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CONTENTS Development of Botrytis Threatened to Ruin the Harvest 4 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL MOST ADMIRED CHAMPAGNES 2018 ugust 25 was the turning point of the 2017 vintage, according to Lanson’s winemaker Hervé Dantan. Widespread CONTENTS development of botrytis threatened to ruin the harvest. HOW WE DID IT A“Many faced the di cult decision between picking clean, but possibly slightly under- The methodology behind the Academy’s voting ripe, fruit or waiting for phenolic maturity, but running an increasing risk of botrytis spreading,” TOP LISTING according to Giles Fallow eld. The harvest was conducted at a frenetic pace Champagne expert Giles Fallow eld on the and was completed in about 10 days rather than victories and trials of 2018’s most admired brands the three weeks it took in 2016. For Giles’s full conclusions, turn to his harvest report on page 36. As to this year’s survey, the ‘great and the CHAMPAGNE HARVEST good’ have voted and Louis Roederer has stepped Producer tell Giles Fallow eld how they coped up to take on the mantel of The World’s Most Admired Champagne Brand. Richly deserved – the with some major challenges in 2017 champagne has never been outside of the top ve since the surveys started. THE LIST For those who do not know Drinks International’s Most Admired surveys, please turn An at-a-glance guide to the full list, showing to page 6 to nd out how we came up with the who’s up, who’s down and who’s new list. At this point it is important to stress that the survey is purely an accumulation of opinions and perceptions – but from experts and specialists in the drinks sector who have an intimate knowledge of champagne. Self-styled Champagne Guru Giles Fallow eld has once again done a sterling job based on his in-depth knowledge of Champagne – both the region and the wine. I hope sincerely that you broadly agree with our ndings but I also hope that some of the climbers and absentees may surprise you and possibly challenge some of your perceptions. Times change and we all, every now and again, have to review what we think we know. christian davis MANAGING EDITOR Champagne Guru & Main Contributor Designer GILES FALLOWFIELD JAMES DOWN Managing Editor [email protected] CHRISTIAN DAVIS Commercial Director +44 (0)1293 590047 ROB CULLEN Drinks International [email protected] +44 (0)1293 590043 Longley House, [email protected] International Drive, Production Editor Southgate Avenue, JAQ BAYLES Publisher Crawley, West Sussex [email protected] JUSTIN SMITH RH10 6AQ United Kingdom Editorial Administrator +44 (0)1293 590041 TEL:+44 (0)1293 590040 ANGEL BROWN [email protected] FAX:+44 (0) 1293 474010 +44 (0) 1293 590048 Managing Director WWW.drinksint.com [email protected] RUSSELL DODD Group Art editor +44 (0)1293 590052 CHRISTINE FREEMAN [email protected] [email protected] 003 Contents Champs 2018.indd 4 23/01/2018 16:09 6 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL MOST ADMIRED CHAMPAGNES 2018 HOW WE DID IT Your at-a-glance guide to how the most PIDJOE/ISTOCK.COM admired champagnes academy works ur formidable leading retailers, wine writers, 30 brands which unmasks the Academy has MWs and marketing experts movement of trends among the chosen Roederer and asked them to name their biggest names in the category. as the World’s top ve brands. Over the following pages Most Admired When choosing their list, we champagne expert Giles OChampagne Brand, replacing asked Academy members to IT’S NOW Fallow eld examines the Bollinger. Pol Roger, famously consider the following: PARTY TIME results to give his verdict on the Winston Churchill’s favourite • The quality and FOR WINNER rankings. tipple, has climbed up from consistency of the brand, ROEDERER Champagne Lanson is one of fourth place to take the paying particular attention CHAMPAGNE the biggest brands to exit the runner-up slot, while last year’s to its main, non-vintage 2018 list. Coming in at 20 last winner has slipped to sixth line year, the brand known best for place in 2018. • Whether this quality and • The brand’s value at its price its Wimbledon sponsorship, has The Academy voting process consistency has been level fallen o the list completely. was unchanged for the poll’s maintained or improved in • The overall image of the It’s now party time for h year and, as ever, we the past year brand Roederer and it won’t have to assembled a panel of judges • The quality of brand The results from the Academy look far for a champagne worthy drawn from a wide range of marketing and packaging members has revealed a list of of celebration. 