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the edition IMAGES: GETTY. COVER: GETTY Wigram-Evans Ben Murray, NickRutherford, Sub-editors: ChrisHorton, Josephine Price Editors: EmmaHolland, Editorial director: MariaPieri Email: [email protected] Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909 Email: [email protected] Editorial T: 020 7253 9906 aplmedia.co.uk , NW51TL Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, APL Media,Unit310, Highgate Media Limited. Edition ispublishedby APL Two CitiesOneBreak: The Food Editor Holland Emma beyond. and cities two the within happening what’s at alook take we as for ataste on for Read . Israeli unique incredibly the discover to opportunities endless there’s chefs, local passionate with markets food lively of tours to beach, the shakshuka of skillets tasty From scene. food innovative and young its and influences, cultural diverse Israel’s of speak that hotspots foodie and dishes experimental find — you’ll deserts and hills surrounding the in —and Tel and both In Aviv Jewish. and Persian ancient to Yemenite, and Tunisian from nationalities, and traditions cultures, of pot melting vibrant its reflecting tastes and flavours blend of exciting up an serves Israel welcome citiesbreak.com for by breakfast for is contained inthemagazine. acting onany information which seek professional advice before publisher. Readers are advisedto are notnecessarily thoseofthe therefrom. The views expressed responsibility intheeffect arising but thepublishers assume no the contents ofthemagazine, Every care istaken incompiling prior permission isforbidden. reserved. Reproduction without copyright 2017 andallrights are contents are protected by Printed intheUK.The entire Danielle Humphrey Lead designer: Group arteditor: ChrisHudson

30 34 24 28 32 14 16 18 4 8 in Israel andwhere to dine The riseofveganism REVOLUTION VEGAN THE Where to stay andmore ESSENTIALS Israeli-style restaurants intheUK ISRAEL OF A TASTE in thedesert An exploration offood scenes CITIES THE BEYOND Tastes onthestreet STREET EATS Where to gofor thebest DAY THE START RIGHT and localinsights City overview, itinerary AVIV TEL and anA-Z guide An overview ofIsraeli cuisine, JUST FOR STARTERS and localinsights City overview, itinerary JERUSALEM the wineriesofJudeanHills Between thecities,we explore JUDEAN Break One Two Cities Four disheswitha twist to recreate PULL-OUT! at home

3 There’s no better way to digest the local culture than to consume Just for it. Sarah Barrell explains why she starters has a growing appetite for Israel

Like the country itself, Israel’s becoming a ‘go-to’ in the food culture is young but its roots same vein as . go back to the Old Testament Originally adopted as the and beyond. And while chefs unofficial Israeli , such as have hummus suits Jewish , thrown modern or kosher, laws — religious into the UK media spotlight, its rules that deal with eating and ingredients, flavours and food- food preparation. And as this for-life attitude remain well and dip complements truly grounded. everything from vegetarian to This is a cuisine of earth and and dishes, it has sea, which reflects the ever- become a staple. evolving ethnic mix that defines While visitors to used Vegetarian food traditionally tours and courses this remarkably diverse nation. to hit the beach and tour the proliferates, with plant-based have become an integral part Moroccan, Libyan, Tunisian art deco district, now they go in dishes rich in their simplicity of an Israeli experience, with and Algerian flavours are search of the latest pop-up pitta and vegan food currently on travellers making pilgrimages complemented by their Middle hotspot and kitsch the rise. With Israel home to to its culinary corners, such as Eastern and African neighbours, shop. Culinary walking the world’s highest percentage the Galilee cooking school at the with dishes from , tours are popular with companies of vegans (even the army offers home of celebrated baker and , , ancient Persia such as Delicious Israel, whose vegan-friendly menus), there’s an , Erez Komarovsky. and Ethiopia as common as celebrated ‘hummus crawls’ take abundance of places to check out Food shapes Israel’s landscape those that draw on the bedrock groups off-the-beaten track to with vegan Georgian, Ethiopian from city to sea. Head to Tel Jewish food traditions of Eastern literally taste Israeli culture. and places just some of the Aviv’s Carmel Market to see and . From sun-ripe Mediterranean more diverse choices in both Tel everyone from old farmers There has been no lack of to locally caught Aviv and Jerusalem. to young entrepreneurs side- ambitious celebrity chefs star- crustaceans, fragrant These days every young chef by-side in a trade as old as studding the country’s gathered from biblical hillsides to is tapping into a rich heritage in civilised human existence. scene in the last five to 10 years. the pulses that form staples such which tradition and religion are The banner above the stand Among them are seafood master as and hummus, food here intertwined with food. at purveyors Olia says it Uri Jeremias, and the venerable is fresh, tasty and simple. Yet A dish that’s firmly at all — ‘sex, drugs and ’ Meir Adoni known for his New it’s taken generations to perfect the heart of these old-food — a sentiment served up with a York and Tel Aviv restaurants. such delicacies as the soft and traditions is the Sabbath , playful panache and passion that Israeli food is firmly making salty bulgarit (), referred to . The only hot food of can only be Israeli. its name on the international simply as ‘white ’; equally the day, served as the Sabbath food stage. In the last couple of so, a skillet of punchy shakshuka midday . This dish is having years, the best restaurants in (eggs in a spicy ) or a a renaissance in all manner London (The Palomar) and New sweet pillow of . of restaurants across Israel, York City (Timna) were both Israeli, according to GQ and USA Today, respectively. These days every young chef is tapping But for many foodies, the draw Clockwise from above: into a rich heritage in which tradition hummus dishes; Carmel is, arguably, at the more informal

Market, Tel Aviv end of the dining spectrum. IMAGES: GETTY; SUPERSTOCK and religion are intertwined with food

4 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 5 Key Israeli ingredients, and QUEUES VINE LEAVES favourite drinks to help you a Made with ground or It’s not just Brits that love a Usually stuffed with a-z feel for the local produce , this queue. Long lines of people rice, you’ll find these in is stuffed with meat and can be seen outside the many a mezze, alongside poached in . best vendors. and other Middle Eastern dishes. LIMONANA Limon and for ‘little WATERMELON nana (mint) are twists of The nation’s mixed together with sweet summer and ice to create a things’, is found Similar to Greek Hebrew for ‘citron’, this refreshing lemonade. these everywhere , this clear is a rare citrus fruit that during the -flavoured resembles a but has MALABI are hot months, distilled alcoholic a coarser skin, and is used A -based, creamy usually and is drink is best in the festival of . pudding which is similar filled with perfect to mixed with to blancmange and . cool you water or FALAFEL flavoured with water. down. fruit juice. Fried chickpea balls, High-quality often served in pitta with NEGEV BREWERY Iraqi introduced this X-FACTOR grapevines hummus and , or Based in the southern city popular recipe of fried You won’t find the letter are key to on their own; they are of Kiryat Gat, this was aubergine and egg with X in the Israeli alphabet, producing beloved across the one of the country’s first hummus, , salad and but the X-factor behind good arak. . independent , wrapped in a pitta. Israeli food is freshness. breweries. BUREKAS GOLDSTAR TAHINI YOTAM OTTOLENGHI Filled with fresh cheese, This local pale brew is, This is widely Renowned Israeli chef potatoes or , alongside Maccabee, a used, whether who owns restaurants in these triangle-shaped cheaper option than in a pitta London and co-wrote the puff pastries make for a imported . filled with cookbook Jerusalem. delicious snack. Burekas falafel or were introduced to Israel meat, diluted ZA’ATAR from the . Made of ground with lemon juice A mix of , sesame seeds and , OLIVE TREES as a dressing, or as a dip. marjoram, sage, and served plain, or with Some of the country’s a local , hyssop, that’s , chocolate olive trees date back more URI JEREMIAS often sprinkled on . CHALLAH or . than 1,000 years. Olive oil Famous chef with a The smell of this freshly is a staple in the local diet. legendary seafood baked braided bread restaurant, Uri Buri, and wafts through the air Coffee kiosks are hotel in the northern on Fridays on the everywhere. Starbucks One of the many coastal city of Akko. Jewish . fans, however, won’t find you’ll get totally hooked a single Israeli outlet. on in Israel — it’s often juiced at street stalls. DID YOU KNOW? A rolled , cooked During the Jewish holiday of Pesach or DOMAINE DU CASTEL overnight for around 10 , restaurants and grocers change This family-run winery in hours, and typically their menus and stock, to avoid serving the Jerusalem corridor served with tomatoes, any leavened goods. Expect bread and has made a big name eggs and a spicy sauce. made of , corn and maize for itself producing top- A popular dish on , and many -based recipes during quality wine. Above: stuffed vine leaves ALAMY GETTY; IMAGES: Shabbat mornings. the seven-day holiday

