sign in sign up
<<
Home , Hammam, Latmus (town)

ITINERARY I

Sultan of the Coasts Aydogan* Demir, Yekta Demiralp, Rahmi H. Ünal

I.1 MI·LAS I.1.a Great (Great Cami) I.1.b Firuz Bey Mosque

I.2 BEÇI·N I.2.a Fortress I.2.b Büyük I.2.c Ahmet Gazi I.2.d Bey Hammam (option) I.2.e Kızıl Han

I.3 ÇAMI·ÇI· I.3.a Bafa Han (option)

I.4 BALAT I.4.a ·Ilyas Bey Complex

Education in the Madrasa

Ahmet Gazi Madrasa, Lion relief on the left spandrel of the main , 1375, Ahmet Gazi, Beçin. 67 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts

The , an important the area that was antique and found- power in the and in West and ed the Mentes¸e Emirate there (1280). North at the end of the 11th cen- They proceeded to co-operate with the tury, found itself unable to overcome the local seamen, that is, the Rums, in order devastating effects of the Fourth Crusade to develop themselves further by opening (1204). The Anatolian Seljuq Sultans, up to the seas. They controlled a part of who ruled over much of Anatolia, also fell for a short time until the arrival in defeat against Mongolian attacks of the Knights of St. John (1310). That (1243). Distressed by Mongolian oppres- Ahmet Gazi, who had a beautiful madrasa sion, hundreds of thousands of people constructed in Beçin (1375), saw himself under the command of Turcoman Beys deserving of the title “Sultan of the and some Seljuq administrators broke the Coasts” must be an expression of his aspi- resistance of the Byzantines, already ration to establish sovereignty over the Great Mosque, greatly weakened in West Anatolia, and seas. Having in hand the important trad- Entrance facade, 1378, settled in the region. ing port of Balat (), the Mentes¸e Ahmet Gazi, . Mente¸se Bey and his successors occupied Emirate guaranteed peaceful trade by entering into six agreements with the Venetians between the years 1331-1414. According to these agreements, Venetian merchants would be free to trade on Mente¸se land, allowed to settle in Balat, and able to worship at a church that would be named Saint Nicholas. The Venetian Consulate residing in Balat would act as the special trial authority on cases of interest to the Venetians; anoth- er Venetian would not be held responsi- ble and arrested in place of a Venetian merchant who was in debt because of business. In order to increase the volume of trade, the Mentes¸e Beys minted silver currency of illustrated Neapolitan type with Latin script, called “Gigliati”. The Mentes¸e Emirate’s economy, based upon bountiful plains and safe trade, created an important source for the country’s devel- opment as it aspired to a rich and pros- perous condition. Thanks to this healthy economy, monumental works were con- structed in Beçin, Milas, and Balat. Crossing the Çanakkale Straits (Dard- anelles), Ottoman forces conquered Thrace and progressed as far as in 68 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts

