Glass Cluding Smartphones and Tablets

PANTHER INNOVATE OR DIE POWER NEW STRETCH AND PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES THE LARGEST EXHIBITION WERE KEY TRENDS AT DENIM BY PV. OF CARTIER JEWELRY IN PAGE 8 YEARS OPENS IN PARIS. PAGE 10

MOBILE SHINES Cyber Monday Climbs But Growth Slows

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

DIGITAL PURE PLAYS and mobile shopping shined on Cyber Monday, but overall the day lost some steam versus a year ago as merchants focused on the five- day period from Thanksgiving through Monday. Adobe Digital reported Tuesday that online shop- WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ping for Cyber Monday set a new record — hitting WWD $2.29 billion, a 16 percent year-over-year increase from 2012, with 18.3 percent of sales, or $419 million, coming from mobile. Pure-play e-tailers came out on top, taking a 42 percent share of all online sales for the day. Retailers overall raked in an estimated 10 percent of their holiday sales during the fi ve-day stretch, with total e-commerce sales of $7.4 billion — up 26 percent year over year. IBM Digital Analytics Benchmark reported that sales were up 20.6 percent from 2012 — that’s solid growth in a total retail market that is seeing single- digit gains. Mobile sales were responsible for more than 17 percent of overall sales. According to Custora Pulse, one in three purchases were completed on a mobile device on Monday, in- Glass cluding smartphones and tablets. Even though Apple still dominates e-commerce orders — its devices pow- ered 80 percent of mobile orders on Cyber Monday — Android devices were responsible for 20 percent of transactions, up from 13 percent last year. Custora Pulse reported that social commerce — sales resulting from social networks like Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram — were responsible for less than 1 per- Act cent of e-commerce sales Monday. From Thursday Looking to the fl uid patterns of through Monday, Adobe said that social referral traffi c midcentury Venetian glass, Diane von infl uenced 2 percent of sales, or $148 million. Sales for Cyber Monday peaked between 8 p.m. Furstenberg showed and 9 p.m. EST, a welcome spike in activity after a colorful pre-fall an afternoon that seemed a “little soft,” according collection focused to Sucharita Mulpuru, vice president and principal 2014 analyst at Forrester Research. By the end of the day, on graceful shapes SEE PAGE 7 and prints. Here, PRE-FALL her silk maxidress, COLLECTIONS slim leather clutch China Crackdown and link bracelet. For more pre-fall, see pages 4 and 5. Could Hit Luxury

By LARA FARRAR

SHANGHAI — In what could be a further blow to luxury consumption in China, the nation’s leadership is deepening its pledge to crack down on corruption and ostentation with the release of new rules outlining how officials should avoid extravagant spending on activities ranging from overseas travel to the purchase of new vehicles. With 12 chapters outlining 65 rules on how to manage funds and employ more transparent spending, the document, released last week, is extensive and is causing analysts to question whether the antigraft campaign that began nearly a year ago under the new administration of President Xi Jinping will continue to have a far-reaching impact on China’s luxury sec- tor. Spending on luxury products has historically been bolstered by the purchase of expensive gifts between ofﬁ cials and business associates as bribes. Some say the ongoing campaign, reinforced by the new rules, could portend a slower shopping season over the upcoming January Chinese New Year, a period known for elaborate gifting, particularly between businesses and governments as a form of collateral to ink business deals in the coming year. While it may still be too early to gauge the effect, there are already signs of a slowdown. In recent days, Chinese media have reported how companies that make greeting cards, which are used to give presents of cash or gift cards, are reporting steep declines on orders from government ofﬁ ces. PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN “Certain companies in certain sectors will continue SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013 WWD.COM

A&F Investor Seeks Jeffries’ Ouster the Briefing Box percentage gain among the U.S. to continuing our dialogue with By ArNolD J. KArr equities tracked by WWD. shareholders as we execute on in Today’s WWd in a nine-page letter signed our long-term plan.” AN AcTiViST iNVeSTor wants by Glenn Welling, chief invest- engaged gave Jeffries cred- Michael Jeffries’ current contract ment officer of engaged, the firm it for reinventing the A&F as chairman and chief executive said it invested in A&F “because brand and for building a com- Behind the scenes officer of Abercrombie & Fitch we believed that ANF was deep- pany that led its teen peers at Altuzarra co. to be his last. ly undervalued despite owning — American eagle outfitters pre-fall. For more, engaged capital urged the two of the strongest brands in inc., Aéropostale inc. and see WWD.com. board to “immediately commence teen apparel.” Urban outfitters inc. — in gross a ceo search for candidates with Discussions with manage- margin, international sales, relevant retail apparel and turn- ment, the board and industry direct-to-consumer sales and around experience.” While giving observers, coupled with its own Facebook likes. But it noted credit to Jeffries, 69, for much of research and analysis, “have led that returns to shareholders A&F’s success, it said the pres- us to the conclusion that ANF’s lagged other teen stores and ence of the controversial ceo perennial underperformance is a members of its peer group. “represents a major stumbling result of a failure of leadership,” engaged also pointed out block to a transaction,” such as a the letter said. that, when talk about a possible sale that “may represent the best responding to the let- buyout of Aéropostale began to

option for shareholders.” ter, the company said, “The swirl, several analysts identified homas Iannaccone t Jeffries’ employment agree- Abercrombie & Fitch board and A&F as a more attractive take- ment at A&F, signed at the end of management team are commit- over candidate.

2008, expires on Feb. 1. engaged ted to creating value, and we “We agree,” engaged said. Photo by said it owns 400,000 shares of the welcome input from all share- it quoted cNBc’s Jim cramer company’s stock, or about 0.5 per- holders. The company has had as saying, “This used to be the cent of those outstanding. extensive discussions with many hottest teen brand in the world. The shareholder initiative lift- of its shareholders, including Yet, under Jeffries’ recent lead- Cyber Monday lost some steam versus a year ago as ed shares of A&F $1.97, or 5.8 per- engaged capital, over the past ership, Abercrombie & Fitch has merchants focused on the five-day period from Thanksgiving cent, to $35.99 Tuesday, the largest several months. We look forward become practically irrelevant.” through Monday. PAGE 1