6 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 7 Discover just what’s luring in the hungry Tel travellers in this coastal city and how Aviv best to explore it

From cool, cosmopolitan Neve Tzedek to colourful ancient Jaffa, Tel Aviv’s cuisine runs the gamut of . There’s Med- fusion dining with sea views, buzzing beach bars, and earthy old restaurants that have refined Middle Eastern classics, plus boho joints that double as bars and gig spaces. Tel Aviv is known as an innovative culinary destination, but don’t forget some of the best food is the simplest. Try bureka, a national favourite consisting of flaky pastries filled with cheese, potatoes, mushrooms or greens, or Yemeni that really hit the spot for a comfort meal. Check out Israeli star chef Eyal Shani’s Miznon, in several locations, offering flavour- packed dishes such as tender slow-cooked meats dressed in tomatoes and tahini, and his signature crispy cauliflower — make sure to arrive hungry.

TO TASTE: FALAFEL COCKTAIL HOUR CHILL OUT Make sure to sample one of As the sun starts to set, locals Beneath Israel’s sizzling Israel's most famous street foods. are spoilt for choice. At Bar 223, sunshine, an ice cream is the This delicious Israeli classic is fresh flavours such as a delicious sweetest way to cool down. Head served with , concoction of , , to Anita in Neve Tzedek — the hummus or and passion fruit, self-styled Mamma del Gelato stuffed in pitta can be enjoyed along with the — for a mouthwatering array bread, and is New York-style vibes. Whisky of frozen treats, from chocolate traditionally enthusiasts can visit the new and dairy-free made with Milk and Honey Distillery to ,

spices, herbs ALAMY GETTY; IMAGES: — with rows of casks holding and soak up the atmosphere with and . litres of the golden stuff. a stroll around the leafy streets.

8 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 9 10 10 grilled vegetables. grilled of full theirs packs Ochel Bar at team the while , and falafel warm with them fills meanwhile, Hakosem, . golden and salad fresh hummus, creamy —with serves Zion Etzel thing only the They’re city. the in corner street every on almost sold are and move on the when snack perfect the are pittas stuffed delicious, and cheap Quick, POWER PITTA meats. cured and , gourmet with deli traditional and awell-reputed Raphael, Chaim to head to sure make and spices, and fruit nuts, of aisles the Browse here. found be can world the over all from cuisine restaurants, and stalls of Aviv. aplethora Home to Tel south in Market Levinsky celebrated the at containers their from burst almost to seem produce of Mounds FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD Two Cities One Break One Two Cities Neve Tzedek; falafel stall trader sellingspices; cafe in Dried fruitat Levinsky Market; Clockwise from top : citiesbreak.com

IMAGES: DANA FRIEDLANDER; GETTY citiesbreak.com shawarma andceviche are regular stellar markets. Anexcellent winelist supports items. upyour night at nearby furniture andtrinkets from localflea a seasonalregional menu;thefish popular Neve Tzedek isdecorated book-lined, bohohaunt Noach, with artfullymismatched retro where there’s often live jazz bohemian Joz ve Loz inthe Cosy, candlelitand and funkbands. NIGHT generation , Iranians and stallholders —many third- orfourth- the key attraction isthecharming swathes ofdeligoodies.However, hand-roasted green and and driedfruits,aswell ason-trend nuts, seeds,vegetables, saltfish stalls doalively trade inspices, with aspinachandfeta bureka. The mid-morning artisanalbeer, perhaps an earlycoffee andpastry, ora far as1894. It’s agreat place for which hasshopsdating backas Wander around Levinsky Market, MORNING A DAY CITY THE IN Turks —whoare keen to share samples oftheirgoods.Get chatting anddiscover the talesbehind ingredients they sell. stunning coastline. Tuck inwhilegazingoutover the served withNorthAfrican salads. quince andkumquat-based , that day’s catch, topped withspicy enjoy deliciousdishesmadewith tiny andpatio inJaffa, and lunchtime stop at Margaret Tayar’s Aviv isright onthebeach.Make a streets, itcanbeeasy to forget Tel With somuchgoingoninthecity NOON Break One Two Cities 11 Get to know the personalities, as well Meet the as the unique stories, behind the culinary people scene of Tel Aviv

