The Enchanting North

The Enchant ing N o rt h

. S Flet che r J .

LONDON EVELEIGH NASH 1908

Co nte nts .

IN YORKS HIRE .

THE THREE MINSTER TOWNS

Y ORK .

i RI ON . (i . ) P VE RLE Y BE .

TH RIVER URE AND ENS II . E W LEYDALE

SWALEDALE AND RIC HMOND

THE NIDD AND NIDDERDALE

THE WHARFE AND WHARFEDALE

ROUND ABOUT ’ HELMSLEY AND PICKERING

i ROU N D A OU T HE L S LE Y . ( . ) B M

ii . N ORTH OF PICKE RIN G ( ) .

ROM HIRSK TO THE IVER Es x BY THE F T R , HAMBLETON AND CLEVELAND HILLS

THE IVER ERWENT VIII . R D

IX THE ORKSHIRE OAST . Y C

T E E E WEA LE A N D T HE SDAL , RDA ,

D U RHA M COA ST .

ALONG THE TEES M i . FRO IDDLES ROU GH To DA N G N ( ) M B RLI TO .

ii . ROU N D AB OU T GRETA RIDGE ( ) B .

iii . ROU N D A OU T A RN A RD ASTLE ( ) B B C . i v RO A RN A ( . ) F M B RD CAS TLE TO THE WE ST O RLAN D ORD E R M B .

THE EA F - - II . W R ROM CHESTER LE STREET TO ITS 143 SOURCE

I I HE UR I . T D HAM COAST E . viii . CONT NTS

IN WESTMORLA N D A N D CU MB ERLA N D .

Ch ap ter. HE IVER EDEN AND I . T R

IVE TH N II . THE R R IR I G

THE HARM F THE ENGL SH AKE III . C O I L S

IN N ORTHUMB ERLA N D .

THE RIVER

THE ORTHUM E II . N B RLAND COAST

THE HEVI T A III . C O S ND THE TWEED

ORDNANCE MAP OF THE NORTHERN COUNTIES End of Book L f I ist O llustrations .

IN COLOU R.

R F OM OIL PAIN TINGS .

FOU N TA INS AB EY RI ON B , P AYS GARTH FALLS

RI VE R ES K

GO ATHLA N D SCARBOROU GH VIE W FROM RAVE NS CA R

’ ROBIN HOOD S BAY BA RN A RD CAS TLE KS S HIE LDS MA RS D E N ROC , OUTH S ULLS WATE R

TYN EDALE —ME ETIN G OF THE WATE RS

DILSTON AS TLE ORB RIDGE C , C

WATE R F ROM COLOURS .

YORE

RI CH ON D YORIIS HI RE M , BEMPTON CLIF FS CLIFFS AT FILEY

HIGH FORCE TE ESD ALE , BA HB OROU GH CAS TLE

P M PE N A N D IN K RO SKETCH ES .

YORE MIN S TER RI PON CATHE DRA L BEVE RLEY MIN STE R BOLTON CAS TLE HA RD RAW SCAU R

HELHS LEY ASTLE RIEVAU Lx AB EY AND YLA N D AB EY C , B , B B SELBY ABBEY DAI RY RID GE ROHEB Y B , H IG FO RCE TE ES D A LE H , DU RHA M CATHED RA L x . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS .

K — n nued PEN AND IN SKETCHES Co ti .

N A WO RTH AS TLE LAN E RCOST P RIO RY A ND A RLIS LE C , , C CATHED RA L WARE WORTH CASTLE

F ROM PHOTOG RAPH S .

VIEWS YORE

WE N SLE YDALE

SWA LE DALE

HA RROGATE AN D N IDDE RDALE

ILE LEY OLTON A EY , B BB HE L S LEY PIC HE RIN G M ,

LASTI N GHA SHA N DY HA LL M ,

RIDLIN GTON FLA OROU GH AN D FILEY B , MB , SCARBOROU GH WHITBY

SA LT U RN STA ITHES A N D SA NDS EN D B , ,

TE ES DA LE

WE A RDA LE

TY N E O UTH U LLE RCOA TS A N D WHITLE Y M , C , TYN E DALE

A LN OU TH A LN W IC H M ,

FA RN E IS LA N DS

BE RWICK

Th e seventy Vi ews included in the above pho t ographi c pi ct ures ar each n um ered co nsecut i vel t he owners Of t h e ne ati ves ein e b y, g b g

2 6 N OS . I . . 4 » S! a 9 » I o I I I 1 I 6 1 The Photoch ro m Co Ltd , , 3 , 5 , , 7 , 8 I 2 I 2 2 and 6 Hosi er Lane I , 9 , , 3 , 3 , 34 , 35 3 , ,

8 1 o Sno w Hi ll Lo ndon E C . 3 , 4 , 4 5 , 4 7 , s , 5 4 , , ,

6 s 60 6 1 . 5 5 0 $ 0 5 7 : s a ,

8 12 I 2 N os . 3 , 7 , , 4 , 4 ,

2 26 1 6 A . H . Ro inson 5 , , 3 , 33, 35 , 3 , b , 0 2 Derwen t Ho us 37 . 39 . 4 . 4 . 4 3. 44 . e . 6 8 1 2 Wes t A ton 4 , 4 , 49 , 5 , 5 , 59 , y , 2 6 6 6 66 6 York e 6 , 3 , 4 , 5 , , 7 , . 8 0 6 , 69 , 7

W H s 6 M n k N os . 2 28 . . a e o k ate Yor 7 , y , 7 , g , .

H s n . od o leckh eaton J g , C .

N o 20 . Shutt leworth Ilk le . . , y

R IN YO KS HI RE .

CHAPTER I .

The Thre e Minste r Towns .

— I. YORK .

HERE are few people who realise what York means

En lan . n on is rea and in es er is to g d Lo d g t , W ch t rea but or is at leas as in eres in as the i es rea g t , Y k t t t g w d p d ci On the ames and more SO an the i i ver ty Th , th c ty wh ch o I n th un ousan r n looks the tchi . Of e h dred th d Yo kshi re me who live in modern York ; of the tens Of thousands of r s i remen m in r on mar e a s i Yo k h who co e to Yo k k t d y , fa r a s and the li e the vas number Of s ran er d y , k ; of t t g s as s r u r s a in for an our or two a da who p th o gh Yo k, t y g h , y or so man are ere e er re e a e are , how y th who v fl ct th t th y treading the soil whereon was once set up the centre - point Of the man Em ire man men st an in on e Ro p How y , d g th city walls and looking across this most fascinating Of Engli sh THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

i es realise a i hin the m ass se walls m re c ti , th t w t co p of tho o history has been made than in any other town in the three — kingdoms ex cept London There is only one phrase in whi ch one may without ex travagance sum up York and its —“ ” charms Thi s is another Rome !

s an u n the alls r w e er in the earl To t d po w of Yo k, h th y m rni n suns ine or en the sha s are allin u n o g h , wh dow f g po red fs and re a les is li e hr u at an ra e rOo g y g b , to v t o gh y t

t sa ears . ere a r in le en a ran s n two hou nd y H , cco d g to g d, g d o a i in Of srael un e a ci some ere a u of D v d, K g I , fo d d ty wh bo t h ime si ma ers li le if a t e t of the ege of Troy . It tt tt th t be true or not true ; certain it is that the history of York from the time of the comi ng of the Romans is full Of

Emperor assumed the purple robe whi ch denoted his state a li s i i l i i here St . P u nu la d the foundat on of the litt e Chr st an church which was gradually trans formed into the great i M ns ter. Here William the Conqueror built that terrible Norman keep whi ch frowned over all the lan d betwee n

r and . ere enr re ei e the Humbe Tees H H y II . c v d homage of re E William the Lion of Scotlan d . He dward III . married

i n ere E war . was r ne a Phili ppa of Ha ault . H d d IV c ow d fter e he the great fight at Hex ham . H re fled t Royalis t Army a er the us aflai r at ars n r. ere in a ft disastro M to Moo H ,

small am er in the uil all harles . was s l th ch b G dh , C I o d to e

Scots for two hundred thousand pounds . There is scarcely a yard of land in York that i s not associated with some

is ri e en . The s rea men are in e e h to c v t gho ts of g t v ry street .

NO man should foster a delusion that he can see and r m e n in a wee a n en in a r. k ow Yo k k, o th, v yea She is a ‘ mis ress has al a s some new eau reveal s t who w y b ty to , ome sur e M n a prising favour to giv . e who h ve known and loved York for a lifetime go back to her with increased ardour and dev ti n at the wen iet the fif ie the n o o t t h, t th, hu dredth isi i m in i n i v t. There s always so eth g to f d n her which has not een un e re—s me uain bit ar i b fo d b fo o q t of ch tecture ,

YORK.

n inscri ption. And if there is nothi g else there is the atm s ere r hi h is as i s in t as a ome o ph of Yo k , w c d t c th t of R , or an er ur or nen. C t b y, Ro

n in r one na rall rns first to th r a O ce Yo k, tu y tu e g e t

Mins er ur . er se ree wers are seen t Ch ch of St Pet , who th to for miles and miles over the level land which li es outside i In vi i e li e t i is the c ty. ew of t on cares ttl o know that t — so many hundred feet in length or height or breadth one i s only concerned with it as a poem in stone . If one could but have seen it in the medie val ages when its many altars

e elle ali es and illumina e missals a ulous val e j w d ch c t d of f b u , en it was s re i reli s the sain s en e wh to d w th c of t , wh very thing was a marvel of colour and grandeur ! But it has its ran eur -da in the eau its archi te ture h g d to y b ty of c , t e erfecti n its nes the aste o r i n na p o of li , ch pr po t o of ve and ranse an i i e m st Of our rea E t pts d cho r. L k o g t nglish

as the Five Sisters in the north transept ; the wonderful a ter use m s eautiful all ha ter uses in Ch p Ho , o t b of c p ho England ; the great Eas t window ; the Sax on work in the cr i in i : ypt . But ts chi ef beauty lies ts majes ty other a he ral ur es in En lan ma be m re ictures c t d ch ch g d y o p que , or m re in eres tin rom is ri asso iati n but none fill o t g f h to c c o , the senses with such an impression of power and grandeur as does thi s of York.

ni rea hin s see in There is a ple tude of g t t g to York. one gets right back to the days when the Roman Empire e n was governed from the other Rom o the Ouse . Here is the Multangular Tower which formed the south-wes t a n i ere arran e in the useum ngle of the Roma c ty ; h , g d M and the s i ium is a n er ul llecti n man Ho p t , wo d f co o of Ro n an i i In es e roun s are the ins relics a d t quit es . th g d , too, ru 6 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

‘ Mar 9 e on Of the m s im rtan m nas i of St . y Abb y, e o t po t o t c houses in Yorkshire (there were only two north of the — Trent which sent a mitred Abbot to Parliament this was one and a el was the er and one the m s , th t of S by oth ) , of o t us e i n dis tinguished in res pect of archi tectural beauty. J t b h d it is a lus er uil in s now use as a me for the c t of b d g , d ho blind i in its da was one f the m s im r an , wh ch y O o t po t t laces in En lan inasmu as it use the am us p g d, ch ho d f o n for e ime el the ill Cou cil of the North. Here som t dw t a e mas en rt Earl Strafi ord ere in 16 f t d Tho W two h, of ; h 39 rwa is a Charles I . was lodged ; over the doo y to th d y ’ r fl rd a -Of- a en St a o s co t arms m y be se .

rk like me sses ses a l num er ur es Yo , Ro , po good y b of ch ch , and many of them are of peculiar interest to people who in th ime are terested in arche ology and archi tecture . At e t of the Reformation there were over forty parish churches in the i re are now a al a num er but c ty ; the bout h f th t b , i ael most of them are very Old and Of great interest . St. M ch le Belfrey contains a very fine monument to Robert

' and Priscilla Squi re ; Holy Tri nity is remarkable for its stained glass ; where Christ Church now stands stood the ’

firs is ian e r uil in r . . ar are s t Chr t church ve b t Yo k St M g t , in Walm ate is remar a le for its fine rman r a g , k b No doo w y, wherein is figured the twelve signs of the Zodi ac ; in ’ All ain s r ree is a am us win illus ra in S t , No th St t, f o dow t t g the events of the fifteen days immediately preceding the ’

ast u . In the lan ern All ain s in the L J dgment t of S t , a emen e use in Ol a an a li ere P v t , th y d d d ys to h g ght wh by belated travellers journeying through the Forest of Galtres In on the northward could find their way to the City . nearly all the churches of York there is very fine stained lass and in an re ar O e s mu g , m y of them the e bj ct of ch interest

Where the ori ginal Bri tish city was undoubtedly situate and where Willi am the Conqueror afterwards built his great ee stan s r as le a e er ene us ile uil in s k p d Yo k C t , h t og o p of b d g ,

8 THE ENCHANTING NORTH.

’ the m s n le ar hi is Cliflord s er uil o t otab p t of w ch Tow , b t

i was good many historic as sociat ons cli ng. It the scene of th e the s in 1 1 and was efen e th e massacr of Jew 90, d d d by e R alis s un er ran is Clifiord Earl Of um erlan urin oy t d F c , C b d, d g t W r F x e aker was im i one he i il r. ere e o th u r s C v a H Geo g , Q , p d for some time ; in the court close by Eugene Aram made his famous speech in his own defence when arraigned for the murder of Daniel Clarke ; somewhere within the precincts al er Calverl he ero Of The Yorkshi re Tra ed un er W t y, t h g y, d e a went the punishment Of pei ne forte et dare . Th re is collection Of relics here whi ch may interest folk who care to see such gruesome things as the fetters whi ch confined Dick ’ ur in s le s and the m ns er kni e and r i ere T p g , o t f fo k wh ch w used to quarter the re bels who were hanged here aft er the risin 1 g in 745 . Travellers who love Old houses and Old things will find as much that savours Of long- dead days in York as in i Ches ter or Warw ck. Round about the Shambles there are houses whi ch seem impelled by a des i re to fall Upon each — other from Opposite sides of the way from their topmost windows one can shake hands with a neighbour who lives a nific n s e imen a fine ol across the street . A m g e t p c of d ’

x is s in . illiam s lle e at the eas timbered house e t St W Co g , t end Of the Minster it was originally the house of the ri s an is now in r ess res ra i n for a chantry p es t , d p oc of to t o Th i a n mber roof n t s . s fine o e ti similar purpo e ere p i S . ’ n n s os i al and s me n e r oak illars i n the A tho y H p t , o ot wo thy p B i n Of an i in Guildhall. ut the ev de ces t quity York are

. erha s one e s the es i ea em the everywhere P p g t b t d of th , ’ the Old ci s rea a e in an erin roun fulles t sense of ty g t g , w d g d e a ls and in ex aminin the ars or a es ere n in th w l g B , g t , wh o Ol a s e use set the ea s rai rs or the d d y th y d to h d of t to , of

an on i es . in eri n on the alls Of r at the v quished, p k L g g w Yo k ni en the sun has set and the re mis s e in ght, wh g y t b g to s rr un i n lan it nee s li le ima ina i n enwrap the u o d g d, d tt g t o to RIPON . 9

conjure up some image of the days when the gates were fast s u at sun n and arme men e a i n the now h t dow , d k pt w tch empty guard rooms whi ch overlooked the roads .

— II . RI PON .

i n is a Ci ull is ri al asso ia ions Like York, R po ty f of h to c c t k r a ain m s ose asso ia i ns cen re r un the li e Yo k, g , o t of th c t o t o d n i s n and i n is a a c ent Min ter. Betwee York R po there strong bond Of afi nity in the fact that Ripon Owes everything to e i the Archbishops of York. The arlier Archb shops made Ripon their place of res idence until Walter de Gray acquired lan a is r e and uil a ala t re and e d t B hoptho p b t p ce he , th y showered many favours on the picturesquely situated little n f h re tow which overlooks the valley O t e U . Between the

since 1836 has been the cathedral of the modern diocese of Ripon was built by the men who at the same time were i th rea er ur a ur e build ng e g t ch ch t York. Fo of t h se men — W were re eminen in the r St . ilfri th in the se n p t wo k ve th, r is mas in the ele en r is er in e A chb hop Tho v th, A chb hop Rog th wel rc is al er de ra in the e n t fth, A hb hop W t G y thirt e th W en uries . is sai a . ilfri th a r c t It d th t St , p elate whose areer was infini e arie was finall uri e at i n c of t v ty, y b d R po , a er man ears ex ile on the n inen but ere is no ft y y of Co t t, th i trace of his place of sepulture. He s still the patron saint the i and a eas in hi s n ur is el on the a urda of c ty, f t ho o h d S t y a er Ia mmas en hi s sm is arried r un the i nci ft , wh gy c o d pr pal s r i n t eets in proces s o .

i e man an er the rea C ur es the rt L k y oth of g t h ch of No h,

or in the is rian illi am Malmes ur wn Acc d g to h to W of b y, to and Mi nster were so completely des troyed by the Danes in the ninth century that there was nothing but ashes and n fragments to show where they stood . Lela d says that when he Visited Ripon i n the six teenth century it was a

RIPON . 11

ra elli n in the or and assin t r u Ri n was t v g to N th p g h o gh po , l so fi led with compassion at what he saw that he caused the r o i But e as it now s an s chu ch t be rebult. th Minster t d , and as it was completed soon after the beginning Of the i x een en r is un ou te l the r i Of the la urs s t th c tu y , d b d y f u t bo of is e r hbisho er Archbishop Roger and Archb hop d G ay. Arc p Rog a e lar e sums out his own urs e ar s its s and g v g of p tow d co t, the rea amili es Of the nei ur the Markenfields g t f ghbo hood, , ries r ns Kitchenmans Blacket s Aislabies and Mallo , No to , , , As it was many others were very generous in thei r help. ri inall fini s e the ree o ers ere e s ires o g y h d, th t w w topp d by p , or rami as elan alls em but the en re one was py L d c th , c t lown o n a rea s orm i n 1660 and se at the b d w by g t t , tho n s o wes t e d were oon afterwards rem ved .

The arc i e ure i n i ns er is as e e ri l h t ct of R po M t , D fo ght y es ri e it nearl two un re ears a o s r n and d c b d y h d d y g , t o g ” i ere is li le ornamen a i n in the s eme Of the pla n . Th tt t t o ch x eri r and the es ron is ssi l the lai nes ie e e t o , w t f t po b y p t p c of in e i ua i work of its sort the country . But th s t t on and — general efi ect of the Church are magnificent s tandi ng upon an eminence overlooki ng the Ure and its smaller tri butary the ell it rms an im ressi e landmar i ma be Sk , fo p v k wh ch y

seen for miles . ere is li le in eres in the in eri Th tt of t t t or, i i arl in i n I wh ch is s ngul y lack g n notable mo uments . n the south ai sle there is an altar-tomb whereon are depicted the fi n li is to gures of a man a d a on . Thi s said be the grave of an Iris h pri nce who di ed in Ri pon on his way back from the l an and was a en e a li n i Ho y L d, who tt d d by o wh ch ollo e him ai a o ere s e f w d as f thfully as d g. Th is ome anci nt s ai ne lass ere and ere and s me the old r t d g h th , o of woodwo k s ill remai ns i n o e m numen Of he ar t the ch ir. Th o ts t M ken fiel an the ds d Blackets are of interest . But great feature ’ the ur is t m l n il ri of ch ch he s al crypt k own as St . W f d s ” eedle the mas nr of i c i so mar e l man in N , o y wh h s k d y Ro character that there can be li ttle doubt that it was built by E 12 THE NCHANTING NORTH .

Wil rith rou a i him rom the workmen whom St. f b ght b ck w th f i n rr au ri ies a ree a Italy n the seventh ce tury. Ma y tho t g th t

ex is in in r shi re . has e er an er as s ia i n t g Yo k It , how v , oth oc t o

- rea if s me a e uliar in eres . the n rt eas of g t , o wh t p c , t t At o h t i a arr assa e or enin r hi corner s n ow p g op g th ough w ch , a c r i Old ri ers li e am en and uller men c o d ng to w t k C d F , wo

ul s ueeze t r u ell and if not e ere co d q h o gh, w good ; , th y w locked as an e u n it not a uall c n emne . e k c po , ct y o d d Th y i eir s r ar s uller ul not pr cked th credit , em k F , who co d ’ B t ere ar a thread the Needle . u th e other theori es dvanced Of O enin i sa as to the real purposes this p g. Some wr ters y that it was used for the ex hibition of relics ; others as a lamp-niche ; others as a means Of communication with the h stai rcase leading to t e choir.

In the old a s Ri n ssesse ri ile es san tuar d y po po d p v g of c y, the sanctuary ex tended a mile in all directions from the i ns er and ere marke ei cr sses set u at difi erent M t , w d by ght o , p l — f es e one is s ill in ex i s en e n a ruinous p aces o th , t t c (though i ar us si e the ci i condition) at Sh ow, j t out d ty . The r ght of

’ by a miscreant who had not only stolen his neighbour s

ul be muc e er i Ripon sho d h b tt known than it s. People l e uie u e Old in s a i tures ue own who ov q t d , th g , p c q t and

au i surr un in s ul reer an ol - r li e be t ful o d g , wo d p f d wo ld city k is the us le and aie of arr a e lose if e th to b t g ty H og t , c by, th y n i hi n l be k ew of t . Not g cou d more peaceful or mind refreshing than an evening in and about the quaint market lace i n or in the re in s f the a al or p of R po , p c ct O C thedr , am n s the an ien stree s and And o g t c t t houses near the Skell. there are many thi ngs to see i n and around Ripon bes ides Mins er— ere are the the s i al of . a a alene t th Ho p t St M ry M gd , ri i nall an as lum for le rs the ais n ieu un ed o g y y pe ; M o D , fo d E 1 BEV RLEY . 3 by the great Neville family ; the tumulus known as Ailey

ill and the reat i r ular ear r s at l is all. ere H , g c c thwo k B o H H , is e u one the m s an i en us ms in En lan too , k pt p of o t c t c to g d — ’ the blowing Of a horn every night at ni ne 0 clock Until the begin ning of the seventeenth century the principal r Ri n was alle the akeman a hman and bu gess of po c d W (w tc ) , one of his duti es was to set a watch every night by blowing

I now ex isted for nearly two thousand years . n the Old days the Wakeman recei ved in recompense for his duties an annual sum of fourpence from all householders who had two i s and w nce r m se who doors to the r dwelling , of t ope f o tho

- l in is now erforme a had but one . The horn b ow g p d by r i n Ofi cial eli ers t ree las s at the mar e Corpo at o , who d v h b t k t ’ r and e at the a r s use er the r n c oss thre M yo ho , ov f o t of whi ch is set forth in large characters the legend Ex cept ye ee e Ci t e Wakeman waheth i n vai And Lorde K t y y y n . in i n it has a urt er s urce Of a an a e to R po , f h o dv t g people i n search of health in the pres ence of a recently-opened Sp a u the a ers Of i are re u e a (sulph r) , w t wh ch p t d to be s efi cacious

- a its e er n n ri al arro e . s those of b tt k ow v , H gat

— III . BEVE RLEY.

as s ree rea a ron s — Yorkshi re bo t of th g t p t saint St . William W Of i of r . ilfrith n and . n Of everle Yo k, St R po , St Joh B y , all Of whom in their time were Archbishops of the northern

To . n metropolitan see. St Joh of Beverley Yorkshirernen owe the incomparable and beautiful Minster which is rea l r the Eas certainly the g t g o y of t Riding. Beverley Minster may j ustly be sai d to be unique amongst English an nsi re it e churches . Freem co de d th equal of ei ther York or i n i man in his les R po ; R ck , Sty of Architecture in ” E lan un es i a i n l e lares its es n ng d, h t t g y d c w t fro t to be the Bu i finest in this country. t t has further charms than those — of its architecture histo ry and circumstance are ri chly THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

repres ented in Beverley Mins ter and in the quaint market

town whi ch stretches away from its grey walls . Not so an i en as r it is rt Of ran i n i t i n as a c t Yo k , wo hy k g w h R po is im rtance centre of great h torical m .

fi in a . n e erle the un er It was tt g th t St Joh of B v y, fo d of

e erle ins er S ul be an Eas idi n man . orn at B v y M t , ho d t R g B ar am near Drifii eld in 6 0 he was for a ime in ar e H ph , , 4 , t ch g Of e ore r is o an er ur and was a t er ar s Th od , A chb h p of C t b y, f w d ’

f a s e at i . He was ma e an inmate O St. Hild Abb y Wh tby d is ex am in 68 an d ransla e r in 0 B hop of H h 5 , t t d to Yo k 7 5 , and it was during his archiepiscopate that he founded the religi ous house at Beverley of whi ch the Mins ter became r m the ime his ultimately the collegiate church. F o t of death ’ in 21 . n s re u a i on as a sain in rease earl 7 , St Joh p t t t c d y y, an d it was soon a matter of common belief in the North er a s that miracles were worked at his shri ne . Ov th t hrine the resen s a el e ifi e r se ever r is o r p t t t y d c o , y A chb h p of Yo k el in the it m ne an d ri vile es and the rea h p g work w h o y p g , g t Of e un an d es eciall the erc s and th families th co ty , p y P y e

a asours ma in i s of and s ne . ra i l V v , k g g ft wood to It p d y ric an er ul use an d at the ime of th became a h d pow f ho , t e ’ i E I s rei n it had a cleri al s aff Dissolut on (in dward V . g ) c t

of nearl i ers ns and an annual in me of 600 . y e ghty p o , co £ During the previ ous four cen turies it had numbered some — a famous men amongst its provosts Thomas Becket . fter ar s r isho f an er ur ulk arra s metime w d A chb p O C t b y ; F B tt , o is Of n n am de el n a er ar s r is B hop Lo do Willi M to , ft w d A chb hop r and n ansell was la er on ancell r of Yo k Joh M , who t Ch o of ’ a St . P ul s .

ar r m t e au f its ar i ec ure e erle Ap t f o h be ty O ch t t , B v y Minster is noticeable amongst English churches for its ss essi n se eral remar a le interi r ea ures in ac po o of v k b o f t ; f t , its monuments are much more interesting than those of

ei er or or i n. i e i n it osses sed the ri ile e th Y k R po L k R po , p p v g n an e m e of sanct uary . This ex te ded a mile d a quart r fro th ur in e er ire i n and the r rosses i ch ch v y d ct o , of fou c wh ch

16 N THE ENCHANTING ORTH .

Beverley is remarkably fortunate in posses sing yet

' . Mar s ur at the n rt end the wn is a St y Ch ch , o h of to , structure of such admi rable proportion and such ex cellent

and r n i eri s and its es r n is arti Pe pe d cular p od , w t f o t p cularly fin Mins is s me fine ar in in e . ere as in the er H , t , o c v g the a ak s In the na e i a st lls and on the o reredo . v s pillar of

i a lute- a e a i lin- la er a rummer and a a p per, pl y r, v o p y , d

which appear to have been erected by the merchants and An inscri i n r un n the good wives of the town. pt o o d the fo t shows that it was given to the Church by one Willi am

Lerr fax e er in the ear 1 0. u si e the ur on y , drap , y 5 3 O t d ch ch, the s si near the r ere is a a le beari n the outh de, po ch , th t b t g

two o un Danish souldi ers l e Here y g y . Th e one i n quarrell chanced t o di e ’ H b thei r own Law The other s ead y , w v b n w With sword as se ered y o e Blo . 2 68 Dec. 3, 1 9 .

This commemorates an event which happened when a anis s ldi ers r u er for the use of contingent of D h o , b o ght ov

was uar ere at e erle . em Willi am III . , q t d B v y Two of th quarre lled and fought a duel in which one was slai n ; the an e i anis law was e ea e other, in accord c w th D h , b h d d by

an the two ere urie e er. An en r his sword , d w b d tog th t y of t i event occurs in the pari sh reg ster.

rea ur es e erle oss esses a Apart from its two g t ch ch , B v y p

ts own . is a uain li le n set in distinct charm of i It q t tt tow , a level land at the southern edge o f the Wolds a town of

an a les le- a e s ree s and old- rl red roofs d g b , cobb p v d t t , wo d i inns are r m and s a i us and quietude . Its anc ent oo y p c o , ,

E E 18 TH NCHANTING NORTH .

a e n mar e a s enerall a es slee iness and s v o k t d y , g y bod of p

a e . n e surroun e li e r i alls it has now pe c O c d d, k Yo k, w th w , no i e em remainin sa e at the r Bar close ves t g of th g v No th , ’ o a s . ere e the old ak a es t St . M ry Church H ther are still o g t in e lis ere is li le of and the groove where th portcul fell. Th tt is r a a e the n ex e a it was i hl h to y tt ch d to tow , c pt th t h g y favoured by E thelstan an d by some of the earlier Norman in s a ear to a e had an ex reme] re eren i al K g , who pp h v t y v t

for e e n mi ra le r er. feeling th pow r of St . Joh as a c wo k It is strange now to thi nk that it was once a port on the s e the River Hull and sent ship to sea. Apart from som of great men who were at one time or other provosts of the ins er it a r u e s me n a le men its own M t , h s p od c d o ot b of , of m th s n i ea le w e s is er who e mo t ot c b as th famou John F h , is es er one e es s h ars his B hop of Roch t , of th great t c ol of ime rn ere in 1 and e u a e in the n ame t , who , bo h 45 9, d c t d tow , c his h on e o - s a to deat th scafl ld seventy six year l ter. CHAPTER II . Ri The ve r U re and Wens leydale .

VELLERS who wish to see the Yorkshire dales in di ng way should follow the rivers whi ch run t rou em not r m eir sour es but r m h gh th , f o th c , f o the ari us in s at i e run as e l in o the v o po t wh ch th y , th y al do , t n — is o great ce tral stream of the county the Ouse . It ften the cas e that the firs t stretches of the country thus covered are flat and m n n us but ere is in all ases mu Of o oto o , th c ch i s ri alue be n in Old C ur es Old uses in eres i n h to c v to see h ch , ho , t t g ns and illa es and the eli a urne us tow v g , d ght of jo y th undert aken increas es with every mile until it finally culminates amidst mountain scenery o f di versified and oft en Of romanti c mu uali . One reci a es ensle ale for ins an e q ty app t W yd , t c , ch more if one follows the River Ure from its junction with t he Swale at Myton (from whi ch point southward the combined rivers are known as the Ouse ) than if one dropped upon its lories at ervaulx er the ale ro er ma be sai g J , wh e d p p y d e i n ere is is ori ass ia i n and ma er as to b g . Th h t c oc t o tt of v t in eres er one r man F w in t t e h as cove ed y miles . e places HE E T NCHANTING NORTH .

r s i re are as ell rt seein as l r u the Yo k h w wo h g A dbo o gh, a the man O u a ion i h was a r Isari m of Ro cc p t , wh c so t of re i for the arri son in r and seem h pleasu c ty g Yo k , s to ave abounded in Villas and country houses such as the Romans si e i i Nor s loved to build out d thei r great c t es . hould anyone who loves the sight of old English market towns miss r ri e it its uain inns rl rn and es la e Bo oughb dg , w h q t , fo o d o t n w ha the c a in a s are er its mem ries t e o t t o ch g d y ov , o of h arna ai r and its ssessi n the r rio s annual B by F , po o of th ee myste u ’ s n wn as the e il s rr s c n ernin i monolith , k o D v A ow , o c g wh ch i has et een a le an fini e no arche olog st y b b to say y de t word . Whole days of pleasure may be spent about Boroughbridge — an d Aldborough together they form a little centre of thei r own erein the l er the as fin s an a un an e , wh ov of p t d b d c of interes t and delight .

n the Ure at i n runs the a in s I to R po Skell, t y tream whi ch is chiefly notable because it will conduct the traveller ll s it to one the rea eau -s s Of r s i re who fo ow of g t b ty pot Yo k h , F w Fountai ns Abbey . e of the religious houses of England a e had suc a roman i i s r as i s the rea es h v h t c h to y th , g t t of er an m nas eries i un r the man y Cist ci o t wh ch the co t y possessed . It was founded by certai n monks from the Benedictine

e . ar at r r in ear the Abb y of St M y Yo k, who, g ow g w y of lax i e rule ere en olun aril in o th wil erness ty of th th , w t v t y t e d

li e a stri li e . urs an r is of rk a e to v cter f Th t , A chb hop Yo , g v em lan in Skelldale and ere for s me ime e li e th d , h o t th y v d on r s and reen stufl a i n li le m re t an the s el er oot g , h v g tt o h h t of the rees and c min ni a s lu e s ar a i n m re t , o g gh to b o t t v t o o an n en t e ere at ei r las s rai s u th o ce . Wh h y w th t t t , H gh, an r ame li e and di e am n s em an d it De of Yo k, c to v o g t th , was his money whi ch enabled them to set about buildi ng e as s s en the monastery . The house thus rected w ub equ tly es r fire res en e the remai ns i d t oyed by the p t Abb y, of wh ch are the m s nsi ra le in r shi re was m le e a u o t co de b Yo k , co p t d bo t r as th mm the middle of the thi rteenth century . Poo e co unity h een at it re o be one the ri es and m s ad b firs t, g w t of ch t o t

22 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

Sin le man and it is er ai n a the Sir i ar rah am g , c t th t R ch d G e m numen spoken of di d not di e until 165 3 . Th re are o ts to — Nortons and Grahams in the church at Wath a splendi d S ecimen Earl En lis ar i e ure i n ai ns man p of y g h ch t ct , wh ch co t y in er is features of t es t to the archaeolog t .

Tanfield the an ien stron l the armi ns and At , c t gho d of M o , at as am ele ra fo i ts as s iati on i the ra M h , c b ted r oc w th Mowb ys nd he r e one m u n man is ri monumen s a t Sc op s , co es po y h to c t and mem ries . the as le on e in a i e the armi ns o Of c t , c h b t d by M o , at Tanfield the a e use now alle the armi n er , G t ho , c d M o Tow ,

— - is still in ex i stence a square ivy covered structure whi ch muc mmen e i sel elan en he as se i s w h co d d t f to L d wh p d th ay . In the hurc ere are man armi n m s n ne c h th y M o to b , o of them in er re air min e i n b t all ell r u ins t . ov good p , u w wo th t pec o One of alabaster has the efligies Of a Marmion and hi s wife the kni in ain arm ur the la in a r e ere n are ght ch o , dy ob wh o

s n the arms n o . in in how of Marmio irnp aling th se of St Qu t . ” er hi s is a horse or rame wr u ir n r at Ov t , f of o ght o wo k, the corners of whi ch are prickets wherein candles were

la ed . In the ur as am ur er al n the ri er p c ch ch of M h , f th o g v , there i s an equally interestin g monument i n memory of Sir u e W vill and hi s i e but ere is no in Marmad k y w f , th th g to h remind one of the Mowbrays or t e Scropes .

Where the character of the surroundings of the Ure be ins an e the un ula in lan i in lace s ener g to ch g , d t g d g v g p to c y a m re r man i na ure one fin s all a i s le the of o o t c t , d th t ft of e ervaulx n e one the m s im rtant the Abb y of J , o c of o t m of

o r shi re reli i ous uses . The remai ns are s an and in Y k g ho c ty, some parts of the ruins nothi ng more than the original

r un lan can be ra e . In a r m th g o d p t c d f ct , f o the time of e iss lu i n un il a u one undre ears a o ar is D o t o t bo t h d y g , J v ’ uins as e are s le l all ere ma e use for R , th y ty d oc y, w d of eminen l ra ti al if s me a an al- li e ur ses— the t y p c c , o wh t V d k , p po nei urin armers rea e em as a on ni n uarr ghbo g f t t d th c ve e t q y , and the local authori ties fetched stones from them in order t o re air the r a s . a is le e er is ell are p o d Wh t ft , how v , now w c d JERVAULX ABBEY .

T was ri inall f un e for and very pictures que . he house o g y o d d by n lan a er s urnin for a certain mo ks from By d, who, ft ojo g im at rs near skri a lea and in lemen s t e Fo , A gg, b k c t pot, an at ervaulx r m nan Earl received a gran t of l d J f o Co , of Ri n n e e an uil a u the mi dle chmo d, whereo th y b g to b d bo t d ’

he wel en ur . ar one H enr VIII . s of t t fth c t y D cy , of y ommissi ners re r in U n ervaulx e lare it be c o , po t g po J , d c d to He one of the most beautiful churches he had ever seen . also referred to the prowess of its monks in breeding horses — and making cheese two Wensleydale accomplishments whi ch

in - The mmuni was a ai rl are good evidence to day. co ty f y eal one a e i e the iss lution us e re w thy t th t m of D o , j t b fo i its las am e er was an e at wh ch t Abbot, Ad of S db gh, h g d T a e ybum for taki ng part in the Pilgrimage of Gr c .

The rem ns ra n Can ns erham e se P o t te sian o of Cov Abb y, who use w si ua e in er ale one e man smaller ho as t t d Cov d , of th y ales i en out ensl ale ere am us li e d wh ch op of W eyd , w f o , k ei r nei urs ervaulx f r reedi n rses but e th ghbo of J , o b g ho , th y had a s e iali in hi e rses and it is a si ular a p c ty w t ho , ng f ct that horses of thi s colour are frequently seen in thi s di stri ct

the res en da . i e ervaulx er am has sufiered to p t y L k J , Cov h mu r m ne le and e re a i n and ere is li tle ch f o g ct d p d t o , th t le e n a r i n the na e the a e use and some ft b yo d po t o of v , g t ho , fli i N e g es and stones inset in the adj acent farm buildi ngs . or is ere mu r i I c i in eres th ch to see in Cove dale tself. ts h ef t t lies in the fact that somewhere in its secluded stretches was rn Miles er ale the ransla or the i le was bo Cov d , t t of B b , who the first Bishop of Ex eter consecrated after the Reformation.

u i n a fine si i n on the sout Si e the Ure Occ py g po t o h d of , an d commanding magnificent views of the opposite side and

the ills stre hin the n r - es Mi dle am i of h tc g to o th w t , d h , w th its is ri as le its ass i a i n it he e illes and i h to c c t , oc t o w h t N v w th

Ri ar . is one the mos in eres in ac in ch d III , of t t t g pl es ensle n in o W ydale . Here o e comes t direct touch with some the rea es names the m s im r an e en s in En s of g t t , o t po t t v t , gli h

is r . The as le i s an s r minen l a e h to y c t , wh ch t d p o t y bov the 24 THE ENCHANTING NORTH . li le wn t i was uil a u the end the tt to a ts foot , b t bo t of i z Ranul h one the ran twelfth century by Robert F t p , of g d ne an firs Earl Ri m n a er phews of Alan of Britt y, t of ch o d ft , The rman ee hic he uil the Norman Conquest. No k p w h b t s n the res the rk ie the is in good pre ervatio t of wo , ch fly of ri was mu ama e en the as le was Decorated pe od, ch d g d wh c t i W Wh en in the i i an l af the il ar. r eent d sm t ed ter C v , th t h en u i e am asse the e illes marria e c t ry, M ddl h p d to N v by g ,

i rea ass ci a i ns e an . o er e ille alle t ts g t o t o b g R b t N v , c d he ea the r a e rea l the as an P cock of No th, dd d g t y to c tle , d

Ri har . ma e an nsi era l im r eme i c d III d m y co d b e p ov nts in t . ere i ar e ille Earl of arwi the am us H R ch d N v , W ck, f o King ’ a er e i s a e u one Sh ul not a e m k , k pt h gh t t , tho gh o d tt mpt to ’ form an accurate idea of what that state was from Lytton s ” s mew a hi l - l ured r man e The as the ar ns o h t gh y co o o c L t of B o , erein as re ar s se a s at Mi le am ere wh , g d tho d y dd h , th are

man is ri al err rs . ere the ad nne e ille i y h to c o H L y A N v , w fe ’ - i c ar . a e ir a ill a e m n of R h d III , g v b th to th t f t d o arch s only son in 1 and ere ele en ears la er the il , 473 , h , v y t , ch d di ed . Round about the Mi ddleham of those days Richard III n a rea eal ime ere seems who spe t g t d of t h , to have been

n a i ns the e le and the reli i us us be ef ct o to p op g o ho es . It was

ma e the aris ur . ar and he who d p h ch ch of St M y St . Alk elda lle i a e and r m i le am a he sen man ri i co g t , f o M dd h th t t y ch g fts in to York M ster.

The moors which stretch for miles above Middleharn and its cas tle have long been celebrated as training grounds for and it is m re an r a le a the m n s racehorses , o th p ob b th t o k of Jervaulx and Coverham used them for putting whatever they happened to have in their stables at the time through bit ex er ise er the er a res on i a knowing of c ov v y c wh ch , i la er The l i n u man was raine for centur es t , F y g D tch t d his an the er d er. B t great Victories in the D by St . Leg u the traini ng of racehorses on these moors in all probability goes f er an the a s ervaulx and o back even urth th d y of J C verham, — — 6 . MILL GILL FORCE. 8 . AYSGARTH FALLS.

2 LEYBURN . 5 for though we have no very accurate records of the sport previous to the time of J ames I there are references to it as a e e and one ma be sure in chroni cles as old th t of B d , y that the horse -loving Yorks hireman of any age would an a e the ure een ai r es e i appreci ate the adv t g of p , k of th h gh a m ern rainers a re i a e em one ui kl altitudes . Th t od t pp c t th q c y sees at Middleham in the presence of the neighbouri ng trai ning establishments an d in the strings of horses going to i or returning from ex erc se .

urn a es i le am acr ss the alle — a ui e Leyb f c M dd h o v y q t,

- e n uil for the m s r un pri mly picturesque littl tow , b t o t pa t ro d a l e uare i is ui e en u ex e on mar e arg sq , wh ch q t o gh c pt k t a s en the alesmen and eir i es me in i h eir d y , wh d th w v co w th t In the ar e a e is vari ous commoditi es . M k t Squ r an ancient

ull- rin but is is reall all ere is see in the la e b g, th y th to p c , for the ur is ui e m ern and ere are no l in s ch ch q t od , th bui d g

- n e . But a mile u si e the n on the n r es of ot o t d tow , o th w t , ere is a limes ne erra e o erl in ee s enea th to t c , v ook g d p wood b th, a walk along which aflords some of the fines t prospects in the nor untr . is n n as e urn a l mman s th co y Th , k ow L yb Sh w , co d an ex tensive prospect of the greater part of Wensleydale m va x e a r el er ul o e s kri . as les f o b ow J Abb y to b v A gg C t , illa es chIIrches rea uses lie in th v g , , g t ho e dale beneath ; s u ar and es ar the ills rise i er and i er in o thw d w tw d h h gh h gh , l er and m re ro en u line un il e li n bo d o b k o t , t th y k themselves

the m un ains the an al - to o t of Pennine R ge . H f way along the ’ a l is a narr efile kn n l all as the ueen s Ga Sh w ow d ow oc y Q p .

ere it is sai ar ueen s was - H , d, M y Q of Scot re captured when maki ng an attempt to escape from the custody of Lord r e at l n as le l se but the n i i Sc op , Bo to C t , c o by, lege d s m r a le h u it is ssi a e p ob b , t o gh po ble th t th Queen often came i s s as she had nsi era le li er n to th pot, co d b b ty , u der surveil

lan e in in a u the i s . c , go g bo t d trict

ensle l in in t he alle el i es its name the W y, y g v y b ow, g v to ale an as a r er ri so for it is not nl the d , d h p op ght to do , o y ' re ies in the n i ur but one the m s p tt t Village e ghbo hood, of o t 26 THE E NCHANTING NORTH .

harmin and i ures ue s s in En lan . is i c g p ct q pot g d It , ndeed, so charming that one is tempted to spend time in it which be i o man i si s ul en t t er la es . r ua i n a ho d g v o h p c A o t c t t o , eau i ul old ur a murmuri n ri er fine r an b t f ch ch, g v , t ees d lux ian e e a i n a illa e reen mi na e a ur t v g t t o , v g g do t d by noble elm e i en es all r un as ral Sim li i and r s i , v d c o d of p to p c ty p o per ty — thes e thi ngs as sist in maki ng Wensley a place long to be em e ur ma e lle ia e i r embered. Th ch ch ( d co g t by R chard II .

all n - in e v in 1399) is natur y the ce tre po t of th illage. It st ands in a churchyard of considerable ex tent on a plateau

a e the Ure and is as i tures ue as it is in eres in . bov , p c q t t g is ull mem rials the r es and an e i en It f of o of Sc op , v d ce of its original foundation is seen soon after entering it in some Sax on mas onry which has been let into the wall of the n i Its a ur is fin e as s the t orth a sle . gre t feat e a br of fourteen h en ur in the an el i s s a ries ull es t e c t y, ch c , wh ch how p t f y v d

in alb as u le s le and mani le . hali e is re resen e , ch b , to p A c c p t d re sin u e an s are r sse n i po g pon the breas t th h d c o d be eath t . is rass one the fines in En lan is el on Th b , of t g d , h d good au ori be a Sir im n de ensle a r n th ty to th t of S o W y, fou tee th n e he em rials ce tury memb r of t Scrope family . M o of the Scropes are in every part of the church in one form or an er The ac and si es the amil ew ord oth . b k d of f y p of L

l n in the n rt ai sle ere n e the s reen- r the Bo to , o h , w o c c wo k of

cr os E e near ic m n . On it are S ope parcl e at asby Abb y, R h o d inscriptions embodying the names of many Scropes Henry Scrope the Symonde the firs ts Henry the ’ e secounde John Scrop ye fyrst . Th shields beneath is a r es armi ns u s a res and d pl y the arms of Sc op , M o , L cy , D c r th emen the na e ere is a rea sla othe s . In e pav t of v th g t b l ne on hi in a rdan e i an an i en of imesto , w ch, cco c w th c t cus all cofi ns are set n en r u in the tom, dow wh b o ght to ur an er i the firs rti n the marri a e ch ch , d ov wh ch t po o of g servic i On the le an si e e e l in ards e is sa d. ft h d d dg , ook g tow the an el is an ri i n i h s o s a it ers the ch c , insc pt o wh c h w th t cov r ai ns i n Clederow r ers nce re rs em of R chard and Joh , b oth , o cto

2 BOLTON CASTLE . 9

r m the ores En le in um erlan t he way f o F t of g by, C b d , draughts of ox en being stati oned at various points en route for its conveyance over the fells and moors to Wensleydale . When completed it was one of the most formidable fas tnesses

— - s uare s r n l i s uare ers of the North a four q t o gho d, w th q tow at ea an le ree i are s ill in a c m ara i el ch g , th of wh ch t o p t v y elan saw s e in ere i as nis e perfect state . L d om th g h wh ch to h d

e n in th e si x t een en ur . One i n mu him , ve th c t y th g I ch ” ha l n he sa s himne s noted in the ull of Bo to , y ; how c y tunnils ma e i n the s e the alls were conveyed by d yd of w ,

wix the li s in the haull. An d his means and bet t ght by t , is the sm e the ear in the haull by no covers , ok of h th wonder strangely convey He also saw at Bolton a ” ai re Cl cum mot“ soli s et heme and was mu f ock, , ch impressed with the strengt h of the cas tle and by the good i e lodging which t afford d.

ar r m its as s i a i n i the amil of r Ap t f o oc t o w th f y Sc ope , l n as le is ull in ense hi s ori in eres e ause it Bo to C t f of t t c t t , b c

was fo im the rison- use ar ueen r some t e p ho of M y Q of Scots . Wh en she fled from Scotland in 15 68 she was met at — Carli sle by the Lord Scrope of that day the ninth baron who was then governor of the Border city an d warden of

the mar es . r l a erwards un er his us ch Sho t y ft , d c tody and a en e a r e she was rem e not i he tt d d by L dy Sc op , ov d , w th r nsen l n as le and ere she remai ned un il co t , to Bo to C t , th t the inni n the i Sir ra n s beg g of follow ng year. F ncis K olly was sent n t o l n t o a en u n her and seems a dow Bo to tt d po , to h ve ’ considered Lord Scrope s cas tle the most fitting place in i e ai n her in sa e for h in ou in on wh ch to d t f ty, e po ts t e of hi s letters that it was not only the highest walled house he had e er seen but t a it ssesse the ur er a an a v , h t po d f th dv t ge a i n n en ran e and ere r a of h v g only o e t c , could th fo e be e sily uar e a small num er s l i ers It was urin g d d by b of o d . d g her impri sonment at Bolton that Mary learnt English from Sir ran is n ll s and m se and r e her firs l F c K o y , co po d w ot t etter in the lan ua e i un il en had een un amili ar g g , wh ch t th b f to her. 0 THE E 3 NCHANTING NORTH . — But there was another matter o i much more importance ’ in Mary s chequered career than the learning Of English — from an ami able Ch amberlai n set over her as a spy which ’ sprang into being duri ng th e Scottish Queen s residence ’ un er cr s r ile i ne d Lord S ope oof. Wh she was deta d there a mmi ssi n was si in firs at r en at es mins er Co o tt g, t Yo k, th W t t , which had for its obj ect an ex amination of the charge which had been brought agai nst her of having been privy to the mur r is mmi ssi n was resi e o de of Darnley . Th co o p d d ver by

the u e r l was ro er a c . D k of No fo k , who b th to L dy S rope e ween ar and the u e le ers e an as s a B t M y D k tt b g to p , L dy

r e ac i n as - n The le ers re r m fri n Sc op t g go betwee . tt g w f o e dli

- nes s to love love tokens began to accompany them. There ’ can be li le u a the u e aS ired ar s an tt do bt th t D k p to M y h d , an w E An o d as prepared to intrigue against li zabeth . d s the — period of incarceration at Bolton which does not seem to a e een a ri r us one sin e the ueen was ermi e h v b go o , c Q p tt d o un in a in and ri i n an d a e h ad in to g h t g, h wk g d g, to h v k d — en n Th u f o l gaolers c ame to a very sudd e d. e D ke O N rfo k los his ea and ar was urrie a a u ur an d t h d , M y h d w y to T tb y, en Shefi eld ere the Earl of re s ur ma e h r th to , wh Sh w b y d e ” as and e her for el e ears un er s ri sur eillance . f t , k pt tw v y d t ct v

The thi rteenth Lord Scrope and first Earl of Sunder lan i ed in 16 0 was the las of the dire male li ne d, who d 3 , t ct the r es and eir lan s hen asse marri a e of Sc op , th d t p d by g to Mr c e the le amil . ere was e er a . r Pow tt f y Th , how v , S op who garrisoned Bolton Castle for the King in 1645 in compan y i n r e een re u e w th a Colo el Chayt o . They seem to hav b d c d

so e s rai s for e ere m elled li e on orse les . to r t t , th y w co p to v h f h In em e 16 t e a i ula e and ere allo e Nov b r, 45 , h y c p t t d, w w d to h ar ut ar n r . ears la er t e m ch so hw d , to Po tef act Two y t an stronghold of the Scropes was ordered to be di sm tled . Yet in s i e i s and Of the ra a es i ime h as p t of th , v g wh ch T

r ed n it it is s a rmi a e -l in ile and has wo k upo , till fo d bl ook g p , len ex hi i th ri s ra eller ma if he p ty to b t to e cu ou t v , who y, leases and is re are t o ac e l al ra i i n lin er for p p p d c pt oc t d t o , g

E WENSLEYDAL . 3 1 a while in the chamber which sheltered Mary Queen of Scots during what was probably the happies t period of her l n ar i i o g and we y capt v ty .

s ar ensle ale e ins be il er and m re At Ay g th, W yd b g to w d o

i ersifie in hara er. The ri er ins ea s irlin al n d v d c ct v , t d of w g o g in placid fashion and seeming to sleep in brown pools under lea s es ashes er a series a er alls and urns fy had , d ov of w t f ch s ar r it itself into mas ses of foam. At Ay g th Fo ce rushes er limes ne le es i s re r m an an and ov to dg , wh ch t tch f o b k to b k o e The r e s oul be n are overhung by thi ck f liag . Fo c h d see — when the river is in flood it is then certainly a notable an - i n the Ure i s low it d awe inspiring s ght . Whe will be n i e a the es ne is mu rn the a er and ot c d th t lim to ch wo by w t , that great holes or pits have been worked into it during su essi e a In th la e s ere is cc v ges . e vil g of Ay garth th little of notice with the ex cepti on of an ex cellent vi ew from the

ur ar and the fine rOOd- screen in the ur but it ch chy d ch ch , is a a i al en re for seein the nei ur and a o c p t c t g ghbo hood , go d st ar in - out in for the ales the s ut and es an d t g po t d to o h w t , it is als in l se r x imi a a all the an ien sea o c o p o ty to N pp H , c t t ’ the e al es in am en s ime e e re ne of M tc f , who C d t w r cko d to be the E an re is r most numerous family in ngl d . The reco d of a Sir Christopher Metcalfe meeting the Judges at York in 1 6 in i ear he was Sherifi a en e ree 5 5 , wh ch y , tt d d by th un re men all of his own name and ki n e er man of h d d , , v y i o a wh ch c nsider ble posse was mounted on a white horse . ere ere are s me reli s ar ueen s in lu i n H th o c of M y Q of Scot , c d g a e s ea on i sh i s b d t d wh ch e sai d to have slept .