China’s leadership is deepening its pledge to crack down on corruption and ostentation with new rules outlining how officials should avoid extravagant spending. PAGE 1 H&M Sport to Compete in Activewear Fairchild Fashion Media editorial director Peter Kaplan was remembered Tuesday as a father, editor, mentor, prankster and By Joelle DiDerich Looks confidante. PAGE 6 from the PAriS — hennes & Mauritz H&M Sport Donna Karan is opening a charitable pop-up marketplace at AB is competing harder in the collection. the Stephen Weiss Studio for the holiday season. PAGE 6 sports arena. The Swedish high-street retailer News of Denim by Première Vision’s move to Barcelona as of will reveal today that it is launch- spring 2014 didn’t overshadow innovations’ starring role at the ing h&M Sport, an expanded concept with a new visual identity, on fair, which was held in Paris last month. PAGE 8 Jan. 2 in all its markets worldwide. Dedicated areas in selected Condé Nast is eager to scoop up more digital dollars, tapping stores will feature activewear David DeRobbio for the newly created role of senior executive and accessories including wind- director of digital sales. PAGE 9 proof and water-repellent running jackets; warm-up tops and A legal representative for stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé on trousers for working out; com- Tuesday filed defenses in the face of a lawsuit brought by fortable garments for yoga; ten- Balenciaga against her and Nicolas Ghesquière. PAGE 9 nis shorts, and protective fleece jackets for outdoor activities. François Kress, most recently president and chief operating h&M signaled its intention to officer of The Row, has been named global president of deepen its sportswear offering Stuart Weitzman Holdings LLC. PAGE 9 earlier this year when it said it would dress Sweden’s athletes Kate Middleton’s wedding tiara and Grace Kelly’s engagement for the Winter olympics and ring are among the star pieces of an exhibition on Cartier Paralympics in Sochi, russia, opening in Paris today. PAGE 10 next year and the Summer olympics and Paralympics in rio Those counting down to next May’s “Charles James: Beyond de Janeiro in 2016. The new h&M Sport collec- Fashion” exhibition at the Costume Institute will get their first tion for women, men and children preview today. PAGE 11 has been designed with input from members of the Swedish olympic on WWD.CoM team and will feature “fashionable” products with a “focus on fit and performance,” the retailer said. RUNWAY: See the latest reviews and runs of show for the “Sport and fitness is becoming who have provided feedback on special collection for men and pre-fall 2014 collections, including Altuzarra, Alexander Wang an increasingly important part of the collection. women featuring outfits suitable and Diane von Furstenberg. For more, see WWD.com. all of our lifestyles, and the new “What we wear definitely for yoga, running, working out, h&M Sport is there to help you makes a difference when we leisure wear or cycling. last win- look and feel great,” said Ann- compete,” she said. “our focus ter, it reintroduced skiwear. To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is Sofie Johansson, creative head of has been checking the pieces for earlier this year, it signed czech [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. design at h&M. fit and function, for performance tennis star Tomás Berdych as brand COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Swedish swimmer and olympic and also comfort.” ambassador, marking the first time VOLUME 206, NO. 114. WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and medalist Therese Alshammar is h&M began ramping up its h&M clothing was worn on court two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance one of the sports personalities sports offering in 2012 with a by a top-ranking tennis player. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write Penney’s Comps Rise 10.1% in November to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, LA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment. com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service J.c. PeNNeY co. iNc. continued release monthly figures last year, back into positive territory in address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within to gain momentum last month the company comped down 31.7 october, when sales at stores open one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever with comparable-store sales in- percent during the fourth quar- a least a year increased 0.9 percent. dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new creasing 10.1 percent. ter as former ceo ron Johnson The company also noted that subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd, sought to remake the chain. its e-commerce sales in November call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The chief executive officer, pointed to Ullman took back the reins “continued to be strong, running YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make the company’s product offering from Johnson earlier this year well ahead of last year.” our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would and promotions as the reasons and his return to a promotional investors were heartened by interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR for the increase. strategy and in-house brands ap- the afternoon update and shares DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED The company also benefited pears to be gaining some traction of the company rose 5.3 percent TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, from extremely easy compari- with the consumer. to $10.65 in after-hours trading UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND sons. Although Penney’s didn’t Penney’s saw its comps inch Tuesday. — Evan Clark OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w04a002a;10.indd 2 12/3/13 7:52 PM 12032013195255 We proudly present our jury for the inaugural CLIO Image Awards.

Entries are open. Learn more at ClioImage.com

Alain Bernard David Lauren Kate Phelan Robert Triefus Van Cleef & Arpels, Americas Ralph Lauren Topshop Gucci

Alex Gonzalez Dennis Freedman Kevin Carrigan Sam Sohaili AR New York Barneys New York Calvin Klein DMA United Marie Claire Town & Country Donald Schneider Lauren Bush Lauren Sheila Choi H&M FEED Estée Lauder & M.A.C. Andy Langer Roberts + Langer DDB Douglas Bensadoun Malcolm Poynton Stefano Tonchi Annie Leibovitz ALDO SapientNitro W Photographer Erik Vervroegen Neil Blumenthal Suzi Weiss-Fischmann Bruno Aveillan Publicis Worldwide Warby Parker OPI QUAD Gina Boswell Paul Ritter Todd Waterbury Catherine Sadler Glamour Target Banana Republic Unilever

Conor Brady Helane Blumfield Richard Christiansen Trey Laird Huge Macy’s Chandelier Creative Laird+Partners

David Hoey Julia Bowe Richard Ferretti Zoe Cassavetes Bergdorf Goodman Harvey Nichols Estée Lauder RSA Films

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

The ﬁ rst award show honoring creativity for advertising and marketing in fashion, beauty and retail. 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013

Altuzarra: For his ﬁrst pre-fall collection, Joseph Altuzarra Altuzarra Alexander Wang continued with a key concept from spring: “That sentiment of ease,” he said during a showroom presentation. “I was interested in comfort and how it can work with the idea of seduction.” While there were plenty of the designer’s signatures — i.e., strong-shouldered tailoring, body-skimming dresses, skirts with high side-slits — Altuzarra beautifully played up his proportions. A voluminous light gray double-faced coat with a cream lapel, for example, was worn with a sculpted cobalt blue skirt and gray top. The look was elegant and sophisticated. For a touch of whimsy, the designer mixed clashing plaids on a dress and, in a nod to his French heritage, showed sweaters featuring the phrase “Sapeurs-pompiers,” which is how the ﬁre service is known in France.

Alexander Wang: Before the small showroom presentation, Alexander Wang described his pre-fall lineup as “coming apart” and “peeling away,” though this collection actually looked more pulled-together than disheveled. Wang combined strong men’s wear and high-tech inﬂuences, demonstrated, for example, by a gray coat with diagonal pinstripes over a blue zip-up pullover, accessorized with a cool grocery baglike backpack with ﬂuorescent pullers for graphic contrast. The look was at once sporty and tailored. The distressed effects came in details such as the holes in a boxy white shirt that, as the press notes put it, was engineered to appear “moth eaten.” In Wang’s hands, even that had plenty of commercial edge. Altuzarra

Diane von Furstenberg: It was a tale of two cities at Diane von Furstenberg as the designer artfully merged two inspirations: the colorful, organic shapes of midcentury Venetian glass and the glamour and energy of New York. Prints were graphic and shown in rich hues and stark black-and-white. Von Furstenberg kept shapes relatively simple with maxidresses, a cutout tunic- and-pants combination and her 40th-anniversary wrap dress now featuring a jersey top and a crisp cotton bottom.

Lela Rose: Lela Rose’s collection brimmed with ladylike wares. A common theme was found in the undulating lines of sleeves and skirts, a look that tied back to the designer’s birdcage inspiration. “I love the idea of structure that is rounded but still has a bit of flow,” said Rose. Cagelike and filigree elements were worked via lush lace on a cocktail dress and as a print on slim pants and a boxy, cap-sleeve top. The latter looked great paired with a floral fil coupe party skirt.

Alice by Temperley: “She’s much sassier,” said Alice Temperley of her Alice girl when compared Pre-Fall to her main collection. For pre- fall, there were dresses with pleats, quilting or puff sleeves; bow blouses — some with sheer panels or lace insets — and short tuxedo jackets. Skirts ranged from quilted and ﬂippy to pencil- shaped with animal patterns. Evening comprised of ﬂoor- 2014 sweeping dark coats, as well as skirts and gowns with gold sequin swirls, lace and touches of sheer. WWD wednesday, december 4, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Alexander Wang Diane von Furstenberg Lela Rose

Alice by Temperley

For more pre-Fall

coverage, see e ON WWD.com/ cc

runway. ANNA I AS m HO AND T N e KS c I r e

le Y K JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY

w04a004(5)a;6.indd 2 12/3/13 6:41 PM 12032013184526 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013 Peter Kaplan Remembered A view of Donna Karan’s Urban Zen Holiday Marketplace.

into his 20s) was kicked out of his Tokyo By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG high school, but not before the schoolmas- ter told him, ‘ Yo u are [sic] worst experi- NEW YORK — In a send-off that was ence of my life,’” his brother recounted. true to the multihyphenated life he led, During a Harvard campus visit, Kaplan Peter Kaplan was remembered Tuesday — a talented cartoonist — happened to as a father, editor, mentor, prankster visit the school newspaper’s ofﬁce while and conﬁdante. John Updike was being interviewed. As An American cultural savant, who val- Kaplan listened in, he sketched a drawing ued a simple walk to the river as much of the author with a “big honker of a nose as anything else, Kaplan was celebrated and all,” James continued. “‘This looks for chasing knowledge as much as fun. like me I’m afraid,’ Updike wrote.” Kaplan, editorial director of WWD’s par- Later in the program, Peter Kaplan’s ent Fairchild Fashion Media, died Nov. 29 three adult children, Peter, Caroline and at age 59. Charles, took to the podium. (He also has Among those attending his funeral at a son David with his widow Lisa Chase.) the Larchmont Temple in Larchmont, Remembering the mystery rides his fa- N.Y., were Kaplan’s Harvard buddy Robert F. Kennedy Jr.,

