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MY AMERICAN DREAM

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philippplein_WWD_cover_wrap.indd 2 10/24/14 9:21 AM RETAILER TO OPEN STORE IN ABU DHABI IN 2018, ITS FIRST UNIT MACY’S HEADS OVERSEAS OUTSIDE THE U.S. PAGE 2

Karen Katz Trevor Edwards

WWDTUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Josephrevolution Altuzarra 2014 WWD APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT Karis Durmer

Ron Frasch NEW YORK — THE FASHION AND RETAIL LANDSCAPE IS CHANGING SO RAPIDLY THAT AT TIMES IT evolutionSEEMS EXECUTIVES NEVER HAVE A CHANCE TO CATCH THEIR BREATHS. BUT INDUSTRY LEADERS GATHERED AT THE PIERRE HOTEL HERE MONDAY DISCUSSED HOW TO COPE AND ADAPT — OR AT LEAST TRY TO — WITH THOSE CHANGES, INCLUDING THE BALANCE OF ART AND COMMERCE IN FASHION; THE MELDING OF E-COMMERCE AND BRICK-AND-MORTAR; THE CONTINUED EXPLOSION OF ACTIVEWEAR IN THE WOMEN’S SECTOR, AND SUCH NEW TECHNOLOGIES AS WEARABLES. FOR MORE, SEE PAGES 8 TO 14.

Andy Dunn “There has to be a willingness to accept failure, Glen Senk and celebrate both small and large victories.” — Karen Katz

“Starting your own “I think the trouble that we’re having in the industry is self-infl icted. Many of us are Steve Holmes company and Richard Baker understanding how not keeping up with the customer.” you survive in this — Glen Senk environment and thrive demands an understanding “We believe the most powerful formula of both the art and the in retail today is dominance in both

Francis Bitonti commerce of channels, online and in-store, in Jennifer Hyman the company.” businesses that work together seamlessly.” — Joseph Altuzarra — Richard Baker

“We are in the fi rst pitch of the fi rst inning in terms of vertical brand-building.” — Andy Dunn Satya Twena Qing Wu “We’re taking data and iterating it and not being afraid of what the consequence will be.”

— Jennifer Hyman PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AND GEORGE CHINSEE Suzanne Lee Sarah Quinlan Yancey Strickler Maria Pinto 2 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 WWD.COM Macy’s to Open in Abu Dhabi THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD By DAVID MOIN A rendering of Macy’s on Al Maryah Island in Abu Dhabi. MACY’S, a holdout on the international scene, has Lauren Brown is the finally decided to open an overseas store, which subject of WWD’s will be in Abu Dhabi, WWD has learned. Model Call. For more, Macy’s will open a 205,000-square-foot, four-level see WWD.com. store at Al Maryah Central, described as a “super- regional shopping destination” under development on Al Maryah Island in Abu Dhabi. A 230,000-square-foot Bloomingdale’s will also open in Al Maryah Central, marking that retailer’s second overseas store. The first opened in Dubai in 2010.

Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s, both divisions of MODELS the $28 billion Macy’s Inc., plan to open their Abu

Dhabi locations in 2018. They will be operated TRUMP

under license by Al Tayer Group, which already op- OF

erates the licensed Bloomingdale’s store in Dubai. Macy’s international plans confirm a WWD report earlier this year that Macy’s and COURTESY Bloomingdale’s were headed to Abu Dhabi. PHOTO Further international expansion for Macy’s

seems likely, in light of recent reports on executives visiting the Middle East and China for partners and Gucci chief executive officer Patrizio di Marco said the Italian real estate opportunities. “Whether there will be luxury giant is on the right track in terms of its repositioning additional stores depends on whether we have suc- efforts. PAGE 4 cess here in Abu Dhabi. Based on what we know, in Abu Dhabi was also based on Bloomingdale’s

we feel confident,” Terry Lundgren, the chairman track record in Dubai. That store is among the top Pitti Uomo continues its tradition of mixing emerging and chief executive’’ officer of Macy’s Inc. told WWD. five most productive stores in the Bloomingdale’s PAGE 4 “We are continuing to study various internation- chain, with only the 59th Street flagship; Aventura, designers with established brands. al markets and to better understand how customers Fla.; South Coast Plaza, Calif., and San Francisco worldwide shop in stores, online and via mobile,” stores more productive. Paul Poiret is poised to be the next marquee brand revival with Lundgren added. “While macys.com and blooming- Macy’s online does a minimal volume overseas, the owner of the Poiret trademarks planning to sell them via an dales.com have been selling online in about 100 na- impacted by duties and taxes that are tacked on. online auction process. PAGE 6 tions since 2011, we are especially interested in the Ye t Lundgren said, “The Web site is very valuable omnichannel dynamics of worldwide markets, and for our international tourist business,” since their VF Corp. outlined goals and addressed challenges in its the role that physical stores play in that equation.” online visits inform their visits to the stores in the global supply chain in the launch of its first sustainability and Lundgren wouldn’t comment on plans for China, U.S. Macy’s also wholesales its private brands to responsibility report and platform Monday. PAGE 7 which he has visited several times to consider put- certain retailers, including some overseas. ting up a Macy’s store, but he did discuss Canada, While many U.S. retailers have opened stores St. John Knits said Monday that Bernd Beetz will become which he discounted as a destination. “We conclud- in many countries, Macy’s is a Johnny-come-lately, interim chief executive officer upon the departure of current ed it wasn’t the right strategy,” in large part due to though it’s more difficult for a department store ceo Geoffroy van Raemdonck. PAGE 16 the relative small population there and few cities to expand internationally than it is for specialty stores, considering the real estate requirements Armand Hadida, founder of L’Eclaireur, a French chain of and complexity of the business model. specialty stores, is setting up his first U.S. outpost in “If you are going to go international, you need to We are especially March. PAGE 16 be sure you have the right partner. I have become very comfortable with Al Tayer,” Lundgren said. interested in the “They are excellent partners. It doesn’t mean we Bottega Veneta has opened a 2,500-square-foot store at will have this [licensing] model elsewhere should 310 Boylston Street in The Heritage on the Garden in Boston’s PAGE 16 omnichannel dynamics we choose to open in other countries.” It could go historic Back Bay district. either way, Lundgren suggested. of worldwide markets. He said Macy’s will assist Al Tayer in what to buy for The grass is definitely not greener on Manhattan’s Avenue B the store and how to execute the merchandising, and than it is in Tudor City, but that is where Michael George has that it is too early to discuss what goods will be sold, planted its new shop. PAGE 18 — TERRY LUNDGREN, MACY’S INC. other than fashion and home goods. It’s possible some locally relevant product, not sold at Macy’s in the U.S., Hearst Magazines International is shifting its gaze to digital, that would work for Macy’s. “It would just be more gets sold in Abu Dhabi. Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s will adding three new roles to the business side. PAGE 19 of a market share game as opposed to creating new be the sole anchor tenants in the mall. opportunities,” Lundgren said. Other retailers, Al Tayer Group, based in Dubai, is involved in Restructuring at Condé Nast continues, with the company including Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom, are several sectors, including automotive, contracting, homing in on its digital and media teams. PAGE 19 flocking to Canada. distribution, retail and services, in 12 countries. In Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Central is being devel- The group represents more than 600 brands, includ- Sidney Toledano has been elected to the board of trustees of oped by Gulf Related, a venture between Related ing Ferrari, Ford, Land Rover, Jaguar, Alexander the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation. PAGE 19 Cos. and Gulf Capital. The 3.1-million-square-foot McQueen, Boucheron, Bottega Veneta, Coach, mixed-use development will include retail, cafés Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Giorgio Armani and restaurants, entertainment options, a cinema, and Jimmy Choo. ON WWD.COM health club, luxury hotel and residential towers, Al Tayer is also responsible for opening and with about 1.8 million square feet for retail, food operating the largest Harvey Nichols outside the MODEL CALL: Australian model Lauren Brown, who had her and beverage. Construction is scheduled to com- U.K. as well as the first Bloomingdale’s stores out- breakout runway season in February and March of 2010, is mence before yearend, with an opening’’ date set side the U.S. The group’s portfolio includes Gap, poised to make a comeback. For more, see WWD.com. for March 2018. Last year, the 350,000-square-foot Banana Republic and Crate and Barrel, and ven- Galleria waterfront phase of the mixed-use com- tures with Bulgari, Gucci and Prada. plex, which houses luxury retail and restaurants, Mortimer Singer, ceo of Marvin Traub Associates, opened. It’s all part of Abu Dhabi’s sweeping mas- acted as an adviser to Al Tayer Group and Gulf FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA ter plan, calling for new infrastructure, an air- Related. “The UAE has become one of the main @ WWD.com/social port, cultural, medical and university facilities, focal points of global retailing. There are two bil- including a Cleveland Clinic, which will be fully lion people within a six-hour plane ride of the UAE. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS opened in the spring, and a campus for New York The potential for business has been underestimat- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. University, which has partially opened. ed. The Dubai Mall does about $1,000 a foot across WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “Abu Dhabi historically has been a business 5 million square feet. It’s massive business. Stores VOLUME 208, NO. 88. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays center. It’s evolving into a cultural center as well, that open in the UAE tend to be within the highest and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. and we’re complimenting with a mixed-use proj- performers worldwide; right up there with stores in PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, ect,” said Ken Himmel, comanaging partner of New York, Hong Kong and London,” he said. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, Gulf Related and president and ceo of the parent Said Khalid Al Tayer, ceo of retail for the Al Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write Related Urban. Tayer Group: “Al Maryah Central provides an ideal to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. Other retailers coming into the project include home for these landmark introductions, forming Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us Zara, H&M and Apple, among other international one of many significant developments under way that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. brands, Himmel said. in Abu Dhabi over the coming years, which serve If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within “I just think Abu Dhabi is booming,” Lundgren to strengthen its position as a cultural, commercial four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, said, noting that the hospital, university and mu- and tourism leader.” 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media, 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, seum facilities are springing up close to the mixed- Dr. Karim El Solh, ceo of Gulf Capital and co- please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to used development Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s are managing partner of Gulf Related, commented, other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, entering. “There is an already built-in consumer,” “Located at the center of Al Maryah Island, and act- UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND TRANSPARENCIES), Lundgren said. “We are going into the center of Abu ing as a meeting point for old and new Abu Dhabi, OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY Dhabi, which has been developed.” Al Maryah Central will be naturally integrated into WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE The decision to open Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s the heart of the community.” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

4 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 WWD.COM Di Marco’s Gucci ‘A Work in Progress’

