Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities

23 SEP – 8 OCT 2014 Code: 21428

Tour Leaders Russell Casey, Iain Shearer

Physical Ratings

Visit the great oasis cities of Samarkand, Bukhara & Khiva who reveal a rich history to all who venture inside their gates: turquoise blue tilework, glorious minarets and brooding fortresses.

Overview Tour Highlights

This tour is led by Russell Casey and archaeologist and Central Asian expert Iain Shearer who explore the magnificent architecture and rich art traditions of Uzbekistan. Wonder at the rich magnificence of Tamerlane's Samarkand and her great monuments presenting some of the finest tilework in the world Study a millennium of Central Asian architecture in Bukhara, beginning with the glorious Samanid Mausoleum, the word's oldest surviving Islamic tomb Wander through the atmospheric bazaars of Bukhara, feasting our eyes upon a rich variety of traditional arts and crafts, from jewellery to the famous Bukhara carpets that so fascinated 19th and 20th Century European Museum and aristocratic collectors Become fascinated by the history of the silk route as we trace the origins of contemporary Central Asian arts and crafts through millennia of trade from her great mercantile cities. We will further explore the history, geography and the many famous travellers who wrote in detail about the region, including Marco Polo, Ibn Battuta and Armin Vambery, through a series of additional lectures Visit Urgut village Sunday market - little known to western travellers - a traditional Central Asian bazaar selling very fine old textiles; we will further explore the fascinating history of silk and domestic and nomadic textiles and costumes in additional lectures Get to know local potters, weavers, embroiderers and rug makers at their private workshops, learn to read particular motifs and distinguish special textiles like Uzbekistan's famous suzani. In Nukus view the Savitsky Karakalpakstan State Art Museum, holder of one of the greatest collections in the world of early modernist Russian art, whose survival hinged on being hidden in Central Asia by Soviet citizens exiled to the gulag. Enjoy the lovely old city of Khiva, with her mud-brick walls, vividly tiled palaces, beautiful mosques, shrines and tombs, and towering Central Asian minarets Beyond the fertile delta of the Oxus we drive to the isolated village of Chimbai, rarely visited by western travellers, to meet a family of yurt makers, some of the last artisans in Central Asia, beyond the borders of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Mongolia.

Overview

Together, we’ll explore the wonders of Central Asia, a region famed in antiquity for her wealth and splendour. Great oasis cities, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva, their names so redolent of mystery, luxury and the glamour of the Orient, reveal an incredible culture and rich history to all who venture inside their gates: turquoise blue tilework, glorious minarets, brooding fortresses, all set in a stark landscape of verdant green fed by sparkling irrigation canals bringing life from lifeless deserts.

This extraordinary contrasting landscape has created a visual culture for the region, expressing joy and meaning through colour, pattern and fabric of bright costumes still worn by Uzbek women. We will be joined by guest lecturer, Iain Shearer, who has excavated and travelled widely throughout Central Asia. Together we’ll explore glorious monuments in golden Samarkand, including the exquisite tomb of Timur Lang (Marlow’s Tamburlaine), an incredible royal cemetery at Shah-e Zinda, home to some of the most exquisite tilework in the world, the Sogdian city of Afrosiyab, site of some of the most fabulous and well preserved frescos to rival Pompeii.

We visit the great Registan, built by Timur Lang to glorify his victories and described by Curzon as the “finest ensemble of Islamic building in the world.” We’ll see traditional hand embroidered suzanis in Samarkand and Bukhara and glorious bazaars, still echoing to timeless rhythms. Noble Bukhara is an almost complete trading city of the 16th, 17th and 18th Century, filled with domes, madrasa and an ancient Jewish quarter, with a community dating back to the Exile to Babylon 2500 years ago. We’ll visit potters, metalworkers, carpet weavers and miniature painters and contemplate how people in Central Asia respond to the stimulus of a harsh, cruel and dramatic environment. We’ll stay in an ancient restored traditional house in the middle of ancient Khiva, a timeless mudbrick oasis city of domes, mosques, palaces and winding alleys. Finally we travel to the Karakalpak city of Nukus to visit the State Art Museum, a treasure house of Russian early modernist art that escaped the Stalinist purges.

Travel in the footsteps of Alexander the Great, Timur Lang, Marco Polo, Stoddart and Connolly and experience a world which has drawn so many famous travellers.

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Leaders Russell Casey

A dedicated traveller with a passion for the Middle East, Iran & Central Asia. Russell has studied French, German, Japanese, Arabic, Persian & Mandarin & led our Silk Road & Central Asian tours since 2009.

Russell Casey has led the ASA Silk Route tour since 2009. He has been fascinated by the Middle East, Persia, Central Asia and the Silk Route since studying Latin at school. After independently visiting Turkey, Syria and Jordan, Russell travelled to Iran on the ASA Art and Culture of Persia tour in 2002. In 2005 after completing the ASA Silk Route tour, he continued onto Iran to further his understanding of Persian speaking peoples and their arts, architecture, gardens and cuisine. Russell has a keen interest in languages, studying French, German, Japanese, Arabic, Persian and Chinese (Mandarin). He holds a Queensland Ambulance Service first aid certificate, and a Master’s degree in Medical Physics and is undertaking independent study in the art, history and culture of Central Asia, the Silk Route and surrounding regions. He now consults in radiation protection and eHealth which includes including working as an expert advisor to the IAEA.

Iain Shearer

Archaeologist in North Africa, Balkans, Central Asia, China, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India & Middle East, British Museum Sackler Scholar, Royal Asiatic Society fellow & guidebook author (Iran), he is ASA's Academic Coordinator.

ASA Academic Coordinator

Iain Shearer is an archaeologist who has always been fascinated by the many cultures and stories to be unearthed and explored within the Islamic World. During the last 20 years, he has worked as an archaeologist in North Africa, the Balkans, Central Asia, China, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and the Arab Middle East and was appointed a Fellow of The Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland in 2008.

Iain has successfully led a number of tours for the British Museum, The Traveller, ACE Cultural Tours and Distant Horizons across the Maghreb, the Arab Middle East, Iran and Central Asia, and was the Lonely Planet author for the Saudi Arabia and Hajj guides in 2009, as well as the upcoming edition for 2013, Lonely Planet Iran 2012 and the author of the forthcoming updated Bradt guide to Iran. Iain is passionate about exploring and explaining the thrilling histories and cultures of the Arabic, Persian and Turkic speaking peoples and hosted an episode of National Geographic and Lonely Planet's Roads Less Travelled to Kazakhstan, which still lurks darkly in the nether regions of cable television, airline entertainment systems and the internet. He recently left the Middle East department of The British Museum where he was the Sackler Scholar for Afghanistan and Iran and is currently dividing his time between Sydney, the UK, the Maghreb, the Middle East and Central Asia.

See YouTube short documentaries by Iain Shearer

Cathedral of Holy Ascension in Almaty, Kazahkstan, Lonely Planet travel writer Exploring the Green Market in Almaty, Kazakhstan, Lonely Planet travel writer

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Itinerary The detailed itinerary provides an outline of the proposed daily program. Participants should note that the daily activities described in this itinerary may be rotated and/or modified in order to accommodate changes in museum opening hours, flight schedules & road conditions.Meals will be taken in hotels and in restaurants, many with a historical or local flavour. At times picnic lunches will be provided. All meals are included in the tour price and are indicated in the itinerary where: B=breakfast, L=lunch and D=evening meal.

Tashkent - 2 nights Day 1: Tuesday 23 September, Arrive Tashkent Welcome meeting & refreshments Orientation tour Keflsashi Complex Barak Khan Madrasa Tila Shaikh Mosque & Archives (Osman Qur’an)

Participants travelling on the ASA ‘designated’ flight are scheduled to arrive in Tashkent in the early afternoon. Upon arrival we shall transfer by private coach to the Hotel Dedeman Silk Road. Tashkent is the capital of Uzbekistan. A city was founded on its site in the 1st century BC and became a major entrepôt after the Arab conquest in 751. However little remains of historic Tashkent. It was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1966 and rebuilt in grandiose Soviet style. It is currently the fourth largest city in the Commonwealth of Independent States with a population of 2.3 million.