INBAL BAUM

Delicious Israel runs culinary walking tours, cooking workshops and Shabbat dinners. We talk to its founder, Inbal Baum, for some insights into the city and the experiences on offer to explore the tastes of Tel Aviv Clockwise from far left: Inbal Baum; Giaconda wine bar; Rafaella (left) HOW DID THE IDEA FOR and Anat from Giaconda DELICIOUS ISRAEL START? It was quite an unexpected journey. After practicing as an ANAT SELA AND RAFAELLA RONEN attorney in New York and as a yoga instructor in , I We chat to the owners of we opened our import wine HOW DO THE CHANGE moved to Israel. It took me a Giaconda, a buzzing wine bar and company Giaconda. Three WEEK TO WEEK? while to understand what I really shop in the heart of the city, about years ago, we opened the On Fridays we choose a wanted to do, but when food their thoughtfully curated wine list flagship shop. All the wines different theme — producers, tours came into the picture it was and the importance of educating in the shop are our exclusive regions or varieties to a light-bulb moment. Today, what customers about the wine that imports and we now have over concentrate on. This enables started as a passion project has they’re drinking 1,000 different wines. our customers to deepen their blossomed into Israel’s leading knowledge and experience culinary tour company. HOW DOES GIACONDA FIT INTO WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO different wines. THE WINE SCENE IN TEL AVIV? SOURCE YOUR WINE FROM? CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT SOME There are several wine bars Mainly , , Germany WHAT KIND OF EVENTS DO OF YOUR TOURS IN TEL AVIV? at Cafe Levinsky 41 and pick but there’s nowhere that comes in the city, however we’re the and Spain, and we also have a YOU LIKE TO HOST? Tel Aviv is such a perfect walking up some sweets at Albert’s close to the creative energy only educational wine shop and nice selection of Slovenian and Events at Giaconda are varied city, so we have a number of Conditoria — open since the flowing through the food of bar. Giaconda has a very clear Croatian wines. from dinners with top chefs experiences that cater to all and 1930s. A visit to Carmel Market this country. philosophy — we aim to inspire and wine pairings, to wine can be personalised. The Eat wouldn’t be complete without the people to get to know, learn and tasting courses. Tel Aviv tour (4.5 hours) is great hummus from Shlomo & Doron WHAT’S SOMETHING EXCITING love wine. for people wanting a longer city and some local craft from HAPPENING IN THE TEL AVIV WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR tour, or the Carmel or Levinsky the Beer Bazaar. FOOD SCENE? WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR FAVOURITE WINES ON OFFER Market tours (around two hours) I find it exciting to see local GIACONDA COME FROM? IN THE BAR? suit those wanting a quick taster. WHAT MAKES THE CULINARY chefs getting in touch with and Around 16 years ago we moved Giaconda’s selection is very SCENE IN TEL AVIV SO UNIQUE? embracing local and seasonal to New Zealand and studied unique and diverse — the wines ARE THERE ANY MUST-SEE We have the perfect formula: a ingredients, as well as their oenology and viticulture. We we choose are very pure and STALLS IN TEL AVIV? beach town with a relaxed vibe family’s heritage. We can see worked for wineries and with clean. We also specialise in Absolutely! Too many to list, and a thriving start-up scene modern versions of Moroccan, the vineyards. The idea of organic and natural wines, one but here are a few... in Levinsky with entrepreneurial spirit. Syrian and Egyptian , Giaconda grew while we were of the only places in the country Market, try the artisanal gazoz I’ve lived around the globe, among others. deliciousisrael.com there, and then 11 years ago, to do so. giaconda.co.il

12 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 13 Will Hide explains why you need to have your Start the run before, not after, a day right traditional Israeli breakfast

The matkot (beach tennis) TOP 3 players were out not long after sunrise, their rhythmic pat-pat- pat of ball against paddle acting 1. BENEDICT, TEL AVIV as an inspiring metronome to Four different versions of my run along the Mediterranean shakshuka, as well as eggs shoreline in Tel Aviv. benedict, are served at this My stomach was empty buzzing cafe, which has and the sweet, salty air was two branches — the one on beginning to induce hunger Rothschild Avenue is best for pangs. But I had a goal in mind: people watching. Open 24/7, one of my favourite spots for it’s perfect when you can’t breakfast, Manta Ray, a fabulous be bothered to get out of restaurant by the beach. It’s bed that early. And if you’ve the perfect way to welcome the sampled Tel Aviv’s legendary day with a large plate of food, nightlife until dawn, you can feast strong coffee, a newspaper and on the way home. benedict.co.il great people watching — even Madonna has been spotted here. products served together, and, of , or maybe even dinner. It’s 2. KADOSH, JERUSALEM Like many places famous for , no , but do expect said that the Israeli breakfast There are numerous spots where their authentic Israeli breakfast, to see lots of different cheeses originated on the kibbutzim, you can grab a sabich — a pitta Manta Ray is popular enough and tasty fish such as where workers would toil before sandwich stuffed with tasty fried to warrant booking, with locals and . the day got too hot, then eat a aubergine and — but and tourists alike tucking into In addition you’ll see hummus, communal meal, similar if you want something a bit more , eggs and salads. tahini and baba ganoush laid out to what we’d call today. leisurely, try Kadosh. This cosy If you’ve never had an Israeli alongside fresh vegetables and Nowadays it’s a tradition family-run cafe is a Jerusalem salad before, especially at olives, as well as juices, fruit, among most , who go to institution and serves delicious breakfast, expect your taste buds bread and pastries. Time it right great lengths to plan a weekend breakfast plus French-style to be smacked with flavour and you definitely won’t need brunch to catch up with friends pastries all day long — on a sunny — finely chopped tomatoes, and family. It’s as perfect for day, try and bag one of the tables , , and the urban hipster, complete outside. 2eat.co.il/eng/kadosh peppers, drizzled with lemon with flip-flops, baseball cap, Shakshuka juice and olive oil. beard and sunglasses, as it is 3. MONTEFIORE, TEL AVIV But save space for the for the fashionista in a flowing This hotel restaurant is one of the shakshuka, a deliciously tangy white kaftan and Prada shades. DID YOU KNOW? most stylish places to eat in town. dish of eggs poached in a hot After eating, head to the Reservations are essential and tomato, , and pepper beach to snooze in the sun, try Orthodox Jews don’t mix meat and dairy products, as it’s in trendy Neve Tzedek, it’s sauce, best mopped up with your hand at a spot of matkot which means you’ll never see a cheese trolley if you perfect for refuelling before you hit chunks of freshly baked bread. or go for an amble round the have a in a restaurant that adheres to the laws the shops. Go for a well-rounded If you go out for breakfast at lively streets. But a run at that of kashrut (kosher dietary laws). In most places breakfast with eggs, vegetables, a more traditional kosher venue, Grilled sardines point is unlikely — you’ll be far desserts are made with non-dairy substitutes that cheese, bread, juice and coffee.

you won’t find meat and dairy too full. ALAMY GETTY; IMAGES: achieve wonderful creamy textures hotelmontefiore.co.il/restaurant

14 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 15 Journey between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv and you’ll cross the Judean Hills, which are scattered Judean with more than 20 family-run wineries. Sam Lewis rounds up some of the best places to stop off to wine sample award-winning wine

Famed for Biblical stories, a region where the winemakers SIX OF THE including the battle of David still lead the tastings at most of BEST WINERIES and Goliath, the Judean Hills the wineries.” are today better known for their Many of the vineyards’ owners boutique wineries and breweries, have fascinating stories about 1. FLAM with boundless opportunities to how they planted their first Sit and soak up the 5. SPHERA explore caves and national parks. vines in the early 1990s, with views of the Judean Experienced winemaker Doron Rav Just 40-50 minutes’ drive Barak’s tours taking in around Hills at this boutique Hon studied viticulture in Burgundy, from Jerusalem or Tel Aviv, the three wineries a day, from small winery, 15 miles from France, and has produced high- region is easy to explore by car or boutique establishments to Jerusalem. Enjoy a tasting quality white wines that have earned even bike. However, if you want larger outfits that sell more than of five wines paired with artisanal international recognition. He’s known to sample its award-winning 100,000 bottles a year. cheeses and while learning for his elegant sparkling wines and vintages, many companies offer While each one is different, he about the industry. Hugh . spherawinery.com guided day tours where you’re claims they all have one thing in Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2017 chauffeur-driven around and get common — good-quality wine. awarded Flam its highest ranking of to sample everything from wine “No one is copycatting here. four stars describing its Noble wine as Selection of cheeses to artisan chocolate. Most of the winemakers go ‘superb and elegant’. flamwinery.com at Flam winery “The Judean Hills is our most abroad to get training, then popular itinerary,” says Barak return and put their own 2. TZORA Yitzhaki of Israel Wine Tours. interpretation into the wine. The Founded in 1993, this 80-acre “It’s one of the oldest wine culinary scene in Tel Aviv and estate employs the first Israeli regions in the world and you can the Middle Eastern diet demand Master of Wine, Eran Pick, and visit ancient wine presses dating high-quality wines and these placed five wines above 90 points back 1,600-2,000 years, and it’s wineries are producing them.” in the October 2016 issue of Wine Spectator. Try the Misty Hills, which scored 93 (outstanding). Wines are ranging from 10 to 60 and offers all from grown on the estate. a cellar tour, which includes an tzoravineyards.com explanation of the wine production process and the fascinating story of 3. AGUR the establishment of the winery in Winemaker Shuki Yashuv often 2002. nevowinery.co.il leads the tours at this boutique winery. He began in 1999 with Israel Wine Tours can 6. DOMAINE DU CASTEL a single plot making just a few tailor-make day tours to Serena Sutcliffe, Master of Wine, thousand bottles, and today historic sites, craft breweries head of Sotheby’s international produces nearly 15,000 bottles of and chocolatiers. Prices are wine department and wine writer, five types of wine, including some from around £440 for two received a bottle of the vineyard’s kosher vintages. agurwines.com people including transport, 1992 vintage as a gift and loved wine tastings and a guide. it. Since then, this family-owned 4. NEVO WINERY israelwinetour.co.il winery has shot to fame and now This winery may be small but the produces in excess of 100,000