the 1350s. Then, once they had locked Silver coin minted in the Byzantines into and its sur- the name of Ahmet Gazi (1359-91), roundings, they proceeded to annex the Üstün Erek Collection. emirates in West Anatolia to Ottoman land. It has not yet been definitely deter- mined in which year the Aydın and Mentes¸e Emirates were conquered. How- ever, it is believed that Balat was captured in the years 1389-90. When Ahmet Gazi passed away in 1391, he was buried in the madrasa he had built in Beçin. The gover- nor of Mentes¸e –the region is still named after him– under the Ottoman Sultan Beyazid I, Hoca Firuz commissioned the construction of the Firuz Bey Mosque in Milas, the construction of which was completed on 29 November 1396. who decide to continue in the direction of In 1424 the Ottoman State eradicated the Selçuk, can stop for a rest at the town of Mentes¸e Emirate that had been re-estab- Ortaklar on the way and drop by one of its lished after the Battle of in 1402. many restaurants for a taste of the region’s After this date, towns like Beçin and Balat famous çöp ¸si¸s (a kebab made by grilling very in Mente¸se –an Ottoman sanjak small cubes of meat that have been strung on a (province) then– became less important small skewer over charcoal) and ayran (a drink and were eventually abandoned. made of yoghurt and water) or grilled sucuk (a A. D. very spicy sausage). If you are using public transport, you may not This itinerary begins in the town centre of be able to complete your visits in a single day. Milas in the ancient region of Caria and con- However, a good transport network exists tinues straight to the north until you reach between cities in . You can reach Beçin your destination in the ancient region of Ionia. from Milas by taking one of the dolmush Having looked around Milas town centre and minibuses (shared cabs or vans) that leave from at the works in Beçin Fortress, continue down the front of the Great Mosque, opposite the Muse- the main road heading north on D. 525. After um. To get to Balat by bus, you must first go to passing the rugged territory on the southern Söke and board a Balat or Didim dolmush at shore of Lake Bafa, you reach Söke Plain, the bus station. Bafa Han is located on the which was created by centuries of alluvium Milas-Söke main road; however, it is difficult accumulation from the Büyük Menderes River to visit this building unless you have your own (ancient Meandre River). Once you reach Söke, transport. Be especially careful driving on the you need to decide where to spend the night: If road that stretches along the Söke Plain, there you like, you can spend the night at the start- are tractors on the road loaded with cotton ing point of the next route, Selçuk, or, if you bales many of which are poorly lit and marked, prefer, you can spend the night at the more especially during harvest season (September- lively coastal town of Ku¸sada¸sı. Those visitors October). 69 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Milas

Great Mosque, west facade, 1378, Ahmet Gazi, Milas.

We do know, however, that the city I.1 MI·LAS regained its importance with the found- ing of the Mentes¸e Emirate. Known as Mylasa during Antiquity, Milas was the Carian capital in ancient times; however, (present day I.1.a Great Mosque (Ulu Cami) Bodrum) assumed this title during the . reign of Caria’s Persian Satrap Mausolus Hoca Bedrettin District (Mahallesi), Inönü (4th century BC). Due to the good rela- Avenue, Milas. Across the street from the Muse- tions he established with the Persians, um. Mausolus was able to rule without hin- drance. Upon his death, his wife had a Ruling between the years 1359-1391, the monumental grave (mausoleum) con- famous Mentes¸e Emir Ahmet Gazi structed for his burial: one of the Seven administered a section of the land that had Wonders of the World, only traces of been divided up amongst his siblings after whose foundations are visible today. his father’s death. Not only did Ahmet Mylasa continued to be important during Bey remain in power longer than any the due to the proxim- other Mentes¸e Bey, his period of reign ity of the religious centre Labranda (13 was also the Emirate’s most brilliant. A km. to the east), and later, during the few of the buildings that Ahmet Gazi had Roman period, it served as an adminis- constructed in Beçin, Milas, Balat, trative centre. Not very much is known Fethiye, and Çine, are still standing today. about Milas during the Byzantine period. Of these, the Milas Great Mosque has 70 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Milas

been completely restored in the last few years and is still open for worship. The walls of the mosque, which is locat- ed in a beautiful garden full of shrubs and trees, were built with bricks, and stones gathered from ancient buildings; the blocks with inscriptions and the decora- tive brickwork here and there are espe- cially noteworthy. Besides the main entrance in the centre of the north facade, there is also an entrance on both the east and west fronts. The stairs located to the right of the portal on the north facade were constructed to provide access to the roof for the chanting of the call to prayer. According to the inscription above the entrance, the mosque’s construction was completed in October 1378. Anoth- er inscription, written in Ottoman on the top part of the entrance on the west facade, is a charter dating from 1904. The variety seen in the building’s supports and roof shows that it under- went important renovations at various times in history: the rather massive but- tresses on all of the facades must be later additions. Both the plan and roof design of Milas Great Mosque continues the Seljuq tradi- I.1.b Firuz Bey Mosque Firuz Bey Mosque, tion. Like the Seljuq with basil- view from the ical plans, this mosque also has aisles that northwest, 1396, Firuz Pasha District (Mahallesi), Kı¸sla Avenue, Hoca Firuz, Milas. are perpendicular to the wall; while Milas. Continue north along the main street in front the aisles are covered with various types of Great Mosque and turn left at Kıs¸la Caddesi. of vaults, the bay in front of the is distinctly differentiated from the rest with This mosque is located in the middle of a a . The decorated spacious courtyard in the town centre. The with several rosettes was renovated in madrasa cells lined up along the courtyard’s 1879; however, the inscription of the for- western edge lost their special features as a mer minbar, dated January 1380, was result of renovation and the graves in the copied onto the new one. mosque courtyard were transferred to R. H. Ü. another cemetery in the 1930s. The build- 71 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Milas