After settling into our hotel there will be a welcome meeting and refreshments, followed by a short orientation tour of the city. This will include a visit to the Keflashi Complex and the Barak-khan madrasa complex, different parts of which were constructed from the 16th to 17th centuries. One of the earliest sections is a large mausoleum-khanaka (1530), crowned with double cupola on crossing arches. A member of the Sheybanid dynasty, Suyunidj-khan (Ulugh Beg’s grandson) built it. Suyunidj-khan’s son Nauruz-Akhmed, transformed the complex in the 16th century. The madrasa is organised around a central courtyard but has distinctive features such as majolica and brick mosaic wall decorations and windows enlivened with diverse painted geometrical ornament. We shall also visit the Tila Shaikh Mosque, which contains an antique Qur’an manuscript brought to Central Asia by Timur (Tamerlane). It is one of the oldest surviving Qur’ans in the world. Tonight we dine together at the hotel’s restaurant. (Overnight Tashkent) D

Day 2: Wednesday 24 September, Tashkent Morning Talk: The Silk Road

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Kulkadesh Madrasa Tashkent Fine Art Museum Akbar Ceramic Museum and Workshop Memorial House Museum of Tamara Khanum

Today’s program begins with a morning talk setting your tour within the general context of the history of the Silk Road. We shall then visit the Kulkadesh Madrasa (exterior only). The madrasa, built in 1506, was modeled upon the Ulugh Beg Madrasa in Samarkand. Recently restored, it has a fine tiled façade and entrance. Within may be glimpsed a large domed courtyard and the Kukeldash Djuma Mosque.

Our morning’s program concludes with a visit to the Tashkent Fine Art Museum that holds a collection of the finest textiles in Uzbekistan, including magnificent embroidered suzani, ikat robes and gold embroidery.

After lunch at a local restaurant we visit the house factory of the master ceramicist Akbar. Situated in the old city, it contains a small ceramic museum and workshop. Here you will learn how the styles and techniques of Central Asia’s fine ceramic traditional are not only being preserved but also inspiring new, innovative forms.

Our final visit today is to the house museum of Tamara Khanum (1906-1991), an Uzbek folk dancer and singer of Armenian origin who was the first Uzbekistani woman to perform publicly without a veil. Tamara became a soloist at the Uzbek Philharmonic at the age of 30 and became active in the reform of Uzbek national dance. She gained international fame, however, by collecting the folk dances and songs of diverse nations. She was a quick learner, and could perform a piece like a native within a few days of first encountering it. She amassed her own collection of national dresses including those from the Balkans, China and much of Asia, and even Egypt that are displayed in the museum. (Overnight Tashkent) BLD

Samarkand - 4 nights Day 3: Thursday 25 September, Tashkent – Samarkand Mausoleum of Timur (Gur-i Mir) Registan (evening view of exterior)

We depart this morning by private coach for Samarkand. After lunch we visit one of the city’s finest monuments, the Mausoleum of Timur. We may also make a short visit to see the majestic Registan at sunset.

Samarkand, the most famous of Central Asian cities, stands on the site of pre-Islamic Afrasiyab, a Sogdian city that flourished in the centuries before the Islamic conquest. Excavations have unearthed terracotta heads and mural paintings in the ruins of a palace from the Sogdian era. After conquering the region in 710, the Muslims constructed a Mesopotamian-style citadel in Afrasiyab, similar to the famous round royal city of Baghdad. In the 9th and 10th centuries the Persian Samanid lineage governed Samarkand and Bukhara.

Persian Islamic art, architecture and culture flowered in both cities. The Turkic Qarakhanids (Karakhanids) succeeded the Samanids as masters of Samarkand in 999. The Mongolic / Manchurian Qara Khitai (Kara-Kitan) and Turkic Khwarazm Shahs then subjected Samarkand in turn. The city prospered as one of the most important Central Asian entrepots from the 9th to the 13th century. Not only was it prominent in the Eurasian trade but was also the administrative heart of Transoxania and a centre for the production of paper and ceramics. It was supported by an extensive agricultural hinterland watered by a sophisticated irrigation system. During this period numerous palaces, mosques, markets, caravanserais and baths were constructed here. As in Bukhara, mausoleums, madrasas and khanqahs (Sufi lodges) were gradually added as Islamic architecture diversified.

The city, however, suffered immensely from the Mongol invasions. The Mongols warned all cities that unless they surrendered unconditionally, they would be razed to the ground. The first Muslim cities in their path, Samarkand, Balkh, Herat and Nishapur, failed to realize the deadly seriousness of the Mongol threat and were totally destroyed. Regional agriculture also endured a major setback as a result of Mongol ravaging of the countryside. From the arrival of the Mongols in 1220 until the rise of Timur (Tamerlane) in the mid-14th century, the area of Samarkand remained desolate. The spread of the Black Death compounded this dire situation.

Despite these tribulations, the region remained strategically and commercially viable and agriculturally important and in 1369 Timur selected Samarkand as the capital of his emerging Asian empire. Timur resolved to make it the most beautiful city in the universe, a centre for Islamic art, architecture and culture, a veritable ‘paradise on Earth’. To achieve this he forcibly transferred here artisans and craftsmen from the many areas he conquered. Persians, Syrian Arabs and Anatolian Turks all participated in the reconstruction of the city according to Timur’s grandiose vision.

They constructed much of the vast theatrical main square of the city, Timur’s mausoleum, the Bibi Khanum mosque dedicated to his wife, and numerous other mosques, madrasas and mausoleums, cladding each in luxurious polychrome tile skins as a statement of the wealth and power of Timur. Succeeding Timurids and Uzbeks perpetuated the dazzling opulence of Timur’s city, adding new mosques,

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madrasas and mausoleums to the urban fabric. One great builder was Timur’s grandson Ulugh Beg who added a large madrasa, the portal of the Shah-i Zindeh Cemetery, and an observatory, the design of which was repeated many times in India. To this great corpus the Timurids’ successors added many resplendent monuments that we shall also view in the city. They continue the Timurid style, with majestic portals, towers and lobed domes all cloaked in shimmering tiles of blue, turquoise, yellow and white. As we explore Samarkand we shall trace the development of Timurid form, decoration and function and their symbolism. (Overnight Samarkand) BLD

Day 4: Friday 26 September, Samarkand Registan and its Madrasas Abdullah’s carpet workshop Fashion Parade at Alfiya’s Gallery

This morning commences with a visit to the Registan and its three madrasas: the Ulugh Beg Madrasa (1417–1420), the Sher-Dor Madrasa (1619–1636) and the Tilya-Kori Madrasa (1646–1660). The Ulugh Beg Madrasa’s pishtaq (façade), decorated with geometrical stylized forms centres on an imposing iwan and is framed by high minarets. The square courtyard within includes a mosque and lecture rooms fringed by dormitory cells for students. Four deep iwans dominate its axes.

The 17th-century ruler, Yalangtush Bakhodur, constructed of the Sher-Dor Madrasa opposite the Ulugh Beg Madrasa and the Tillya- Kori Madrasa at right angles to it to form the present monumental complex.Tiger motif mosaics in the spandrels of the Sher-Dor’s pishtaq flout Islam’s proscription of the depiction of living beings on religious buildings. The Tilya-Kori acted not only as a madrasa but also a grand mosque. It has a two-storied main façade and a vast courtyard fringed by dormitory cells, with the usual four iwans on its axes. The mosque building, whose main hall is abundantly gilded, occupies the western flank of the building.

After lunch we visit a local carpet workshop that produces silk carpets using traditional dyes and weaving techniques. You will meet the workers and the organizers of the factory and see at close hand the production of hand-knotted carpets. We will then attend a fashion parade of contemporary Uzbek fashion design at Alfiya’s Gallery. (Overnight Samarkand) BLD

Day 5: Saturday 27 September, Samarkand Bibi Khanum Mosque Cemetery of Shah-i Zindeh Afrasiyab Museum Ulugh Beg Observatory Samarkand theatre of historical costume El Merosi

We begin with a visit to the Bibi Khanum Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world. This enormous structure, which is orientated on an axis between a vast entrance portal and a huge domed prayer hall, has recently been restored with the aid of UNESCO. Its vast scale gives a vivid impression of Timur’s megalomania. Situated next to the mosque is one of the busiest markets in Uzbekistan. Every now and then travelling acrobats entertain the large crowds that visit the market to buy food, wool and every other conceivable commodity.

Next, we shall visit the Shah-i Zindeh cemetery, the ‘city of the dead’ that Timur created as a family burial complex; it contains 25 mausoleums. The Shah-i Zindeh cemetery is one of the most resplendent necropoli in the Islamic world. Although smaller than the great cities of the dead in Cairo, its intense and unified architecture inspires visions of worldly wealth and of paradise, the twin goals of Timur. Its most important feature is the tile work that covers many of the tomb façades, arguably the greatest single collection of architectural ceramics in the world. The predominant colour is blue, worked in myriad gorgeous hues by the craftsmen whom Timur collected during his conquests and transported to his ideal city.

