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Downloadable Non- Ist Belber, with the first Collection Ex- “However, We Eventually Decided to Disclosure Agreements ADVERTISEMENT WWDTUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 MY AMERICAN DREAM NEW YORK - 625 MADISON AVENUE BEVERLY HILLS - 250 NORTH RODEO DRIVE MIAMI - AVENTURA MALL SHOP PLEIN.COM philippplein_WWD_cover_wrap.indd 1 10/24/14 9:21 AM MY AMERICAN DREAM NEW YORK - 625 MADISON AVENUE BEVERLY HILLS - 250 NORTH RODEO DRIVE MIAMI - AVENTURA MALL MY AMERICAN DREAM NEW YORK - 625 MADISON AVENUE BEVERLY HILLS - 250 NORTH RODEO DRIVE MIAMI - AVENTURA MALL SHOP PLEIN.COM philippplein_WWD_cover_wrap.indd 2 10/24/14 9:21 AM RETAILER TO OPEN STORE IN ABU DHABI IN 2018, ITS FIRST UNIT MACY’S HEADS OVERSEAS OUTSIDE THE U.S. PAGE 2 Karen Katz Trevor Edwards WWDTUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Josephrevolution Altuzarra 2014 WWD APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT Karis Durmer Ron Frasch NEW YORK — THE FASHION AND RETAIL LANDSCAPE IS CHANGING SO RAPIDLY THAT AT TIMES IT evolutionSEEMS EXECUTIVES NEVER HAVE A CHANCE TO CATCH THEIR BREATHS. BUT INDUSTRY LEADERS GATHERED AT THE PIERRE HOTEL HERE MONDAY DISCUSSED HOW TO COPE AND ADAPT — OR AT LEAST TRY TO — WITH THOSE CHANGES, INCLUDING THE BALANCE OF ART AND COMMERCE IN FASHION; THE MELDING OF E-COMMERCE AND BRICK-AND-MORTAR; THE CONTINUED EXPLOSION OF ACTIVEWEAR IN THE WOMEN’S SECTOR, AND SUCH NEW TECHNOLOGIES AS WEARABLES. FOR MORE, SEE PAGES 8 TO 14. Andy Dunn “There has to be a willingness to accept failure, Glen Senk and celebrate both small and large victories.” — Karen Katz “Starting your own “I think the trouble that we’re having in the industry is self-infl icted. Many of us are Steve Holmes company and Richard Baker understanding how not keeping up with the customer.” you survive in this — Glen Senk environment and thrive demands an understanding “We believe the most powerful formula of both the art and the in retail today is dominance in both Francis Bitonti commerce of channels, online and in-store, in Jennifer Hyman the company.” businesses that work together seamlessly.” — Joseph Altuzarra — Richard Baker “We are in the fi rst pitch of the fi rst inning in terms of vertical brand-building.” — Andy Dunn Satya Twena Qing Wu “We’re taking data and iterating it and not being afraid of what the consequence will be.” — Jennifer Hyman PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AND GEORGE CHINSEE Suzanne Lee Sarah Quinlan Yancey Strickler Maria Pinto 2 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 WWD.COM Macy’s to Open in Abu Dhabi THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD By DAVID MOIN A rendering of Macy’s on Al Maryah Island in Abu Dhabi. MACY’S, a holdout on the international scene, has Lauren Brown is the finally decided to open an overseas store, which subject of WWD’s will be in Abu Dhabi, WWD has learned. Model Call. For more, Macy’s will open a 205,000-square-foot, four-level see WWD.com. store at Al Maryah Central, described as a “super- regional shopping destination” under development on Al Maryah Island in Abu Dhabi. A 230,000-square-foot Bloomingdale’s will also open in Al Maryah Central, marking that retailer’s second overseas store. The first opened in Dubai in 2010. Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s, both divisions of MODELS the $28 billion Macy’s Inc., plan to open their Abu Dhabi locations in 2018. They will be operated TRUMP under license by Al Tayer Group, which already op- OF erates the licensed Bloomingdale’s store in Dubai. Macy’s international plans confirm a WWD report earlier this year that Macy’s and COURTESY Bloomingdale’s were headed to Abu Dhabi. PHOTO Further international expansion for Macy’s seems likely, in light of recent reports on executives visiting the Middle East and China for partners and Gucci chief executive officer Patrizio di Marco said the Italian real estate opportunities. “Whether there will be luxury giant is on the right track in terms of its repositioning additional stores depends on whether we have suc- efforts. PAGE 4 cess here in Abu Dhabi. Based on what we know, in Abu Dhabi was also based on Bloomingdale’s we feel confident,” Terry Lundgren, the chairman track record in Dubai. That store is among the top Pitti Uomo continues its tradition of mixing emerging and chief executive’’ officer of Macy’s Inc. told WWD. five most productive stores in the Bloomingdale’s PAGE 4 “We are continuing to study various internation- chain, with only the 59th Street flagship; Aventura, designers with established brands. al markets and to better understand how customers Fla.; South Coast Plaza, Calif., and San Francisco worldwide shop in stores, online and via mobile,” stores more productive. Paul Poiret is poised to be the next marquee brand revival with Lundgren added. “While