NO one should pass this part of Wensleydale without urnin asi e see Semm rwater one the er few la es t g d to e , of v y k (if one may call them by so di stingui shed a term) of whi ch

r shi re can as . is a a i s ee a er l in Yo k bo t It pl c d h t of w t , y g am n s the ills and e en s mu u n li an d s a e o g t h , d p d ch po ght h d f i as l n n i or ts efiects . It h a ege d attachi g to t which it s ares in mm n i e ai n la in l r es re an . n it h co o w th c t k I d O ce , is sai a i im r an e an d eal s d, c ty of po t c of w th tood where the T E H ENCHANTING NORTH .

‘ la e now lies and i n it ere ame one da a s ran r k , to th c y t ge of mean a earan e e in o and res was urne pp c , who , b gg g fo d t, t d away from door to door until the inhabitants of hi s last

resor a r a e t hi m in. ex da lea i n the t , poo cott g , ook N t y, v g i he in o e a u n e r s ne of it sa e n c ty, v k d curse po ve y to v upo ’ the li le use ereu n the a er r se and the selfis ho , wh po w t o h i was s all An in urni n asi e see is c ty w owed up . d t g d to th le en ar la e one s ul not or e see Bainb d e one g d y k ho d f g t to d g , the uai n nsle ale illa es nor lim of q test of We yd v g , to c b Addleborou h ere n ere is a mi t ai rn and r m g , wh o th gh y c , f o the summi t of which there is a fine view.

s ri on the t er si e the ri er r m s ar h A k gg, o h d of v f o Ay g t , is a r u hl i al li le n e rn tho o g y typ c tt tow of these w ste dales . seems far out the orl and ein uil a rio It of w d, b g b t of cu us ” re s ne uarried l all and n n as ree it g y to , q oc y k ow g t, wears a en le and su ue ai r at all se ns e ear Th g t bd d aso of th y . e — people seem to be as qui et as their town once upon a ime as run en arna sees fit men i n in his r m t , D k B by to t o hy es , the men as ell as the men ma e a li i n ni in w wo d v g by k tt g. was als ele ra e for its man u a ure l c s It o c b t d f ct of c o k , and speci mens of the skill Of its clockmakers may yet be di scovered in out -Oi - the-wa s in eres in y farmhouse . There is little of t t skri i sel or in its c ur ex e a in the la er are A gg t f, h ch, c pt th t tt some ancient pillars which are believed to have been brought ere r m the e rs se and a in the th f o Abb y of Fo , clo by, th t s ree si an o a ean man i on still in a o t t , oppo te ld J cob s g od s a e reser a i n is a s one markin th e en re the t t of p v t o , t g c t of ri n r in But t th ac he g whe e bulls were baited . a e b k of t wn are a er alls ill ill r e and hi fiel r e to two w t f , M G Fo c W t d Fo c , hi e en i n i lan na ural a ara s are not nl w ch , v th s d of t c t ct , o y no u m e r bu i ure e an i ressi e . t wo thy, t p ct sq d p v

The rea a e the s ri is Hardra aur at g t w t rfall of di t ct w Sc , the en ran e Foss ale a narr alle nin out t c to d , ow v y ope g of e le ale t o n r s e a s e i W ns yd the o th of Hawe . H re tr am wh ch runs down from Great Shunnor Fell dashes over a fall of nearl one un re ee in a l elo i su lume y h d d f t to poo b w, w th ch vo

T E E 34 H NCHANTING NORTH .

and force that a considerable space is left between it and the of limmtone e in i In wall b h d t . winters of ex ceptional se eri the a er is rozen in a mas s ice and resen v ty w t f to of , p ts a n er ul s e a le es e iall as ere is al a s a oll wo d f p ct c , p c y th w y h ow in the en re r u ic a i n he s e left c t , th o gh wh h port o of t tr am seen in may be flow g. William an d Dorothy Wordsworth visi e Hardraw aur in e em er 1 and the e t d Sc D c b , 799, po t, a er al in e in the rus i n at ers us es ri e eir ft w k g b h d h g w , th d c b d th conception of what it must be like to be in such a cool retreat on a summer day : We could not help feedi ng u n the leas ure i i s a e in the ea a ul po p wh ch th c v , h t of J y

n n ul s rea r u a e isi el sensi le . oo , wo d p d th o gh fram ex qu t y b at u e r on the ri the an in in r un on Th h g ock ght , b k w d g o d the le i its li in lia e and he reeze s ealin u ft w th v g fo g , t b t g p the valley and bedewing the cavern with the sweetest ima ina le s ra and en murm the a er the g b p y, th the ur of w t , uie the seclusi n q t, o

a es a mar e n set nea ni ne un re ee At H w , k t tow rly h d d f t

e sea-le el and i li the i s e b t mu abov v , w th ttle of p cture qu u ch the ran dl il a u it ensle ale ma be sai of g y w d bo t , W yd y d to d ere the mo n ains e a ne En lan en . H great u t of th B ckbo of g d r e eir a en i n u n th e raveller risi n li e sen inels fo c th tt t o po t , g k t w n r s ire and Westrnor an But r m a es bet ee Yo k h l d. f o H w

adia e se eral out -oi -the- rl u erl l nel li le alle s r t v wo d, tt y o y tt v y , e ere and e i l arms ea s the inhabi dott d h ther w th iso ated f t d , es tan ts Of which lead the most pas toral and pri mitive of liv . To res t in one of them is to rest amidst a silence which i n e o n seems as if t ev r c uld be broke . CHAPTER III .

Swaledale and Richmond .

ROM the point where the rivers Ure and Swale combine rm the se ere is in th surr un in s to fo Ou , th little e o d g of the Swale to attract anybody to wander along its banks as f as a eri ri e ere its r al eau ies ma be sai ar C tt ck B dg , wh e b t y d

a e eir e innin . rue it a es in To clifi e on its to h v th b g g T , t k p wa and To clifi e now no m re an a slee illa e set y, p , o th py v g a ou a fine ur on a reen n ll was i n its ime a b t ch ch g k o , t

la e n e . was ere a enr er ur Earl p c of ot It h th t H y P cy, fo th r um erlan was mur ere in his own use an of No th b d, d d ho by

in i a e mob the ns le in ril 1 8 . ere fur t d of tow peop Ap , 4 9 H ,

arles . was for a ime el ri s ner ile the too, Ch I t h d p o wh negoti ations were being carried on with the Scottish Com

i n - ere are some an i en eart r s at miss o ers in 1646 7 . Th c t hwo k TO lifi e hi are r ex ami nin and the ur is pc w ch wo th g, ch ch of mu in eres but the eneral im ressi n i is on ch t t , g p o wh ch th ce n la e now n e is one un r en ui import a t p c co v ys of b ok q etude . 36 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

Before coming to Catterick Bri dge one meets with a villa e l n-u n- wale hi c is some in eres ecause g , Bo to po S , w h of t t, b in it urc ar li the remains enr enkins sai s ch hy d e of H y J , d to c in be the Oldes t Englishman who ever lived. Ac ord g to the i n his m n men he i e at th a inscri pt on o o u t d d e ge of 169. Whether he really did attain that age is a question whi ch

lace on December th 16 0 is recorded in the ari sh p g , 7 , p “ re i ster that of a ver a ed and oor man and th g as y g p , ere

Yet on e er an it is ertai n a he a e evi n , th oth h d, c th t g v de ce in a ase on erni n the a eri i es in 166 and a c c c g C tt ck t th 7 , th t he was then des cribed as being of the age of 157 or there o e i in su r ab uts . Th chief ev dence ppo t of the contention a he reall was s old as he was re u e be e er th t y a p t d to , how v , res s on a le er ri en Mrs . nne a Dr t tt w tt by A S ville to . i n in i h she sa s a al in n i Rob nso , wh c y th t, t k g to Je k ns one ’ day in her sister s kitchen when he had come to ask an alms l her t a he elieve himsel at a , he to d h t b d f th t time to 16 a he ul remem er enr I and be 3 , th t co d b H y V II . , that he carried a load of arrows to Northallerton intended for the

av a he had een u ler or He also told Mrs . S i lle th t b b t to L d on e s an ul remem er the untai ns C y r , d co d b Abbot of Fo

as . a ille a s coming to drink a glass with his m ter Mrs . S v dd that at the time she saw Jenkins there were several people of the neighbourhood who were all centenarians or nonagen ari ans and e ere a ree a en e were un , th y w g d th t wh th y yo g W et er all was Jenkins was a very old man . h h he re y born not no one can e ermine but it is certai n t a in 15 00 or d t , h t he provi des us with one of the best specimens of longevity n n which this nation has ever k ow .

e i the Cataractoni um the man u a i n Catt r ck, of Ro occ p t o in The a ual is a place of much teres t . ct site of the Roman i i was onsi era le im r ance was not t a c ty, wh ch of c d b po t , h t of

i but nearer r u all on its n - the modern v llage , B o gh H , orth west E EASBY ABB Y . 37

i e here a lar e lle i n man relies in lu in s d , w g co ct o of Ro , c d g a lar e me al aul ro n a a le ldin wen ur g t c d , c p b of ho g t ty fo al ns i h was uneart e ere ull man ins is g lo , wh c h d h , f of Ro co , i ma s T ere stored in compan y w th a fine gallery of old ster . h are e s in ri ur h in lu in several obj ct of teres t in Catte ck Ch c , c d g s me rasses and e is the ra e and m numen o good b , h re g v o t of ’ i ar rai ai e e t er n n as runken arna R ch d B thw t , b t k ow D B by , wrote a much uoted rar in En lis and a in who q Itine y g h L t , hi was u lis e in 1 mile or so r m the illa e w ch p b h d 638. A f o v g s an s the am us ri e er hi runs the r a t d f o b dg , ov w ch No th Ro d , uil on the li ne the O d man s ree and at is in b t of l Ro t t , th po t ,

and as far sou war as r u ri e alle eemin ane . th d Bo o ghb dg , c d L g L a t eri ri e was i in om le e in 1 2 at a s C t ck B dg or g ally c p t d 4 5 , co t

1 6s . 8d. but it has een mu wi ene sin e . of £ 73 , b ch d d c At its south end stan ds a real Old- fashioned inn of the coaching a s r er i bi r ms bi s a les and a eneral air d y o d , w th g oo , g t b g

It is from this point that the surroundi ngs of the Swale e me of es is ues i n the i r er eau . be e b co h gh t o d of b ty It to q t o d, in ee if t ere an ri er scener in th d d, h are y stretches of v y e r En lan not e en e ti n the ear at ur am No th of g d , v x cep g W D h , the arfe at ol n ri r the i at nares r u Wh B to P o y, N dd K bo o gh, and the ees at arnar as can be r u in T B d C tle , which b o ght to the same class as the all-too-short stretch of the Swale e ween Eas e and Whitclifle on the es b t by Abb y , w t of

i m n . irlin ri er lux urian o s re ruins the R ch o d Sw g v , t wo d , g y , m s r man i all si ua e wn in En lan minate o t o t c y t t d to g d, do d by — one of the most magnificent of Norman cas tles thes e factors o g towards making an efi ect whi ch no eye can ever forget .

Few people visit the remai ns of the house and church of the Premonstratensi an Canons at Eas by without wishi ng to remai n there in the shadow of the Old walls and the fine rees hi s o b m r i eal n t w ch helter them. Nothing c uld e o e d tha

the si ua i n is lace . Th al ill a s ream t t o of th p e Sw e, st t su es ti e its m un ain ri in irls r r and gg v of o t o g , sw ove ocks stones at the edge of the monastic grounds on the sloping E 38 TH ENCHANTING NORTH .

n and on the ri e ehin rees as size and a e upla ds , dg b d, t of v t g i enclose the Abbey and its purlieus w th a curtai n of green. Like many other similar foundations in the North of York s i Eas e mu the r es but it was ri inall h re , by ow d ch to Sc op , o g y a u 1 1 0 nal ns a le i m n and founded bo t 5 , by Ro d Co t b of R ch o d ,

. On th ari s dedi cated to St Agatha. the porch of e P h ur l se the e ere is a s iel the r es Ch ch , c o to Abb y, th h d of Sc op , urial a e uri whose family b pl c was in the Abbey Church. D ng th am us n r ers e ween the r s nd r s en rs e f o co t ov y b t Sc ope a G o v o , in 1 8 hn o Eas was alle Ri ar 3 9, Jo , Abb t of by, c d by ch d r as a i ness on e al the amil and he e se Sc ope w t b h f of f y , d po d that in hi s church of Eas by the Scrope arms were every er be seen—o u the al ars an on the es men s in wh e to t d v t t , the win ws ur rs and refectorium and on do of ch ch, chambe ,

man er hi n s er ai nin the la e. n ee so mu y oth t g p t g to p c I d d, ch ere the r es es eeme ere as a r ns and ene a rs w Sc op t d h p t o b f cto , that when any of them visi ted the Abbey they were invariably received i n state and led to the church and the ’ s l in in s lemn Abbot odg g o procession .

From a gateway near Eas by Abbey there is a view of Richmond which fills lovers of the romantic and the picturesque with impressions and feeli ngs only to be ex pressed by an el u n en r m Eas i also a at al n oq e t sil ce . F o by there s footp h o g the ri er-si e i in s rin or ummer or au umn is v d , wh ch p g s t eli ale a es musi d ghtful to follow. On one side the Sw m k c on the er the r o t in leaf in s rin oth t ees are breaking u to p g , are r d al s a e in ummer and are ull red and p o ig of h d s , f of l in An a n i a Ri m n go d autumn. d t the e d of th s p th ch o d

ma es its a an a es si ua i n . ere ere the ale dv t g of t t o H , wh Sw k

a su en e ur hi is alm half- a- i r e a ol i dd d to w ch ost c cl , b d, h gh r m n r s out r n alle and p o o to y jut f om the orth side of the v y, r fo ms a defensive position of great military importan ce . In medie val days Richmond must have been almost im re na e p g ble . It could only have been entered from th

0 TH E 4 E NCHANTING NORTH . neither in his time nor in the times of any other holders did it remain l in an one amil ong the h ds of any f y. Alan the Red had received one of the richest of the many rich gran ts

made the n uer r but en arles . si x un re by Co q o , wh Ch II h d d ears la er a e the i le uke Ri m n his y t , g v t t of D of ch o d to na ural son arles enn x th ere was not an a re lan t , Ch L o , , c of d o i I i to g w th it . n the meantime t had been held by various mili — i a e th illes the u rs the uart s . All a s f s e Nev , T do , St th t left of this great honour to the present Duke is the i n castle tself and the few acres of la d which it encloses .

e er the s ene an rea mili ar era i ns Ri h N v c of y g t t y op t o , c mond Castle has more than once served as a prison for le n i ere peop whose ames are st ll remembered . H William the i n in tlan was c nfine in one the un e ns L o , K g of Sco d , o d of d g o a er his a ure at ln i Ranul h de lanvi lle d ft c pt A w ck by p G , an was detai ned until he took the oath of allegi ance to

enr . ere i u u the un a ons ance H y II H , w tho t do bt, h ppy C t of ri an and her hil ren r ur and Elean r e B tt y c d , A th o , were k pt i under guard during the re gn of Ki ng John . And passing r m is r le en ere are if le en be true risoners f o h to y to g d, th , g d , p

- For man a lon of a sort under Richmond Castle to day. y g ear a o a i n Wi re i e in the name y g R chmo d ght, who jo c d of m son and ai ne a li vin ma in s was an er Tho p , g d g by k g pot , w d ing about the p urli eus of the cas tle one day when he suddenly came upon an opening which to his mind seemed in to descend into the very bowels of the earth . Noth g aun e he ll e it and emer e at las in a aul d t d, fo ow d , g d t to v t , where he found a great king and his knights fas t bound in slum er a in on the all the aul near his b . H ng g w of v t to n — Th m s n hand was a hor and also a sword Potter o p o ,

a un r m eri us circums n es did to l y hold of de these yst o ta c ,

so la l it d al i dre it r m its s a ar . y ho d of , an h f w th w f o c bb d Whereupon arose a stirri ng and a murmuring amongst the slee in m an in and ni s seein and eari n p g co p y of k g k ght , g h g which Thompson inconti nently fled by the way he had 1 RICHMOND . 4

m and u les s ne er s a e un il he saw a li . co e, do bt v t y d t d y ght But as he fled a voice cried behind him that if he had only drawn the sword or blown the horn he would have been All is a the most fortunate man that ever lived. of whi ch — mere sidelight on the legend which some folk do in all elie e be no le en but a ru — a in honesty b v to g d, t th th t K g Arthur and hi s knights of the Round Table lie asleep i n as le ai in until eir services s all beneath R chmo d C t , w t g th h i r m be needed for the salvat on of Ch istendo .

no en l re a ra one to Ri m n One needs leg dary o to tt ct ch o d. Th as le i sel wi its n er ul si ua i n its rea ee e C t t f, th wo d f t t o , g t k p, ’ ’ i s r its Scollard s all the n i ts Robin Hood Towe , H tow , w th it i ar e la e its ur l rini e s qua nt M k t P c Ch ch of Ho y T ty, wh re a is lan e e een na e and er and shO s fill house p t d b tw v tow , p the north ai sle its tower of the house of the Grey Fri ars ’ its old- rl i s in ri ar s n and the one remai nin wo d b t F Wy d, g — gate at the top of the Bar thes e are in themselves sufi cient to entrance the lover of the romanti c and the Bu Ri i on pictures que . t to see chmond at ts bes t e should be wi th it and its beauties on a night when the moon is ' at i — re era l in a mn er ts ull u u . en e in th f p f b y t Th , wh th e old ar e lace or on the wal enea the as le M k t P , k b th C t walls , or on the i r un on the u side the ri e o h gh g o d so th of v r, r on the ri e at the Bar ate the e e eas s on a b dg foot of g , y f t scene which scarcely any situation in Europe can equal and n one surpass .

R un a ou i m nd not th o d b t R ch o , in the valley of e Swale, but in such close prox imi ty to it that no one visiting ale ale s ul miss seei n em are se eral la es Sw d ho d g th , v p c of there is on a clear day a magnificent view which on the n r in ludes mu ur am on the eas a as s re h o th c ch of D h , t v t t tc ountr ex endin the rt Sea and on th t of c y t g to No h , e sou h a wide prospect which sweeps over the Vale of Mowbray to M the ers r inster. r m Asks all th tow of Yo k F o H , e seat of the Mar uis Zetland and on q of , e of the most pictures que 2 THE ENCHANT N 4 I G NORTH .

the le elan ills . illi l se ne c mes in to C v d H At G ng, c o by, o o u wi t ax n imes f ere was the s ron l to ch h S o t , or h t gho d of Earl Ead ine was l all is is ri un the w , who ord of th d t ct til rmans am No i ar Ri n urn No c e . r s it too f from chmo d to t asi e the old as le ir a ens or nce the d to C t of K kby R v w th , o

s r n l th i - un t o gho d of e F tz Hughs who fo ded Jervaulx Abbey .

The road from Richmond into the more remote parts of Swaledale passes at a little distance from the town a high

’ art hi is n n as W ea ro the a p of w ch k ow illance s L p, f m f ct that a man of that name was once carri ed over it by his

rse i had a en ri and run a a it him. The ho , wh ch t k f ght w y w h all rom m is afl ri h in l at but the f f top to botto g t g to ook , r k ho seman escaped with no more injury than a bro en leg. erea u s the wale i es in o s mak es a ri ci us H bo t S d v to wo d , c p o

si es i sl e s a l its an s and ecomes m re d , wh ch op h rp y to b k , b o and m r as cin i As i n and its rea ee a e o e f at ng. R chmo d g t k p f d out of sight one would think that one was losing touch with

umani f r e is s arce a a i a i n be seen . But h ty, o ther c h b t t o to on the n r e ale a few miles rom i hm n o th ban k of th Sw , f R c o d, the ri er but easil quite hidden from the main road by v , y a n e li es ars e one the ttai nable by mea s of a bridg , M k , of

m s in e in i in ale ale . ere at ars e all o t t rest g v llages Sw d H , M k H , i s th n i has een es a e seat of the family of Hutto , wh ch b t b lished ere since 1600 and has i en two r is s h , g v A chb hop to — i rk and the Church of England Mat thew, Archb shop of Yo ,

a e i an ur . ere are reasures M tth w, Archb shop of C terb y Th t of ’ n — Ralei s i and ote here the ring of Sir Walter gh w dow, pictures of herself and her son a portrai t of the Duke of Monmouth ; and a gold cup given by Queen Elizabeth to

the first Matthew on hi s translation from Durham to York.

its ri e wale ale As one approaches Grinton and b dg , S d GRINTON . 43

on n r r s e reaches Grinto the e a e things of intere t to be seen.

the ri er s s all a is le t a use ister ian of v , how th t f of ho of C c nuns ere at Eller n must surel ha e li e the , who h , to , y v v d

res an se - en in li es e is rians poo t d most lf d y g of v . Non of the h to or a ers n u h its i s r but it is set n topogr ph k ow m c of h to y, dow in the Valor Ecd csi asti cus as havi ng been of the value of mu 1 10s . 6d. a ear. u m re im r an and £ 5 y M ch o po t t, ch m re en in the ma n -da remains is o pret ti ous tter of pres e t y , Merri ck ri r a li le ur er al the ri er and on the P o y, tt f th ong v

O si e an . is a use ene i ine nuns was ppo t b k Th , ho of B d ct , founded by one of the Askes (forerunners of the Huttons n ur at Mars ke Hall) about the middle of the twelfth ce t y. When it was finally suppres sed in 15 39 its annual value was l se n 0 and it had a i res s and wel e nuns . c o upo £5 , pr o t v There was a somewhat unusual feature here : the parish ur ser e as C ur for nun and e le the rmer ch ch v d h ch s p op , fo usin the i r the la the na The n i i n the g cho , tter ve . co d t o of

the Mi le es can of dd Ag come to .

At Grinton one comes across perhaps the most interes ti ng vi la in is a villa l ge the upper reaches of the valley. Here ge

rea an i i a fin urc and a n le ri e . rin n of g t t qu ty, e ch h ob b dg G to i - e a it un ar on s the mother parish of Upp r Sw ledale ; s bo d y, W rder Th the es tern si e rea es the estrnorland . e w d , ch to bo hurc in th i ec i are s me ra es c h, e arch t ture of wh ch there o t c rman r has se eral ea ures rea in eres t and of No wo k, v f t of g t t , on e New estamen posses ses a chained commentary th T t, — pres ented to the parish in 175 2 but why chai ned at On the that particular date there is nothing to ex plai n . i r un a e rin n on the s u si e the ale h gh g o d bov G to , o th d of Sw , th i si i a villa remi n t n e oppos te de of the river s small ge , F g o , er ere is li u n e ex ist a man se lemen wh e, th ttle do bt , o c ed Ro tt t, E EN TH CHANTING NORTH .

e n ee ale ale e mes a un be B yo d R th, Sw d b co co try to i i n i ex plored w th some determinat o and courage . There s little to see at Reeth itself ex cept its fine and capacious reen b t it as s a inn i ex ellen aecom g , u bo t good , w th c t mo a i n and is a cen re for ex l rin the surroun i n d t o , good t p o g d g

ere one is reall t rl . ail a dis tri ct . H y ou of the wo d R w ys seem be a t usan miles a a and one is a t f r e to ho d w y, p to o g t that the telegraph wire h as found its way into these solitudes

- lin eri n ere in ee ne has no is n a the g g h , d d , o w h to k ow th t

has een un . i s rue a after all one is not way b fo d It t th t, , so far from the swift means of returning to any point of — the compass it is only five miles over the hills to Redmi re in ensle dale and nl ten i m n . But W y , o y back to R ch o d l in a ou one at the l d i e it the s ars ook g b t hi lsi es , p tt d w h c from whence human hands have dug forth lead for at least usan ears and at the alle s a in a a amon s two tho d y , v y , f d g w y g t the m un ai ns and a aren l i all but the s an ies o t , pp t y devo d of c t t e i en es uman li e one can asil i th ai d a v d c of h f , e y, w th e of li l ima ina i n elie e a one has m in a tt e g t o , b v th t co e to solitude which nothing ever has disturbed and nothing can ever

ere i li e in ese es la e e i ns and li e i Yet th s f th d o t r g o , f wh ch

the ales f r e are r m ns people of d , a removed as th y f o tow d ies a a min a s li in e en ence and an cit , re of sturdy d, o d d p d , they possess an intelligence and a sharp ness of wit and

e emsel es n w a it is li e in shame . Only th y th v k o wh t to v or a

Each with i ts little span of sky And little lot of stars but their surroundings breed in them a loftiness of character which soon becomes apparent to the stranger who goes m f am n st e . e n ee e ar er o g th B yo d R th, in th reaches of Upp wale ale e n e en u er and el far a a in the S d , b yo d v M k K d, w y

C HAPTER IV.

The N n idd a d N idde rdale .

HERE are not a few m ph in thi s middle regi on of Yorkshire who will be qui ck to impres s upon strangers thei r own beli ef that the Nidd is the most delightful of all r s ire ri vers and th n its an s the m s Yo k h , e sce ery on b k o t a ra i ve an in th un ill it the eau ies tt ct of y e co ty . They w p b t of Knaresborough against those of Richmond and Barnard as le an d ell ou a ere i s m re r man e a a in C t , t y th t th o of o c tt ch g the i an r And to N dd th to either the Wharfe o the Swale . without troubling to make invidi ous compari son between any es e rivers and the ales r u i e run one of th d th o gh wh ch th y , ma as ell sa at n e a th i if it es not y w y o c th t e N dd, do sur ass its sis er-s reams is ull e ual em in eau p t t , f y q to th b ty and in eres and is ell an a i e ex l ra i n . t t, w worthy of ex h ust v p o t o

Withi n a mile or so of the point where the Nidd runs into the Ouse one comes across one of those scandalous s ri es so ri e a on— s ri es w i to f t the time of the Reformati to h ch,

- if al le en ar are at an rate an amusin na ure . h f g d y, y of g t NUN MONKTON . 47

N nk n uri n the rei n e en illiam de At un Mo to , d g g of St ph , W Arches and hi s wife Ivetta founded a pri ory of Benedi ctine nuns and er is mmuni ar are ai r ax resi e , ov th co ty M g t F f p d d he een en he was a eau i ul at th e end of t fourt th c tury. S b t f and a ra i e ri res s an d mu un for her ofi ce . tt ct v p o , ch too yo g fi t n her a ere li e ersel un The f een uns under ch rge w , k h f, yo g , air and as the s r es as mu in line to ri li f , , to y go , ch c d f vo ty as e ersel w ere ore s an al ui l ar se and sh h f as . Wh f c d q ck y o , it i lei an a mas al is recorded n th e Har MSS . th t Tho D by, r eac n of ic m n was sen Nun n n A chd o R h o d, t to Mo kto to e n r in enqui re into the habits an d customs of th uns . Acco d g to his report he found that the sisters did make use of such ri eri es as reci us urs armen s sil alua le rin s f pp p o f , g t of k, v b g

c es l re er he un a th broo h of go d and silver. Mo ov fo d th t e young priores s was much too intimate with certain gentlemen and cleri es the nei ur not nl all in em of ghbo hood, o y ow g th to isi her in r bu en ura in the nuns un er her are v t sec et, t co g g d c

ee her mmuni in r er i e u eari n fine to k p co ty o d , to g v p w g l es and a e e er in a mi no m re en it in c oth , bov v yth g to d t o m w h her wa i i in hi s lls. At wh ch nteres ting po t t scan dalous story

On the other side of the Nidd from Nun Monkton lies the am us a lefiel ars n r the scene one f o b tt d of M to Moo , of of the fierces t and most decisive engagements ever fought

on En li s s il. ere on 2nd 16 the alis g h o H July , 44, Roy t arm un er the ar uis e as le and the arli amen y d M q of N wc t , P t ari ans under Sir Thomas Fai rfax and the Earl of Man ches ter wi se r e li r r ell was servin met in a ( th who fo c O ve C omw g) , om a i ri maril in en e eci e the a e c b t wh ch , p y t d d to d d f t of r en esi e e e arliamen ari an arm did in Yo k, th b g d by th P t y, reality settle the ques tion of Royal supremacy so far as rks i re was on e The arli amen ari ans num ere Yo h c c rned. P t , who b d en th usan d se usan rse ere rawn tw ty o d foot an ven tho d ho , w d 8 T 4 HE ENCHANTING NORTH . up on the 1i si ng ground (the ex act lines may easily be

ur h usan e ace em rom he osite si fo t o d ls s foot, f d th f t opp de of the long ditch which ran from Long Marston into the e ec Ea r e was wn on Syk B k. ch fo c dra up sloping ground ;

fille i mus rs The i no i n un i se en d w th ketee . fight d d t beg t l v

si es ell on the ewar r e s a i n un er r d f N k Ho s , t t o ed, d Lo d

- wa r i n flan . But on half y to Yo k. Th s was o the wes t k

heir nen s un er ai r ax and even and had ut t oppo t d F f L , p ’ t em i hile ai r ax s ere merciles sl s h to fl ght, w F f foot w y hot

all was er and Mars n r was runnin i bl . ov , to Moo g w th ood trenches round about Wilstrop Wood and in the field called White e l se n re slain in Syk C o , over four thousa d men we t is san uinar en un er memen es i in the s a e h g y co t , to of wh ch h p of rusted weapons and bullets are turned up by the spade or l u t is p o gh to h day.

No traveller who follows the many windings of the Nidd in its lower stretches should forget to visit the famous oak ree at C w or e en a e lar es and t o th p , g er lly held to be th g t l es oak in En lan Its n es ima e at o d t g d. age has bee t t d ears and n i e ll y , though the tru k is now qu t ho ow, se eral its ran es r is r v of b ch bea plenty of leaf. It over fo ty COWTHORPE OAK . 49

a un re ears a o it was i e a feet in height ( h d d y g tw c th t) ,

at the height of five feet its pri nci pal branch is over si x ty ee in len and it is nsi ered n ai n se en - hree f t gth, co d to co t v ty t th old re e was in the ull ma es tons of timber. When e t f j ty of its strength (which must have been a few centuries ago ) its leafy branches ex t ended a protecti on from the sun to a e er uman ein s a le Or s ee ot un er em wh t v h b g , c tt h p g d th acre over an area which ex ceeded at least half an .

In the stretches of the Nidd between Cowthorpe and

i re han rdi nar in eres and s ul wh ch are of mo t o y t t, ho d i s unsin re certai nly be seen by lovers of rural localit e . At H go

— o ax n a s but Castle which appears to date fr m S o d y , of n a i h In the ur which o uthent c information is to be ad. ch ch ir ei on r a us a le on of K k D ght the e is curi o t b t of wood, ic a vers i n e n an men s ri r t a wh h o of th Te Comm d t , p o to h t 160 is ain i n n it s me remar a le of 3, p ted, compa y w h o k b

the ri i nal Ri s n i in ree rai se r m see rou o g b to P pp t , d f o d b ght fr m rman two un re o ere the ni s o No dy h d d years ag . H K ght em lars had a re e r an in a el ere and in T p p c pto y, d the ch p h the adj acent church of Golds borough there are monuments and efi i es hi c are g w h well worth a visit. Knares borough is to the Nidd what Ri chmond is to the ale and arnar astle the In i one the Sw B d C to Tees . tself of m st i tures ue wns in the it en s a s len i o p c q to country, joy p d d and r manti si uati n lo in a e the o c t o , over ok g fine str tch of ri er i is ere of nsi era l i and ws enea v , wh ch h co d b e w dth, flo b th a wealth of green wood and grey rock such as no other r s i re ri r can s a In s me res e Yo k h ve how t any one point . o p cts the stret ch of scenery between the two bri dges at Knares — ’ borough is not to be equalled given Richmond s cas tle in from the path near the Dropping Well would bear 0 THE E 5 NCHANTING NORTH . m ari s n i an t in its sor in Euro e . As i i co p o w th y h g of t p t s , anyone with a keen perception of beauty must needs love li n er here—the s t s a e the trees the r wn ri to g of h d of , b o ver, the re masses limes ne ra the i ures ue g y of to c g, p ct q houses looking as if th ey would fall headlong into the stream eneat the ruins the old astle on the summi t b h, of C t, se — sharply agai nst the sky-li ne all thes e things help to make

Knaresborough h as more histori cal and roman tic associ ati ons an al s an in r th o th mo t y town Yorkshire. Aft e e N rman o n ues i was i en erl d ur and asse r m C q t t g v to S o e B g, p d f o

his amil a . n d r m it the Estot f y to th t of St Joh , an f o to e villas ere the m s er ul ar ns is is ri t , who w o t pow f b o of th d t c , en a e i an l n ra unt almos th v ry w ld d o ely t ct of co y, t en i r o the rman as l t ely covered by deep f res ts . Of No C t e which they built not a trace remains the present ruins are all that is left of the Castle built duri ng the fourteenth and fifteen n uri n e n ur and lan s the th ce t es , whe th ho o d of Estotevilles had become part and parcel of the Duchy of an as i a the mur erers mas e e L c ter. It is sa d th t d of Tho B ck t, r is an er ur fled ere for re u e and remai ne A chb hop of C t b y , h f g d in the Castle for some time under the protection of its

ern r u de rville. ere Ri ar . was e gov o , H gh Mo H ch d II k pt

ri s n rem al n efra . elan p o er for a time before his ov to Po t ct L d ,

in the six een n ur un the as le a e ele en t th ce t y, fo d C t to h v v i or twelve towers in the walls and one (the keep) w thin . Of all this there is but a part of the keep and an occas ional ra m Ex en l situa e for e en e f g ent of masonry left . cell t y t d d f c , having a precipitous fall to the ri ver on one side and a ee n i and the lan nares r u as le d p moat betwee t d, K bo o gh C t t e i i War held out for the King for six weeks during h C v l . s i 16 and ur ears la er was isman le It urrendered n 44, fo y t d t d, e having already suffered much during a heavy bombardm nt .

Knares borough is closely associ ated with the family of lin s one of the man rea or shi re uses ic S g by, y g t Y k ho wh h RE KNA SBOROUGH . 5 1 supported the Royalis t cause with such fervour during the en imes the i il War turbul t t of C v . Amongst the curiosities

a e een rn Si r enr i n s a ar n r h v b wo by H y Sl g by t M sto Moo . In the ur is th e m is Si r enr was ch ch to b of th H y, who e ea e in 16 8 and man t ers hi s use am n s b h d d 5 , of y o h of ho , o g t them being a particularly fine altar-tomb to the memory of inspection of the church will notice that the stones of the er l as if e had n is u the tow ook th y bee burnt . This d e to fact that duri ng th e Scotti sh foray of 1318 the men from er the r er urs u n nares r u and findi n a ov bo d b t po K bo o gh, g th t the inha i an s had a en re u e in the ur er ile b t t t k f g ch ch tow , p d up straw and timber around it with the idea of burning them out .

The name of a remarkable natural phenomenon and the names of four people are always associ ated with Knares or u — the ro in ell Eu ene ram er hi on b o gh D pp g W , g A , Moth S pt ,

o n e al e and . R er and one m sa a eal J h M tc f St ob t , ight y good d a all em is i l a an ne bout of th . It inconce vab e th t yo should whi ch has been a source of mys tification to various generations

r m a er rem e s a e our r . is urse f o v y ot t g of histo y It , of co , sai be a e ri in ell nin s ne the e s d to p t fy g w , tur g to to obj ct ’ —old a s ir s nes ts l es s in s and so ou h t , b d , g ov , tock g ,

e osi e un er its e er-flowin a er in s em a t the d p t d d v g w t ; t f c , st eam is s r n l im re na e it ar na e lime t o g y p g t d w h c bo t of , which gradually encrusts thes e things and gi ves them the a earan e s one elan seein it in the six een pp c of t . L d , g t th en ur was au i as a he sai it e e c t y, c t ous to wh t d of ; D fo , isi in it in the ei n a aren l elie e in its v t g ghtee th , pp t y b v d e ri in r e es b as mu s ruc the p t fy g p op rti , ut w ch t k by musi al in i nklin i the a er ma e and c k d of t g wh ch w t d , by the n n e ell fi ures cheerful and pleasi g sce e in which th w g . Close to the well is the cave of that mysteri ous person er hi n sai be the ofls rin the E il One Moth S pto , d to p g of v 2 THE E H 5 NC ANTING NORTH . and a t lass n of coun y . There seems to be o doubt that rsula hi n was a real ers na e rn at nares r u U S pto p o g , bo K bo o gh a u the end the fi een en ur and t a she l bo t of ft th c t y , h t fore to d , at an ra e the n all ar inal lse an y t , dow f of C d Wo y d the iss luti n th R u B i D o o of e eligious Ho ses . ut t surely needed little intui tion or pres ci ence at that time to foretell events i an n wi a s re e e ul resee e wh ch yo e th h wd y co d fo . Th proba bility is that Mother Shipton was neither more nor less . an a een- i e Yorkshi rewoman ul l in th k w tt d , who co d ook to the u ra f ture ther more clearly than most folk.

In a les ser degree there is as strange an element of

‘ m s er a u Eu ene ram as a u t er i n y t y bo t g A bo t Mo h Sh pto . His name is considerably mix ed up with Nidderdale and nares r u but et he was reall a ui l man o K bo o gh, wh her y g ty r not no one a e e i e er ai n el ers and will ever be bl to d c d . C t d v diggers into the history of hi s sad li fe are confident that he was innocent of the crime charged agai nst him ; others are s i i The le en ar E en as ure that he was gu lty of t . g d y ug e ’ Aram of Lord Lytton s mawkish romance bears little ’ res emblance to the real Aram ; Tom Hood s usher is a ’ r a r the an Eu ene or as he is c e tu e of poet s f cy. g ( descri bed in er ai n re is ers Eu enius ram was rn at ams i l c t g t , g ) A bo R g l , in id er ale in 1 0 hi s a er ein ardener S N d d , 7 4, f th b g g to ir

E ar Black t e . He was e u a e at urnsall dw d e , of N wby d c t d B , n the en ri ars n and in hi s i Wharfedale , by ecc t c p o , Adcock, youth was employed as a clerk in London . But he was so n in i er ale and was for a ime tu r Sir o back N dd d , t to to a He marrie a i er ale Willi am Craven at Gowthwaite H ll. d N dd d man nn n at i lesm r in the ear the wo , A e Spe ce , M dd oo , h t of al In 1 h e a mo es sc l in Whi e rse d e . 734 e s t up d t hoo t Ho ar na s rou and seems r m a one can a er Y d, K re bo gh, f o wh t g th n u for his n u and learnin to have bee m ch res pected co d ct g, i was nsi e In nares r u he made wh ch co d rable . K bo o gh two

- flax r e n a man un n wn u ati n. d es ser, th seco d of k o occ p o

THE E 5 4 NCHANTING NORTH .

Abbey and the townspeople of Knares borough came to l ws er the ues ti n the is osal his remains b o ov q o of d p of , which were eventually buried under the floor of the chapel

rdin t adition a m a l - r in oil use Acco g to , ir c e wo k g d to flow r m his m a e er ma the t ut ese le en s f o to b . Wh t v y be h of th g d i i i t s a historical fact that St . Robert was of h gh sanctity and rea re u e in his own ime and e ame so am us g t p t t , b c f o i i that K ng John made a speci al journey to see h m.

If one were to make compari son between the various

ell- n wn e le nne e i es rou one ul w k o p op co ct d w th Knar bo gh, wo d i e the alm n e al e e er n n the g v p to Joh M tc f , b tt k ow to county as Bli nd Jack of Knaresboroug This man was certai nly one of the most st i king ex amples of what human rtitu e u i n and tien in the a e fo d , res ol t o pa ce can do f c of

a cir ums an e . H s i at the a e six dverse c t c e lo t his s ght g of , yet at the end of a very long li fe he could t uthfully say that he knew his way about h is native county far better than most people whose eyes ight was unimpaired. He firs t earned his li ving by fiddling ; later On he took to buying and llin ha and ul es ima e th e alue a a s a se g y, co d t t v of h y t ck a ni merel eelin it s ill a er he to cety , y by f g ; t l t took to uil in ri es and e entuall r ad-ma in in i b d g b dg , v y to o k g , wh ch i n h e He made se eral last occupat o e achieved great fam . v

imself a m el en ineer and ne er s in an si ns h od g , v how g y g of i in a a i ecause hi s infirmi . In a t the l ss h s c p c ty b of ty f c , o of sight seemed to trouble him very little . at all he travelled wi surenes s and celeri all the unt and on one th ty over co y, occasion conduct ed a stranger from York to Harrogate by s rt cu s thr u a difi cult unt on a ni so ar ho t , o gh co y, ght d k that the man thus led could scarcely see hi s hand before

Most of the folk who visit Knaresborough go there from

a r - - us H r ogate . Now a days Harrogate is one of the most famo — — — 5 . 13 KNARESBO ROUGH l 4 . BRIMHAM ROCKS 1 . HARROGATE

HARROGATE . 55

u much note as Bath was in the days of Bea Nash. It

i r es se l a ura i e res rt is in reali a a town wh ch, p of d y c t v o , ty in and um -ro ms arr cent s of pleasure. The spr gs p p o of H o a e are le i n and ran e from s r n sul ur mil g t g o , g t o g ph to d a i v firs Sir illiam lin s chalybeate w ter. D sco ered t by W S g by i n entur the firs Harr a e about the end of the s x tee th c y, t og t s i n e am Harre ate sa s e e pr ng soo becam f ous . At g , y D fo , “ a small village two miles distant (from Knaresborough)

E lan Springs are the most valuable rari ties of the kind in ng d . The firs is the ee a or a i ri li a er t Sw t Sp w, V t o c W t a er o i n in in eral ar i ular is em ers v y S vere g Medic e sev p t c D t p ,

the learned the ul ur ell. his a er is lear as , S ph W T w t c r s al but so e i and nause us the mell a man C y t , f t d o to S th t y are obliged to hold thei r noses when they dri nk it yet it is a alua le Medi i ne in r u i ochondri ac and v b c Sco b t c, Hyp , ’ es e i all in r i is em ers . resen he con lu es p c y Hyd op c D t p At p t, c d , a great deal of Company comes to the Baths at Harre — ” gate and a great deal of Company has continued to me e er sin e i the res ul a the small illa e co v c , w th t th t v g 1 2 has of 7 5 developed into a very considerable town.

From Knares borough the valley of the Nidd continues in rease in eau and att action an to c b ty , d the t aveller who makes hi s headquarters at Harro gate need have no difi culty in findi n a un an ma erial for n i e and i n g b d t t ot c observat o . There are places and scenes of great interes t on both sides the ri er from is in its s ur e and i a of v th po t to o c , t has further value to the archa ologist and student of history in

on the south bank of the Nidd.

most in r in vill i A te es t g age, w th more than one feature n te is un in Ri le the an i en sea of the In ilb of o , fo d p y, c t t g ys , 6 THE E I H 5 NCHANT NG NORT .

one the l es r s i re amilies . ere is a a of o d t Yo k h f H c stle , a c ur and a li le n ell r ex aminin are h ch , tt tow w wo th g c fully, and the si tua i n all ree is s ri in an i t o of th t k g d p cturesque. The as le se fine ar ens o er an the i c t , who g d v h g N dd, dates r six eent n ur ere li f om the t h ce t y . H O ver Cromwell spent the ni i n the a le ars n M r ght preced g b tt of M to oo . The then lord the la e Sir illiam In ilb was a a at the ime an of p c , W g y, w y t , d hi s i e alle u n to be an un illin s ess w f , c d po w g ho t to the

l f ols i la e t coup e o pis t d sp y d a her belt. He and she spent what must have been a somewhat wearying night in the rea all Of the astle the la a hi n the is ur e g t h c , dy w tc g d t b r of

li er sle or not the r ni lers not ell us but i O v pt ch o c do t , t is e a a a In ilb id not and she sen off he c rt in th t L dy g y d , t r he had shown the slightes t discourtes y she would have shot us s — i m him on the spot. A curi o tory wh ch see s to show that the future Lord Protector knew how to behave himself rather better in the presence of a determi ned woman than n in h l ni u e he did later o t e p e t d of his power. — In the church of Ripley a very fine specimen of the — Decorated style of architecture there is a remarkably good al ar - m ere n are the efi i es Sir mas In ilb t to b, wh o g of Tho g y, a Justice of the Court of Common Pleas in the time of

and his i e ame at erine . In the ni Edward III . , w f , D C h ches

— which also contai ns the remai ns of a weeping-cross one of E the very few left in ngland.

am thwaite a li le urt er alon the alle is am us H m , tt f h g v y, f o n the ri inal me the a era s ro eni rs as bei g o g ho of Th ck y , p g to of n elist and as the scene of the la urs e er the gre at ov , bo of P t the lin ar en er was in his wa ui e as Barker, b d c p t , who y q t n a er was in much of a genius as Joh Metc lfe . Pet so adept BRIMHAM ROCKS . 5 7

r in in r i u difi cult and u n one o d ary jo ery wo k w tho t y, po occasion he took the church clock enti rely to pieces and put it together agai n as skilfully as if he had the use of his

e i li le see at a re a small manu a urin Th re s tt to D c , f ct g village whi ch is simply notable because it was the first place n En lan erea was s un ma iner but i in i g d wh t tow p by ch y, w th three miles to the northward li es the stretch of land covered

f - by the fantasti c and ar famed Bri mham Rocks . These ex t aordinar r u s s ne res em lin ari us animals y g o p of to , b g v o , i t e mai ns a u e bed mills one ri are in real y th re of h g of t g t,

i in a on - ea a e ere the m rlan erea u s wh ch l g d d g cov d oo d h bo t , and w ra u orn a a ice and a er The s a es as g d ally w w y by w t . h p — of these remai ns are st angely peculi ar here one comes a r ss the ima e an a e ere a r ere a ai n c o g of p , th of f og, h g of a x n s remar a le all ese an asti yoke of o e . Mo t k b of th f t c ’ res ults of Nature s slow work is that known as th e Dan cing mi n o ear hi h s ands out r en l am n s the res . B , w c t p o t y g t t Not

s nes i are so finel alan e a e can to , wh ch y b c d th t th y be moved ’ easil th e an . r m the rui s a e hr u in y by h d F o D d C v , t o gh w dow O eni n s in the r ere are fin i e h like p g ock, th e v ws of t e n in un r ere one s an s at ei surrou d g co t y. H t d a h ght of close u n a usan ee and the ale of r ro po tho d f t, V Yo k lls away from ma Bri mh am is al e one like an unfolded p . tog ther a place of ” si nifi an e and n e is di fi cult sa s r ess r illi s g c c ot It , y P of o Ph p , in his ell- n n r on the e l r s ire w k ow wo k g o ogy of Yo k h , to conceive circumstances of inanimate nature more s fl ecting to th e contemplati ve mi nd than th e strange forms and ” a coun a le m ina i ons of es e i an i mas un c t b co b t th g g t c s es .