Gucci’s own stores were in line with the be an established name but it can also be portation links and the ups and downs By AMANDA KAISER second quarter. Di Marco said Gucci’s top a weak point in certain circumstances,” he of neighborhoods and real estate devel- line suffered on a contraction of its whole- said, adding that the competitiveness of opments rather than think about store TOKYO — Despite a disappointing set of sale business as the company shutters markets will only increase as they mature. counts in sheer numeric terms. third-quarter sales figures, Gucci chief wholesale accounts and shifts its empha- “The whole world, sooner or later, “Now it has become a trend to say that executive officer Patrizio di Marco main- sis to direct retailing. Gucci does about 80 will be what we call a mature market. if you have 30 stores, it’s the right num- tains that the Italian luxury giant is on Mature, but the size of these pies are ber. If you have 60, it’s the wrong num-

the right track in terms of its reposition- enormous, so you have to be better than ber…so by the same token one has to say ing efforts and is working to boost its the others,” he said. why are there brands like us and [Louis] competitive edge over rivals, both estab- One market where di Marco said Gucci Vuitton and Chanel that have more than lished and emerging. needs to step up its efforts in reaching 100 sales points in America?” he said. “Gucci is still a work in progress,” customers is in China, where it is one of “Am I wrong or is China the first country the executive said in an interview here the biggest luxury players with 66 stores at in the world in terms of GDP [growth]?”

as part of his trip to Japan to celebrate the end of last year. Gucci’s third-quarter Gucci has also seen some manage- the 50th anniversary of the Italian’s com- sales in Asia Pacific fell 5 percent but dis- rial changes in China over the past cou- pany’s business in the country. Five years ruptions of the Hong Kong protests also ple years. On Thursday, it revealed that into his tenure at Gucci’s helm, di Marco played a role in the brand’s performance. former Gucci Taiwan general manager stressed the importance of interpreting “If it’s difficult to make a change in Merinda Yeung is taking over as presi- the company’s third-quarter sales drop mind-set, if it’s difficult to talk about dent of Greater China. She succeeds for- within a difficult macroeconomic con- working with clients,’’ if it’s difficult to re- mer Estée Lauder executive Carol Shen, text that has hit the entire luxury goods ally implement the so-called art of sell- who left earlier this year after working in industry and said that skeptics need to ing in mature market, a more-evolved that role for less than 18 months. understand that the company’s efforts to market, think about how difficult this can Di Marco said these personnel chang- shift the focus of its more than $4 billion- be in a market like China,” he said. es were not at the root of Gucci’s China a-year business from entry-level logo Di Marco said the extremely high turn- problems but they also did not help the products to higher-end goods takes time. over rate for store staff in China is a com- situation. He said he is confident about Citing a laundry list of volatile situ- plicating matter. Skilled sales people are Yeung, whose résumé includes experi- ations around the world, including the in such high demand that it’s common for ence at both Chanel and Louis Vuitton. ongoing pro-democracy protests in Hong luxury goods companies to poach one an- Her first priorities are to improve sales Kong, the threat of terrorist group ISIS, other’s staff. The executive said a brand is techniques, liaising with clients and in- the Ukrainian crisis and China’s eco- YUKIE MIYAZAKI lucky if its annual staff turnover is between vesting in staff training, di Marco said. nomic slowdown, di Marco said it’s a very 10 and 15 percent each year but that still “Can she turn things around overnight?

challenging time to do business. PHOTO BY means training 150 to 200 people each year. If there is a miracle, yes…[but] I generally “We continue to do the things in the give people time, the right amount of time way we think they need to be done, but percent of its business through its network to be able to do their job,” he said. we are very much looking out the win- of directly operated stores with wholesale Relatively speaking, Japan is faring dow to see what happens,” he said, de- accounting for the remaining 20 percent, Life is made up of ups better for Gucci. Third-quarter sales at clining to give a fourth-quarter forecast a spokesman said. At the end of 2013, Gucci’s directly operated stores in Japan or estimate of when Gucci’s revenue will Gucci’s retail network totaled 474 units. and downs. If the rose 7 percent. While April’s sales-tax resume a growth trajectory. “The world Direct stores accounted for just more than hike did impact sales, di Marco said Gucci is this way. Life is made up of ups and 70 percent of the business in 2009. analysts would also fared much better than its competitors. He downs. If the analysts would also under- Meanwhile, di Marco said it takes said he’s still unsure how a second tax in- stand this as well, it would be better. But time for consumer mind-sets to adjust to crease — a jump from 8 percent to 10 per- they don’t understand. Their ups and Gucci’s shift to higher-end, more expen- understand this as cent — planned for next year will play out. downs are three months, 90 days.” sive products and for store sales staff to “It’s a very psychological discussion. Di Marco said it’s “debatable” wheth- push higher-ticket items. well, it would be There you need to be good at getting into er Gucci’s repositioning is taking longer “The process can’t happen overnight,” the minds of consumers and nobody is. than originally anticipated given the he said, describing it as a “titanic” un- better.…Their ups It could be that the second hike is less shifting macroeconomic and geopolitical dertaking for a brand of Gucci’s size. dramatic than the first,” he said. “Maybe landscape over the past few years. Frida Giannini, Gucci’s creative direc- with the second, people are more used to “Going back in time…Would I have tor and di Marco’s partner in life, made a and downs are three it. I don’t know. Maybe not.” liked to have done more [by now]? Yes, similar comment about the long-term na- One thing di Marco and Giannini seem but because I always want to do more….I ture of the repositioning process but she months, 90 days. to be getting used to are recurring ru- would have liked for things to have gone is encouraged by customer reception of mors that the duo might be leaving Gucci. faster because that is the way I am. But her collections. She said her fall offering — PATRIZIO DI MARCO Both of them reiterated their denials that honestly to say that it is has taken more has seen “excellent” results and she has they plan to go anywhere soon — at least time than we imagined, no,” he said. received similarly positive feedback on of their own volition. Gucci’s third-quarter sales declined her cruise collection so far. “Just considering this fact alone, inevita- “Honestly, I don’t know what else to 1.6 percent to 851.0 million euros, its par- “This process is very slow…losing the bly you understand the reason we are hav- say in that it’s a rumor that started a ent company Kering said Thursday. That customers you had before, finding other ing…difficulties in China,” di Marco said. while ago. Honestly, what is the reason represents an improvement over the first ones. Overall these are undertakings that Di Marco brushed aside suggestions why? Because we have seen a slowdown half of the year, when sales slid 3.2 per- obviously can take time,” Giannini said. that Gucci might be overexposed in in sales?” he said. “On the basis of just cent in the first quarter and 5.7 percent Di Marco said Gucci is facing an in- China with too many stores. He said the [financial results] there are companies in the second quarter. creasingly competitive environment as brand has to keep up with the country’s that should be changing [management] Kering said third-quarter sales at new brands emerge. “It’s fundamental to fast-changing dynamics in’’ terms of trans- every three minutes.” Marni Men’s Returns to Runway at Pitti Uomo experimentation — elements with the Florentine fair follow- product define each other. By PAULINA SZMYDKE which coincide with my work ing long negotiations between We know that there will with the men’s wear collection,” the British Fashion Council and be some beautiful chem- PARIS — Pitti Uomo continues its Castiglioni told WWD, citing the Pitti Immagine, which last sea- istry when they meet tradition of mixing emerging de- interpretation of “true men’s son chartered an airplane to a city like Florence,” signers with established brands. wear staples through function- help speed up the arrival of in- said Lapo Cianchi, the Marni will be the guest men’s ality and classicism, combined ternational buyers attending the fair’s events manager. wear brand at the next edition with contrasting elements and London shows. Among the fair’s of the international men’s wear unexpected details,” as her goal. Also joining the trade show’s other happenings trade show slated for Jan. 13 to Raffaello Napoleone, roster is Hood by Air, arguably will be a live perfor- Hood by Air 16 in Florence. chief executive officer of Pitti the most closely watched street mance starring Tilda will show Having recently celebrated Immagine, called Marni “one of label of the moment. The New Swinton, written and for the first its 20th anniversary, Marni, the undisputed leaders on the York-based brand designed directed by Olivier time at helmed by Consuelo Castiglioni, international fashion scene. by Shayne Oliver is to pro- Saillard. Following “The Pitti. is to present an exclusive fash- “We have always admired the duce “a special event” at Pitti Impossible Wardrobe” ion show at the bellwether fair creativity, elegance and noncon- Immagine, the organizers said (2012) and “Eternity showcasing its men’s looks for formity that distinguish its style. on Monday. Dress” (2013), the actress

fall 2015. In Florence, men’s clothing will It is not yet known whether the and the director of Paris’ It will be its first men’s show be at the fulcrum of the proj- event will feature men’s or wom- Palais Galliera are to stage ▼ Marni will present an since 2009, when the format was ect,” he said. en’s fashion, or possibly both. “Cloakroom,” their third exclusive show at the trade fair. JOHN AQUINO changed to a presentation. Pitti Uomo has been defend- “Multidisciplinary research, theatrical piece inspired Collection re-sees will be ing its territory against London roots firmly anchored in black by the world of fashion. It tions as guests during the held in Milan following the Collections: Men, which has culture, and the unexpected as- is scheduled to premier be- trade show’s four-day run

show in Florence. been extended from a three- pects of certain solutions are all tween Nov. 22 and 29 in Paris. included Z Zegna, Kenzo, AIR PHOTO BY “Pitti Uomo has always cel- day to a four-day event for reflected in their fashion shows Brands that previously Kolor, Diesel Black Gold

ebrated the avant-garde and January, but will not overlap where performance, music and showcased their collec- and Valentino. HOOD BY

