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National Workshop and Seminar on “Vegetable Dye and Its Application on Textiles”, Silpa­Sadana, Visva­Bharati, 2Nd – 4Th December, 2011

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National Workshop and Seminar on “Vegetable Dye and Its Application on Textiles”, Silpa­Sadana, Visva­Bharati, 2Nd – 4Th December, 2011 National Workshop and Seminar on “Vegetable dye and its application on textiles”, Silpa­Sadana, Visva­Bharati, 2nd – 4th December, 2011 1 National Workshop and Seminar on “Vegetable dye and its application on textiles”, Silpa­Sadana, Visva­Bharati, 2nd – 4th December, 2011 BOOK OF ABSTRACTS National Workshop and Seminar on Vegetable dye and its application on textiles 2nd – 4th December, 2011 Organised by DEPARTMENT OF SILPA-SADANA VISVA-BHARATI Sriniketan – 731 236 District – Birbhum, West Bengal Edited by: Sri Ashis Mitra & Dr. Arabinda Mondal Compiled by: Dr. Sankar Roy Maulik 2 National Workshop and Seminar on “Vegetable dye and its application on textiles”, Silpa­Sadana, Visva­Bharati, 2nd – 4th December, 2011 From the Desk of Head, Silpa-Sadana In this juncture I become nostalgic. In our childhood, we used to pick a piece of charcoal or white clay and draw on the wall and floor to express ourselves. Secondly, I felt that not only my sitters but almost all the Indian-subcontinent girls have fascination to decorate their hand by Mehandi, subsequently somehow we were unknowingly using the natural colour in the very beginning of our life. I remember Gurudev’s word: “If we could free even one village from the shackles of helplessness and ignorance, an ideal for the whole of India would be established… Let a few villages be rebuilt in this way, and I shall say they are my India. That is the way to discover the true India (Tagore, 1928)”. Tagore’s keen interest of upliftment of the rural mass, Indian craft sector have been considered as ancestor in the art of natural dyeing. So this workshop is a tribute to Gurudev on his 150th birth anniversary. But in India we are fortunate enough to preserve our age old tradition which is coming from Sindh (Pakistan), where a piece of cotton dyed with vegetable dye has been recovered from the archaeological site at Mohenjo-daro (3000 BC). India is supposed to be the oldest center of indigo dyeing. In India, there are more than 450 plants that have been recognized as dyes. Along with other dyes indigo was introduced to other regions through trade. Natural insect dyes such as Tyrian purple and Kermes and plant-based dyes such as woad, indigo and many other dyes were important elements of the economies of Asia until the discovery of man- made synthetic dyes in the middle of 19th century. Natural dyes have a renewable resource and contribute to rural economic development. In modern context, when fashion becomes an individual signature, naturally pigmented or dyed cotton can give the originality and uniqueness. Hence 5,000 years old knowledge of natural dyeing is reviving with new methodologies. There is experimental evidence to demonstrate this: naturally pigmented cottons have tremendous sun protection properties. It is hypothesized that the pigments in naturally pigmented cotton fibers are present to provide protection from ultraviolet radiation. Natural dyes produce an extraordinary diversity of rich and complex colours, making them exciting to use. Natural colours are great motivators and easy to design with. It is easy to design using natural colours as they complement each other well and rarely clash. Natural dyes find its application in the colouring of not only textiles, but also it can be used in drugs, cosmetics, etc. Owing to their nontoxic effects, they are also used for colouring various food products. Since ages Indians are using turmeric and many other organic materials in our daily food. Globally, confectionery products containing natural colorants are growing. Globally confectionery market has moved more aggressively towards natural colors increasing from 5.5% of total product launches in 2006 to a projected 12% of total product launches in current year*. From prehistoric period, people used natural dye for their painting; many cave paintings are the example of this viz. Atamira, Bhimbatic ets. Recent year use of natural colour in color photographs or color transparencies is still in the initial stage of application. In present scenario of sustainable design, eco-friendly is the buzzword, and carbon footprint becomes the one of the essential parts of our production system. Hence we should give more emphasis on developing naturally dyed products. The proposed workshop and seminar on “Vegetable dye and its application on textiles” being the outcome of continuous research and developmental activities carried out at Textile Section, Silpa-Sadana. This workshop and seminar will benefit entrepreneurs, textile designers, handloom dyers and printers, the craftsmen, academician and the personnel connected with this trade. The outcome of this workshop and seminar will enhance our age old tradition with the help of modern technology. *Search is only based on the use of US exempt colors, not those that may be considered naturally derived in each respective country. 