Charlie Rose, Jill Abramson, OF DONNA KARAN PHOTOS COURTESY Glenn Close, Millard “Mickey” Drexler, Tom Wallace, Adam Moss, Deborah Needleman and Karan Opens Urban Zen Marketplace her husband Jacob Weisberg, Lynn Hirschberg, Roberta to serve up one of her favorite Donna- Myers, Stuart Emmrich, David By MARC KARIMZADEH isms: “I have always talked about Carr, Rick Stengel, Ken Aretsky dressing and addressing. It’s not only and Maurie Perl. Staffers past NEW YORK — The Soulful Economy. what you’re wearing on the outside and present from The New York It’s a movement Donna Karan is choos- but also on the inside. There is a soul Observer, which Kaplan helmed ing to embrace wholeheartedly with her there, an artisan hand. There is a con- for 15 years, turned out in force latest venture, the Urban Zen Holiday scious way of doing business.” including Candace Bushnell, Marketplace. The pop-up shopping en- The marketplace will ofﬁcially cel- Alex Kuczynski, George Gurley, vironment, which opened quietly this ebrate its opening tonight. Choire Sicha, Jared Kushner past weekend at the Urban Zen Center As for her favorite piece, the design- and Ken Kurson. (i.e. the West Village’s Stephan Weiss er couldn’t decide. “Every time I walk in Kaplan never lost his wit, Studio), aims to make a philanthropic according to his older brother difference with all kinds of artisanal James, who described the re- pieces from around the world. cent “heart-wrenching” hospital “I always feel it’s about the ar- scene when he told his family tisans,” Karan said during a walk- there were no other medical op- through of the space. “There are so tions. “Then Peter grinned a tiny many people who are really on this bit,” recalled James. “‘Feel free path right now so I said, ‘Why don’t we to use this as material,’ he said.” celebrate the whole concept of con- In paying tribute to his scious consumerism, of buying some- brother, James had plenty of thing and giving back and making a dif- material to work with. Recalling ference in somebody’s life?’” a chance Gene Kelly sighting Karan assembled hundreds of ob- in Midtown 30 years ago, when JIMI CELESTE jects, most of which are handmade, the brothers were working as Peter Kaplan from jewelry and handbags to wooden

Warner Bros. screenwriters, PHOTO BY dollhouses, furniture and rugs. Among Accessories by Elvis & Kresse. James said, “It is exactly as if the participants are English brand Elvis Gene Kelly had been materialized out of ther took them on that offered “no tour & Kresse, which recycles fire hoses for the ether specifically for Peter Kaplan’s down Madison Avenue, no sweeping view bags, while The Caliber Collection uses here, I buy,” she said. “I bought the jew- benefit. ‘Mr. Kelly!’ he called. ‘Hiya!’ ‘Hi!’ of the Emerald City,” his son Peter said, serial numbers from illegal guns and elry, I really want to buy everything.” said Gene Kelly with that lopsided Gene “Anyone who has ever been in a car with bullet casing metal for jewelry. Lemlem The market is set to be open through Kelly grin. Things like this had a way of my dad, on a train or on a walk from The by Liya Kebede; The FEED Foundation, Dec. 31, though Karan is already one happening around Peter.” Observer to the Viand even can attest that which was cofounded by Lauren Bush, step ahead. “I don’t think the Soulful While bussing tables one summer at the trip carried the utmost importance.” and the Sheila Johnson Collection are Economy is just about the holiday sea- Don’s Drive-In, Kaplan championed a re- To honor her music-loving father, also included in the mix. A portion of son,” she said. “Hopefully I will be able verse sex discrimination suit against the Caroline sang a cappella Irving Berlin’s each vendor’s proceeds will go to the to keep it up through fashion week. We burger joint for allowing women, not him, “What’ll I Do,” which they agreed was cause of their choice. want to open a little coffee bar here. to wait tables. As a high school exchange the best song ever written. Once she was Karan said the “Soulful Economy” That’s our next move: ‘Come here, buy student in Japan, he trekked up Mount done, several dabbed their eyes and one of concept will only grow‚ and was quick a cup of coffee and a whole lot more.’” Fuji one afternoon, got stranded at the Kaplan’s friends offered his own military summit and had to be led back down by salute. The crowd then made its way out- Japanese monks bearing torches. Kaplan doors and down to the banks of the river to (who was known to be a prankster well have a long look at one of his favorite views. American Eagle Inks Overseas Deals

ny’s first overseas freestanding aerie con- By VICKI M. YOUNG cept store opened Tuesday in a mall in Madison Ave.’s ‘Miracle Saturday’ Set Israel. The store is about 894 square feet AMERICAN EAGLE Outfitters Inc. is and is not next to an American Eagle site. style on Thursday, when The Society of expanding its presence in the Americas While many of the stores in the U.S. By DAVID MOIN MSKCC president Martha Vietor Glass, and in Asia-Pacific. are about 7,000 square feet, Nankervis along with event chairs Muffie Potter The teen retailer has signed three said those overseas range on average ALTHOUGH it’s that time of year when Aston and Courtney Arnot, flip the switch new licensing agreements for stores from 4,000 square feet to over 7,000 retailers battle each other tooth and nail to ignite the “shooting stars” on the lamp that are set to begin opening in time for square feet, depending on location and for business, on Madison Avenue there’s a poles along Madison Avenue. The Hewitt back-to-school in 2014. availability of real estate. collaborative disposition this week. Carolers, a choir of second graders, will According to Simon Nankervis, se- The next overseas American Eagle Graff, Georg Jensen, Gucci, Ralph also be performing. nior vice president for the Americas store slated to open is in Shanghai Lauren, Mulberry and Missoni are among Town & Country magazine, for the and global licensing, one agreement on Dec. 24. 85 retailers from 57th to 86th Streets par- first time, is the media partner for the is with Grupo David Enterprises. Robert Hanson, American Eagle’s ticipating in “Miracle Saturday” on Dec. day and has created a 44-page gift guide That contract covers Venezuela, the chief executive officer, said, “As we 7 by donating 20 percent of their sales — for the Madison Avenue retailers for the Caribbean Islands and, in Central continue to execute upon our strategic up to $15,000 — to support the pediatric December issue focusing on philanthropy. America, the countries of Panama, plan for global expansion, we are eager initiatives of The Society of Memorial The magazine will give another lift to the Costa Rica, Honduras, Guatemala, El to introduce our brands to these grow- Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center. That’s cause by stationing editors in the stores Salvador, Nicaragua and Belize. ing and lively international locations.” 25 more than last year’s miracle day, ac- Saturday to help shoppers with selections A separate agreement was signed with American Eagle currently has 62 cording to the Madison Avenue Business and styling tips. Grupo Comercializadoras for Colombia. stores internationally. It operates its Improvement District which organizes “It will be a personalized experience In Asia-Pacific, the retailer signed own stores in China, Hong Kong and the event. “The season of giving has been that Town & Country editors bring to the an agreement with Pacifica Lifestyle Mexico. The other overseas locations imbued with the spirit of partnership on avenue,” said Jennifer Levene Bruno, the Co. for stores in Thailand. are licensed operations. The licensed Madison Avenue,” said Matthew Bauer, magazine’s publisher. Town & Country also All agreements are for two, five-year stores include those in the United president of the Madison Avenue BID. created a gift guide for Rodeo Drive retail- tranches. Each agreement also allows Arab Emirates, Kuwait, the Russian “This is a 27-year philanthropic tradition ers, polybagged with magazines distributed the licensing partner to open aerie con- Federation, Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, supporting children in need.” on the West Coast. Rodeo Drive retailers cept shops-in-shop or side-by-side stores. Jordan, Morocco, Egypt, Israel, Japan, The event gets promoted in grand are conducting their own charity efforts. Separately, Nankervis said the compa- Poland and the Philippines. WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013 7 WWD.COM