In hi s sonne on the R c l at Brimh am E n t o k Ido , be ezer

Elli the Com -law Rh rner re ers the old ott, y , f to belief that thes e formations were of Druidic origi n 5 8 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

Stone I did the hand of sacerdotal fraud is vital t e of thi n s Shape thee i nto th yp g ,

Aroun th for a worl of sha eless hosts d ee , d p g Vai nl the rise efore me callin u y y b , g p Kin s and th ei r mas ters and ima i ne hosts g , g d , ’ s What then l th e heath - flower s cu That fight for cloud . p Wi w s f s is fountain ever ear th de drop eed th d , “ And the winged ouzel whi stles God is here !

there are no signs of any Druidical work here

s n the ear i er ale at a ele ri e One get i to h t of N dd d P t y B dg , hi small a la e as it is is re ar e as the a i al w ch, p c , g d d c p t of i nei nor so s ri in as the district . Wh le ther so ex tensive t k g e the m re n rt erl ales i er ale ssesses s me som of o o h y d , N dd d po o hi i as the very fine scenery , w ch becomes stem and w ld

e uarri e lea ere at a er earl eri an i is hav q d d h v y y p od, d t

eir wa the an s the i r n th y to b k of N dd f om Cornwall. Iro s one uildi n s ne and m un ai n limes ne are un t , b g to , o t to fo d

ri e att active. ewerle all l se e an ien sea B dg B y H , c o by, th c t t of the r es has mu a is in erestin and s an s in Yo k , ch th t t g, t d

ascen the eleva e r un calle Gu sclifl r m en e d to t d g o d d y , f o wh c

is ertai nl one the mos a ra i ve i r le c y of t tt ct parts of N dde da , and in sharp cont est to the utilitarianism which speedily meet one in the shape of the new reservoirs of the Bradford

60 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

phenomena known as Swallows Goyden Pot and Man ches ter Hole cavernous Openi ngs into which the river

isa ears me si a ai n at a nsi era le is an e . d pp , to co to ght g co d b d t c On ean e ere is s me eli ul scener a How St B ck th o d ghtf y, ’ a ern name E li n s le an d or ree a er alls c v d g Ho , two th w t f , whose rocky sides are liberally furnished with fern and n e es r m reme en er moss of ma y vari ti . F o this ex t d of Nidd dale also one ma isi the am us stala i e a erns at , , y v t f o ct t c v um r ss i ere a i en all i sc ere in 1860 St p C o , wh ch w cc d t y d ov d

the lea - miners and ha e een ex l re for a is an e by d , v b p o d d t c of

- All ese in are set in the three quart ers of a mile . th th gs mi s il s li u es m r ea an d m un ain i d t of w d o t d of oo , h th o t , wh ch form one of the fines t stretches of silence and lonelines s in the un in s i e the a a it ma now be a r a e co ty, p t of f ct th t y pp o ch d by a light railway recently cons tructed by the Corporati on ra r and runnin r m a ele of B dfo d, g f o P t y to C A H PTER V.

The Wharfe and Wharfedale .

F one took a poll on the question of the vari ous degrees of ulari the r shi re ri ers it is airl sa e pop ty of Yo k v , f y f to predict that the Wh arfe would not merely come in an easy

inner but a inner a an s me ma ri . ma be w , w by h d o jo ty It y that the Wh arfe is so popular because it is so access ible : Leeds folk and Bradford folk can step out of their own e on its an s and l n e and its r man i hous s to b k , Bo to Abb y o t c

is nl e ualle and cert ainl not out-ri all e e o y q d, y v ed , by th fin o a un ai ns ne the ales e so ld ruins t Fo t . No of d ar well n n as Wh ar e ale nor so easil a essi le an d n ne k ow f d , y cc b , o of the other Yorkshi re rivers are more interes ting as regards places of notability present upon their ban ks than the ar e rue the Wh ar e ann as a Ri m n or Wh f . T , f c ot bo t ch o d a nares r u but for as ral scener infini e arie K bo o gh, p to y, t v ty, an in laces a n er ul m inati n ri er and d, p , wo d f co b o of v wood lan scener it is r ein lasse i the d y, wo thy of b g c d w th Wye and the Tweed . 62 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

Close upon the junction of the Wh arfe with the Ouse — lies Cawood one of the most histori c of the smaller market

Q n i z in i r tow of ts si e the county. P ctu es quely situated on a t i an le lan rme the n uen e the ri ers g of d fo d by co fl c of two v , it is r seein for its er an mea ws its old wo th g v d t do , houses , its as le an d The r c t its church. A chbishops of York had a ala e ere for s me ime re i us the rman n ue p c h o t p v o to No Co q st,

usur e it in a ur. i ala e cas ella e urin p d f vo Th s p c , t t d d g the rei n enr was the scene of the ar an uan g of H y IV . , G g t an ue i en e r e e ille r is r b q t g v by G o g N v , A chb hop of Yo k, to the rea l the un in n r his nse ra n g t fo k of co ty, ho ou of co c tio it was the s ene a mu m re seri us is ri al c , too, of ch o o h to c e en —the arres ar inal lse en r ish v t t of C d Wo y, th A chb op, by

the Earl r um rlan on the ar e i h reas n. of No th be d, ch g of h g t o ere is e e a as le now ex e the a el Th littl l ft of C wood C t , c pt ch p

and the a e- use but ere are t a es its un a i ns g t ho , th c of fo d t o , and of the ponds from whi ch fis h was drawn for the table of e i M th r s s m one at leas Dr. ountai ne A chb hop , of who t , g , was a nati e the n and is urie in the r on v of tow , b d chu ch

Few places in this part of Yorkshire are more interes ting s u en s the ix een en ur t an Nun le n to t d t of s t th c t y h App to ,

the li e and r unes the or air ax a er his f fo t of L d F f who, ft l n ser i in iv W re i r ere and u ie his o g v ce the C il ar, t ed h occ p d leisure i hi s i manus ri s an d his ins and w th books , h s c pt , co m n w e als i a am s lle i . as at d , of wh ch he had f ou co ct o It Nun Appleton that Lord Fai rfax and General Monk di scussed and se tle the Of the es rati n and the rse use t d terms R to o , ho d arles in m his en in on n ame r m by Ch II . aking t y to L do c f o the f s i a er fine ar famed Nun Appleton tud. There s v y altar-tomb in memory of Lord Fai rfax and hi s wife (the Lady Fairfax who made some very pertinent and scathing 6 TOWTON . 3

a i ar . in ur at il r u remarks t the t al of Ch les I ) the ch ch B bo o gh, i an e r m Nun le n and ere are se eral a little d st c f o App to , th v n en in the C l n r i sel a Fairfax mo um ts hurch of Bo to Pe cy, t f notable show-place which dates from the early part of the r fifteenth centu y.

u ese la es but at no rea dis ance r m the So th of th p c , g t t f o ar e lies the a lefiel n ere on the alm Wh f , b tt d of Towto , wh , P n 1 61 e een an d En lis men Su day of 4 , b tw g h , i i in r is s an Lancas i ans ell ar un the li tle d v ded to Yo k t d t , f o d t i is a village of Sax ton and in the adj acent meadows . Th s m m e in in t a un an ars n r uch or teres t g ct of co t y th M to Moo , and the actual site of the engagement is picturesque an d roman i dl en u in the en re the e a e t c. Od y o gh, c t of d b t d r un re i e red an i e r ses an d l al g o d the s a thick t of d wh t o , oc tradi tion naturally enough has it that these sprang into ein a a le rea m mar the laces ere b g fter the b tt . G t ounds k p wh the slai n ere uri e in ea s and un re s the n a ili i es w b d h p , h d d of ot b t the uri e in ax n ur ar but ere is of day are b d S to Ch chy d, th ardl a t a e ei r m s i the ex e i n ha h y c of th to b , w th c pt o of t t to have been shot by a country lad who had concealed hi i an - mself n elder bush .

ere a small n erea u s on the harfe Th re two tow s h bo t W , a as er and e er w i are laces ak e T dc t W th by, h ch good p to t ’ ne s in in a le old- rl inns but o ease ( roomy, comfort b , wo d ), not ar a l for in eres or ass i ati n u very rem k b e t t oc o , tho gh neither are without antiquari an and historical interes t Tadcas ter was certai nly the Calcari a of the Roman occupa ti n an in its i ini at e tleman ri e ere is s ill o , d v c ty, K t B dg , th t

n r is t ere mu see at tow has little to show. No h ch to e er e n its fine ri e er the Whar e its Old W th by, b yo d b dg ov f ,

as i ned i now alf- eser e but us en u urin f h o nns , h d t d, b y o gh d g the a in -da s and its su es i n i mes and us ms co ch g y , gg t o of t c to whi ch are as dead as Queen Anne . THE E 64 NCHANTING NORTH .

Much more interesting than either of these towns is the illa e are i its an i en ur old as tle an d v g of H wood, w th c t ch ch, c , rea use the unt sea Earl are g t ho , co y t of the of H wood. Here once more one gets into close relationship with feudal and i e o med s tim s . After the Conques t the ld Sax on manor was i en the Romellis r m m it finall g v to , f o who y pass ed to ” illiam de l e ur se m t W a s all be s all W A d b gh, who ot o , h t h , h , is still to be seen surmounting hi s coat-oi -arms in the old stronghold which he built and was permi tted to forti fy in

1 6 . was a er ar s el the as i nes and en 3 7 It ft w d h d by G co g , th the Wentworths and a ter the ivil War en it had by , f C , wh een i sman tled it was u Sir n u ler the b d , bo ght by Joh C t ,

Cutler saw tenants break and ho uses fall For very want he could not build a we ll ’ Hi s only daughter in a s t a nger s power F or very want he could not p ay a dower A few grey hairs his reverend t emples crowned ’ Twas very want that sold them for two po und l ’ What e en denie a cor i al at hi s end d d , Banis h ed the doctor and ex p elled the fri end P What b ut a want —which ou erha s thi nk mad y p p , — Yet numbers feel the want of what he had I

The ari sh ur are a fine edifi e eau i ull p ch ch of H wood, c , b t f y e i am us for its llecti n m numen s the k pt, s f o co o of o t of as i ne amil am n s i l vers ramati s enes G co g f y, o g t wh ch o of d c c in history will be glad to find the tomb of the great Chi ef ' us i e the in s en Sir illiam as i ne J t c of K g B ch, W G co g , who

mmi e enr . en rin e ales ris n for co tt d H y V wh P c of W , to p o

o are in 1 60 ere is a fine c llec i n first L rd H wood 7 , th o t o of side of the lak e near the house there once stood an old mansi n all a t r all erein h mas en r o c ed G w ho pe H , wh T o W two th, the am Earl Straflord was n s endi n f ous of , very fo d of p g whatever lei sure he could snatch from his st annous li fe THE WASHBURN . 65

In the valle enea are ar e ale e in y b th H wood, Wh f d b g s to O en out and the an un p , ri ver is fl ked by high gro d on both si es but es eciall on the s ut ere the l n r nin d , p y o h, wh o g f ow g ’ mass of Rombald s Moor is seen canopying Ilkley in the

dis an e . Alm st si e are o is a i ile r t c o oppo t H w od h gh p of ock , er e on t e an emi nen e hi is n p ch d h top of c , w ch k own as ’ rea lms Clifl . his rises a ei 16 ee and G t A T to h ght of 7 f t , , l en u a ani n ile similar rma i n i odd y o gh, comp o p of fo t o , wh ch s an s hree miles a a an d is nearl a un re and wen t d t w y, y h d d t ty ’ ee hi er is all i le lms li ff. r m ar f t gh , c ed L tt A C F o both these e

e ween r i n ere one s an in i si ble line B t A th ngto , wh cro ses v in a new s ecies s ener and l n ri e re one to p of c y, Bo to B dg , whe

a e as li . Th n hi ri e le vall y of p toral de ght e lo g, gh dg of Ot y Chevin ri ses boldly on one side the green slopes and thi ck asur the r woods of Farnley give ple e to the eye upon othe . But e re a van in ur er al n the an s the arfe b fo d c g f th o g b k of Wh , at thi s point one should cert ai nly turn aside at P001 to

surrounde li le s i in its u er rea es has een d tt t eam, wh ch pp ch b swallowed up by the lake-li ke res ervoirs of the Leeds Co r wi thal as whimsical as any rivulet that wanders in and out of lichened boulders under the shade of trees and under i urri m the ar e growth could be . Where t h es to eet Wh f s an s a hl one the m s i ur ue illa es in t d Le t ey, of o t p ct esq v g r e a ur wi a fin an er Yo kshir . Here is ch ch th e Norm tow of very early date ; the remai ns of the old stocks ; and a

re re e as far as e s n ere li e g t following this vall y F w to , wh v d

E war ai rfax first t anslated ass in En lis . d d F , who T o to g h

a ne the rea s - laces and m st F rnley Hall, o of g t how p o re in uses har edale l s u n the n er inte st g ho of W f , ook dowp po v es the as u 'n from the ridge of high ground w t of W hb r . It 66 HE ENCHANTIN T G NORTH . was is use the an i en sea the a es amil to th ho , c t t of F wk f y , a me so r uentl r i . M . urner a e and un e ts th t J . W T c f q y , d

- roof that he pai nted so many of hi s finest water colours . ’ Although a portion of the collection of the great artis t s

it at arnle in lu in a rea man rks ire body of F y, c d g g t y Yo h i u m es arnle i sel p ct res and so e studi of F y t f. But the house als o ai ns man er art reasures a elas uez a o c nt y oth t , V q , u e n l and in it are s ill res er the hat R bens , a R y o ds , t p ved , li m a n r sword and watch worn by O ver Cro well t Mars to Moo , n and the swords of Fai rfax and Presto .

In the church of Otley (which beyond being the principal market town in Lower Wharfedale and poss ess ing a few interesting buildings is not particularly noticeable ) are some

fine m numen airfax es awkes es and a as urs . o ts to F , F V v o ere is a mas the firs or ai r ax an d his H th t of Tho , t L d F f , of la elen s e se ir ues are mmem ra e in a dy, H A k , who v t co o t d curious distich

’ ’ Here Le ah s fruitfulnees here Rachael s eaut , b y, ’ ' Here wi th Re e cca s fai th here Sarah s ut b , d y.

The mar e la e ere is u i n an d the i the k t p c h q a t, v ew of e in seen r m its mi s er im ressi e es iall on Ch v , f o d t, v y p v , pec y a lo m da en the u mass seems u g o y y, wh h ge to shut o t th e rl the s u ar as i wo d to o thw d w th an unscaleable wall.

There are several villages of interes t and note on the an s the ar e w w b k of Wh f bet een Otley an d Ilkley . Burley as for some time the res idence of the late William Edward rs er the s a es man lies i n the nei urin urc Fo t , t t , who ghbo g ch h

ar of ens n . ere is li l in its is t r bu it use y d M to Th tt e h o y, t d to be the scene once in every seven years of a species of satumalia the urle rea u in hi enerall , B y G t P dd g, w ch g y r u ed some i er i an no p od c d v t ng d t seldom discredi table scenes . An enormous puddi ng of flour and fruit (thi rty or forty s ones the rmer ein used was ak e i t of fo b g ) b d w th ceremony, and when done was dis tri buted to the mob under the

K E IL L Y . 67

h n h i great elm t ee in t e ce tre of t e v llage. But as it seldom was done and was generally little more than

than Burley are two histori c places on the opposite ban k the ri er— es n the an i en sea the avasours of v W to , c t t of V , where there is preserved a collection of old family documents and an ri inal rtrai li er r m ell and Danton o g po t of O v C o w ; , the h ai r ax amil for n i home of t e F f f y four ce tur es . Here Rupert of the Rhine slept on the night preceding the battle

the- wa s ure ale villa e is now a m ern leasure y, ob c d g , od p

lace mu h in a ur i he ell- - mer han p , c f vo w th t w to do c ts of eeds an find it n enien in m r L d Bradford, who co v t o e ways

an one . has a er ai n re u a i n as an inlan s a th It c t p t t o d p , an d s me i h drO athi c es a lis men s su as a a o of ts y p t b h t , ch th t t Ben in hi has as mu re en i usnes s as a Rhydd g, w ch ch p t t o

erman as le are nsi era le size . But the rea alue G c t , of co d b g t v

eat er- la m rlan nd in the fine scener ic li of h h c d oo d , a y wh h es

all r un i . ern as it l o s now the la e is an i o d t Mod o k , p c c ent en u . was the Oli cana the mans s andi n on o gh It of Ro , t g a road which in all probabili ty ran from Ribchester to l r M e ms a e s n A dbo ough. The p s e to h v tood o the site of the res en ur and ere is a ra men man al p t ch ch, th f g t of Ro w l s ill Th i t to be seen in Close prox imi ty . e church tself is of onsi era le a e an e ur ar is mu h isi e th c d b g , d th ch chy d c v t d by e ” curi ous because of the three crosses which are set up near the s u ese u u re- rman o th door. Th , witho t do bt of p No ri in are r ru e re res en ati ns ir s men o g , cove ed with d p t o of b d ,

ale an h k em en a a i he re u n d , d e spea s of th th s h v ng t p tatio ein s of b g very old work .

The moorland scenery on the high ground above Ilkley a i - is s striking as the moorland a r is li fe giving. From the 68 THE ENCHANTING NORTH.

’ long ridge of Rombald s Moor there are wide- spreading views of the mountains at the head of Whar fedale and i er ale an d er the le el lain r th N dd d , ov v p of Yo k to e Wolds

e n . hi s m or a rdi le en its n b yo d T o , cco ng to g d, took ame r m a ian Rombald a ure it a f o g t , who f vo d good deal. The lar e l ne at its eas ern end n n g b ock of sto t , k ow as the al w i lies at the the mass r call C f, h ch foot of of ock ed the ears an in en a i n i is sai be an im i Cow, b d t t o wh ch d to mnt the e ian in fairin a s ri e r m h of foot of th g t, who, g t d f o t e ’ rea Clifl se eral miles awa r e the Cow to G t Alms , v y, b ok

al fl - C f O and sent it rolling down the hill side . Much more profitable than to lis ten to these Old- wife tales is it to ex plore some of the gills and waterfalls whi ch cut through the slapes hereabouts or to visit the Old house of the e er amil ere t ere is s ill be seen a i ure of H b f y, wh h t to p ct ha an li w t ancient farmstead was ke . — and its thousand beauti es fro m Ilkley by rail to Bolton r u di n am and on f wa Abbey, by road th o gh Ad gh , oot by y

sl The la -name is m of Nesfield and Beam ey . st d ost to be i alm preferred by folk who love walk ng . At ost all seasons of the ear and in ee at all imes the ear ar y , d d t of y to h dy es t i ans the ri er and dlan s ener is s re ped , v woo d c y of th t tch of W f i li But i e u the h ar e s de ghtful. by wh ch ver ro te the urne is ma e an ra eller is es en the ull jo y d , y t v who w h to joy f glories of Bolton should insist on mak ing his entrance to the domain in which they are situated at Bolton Bridge

ra n at n er ent ance . ll in the ar e ther tha a y oth Fo ow g Wh f , ro n i rlin ri er s all an d a s n bed here a b w , sw g v , h ow, of to y , n ca l -st e ar one a r ac es the an ien alo g the tt e ock d p k, pp o h c t

formed in the leafy tracery of the t ees ; glimpses of a ruined a le a ismantle er a ear a ed a lue g b , d d tow pp , b ck by b

h old m na i wer as r sw r calle it is t e o st c to , Wo d o th d , BOLTON PRIORY . 69 re eale in all the eau of its s l an se in an v d b ty y v tt g. Not m y scenes in England are as lovely as thi s or so full of charm

the foundati on of Bolton Pri ory to th e gri ef ex perienced by a e e er se nl n ne at the ri d vot d moth who o y so was drow d St d, i er u the ri er the u i a of a h gh p v , by s dden hang ng b ck

em hi le en in - m i i be body t s g d well known poe s . Yet t s to

is no in but a le en . is one the r a es t the th g g d Th , of g e t of reli i us uses r s ire was a ri r u us inian g o ho of Yo k h , P o y of A g t an ns un ed at Em sa e l n and i n C o , fo d b y, b tween Bo to Sk pto , earl in the wel en ur and it was rem e its y t fth c t y, ov d to resen si e etween 1 1 0 an 1 1 e ame one the p t t b 5 d 60. It b c of m s wer ul ommuni i es in the and one the o t po f c t count y , of — wealthiest about the year 1300 its annual income was

s In i w l flock of shee p. one year alone the sales of ts oo and the r u e i mill and ur ues e ualle p od c of ts s , farms ch ch d q d our was of pres ent currency . Its es tablishment

un r e s a deal from the two h d ed p r ons . It suflered good marau in s ell u n it m r an n e et it d g Scot , who f po o e th o c , y was still a well-to-do house when it was surrendered to the ' i n s mmi ssi ners in 1 at i ime the las its K g Co o 5 39 , wh ch t t of ri rs Ri ar Mo ns r n was uil in the in m lete p o , ch d y , o Moo , b d g co p er at h n tow t e wes t e d.

e li l n en al uil in s but the Ther is tt e left of the co v tu b d g , ur is s ill in ex ell res er ati n and has een ch ch t c ent p v o , b res r un k e ons ir se ro er it to ed der the Du es of D v h e , who p p ty now is . e na e un er the ha el un e At the end of th v , d c p fo d d the Mauleverers is he am us aul erein a c r in by , t f o v t wh , c o d g t adition the mem ers a amil and to , bodi es of b of th t f y, of 70 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

eir su s s rs he Cla hams are urie in a s an in th cce o , t p , b d t d g i in The White Doe o pos tion . Wordsworth refers to this f

through th e chink in t he fractured floor Look down and see a ris l si ht , g y g A vault where t he bodi es are buri ed upright l There face b face and hand b hand , y , y , hams an Maul ver rs s n d The Clap d e e t a .

But there is no record that any human eye has ever seen saw the White Doe come stealing into the green churchyard

The scenery between the Pri ory (around which there are man interes i n i ures ue hi n s be n ed su y t g and p ct q t g to ot , ch as the Old a e a now the en ral ar l n all g t w y, c t p t of Bo to H , the residence of the Duke of Devonshire ; the Rectory ; the Old arn ri r and the a en i s mem rial r ss B of the P o y , C v d h o c o in th ar an d ol er n u e churchy d) the d tow of Barde , further p ’ the ri er is ro a l the fines bit so far as om ina i n v , p b b y t , c b t o o a er and r is n erne hi one can find of wo d, w t ock co c d, w ch ’ in r ir i in two and a al mil ne e i Yo ksh e . W th h f es o s ye s

- an in eli Th treated to ever ch g g d ghts . e Mee ting of the a ers the alle es la i n the er e ual a W t , V y of D o t o , p p t f s cination — of the Stri d ao attractive that some people are never — satisfied until they really have fallen into it the glades and is tas Of the s and the irres is i le msh the amin v wood , t b of fo g

’ on a summer s day are good sights for weari ed eyes an d e i ed rain One is em e li er a l n welcom to t r b s . t pt d to ng o g m ime amon s he and at ar en er als . n er t g t t , B d Tow o No wo d a the or liff r enr the e er th t Good L d C o d (H y, Sh ph d Lord should have loved Barden better than all his other as les an d s ul a e s en the e er art his li e c t , ho d h v p t b tt p of f ere en a e in s ien ifi s u ies in i he was en h g g d c t c t d , wh ch oft assisted by the canons of Bolton Here one is at peace n t in but the m s ea i ul rms a n o h g o t b ut f fo of N ture environ o e . 1 BURNSALL. 7

The har e in s at the he Old ruin e in it W f w d foot of t , b h d ri ses ar en ell e re it im n ea m un ai n -li e in B d F , b fo S o S t , o t k one of the most ideal spots which a lover of peaceful

— — He will be a wise and a well-repai d man who continues his ex ploration of Wharfedale until it is robbed of its side villages on the north side of Barden are delightful la es isi and in m em associa i n p c to v t, ost of th there is some t o or e in eres . A let eewick l in on the illsi e obj ct of t t pp , y g h d n er th in l a u d e jo t protection of Simon Seat an d Ear Se t , was the i r la e Sir illiam ra en ar in out b thp c of W C v , who, st t g ’ r m it as a a ren i e i n r in uen e f o p ri sh p t c w th o means o fl c , e ame or a r on n a mer an rin e and b c L d M yo of L do , ch t p c , a er the firs Earl ra en marrie the ueen f th of t of C v , who d Q

emi a sis er arles . ere is in eres i n ar i of Boh , t of Ch I Th t t g ch e ure and ul in th fin Bumsall t ct sc pture e e old church of , the are se e en ri i ar ohn Eu ene to c of who cc t c v c , J Adcock, g ’ Aram s edu a i n was fi n mad arson c t o con ded. A other p use li e at i ures ue in n er n the dale d to v p ct q L to , furth alo g one mi was so assi a el an in a S th, who p on t y fond of d c g th t he used to go over on periodical visits to Paris to learn the

la es s e s . All ar un ese illa e ere is il s ener t t t p o d th v g s th w d c y , and asi nall fine s re nwar s occ o y t tches of river and wood . O d from Gras singt on the count y becomes more and more

s li ar . ilnse ra a mi r m n r limes ne o t y K y C g, ghty p o o to y of to

i er an s the alle is on the es - n n si s wh ch ov h g v y, e of b t k ow ght in r s ire e uall am us is Dowkabottom a e a s Yo k h q y f o C v , va t a ern in hi the mai ns rime animals e er c v w ch re of p val , tog th with weapons and ornaments of the Roman peri od have been

un in nsi era le uan i i es . r he m un ai ns rea fo d co d b q t t Neare t o t , G t Whernside and u en i e i s in the ale on its B ckd P k , wh ch hut d n r -eas si e are er illa es i seem far out o th t d , oth v g wh ch of the rl — e tle ell ar n u k en all in eres wo d K t w , St botto , B c d , of t t to the traveller who penetrates into these lands of silence and 72 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

’ as ros h ere the Wharfe s s ur e is at las v t p pects . W o c t

is ere on the si e Cam ell ee a e sea-le el d cov d, d of F , f t bov v , one pauses in the mids t of a solitude which it is almost un ann c y to realise .

THE E A 74 NCH NTING NORTH .

ar the un r an tra eller ill be ise for e p t of co t y y v w w , th y both aff r ex ellen a omm a i n and are m re er o d c t cc od t o , o ov so well provided with railway facili ties that only very brief journeys are neces sary in most cases to bring the tourist in touch i ha h w th w t e desires to see . A very pleasant diversity of scener is ai ne seein the elmsle un r firs y obt d by g H y co t y t , and the i eri n is ri af er ar s—th e firs is r man i P ck g d t ct t w d t o t c , as ral i all rural i a undan e i en of p to , typ c y , w th b t v d ce life ;

- the se n is il s li ar and en awe s ri i n . co d w d, o t y , oft t k g

I — R AB T H . OUND OU E LMSLEY.

Helmsley is one of those little market towns which one can find n ere in the rl b t in En an ere is a owh wo d u gl d. Th mar e s uare ere is an old astle ere are old uses k t q , th c , th ho and old fas hioned inns ; tall elms stand sentinel above uman a i a ions and a murmuri n stream runs r u h h b t t , g th o gh the n i in e R is tow to lose tself th ye . Modernity pleasant ere nin n i h the softe g to es of the pas t blend with t . Not even the pres ence of touris ts from afar 05 can rob one of the visions of armoured knights who once strode an d rode where enthusiastic damsels of to-day are busy wi th camera o r pencil.

The manor of Helmsley was gi ven at the Conquest to the Earl of re n and e en uall a e in e an s Mo to , v t y p ss d to th h d of the amil de s one m er is su se f y of Roo , of who , Rob t, ppo d to a e uil the as le a u 1 180- 0 on the si e a h v b t c t bo t 9 , t of

i l - c n prev ous strongho d of pre Norman origin . A very o siderable r i n the rman r s ill r mai ns but a ter po t o of No wo k t e , f the surrender e as e arliam n an or es of th c tle to th P e tari f c , in 16 a o l ar it was in a c r an e i the 44 , g od y p t of , c o d c w th ’ ’ mmi ssi ners r e is ime o rs a solu el em lis e . Co o d , b t y d o h d By th t the cas tle and manor of Helmsley had passed into the hands the u es of u in am wi th e sec n om of D k B ck gh , th o d of wh , ’ the u in m II i n a arles . s re n e and the B ck gh of Ch g , th y tow

are in ima el ass i a e . ere a er his il areer in t t y oc t d H , ft w d c

6 THE E 7 NCHANTING NORTH . advantage one should follow the road from Helmsley to ie aulx un il the i ini the e is rea e and at R v t v c ty of Abb y ch d , a point where the road forks turn to the left upon a terrace (ornamented at either end by buildings in the form of ree em les erefr m a rul remarka l i G k t p ) , wh o t y b e prospect s

ai na le . The an ien e now r ess bu i obt b c t Abb y , oofl , t of wh ch noble remai ns of the church and some of the conventual

uil i n s ex is lies on the an of the R e in a cu -li e b d g t , b k y p k llo in hi se eral alle n r ho w to w ch v v ys co ve ge . All around are — m ills s e e i s me ere i ea er. h o topp d w th wood, o cov d w th h th — There is little to be seen of human life or habitation the cr a ir the lea i n s ee far a a in the alle s y of b d, b t g of h p w y v y , are often all the sounds which break the silence that hangs er his sin larl remar a le situa ion ov t gu y k b t .

w oun in a as and ea ul s li u e Rievaulx as f ded ( v t dr df o t d , illi am e ur in his r ni cles in 1 1 1 says W of N wb gh ch o ) 3 , by a E e r elmsle imsel a er a s renu us W lter sp c , Lo d of H y, who h f, ft t o li e arrior and sta esman ecame an inma e the f as w t , b t of

l is er ere and was uri e in the ur . As in the ase c o t h , b d ch ch c l on ri r ere is a le en a a hin the un a i n of Bo t P o y, th g d tt c g to fo d t o of ie aulx hi on ex amina i n urns out be n in R v , w ch t o t to oth g en is the eflect a al er Es e un e but leg d. It to th t W t p c fo d d is us ir am e and ar n e or shi re in th ho e , K kh Abb y W do (B df d ) mem r his nl son was ille ile un in near o y of o y , who k d wh h t g

n -n m b a th anal the seco d amed place . It ay e th t e ogy between thi s legend and that of Bolton is due to some

n r in i ann now b race . ie aulx at commo o ig wh ch c ot e t d R v , an ra e e mu the ene a i ns al er Es ec y t , ow d ch to b f ct o of W t p , and attained a very high rank amongst the Yorkshi re ous nli e s me its ell - ommuni ies religi ous h es . U k o of f ow c t e en its own r er a ie aulx a aine a rea ( v of o d ), th t of R v tt d g t

e u a i n f r h ari and iet . ssi l ein so far out r p t t o o c ty p y Po b y, b g of the world (for in those days this part of Ryedale mus t have been hard to come at there were few incentives to — anything more than piety the benevolence of the com i e i r fi Out mun ty must hav been ex erc sed fa ther a eld . of

8 7 THE ENCHANTING NORTH.

their revenues the Cisterci ans of Rievaulx drew funds for the setting up of one of the most famous religious houses in ese islan s or ei r own r er—the lr s th d of th o d Abbey of Me o e, imm r alise ir o t d by S Walter Scott .

The dales which stretch away in vari ous directions from Rie aulx are as l nel as e ar i v o y th y e p ctures que . In summer

One may follow such roads or paths as there are along them for considerable distances without encountering a uman ein or seein m re an an asi nal arms ea h b g g o th occ o f t d , far a a r m n w y f o the world . But of their beauty no o e will u ar do bt who c es to ex plore their recesses .

In the m re a ral un r - es of elmsle o p sto co t y south w t H y, and at the foot of the southern spurs of the Hambleton ills s ands all a is le lan e an er H , t th t ft of By d Abb y, oth s oll in e ian is mmuni was hou e f ow g the Cist rc rule . Th co ty n s ain founded u der somewhat romantic circum tances . Cert monks of Furnes s set out from there to found a house of

out eir lans so mu so in ee a e ere li e th p ch , d d, th t th y w ob g d at las t to repai r to the then Archbishop of York for succour

and unsel. assin r u irs eir r el n in s co P g th o gh Th k, th poo b o g g a e in a ar ra n ox en e a ra e the n i e p ck d c t d w by , th y tt ct d ot c Gundreda i e i el de l ini had om assi n of , w f of N g A b , who c p o on em and se em u at e near Gormire ere th , t th p Hod , , wh ’ e remaine un i Gundr a s son er de M ra th y d t l ed , Rog owb y,

a e em lan at Old lan on the es side R edale . g v th d By d, w t of y It is said that they could not rest here because the bells ie aulx is ur e em and so e le and a er of R v d t b d th , th y ft, , ft

m re an erin finall se le at lan in 11 . h a is o w d g, y tt d By d 77 W t — left of the church and abbey chiefly of the west front of — the former shows that they must have been of considerable imensi ns the ur in a was the lar es ur d o ; ch ch , f ct , g t ch ch n in the is i r er in En lan and was belo g g to C terc an o d g d, nearl e ual in len e erle Mi ns er ea ein y q gth to B v y t , ch b g

80 HE E T NCHANTING NORTH.

be as a as a ri n e at x and to h ppy p c Co wold, he was ’ cer ainl ri h in ad in tis a lan l n t y g t d g d of p e ty . Yet it ul not ee him a a fr m his old n n haun co d k p w y o Lo do ts , and ins ea i ere am n s its rural t d of dy ng th o g t peace, he died in r l in s in us n ee poo odg g b y Bo d Str t .

l ar un his er eli ul ar r shire is ook o d t v y d ghtf p t of Yo k , w h to see s me in x ee i n an i ui ma in ul e o th g of e c d g t q ty, y d g their ’ hearts desires in a remarkable degree by journeying to ir ale e een ur and five miles a a ere m l in K kd , b tw fo w y, wh , ook g u n an an ien sun- i al and ins e in a ca ern e po c t d p ct g v , th y ill in one case be r u in u i ax n art an w b o ght to ch w th S o , d

over the south door of the li ttle church at Kirkdale appears to have been made about ten years previous to the Norman n ues an d is remarka le for the ins ri i n ar ed a Co q t , b c pt o c v bout i a a — t . It is going a long w y b ck to it but the day when Edward the Confess or was King of England and Tostig

day when one thinks of what the days must have been hi ir a nan ears l es li ns w ch saw K kd le Cavern te ted by b , wo v , o , ti ers nas and er ears me animals ra e g , hye oth f o , who d gg d into its reces s es their prey and left their bones heaped up

specimens of these bones may look for them in the museums

at i or ar r u or r . Wh tby, Sc bo o gh, Yo k

One very pleas ing feature of the country southward of

found on either side of the li ne which connects Helmsley i n nd is ne er er far a a r m the R e in w th Malto , a v v y w y f o y

m all r isitin if nl for eir useum) , are well wo th v g, o y th churches and for the views which are obtainable from the

i r un i i mos ases surr un s em. On the h gh g o d wh ch, n t c , o d th E 1 PICK RING . 8

er r un enea the n r ern sl es the Howardi an low g o d, b th o th op of

ills ere are ree n a le s - laces in illi n i H , th th ot b how p G g, w th i inen l i ures ue as le o in am i its fine ts em t y p ct q c t H v gh , w th ax n ur er and eli ul si ua i on and li n s S o ch ch tow d ghtf t t S g by,

a u 1600 u n the si e an earli er one hi el n e bo t , po t of w ch b o g d al hi s li n to the Mowbrays . All ong t e of country the lover of the picturesque will find abundant opportunity for serva i n and a i r i n And ex ercising hi s faculties of ob t o dm at o . if he chooses to wander a very little way out of the beaten r i si e the R e he ill is er in s t t ack on e ther d y , w d cov th g bo h — gre at and small ou his south a palace in Cas tle Howard ; n a o li le villa es in e er one i on his orth sc re of tt g , v y of wh ch in i he may light upon someth g of the hi stor c or the romanti c .

— R . F P K II NORTH O I C E IN G . — Pickeri ng is one of those places somewhat considerable — in numbers in thi s country whi ch have never received thei r full mee rai se at the ands uris s or r m the d of p h of to t , f o r f ri Its pens of people who w ite or the benefit of tou sts . situation at the very gate of one of the most s triking of our n r ern alle s and on the e e the il and o th v y , dg of w d s em s ener the r r rs ma es it an t c y of No th Yo k Moo , k ex ceedingly convenient centre for the ex ploration of both it is e uall n enien if th ra r ire make it so q y co v t, e t velle des s to , for visi ting several interesting villages which lie on one side or er the line t a lin s it wa eamer i oth of h t k , by y of S , w th er x i e it i t Scarborough. Oth e curs ons may be mad from w h m ara i e ease the ari us e s and la es in eres co p t v , to v o obj ct p c of t t whi ch are found on the moors between it and Hackness the n er is nsi eri n its en ral si i n am n s all wo d , co d g c t po t o o g t

ese la es a it is not m re s a ter. th p c , th t o ought f

Pickeri ng has a further advantage in the fact that it is ri l an r man i asso i a i ns the remai ns a has h to ca d o t c c t o , of old as l in a man i n si i n and an fine c t e occupy g com d g po t o , 82 THE E NCHANTING NORTH .

equally old church which is celebra ted for its series of in i a th li tl mural pa tings . H gh bove e t e town stands the as le and r m eneat the rees hi en i r le it h c t , f o b h t w ch c c t e eye may sweep a wide stretch of country to the south and the man n es . ere e ore the r ues was an lo w t H , b f No Co q t, Ang ax n s r n l on the si e hi the n S o t o gho d, t of w ch prese t castle

was rai se . The ee rises in the mi le o f the encl sure d k p dd o , surrounded by a ditch a curtai n wall runs from north-east

s u - es a r ss the en l sure i is en i l sur to o th w t c o c o , wh ch t re y rounded by an outer curtai n wall at the foot of which is an hr ers are in — th other ditch. T ee tow this outer wall e ’ ’ ill er e il s er and sam n s — the la er M Tow , D v Tow Ro o d Tower tt so styled because tradition has it that Fai r Rosamond

liff r mis res s enr II. S en s me ime here . (C o d) , t of H y , p t o t

h e she di or not it is ertai n a i ar . was W ther d , c th t R ch d II impri soned in Pickering Castle before being taken ofl to

Pontefract and a sad fate .

There are several noteworthy features in the architecture th aris ur i eri n in hi se eral rti ns of e P h Ch ch of P ck g, w ch v po o are rman and ere is als a fine m ala as er No , th o to b of b t B he with recumbent figures of a knight and his lady . ut t — — great sight of the church and of Pickeri ng is a series of r un ese wall paintings over the arcades of the nave . A o d th — — mural decorations almost unique in England q uite a ex e u e a u the romance lies . Supposed to have been c t d bo t mi le th fi een en ur e ere subse uen l dd of e ft th c t y, th y w q t y plastered over or otherwise hi dden (probably duri ng the uri an re ime and remaine l s si un il a so - alled P t g ), d o t to ght t c r ra i n in 18 en t e ere isc ere nl be esto t o 5 3 , wh h y w d ov d, o y to r una el hidden agai n beneath a coat of whitewash . Fo t t y an aire and are now they have been properly cleaned d rep d , f s are a en r m l ri ure well cared or. The subj ect t k f o Ho y Sc pt The m s remar a le and from the Lives of the Saints . o t k b am n s em and a i al a s a ra s m s a en ion o g t th , th t wh ch w y tt ct o t tt t , ’ is n er s eas a rul n erful the o e depicting H od F t, t y wo d On the composition betraying a medie val sense of humour.

8 LASTINGHAM . 3 le o n the a i s is a i n his ea cut 03 and al me ft J h B pt t h v g h d , S o i n c i I s stan di g ready to re e ve it in a charger. n the centre al me res en s the ea to er er ias and hi S o p t h d H od , H od , two gh na es —all sea ed a the ri m perso g t t the feas t . On ght Salo e is ex ecuting a wild dance before the King and his com i i an ns and is e n s l e . hn who sui the p o , b g co d d by St Jo , , to t ’ ar i st s leasure h as once m e m his t p , ore b co e possessed of n th n r head. Thi s is o e orth of the nave on the south the e is a remarkable series of pictures depicting incidents in the l i . a ri n fe of St C the e .

ere are two la es eac rea in eres wi hi n eas Th p c , h of g t t t , t y distance of Pickeri ng which no one who loves antiquities should leave this district without inspecting carefully as in am an a t rn as m e d e . in a a l nel illa L t gh C w ho At L t gh , o y v g on the ed e the m rs one mee s one the m s a red g of oo , t of o t s c , and at the same ime mos a i en en res ris i ani t t nc t , c t of Ch t ty the of En lan r in to is r of it in North g d . Acco d g the h to y i en the enera le e e it was un e Cedd g v by V b B d , fo d d by

r t er . ad a terwar s r is r (b o h of St Ch , f d A chb hop of Yo k), is Eas n lia es ire E thelwald in B hop of t A g , by d of , K g of eira es ired re ire s me l nel r li i us use D , who d to t to o o y e g o ho f r a an s o the rest of his d ys , d to be buried wi thi n its precinct i is sai a e im n i e on h s death. It d th t Bed h self was at o e t m an inma e his m nas er but a er his ime ere are t of t o t y , ft t th no accounts of it until the monk s of Whitby began its ra i n n a er the rman n The res to t o te years ft No Co ques t. n was r a l uil a un r ears la er pres e t church p ob b y b t h d ed y t , as most of the architecture is of the Transitional-Norman i is ert ainl one the m s remar a l urch es per od . It c y of o t k b e ch in r s ire but its rea l r is un in its r a Yo k h , g t g o y fo d c yp t, c m le e c ur in i sel i c is er a s the fines s e imen o p t h ch t f, wh h p h p t p c of Sax on work left in England. — It was at Lastingham that Parson Carter ofi ciated one of those characters for whom the broad - acred county is

l - so am us . H w not n in um en but inn ee er f o e as o y c b t , k p , a erer an d fi ler at the un a an es and en ak en c t , dd S d y d c , wh t A 84 THE ENCH NTING NORTH .

as fo ini es e u a i ns he r a s iri to t k r comb ng th occ p t o , w ote p ted letter in which he pointed out that his folk had to come l n is ances a here was no harm in his selli n em o g d t , th t t g th mea and rin and a an inn en ance to the s ra e t d k, th t oc t d c p of his fiddle was a better thi ng to have than to leave them

in idlenes s .

The man es m s at Cawthome ur in num er ma Ro p , fo b , y be reached by road from Pickering by way of Drelton or New am le n or rail r m e is am ro m hi H b to , by f o L v h , f w ch i an For r lari u line they are only t wo miles d s t t . egu ty of o t and fin enes s of situation they are worthy of comparison

They are placed on a hill over which it is supposed a man ran ro al n a lan and i but Ro road f m M to to Go th d Wh tby, a The of which all but the faintes t tr ce has di sappeared. size th am s is nsi era le—t wo su se ha e of e c p co d b , ppo d to v een ermanent ec i el 0 ee 60 and b p , are res p t v y 4 0 f t by 3 , 60 ee 0 ee t wo eli e ed a e een em rar 5 f t by 5 5 f t , b v to h v b t po y ,

ere in the case one lar er the er scar el smaller. w of g , of oth c y It is held by authorities on military antiquities that these am s ere the r the IXth i on c p w wo k of Leg .

People who mak e the journey between Pickering and Whitby by the line which runs through the various vales and dales bet ween the t wo places will feel tempted to mak e

n er ul scener on ea i of a esti n wo d f y ch s de the li ne . It is qu o

En lan in g d. It w ds in and out bet ween high hills ; beneath

illsi e ri ule s rushi er he h d v t , ng to meet them pas t houses p c d hundreds of feet above the valley through which the train is s its wa li e a snak e now villa e and tw t y k ; past a quiet g , now as a smel i n mi ne un il a l it e alle p t t g , t t ast runs into th v y

the Esk . is erha s at i es a i ham but of It p p ts b t bout Lev s , there is not a mile during whi ch the lover of fine scenery ill not ee his e es lu his arri a in nor a w k p y g ed to c ge w dow,

C HAPTER VII .

F o m k to R e Es k b r Thirs the iv r , y the H ambleto n and Cleveland Hills .

T is almost impossible to conceive of a more delightful holiday ex cursi on than one which may be made (with plenty of chances of getting help from the rail when one gets weary of the road ) in the North of Yorkshi re by following the line of the Hambleton and Cleveland Hills r m the nei ur of hi rs as far as ui s rou f o ghbo hood T k G bo gh , and at that point turning south into the wild moorlands ami s i the i er Esk has its source and r m en e d t wh ch R v , f o th c pursui ng the course of that romantic stream until it runs in the ar i r m nsi era le ex erience to h bour of Wh tby. F o co d b p of thi s wandering over paths which for a good deal of the way just mentioned are not too much beaten by the feet uris s one ma r in er ain seas ns of of to t , y safely asse t that c t o — the year notably in the fulness of spring and in the ri eness autumn f r the un r be eal i p of , o co t y to d t w th — depends much upon colour there is no part of the North 8 THIRSK . 7

er or e in aflords a of Yorkshire which is bett w th s e g. It m in n ill m r ri er lan and m it is co b atio of h , oo , v , wood d g ; rich in old ruins and quaint dwelling- places it embraces the

m li in al one ra it to the s ener co pared to Puteo It y , t ct of c y er se s out u n and om le es of the Ardennes . Whoev t po c p t su n ex ursi n al in as mu as ssi le i a ch a c o , w k g ch po b , w th

ne er far a a will l a u n his ex erien es i v w y, ook b ck po p c w th eli f a e d ght and pleasure or many year to com .

There is no better starti ng-out point for this journey an irs use hi rsk in i sel is no nl ell rt th Th k, beca T t f t o y w wo h isi in but is a m s n eni en en re for rea in the v t g, o t co v t c t ch g am le n ills i i at the rn ex mi . os e rs s ut e re H b to H Opp t Th k, o h t ty — of this range which is really a continuation of the Cleveland ills—is ites ne Clifl r m en e ere are S len i H Wh to , f o wh c th p d d ie s the lain r the s u ar and the es ern v w of p of Yo k to o thw d, of w t

summit of Whites tone Clifl it is possi ble on a clear day to watch a trai n leave York and to follow its progres s all the way arlin t n enea it lies Gormi re ne the r few to D g o . B th , o of ve y

s ri in l si ua e . i e Semmerwater it h as its le en or t k g y t t d L k g d, ,

ra er le en s . One is the eflect t a a rea i lies th , g d to h t g t c ty i en in its e hs an er a it is mles s a h dd d pt ; oth , th t botto ; ir a a se i n e in e ure th d, th t goo wh ch o c strayed to th fiss whereat the lak e runs out from under Whites tone Clifl emer ed at s me O eni n t wel e miles awa li el en u g o p g v y, v y o gh , but en l i d uded of a l ts feathers . Along the face of the clifl at is in a ears the fi ure a hi e rse similar to th po t pp g of W t Ho , a in er shi re i was cut out e ur at the th t B k , wh ch of th t f instigation of a native of this part who made a fortune in

n n . The ur so rem e was r c lime and Lo do t f ov d epla ed by , the figure may be seen fro m a considerable dis tance to the West 88 E E HAN TH NC TING NORTH .

the the am le n ills all the wa r m At foot of H b to H , y f o Thi rsk to Northallerton there are many pictures que bits of r a si e s ener and or t ree illa es and laces i o d d c y, two h v g p wh ch are ell r isi in — elis ir n a le for its orman w wo th v t g F k k, ot b N hurc e is n use the me one o m s c h ; N v o Ho , ho of of ur o t am us i men sall as le r m e ce ere is f o h ghway ; Up C t , f o wh n th a fine i e i r is e the irt la e er As am v w K by W k , b hp c of Rog ch

and h rn on- le - ree the si e one the smaller oman T o t St t , t of of R s a i o One i a hile i r fi in or aller on t t ns . m ght tarry w w th p o t N th t

itsel a uie slee one - s ree li le o n i a fine f , q t, py , t t tt t w w th

hur s me old- as i ne inns and man memories c ch, o f h o d , y , to say nothing of the contiguity of the scene of the Battle the an ar ou a li le wa u si e the n in of St d d, f ght tt y o t d tow 1 1 6 er m erni 3 . H e one sees the encroachments of od ty Northallerton is becomi ng a sort of capital for North or s i re and now as s a new un all im sin Y k h , bo t Co ty H of po g a earan e the old pp c and dimensions . But to all lovers of as ioned rl n i n in r aller on ill a eal so f h wo d , oth g No th t w pp much as the long street and the old inns whereat the

a h - a co c es used to draw up in the pre railway d ys .

The most interesting place in thi s particular dis tri ct is i u d u the ancien ri race i w tho t o bt t P ory of Mount G , wh ch may eas ily be reached from Northallerton by way of sm erle an in eres in illa e l in in a oll e ween O oth y, t t g v g y g h ow b t the Hambletons and th le race ri r e C velands . Mount G P o y, one of the ni ne Carthusian houses in England (of which nl e er ex is e in or shire is er ai nl one the o y two v t d Y k ) , c t y of most interes ting relies of the monasti c age in the county; an d is remar a le for its si ua ion i is ic ures ue and k b t t , wh ch p t q leasan i r remains in p t. A cons de able part of the clois ter er reser a i n and afi ords a ex am le the v y good p v t o , good p of ar usi an arran emen i ea m n had his own C th g t, by wh ch ch o k ouse and ar The are in s ill h g den . remains of the church t e er reser a i n and h c ill r e b tt p v t o , bot hurch and cloister w p ov ex in of treme terest to all lovers of monas tic architecture . e are in ee uni ue alue are the onl Th y , d d , of q v , because they y

N E 8 MOU T GRAC PRIORY . 9 — remai ns of a Carthusi an house left in England of the other ei si ua e res ec i el in n n and at ull E r ght , t t d p t v y Lo do , H , pwo th, ane in n eau ir i am and en r ere is Sh , H to , B vo , W th , Cov t y, th

arcel a s one le . ere at un ra e one sees how sc y t ft H , Mo t G c , — ermi ere in li the Carthusi an lived a pe rfect h t . H his ttle use i its one r om ns ai rs erein w a l se ho , w th o dow t (wh as c o t for ls and its r ms u s ai rs one hi was for too ) two oo p t , of w ch slee in in the her for ra in in the m n en a p g , ot p y g , o k sp t wh t time was not occupied in the church or in the garden

- i n which surrounded his cell like res de ce . His meals were served to him through a little hatch at the si de of the — door a hatch so constructed that the person serving could

not see the ers n serve and vi ce versa . The mem ers p o d, b of the community never di ned together ex cept on Sundays and rea es i als—on all er a s sa e for a en an e in g t f t v oth d y , v tt d c

h ir e li ed r and ate al ne . c o , th y v , wo ked, o

un race was un e omas u e Mo t G fo d d by Th , D k of Surrey, ne e i I a ph w of R chard I. bout the end of the fourteenth en ur and he is eli e in e in c t y, b ev d to have been t rred the hur a u 1 12 b t no a i ra e has e er een c ch bo t 4 , u tr ce of h s g v v b

isc ered. The use ecame onsi era le im r an e d ov ho b of c d b po t c , and at the time of the Dissolution was worth £380 in ann u ual val e .