After lunch we visit the fascinating Afrasiyab Museum and the Ulugh Beg Obseratory. When the Muslims invaded this region they destroyed the earlier Sogdian city of Afrasiyab, which is now a huge mound on Samarkand’s flank. The Sogdians had been renowned traders along the Silk Route and consequently their material culture absorbed motifs from as far apart as Persia and China. Although little remains of the former city, one corpus of wall paintings has survived, preserved in a purpose-built museum. Some depict processions of courtiers and merchants wearing fabulously rich textiles, many of them obviously silks of the highest quality. These paintings will give you an invaluable insight into early Central Asian textiles and the culture that produced and traded them.

Nearby is the Ulugh Beg Observatory where the heavens were charted. Ulugh Beg’s astronomical research that was carried out here was still being used by Europeans in the 17th century.

In the early evening we visit Samarkand’s theatre of historical costume, El Merosi, to review the textile and clothing history of Central Asia. Costumes as varied as those of Achaemenid soldiers, nomadic warriors and Sogdians merchants are based upon various archaeological investigations (including the reliefs at Persepolis and finds at the ancient city of Afrosiab) and ancient art works such as Persian miniatures and the designs on pottery. The show will also give you interesting insights into how modern Uzbeks view their own

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history. (Overnight Samarkand) BLD

Day 6: Sunday 28 September, Samarkand – Urgut – Kohni Ghil Village – Samarkand Urgut village Sunday market Handmade Paper Making, Kohni Ghil Village Private home of textile merchant, Mr Gulom

This morning we drive out of Samarkand to a Sunday market in the village of Urgut. Few tourists visit such village markets, at which locals from the surrounding countryside sell their produce and buy provisions. Such local markets are the backbone of provincial commerce, and everything produced and needed in the region is sold in them. There are potters, tinkers, cobblers, tailors, carpenters, vendors of all kinds of vegetables, fruit and animals, teahouses and people selling an extraordinary variety of prepared food often cooked on open stoves. Of greatest importance to us are the textile stalls, especially those that sell magnificent suzani (needle point embroidery). These richly coloured hangings once graced the interiors of nomadic tents (yurts) but are also used by locals to decorate the interiors of their houses.

After visiting the Urgut market we make a special excursion to nearby Khoni Ghil village to observe the production of special Samarkand handmade paper. This UNESCO project has involved the restoration of an old water mill in which an ancient art is now practiced. When the Arabs defeated a Chinese army at the Battle of the River Talas in 751, it is said that they captured artisans and equipment for making paper something the Chinese perfected a millennium before its introduction to the West. Samarkand became the first Islamic city to manufacture paper, a development of untold significance for global intellectual history. This project will therefore give you a unique view of a time-honoured and extremely historically important practice.

At lunchtime we visit the private home of Mr Gulom, who specializes in trading old and new textiles. Here we shall view his private textile collection and eat lunch. The remainder of the afternoon will be at leisure to allow you to explore more of Samarkand, especially the stalls selling textiles, ceramics, musical instruments and myriad other objects. (Overnight Samarkand) BLD

Bukhara - 4 nights Day 7: Monday 29 September, Samarkand – Gijduvan – Bukhara Kizilkum Desert House of Potter Alisher, Gijduvan

Today we drive for six hours across the Kizilkum Desert to Bukhara, known as Bukhara ash-Sharif, ‘the noble’. Along the way we stop at the oasis town of Gijduvan, an important ceramic centre, known for the distinctive designs and coloration of its ceramics. We shall visit a family operation in a large rustic courtyard house, watch the potters at work (a donkey turns the wheel which mixes their clay), and the firing in kilns of centuries-old designs. Gijduvan is also known for its distinctive suzani made by the local women and also displayed at the potter’s house. It is certainly not a typical Western industrial centre but a small, isolated artisanal village surrounded by vast desert. (Overnight Bukhara) BLD

Day 8: Tuesday 30 September, Bukhara Khanqah of Nadir Divan Beg Taq-i Sarrafon Maghak-i Attari Mosque Taq-i Tilpak Furushan (Market of the Headgear Sellers) Tim Abdullah display center Metal chaser shop Madrasa of Ulugh Beg Madrasa of Abd al-Aziz Khan Taq-i Zargaran (Jewellers Market) Kalyan Complex Madrasa of Miri Arab

Archaeologists have found evidence of human habitation in communities spread around the Bukhara oasis from as early as 3,000 BC, long before Bukhara enters written history in 500 BC. Around 1,700 BC outlying local communities fused with Aryan settlers, moving into the inner oasis. Thenceforth, we recognize the local population as Sogdian. For the next millennium the Sogdians, living in city- states along the Zeravshan Valley, dominated the central part of the Silk Route, trading East as far as China. By 500 BC Bukhara had become a vassal state (satrap) of the Achaemenid (Persian) Empire and later became part of the Empire of Alexander the Great, his Seleucid successors, the Greco-Bactrians, and the Kushan Empire. At this time it was a cult centre of the Zoroastrian goddess Anahita. Later, after the fall of the Kushan Empire, the city, now subject to Turko-Mongolian incursions, became a centre of Manichaeism and

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Nestorian Christianity. The city at this time constituted a fortress mound, a temple, markets and circular outer walls.

Slowly integrated into the Islamic world after the Battle of Talas (751 AD), Bukhara became the capital of the great Persian Samanid Empire (c. 850). Rivalling Baghdad in the richness of its culture, it became the centre of the Islamic world, especially when Mohammad Al-Bukhari, a native of the city, collected the hadith (sayings and observances of the Prophet) there. It also became a centre of Central Asia’s most important Sufi order, the Naqshbandi. At this time it rivaled Cairo, Córdoba and Baghdad in population.

In 999, the Turkic Qarakhanids (Karakhanids) toppled the Samanids and like Samarkand, Bukhara subsequently was subject to the Mongolic / Manchurian Qara Khitai (Kara-Kitan) and Turkic Khwarazm Shahs. It was plundered by Chinghis Kahn and integrated into the Mongolian Chagatid state and later into the Timurid realm; Timur embellished Samarkand to the detriment of Bukhara. The city emerged as the capital of the Khanate of Bukhara, ruled by the Shaybanid Dynasty (1500 – 1598). It was later ruled by the Uzbek Manghit dynasty. Between 1785 and 1920 it became the Emirate of Bukhara. Like Samarkand, Bukhara, centring on a citadel (ark), was embellished with richly decorated monuments.

It has one of the oldest Islamic tombs in existence, the Samanid Mausoleum, and the minaret of its Friday mosque is a Qarakhanid masterpiece. These two buildings were constructed using the usual materials of the Central Asian steppe, brick. The Samanids applied traditional Iranian architectural styles, decorated using brick relief, in a new Islamic context. This type of architecture endured until the Mongol period when Muslim artisans started to produce tiles and embellish buildings with them. In the 12th century two additional institutions developed, the madrasa or theological college, the first of which was founded in Baghdad in 1096, and the khanqah or Sufi retreat. Architecturally, madrasas and khanqahs were often similar and it is usually their location within a city that confirms their function. Initially tiles were used to highlight and accentuate brick relief patterns but over time tile mosaics in blue, green, yellow, black and white replaced brick relief entirely. Timur completed this transformation by sheathing entire buildings in tile skins, a practice which spread all over Iran and Afghanistan and into northern India.

Successors to the Timurids built many madrasas, and the city also retains vestiges of its extensive Bazaar. Without the commerce which passed through this vital throbbing heart, typical of all the desert cities on the silk route, Bukhara and its sister cities would never have survived or flourished. Rulers invested great sums in market infrastructure, in the provision of covered market areas, warehousing and shelter for merchants and the revenues from the markets enabled them to enrich the city with monuments.

Today we shall visit three types of monumental complexes. The first is the great Kalyan mosque and minaret. The second is a group of madrasas and khanqahs, many of which now house textile shops. The third is the bazaar, which has been functioning for a millennium. These three types of complexes were originally interdependent in that the rents from stalls in markets were used to support the religious institutions. Although the madrasas and khanqahs were suppressed by the Soviets, their architecture was nevertheless restored and provides a stunning complement to the great monuments you have seen in Samarkand. (Overnight Bukhara) BLD

Day 9: Wednesday 1 October, Bukhara Samanid Mausoleum Chasma Ayyub Mausoleum Char Minar Madrasa Hunarmand UNDP workshop Gold embroidery workshop Afternoon at leisure Nadikhon Devan Begi Madrasa

We continue our exploration of Bukhara with visits to the Samanid Mausoleum, the Chasma Ayyub Mausoleum, Balakhauz Mosque and the Char Minar. Built in 1809, the Char Minar was once the gate of an ancient madrasa, and takes its name from its four decorative towers.