Cyber Monday Strong, but Growth Slows {Continued from page one} Brown said. “In 2017, when day period — including Sunday retailers were seeing 20 percent Christmas falls on a Monday, and Cyber Monday — was up to 50 percent growth from last Sunday delivery will be huge.” more than 45 percent from 2012. year — a sharp increase from The real advantage for This year, the flash-sale site percentages in the high teens that Amazon will come from its swift started its Cyber Monday sales

were observed earlier in the day. logistics network, which has on Sunday at 9 p.m. EST to cater Despite industry sentiments a later cut-off date for guar- to an increasingly international that sales occurring earlier and anteed delivery by Christmas. audience, according to Michelle earlier are diminishing the sig- It’s this — and not necessarily Peluso, Gilt Groupe’s chief exec- nificance of Cyber Monday, she Sunday delivery — that will give utive officer. Although it makes doesn’t believe this is the case. Amazon an edge over competi- it harder to compare sales “Cyber Monday hasn’t pla- tors, he said. ’’ to last year, which kicked off teaued yet; it still has a few good Nasty Gal’s vice president the morning of Cyber Monday, years ahead,” Mulpuru said. of brand marketing Christian Peluso was keen on testing this She said the days leading up Parkes said that the biggest shift time slot with global shoppers. to shipping deadlines will also at the e-tailer was a focus on the Currently, about 10 percent of Nasty Gal launched a “Blackout” sale see strong sales growth, and the entire period from Thanksgiving the site’s sales come from out- on Thanksgiving and Black Friday. week after Christmas will slow through Monday, and not just side the U.S., with another 10 down for e-tailers because they Cyber Monday. For the first time, percent coming from Gilt’s joint don’t have the “inventory glut the site launched a two-day venture with Japan. (The site is that stores have.” Thanksgiving and Black Friday translated into Japanese.) od from Thanksgiving to Cyber strong as Thursday and Friday. Michael Brown, partner in “Blackout” sale, where every- Mobile sales from Thursday Monday marked the best five- We didn’t see the same spike. The the retail practice of global man- thing black on the site was 40 to Saturday comprised more day stretch in online sales for highest demand day was Friday.” agement consulting firm A . T. percent off. On Sunday, Monday than 50 percent of Gilt’s over- the retailer ever. Walmart.com She attributed the outcome Kearney, agreed. Late shipping and Tuesday, all full-priced all business, but this number processed more than one billion online for the past few days deadlines from e-tailers like merchandise on the site was 30 dropped slightly to 48 percent page views over the five days. to consumers shopping ear- Amazon will help when it comes In general, though, multi- lier, encouraged by widespread to securing last-minute sales. channel retailers reported that promoting, and Scoop ramp- Amazon will offer one-day Cyber Monday sales were very ing up its communications last shipping as low as $2.99 an item Cyber Monday hasn’t plateaued yet; good but not the blockbusters Thursday and Friday. Online for Amazon Prime members as of recent years. They attributed bestsellers for Scoop were foot- late as midnight on Dec. 23 and it still has a few good years ahead. the change to consumers drawn wear, particularly boots; leather local express delivery for $3.99 to shopping earlier as both mul- jackets; cashmere sweaters; an item on Dec. 24 where avail- tichannel and pure plays pro- men’s outerwear, and higher- able. Amazon’s local delivery is — Sucharita Mulpuru, forreSter reSearch moted more heavily this year priced items generally, accord- available in New York City, parts earlier in the season. There ing to Davidson. of New Jersey, Philadelphia, was also a greater tendency by One department store execu- Boston, Washington, Baltimore, percent off. He said that Cyber for Sunday and Monday. Peluso consumers to use the Web to re- tive, who requested anonymity, Chicago, Indianapolis, Phoenix, Monday was the biggest day of attributed the dip in mobile ac- search and reserve products in gave a similar assessment. Seattle and the San Bernadino the year sales-wise. tivity to consumers returning to the stores, and visit the stores to “It’s my guess that Cyber area of California. Across the entire five-day work after the holiday weekend actually make the purchase and Monday was a good day for ev- However, Brown doesn’t think period Nastygal.com saw “re- and shopping at their desks. take the products home. eryone” though not a magnifi- that Amazon’s deal with the U.S. ally healthy” double-digit growth, But the pure-play retailers by As far as the overall four-day cent one. “I don’t think that’s Postal Service — which for the with triple-digit growth for no means had Cyber Monday to Thanksgiving period, Susan surprising. Promoting online first time will deliver online Thursday and Friday. The num- themselves. Davidson, ceo of Scoop, cited may have been spread out over orders on Sunday to Amazon ber of unique visitors was up 30 Wal-Mart Stores Inc., which a 200 percent gain, largely be- time up to Cyber Monday, like Prime members in Los Angeles percent and total visitors were up is working to integrate its Web cause the retailer earlier this everything else. I think it will and New York City — will have nearly 50 percent year on year. operations and physical stores, year redesigned its Web site and be less promotional online from much of an impact on the online “From a consumer stand- seemed gleeful after the online changed the platform. “We’re here on. But the tone of the behemoth or its competitors. point, there’s an appetite that shopping rush.’’ fully reaping the benefits. We business feels good.” “Amazon’s deal with the Post extends outside of that single- “We had an all-time re- are very, very pleased with our In terms of product and pro- Office will continue to add to day period [Cyber Monday],” cord sales day yesterday as investment in the back-end and moting, the experience online their ability to rapidly fulfill Parkes said. the momentum we saw on the redesign.” and in the stores was inconsistent consumers’ e-commerce pur- Gilt Groupe, which on Thanksgiving carried through However, the business wasn’t through last Monday “with differ- chases faster than most other re- Monday reported that sales from to Cyber Monday,” said Joel distributed evenly through the ent kinds of promotions and differ- tailers. With Christmas being on Wednesday through Saturday Anderson, president and ceo of Thanksgiving-through-Cyber- ent products,” said the executive. a Wednesday this year, Sunday were up more than 40 percent walmart.com U.S., on Tuesday. Monday-period. As Davidson — With contributions won’t be too big of a deal,” year over year, said that the five- The company said the peri- said, “Cyber Monday was not as from DaviD moin

A valet parking service has been introduced Westfield Updates Garden State Plaza to cater to Neiman Marcus shoppers. yet to be leased. delier outside Neiman’s. “This By SHArON EDELSON At the same time that the is the closest Neiman Marcus fashion district is being built, to Manhattan,” Gaus said. “We NEW YOrK — At a time when the center is focusing on up- want to honor that.” few new malls are being built in scale retail and filling out a A|X Armani Exchange is the U.S., the Australian develop- section of the first floor near moving from another loca- er Westfield is reinvesting in ex- Tiffany & Co., Gucci and Louis tion in the mall and opening a isting properties in an effort to Vuitton that Westfield sees be- 4,200-square-foot store based squeeze more profits from them. coming a luxury district. “We’re on a new prototype. Several in- A prime example is Westfield looking to expand luxury. This ternational retailers will open Garden State Plaza, located 12 is a bedroom community of their first U.S. stores or first miles northwest of Manhattan Manhattan,” Gaus said, explain- stores in the market at Garden in Paramus, N.J., where a fash- ing that customers in the area State Plaza. The lesser-known will launch one of its first per- “We’re looking forward to open- ion district is under construc- are sophisticated. retailers will give a boutiquelike manent stores; others have been ing at Westfield Garden State tion. A new parking deck for A new seating section with vibe to the district, said Velda short-term units or pop-ups. Plaza, where customers will be the addition was completed in Knoll Carerra marble tables, Turan, vice president of leasing, Lush and Urban Outfitters are able to experience the choice, November. The cost of the proj- Tom Dixon chairs, custom light- Northwest regional office. moving from elsewhere in the value and service our stores are ect is $160 million, said Bryan ing and a concierge desk is open- Kiko Makeup Milano will mall and expanding, Lush from known for.” Gaus, senior general manager ing. A new valet parking service launch its first U.S. unit at the 450 square feet to 1,200 square Gaus said, “We’re selecting of Westfield Garden State Plaza. has been introduced to cater to mall. “They’re all over Europe,” feet and Urban from 8,500 brands that meet if not exceed The 55,000-square-foot ad- shoppers of Neiman Marcus and Turan said. “They have a pret- square feet to 14,000 square feet our current average sales per dition will accommodate 23 the other high-end stores as well ty aggressive U.S. [expansion] on two levels. square foot.” Garden State Plaza retailers opening in March, as the new fashion district. plan.” Triumph intimate apparel “Technology is a big category,” is highly productive, with sales including Tory Burch, Vince Burch is opening a will unveil its third U.S. store and Gaus said, noting that Microsoft of more than $775 per square Camuto, Maje, Sandro, Scotch 3,000-square-foot store in the robin’s Jean, a high-end denim will open a 4,200-square-foot unit foot, well above the national & Soda, A|X Armani Exchange district. The large corner unit, purveyor with stores in SoHo and similar to its popular pop-up average of $455, according to and Microsoft, bringing the cen- with a 25-foot-high facade, is at Beverly Hills, will open. in Times Square last year. With retail Property Insights. ter to 2.2 million square feet of the entrance to the new wing, Lululemon’s new Ivivva con- only 82 stores in the U.S., Canada Food will add another el- leasable space. The upper level, which is strategically located cept is geared to tween girls and Puerto rico, Microsoft has ement to the district with where most of the stores are near Neiman’s. High-end mate- with yoga and lifestyle apparel. been choosy about its real estate. Max Brenner Chocolate Café located, is about 35,000 square rials are being used to build the “They only have a handful of Said Kelly Soligon, senior di- opening its first unit outside feet. A 20,000-square-foot retail new wing, such as Carerra mar- stores in Canada,” she said. rector of marketing and experi- Manhattan, and Starbucks’ first space on the ground floor has ble on floors and a custom chan- There’s also Havaianas, which ences for Microsoft retail stores, location in the mall.