ing, completed in 1396, recently underwent a complete renovation and is still open for worship. All the external facades are faced with blue-veined marble plates. The Turkish traveller Evliya Çelebi wrote that, “because of the blue-coloured marble, the Turks named the building the ‘Gök Camii’ (Sky Blue Mosque)”. The two rows of windows are very attractive: each window has a unique decorative composition. The usually located on one of the walls, on the end closest to the entrance side and ris- ing from a special base, is here, however, placed on top of the wall of the prayer hall. The portico in front, striking with its elaborate arches, lattice marble ba- lustrades with geometric decoration and an elegant portal, is five arched but three bayed, the central one of which is Firuz Bey Mosque, topped with a dome, while the side bays south facade, 1396, are covered with cradle vaults. The flo- Hoca Firuz, Milas. ral ornamentation seen around the inscription panel above the entrance and below the portico’s central bay are indi- cations of a break with the Seljuq tradi- tion. A variant of multifunctional mosques that served as a place of wor- ship as well as a guesthouse, the Firuz Bey Mosque has tabhanes at both its east and west ends, and the inner court between the tabhanes and the prayer hall are much smaller than normal. The elegant are covered with paint- ings of a later date; yet the mihrab catch- es the eye immediately with its carvings, and the plain marble minbar has a simple Solomon’s-knot (David’s-star) motif as dec- oration. An architect named Hassan Ibn Abdullah constructed the building, while a master craftsman named Musa Firuz Bey Mosque, Ibn Adil executed the ornamentation. mihrab, 1396, Hoca Firuz, Milas. R. H. Ü. 72 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Beçin

Beçin Fortress, general view from the west, 4th-14th century, Beçin.

· Milas is a lovely, lively town with a variety I.2 BEÇIN of things to offer the visitor: the Museum located in the old town has a small but good collection of works from antiquity; the old Built on top of a flat plateau on the edge town full of Ottoman houses with charming of the Milas Plain, and 200 m. above, the local-style chimneys; the Gümü¸skesen Tomb fortress rises majestically on a weird look- from Roman times; the local market on Tues- ing rocky outcrop, like a crown over the days… head of the modern town. The remains on The remains of the Mausoleum, one of the the top and outskirts of the steep slope to Seven Wonders of the World, is located in the north have given rise to speculation Bodrum (ancient Halicarnassus), 50 km. that this area was used as a necropolis dur- from Milas. The St. Peter’s Fortress, con- ing antiquity. The remains of foundations structed by the Knights of St. John using dating to the Hellenistic period to the stones from the mausoleum, is a worldwide east, along with the temple (4th century famous Underwater Archaeology Museum BC) at the southeast corner of the city today. Bodrum is a charming coastal town walls, are evidence that the fortress exist- that attracts both native and foreign tourists ed before the Turkish period. during the summer months. The town of Beçin was probably a small settlement when it passed into the hands of the Mentes¸e Beys towards the end of the 13th century. The small dimensions of the Beçin is situated to the south of Milas, just Byzantine chapel situated in the ruins of 4 km. from the city centre. You can reach Beçin the town supports this thesis. The famous by taking one of the Beçin dolmush minibuses Arab traveller Ibn Battuta, who visited the that leave from the front of the Great Mosque. city in the 1330s, lends further credence 73 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Beçin

temple which is thought to be dedicated to Zeus though it still has not been exam- ined in detail. The dilapidated houses inside the fortress, though today desert- ed, were used up until the 1980s and the oldest of them dates back 100 years at the most. The presence of a deteriorated 14th-century hammam makes one think that the settlement inside the fortress should be much older. R. H. Ü.

