanter World Wine Awards, year in which he also obtained high rankings in some of the most prestigious magazines of the world oenophilia, such as Wine & Spirits, which included him in the Year’s Best Port & Best Buy, with 93 points. In 2018, Bulas Port 10 Years Old Tawny won a gold medal and a special VINOFED trophy (best ranking among all Port wines) in the Les Citadelles du Vin 2018 contest. Bulas Port 20 Years Old Tawny achieved gold medals in the contests Les Citadelles du Vin 2014, Wines of Portugal 2015, International Wine Challenge 2015 and Sakura 2016 / Japan Women’s Wine Awards, in addition to high scores in Wine & Spirits 2016 magazines, in which it was considered «Year’s Best Port», with 91 points, and Wine En- thusiast Magazine, in which he obtained 93 points. Bulas Port 30 Years Old Tawny also won gold medals in Les Citadelles du Vin 2013 and Sakura 2017 / Japan Women’s Wine Awards. In the previous year, this prestigious Japanese contest had awarded the Bulas Port Vintage 2011 with double gold. The 2012 Vintage Bulas Port, 2013 and 2014 also won gold medals, respectively, at the International Wine Challenge 2015, at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2017 and at the International Wine Challenge 2018. In the 2019 edition of this last competition, two Bulas wines, the Porto Colheita 1996 and Very Old Tawny, were distinguished among the best in the world with gold medals and trophies.

It is not easy for a small family business, with a small team of employees, to penetrate the competitive international wine market, even though it has the trump card of quality. It requires a lot of dedication and perseverance. The family spirit, combined with the awareness of the exceptional value of the vineyard land, in the restric- ted map of cultural landscapes with the status of World Heritage, has deep roots and

204 205 Sources and Bibliography I also owe to Pedro Abrunhosa Pereira, who accompanied this work since the beginning, the notes of the archaeological exploration he carried out in the estates of Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira, in different periods throughout 2018, as well as the collection of much of the archival documentation not available on-line. Oral, archival and archaeological sources:

In preparing this text, I benefited from a variety of information provided by the owners of Quin- tas da Costa de Baixo and Foz Ceira, who also gave me copies of some documents related to the farms References: and the Bulas Cruz family. ALMEIDA, Carlos Alberto Brochado de (coordin.) - History of the Douro. I - Antiquity. Porto: GEHVID However, given that the Bulas Cruz family became the owner of these farms on relatively / Afrontamento, 2006. recent dates (in 1951 and 1990, respectively), it was necessary to undertake a lengthy search in several ALMEIDA, Pedro Tavares de; CLUNY, Isabel - «Melo, Lopo Vaz de Sampaio e». In MÓNICA, Maria Fi- archives, to constitute a documentary corpus that would allow us to understand the secular evolution of lomena (coord.) - Parliamentary Biographical Dictionary. Vol. 2. Lisbon: ICS / Assembly of the these farms , as well as the routes of the owning families. The remarkable work that has been done in se- Republic, 2005, p. 865-870. veral public archives, providing online access to digitizations of thousands of books and documents, has ALORNA, 2nd Marquis of (João de Almeida Portugal) - Junqueira’s arrests during the Marquis of Pom- been providential to us. Especially in the Vila Real District Archive, in particular in the Parish Records bal’s ministry, written right there by the Marquis of Alorna, one of his victims, published accor- and Notary Records, but also in other documentary funds, we were able to find immense documenta- ding to the original by José de Sousa Amado. Lisbon: Tip. de Silva, 1857. tion with interest in the history of these estates since the 17th century, which we have gathered with AZEVEDO, Correia de - Coat of arms and emblazoned houses of the Douro. Lamego: Lamego Graphics, information collected in other national archives (Torre do Tombo, Military Historical Archive), district 1974. (Porto, Braga and Lisbon) and municipal (Municipal of Porto, Alfredo Pimenta, from Guimarães, and BARRETO, António - Douro. Rio, People and Wine. Lisbon: Relógio d’Água, 2014. Sophia de Mello Breyner, from Vila Nova de Gaia), as well as in service files such as that of the Vila Real Land Registry, the Duriense Viticulture Commission and the Port Wine Institute (kept at the Douro BARROS, Alfredo de Vilanova de Vasconcelos Correia de - «Reconstitution of the European vine by grafting on American strains». Bulletin of the Directorate-General for Agriculture, nº 12. Lisbon: Museum), in the latter cases for more recent periods. But it was the Archive of the General Company of Imprensa Nacional, 1894, p. 937-1056. Agriculture of the Vineyards of Alto Douro, deposited in the Douro Museum, which provided us with the greatest source of information, especially about Quinta da Foz Ceira, which was under the mana- CAPELA, José Viriato (coord.) - The parishes of Vila Real district in the Parish Memories of 1758. Memo- gement of that Company for more than 120 years. . I must express a special thanks to the Directorate ries, History and Heritage. Braga: ed. author, 2006. and Services of the Douro Museum for the facilities granted in accessing this documentation and the CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - A Brasileira de Prazins [1882]. In CASTELO BRANCO, Camilo - Complete provision of digitized copies. Works. Vol. VIII. Porto: Lello & Irmão, 1988.

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