The morning’s program concludes with a visit to the Hunarmand UNDP Assisted workshops near Lyabikhauz. Here we may see block printing on dasterkhawn, metal chasing, suzani embroidery and wood carving. We will also visit a gold embroidery workshop.

The afternoon will be at leisure, allowing ample time to explore the bazaars. The nomadic carpets in Bukhara are inexpensive compared to those available in Australia. This evening we attend a show at the Nadikhon Devan Begi Madrasa. (Overnight Bukhara) BLD

Day 10: Thursday 2 October, Bukhara Ark (Citadel) Sitora-i-Mokhikhosa, Summer Residence of the Former Emir of Bukhara Dinner at Akbar’s House

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Today’s program commences with a visit to Bukhara’s Ark, the palace complex from which the city, like most Central Asian cities, was ruled. One of the profoundly interesting features of much of the architecture you will see in Bukhara is that its magnificent tile work includes Chinese motifs like dragons, which were traditionally not a Central Asian form. These motifs travelled with people and objects along the Silk Road. For example, it is highly likely that the tile-makers of Bukharan monuments were inspired by motifs they saw on Chinese textiles.

After lunch at a local restaurant we make an excursion to Bukhara’s city limits to visit Sitora-i-Mokhikhosa, the summer residence of the Former Emir of Bukhara. There is a section in the residence where a rare collection of suzani is on display.

Dinner will be hosted at Akbar’s House, a traditional Bukharan house in the old Jewish quarter. Here you will be able to see a fine collection of textiles and have the opportunity to purchase some prized pieces for your own collection. (Overnight Bukhara) BLD

Khiva - 2 nights Day 11: Friday 3 October, Bukhara – Khiva Today we make a long drive across the Kizilkum Desert to the region of Khorezm in the far west of Uzbekistan, near the Aral Sea. Khorezm was isolated from the oases of the east by desert and therefore for much of its history followed an independent course. We drive most of the day to reach the city of Khiva, stopping along the way for a picnic lunch. At times we shall be able to see the Amu Darya, known in antiquity as the Oxus, which winds to the south of the desert. (Overnight Khiva) BLD

Day 12: Saturday 4 October, Khiva Ichon Qala Gates, Walls and Kalta Minor Kukhana Ark Madrasa Rakhimkhon Hunarmand handicraft workshops Mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud Islam Khodja Minaret Tosh Khovil Palace & Caravanserai Juma Mosque

We spend the day in the ancient city of Khiva that, through Soviet restoration, is physically the most uniform of all Central Asian cities. Although initially this restoration as a museum made it somewhat sterile, the city is now being re-inhabited by artisans who are using its lovely buildings as workshops. One of these, a carpet weaving and suzani project, is particularly fascinating. Its organizers have researched original plant dyes which are gathered from the fields around Khiva and also the representations of Central Asian carpets in European paintings and Persian miniatures. The designs of the carpets it makes reproduce the carpets depicted in these works of art. There will also be ample time to see local fabrics and ceramics for sale in the bazaar.

Khiva is located on the fertile Amu-Darya river delta and served trade passing to the Caspian Sea and beyond to the Volga River and thus to Eastern Europe. It is now divided into two sections, Ichon Qala, the old walled city and modern Khiva. This ancient Khwarazmian city emerged as a major centre when Ilbars, the Shaybanid Uzbek, made it his capital in 1512. Ilbars modeled the monuments he built on the great Timurid buildings of Bukhara and Samarkand and his successors maintained this practice through to the 19th century. Among Khiva’s most interesting monuments is the Juma Mosque, parts of which date to the 10th century. A feature of the mosque is its hall of wood columns, an Arabo-Islamic detail. (Overnight Khiva) BLD

Nukus - 1 night Day 13: Sunday 5 October, Khiva – Nukus Savitsky Karakalpakstan State Art Museum, Nukus

Today we drive west to Nukus, capital of the Autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan, Uzbekistan’s westernmost region. Along the way we may view Shilpyk Kala, a Zoroastrian Ring of Silence (tower tomb).

In the past, Kara-Kalpaks lived in small villages, inhabitants of which were all relatives belonging to the same kin. These settlements were located along the region’s irrigation canals. Traditional housing was the yurt and along with it there was another kind of shelter made from a frame filled with reeds. Its walls and roof were patched with clay. In recent years, these types of settlements have changed. Contemporary Kara-Kalpak villages now have houses with big windows, wooden floors, electricity, water, natural gas and sewerage. Yurts can only be found in villages where they are used as summer housing. Carpets, bright blankets, ceramic and porcelain dishes with painted mosaics create an atmosphere of beauty in modern Kara-Kalpak houses.

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Only the elderly preserve traditional dress. Ancient Kara-Kalpak dresses are very colourful, especially women’s headgear and head coverings. Contemporary style is, for the most part, European with stylish forms of traditional dress preserved in forms of women’s short skirts. The history of the unique handicrafts of the Kara-Kalpak people goes back centuries. From ancient times, the art of wood engraving, leather processing, weaving and embroidery were highly developed. The decorations of Kara-Kalpak yurts include carpets, stair-carpets, rugs, loom-work of soft brown, purple, soft green, and yellow colours.

In the afternoon we shall visit an extraordinary museum, hosted by its director, Marinika Babanazarova. Founded in 1966, the Savitsky Karakalpakstan State Art Museum comprises a collection of over 95,000 pieces, including Uzbek fine arts, applied Kara-Kalpak folk art, and ancient art from the region of Khorezem. The museum represents the life’s work of the Moscovite painter/archaeologist Igor Vitalyevich Savitsky who moved to Nukus in the mid 1950s. It also houses a priceless collection of early 20th century Russian avant- garde paintings; many of their counterparts in Russia were destroyed during the Stalinist era and these survived due to Nukus’ isolation. (Overnight Nukus) BLD

Tashkent - 2 nights Day 14: Monday 6 October, Nukus – Chimbai – Tashkent Yurt-making family of Karimbai, Chimbai village Yurt band decoration weavers of Khudaibergen Gulnara Handicraft Display Centre Flight Nukus to Tashkent

This morning we drive out to the isolated village of Chimbai to the Karimbai family where their son, Kural, runs a workshop which makes yurts for nomadic families. Yurt-making is a dying art in Uzbekistan. The yurts are made for villagers who live in the desert during the summer cattle breeding season. We shall also visit the family house of yurt band decoration weavers of Khudaibergen.

After lunch at our hotel, we visit the Gulnara Handicraft Centre where we can see needlepoint embroidery of Krakalpakstan, suzani, handkerchief making and other household items with embroidery. In the early evening we take a domestic flight to Tashkent. (Overnight Tashkent) BLD

Day 15: Tuesday 7 October, Tashkent Madrasa Abdul Kassim (with artisanal workshops) Museum of Applied Arts Afternoon at leisure Evening Lecture: Concluding seminar Farewell Evening Meal at the Caravan Restaurant

We shall spend the morning visiting Tashkent’s museums, monuments & workshops. Our program includes visits to the Museum of Applied Arts and the Madrasa Abdul Kassim which has workshops producing a wide range of objects, including intricately painted boxes, woodcarving and metalwork.

Following some time at leisure in the afternoon, we shall conclude our program with a final seminar followed by a farewell evening meal at the Caravan Restaurant. (Overnight Tashkent) BLD

Day 16: Wednesday 8 October, Tour ends in Tashkent In the morning we shall transfer to Tashkent airport to take our flight home. We are scheduled to depart mid-morning. B

Ferghana - 4 nights The Ferghana Valley Post-Tour Extension

8 – 13 October 2014 A 6-day post-tour extension, led by local guides, focusing on the textiles and ceramics of the Ferghana Valley.

Introduction

This 6-day tour extension visits the rich, populous Ferghana Valley. The Ferghana Valley achieved almost mythic meaning in antiquity as the place where the heavenly horses prized by the Chinese Han Dynasty were bred. China was assailed by the Xiongnu (possibly

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Huns), a nomadic people on its northern borders. Like most Turko-Mongolians, they were excellent horseback fighters. China’s lack of open pasture made it almost impossible to breed strong, large-framed cavalry mounts, so the Chinese emperors sent an envoy, Zhang Qian to the Ferghana around 130 BC, and thereafter attempted to import horses from the Valley. They were wild, powerful, and purportedly sweated blood! Whatever the status and practical military value of Ferghana’s famous horses, this long valley, carved through the high mountain ranges by the tributaries of the Syr Darya, the Naryn and Kara Darya, is one of the most fertile and populous regions in Central Asia. A territory of Uzbekistan that is located between Kyrgysztan and Tajikistan, it has a fascinating ethnic mix of Uzbeks, Tajiks, Kyrgyz, Uighurs and Kazaks, all of whom are Turkic, except for the Persian Tajiks. This polyglot population derives, in large part, from the fact that the Ferghana is not only very fertile, but also a vital corridor linking Xinjiang province of China (East Central Asia or East Turkistan) to West Central Asia. It was long a vital conduit for Silk Route trade and was coursed by conquerors as diverse as the Chinese, Persians, Greeks, Kushans, Arabs and Tibetans, to name but a few. Always a contested territory, it eventually was controlled by the independent Uzbek khanate of Kokand, which fell to the Russians in the 19th century.