6 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 Poiret Trademarks Up for Auction Online brands, but Paul Poiret is so well-known al plan for Poiret based on his experi- By MILES SOCHA it could attract lesser-known investors ence relaunching Vionnet, and even had out of the blue, including from developing a designer in mind. PARIS — Paul Poiret is poised to be the markets,” de Lummen told WWD. “Personally, my dream would have next marquee brand revival. Luvanis, registered in Luxembourg, been for John Galliano to be the de- And in a 21st-century twist on luxury holds a cache of historic names includ- signer,” he said, referring to the British M&A, the current owner of the Poiret ing Mainbocher, storied footwear brand fashion maverick who recently joined trademarks plans to sell them via an on- Herbert Levine and 19th-century trunk Maison Martin Margiela as creative di- line auction process that kicks off today. maker Au Départ. De Lummen has also rector after sitting on the sidelines for The development propels an under-the- been closely involved in the revival of three years following his ouster from radar process from lobby bars and board- Philadelphia trunk and bag special- Dior and his signature fashion house. rooms to the realm of downloadable non- ist Belber, with the first collection ex- “However, we eventually decided to disclosure agreements. pected imminently. He noted he is in limit our role in this preliminary state While online auctions of intellectual advanced talks to relaunch Levine with of the revival and to now identify the property assets are routine, “the unusual an Italian producer and a Middle East right partner or investor who will lead side here is that the process is meant to investment fund. the relaunch,” he said. allow the successful bidder to relaunch and Although Poiret products have been Mallevays said potential bidders for develop the brand as a business. This is not absent from the market for more than 80 Poiret must come forward and be vet- for collectors,” said Pierre Mallevays, man- years, de Lummen is convinced it has the le- ted by Nov. 14. Approved bidders are aging director of London-based Savigny gitimacy to become a global lifestyle brand. given a password allowing them access Partners, the boutique M&A firm spear- He called Poiret’s aesthetic a “per- to an “online data room” containing heading the process. vasive influence in fashion” and the de- details about the trademarks and ar- Calling Poiret a “very special asset” signer a figure who was larger-than-life chive materials. bound to attract interest from a wide spec- and with many artistic, business and so- The deadline for initial bids is Nov. trum of potential bidders, Mallevays said the cial pursuits. 28, with a transaction expected to close online approach “would give everyone poten- An illustration “In terms of notoriety, today’s clos- before the end of 2014. tially interested the chance to participate.” of Paul Poiret by est equivalent to Paul Poiret would be Normally, the seller of a brand identifies Adrien Barrère. Karl Lagerfeld,” de Lummen said. “Paul the likely pool of buyers — typically those Poiret is much more than a style or a with the structure and synergies to properly couture label. He established lifestyle deploy such a brand — and contacts them entrepreneur Arnaud de Lummen, who branding and lived it fully himself.” “in a more corporate manner,” Mallevays al- has carved out a business awakening dor- Dubbed the “King of Fashion” be- lowed. Here, almost anyone with the means mant brands. He reintroduced Vionnet tween 1904 and 1924, the French design- can join and “very little due diligence will ready-to-wear in 2006, later off-loading the er was known for embracing Orientalism be required so that bidders will be in a posi- trademarks, and famously sold Moynat, a and bringing strident color, harem pants, tion to offer binding bids toward the end of prestigious 19th-century trunk maker, to kimono coats and hobble skirts into fash- the process and close the deal.” Groupe Arnault, which recently unveiled ion. Son of a Parisian cloth merchant, he He declined to predict how much the brand a product collaboration with “Happy” sold sketches to couturiers and started might fetch, but sources estimated it could singer Pharrell Williams. his career at Doucet and Worth before attract bids in the midsingle-digit millions. “In my experience, sleeping beauties launching his own house. Poiret now belongs to Luvanis SA, a usually appeal to luxury leaders or entre- After the World War I, he refused to company under the stewardship of French preneurs who have experience in managing change his exotic approach and faded from the fashion scene. He died in 1944 after years of poverty and illness. Ye t his oeuvre has a following among fashion cognoscenti. Azzedine Alaïa organized a retrospective and auc- tion in Paris in 2005, and The Costume A Poiret illusration by Georges Lepape.

An outright sale is the most likely Paul outcome, according to Mallevays. But Poiret given that de Lummen’s ultimate goal is a successful relaunch, he “may very well consider other proposals including joint ventures or offers to license the brand with an option to purchase.” He noted that Luvanis has set a re- serve price and “will happily keep Poiret if it is not met.” Once initial bids are received, the process moves offline, so it’s not an au- tomated auction typical on sites like eBay, Mallevays said. Still, he said very little due diligence would be required since de Lummen has spent years and considerable in- vestment to ensure the brand is fully protected, with no risk of third parties seeking to register competing rights. Asked if online M&A could become more common, Mallevays said, “it can only really be applied if none or very little due diligence is required, that is, for IP assets such as trademarks as op- posed to ongoing, trading businesses.” Like many designers, Poiret lost the Institute at The Metropolitan Museum rights to his name in 1924 when he sold of Art mounted an exhibition in 2007, his fashion house to investors, only to tracing the importance of Poiret’s wife find himself pushed out five years later. and coconspirator Denise during the de- The house closed in 1930, with the name signer’s creative peak in the 1910s. resurfacing briefly when Printemps and De Lummen describes his quest to Liberty commissioned special collec- acquire the trademark “a real head- tions in 1932 and 1933, de Lummen said. ache” and something of a “Mexican While some might argue reviving her- standoff ” as owners were scattered in itage names is risky, de Lummen is con- many countries, some with overlapping vinced that luxury brands need patrimo- rights, and none initially willing to sell. ny and a compelling brand narrative to He made a breakthrough in Japan, make it in a crowded marketplace. acquiring the rights there, and then pre- “Poiret is celebrated everywhere as vailed in other regions via a mix of acqui- the first true superstar fashion designer,” sitions, settlements and trademark pro- he said, pointing to frequent Poiret men- cedures that wound up earlier this year. tions in fashion magazines, art books, Assets for sale include domain names, major exhibitions and even digital ar- archive catalogs, memoirs, monographs, chives, which are harnessing the power illustrations and other memorabilia, but of the Internet to popularize historic no vintage garments. designers. “The fashion world is getting De Lummen noted he crafted a reviv- more and more addicted to its own past.” WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 7 WWD.COM VF Sustainability Report Details Plan of Action 1,240 garment workers. The com- 98 percent of VF’s primary en- project dubbed Chem-IQ gram assists VF’s pool of for- By KRISTI ELLIS pany has invested $17 million ergy sources come from fossil launched in 2013 in partner- eign textile contractors in elim- toward the health and safety of fuels and the firm spends $125 ship with University of Leeds inating the worst chemicals WASHINGTON — VF Corp. out- Bangladesh workers through million annually on energy, fuel in England and University of from the production processes, lined ambitious goals and ad- factory upgrades and qualified and business travel worldwide. Massachusetts Lowell in the using the Restricted Substances dressed significant challenges supplier loans to provide finan- The company said it will pursue List as its base. The program in its global supply chain in the cial support for workers impact- strategies to reduce its carbon was rolled out at select facto- launch of its first sustainability ed by factory inspections. footprint, including reducing ries in Turkey, Mexico and Los and responsibility report and “We are incredibly dedi- greenhouse gas emissions by 5 Angeles in 2013 and expanded platform on Monday. cated to ensuring that workers percent by the end of next year to all factory locations in China The report and platform on in Bangladesh [and throughout from a 2009 baseline — a reduc- this year. its corporate Web site estab- the supply chain] have a safe tion equivalent to preventing 1,848 “So far, we have screened lishes a single, comprehensive working environment,” Letitia 1.7 million gallons of gasoline NUMBER OF VF-AUTHORIZED more than 1,000 chemicals from source on VF’s companywide Webster, senior director of glob- combustion. FACTORIES AUDITED LAST YEAR. 102 factories and successfully efforts to reduce its carbon foot- al corporate sustainability, said “This is despite anticipated removed 68 tons of non-pre- print and environmental impact, in an interview. “ Yo u see our revenue growth of 40 percent ferred chemicals from our sup- and improve and strengthen work across many countries ded- in the same time period and the U.S. with the backing of the ply chain,” the report said. workers’ rights and conditions icated to ensuring workers have addition of approximately 400 Natural Resources Defense VF said it expects to have in its massive global supply safe workplaces where they are more owned facilities,” VF said. Council Modern Testing Chem-IQ fully in place at all of chain. Displayed prominently respected and treated fairly.” Under the sustainability Services, a global network of its tier-one factories, globally, by on VF’s homepage, the initiative On the sustainability front, pillar, VF touted a new pilot chemical laboratories. The pro- the end of 2015. encompasses a broad set of VF’s programs and goals, from audit- ing more than 1,800 foreign fac- tories in 60 countries to reduc- ing its greenhouse gas emissions by 5 percent by the end of 2015 and helping 4,000 cotton farmers produce 1 million metric tons of sustainable cotton through the Better Cotton Initiative. “VF’s first sustainability and responsibility report highlights the work we are doing across our business platforms and brands to responsibly manage our business,” Eric Wiseman, VF’s chairman, president and chief executive officer, wrote Creating opportunities. Delivering results. in a letter released with the re- port. “This includes our careful use of resources such as ener- gy, materials and water. It also includes some of the ground- breaking initiatives our brands are leading in sustainable prod- uct development — work that is shaping the future of the appar- has acquired has acquired has acquired has acquired has made el and footwear industry.” a minority interest in an investment in Among the challenges the company addresses in this new platform, which aligns all its initiatives across brands, is im- proving working conditions and Ohana & Co. advised Kose Ohana & Co. advised AmorePacific Ohana & Co. advised Assouline Ohana & Co. advised France Croco Ohana & Co. advised J. Mendel workers’ rights in its vast supply chain. VF has 20,000 employees in 32 owned-manufacturing fa- cilities, representing 30 percent of its production, around the globe, and monitors and audits has acquired working conditions at all facto- has acquired has acquired has sold its interest in ries where its brands and licens- the fragrance business of ees source production. Strategic review The company said it conduct- ed 1,848 audits of VF-authorized Children Worldwide Fashion factories last year. The company (Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Chloé) said it refused to do business with 13 percent of existing or Ohana & Co. advised Van de Velde Ohana & Co. advised Inter Parfums Ohana & Co. advised Lanvin Ohana & Co. advised Diptyque Ohana & Co. advised Sun City proposed factories that were not able to meet their initial cor- rective action plans or meet its basic requirements. More than 1,800 suppliers were accepted Established in 1994, Ohana & Co. has accompanied its clients or classified as “developmental.” from the US, China, Korea, Japan, France, Italy, Germany and many more countries, Among the negative findings were 3 percent of factories that in their successful M&A transactions in the luxury and beauty industries. were noncompliant based on ha- rassment and discrimination, 3 percent failed for issues related to forced labor, 2.5 percent failed for issues related to “juvenile” labor and 1 percent were non- compliant for failing to uphold freedom of association and col- lective bargaining rights. VF also reported one death of a worker as a result of chemical exposure combined with heat exhaustion, EW YORK - LOS ANGELES stating that the worker suffered PARIS - N from health issues that contrib- uted to his reaction to the condi- tions. The factory was not held liable for the fatality. VF also put a spotlight on Bangladesh, which has been trying to implement reforms in www.ohanaco.com the wake of two tragedies that claimed the lives of more than 8 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014

WWD CEO SUMMIT Honing Sights on a Moving Target Industry leaders gathered at The Pierre hotel in Manhattan to discuss how to succeed in a rapidly changing retail environment. They touched on topics from the balance of art and commerce in fashion and the melding of e-commerce and brick and mortar to the continued explosion of activewear. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE AND JOHN AQUINO