View of a winery in the Judean Hills ALAMY GETTY; IMAGES: visitor centre here caters to groups bottles a year. castel.co.il

16 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 17 Jerusalem

Head to the capital to discover an exciting mix of culinary tradition and innovation

Jerusalem is a whirl of international cuisines. The famous quarters of the — Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim — and the Orthodox and Arab enclaves beyond are home to a host of nationalities and subcultures. There’s also sizeable Ethiopian, Iraqi, Georgian, Greek, Syrian and Yemeni populations. Factor in the pilgrims and tourists too and you can eat almost every kind of cuisine at any time of the day. Jerusalem is an ancient city that has preserved many aspects of its street life, with an abundance of markets and food stalls. Strolling through the streets is one of the greatest pleasures — taking in the sights and sounds, and making pit stops to tuck into Jerusalem street scene everything from warm pittas and kubbeh (dumpling) , and salads of , tomato and UP A STORM HAIL THE HUMMUS figs, to falafel and hummus, plus In the morning, the air around Creamed with tehina, garlic and refreshing juice. is filled lemon puree, cicer arietinum (‘the with the tantalising aroma of chickpea’) transcends its humble fresh, -baked artisanal origins to an almost mythical breads, and pastries, made status. Hummus Lina in the using secret traditional methods Old City is legendary — serving or high-end, modern techniques. just hummus with olive oil and Drop by the Teller for your a choice of spices, , pickles fix — the blueberry and pitta bread. Ta’ami in the west and nut version is popular — or tops its dishes with chickpeas and Russell's Bakery to witness Egyptian ful (fava stew), the results of their blend of spiced , egg or falafel. And, for artisanal processes and European atmosphere, Rachmo in Mahane traditions. Fancy a sandwich? Yehuda Market also offers orez Try Shraga Cafe’s exquisite vegan ve-she’u’it () and offerings, filled with cashew memula’im (stuffed vegetables)

cheese, and black olives. BOARD TOURIST JERUSALEM ALAMY; GETTY; IMAGES: with its hummus.

18 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 19 PULL-OUT! Four UK-based chefs take on classic Israeli concepts and give them a recipes modern twist for you to try at home

BABKA WITH POPPY INGREDIENTS 3 Add the eggs slowly until fully SEEDS, SESAME SEEDS combined. Remove about half the AND , 60g plain flour , and then add the sesame SERVED WITH 300g white paste to the blender and blitz. VALENÇAY ’S 30g honey 4 Pour the white and black CHEESE AND HONEY 100g batters into a single jug at the BY PASCAL AUSSIGNAC 5 eggs same time (from opposite sides) 80g black sesame paste (made by so that each batter occupies each roasting the seeds and blending half of the jug. Pascal Aussignac serves with oil) 5 Pour the batter into a greased up a spin on babka. Much loaf tin, swirling to create a simpler than the traditional Fig leaf dressing marbled effect. method using yeasted 100g fig leaves, ripped 6 Bake for about 35–40 minutes , the chef stays true to 400g grapeseed oil then leave to cool. his French roots by serving 300g runny honey 7 Next, blend the oil and fig the with Valençay leaves at a high speed. Transfer cheese and a sweet fig leaf To serve to a pan. Stir and heat the and honey dressing Valençay goat's cheese mixture for a few minutes then A pinch of poppy seeds leave it to cool. 1 cinnamon stick, separated 8 Strain through a fine sieve, Cooking time: squeezing any excess oil out of 60 minutes 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. the pulp. Whisk the honey and oil. Serves: 4 2 Add all of the ingredients for the 9 Serve the babka with the babka (except the eggs and sesame dressing, poppy seeds, cheese Recipe courtesy of greatbritishchefs.com paste) into a blender and blitz. and cinnamon. citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break AUBERGINE AND INGREDIENTS seconds longer, then transfer to a BURIKA 1 aubergine, cubed bowl and mix in the aubergine. BY JOSÉ PIZARRO 4 tbsp olive oil 3 Add the chorizo to the pan 1 large onion, finely sliced and fry until golden and starting 2 garlic , finely sliced to crisp. Drain and mix with the This burika recipe by José 1 tsp seeds rest of the ingredients. Add the Pizarro was influenced by 200g chorizo, finely diced parsley, season and allow to cool. Israel's addictive street food. 1 handful of parsley, chopped 4 Preheat the oil in a large non- This version is inspired by 300ml stick saute pan. the chef's Spanish roots, 8 sheets of pastry 5 Place two sheets of brik pastry with chorizo and aubergine 4 eggs in a dish. Spoon a quarter of the making a delicious filling for and pepper filling into the centre, making a the crispy brik pastry well in the middle. Crack the egg 1 To begin, make the filling. Heat into the well. the olive oil in a pan and season 6 Carefully fold one side of the Cooking time: the aubergine. Add the aubergine pastry over the other and lift INGREDIENTS casserole dish. Add coffee, onion 60 minutes to the pan, tossing in the hot oil gently using the corners. Place in SABICH ON Slow-cooked eggs skins and top up with enough Serves: 4 until it's all absorbed. Fry gently the hot oil, pressing around the SOURDOUGH WITH 4 eggs water to cover. Completely cover for 15–20 minutes, turning every edges of the filling with a spatula. GREEN ZHOUG 285ml coffee the dish, place in the oven and so often, until the aubergine is 7 Once it has been cooking AND EGGS SLOW- 3 onion skins cook overnight. soft and the oil has released back for under a minute, and the COOKED IN COFFEE 3 Remove from the oven, crack into the pan. underside is golden, flip it over BY RICHARD TURNER Green zhoug the shells lightly and return to the 2 Scoop out with a slotted spoon carefully and cook on the 2 green chillies, chopped pot to cool in the liquid. onto kitchen paper. Add the other side. 1 bunch of leaves, 4 To make the zhoug, pulse all onion to the pan, fry gently for 10 8 Drain on kitchen paper and chopped the ingredients in a blender until minutes until softened then add repeat to make three more. Serve Richard Turner's sabich Recipe courtesy of recipe is inspired by his 1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley, combined but not too smooth. greatbritishchefs.com the garlic and cumin. Fry for 30 with soft white pittas. travels to Israel, bringing chopped 5 Using a vegetable peeler, peel a British twist to this 2 garlic cloves, crushed away strips of aubergine skin street food classic by using 1 tsp ground coriander from top to bottom, so they end sourdough bread 1 tsp flaky sea salt up with alternating black and 1 tsp ground cumin white stripes. Cut the aubergines 100ml extra virgin olive oil into 2cm slices. Cooking time: 1 tsp vinegar 6 Heat the olive oil in a wide 45 minutes pan. Fry the aubergine until dark, Serves: 4 Sabich turning once, for 6–8 minutes. 2 aubergines Remove from the pan, leave 4 slices of sourdough to drain on kitchen paper then 200ml tahini sauce (tahini paste sprinkle with salt. thinned down with lemon juice, 7 Place a slice of toasted and seasoned with salt and finely sourdough on each plate. Spoon grated lemon zest) a tablespoon of tahini sauce over 200g diced cucumber, tomato and each and overlap aubergine parsley, dressed in lemon juice slices on top. 250ml extra virgin olive oil 8 Spoon over some more tahini 1 preserved lemon, peeled sauce. Peel and slice the eggs, and chopped then season, and lay on top. Flaky sea salt 9 Drizzle over more tahini sauce Recipes courtesy of Freshly ground and spoon over the green zhoug. greatbritishchefs.com Spoon the salad on top and Preheat the oven to 90°C. sprinkle with chopped Recipe courtesy of 1 greatbritishchefs.com 2 Place the eggs in a lidded preserved lemon.

Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break BY ERAN TIBI

This is a re-imagined version of a humble dish you can find on every corner in London using a crispy pastry case stuffed with magically spiced meat and cooled with garlic yoghurt

Cooking time: 3 hours (including preparation time) Serves: 6-8

INGREDIENTS Kebab filling 500g lean minced lamb 5 cloves of garlic, minced Half an onion, chopped METHOD 9 Boil 3 litres of water with 3 10 sprigs lemon thyme or Kebab filling tablespoons of table salt, blanch thyme, chopped 1 Mix all lamb ingredients. Knead dumplings for two minutes, 1 medium tomato, grated the mix so it holds together. then place into ice water to cool Half a tbsp of each: ground 2 Roll the mince into £2-coin down. Next, place onto a cloth cumin, ground coriander, flaked sized balls and leave to rest in to dry. chilli, all and the fridge. A big handful of chopped Garlic yoghurt coriander or parsley Semolina dough 1 Mince the garlic to a puree, 1 Bring water, olive oil and a add salt, pepper, olive oil Semolina dough touch of salt to the boil. Add and yoghurt. 480g flour semolina and 160g of the flour. 2 Add lemon juice and tap 170g fine semolina flour 2 Mix with a wooden spoon to water and mix. 2 large eggs prevent lumps until dough is 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil sticky and formed. Burnt buttered pine nuts 300ml water 3 Remove from saucepan and let 1 Place 50g of butter in a hot pan it cool a little and add eggs. and heat until it starts browning. Garlic yoghurt 4 Add rest of flour and continue 2 Add pine nuts to toast. 500g full fat Greek yoghurt kneading until smooth, it should Lots of garlic (3-5 cloves) not be too sticky or firm. Plating

Half a lemon (juiced) 5 Cover with cling film and let it 1 Fry the blanched dumplings in ERAN TIBI Salt and pepper to taste sit for half an hour. butter or olive oil until golden. 2 tbsp olive oil 6 Roll out to 2mm thick circles 2 Put dumplings onto plate on 100ml tap water with 8cm diameter. top of garlic yoghurt. 7 Fill them with the kebab filling. 3 Add extra yoghurt on top, Garnish 8 Seal the dumplings by pinching then spoon pine nuts with some 100g pine nuts two corners at a time, to create butter, and finely chopped spring

Handful of spring onion an X shape (refer to photo). onion over the dumplings. FOOD & PHOTOGRAPHY:

Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com AFTER HOURS A DAY IN THE CITY Venture to the heart of Jerusalem, to the Mahane Yehuda Market, more commonly MORNING known as the shuk, where locals Pop into Coffee World, on Yanai go to shop, eat, wind down, meet Street, for a fresh Ethiopian or up and, of course, drink. As the Sumatran brew before heading bustling market stalls close up to Mahane Yehuda Market. It’s a each evening, a more playful sense-stimulating showcase for vibe permeates as bars and the produce that underpins Israeli restaurants open their doors cuisine. It’s been gentrified in and spill into the shuttered recent years with hip restaurants market itself. and bars, but tradition is still alive — stallholders are more than willing to talk you through their produce as you sample everything from figs and , to and Middle Eastern sweets.

Cafe in Mahane NOON Yehuda Market Stay local for lunch at the famous Machneyuda restaurant where Assaf Granit and his partners, Uri Navon and Yossi Elad, extend the variety and quality — and the informal vibe — of the market all the way to the table. Dishes meld Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences; highlights include shikshukit (deconstructed beef and lamb kebab) and an old- fashioned Moroccan fish stew.

NIGHT Indulge in an evening of North BREW TIME African street food dishes by Israeli Take a sip of Jerusalem’s thriving chef and TV personality Avi Levy beer scene at one of the many — he won MasterChef Israel back in breweries and bars popping up 2011. His restaurant, Beit Hakavan all over the city. Don't miss the serves up meat, fish and vegetarian Beer Bazaar at Mahane Yehuda fare, including slow-cooked beef, Market with more than 100 shakshuka, , falafel and a

types of Israeli craft beer on . Every course comes

offer from microbreweries all with a selection of salads and over the country. To take a bottle dips — among them dips, home, head to Hamesameah tehina and chopped salad, as well nearby, where they offer a huge as tomato and pepper matbucha (cooked salads). collection of ales, stouts and Shikshukit (deconstructed beef and IMAGES: MACHNE- RESTAURANT; YUDA lagers for purchase. lamb kebab), Machneyuda restaurant ALAMYGETTY;

20 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 21 Get to know the personalities, as well Meet the as the unique stories, behind the culinary people scene in Jerusalem