Beyond Mount Grace Priory and its well-wooded slopes one r s in the leasan as ral alle e d op to p t p to v y of th Leven, pass ing some interes ting villages on the way to Stokesley n le Arnclifle ere ere ar I g by , wh th e some noteworthy monu men s in the c ur rl n a m s eli ull si a t h ch Who to , o t d ghtf y tu ted place with a ruined church and tumble-down castle ; and ir ere in the ur ar ere are s me uri ous K kby, wh ch chy d th o c ,

u mu ila ed efi ies . here is reall not e muc tho gh t t , g T y v ry h — to see in Stokes ley itself a quiet little town through which th e mean ers ull e L ven d peacef y. But between Stokes ley and uis r u one ourne s r li e Th G bo o gh j y th ough de ghtful scen ry . e e en in s hr u a eau i ul alle hi on e u L v w d t o gh b t f v y, w ch th so th side is shut in by the thi ckly wooded slopes of the Cleveland 90 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

ills erea u s be i nnin assume efini el m un ain H , h bo t g g to d t y o t ous

s a e . min r ri er er li le re u a i n the n h p A o v of v y tt p t t o , Leve is really well worth following from its junction with the Tees at Yarm to any one of its several source s amongst a arm it i runs r u the hills . Th t of wh ch th o gh the valley in the di rection of Guisborough is surrounded by some very pleasant pastoral scenery and commands some fine views of se err o in the l n ran e Eas M001 an Ro b y T pp g, of o g g of by , d the m numen to a ai n i is set u on on of o t C pt Cook, wh ch p e the i es in s a e Eas avin the su eri r of h gh t po t bov by , h g p o the s for a a r un s n heights of Cleveland b ckg o d . It hould ot ’ — be forgotten that thi s is Captai n Cook s country he was rn at Marte n a small villa e l in e een the le elan bo , g y g b tw C v d ills and Mi les r u e u a e at rea n a H dd b o gh ; d c t d G t Ayto ,

r u and a ren i e to a tradesmen at ait es on bo o gh , pp t c d St h ,

- w the sea coas t a fe miles away.

se err o in the su ar-l a -s a e ill on the Ro b y T pp g, g o f h p d h of rea on ran s as one the ri nci al eminen es east G t Ayt , k of p p c in r s ire h u it is in reali not so i as its Yo k h , t o gh ty h gh n mak e it a ear curi ous situati o and outline pp to be . It is arel ele en un re ee in ei u s me wri ers b y v h d d f t h ght, tho gh o t a en it in al as i a ain h ve writt of as be g h f h gh g . It has a a i rea in e am n s ra ellers lw ys ex c ted g t t res t o g t t v and touris ts . ’ In Graves s History of Cleveland there is an ex t ract from the nian in i the ri er s eaks the Cotto MSS . wh ch w t p of goodly r s be seen r m the summi se err in p o pect to f o t of Ro b y Topp g, the ai n ul as en u its s ee si es and the of p f c t p t p d , of joy of n em He als sa s t a h t a rolling sto es down th . o y h t e heard h t once upon a time some person thus rolling a stone so fri ghtened a tethere d horse by the terrible noise it made in its es en t a the s ar le animal urs its n s and d c t , h t t t d b t bo d lea i In the d la ar er ped over a very h gh gate . ol p y M g y ’ ’ Moor out se err in is re erre as i es p , Ro b y Topp g f d to t b gg t ’ ’ hill i all York a ha f h sheer a mahle an u e heeg , ’ ’ ’ ’ ’ ’ ” an as cawd as ice at on t i a tes t da i summer. t top , t y t y

2 THE E 9 NCHANTING NORTH.

is amil and am n s ers er ru e who i th f y, o g t oth Rob t B c , d sputed the r n c tlan i ali l and se randson c ow of S o d w th B o , who g , an er er su se uen l as cen e the is r ne oth Rob t , b q t y d d Scott h th o , re urie in the ur of the ri r or in e we b d ch ch P o y, th adj acent ari s ur ere se eral mem ri als em p h ch ch, wh v o of th are to be

found.

There is now practically nothing left of the Priory but the eas all the ur — a ra men rea eau t w of ch ch f g t of g t b ty, whi ch shows that the perfect s tructure must have been very

im sin . is the ec ra e eri of ar hi e ure an d po g It of D o t d p od c t ct , is remarkable for the size of the great eas t window in the ch oi r (six ty by twenty-eight feet) and the richness of the i s fin e tracery and mouldi ngs . Th remnant of what must have been one of the most beautiful monas tic churches in the country (and also one of the most considerable in size ) forms a prominent landmark over a considerable stretch of un r but is m st be admi re r m the uiet ar ens co t y, o to d f o q g d

in which it is now enclosed.

Folk who love to wander out of any beaten track or appointed route will do well while they are at Guisborough to follow the road towards Saltbum as far as Upleatham

el n one on the le the er on the ri - an of and Sk to , ft , oth ght h d a lea m all n e the res i en e e the i . a th h ghw y Up th H , o c d c of Ear Ze lan and one the es -si ua ed uses in the ls of t d, of b t t t ho r i in ren ne for its leasure r un s an No th R d g, ow d p g o d d ar ens is now a ruin the iron-mines un ernea a in g d , , d th h v g

its su si en e . l se to the r a si e m s r man i all caused b d c C o o d d , o t o t c y a is all a is le of the old ur lea am situ ted , th t ft ch ch of Up th — styled by some the smalles t church in England a very

iv -c ere e ifi e wit a low and s me uri us small y ov d d c , h tower o c o ci n arc i ec nea i l remai ns of very an e t h t ture . Be th t runs Ho e

e a s reamle hi is i en er an i n s . B ck, coy t t w ch h dd by ov h g g wood r ss the alle whi is in erse ed i s s ream and Ac o v y, ch t ct by th t el n ec in o i it runs s an s el on as le Sk to B k, t wh ch , t d Sk t C t , now a m ern un r use but in its ori inal rm the od co t y ho , g fo n l of the er ul amil ru I e stro gho d pow f f y of de B s . ts chi f KE E S LTON CASTL . 93 interes t in recent times li es in the fact that it has been the home within the last two hundred years of t wo very a le s e imens r shi re e entri i o n all remark b p c of Yo k cc c ty, J h H e enson the aut or Craz Tales and rien St v , h of y f d of erne a curi us ara er a all sor s Laurence St , o ch ct who h d t of fads and humours and would never leave his bed while the wind was in the east (a whim which on one occas i on led Sterne to bribe a serving lad to tie up the weathercock in such a fashion that it could only point to the wes t) and of ar are ar n a er ri but ex remel Miss M g t Wh to , v y ch t y miserl mai en la earned the soubri 14et Pe y d dy , who q of g enn or r m the a a — al u she e u a P yw th, f o f ct th t tho gh k pt p lar e es a lishmen she ul rarel be in u e to la out g t b t , co d y d c d y more than a penny or some equally incommensurable sum a i t a t me .

Although high-roads there are none and by-roads are few and r u it s oul be no difli cult as in fine ea her o gh, h d t k w t for a s ou -le e s un - in e e es rian mak e his t t gg d , o d w d d p d t to way from Guisborough over the edge of the Cleveland Hills es er ale ere the i er Esk has its s urce — e le to W t d , wh R v o p op who do not care to encounter such a task may easily reach Es a on the railwa wa of un r e and ale kd le y by y N tho p Kild . But those who wish to see the Es k under some of its mos t a ra ti e surroun in s will ertainl mak e heir wa the tt c v d g , c y t y to s li u es es er ale r ere the ri er ri ses in the o t d of W t d Moo , wh v , neighbourhood of several traces of the Early British age i n the s a e en am men s and umuli at a ei nearl h p of c p t t , h ght of y

fi n a e - e n i ra uall ftee hundred feet bov sea l vel. He ce t g d y — des cends through the moorlands to Castleton a picturesquely si ua ed villa e near i the de rus famil had a r ifie t t g , wh ch B y fo t d — house where it enters the dale which tak es its name from i h in t . From t is po t to Whitby (it should be remembered that the Esk is the only river in the north of Yorkshire i s ire l to the sea the s ener is re but wh ch flow d ct y ) c y p tty, not hold leas in but not es e iall s riki n Es ale ; p g, p c y t g. kd , in ee is roman i and sen imen al ra er an aw -ins i d d, t c t t th th e pir ng THE E 94 NCHANTING NORTH .

an d su lime and it has more clai ms on the s u en b , t d t of folk-lore and the searcher into the manners and customs of the dwellers in lonely places than on those in search of mere s enic fl c e ect .

Nothing in Eskdale is so interes ting as the Danby ’ i stri c the scene of the la anon ins n s in m ara le d t , te C Atk o co p b r F ort Years i n a M oorland Pari sh in i c one wo k, y , wh h finds the harves t o f a long and observant li fe carefully garnered by a scholar who was also a warm-hearted human

ein . In his alrea a classi c its au or has b g t book, dy , th

res er e the l -l re ra i i ns s n s su ers i i ns the p v d fo k o , t d t o , o g , p t t o of

un r -si e in o e r s A Gloss ar o the Cleveland co t y d his th r wo k , y f Di alect leveland Anci ent and M odern the s ee , and C , , p ch and history of thi s important tract of Yorkshire are treated ’ a au ri n with the skill of sound tho ty . Can o Atkinson s — tomb is in Danby churchyard ; it is already and will — become more so in higher degree i n time to come one of

an -in - le elan ers a lar e rac un r D by C v d cov g t t of co t y, x n si es of the Esk and ran in rom an e tending o both d , g g f D by

' Low Moor on the north of the dale to Dan o y High Moor is a istri of u s and ns e all on the south . It d ct p dow , dott d ci en am men s an over wi th traces of an ent c p t d tumuli . A on an i ui ies rec ere r m the considerable collecti of t q t , ov d f o la er was orme an n i ns n and is now reser ed tt , f d by C o Atk o , p v an illa e i e li in a all at the Briti sh Museum. D by v g ts lf es v ey — bet ween Castleton Ridge an d Danby High Moor above it on the eas t Danby Rigg ri ses to a height of twelve hundred feet ; across the dale on the north Danby Beacon sh ows

i tw un ee less in al i u e . erlo in the tself, o h dred f t t t d Ov ok g Esk on ern sl e an Hi r s an s , the north op of D by gh Moo , t d an as e the me the Latimers r a l uil D by C tl , ho of , p ob b y b t a ou 1 0 now alm s en irel in ruins but c n ai nin in b t 34 , o t t y , o t g it s dismantled walls some stones bearing the arms of the

amilies a imer de rus and de Ros . enea it s annin f of L t , B , B th , p g th e Esk is a rare bit old- rl ar i ec ure in an old , of wo d ch t t

THE E 96 NCHANTING NORTH .

r un e in it are m re en ren hmen s arr ws umuli g o d b h d o t c t , b o , t

and er in i a i ns a l n - ea a e en ese com oth d c t o of o g d d g , wh th p arative solitudes must have been at leas t as well peopled as e are now and on the lai s ale si e the alle th y , G d d of v y a e E n ri e ere is a man am i com bov gto B dg th Ro c p, wh ch man s the alle e Esk it a r ac es d v y of th as pp o h Whi tby .

Near Grosmont the series of valleys which begins at Pickering and continues through Newtondale and Goathlan d runs in Es al n hi s in ile to kd e . The sce ery from t po t, wh al a s leasin and a ra i e is not ar i ularl is in i e w y p g tt ct v , p t c y d t ct v so far as the alle is c n erne and mu m re enefi v y o c d, ch o b t is to be had by ex ploring the high ground above Grosmont and lei s on the s u si and a e E t n r S ght o th de , bov g o Low Moo and Swarthoe r ss on the n r an is be ot ll C o o th , th to g by fo ow in the Esk ar e m rs ull ari e g tow ds th sea. These oo , f of v ty e ause the e s c em are ar i ularl b c of b ck which interse t th , p t c y ri in mem rials the as and t ere are s lendi ie s ch o of p t, h p d v w r m man in r t in t e are a f o y po ts of them. Above eve y h g h y

- ara ise res een li e i in ai r. t se e le p d of f h , k , f g v g To ho p op who l e an er al -aimless er i e err anses n in ov to w d , h f ly, ov w d p , oth g could be more delightful than thes e stre tches on the e e th dg of e North Sea.

98 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

unles s he has traversed the course of thi s river from its two sour es si ua e in lose r x imi the as line but c ( t t d c p o ty to co t , going clear away from it in a south-wes terly di rection ) to its u le in the use ic avin alrea a sor e the ale o t t to O , wh h , h g dy b b d Sw , the Ure the i and th e h ar e at ers u the er en , N dd W f , g h p D w t and the ir in the n i ur le and imme i a el A e e ghbo hood of Goo , d t y i i n u r r loses ts own de tity in the est ary of the Humbe . F om the m re n r erl s ur e the er en r u r e o o th y o c of D w t , th o gh Fo g alle as the A t ons and e am s me in or V y , p t y Wyk h , to o po t er in l se r x imi al n m s tra ellers in ese oth c o p o ty to M to , o t v th — parts have made a journey between the outlet of the river

at arm -on- the - ars and Kirkharn e us si e B by M h Abb y, j t out d al n few e le ha e urne e on usiness In M to , p op v jo y d save b . — — that the lower s tretch of the Derwent there is a plenitude ma eri al for the arti s the an i uar the ar e l is of t t, t q y , ch o og t, and the learn e l u r l n d o nge who loves o d places and old thi gs .

Within a brief ci rcle of the spot where the Derwent i meets with the Ouse there are several places of much

res . irs in im r an e is el the am us inte t F t po t c S by, f o Abbey Church of which old- fas hioned market-town is the most rominen ec in the nei ur an d nex the p t obj t ghbo hood, . t to ins ers r i n an d e erle the mos c nsi a m t of Yo k, R po B v y, t o der ble i r ai eccles as tical monument in Yo kshire . S d to have been un e in 106 in er um le ashi n a re u ee m n fo d d 9 , v y h b f o , by f g o k ux erre name enedi th e mmuni i i n a of A , d B ct , co ty w th en ur e ame one the m s er ul in En lan and c t y b c of o t pow f g d, ’ ar s with the ex ception of St . M y Abbey at York was the only one in the North whi ch h ad a mitred abbot at its was r e een se en and head. It wo th b tw v eight hundred n Th c ur i fin pounds at the Dissolutio . e h ch s the est monasti c r l in r s i re but it has suflered rea l v chu ch eft Yo k h , g t y at ari ous and was ui e re en l res re a er a serious fir ti mes , q t c t y to d ft e v atin n u n Th ar which had de as t g co seq e ces . e chitecture is i N rm an and rea eau and ere are se eral ch efly o , of g t b ty , th v r in eres in m numen s and inscri i ns in lu in an ve y t t g o t pt o , c d g oft-quoted one upon a former sex ton

100 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

N ear thi s s tone lies A rcher o hn (J ) , I av r Late Sax ton ( e ) ,

’ Wh o without t ears t hi rt y four years

Did caress es i nt er . B ut death at las t for hi s works pass ed U nto hi m thus did s a y, Leave 05 trade be not afraid thy , , u or wi m awa B t f th th co e y . Wi th out re l o r as ki n wh p y g y , The summons he o e ed b y , In seventeen hundred and six ty-eigh t ” H res i n his li f and s e g ed e pade .

Se t . 1 68 . p , 7 Eas trington and Hemingbrough are two of the most i n a teres ting churches in this part of Yorkshi re . Th t of Eas rin t n i t is ru h as li le s in m aris n i t g o , t e , tt to how co p o w th its m re am us nei ur but ere is a er ain am un of o f o ghbo , th c t o t Sax on work i n the tower there is a good Norman arch opening in the na e and s me uai n and er old ar in s i n the to v , o q t v y c v g

r . ere is a fin ala r hi c a ears a po ch H , too , e bas te tomb w h pp to d te r m the en een n The ur at emin u f o sev t th ce tury . ch ch H gbro gh is m i i u ies ore mmrtant n every way. It occ p the site o f a man s a i n the name i h as een l s u Ro t t o , of wh ch b o t , tho gh I s relics of it have been discovered from time to time . t very high and graceful spire may be seen for long distances i n the surr un in flat un r i i nall a lle ia e o d g co t y . Or g y co g t ur nsi era le im r an e it n ains se eral ea ures ch ch of co d b po t c , co t v f t an i ui and in eres the mos remar a le i of t q ty t t , t k b of wh ch , er a s is the imi a i n m s i n the fi ure a p h p , t t o to b, how g g of i n a in in n corpse w d g sheet, whereo the country folk used ma e s lemn ar ains and a and re ei e the m ne to k o b g , p y c v o y i n lu e s the ar i is man wh ch co c d d them. Mo t of ch tecture Nor

or Earl En li s and the or i s remar a l fine . y g h , woodw k k b y

But the finest monument of anti quity in this neighbour nex el e is un in the ma nifi en old hood, t to S by Abb y, fo d g c t c ur at en i was so l i the h ch Howd , wh ch c osely connected w th Bishops of Durham in the days when they were great territori al ma na es as ell as l i as c n i e g t w ecc es ti s of vast influe ce . L k emi n r u a lle i a e ur it was fi in l a e H gb o gh, co g t ch ch, tt g y dedic t d

T E E 102 H NCHANTING NORTH .

un an ir r In s i th a a h dre d d th ty pe s ons . p te of e f ct th t l ern n er Earl r um erlan ea the use A g o P cy, of No th b d, h d of ho at the ime the i il War a e in his a eren e th t of C v , g v dh c to e un a ause h arli amen ar lea ers t u fit Ro dhe d c , t e P t y d ho ght to es r ressle as le and dem lis e the rea er ar d t oy W C t , o h d g t p t of i a n i t . More d mage was occas io ed by a di sas trous fire wh ch urr a un r an fi ears la er and t ere is now occ ed h d ed d fty y t , h little remaini ng of the structure which so plea ed Leland en was in h n u all ri wh he thes e parts , that e e th sias tic y desc bed it in his Itinerary as one of the finest houses north of the — Ri er ren . ere was ere als muc an i e elan v T t Th h o h f c d by L d, as indeed it would be by all book-lovers and an tiquari ans ’ a li le s u or sc lars re rea unnin l n ri e in tt t dy ho t t , c g y co t v d

one the an le ers and n n as the Paradi se . of g tow , k ow

r m u n in 1 6 er s e set out on the urne F o A ghto , 5 3 , Rob t A k jo y which was to en d in hi s assuming the cormnand of the re elli n i ecame n as th i rima e r b o wh ch b k own e P lg g of G ace . The th i In te the a result of e ri s ng is well known . of f ct that it was strongly supported by the great Catholic families th and a e lle e a wer ul arm of e North , th t Ask co ct d po f y (the rank and file of which all wore badges on which were depicted the Five Wounds of our Lord) and gai ned some ’ im r an i ries er th in r es the m ement po t t v cto ov e K g s fo c , ov was u r in isi e i n and its t ree rin i al s pp es s ed dec v fash o , h p c p leaders and nearly a hundred of thei r followers ex ecuted ert s e himsel a er a eri a i i in the Rob A k f, ft p od of c pt v ty

er n n ei ut ea in r . In the Tow of Lo do , b ng p to d th Yo k u i ch rch here is a brass repres enting Aske and h s wife .

Still further along the river is the site of the histori c and e - a ri e u on poch making b ttle of Stamford B dg , fo ght e em er 2 th 1066 e een ar l Godwinsson S pt b 5 , , b tw H o d of E lan and a Hardraadsson rwa un ng d, Har ld of No y, both conscious at the time that William of Normandy was even then on hi s way to conquer the ki ngdom for whi ch they ere fi in u En lis men and men li e w ght g . Tho san ds of g h Nors e un er the acres a surr un is uie li le la e i d th t o d th q t tt p c , wh ch - LE- 1 FOSTON CLAY . 03 still preserves a local cus tom in commemoration of the great th a le t i a rseman encounter. When e b tt was a its he ght No of great stre ngth and stature kept the old narrow wooden ri e a ains hi s nen s s me two s re m ell b dg g t oppo t , o co of who f

a l -ax ul disl e beneath the blows of his b tt e e . No one co d odg im un il t len t a il En lis man re un er the h , t a g h w y g h c pt d ri e in a ru e ra in s a e li a tub an d ier e the b dg d c ft, h p ke , p c d i defender with a spear from beneath the open plank ng. a a s th am r ri l at eir annual eas Now d y , e St fo d B dge fo k, th f t , ma e mea ies in the s a e the a and c nsume k t p h p of bo t, o em r ali an ea arms th in memo y of this v t f t of .

Just westward of the point where the river enters upon e l el ale erwen re e in in i ts laci sur a e th ov y V of D t , fl ct g p d f c th fine s u er ram e s an he c ur an e wood of B tt c b , t d t h ch d

villa e os n- le- la ull associ a i n i g of F to C y, f of t o w th Sydney

mi ars n au r wit ban vi vant Ra i al . e S th, p o , tho , , , d c H re , where he had had no resident predecessor in the living for a en ur and a al he uil himsel a new vi ara e c t y h f, b t f c g , whi ch he was wont to des cri be as the uglies t yet the most com fortable in the un and in it he li e a in urnis e co ty, v d , h v g f h d it in a er ri inal as i n he u hi s own an v y o g f h o ( bo ght wood, d ot illa e r n er l d g the v g ca pe t to mak e tab es an chairs of it ), r 1808 182 un al f om to 9 . He fo d some congeni society in the m an the Earl and un es s arlis le but hi s co p y of Co t of C , fellow-parsons were not accustomed to hear the radical and unconventional notions whi ch flowed from him at most - m I t u r hi ruri ecanal ee in s . n he r e e d t g ch ch h , w ch has some remains rman ar hi ure ere is r r of No c tect , th p ese ved a

In the midst of the most beauti ful part of the Vale of Derwent stands all that is left of the once important Priory ir am un e for the an ns ular of K kh , fo d d C o Reg of St . Augusti ne one the m s erful the r s ire ar by of o t pow of Yo k h b ons ,

al er Es e a u 1 120. The le e a in W t p c , bo t g nd ttach g to its foundation is not unlike that whi ch purports to give a reas on for the founding of another and better- known house 1 04 THE ENCHANTING NORTH . of the r l n ri r — it ere a ears same orde , Bo to P o y e , too, th pp t an a ual a I o be rather more of legend th of ct f ct in it . n both the death of an only and dearly-loved son is th e ’ r i r un p etex t for buildi ng a stately pr o y . Yo g Romille met his death at Bolton by drowning young Walter Es pec

met his l se i r am a all r m hi s rs e . Es c , c o to K kh , by f f o ho pe is said to have died on the very spot where the hi gh altar of the ri r urc s a in een ra e i er P o y Ch h tood, h v g b d gg d th th by

the rse i re him . is reli i us h use was o ho wh ch th w Th g o o f, s me alue and was one hree uil in mmem ra i n o v , of t b t co o t o of his son by Walter Espec the elder (th e others being ie aulx an d ar en who ur erm re urne m n imsel R v W d ) , f th o t d o k h f, and died in the cloister of the magnificent Cisterci an house in Ryedale which he founded and endowed ten years later

At Malton the lower stretches of the Derwent may be — said t o end after Malton the river more properly belongs to the country which lies between the moors east of Pickering an h r i all r s i ar d the edge of t e No th Sea. L ke Yo k h re m ket

o ns al n is r seein . h ad its e i nni n in t w , M to wo th g It b g g the days of the Roman occupation it once had a Norman keep ; and it was burned to the ground by Archbishop Thurstan during the time of its seizure by the Scottish marau -a- a m its in es li in ders . Now d ys ost of ter t es the remai n of i ts ri one the f w e in u in s P ory, of e Gilb rt e ho ses Yorkshi re ; in its unearthed Roman and Briti sh reli cs ; and in its contigui ty to much charming country and many hi s c an d am us uses tori scenes f o ho . It also has an interes t m ern l in its mar e a s es e i all on a ur a s to od fo k k t d y , p c y S t d y , when one hears more talk of wheat and barley than in any r n in En lan its size othe tow g d of .

CHAPTER IX . i The Yorksh re Coast .

B REE counties in England are distingui shed for the

ex en and eau eir sea- r er— evon rn all t t b ty of th bo d D , Co w

and r s ire . he ran i n the or er us set own but Yo k h T y k d j t d , if the scenery of the Yorkshire Coas t from Bridli ngton Bay southward to Spurn Point were what it is northward from lam r u ea to Saltbum or s ire woul a e F bo o gh H d , Y k h d t k

r f - i p ecedence of either o the two south western count es . n ortuna el the c as s ener e ween ri lin on and U f t y , o t c y b t B d gt urn in is flat and mon onous and its ie a rac i on Sp Po t ot , ch f tt t lies in the village churches and country houses whi ch lie

a li l wa inlan an d in its as socia i ns wi h her a s . tt e y d , t o t ot d y is the sou ern sec ion of th e r s ire oas com ares Th , th t Yo k h C t , p rl wit the n r ern but a u ies an in in poo y h o th , th t o tv yth g En Th i no seas i e wn in is coun r i c gland . ere s d to th t y wh h can in an y way compare with Scarborough ; no old-world h arbour town whi ch can ch allenge comparison with Whitby no sea-coast villages with the ex act flavour an d atmosphere ’ a An if the ues i n of Robin Hood s B y or Staithes . d q t o urns on a oin of ure eal it is a sa e i n asser t p t p h th , f th g to t boldly than nowhere on the English Coas t can one find A 106 THE ENCH NTING NORTH . such bracing and invigorating ai r as on the stretch of sea-border which ex tends from the mouth of the Tees to b a Flam orough He d .

There are a hundred ways of seeing the Yorkshire Coast . me s e le o ar r u or i or So p op g to Sc bo o gh , to Wh tby, to ri lin t n ua and n en emsel es s a in ere B d g o Q y , co t t th v by t y g wh ut n t ma a n r on r t r they are p dow . O hers ke ce t e of e o o he of these places and take ex cursions from them into the ’ a surroundi ng country . Here the Yorkshire Coas t has a gre t

- — advantage over the sea border of most other counties from any of the principal towns or villages along its ni nety miles one can quickly reach some inland scene or scenery whi ch m i r m a ulness is ore than worth see ng. F o the gener l d of Withemsea one may ex plore the magnificent churches of l ern s s r m ri lin t n the l s r m ar r u Ho d e f o B d g o , Wo d f o Sc bo o gh, the charming scenery of Forge Valley and Hackness ; from

i the alle the Esk and its surr undi n ill . Wh tby, v y of o g h s But a all th real wa —for se a the im , fter , e y tho who h ve t e and in li na i n—ih i see the r s ire oast is c t o wh ch to Yo k h C , to s art out r m ull erein mer an n as it is t f o H (wh , c tile tow , there are more interesting things to see than most travellers ream and urne t en e as far as a ri n n and d of to jo y h c P t gto , su se uen l it ernsea a er ar s ll in the as b q t y to W h , ft w d fo ow g co t line towards the north until the mouth of th e Tees is reac hed. Any traveller who follows thi s route will find

ere is an imme iate re ar in a Th d w d dopting this route . No one can say that he knows all that Yorkshire can gi ve him of the best unless he has seen the two glorious — churches which stand between Hull and Spurn Point those e n and a rin n lmo in of H do P t gto , wn respectively as the K g and ueen Holde re Q of mess. Nowhere in England are the two m re eau i ul aris ur r e in o b t f p h ch ches than these , pe f ct ei r ar i ec ure n le in es i n man in in si ati n th ch t t , ob d g , com d g tu o , a he ral-li e in size and i th e c t d k proport on . Each stands in entre a are now r t c of wh t ve y small and qui et towns . Ye

E N 10 H DO . 7

n in s i e the a a its s ree s are rass - r n Hedo , p t of f ct th t t t g g ow , a rt onsi era le im rt an e ran in e re was once po of c d b po c , k g b fo and its a r ssesses a i i ma e hi is r a l Hull, M yo po c v c c w ch p ob b y

older than any other corporation ornament in the country . a n was a mar e n erein mu usiness P tri ngto , too , k t tow wh ch b —i ow k e m re an a eser e illa e was done t n loo s littl o th d t d v g , a i ur hi r ea n il er r e but the be uty of ts ch ch, w ch A chd co W b fo c used to call the model pari sh church of Englan will s Nor are ese always make it a place of deep intere t . th two wonderful ex amples of archi tectural art (both probably built by the mas ter-masons of York Mi nster) the only fine

ur -ea ernes s nor the nl la es rt ch ches of south s t Hold , o y p c wo h

- is itin . An n r his sea irt rner ri in v g yo e who ex plo es t g co , ch

wi e -s rea in c rn-lands s ul not ail see the ur es d p d g o , ho d f to ch ch res n Pa hill an d e in am nor the ur an d of P to , g K y gh , ch ch illa e ines ea ere An re arvell e and v g of W t d, wh d w M , po t

s a es man was rn uri n the in um en of his t er. t t , bo d g c b cy fa h

Around Spurn Point and the first stretch of the sea-coast r er ere is li le see but the is ri is in eres in p op th tt to , d t ct t t g for reas ns —the ara ter the li e in is one the two o ch c of f th , of m s is la e art s the un and the c n inual o t o t d p of co ty, o t en the m u the croachment of the North Sea . At o th of um er and al n th c as as far as rnsea ere ere H b , o g e o t Ho , th w once upon a time towns of importance which have been

en irel s e a a . Ra ensca n e a. urishi n sea r t y w pt w y v , o c flo g po t , was finally submerged about the end of the fourteenth century the pri ory at Skefi ing has long since been swallowed up ; there i s not a trace of the churches of Kilnsea and rn and i in the las r ears ex ensi e inr a s Owtho e, w th t fo ty y t v o d i ere have been made all along th s stretch of the coas t . Th affirms that its church was once a long way from the shore

Hornsea church stee le when uilt thee p , I b Thou wert te n miles from ri dli n t on B g , Ten miles from Beverley And n mil s from s te e ea. 1 THE E A N N 08 NCH NTI G ORTH .

But Hornsea Church and village are now wi thin an eas y mile the as u n hi the un r sea in s i e of co t, po w ch h g y , p t of ari us sc em s re en i n en r a es s ea il e v o h e of p v t o , c o ch t d y very year.

The coas t-line from Spurn Head to Hornsea is generally flat and m n n us and it has li le in rease in l n o oto o , tt c bo d ess

n -n s Th hi i beyo d the last amed re ort . e ghest po nt of land e ween urn and lam r u is imlin n ea n near b t Sp F bo o gh D gto B co , ilnsea and a is nl a un e an fi ee a K , th t o y h dr d d fty f t bove i e e e n h gh water. Th re is really v ry littl to see alo g this s re oas wi the ex e i n the ur at Al r u t tch of c t th c pt o of ch ch db o gh,

ere ere are ax n remains rea in eres . i ernsea wh th S o of g t t t W th , a a uri e res r the e le ull is r so r m f vo t o t of p op of H , wo tt f o

i - a the fact of ts health giving qualities . Th t it forms an ex cellent playground for folk who like to run out from Hull for the day is evident from the crowds whi ch are un on i e a i fo d ts fin stretch of sand . Hornse s a place of c nsi era le a ra i n—the illa e is i ures ue the o d b tt ct o v g p ct q , c ur is old it has some in eres in is r a a h ch , t t g h to y tt ched to it and it as s osses si n the lar es the ree or , bo t p o of g t of th

la es r i can s . rnsea ere a four k which Yo ksh re how Ho M , s ee a er erein are se eral islan s is five miles in h t of w t wh v d , ir um eren e and was n e a fis in reser e the c c f c , o c h g p v of Abbot ’ — . ar s r . In 1260 the eaux an of St M y , in Yo k Abbot of M important religious house between Hornsea and Beverley lai laim the ere and i su insis en e a res r d c to M , w th ch t c th t o t was e en uall had r e a i e a le akin la e v t y to fo c , p tch d b tt t g p c on the banks of the lak e between the men of Meaux an d ’ n f m n won a er a the me o ar . The s r St . M y s o k of Yo k ft ere is a mu ila e r ss in combat which las ted all day. Th t t d c o the mar e uare ere and un er the an el the k t sq h , d ch c of hur is a r ere n it is sai smu lers used c ch c ypt, wh i , d, gg to

Perhaps the most uninviting stretch of the Yorkshi re as line is a een rn a and ridlin n for co t th t betw Ho se B gto , there is literally nothing to see beyond the very faint

1 BRIDLINGTON . 09

a rman as le at ki sea and s me an ien remains of No c t S p , o c t N architecture in the church at Ulrome . or are the inland

v a at is in an rea in eres . ri li n ill ges th po t of y g t t t At B d ngto , r one mes in u i the l er ea ures the howeve , co to ch w th bo d f t of

- and e ins ercei e the eau i es and l nes ses sea line , b g to p v b t bo d of the northern section of the coast .

i r u li e i ri lin n is a m un L ke Scarbo o gh, k Wh tby, B d gto co po d n w re i e ol of the old and the e . The s th d town and the old Quay ; there is also a very new town which has been evolved out of the consciousness of those folk who desire to i t la i i bring as many visitors nto he p ce as s poss ble . Gonse

uen l mu a is an ien fi ures am n s a. rea eal q t y, ch th t c t g o g t g t d n se li a that is very moder . Tho who ke to st rt at the real heart of things will naturally turn first to the fine old ri r ur one the m s im r an the rin i P o y Ch ch , of o t po t t of p c pal

e les ias i al remains in r s i re . r un is a cc t c Yo k h A o d th , house of the u us ini an an ns the wn and ar ur e l A g t C o , to h bo d ve oped . Founded during the reign of the first Henry by Walter de aun ri li n ri r s n e ame one the eal i G t, B d ngto P o y oo b c of w th est an m infl i ni i in e n d ost uent al commu t es th orth country . It ex ercised a particularly ex tensive patronage in the matter of benefices ; it could lay clai m to a seize upon all goods and chattels of fugitives or criminals who came within its un ari es and a e er re a e was r n u on bo d , to wh t v w ck g th ow p ’ the as e ween lam r u e and Ear co t b t F bo o gh Dyk l s Dyke . I m n s m re er aine ermi ssi n f ts o k , o ov , obt d p o to forti y the ri r a ains the inr a s ira es and e ere r P o y g t o d of p t , th y w g anted a market charter and leave to hold a fai r at a very early ri r as it ri inall s er n w date . Of the P o y o g y tood th e o remains — the nave of the church ex cellently res tored by Sir Gilbert and now the aris ur the n—and a at Scott, p h ch ch of tow g e In the house known as the Bayle Gate . upper chamber of is a e use the ri r as l r the man r a mini s er th g t ho p o , o d of o , d t ed us i e a l er one alle the Ki deote ser e as a ri j t c ; ow , c d , v d p son . About the gatehouse and in the church there are many

in eres in remains arvin s and ins ri i ns . t t g , c g c pt o 1 1 THE ENC 0 HANTING NORTH .

There are several interes ting historical events recorded in nne i n i ri lin n and n ne m re so t an co ct o w th B d gto , o o h the a en ure i c e ell ueen enri e a aria wi dv t wh h b f Q H tt M , fe of

arles . lan e at he ua in e ruar 16 o Ch I who d d t Q y F b y, 43 , n her re urn r m hi er she ha urn i t f o Holland, w th d jo eyed n or er rai se m ne f r alis a d to o y o the Roy t c use . She was in n a u flee un er mi ral r m and mana e co voy of D tch t , d Ad T o p, g d to land in safety and to get ashore a large quantity of arms and ammuni i n h had r i h t o which s e b ought w th er. But a arli amen arian ee ai ni n in elli en e of her arri al P t fl t, g g t g c v , saile in ri lin n Ba a er her and di re e su a d to B d gto y ft , ct d ch bombardment upon the quart er of the town in whi ch she la a the ueen a in ne b ed was li e y th t Q , h v g go to , ob g d to ” es a e urrie l i no m re . on her an her s i c p h d y w th o th h ft , as the c roni e a and a r u i a i c h cl rs decl re ) to t ke ef ge n d t h, from whence she was eventually rescued and taken to

n n all u si e the n. Boy to H , o t d tow

i the ex e i n a few i s a u the l ar r W th c pt o of b t bo t o d h bou , f e i ur Bridlington Quay h as little o th p ct esque . It is ess entially a asi e a erin - la e the ular e i a n an se d w t g p c of pop typ , w th bu d t an amu emen facili ties for pleasure d s t . It possesses two fine ra es and e le l e a i n ma ere in u pa d , p op who ov bo t g y h d lge ’ i ar s n n I their liki ng to the r he t co te t . ts great glory is i ma nifi en ba hi s ee s r un r m lam r u ts g c t y, w ch w p o d f o F bo o gh ea in a s len i re ular ur e i li steni n al H d p d d g c v of h gh, g g ch k In bad ea er undre s s i s ma e for ri li n clifls . w th h d of h p k B d g on Ba hi is in ee the nl ar ur re u e al n t y, w ch , d d , o y h bo of f g o g s u t ere was s me ears a o a r e for the coa t , tho gh h o y g p oj ct

a i n an artifi ial one ofl Re ar. e er eles s in s i e m k g c dc N v th , p t r a r ec in ram ar Flam r u ea t ere of the g e t p ot t g p t of bo o gh H d, h nsi era le i len e in the ba and a sad are storms of co d b v o c y, n — a e ruar 10th 18 1—ma memento of o e th t of F b y , 7 y be — seen in the churchyard of the Pri ory Church a monument erected over one large grave wherein rest the bodies of

-six m i man ers mem er h forty en who, w th y oth , b s of t e crews a lar e fis i n ee were r ne in si an d of g h g fl t , d ow d ght of l d, an

1 1 1 FLAMBOROUGH . in the pres ence of a vas t concourse powerles s to give them

— Flamborough Head in all likelihood the Ocellurn Pro — montari am of Ptolemy is the fitti ng termination to one In a of the most delightful di stricts on the British Coas t . certain sense the entire headland is cut off from the res t ’ an e a u le en ren men of Yorkshi re by the D es Dyk , do b t ch t r rom rt s u which runs across the promonto y f no h to o th, is not between the villages of Marton and Flamborough . It so many years ago that the folk who lived within the headland thus enclosed looked upon all people living across ” e e as orei ners and it is ert ai n a in er th Dyk f g , c th t t marriage of families was as much the accepted rule as it still is in some of the remote dales on the wes tern side of i u mili ar aut ri i es a the the county . It s s pposed by t y ho t th t Dyke was one of a seri es of entrenchments made by in a ers c ns ru t e lines e en e the ur er e v d , who o t c d of d f c f th th y a an ed in the c un r and t is t e r is su s an ia e dv c to o t y , h h o y b t t t d by the fact that similar earthworks are found at succes sive l stages of a journey westward across the Wo ds .

The village of Flamborough is essentially a village of fis in and fis herm en and its c ur is na urall e i a e h g , h ch t y d d c t d ’ man s a r n sai n was n to . s al the fisher . o e St O w d , p t o t It of the many churches belongi ng to the Augus tini an Canons of

ri li n t n and n ains a fine mod-screen and a ra B d g o , co t b s s in em r Sir armaduk e ons a le u at m o y of M C t b , who fo ght

- lo en iel . lose is an an ie n a er F dd F d C by c t w tch tow , the enea e f history of which is obscure . B th th clif s are some ’ fin a es — in e s le sai a e een us e c v Rob Lyth Ho , d to h v b ed by a smu ler a name and ir le hi is ai —a gg of th t K k Ho , w ch s d l call — ex ten a in ex a l eneat the o y to d to po t ct y b h church. To some people the most noteworthy obj ect on or about the ea ill u less be the i t use erc 2 0 H d w do bt L gh ho , p hed 5 feet a e the sea and 8 ee i in i sel se arni n bov , 5 f t h gh t f, who w g lare is seen far out at sea and far al n the g o g coas t . To as cen the on a in da en the i n d to top w ter y, wh w ds are 1 12 THE E NCHANTING NORTH .

o lin and the sea- ir s scree hi n and all a h w g b d c g, N ture seems ali e i s rm and wre is an ex eri ence not n v w th to ck, p soo to

The cli ff scenery between Flamborough and Filey is the n r li most strikin g o the Yorkshi e Coas t . A ttle beyond the ’ northern outlet of the Danes Dyke the clifls rise to a height nearl 0 ee and are seen the rea es a an a e of y 45 f t , to g t t dv t g at em on and ee n ere m ri ads sea i B pt Sp to , wh y of b rds nest

in t ei r led es . r m t is in e er e raduall h g F o h po t , how v , th y g y dro a a un il ile is rea e ere e are p w y t F y ch d , wh th y little more

an an er an i n an a e the ea . ere is th ov h g g b k bov b ch Th , in ee er li le a can be alle s ener a u ile d d , v y tt th t c d c y bo t F y,

hi is an en irel mo ern a erin - la e un e n w ch t y d w t g p c , fo d d upo the si e an old- rl fis in villa e but it has a fine t of wo d h g g , s re ba a s len i and len ex anse eac t tch of y, p d d gthy p of b h ,

i firm san s and its old ransi ional- a w th d , T t Norm n church an er the man e i a e ( oth of y d d c t d to St . Oswald) has several

in eres in ea ures . The rea s la e ile is t t g f t g t how p c of F y , ’ urse its am us ri a low r k r m n of co , f o B g, oc y p o o tory f t end which runs out into the sea or about a mile . At he of thi s curious ledge a hell is fix ed which tolls perpetually in the most di smal and soul- depressing fashion — — There is a nice and almost a humorous gradation about

- the r s i re sea si e res r s . the rin i al ur ri Yo k h d o t Of p c p fo , B d lin u i ular and an Holi da ish i is ra e gto s pop B k y Wh tby g v , li e ar ar is i and aris ra ic ile is us the la e for t r y , t t c toc t F y j t p c one mo nin u les old mai s and amilies car r u h y o g co p , d , f ; S bo o gh is ile Whi and ri lin n all r lle in o one . ere F y , tby B d gto o d t Th is in lain ru no sea-si e a erin - la e in En lan , p t th, d w t g p c g d which can equal Scarborough in one part icular quality is ui e rue a innumera le ri rai ns variety. It q t t th t b t p t roll into its station at unearthly hours almost every day in summer but it is us as rue a er ai n se i ns its , j t t th t c t ct o of South Cliff are canopied over and curtained round with an n i atrnOSphere of the most ex clusive a d dignified qual ty. ar r u in s r is the m en ium the vir ues and Sc bo o gh, ho t , co p d of t

C 1 S ARBOROUGH . 1 3

e er o r m the eer ea an n v y b dy, f o p to the p s t . You can spe d as much as you lik e in Scarborough you can also spend us as much as u j t yo can aflord. It is a res ort of elasti c

a a ities . And e er ou s en mu or lit le ou can c p c wh th y p d ch t , y always enjoy yourself in making the most out of a town i i u has the fines na ti n and wh ch, w tho t doubt, t tural situa o s ener an a erin - n our c y of y w t g place o coasts .

the real ra eller— a is sa man To t v th t to y, to the who reall l es n s met in the la es i he is i s y ov to k ow o h g of p c wh ch v t , and does not rely on the mere pleasure of the sight for his — gratificati on Scarborough is one of the most delightful ns is n t m u n a rin tow in England. It o erely the Q ee of W te g la es a ti le s me ime laime for ri n but one P c ( t o t s c d B ghto , to which that much-over-rated London-by-the-Sea has no ri but an an ien u is r ass ia i ns ght), c t boro gh of h to ic oc t o , wherein the man of perception sees a good many things

unseen the un n in . ui e na urall the an i uar by k ow g Q t t y, t q y , the archa olo ist and the ma who n ws nex t n in g , n k o to oth g of ei er an i ui ies or ar e l but l es er th t q t ch o ogy, who ov to pott a u old la es urns firs all at car r u a bo t p c , t t of S bo o gh to wh t is n wn as the Old n— a eli ul eli i us bit k o Tow th t d ghtf , d c o of queer old houses built in equally queer streets under the southern slope of the Castle Hill and overlooking the

ar ur. No one urse e s an lse s en in h bo , of co , obj ct to ybody e p d g his or her ime on the S a but the l er old- rl t p , ov of wo d ma ers will be n som here a ou andsi e or n tt fou d ew b t S d , Lo g es a e or u tree or the ran old aris urc W t G t , Q ay S t , g d P h Ch h — hi a e or in the as le ar re ons ru in the as . gh bov , C t Y d c t ct g p t And a a n wa in in it one th t past goes back lo g y. Look g to sees ar l H ilin in car r u in 10 an d H o d ardrada sa g to S bo o gh 55 , sees him and his men climbing to the top of the hill above the li ttle town ; buildi ng up and setting light to a great re s ra and r in lazin masses of it n u n py of t w, th ow g b g dow po

the ro s el . a er one sees the rman as le se of b ow L t No c t , who 1 E 1 4 THE NCHANTING NORTH. kee is s ill a lan mar the un r and the sea a i sin p t d k to co t y , r g on the rocky promontory on which Norseman an d Dane had often gazed with awe as they drew near the English ’ as t . ill la er one sees iers Gaveston a lis i n s co St t P , foo h k g still m re lis a uri e s ar e in mission in a o foo h f vo t , t v d to sub th t a r one wa h om castle . L te yet tches T as Staflord and his r o di s uise as un r men se ure the tle s ra a t o p, g d co t y , c cas by t t em s ill la er its sie es urin the i il War its final g ; t t , g d g C v , urren er an i an lin An l o in n i s d d ts di sm t g. d o k g into o e of ts ruin us am ers in 166 one sees the s u - eart e ua er o ch b 5 to t h d Q k , ’ e r e Fox e in im risonmen e f r ns ien e sa e G o g , k pt p t th re o co c c k un il a ertain a ere n ar n i n a re t c d y wh o Ch les II . co v ced th t the was no harm but ra er mu in him sen wn an , th ch good , , t do or i der of releas e . There s abundance of history in Scar — borough it gives a zest to everything else that Scarborough can sh its i i ow v s tors .

The man who visits Scarborough for mere pleasure would most likely be much surprised to know that the old place was of such import ance seven centuries ago that it was then in resen i rli u as a ma er f sen re a es a amen . B t o d g p t t v to P t , tt a car rou in media val imes was one of the ri nci al f ct , S bo gh t p p sea rts of r shi re— ssi l on e i en e the m s po Yo k po b y , v d c , o t

im r an . ik e e n it en n as ull r se u and po t t L H do , w t dow H o p , by the seventeen th century its trade with the countries across the North Sea had dwindled to almost nothing. It was f r una e a a er ai n Mis arr escri e o t t th t c t tress F ow, d b d by i ie in his Sc borou h s nse Dr. W tt ar g Spare as a lady of e and in ell en e is ere s me h re a the ime a t ig c , d cov d o w e bout t th t

was a - l ure J ames I . neari ng his end spring of red co o d a er the S ri n at the n r en the S a i w t ( p g o th d of p ) , wh ch proved to posses s such medicinal virtues that the quality r m far an near am i e ame at firs to f o d c e to try t . Th y c t ri n is a er a ter ar s a in un a the ar d k th w t ; f w d , h v g fo d th t Sc

r u sands ere firm and sa e e ame a e . bo o gh w f , th y c to b th — And little by little and subsequently at a considerable rate of s ee —S ar rou re in a it is a ustlin p d c bo gh g w to wh t , b g,

1 1 SCARBOROUGH . 5 go- ah ead seaside res ort where all tastes are studi ed and can be sui e and erein the arm the is eli ull t d, wh ch of old d ghtf y mi i Yo can ngled w th t he utili ty of the new. u get every thing at Scarborough that you can get in any seaside res ort in Eur e ex ce rou e- d -noi r roulette and oms -chew s“ op ( pt g , , p ) and you can also get something which no other Engli sh — coas t town can give you in equal measure a blending of

man en and r - hi s r r ce le es en da interes . to y , o , g d p t y t

is im ssi le wi hi n ri e m ass ell an ne It po b , t b f co p , to t yo to in car rou But ere e Ol n what see S bo gh . th is th d Tow i sel wi its uain s ree s and old uses ere is the t f, th q t t t ho ; th as le an d its ou er ar or astle reen ere is the C t t W d, C G ; th fine old Pari sh Church (in the churchyard of which Anne ’ r n e: is urie an d ere is li er s oun r m th B o t b d) th O v M t , f o e summi i ere are fine vi e s in all i r c on I t of wh ch th w d e ti s . n the useum ere is s ore a olle ion an i i M th t d good c ct of t quit es . Th i ous in s s r asil n An in a on e obv th g to ee a e e y see . d ddi ti to the in s hi ma be seen in ar r u i sel the th g w ch y Sc bo o gh t f, town as a seaside resort has a further attraction and value in the fact that it forms a very advantageous centre from which to ex plore the very diversified scenery in its neighbour on the as es e i a in n rt ar and on hood , both co t ( p c lly go g o hw d) h rs i c o r i t e moo wh h li e t the west and north . F om t the fine as s ener as far as i the es ern e the co t c y Wh tby , w t dge of rt r ors an d th nor ern of the r hi r No h Yo k Mo , e th parts Yo ks e o s m vi i wi l a be s ed ease an ri . W d , y t th d cele ty

From Scarborough it is a very conveni ent matter to ex plore that stretch of the Yorkshi re Derwent which pas ses r u r e alle and one ma ere remar i th o gh Fo g V y, y h k w th jus tice that tourists and holiday makers who neglect thi s — delightful bit of country while visiting North east Yorkshire mak e a er seri us mis ak e . ere is it is rue n hin v y o t Th , t , ot g ” er in i in in the name r e alle but had it rne v y v t g Fo g V y, bo some romantic title it could scarcely have been prettier than it is in the neighbourhood of Everley and around ac ness hi is er ai nl one of he c in H k , w ch c t y t most harm g 1 16 THE E NCHANTING NORTH .

places in Yorkshi re . The stream which inters ects the valley runs beneath avenues of trees and through pastoral scenery a er leasin and re res in na ure hi e en uall of v y p g f h g t , w ch v t y e in an a roa o th a d velops to pp ch t e wild nd mountai nous . B i a re sho ut t h s mo to w than the merely pictures que . Hacknes s and its ancient church form one of the oldest ris iani in th centres of Ch t ty e north country. It goes back

the ime . il a of i es a lis d a to t of St H d Wh tby, who t b he religious house here in the year previous to her death in enera le el i 680 . The V b Bede t ls in h s hi story of those days

a one e u the . ees the alen ar ei resi n th t B g ( St B of c d ) , b ng de t ’ at a kness at a eri o saw on the ni H c th t p d, ght of Hilda s ea her s ul arrie ea en an T o d th o c d to h v by gels . he h use at Hackness was destroyed by a Norse marauding force about 8 0 and was re uil the ri r hi ar s the 7 , b t by P o of W tby tow d n en en w in a e d of the elev th c tury. It as ex is tence t th e ime the iss lu i n but had a f t of D o t o , then only ew monks in res i e In e ur ere ar denc . th ch ch h e several remains of the ri i nal rman ar i e ure some Sax n ra men s and o g No ch t ct , o f g t ,

e O ham relan i n memor of er ain the to th g of I d) , y c t of

Northward of Hacknea the moors rise high above the e are ere i en re n men and tumuli and sea. Th y cov d w th t ch ts , above Cloughton and between it and the eminence known ’ as Three Howes there is a Druid s Circle whi ch it is worth

im in he ills see. Ra enscar now e elo in in cl b g t h to At v , d v p g to -si res rt and cu in a er remar a le si i n a sea de o , oc py g v y k b po t o ,

- e one is over six hundred feet above sea level. Fro m th gardens at the head of the clifl there are ex t ensive views lan and c as and es e i all the r man i all -si ua ed of d o t, p c y of o t c y t t ’ R in s Ba the n rt ar hi is rea h e fr m ob Hood y to o hw d, w ch c d o Scarborough by a line of railway whi ch affords fine prospects i i o of some of the most str king scenery n th e N rth.

fishin illa es an d ene er one isi s it one eels g v g , wh v v t f

’ 1 1 ROBIN HOOD S BAY . 7

constrained to wish that nobody had ever discovered it but

has een at r an d e een it and lin thor e has b wo k, b tw Fy g p uil a num r m ern uses illas and un al s b t be of od ho , v b g ow

so - alle at i no one s ul l as he ma es his ( c d), wh ch ho d ook k way down to the quai nt an d queer little cluster of cottages lan s lying between two sister clifis at the foot of the head d . No one surely ever saw quite such a strangely built place as this ! It is scarcely ex aggeration to say that you can step ofi the threshold of one house on to the roof of an er or l o ut ur own in o n ur oth , o k o of yo w d w dow yo ’ neighbour s chimney : it is certai nly none to say that a good many houses were built so close upon the edge of en all l o em is als the cliffs that they ev tu y fe l ver th . It o recorded that upon one occas ion a ves sel being driven ashore poked its bowsprit into the window of the inn - an accident i l ull which might very eas ly occur again . A de ightf y i tures ue uain la e is and e er it e er was p c q , q t p c th , wh th v nne e wi a m s eri us u la o in or not co ct d th th t y t o o t w R b Hood , it is a la e erein l ers he an ien i s the p c wh ov of t c t th ng , of

smell of the sea and of st ri ere f ol r n - a e , o es th o t d by b ow f c d en lemen in lue erse s se e es are er e uall on g t b j y , who y p p t y the l -out ill en o ui e e and e i i eir ook , w j y q tud b aut ful a r to th ’ hearts content .