I.2.b Büyük Hammam Büyük hammam, to this theory when he writes that it was “a general view from the southwest, newly founded city with new buildings and The famous Turkish traveller Evliya 14th century, Beçin. masjids”. That the majority of what remains Çelebi, who visited Beçin in the middle of the ruined city dates back to the Turk- of the 17th century, reports that there was ish period, is proof that the city developed no hammam in Beçin. However, because rapidly during the period. Due to a rapid the ruins of five are visible in the increase in population and development, city today, it must be concluded that the the majority of the town’s buildings origi- baths were either in ruins or no longer nate in the 14th century. operating at the time of Evliya Çelebi’s R. H. Ü. visit. The Büyük Hammam, literally the Large Hammam, located in the grove to the I.2.a Fortress right of the road from the fortress to the Ahmet Gazi Madrasa, is one of the city’s The road turns right in front of the stairs most magnificent structures. Although going up to the fortress. Just in front is a much of its roof has caved in, great por- fountain, probably dating to the Mente¸se tions of the wall are still standing. The period, and a few steps up on the right is vaulted rectangular room to the north is a cistern that provided the water for the the water depot and on the outside can be fortress. In spite of the large number of seen the stokehole arch through which the water sources and wells in the ruined city fire was fed. The large hall to the east is the of Beçin itself, it was impossible for water soyunmalık. Excavations have revealed two to be brought to the fortress because it fountains, one in the soyunmalık, the other rises on a steep mass of stone 50 m. high- in the ılıklık. A particularly interesting er than the plateau upon which the city characteristic of this hammam is the exis- lies. tence of two doors that provide access to A section of the circular city walls, cur- the outside in the disrobing area, as almost rently in need of restoration, rest in the all baths have only one entrance to the dis- south upon the foundations of an ancient robing area so as to prevent heat loss. 74 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Beçin

Some Turkish baths were constructed as built in the year 1375. Ahmet Gazi’s use two separate, adjoining baths designated of the title “Sultan of the Coasts” proves for men and women. In these baths, the that efforts to establish sovereignty over entrance to the section set aside for the Aegean, which were increased during women opens onto a generally not too the time of the Mentes¸e rulers Mesut Bey busy side street so that women could com- and Orhan Bey, came to a successful con- fortably enter and exit the baths. There are clusion. The commercial activities and no hammams designated for women only, human traffic revived with the Aegean other than these double hammams. In case islands, Italy and southern France during of a single hammam only women would be this period, resulted in the first appear- allowed into the baths on one or two days ance of some foreign elements in Turkish of the week. Of the two entrances seen at architecture. Although it has all the com- the Büyük Hammam, the one on the east ponents of the traditional Seljuq portal, side opens onto the street, while on the there are important differences in detail west is a secondary entrance of small on the madrasa’s entrance. From up close, dimensions not visible from the street. On the numerous mouldings that frame the the days that the hammam was set aside for main niche of the entrance recall portals women, the main entrance looking onto of the Gothic Order. the street would probably have been closed The iwan of the main entrance is located so that women customers could enter and opposite the main iwan of the structure. exit through this door at the rear of the The madrasa’s eight chambers and two Büyük hammam, soyunmalık after building. open onto a courtyard of lateral rectangu- excavation and Passing through the small chamber to the lar shape. The porticoes that we are used to conservation, west is the ılıklık; to its north it adjoins seeing in most of the madrasa courtyards are 14th century, Beçin. the sıcaklık with three iwans forming a T- shape and in the corners are the halvets. The whole floor is covered with large, re- used marble blocks and the walls bear traces of . R. H. Ü.