006 How we did it Champs 2018 SUBBED.indd 6 23/01/2018 15:21 8 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL LOUIS ROEDERER LOUIS-ROEDERER.COM ouis Roederer has never finished outside the top five in the four EVERY YEAR previous years we EFFORTS ARE have run the World’s BEING MADE LMost Admired Champagne TO IMPROVE Brands supplement. And this QUALITY is the year it’s finally made the top slot, which has been hogged exclusively by Bollinger and have made over the past Krug for the past three years. few years. Being the modest What these three brands have man he is, he’d give the team in common is consistency. They much of the credit for this don’t make bad wines and every evolution in the Roederer year efforts are being made to winemaking. Collectively they improve quality, even when give great attention to the tiny they appear to already be at details, as we’ve reported in the peak of their game. That’s this supplement before. For what it takes to build a great example, the work they have champagne brand – consistent done on following the evolution quality over many years. This is of the second fermentation in what we ask our distinguished I note, for example, the 2012- grapefruit acidity keeps this bottle, which has in part led to voting academy to take notice of based blend of Brut Premier sparklingly fresh, there’s now the decision to give different first and foremost, consistency, that was in the market in late more depth, texture and mid- formats of the Premier Brut, plus evidence, most likely to be 2016/early 2017 had around 35% palate complexity, especially differing pressures by varying found inside the bottle, that the reserve wine in it from seven when in magnum, bringing the amount of sugar in the prise producer is striving to improve. different vintages, more Pinot something extra to the party. de mousse. In the case of Roederer, we Noir than usual (at around This is not just the result of While winemaking at know that the foundation for 46%) less Chardonnay and one major change in policy, Roederer is constantly evolving, that quality is the Rouzaud Meunier and didn’t go through but rather lots of tiny ones it’s only doing that in line with family’s 240ha vineyard estate, malolactic. While the trademark that Lécaillon and his team the changing character of the large enough to provide around juice being obtained from the two-thirds of the grapes it company’s vineyards, which needs, and mainly comprised THE ROEDERER ESTATE VINEYARD were for the first time 100% of Premier and Grand Cru organically farmed in 2017. The vineyards. This covers a total area of 240ha, enough to produce around 2.4m bottles area it is farming biodynamically of champagne. It is divided into 410 parcels, or ‘lieux-dits’. Some 130 are in continues to grow with the BRUT PREMIER BLEND Grand Cru villages and a further 73ha have Premier Cru status. All the Roederer ‘crystal estate’ on track to be So what helped Roederer clear vintage wines – that’s Cristal Blanc and Rosé, the regular vintage, Blanc 100% farmed this way by 2020, the final hurdle to the number de Blancs vintage and Rosé vintage, plus Brut Nature vintage – are 100% says Lecaillon. “Farming in one spot? From my perspective, produced from this estate. this way is generating more it’s undoubtedly partly down to The wine that is bought in from growers under contract is all fermented in a freshness, more chalkiness, the quality of the Brut Premier different part of the winery in Reims, across the road from where the estate more intensity, more complexity. blend. I believe head winemaker wine is kept. It has forced us to think Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon – who The largest part of the Roederer estate is in the Côte des Blancs where the differently at blending. The focus has worked at the house since house owns 126 parcels covering an area of 84ha. This is in villages including: is now on texture and soil site August 1989, amid the three Avize, Cramant, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Vertus. In the Montagne expression rather than on grape great vintages of ’88-’90 and de Reims Roederer owns 112 parcels covering 69ha in the villages of Verzenay, variety percentages.” is widely regarded as one of Verzy, Beaumont-sur-Vesles, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Louvois, Villers-Allerand, Écueil So the Roederer style the leading winemakers in the & Sacy. The Roederer vineyard holdings in the Vallée de la Marne total 172 continues to evolve dynamically, whole appellation – has taken parcels covering 68ha in the villages of Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Dizy, Champillon, which seems likely to keep it it to another level over the past Hautvillers, Cumières, Damery, Mutigny and Epernay. in the top-rated brands of our few years. survey for years to come.
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