In Whitby one finds one of the mos t strikingly- situated la es in En lan an d a eal m in eres in p c g d, w th of ost t t g

is ori al and li erar ass cia i ons . re a o h t c t y o t He St . Hild f unded the great monastery which was destined to become the rem s ouse of learnin in the n r fo o t h g o th country. Here

ae mon the - er a er En lis e r was m e C d , cow h d, f th of g h po t y, ov d ” sin the e i nni n of crea e in s . ere in the to g b g g t d th g H , res en e in s and rea i ni aries of the ur h was p c of k g g t d g t Ch c , settled (once an d for ever for th e Christian Church in En lan the ex a a e w ere n Ea r sh e g d) ct d t h o ste ould be k pt . es e are i n the far as In m r im r Th p t . o e recent t es the e have been matters connected with Whitby of difierent but 1 18 THE E N N H NCHANTI G ORT . not less n e and not the leas em the a a of ot , t of th f ct th t here were built the vessels with which Captain Cook set a h rl out on his first voy ge round t e wo d .

’ Ori inall alle Streoneshalch Streone s ei i g y c d ( h ght) , Wh tby is not ear of in is or e ore 6 en il a was h d h t y b f 5 7 , wh H d , who at a i me su eri or of a rel i ous use at artle l th t t p ig ho H poo , oun e a m nas er ere for men and o en as f d d o t y h w m . She w su eri r un il her ea in 680 an d urin her rei n had p o t d th , d g g several monks under her rule who afterwards became famous in the ur — St ohn e erle r is o of or Ch ch J of B v y, A chb h p Y k ,

am n st em. She was suc eede the rin ess E lfieda o g th c d by P c , au er swin in of r um erlan who i d ght of O , K g No th b d, w th E lfieda ersel his ueen and m his h f Q , several embers of

amil was urie ere . es r e the rse in 86 f y, b d h D t oy d by No 7 , the house was re established as a Benedictine monas tery for men only about the end of the eleventh or beginni ng h I of t e twelfth century . t had a prosperous if somewhat une en ful ex is en e and at the ime of h i i n v t t c , t t e D ssolut o

was alue a rdi n t o ur n at as . a ear v d , cco g B to , £437 y .

The situation of Whitby Abbey is bold and striking in

n er ul e ree . andin i a e the ri er th e a wo d f d g St g h gh bov v , a ur and the a on a in -swe liff nsi era le h rbo , se , w d pt c of co d b ei it has no a an a e o f en le s reams an d ea e ul h ght , dv t g g t t p c f i ere woods such as one finds about Founta ns or Bolton . Th n i s i ini On one si e li e re is not a tree i t v c ty. d es th g y North Sea ; on the other stretch miles and miles of lonely

'

m rlan . the of the clifi at its eas en is the old oo d At foot , t d, ” o n i the a en un er he ill as ar t w of Wh tby H v d t H , M y Linskill the i e i n elis who di e all s on , g ft d Wh tby ov t , d too o , and to whom there is a monument in the old church ar alle it— wi its uain uses red r fs smell y d, c d th q t ho , oo , of

sm e erri n s and eneral a m s re sal and s il. ok d h g , g t o phe of t o is a ueer old la e and a m s useful il to the newer It q p c , o t fo ar the n on the er si e the ar ur ere p t of tow oth d of h bo , wh there are all th e modern features of the sea-side resort in

- th sha e o els ar in uses and l ure laces . e p of h t , bo d g ho , p eas p

1 1 WHITBY . 9

One must confess that the Eas t Cliff is preferable to the es in a it ossesses the remai ns of the e the W t , th t p Abb y, ueer old s ree s enea the s ai r a no n as urc q t t b th, t w y k w Ch h e s con ainin 1 ste s the e ross erecte on St p ( t g 99 p ) , Abb y C , d a i n the ea lan erl kin the sea and the old po t of h d d ov oo g , aris ur an ex e i nall in eres in uildi n in the P h Ch ch, c pt o y t t g b g , churchyard of which is another cross erected in memory of Caedmon and unveiled by the present Poet- Laureate i n 8 One of the m s in eres in a s in c nnec ion 189 . o t t t g f ct o t with Whitby is that during the summer months the sun — both ri ses and sets over the sea a phenomenon which is r i a i u singularly are n these l t t des .

One the rea a an a es of i a art rom its of g t dv t g Wh tby , p f si ua i on and its ist ri al ass ia i ns is a it orms t t h o c oc t o , th t f a good an d convenient ce ntre for reaching vari ous interesting

i i i ' ma places in ts immedi ate v cin ty. From Whitby one y ” easily ex plore Eskdale and the moorlands which stretch li i an s towards Gui sborough. A ttle way along the coast s S d end a uie seas i e illa e er un the s , q t d v g ov h g by wood of ul ra e the sea of the ar uis rman one the M g v , t M q of No by , of i r i most p ctu esque estates in this d strict of the county . T ere is er li le of the ri inal ul ra e as le le but h v y tt o g M g v C t ft , a remains is of r a ur r al n he coas wh t g e t interest . F the o g t t one c mes uns i a fishin illa e i has a o to R w ck, g v g wh ch ’ certain afiinity to Robi n Hood s Bay in th e fact that most of its houses and cottages look as if they had been specially ne all u n ea er u o l desig d to f po ch oth . B t even m re remarkab e is ai es a m s uri us li le la e i n n rne St th , o t c o tt p c wh ch a yo e jou y ing along the level of the h eadlands would never ex pect fin r e lin the a i in to d. A valley b eaks th e of cliffs t th s po t and is intersec e a s ream on ei er si e of the an t d by t , th d b k

i th ses th illa e ar l r . liffs of wh ch e hou of e v g e c uste ed Two c , one the es one t o the eas name res i el l urn to w t, t, d pect v y Co b Nab and enn Nab shu ai es in r m he sea and It P y , t St th f o t , ’ is us a m s en irel i en r m vie m un th o t t y h dd f o w. This ay acco t for the insulari its e le who e i e ty of p op , are d c d d 120 THE E NCHANTING NORTH .

ara ers a s ur e er eli l ch ct of t dy typ , v y d ghtfu to enco unter . ere as at lam r u in er marria H , F bo o gh, t ge be tween families is the rule and ere are as few iff n , th d ere t surnames as in

a i al els illa e . ai es a ain typ c W h v g At St th , C pt Cook was apprenticed to a small tradesman and it has long been a — local legend also for some considerable time di sproved ’ that he ran away from his mas ter s servi ce with the contents

the ill in his ke . e een ai al of t poc t B tw St thes and S tburn, a li le is an e inlan a e innin ro e is o use tt d t c d, bov Sk g v , L ftho us one se al i o (Loft ) , of ver v llages f the same name in York s ire hi is ele ra f r h , w ch c b ted o its connection wi th a lai dly worrne le n i ge d . It s said that here was encountered and slain a ison us dra n ears o e iz po o go of f m s e . A similar story is l Sockbum on the ees and elli n t n n the to d of T , of K g o o

Saltbum finel si ua e at s me nsi era i , y t t d o co d ble he ght a e the se a is essen i all m ern bov , t y od . To some people its er new a earan e mi be ec i na le bu i in v y pp c ght obj t o b , t t is reali so eal hil and ell la e and has so an ty h t y w p c d, m y na ural a an a es a the ne ness its ric and mor ar t dv t g , th t w of b k t r s an s a e the u le can readily be ove looked . It t d bov o t t of o mini a ure alle s ea in erse e a s ream its tw t v y , ch t ct d by t ; clifis are i its ea nsi era le ex en and er h gh, b ch of co d b t t v y an ell a a e for at in and the ac omm a i n firm d w d pt d b h g, c od t o m fo its i si rs ex ellen . a in al s due n r it is r v to c t F c g o t o th , in winter one of those rare places where one can get an

' z — ani r r Arctic bree e accomp ed by an A ctic appetite . F om l here there are many p easant ex cursions to be made inland. uis ro is eas il acces si le so are el n and U lea G bo ugh y b , Sk to p

am and the un r a u se err in . And th , co t y bo t Ro b y Topp g i an e een Sal bum and e car are villa es nl d, b tw t R d , two g — whi ch no one should miss an opportunity of seeing Marske

In e ld r ar th first -name and Ki rkleatham. th o chu chy d of e d ’ place Captain Cook s father is buried ; in the village itself the Marqui s of Zetland possesses a rather notable an d

12 1 REDCAR.

r Pennyman in the days of Charles I . Ki kleatham is perhaps the most curi ously interesting place in this particular ere is a os i al oun e in the rei n of district . H . H p t , f d d g s r illi am urner r a or of on on Charle II by Si W T , Lo d M y L d , — and intended to accommodate forty inhabitants ten old men as man old men as man s and as man , y wo , y boy y i r ere are se eral o e s n e in is ins i u i on g ls . Th v bj ct of ot th t t t , i s a l museum and li rar —s me fine s ained lass t ch pe , b y o t g two il chairs res en e the err nar a on er g t , p t d by M y Mo ch w d e r e and the ful carving (from Spanish box wood) of St . G o g and a nsi era le num er of s am n s Dragon co d b b book , o g t ’ which is a copy of Walton s Polyglot whi ch is believed The is to have belonged to Oliver Cromwell. church of th village is chiefly remarkable for the fact that it was built

a na i e one o er rne . on ai ns some by t v , R b t Co y It c t good n r h n een r monume ts and a fine b ass of t e seve t th centu y .

From thi s point across country to Redcar the land is a oa in i rom the i rec n dead level. Appr ch g t f d tio of Marton one sees it lon e f re ir lea am is rea ed l in r ll , g b o K k th ch , y g o ed out li e the le el s re e een s en and ru es but k v t tch b tw O t d B g , a r o on a a o even fl tter. Whe ef re e m y say t nce that Redcar i sel is a lace a mono onous a n ss an t f p of t fl t e , d chiefly

alua le i its nei ur or iamese - win - li e sis r v b , w th ghbo ( S t k te , Coatham for its contigui ty to towns like Middlesbrough ini n ill li Es o and m g v ages ke t n . But it has one vas t — advantage few sea- side resorts in England possess such a

on erful s re c of san . r m Eas ath am s w d t t h d F o t Co , pa t e ar as ars e ri a a Saltbum the ea R dc , p t M k , ght w y to , b ch orms a la roun o f firm ar san on i c a million f p yg d , h d d, wh h hi ldren c ul m or a l i s or emsel es and a usan c o d co f t b y d p t th v , tho d e ues rians allo i u u i n he For a q t g p w tho t h rt g t children . th t o a u ne f ct Redcar is uniq e .

126 THE E NCHANTING NORTH .

uil in s its ell- lanned s ree s and ell-lai -out ar b d g , w p t t w d p k, its fine ks and ma nifi en r s r es and urna e doc g c t wo k , fo g f c s , would not bear away the palm from a mushroom city of the ni e a es se ri n i al uil n are U t d St t , who p c p b di gs generally tin and se s ree are en of , who t ts oft ex istent nowhere but

was in 182 th a six en er risi en lemen all It 9 t t p ng g t , of em it is sai mem ers the ie rien s u th , d, b of Soc ty of F d , bo ght five un re a res lan on the sou an the ees h d d c of d th b k of T , for as man un as er r y po ds th e we e acres . On that land

i les r u ar se . The firs ra e was in al but in 18 1 M dd b o gh o t t d co , 3 n au an a l al man is ered iron in the le e an Joh V gh , oc , d cov C v l d i m i lls and in an his ar ner . . ol H , co p y w th p t , H W B ckow, established what is now one of the very larges t steel

a ries in the rl . And sin e en i les rou h f cto wo d c th M dd b g , within a hundred years ago nothi ng but a dreary flat on the an s an un re e ri er has me a fine n b k of d dg d v , beco tow i a undre th usan in a i an s s res of miles w th h d o d h b t t , co of s ree s a r in i s i s ma ni u e can en er t t , po t to wh ch h p of g t d t , and a record of enterprise and hard work of whi ch its u r u e ul see i ou if people are j stly p o d . On sho d M ddlesbr gh onl in of its las urna es its ra le and roar its y to th k b t f c , tt , easeles s s ri in en one e s the sour es of the ees c t v g, wh g t to c T n e Wes trnorland r ers and remem ers t a the a er o th bo d , b h t w t which flows down from the fell-sides in such quiet surround ings will ere long sweep past this modern product of fore i sight and energy on ts way to the North Sea.

On both sides of the Tees be tween Middlesbrough and Darli ngton there is much evidence of the prevailing industry and i n h ur am si e the of the distri ct, es pec ally o t e D h d of

ti r. The line the ees r m the in ere the ri er vo of T , f o po t wh v he or far as r ri e sou enters t N th Sea as C oft B dg , th of arlin n ex i i s s me m s ex ra r inar a ari es D gto , h b t o o t t o d y v g of irec ion and is s and urns a u now n rt now d t , tw t t bo t , o h ,

— from beneath Stockton a typ ically busy coal-ex porting 1 DARLINGTON . 27 — place as if it meant to run far into Yorkshire ; further

on at i let n . e r e it ma es a s ill ee e , M dd o St G o g , k t d p r cut in the un roa a res but at Sockbum to co ty of b d c , incon tinentl an es its min and urns alm s due n r a ain y ch g d t o t o th g . Once free of the gri my and smoky districts it is rather a aki n ri er in ese its las s re es and there are me t g v th , t t tch , so in eres in la es on its an s . arm a ueer li e t t g p c b k Y , q ttl market n i a mo uri us main s ree the a in i tow w th t c o t t, p v g of wh ch is en u uzzle an r inar ers n is r se in o gh to p y o d y p o , wo th e g ; Sockbum fur er al n is the scene of e n m , th o g, y t o e ore ersi n the ra e ni and the ul ra on a er ain v o of b v k ght fo d g , c t Sir hn n ers it is sai a in ere slain a e Jo Co y , d, h v g h great rme i les s had two ea s and nin li wo , wh ch doubt h d e ves ; r t is a ini re s a la e i a s r n of sul C of m atu p p c , w th p i g phur and a er fine urc in i ere are s me n a le ures v y ch h, wh ch th o ot b feat . Hereabouts the Tees begins to show promise of the rare c s beauty into whi h it develop further wes t .

’ Just as it is well worth anyone s time to see Middles r u so it is er ainl a isa le at i s in urn b o gh, c t y dv b th po t to t asi e r ro and see arlin t on not mere f d f om C ft D g , ly or the “ i en in 1 i i sake of a s ght of the g e ( No . wh ch is on v ew at the s a i n and was ri en eor e e ens n t t o , d v by G g St ph o e een on and arlin n on e em er 2 th 182 b tw Stockt D gto S pt b 7 , 5 , the auspicious day which saw the firs t public rai lroad in En lan o ene but for the an e of om arin an er g d p d , ch c c p g oth Tees -side town in its modernity with what it was in some

t i n li e its in an . e e isi in arlin n in the h g k f cy D fo , v t g D gto complimentary and some complimentary things to say of ” it : Darli n ton he ri es is remar a le for its di r g , w t , k b ty si ua i n for a eau iful ur i an i ire risin t t o b t Ch ch, w th h gh Sp g u rom the i s it and for a l n ne ri e p f M d t of good o g Sto B dg ,

er er li le or no a er. is a lar e nsi era le ov v y tt W t It g , co d b a m ar e n re es or and ell su li e . The ar e M k t tow of g t R t , w pp d k t a i ar n n f h pl ce s l ge and co venient . It is oted or t e Linen Manufacture it particularly ex cels in Hugga bags 1 28 THE E NCHANTING NORTH .

Ten uar ers i e i are ma e n ere else in of Q t w d , wh ch d owh

En land and of i as ell as ther inen - lo it g , wh ch, w o L C th, ” sends up large quantities to London . The most interes ti ng in e er ic he un in arlin n was at the th g, how v , wh h fo d D gto os elr erea he s a e i hi s re inue—the Flee e h t y wh t t y d w th t c ,

hi be it no ed is s ill in ex i s en e . rea er ari w ch, t , t t c A g t R ty , ” ma men ion in t is o n he es on was our I y t h T w , go , an lor at the leece Inn name enr ell L d d, F , by H y Lov , who ied in Ma 1 in the rd ear hi s A e and had d y, 739, g3 y of g , e i In e er sin e 1 n n k pt th s v c 688 . He was ever k own to ’ ’ a e one our 5 i nes s nor en the ea -ach h v H S ck , ev H d , tho a ree T0 er Ale s me im for a an d s f p of , o t es D ys Night su essi el but had an ersi n rams all inds cc v y, Av o to D of k , and re ai ne his eari an r his las t d H ng, Sight d Memo y to t

men s . He ne er ma e use e a les nor e er los Mo t v d of Sp ct c , v t a He Tooth . was esteemed in hi s Life and lamented at hi s ea ein of a um rous em r and had the D th , b g h o T pe , ” e r men of a en leman E i a i D po t t G t . v dently very n ce ni a e a e n n and it is an hi Bo f c to h v k ow , pleas t to recall s mem r in nne i on i arlin on ere the ra eller o y co ct w th D gt , wh t v will still find the beauti ful church with the high spire and also a good many interes ting things which were not R b nson rus o wn there when the author of o i C e vi sited the to .

— R R . II . OUND ABOUT G ETA BRIDGE

Between Croft Spa and the meeting of the Tees with its as inatin li le ri u ar the re a us enea the f c g tt t b t y, G t , j t b th Mortham er at e one ra els r u untr Tow Rok by, t v th o gh co y which is perhaps more interesting for its associations than for its ac ual i ures uenes s u a be sure is t p ct q , tho gh th t, to , no m ali n a u ier e ri e an d ai n r of ean qu ty. Rou d bo t P c b dg G fo d n Pier e ri e i sel there are Roman remains of some ote . c b dg t f is on the line of the old Roman road which ran between a i and in es er on the ear and is als a in C tter ck B ch t , W , o po t of some eminence on the modern main highway which runs n n o i ur er under various names from Lo do t Ed nburgh . F th

1 ROKEBY. 29

ri er at W clifle one not nl fin s a si ua i n along the v , y , o y d t t o n i a le eau but an ass i a i n wi one our of co s der b b ty , oc t o th of — li W ifl m us En lis men ohn or cl e . In the ost famo g h J Wyc f, y Rectory here hangs a portrait of the Morning Star of the ” e rma i n s me se i ra ers and no a l R fo t o , o of who b og ph , t b y er au an lai m a he was a uall rn in is Rob t V gh , c th t ct y bo th ari s in i ere was i u u a amil the p h, wh ch th w tho t do bt f y of n hi s men nam e a s own ime . elan se a e s e ex ist t bout t L d, who t t t

e no al a ma e r m first - an e i en e sa s a w re t w ys d f o h d v d c , y th t ” o n W clifle the ere i was b rn at S reswell a r J h y , h t c, o p , poo

i a n r ers small place south of Easby Abbey. This s co t ov y i ill ne er be se le but one ma be r i en if wh ch w v tt d, y fo g v , in isi in W clifle ere t ere is s met in to see one v t g y , wh h o h g , ’ ’ ’ o au an s Zouch s and to ir e s ini n h lds to V gh , to B kb ck op o that the heretic really was born in the village which n bears hi s ame .

Round about Rokeby and Greta Bridge lies some of the most charming and beautiful country in the North of En lan Th ee in re a wi the ees ma es g d. e m t g of the G t th T k one the fines i s ri er s ener in the rl and of t b t of v c y wo d, has been painted by a hundred and one artists of more or

less n e in lu i n the rea . . . urner. ere the ot , c d g g t J M W T H re a mes u lin o n r u a ree- ano ie len G t co t mb g d w th o gh t c p d g , er u e r c s and ul ers in r es wi the ees ov h g o k bo d , to jo fo c th T , i n s i l tself flowing over a sto y bed. Thi s a p ace wherein lin er On one si e is e —romanti s l an ull to g . d Rok by c, y v f of association with Sir Walter Scott on the other is Greta ri e i its rea r m old- as i one ouses and its B dg , w th g t , oo y, f h d h l l e li rar associ ations with Charles Dickens . Fo k who ov te y associations with a fine envi ronment might spend a most delightful week at this point of the Tees with daily profit

Greta Bridge is nothing more to the eye than a few very large houses situated near the little river from which the la e ak es its name a p c t . On the old Roman ro d which ran E E 130 TH NCHANTING NORTH .

from Scotch Corner through Bowes an d across Stainmore m rlan it was rea im r an e as a s in into Wes t o d, of g t po t c po t g

i n in the a in a s . ere on anuar x st 18 8 stat o co ch g d y H , J y 3 , 3 , arles i c ens and B ablot K r ne the art is came Ch D k B ow , t, and put up at th e New Inn (the house now known as or ran e an d use as a arms ea erea e Th p G g d f t d), wh t th y in ervie e a l al armer who was ma e ser e as the t w d oc f , d to v

original of John Browdi e in N i cholas N i ckleby. From re a ri e e r ee e nex da to arnar as le G t B dg th y p oc d d , t y, B d C t , ’ ere a er as in th e ale at the in s ea of wh , ft t t g good K g H d, i ewman s a er ar s s e so eelin l wh ch poor N Nogg ft w d pok f g y, a r ai n Mr m re a l mak er i ens in er i e e e . u D ck t v w d c t H ph y, c ock , wh o made periodi cal visits to the schools in the distri ct f ur o e in i n u the l s i ens ersua e or the p p s of w d g p c ock . D ck p d d Humphrey to take him with him as hi s assistan t on one ese ex edi i ns and th ere ot an insi in o the of th p t o , by g ght t working and actual condi tions of one of those hells -upon earth which he so merciles sly ex posed under the name of is usuall hel th a the man om Dotheboys Hall. It y d t wh Di ckens had in mind in creating the character of Wackford on illi am a e an a em Squeers was e W Sh w, who k pt Ac d y

es near re a ri e . et er he was or not i t at Bow , G t B dg Wh h , is certai n that Shaw was one of a group of so -called ’ rs of ou s e es a lis men s in thi s instructo y th , who k pt t b h t remote region whereat un fortunate boys were carefully kept n out of the way of unnatural parents or unwilli g guardi ans . Wh at sort o f schools th ese were may easily be gathered e ll in a er isemen ic a eare in the from th fo ow g dv t t , wh h pp d N orfolk Chroni cle in 1775

A oardi n School at Stairforth near Barnar astle B g , d C , rks hir Y ar e made ro ci ent in th e lan ua es as Yo e . ouths p fi g g

well as sci ences b Wa cu Ki r ri de and as sis tants . The , y r p kb u ils are oarded cloath ed and su li ed wi t h all necessari es p p b , pp Tw l P un s r h F or charact er and r uta at e ve o d p e year eac . ep i on and usa e o f t he chi ldren en uir ma b e made of t g , q y y many gent eel fami lies in N orwi ch whose children are now educat i n several of whose arents h ave een at th e schoo l g, p b ” in person .

E 132 TH ENCHANTING NORTH . is i i the Mortham er lose the w th Rokeby, w th Tow c to re a i ri nall an s and i the scener r un G t , w th B g B k , w th y a o d E les e one ul lass his m Rok b gg ton Abb y . No wo d c poe e y i he a o the Last Mi nstrel or The Lad o the w th T L y f , y f ake but it ssesses a remar a le ir ue in the nder ul L , po k b v t wo f fidelity whi ch is ex hi bited in its descripti ons of the scenery the main fr m ence i i surroundi ng do o wh t derives ts title . e er r a s did the reat a i i an the r N v , pe h p , g M g c of No th tak e such pai ns to make himself thoroughly an courant wi th the characteris tics of the scenes which he set himself to M rri t a isi in Mr. o t t e f th fi descri be . V t g Rok by or e rs t time in e summer 180 he seems a allen in l e i th of 9 , to h ve f ov w th ” the istri at n e . is he sa s writi a rien d ct o c It , y , ng to f d, ne h s en i a le laces a e e er seen a it o of t e mo t v b p I h v v , s

i the r man i arie len rren and se i w th o t c v ty of g , to t cop wh ch ’ c r dignifies our northern s ene y . Sir Walter conceived the notion of writing a poem under the title of Rokeby two ears la er and i si e the la e in 18 12 in r er to ak y t , v t d p c o d m e i n He was not he onl h furth er observat o s . t y poet w o admired ’ — i was a a uri e aun illiam as n s th Rokeby t f vo t h t of W M o , e e and the i ra er of ra el e to lan a po t, b og ph G y , who h p d p

- e ar r m whenm er is a er summer house in th p k, f o th e v y In he use erein ese eminen men ere fine Vi ew. t ho wh th t w entertained by a hospitable host there are some Roman ain s me art reasures but the rea a rem s and o t , g t tre sure of all the am us enus elas uez is now in the a i nal , f o V of V q , N t o

ller a in een sol the na i n . Ga y, h v g b d to t o

From Rokeby Park one may pass over the Dairy Bridge un er i a r in lo al ra i i n the s a ( d wh ch, cco d g to c t d t o , gho t of a i e in a in sil was n e in l n l headless lady, h b t d flo t g k, o c o e y durance pent by ecclesi astical power until a flood partly swept the bridge away) to th e high ground on the opposite th re a r ne the s uare n n side of e G t , c ow d by q peel k ow as er the name ein a a am Morth am Tow , b g th t of f ily whi ch an s re i us th e amil held these l d p v o to f y of Rokeby. Th e

1 34 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

e er in the fi een en ur has s me a iti ns tow r, ected ft th c t y, o dd o

ix een and is now in use as a arm use . Le t of the s t th , f ho into a flight of stairs in the farmyard is a stone whereon f h Rokeb s i its ree ro s is scul ure the shi eld o t e y w th th ok pt d , s airs i i n the and there is a similar stone within . The t w th peel are said to have been the scene of the murder of the la h se os was im ris ne un er the ri e and er ai n dy w o gh t p o d d b dg , c t r o stains upon them are said to be from he blo d .

Sir Walter Scott was particularly enamoured of the country which lies along the Greta in the direction of ar ill ere t ere are the rui ns an an ien ur the Sc g , wh h of c t ch ch , remains of a as le and in the len el the illa e th e c t , , g b ow v g , am us ri nall an s hic he mmem ra e in ell f o B g B k . w h co o t d w known verses O ri nall ank s are wild and fai r , B g B , And Greta Woo s are reen d g , And you may gath er garlands there Wo uld grace a s ummer queen I

And in ru the scener erea u s a m ination of , t th, y h bo t , co b

a er and r c is er s ri in . Yet it was r u h wood , w t o k, v y t k g th o g thi s delightful and romantic stretch of country that the el n o e the rizzli es eas a e er was use t o F o S w , g t b t th t v , d her al s a roa un il a cor in the old allad take w k b d t , c d g to b , — — Ralph of Rokeby gave her for bacon to the Grey Friars of

i m n ai lin to ersua e her ic m n - ar s i th R ch o d, who , f g p d R h o d w d w a in lemen s or an t in else were li e sla her L t cajo t y h g , ob g d to y .

Between Rokeby and Barnard Cas tle the roads ide scene ry is sin ularl l el at an ime the ear and es ciall g y ov y y t of y , pe y in a a t n r m on a fine day e rly u um . F o the Abbey Bridge

ere are eau iful ie s of the ees ree -ens rou e as it th b t v w T , t h d d

ma es its wa seawar ver a r c bed. n it near k y d o o ky I to , this in runs Thors ill ere a narr s ream nds po t , g , wh ow t desce rou h a mini a ure alle the si es i s a e th g t v y, d of wh ch are h d d fine clrns and ashes of onsi era le siz e his by c d b e . Abov t , on a ree n noll commandin the r a s h a g k g o d , tands all t t remain s E les on be of gg t Ab y , wil an w d d as te . Profan d disho nour d nd d f c e , e a e a e d ,

1 THE 36 ENCHANTING NORTH .

es e u n the Earls ar i and in due im b tow d po of W w ck, t e it passed into the han ds of the Crown agai n by the marri age

nne au er arwi the in -ma er of A , d ght of W ck, k g k , by her marriage to the much-discussed prince who was eventually w n Richard III . It as Crow property at the time of the “ Risin the r en it was esie e el g of No th, wh b ged by th reb Earls or um erlan and es m rlan and e en of N th b d W t o d, d f ded Sir e r e o e un er wen e by G o g B w s. It d t yet anoth r si ege uri n the ivil War en Sir enr an arris ne d g C , wh H y V e g o d it for th e alis s a i n a o i Roy t . Th t t must have bee f rm dable stronghold ere it fell upon evil days is eviden t from the mains an fr m i r si ua n an n re d o the t tio . It st ds upo a rocky r m n r nsi era l er a un re ee a o e the p o o to y, co d b y ov h d d f t b v Tees ; and on the north side was protected by the Percy

e and on th e n rt and as an ar ifi ial i . B ck, o h e t by t c d tch

Mr. lar in hi s r on Medie al ili ar r i ec ure C k, wo k v M t y A ch t t , s ea s the ee as one the fines u not lar es p k of k p of t, tho gh g t, ” un in n w rom th of ro d towers E gland . It as f e summit thi s tower that Sir Walter Scott viewed the magnificent prospect which prompted one of the most famous o f the an fin escri i ns s ener in o e and im elled m y e d pt o of c y R k by, p ’ him to bestow upon proud Bernard s bannered walls el al the title of Sovereign of the lov y v e .

ur of arnar as le res red in The pari sh ch ch B d C t , though to m ern imes n ains some remains of the rman and od t , co t No er en icular s les arc i e ure and a s ne fi ure P p d ty of h t ct , to g of er Mortham i ar ai n r a illa e on the Rob t of , V c of G fo d, v g

arlin n r a in the ur een en ur . The l es D gto o d, fo t th c t y o d t S ecimen archi ec ure in the n nex to ur and p of t t tow , t ch ch as le is the old use in the main s ree kno n as Bla roves c t , ho t t w g , a quaint structure in which Oliver Cromwell is sai d to have l a c nsi era le odged when he was in this distri ct . Of o d b ’ an i ui is the in s ea Inn erea arles t q ty, too , K g H d , wh t Ch i ens ut hi msel u in 18 8 en he ame n D ck p f p 3 , wh c dow to the North on hi s crusade agai nst the Yorkshi re schools . — Though he only stayed in the house two nights February

1 8 HE E 3 T NCHANTING NORTH .

is ur am e er wi a s a on e em er B hop of D h £5 . tog th th t g, S pt b ’ 18th . u er s Da e er ear it was a ex am le , St C thb t y, v y y ) , good p of the ol u s i ai a se en un red d fe dal hou e. It s s d th t v h d ni s all re ainers the illes use ine e er k ght , t of Nev , d to d tog th in the rea all and it is ma er hi s r a in a g t h , tt of to y th t th t hall one of the meetings of the disaffected Catholics was — — held 1569 whereat the complai nts were ventilated which s ee il in rt Th a risin p d y resulted the Ris ing of the No h . t g cos the e illes eir as and lan s and s me em t N v th c tle d , o of th eir eads an it i kn n a i hin r ears th h , d s well ow th t w t fo ty y of that time certain descendants of the family were in an w t . Lands and castle were eventually bought by the

anes one m Sir enr en er aine arles . ere V , of who , H y, t t d Ch I h , and was r ar a m nar nl ew ded in several w ys by that o ch , o y be e ri e li e e illes e er thi n en he to d p v d , k the N v , of v y g , wh Si e wi fl r was not d d th the Parliament agai nst Stra o d. It un il the rei n a he anes ere firml t g of William III . th t t V w y se le ere and the en ea the amil rea e tt d h , th h d of f y c t d r Th ill ia i ns at a wi Lo d Barnard . ere are st assoc t o R by th the e illes for s m the enan s on the es a e can N v , o e of t t t t trace an unbroken li ne of occupancy through father to son for se eral n uries and in ain ro ur us u si e v ce t , St d p Ch ch , j t o t d the ar h c i o e s of in eres are the e ille p k, t e h ef bj ct t t N v m numen o ts .

— F A L THE IV. ROM BARNARD C ST E TO

W ESTMO RLAND B O RDE R .

North-west of Barnard Cas tle the scenery which surrounds e s r the T e becomes wi lder and more varied in characte .

The . Tees itself is in its higher stretches found hemmed in ro alls an as i S a and at las alli i n by cky w of f t t c h pe , t f ng

awe - s ri in li n t k g sublimity over great shelves of mesto e . Beyond Mi ddleton - in -Teesdale the land becomes something of a s li u e ri sin in i m rs and ells i as one o t d , g to h gh oo f wh ch ,

nears the r er x ima e moun ain us ei s . bo d , appro t to t o h ght Th e railway crosses Bowes Moor and Stai nmore on its way N COTHERSTO E . 139

ir e en es ar r m arnar as le and ere to K kby St ph , w tw d f o B d C t , th is a line as far as i dle n r m the same in but M d to f o po t , when one is once out of the beaten track of road or rail in the wilds and on the heights of Lune Forest or Cronkley e one i s ra i all in a eser lan i n in but F ll p ct c y d t d , w th oth g an occasional shepherd or a startled group of mountain Th i sheep for compan y . ere s a good story told hereabouts of a ou erner a enin in imsel in ese S th who , h pp g to f d h f th soli u es in m an i a armer en uire him t d co p y w th f , q d of how many sheep it was cus tomary thereabouts to allow to an ” a r E re the mer in a e . h ! mon li e ar e s t c , p d f , thoo b g ’ — t wrang end thoo Shoulds t ask hoo many acres gans ti ” — a sheep ! a reply which well characterises the heathery

and limes ne - as c o f th e lan on es e far-off i to y pe t d th he ghts .

owe er e re ra in near to the b r er e H v , b fo d w g too o d th re are certai n Tees -side villages which should be seen on the

wa e een arnar as l an Mi l n - in- y b tw B d C t e d dd eto Teesdale . There is Lartington (a most convenient place from whence to see the two remarkable vi aducts by which the railway is arrie one er the ees — 0 ee l n 1 0 i — the c d, ov T 73 f t o g, 4 h gh er er ee ale— the same len but 20 ee i er oth ov D pd gth, f t h gh ) , ere ere is i ures ue scener and a mansion Lartin wh th p ct q y , g ton all i c n ains eu ex cellen e lo i al H , wh ch o t t g o g c museum an me fin i s e d so e ure . n ere is o ers ne at the p ct Th th C th to , un i n o f the al er i the ees ere ere was a j ct o B d w th T , wh th small as le some ra men s of ic remain on a n ll c t , f g t wh h k o a v bove the rivers . There are se eral thi ngs of note about o is one the lac C therstone . It of p es where the body of

St . Cuthbert is reputed to have rested before it finally settled once and for all at Durham ; its people are nearly all of the persuas ion of William Penn and Geo rge Fox ; and it is am u if not all o er the rl at an ra e as far f o s , v wo d , y t as on on for the ex cellen e the eese i is m u L d , c of ch wh ch an factured in the ai e of its arm o On the d ri s f h uses . moor a e the illa e is a s ne alle the Butters tone erea bov v g to , c d , wh t a mar e was on e el urin a ime la ue and n k t c h d d g t of p g , ear

142 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

ascina ion and its surr undin s are as remar a le as the f t , o g k b all itsel f f.

e n is in es ar all is ri er cra m r and B yo d th po t w tw d v , g, oo i t o i ll. On can et n es at he el at r e or fe e g po h t H gh Fo c , at the li le inn at an n near ic the hree un ies tt L gdo , wh h t co t

- r shire ur am and es m rlan mee . On t ese of Yo k , D h W t o d t h ’ or on Shank s mare one can ex l re Micklefell isi aul r n s p o , v t C d o n u and ma e a uain an e i Cronkle arr and S o t , k cq t c w th y Sc — High Cup Nick all belonging to the Grand Things of a r B e it be remem ere a e all li e out N tu e . ut l t b d th t th y the ea en ra s and s ul be is i e i as mu of B t T ck , ho d v t d w th ch Discri mination and Forethought as with Anticipation and En i thus as m. CHA PTE R II .

W f - - The ear , ro m Ches te r le Stree t to

its S o urce .

HOSE unfortunate people whose only knowledge of th e historic County of Durham (once a County Palati ne under the governance of an ecclesiastical prince whose rule was little Short of regal) is gai ned from the windows of a swi rail a rai n hirlin its wa r m u r h ft w y t , w g y f o So th to No t , or rth u can rm li le i ea a it reall No to So th, fo tt d of wh t y

can S o in the wa eau . rue e et a lim se h w y of b ty T , th y g g p of Durham and its glori ous cathedral as they sweep pas t ’

the ancient i in i . u er s b nes are ens rine c ty wh ch St C thb t o h d, and are doubtless minded to li nger there at the nex t oppor unit But m s of the urne r m arli n n t t y. o t jo y f o D gto to he northern border of the county li es through a region made ’ drear coal i s l n ismal ro s of c lli ers ouses y by p t , o g, d w o h , mu sm e and m re i rt e er i an atm s ere ch ok o d , tog th w th o ph , sical and men al i c su es s the rs ea ures phy t , wh h gg t wo t f t of m ern indus ri No r a er mis a e ever c ali sm. e ul od t g t t k , how , o d be made than to suppose that the county has nothi ng to S in the wa of ancien ruins fine ri er scener and how y t , v y

ea h - cla m or a r e al-fi i h t d o . Aw y f om th co eld distri cts t has 1 44 THE ENCHANTING NORTH . a un an e ea and e en on the e the in us ri a b d c of ch, v dge of d t l area there are places and scenes of great interest in vari ous

No better way of seeing what one may ( a ll the heart of Durham can be found than by commenci ng a tour of the iver ear in the nei ur es er-le - ree R W ghbo hood of Ch t St t, following it southward to the cathedral ci ty from whi ch the

un ak es - its name ence s u ar s ill is co ty t , th o thw d t to B hop uc lan and r m a in es ar r u ear ale A k d , f o th t po t w tw d th o gh W d to the sources of the river under Kilhope Law in the wild un an co try of the Cumberland border. Such ex pedi ti on lea s th e ra er as s rie as les ur es and ancien d t vell p t to d c t , ch ch t ’ uses r u u er s i i sel ast ral ho , th o gh St. C thb t c ty t f, by p o stretches which mak e pleas an t comparison with the slag ea s he mi nin istri s a few miles a a and finall h p of t g d ct w y, y through moorlan d scenery which increases in wildness until the m un th — o tains are reached . It has e advantage all im r an — po t t to the tourist of infini te vari ety .

At Chester-le-Street one is immedi ately in touch with the

n - a am im lies it was a m lo g de d days . As its n e p Ro an s a i n a al -wa ouse as it ere e een Vi nori um t t o , h f y h , w , b tw l l was a lace (Binchester) an d Pans E i i (Newcast e ) . It p of im or an e en and s ill a lace im r an e in ax n p t c th , t p of po t c S o a the S el er its a e ral the m n s in is d ys . To h t of c th d o k of L d u er en e fled farne brought the body of St . C thb t wh th y e re the marau in anes and ere a muc - arri e b fo d g D , h th t h c d about body rested until another Dani sh attack necessitated l a urc was its removal to Ripon. That ear y c thedral ch h of wood ; on its site a stone church was begun about the middle of th e twelfth century ; the present church has — considerable portions of it what is not of it was added ri is one the m s duri ng the nex t three centu es . It of o t eres in c in the un remar a le for i ts int t g hurches co ty, k b f m numen s am n s i c is an an tiquity and or its o t , o g t wh h n me surm un e efi o f . u er sai a e at o e ti gy St C thb t , d to h v o t d hi s tomb.

6 THE E 14 NCHANTING NORTH .

But mean hile the ou ful Larnbton a in re en e him w y th , h v g p t d self of his naughtiness and gone to the Holy Wars to purge his ofience ame me and e i e sla the mons er , c ho d c d d to y t nsul i n which he had drawn from the Wear . Co t g a certain wise oman the nei our she r mise him i w of ghb hood, p o d v ctory over the worm on conditi on that he would slay the first m c n li i n in he et erea er. e in is i i n he v g th g th ft Ac pt g th co d t o , covered himself with mail harness wherein was se t sharp lades and re ai re the r ere the rm la o b , p d to ock wh wo y c iled .

cut i sel ie es hr u eir armt . n or un a el t f to p c t o gh th w h U f t t y, the first person Lambton met after this sanguinary encounter was his own at er and rat er han sla him he n e m f h , h t y o c ore re aire the ise w man let him ofi his ri inal p d to w o , who o g c n i i n but r esie a as a resul his re a in o d t o , p oph d th t t of b k g it no ea the Larnbton amil ul di e in hi s bed , h d of f y wo d fo A o r nine generations . s the Lambt ns of that day were much more incli ned to die out of their beds than in them his terri le hrea had no err rs for ei er a er or son t b t t t o th f th , in i r l who doubtless went home laughing the s eeves . A very — neat fable of the ancient sort this and no doubt intended for the edificati on of youths who showed an incli nation to

- go a fishing on forbidden days .

There is more legend of the good old monkish sort most romantically situated in a wooded valley in a bend

the ear a few miles nor Dur am. i er a u of W , th of h H th , bo t the e i nnin the twd fth en ur ame one dri a b g g of c t y, c Go c, m n in is arne was min e ein a man o k of L d f , who d d, b g of m s aus ere s iri li e a ar in the eser . i e m s o t t p t , to v p t d t L k o t m ri als He was en su in s h had sore . who do ch th g e t , of

urs em t il s i ri . hen he n the alle co e , t p ed by ev p ts T fou d v y s armin it ser en s m he no u hinkin the w g w h p t , who , do bt t g of

x m le th l . a ri ex rcise and ma e e a p of e b essed St P t ck , o d d to

flee . a l es ame wn u n him but en After th t wo v c do po , w t a a r a l n i in ere was n in on him e n w y, p ob b y co s der g th oth g b yo d

1 8 E 4 THE NCHANTING NORTH . the i n sk whi ch covered hi s weary bones . Th en he fell into a hi s m n is r ni lers all laons bitumenali s hi wh t o k h ch o c c , w ch one may reasonably suppose to have been some di sused coal-min in in S i f all ese mi s r un e . Persever g p te o th fo t es he was isi e the less e ir i n and . ar a alen v t d by B d V g St M y M gd ,

i are reser e is er da . And ere a in of wh ch p v d to th v y y h , h v g leare o t the ser en s and ri ene er ai n re a or c d u p t , f ght d c t p d t y co s r nin one t ei r an in the ri er he uil S t by d ow g of h b d v , b t imsel rt ears a er hi s firs min a ur hi h f, fo y y ft t co g, ch ch , w ch in time was greatly enlarged and became the centre of a rior i in i da a e two is s the see p y, wh ch ts y g v b hop to of

ur am But n n ers a . o ri ul a D h . o e wo d wh t St G d c wo d h ve sai of the las ri r Finch ale For he illiam enne d t p o of , W B t, being reli eved of hi s monastic duties at the time of the iss lu i n in on inen l o un himself a i e an d D o t o , c t t y t ok to w f , ere set an ex am le i it is sai the m n s rmerl th by p wh ch, d, o k fo y un o der his charge were not Slow to foll w.

is urse as im ssi le s ea ull ur am It , of co , po b to p k f y of D h an d its magnificent cathedral within circums cribed limits as

r or i n or e erle . ea h all of ese of Yo k, R po , B v y Of c , of th ur laces as all ns and i ies ers a e one fo p , of tow c t ov h dow d by our rea En lis mins ers le lumes a e een of g t g h t , who vo h v b — written without ex hausting the subj ect all that one can do in a few words is to endeavour to give those who have never visited such cities or towns some reason why they m in a er ai n sense is uni ue am n s s ul SO . ur a ho d do D h , c t , q o g t En li i i ua e in a m s r man i g sh cathedral cit es . S t t d o t o t c position in the centre of a district which on its south and east sides is chiefly smoke - blackened and monotonous of as e it n s i sel as an as is in a eser a em p ct , prese t t f o d t, g lin i a ull e les is spark g in the m dst of bed of d p bb . It imposs ible to describe in mere words the beauty of Durham Cathedral as seen from the opposite Side of the river near ’ th e re en ri e ere is no er scene in En lan P b ds B dg . Th oth g d i — the i ri hl - e of ts ex act class the brown river ; h gh, c y wood d

15 0 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

a e and one ears the m n s es er-le - ree s n st t , h of o k of Ch t St t oo retra in ei r s e s ar s the r and on eri n c g th t p tow d No th , w d g , u les s ere e ere in in a me for em do bt , wh th y w go g to f d ho th selves and a lasting shrine for the holy body whi ch they

i m T i s ues i n . u er tle fo carr ed with the . h q t o St C thb t set d r ” m i in eir urne a i lace now the . Com ng th jo y to h gh p , eha e be ar en Law the ier or cofli n in i the b v d to W d , b wh ch remai ns lay became immovable no human power could ” i For ree a s and ni s the r m n s as e lift t . th d y ght poo o k f t d and ra ed seekin for ui an e at the end Of hi p y , g g d c , w ch eri it was re eale one eir num er Be mar p od v d to of th b , d , that the sai nt must be buried once and for all at the place

alle un lm . e er e re no wiser for not a c d D ho e How v , th y we , an n s u a la But m amo g t them had ever heard of s ch p ce . at that time they encountered a woman who was asking su as she met if n au her of ch they had see ght of cow, i c had s ra e and e on ans er her a it had wh h t y d , h ard e w th t een n at un ol And ll in the man is b see D h me . fo ow g wo to th — ’ place the sai nt s body being now agreeable to further — progress they deposited thei r precious burden on the heights o e th e in i n ar an d as ene uil a ur ab v w d g We , h t d to b d ch ch i a fi s c was of a le u s but th e over t . Th t r t chur h w tt d bo gh , s n rem e one s ne er hi as the body was oo ov d to of to , ov w ch centuri es wore on rose the magnificent structure which men all n may see from the land arou d.

And a a ur it is his rea em in s ne risin wh t ch ch , t g t po to , g so proudly above the brown Wear ! And how immssible to Speak in a word or two of the glories which it contai ns i ts ma ni fi en rman na e the fines in En lan of g c t No v , t g d ; of the alilee i seems er an the ra lin ri er G , wh ch to ov h g b w g v far eneat the ir it its ma nificen al ar-s reen b h of cho , w h g t t c ’

the ere r enea i . u er s nes lie of F to y , b th wh ch St C thb t bo un er the s ere rmerl his S ri ne n e the m s d p ot wh fo y h , o c o t rna e in the i m s the a l the ine o t k ngdo , tood ; of ch pe of N l ars erein li e uri e the m s am us me ie al A t , wh b d two of o t f o d v is s ur am—Ri ar de ur r i han ell r b hop of D h ch d B y, Lo d H gh C c o 1 DURHAM . 5 1

f En lan and aut r The Love o Books and o g d ho of f , n was als a ri ar erusalem Antho y Beck, who o P t ch of J and King of the Isle of Man and of all the thousand and one de ai ls ar i e ure s ri e in ws ri l and t of ch t ct , to d w do ch y digh monuments to the illus trious dead which crowd upon one i ans s an our ea n in nave an d cho r and tr ept . M y of gr t E glish cathedrals have not over much to Show ; Durham i s a eri a le mine ri ness r m the rotes ue an uar v t b of ch , f o g q S ct y knocker at the north doorway to the last of the rare manuscri pts in the library .