I.2.c Ahmet Gazi Madrasa

This madrasa, commissioned by the famous Mente¸se Bey Ahmet Gazi, is the best preserved of all the buildings of the Mentes¸e Emirate to have survived until the present day. Restoration work, begun in recent years, still continues. According to the Arabic inscription above the entrance, “the Great Ruler, the Sultan of the Coasts Ahmet Gazi” had this madrasa 75 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Beçin

Ahmet Gazi madrasa, not present here. The two large chambers I.2.d Bey Hammam (option) Entrance facade, on either side of the main iwan are class- 1375, Ahmet Gazi, rooms. There is a fireplace in each of the The Bey Hammam is located 25 m.north Beçin. cells as well as in the classrooms. On the of a large two-storey mansion located 50 spandrels of the iwan’s main arch are two m. to the west of the madrasa; the man- lion figures which are very simply engraved sion probably belonged to one of the and each holding a banner in its hands; the city’s prominent people, perhaps even to lion on the left holds a banner that reads Mente¸se Bey. “Ahmed Gazi” in Arabic script. We know Likely to have been constructed at the that some animal figures like the “eagle” and beginning of the 15th century, Bey Ham- the “lion” were used as symbols of the sul- mam lies approximately 100 m. away from tan during the Seljuq period, too; howev- the Büyük Hammam, which is dated to the er, none of these were depicted carrying second half of the 14th century. The close banners in their hands as they do here. Of proximity of these two functionally identi- the two graves in the main iwan, the one cal structures leads one to believe that Bey closer to the courtyard belongs to Ahmet Hammam may have been a private bath- Gazi. It has been suggested that the grave house belonging to the nearby mansion. adjoining might belong to another Mentes¸e The ornamental remains, traces of which ruler, S¸ücaeddin Bey. The locals, who can still be seen on the plaster inside the believe that these are the graves of great structure, shows that the building’s religious people, make offerings and pray workmanship was very fine. Although when they visit the graves. the superstructure has completely col- R. H. Ü. lapsed, a considerable portion of the walls 76 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Beçin

is still standing. Excavations have revealed Anatolia, which had been in dispute with the foundations of the ruined disrobing one another in the 14th century, came area. under Ottoman rule in the early 15th cen- R. H. Ü. tury and the region was made safe. Thus, the first hans constructed in West Anato- I.2.e Kızıl Han lian towns like Bergama, Menemen and Tire, date to the 15th century. Directly across from Ahmet Gazi Madrasa The hans in West Anatolia are not magnifi- in the town centre stands Orhan Mosque cent and imposing like of the (1330-31), the largest one in Beçin. The Seljuq period. The two hans in Beçin, part- road continues left round Orhan Mosque, ly in good condition, are also plain, unim- past another fountain on the right, and posing structures. Kızıl Han is a two-storey then arrives at the Kızıl Han. structure; its walls are still standing today, One of the most important Silk routes although its superstructure has almost entire- stretching from Europe to China traversed ly collapsed. Its general layout resembles the Anatolia; since the end of the 12th century, Döger near Afyon. Made up of the Turks who ruled over Anatolia realised a single lateral rectangular area, the ground the material benefits brought about by floor is the stable where the pack animals transit trade and took measures in order to were tethered and where some of the trav- develop it. Caravanserais, constructed with ellers would have spent the night. Traces of this aim of development in mind, ensured a staircase that would have led to two rooms traders a safe place to spend the night, on the upper floor are still visible to the left while the market places established nearby of the entrance door; travellers spent the made trading possible. Trade activities sud- night in these upper rooms, too. denly came alive once the emirates in West R. H. Ü. Kızıl Han, south facade, 15th century, Beçin.