macys.com and blooming- Macy’s online does a minimal volume overseas, the owner of the Poiret trademarks planning to sell them via an dales.com have been selling online in about 100 na- impacted by duties and taxes that are tacked on. online auction process. PAGE 6 tions since 2011, we are especially interested in the Ye t Lundgren said, “The Web site is very valuable omnichannel dynamics of worldwide markets, and for our international tourist business,” since their VF Corp. outlined goals and addressed challenges in its the role that physical stores play in that equation.” online visits inform their visits to the stores in the global supply chain in the launch of its first sustainability and Lundgren wouldn’t comment on plans for China, U.S. Macy’s also wholesales its private brands to responsibility report and platform Monday. PAGE 7 which he has visited several times to consider put- certain retailers, including some overseas. ting up a Macy’s store, but he did discuss Canada, While many U.S. retailers have opened stores St. John Knits said Monday that Bernd Beetz will become which he discounted as a destination. “We conclud- in many countries, Macy’s is a Johnny-come-lately, interim chief executive officer upon the departure of current ed it wasn’t the right strategy,” in large part due to though it’s more difficult for a department store ceo Geoffroy van Raemdonck. PAGE 16 the relative small population there and few cities to expand internationally than it is for specialty stores, considering the real estate requirements Armand Hadida, founder of L’Eclaireur, a French chain of and complexity of the business model. specialty stores, is setting up his first U.S. outpost in “If you are going to go international, you need to We are especially March. PAGE 16 be sure you have the right partner. I have become very comfortable with Al Tayer,” Lundgren said. interested in the “They are excellent partners. It doesn’t mean we Bottega Veneta has opened a 2,500-square-foot store at will have this [licensing] model elsewhere should 310 Boylston Street in The Heritage on the Garden in Boston’s PAGE 16 omnichannel dynamics we choose to open in other countries.” It could go historic Back Bay district. either way, Lundgren suggested. of worldwide markets. He said Macy’s will assist Al Tayer in what to buy for The grass is definitely not greener on Manhattan’s Avenue B the store and how to execute the merchandising, and than it is in Tudor City, but that is where Michael George has that it is too early to discuss what goods will be sold, planted its new shop. PAGE 18 — TERRY LUNDGREN, MACY’S INC. other than fashion and home goods. It’s possible some locally relevant product, not sold at Macy’s in the U.S., Hearst Magazines International is shifting its gaze to digital, that would work for Macy’s. “It would just be more gets sold in Abu Dhabi. Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s will adding three new roles to the business side. PAGE 19 of a market share game as opposed to creating new be the sole anchor tenants in the mall. opportunities,” Lundgren said. Other retailers, Al Tayer Group, based in Dubai, is involved in Restructuring at Condé Nast continues, with the company including Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom, are several sectors, including automotive, contracting, homing in on its digital and media teams. PAGE 19 flocking to Canada. distribution, retail and services, in 12 countries. In Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Central is being devel- The group represents more than 600 brands, includ- Sidney Toledano has been elected to the board of trustees of oped by Gulf Related, a venture between Related ing Ferrari, Ford, Land Rover, Jaguar, Alexander the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation. PAGE 19 Cos. and Gulf Capital. The 3.1-million-square-foot McQueen, Boucheron, Bottega Veneta, Coach, mixed-use development will include retail, cafés Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Giorgio Armani and restaurants, entertainment options, a cinema, and Jimmy Choo. ON WWD.COM health club, luxury hotel and residential towers, Al Tayer is also responsible for opening and with about 1.8 million square feet for retail, food operating the largest Harvey Nichols outside the MODEL CALL: Australian model Lauren Brown, who had her and beverage. Construction is scheduled to com- U.K. as well as the first Bloomingdale’s stores out- breakout runway season in February and March of 2010, is mence before yearend, with an opening’’ date set side the U.S. The group’s portfolio includes Gap, poised to make a comeback. For more, see WWD.com. for March 2018. Last year, the 350,000-square-foot Banana Republic and Crate and Barrel, and ven- Galleria waterfront phase of the mixed-use com- tures with Bulgari, Gucci and Prada.
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