Owners Avi (left) and Yitzi Katz; The Coffee Mill

AVI KATZ

The Coffee Mill is a family-run today, more than 20 years cafe that’s in touch with the later, you can find our family

latest brewing trends and serves gathering on Fridays at the Mill. Tali Friedman at excellent coffee. We catch up with TALI FRIEDMAN Mahane Yehuda Market one of its owners, Avi Katz IS ETHICAL SOURCING IMPORTANT TO YOU? WHAT’S THE COFFEE SCENE We stock fair trade coffee in Tali Friedman is a chef who’s what I do today — take people the largest in Israel with more LIKE IN JERUSALEM? different roasts, from light to passionate about the culinary heart around the market and talk about than 430 vendors, and it’s got a In recent years there’s been very intense. Ethics are hugely of her beloved hometown. She the beautiful fresh produce. burgeoning nightlife scene, too. increasing experimentation important to us — we were one of provides cooking workshops and in coffee brewing techniques, the first Israeli outlets to promote tours of Mahane Yehuda Market WHAT MAKES JERUSALEM’S DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURIT and we’re always exploring new the concept of fair trade coffee. CULINARY SCENE SO SPECIAL? MARKET STALLS? innovations to keep up with HOW DID THE CONCEPT OF THE It’s unique due to influences from That’s like asking me which of my the trends. FINALLY, WHAT ABOUT THE MARKET TOURS START? around the world — everyone has children is my favourite ! LOCAL AREA? Previously, I worked with a lot of brought their own flavour and WHAT’S THE STORY BEHIND The atmosphere of the cafe chefs and became a sous chef at a twist. All the different cultures WHAT KIND OF CULINARY THE COFFEE MILL? reflects the neighbourhood, the very young age. When I became have created an amazing and fun EXPERIENCE DO YOU PROVIDE? Our mother and aunt developed German Colony. It’s a beautiful, a mother, I taught cooking but kitchen here in Jerusalem. At the market, we pick up produce the cafe, and now the second historic area with many charming missed the passion and the buzz to bring back to my atelier. It’s generation has taken the helm. old buildings. We’ve incorporated of being in the kitchen. Restless HOW INTEGRAL ARE FOOD all about discovering how fresh We were very involved in the the immigrant personality of one day, I took some of my early MARKETS TO JERUSALEM? and simple Israeli cuisine is. We business growing up — we’d the original owners by lining students to the Mahane Yehuda Most people in Jerusalem buy only work with seasonal produce, work at the Mill after school the walls with interesting and Market and realised that it was their produce at the market. and cook between five and seven and during the summers. Even colourful New Yorker covers. where I wanted to be. So that’s The Mahane Yehuda Market is courses. haatelie.com

22 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 23 Eleanor Ross tours the markets, cafes street eats and restaurants of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, sampling plenty of the local fare on the way

With year-round warmth I was told Tel Aviv was that stretches into long balmy experiencing a culinary evenings, Israelis have the revolution, and it shows. It’s outdoor lifestyle nailed. where new trends surface and Alongside late-afternoon swims percolate, and where the vogue in the Mediterranean and for innovation is trumped only by hiking in Upper Galilee comes comfortable eating spaces. Every feasting on deep-fried snacks cafe and bar feels like the sort of from outdoor stalls and filling up place you’d like to live, and that on herb-laden , legs soul filters into the food itself. dangling in the ocean. Hummus is a good place to To kick-start my culinary start. It’s arguably the food of adventure there’s no better place Israel and is such a part of the to begin than Tel Aviv’s biggest national identity that 2010 saw market. The stalls in Carmel the ‘Hummus Wars’ break out Market heave with pomegranate between Israel and Lebanon seeds and I breathe in the sweet — as cooks from each nation, smell of plump and vied with each other to serve ripe berries. The market runs up the world’s largest helping of south along King George Street, the chickpea dip. I was told by and there’s a wealth of spices, almost every Israeli I met to head fruits, vegetables and stall to Abu Hasan, in Jaffa, to sample holders deep- things in one of the best local offerings. the morning sunlight. I grab a The mid-morning sunshine is and work my in full effect as I schlep to Jaffa, way between the stalls. a 4,000-year-old port area in Israeli food is hard to define the south of Tel Aviv that was as it’s strongly influenced by absorbed into the city decades its neighbours — , , ago and is now a bohemian Carmel Market scene, Tel Aviv and Lebanon — while neighbourhood, complete the Mediterranean to the west with portside cafes and pretty provides much of its fresh fish. boutiques. I’d been warned that topped with a healthy drizzle of Around 70% of Israel’s 8.6 Abu Hasan closes its doors once olive oil and accompanied by a There’s no better place to begin million-strong population are it’s out of hummus and it seemed stack of . I wolf it all than Tel Aviv’s biggest market. Jewish, while approximately 20% like every other person queueing down, as hungry office workers are Arabs, and this is reflected in outside the store knew there was a pile in around me. This is fast The stalls in Carmel Market heave the variety of food on offer. Stall limited supply. food at its best. with pomegranate seeds and holders in the market seem to I order the meshulash (regular While in Jaffa, I was also I breathe in the sweet smell of come from everywhere — Druze hummus), masbaha (a tahini- determined to snack on women wearing headscarves serve rich hummus made with whole . Originating in , plump peaches and ripe berries pancakes next to Egyptian men chickpeas) and ful (fava bean and found in different guises Spinach and (skewered meat). stew), served on one plate, across the , they’re made GETTY ALAMY; IMAGES: cheese bourekas

24 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 25 church bells, and contemplating how best to find the schnitzel Jerusalem is so famous for. After the Second World War, thousands of refugees trickled towards Jerusalem. The resulting mishmash of cultures has created a culinary tradition where pretty much everything is served wrapped in — or accompanied by — bread and eaten on the hoof. Schnitzel is no different. Rather than , the schnitzel here is made from chicken — smashed, breaded and deep-fried. It’s often sold in falafel shops, crammed into a pitta or bread and accompanied by a fresh tomato salad — a novel way to eat a dish Sahlep that’s usually about a foot wide and served with new potatoes. However delicious schnitzel Ta’ami is a typical Israeli at whatever you want and guzzle is, it’s not falafel — a snack fast-food joint in downtown it down as you walk. I’d been saving myself for Jerusalem — plates of creamy Arriving in Israel hungry can since landing in Israel. And hummus, fast-fried tomatoes be overwhelming. Wherever you in Jerusalem I found the best. and heaps of salad. It’s always turn, there’s something tempting. Of course, Israel’s best falafel busy and it can be hard to get a Can’t get a seat at ‘the best’ doesn’t really exist — it depends seat. If you’re dead set on sitting restaurant? No bother, because how you like it: dry, moist, inside, go during the middle of there’ll always be somewhere just oily, crunchy... the day. Otherwise, queue, point as good, just around the corner. from buttery pastry stuffed Israel can be fiercely hot and it can be wrapped up to with a variety of fillings, such during the day, so evening is go. You may not think an open as spinach, cheese or potato. I when the crowds start to pour sandwich stuffed with hummus, ESSENTIALS: found mine in Leon Bakery, a out onto the streets. fried aubergine, boiled eggs, herbs, neighbourhood joint founded by As the heat dissipates, tomato and cucumber sounds like Bulgarians a few generations ago. sahlep stalls set up. Cauldrons the breakfast of dreams, but you’d Abu Hasan: 1 Dolphin Street, Jaffa, Once inside, I struggle to of bubbling, -like milk be wrong. After dining, I’m ready Tel Aviv choose between their speciality, flavoured with cinnamon are for Jerusalem. Ta’ami: 3 Shamai Street, the salty cheese and , or ladled out to queueing urbanites. Inside the Old City, the stone West Jerusalem the plain potato. I plump for I make a beeline to my favourite paving slabs are so worn by Ja’afar Sweets: Khan Al-Zeit Street, the latter, and the warm, soft, stall on a hill in Jaffa. centuries of footfall, they shine Old City, Jerusalem creamy potato is heavenly. “Pistachio?” I nod and my smooth. I’m in the mood for Mifgash Osher: 105 King George Feeling replete, I head for sahlep is scattered with pistachios something sweet, so head for Street, Tel Aviv the promenade — one of the and roasted coconut. I spoon it Ja’afar Sweets, deep within the Leon Bakery: 17 Oley Zion Street, best places to observe Tel Aviv happily, the velvety liquid slipping Islamic market in the Old City. Jaffa, Tel Aviv life, either on foot, hire bike or down my throat. It’s where I go for my annual Carmel Market: Carmel Street, rollerblades. Having burned off Before leaving for Jerusalem dose of , a type of cream Tel Aviv a few calories people-watching, the next morning, I already knew cheese in shredded pastry and Check out Delicious Israel’s foodie walking tours. deliciousisrael.com/ as the sun sinks toward the where to go to get my sabich fix soaked in . Druze taboon pitta bread horizon, I’m ready for my — Mifgash Osher, in the city I eat mine in the shade of with salad in Carmel Market delicious-walking-tours