KAREN KATZ, NEIMAN MARCUS GROUP and I think unfortunately, this is an ongo- More so than any of her predecessors, ing situation with many other retailers.” Karen Katz, the president and chief exec- In a much different ongoing situation, utive officer of the Neiman Marcus Group, Neiman’s has been in discussions with is grappling with change at the luxury designer brands about leased shops, also chain — and it’s been coming on strong. known as concessions. American retail- There’s new ownership, more debt on ers have increasingly been embracing the books, recently overhauled manage- what’s largely been a European business ment and merchant teams, international model. Historically, Neiman’s has held ventures and a flurry of technologies to firm against it, with a couple of excep- streamline the customer experience in tions, one being Louis Vuitton. “We have stores and online, whether that’s person- pretty strong opinions about doing leased alizing the Web site or ordering online shops and concessions in our Neiman and picking up the order at a store. And Marcus stores,” Katz said. “We believe what about dealing with those sinister our most important priority is having an data breaches impacting many retailers? amazing customer experience for every “Driving change today is faster and customer who walks in one of our doors harder than ever and it has gotten very com- or clicks into one of our Web sites. Our plex,” Katz said at the WWD CEO Summit. philosophy is, leased and concession “ Yo u have to set audacious goals for models interrupt how you truly service your team and push them hard to stay fo- a customer around the store, and that’s cused on those goals. At the same time, what it’s all about. you have to adjust and readjust and ad- “We don’t have millions and millions just again, crafting the strategy as you of customers, so each and every customer are moving toward those goals.” is extremely important to us and the rela- Katz’ theme on the day was how the tionship we develop with each customer 107-year-old Neiman Marcus Group stays is done by making sure they have an ex- modern and relevant through change, in- traordinary experience when they are

novation and risk-taking, and what any in our stores or on our Web sites. Leased ceo must think about to manage it all. departments interrupt the flow of that “Are you doing change just for change relationship because in many ways, you sake? How will all these changes affect have to hand the people over. Times are

the customer experience?” she asked changing. Some brands that we have done rhetorically. business with for many decades have dif-

She recalled a managers’ meeting ferent thoughts about the way they want in Dallas, where the $5 billion NMG is to do business and so there are always based, where she laid out a five-year ongoing discussions with them about it.” vision to the team and “a reboot of our Addressing the summit’s theme of

strategies.” There, she showed a film clip Revolution/Evolution, Katz, who was of a speeding freight train “to illustrate wearing a Valentino butterfly print that you either had to get on board this jacket (the butterfly always appears in ’’ freight train that was coming on quick- some form on Neiman’s magalogues) ly or you needed to jump off out of its listed several Neiman’s innovations way. It was a really clear message that since it was founded, from the “his and things were going to be changing.…Even ’’ her” Christmas gifts to being the first re- a brand with impeccable heritage, like tailer to offer a loyalty program, known Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, as InCircle, and adapting paper gift cer- has to change and keep up with the tificates into electronic gift cards. She times.” Ye t it also must be “grounded in also said Neiman’s was among the first the promise to offer customers well-edit- to offer affluent women ready-to-wear ed product and serve them in a welcom- off the rack. “Innovation is not at all a ing and gracious environment.” stranger to us,” she said. A year ago, NMG was sold to Ares Here are some of Katz’s other Management and the Canada Pension thoughts on change and leadership: Plan Investment Board for $6 billion, I “Create an environment that fosters lifting the retailer’s long-term debt to change and innovation. Second, figure more than $4.5 billion. Asked about the out how to drive change deep into the or- added pressures that come with higher ganization. That’s not always easy.” debt, Katz said, “I love talking about the I “There has to be a willingness to ac- debt on our balance sheet on a Monday cept failure, and celebrate both small morning,” then turned serious, saying, “We were all kind of skeptical, but it’s a and large victories.” “We had been owned by private equity very, very, very compelling vision. Over I “Leadership is about creating and sell- firms for eight years and it was time for Driving change today time, Hudson Yards will bring a new epi- ing a vision and inspiring a team to go exe- us to make a change in our ownership.” center to New York.…It will really allow cute on that vision. The responsibility of a Neiman’s could have gone public or opt is faster and harder us to attract a very different customer leader is to create this cocoon, if you will, for another sale to private equity. “We than we have at Bergdorf Goodman. We that nurtures change and innovation.” did have a choice,” she said, adding pri- than ever and it has didn’t look anyplace else,” in Manhattan. I “Have a willingness to push your team, vate equity was chosen. “It wasn’t a matter of choosing one place but you also have to have a willingness “We know how to run a company with over another.” to have your team push back on you and a lot of debt on the balance sheet,” Katz gotten very complex. During the last holiday season, push you out of your comfort zone. It can said. “Not everybody is up for this chal- Neiman’s was hit by a data breach. “We be very uncomfortable and very scary, lenge but our team kind of understands — KAREN KATZ, NEIMAN were one of the first,” Katz noted. “It but in my mind, you have to run toward what it takes to have to make $260 mil- MARCUS GROUP was really a terrible, terrible situation. that discomfort, not away from it.” lion in interest payments every year The most important thing for us is mak- I “ Yo u have to show some measure of pa- because of that $4.5 billion in debt. But ing sure our customers are protected.” tience. At the same time, as fast as things in many ways, I believe being a private sion to open Neiman Marcus at Hudson She acknowledged that “we did some are moving, you have to show a sense of company in this day and time is actually Yards, which is being developed on the things wrong in terms of leading to the urgency.” better than being publicly traded. We’ve far West Side of Manhattan. “This was data breach, but the first thing we did and I “When risk is controlled and you do it had an amazing first year with [Ares and obviously a big decision for us,” she said. most important thing we did was to reach in a test-and-learn environment, you can CPPIB]. We needed to find equity owners “We really had no intention of coming out to all our customers and make sure minimize risk.” who understand the great brands that we to New York City. We don’t need to be in they knew their interests were our num- I “There is no embarrassment in failure.” manage and we needed people who were New York City. We have the best depart- ber-one priority through the data breach. I “There is great responsibility that willing to give us capital. We are pretty ment in the world in New York City,” We are very, very lucky we have the kind comes with change and innovation. We delighted with our ownership structure meaning Bergdorf Goodman, on the cor- of customers we have. They have a lot of always have to keep the customer in right now and feeling very good about the ner of Fifth Avenue and 58th Street. confidence in us. They knew we would fig- focus and make sure we are responding future in spite of the $4.5 billion in debt When Katz and her team met with ure out how to fix the problem, and I be- to the way they are changing their shop- on our balance sheet.” Steve Ross and Ken Himmel of The lieve our systems are much, much more ping habits.” Katz was also asked about the deci- Related Cos., developer of’’ Hudson Yards, secure today. We are very vigilant today — DAVID MOIN

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traditional backgrounds so this is the first time we’re doing a lot of things. Now we have someone to use as a sounding board and point us in the direction of re- sources. They’ve done it umpteen times before.” Surely there have been some challenges in the quest for a peaceful union of art and com- merce? “Spring/summer ’12 Neoprene pants,” said Durmer.

“Joseph really felt it.” “There were cone tops on dresses and not very flatter- ing materials,” said Altuzarra. “We as a company are very open to taking risks and mak-

ing mistakes because we have this very pragmatic, slow-and- steady approach.” Not to be left out of the busi- ness plan is the idea of emo- tion, that elusive ingredient that compels a ’’ customer toward the brand. “We’re not making corrugated cardboard and I’m fairly certain most people that come into a retail store to buy Altuzarra are already dressed,” said Durmer. “We need to build desire. That’s what Joseph does every single day with his team.” To that point, they believe the role of the runway is more im- portant than ever. Durmer noted that it’s easy to argue the oppo- site — all the tools and technolo- gy exist to make the transactions

Now people have realized that

different points of view and skill sets can help a ’’ company grow. — KARIS DURMER

JOSEPH ALTUZARRA AND KARIS studied art history at the ultra- mate can impact your business,” and ideal customer, “someone necessary to make a retail busi- DURMER, ALTUZARRA intellectual liberal arts school said Altuzarra. “As a whole, a lot who is in her late 50s or early ness happen. “If you’re a brand On the subject of art and com- Swarthmore College. “I real- of the designers of my generation 60s and still wants to be sexy of our age, it [the runway] puts merce, often a touchy topic be- ized in college that fashion was have started their own compa- and seductive...she doesn’t want you on a platform with other tween the creative and business a real industry and that it was nies, and starting your own com- to stop being a sexual being or brands. People can come and sides of a luxury fashion enter- something that you could actu- pany and understanding how you woman. That was always very see Joseph’s vision for Altuzarra. prise, Joseph Altuzarra and his ally make a living from,” said survive in this environment and much the model.” It’s the only environment we chief executive officer Karis Altuzarra, who learned design thrive demands an understand- Roitfeld, along with the rest have to do that. We don’t have a Durmer share the same big- on the job, working at Marc ing of both the art and the com- of the retail and editorial elite, physical store or space. That’s picture perspective: “This is not Jacobs and Proenza Schouler merce of the company.” has reciprocated Altuzarra’s our moment. Also, for the indus- For her part, Durmer’s ca- admiration from Day One. Ye t try as a whole, you have a month reer began in investment bank- despite the instant swell of sup- where the world is watching all ing and media business devel- port, Altuzarra and Durmer the creative genius’’ that comes As a whole, a lot of the designers of opment, breaking into fashion have resisted rapid expansion, out. That’s amazing for the in- in her early 30s when she was taking a slower, more calculated dustry. Collectively, everybody my generation have started their own in business school, which was approach than many other com- benefits from that moment.” a challenge. “For a long time, panies in the market. Altuzarra Altuzarra also noted that companies, and starting your own if you didn’t grow up in one of does not have its own store or they’re still a company of lim- the verticals — merchandising e-commerce. Social media is ited resource in terms of cash or sales — you really didn’t have strictly controlled. Even the con- and people. “We don’t advertise company and understanding how you an entryway [into fashion],” she cept of pre-collections, which so the runway is our only big said. “Now people have realized most designer labels can’t get marketing expense,” he said. “It survive in this environment and thrive that different points of view and into soon enough, were added in also allows our retail partners skill sets can help a company 2012 for resort, 2014 for pre-fall. and editors to understand what demands an understanding of both the grow. That being said, I think for Accessories — shoes launched Altuzarra is about, to create an someone to make that transition for resort and handbags are atmosphere.” and do it successfully you have forthcoming for fall 2015 — Both designer and ceo real- art and the commerce of the company. to have a real passion for prod- have only been developed since ize that for now Altuzarra is still uct first and foremost.” Kering took a 40 percent stake in very much a small fashion-insid- — JOSEPH ALTUZARRA Altuzarra and Durmer were the company in September 2013. er brand. The goal is to grow the introduced by Shirley Cook, Asked how the partnership business in a considered way, by art for art’s sake,” said Durmer before eventually moving back to ceo of Proenza Schouler, and with Kering has affected the leveraging partnerships. Thus, during a conversation at the Paris, where he grew up, to work have been working together company, Altuzarra and Durmer the design collaboration with summit. “But, on the other hand, with Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy. for four years. From the begin- had no criticism. He praised Target earlier this year. Asked it’s not purely a commercial en- He launched his own label in ning, Altuzarra has had a spe- Kering’s “hands-off ” approach, if it there was any backlash to a deavor, so that tension is why we 2008 just as the market crashed, cific vision of the woman he as well as the manufacturing re- luxury designer partnering with love to do it.” something which has also heav- wants to dress, the brand he sources it’s provided, new facto- a mass brand, Durmer said, “We To some extent, their holistic ily weighted his — and many of wants to build for her. Anchor ries, etc. As for Durmer, “[Kering] were able to generate three bil- philosophy toward the business his peers’, who went into busi- silhouettes are the slim pen- came to Altuzarra because they lion media impressions [through of fashion is owed to their re- ness around the same time — cil skirt with a severe slit up thought we were doing a great Target]. That’s a number that spective unconventional paths approach to his job. “There is a the thigh and sensual takes on job building the business, so they is impossible to achieve for a into the industry. Altuzarra did greater understanding of eco- men’s shirting. Carine Roitfeld let us continue to do it our way.... brand our age, based on our re- not attend fashion school but nomics and how the’’ financial cli- is constantly cited as his muse Joseph and I came from non- sources.” — JESSICA IREDALE