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8 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013

who are more sophisticated tend China Fortifies’’ Rules on Spending to become subtler with how they project their wealth.” Lu added: “However, I do {Continued from page one} luxury think tank in Beijing. In a luxury report released ences instead of an expensive think the current climate defi- to be under serious constraints Yet, according to Zhou, there last month, Fortune Character handbag. “The bigger hit is com- nitely encourages a departure in coming months,” Shaun are other factors that will have a Institute projected high-net- ing from Chinese consumers not from conspicuous luxury con- Rein, managing director of potentially larger impact on the worth Chinese consumers, who wanting to buy luxury products sumption. Yo u are seeing an in- China Market Research, a con- sale of luxury goods in China. are the core buyers of luxury anymore,” Rein said. “Pollution creasing focus on experiences, sultancy in Shanghai, said. Against the backdrop of slowing products, will increasingly pur- is so bad, they are looking for ex- real estate and investment op- “The crackdown is far more economic growth and a new gov- chase these goods overseas. periential [consumption], travel- portunities. It is important to serious than analysts projected ernment working to reengineer Marginal consumers, or those ing, getting out, clean air. A lot of understand the effects that the and will continue to impact lux- China’s economy toward more with less spending power who women are buying cheaper ac- corruption campaign has had on ury gift-giving. The crackdown the entire psyche of Chinese con- on corruption is so serious that sumers. The signals coming from officials can no longer help, so the government definitely have people are giving smaller gifts, The signals coming from the government definitely had a direct effect on luxury something cheaper.” consumer behavior and, in many “For very high-end products, have had a direct effect on luxury consumer behavior ways, I think that is the point.” I would not be surprised if sales For luxury players, what all are hurt,” James Button, a se- and, in many ways, I think that is the point. this means is embracing adapt- nior manager with Smith Street ability. Adopting new strategies Solutions, a Shanghai-based con- — CHRISTINE LU, AFFINITY CHINA to reach an increasingly complex sultancy, said. “They can’t justify Chinese market will be the key spending that much on something to survival, according to Button the way they could before. But sustainable growth alongside have less-sophisticated knowl- cessories and spending the rest of Smith Street Solutions. There Chinese New Year is one of the a campaign to infuse hard-line edge of brands and who are of their money on a trip.” is still consumer confidence; it top times to travel abroad. The Communist doctrine across mul- influenced by core consumers, There is also a noticeable shift is just now consumers are much spending may not be in China.” tiple layers of society, affluent will also decrease luxury spend- away from more mass luxury more disciplined about how they Bain & Co. projects luxury Chinese feel increasingly worried ing in China. “In the next three brands to niche labels with un- spend and what they buy. sales in China will reach $21 bil- about political stability and the to five years, the escape of the derstated sophistication. With a “The market is not growing lion in 2013, an increase of just security of their assets at home. core consumers will negatively decline in gift-giving, Chinese are as quickly as it used to, and it is 2.5 percent from last year. In 2012, “Chinese are always sensitive impact the consumption enthu- more focused on what they can definitely shifting,” Button said. luxury-goods sales increased to the political situation,” Zhou siasm of marginal and potential buy for themselves, and more fo- “When talking about winners by 20 percent. Sectors that have said. “Although they still have consumers,” the study said. “As cused on individuality.’’ and losers, for most brands, it is been the hardest hit include lux- strong buying power, they will a result, luxury brands will ex- “Just a few years ago, clients a function of how you react to it. ury watches, accessories, alcohol, worry about their businesses and perience a large-scale decline.” tended to be interested in luxury For most of the traditional luxury high-end catering and cars. living situation, which will de- Luxury sales to Chinese are goods that were more conspicu- players, it is how do you reset “People will continue to feel crease their expenditure in China and will continue to be influ- ous in style and flash factor,” your business for this environ- more cautious when buying gifts and spend more overseas. Their enced by changing consumer said Christine Lu, a cofounder ment? That has been happening for government officials, or they purchasing behavior will influ- tastes. Rein, of China Market of Affinity China, a company that for a while and most of them have will find other gifts to give, such ence luxury brand sales in China Research, said his firm is find- offers tailor-made overseas trips gotten the message, but the new as art,” said Zhou Ting, head of in the short term but also cause ing more Chinese who would for affluent Chinese. “In the last regulations reinforce that this is Fortune Character Institute, a huge changes in the future.” rather spend money on experi- year, that has changed. Those something they must be doing.”