77 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Çamiçi

Bafa Han is on the way to Söke from Milas is made of a single rectangular area, and (D.525) and right on the border between its entrance looks onto the road that pass- Aydın - Mugla* provinces, and about 40 km. es in front of it. away from Milas. The cistern adjoining the han, believed to have been built in the 14th century, attracts more attention than the han’s sim- I.3 ÇAMI·ÇI· ple plan. A great number of cisterns exist in the rather rugged territory of Mug*la province’s rural area. Although not rich I.3.a Bafa Han (option) in natural water resources, the region receives the second highest rainfall in The caravan traffic between the Mentes¸e Turkey. These cisterns were constructed Emirate’s important city port of Balat to collect rainwater in the autumn, win- (Miletus) and the capital Beçin was quite ter, and spring months, to be used during heavy. Though this traffic slowly began to the summer months, when almost no rain decrease after the Emirate ceased to exist, falls. Furthermore, water was always it nevertheless continued for a very long needed by travellers and pack animals time. Thus the Turkish traveller Evliya spending the night at the han. Çelebi, who visited Balat in the 1670’s, In order to collect water for the cistern, recounts that active maritime trade was small channels were constructed on the taking place in the town. The Bafa Han is long sides of the han at the level of the located on the caravan route that stretch- eaves. Rainwater that fell on the roof of es from Balat to Milas and Beçin. The han the han was directed to the cylindrical cis-

Kızıl Han, a pendentive in the northern upper-storey room, 15th century, Beçin. 78 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Balat

Kızıl Han, covered section, 15th century, Beçin.

tern by means of these channels. The cis- Akköy for approximately 55 km. If you are using tern is in good enough condition to be public transport, go to Söke first and board a used even today, with the help of some dolmush minibus to Balat. I·lyas Bey Mosque simple renovation. Complex stands among the magnificent remains R. H. Ü. of buildings from the ancient world. The Milas-Söke main road (D.525) runs along the southern shore of Lake Bafa, a I.4 BALAT National Nature Park today. The steep stone- covered mountains (Bes¸ Parmak Mountains) that descend sharply on the lake’s northern The ancient city of Miletus, upon which shore offer an attractive view. If before reach- Balat was founded, was one of the most ing the lake you turn north from the village important cities of the Ionian region. In of Çamiçi and follow the shore of the lake, those days, the city was located on a you will arrive at the remains of the ancient peninsula in the area where Büyük city of -under-Latmus (today’s Menderes River (ancient Meandre) Kapıkırı). poured into the sea; however, today the city is nine km. from the sea because allu- Balat is the Turkish name of the ancient city of vium carried by the river has filled in the Miletus. To get from Milas to Miletus you must region. Laid out according to the famous take the main road D.525 in the direction of city planner Hippodamus’ grid plan, the 79 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Balat

I·lyas Bey Complex, city became rich with the colonies it At the beginning of the 1390s, the view of mosque and founded on the coasts of the Mediter- Mentes¸e Emirate was annexed to madrasa from the ranean and Black Seas and thereby became Ottoman territory. However, in the war north, 1404, I·lyas Bey, Balat. a chief site in the Ionian world. Although that ensued between Sultan Beyazid I and the city had once been home to the Tamerlane around Ankara in 1402, ·Ilyas famous philosophers Thales, Anaximenes, Bey from the Mentes¸e dynastic house and Anaximander (7th-5th century BC), participated as an ally of Tamerlane. and architects like Hippodamus (5th cen- Once Sultan Beyazid I was defeated and tury BC) and Isidorus (who built Ayasofya taken prisoner, Tamerlane reinstated ·Ilyas in Istanbul in the 6th century AD), it only Bey to the Mentes¸e throne, as he did managed to preserve its importance up to with the other rulers who assisted him. the Roman period. After that it began to The capital of the re-established Mente¸se lose its popularity, once trade came to a Emirate was transferred from Beçin to halt as its harbours filled up with alluvium Balat. The new capital became a market and became swamps. From this point on, site where goods like saffron, sesame, it searched in vain for its magnificent days honey, beeswax, and rugs were sold, of the past. During the Byzantine period, especially during the time of the Mentes¸e a fortress was constructed on the hilltop Emirate. Wheat was also exported from where the theatre was located. In fact, the here to and Rhodes during this name Balat comes from the Turkish inter- period. By the 19th century, however, the pretation of the Greek name “Palatia” city was in a state of complete abandon- meaning palace. ment. 80 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Balat