The Ferghana’s scenery is spectacular. Views of its green fields, long poplar plantations, lines of mulberry trees (for silk) and many villages are always backed by the high, vast Tien Shan Range that runs from this part of the world right across Central Asia to the north of China. The valley’s large population lives in villages that line its major roads. Everywhere, these are made up of typically Central Asian courtyard houses surrounded by orchards and mulberry plantations. You’ll also see many small mosques and teahouses; the latter are major nodes of social interaction for local men. Ferghana’s high population concentration means that everywhere we shall encounter bustling bazaars that are famous throughout Inner Asia.

Uzbek folk art has a long history stretching back centuries. It evinces has a wealth of variety in style, materials and ornamentation. In the past, each region had its own cultural and ethnic traditions. Unique features were established by local guilds who strengthened these characteristics over time. It was possible to recognise where someone came from by his tyubeteika (embroidered skull-cap), the colour and style of his chapan (gown). The embroidery in a house meanwhile identified the housewife’s or her mother’s birthplace.

The Itinerary

The following itinerary describes a range of museums, homes and historic monuments which we plan to visit. Many are accessible to the public, but others require special permission which may only be confirmed closer to the tour’s departure. The daily activities described in this itinerary may change or be rotated and/or modified in order to accommodate alterations in opening hours, flight schedules and confirmation of private visits. Participants will receive a final itinerary together with their tour documents prior to departure. All meals are included in the tour price and are indicated in the itinerary where: B=breakfast, L=lunch and D=evening meal.

Day 1: Wednesday 8 October, Tashkent – Andijan – Ferghana Flight from Tashkent – Andijan Hunarmand Centre (Andijan Handicrafts Centre) Babur Literary Museum, Andijan Workshop of Muxiuddinov Abdumalik

Early this morning we transfer by private coach to Tashkent airport to take our flight to Andijan in the south-eastern part of the Ferghana Valley. The city, which stands on ancient deposits of the Andijon River, dates back at least to the 9th century. In the 15th century it became the capital of the Ferghana Valley and, being on the Silk Road caravan route to China, was a chief centre of trade and handicrafts. In the 18th century it became part of the khanate of Kokand and in 1876 Andijan was captured by the Russians.

Babur, founder of India’s great Mughul Dynasty, wrote of the city:

‘There are seven cities in Ferghana valley. Five of them are situated on the southern bank of the Seykhun River, while the other two stand on its northern bank. One of the southern cities is Andijan, just in the middle. This is the capital of Ferghana valley. Bread is abundant there and the fruit is rich, while melons and grapes are the best. In Maverannakhr, besides Samarkand and Kesh, there is no fortress bigger than Andijan. There are three gates, and the citadel is located in the southern part. Water comes to the city by nine canals; and the most amazing thing is that it does not drain anywhere. The people of Andijan are all Turks; there is no one in the city or in the market who cannot speak Turkic. The spoken language is very close to its literary variant. Alisher Navoi’s works are written in this language though he was brought up in Herat.’

In 1902 Andijan suffered a terrible earthquake and was subsequently rebuilt. Of its historical monuments – only the Jami madrasa remains. Today Andijan is one of the biggest industrial centres of Uzbekistan. Many modern industrial enterprises are located here including the manufacture of cars, cotton and textiles. The city is surrounded with fruit gardens, cotton and wheat fields.

We shall commence our tour of Andijan with a visit to the Andijan Handicrafts Centre where we shall meet its director, Younusova Manzura. The workshop includes examples of doll-making, suzani embroidery, chupan-making, hat embroidery and silk weaving. Manzura has set up a creative group in what was originally a wealthy 20th-century merchant’s mansion. The activity of the group involves the revival of boldosozlik Andijan jewellery restoration, bosma chalk and iroqi chalk embroidery weaving of bekasam and

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adras.

The morning’s program concludes with a visit to the museum of the great leader and adventurer Babur. Babur lost his Ferghana kingdom to the Uzbeks (c. 1500) and was forced to flee across the Himalayas to northern India. He never gave up the dream of regaining his native land, but this was not to be. The Mughal dynasty enriched Indian culture with strains of Central Asian culture which the great Akbar fused with indigenous Hindu forms. The museum was opened in 1989 on the site of his residence to celebrate the 460th year of the publication of his autobiographical Baburname, published in English as The Memoirs of Babur.

This afternoon we drive to Baghe-i-Shumal to visit the private workshop of Muxiuddinov Abdumalik, a metal-chaser and master knife- maker. Here, we may also see his wife’s skull-cap embroidery, and his son’s jewellery. Uzbek craftsmen of today still practice ancient jewellery making techniques for gemstone cutting, grain filigree, granular work, engraving, embossing, chasing and enameling.

In the late afternoon we continue our journey by coach to Ferghana. We shall drive along roads lined, at regular intervals, with villages made up of typical courtyard houses. The roads are flanked with endless lines of tall poplars and between them and the house walls are ditches to carry water and mulberry trees whose leaves are fed to silk worms to produce the precious thread of their cocoons. (Overnight Ferghana) BLD

Day 2: Thursday 9 October, Ferghana – Margilan – Ferghana Yodgarlik Silk Factory, Margilan Workshops at the Madrasa Ishan Hoja Margilan Bazaar The Ikat Handicraft Developing Centre – Fazlitdin Dadajanov (silk master)

In the second half of the 19th century weaving became Uzbekistan’s most highly developed handicraft. Bukhara, Namangan, Margilan, Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Kitab, Karshi, Khojent, Urgut and Khiva were all famous for their textiles. Cotton textiles such as kalami, alocha, susi and chit; semi-silk textiles such as bekasab, banoras, pasma, adras, duruya, yakruya, atlas and bakhmal, and silk textiles such as shoiy, atlas and khan-atlas were most popular. Woollen textiles were also manufactured for coats. Among the variety of textiles a notable place belongs to semi-silk Bukhara and Kokand velvet, Samarkand and Ferghana coverlets and the finest transparent silk shawls, kalgai. In 1896 the Ferghana Valley had around 600 silk-weaving workshops based in Margilan, Namangan and Kokand. By 1910, there were 1387 silk-weaving workshops with 3165 workers (including 911 workshops with 2570 workers in Margilan).

This morning we visit Margilan’s Yodgorlik Silk Factory to witness all steps in the manufacture of Central Asian silk. Employing over 2,000 workers working in the traditional manner, it produces an annual output of some 250,000 square metres of high premium silk cloth. The weavers from Margilan make semi-silk adras, plain silk shoi and world famous khan-atlas, blazing with all the colours of rainbow, or in exquisite black and white patterns with shining veins of blue or green.

In Margilan we also visit the Ishan Hoja Madrasa to see masters at work, including block-printer Shukurullah (son of Abdullaev Solidjon); Rasuljan Ahmedov and his son who are known for the rare Bakhmal weaving now found only in Margilan; carpet weaver Umida Apa and Sherezad, master of dyeing and knotting.

Block-printing is an art that came into existence many centuries ago. Printed cloth was originally used for serviceable items such as dresses, scarves, the lining of men’s gowns, tablecloths, bedspreads and for funeral shrouds. With the advent of industrialization this unique art almost became obsolete in Uzbekistan. Currently only Mr. Abdullaev Solidjon and his son from Margilan, the Rakhirnov brothers from Tashkent and the Ribyanov-Nikitina family from Samarkand are making traditionally block-printed textiles. The cotton fabric is initially saturated with a particular solution, and hand-carved wooden or rubber stamps (koliba) are used to apply the pattern. The stamp is pressed into a natural dye and then repeatedly applied to the material. Many of the varying designs incorporate fruit and animals. Mr. Solidjon and his son display their artistic flair by using antique wooden stamps for edging and adorning the central panels with unique modern designs that are seldom repeated.