DENIM “I-Skool,” where students will have the opportunity to work with the newest denim technologies and visit laundries. A jury of denim and other fashion ex- New Fabric Ideas Lead in Denim PV Paris Finale perts is to select the most talented students. “There is a lack of knowledge Kingpins, expected to gather around 20 ing or applying printed foils.” [among students], not theoretical but tech- By LAURE GUILBAULT premium denim mills and suppliers, to Paris-based designer Alexandre nical,” said Marco Lucietti, ISKO global be held in Amsterdam on May 7 and 8. Mattiussi of the French men’s wear label marketing director. “We want to narrow PARIS — News of Denim by Première Exhibitors and visitors largely voiced Ami visited the show for the first time. the gap between the industry and schools.” Vision’s imminent move to Barcelona as approval of the relocation to Barcelona, “We are doing more and more denim. It European design and fashion schools of spring didn’t overshadow innovations’ although some attendees pointed out is a successful part of the collection, es- involved are Istituto Marangoni from Italy, starring role at the fair, which was held that Northern Europe and particularly pecially the pants and jackets,” he said. ESMOD Münich from Germany, Istanbul here Nov. 27 and 28. Holland would be better suited for a Mattiussi said he was looking for raw, Moda Academy from Turkey, and the “Stretch technology and the increased denim showcase. “almost cardboard” cloth, “the Japanese London College of Fashion and Chelsea use of performance fibers in new innova- At the Paris fair, buyers sought spe- kind of denim,” which he likened to a College from the U.K. “We aim for it to tive shades and constructions was a key cific performance qualities. “canvas that acquires a patina over time.” be a global project, meaning to have one trend,” said Neil Bell, global material “We are working at getting a softer Designing French brothers Hervé and school from the U.S., one from Japan, one fabric and fiber innovation director at hand to the fabrics. Softer fabrics are Steeve Chiche praised Moroccan laundry from China” joining the program, he said. Levi Strauss & Co. very important for women’s denim,” said New Wash and Turkey’s System Tekstil The show gathered 87 exhibitors includ- The show demonstrated how denim is entering an era of collaboration as a route to newness. For example, fiber producers FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Invista and Lenzing held a joint press con- ference to present new cellulosic denim WWD.com/ fabrics with improved shape retention by markets-news. combining Invista’s Lycra DualFX fabric technology with Lenzing’s Tencel fiber. Denim is merging with other disciplines like sports. Turkish weaver ISKO’s A New Generation of Future Face fabrics can be used for yoga or running pants. There is also Orta Anadolu’s Coldblack technology with thermo-regulation properties, keeping users from feeling too warm during summer while also guaranteeing UV protection. Among other key trends for spring 2015 were graphic patchworks, ghostly patterns, red-cast denim with a purple tint, variations on indigo, stretch for men that still looks masculine and looser fits, like the “slouchy boyfriend,” as phrased DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE by denim guru Adriano Goldschmied. The final Denim by Première Vision in Paris Denim at Dynamo Still, the show’s move, and the chang- held at La Halle Freyssinet. Denim Kumascilik. ing face of denim exhibitions in Europe, PHOTOS BY was a major topic of conversation. “Denim is an industry that keeps mov- Goldschmied, who is executive vice presi- for their latest developments, as well as ing other weavers like Bossa and Tavex. ing,” Denim by Première Vision direc- dent of product development for Citizens weaver Berto for its very high-end fabrics. The visitor count increased 20 per- tor Chantal Malingrey-Perrin said. “We of Humanity and founder and creative With its Future Face initiative, ISKO cent versus November 2012 to 3,202, had been looking for a space that would director of the GoldSign label. “We are has aimed to widen its customer base to with attendance rising 48 percent from give a new breath to the fair,” she said of looking for blends, mostly cupro, that “not just denim brands, but sports brands Turkey, 24 percent from Portugal and, next year’s move to Spain. The next edi- have a very silky feel. We are also using or fashion labels doing sportswear,” ac- despite the Thanksgiving holiday, 8 per- tion of Denim by Première Vision will Modal, ProModal, Tencel, rayon, etc.” cording to ISKO senior marketing execu- cent from the U.S., according to show be held at the Montjuïc exhibition cen- Goldschmied also cited a trend to- tive Banu Yenici. organizers. U.S. buyers included rep- ter in Barcelona on May 21 and 22, not wards coated denim, including “varia- The mill also presented its concept for resentatives from Ralph Lauren, Seven long after the first European edition of tions such as lasering on the top of coat- a partnership with fashion schools, dubbed For All Mankind and J Brand. WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013 9 WWD.COM François Kress Balenciaga Trial Inches Forward

or $9.2 million at current exchange, over an interview Joins Weitzman By MILES SOCHA Ghesquière and Sauvé granted to upstart London-based fashion magazine System earlier this year. PARIS — A legal representative for stylist Marie-Amélie The suit mentions multiple quotes by Ghesquière from By LISA LOCKWOOD Sauvé on Tuesday filed defenses in the face of a lawsuit the cover story, which ran over 30 pages. One of them brought by Balenciaga against her and its former designer reads: “…I began to feel as though I was sucked dr y, like NEW YORK — François Kress has been Nicolas Ghesquière for remarks that the fashion house they wanted to steal my identity while trying to homog- named global president of Stuart Weitzman deemed harmful. enize things.” Holdings LLC. At a brief administrative session at the Tribunal de According to counsel for Balenciaga, when Most recently, he was president and chief Grande Instance of Paris, the court set Feb. 4 as the date Ghesquière exited the house a year ago, the separation operating officer of The Row. Earlier, he when Balenciaga is to file submissions in reply to Sauvé’s agreement stipulated that he refrain from declarations was president and chief executive officer of arguments and Ghesquière’s, which were already depos- that could hurt the image of the fashion house, owned by Prada and Miu Miu USA and ceo and manag- ited last October. France’s Kering. ing director of Bulgari America. A date for pleadings has yet to be fixed, and it is under- Last month, Kering’s luxury rival LVMH Moët A spokeswoman for The Row said Kress’ stood the civil case could take a few years to wind its way Hennessy Louis Vuitton tapped Ghesquière to become successor hasn’t been named yet. through the French courts. Vuitton’s artistic director of women’s collections, succeed- Kress, who reports to Wayne Kulkin, ceo of Court documents obtained by WWD in September ing Marc Jacobs. Ghesquière is slated to show his first col- Weitzman, is based at company headquarters show Balenciaga is seeking damages of 7 million euros, lection for Vuitton in March. at 625 Madison Avenue here. Kress will over- see all aspects of the $300 million global retail and wholesale business, in addition to spear- heading new initiatives and brand extensions. “François will be a key catalyst in driving new initiatives as well as leading and col- Burton Unveils U.S. Olympic Snowboard Look laborating with our talented management team already in place around the world,” dealers to score a large patchwork quilt with a decid- said Kulkin. By KIM FRIDAY edly Americana feel to it, as well as a vintage American “I think there are very few brands with so flag. Dacyshyn sent his finds to the grandmother of a much opportunity as Stuart Weitzman. It’s a NEW YORK — When the 2014 Burton employee who is an avid quilter, requesting she real designer brand with strong brand iden- Winter Olympics take place in disassemble and rearrange the patches to his liking. tity. The team is fantastic and the product is Sochi, Russia, Feb. 7 to 23, the The finished product was then dye sublimation impeccable, there’s still a lot of room to grow U.S. snowboarding team will be printed onto nylon featuring a breathable lami- internationally,” said Kress in an interview. sporting Burton. The Vermont-based nate coating called Dryride that will keep rid- brand unveiled the original men’s and ers dry amid the unpredictable conditions. women’s designs at its flagship here “We also made the marker large enough so Tuesday night. the pattern would be slightly different on Chief creative officer Greg each jacket, with only the flag in the same 5% Dacyshyn said the project had been in spot on the sleeve for all of them,” he said. the works for more than 18 months, be- The competition uniform is comprised CURRENT SHARE OF STUART WEITZMAN’S ginning with a roundtable of riders to of the nylon jacket; a wool, polyester and start a dialogue. “Snowboarding is such nylon fleece crewneck; a polyester Henley; SALES COMING FROM HANDBAGS. an individual sport,” he noted. “It’s all polyester pants that resemble corduroy; a about self-expression and irrever- selection of hats, and waterproof cowhide ence, so the idea of a uniform is sort gloves or mittens. For the village there is an Kulkin said that Kress “brings such a of counterintuitive. My goal was to additional down jacket. wealth of knowledge,” to the post, with his create something different that the While the uniforms won’t be available for past experience in not only footwear, but ac- riders could feel good in, be protected purchase, a small capsule of hoodies, T-shirts and cessories and handbags. in, yet still be unique.” accessories featuring prints Weitzman is reinvesting in handbags, a Dacyshyn’s first stop was the Brimfield The Burton-designed and artwork inspired by the category it has tried to establish in the past. Antique and Collectibles Show in Brimfield, uniform for the U.S. Olympic styles, will be sold At present, handbags comprise 5 percent of Mass., where he sorted through the nearly 6,000 snowboarding team. in Burton flagships. sales, but Kulkin said they are getting more serious about bags and adding more structure to the business. It expects that over the next three years, the category could grow to 20 percent of Weitzman’s volume. Quiksilver Looking to Trim Portfolio Today, Weitzman’s business is equally di- vided among international wholesale sales, North American wholesale sales and direct- operations in both countries.” to-consumer (retail and e-commerce) sales. By ARNOLD J. KARR He said the corporate downsizing “will allow man- In September, Weitzman opened a Milan agement to focus on expanding our three core brands — flagship on Via Sant’Andrea. The Milan QUIKSILVER INC. plans to continue paring back its op- Quiksilver, Roxy and DC Shoes — along with driving ad- store was the first featuring a new retail erations to focus on the Quiksilver, Roxy and DC Shoes ditional operational efficiencies.” concept designed by architect Zaha Hadid. businesses. The Mervin, Surfdome, Hawk, Moskova and Maui busi- Additional flagships designed by Hadid are The Huntington Beach, Calif.-based company said Tuesday nesses have been reclassified as discontinued operations. slated to open in Hong Kong, Rome and New that it is looking to sell its Surfdome, Hawk and Moskova For the fiscal year ended Oct. 31, Quiksilver said the dis- York in 2014, with more to follow. brands as well as its Maui and Sons licensed business. continued operations had sales of $83.2 million and gross Kulkin said there are 103 stores globally, The firm recently completed the sale of its Mervin profits of $43 million. In the prior year, the whole company and three Web sites — in the U.S., Canada Manufacturing snowboard subsidiary for $58 million, had gross profits of $980.3 million on sales of $2.01 billion. and Western Europe. Weitzman will es- purchased the minority interests in its joint ventures in Quiksilver agreed to sell Mervin to Extreme Holdings tablish e-commerce sites in Hong Kong in Mexico and Brazil and established a 60 million euro, or Inc. on Oct. 23. Financial terms weren’t disclosed at the March and Mainland China in July. The $79.3 million at current exchange, European credit facility time of the agreement. The snowboard firm had sales of company intends to have 150 stores in op- with Eurofactor. $32 million in the preceding 12 months. eration by the end of 2014, with new stores “These transactions represent additional milestones The Mervin transaction continues Quiksilver’s slow depar- slated for the U.S., Asia Pacific, Middle East in executing our multiyear profit improvement plan,” ture from the equipment market. It sold ski maker Rossignol and Europe, among other regions. said Andy Mooney, president and chief executive of- to Chartreuse & Montblanc for $50.9 million in late 2008 after It also looks to expand through brand exten- ficer of Quiksilver. “We used a portion of the Mervin paying about $320 million for the company in 2005. sions. Watches and eyewear are potential cat- proceeds to invest in our high-growth subsidiaries in Shares of Quiksilver closed at $8.64, down 6 cents, or egories that could be housed in its boutiques. Mexico and Brazil, and we now own 100 percent of our 0.7 percent, on Tuesday.

