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Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 156 Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Ohel Moishe ings, such as the Broadway 5 Vue (p162) Raising a Synagogue (p159) Getting Mansions. glass to the Bund and the a history lesson on Jewish 3 1933 (p162) Getting Pǔdōng skyline at this bar Shànghǎi. lost along the labyrinth of with a view. 2 Architecture (p162) concrete walkways. Taking a self-guided tour 4 Duolun Rd (p158) Wan- of Hóngkǒu’s concession- dering past historic period and art deco build architecture and curio shops. 0 1 km HÓNGKǑU e# 0 0.5 miles 路 一 Lu Xun 北 Park W Tianbao Rd 山 中 d Heping d R d R R i Park g 1 in o 'a uy n Xin i N a Q ga L n i ng i R a T n d h s g g n u o a h n Z R d N d R 4##þ g n i d p R i n S N a D u a X ZHĀBĚI d h li i d c a z R 路 R i n a n 兴 n S R a n h a d d s g 中 N R o h i 大 u d s u R 连 H R o z d a g a ji 路 n u 路 西 xi B ho g #â Z 山 藏 # on 3 唐 北 Zh NORTH Rd han #à 路 SHÀNGHǍI s 1# 路 ng 江路 进 Ta 虬 武 W d hupu Rd d Rd g R Yangs g R jin u in 杨树浦路 s m jian Wu 吴 da Qiu o ng 淞 n o D 东大名路 g 路 R N 宁路 d er 海 H Riv 河 pǔ g Rd e Rd áng n n g u aini 南 nton 5#û H H a a Ti #ÿ 北 n 2# R 路 d 000 000 ve 000 de A 000 rsi eYinchengRd 苏州路 ve dl S 南 Beijing Rd Ri id S E 000 M ǔdōng Ave uz Rd 000 P 东大道 hou 000 浦 For more detail of this area see Map p314 A 157 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Hóngkǒu & Top Tip North Shànghǎi Basing yourself in south Hóngkǒu – at the Astor Hóngkǒu and North Shànghǎi (虹 口 区、北 上 海 ) may not House Hotel (p213), Chai have the lion’s share of sights in town, but prize chunks Living Residences (p213) of heritage architecture rise up from the swirl of street or the Bulgari, which is set life and an authentic grittiness survives. to open in 2017 – allows The up-and-coming North Bund area beyond Sūzhōu you to hang your Shànghǎi Creek is worth exploring for its impressive buildings, fedora within easy reach of including the granddaddy of heritage hotels – the Astor the Bund across Wàibáidù House Hotel – looming art deco blocks and noteworthy & Hóngkǒu Bridge (Garden Bridge) concession-era classics. The American Settlement was and the nearby concession originally here, merging with the British Settlement in architecture of the North 1863 to form the prosperous International Settlement. To Bund district. the west, Zháběi became infamous for its sweatshops and factories and was later flattened by the Japanese in 1932. A rich vein of Jewish heritage survives towards n ort Yángpǔ in the east, dating from the days when Hóngkǒu 5 Best Places to Eat was home to thousands of Jewish refugees, mostly from H Germany, who transformed ‘Little Tokyo’ (where 30,000 ¨ Guǒyúan (p160) S Japanese lived) into ‘Little Vienna’. The Ohel Moishe ¨ H Xīndàlù (p161) àng Synagogue stands as a testament to this era. Wander ¨ Yang’s Fry Dumplings round this neighbourhood and you’ll also find examples (p161) H ǎi of Shànghǎi’s trademark terrace-style shíkùmén (stone- ¨ Kathleen’s Waitan (p161) gate house) architecture, lòngtáng (alleyway) houses and narrow alleyways in between. For reviews, see p160 A Close to the Bund, Hóngkǒu has some excellently po- sitioned accommodation options, and while notable res- taurants may seem thin on the ground, work your shoe 6 Best Places leather and you can track down excellent options from to Drink across China. ¨ Vue (p162) ¨ Kathleen’s Waitan (p161) Local Life For reviews, see p162 A ¨Snacking Join locals along North Jiangxi Rd for a profusion of local titbits and hunger-busting bites. ¨Hóngkǒu backstreets Wander the lanes around the Ohel Moishe Synagogue (p159) to soak up the local ‘Little Vienna’ flavour. ¨Park life Catch the locals performing taichi or honing ballroom-dancing spins in Lu Xun Park (p158). Getting There & Away ¨Metro Line 10 runs north from East Nanjing Rd to Fùdàn University, passing Tiantong Rd, North Sichuan Rd and Hailun Rd stations. Line 3 also runs north, offering access to Duolun Rd and Lu Xun Park. Lines 4 and 8 loop east–west. Main interchange stations are Baoshan Rd (lines 3 and 4), Hailun Rd (lines 4 and 10) and Hongkou Football Stadium (lines 3 and 8)..
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