It is just as impossible to describe in limited space the enormous power which the prince bishops of this see x m e as le - ala e in the Old a h e ercised fro th ir c t p c d ys . T at c mman di n e ifi e u ie the is s un il 18 o g d c , occ p d by b hop t 33 , en it was i en u the ni ersi ur am us wh g v p to U v ty of D h , j t then founded was in reality the seat of government of all ’ the lan i x ees and ne i is ri in n ra d tw t T Ty , wh ch d t ct , co t i s in i n all her En li s oun ties was not n n a d t ct o to ot g h c , k ow s

a un but as the is o ri ur am. ithi n co ty, B h p c of D h W this wides pread area all successive occupants of the see held temporal power (gradually Shorn of its glories from 15 30 18 6 en it was a lis e in the ma er law to 3 , wh bo h d) tt of ; eir s iri ual o er s rea s ill urt er ex t en i n th p t p w p d t f h , d g over r um erlan un il the is ri e as le wa No th b d, t b hop c of N wc t s c in 1 8 In m i a reated 8 1 . ed e val d ys the temporal power was — naturally at its height o ne reads of Anthony Beck going the ars in c lan ll e 1 0 k ni s 26 s an ar to w S ot d fo ow d by 4 ght , t d d earers 00 rse and all mar in un er th b , 5 ho foot, ch g d e

u er . And a a banner of the bles sed St . C thb t t the b ttle of Flodden Field it was the army of the Pri nce Bishop who ou in he van the En lis f On f ght t of g h orces . e occupant of the see ere was m one ul a e t u s th to who , wo d h v ho ght, uch a chan ce of wielding a sceptre scarcely less powerful than ’ — a king s would have appealed with peculiar force Thomas lse i on man s r Wo y. It s e of the y t ange problems of this 1 2 THE E AN 5 NCH TING NORTH .

cu an or rat er hi s en men the re enues oc p cy ( , h , joy t of v ) of the

see he ne er e en rosse its r ers . , v v c d bo d

In an d about the qui et courtyards and cloi stered shades th as le and the a e ral and al n the an s of e c t c th d , o g b k of the river which win ds at the foot of the great promontory ic e r n one uic l r e s a wi hi n wh h th y c ow , q k y fo g t th t t a very short di stance the surro undi ng land is honeycombed with ’ - n and re wi sm e coal mi es g y th ok . To stand on th e Prebends ri e on an a ern on earl summer a c B dg ft o of y , to w t h the s a s in the reamin ear see the sunli i h h dow d g W , to ght g ld t e towers high above the tall trees on the slopes which descend rom the alilee is a c lim ses an ear hl ar f G , to c t h g p of t y p adise. It is a pity that the whole of the City of Durham i s not as eauti ul as the imme i a e s rr undi n s its a he ral b f d t u o g of c t d , but those surroundi ngs are so perfect in themselves an d so unique of their kind that they form sumcient recollection the la e for e er en ra i a i a of p c v , cou g ng des re t the same time

i en a lue sk and ri suns ine mak e a ream g v b y b ght h , d of beauty.

r m urham in ar s is u lan Southward f o D , go g tow d B hop A ck d, be un ra ersin a istri in hi the Wear will fo d t v g d ct w ch, although the unsightly coal-mines and colliery vi llages are i e i en e in it ere is m see somewhat n v d c , th uch to that is

i ur s ue and in eres in . here is ran e e as le p ct e q t t g T B c p th C t , t er the evi lle s r n l s r m en e the ano h of N t o gho d , f o wh c recusant arm set out u n a ill- a ed ex edi i n th e Risin of y po th t f t p t o , g i r . ear t is the er ol . ran on the No th N v y d church of St B d , remar a le ea ures and n for a u i ull full of k b f t , otable bea t f y

e ir-screen the fi teen en ur and an oak carv d cho of f th c t y, i the ur eent a the efi i es reg ster chest of fo t h. Here re g , v la oak and la e e the al ar al car ed in b ck p c d b fore t , of R ph,

c n Earl estm rlan and his ife . me a se o d of W o d, w So wh t ran e is Whit r the sea the southward of B c peth wo th , t of il ha one m the nnie ie ha fam y of S fto, of of who , Bo Bobb S fto

A 1 BISHOP AUCKL ND . 5 3

” im a e n t ri an d ai r and a e h ad h to h v bee bo h b ght f , to h v a am m T er the yellow hai r of which th t f ous rhy e tells . h e are several other interes ting facts in connection with the

untr hereabouts . Old ar ra the aut r the co y At P k, G y, ho of

am us Ele used to isi hi s rien Dr. ar n at f o gy, v t f d Wh to ; in es er the i nori mn the man i inerar ere B ch t , V of Ro t y, th still some remai ns in ex cellent pres ervation at Escomb is a m s remar a le li le ur i h er mu res em l o t k b tt ch ch, wh c v y ch b es some the earlies ur es in r lan and seems a e of t ch ch I e d, to d t ’ from at neares the ei t cen r and at llar s ands , t, gh h tu y Po d L , an u l in ar is u lan one mes a ross o t y g p t of B hop A ck d, co c an aria i n th other v t o of e worm legend. It is sai d that ere one llar sle a en m us ser en or ra n and h Po d w v o o p t d go , that the then bis hop rewarded him with a gift of as much lan as he ul ri e un hi s s i e d co d d aro d while lord h p din d .

T ere is li le see i n is u lan u h tt to B hop A ck d, b t in close r x imi it s ands u klan as le the m p o ty to t A c d C t , odern residence of the Bishops of Durham (and the only one left to them the urt een uses and as les i e nce ossessed of fo ho c t wh ch th y o p ), a finel si ua e s ru ure u in a mman i i y t t d t ct , occ py g co d ng p os tion in a ar onsidera le im nsi n was p k of c b d e o s . It origi nally one of the quietest of the many rural ret reats which the prelate. os essed and did not me in r mi n p , co to p o ence as an episcopal

1660 am us as a res rer re uil i ( f o to , b t t almost entirely. arts it e er o a rman imes I P of , how v , g b ck to No t . ts great ea ure is its a el a fine s ru ure in f t ch p , t ct which several bishops are uri e but the rawin - ro m is i n b d, d g o teresti ng in scarcely less degree because of its gallery of portraits of the occupants n es of the see from some ce turi back.

In the neighbourhood of Bis hop Auckland the We ar is un es en in r m the n rt - es an fo d d c d g f o o h w t, d as one follows it towards its source one finds oneself escaping from the c al-minin di stri s u er a o g ct , tho gh th e re certai nly lead mines and st ne uarri es in e i ence But o q v d . the valley begins to 1 HE E 54 T NCHANTING NORTH .

an r e the la on th ri adv ces westwa d. S veral of p ces e ver are in r i n -le - ear was an an i en as le the te esting. At W tto W c t c t of

Eures at ls in ham . dri Finchale ire no ; Wo g , St Go c of (t d, u his ser en s n e s en ree ears in m an do bt, of p t ) o c p t th y co p y with a hermit who was surrounded by wolves at Stanhope one finds oneself in the capital of the dis tri ct an d in Wear ale er an e is a la e n e it h as had at d prop . St hop p c of ot ; leas two am us urchmen as re rs — u ler au or t f o ch cto B t , th of “ ” the and Bishop Phi llpotts ( Henry of Ex eter ) and the annual value of the living was at one time r the n ran in er the wi e s re m r No th of tow , g g ov d t tch of oo lan now alle an e mm n was the rea untin d c d St hop Co o , g t h g ar the is ur am erein e r e r p k of b hops of D h , wh th y od fo th i a his s lan is n a a w th h wk or hound . T tretch of d ow d ys li l l li i e l u ere tt e ess of a so tude than in the r tim . A tho gh th are now rail a a ili a far a Wearhead the ale is as w y f c ti es s s , d il an r i But w d d soli tary as those of the wes t of Yo ks h re . e er ares it an d lim th e hi r un who v c to follow , to c b to gh g o d a e the s ur es the ear ill am l m ens a e bov o c of W , w be p y co p t d the e r out re by wid stretches of scene y spread befo him.

1 A 56 THE ENCH NTING NORTH . the rt Sea and ma es u its eal - i in r e es No h , k p by h th g v g p op rti what it may lack t o one person in interes t and to another in beauty.

The country whi ch lies immedi ately above the mouth of h ees n r r laren e is i e remar a l for t e T , o th of Po t C c , ch fly k b e the fact that it is usually can opied over by the smoke which pours out of the great iron and steel works which make this modern centre of industry a worthy cousin to Middles ri T er is n in brough across the ver. h e oth g on the coast at is re and li le in the a ri ul ural lan i runs th st tch , tt g c t d wh ch n it a ra an —in ee er is s ar el dow to , to tt ct ybody d d, th e c c y an t in l at ex e the i s an le elan ills y h g to ook c pt d t t C v d H ,

risin re res in l the s u ar . nlan e er a g f h g y to o thw d I d, how v , t reat am t ere is s me i n for the ar e l i s see in G h , h o th g ch o og t to h an ien s i al un e ert i hill is t e c t ho p t fo d d by Rob St c , B hop of rham 1260 in 12 2 and e i a ed him Du ( 7 , d d c t by to

Almi God . ar and . ut ert . was r inall ghty , St M y St C hb It o ig y en e o a mm a e five r ri es s two cler s an int d d t cco od t poo p t , k d - bu i th n mes r la r ers t ur n e rei a . fort y poo y b oth , d g g of J I it was reconstituted as a hospital for thi rteen poor unmarried n here are s me in eres in remnan s in the a e me . T o t t g t ch p l,

am n s em the m Dr. ar e the nl is and o g t th to b of Sp k , o y b hop who ever took his title from the town of Berwick-upon

At Seaton Carew one encounters the firs t of the Durham e res r s—a uai n li le lace ra er uni ue seasid o t q t tt p , th q of its

rt seein a it diflers rom mos m ern a erin - la so , g th t f t od w t g p ces in a t a it is a villa e an i ui uil ar un an the f c th t g of t q ty, b t o d u illa e reen one si e i is l en undo bted v g g , d of wh ch eft op to in the sea. Here one is really at the northern po t of the the ees and r m the rom n r alle ea n mouth of T , f o p o to y c d S to n u ar ea n are r e s a u e rea S ook, so thw d of S to C w, p oj ct h g b k a er hi runs out in the sea ar s a r e i w t , w ch to tow d th t p oj ct ng n e ar from the Yorkshire bank orth of R dc . Between the res lie as san an s i for enturi two sho v t db k , wh ch c es have been in co kles in at erin i th coas - ri ch c , g h g wh ch e t folk have E THE HARTL POOLS . 15 7

a a i n e is a always found a ste dy occup t o . Th re story told by Surtees in his His tory of the County Palatinate of am a r man re a am urs ui n his Durh , of poo of G th who, p g t allin was one e enin unex e e l surr un e the c g , , v g, p ct d y o d d by an He sele tide upon a narro w sandb k. cted the highest ” S sa s the narra r on i he : i e his lea a pot , y to , wh ch 1 c d p (

in his s rim in le i the net wn ards i e fix g h p g po , w th do w , to g v le as sure a ur as e as he ul he m un e the po p ch co d, o t d his h e basket an d held by t e pole . The tid soon covered his an a we as i hi s mi A ee d r uall as le . er f t, g d y flo d h gh dd ft three hours he thought he saw the water begi n to fall in a few mi nu es a reeze s ran u and th but t b p g p , e tide

o e a ain six or se en in es . The ti e e er was fl w d g v ch d , how v , alli n and he remai ne on his san an ill he was f g, d db k t relieved fis in a in th m rnin i i by the h g bo ts e o g. H s s tuation was two miles from the Durham coast and three from York i the i e ean ull in w th w d oc f front . ai i a i He s d t was an wful s ght to look over the waters.

interes ti ng as being in certain res pects the very antithesis c artle l is a ol s th of ea h other. H poo s d a e hills ; Wes t Hartlepool is in a class with Middlesbrough and Goole as regards what some unthi nking and unfeeli ng people would m r t ar le was a la call mushroo g ow h. H t pool p ce of at any rate some importance when Willi am the Conqueror came into these parts ; Wes t Hartlepool had no importance in h mem r of li in m a i with t e o y v g en . Wh t t lacked si x ty ears a o e er it has ma e u for Sin e i a y g , how v , d p c w th ll the insistence and vigour of a healthy infant whi ch means to o n in r in one who l l se o time g ow g up . No ooks around es ar le l d a i its rea s i imm n W t H t poo to y, w th g t dock , ts e se ra e in al and im er its mi are ouses urs in t d co t b , ghty w h b t g

it ns is e n in m re an a few a es Yet co t d of oth g o th cott g . , as the meri ans w ul sa a is so—and a i A c o d y, th t th t t is so is 1 8 HE E 5 T NCHANTING NORTH . one more striking ex ample of what human foresight and

or m a m the la e Mr. . the esi e r . a son f ght c f o t R W J ck , who seems a e had me hi n e e e s He to h v so t g of th y of a eer. planned and brought into being a harbour and a dock hi ere oll we er s in 18 2 18 w ch w f o d by oth dock 5 , 5 3,

and 18 . In ei ears en a h ad een san and 5 5 ght y , th , wh t b d mea was rans rmed in o a ustlin sea a has dow t fo t b g port . Wh t

on the progres s of the place li es in the fact that it received its charter of incorporation just forty years after the first — dock was opened eu honour for which many a town has

ar le l or as it is en alle Eas ar le l H t poo , , oft c d, t H t poo , to of much more interest to the archa ologist and to the s u en hi s r as ell as l ers the i ures ue t d t of to y , w to ov of p ct q , — than Wes t Hartlepool can ever pretend to be a t any rate sm m n hi for several centuries . Standi ng on a all pro o tory w ch u s out de isi el in the r Sea it u ies th e fines j t c v y to No th , occ p t

si i n on the ur am as and the -li e s a e of po t o D h co t, hook k h p the r m n r as it in lines s u ar ser es rm a p o o to y, c o thw d, v to fo natural harbour which was no doubt taken advantage of in imes i we a e l all re ar s the t of wh ch h v ost cord . As reg d derivation of the name of the town there has been much o r n in contr versy . The arms of the town show a ha t sta d g in a l a er and a ere mus a een at some poo of w t , th t th t h ve b

re- is ri ime a mi ores er in a i ed eer p h to c t ghty f t h e , h b t by d of rea si ze is r e the re uen di s eries in the g t , p ov d by f q t cov neighbourhood of large fossil trees and antlers of more than

r i nar dimensi ons . But inlan at a s r is an e is a o d y d, ho t d t c , small n—now no m re n a illa e—ca le ar hi tow o tha v g l d H t, w ch was at one ime the m er- ari s ar le l an d r m t oth p h of H t poo , f o this circumstance it seems probable that the town (whose ' name as we know it is first heard of in the twelfth century)

E 160 THE NCHANTING NORTH . improved during the centuri es whi ch had intervened) s ren ened asti ns a reas wall and ara e and t gth by b o , b t p p t , n th Th there were ten towers to defe d e haven . e great land gate was probably defended by a moat an d drawbridge ; the other gateways an d sallyports were strengt hened as was usual in the mili ar ar i ec ure of the eri and e en e t y ch t t p od , d f d d urre s ese en es ere uil th ma n ian by t t . All th def c w b t of e g es limes ne of the l ali an d the all was a e on ea to oc ty, w f c d ch i e n e s d by smooth square d sto es . Of th se fortifications the u wall i res er a n so th is st ll in ex cellent p v tio .

The finest monument of an tiquity in Hartlepool is also — one of the finest in the County of Durham the church of

. il a hi u ies a l osi i n on an emi nen St H d , w ch occ p bo d p t o ce a e e o n n r una el li e man rea ur bov th t w . U fo t t y, k y g t ch ches

its las s it has sufi ered man i issi u es . ri i nall a of c , y v c t d O g y structure of great size an d dignity of the style of the ransi i nal eri its an el urin the cen uries T t o p od , ch c d g two t succeedi ng the Reformation was neglected an d allowed to e me ruin us wi the resul a it was un neces sar b co o , th t th t fo d y t o di man e it en i r in 1 2 ere now remai ns a nav s tl t ely 7 4 . Th e . i ai sles a small ar the ri inal an el and a w th , p t of o g ch c , er at the es end nearl ei ee in ei ere tow w t , y ghty f t h ght. Th are some in eres in efi i es rasses an d monumen s in the t t g g , b t

ur and in the win -s e ur ar u si e are ch ch, d w pt ch chy d o t d several of those sea- flavoured epitaphs whi ch one invari ably meets in most seaside churchyards anywhere between i Dover and Berw ck.

Hartlepool in its p re -Norman days was associated with

h - makin il a ere a r i n th e e li e . . e t poch g f of St H d H , cco d g to ene ra le e e ere was un e a u th e mi dle the V b B d , th fo d d bo t d of e en en ur a monas er all Hereteu ar -ea s v th c t y t y c ed H t ) , i was r i e er e a an ris oman h ad wh ch p es d d ov by B g , I hw who

a en the ows un er the ui an e of . idan an d had t k v d g d c St A , e a i o in um er alr ady est blished relig ous h uses at St . Bees C b lan and t Monkwearrn u her il a su ee and d a o th . To H d cc ded , from Hereteu she set out in 65 8 with certai n of her nuns

62 ENC AN 1 THE H TING NORTH .

i the elemen s in eir m s a allin rms su as w th t th o t pp g fo , ch ellers the sea am n s the m un ai ns or in similarl dw by , o g t o t , y lonel si ua i ns su as the seein a ari i ns e re y t t o ), ch g of pp to b fo ea h the earin i es in the in or rain and the d t , h g of vo c w d , belief that a dead man must be watched until he is finally o committed to the t mb .

Hartlepool is certai nly the most interesting place on the as ur am an d one eels the rut i s s a emen co t of D h , f t h of th t t t all the more when one comes to inves tigate the coas t between it and Seah am ( now served by a recently constructed ex ensi n rail hi oul be flat and ea ureless t o of way) , w ch w d f t ere it not for the man enes an d urns m s w y d b , o t of

em leasan l a ere an d e hi run in i t . th p t y w t d wood d , w ch to But he is a laz man who ra ersin a as li e t is y , t v g co t k h

and one s ul ne er be -li le an c as for ere is al a s ( ho d v tt y o t , th w y the e ernal arm and i c er the sea at its e e can t ch w t h y of dg ), not urn inlan a mi e or two l at an old ouse an t d l to ook h ,

- an i en urc or a uai n l si ua ed illa e . e ween c t ch h , q t y t t v g B t art le l and eaham all eas il a r a e rail or H poo S , y pp o ch d by roa ere are se eral la ell or isi in and all d, th v p ces w w th v t g, it in f w as ere w h a e miles of each other and of the co t . Th is as le E en wi its remains a ax on illa e its C t d , th of S v g , ’ eau i ul ene and its le en the e il and unner s b t f D , g d of D v G

l. ere is or en all a fine ex am le la er Poo Th H d H , p of t

omestic ar i e ure wi a n r ul imne - ie e and a d ch t ct , th wo de f ch y p c

ran old s air as e . T ere is Easin t on one se g d t c h g , of tho el ul villa es uil r un a u a r en i an old d ightf g b t o d bo t g e , w th church of which the famous Bernard Gilpin was once rector. And in ee a li le inlan rom e as ere are a rea d d , tt d f th co t , th g t man la es and s s i are r seein not r e in y p c pot wh ch wo th g, fo g tt g the i s ri ar en Law er n e the lesse h to c W d , wh eo th body of b d

t er i a . St . Cu hb t became mmov ble

Seah am is chiefly remarkable for the fact that it is a remar a l us manu a urin n and sea r an d a k b y b y f ct g tow po t , th t Lord Byron was marri ed to Anne Isabella Milban ke in the ’ dra in -r m her e in 1 1 The w g oo of father s house th re 8 5 . D RLAN SUN E D .

railway nms all along the coast from thi s point to Sunderland where one comes once more into a confusing admix ture of

an ien and m ern is r . In Bisho weannouth M n c t od h to y p , o k wearrn uth and un erlan i et een em ar s of o S d d, wh ch b w th (p t fi in ere re ned as les a er a n the two rs t be g h cko who , ft co veni ent fashion ) make up what is now commonly known as un erlan one ears the li an ies sai n s min lin S d d, h t of t g g with the crash of Royalist and Parli amentarian cannon an d wi th the perpetual shooting of coal into the ever-yawni ng

l s insa i le s i s . un erlan in s r is one of ho d of t ab h p S d d, ho t , — those man y products of this age a precocious and very modern child with an ancient and somewhat lichened e i ree ere are s s m n s on the an s the p d g . Th gho t of o k b k of ear at i s its u le the sea but t e are fr ne W th , o t t to , h y ow d upon by the great bridge which rises so high above the — — river that s een from the ri ver it seems to touch the he il an d us le m ern l u s . And et ere all t c o d y , wh to b t of od un erlan b rn in the ears its e le ere was n e S d d u s of p op , th o c the quietude of th e cloister ; and where there are now somewhat mean and undi stinguished streets (for it is not a eau i ul n the m nks of on earm u l e b t f tow ), o M kw o th ook d from across the river upon the peaceful meadows fri nged by the turbulent North Sea.

The story of the foundi ng of the monastery of Monk wearrnouth ene i Bisco is ull arm and by St . B d ct p f of ch e en r man e but muc len t and ull e ail v of o c , h too g hy f of d t b o All a one can to e written of wi thi n narr w limi ts . th t say here is that its church was one of the firs t of stone structures in the North ; that it was built by workmen Spe cially brought over from France ; that it was rich in stained glass and that its decorations an d ornaments were e i mus a e brought from as far afield as Rom tself . It t h v been a source of great wonder and delight to the folk of its firs a s n il en had n n li le e les i as i al t d y , who u t th k ow tt of cc t c ar i ec e i e ai ns ere s ill ex is the es r ch t tur . Of ts r m th t t w t po ch and es all and in the es r of the res re edifi ce a w t w , ( v t y to d ) ” 16 4 THE E NCHANTING NORTH . s tone which is held on good authori ty to be the actual m n en f f re an s the se en o um t o the ounder. These mn t of v th century are all that Monkwearmouth can show that is not lari n l Nor is t ere an in s ri in see i n g g y modern . h yth g t k g to un erlan nor man ass ia i ns c nne e i it ex e S d d, y oc t o o ct d w th c pt a i W ere are th t t figured somewhat in the Civil ar. Th certai n in teres ting features in the parish church of Bishop wearm outh but is is ri is now en irel i n er , th d t ct t y g ve ov to in us rialism and has e me ne t e m s im r an d t , b co o of h o t po t t ra in cen res in the in m t d g t k gdo .

The last s re e ur am c as -line ou an i n t tch of th D h o t , th gh fl k g a country in whi ch the coal-mine is still very much in e i en e is m a in res in an the firs v d c , so ewh t more te t g th t , ecause it m ifie ere is an b is ore broken up and divers d . Th absence of the denes whi ch are so conspicuous further s u but at m a the neares o th, Marsden Rocks one co es cross t a r a ere pp o ch to clifl scenery whi ch the coast can show. H is one r nearl a n r m the the ock, y hu dred yards f o foot of liffs a rma ion i n imi la ose at lam c , of fo t someth g s r to th F r u ead ar s i cien allo a a as sin bo o gh H , ched ufl tly to w of bo t p g t r u it at i ater and here are ee a erns in the h o gh h gh w , t d p c v cliffs a n n th e bove . Alo g thi s is the hi ghes t ground alo g ur am as —Cleado r m its ei s loo in D h co t n Hill. F o h ght , k g n r ar one sees the mou the ne the n r ern o thw d , th of Ty , o th un ar the oun l in as the ees es on the s u bo d y of c ty, y g, T do o th. un er a an re urlin sm e d c opy of g y, c g ok .

CHAPTER I .

R n The iver Eden a d its Tributaries .

HE Ri er E en hi ri ses on the il m un ai n us v d , w ch w d , o t o ei s a se ara e es m rlan r m r shire h ght th t p t W t o d f o Yo k , an d not er far r m the s ur es the i er Ut e ransec s v y f o o c of R v , t t some of the finest lands cape in the North of England as it in s n r a d i ri Not nl is w d o thw r to ts outlet in Solway F th . o y its c urse i re e r u eau i ul untr ell- e o d ct d th o gh b t f co y, w wood d and as ral and er un ills leas in rm and p to , ov h g by h of p g fo consi era le ei but als as me the m s is ri c d b h ght , o p t so of o t h to of n r - c un r ns some e m s r man i o th o t y tow , of th o t o t c of an ien ers and as les and some the fines our c t tow c t , of t of c r m urc sea untr sea s . ll wi n the E en s e o y t By fo o g d f o o to , and by making a digression here and there along its pri ncipal tri u aries one ma ma e a uai n an e wi le i b t , y k cq t c th App by , w th enri it arli e wi e ol as les en ra n P th, w h C sl ; th th d c t of P d go and r u am and the m rn es w er and or B o gh , ode on of Lo th C by with pre historic remains such as Long Meg and her au ers and in the alle the ro lin i ri er D ght ; , v y of C g , w th v 168 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

na r Few En lis ri ers scenery of an unrivalled tu e. g h v of similar length have so much charming scenery in close an as is as r s r n es ses prox imity to their b ks th , Wo d wo th co f in a sonnet written soon after he made a proper acquaintance wi th the river

Eden ! till now thy beauty h ad I vi ewed B li m ses onl and co nf s s wi th shame y g p y, e ' That verse of mi ne what e er i ts var i n moo , y g d , Repeats b ut once t h e sound o f thy s weet name Yet fetched fro m Para ise t hat honour came d , Ri gh tfully borne for Nature gi ves t hee flowers That have no rival amon ri tis h ower's g B b , And th ol rocks ar wor h of h ir f m y b d e t y t e a e . Meas uri n th cours e fair Stream ! at len t h a g y . g I p y ’ To my life s neighbour dues of neighbourhood B ut have traced t hee on th wi ndi n wa I y g y. With leas ure so metimes b this th ou r st rained p y ght e . F or thi n s far 0 6 we t oil while man oo g . y a g d

No t sou ht ecause t oo near is never ained . g . b , g

The romance and mystery which is attached to much of the country and to many of the places on both banks of the Eden begins soon after the ri ver flows from its s ur es eas il oar ell en ra n as le a roman i o c t of W db F . P d go C t , t c ruin risin on a n ll a e the ri er is sai a e een g k o bov v , d to h v b uil er en ra n a n rar in r ur b t by Uth P d go , co tempo y of K g A th , and the glamour of the Arthuri an legends still seems to hang a hi was n h bout it . T s o e of the many cas tles whi ch t e am us nne liff rd un ess em e rse and f o A C o , Co t of P brok , Do t n mer who o ne li f r es ta es e ween Mo tgo y, w d the C f o d t b t arli sle and i n and was i herifl es m rlan C Sk pto , H gh S of W t o d

in eri an e ut in r r re ai r uri n her r ri e rshi . by h t c , p p ope p d g p op to p Its gateway at one time bore the ins cription which the Countess invari ably caused to be placed on all the buildi ngs i c sh r li e wh h e estored . S ghter and of less interest are th remains Larnmerside as le in i s i our but of C t th ne ghb hood, ar n all near ir e en is e l in eres in Wh to H , K kby St ph , de p y t t g as having at one time been the residence of the family of art n m the mos am m r w hili Wh o , of who t f ous embe as P p, Du e ar n th e r a es fli and r a s the k of Wh to , g e t t p ro gate pe h p

1 0 HE E 7 T NCHANTING NORTH . a the a low ill r ne one the l es t foot of h , c ow d by of o d t nd m r man i as l s the r i t is us th a ost o t c c t e of No th, j t e place to ca th e e e the artis and the e and it is tch y of t po t , some i n a n er nsi eri n its si uati n its nearness th g of wo d , co d g t o , to so many places of interest and to so much beautiful scener a i t has not ec me a resor for uri s s in a y , th t b o t to t

rea er e ree han it has . Its one rea s la e is g t d g t g t how p c , of course the as le hi was r a l uil illiam , c t , w ch p ob b y b t by W ’ o li M th e n uer r s eu enan an ol de eschi nes . Its C q o t t, R d ph his r is chie un u i a of the Cliflords and to y fly bo d p w th th t , no a l wi Anne Cliflord oun ess em r e who t b y th , C t of P b ok ,

resi e in it a o eal and arris ne it for arles . d d g od d , g o d Ch I m lis alm s e at great cost . It was de o hed o t to th ground in 16 8 but the intre i alis la r m l rebuflt it 4 , p d Roy t dy p o pt y , saying that so long as a shilli ng remai ned to her she would n in e t u a r m ll hre n he is co t u to se p wh t C o we t w dow . T re a fine portrai t of the Countess in the modern part of the

an - m h r mem r in th ur as le an d al ar e e . c t , t to b to o y ch ch

cross un r r m le in the di re i n lls a er A co t y f o App by, ct o of U w t , s an s ow er as le the ri n i al sea the Earls t d L th C t , p c p t of of ons ale and one th m s n a le un r uses in L d , of e o t ot b co t y ho En lan i ua ed on the ri an the w er a g d. S t t ght b k of Lo th , ri er i ins th e Eam n a few miles a a near the v wh ch jo o t w y, un i on the la er wi the E en it c u ies a ma ni j ct of tt th d , o c p g

ficent si i n an d r m its am us rra e - alk al a s po t o , f o f o te c w , w y ea erl en uire for uris s ere is one the fines g y q d by to t , th of t i E i is e v ews in Europe . veryth ng here on the grandes t scal a use hi ma allen e c m ari s n i ala es ho w ch y ch g o p o w th p c , s len i r un s a rea ar ri er la e and p d d g o d , g t p k, wood, v , k m un in Th h al e ul o ta . e art treasures of t e house on wo d u a is erni ri i s m n i ra le ime and it occ py d c ng c t c o e co s de b t , is a sad pity that the collection was some years ago largely

re uce a is as r us fire . ere is the fines d d by d t o H , too , t collecti on of statuary and antiquities whi ch any pri vate

wner in the untr ssesses . e e isi in w er in o co y po D fo , v t g Lo th the earl art th i een cen ur had re or s y p of e e ght th t y , to c d E BROUGHAM CASTL . 17 1

e l ss fine i ur s and u recent fire and th o of P ct e F rniture . H was i e s ru ile ere the s a les hi he e ch fly t ck wh h by t b , w ch, sa s ere the n er En lan ein es eeme the y , w Wo d of g d, b g t d largest and finest that any Nobleman or Gentleman in ” H ul be a l Bri tai n is Master of . e wo d b e to write j ust as eloquen tly upon this point if he were able to visit Lowth er at the resen ime en e er t in is on the s ame s ale p t t , wh v y h g c as in the days when Wordsworth apostrophized it

Lowth er ! in thy maj es tic pile are seen Cath e ral om and race i n a t accord d p p g , p ’ " Wi s s rn r mi n th th e baronial ca tle ste e e .

r u am as le on the Eam n a li le wa out At B o gh C t , o t, tt y enri one is nce m re in u i the rea li f r of P th, o o to ch w th g t C f o d family and its indefatigable and irrep ressi ble seventeenth

cen ur re res en a i e the o un ess em r e . The t y p t t v , C t of P b ok remai ns here are more considerable than is generally the ase and rm a rare ex am le the s r n t the rea er c , fo p of t e g h of g t r ri uil n a e an bo der strongholds . O gi nally b t soo fter th Norm on ues u de Albinois the as le was nsi era l C q t by H gh , c t co d b y enlar e and s ren ene the Cliflords and a er g d t gth d by , ft the Civil War thoroughly repai red by the Countess of em r e s en th la er ar her en ul P b ok , who p t most of e tt p t of ev tf li e ere and rai se in its i ini a i elis n n f h , d v c ty h gh ob k k ow ’ as the un ess s illar in mem r her m er m Co t P , o y of oth , who she saw for th la t n i i e time o the spot thus d st nguished . There are several interes ting scenes and places in close r u C se th e is the si e prox imity to B o gham. lo to e cas tl t of the Roman station of Bravoni acum a little di stance away is r u am all nce the me the am us r B o gh H , o ho of f o Lo d

an r a E in ur evie -er m s me mem rials Ch cello nd d b gh R w , of who o o are here retained ; beyond its grounds are two anci ent ’ ir les one n n as in rt ur s un a le the er c c , k ow K g A h Ro d T b , oth Ma as b orou h nsi era le size . es ard y g , both of co d b W tw of t ese on the ur er an the Eam n is an at all h , f th b k of o t , Y w h H , er a e es x am le of l le in ese ar s p h ps th b t e p a pee cas t th p t . 1 2 THE E A 7 NCH NTING NORTH .

enrit the Patriana the mans ains a ic ures ue P h, of Ro , g p t q

a ranc r m its l ur. is a n red san s ne ppea e f o co o It tow of d to , a e a reen ill and mina e the ruins sli b ck d by g h , do t d by , ght

but im res si e i ts as le erein i ar . li e for p v , of c t , wh R ch d III v d s m ime revi us hi s ac essi n in a trul eu al s le o e t p o to c o , y f d ty , i s ensin rea s i ali and e min i l ular d p g g t ho p t ty, b co g h gh y pop , just as he did under precisely similar circumstances at

i leh am as le in ensle ale . enri astle ame in M dd C t , W yd P th C c to — ex istence through somewhat unusual causes unusual even li e uri n e under the savage fe of the early Middl Ages . D g th re n E ar a as c s ure in ig of dw d III . v t army of S ot po d to Cumberland and lai d waste most of the country round enri and not c n en i i s nor i urnin the P th , o t t w th th , w th b g

o n i l arrie off all a le- ie e le in t w tse f, c d the b bod d p op to

c tlan and t ere l em as sla es . n is S o d, h so d th v Upo th ,

E ar . ran e ea e r if the n and the dw d III g t d l v to fo t y tow , cas le as r a l uil a is eri d and was subse t w p ob b y b t t th p o , u l nla e i ar ere is li le see in q ent y e rg d by R ch d III . Th tt to the urc enri ex ce an ins ri i n i re r s ch h of P th, pt c pt o wh ch co d a isi a i n the la ue in 1 8 erein er v t t o of p g 5 9 , wh ov of the wns l eris e but the ur ar are ver to fo k p h d, in ch chy d two y remar a le r sses nearl wel e ee in ei i k b c o , y t v f t h ght , w th a aren l uni arac ers ic are sai mar the pp t y R c ch t , wh h d to k grave of a local gi ant who cleared the surrounding country il of w d animals .

Near the junction of the Eamont with the Eden stands E en all the sea th ancien amil Mus ra e and d H , t of e t f y of g v , one of the most delightfully situated country houses in the rt el meri in c rnium and r the No h , w l t g the en o of S fo d , topo ra er ri in it in the ei teen en ur alle g ph , who, w t g of gh th c t y , c d ”

it a air fine and e ala e . re is a i e f , b autiful p c He w d s readin ar eli ul ar ens and an ex ellen ollec i n p g p k, d ghtf g d , c t c t o i tures am n s hi se eral amil rtrai s of p c , o g t w ch are v f y po t by su mas ers as Sir e er l Sir s ua e n l s and ch t P t Le y, Jo h R y o d , fre n r hi n ere Sir God y K eller. But the most inte esting t g h is the rl - am us drin in - lass i is n n as the wo d f o k g g , wh ch k ow

1 HE E 74 T NCHANTING NORTH .

is rue a the il u e art n use It t th t w d D k of Wh o d , when arme er muc ine amuse hi m in w d by ov h w , to self by toss g the u in the ai r and a in it in its es cen but L ck to c tch g d t , it sur i e is ru e rea men and i s s ill in a in its v v d th d t t t, t t ct an i en as e i i sel is at l as fiv r c t c k t, wh ch t f e t e hundred yea s

old.

r -eas Eden all on the eas an of the E en No th t of H , t b k d , is a stretch of delightful country full of in teresting places a l r n vi ll and remark b e scene y . Jus t beyo d the age of Lang wathby is the famous stone circle known as Long Meg an d ’ her Daughters (the subj ect Of one of Wordsworth s many a i al sonne s i ears m aris n in s me topogr ph c t ) , wh ch b co p o o i m re am us n ere are s x t degree w th the o f o Sto ehenge . H i y as mas ses s ne all un e n i a u ni ne v t of to , h w , of wh ch bo t

ar s ill in an erec si i on . The rinci al s ne thirty e t t po t p p to , Me hi resen s a a e all ur oin s the Long g, w ch p t f c to fo p t of ass is wel e ee in ei and urteen ee in ir comp , t v f t h ght fo f t g th, is as r s rt ser es an d , Wo d wo h ob v ,

ro- emi nent and lace p , p d " A art o ov rlook th cir l vas t p t e e c e .

There is a local tradition to the effect that these stones e i es ere e rifie hrou the ra ers s me ar w tch , who w p t d t gh p y of o or ermi and t a no uman e in can e er c m u e saint h t, h t h b g v o p t n r ar s an all a their umbers correctly . No thw d of them t ds th t mains the nce rmi a le castle of ir s al a re of o fo d b K ko w d , l the a res s ill urt er n r at the un i on strongho d of D c t f h o th, j ct the E en and the r lin are the sli er ruins a of d C og , ght of

enedi ine nuns un e illi am . ere house of B ct , fo d d by W II H no one who loves wild scenery should omit to turn aside for the purpose of viewing the magnificent rocks through

’ ro li n th e stat el Eden s tri uta r C g , y b y,

a m m ar an d sweeps on its w y to join the ain strea . D k m s eri us as his r e is it ns i u es one the fines y t o t go g , co t t t of t es er ner t e stretch of riv sce y in h North .

1 6 7 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

There is much that i s interesting to see around Wetheral an o r The e ral n ains d C by . church of W the co t the celebrated

‘ monument to a lady of the Howard family which inspired r s or a s nne and s me m numents th Wo d w th to o t , o o of e once am us amil al el one m Sir i ar a f o f y of S k d, of who , R ch d , C ptain and ee er arli sle is ere mmem ra e in a r me K p of C , h co o t d , hy d ere ar now er f w remai ns epitaph . Th e v y e of the Old enedi ctine Pri r t is la e but on th e an s B o y of h p c , b k of the E en cut in the re i i us r n n the n d , to p c p to ock k ow by ame of

e eral a e uar are ree unni n l - e ise hi in la W th S f g d , th c g y d v d d g p ces wherein the monks probably hid themselves and their valuables when attacked by foraging parties from across the

r er. r astle the old use the Salkelds Bo d Co by C , ho of ,

overhangs the Eden in the midst of fine woods . Hereabouts the ri ver scenery is particularly beauti ful it becomes tamer as one ra s nearer the am us r er i ar i d w to f o Bo d c ty of C l sle .

is im ssi le i t in ircums ri e limi s sa m re It po b , w h c c b d t , to y o of Carlisle than what most people are already aware of that it is one of the most historic and most deeply interest in En an Its is r es ac ing towns gl d . h to y go b k into the was er ainl o cu ie the mans i mi sts . It c t y c p d by Ro ; t was

in it that King Arthur held hi s court . It has seen more r r How Border wa fa e than any town in the North . man y am us ers na es a e asse r u it remaine a i e f o p o g h v p d th o gh , d c pt v or elea uere in it suflered ea in it it ul be a b g d , d th , wo d ar as sa i s i a es ere e ere i sman l h d t k to y. If t c ty g t th y w d t ed could have spoken they could have given a long li st of the ea s a h a n n m For entur a er h d th t d bee ex posed upo the . c y ft century the folk of Merry Carlisle seem to have had li tle r a n for lau er for eir s reets ere al a t e so ght , th t w w ys res undi n th d an arms and eir u ters not o g to e g of , th g t l m runnin l Ye e al a s ha had se do g b ood . t th y seem w y to ve — a cheerful spirit probably from long acquain tance with — adversity for one hears of them laughing at each other urin the si e e in 16 - en a er li v n on s and d g g 44 45 , wh , ft i g dog ra s and ein es i u e rea and sal eir l es t , b g d t t t of b d t , th c oth

CHAPTER II

The Ri e Irthin v r g.

FEW miles eas tward of Carli sle the Eden is joined by the Irthi n a ri er of s me lume and len i g, v o vo gth , wh ch ri ses on the high ground above Sp adeadam Waste on the r hum ri an r er and asses rou s me ex ceedin l No t b bo d , p th gh o g y in eres in c un i r i l Th n t t g o try on ts way towards Ca l s e . e sce es an d places by whi ch the Irthing runs may be very easily reached from Carlisle by means of the railway line whi ch runs from h ci l n i t at ty to Hex ham and Newcas tle . A o gs de th e ri er is line runs for s me is ance an d r m i ts v th o d t , f o various stations all the interesting places of the neighbour oo ma i i n ma r ifficul ei her be s ed . is ot a e h d y v t It tt of d ty t , hen river an d rail a finall se ara e ma e use the w w y y p t , to k of ’ la er for visi in su la es as um s Ha Bi rdoswald tt t g ch p c M p , and ewcas le the las - name i si ua e in a er B t , t d of wh ch , t t v y lonel an i i an t n mil s r m a s a i n s oul y d w ld d strict d e e f o t t o , h d cert ainl isi In a i i n all ese la es y be v ted . dd t o to th p c of in eres an d su ell- n n s o - la es as N aworth t t, to ch w k ow h w p c as le and Lanercost ri r the Irthin h as len fine C t P o y , g p ty of ri er an n r u u the ole its urse v d pastoral sce ery th o gho t wh of co , and from most of the villages on its banks in its western s re c es it is t o isi the oman all w i is seen t t h easy v t R W , h ch s h n ur il lan at it best in t e eighbo hood of G s d . N I AWORTH CASTLE. 79

. Near the junction of the Irthi ng wi th the Eden there is a li le illa e name ar i on the r a r m arli sle tt v g d W w ck, o d f o C ram ton i sse a rman ur rea to B p , wh ch po sses No ch ch of g t in eres is er small but er remar a le e ause t t . It v y , v y k b b c of its a se hi has t i r een narr ni es rea hin r m p , w ch h t ow ch c g f o t h l Eac ese r inall con top o bottom of t e wal s . h of th o ig y tained a small in near the but all but hree a e w dow top, t h v now n fill Th r a has a fine rm an bee ed up . e west doo w y No

- ar . r eas ar ic t een the ri er and the ch No th t of W w k, be w v rail a is r m n l in in the ear a small and w y, B a pto , y g h t of i tures ue rlo in the n is an emi nen e p c q valley . Ove ok g tow c alle the e ill i a ears be ar ifi i al c d Mot H , wh ch pp to of t c

rma i on an d was r a l e ase a ax n s ka e . fo t , p ob b y th b of S o toc d ere was a man s a i n re the si e i was Th Ro t t o he , t of wh ch l se the res en ur and on the an s the c o to p t ch ch, b k of nei uri n s ream Hellbeck t ere is an ins ri i n ar e ghbo g t , , h c pt o c v d on a r c but now ar i er hi s s a the o k , h d to dec ph , w ch how th t zud Legi on quarri ed for stone in the vi cinity during the ir en ur th d c t y .

The principal obj ects of interes t along the Irthi ng stand — in close prox imity N aworth Castle and Lanercost Priory

one on the s u th er on the n r the ri er. o th , e oth o th of v Naworth th an i r er r n l the rea me i e val , e c ent Bo d st o gho d of g t d amil a w buil em in the ur een f y of D cre , as t by th fo t th cen ur and w s ciall esi ne for resis in the t y , as pe y d g d t g too re uen i n ur ns e s re te u on an eminen e f q t c sio of th Scot . E c d p c , s r n l a tl en ed and surr un e a uble m a t o g y b t em t , o d d by do o t it r e no n an im re na le r ress but a er p ov d t o ly p g b fo t , v y menacing centre of activity against the marauders and moss troopers who used to keep the countryside in a perp etual s a e ar I m s in eres in a s ull t t of fe and anx i ety . ts o t t t g d y , f of i ures u n and s irrin li e ere uri n its ccu an p ct q e es s t g f , w d g o p cy r illi ar the Bel e ill Sir al er by Lo d W am How d, t d W of W t ’ c s La o the Last Mi nstrel as r ar en S ott y f , who , Lo d W d of the arc es rule the un r un r his are wi a firm M h , d co t y de c th nd esolu e and r m 160 16 H in s i on a r t h f o 5 to 40 . e came to posse s 180 THE E NCHANTING NORTH .

the astle his marria e it t e ad Eliza e of c by g w h h L y b th , one of the two co-hei resses of the Baronies of Gilsland and Gre stock and a e lar l a h d n y , dd d ge y to wh t a bee built by ’ his i e s an es rs . In the rea all the as l r w f c to g t h of c t e , ove the r are r rai s el e ill and his la ere doo , po t t of B t d W dy ; h , are man amil i ures and s me rtrai s reat too, y f y p ct o po t of g fi ures the se en een centur in ludin ne arl s g of v t th y , c g o of Ch e I . an Th f by V dyck . e rooms specially reserved or his own use by Lord William Howard have been kept in thei r original c n i i n and ere are man relies hi m in em He o d t o , th y of th . was one of the greatest students of his time and a great re a er and am en vi si e him at Naworth un d , C d , who t d , fo d him well versed in the matters whi ch he himself was most in eres e in r m r illiam war imsel the son t t d . F o Lo d W Ho d, h f the ur u e r lk s ran a ran the of fo th D k of No fo , p g th t b ch of amil n w r s n th Earls arlisl th l f y o rep e e ted by e of C e , e e ar dom ei ran e his ran son arles s n a er the b ng g t d to g d , Ch , oo ft

Lanercost ri r the inci al m nas i ruin in um er P o y, pr p o t c C b

lan an s ia a - all er leasin and d, st d well wooded v ey of v y p g i ures ue hara er e een the Irthi n and the man p ct q c ct , b tw g Ro all the s ne i wa lai un er ea n ri u i n W , to of wh ch s d d h vy co t b t o i i as a use when church and clo sters were bu lt. Founded ho f u us inian an ns r Vallibu in 1 16 o A g t C o by Robe t de s 9 , Lanercost s n e ame a ri r im r ance and u n oo b c p o y of po t , po

c ur his firs ife u n Elean r a c m an in him in o t, t w , Q ee o , c o p y g

1280 and his se n i e ueen Mar are in 1 06. i e , co d w f , Q g t, 3 L k s me t er m nas i us Lan rcost at an earl st a e o o h o t c ho es , e , y g , aine a in n i f l x i and as the resul g d certa otor ety or a ty, t of a isi i u ur eent cen ur the v tat on abo t the middle of the fo t h t y , Prior was warned to abstai n from hunting in public and cut n his a s nsiderin a t ei rs to dow p ck of hound . Co g th t h was a use n e and a e were resuma l ho of ot , th t th y p b y ssesse me means the m n s Lanercost ame po d of so , o k of c 06 er an s nl illa e v y well at the h ds of the Scot , who o y p g d

182 THE EN CHANTING NORTH .

It is a wild and semi -mountainous country which lies e ween ilslan and e cas tle but is art r um b t G d B w , th p of No th berlan d should certainly not be neglected by the an tiquarian nor by those who love old places without knowing much a u ar m the si ua i n e cas l l em. r e i s e bo t th Ap t f o t t o of B w t t f, — it poss esses two matters of great interest the remains of a castle which is believed to have been originally built for the accommodation of the company of the 2nd Legion urin the ime e uildi the man all and d g t of th b ng of Ro W , , in the ur ar an an ien r ss i the mos com ch chy d , c t c o wh ch t e en aut ri i s a e r n unce a ter areful and r u p t t ho t e h v p o o d , f c tho o gh

All ar un is n a e are an ient ri i s illa es o d th lo ely pl c , too , c B t h v g , sec r s the ills e e n our u ely perched on the top of h , wh r o an cestors loved to fix their habitations rather than ex pose hems ers the alle s el infes e t elves to the dang of v y b ow , t d in their days with savage animals which we have never z l i al s i i N0 seen ex cept in the collections of oo og c oc et es . one who cares for evidences of a long-dead age will regret r in ese rs in i no rail a runs and c oss g th moo , to wh ch w y ic a through wh h few roads p ss . HA E R C PT III . Th f e Charm O the English Lakes .

T seems something uncommonly like a work of supereroga tion to wri te anythi ng about that part of Westmorland and Cumberland whi ch is now famous all the world over under its comparati vely modern name of the English Lake

is ri c . has een ri en a u so muc and in such D t t It b w tt bo t h, — different fashions from the solemn an d stately prose of Wordsworth to the not so stately rhyrni ngs of the late

oe l ere is s ar el a o la r- da ui e P t C ose . Th c c y series f tte y g d boo ks in mos t European languages whi ch does not include some es ri i n its eau i es ass i a ions hi s r in d c pt o of b t , oc t , to y ; our own lan ua e it h as a li era ure its own i ma es g g t t of , wh ch k i ra in i l here ar e e —and ver a form dable lib ry tse f . T e p opl y — sensible and wis e they are who think it the height of folly and almost of impiety to carry into the Lake District an t hi n e n a relia le ma and a li tle o are y g b yo d b p , t b ok of b , bal a is i The reas n— a o one —for his O ini n is d st t t cs . o go d t p o a n e ou are i in the arme i r le his is ri t th t o c y w th ch d c c of t d t c , ou ec me a ar it You us i ve it it is an y b o p t of . m t l ; atmosphere into which you must be absorbed ; you must

brea e it eel it ra er an rea ab u it . In su a th , f , th th d o t ch 18 E 4 TH ENCHANTING NORTH .

ai r - li e an as is ere e r m un ai n is a la er f y k l d th , wh ve y o t dd to ea en e er la e a mi rr r o f e erni mere r s are as H v , v y k o t ty, wo d n in en m ared i the su le r less i eless oth g wh co p w th bt , wo d , vo c as i n in i a ure ere ea r m s su es s f h o wh ch N t h t ches , p o pt , gg t , ermea es me su u as t is is surel a in p t . So ch tho ght h y k to that which Wordsworth voiced one spri ng morning in the very heart of thi s earthly paradi se One i mpuls e fro m a vernal wood Ma each o u mo o f Man y t y re , Of moral evil and o f oo g d , Than h sa all t e ges can . Yet to write of the enchantment of the Nort h of England and to leave out all mention of the Lake Distri ct were to An speak of Italy and t o omi t all reference to Rome . d et a ai n—no one not e en r s rt imself—h as e er y g , v Wo d wo h h v wri tten of this part icular (an d j udged by mere meas urement very small an d insignificant) corner of Englan d in adequate — fashion and that for the simple reason that no one has yet been able to put on paper the subtle charm whi ch seizes on the human being who strays ami ds t the mountains an h la n r s rt mes d by t e kes an d the sile t burns . Wo d wo h co nearest to putting that charm into words in lines that suddenly flash upon one out of their contex t with a lightni ng li e sense of illumina i n—s u li nes for ex am le as k t o ch , p ,

On morn n h u w k e i g t s by Est h ait e La e . When Li e was sweet I n wh f , knew ot y,

i a e er the scofler ma sa ri n s u i a wh ch , wh t v y y, b g p w th ’ oe s unerri n s ill the sense la i a ers reen ill p t g k of p c d w t , g h si es lue s i es i fl c i u railin a r ss d , b k w th ee y wh te clo ds t g c o ' ' em i e s la m rnin out s u lin an d th , of L f g d o g, of Y h b bb g efl erves cent o e or a ai n in su sim le et su re H p g , ch p , y ch p g nan t li nes as : It is the rs t mild da of March fi y . Each minut e sw ee t er t han be fore Th e Redbreas t si ngs fro m t he tall Larch That s tands es ide o ur door ‘ b , whi ch cryst allizes Springtide in Lakelan d into a subtlety of u l In a n t c arm feeling whi ch m s t be fe t . th t feeli g he h of

’ i . s Tbese li nes were wri tten s t Co leortou, but b reathe Words worth s true Lake land sp ri t

186 THE E N NCHA TING NORTH .

i s r Th wa s me i r ll u h to y . e tides of r o t mes o ed p to its very — a es and r lled awa a ai n . Its e le enera i n g t o y g p op , g t o a er enera ion en ur a er en ur li e ui e an ft g t , c t y ft c t y, v d q t d a e ul as ral li es scar el e er urne in e n pe c f p to v , c y v jo y g b yo d eir na ural ram art s s arcel e er seein a s ran er th t p , c y v g t g wit in m r a l the firs ers n an im an h the . P ob b y t p o of y port ce o isi the a e is ri was mas ra the au r t v t L k D t ct Tho G y , tho of the ele ra e Ele who assed r u mu it in 1 6 c b t d gy, p th o gh ch of 7 9 , and rai se its eau ies in a le er hi s ri n Dr ar on p d b t tt to f e d , . Wh t . At that time Ambleside must have been a very primitive

lace for the e s ea s the es bed- am er ein p , po t p k of b t ch b b g ” as dar as a ellar and so am h a he urne e k c , d p t t jo y d or ar en al ere ell ru the a mm ati n f w d to K d , wh , to t t th, cco od o ’ mu n ears a er ra 3 isi n was not e er. i e o e ch b tt N y ft G y v t , es u lis e a ak i s s a W t p b h d Gui de to the L es, wh ch how th t for su a r Bu i was no th ere was some demand ch wo k. t t t ’ until the app earance of Wordsworth s modest book on th e same subj ect that people began to visit the finest scenery in En lan n an n r g d i y umbe .