next snack. centre. This is a glorious breakfast, the city walls, listening to ISTOCKPHOTO ALAMY; GETTY; IMAGES:

26 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 27 With the vegan diet now an integral part of Israel’s culinary scene, Emma WHERE TO EAT The vegan Holland explores the rise of exciting vegan places to try JERUSALEM revolution NAGILA Located in the centre of the city, this family-run restaurant has a cosy vibe and a health-conscious attitude. is locally sourced and readily The menu presents many twists on TEL AVIV available, allowing for veganism popular local dishes such as vegan ZAKAIM to become a flourishing part of burgers, with aubergine Zakaim’s daily menu has Persian the Israeli food scene. and tofu, and with creamy touches throughout, and a focus Creamy hummus and falafel cashew cheese, vegetables and on fresh and locally sourced pittas — some of the most well- tomatoes. nagila.co.il ingredients. For an intriguing known and loved national dishes flavour hit, try the roasted — are available on most street VILLAGE GREEN cauliflower with , or the corners, and they’re vegan, too. This cafeteria-style chain is mostly creamy served up with As a social movement, veganism vegan and all homemade — with tomatoes, olives and za’atar oil. has had huge momentum. Activist home-baked bread, lots of hummus zakaim.co.il Ori Shavit, a food journalist and dishes and a delicious shakshuka key figure in the vegan scene, is with vegan in place of ANASTASIA deeply interested in educating the the traditional eggs. villayegreen. This homely cafe was at the world to be able to make informed rest-e.co.il forefront of veganism in Tel Aviv as decisions about their food choices. the first entirely vegan eatery. They She’s engaged in making people NOCTURNO serve up fresh salads, raw desserts Ori Shavit at the market aware of the devastating impacts Bohemian favourite Nocturno has a and smoothies — made with their of the meat and dairy industries large selection of vegan sandwiches, own homemade soy, or rice — on our planet, our own health, burgers and freshly squeezed milk — in a light, airy setting. With veganism rapidly on the rise and for animals. Shavit talks of juices. Fresh produce is brought in in Israel, the culinary scene has how Israel is a “vegan paradise”, daily from nearby Mahane Yehuda stepped up to the challenge with a and it really is. Market, and come nighttime, it’s a NANUCHKA range of vegan restaurants, cafes In both Tel Aviv and lively space for performance art and This popular and inventive twists on classic Jerusalem, there are all kinds music. nocturno.co.il Georgian restaurant dishes. Israel has the highest of vegan-friendly places to rave shocked locals when it number of vegans per capita about, including ice cream joints moved to a 100% vegan menu. — and it’s not hard to see why. with extensive dairy-free options Business is booming with dishes It’s the ideal environment for — Gelateria Siciliana in Tel Aviv including a mushroom and such a movement: Israel’s cultural has soy ice creams with flavours spinach stuffed Georgian fabric is defined by an exciting such as chocolate, pistachio dough. nanuchka. melting pot of cultures and and halva. Fast-food eateries co.il nationalities, there’s a national are also catching up, with The love for innovation, and as a small Vegan Shawarma in Jerusalem nation, awareness spreads quickly serving as the perfect spot for a with approximately 4-5% of the late-night fix with tasty vegan population now leading a vegan shawarma, burgers and pizza. lifestyle and diet. Even for meat-lovers keen to Israeli cuisine is closely tied simply moderate their intake, to the healthy Mediterranean Israel is the perfect place to diet — with a focus on fresh discover the exciting flavours and vegetables, fruits, and Tofu innovations coming out of this

olive oil — and fresh produce IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; ALAMY; REVITAL TOPIOL; ORI SHAVIT exciting culinary scene. Nanuchka restaurant

28 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 29 From innovative agriculture to unique culinary heritage, Connor McGovern reveals beyond there’s plenty more to discover when you Visitors can be guided around the head out of the cities and into the desert plantation, picking and tasting the cities the likes of tomatoes, cucumbers, Chinese oranges and

It may be squeezed into a tiny The Salad Trail, located in the strip of land on the eastern sun-drenched Negev Desert in Mediterranean coast but Israel southern Israel, started life as a boasts a diverse food scene. flower plantation. Its beguiling cities are where Now owner Uri Alon has millennia of history, culture and used his expertise in agriculture EILAT tradition intertwine, but away to expand his farm into a fully from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, operational exporter, using in the rural hinterlands, the latest in farming methods Tucked away in the south of the country, on the golden time-honoured recipes and to combat the difficult, water- shores of the Gulf of , Eilat is the go-to spot modern farming techniques rub scarce environment. Visitors for some fun in the sun. Packed with international shoulders. It’s here where the can be guided around the restaurants, with cuisines ranging from local to Japanese, breadth of the country’s larder plantation, picking and and Italian to Middle Eastern, foodies will revel in its becomes truly apparent. tasting the likes of tomatoes, culinary offerings. Before lunch, work up an appetite with The desert might not be the cucumbers, Chinese oranges, its host of activities — from windsurfing and scuba-diving most obvious place to seek out strawberries and herbs, and in the warm waters of the Red Sea, to mountain biking some of the country’s best food, learning more about these Uri Alon with some of or off-roading in 4x4s in the nearby mountains — there’s his farm’s produce but it’s exactly where to look. innovative agricultural methods. plenty to keep every type of traveller entertained.

As well as the agricultural techniques used in the desert, tours offer a closer look at the Bedouin culture that thrives in this part of Israel. After a traditional dinner of tomato salads, hot flatbreads and (an upside-down rice dish crammed with meat, herbs and spices), guests can learn more about this fascinating culture, finishing off the tour with a cup of syrupy Bedouin . Israel also has a longstanding heritage as one of the Levant’s foremost wine producers, and numerous delicious wines can be tasted in over five wine-growing regions. Tours include visiting vineyards, meeting producers, calling in at boutique wine shops, and of course, toasting the day with a glass of the stuff, paired

Negev Desert IMAGES: GETTY; THE SALAD TRAIL with local breads and cheeses.