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experience, an off-price experi- ence, either online or in store,” he said, given Hudson Bay Co.’s breadth of portfolio. “We will be the most diversified pure-play retailer in North America.” Baker added that “the Lord & Taylor customer will treat herself to a luxury item at least

once a year. Our job is to make sure when she crosses formats, she does it with Saks.” Similarly, the goal is to convert the shopper who seeks out promotional pric- ing at the full-line Saks stores

or Lord & Taylor into a Saks Off 5th shopper. “We think the best way to win in this environment is to give our customers choices. Operating in a variety of formats allows this to happen.” More customers will be ’’ given that choice as Baker rolls out his plan to expand the off- price division and bring Saks stores to Canada. Those were two of the primary reasons Baker was so interested in buy- ing Saks when it became avail- able. “It allowed us to enter the

global luxury market as a major force. We knew luxury was a space we wanted to be in and acquiring Saks was the most efficient way. And we loved the real estate,” he said, “especial-

ly that big, beautiful building on Fifth Avenue.” Baker, whose background is in real estate, said, “Retail and real estate are perfect part- ners,” and the company’s “port- ’’ folio is a great source of value.” He said all told, Hudson’s Bay has 15 million square feet of property in North America, which can be a cash cow. He pointed to Target Corp.’s RICHARD BAKER, HUDSON’S BAY CO. our mergers and acquisitions but without a doubt, it’s the best magic of a store.” People still $1.85 billion acquisition of 189 Hudson’s Bay Co. still has an ap- that support our growth strategy, way to serve the boss — the cus- like to go shopping and experi- Zeller’s leases — the off-price petite for acquisitions. and third, our real estate hold- tomer — and represents the most ence the social aspects of the arm of Hudson’s Bay in Canada One year to the day after ings and expertise that are a important competitive advantage experience. He said he recent- — as proof of the value of real purchasing Saks Fifth Avenue great sense of value and financial over online-only players.” ly accompanied his 15-year-old estate. “And the public market for $2.4 billion, Richard Baker, flexibility. The combination of He said digital is a “huge daughter to a Lord & Taylor in consistently underestimates governor and chief executive these three business lines create area of focus for us,” and the Connecticut to go shoe shop- the value of the assets,” he officer of the Toronto-based re- what we believe is the winning, Web “already influences the ma- ping. “Being in a department said. “It also frees up capital tailer, said the quickest way to innovative business model of the jority of in-store sales. Our digi- store, it’s all about women’s to be redeployed to further our grow is by purchasing a comple- future for retail companies.” tal sites draw more traffic than shoes,” he said. “It was like overall strategy.” mentary retail business. Baker related a story about a Baker has also committed to “We’re in no rush to buy any- visit to Bentonville, Ark., about reinvesting $2 billion in cash thing, we have plenty on our plate 25 years ago when he was given over the next five years to up- right now,” he said. But “we’ve a store tour by Wal-Mart found- We’re in no rush to buy anything, we grade the stores and systems proven growth through [mergers er Sam Walton, who asked him: of his portfolio. That money, he and acquisitions] works.” “Richard, do you know who the said, will come from the “free Baker said he believes the boss is?” Baker smiled and said, have plenty on our plate right now. cash flow” that is generated as a “synergies” that are created — “Yes, Mr. Walton, it’s you.” But public company. the company is on track to save Walton shook his head and shot But we’ve proven growth through He said the company will $100 million a year by merging Baker down. “The boss is the also “substantially roll out” the the operations of its three retail customer and if you don’t make [mergers and acquisitions] works. number of Off 5th stores and businesses — is “one of the most that customer happy every sin- “selectively roll out” new Saks effective ways for us to grow gle day, that customer is going to — RICHARD BAKER, HUDSON’S BAY CO. Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor today and it brings us so much fire you. It’s a perspective that’s stores as it continues to invest opportunity to drive efficien- really stuck with me to today.” in online initiatives, making the cies. It allows us to create value Baker took that lesson to heart all our brick-and-mortar stores being in some spectacular Willy existing stores more produc- where others can’t. This value and has tried to inject that phi- put together. We are hyper-fo- Wonka candy store. And like tive and “periodically” making can then be reinvested into our losophy throughout his company. cused on growing this business.” an epiphany, I got it.” He said some “large-scale acquisitions.” core retail business.” “Like at Wal-Mart, at Hudson’s Baker projected that digital the customers all interacted, Baker said those can come from The company has owned Bay Co., our customer is the boss will represent 20 percent of the weighed in with the comments North America or internation- Lord & Taylor since 2006 and and there’s never been a time company’s business within the about the particular styles and ally. “We look at department Hudson’s Bay since 2008 and when the boss has never expect- next four years. And one way to generally enjoyed the experi- stores and businesses through- now operates a business with ed so much,” he said. reach that number is by luring ence. “What we own in stores out the world that would fit in more than $8 billion in annual That’s even more true the digital-only customer to visit can never be replicated on- well,” he said. top-line sales. “We’re a super- today when shopping choices a store. This, he projected, can line,” he said. In response to a question charged strategic buyer,” he said. are so plentiful. lead to “10 times the spend” of But it’s important that the from the audience, Baker also But acquisition is just one Baker said Hudson’s Bay Co. just a digital purchase. store experience be a positive explained the thinking behind way to expand, Baker said. is working to connect its brick- “Customers are shopping one. This can happen by creat- the opening of a full-line Saks Driving digital growth is also and-mortar and digital channels across multiple channels: ing an atmosphere’’ of “hospital- store at Brookfield Place in a major opportunity, he said, in order to better serve custom- luxury, department store and ity,” where customers feel “taken lower Manhattan. He said the along with expanding the Saks ers’ needs. “Your customer is off-price,” he said. “Whether care of and are treated warmly.” “energy and vibrancy” of the Off 5th business, bringing Saks shopping across channels,” he she’s buying a pair of Steve Toss in some entertainment area and “the mass of people full-line and Off 5th stores to said. “And we have to keep those Madden shoes at Hudson’s Bay, in the form of events, product down there is unbelievable. We Canada, and investing in the ex- customers shopping with us. a Michael Michael Kors hand- launches and exciting visual pre- think we have a customer down isting store base to better serve The only way to win is by con- bag at Lord & Taylor or a spec- sentations, and the opportunity there and we look at that zone the customer. Capitalizing on necting these two channels. tacular Fendi fur at Saks, our is even greater for the 100,000 as [equivalent to] the market the strength of the company’s “We believe the most pow- strategy is to keep these custom- people that visit one of Hudson’s area of Boston.” real estate portfolio is also a erful formula in retail today is ers shopping with us, no matter Bay Co.’s stores every day. The area is so ripe for busi- strategic advantage, he said. dominance in both channels, on- what they’re shopping for.” That number is destined to ness, he said, that the company Hudson’s Bay Co. is based on line and in-store, in businesses Even so, Baker said the “de- be even larger. “Over the next is also planning to add an Off “three business lines.” The first that work together seamlessly. It mise of the department store five years, we will be able to 5th a few blocks away near the is the “foundation” of the com- takes systems, process and disci- has been greatly exaggerated, offer our customers a luxury Century 21 flagship. pany, its retail business. “Second, pline, lots and lots of discipline, and there’s nothing like the experience, a department store — JEAN E. PALMIERI

w28a010(11)a;8.indd 10 10/27/14 7:26 PM 10272014192821 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 11 WWD.COM