This afternoon’s program includes a visit to the Margilan bazaar and to the Ikat Handicraft Developing Centre, where silk master Fazlitdin Dadajon will show us examples of ikat and bakhmal weaving. (Overnight Ferghana) BLD

Day 3: Friday 10 October, Ferghana – Shakrixon – Rishton – Ferghana Grand bazaar and knife-makers workshop, Shakrixon Blue ceramics of Rishton (Master Potters Rustam Usmanov and Alisher Nazirov)

In the Middle Ages a richly decorated belt knife whose handle would be encrusted with precious stones indicated courage and nobility among the military aristocracy. Bukhara arms and armor were of great value far beyond Central Asia. According to early Russian documents, Khiva and Bukhara merchants brought them as gifts to Moscow’s rulers. Illustrations in medieval miniatures as well as surviving examples show that ancient Bukhara and Samarkand knives had rather long and narrow blades with very sharp tips. The

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Ferghana valley was one of the earliest metal-working centres. A 10th century Arabian chronicler wrote that iron arms made in Ferghana were commonly used from Khorasan to Baghdad. Later, Ferghana armourers began to specialize in making knives and this craft is still practiced in Kokand, Andijan and other towns of Ferghana Valley.

This morning we travel to Shakrixon where we shall visit both the grand bazaar and a knife-makers workshop. Here the ancient craft of knife-making has been revived thanks to the fourth-generation master Rakhmatilla Eshon, and masters Rakhmatkhoja Alikhojaev and Ibrokhimjon Aliev. Fifteen types of knives are made here: straight and curved, clasp knives and fancy knives. The scabbards for Shakrixon knives are made of brass and copper. They are richly engraved and chased, encrusted with semi-precious stones and stained glass. The handles and scabbards of the most expensive knives are decorated with silver fretwork kumush sirpasta and chillikha.

Rishton is the oldest centre of ceramic art in Central Asia. Famous glazed earthenware invented here for local people household use is now exported widely. Examples vary in shape, ornamentation and colour. The most characteristic colouring is a turquoise, dark blue and brown scheme on a milky-white background. Ishkor glaze, made from ashes, gives the earthenware its beautiful soft sheen.

The Rishton ceramists’ mastery of hand-painted compositions seems inexhaustible. The paintings, which are done mostly in a freestyle manner, are based on direct observation of nature and the surrounding world. Each artist’s individuality is manifest in a unique manner within strict traditions of folk art that developed over centuries.

Mid-morning we travel to Rishton to visit the families of two of Uzbekistan’s master potters. First, we visit the private house of potter Rustam Usmanov, a famous master of blue ceramics. Here we may see his family’s pottery manufacture and firing, using traditional techniques. Rustam Usmanov has built his own complete pottery studio at home. Mahmud Azizov, a skilful master of kuzagar, produces various forms on wheel, which Rustam and his relatives then paint by hand.

Rustam Usmanov’s art is in perfect harmony with folk traditions. On graduating from the Tashkent Institute of Theatre and Art he devoted much of his time to studying old Rishton ceramics in books and museum collections. This helped him enrich his knowledge of earthenware and gradually develop his own original style, freedom of composition and technological skill. The mastery of his beautiful paintings and the richness of their patterns give a unique character to each of his works. They are some of the best examples of Uzbekistan’s decorative art.

After lunch we visit the house of Alisher Nazirov to meet his family and watch them make their own particular ceramics, again using traditional methods. Alisher Nazirov has studied the patterns of archaeological finds and has reintroduced ancient forms and patterns into Rishton ceramics. Having established tight connections with Japan (in 1994 he trained in the workshop of Isokichi Asakura, master of the Kutani School) he took part in the World Ceramic Exhibition of Komatsu in 1997. Alisher Nazirov’s creations are represented in the collections of the State Museum of Arts of Uzbekistan, the Direction of Arts Exhibitions of the Academy of Arts of Uzbekistan, the State Museum of Oriental Nations’ Art in Moscow, the Museum of Ethnography in Saint Petersburg and the Museum of Ceramics of Asakura-san in Komatsu (Japan). (Overnight Ferghana) BLD

Day 4: Saturday 11 October, Ferghana – Kokand – Dangara – Ferghana Fort Museum of Khodoyar Khan, Kokand Dakhma-i-Shakhan Royal Cemetery (Cemetery of the Khans of Kokand) Juma Mosque, Kokand Wood carving workshop of Mirza Usman Umarov, Dangara

Today we drive to the ancient city of Kokand, centre of the Khanate of Kokand that was toppled by the Russians. On arrival we visit the fortress palace of Khodoyar Khan, the last ruler of the Khanate of Kokand. This fortress-museum has a fine collection of textiles as well as interesting exhibits including old Central Asian carts with large wheels that could negotiate Asia’s rutted roads.

Uzbek masters have raised woodcarving to the level of a fine art. Wall panels, caskets and boxes, the little national table, khantaxta (with a hexahedral or octahedral top made of walnut, beech or plane) and the laukh (a Koran stand), are covered with intricate engraved patterns.

Umarkhan was one of the best-known khans of the Kokand khanate who took the throne in 1810 by coup d’etat. He wanted enlightenment for his people and the development of his land. Many calligraphers, painters, and poets worked at his court. His wife, Nadira, was an exceptional poet, who was associated with the construction of several Kokand mosques, madrasas and caravanserai.

One of Nadira’s most remarkable constructions is the Dakhma-i-Shakhan burial complex where Umarkhan was interred. This architectural complex is typical of the Fergana Valley. The complex, called a khazira, consists of a domed entrance hall entered through a splendid portal decorated with patterns of blue and dark-blue glazed tiles. Similar bright tiles cover the base of the dome. Of special interest is the frame of the upper part of the portal whose pattern is also seen in Ferghana fabric bekasams.

While in Kokand we also visit the Juma mosque, built in the early 19th century, it centres on a 22 metre minaret and includes a huge,

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colourful iwan (arched portico) supported by 98 redwood columns brought from India.

In the late morning we drive to Dangara where we shall visit the house of Mirza Usman Umarov and the wood carving family of the late master Qadir Jan Khaidarov. Here we shall have lunch and meet with the house manager Adila Opera who has arranged to show us the workshops. (Overnight Ferghana) BLD

Tashkent - 1 night Day 5: Sunday 12 October, Ferghana – Tashkent Afternoon at leisure

This morning we depart Ferghana travelling through the mountainous Kamcik pass to Tashkent. After lunch on arrival, the remainder of the afternoon will be at leisure for you to explore the city further, and prepare for your onward or homeward journey. (Overnight Tashkent) BLD

Day 6: Monday 13 October, Tour ends Tashkent Airport transfer for participants departing on the ASA ‘designated flight

There will be a coach transfer to Tashkent airport, where you will be assisted in check-in for your flight to Australia or elsewhere. B

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Accommodation 16 Days in Uzbekistan

All hotels are rated 3-4-star locally (except in Nukus which is a family-run BB) and include rooms with private facilities. Single rooms may be requested – and are subject to availability and payment of the single supplement. Tourism in Uzbekistan is new. This is part of its allure but also means that tourist facilities are not of the quality of those of the USA or Western Europe. Those considering taking this tour must be prepared at times for basic facilities and inefficient service. A hotel list will be given to all participants prior to departure.

Tashkent (2 nights) 4-star Hotel Dedeman Silk Road - a first class hotel located in the business district of Tashkent. www.dedeman.com Samarkand (4 nights) 4-star Hotel Malika Prime - offering 22 guest rooms. www.malika-samarkand.com Bukhara (4 nights) 3-star Omar Khayyam Hotel - located in the historic centre within walking distance of all the ancient monuments. www.hotelomarkhayam.com Khiva (2 nights) 3-star Hotel Malika Khivaek - built in 2008 this traditionally designed hotel is located inside the walled city next to the Islam Khodja Minaret. www.malika-khiva.com Nukus (1 night) Hotel Jipek Joly - decorated in Karakalpak national style, located next to the Savitsky Museum Tashkent (2 nights) 4-star Hotel Dedeman Silk Road - a first class hotel located in the business district of Tashkent. www.dedeman.com

6 Days in the Ferghana Valley: Post-Tour Extension

All hotels are rated 3-4-star locally and include rooms with private facilities. Single rooms may be requested – and are subject to availability and payment of the single supplement. A hotel list will be given to all participants prior to departure.

Ferghana (4 nights) 3-star Hotel Asia, - offering 57 spacious and bright rooms, located in a renovated old building in Russian style. In its garden is a restaurant and a swimming pool. www.asiahotels.uz Tashkent (1 night) 4-star Hotel Dedeman Silk Road - a first class hotel located in the business district of Tashkent. www.dedeman.com

Note: Hotels are subject to change, in which case a hotel of similar standard will be provided.

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Tour Map

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Tour Price & Inclusions Tour 21428: Uzbekistan: The Silk Road Cities AUD $5980.00 Land Content Only - Early-Bird Special: book before 31 March 2014 AUD $6180.00 Land Content Only AUD $400.00 Single Supplement

For competitive Economy, Business or First Class airfares and/or group airfares please contact ASA for further information.