30 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 31 If you can’t wait until you arrive, sample the cuisine before you go in BALA BAYA A taste London. Emma Holland rounds up a What: Tucked away under the few Israeli-style spots to check out railway arches, Bala Baya’s of Israel closer to home menu presents a progressive and modern take on the unique flavours coming out of Tel Aviv. Where: Southwark Try: For the perfect start to the weekend, go for brunch and THE PALOMAR and a sweet, pomegranate sample the unlimited small What: Israeli chef Assif Granit’s molasses vinaigrette. Move onto plates with inventive flavour London offshoot with a menu that the , a Yemeni bread hits — smoky , successfully expresses the melting that’s pot-baked to perfection strained yoghurt with za’atar oil, pot of cultures, nationalities and and made for hands-on dipping and grilled beets with pistachio religions that form Jerusalem’s accompanied with burnt courgette to name but a few — served culinary identity. tzatziki. The ‘josperised’ octopus around a large plate of pitta. Also Where: Soho with a chickpea msabacha is try the blackberry French toast Try: Everything on the menu has possibly the most tender and tasty with pecans, chocolate brittle innovative flavours and beautiful octopus you’ll ever try, and the and — golden execution. Make sure you grab creamy with asparagus, crisp on the outside, sweet and a seat at the bar so you can soak mushroom ragout, parmesan soft inside. The Gazoz prosecco up the lively kitchen atmosphere and truffle oil really stands out. jug with watermelon and parsley and enjoy chatting to the chefs For , the mascarpone brings a refreshing touch, and be as they plate up. Start with the poppyseed ice cream with sure to save room for the burnt carpaccio — thin slices sprinkles of macadamia babka with stewed plums and of vibrant sweet beets with has lovely balances of flavour. whisked crème anglaise — a real burnt goat’s cheese, thepalomar.co.uk Bala Baya treat to round off the meal. balabaya.co.uk

THE GOOD EGG HONEY AND CO What: A popular weekend What: A husband-and-wife-run brunch or dinner spot with cafe serving Middle Eastern Mediterranean-inspired dishes favourites that has become a and New York vibes. Beyond the capital, London institution with a separate Where: Stoke Newington head to Yorks Bakery grill restaurant now open. Try: Go for brunch plates such as Cafe in Birmingham for Where: Bloomsbury Iraqi aubergine with eggs, tahini dishes with an Israeli touch Try: Graze on starters including and dak dak salad, or the Israeli such as shakshuka, or dine at JS red pepper falafel; and classic shakshuka with the option Restaurant in Manchester with ’ cheese salad; and a twist on to add tasty mutton or platters of lamb shawarma, the British classic beans on toast . For the table, order and tahini with barbunya beans and roasted with honey and za’atar, peppers on Moroccan sourdough. or sourdough with date butter. Move on to the succulent Coffee is excellent, and if you go pomegranate chicken, Yemeni later in the day, there’s craft beer, meatballs with , and a a fantastic wine list and inventive slow-cooked lamb shoulder with cocktails — the coffee plums, rose and barberries — a with vodka, , milk and delightful combination. The green cardamom syrup, served over shakshuka is also a must with the ice gives a powerful caffeine hit. eggs baked in fresh spinach and

Jerusalem-style , The Palomar BAYA BALA PALOMAR; THE IMAGES: thegoodeggn16.com herbs. honeyandco.co.uk

32 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 33 We’ve rounded up six hotels in Tel Aviv where and Jerusalem for Essentials a city break escape with style TRAVEL ADVICE AND CONTACT to stay Israel Government Tourist Office T: 020 7299 1100 goisrael.com

WHEN TO GO The ideal time to visit Israel is during spring and autumn, when the TEL AVIV weather is pleasant but not too hot. Winter sees relatively good weather with light rain and a couple of days of snow in Jerusalem, Agripas while Tel Aviv only has the odd wet and windy day. MARKET HOUSE HOTEL Commanding a regal spot in the heart of Jaffa, this boutique hotel delicately JERUSALEM Currency: New shekel (ILS). Red tape: British passport blends the traditions of the ancient city £1 = ILS 4.66 holders don’t need a visa, but with contemporary touches. It’s perfectly Time: GMT +2 are required to have six months GETTING AROUND located for discovering the likes of the AGRIPAS International dial code: 00 left on their passport from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem are around Jaffa Flea Market and the nearby beaches. With Jerusalem’s many cafes, markets 972 the date of their return flight. 45 miles apart. Public transport is a atlas.co.il and shops in easy reach, this elegant Languages: Hebrew is spoken When flying into Ben Gurion convenient, reliable and reasonably boutique hotel is an intimate choice for by approximately 70% of the Airport in Tel Aviv, passports priced option, taking only 45 to 90 ROYAL BEACH BY ISROTEL a stay in the city. The hotel has 48 well- population and by are no longer stamped and minutes between the two cities. This beautiful five-star beachfront appointed rooms and four luxury suites, around 15%. English is also a removable entry card is Most bus and train lines don’t run resort hotel sports a great location, all of which have been carefully designed widely spoken. provided for all visitors instead. on Shabbat (service ends on Friday sleek interiors, impressive facilities and for comfort. Don’t miss the views of afternoon and resumes Saturday scrumptious dining options. The 230 Jerusalem’s terracotta rooftops from evening) or on . rooms and suites offer views over the the hotel’s sun deck, where breakfast is GETTING THERE EasyJet: Frequent flights Trains: Israel Railways operates coastline or the city’s skyline. served each morning. agripas.com Average flight time: 4hr from Manchester, Gatwick and a direct service between the two isrotel.com 30min Luton to Tel Aviv. easyjet.com cities most days. rail.co.il MOUNT ZION El Al: Daily flights from Luton Wizz: Three flights a week Buses: The Egged bus company POLI HOUSE Enjoy views of the likes of the Tower of and Heathrow to Tel Aviv. from Luton to Tel Aviv. operates most of the intercity bus Splashed with vibrant colours and David and the Valley of Hinnom from elal.com wizzair.com lines, as well as local services in quirky, modern furniture, the Poli House this charming hotel, which is packed with British Airways: Daily flights Arkia: Three flights a week both cities. egged.co.il pays homage to its Bauhaus-inspired original features. Set in the outskirts from Heathrow to Tel Aviv. from Stansted to Tel Aviv. Car hire: Traffic drives on the right building, as well as the street art and of the Old City, this hotel has plenty of ba.com arkia.com and car hire is widely available. culture of Tel Aviv. Kick back with a facilities for a relaxing break, including cocktail in the rooftop pool, backed by a spa and fitness centre, as well as an beautiful views of the city. outdoor pool for a leisurely dip when the thepolihouse.com sun is shining. mountzion.co.il LEARN THE LINGO HERBERT SAMUEL The Poli House Located in the central , just Shalom (Peace/hello) minutes away from the charms of the Toda (Thank you) Old City, the Herbert Samuel represents Kama ze? (How much?) a seamless marriage of Jerusalem’s Eifo? (Where?) heritage and contemporary design. With Ken (Yes) 137 spacious, elegant rooms and suites Lo (No) — all kitted out with rain showers and Nespresso machines — this hotel is a popular choice with couples and families.

orchidhotels.co.il IMAGES: ISRAELI MINISTRY OF TOURISM; GETTY

34 Two Cities One Break citiesbreak.com citiesbreak.com Two Cities One Break 35