GLEN SENK, FRONT ROW PARTNERS AND RON FRASCH, CASTANEA PARTNERS Innovative ideas that have traction that has accepted it,” as well as and scaleability are what initially a proven strategy and the type grabs the attention of investors. of management that allows for But what constitutes inno- thinking into the future. vation is where the decision- While neither one described making process becomes an in words what constitutes in- art form. Helping two private novation specifically, both are equity firms to identify those equally adept at the visceral opportunities are Glen Senk, instinct of knowing what a com- chairman and chief executive pelling idea is when they see officer of Front Row Partners, it. Senk described it as mer- which is partnering with chandising that evokes an emo- Berkshire Partners, and Ron tional response, the kind that Frasch, operating partner at gets the heart beating and pro- Castanea Partners. Both Senk vides a feeling of energy in the and Frasch were participants air. He recalled a call he made in “Roundtable Discussion: to Berkshire a few years ago Taking a Stake.” And both Senk when he told them to take a look and Frasch lend merchandising at Tory Burch before she even perspectives to private equity’s opened stores. “I think she’s the next Ralph [Lauren],” he said. financial teams:’’ Senk is the former chief executive officer Frasch, after years of work- of David Yurman and Urban ing in retail, said, “ Yo u develop a Outfitters Inc., while Frasch was sixth sense over the years.” Seeing president and chief merchandis- the product, reading the people ing officer at Saks Fifth Avenue and hearing their vision about until its sale to Hudson’s Bay, as their company is the “art side” Glen Senk and Ron Frasch well as the former ceo and pres- that merchants bring to the table. ident at Bergdorf Goodman. To be sure, there are also other According to Senk, “What I’m factors that can impact the deci- trouble that we’re having in the about the companies they invest that’s unique, scaleable and that doing is an evolution. I really sion to invest. While size matters, industry is self-inflicted. Many of in,” he explained, noting that an can be profitable. Button it up don’t see myself as a private eq- that too can depend on how fast us are not keeping up with the investment could be a minority and do your best to sell it.” uity guy. I see myself as a men- and how far a brand can grow. customer. The newbies are....” or majority position, with no de- For Frasch, companies “have tor and I’m working with a pri- “Size does matter,” said Frasch, Frasch noted that it’s difficult finitive time frame for holding to get to a certain size. At least vate equity guy. I’m working in who noted that Castanea just for a big, public retailer to try to the investment. “Their invest- get to level one of your business, partnership with them.” closed on a $600 million to $700 right a multibillion dollar com- ment is tailored to what the com- whatever that might be. Have a pany, something a private com- pany wants, not what [Berkshire] vision for what is going to take pany such as Castanea doesn’t wants,” Senk said. Front Row, you to level two and maybe have have to worry about. “But I which is targeting consumer a little proof of that....Everyone Just because you can design think there’s a need on the pri- goods firms, brings to the table in ready-to-wear thinks the fu- vate equity side to provide great Berkshire’s financial investment, ture is handbags and shoes and ready-to-wear doesn’t mean the mentoring and great knowledge and Senk’s “been there, done that direct to consumer....Just be- to the young, developing firms,” background [who] knows what an cause you can design ready-to- consumer will give you permission Frasch said. organization that does $25 mil- wear doesn’t mean the consum- While both are looking in lion or $50 million should look er will give you permission to the same places for opportunity like, and then what a $100 million design other categories.” Frasch to design other categories. here and overseas, they each business should look like.” emphasized that “great brands, bring something different to the Both seem to be enjoying their as they think about their future, — RON FRASCH, CASTANEA PARTNERS table for companies looking for roles as they evolve their careers. need to think about tailoring to an investment partner where “I honestly haven’t had any what they’re great at, to what negotiations over a deal can be bad days,” Frasch said, not- their passion is.” He explained what he’s “try- million fund, and that the math- as short as six weeks or far lon- ing “so this is like heaven.” He As for what to be alert to, ing to do is identify talent, which ematics of the business requires ger, whether a courting period said what makes it great is that Senk cautioned that a big sur- is really what I’ve been doing my the private equity firm to give is required or an opportunity every day he’s meeting people prise for him is how many whole entire career, and support back $1.2 billion (for the return that’s for further down the road. with “tremendous vision and people stall at a certain level them and help them.” on the investment). “We can’t tie Castanea once owned goals,” although he’s told some and how they need to stand out In identifying talent, Senk ourselves up with a lot of small Neiman Marcus Group for 18 that their business is too small instead. “Stop benchmarking spoke about “people with amaz- businesses, but that doesn’t mean years before selling the busi- for Castanea and even suggested yourself to mediocrity. Don’t ing, compelling ideas,” where Castanea should ignore the small, ness to private equity firms. to a few that maybe they should use someone else’s playbook. it doesn’t mean a product but talented firms that have the abil- According to Frasch, that owner- look for some other direction for Use your own playbook,” Senk “someone with tremendous vi- ity to grow into bigger businesses ship means the founders of the their business. said. For Frasch, he compared sion, someone with something tomorrow,” he explained. firm realize that retail is a cap- Senk said, “I haven’t had joining forces with private eq- that’s going to transcend for sev- For Senk, the minimum ital-intensive business. “We’re more fun in my life.” While the uity as “getting married. Yo u eral seasons, [as well as] a proven investment is $25 million, al- engaged. We’re not just people first few months of the launch of have a partner you’re going to economic model [and great lead- though that can’’ hit as high at who write a check and stop by Front Row meant longer hours be living with every day. Yo u ers who have] drive, curiosity, $500 million or more. every three months,” he said, than he expected, Senk said, better like that partner. Yo u bet- are forward-thinking, and lastly, Senk has a reason for spe- adding that Castanea is looking “I’m having a blast.” ter trust the partner, but most people we have synergies with.” cifically focusing on people for opportunities in the aspira- According to Senk, the take- importantly, you better like the Frasch says he’s looking for and their ideas. “It is a time of tional fashion space. away regarding the one thing a person....We work with people “creators and innovators. Yo u tremendous change, but with Senk touted Berkshire’s $11 company seeking private invest- we want to work with [and that] can have great management, but change comes opportunity....[I billion of currently committed ment should know is to have a we like working with. We’re not what we need are great ideas want to] identify the people who capital or employed capital, and “defensible idea. Don’t go seeking going to make a selection of an people.” He’s looking in partic- recognize this and to support how since the fund’s inception an investment based on a prod- investment of a firm where we ular for “people who have bro- them and help them achieve in 1986, the average annualized uct, but have a compelling vision, don’t like the people. It’s just ken through with a concept or their vision....I don’t think the return is just less than 30 per- something that truly connects not going to happen.” idea and have a consumer base economy is so tough. I think the cent. “It’s not about them, but with the customer. Something — VICKI M. YOUNG

SUZANNE LEE, BIOCOUTURE LTD. like suede. “It’s soft, robust, “And they’re using living experience of apparel merchan- Suzanne Lee doesn’t just fore- flexible...naturally combustible cells, living organisms to pro- disers, but she offered a photo see a future in which “the fron- and naturally fire- and water- duce those materials, so bacte- of a skirt made from cellulose tier of fashion will be where proof,” she noted. ria, yeast, algae, fungi and even derived from microbes, rather designer jeans meet designer “What if we could make animal cells” are all compo- than an agricultural product. genes” and “white-coated work- leather as lightweight and trans- nents of the toolbox. Her brave new world of tex- ers combine with white-coated parent as a butterfly’s wing?... Biocouture was among a num- tile technology also allows for scientists” to produce the latest What if we could make a fabric ber of companies commissioned the possibility of leather based in luxury apparel derived from that has the dynamic respon- by Selfridges department store on an animal’s genetic make- microbes, the root systems of siveness to your body or our sur- for its Festival of Innovation ear- up, but produced without the mushrooms and even cells bor- roundings of a chameleon?” she lier this year. It presented prod- slaughter of or even injury to rowed from animals. wondered aloud. ucts derived from, among other an animal. As founder and president “Around the world today,” nontraditional sources of ap- “Animal cells could fuel the of Biocouture, she’s already at she said, “scientists are actu- parel and textiles, bacteria and luxury industry of the future,” work on such ideas and, as she ally looking at producing a worm excreta. she said. demonstrated for guests, she new generation of materials “Doesn’t sound too appealing, Among the ancillary benefits has samples to show for it. which seek to not mimic na- does it?” she asked the audience, of innovations in bio-manufac- Lee supplied photos of a ture using synthetics, but to adding that silk is essentially the turing, she noted, will be a de- knitted mesh dress produced actually harvest living cells to waste product of a silkworm. creased toll on the planet and its from mycelium, part of the root divine and fabricate materials Likewise, the idea of apparel animal inhabitants, and a higher- system of a mushroom and en- for us that are newly synthe- products derived from cellulose tech approach to sustainability. dowed with properties not un- sized natural materials. is well within the traditional — ARNOLD J. KARR 12 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014

JENNIFER HYMAN, RENT THE dressing room transformed. We “It’s been humbling how RUNWAY & ANDY DUNN, BONOBOS want that to be front and cen- much capital is required to Two brands born on the Internet ter,” she said. build a great e-commerce busi- — Bonobos and Rent the Runway Hyman pointed out that ness,” Dunn said, reminiscing — have turned to physical retail more than 70 percent of U.S. back to 2007 when he “started to expand their businesses. families are headed by women, small. I raised $750,000 and I Jennifer Hyman, cofounder with 49 percent single-par- said to an early investor, ‘Do and chief executive officer of ent households. “She is busy, you think we’ll ever raise money Rent the Runway, said that New which is why Amazon does so again?’” York — which comprised 15 well,” she added. “Stores have He soon realized he wouldn’t percent of the business — saw to distinguish themselves and be able to turn a profit on his a doubling in conversion after give her a reason to walk in. less-than-a-million in funding, a brick-and-mortar store was Convenience.” discovering that an enormous opened there. Her advice was for retailers amount of infrastructure goes “That was significant,” to follow Amazon and Zara to into building an e-commerce Hyman said, noting that ev- see where the market is head- brand. Customer service is a erything she and cofounder ed. “The customer is 28 years mandatory investment — in- Jennifer Fleiss do is based on old with an income of $100,000 cluding free shipping and re- an “MVP model of testing,” and she’s never walked into a turns — as is marketing, which from opening the first retail department store because Zara adds up when building a verti- space in the company’s New looks so good,” Hyman said. cal brand from scratch online. York City headquarters to form- Like Rent the Runway, free- Another irony of the business ing a partnership with Henri standing doors have also be- for Dunn is that the Guideshops Bendel to opening the store on come integral to Bonobos, which have actually proven to be sig- West 18th Street. It took just Andy Dunn and Jennifer Hyman already has 10 Guideshops and nificant moneymakers and one month for the latter to be- plans to open an additional 30 “great standalone enterprises.” come a reality — from the time in the next two years. “We are in It’s actually been harder to turn Fleiss found the space on 18th Bonobos, it’s not the most im- specific region or city — one of the first pitch of the first inning a profit on the e-commerce por- Street in August to the day doors portant thing the company does. the benefits to being an e-com- in terms of vertical brand build- tion of a company than it has opened for business on Sept. 3. “We had this battle early merce company at the core and ing,” he said. been for freestanding doors. During the first six months of on. Was this a tech company a retail operation at the fringe. Ironically, Dunn started his Bonobos has raised more this year, Hyman said that rent- or a retail company?” Dunn Originally, Bonobos’ brick-and- business online in 2007 because than $127 million to date over therunway.com has rented the asked, adding that Bonobos mortar Guideshops were placed he wanted to offer a level of cus- the course of seven rounds of equivalent of $300 million in re- used to have a brand office in on the second stories of build- tomer service that wasn’t found funding. The latest round, a $55 tail value of dresses and acces- New York and a technology of- ings, but foot traffic exploded in-store. But he wound up ven- million Series D that closed in sories. She predicted that this fice on the West Coast. At the once they were moved down to turing into retail — by accident July, included participants like amount will reach about $600 core, he called the company a the ground floors. Doors began — and now boasts among the Accel Partners, Nordstrom, million by the end of 2014 — not “merchant” — one that’s been to see a population made of highest net promoter scores (a Coppel Capital and Lightspeed including the Unlimited busi- maniacal about updating fit for two-thirds new customers and tool that measures customer sat- Venture Partners. ness that rolled out this summer. the American guy, as well as one-third returning custom- isfaction). That score now is high- Dunn pointed to successful “That’s how quickly we want providing the optimal customer- ers — when the exact opposite er than the score of his Web site. e-commerce brands like Zulily to open things….We’re taking service experience, both online holds true for the Web site, “People want to still touch and or Diapers.com — noting that data and iterating it and not and off. which is largely a repeat-cus- feel and try on clothes — duh,” they’ve each raised $50 million to being afraid of what the con- Both executives lauded mo- tomer business. he said of the brand’s first acci- $100 million-plus to get to scale. sequence will be. Often people bile and online for helping to Hyman agreed. After a con- dental store, which was just two “It takes a decade and it

paralyze themselves with too reinvent the store experience sumer books a one-on-one fitting rooms in the lobby. It be- takes a lot of capital. I think much strategy and not enough by making it more personal appointment at a Rent the came a place where e-commerce that’s a good thing,” he said, execution,” Hyman said, credit- than it’s ever been. For in- Runway location, a stylist uses transactions started to occur, adding that means brick-and- ing speed to the fact that Rent stance, associates at Rent the personalization algorithms and and thus the first Guideshop was mortar retailers then have a the Runway is a technology com- Runway stores are privy to con- behavior to select options that born. The reimagined retail ex- chance to close the gap and pany first. sumer information such as past the client will like. Clients can perience emphasized customer catch up. He contrasted this to