Nast’s digital advertising solutions and relationships between our audiences historically been dominated by print.” MEMO PAD partnerships. and their brands.” Townsend added that “given the The digital executive will report Chief executive officer Charles difficulties” the industry is facing to Josh Stinchcomb, Condé Nast Media Townsend echoed the importance of the with the “dated newsstand channel CONDÉ’S DIGITAL MOVES: Condé Nast is Group vice president of corporate digital business in a memo to Condé of distribution,” the company is eager to scoop up more digital dollars, partnerships. Nast employees Tuesday. “proactively” building a strategy around tapping David DeRobbio for the newly “Similarly to our print audience, “On the business side, 2013 is shaping growing its print and digital subscriber created role of senior executive director our digital platforms attract a large and up to be a year of strong economic base. One such way Condé Nast has of digital sales. DeRobbio, who most highly influential group of consumers,” recovery for us. In fact, several of our attempted to do that has been via a recently held the post of vice president said Lou Cona, Condé Nast Media Group brands are on course to have their most new partnership with Amazon, through of digital sales at NBC News, where president and chief revenue officer. profitable year ever,” Townsend said. which consumers can buy, manage he was responsible for Today.com, “In this new position, David will “And, for the first time, digital operating and renew their print and digital NBCNews.com, iVillage and Msnbc.com, work with our advertising partners to profit is significantly contributing to our subscriptions, he offered. has been charged with expanding Condé identify digital opportunities and build financial results, which as you know, have — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013

A rotating column of Cartier’s Halo tiara, worn diamond tiaras greets visitors “Cartier — Style and History” by Kate Middleton. entering the darkened Salon at the Grand Palais. d’honneur. The exhibit traces the

evolution from the garland- style diamond brooches of the mid-19th century to the modern MUSÉES looks launched circa 1910, based on geometric motifs and DES

incorporating the use of more 2013

vividly colored stones — such RÉUNION PARIS as a diamond, emerald, coral THE

and pearl bracelet that once FOR

belonged to socialite Daisy PALAIS,

Fellowes. PLOWY

Pieces on public display GRAND

eye — for the first time include the DIDIER 478-carat cushion-cut sapphire BY owned by Queen Marie of NATIONAUX Romania — billed as one of PHOTO the largest cut sapphires ever spectacular necklace ordered be worn as a necklace. It also documented. by the Maharaja of Patiala features a section on American Among other notable items in 1928, featuring a replica heiress Marjorie Merriweather Crown Jewel is a flower-shaped brooch of the original 234.65-carat Post, with items on loan from set with the Williamson pink De Beers diamond that was Hillwood, the private museum diamond, a favorite of Britain’s its centerpiece, and a sword operating in her former estate KATE MIDDLETON’S wedding art is a part of Cartier and Queen Elizabeth II. This is on designed by French poet Jean in Washington, D.C. tiara and Grace Kelly’s Cartier is a part of art. The loan from the Royal Collection, Cocteau to celebrate “We are really happy engagement ring are among the letters A-R-T even feature in as is Middleton’s Halo tiara, his entry into the to showcase her, because star pieces of an exhibition on the word Cartier. And I think originally purchased by the-then French Academy. Liz Taylor and Grace of Cartier opening in Paris today. you can see the value of the Duke of York (later King George On the watchmaking Monaco are well-known Billed as the most extensive style, its uniqueness and the VI) for his wife in 1936 and later front, there are early personalities that could show to date dedicated to the fact that the Cartier style is given to their daughter Elizabeth examples of the also be linked to other French jeweler, famed for its both universal and timeless.” II on her 18th birthday. Tank, alongside jewelers they bought panther-themed jewelry and Though the executive Cartier has also loaned a photograph of from. But Marjorie Tank watches, “Cartier — Style declined to provide figures, a restored version of the silent movie actor Post is a character that and History” is set to run at the Cartier generates the lion’s Rudolph Valentino European visitors Grand Palais until Feb. 16. It share of sales at luxury wearing his in the will be relatively showcases more than 600 items conglomerate Compagnie 1926 movie “The Son unfamiliar with and ranging from fine jewelry and Financière Richemont, which of the Sheik.” who was Cartier’s watches to decorative objects, totaled 10.15 billion euros, or A central rotunda biggest customer in many reflecting the influence $13.09 billion, in the financial displays 18 examples New York,” Dalon said. of exotic locations like China year ending March 31. of Mystery Clocks, of De Quercize said and India. Most are drawn from The Grand Palais show is which only about 100 further exhibitions Cartier’s extensive archives, organized chronologically and were made between are planned in but about 100 items are on loan features scores of illustrations 1912 and 1930. These Shanghai in July and from private collections. and documents, alongside feature rotating dials Denver in November. “Never before have we period clothing, designed to put made from rock crystal “We think it is part shared with the public this the creations in context. that make it appear that of our mission to share, many items,” said Stanislas “I really think there are the clock’s hands are because 90 percent de Quercize, Cartier’s chief a lot of surprises awaiting floating in thin air. The Tank of men and women executive officer. Noting that the visitors to this show,” said The latter section watch, 1920. nowadays buy jewelry last major exhibition on Cartier Laurence Dalon, one of the of the exhibit puts that is not signed, in the French capital was held two curators who devised the the spotlight on which is a mistake. in 1989, he said the fine jewelry exhibit. “When I started work celebrity clients such as Yo u wouldn’t buy a painting segment was thriving as clients on the exhibition, I had no idea Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess that isn’t signed. So you have worldwide become increasingly there was such a strong family of Windsor and Mexican to explain the style, the history savvy and demanding. backbone to the house, nor that actress María Félix, who and the long-term value of these “We are celebrating a golden it was founded as early as the owned pieces including two objects,” the executive said. age,” said de Quercize. “Clearly, middle of the 19th century.” Cartier’s Patiala necklace, 1928. imposing crocodiles that could — JOELLE DIDERICH

actually annihilate myself on stage, not Richard Linklater, Rashida that anyone would know because no one’s Bobby Cannavale Jones listening. But I want to thank you from the and Ethan Hawke and Amy bottom of my big, fat, French heart.” with Julie Delpy Poehler Many of the players making the rounds in Philosophy di on the awards circuit were in attendance. Alberta Ferretti. Oscar Isaac, whose “Inside Llewyn Davis” won Best Feature, and Rashida Jones, John Goodman and Darren Aronofsky took turns presenting. Also in the crowd were Michael B. Jordan, who won the award for Breakthrough Actor for “Fruitvale Station,” Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Forest Whitaker, Amy Poehler, Morgan Spurlock, Lupita Nyong’o and Shailene Woodley. There was one emotional moment amid all the self-promotion: Steve Buscemi teared up during a tribute to the late James Gandolﬁni. With the holiday season approaching, actors at the Euphoria Calvin Klein- sponsored event dished on their