3 National Workshop and Seminar on “Vegetable dye and its application on textiles”, Silpa­Sadana, Visva­Bharati, 2nd – 4th December, 2011 Organising Committee Chief Advisor(s) Sri Shantanu Kumar Jena Sri Arup Mukherjee Convener Dr Sankar Roy Maulik Programme Director Sri Prabir Kumar Choudhuri Editor (s) Sri Ashis Mitra Dr. Arabinda Mondal Publicity & Promotion Sri Mrinal Kanti Sarkar 4 National Workshop and Seminar on “Vegetable dye and its application on textiles”, Silpa­Sadana, Visva­Bharati, 2nd – 4th December, 2011 From the Organisers’ Desk …………………. Silpa-Sadana is the pioneer Institution under the aegis of Visva-Bharati, a central university, for imparting technical education in the domain of cottage and small scale industries since its inception in 1922. The great poet and philosopher “Gurudeva” Rabindranath Tagore, founder of Visva-Bharati, had the dream of rejuvenating the traditional knowledge and to flourish it with a view to socio-economic upliftment of rural people. Craft sectors had been given the top most priority. Later the great son of the great poet, Rathindranath devoted his entire life to turn his father’s dream into reality through his indefatigable and enervated efforts. To fulfil this mission, of course, he was backed by the active assistance from his wife, Pratimadevi, who stretched her arms in this noble venture. Through their continuous research and endevour, Silpa-Sadana, in due course, became the Cottage Industries Training Centre and the produce from its extension wing emerged out as the trend setter in design throughout the country. It is a great pleasure and pride on our part to walk down the path shown by Rathindranath and Pratima Devi. Imparting teaching and hands-on training, organisation of symposium & workshop, etc. are always given the prime importance to disseminate knowledge from college to cottage. This time, to organise a National Workshop and Seminar on Vegetable dye and its application on textiles’, is another endeavour from our part to carry forward the vision and fulfil the mission of “Gurudeva”. The theme of this programme is very relevant and time demanding, especially in the present scenario of growing consciousness of greener environment. Mutual exchange of views, scientific understandings, and innovations in the field of dyeing and design concepts are the main motto of this program likely to be beneficial for the whole gamut of esteemed participants coming from all arena. 5 National Workshop and Seminar on “Vegetable dye and its application on textiles”, Silpa­Sadana, Visva­Bharati, 2nd – 4th December, 2011 Content Seminar Papers Page No. Article Author (s) Affiliation 08-11 Silpa-Sadana –––––– past and present Raj Kumar Konar Silpa-Sadana, Visva-Bharati 12-16 Rathindranath Tagore and his contribution Saswati Pal Choudhuri Department of Museology, towards rural (Mandal) University of Calcutta socio-economic development 17-22 Innovative dyeing and printing with Arup Mukherjee Silpa-Sadana, natural dyes Visva-Bharati 23 Environmental compliance for textile dye Dipankar Adhya Textile Technologist & effluent with special reference to Environmental Consultant vegetable dyes 24-28 ‘Bagru’ ––––– A traditional printing Sambaditya Raj & Banasthali Vidyapith, technique of Rajasthan Prabir Kumar Choudhuri Jaipur, and Silpa-Sadana, Visva-Bharati 29-42 New age marketing concept of Indian Sanjay Mukhopadhyay Crystal Martin (Knitwear) textile products Limited 43-49 Use of natural dyes for antimicrobial K. N. Das & Biju Patnaik University of finish G. Bhattacharya Technology, Orissa 50 Demystifying the nature of spider silk and Chandan Das Starling Silk Mills Private application of natural dye Limited, Malda 51 Dyeing of silk fabric with onion peel Deepali Singhee, Yamini J.D. Birla Institute, waste using unconventional methods Dhanania & Kolkata A K Samanta Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, Kolkata, 52 Direct application of natural dyes on Tapas Bhattacharya & National Institute of garments Ruhee Das Chowdhury Fashion Technology, Kolkata, 53-58 Natural dye and its application on textile – Debasish Das Department of Jute and –––– an overview of present state of Fibre Technology, affairs Kolkata, 59-64 Natural compounds and its medicinal Kunal Bhandari Department of Jute and activity Fibre Technology, Kolkata. 65-69 Eco-friendliness of natural dyes T K Guha Roy Ex Dy Director IJIRA, Kolkata 70-73 Opportunities of natural dyes for a greener Atish Mukherjee Eco-N-Viron, Serampore, textile and colouration industry Hooghly 74-78 Traditional Indigo Dyeing V Sakthivel National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad 79-83 Use of natural colours in Patachitras by Debashish Mahalanobish Kala-Bhavana,
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