Bonobos founder and ceo rentals, products she’s loved on go straight to the dressing room service, with the product sent to the music and film industries, Andy Dunn, who was on a panel the site, as well as height, chest upon arrival. the customer later. which were caught off guard by with Hyman moderated by WWD size and weight. “We dedicated about 65 per- Dunn admitted that it’s been the downloadable music trend deputy managing editor Evan Dunn called being able to cent of the square footage to a longer ride — investment and and still have not figured out Clark, said that although tech- “merchandise to the individu- the dressing room experience. profitability wise — than he how to compete. nology is an important facet to al” — versus merchandising to a People will walk out of the would have guessed. — RACHEL STRUGATZ TREVOR EDWARDS’’ , NIKE live workouts around the world. image problem with women, As part of its aim to bolster Edwards noted that by Edwards said, “We expressed women’s sales from $5 billion to bringing this movement to life our view very strongly to the $7 billion in the next two years, through its own stores as well NFL. They admitted they had Nike will continue to play up as retail partners like Macy’s not handled the situation well the experiential with female Inc., the company was extend- and they don’t have a clear pro- consumers. ing an invitation to women to cess within their organization That was the word from Nike participate in fitness. To that to manage their way through it. Brand president Trevor Edwards. end, the Nike women’s mara- Our ceo, Mark Parker, was re- Knowing that powerful ads will thon sells out its 25,000 slots cently asked a similar question no longer cut it with tech-savvy within an hour of opening reg- and he was very open about how shoppers, the Beaverton, Ore.- istration, he said. we cannot tolerate domestic vio- based company is focused on real- Through its social network, lence or any of these issues that life tie-ins that will resonate with Nike has 65 million women who are not only serious for sports fitness-minded women. connect with the brand every but also for society at large.” Regarding the increasing number of non-athletic brands getting into the “ath-leisure” The future for us is really about market, Edwards said, “We don’t think it’s a trend. We think it’s a providing women with a seamless largest sports and lifestyle busi- abuse of children is absolutely cultural shift. Sports and fitness ness around the world today.” abhorrent, so there’s no toler- have become a part of life. And “The future for us is really ance for that. That is absolutely many others have seen the op- opportunity to have great products, about providing women with a our position. As we were working portunity to do that. And I do be- seamless opportunity to have with the NFL, they recognized lieve that competition is a good great services and great experiences. great products, great services that they actually did not deal thing because it keeps you very and great experiences,” said with it as perfectly as they could focused. We do believe that there — TREVOR EDWARDS, NIKE Edwards, adding that the com- and we know that. At the same are few brands that are able to pany remains committed to ser- time, one of the things we rec- connect with her in the way we vicing consumers individually, ognized as a brand is that sports can — the ability to give her in- To encourage training at any day and 18 million people have which has been a priority since and athletes have this amazing novative products that allow her hour, the brand has created a downloaded the Nike women’s the company was founded more ability to inspire us at the same to be better. At the same time, we workout routine app. Launched training application. Those sorts than 40 years ago. time. Whenever we have these give her great services to invite in 2011, Nike Training Club, a of connections to consumers Asked if Nike faced push- issues, we take them on a case- her to the participation of sport. workout app for women, is avail- should help fuel growth for the back from female athletes or by-case basis...and that is how we If you go into our stores, we have able in 17 languages with 100 brand in the women’s category, women’s groups in the wake of worked our way through it.” running clubs and training clubs workouts defined for different according to Edwards. Nike the National Football League’s Nike no longer works with where women actually partici- goals and now 800,000 workouts aims to grow its women’s busi- recent domestic violence is- Rice and Peterson was suspend- pate with the brand. We believe and 200,000 programs are com- ness to $7 billion in sales in the sues with Ray Rice and Adrian ed by Nike. we really have a complete offer- mitted to each month. In addi- next two years, he said. Peterson, Edwards said, “It starts As for whether the sneaker ing for someone who is actually tion, two million workouts have That growth will only en- off for us in a very basic way. giant expects a seat at the table participating in this lifestyle.” been completed at the company’s hance what he described’’ as “the We think domestic violence and as the NFL tries to correct its — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

w28a012a;8.indd 12 10/27/14 8:17 PM 10272014201757 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 13 WWD.COM DR. QING WU, GOOGLE ago...but in the last year and a Wu said searches vary by In his role as senior economist half, it’s actually plateaued. It seasonality. Often manufac- at Google, Dr. Qing Wu uncov- didn’t go further up,” he said. turers release clothing at the ers economic and consumer Now people are using mobile same time all over the country behavior from search trends. a lot more and using apps because localization is very Prior to joining Google nine more, but Google can’t mea- difficult. But if you search years ago, Wu was recruited to sure the app query search. leather jackets, for example, the Gap, where he said he was “Everybody’s talking about you’ll find that in Texas, leath- impressed with the beautiful e-commerce and the multide- er jackets will dip in the sum- people in the building. “It’s vice world,” he said. Now, you mer but peak in December. such a different crowd that I have mobile, tablets (that are In New York, leather jackets am used to. I joined the Gap used mostly in the night), and have two peaks: in March and and missed the IPO of Google. desktop. “They can shop and October. In California, leather Lesson learned,” he said. research anytime. Google has jackets peak in December, Over the past nine years, made a lot of effort in the past which makes it more simi- Wu has been monitoring, un- few years offering cross-devic- lar to Texas. This should give derstanding and discovering es solutions,” he said. manufacturers ideas on when what’s driving Google’s search During the key shopping to release fall season and win- trends. He was the one who season between Black Friday ter season clothes because coined the phrase, “Google as and Cyber Monday in 2013, mo- weather patterns are so differ- the barometer of the world.” bile search exceeded desktop, ent, he said. Take Valentine’s Day, for said Wu. On Cyber Monday, Wu also was surprised to example. He pointed out that people returned to work and learn that fashion trends don’t women’s searches peaked shopped from their office and necessarily start in New York around Feb. 13 (women are desktop, and desktop was or Los Angeles. In a search for shoppers and planners), while greater than mobile. “What’s maxiskirts, he found that the men’s (who shop at the last going to happen this year? I trend actually started in Utah, minute) peaked on Feb. 14. don’t know yet. But there’s a and then spread out across He asked the audience if clear sign that mobile usage is the Midwest and Northeast, they remembered the first accelerating,” he said. before spreading all over the thing they ever bought online. Search also becomes height- country. Cropped tops and People in the audience called ened around the holiday sea- high-waisted shorts started in out “books” and “music,” and son. Google is able to see huge Texas and Florida. then “airline tickets” and search spikes on Black Friday He believes data can help “cameras.” Wu said the per- and Cyber Monday. “I think tell the right story and can centage of queries related this is due to merchants giving help retailers with seasonal- to air travel and consumer a lot of discounts online, and ity, merchandising, inventory electronics have been declin- the online shopping experi- planning, store planning and

ing the last few years because ence is a lot better than it used localization. these sectors are maturing to be, the return policies are It even reveals big national “and you can’t find travel agen- better, and there’s free ship- trends. Case in point: Among cies anymore.” The percentage ping, ” said Wu. He said coun- the top 10 most-searched of apparel queries peaked be- tries such as China, Brazil and Halloween costumes this year? tween 2010 and 2012. “There the U.K. are also creating key “‘Frozen’ dominated every-

was an acceleration of e-com- shopping days to have shop- thing,” he said. merce for apparel a few years ping sprees for consumers. — LISA LOCKWOOD

from around the world. A total of 2,179 end, this is where retailers are looking fashion projects have been funded with for what’s next.”’’ 551,724 pledges. Pinto raised more than $270,000 in Strickler pulled back the curtain on 45 days for her dress line, gaining 600 some of his platform’s operations during customers and ultimately shipping 1,200 a panel discussion with executives at two pieces. She said like-minded backers for companies that have both received fund- her project were “basically preordering ing on Kickstarter: Satya Twena, ceo of dresses.” Satya Twena Fine Millinery, and Maria “It’s about consumer consciousness,” Pinto, founder and creative director of Pinto said. “People want to know what’s M2057 by Maria Pino. Leading the con- happening, why are you doing this? I versation was WWD senior fashion fea- think more and more that plays into what tures editor Marc Karimzadeh. they’re buying.” Twena started making hats four years For instance, Pinto’s collection is ago when her mother found herself in sud- waste-free, with leftover material donat- den need during cancer treatment. But the ed to schools. business ultimately needed some funds. “When my factory went under, I had maybe two weeks to figure out what I was doing, so I turned to Kickstarter and [Backers] are not saved one of Manhattan’s last hat facto- ries,” Twena said. trying to make a buck People who funded Twena’s dream had the chance to tour the factory for themselves. It’s and see the process up close. She has raised more than $250,000 this year on Kickstarter. But it wasn’t necessar- about creating a richer, ily easy, nor is the platform right for all Yancey Strickler, Maria Pinto and Satya Twena. funding needs. more diverse world. “Creating a Kickstarter campaign, it’s not something that everybody should do,” — YANCEY STRICKLER YANCEY STRICKLER, KICKSTARTER, tion to the chance to get in on the ground Twena said. “ Yo u have to have a compel- SATYA TWENA, SATYA TWENA FINE MILLINERY, floor of something new). ling story. Yo u have to have a growing ON KICKSTARTER MARIA PINTO, M2057 BY MARIA PINTO “A good idea is just a good idea,” group of people who believe in what you There’s a power-to-the-people movement Strickler said. “This is a place where do….It’s a great platform if you’re ready This isn’t the first foray into fashion happening when it comes to funding new people can come with ideas… [and] peo- to tell a story. But it really does take a lot for Pinto, who’s had a line since 1991 and ideas in fashion. ple are excited about them because they of energy, it’s not, you put your video up sold to Neiman Marcus and elsewhere. Designers have long turned to friends think they’re cool. [Backers] are not try- there and immediately have people sup- She has both an affinity for the fash- and family to bootstrap a first collec- ing to make a buck for themselves. The porting your campaign.” ion industry and a desire to see a new tion or a new direction, but thanks to motivations are very different. It’s not She stressed the importance of having way of doing things. Kickstarter, that pool of “friends” is about financial upside, it’s about creating a plan to get people to support you and “I want to respect those institutions, much larger, more digital and on some- a richer, more diverse world.” how to get exposure in the press. I want to respect the whole fashion in- thing of a mission. Despite all its tech savvy, the platform “It can be the biggest asset for your dustry,” Pinto said. “But I think there’s People looking for funding on also harkens back to the past. business,” she said. something that we’re all still figuring out. Kickstarter post videos explaining what “It’s a direct commerce happening Although Twena likened her success And that’s why I think it was an amazing they’re up to and promising something in between creators and their audiences on Kickstarter to having proof of concept opportunity to do Kickstarter.” return; for instance, a look from a forth- and something that’s very close to the for her ideas, she said retailers have The platform’s already had some coming line. The project is only funded if patronage systems that were so preva- been slow to engage. major hits. ’’ the full amount requested is raised. lent around the 17th and 18th centuries,” Yancey was confident that stores The virtual reality firm Oculus Rift got To hear the five-and-a-half-year-old Strickler said. would come around. its start on Kickstarter and was bought by Web site’s chief executive officer Yancey To date, there have been about 75,000 “Give that time,” he said. “Just wait Facebook. The price tag? Two billion dollars. Strickler tell it, people who fund projects successfully funded projects that have for people to catch up. I think this is the A fashion line could be next. are looking for a better world (in addi- collectively raised more than $1.3 billion way things are really being made. In the — EVAN CLARK

w28a013b;7.indd 2 10/27/14 8:02 PM 10272014200338 14 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014