Wordsworth is of the true atmosphere of the Lake i s ri is im s i — m ssi l a is for an l er . s le i e D t ct It po b po b , th t , y ov o f hi s e r — ra erse h ese alle s ream esi e es e po t y to t v t v y , d b d th stret c es of s ini n a er or lim the ills and m un ai ns h h g w t , c b h o t w i c s an in Si en war and a er em i u h h t d l t d w tch ov th , w tho t eeli n hi s in uen e r En l is ass ia e f g fl c . No othe g ish poet so oc t d with a particular di s trict of England as Wordsworth is with is i x n i n in uc wi el th . W th the e ceptio of brief res de ces s h d y ifferin la es as am ri e nd n and le r n and d g p c C b dg , Lo o Co o to , of his nti n al c is urne s his li e was li e Co ent and S ott h jo y , f v d amon s the la es and ills and r m 181 the ime g t k h , f o 3 to t of

his ea in 1 0 he rarel n s ut ar . a urall d th 85 y we t o hw d N t y , ere re the is ri c i a er all li es in er cir um th fo , d t t (wh ch , ft , v y c c es The s ribed compass ) is full of Wordsworth shrin . enthusias t may begin a pilgrimage of devotion to those shri nes in the cobble- stone paved Mai n Street of Cocker m u h ere s ill s an s t u i n i the oe was o t , wh t t d he ho se wh ch p t

188 THE E NCHANTING NORTH.

the ami l ere en mar vell us al s of f y ; th , too , to joy o t k , to re el in the ran scener the ure ai r v g d y , p , came Sir Walter Sir um re a r ess r n i Scott, H ph y D vy, P of o Wilso Chr stopher r arles am arles l an l No th Ch L b , Ch L oyd , d ater Thomas rnol urin his eadmas ershi at u set u a A d, who , d g h t p R gby , p resi en e a al But e n es d c t Ryd . b yo d th e there are many names the re a ass ia e i of g t oc t d w th the Lake District . Frightened of the threateni ng as pect of Borrowdale and alne ar u he was ra was mu in l i W Sc tho gh , G y ch ove w th the scenery of the neighbourhood so was Samuel Rogers

so was n ea s . elle and his firs i e arriet Joh K t Sh y t w f , H , li ved in a co ttage near Keswi ck for some . little time ; Tennyson made more than one visit to the neighbourhood ’ Mrs m n n eral ars a s . e a s s e se e t e es erl o in H p t v y Dov N t, ov o k g Windermere Harri et Martineau was a resident of Ambleside r r The firs mee in et een arl t fo thirty yea s . t t g b w Ch ot e Mrs as e a er ar s her i r n e and . ll ra er B o t G k , ft w d b og ph , took la e in the di s ri ere t oo on ari us mem ra le p c t ct ; th , , v o o b as i ns ere oun arl le Emers n annin and the occ o w f d C y , o , C g,

rea oli ionis s lar s n and il er r e . Nor will two g t Ab t t , C k o W b fo c those who cheri sh the memory of the best in Victorian ’ literature forget that the splendid sunset of John Rus kin s rea li e was s en on the s res nis n a er or g t f p t ho of Co to W t , sl ni n ur ar th at he eeps in Co sto Ch chy d.

n la in r in En is ri There is o ck of te est the glish Lake D t ct . ain aul s is misera l i er ain rue it has er . e T , c t f t It b y d vo d of c t things whi ch your true lounger about lands capes looks for i l i has no ol especi ally if he be a b t of an arche o og st . It d

as les no ruin us ri ries no an ien ur es . ere are c t , o p o , c t ch ch Th l n cas les in m re or less ila i a e ondi i n us p e ty of t , o d p d t d c t o , j t

utsi its un aries but n ne i hin . urnes s e o de bo d , o w t F Abb y, fin e u it is is not i hin the i s ri u it is tho gh , w t d t ct , tho gh easil a essi le nor can al er e be sai el n y cc b , C d Abb y d to b o g o it —the la s are e en en u n emsel es for t . No ke d p d t po th v m S ri n m in in ermer r en a er ar . rn e or e ch A p g o g by W d , D w tw t , or Ullswater brings its own glory with it not less full of CLIMATE . 189 satis faction to eye and mind is an autumn afternoon by h ese same wa ers n the l r russe and ll i t t , whe g o y of t ye ow s

re e ed in eir lear e hs . As for the m un ai n fl ct th c d pt o t s , they are alwa s ins in i the i er the com e li n ness y t ct w th w tch y, p l g , the a eal the awe - i i n whi is the e ernal rer a i pp , g v g ch t p og t ve ’

the rl s h ers silence . re er in S i of wo d igh tow of Mo ov , p te of the fact that vas t numbers of people now visit the Lake is ri min ere not merel r m the a inin c un i D t ct , co g th y f o djo g o t es and rom En lan enerall but r m all ar s rl f g d g y , f o p t of the wo d, it has not et and ra ne er ill e me ea y ( , p y God, v w b co ch p — — or suggestive of what is known s omewhat fatuously as a li a res r The air i ni h as een ell main aine ho d y o t . of d g ty b w t d . It is on record th at a gentleman day- tri pper from Manchester once stated that he was much surpri sed and hurt to find that there was neither a swi ng-boat nor a Shooting gallery a u in ermere and h a elle Vue in his na i e i bo t W d , t t B , t v c ty, — was in hi s opinion a place much better worth visiting but

one ma ex use a . er all it was not su an nu y c th t Aft , ch fortunate remark as that made by the apparently superior ers n an in mee rds r i th e mere p o who , ch c g to t Wo wo th, w th knowledge of him that he h ad published his Gui de to the a es as e him—let us rus i a armin nai v te L k , k d t t w th ch g e if he had written anything else

Folk who journ ey to the Lake Distri ct and intend to wander about it for some time should bear in mind that a a these hills and valleys h ve distinct climate of their own. e is li le ar e ol i al in eres ere is a un an e If th re tt of ch og c t t , th b d c u a i n for the e l is and the anis and far of occ p t o g o og t bot t , m f h li erar man and the art is but it i s all out ore or t e t y t , of- r r and ere ou mus ma e urs el a reea le doo wo k, th y t k yo f g b the ea er for it ill m s er ainl not ma e i sel to w th , w o t c t y k t f a a l o In a elan one e s the ures air gree b e to y u. L k d g t p t En an—and ssi l no and th e heaviest rai ns . No glishm po b y — European has much idea of what a real rai nfall is until he has s en a few rain a s in sa the immedia e nei p t y d y , y, t gh bourhood r u n urs are of the Lodo e Hotel. But s ch dow po 1 90 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

And it is r worth travelli ng a thousand miles to see . wo th travelli ng all the way fro m Melbourne or San Francis co or Mandalay to see a spri ngtide morning shower on the shores in ermer or a n ai e i the su en urs of W d e B sse thw t , w th dd b t of s ri n i e sunli oll i u n it the a m animen p gt d ght f ow ng po , to cco p t of the music to which Wordst surely listened

I h eard a t housand woodland not es ,

As in a grove I lay reclin ed.

ea er or no ea er the a e is ri is the neares W th w th , L k D t ct t approach to the ideal Earthly Paradise which England

n ws . mus be s en i a e rea in ushe k o It t pok of w th b t d b th, h d syllables ; written of with a reticence which betrays the respectful but deep and unswervi ng love and enthusi as m And a n i e on of a devotee . wh t one says of the cou trys d e mus sa h l n r si m r t y of t e peop e of the cou t y de . No o e s i a le in l ran man l and manl men and ho p t b , k d y, f k, y wo y women are to be found in the three kingdoms than those on m i n i re are bi els whom e eets the Lake Distr ct . The g hot in it i c ri in a er m ern n eni n e , w th ele t c light g nd ev y od co v e c ere are also ear o d la es ere the armer or lan l r th d l p c wh f , d o d , with his servants and guests makes common cause at one a le and er in e er a ers roun the omm n t b , wh e v ybody g th d c o fire at ni ear ales an d le en s and old alla s and ght , to h t g d b d

eni -li e g al talk of sheep and dogs and such k pleasant thi ngs . It is no bad thing to stay in a firs t -clas s hotel ; it is a good deal better to sleep out amongst the heather and the li ng on a warm summ r ni eeli n the r e us ur le e ght , f g go g o p p of the sky wrap one over with soft touches as from a gold ’ hearted mother s fingers it is still better to see the peat flamss leap on some humble hearth to whose warmth the s ran er has een m e ri el me t g b ad ght w co . — The Lake Dis tri ct of England is unique unique in its

s ener i n el a m s ere its e le . r sw rt c y, ts ov t o ph , p op Wo d o h re re en i and a i e es his own rea nes s p s ts t in all its moods , ch v g t ere ose esire en er int its arms— its th by . So th who d to t o ch

1 2 T E E A 9 H NCH NTING NORTH .

has in e out unerrin l surel t se com ellin who po t d , g y, y, ho p g rces a ure hi ear ene im r woul fo of N t w ch, h k d to, p essed by, d trans form the conditions of Life to an Unknowableness which

That is why the Lake Distri ct of England is to the poet and the seeker after Moral and National Ri ghteousness what wn ar i ular l lies i his o p t c Ho y of Ho s to every devotee. IN N ORTHUMBERLAND .

C E R HAPT I . R The iver Tyne .

thos e people who have only seen the River Tyne m the three great bridges whi ch connect Gates head wi th

E er sin e the e of gloom and gri me . v c ag of steam and steel dawned upon us the Tyne and Newcastle as names have been synonymous with prodigious eflorts in the way of en r ri se uman erse eran e uman a ie n human te p , h p v c , h ch veme t . When one speaks of the Tyne one thinks ins tinctively of en as e r e e ens n su h such m G o g St ph o , of c workshops as ic su us recei in and is ri u in c al- en Elsw k , of ch b y v g d t b t g o c tres seems im ssi le n ei e the ne a as J arrow . It po b to co c v of Ty s an w ere a ri er eau a s ream i being y h v of b ty, t by wh ch to ' u in in a it is one the m wander. B t po t of f ct of ost attractive ers in En lan and ra erses s me ex eedi n l in eres in riv g d, t v o c g y t t g as an ne ma isc er for imsel ll s country, yo y d ov h f who fo ow it from its outlet into the North Sea to its sources on the

and r man i as ral and i ur s ue an ien wild o t c, p to p ct e q , past c t 1 THE E 96 NCHANTING NORTH .

of hi st ri ass ia i n . The ne is in rie n o c oc t o Ty , b f, o e of our reat ri ers i the i ni and im r an e the g v , w th d g ty. po t c of Thames, e n and the use and e er ex l res it i the S ver O , who v p o w ll know m re at firs an the is r and l en s o , t h d, of h to y eg d of the North e n Country t han h ever k ew before .

At the very mouth of the Tyne stan ds one of its greatest ri al m numen s the an ien ri r r histo c o t , c t P o y of St . Ma y and

. Osw n a ma nifi n ruin i erlo s th St y , g ce t wh ch ov ok e grey th r a an r waters of e No th Se , d fo ms the principal obj ect a ra i n in the m ern seasi e n nem u of tt ct o od d tow of Ty o th, now a favourite res ort of the teemi ng population of busy F the reli i us Newcastle. ew of g o houses of the North are so fin l lace as nem u ri r i s an in hi e y p d Ty o th P o y , wh ch, t d g gh and is la e u n he e e a l r m n r seems to o t d po t dg of bo d p o o to y , act as sentinel to the country which the Tyne itself opens a thi s r m n r was al a s re ar as up . Th t p o o to y w y g ded an important strategi c position may be gathered from the fact

and a castle was built upon its site soon after the Norman

n ues . is allin in the an s the s urin Co q t Th , f g to h d of Scot d g the i il War was em ar iall em lis e but the C v , by th p t y d o h d, position was considered to be so important that the Parli ament took the very unusual course of rebuildi ng and strengthening

it . n e re is s r n l had its firs e innin s Lo g b fo th t o gho d t b g g , in firs hris ian i n rt um ria uil a en Edw , t C t K g of No h b , b t wood n the site the ri r hi was su se uentl church o of p o y, w ch b q y a one his su ess rs s al i a ur repl ced by of cc o , O w d, w th ch ch

s n i in 6 r was r the . Osw n of to e, to wh ch 5 b ought body of St y ,

i eira er w se m the ri r ra uall ar se . K ng of D , ov ho to b p o y g d y o It was more than once burnt or pulled down by the marau i anes and i n the ele en en ur it was un d ng D , v th c t y fo d ’ ne sar rem e . Osw n s remains arr here ces y to ov St y to J ow, w e re e in sa e for nearl a ears b t th y we k pt f ty y hundred y , u after the Norman Conquest it enjoyed a peaceful and i n a w in i prosperous ex ste ce . The rem ins sho that ts best

1 JARROW . 97 days it must have been one of the fines t religious houses

s el er ose an i en ax n m naster J arrow, to the h t of wh c t S o o y Osw n ere r u is now one the the relics of St. y w b o ght , of busies t and blackest of the Tyneside towns wherein industry i s micals . e c al and e is always to the fore It d voted to o ch , and at first no one would think that it was anything but

m ern n in ee . is e er one the a very od tow d d It , how v , of i r e lesi as ci in En lan and most anc ent cent es of cc ti sm g d, famous all over Christendom as havi ng been the almost

- era le Rem e arro life long home of the Ven b Bede. ov d to J w in hi s u a i n at earm u he s en after complet g ed c t o Monkw o th, p t his li e in the n its l is ers and the remai nder of f seclusio of c o t , ere di in a er a areer as remar a le for its th ed 735 , ft c k b

a ien and strenu us la urs as for its ness and iet . , p t t o bo , good p y Here he wrote his famous Ecclesi asti cal Hi story and his Li ves of the Sai nts here he educated several men who afterwards attai ned hi gh position in the Church ; from hence his re u a i n as a r s read t r u p t t o schola p h o ghout Europe . ere in the ur i s ill s an ds a oar i ness H , ch ch wh ch t t , h y w t of the as amids the s uali s ree s m ern arr his p t , t q d t t of od J ow, la for t ree en uries en be rem e ur am body y h c t , th to ov d to D h ,

ere it firs res e in the m . er an wh t t d to b of St Cuthb t , d was subsequently interred in a gold and silver shrine in the Galilee .

It must have been a very diflerent Tyne upon whi ch the monks of J arrow were wont to look to that whi ch one sees n a a s e een a o an d ow d y b tw J rr w Newcas tle . Shi pping of all s r s and sizes s eam sm e the a urs o t , t , ok , v po of chemical r s the ree lass urnaces the usan an n wo k , k of g f , tho d d o e odours whi ch come from manufactories an d workshops a perpetual canopy of dun - coloured atmosphere overhangi ng and mina in all the lan la er and an do t g c k, c tt cl g of steam ammers al-s s an ir n ea n on i n h , co hoot , d o b ti g ro ; the ai r — of ant -like activity on all han ds these are the things which

s ri e e e and ear on is s re h of the ri er. ni t k y th t tc v At ght , 1 8 T E E 9 H NCHANTING NORTH.

when furnaces and chimneys belch forth flame and smoke ma e luri flame the ima ina i e man mi ell an d d by , g t v ght w f cy himself to be in the midst of an lnferno as he sees the

black waters of the river reflecting the glare above .

Yet the ne herea u s is ull li e uman interes . Ty bo t f of v , h t M ern i e in us r a it i ere are few the od h v of d t y th t s , th of

e e t m i i in e as N wcastl . I is not erely that t s t resting as a en re in us tr nor e ause its rea si i n in the c t of d y , b c of g t po t o

is ri m numen s and a eneral o-ah ea ai r i h is h to c o t , g g d wh c

as n a i s as a rau z ne and as ex hilara in . co t g ou d ght of o o , t g on e er an ere a u e as tle ee in No e who has v w d d bo t N wc , k p g e an a on e a r can n er a e as le l yes d e rs th le t , wo d th t N wc t fo k are u eir n or a e emsel es a e a pro d of th tow , th t th y th v h v very good Opinion of their own importance in the scheme es like re ree and uildin s of Providence . Thoroughfar G y St t b g like the Central Ex change and the Museum are worthy of an i in the rl an e astle men are as mu y c ty wo d, d N wc ch us e m u hi n an ee But the i has h tl rs as the ost p s g Y k . c ty I d rman more to show than the merely modern. ts Ol No keep still stan ds sentinel over the Tyne its an ci ent pari sh i 188 a a the church of St . N cholas (since 2 the c thedr l of is s e as tle the la a e an d the old s ree s B hop of N wc ) B ck G t , t t in the nei ur the ri er ar all mem ri als the ghbo hood of v , e o of days when Newcas tle was to all intents an d purposes a border town and always mi x ed up in some form of brawling

i w in its ne r ar s e astle is Modern as t looks no we p t , N wc an i e adrian uil a ri e in reality a very c ent town . H re H b t b dg er the T ne earl in se n en ur ere r m the ov y y the co d c t y, wh f o

la e its man n e Pans zEli i . ere was a p c took Ro am , Th eli i u urin ax n imes and the r g o s house established here d g S o t , town was then an d for some time afterwards called Monks chss ter. The astle li e man an t er in the rt we c , k y o h No h, o d

200 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

ers i n 2n salm Wh os u ran as v o of the 5 d P , y d t tho , ty t, bo t sel i r s rai se ereu n the in thy f, Thy w cked wo k to p wh po K g rose a a t e 6th salm the same ersi n nd g ve ou th s P of v o , ave merc r on me I ra for men me H y, Lo d , , p y ; do ev ur hi the las in re i the e as le l d o , w ch, to t g c d t of N wc t fo k t a ime e san i r a er ur the discom of h t t , th y g w th g e t f vo , to fi an in the i are me an i en ture of the f atic pulp t . There so c t remains in me e r he n n a l so of th othe churches of t tow , ot b y ’ in . n re s in th e ur i are ra men s St A d w , ch chyard of wh ch f g t o of the walls which f rmerly closed Newcastle in .

The as le i sel now un er the are the l al an i g c t t f, d c of oc t uarian s ie is ie remar le for the ee a i al q oc ty, ch fly kab k p, typ c rman s ru ure rea stren the en ran e i No t ct of g t gth, t c to wh ch

- is on the thi rd storey a somewhat unusual feature . There are several apartments in the keep whi ch are still in a m er ex ellen r a i n . In the rea ll a a c t prese v t o G t H , ch b of nsi era le size ohn ali l in lan di d ma e co d b , J B o , K g of Scot d , ho g ’ m er was E ar . in e em er 12 2 the in s a to dw d I D c b , 9 K g Ch b l in en he was e ere as a the odg g of Charles I . wh k pt h i and a e muse in the la a e ere pr soner. Here t th um B ck G t th are numer us man remains un r m ime ime in o Ro , fo d f o t to t n an nei ur man m re an i the tow d ghbo hood. There are y o t quities in Newcas tle which an y lover of old thi ngs will find landmarks of the pas t were swept away in rebuilding the its centre of the city. Nor is Newcas tle enti rely without eau s s — esm n ene in s i e of the a a it b ty pot J o d D , p t f ct th t li es in e mi a i in ustri alism th dst of countrys de given up to d . is one the m s in i i n ree - la lens in erse e of o t v t g of t c d g , t ct d by

No one should forget (it would perhaps be impossible to do so considering that there is so much evidence hereabouts the vas ers s eam s an ir n t a the ne of t pow of t , teel d o ) h t Ty side country immediately beyond Newcastle ou the western side:is closely associ ated with the life an d labours of George e enson i a ma e St ph . Devout adm rers of that great man m y k 1 GEORGE STEPHENSON . 20

a very enjoyable pilgri mage around the places connected i m e urn i sel a la e mu is ri w th him fro N wb , t f p c of ch h to c in eres u it is now re mu in the same rela i n t t , tho gh p tty ch t o to Newcas tle which Leland said Hedon was to Hull in his

a in a it has e a e hile e astle has risen. On d y, th t d c y d w N wc the edge of the village of North Wylam stands the very

— - humble dwelling a plai n two stori ed cottage by the roadside — was in in which Stephenson born in 1781 . Immediately fr n the a e a en ramr a ran al n i o t of cott g wood t o d , o g wh ch

’ of the future engi neer s firs t cares to see that his younger fl W t l r and sis ers ere e o it . a bo t e a b others t w k pt At l , illa e on the r a e een e as le and e n he had v g o d b tw N wc t H ddo , his first lessons in reading and spelling from one Robin Cowens ari thmetic and writing he learnt in a night-school

at e urn e a man am n er s n . N wb , k pt by Scotch n ed A drew Rob t o His first years of work were spent at various places in H was l thi s distri ct . e emp oyed at the colliery at Black ’ aller n ri e the Gin an d a erwar s as ra es an C to to d v , ft d b k m P In at Dolly it Colliery . 1802 he was married in Newburn ur ere his si na ure is s be n in th Ch ch, wh g t till to see e re i s er an r m the ur r h i hi i e a g t , d f o ch ch doo e carr ed s w f way on rse a she si in ehin him his me at ho b ck, tt g b d , to ho

- illin n ua . He was en en one and ere ere W gto Q y th tw ty , th w twenty more years of thought and labour before him ere he in u e Ed ar ease th e ua er nsi er the meri s d c d w d P , Q k , to co d t his i of steam eng ne .

On both sides of the Tyne in the stretch between r ri e Newburn and Co b dg there are several places of interest . Newbum itself has been the scene of various encounters e een an d En lis ru e as tle one the b tw Scotch g h ; P dho C , of s r l s the er amil and re i usl the t ongho d of P cy f y , p v o y of Umfravilles is an ex remel i ures ue and in eres n , t y p ct q t ti g ruin . Cherr burn lose was th la y , c by, e birthp ce of Thomas ewi the am us en ra er is uri in th u B ck, f o g v , who b ed e ch rch ar of O in am a r ss the ri s e y d v gh , c o ver, where al o li es Georg T E E R 202 H NCHANTING NO TH .

’ e h ns n s m er Ma el arr w se amil li e St p e o oth , b C , ho f y had v d i ere in Ovingham for centur es . Th are remains of ancient as les at Naflerton and at ell and at the la er lace c t Byw , tt p are old hur es one i n n as the hi e urc two c ch , of wh ch , k ow W t Ch h , was in osses si n the u us inian an ns lan lan p o of A g t C o of B ch d , and the er mm nl alle the la ur h is a oth , co o y c d B ck Ch c , th t M ’ e ene i ines . ar an w n s Pri a of th B d ct of St y d St . Os y ory t

nem u . ere the ne assumes mu i ures ness Ty o th H Ty ch p ct que , and one begins to forget the smoke of Newcas tle and the i mephit c odours of J arrow.

i e e urn r ri e now a small wn was n e L k N wb , Co b dg , to , o c a la e nsi era le im r an e sessin ur ur hes p c of co d b po t c , pos g fo ch c

an nas er an sendin r n atives arli amen . d a mo t y , d g eprese t to P t ere at the un i n the ne and the Cor a i n H , j ct o of Ty , t y stream which descends from the hills on the Durham border and winds past the site of the battle of Newbiggen was the man s a i n Corsto itum ere atli n ree Ro t t o of p , wh W g St t r ss e the ne an d ere numer us interes n remains c o d Ty , wh o ti g n un at vari us imes The ur have bee earthed o t . ch ch of r e e nl one now remainin the St. Andrew in Co bridg (th o y g of four already referred to) was built out of the remains of o o m x i C rst pi m , an d is e ceptionally notable as conta ning a considerable amount of architecture dating from long before

i - the Norman Conquest . There s here in the market square a x a le a l- i o very good e mp of pee tower. In the ne ghbourho d ere are se eral la es in eres — n as le a fine ex th v p c of t t Aydo C t , ample of the domes tic architecture of the thirteenth century ; a en all the lar es un r use in r um erlan M tf H , g t co t y ho No th b d ; al n as le a s uare er the rman ee s le H to C t , q tow of No k p ty , but i r s at its ur an les and ils n a lace in w th tu re t fo g D to , p hi one mi li er for an in efini e eri seein t a w ch ght ng d t p od , g h t it is no nl i s ue and r man i in th es e ree t o y p cture q o t c e high t d g , but also possesses speci al interest because of its associations

i the ill- a e r erwen wa er the os se w th f t d Lo d D t t , gh t of who coun s is i the ruins use i tes sa d to haunt of the ho to wh ch, a er his ex ecu i n on er ill in ar 1 16 she ft t o Tow H , Febru y, 7 ,

E H XHAM . 203

a eli ull si ua e on a la eau a ve the Hex h m, d ghtf y t t d p t bo river and commanding widespread vi ews of Tynedale as the un ens out es ar has no l n er the im rtance co try op w tw d , o g po which it poss essed in the days when it was capital of a

a new importance as a place of resort for tourists who love i i it f rms a con antiquiti es. It s full of interest in tself o veni ent centre from which to ex plore the two branches of the ne an d r m it one ma eas il ma e a uain ance Ty , f o y y k cq t with a considerable stretch of the Roman Wall. Of the an tiquity of the town one is speedily convinced by a mere c i n mes r ins e . Its e ax n i urso y p ct o Abb y goes back to S o t , and its is r t as he s a a i i and as a h to y , bo h t e t of b shopr c

r u is ull of in i en . is linke in mm n it bo o gh, f c d t It d, co o w h

the a e rals r and Ri on he name . c th d of Yo k p , to t of St Wilfri th and e erle ins er t r u he cia i n , to B v y M t h o gh t asso t o of

. o n e erle was at one i e i St J h of B v y, who t m B shop of x W . ilf ith a n r He ham St . r founded church and mo aste y here ar s the end the se en en ur urin his rei n tow d of v th c t y, d g g

rian in s bu in ea ase ma e a su ess ul a eal b k g , t ch c d cc f pp to R me and was in an e s n he in o , occup cy of th ee whe died

0 . i the ea ish Tidferth in 821 the 7 9 W th d th of B op , , is ri la se r no -a in n an six ears b hop c p d th ough n ppo tme t , d ty y la er was mer e in a ur am r m en e it was t g d th t of D h , f o wh c subsequently taken away during the occupancy of that see by Ralph Flambard ( 1099 and given to the arch ” di ese of r in hi it remain a c li a oc Yo k, w ch ed as pe u r

un il 18 en i was res re . i e t 37 , wh t to d to Durham Dur ng th reign of the Sax on bishops it ex ercised great influence in e lesias i al ma ers in r um ria an was n idere cc t c tt No th b , d co s d the m s im r an cen re n o t po t t church t orth of York.

The ma nifi en e ur ex am the rea g c t Abb y Ch ch of H h , g t ri e and l r the t n and is i is one the fines p d g o y of ow d tr ct, of t 204 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

M ples of the Early English style of architecture in the

un r and ex ceeds in size m re an one our a edrals . co t y, o th of c th In spite of the fact that it and the surrounding town were el m a e the anes and s ere are se sor y altre t d by D Scot , th veral the ri inal urc in r rated in it an the of o g ch h co po , d i r ime Wi r s un u edl the . lfrith c ypt do bt y wo k of t of St , who appears to have quarried for his material amongs t the R man remai ns at Corsto itum Earl in w o p . y the t elfth century Archbishop Thomas II of York caused the church be m le el res re and rom a ime nwar to co p t y to d, f th t t o d both church and monas tery flouri shed ex ceedingly in the hands of an n now b a the Augustini an C o s . There are ut sm ll remai ns h nas ic uil in s but the c ur i sel i of t e mo t b d g , h ch t f (w th the i n e eas end i is m ern and has een ex cept o of th t , wh ch od b r re not isel is in a fine s a e reser a i n es to d too w y) t t of p v t o , in and of the deepes t terest to lovers of great architecture . T ial in T e ro -screen he features of spec teres t are many . h od is the only wooden screen with a loft which we have in his un and is ar i ula l n i ea le for a seri es t co try, p t c r y ot c b of

six teen panel paintings of the Sax on bishops of Hex ham. ere as at e erle an d at S rotborou h near n aster H , B v y, p g , Do c ,

is a ri -s l or sea ea e the final re u e se f th to , t of p c , f g of tho ’ ai e i in Wi s who cl med refug w th the boundary of St . lfri th ” eace i ex en e for one mil in all di re i ns r m P , wh ch t d d e ct o f o

it . In the n r ranse is a er e an m num o th t pt v y fin Rom o ent, which represents a mounted soldier riding over a fallen O nen it an ins ri i n s win a it ri inall ppo t , w h c pt o ho g th t o g y c ere or mar e the ra e one Flavi nus s an ar ov d k d g v of , t d d e an i s r ea the bearer of th troop of C d du . Othe f tures of c urc th urious r fin the an i en r the h h are e c oo g of c t c ypt , ni -s ai r i the m n s ame servi e r m the ght t , by wh ch o k c to c f o rmi r and the series ra es nes the hi r een do to y, of g v to of t t th century whi ch covered the tombs of various members of F w urc es in n s the order. e ch h the North of E gland posses

so muc in eres or so mu ar i e au . h t t, ch ch t ctural be ty

ex am i sel u m ernize in nsi era le de ree H h t f, tho gh od d co d b g , ossesses man fea ures old- p y t of world life . In the picturesque

E I H 206 TH ENCHANT NG NORT .

Cduru m—o ne of the most perfect remains of a Roman — station in the country and with the ancient battlefield of

v f or Hefenfelth ere n . s ald ris ian Ki n He en eld . wh o St O w , Ch t g

in 6 ear arras rd on an eminenc ver Britons 35 . N B fo , e o l in the ri er is au n as le one the mos ook g v , H ghto C t , of t

er on is im n urn the en re at a little furth S o b , c t of wh was n e un once o e of the larges t pari shes in th co try . There was a tle ere at one ime but the illa ers rme a n i on cas h t , v g fo d ot a it n ai ne muc urie reasure and ulle it own th t co t d h b d t , p d d

the ' me the am us ree in famil Bower, ho of f o f boot g y of arl n r m the ari us c r ni les ri en thsm Ch to , who, f o v o h o c w tt of ,

i All the wa al n th r ne t e might mak es r ght. y o g e No th Ty h and a fitting conclusion to a journey along it can be found at the ir e ne a r a illar roc i s an s G dl Sto , g e t p of k, wh ch t d n n ex actly on the line which separates E gla d from Scotland.

No one should leave this part of Northumberland without mak in at an ra e s me ex amina n the man all g y t o tio of Ro W , i as has alrea een in out cr sses the r wh ch, dy b po ted , o No th n near ller r ller i c mm Ty e Cho fo d. Cho ford s often re o ended as a centre for su an ex l ra i n and rm a er ch p o t o , fo s v y convenient centre where good hotel accommodation can be aine The remains i lurmmr e ll r r obt d. of C ar close to Cho e fo d, in th un s a a e eaters e gro d tt ched to the country seat call d Ch . e are sin ularl in eres n and a e i el e a uan i Th y g y t ti g, h v y d d q t ty of Roman remains whi ch are carefully pre served here in a museum si ua e in the r un s ller r ere t t g o d . From Cho fo d , too, th is a road running alongside the wall for several miles and lea in Housesteads the Borcovi cus n so d g to , of the Roma s, 2 THE ROMAN WALL. 07

ex cellent idea of this remarkable piece of mili tary engi neering.

but it mus be remem ere a for l se u n appointed, t b d th t c o po

any man in the neighbourhood who wanted to build a a e or a shee l h el e imsel reel the house , byr , pfo d, p d h f f y to mans had ewn and dres se the an ien stones which the Ro h d , c t

el The all is m s im ressi e at in s li e all might d ve . w o t p v po t k

m in m r and lake and ence one sees of sea and ounta , oo , wh

n ell er se en miles one mus needs a dis ta ce of w ov v ty , t wonder at the vast amount of labour put into its con

n i mu rn in min a have been as a defe ce . But t s t be bo e d th t we nl see i in a ra men ar n i i n and a con o y t f g t y co d t o , th t, sidering the peri od in which it was made and the state of

to invaders from the North which we can scarcely concei ve

all was a s ne all m e re are s nes are ull of to w , ad of p p d to , c f y s a e and cemen e e er an a ei el e h p d t d tog th , d of h ght of tw v

ee it a i c or r m a in r n it . u se en f t, w h d t h d y o t f o t of Abo t v ty ar s ehi n hi s all was an er uil ur and y d b d t w oth , b t of t f earth, an e h w il in ervals d b tween t e t o walls ran a m itary road . At t of a Roman mile (equal to seven furlongs of our reckoning)

ere castles ur-s uare a u fi ee in ea ire i n w , fo q , of bo t fty f t ch d ct o

- e een ese a ain ere small a ers . a i s ance b tw th , g , w w tch tow At d t e er ur miles was a s a i nar am in ea i of v y fo t t o y c p , ch of wh ch

a c r was s a i ne . ons an wa h was ke and it oho t t t o d C t t tc pt , would have been difi cult for the Picts to have crossed a line d en so well o u of ef ce devised and s closely g arded. HE E T NCHANTING NORTH .

South of the junction of the North Tyne wi th the South Tyne there are two districts which should be visited by all urne ex am r m hence can who jo y to H h , f o w they each be — ll n ale rail lan hlan roa reached A e d by , B c d by d. Blanchland n wa r m an where but the roa s i i is a lo g y f o y , d to t, wh ch soli ar ex anses m rlan are u lie across t y p of oo d, s ch as the

rwen a uain out-of-the-wa villa e so o el De t, q t, y g , c mplet y

f tti h booters comin there k a body o Sco s free , g to ransac the

e elf cen ur oul not find it un il e from th tw th t y, c d t th m b e i i f e urch b There are guided to it y th r ng ng o th ch ells . x i still some remains of this house e stent. The church has

e ra s n on i seems ave some finely carv d g ve to es , e of wh ch to h an The an i n re been that of abbot. c e t fectory was appro

to a villa e reen ar un i the illa e is uil . is g g , o d wh ch v g b t Th

a ou - i - veritable home of pe ce. Allendale is scarcely so t o the way ; it is in fact a valley in whi ch lead mini ng is carried on somew a ex ensi el and is m re or less in u i h t t v y, o to ch w th

rl . an le astle a i a r m e rei n the wo d L g y C , d t ng b ck f o th g of

E war . is now es re as a m ern mansi n and d d III , r to d od o , south of the town of Allendale there is a stretch of hill and m rlan un r ier e no rail a and li tle roa in oo d co t y , p c d by w y t d, li u fin in n which those who love so t de can d it ple ty.

T e coun r r hi h the u ne fl ws if h t y th ough w c So th Ty o , not so interesting as that which is intersected by the North

ne has still len s the servan ra eller. Ty , p ty to how ob t t v A few miles beyond the junction of the two ri vers (whereat the church and bri dge of Warden should be noted) the

Fair Ridl on t e silv r T n ey h e y e .

THE E 20 RIDL YS . 9

u ern ran ri r er u to join the so th b ch of the ve . H eabo ts the

scener is ar i ularl l el . ee w s the fines in the y p t c y ov y D p ood , t le r um erlan er an the an the ne who of No th b d, ov h g b k of Ty for miles an are in ersec e lan at s hi , d t t d by wood d p h w ch in s r m en li ul ws lead to po t f o wh ce de ghtf vie are obtained .

Willimoteswick is one the ers ur-s uare hi At of tow , fo q , w ch our forefathers of thes e parts were obliged to build in e en e eir eas war it em ere am n s d f c of th cattle t d of , bow d o g t o s is n an ere is i le the mar r is wo d , U th k , wh B hop R d y, ty , sai ha e een rn and ere here is s n a am er d to v b bo , wh t how ch b ’ l is s m ere a man em i a s cal ed the B hop Roo . Th are good y m or l — of the Ridleys hereabouts they were lords of the man or Willimot eswick and l s heir lands r u alle ian e of , o t t th o gh g c m a e the uar s . One is remin e e t al is l to St t d d of th H twh t , where they and the Arrnstrongs had more than one encounter

ic en e in l ss li e . In a all i s un r sou wh h d d o of f f ct , th co t y th wards to Alston and west to the Border was in the old days continually witnes sing some brawl or other amongst idle s Arrns tron s Featherstonhau hs and similar s u R y , g , g , to t la was en as it man n ds . is now a lan r e a d It th , , d of o c e r and one e s a e er i ea it r m the old po t y , g t b tt d of f o ds an country balla th from dry facts and plai n statistics . The worst of it nowadays is that its folk have become m erni ze and no l n er o ca le - li in or runnin awa od d , o g g tt ft g g y i h eir a w t th d ughters . CHAPTER II .

The N o rthumberland Coas t .

UCH more interes ting in point of associ ation and of si al eau an a of ur am the r um phy c b ty th th t D h , No th berland coast-line h as certain characteristics in common with its m re sou erl nei ur in res ec the a a it o th y ghbo , p t of f ct th t is en ame an d mono onous and in the ne ur oft t t , ighbo hood of the ne i en u li e the es the ur am Ty g v p , k first stretch of D h as in us rialism and the co t , to d t . Between Tynemouth Blyth

al-field mes o n th e er e e the sea i the co co d w to v y dg of , w th res ult that chimneys and shaftings obtrude themselves where in other counties one would look for the towers and spires illa e ur es the ruins old castles or the sai ls of v g ch ch , of , of a in ill Yet is e is not i u w dm . th str tch of the coast w tho t its ass cia i ns nor its la es in eres uman in eres o t o p c of t t . H t t,

in ee is s r n en u am n s hese sea- as llier d d, t o g o gh o g t t co t co y

la es and is not sel m as i a an ale the sea. p c , do trag c s y t of ar le llier alm s on the as ere urred At H t y Co y , o t co t , th occ

. 5 1862 one of the most terrible catastrophes ever

- — recorded in the history of Bri tish coal mining o ver two

EN HA I 212 THE C NT NG NORTH.

in r in had se en om ani or and was a flou ish g state . It v c p es ui ds ra esmen r m i a c r ra i n was rme g l of t d , f o wh ch o po t o fo d, se eli era i ns th e l r the man r res i e over who d b t o o d of o p d d, and from the records pres erved it mus t have been one of r i the most prosperous and enterp is ng places in the North. n er the de Merle s the Gre s tocks an the a res it U d y , y d D c ,

saw a good deal of the events whi ch help to make history .

passages -at - arms between the building of the castle and its surrender to the Royalis ts under the Marquis of Montro se in u i ie i r li s in i im an as a 1644. B t ts ch f h sto y e ts port ce mar e n in i a a i it di s in uis e i sel in k t tow , wh ch c p c ty t g h d t f i n i r i ies old days over most of ts e ghbou s . Vas t quant t of a e r r u ere r m a er earl eri and c ttl we e b o ght h f o v y y p od, from the enumeration of the various trades followed it would appear that Morpeth fro m the fourteenth century uri i n n re mmer e was a flo sh g ce t of co c .

Of the ancient landmarks in Morpeth there are many i in er i l remains e as le wh ch are of much t es t . L tt e of th c t e n th e a e a i is remar a le for its ea e b yo d g t w y, wh ch k b p k d

- ro an un mm n ea ure . The ur een en ur ur of, co o f t fo t th c t y ch ch ar n ai ns a esse in o some fine old lass of St . M y co t J w d w, g , and a curious Latin inscri ption on the graves tone of one enr Gu 1 in it is a e o re or the ro res s H y y, 5 97 , who m d t c d p g

his l e for his i e ar i in n . es e ere of ov w f , M y W dd gto Th two w rn on the same da a ise on the same da and ein bo y, b pt d y, b g ~ h - ls wedded ad two couples of boy twins and three gi r . There is in the churchyard here a watch -tower whi ch was

uil uri n the -sna i n ani a en ur a o and b t d g body tch g p c of c t y g , n i On e an s the ightly occup ed by a watchman . th b k of ri er near he si e an an i en ri e ulle n se en v , t t of c t b dg p d dow v ty ears a o is an old uil in in i the m n s le ie y g , b d g wh ch o k v d oll on all ro sse the ri e and was at one ime t who c d by b dg , t as a an e e in he s uare used ch try chapel. Th mark t house t q is old and quaint ; over against it is a square tower from ic the curf h l i n ni wh h ew el s ru g every ght. MITFORD AN D CRESSWELL .

There are several places in the immediate neighbourhood i ell s r i n a To e of Morpeth wh ch are w de e v g of visit . th es twar in a mea near the an s the ans e w d, dow b k of W b ck , stands all that is left of the once famous and powerful e e mi ns er un e for e enefi the Abb y of N w t , fo d d th b t of is erci ans Ranul h de Merle en e it ri l C t by p y, who dow d ch y ere is li le le now e n an ar but the r un Th tt ft b yo d ch , g o d c il rac Mi r n a ar n lan an eas be t e . e m e p y d At tfo d , o c k t tow i di s u e ri e la e i or e is an an i en wh ch p t d p d of p c w th M p th , c t ur i a orman na e an Earl En li s an el an ch ch w th N v , y g h ch c d some in eres in m numen s ere are the remai ns t t g o t ; h , too , of s ri r the Norman castle of the Bertram . Th e ve scenery here is eli ul an d was el illi am i th d ghtf , h d by W How tt to be e

elies its in in En lan . n ee m s eo le lov t of k d g d I d d, o t p p who begin an ex ploration of the Wansbeck west of Morpeth will be em e n inue it in efini el for it er ainl lea s t pt d to co t d t y, c t y d in a m s eau i ul un r es e iall a u al to o t b t f co t y, p c y bo t Both , where there are more memorials of the Bertrams in the remai ns of the castle and in the church which li es beneath i alls ts w .

e een r e and ar w r ei er on the r B tw Mo p th W k o th , th coast o in an r i a li le wa l are se e al la es n eres . tt y d , v p c of t t At

ress ell ere is an old eel- er i is sai C w th p tow , wh ch d to be haunted by the ghost of a lady who had a Dani sh lover on one his eri i visi s her was slai n her who, of p od c t to , by r ers on the s re enea she a in r m the b oth ho b th , w tch g f o tower

at the ime . r ress ell but ur er inlan i t No th of C w , f th d, s i rin t n the sea the an i en amil a name W dd g o , t of c t f y of th t , avin a rea l al the uar s ere en er ai n who , h g g t oy ty to St t , h t t ed am in r al ashi n on his wa r u J es I . oy f o y f om Edinb rgh to

n n u alian l for arles I. and finall l Lo do , fo ght v t y Ch , y ost e er t hi n but are li e in su r in the Old re n v y g b f ppo t g P te der . ill ur er n r at Chibbum are the r ains St f th o th , , em of a re e r ni s em lars s ill ur er a r ss p c pto y of K ght T p ; t f th , c o the ue one the mos armin th sm ri Coq t , of t ch g of e aller vers of Northumberland (and one justly celebrated amongs t the 2 1 THE E A 4 NCH NTING NORTH .

is i les zaa al n is the ur u z d c p of I k W to ) , ch ch of G y ance , a

ee l in eres in ruin a ransi i nal- orman e ifi e d p y t t g of T t o N d c , which formerly belonged to the Premonstratensi an Canons of i r m enea u z h Alnw ck . F o b th G y ance t e Coquet winds through a ri l - o e len ar w r sea e r udl a e ch y w od d g to W k o th , t d p o y bov the ri er and the sea and lea s the ra e r on v , d t v lle to e of the m s s ri in i s of the r ri an o t t k g b t No thumb coas t .

ar r li e its nei ur ln i is l s W kwo th, k ghbo of A w ck, c o ely identified with the hi story and the fortunes of the great

amil er . Its astle i rises i u n a f y of P cy c , wh ch h gh po eni nsula rme the i n in s of the ue was one p fo d by w d g Coq t, the m s rmi a le in th w uil n of o t fo d b e North . It as b t soo

a er the orman on ues ro a l a i z- i ar a ft N C q t, p b b y by F t R ch d, family whi ch became ex ti nct during the reign of Edward III us ec mi n ossesse the es a e a e it the who, th b o g p d of t t , g v to se n r er in the an s of ose amil it has co d Lo d P cy, h d wh f y e er sin e emai ne it the ex e i on of cer ain in ervals v c r d, w h c pt t t erein the en ol ers ere i n un er a ain er u wh th h d w ly g d tt d . Tho gh now in eri r to its nei ur ln i the c ie sea of f o ghbo of A w ck , h f t the u es of or um erlan sin e eir rea i n in 1 66 D k N th b d c th c t o 7 , ar w r is a mos im sin s ru ure and the i er W k o th t po g t ct , h gh tow above its keep is a prominent landmark all over the rr undin un r an d for miles ou a sea a urall su o g co t y t t . It is n t y associ a e wi man s irrin i o t d th y t g h st rical events . It was i e and a en enr in 1 i bes eg d t k by H y IV . 405 t was the scene ’ (if Shakespeare s history is t o be trusted) of the passage e een arr s ur and his i e a e in i b tw H y Hot p w f K t , wh ch he was called to make choice between love an d duty ; at its gates Lord Widdringt on and General Fors ter proclaimed the e 1 1 Sufler o all in e a a er e Old Pret nder in 7 5 . ed t f to d c y ft th i il War d s ri ed its lea a ser an the C v , an t pp of d by v t of er amil it has sur i e the e r a i ns ime more P cy f y, v v d d p ed t o of t su ess ull an mos s ru ures its s r and an ne cc f y th t t ct of o t, yo gazing at it from the banks of the Coquet would imagine that it was as formidable and in as good a state of preser

vation as ever.

216 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

There are several an ci ent and picturesque thi ngs to ar rt and n a l the h in the town of W kwo h, ot b y c urch of ere ere are remains the ri inal Sax n St . Andrew, wh th of o g o edifi e and a eal rman ar i e ure the c , good d of No ch t ct of The rea a ra i n at ar w r twelfth century . g t tt ct o W k o th, how s eo le and es e iall l ers the r man i ever, to mo t p p , p c y to ov of o t c , e ermi a e erein one the er rams al is is th H t g , wh of B t of Both e li the li e a re luse for man sai d to hav ved f of c y years . . The story forms the subj ect of one of the bes t kn own of e r alla s and ma be us rie summari se th Pe cy B d , y th b fly d hal ell in l e i sa el au er Sir Bertram of Bot f ov w th I b , d ght of th en r i drin t n ile l in him in e th Lo d of W d g o , who , wh ov g re urn was min e ut him s me es and a r in l t , d d to p to o t t, cco d g y sent him a helmet which she bade him wear and prove ere h an i s in eli er rewarding him with er h d. Th be g d v ed to him as he sat at mea i h r er at ln i as le he t w t Lo d P cy A w ck C t , immedi ately besought his host to arrange a foray agai nst the s i was s ee il rou a u it the resul Scot , wh ch p d y b ght bo t , w h t a Sir er ram u erin imsel i h l r was th t B t , tho gh cov g h f w t g o y, ri un e In is s a e he was a en ar g evously wo d d . th t t t k to W k as l not the ar on the or ne but a on e C t e ( W k N th Ty , th t th r er near lds ream ereun sa el earin his bo d , Co t ) wh to I b , h g of mis a s rai a re ai re nurse him a i e h p, t ghtw y p d to b ck to l f . She and her a en an s o e er ell in i a tt d t , h w v , f w th Scottish l he la an r i e s e t er d a ri e the la a a . ch f, who w tt c d dy w y Sir er ram re erin r m the eflect of hi s un s se B t , cov g f o wo d , t m an i his r r r ue out in e es her. e ara in co p y w th b oth to c S p t g, it so chan ced that th e brother was the first to come upon ’ sa s ris n r m i c he had us rele s I bel p o , f o wh h j t a ed her when

Sir ertram arri e . He not rec nisin his r er an B v d , og g b oth , d a in him for the enem fell u n and sle hi t k g y , po w m, and s el in e r enin was also a i en all slain h I ab , t v g, cc d t y by er lover ul in out hi s mis ere she co d po t take. Thi s terrible contre ’ temps so aflected Sir Bertram s mind that he immedi ately a e all he had the r and e i n r g v to poo , b gg g f om Lord Percy a uie re rea on the an s the u q t t t b k of Coq et, retired there . 2 1 .WARKWORTH 7

to make himself a cell wherein he could pass the rest of an his life in prayer and pen ce .