Tour Price (Land Content Only) includes:

Best available 3-4 star hotels (except in Nukus which is a family-run BB) in twin-share rooms with private facilities All meals indicated in the tour itinerary, where: B=breakfast, L=lunch & D=evening meal Drinks at welcome and farewell meals. Other meals may not have drinks included Bottled water during excursions Transportation by air-conditioned coach Airport-hotel transfers if travelling on the ASA 'designated' flights Porterage at hotels and airports Internal airfare Day 14: Nukus - Tashkent Lecture and site-visit program Tour notes Entrance fees to museums and monuments Tips for the coach driver, local guides and restaurants for included meals.

Tour Price (Land Content Only) does not include:

Airfare: Australia - Tashkent, Tashkent - Australia Personal spending money Airport-hotel transfers if not travelling on ASA 'designated' flights Luggage in excess of 20 kg (44 lbs) Costs for taking photographs (a supplement at some sites may be required in Uzbekistan) Travel insurance Single entry visa for Uzbekistan

Tour 21428a: Ferghana Valley Post Tour Extension AUD $2290.00 Land Content Only AUD $190.00 Single Supplement Tour Price (Land Content Only) includes:

Best available 3/4 star hotels in twin-share rooms with private facilities All meals indicated in the tour itinerary, where: B=breakfast, L=lunch & D=evening meal Bottled water during excursions Transportation by air-conditioned coach Airport-hotel transfers if travelling on the designated flights Porterage at hotels and airports Internal airfare Day 1: Tashkent to Ferghana Valley Lecture and site-visit program conducted by local guides Entrance fees to museums and monuments Tips for the coach driver and local guides.

Tour Price (Land Content Only) does not include:

Beverages with meals Personal spending money Airport-hotel transfers if not travelling on the ASA 'designated' flights Luggage in excess of 20 kg (44 lbs) Travel insurance

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Physical Endurance & Practical Information Physical Ratings

The number of flags is a guide to the degree of difficulty of ASA tours relative to each other (not to those of other tour companies). It is neither absolute nor literal. One flag is given to the least taxing tours, six to the most. Flags are allocated, above all, according to the amount of walking and standing each tour involves. Nevertheless all ASA tours require that participants have a good degree of fitness enabling 2-3 hours walking or 1-1.5 hours standing still on any given site visit or excursion. Many sites are accessed by climbing slopes or steps and have uneven terrain.

This 16-day tour involves:

Walking across uneven terrain Fourteen days of coach touring including: long-distance intercity coach travel between Tashkent and Samarkand (approx. 5 hours); Samarkand and Bukhara (approx. 6 hours); Bukhara and Khiva (approx. 8 hours) Regular early-morning (8.30am) starts.

Other considerations:

3 to 5-star hotels (except in Nukus which is a family run BB) with five hotel changes Rudimentary toilet facilities (during some day-excursions) You must be able to carry your own hand-luggage. Hotel porterage includes 1 piece of luggage per person. Risk of gastric ailments (you should consult your doctor about medication before departure) 1 internal flight: Nukus – Tashkent.

It is important to remember that ASA programs are group tours, and slow walkers affect everyone in the group. As the group must move at the speed of the slowest member, the amount of time spent at a site may be reduced if group members cannot maintain a moderate walking pace. ASA tours should not present any problem for active people who can manage day-to-day walking and stair- climbing. However, if you have any doubts about your ability to manage on a program, please ask your ASA travel consultant whether this is a suitable tour for you.

Please note it is a condition of travel that all participants agree to accept ASA's directions in relation to their suitability to participate in activities undertaken on the tour, and that ASA retains the sole discretion to direct a tour participant to refrain from a particular activity on part of the tour. For further information please refer to the Booking Conditions on the last page of this tour itinerary.

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Passort Requirements

All tour members should ensure that they have sent ASA a copy of the front page of their current passport no later than 3 months prior to departure.

Please check that your passport will be valid for 6 months after your date of return to Australia. This is important because many countries will refuse entry to anyone whose passport is about to expire. Please make sure your passport has at least 2 empty pages (1 page will be used for Uzbekistan visa stamps)

Visa Requirements

The following visa will be required for passengers travelling on an Australian passport. Please note that the following prices are subject to change:

Uzbekistan Single entry Group Visa: $30.00 US

This visa must be pre-paid prior to departing Australia, and will be obtained on arrival at the Uzbekistan airport. IMPORTANT: if you are not departing Uzbekistan on the group flights (or taking the Ferghana Valley Post-tour Extension), you may need to apply for an ‘Individual Visa’, instead of the ‘Group Visa’ as indicated above. The current cost for a ‘Single-Entry Individual Visa’ is $80.00 US.

Practical Information

Tour members will receive prior to departure practical notes which include information on visa requirements, health, photography, weather, clothing and what to pack, custom regulations, bank hours, currency regulations, electrical appliances and food. The Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade website has advice for travellers see: www.smartraveller.gov.au

Booking Conditions Make a Reservation

ASA RESERVATION FORM Please complete the ASA RESERVATION APPLICATION and send it to Australians Studying Abroad together with your deposit of $500.00 per person in cash or cheque (payable to Australians Studying Abroad). It is important that you read the Terms and Conditions at this stage, and that you sign the reservation form. If you are booking within 75 days of the tour full payment is required. Refund of deposit, less $385.00 service fee ($350.00 + $35.00 GST) per person, will be given when cancellation is made before Friday 30 May 2014. Your deposit is non-refundable after this date. For further cancellation conditions please refer to the section entitled 'TERMS & CONDITIONS.

Travel Insurance

It is a condition of travel that you are covered by some form of international travel insurance. Note, travel insurance may not cover costs incurred due to a pre-existing illness or other conditions. Your insurance can be arranged through ASA. All participants must provide no later than 75 days prior to the commencement of the program: a copy of your travel insurance certificate the emergency telephone no. of your insurance company

Passport Details

All participants must provide no later than 75 days prior to the commencement of the program a photocopy of the front page of their current passport.

Single Supplement

Payment of the single supplement will ensure accommodation in a single room throughout the tour. The number of single rooms available is extremely limited. People wishing to take this supplement are therefore advised to book well in advance.

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ASA Reservation Form

Please complete one form in block letters and sign, for each participant. Additional copies may be requested from ASA or this form may be photocopied (both sides please). Parental signature is required for participants under 18 years of age. Please mail this form with the appropriate deposit (cheques should be made payable to Australians Studying Abroad P/L) to: P.O. Box 8285, ARMADALE, VICTORIA, 3143. On receipt of this reservation form and deposit, ASA will process your booking and send you tour confirmation. Tour Name

Air Arrangements Please circle your preference: A. I wish ASA to book my airfare using the designated flight from Australia to connect with the arrival group transfer. B. I wish ASA to book my airfare, however they will be independent of the group travel arrangements. I wish to depart from (city in Australia) on (date)

The following is an indication of the itinerary I wish to follow (eg-Melbourne to Amsterdam for 5 days then to Paris for 4 days, then to join the tour starting in Rome). Your ASA travel consultant will be in contact with you to discuss your options.

C. I will be arranging my air fare independently and taking the Land Content Only option.

Tour Accommodation Please book the following accommodation: (Circle your preference) A. As included in the basic tour price. Please indicate your preference: [ ] Twin-bedded room or [ ] Double room** ** Many hotels do not provide double-bedded rooms, in this case you will be confirmed in a twin-bedded room.

I wish to share with: Note: Twin-share accommodation for participants travelling without a companion can usually be arranged provided adequate notice is given to ASA. In the event that this is not possible, payment of the single supplement will be required.

B. In single room accommodation. (Supp. $ )

ADDITIONAL ARRANGEMENTS Should you require additional travel arrangements, such as rail, accommodation, hire car or tours, please contact your ASA consultant.