The structure can be reached either by pro- the inner courtyard. A tower-like struc- ceeding along the ruins of the ancient city of ture to the west of the outer courtyard is Miletus (by passing through Faustina Baths), hidden under the large tree behind the or by taking the main road leading from the wall. Approaching the entrance to the ticket office to Balat village, and then fol- inner courtyard, the section seen on the lowing the road that turns left approximate- left, without a window, topped with a ly 200 m. later. It is necessary for visitors dome is the dershane of the madrasa; the travelling by car to park at the car park next large dome in the distance belongs to the to the ticket office. mosque.

· I.4.a I·lyas Bey Complex Ilyas Bey Mosque

The two separate paths that lead from the Although not of any special importance main road and Faustina Baths join up by architecturally, the fine marble work- the cemetery to the west of the hammam. manship and rich ornamentation of the · Going through an opening in the modern Ilyas Bey Mosque is especially attractive. walls one reaches the outer courtyard. The walls are faced on the outside with Past the graves is the entrance to the inner marble from the ruins of Miletus; the courtyard shared by the mosque and the marble work on the facade is similar to madrasa. The main entrance of the com- that seen in Milas Firuz Bey Mosque or plex seems to be the gate structure on the the Selçuk ·Isa Bey Mosque, as well as in east, which is connected via a path to contemporary structures in neighbouring another gate in the northeast corner of towns. Although this use of marble was I·lyas Bey Hammam, detail from the plaster decoration in the halvet, early 15th century, I·lyas Bey, Balat.

81 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Balat

the traditional designs of the Seljuq peri- od that continued partially during the Emirates period. Two arches of the three- arched doorway are closed with latticed marble banisters. The arches have elabo- rate marble work. According to the Ara- bic inscription located on the central arch, ·Ilyas Ibn Mehmed of the Mentes¸eo- g*ulları Emirate commissioned the build- ing, which was completed around the middle of the year 1404. Walls over two 2 m. thick hold up the large, 14 m. diameter dome that covers a square prayer hall. The ornamentation seen here on the ceilings of the lower row of windows, consisting bands of calligra- phy along with colourful inlaid stones, is present in very few structures. The mar- ble mihrab (with a height of over 7 m. and a width of over 5 m.) also has superb stonework. The minaret, which would have been located above the northeast corner and reached via stairs set inside the wall, no longer exists.

I·lyas Bey Madrasa

The madrasa cells surrounding the mosque courtyard on the east, west, and north I·lyas Bey Hammam, almost certainly due to the abundance of sides are of various dimensions. The sıcaklık, early 15th chambers’ lack of orderly planning is in · available marble from ancient ruins in the century, Ilyas Bey, vicinity it may also be seen as a response contradiction to the extremely careful Balat. to the architectural fashion of the period, workmanship of the mosque; therefore, a style we see in Italy, as well. On the the madrasa must have been constructed eastern, western and southern fronts are after the mosque. The small domed area four windows arranged in two rows; across from the mosque is the dershane. among the rich decorations on these win- Excavations conducted over the past sev- dow frames, the colourful stone inlay eral years have revealed the foundations work is especially worth noting. of another madrasa adjoining the chambers The design of the monumental entrance at the west wing of the courtyard. This on the northern facade is different from second madrasa is of an even later date. 82 ITINERARY I Sultan of the Coasts Balat