FALK upcoming plans. Brie Larson, whose performance in “Short EVAN

BY Term 12” beat the seemingly unbeatable Victory Lap Cate Blanchett for the Best Actress prize, asked for a “sleep suit” for Christmas. PHOTOS “It’s a sleeping bag, and a one-piece suit SURE, THE grand ballroom at Cipriani McConaughey seems like a lock for an Oscar failed attempt at putting the actor on [you can wear],” she explained. “They Wall Street in Manhattan on Monday nomination for “Dallas Buyers Club,” and speakerphone. can [withstand] as little as 35 degrees night was star-studded, but the vibe at the he was honored with Gotham’s Best Actor Julie Delpy, an awards contender for Fahrenheit. I mean, that’s pretty good.” Gotham Independent Film Awards was award. Jared Leto, his costar in a film that her part in “Before Midnight,” paid Kathryn Hahn, who was nominated pure indie. The prizes, now in their 23rd looks at the early years of the AIDS crisis, tribute to Richard Linklater, the filmmaker for her role in “Afternoon Delight,” is year, hold the distinction of being the first accepted the award on behalf of the actor, behind the trilogy that stars the actress heading to Tulum, Mexico, with her serious bling awards contenders pick up who couldn’t attend the ceremony. Leto and Ethan Hawke, which includes “Before husband and children. on their way to the big leagues, like the took the stage with an iPhone to his ear. Sunrise” and “Before Sunset.” “This is what I want for Christmas: a Golden Globes and the Academy Awards. “We have Mr. McConaughey on the “Richard, I think you got the best of me,” tequila flight and a bowl of chips,” she said. At this point in the race, Matthew phone right now,” Leto said, before a she said. “I could die right now. I could — KRISTI GARCED WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2013 11 WWD.COM Costume Drama FASHION SCOOPS “LOOK AT THAT no-nonsense strut,” STILL NUMBER ONE: Edward Lampert, Sears Palacio de Correos, a glassed-in annex Osman Yousefzada commented as Miuccia Holdings Corp.’s chairman and chief glued to City Hall and the Spanish Prada took the stage. Prada, decked executive officer, pared his stake in capital’s hot new party venue. Winners out in a sober top and skirt and a the company over the last were Givenchy creative delicate feather headdress, was few months and no longer FOR MORE director Riccardo Tisci (the collecting the inaugural award for controls the majority of its SCOOPS, SEE year’s best international International Designer of the Year shares, but the pruning job designer), Alvaro Castejón and at the British Fashion Awards on was relatively modest. In a WWD.com Arnaud Maillard, of the Madrid- Monday night in London. regulatory filing Tuesday, based brand Alvarno (best “They’re Prada feathers,” Prada Lampert and his various Spain designers) and Azzedine

said of the multicolored plumes she investment vehicles, Alaïa (lifetime achievement).

wore like a hair band. “No one had the including ESL Partners LP, ART Alaïa didn’t show but what is courage to wear them — except me,” were listed as owning 51.6 generally considered Madrid’s added the designer, who made a ﬂying million shares of Sears stock, best night out drew a bevy of visit to London to collect her prize. 48.4 percent outstanding. designers, models, socialites, Next to her was artist Francesco That’s down from the 58.9 actresses and one royal couple, Vezzoli, who is currently under million shares, or 55.4 Prince Nikolaos and wife Tatiana ﬁre from Italian authorities for percent, listed in March. of Greece, resplendent in black attempting to export bits of a The reduction was caused and white. Also on the guest deconsecrated Italian church for by distributions to ESL list: fashion TV presenter and

an art installation in New York. “I investors. — ARNOLD J. KARR MUSEUM OF © THE METROPOLITAN the evening’s host Nieves Álvarez am a very relaxed and happy man,” wearing a geometric printed

said the artist, a longtime favorite of LOOK AT MET: Those counting PHOTO gown by Emilio Pucci; Spanish Prada’s, declining to be drawn further down to next May’s “Charles actresses Verónica Echegui in on the controversy. James: Beyond Fashion” broad-banded, strapless Dior Prada and Vezzoli weren’t the exhibition at the Costume and Norma Ruíz in a floaty, only Italians in town: Donatella Versace Miuccia Institute will get their one-shoulder dress by Donna presented her former protégée Prada first preview today. The Karan Atelier; models Juncal Christopher Kane with the top award Metropolitan Museum of Rivero in a black second-skin — Women’s Wear Designer of the Art is unveiling the first gown by Armani and Ariadne Year — at the annual event, which James gown to be in the Artiles in Gucci; Pronovias this year was held at the London show — a 1946 velvet, satin The Charles James president and owner Alberto Coliseum with a crowd that included and faille evening dress that velvet, satin and faille Palatchi and wife Susana Gallardo, Gwyneth Paltrow, who presented an once belonged to style icon evening dress, 1946. and Cayetano Martínez de Irujo, award; Marc Jacobs, who presented Millicent Rogers. The evening son of the Duchess of Alba. In Kate Moss with a special prize for 25 dress is the centerpiece of an episode addition, the magazine was celebrating its years in the business; British First on the Met’s “82nd & Fifth” Web series. 50th anniversary. Lady Samantha Cameron; Rupert Everett; The segment, titled “Hipster,” features — BARBARA BARKER Christopher Raeburn; Jonathan Saunders; Jan Glier Reeder, who is curating the Stephen Jones; Sienna Miller, and Stella exhibition with Harold Koda, talking about Tennant. The indie rock band Daughter the gown. It goes live today at 82nd-and- performed. Guests were seated at fifth.metmuseum.org/hipster. cozy banquettes — like extras from — MARC KARIMZADEH “Cabaret” — and noshed on tapas and watched the awards as they drank A GOOD CAUSE: Valentino USA is again wine, Champagne and tequila. foregoing its holiday party to instead “Two-and-a-half decades ago, I was sponsor New Yorkers for Children’s “Wrap mesmerized by a portrait by Corinne to Rap” event. Just like last year, employees Day of the most perfectly imperfect of the fashion house’s U.S. arm will help beautiful girl I have ever seen,” Jacobs wrap more than 1,000 gifts for children in said of Moss. “She deﬁes convention, foster care. They will have a little help — and is the rarest of jewels.” supporters of the organization, including Moss’ day began with an Rachel Roy and Zac Posen — are expected appearance at the Bookmarc store in to join in at the packing party at The London to promote a line of T-shirts Ainsworth next Monday. — M.K. designed by Jacobs to mark the 60th anniversary of Playboy magazine. MADRID MOMENT: Spain’s prestigious In the evening, after the awards, fashion magazine Telva handed out Olga Ruiz Minguito, Riccardo Tisci and Moss and Jacobs continued the Kate Moss its annual awards Monday night at the Mariacarla Boscono. Playboy narrative at the magazine’s

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PHOTOS BY or call 800.289.0273 anniversary party at the Playboy Club “I came for Kate of course,” said in London. While Hugh Hefner was not Versace, who was guided by Moss in attendance, his son Cooper Hefner through the crowd while stopping to was in the mix of bunnies and fashion greet guests along the way. (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] types, who included Prada, Versace, — SAMANTHA CONTI Miller, Rita Ora, Kane and Henry Holland. AND LORELEI MARFIL WHERE TITANS OF INDUSTRY TALK wwd.com/summitsondemand Featuring videos from each event, Fairchild Summits On-Demand offers you the opportunity to watch as the titans of industry inform, inspire, and offer valuable insight for navigating the ever-changing business landscape.