Correspondence The fastest way for ASA to correspond with you about your travel plans is by email. Please indicate your preferred method of receiving correspondence from ASA [ ] Postal Mail [ ] Email Address (please print clearly): ______

HOW DID YOU FIND OUT ABOUT ASA ? Would you kindly circle from where you first heard about ASA and the tour you are booking on: • ASA Mailing List • Stephen Crafti • UWA Extension • Friend/word of mouth • Look Magazine • University Department • Kenneth W. Park • NGV Magazine • National Trust Magazine • Susannah Fullerton • Gardening Australia Magazine •La Trobe University Alumni. Member No.______• Sabrina Hahn • Open Gardening Scheme • John Patrick • ABC Radio • Richard Heathcote/Carrick Hill • Friends of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne Other

ASA Reservation Form

APPLICANT DETAILS ** WARNING: All travel documents must be issued with your correct passport name!** TITLE K Mr K Mrs K Ms K Miss K Dr K Other FIRST NAME (as in passport) Preferred FIRST NAME MIDDLE NAME (as in passport) SURNAME (as in passport) POSTAL ADDRESS STATE POSTCODE TEL. (AH) ( ) TEL. (BH) ( ) FAX ( ) Mobile Tel: E-MAIL address Date of birth: GENDER Male K Female K Smoker K Non-Smoker K

It is important that all information regarding dietary requests is correct. Please complete the following carefully: Airline meals: K Standard K Vegetarian (incl. eggs & dairy) K Vegetarian (no eggs or dairy) K Other (specify) Meals during the tour: Please tick (¸) if you require a standard meal on tour - no special dietary requirements: K Standard tour meals Please tick (¸) if you CAN NOT eat any of the following: Kfish Kpoultry Kred meat Kdairy product s Keggs Kpork Please specify if you have any further dietary requirements or food allergies:

Frequent Flyer Membership # (if taking group airfare): Name of Airline Airline Seat preference (please note request only):

PASSPORT DETAILS Increased world security requires that your travel documents and all in-country local reservations exactly match your passport name. It is therefore essential that if you have a current passport with at least 6 months validity from date of return into Australia a photocopy of the first page is sent to ASA with this reservation form. Please tick the applicable box below: I have enclosed a copy of my current valid passport please tick (¸) I have travelled with ASA since January 2008 and ASA should have a copy of my current passport on file please tick (¸) My passport is not current or does not have at least 6 months validity from date of return into Australia please tick (¸) ** I am applying for a new passport and will forward a copy to ASA as soon as I have received my new passport please tick (¸) ** ** If a copy of your passport is not enclosed, please advise your Nationality:

MEDICAL CONDITIONS ASA’s tours require, on occasion, a substantial amount of physical exertion. The purpose of seeking this information is to assist ASA in determining the suitability of a tour participant for a particular tour, and to address how ASA may be able to make ‘reasonable accommodation’ to cater for those tour participants, where only a minor modification may be needed. The information will be treated in the strictest confidence. If ASA has any concerns based on the information provided by you, it will contact you to discuss those concerns and may request further information or clarification of the information previously provided. Please outline whether you suffer from any medical conditions in any of the following areas: Respiratory Spinal Cardiac, including Blood Pressure Allergies Sight/Sound Mobility Any other condition which may affect your ability to participate on this tour?

Person to notify in case of emergency Name Relationship to Traveller Address Telephone If any details requested on this form are not yet available, please still forward your form and communicate these details at a later date. I have enclosed a deposit of $ for this tour. I understand that this deposit is subject to the cancellation fees as outlined in the BOOKING CONDITIONS section of the tour itinerary.

LIABILITY RELEASE: Please read carefully and sign the following: I have read the itinerary and related information pertaining to this tour of which I am a participant that has been designed and conducted by Australians Studying Abroad Pty Ltd. I am aware of the terms and conditions of the tour relating to refunds and cancellations, responsibility and liability. I understand that there are inherent dangers and risks that may occur with this tour, known or unknown, relating to but not limited to air, coach, car and ship travel, walks, camera equipment, accidents and/or illnesses and acts of nature, man or God. I also understand that the itinerary, accommodation and guest lecturers scheduled for this tour may change due to unforeseen circumstances such as illness, political considerations or personal emergencies. In consideration of the right to participate in this tour, I hereby release Australians Studying Abroad Pty Ltd and its agents, associates or related parties from all responsibility for damages, injuries, losses or delays due to any reason whatsoever and hereby assume all risks and dangers in connection with the tour. Date Signature(s)

DIRECT DEPOSIT OR CREDIT CARD PAYMENT OPTION Mail or Email Payment Advice / Credit Card Authorisation to ASA

CREDIT CARD PAYMENT DIRECT DEPOSIT Should you wish to pay ASA by any of the ASA offers you a direct payment or internet banking following credit cards the following fees will payment option. This allows you to transfer your apply: payment directly from your bank account to our bank account. Please follow the procedures below: Mastercard and American Express 1.95%

Visa and Bank Card (Australia only) 1.95% 1. You will need to provide your bank with Diners Club 2.70% ASA’s bank details (see below) and the

exact amount you wish to transfer. Please debit my 2. Your bank will ask you for a reference number. Mastercard + Please quote your last name or your mobile American Express + phone number as the reference number. 3. Your bank will provide you with a Visa + confirmation number which you need to Bankcard (Australia only) + include below.

Diners Club + 4. Once your transfer has been actioned please complete the following and fax or email this document back to ASA. Authority to debit my Credit Card 5. If you wish to go directly into any ANZ bank for the amount due plus the applicable credit card fee. to direct deposit your payment into our

NAME OF ASA TOUR OR COURSE bank account you will still be asked the following details. Please then complete the information below and forward to ASA immediately. Credit Card Number 6. Any fees levied by the banks are at your expense.

Expiry Date Australians Studying Abroad bank details Security code on back of card Bank ANZ Bank the card is linked to: eg – NAB or ANZ Branch 420 St Kilda Road, Melbourne Vic Swift Code ANZBAU3M Type of Credit Card: eg Gold, Platinum etc BSB 013-423 Account No 3472-32759

Amount including cc fee $ NAME OF ASA TOUR OR COURSE Cardholders Name

Card Holders Billing Address Travellers Name Address City Amount Transferred $ State Postcode Bank Confirmation No. Country Reference you used Mobile or last name Phone recommended Email Date Money Transferred / / Card Holders Signature Travellers Signature

Date / / Date / /

CONDITIONS OF CREDIT CARD PAYMENT

Monies Paid to Australians Studying Abroad P/L Refunds It is a condition of the acceptance of any booking Unused documents for which refund is sought must that all monies paid to Australians Studying be returned to ASA. Refunds are subject to airline Abroad (ASA) may be dispersed by ASA as and and other operator terms and conditions as well as when it sees fit for or in respect of the services to outgoings incurred by ASA. Because of procedures be provided or fees payable to suppliers or these can sometimes take a minimum of 10 weeks carriers, and the payment of a deposit or charge to be processed. card authorization for travel or related fees shall be deemed to be a direction by the client to ASA General Information to disburse such monies as aforesaid. This authorisation is valid until your credit card changes (ie: replaced due to lost/stolen card), Prices and Exchange Rate expires or is revoked in accordance with the Card Price justifications for travel are expressed in Account Agreement. We shall require you to sign a Australian Dollars and are based on foreign fresh authorization if the card number as changed currency exchange rates, tariffs, taxes and fares due to replacement, if it has expired or if you have valid at time of quoting. These are subject to revoked this authorization in writing, but then alteration if there are fluctuations in rates of subsequently decide to use the Signature-on-File exchange, tariffs, taxes or fares, or for other facility. If the credit card issued to you is cancelled cause, at any time. or authorization for the card is refused, you will pay ASA any amounts outstanding for travel Variations Of Conditions services. ASA reserves the right to vary these Signature- These terms and conditions in no way change or on-File Conditions at any time, but no such affect your responsibility and obligations as defined variation shall be binding unless made or in the Card Account Agreement issued to you. In confirmed in writing. the event any provision conflicts with a provision of the Card Account Agreement, the Card Account Responsibility Clause Agreement shall prevail.

ASA acts as agent for the supplier or service Privacy of Information provider in booking or arranging all transport, Your personal details are safeguarded by privacy sightseeing, hotel accommodation and other law. ASA collects personal information from you in travel-related services. ASA does not own, order to organise your travel arrangements. We manage, control or operate any supplier of may: services. All coupons, receipts and tickets are issued subject to the terms and conditions
Share the information with companies related to ASA. specified by the suppliers. By accepting the
Disclose the information to various third parties coupons and tickets and utilizing their services, in the course of providing services to you or as you agree that neither ASA nor any of its may be required by law or use the information for subsidiary companies or representatives shall be other purposes where you consent to this. You can liable for any loss, injury or damages to you or upon request see your personal information which your belongings or otherwise in connection with we hold by contacting us. We would welcome any any accommodation, transport or other services feedback from you to correct any inaccuracies. You or resulting directly or indirectly from occurrences can also access a detailed statement of ASA’s beyond its control, including breakdown in privacy policies on its web-site at (web site details) equipment, strikes, theft, delay or cancellation or or obtain further information relating to ASA change in itinerary or schedule, etc. Also privacy policies by contacting us. remember that travel documents, if necessary, Responsibility Clause and compliance with customs regulations, if You have the option of not providing certain of the applicable, are your responsibility. information requested by ASA. However, you

should note that this may prevent ASA from

offering all of its services to you.

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