The ermi a e li le an e r m the a s en its H t g , tt ch g d f o d y wh u an at las un his i ils at an end is a ura el occ p t t fo d v g , cc t y i in am u alla i s e s leads u descr bed the f o s b d . A fl ght of t p p ri An u er ell or es i ule to it from the edge of th e ver. o t c v t b , uil a ains a r mmuni a es means an er b t g t ock , co c t by of oth i s e s i a ell i a r in ra i i n the fl ght of t p w th c wh ch, cco d g to t d t o hermit ex cavated wi th his own han ds out of the solid i is rees ne . his the ri n i al scene his ex ia n f to T , p c p of p t o , ei een ee in len t se en ee in ei and se en ee ght f t g h , v f t h ght, v f t The r is in an s ri n s r m in breadth . oof gro ed d p g f o two

- ex a nal illars th r r end is an al ar it semi h go p . At e fu the t w h

- two s e s . On the ri is an al ar m on i is a t p ght t to b , wh ch

emale fi ure . the i s arv e on the all is f g At foot of th , c d w , e ure a an n li n in ra An inner a ar men th fig of m k ee g p yer . p t t is pierced by a sli t so contrived as to command a view of the al ar - om and fr m a re ess in it resuma l the t t b, o c , p b y ’ ermi s slee in la e the same e aflection and h t p g p c , obj ct of nera i n ul be n i x a a i n is a so r ve t o co d see . Outs de the e c v t o t l is er erl i n the ue and a e it reac e of c o t , ov ook g Coq t , bov , h d

a in in s ai r a was th e ar en . rdi n by w d g t w y, g d Acco g to Dr r m mo i el in su . e the e r r ram was P cy , y of S r Be t h d ch enera ion the er amil a e main aine a v t by P cy f y , th t th y t d c an r - ri es in the ermi a e a er his ea li ve h t y p t H t g ft d th , who d there an d sai d Mass once a day for his soul an d for the s uls h se he had slain and the same au ri afli rms o of t o , tho ty that this endowment was kept up until the Dissoluti on of n i t the Mo as teries n he six teenth century .

Ofl th e mouth of the Coquet is the small island which

ears its name . is e limi e ex en and was b It of v ry t d t t , rmerl in the ccu an the ene i ines nem ut fo y o p cy of B d ct of Ty o h , main aine a ell ere near the si e i now who t d c h , t of wh ch ’ s ands a li ouse i ra e arlin s r t er was t ghth , of wh ch G c D g b o h at one ime the r e li le see al n th t keepe . Ther is tt to o g e as e een ere and Alnm u a la e s me n e in co t b tw h o th , p c of o ot 218 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

ax n a s an now a seasi e res r it an ex ellen S o d y , d d o t , w h c t l urse hi s ul leas e eo le l e ui e u e go f co , w ch ho d p p p who ov q t d

‘ in n minen ur and ra ai r. ere in 68 o an e e alle b c g H , 4 , c c d Ch ch

ill now alm s as e a a the sea . u er was H , o t w h d w y by , St C thb t elected Bishop of Li ndi sfarne at a Synod presided over by r is e re and a en e ri i n A chb hop Th odo , tt d d by n d, K g of u ri On i inen a ax n ur i u ed North mb a. th s em ce S o ch ch s s ppos a ac a n to h ve repl ed a he the temple dedi cated to Woden .

From Alnmouth one may follow the River Aln to Alnwi ck and its as le the sea of the erc s se m ern to c t , t P y , who od re s n a i es the u es of or um erlan are ere pre e t t v , D k N th b d, h in alm s r al s a e Aln i i l is a housed o t oy t t . w ck tse f place of in res in man a s was n e th m great te t y w y . It o c e ost im r an o n in r um erlan nex ew as le and po t t t w No th b d, t to N c t , figured largely in the perpetual wars which went on between a a s it s n Engli sh an d Scotch . Now d y till prese ts the appear

an e of an old - worl n and t u its alls a e alm s c d tow , ho gh w h v o t n l isa eare and the inevi a le e i en es m n e tire y d pp d , t b v d c of oder ity a e re in o it it ossesses a man relies h v c pt t , p good y of a ur the influen of medie valism. N t ally ce the Percys is seen

e er ere . The er ion is on the las the old a es v ywh P cy L t of g t , Bondgate on the gre at pillar erected in 1876 in memory of the second Duke of Northumberlan d on the altar-tomb the ir u e in the m ern ur An of th d D k od ch ch of St . drew. There were formerly some quaint ceremoni es h eld in the n i res e admissi on the F tow w th p ct of to body of reernen , one of which necessitated a plunge into a pool called the ’ Freemen s ell erein in n ell en un in ut W , wh K g Joh f wh h t g, b e a e een di sc n inue mu the l ss i u u th y h v b o t d , ch to o of p ct res q e ur esses e er s ill e ness . The e u the b g , how v , t k p p custom of doing service to the Duke of Northumberland by mounting guard over the town from twilight to midnight on one — night in the year the Sunday preceding the gre at fai r in — July a nd thus ex cuse themselves from the payment of

certai n ancient dues .

2 1 ALNWICK . 9

It is irnposs ible within circumscribed limits to do more than give a brief outli ne of the history of such a family as a erc or of the rea cas le i rises a e the th t of P y , g t t wh ch bov e i en it is rne in min a the town and th r ver. Wh bo d th t banner of the Duk! of Northumberland bears close upon nine hundred armori al ensigns and that the ducal house has been connected at vari ous peri ods with our own royal family and wi t ose ran e and ain it will be re nise th h of F c Sp , cog d that it would be a seri ous tas k to tell its story from i nnin Yet ln i as le and the er s a e beg g to end. A w ck C t P cy h v a n x u o r ln i was uil not alw ys bee mi ed p t gethe . A w ck b t by the de Vescis and the firs erc e ame ossesse , t P y who b c p d of it enr de erc was a or shi re aron se rin i al , H y P y, Y k b , who p c p a f But seats until then ( 1309) were t Spofforth and Topclif e . sin e en i the ex ce ion the ri e in er als urin c th , w th pt of b f t v d g i e ere un er a ain er the er s an d Aln i wh ch th y w d tt d , P cy w ck n n in e The rec r of the have bee fused in commo t rest . o d vari ous heads of the house as given in the history of the nation is too well known to need reference ; as warriors and statesmen they have always made some considerable

mar and ave c u ie the i es ofli ces . n er eir k, h o c p d h gh t U d th an s naturall the as le ori inall uil illiam de h d , y , c t g y b t by W n But Ves ci and his successor grew in size and stre gth . a it is a it is now a ma nificen ile i u ies th t wh t , g t p wh ch o tv an thi n in the o hi c i s at nce ld and new is y g N rth w h o o , due to the en er ri se the fi u e of or u erlan t p of fth D k N th mb d, urin hi s oc u an c of the es a es s n n o who, d g c p y t t , pe t e orm us s ms in uil in and res ora on i u b d g t ti . He s sai d to have ex en e in uil in the ru e er hi p d d b d g P dho Tow , w ch rms su a rominen ea ure the as le and in ma in fo ch p t f t of c t , k g er im ro emen s but hi s u la u n the astle i l oth p v t , o t y po c tse f was probably nothing to the amount he spent upon matters i m re l sel fl cte l who li n i wh ch o c o y a e d th e fo k ved o h s land . or in an i uar ar i le in the Times news a er Acc d g to ob t y t c p p , he lai out er in uil in a es in d ov b d g cott g , drai na e in ma in roa s and rid es and g , k g d b g , 220 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

es a lis e sc ls set u li eb a s and li eb a s a i ns t b h d hoo , p f o t f o t t t o , e in the m s li eral as i n ari i es and s en gav o t b f h o to ch t , p t large sums in keeping up the Roman Wall and in ex cavating man ri is remains in the n r the y B t h o th of the county .

The astle i es so mu is m ern ene c , wh ch ow ch to th od b a r ers a as area r und and re ui res s me f cto , cov v t of g o , q o l r n As the fi u e o f time for ex p o atio . res tored by fth D k Northumberland it presents itself as an ex ample of the ali an ala i al s le of ar i e ure and ali an ar hi e s It p t ty ch t ct , It c t ct in i n i n i ro m were employed ts co struct o . Qu te apart f i ts magnificence as a structure and its splendid position above the Aln it is a eri a le reasure use art and n ains , v t b t ho of , co t ne h fines lle ions i ures in the un r o of t e t co ct of p ct co t y, includi ng the famous Italian collecti on made by the brothers ie r an Vincenzio Carnuccini e er i ex am les P t o d , tog th w th p of ’ re In the e or er s the work of most of the g at masters . R c d Tower is housed a large collection of Egyp tian antiquities ; weapons ; and in the Postern Tower a museum of British and man remai ns i is s e ial in eres ecause Ro , wh ch of p c t t b most of its contents have been unearthed in Northumberland. There are equally interes ting things and places to see outside he as le es e iall in the ides rea in ar erein are t c t , p c y w p d g p k, wh the an ien armeli e nas er Hulne Brislee er c t C t Mo t y of Tow , i omman s a ma nificen ie ex en in r m the wh ch c d g t v w, t d g f o e i s he sea a ri is is and a rea l Ch v ot to t ; B t h C t , g t b ock of s ne i mar the s erea illi am the i n sand to wh ch ks pot wh t W L o ,

in o lan was a ure ern ar ali l in 11 . K g of Sc t d, c pt d by B d B o 74 Ei er in or a ou the astle or in the ardens or ar one th b t c , g p k, might spend man y days with much pleasure and profit.

Between Alnwick and the coast there is another country house which is remarkable for its art tre asures and its rose

ar en . o i c all the sea Earl re u ies a g d H w k H , t of G y, occ p ’ i io n a i l - e ene p cturesque posit n o the edge of th ck y wood d d ,

N 1 DUNSTA BOROUGH CASTLE. 22

re are ie the En li s s l and ere are se eral he ch fly of g h choo , th v o of a r n In ur ex amples of the w rk Sir Thomas L w e ce . the ch ch is a fine monument under a Gothi c canopy in memory of the n Earl re rime Mini s er un er ose adminis ra i n seco d G y, P t , d wh t t o (1830- 1834 ) the Reform Act of 1832 was carried through liam The ouse is m ern but s an s on the si e Par ent . h od , t d t r li n i and of an ancient st onghold. A ttle to the orth of t ’ nearer the sea is r as er er m ern r m an old C t Tow , od ized f o

u name is said to have dwelt since before the Norman Conq es t.

Dunstanborou h as tle a l nel ile set i a ve At g C , o y p h gh bo the sea the r um erlan as en ers u n its m s , No th b d co t t po o t s an r an i s re r m his in n rt ar picture que d om t c t tch. F o t po t o hw d,

lease hi s e and in rm his min on the e the sea to p ey fo d edg of , h n i urnin inlan re r li le without t e eces s ty of t g d. The is ve y tt l the a ual ruins Dunstanboro h as le but the eft of ct of ug C t , promontory on which it stands is certai nly one of the most i a n n e a ri inall a fasc n ting bits of sce ery o th e s t coast . O g y ri i s ron l and a erwar s a man carn uns an B t sh t gho d ft d Ro p , D t borough in the fourteenth century was in the hands of the rea Th mas Earl an as er mos wer ul En lis g t o , of L c t , t po f of g h n les his ime but not er ul en u re en the ob of t , pow f o gh to p v t loss of hi s own head in sight of his own castle of Pontefract . e cas ella his use e in 1 1 but it nl ex is e as H t ted ho h re 3 5 , o y t d for en uries ei n es r e so n a er the a fortress two c t , b g d t oy d o ft a tle ex am a er it had een arri s ne for ueen b t of H h , ft b g o d Q ar are is sai a e a en re u e in it for some M g t , who d to h v t k f g

a s an a e set sail rom Em le n Ba for o lan . d y , d to h v f b to y Sc t d was at i e i sman le an d has ne er since een in It th s th d t d, v b an wa res re but it ma lainl be seen at its area y y to d, y p y th ’ — u Mar are s was of considerable ex tent. Two towers Q een g t ’ and il urn s— remain and rom the la er ere is a L b , f tt th magnificent view which embraces the Cheviots on the north es nd on the s a vas s re the r Sea se w t, a ea t t t tch of No th , who 222 THE ENCHANTING NORTH .

Dunstanboro h as le like man an er an ien rui n ug C t , y oth c t , has its le en n u n a e a cer ain Sir Gu the g d . O ce po tim t y ( ” s r has een ol in erse on o is e in to y b t d v by M k L w ) , who, b g au in a r a st rm ile ri i n in the nei ur c ght g e t o wh d g ghbo hood,

find n i in e in a s el er he ul in to oth ng but ru s . G tt g wh t h t co d a a e a he was a r a he a izar who l him g t w y, pp o c d by w d , to d a a ai r la was in a i e in the as le and as e th t f dy ly g c pt v c t , k d

if the ni wa in e a tem her res ue . Sir Gu k ght s clin d to t pt c y, ein a res s chevali er ea erl assen e and was n u te b g p , g y t d, co d c d u a in in s tair and r u rs rass uar e p w d g , th o gh doo of b , g d d by a ra n in a rea all ere a un re mar le ni s d go , to g t h wh h d d b k ght sle a un re mar l o the end of hi s all pt by h d d b e h rses . At t h Sir Gu saw the la a rson rea arm was y dy, pe of g t ch , who imprisoned in a crystal cas ket which was guarded by two en rm us s ele izar now fere the ni a o o k tons . The w d of d k ght orn and a s r at the same ime in ormin him a h wo d, t f g th t ’ u n his i s re i n en e e air a i e s a e Sir Gu po d c t o dep d d th f c pt v f t . y, ui l mak in u his min soun e the hom— i erri le q ck y g p d, d d w th t b resul s The la shri e e ni ts s ran to eir ee t . dy ked th k gh p g th f t — the hors es pranced ; an d Sir Guy swooned and only re covered find himsel s i erin in the a e a is sai a he to f h v g g t w y . It d th t

s ill aun s the astle see in for the ma i s r . ere t h t c , k g g c wo d Th is somethi ng of a res emblance between thi s legend and that er m son at i n of Pott Tho p R chmo d .

Few e le one ul ima i ne ul are ass p op , wo d g , wo d c to p by the arne slan s hi lie off the as n r -eas rt F I d , w ch co t o th t of No h un erlan and Bamborou h es e i all as ere is a s i e S d d g , p c y th p c of danger attachi ng to an ex pedition to them in the fact that if rough weather should happen to spring up after isi rs are lan e on em a s a s me a s un er the v to d d th , t y of o d y d m s ri n i ese o t p mitive condi ti ons may be ecess tated. Of th islan s some en in num er the lar es alle rne d , tw ty b , g t, c d Ho slan is in ima el nne e i the is r u er I d, t t y co ct d w th h to y of St. C thb t ,

where he w n rior in or r to live a life reater as the p , de of g

E A 2 FARN ISL NDS . 23

mi s the s rie in the in s the r arin aus eri . ere a t ty H , d t h k g of w d , o g

the a es the r i n the sea- ir s en as now of w v , c y g of b d , who th , , in a i e the islan s in m ri a s he li e for se eral ears h b t d d y d , v d v y , and here he would probably have remained for ever if King

’

sai a e el . u ert s nes but it is which is d to h v h d St C thb bo , not clear how that could be unles s the cofi n was brought ' r e i r here f om some other place. All over these islands ar b ds — ir s in c un les s num ers— ufi ns uillem s i iwak es b d o t b p , g ot , k tt , erns ulls rm ran s s el rak es and se eral her in s t , g , co o t , h d , v ot k d

sea l. ere a ro ria el en u is the ir of fow H , too, pp p t y o gh, b d

The n s one on the eas the ame slan s is the Lo g t , t of F I d , scene of one of the most heroic actions which this world

has e er n n. rom it on e em er 6th 18 8 ra e ; v k ow F S pt b , 3 , G c arlin dau er illi am arlin ee er the li use D g, ght of W D g, k p of ghtho i s an s u n it set out in a small a in m an wh ch t d po , bo t co p y i her a er res ue the sur i rs the r ars ire w th f th to c v vo of Fo f h , a steamer which on its way from Hull to Dundee had been as e u n th a All o d h d po e H wker Rocks . the w rld knows of thi s intrepid action an d of the simple and retiri ng character of the brave girl who in achi eving it did what she hers elf felt — to be no more than her plain duty it is sufi cient to say here that those who wish to worship at the shrine of a modern sai nt will find her tomb in the churchyard at Bam r u ere it erl s the il a bo o gh, wh ov ook w d w ves over which she

er a s e s im p h p th mo t posing. It stands on a mighty rock of black basalt ; its walls and towers cover a vast area of ground ; its great keep is seen for many a long mile over sea and lan its er as e seen ro m ei er lan d v y p ct , f th d or sea, — back into his tory at Bamborough it is sai d that Agricola THE E N 224 NCHANTI G NORTH .

had a r ress ere it is er ain t a I a Kin fo t h ; c t h t d , g of r um ri a uil the firs as le ere in the si x en ur No th b , b t t c t h th c t y . From that time until 17 15 Bamborough looms huge in the hr ni les a le an l s e was es i e m c o c of b tt d b ood h d . It b ged ore — times than one can gi ve an accoun t of notably by Penda in the se en en ur illiam u us in 10 an v th c t y , by W R f 95 , d the a eren s of the hi e se in 1 6 at i ime by dh t W t Ro 4 3 , wh ch t it was so much knocked about that it was never afterwu ds use as a r ress u it fi ure in e risin s in su r d fo t , tho gh g d th g ppo t the Old re en er i ere ere lar l su r e of P t d , wh ch w h ge y ppo t d by i s t en ners the ors ers . as se r m em in th ow , F t It p d f o th to the an s r re e is x r se trus ees h d of Lo d C w , B hop of O fo d, who t s en lar am un s in res rin the uil in l u it p t ge o t to g b d g. A tho gh has now little of the pomp and ci rcumstance whi ch must a e surr un ed it in me ie val imes it is the fines h v o d d t , t m nu en an i n a ve wi o m t of t quity o the co st from Do r to Ber ck.

Just as no one should travel northward without seei ng the am e slan s so no on s ul ass ol slan or F I d , e ho d p H y I d ( in i wi ar L d sfarne ) thout spendi ng as much time as can be s p ed. can be reac e on or e icle r m eal and as It h d foot by v h f o B , it ossesses els ise l ill s a in it for at leas a p hot , w fo k w t y t ni o a ac i is or ght t see all th t remains of a place p ked w th h t y . ere in 6 ame i an a m n ona rea hi n H 34 c A d , o k of I , p c g ri s iani and ere he ui l the firs ru e urch i Ch t ty , h b t t d ch , wh ch developed into the great pri ory whose ruins still remain

erl in the sea. ere . u ert li e ile and ov ook g H St C thb v d , to d was buried here his relics were brought back at least once after the monks had carri ed them away in fear of the anes ere a er the rman n ues the enedi i nes D ; h , ft No Co q t, B ct set u on ei mall as the p e of th r most powerful houses . S islan is it con ains the ruins a a e a a edral and d , t of c stl , c th a ri r Its l are e i — ers an fis ermen p o y . fo k tru slanders farm d h

all i the s ur in n n rs the sea. , w th t dy depe de ce of dwelle by Here the artis t and the poet may indulge their fancies to the ulles ex en the one it i en il the er i f t t t, w h h s p c , oth w th his en. The mainlan i is rue i but ur miles a a p d , t t , s fo w y

CHAPTER III .

The Cheviots and the Tweed .

HE wild and mountai nous country on the north-west side of Northumberland is difficult of access by those who are dependent upon the railway trai n for getting to e n the lin hi rrms r m as le any given spot . B twee e w ch f o Newc t across the border to Hawick and that which connects ln i i th un i n at rnhill on th e ere A w ck w th e j ct o Co e Tw ed, th is a nsi era le rac lan almos en irel i en u co d b t t of d, t t y g v p to

ill m r ale and stream in i r inar b -roa s h , oo , d , wh ch even o d y y d f w r una el ere runs r th ear i s are e . Fo t t y th th ough e h t of th is ri the rea i r a r m tlan i r sses the d t ct g t h gh o d f o Sco d, wh ch c o i e n as er l an ai r ell and runs Chev ots b twee C t Fel d F wood F ,

u - ar s r ri e assin on its wa su so th east tow d Co b dg , p g y ch i es er Bremeni um the man histor c spots as Roch t , the of Ro u a i n d er urn the su se and enerall occ p t o , an Ott b , ppo d g y accepted site of the famous battle of Chevy Chase l r i e er is en irel e en en the so e histo y of wh ch , how v , t y d p d t i n in l no n al l upon the vers ion g ve the wel k w b lad. Fo k who can i u rail a s en can rea t ese la es do w tho t w y , th , ch h p c by al in or ri in a few miles and a i ad an a e a w k g d g , by t k ng v t g of CALLALY CASTLE . line of railway as far as Rothbury they may ex plore in the same fashion the dales and valleys and the high moor un the u er s re es the u lands which surro d pp t tch of Coq et . There is much of interest and much of natural beauty to is ri s but e are reser fo be seen in these d t ct , th y p ves r those

en n tates a certain amount of dura ce .

un r l in e ween ln i and els and The co t y y g b t A w ck K o,

an er i — ha is al n e n - between Kelso d B w ck t t , o g th orth eas tern edge of the Cheviots and along the most interesting stretch

In t is un r are si ua border river. h co t y t te d some of the

ler l en iel r am s le —and it is as ham, odd F d, No h C t . F a . Woo

n res ss ss s on the wes t of Aydo Fo t, po e e the remains of a d cas tle and the re u a i n avin een fine ol , p t t o of h g b the home

le en a allal as le es E lin am is a g d th t C y C t , w t of d gh , was

si ua i n and a h w by its pres ent t t o , th t e as deterred by spirits ’ ’ ’ who warned him to build it down i th sheph erd s ” au . here is n thin now remainin it but a w h gh T o g g of to er, which shows the original structure to have been a border f urteent - en ur o er fortres s . A o h c t y t w of the same sort of the last century one of the bes t ex amples of Sax on ec lesias i al arc ite t ure in En lan . was e c t c h c g d It th n, however,

ard of Whitti n ham in the valle of the Br a w g , y e mish , there R 228 THE ENCHANTING NO TH.

Near Hedgeley there are several places on each side of — stones set apart at a distance of nine yards is supposed mmem rate a um made Sir Ral to co o j p by ph Percy, just before he ex pired of a wound recei ved here during a brush is s and ancas ri ans i 1 between York t L t n 463 . Near it is a

ele ra s his dea - pillar whi ch also c b te th. To the north wes t of called the Ri is Roddam a manor i v the hill gg , g en to the

e remar a le for its rees and ers . e n den , k b t flow B yo d this point the land stretches away over wild country to the

e the e i s . On the er si e the line o edg of Ch v ot oth d of , g ing

the main body of the structure was built by the Pri or of

d it was at a ime es ile and so remain f it , an th t t d po d, ed or fi en it un erwen res ra ion nl fty years, wh d t to t , o y to relapse s s a e a ain i in the las c into a ruinou t t g w th t entury. It has n e m re res re and still m since been o c o to d, retai ns uch of

ax n and rman ar hi e ure . ere its S o No c t ct H , too, there is a fine ri e er the ill a n inua i n the Breamish b dg ov T ( co t t o of ) , s a cam on the i r un a e the trace of p h gh g o d bov the church, on e i M r a a e hi is elie e and, B w ck oo , c v w ch b v d to have r been the resort of Scottish f eebooters .

Il ert n a i n on the line ro m E i Westward of d o St t o , f dl ngham un i n are the two rin i al h i s to Comhill J ct o , p c p e ght of the

si the firs fee in e the s c on its south de ; t t h ight, e ond

mom to be prefm e d There are a good many inter-esting

THE !ENCHANTING NORTH .

rmi na i n a li ot with the boldnes s an d dete t o of on , and they n an ss an t in t a ex ci es t eir ur but only gore d to y h g h t t h f y, man le it man or eas i eir s . e urn ni g , b t, w th th hoof Th y t ght a ea in ni slee in da e l e into d y, t g by ght , p g by y ; th y ov

l an a r a to l se uar ers un n ernedl at ers al ow pp o ch c o q t co c y, oth a a at the soun a e they are off and w y d of foots t p. They in larl enaci us li e an d it was men i n in are s gu y t o of f , t o ed a most interes ting paper read before the 1838 meeting of the Bri tish Associ ation that on one occasion a bull whi ch it was necessary to kill received seven rifle shots through its head before falling .

Th rin ci al n is dis ri is ler not e p p tow of th t ct Woo , of an ea i ures ueness or in eres in i sel but a er y gr t p ct q t t t f, v y c ni en en re for seein the e i s hilli n am an d onve t c t g Ch v ot , C gh

-fi I the historic battle eld of Flodden . n the immediate vicinity of the town there are several places an d scenes of r n a l a u the e le ills ere ere is a inte est, ot b y bo t K tt H , wh th

- nn am a sacre ell i c in old im us well de ed c p, d w , wh h t es ed i arlan s on Ma Da an d a s ne all to be decked w th g d y y, to c ed ’ l r i l is i r a a l f r the King s Chair. Woo e tse f ch efly em rk b e o its an nual ai r an e en of su im r an e a th e f , v t ch po t c th t un r si e l a e eir in s r m it a e er a ens co t y d fo k d t th do g f o , wh t v h pp in so l n fr m or so lon l r a be g o g o g to Woo e F ir.

The am us a le -field l en lies n r ar ten f o b tt of F odd o thw d , miles r m ler on the r a lea in l and f o Woo , o d d g to Co dstream an Th es en r Scotl d . e b t c tre f om whence to visit the various s ra e i al in s is ranx n a illa e acin a ill t t g c po t B to , v g f g h to hi it i es its name an d e in i is l en ill w ch g v , b h d wh ch F odd H e k ov rloo ing Flodden village . Round about Branx ton the fi was fier es and in its ur ar and the imm ia e ght c t, ch chy d ed t an i vicinity large qu tit es of human bones have been unearthed . The battle was always spoken of as the Battle of Bran x ton the En li s l en the is r es hi by g h, of F odd by Scott h fo c , w ch ere rawn on l E w d up F odden dge . How many men perished in is the la an os an th , st d m t import t of the old border E FLODD N . 231

s s n t er lear. in ames . en he rosse battle , i o v y c K g J IV , wh c d the ee on u us 2 rd 1 1 had un er hi s mman Tw d A g t 3 , 5 3 , d co d a un re usan n but e em er an army of h d d tho d me , by S pt b th the da the a le a nsi era le num er hi s 9 , y of b tt , co d b b of ll had eser e and the a ual fi in r e i fo owers d t d, ct ght g fo c wh ch took the field under his banner probably did not ex ceed

ir usan . The En lis r es un er the Earl urre th ty tho d g h fo c , d of S y, ere a u ual in s ren but ile the En lis loss is w bo t eq t gth, wh g h a ve an the i s l ies are set computed t fi thous d , Scott h casua t l a a an a down at more than doub e th t amount . Sc rcely y m n n eri s on the En li s si e but the er t e of ote p hed g h d , flow of h i ili was l on the fiel am s t eir sl in Scott sh nob ty eft d , ong t h a ein the in imsel an ar is and two is s b g K g h f, chb hop b hop , l n an d C ie ain um remains with over thirty nob eme h ft s . H an n un all er the s ene the en un er hi have bee fo d ov c of co t , w ch duri ng the short and sharp period that it lasted was at ’ i fi r es a u the eminen e alle i ers ill near ts e c t bo t c c d P p H ,

ran x n ere in ames is sai a e fallen . B to , wh K g J d to h v

es the i s ri a le- field and in l se r x imi W t of h to c b tt , c o p o ty er i l a ri u ar the ee i is well to the Riv T l , t b t y of Tw d wh ch

r x in is r a i ures uel -si uate illa e wo th e plor g , Fo d , p ct q y t d v g

-fi an th r r fine c un r was the battle eld d e sur ounding ve y o t y ,

es became one of the most important of the border fortress . l th e e war are and was m re an It was frequent y e sc n of f , o th

er ames . lan made once almost destroyed . H e J IV of Scot d e the fi at Fl en an d it is sai hi s headquarters b fore ght odd , d

’ husband was at that time one of James s prisoners in

ex is en e and is urnis e i a se re s ai r. In the t c , f h d w th c t t vi llage school of Ford there is a remarkable series of mural aintin s illus ra i e the li es ildren and no p g , t t v of v of good ch , t . E A 232 TH ENCH NTING NORTH .

children served as models for the artist. Nort h of Ford lies an er i ures ue lace E al i a ruine as l oth p ct q p , t , w th d c t e, h ain and a l t e rem s of an ancient ch apel ho y well. In all the country hereabouts the ruins of peel towers an d fortified — houses are frequently met with silent but eloquent witn esses a a a nl i to the s v gery of the d ys when o y m ght was right .

i ini ar and l s re am on t e En lis an d o ch v c ty of W k Co d t , h g h Sc t banks of the Tweed respecti vely . There is little left of

Wark Castle , once one of the most important of the border s n l s but it has re rds and as so i a ions no an tro gho d , co c t of me r er for it was es ie ed o tis in a ers no l an o d , b g by Sc t h v d ess th

E and it was within its walls that dward III. picked up ’ r s ar er wi the am us remar Honi soil Lady Salisbu y g t , th f o k

' qus mat y pause. Most of the other castles in this neigh — bourhood are but fragments there is scarcely anythi ng left s to nh The ri r scener erea u of those of He n or Cor ill. ve y h bo ts is eli ul and no one i si s the di s ri s ul mi d ghtf , who v t t ct ho d o t to cross the fine bridge over the Tweed whi ch connects

ere eneral n 1 m in 6 . arha ere h h by G Mo k 5 9 At C , wh t ere was n e a reli i us use ri inall m o c g o ho , o g y founded by onks

one comes

the n r -wes t ex remi um erlan an to o th t ty of North b d, d of

En lan . But ein so n ar t i w ul be a i if g d b g e to i , t o d p ty

the rt was at s l and here ma be v No h choo , y seen se eral of the ra es his rela i In the e els g v of t ves. Abb y of K o, now.

THE E I 234 NCHANT NG NORTH .

wa r a d erei w s ove , n wh n at one time as treasured the stone i i i boat n wh ch St. Cuthbert is sa d to have sailed down the ri r M ver f om elrose Abbey.

r u n l m i e in Mam ni on are the At Twizel, f eq e t y ent on d , — ruins of a castle whi ch was begun in 177o a somewhat late a e on ul a e u for uil in r resses on d t , e wo d h v tho ght, b d g fo t

nsi era le but are no in eres in as the er fine co d b , t so t t g v y er the o rt Tillmouth ar hi h bridge ov Till n the no h of P k, w c is notewort hy for the fact that it is one of the very few — bridges known to have been built by a woman in this a a em e amil who ause its c se by m ber of th Selby f y, c d i ix n r rms a arti ularl erect on in the s tee th centu y. It fo p c y

r - x over fo ty si feet in height .

At Norham one comes in touch once more with Sir few lines of Marmi an

' Da set on Norhs m s astle stee y c d p . ’ And Twee s fai r ri ver roa and ee d , b d d p. ’ And Chevi ot s moun tai n lone : The affle towers th e on on kee b d , d j p. Th e loo hole rates where ca ti ves wee p g , p p, The flankin walls that roun it swee g d p, " n ell w l t I y o us re sh one .

r am astle hi ere is n w li tle m re remainin No h C , of w ch th o t o g an the massi e s uare ee a rea ile masonr th v q k p, g t p of y i a a o e the ri er was uil Ral wh ch crowns hill b v v , b t by ph lam in 1121 nl be ar l em li s e the F bard, , o y to p t y d o h d by

Scots seventeen years later. Like all border fortresses , it e he c s and it was the scene was frequently besi ged by t S ot , of more than one meeting between the Scottish and Engli sh i n r i r uen c n erre i sovere g s . He e K ng John f eq tly o f d w th William the Lion of Scotlan d here Edward I held parley with the Scottish nobles in respect of his claims to the

hrone . uen l lun er the c ts Scottish t It was freq t y p d ed by S o ,

EN I 236 THE CHANT NG NORTH .

u on Marmi n la in li erin arm ur and wearin Where p o , c d g tt g o g l elm ashe a ai ns the men-at -arms the i the go d h , d d g t , wh ch s on an en un rse layd sore stripe him d ev tually ho d him. Gray and his garri son then pricked in to the rescue and n his rse a ai n a er i he and he set Marmio on ho g , ft wh ch t y gave the Scots such a trouncing that many men were slai n ha e la and fifty horses taken . W t th dy of the gold helm

sa all is we r es not a ear . had to y to th , ho ve , do pp One of the most stri kingly situated towns in the three oms erwi -u n- ee is as in erestin as it is kingd , B ck po Tw d t g

n has ui a i r . picturesque . No other tow q te such h sto y For n ries it neit el n e En lan nor o lan ce tu her b o g d to g d to Sc t d, and as a matter of consequence Scots an d English were always

fi tin for it r in it . ri l S eakin it is nei er in gh g o St ct y p g, th En lan or c lan now but is a own and coun g d n S ot d , t ty of i l an is erre in ll al roclama i ons but tse f, d so ref d to a Roy p t , E i n has n in it is subj ect to nglish law . Its p cturesque ess oth g mere re iness a u it it is a re s me a aun of p tt bo t g y, o wh t g t wn not a in rt in its re alen to , unlike Conw y No h Wales p v t r m ri ere crosses t colour. F o the old Border b dge whi ch h he eed at his oin nsi era le i one l s on Tw , t p t of co d b w dth, ook re ro s re walls th r ram ar s i en e the g y of , g y , e g ey p t wh ch f c

old n in and on the re rt Sea u side its ar ur. tow , g y No h o t h bo T a m s ere the r r i he t o ph of No th is all ove t .

' Where the railway station stan ds now once stood the ’ as le hi was the cen re r i e val li and c t , w ch t of Be w ck s medi fe , close by it is a ruined tower whereon in the old days of maraudings an d sudden assaults a watch-fire would suddenly gleam fort h to inform the people far and near that the ai n Th all Scots were over the border ag . e great h of the a a la rms In it cas tle w s ex actly where the railw y p tfo are . E ward in 12 2 a e his e isi n in a ur ali l d L , 9 , g v d c o f vo of B o , when called upon to adjudicate upon the ri val clai ms of

ali l an ru e . Lon e re a e er n and B o d B c g b fo th t, how v , tow w im r an castle ere of considerable po t ce . It is probable that there was some sort of stronghold here from very early - - E BERWICK UPON TWE D . 237

a wa a la a too gre t to be neglected . It s p ce of import n ce in the el en ur an d had at ha ima se eral reli i u tw fth c t y, t t t v g o s

uses a ur h s within its un aries . a i in ho nd ch c e bo d D v d, K g of c lan c ns an l resi e in it a e lar el S ot d, who o t t y d d , dd d g y to a castle which is supposed to have been built by his ancestor ennet his ran son Mal lm stren t ene th K h ; g d , co IV g h d e a in n Eliza ga during the reign of Quee beth.

er a uc an e ause her adheren H e L dy B h , b c of cy to the Bruce

to the as le urre E ar . ere in 1 p of c t t t by dw d I H , 323, a m e a ea i w Edward II . nd Bruce ad tr ty wh ch as sealed by ’ ’ the marri age of the King s sister to Bruce s son. Here on the old ri e in 1 ere ex ose on a i e b dg , 304 , w p d g bb t the remains the rea illiam alla e. ere in 1 a of g t W W c H , 377, few stalwart Scots took the cas tle by surpri se and held it for v r a a ai an arm a o e week g nst y of ten thous nd English . And ere the s ns Sir lex an er e on h two o of A d S t , governor ’ the as le ere an e e re t eir a her s e es of c t , w h g d b fo h f t y by

’ upon the father for the latt er s stern refusal to give up the ’ - ke s . In the r use at ee m ut r ic s y poo ho Tw d o h, Be w k southern su ur acr the ri er are s ulls i a b b, oss v , two k wh ch h ve always een el be th two la s us b h d to those of e d th done to death . be particularised in circumscri bed limi ts ; that they were so many is eloquent of the estimation in which the place was el as a an a e een c lan an h d point of v t ge b tw S ot d d Englan d. an end wi am I th En lis th the accession of J es . to e g h throne . He ma in his s a e entr in En lan er comman , k g t t y to g d h e , ded eace al n the r er a e r ers for the em li i n p o g Bo d , g v o d d o t o of all stron l s hi re not ri ate h us s an u gho d w ch we p v o e , d bro ght E 238 THE NCHANTING NORTH . d r nmn rmm mum: mr t = TWufl 1m TMwe l r mgfl . mmq m m

THE END.

I APPEND X.

ASTLES AND TOWERS—C n d C onti ue .

OrLe ro CAST E 1 th n r B i uil a r ax . L 4 Ce tu y. t by F f Han woon AS LE r th omi ll C T 4 R e. H m 2 s Ln s CASTLE 1 th De Ro os . Knam nonoo rr asTLs 1 H nr o C 4th e y I . Mans i on wn To s , Tax man : Mrnnu rm r ase Fit z- Ranul C ph.

N orm ans Towns , Rox m Prcx s nrrso Cu m Pours m cr Cas TLs D e Lacy.

c rn sort n CasrLs Alan Rufus . Sari na CasTLs Scm onoo o n CaerLs

Earl of Albemarle . Sas aru Horrors Cas e Sam oa CASTLE SNAP: CasTLx Srom nTH CASTLE Trcx HrLL Casm WHORLTON CasTLx Was ss L Cu m

CHURCHES.

1. SAXON. Ss a .

Srnumrno nrtn. ALnnox ooon.

ST. Dams You Ki n- ALE , . ’ ST. MA RGARBT S , You . Krnx Harn nnrro u.

‘ Tnonrs SALVIN . e p wrrn. W N HORLTO . ii M N NOR AN . T AL . TRANSI IO .

Anx s s v.

Aw e . F e v.

K mrcnur m. r Ras a r . ’ Ma s ann nouc n ST. n . Sc o . W nv u o .

EA Y EN L SH . iv. RL G I

Am ounnunv.

Aunu rro nr n .

Brua c TON .

GO Lnsnono uc H. HAUX E L W L.

Han an .

He ss utv . mmconn uo rr H o . m Ho un ar v.

Kuannsnoaoucn .

Nun Monx rou. 2 1 APPENDIX . 4

~ ° CHURCHES Contsnus d. — Wm i v. E ARLY Ex cu s e Con .

c e .

vi PERPEND ULAR . . IC

- - L N BOLTON BY BO LA D . F v BOLTON c . A BR DF ORD .

BRAm rtTON .

CATTnc x .

Cow Ln . v. DE ORATED . C r Ec ns rrnLn .

Groo m wrcx . r DA rrrra . HALIPAX . w DAnTON . HA Rn oon .

h m o nouon . Ka wrcrt . HOLY Trumrv HU LL Kr x nv MA LHA N , . R . m R RR A N Hownr . OTH H .

LKLEY rrON . I . e - Marm ax . SOUTH SrrrRLAU o n.

Sp o n ORTn . ’ ST . MA RTrN s , YORH. N R - - a PATRIN GTO . ST. MrcrrA L Lx B m nv ,

Pnrrrsr ona . YORR . ’ c rn ronn . ST. Pm R s , Snaa n . Rr m T e r . AncAs . r Rox s rou. TA N rrnLn .

Snx nrn HU TTON . THrRs x .

Se aro na . Trcx HrLL. ’ MAnv s ava W r HrR ST. , B na . H T x . N W nAn THOR HILL . a sT .

IV LD OUNTRY EAT AND NOTABLE HO SES. . O C S S U

MA U La x rs H ALLE RTON vnnx n, HAc ns s ALL,

W nanav aouc n . ar . Scumo n As rm HALL, c nrsonn . HAnx woo Hous s , Y N rs rr rro ap x ori k . ARTHIN GTO . B uo ,

OLTON HA LL Ora an . HAzw oon CAsTLn B , , r Bowmuo CAs TLn , Bu nro nn . DRI m v As TLn U RTON Ac ross FFIELD . Ho C B , , ‘ U RTON ON STA LE HU LL. NORTHALLBRTON . B C B , N Towne s SN AITH HovrrrcHArs PAax MALT N ARLTO . O C , , . A MAL ON ows nAn HALL MAL N ASTLE How nn T . H TO . C , , A D N CAS T Krn ALL HALL Tnorman USWORTH H LL O ER . n . C , , D Krm nATnAu HALL BNTON HALL , ILa v . , D rr n s u rv U corsn PARK , Hne . A x x m as PAnx Mrm aLn Es caroz F n , Yon . Kra , . m HALL as TLarr EVE Rl N GHA I , Lnnsror , C o nn . W c x nnsn nOUon PArur MArurnT aro rrror . Lo o W , F L LE MAnx x T arc nrou. ARNLEY HAL , OT Y . LL MArtn a n HALL Rrrou GO Lnsnortouon HA , , .

KN Au snoaOU oH . MAns x rr HALL, SALTnUnN . E APP NDIX .

D R SEAT et c OL COUNT Y S .

MaTnLav PARx , Larrns . SPROTBOROUGH HALL,

N I N as . a LnTO Lonc s , La v. DO c TnR ULe W T urus N s ws Au La M RAvn CAs TLn , arm . a , nns .

a s o c Parc av, Cox woLn . THRva cH PARx ,

m an“ . NORTON o mmas RI ON . Ro C , P r W N W r W . ALTO HALL Nos Tx LL PRrORv, Ax rrrra , Au rrl a . N UN A LETON WENT ORTH CAs TLx PP , W , N -mam OLTO Pc v Suns . B . s TON Wa v W N TWORTH W n Rm HALL, m rta . a oon ousx ,

RrDDm N HA LL, Knrs nunr. ROTHRRHAN . m AS TLE RI W TON HALL Rrp LEY . ES OTe v C , P , . m v W v x Ro PARx , HrTe B AUrrONT, B RN D C HUDDRRs rrr A AR As TLn. a . W n o rnr SHANDY HALL, Cox woLn . oo s HALL, N n r 8 113 a HU TTO , YORK . HUnn Rs rrnLD . : W TLEY Sumne r HALL, HALIF AX . OR HALL . Snnm s Ln . Wm A N n H Ann v, AR SC BOROU GH .

REL O HOUSES now in Ru ns V. IGI US , i .

i AU UST N AN . . G I I

Ali ce de Romill 1 e, 15 3 . GorsnOROUon Ro ert de Bros 1 r1 b , 9 . KTRRHAN Walt er Es p ec, rrzr.

i ENEDICT NE . i . B I 8 1:a Hu h de Lac r 6 g y, o 9 . MARc x Ro er de Ask e Tem . Hen. 11 g , p . ’ ST . MA Rv s YORR Alan Earl of Ri chmond 8 , , , 107 . W rav ar St . Hilda 6 , 5 7 .

i ARTHUS AN . i i . C I

MOUNT GRAOR Thomas Earl of Ken , t , 139 7 .

STERC AN . i v. CI I Ro er de Mow ra x x g b y, 77 FOUNTArNs Th urston Arch i sho of York , b p , 1 1 32 . onan Earl of Ri chmond C , , 1 1 56 Henr de Lac r r 2 y y , 5 . William l Gro e s , Earl of Al m rl e a e r r 0 . b , 5 Walter Es ec r r 2 p . 3 . Ri ch ard de Busli and Ri chard Fitz-Tur 1 14 7 . SAWa William de 1 m y, 1 47 .

v. CLUNIAC.

MON : B anTTON Adam Fit z-Swain 1 1 . 5 7 .

E APP NDIX .

HUR H — n C C ES C onti ued.

vi PE RP R. . ENDICULA m B x rrrm . c CO Nrs c m .

- - HOUGHTON LE S RIN G . STAIND RO P P. Tan Krm rrm Hos p rrAL ,

DURHA N .

OLD Y S AND NOT B HO S O EATS A LE US . IV. C UNTR E

LA BTON AS TLE M C .

AS TLE EDEN RAvnNs RTH ASTLE . C . C

ELnrs A MAN OR Hous e . ORn. STELL

GArNrO MAN HO TH RN ON HALL. RD OR U SE . O T

Gn aw WA TH . n. LwOR Gas Te

O WIND ON E As . H RDEN HALL. LEST G re HOU GE TON- LB -S RING P .

REL OUS HO S now in R n V. IGI USE , ui s .

FIN CHALE Paroav foun e b Henr Pudse astar son of Hu h , d d y y y (b d g

Pu se i sho of Durham 1 1 6 . d y, B p ) , 9 ENE NE B DICTI .

ARRow S enedi ct t. B Ow s A RN OUTR S Bene i ct t . d

WE STMORLAN D AN D CUMB ERLAN D .

ANT U T ES I. IQ I I .

- i . PRE H STORI M KD RE A NS . HARDKN OT A M ES ALE . I C I C P, Ta x n Co c STON ES , N EAR

PA CASTLE Cocn RN OUTn . P , ULs ATnR. Pu mm u Pm‘mrm L N ' HE TO CO PSTON E , N EAR

STANwrx ARLISLE . um , C p n m . LON G Mac AND HE R

DAU GHTnRs N EAR PEN RITH. AN EN T ROSSES , CI C . MAYBOROU GH N EAR PRN R1TH , . B cx n m a a .

BEWCASTLE . ri . ROMAN REMA NS I . DEm .

Be wcas . G m OSFORTH .

Bo anos wALn . N IRTO . - - B U Ro n ON SAa . MUN As r RR C .

. ASTLES AND TOWE II C RS. i W . M D IN EST ORLAN .

Ar u aav. ROU GH B .

B ROUGHA N . HARTm . E APP NDIX . 245

ASTLES AND W S— n d C TO ER Conti ue .

11. IN MB CU ERLAND .

BEwcAs rLE .

CARL18 LE .

Cocx rrRrsOUTH .

CH H III. URC ES.

BU R H- ON - N S F c SA D ( ortified). N E TON - A SH rLLO H GREA S E F RLO S T T ALE LD orti ed . W , ( fi ) (Forti fied ) .

N AND NOTABLE HO IV. OLD COU TRY SEATS USES.

i M D . IN UM ERL . IN ii C AND . WEST ORLAN . B

U AL ARN ATHWArTE HALL. BRO GHAM H L.

D L TO ER COREY A STLE . AL A N W . C

LE VE N S HAL . ROFTON HALL L C .

T LE EDEN HALL. LOW HER CAS T .

GREYSTOEE AS TLE . STO RRs HALL. l C WRAY LE MuN cASTER ASTLE CAS T . C .

N ETHEREY .

ROSE CASTLE .

REL O HOU V. IGI US SES.

i . A G STI AN . n U U NI CISTERCIAN .

LAN ERcOST PRrORY founde ALD ER AEE EY found , d C , ed by

b Ro ert de Vallib us 1 16 . Randol h de Meschi nes r 1 y b , 9 p . 34 FU RN ESS AEEEY founde b S h te en 1 12 . d y p , 7

N RTH MB O U ERLAN D .

. ANT U I IQ ITIES.

RIT SH . ii M . R B I O AN .

BEwrcx . CHOLLE RTORD .

ELsnON .

GREAvEs ES E .

Rre OHArs.

MOR ETH . RocH P s s TER.

STAN YORDHAH . THE MArDEN W AY .

THRE E STON E U RN . THE RO B N AN WALL.

WA RN . TH W E RE E EN DY EE .

. CASTLES AND TO II WERS.

ent ur . uilt b de Yeset and Perc C y B y y. 13 6t h Ida rst , fi Sax on King o f Northumbria. 2 N 46 APPE DIX .

ELS AY 1 h Bu B 5t Ce nt ury . ilt by John de 14th Robu t 1 sth Ca LrN S HAu 12th~13th

Cq s Y Towns 14th

Pow 13th Sir William Heron . HALTON CASTLE 13th HAU OHTON 1 3th Hm nRN Towns MrTTORD 12th 12 NEWCASTLE th Henry II . REAM 12t Ral h Flam NO h p bard. OGLE 14th PRUDHOE 14th - WARE WORTH 12th 14th The Percys .

H RCH III. C U ES.

ii . NO M R AN .

BRra U RN .

R RID E Rocx . CO B G . R T Rom m w. HEx HAu C YP . Wa Nc Au WAK WORTH. rm H .

iii . PERPE I R ND CULA .

SEATS

Hu m a ns . ME D N L O .

Morrwrcx . W NETHER ITTON .

SEATON DELAVAL.

TwrzEL. W ' Howrcrr. ALu N c rON .

S HO V. RELIGIOU USES.

A UST N AN . i . UG I I

1 Bertram, 2th cent ury.

'

BENED CT NE . ii . I I

Han n a foun W l h 660 -foun d for A s nian e b St . i fri t re e u u ti , d d y , ; d g anons b Thomas IL Arch isho C y , b p

of Yor 1 11 . k. 3

Index .

Brough

Atkinson anon , C Auckland Castle Aught on Aydon Castle Ays gart h Callaly Castle

Bamborough Castle Barden Tower

Cawood

Bewcastle Bewerley Hall

Chi pchase

Bolton Castle Coldstrearn o uet slan 29 C q I d or ri e B ton ast le arrisone for C b dg ol C , G d Charles

Bolton Priory

Drunken Barnaby 37 1 5 2 Cresswell 230 INDEX.

D

Danby-in-Cleveland Gs wthorp e Hall 2 2 3 Gilslan d . 127

w Der ent , the 97

7 !

' Great Alms Cllfl Dunstanb orough Castle 22 1 Durham 148 1 50

Grinto n

37 Guyzance 100 r72 227

wa at Wor k astle 2 2 Ed rd III . C 3 134

9 5

Hedon

Helmsley

Hex ham

Horne Island

Flamborough Head Howard, Lord Wllli am

2 2 3 INDEX.

Raby Castle 137 Skelton Cas tle Ravenscsr 1 16 Smi th S ne at Foston , yd y , 13 le- Clay 103 Ribston Hall 49 10 7 33 St aindrop Church 138 39 1 19 10 3 the Lion Ki n of Scot , g 1 54 S uth Is t . C bert at Holy land

of Bri ttany imprisoned 1“ 4° Sterne , Laurence Ri chmon astle Le en of d C , g d St evenson ohn Hall , J 4 1 Ri evaulx Abbey 7 5 5 5 ’ Ri le romwell s visi t t o 6 p y, C 5 9 1 1

El n Pri vile es of Ta caster , g d ctuary granted 13 Tanfield Ri on Th e Di eu I 3 p , Target Ri on Aile Hill 1 p . y 3 Thi rsk Thornton-lo- Street 1 3 ’ Robi n Lythe s Hole 1 1 1 ’ Robin Hood s Bay 1 16 Roddam 3 2 8 132 14 1 ' T o a Rombald s Moor owt n, B tt le of

Runswick

Unthank

Walbott le Selby Abbey Ward of Howden ) Semmerwater INDEX . 25 3

York Charles . sold to the , I Scots at

York oronati on of , C

Edward IV . t Wensleydale Y rk E war III marri e o d d . Wa t erdale Moor , d Phili a f Hai naul pp o t at . Wel t Hart lepool York Fli ht of Ro alist , g y Army aft er Marston Moor Weth eral to Weth er by York Henr . recei ves , y II W r on Mar aret ha t , g

York St . Paulinus lai Whi tby . d foundati on of li ttle Whi telifl e Scar hurch at Whi t estone Clifl C Whitfield Force

’ Willancee s Leap

Wi th erns ea

Wi tt on -lo- Wear Wolsi ngh am Wooler

th e Lak e

Wressle Castle

W clifl e ohn y , J