Hammam very small dimensions was going to be insufficient, a second, larger bath must It is generally believed that ·Ilyas Bey also have been constructed right next to it. commissioned the two hammams north of After the construction of the mosque was the mosque. It is not known for certain complete, the newly built Büyük Ham- why two separate hammams with a 2 m. mam was supposedly set aside for men and wide passageway in between were built the small one for women. In the Büyük right next to each other. In written Hammam, the rectangular vaulted cham- sources, there are entries relating to the ber on the west is the water tank. The construction of hammams, which indicate entrance is to the northeast into the soyun- that they would be built first to allow malık, which is now in ruins. Going workers involved in the construction of the through a small room in the northeast cor- mosque to bathe when necessary. Accord- ner, one reaches a small chamber ing to Islamic tradition, Muslims are –ılıklık– connected to another small cham- required to wash their bodies completely ber to the south –maybe the tra¸slık– and a and perform ablutions after sexual inter- very small one to the north adjoining the course because a Muslim who goes onto passageway. The large hall to the west is the streets without having washed after the sıcaklık with a T-shaped main section sexual intercourse is believed to have com- and two halvets in the corners. There are mitted a sin. Thus, it is thought that the traces of beautiful plaster decoration on the smaller of the two baths here was con- walls formed by pressing moulds onto the structed for the use of the workers. How- wet plaster. ever, once it was realised that this bath of R. H. Ü.

83 EDUCATION IN THE MADRASA

Yekta Demiralp

Madrasa students, were educational institutions in the middle of each side and student Codex Vindobonensis, 8626, Österreichisches that first appeared in Islamic countries. cells located in between. This layout also Nationalbibliothek, Before madrasas, mosques were used as influenced the plans of madrasas con- Vienna. schools only outside the hours of worship structed in Anatolia: a courtyard, iwan, and the education consisted solely of mak- winter dershane and student cells are ing students memorise the Koran and giv- found in all of the madrasas constructed in ing them religious information. In later this period that have survived up to the times, it was considered inappropriate for present day. In addition to these architec- mosques, which were used as places of tural elements, some madrasas also have worship, to be simultaneously used as elements like masjids, türbes, fountains, schools, and so hodjas began giving and . Not all of the madrasas con- lessons in their homes. structed during the Anatolian Emirates The earliest traces of buildings known as and especially the Ottoman periods have madrasas Date to the 10th century and are the same plan layout. found in the Khorasan and Transoxiana. Madrasas built by wealthy people and high These buildings consisted of rooms lined state officials were not bound to the state; up around an internal courtyard: an iwan therefore, the state did not meet the 84 expenses for feeding students or other to the waqf board of trustees. Education expenses such as employee salaries and in various fields was given in the madrasas, the structure’s maintenance and repair which were rated according to the wage work. For this reason, those who had the of the müderris. madrasas built would devote to their Between 20 to 40 students were educat- madrasas a part of their properties that ed in a single madrasa. However, madrasas regularly brought in income so that the constructed by the Ottoman sultans madrasa’s expenses could be met after would accept as many students as there their death as well. As a result, each were student cells. In addition to meeting madrasa was a waqf institution. all their expenses, students were also The lessons taught, the periods when given a small allowance. school was in session, the hours of daily Y. D. lessons, and holidays differed from one madrasa to another. A madrasa was named Located 20 km. to the south of Balat, the according to the particular type of edu- Apollo Temple (Didim) still preserves cation given there: for example, madrasas its magnificence in spite of being largely in in which the sayings of the prophet were ruins today. The Altınkum beach is just 5 km. taught were called dDarülhadis; those in from the temple. which people were made to memorise 16 km. north of Balat, on the Balat-Söke the Koran were called Darülhuffaz; and main road, the ancient city of charms those where medicine was taught were its visitors with its magnificent location. called Darüttıb. Lessons were taught by Another corner of the region worth visiting is teachers called müderris and in every the Dilek Peninsula National Park which madrasa, there was one or more muid that functions as a plant and animal reserve and helped the students and made them is located 30 km. south of Ku¸sadası. Howev- repeat the lessons given by the müderris. er, the Büyük Menderes River Delta, part of Every madrasa had a doorman, a cleaning the National Park, can be visited by turning person, a librarian, and a “pointillist” who north at the village of Tuzburgazı; also the checked the attendance of the madrasa old village of Dog*anbey will give a taste of staff and students and reported absentees Aegean and Mediterranean cultures.

85