STEVE HOLMES, INTEL AND FRANCIS BITONTI, FRANCIS BITONTI STUDIO Borrowing a familiar phrase, Steve Ceremony wanted the product to be metal. Holmes, vice president of Intel’s new But a cell phone or radio doesn’t work devices group and general manager of inside a metal case. We decided it would the smart devices team, said, “We be- look like a metal case and have the feel of lieve that it takes a village to make really the metal case, but it’s 18-karat gold-plat- compelling products. It’s about creating ed. The first design was more rectangular a new ecosystem. We strongly believe in and thicker. Opening Ceremony said it had partnerships.” to be rounder and thinner. It’s been a hu- Holmes invited the fashion industry mongous learning curve.” ’’ to join Intel in tapping into the potential “We loved what it stood for: the semi- of wearable technology, which, by 2017, is precious stones on top and the wrapping expected to be a 278-million-unit indus- [wrist band] made of water-snake skin,” tr y, according to analysts. said Umberto Leon, cofounder of Opening For that to happen, there will have to Ceremony. “We knew we had to leave the be a lot of advancements in technology. metal factor. We loved the symmetry of the “There’s going to be a huge effort and dots of semiprecious jewels and the water a number of new partnerships and new snake to add the hint of luxury. It’s how ideas to get the devices into the hands of we design clothing and how we design consumers all over the world,” Holmes shoes. It’s very instinctual.” said, adding that for wearables to be- Holmes said Intel will be partnering come important to consumers, “they have with Milk Studios, through Muzse, its to become objects of desire. That’s why invite-only lab that will gather artists, Intel is so interested in working with the sports figures and musicians to create an fashion industry.” One innovation that’s allowed Intel The things that we wear don’t have to be to create wearables is the incredible Francis Bitonti shrinking processor. Computers have gone from desktop to briefcase to smart- passive. They can actively engage in phones, which put the processing power into consumers’ pockets. Intel has min- the environment around them. iaturized the processor so much that it can fit one billion transistors on the — STEVE HOLMES, INTEL head of a pin. “Intel is working to create pieces that are a lot more digestable for our partners,” Holmes said. “Edison is Intel is testing Edison and 3-D printing. models,” he said. “Just changing a few a good example. It’s a computer that’s a A smart dress developed in collaboration parameters of that same algorithm could little bigger than a postage stamp. It uses with Dutch designer Anouk Wipprecht produce something incredibly different. very little power, has built-in Wi-Fi and picks up brain waves and heart rate and is These are intelligent systems. This isn’t Bluetooth connectivity and can be incor- sensitive to the proximity of other people. CAD as you know it.” porated into any wearable product.” It can light up and tell people to go away The next visual was of a dress Bitonti Cloud connectivity has made advanc- or entice them to come closer. “The things made with a group of students using the es in wearables possible, Holmes said. that we wear don’t have to be passive,” same algorithm. “It’s all using desktop “Access to these services and the ability Holmes said. “They can actively engage in printers,” he said. “These are all things to do processing and store huge amounts the environment around them.” you can produce at home for less than of data is what separates the wearables In a separate speech, Francis Bitonti, $400. The dress is made of a biodegrad- of today and smart devices of today from founder of the studio that bears his able corn-based polymer.” the embedded systems of decades ago.” name, called 3-D printing and the tech- An image showed Dita Von Teese Holmes discussed My Intelligent nology behind it a production break- wearing a dress created’’ by Bitonti. “This Communication Accessory, Intel’s part- environment where they can experiment through. “Something new is happening is the dress I’m most well-known for,” nership with Opening Ceremony and with Intel engineers. and we’re at a point where language he said. “It’s not a couture garment. Barneys New York, “because it portends “Wearables will bring a unique value can make things,” he said, adding that Everybody thinks it’s a couture garment.” what the future of wearables can be. Most proposition,” he said. “It’s about inti- “3-D printing is driven by computer The dress, which was 3-D-printed, has of us think of wearables as companions macy, immediacy and persistence.” The language. This is going to dramatically 3,000 articulated unique joints and is to the phone. MICA actually has built-in intimacy of the device being close to change the way we relate to physical covered with 12,000 crystals. It was as- 3G connectivity, can talk to the clouds the body allows it to pick up things such matter, the design process and distri- sembled from 12 moving parts. “It moves through a partnership with AT&T and al- as a heartbeat or perspiration level. A bution. It’s going to change the way we and drapes like fabric,” Bitonti said. “It’s lows you to get your SMS messages and Bluetooth headset that whispers in the think of physical goods.” chain mail, 16 micron resolution. That send them and also get notifications. wearer’s ear or a pair of glasses that Bitonti showed an intricate draw- resolution is improving daily.” It was designed in collaboration with gives them a message represent imme- ing on a screen and said, “This was not Bitonti pondered the implications of Opening Ceremony with an eye toward its diacy, Holmes said. Persistence is getting made by a person. It was made by an al- all the technology. “If materials do become customers. What’s also interesting about it a continuous record of your activity, like gorithm. What’s behind it is just a simple digital and they’re so easily transported, to me is that it’s a piece of fashion, first.” a Nike Fuel Band. set of on-and-off decisions. It appears to what does that mean for an object, espe- MICA, which will be sold at Barneys “There’s certainly technical problems, have intelligence — there are structures cially a luxury product?” he said. “What for holiday, comes in two models: one such as battery life,” said Holmes of the coming together and coming apart. We happens to that heirloom watch? What pearl and the other with lapis lazuli. Ayse challenges facing wearables in general. can use these systems to create form.” happens to the consumer? Is the consumer Ildeniz, vice president of business devel- “Some of those are being addressed. Bitonti showed another slide of an going to have to play a really active role in opment and strategy for Intel’s new devic- We’re looking at harvesting energy from algorithm that’s usually used to simu- production now? Consumption, my guess, es group, who worked on the project, told body temperature or making batteries late bird flight. “We’re using it here to is not a passive thing anymore.” WWD prior to the summit that “Opening that have much longer lifetimes.” conform to a body scan of one of our — SHARON EDELSON

SARAH QUINLAN, MASTERCARD ADVISORS With the migration to online buying, e- and apparel firms, encouraging them to be Investments in e-commerce are allowing de- commerce accounted for 15.7 percent of more creative and practical in their pursuit partment stores to blunt the effects of a sharp department-store sales last month, versus of customers and sales. move away from shopping in the channel. its 6.1 percent share of retail sales exclud- Year-over-year sales of apparel in Sarah Quinlan, senior vice president of ing the automotive category. That’s a lower September were up 2.1 percent, an improve- market insights for MasterCard Advisors, percentage than the 22.8 percent of apparel ment over the 0.5 percent increase in August cited statistics from the company’s sales conducted online or the 41.5 percent of but well below April’s 6.8 percent increase, SpendingPulse consumer buying data for electronics and appliances sales brought in the highest mark of the calendar year. With a September showing a 4.8 percent decline in over the Web but above the 14.3 percent of weak sales trend and prices not heading up- sales in U.S. department stores. However, jewelry sales transacted over the Internet. ward, U.S. apparel marketers are confronted with a 10.3 percent increase in their e-com- “This is what’s saving department stores,” with virtually “no pricing power,” she noted. merce sales, department-store sales for the the MasterCard executive said, adding that “We buy apparel twice a year,” month — combining the figures for online “bricks and mortar gives people the ability to Quinlan said. “We buy in April and we and off-line —were down 2.7 percent. have that experience [in department stores] buy in October if the weather has turned. “We don’t like shopping in department but omnichannel gives you flexibility.” There was virtually no back-to-school in stores at all,” Quinlan said. “It’s been the She noted a strong upturn in sales in res- apparel this year whatsoever.” worst category for the entire year....The taurants and for travel and lodging in recent Although apparel purchases by women physical bricks-and-mortar experience months as evidence that consumers have aged 18 to 35 have improved slightly in of the department store is not something money to spend but are inclined to use it for October —rising 4.2 percent after just a 1 people wish to pay for.” more “experiential” pursuits. “We like our percent advance in the second quarter of the Brick-and-mortar department-store families and friends again,” she pointed out. year — she noted that Millennials in general sales have been down every month of the She advised retailers to develop part- have “no money” and are “not spending.” year except for April, when they rose 0.7 nerships with, for one, travel agencies as a “If you want to market to Millennials, percent, while e-commerce sales attrib- means of boosting apparel sales for periods why don’t you market to me?” the mother utable to those stores have risen every when consumers are likely to be spending of a female Millennial asked the audi- month since December, highlighted by a for vacation wardrobes. Consumers are ence with just a drop of sarcasm. “We 33.7 percent jump during the final month spending, she said, but “they’re just not have money and we feel sorry for these of last year and the countdown to and im- spending with you,” she told an audience children — I have no idea why. And we mediate aftermath of Christmas. dominated by senior management of retail spend on them.” — ARNOLD J. KARR WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 15 WWD.COM

Shanghai Tang The three-part runway show from on the runway. Nicole Shanghai Tang included the launch Kidman at of their China Fashion Chic initiative, Shanghai featuring two capsule collections from Tang. Chinese designers Masha Ma and Wang Peiyi. Though the concept made its debut in conjunction with Shanghai Fashion Week, de Chermont hopes to help the profile of modern Chinese design by tak- ing it outside of China. “Rather than trying to create some- thing that only happens here, I want to take China Fashion chic to London, New York, Paris fashion weeks,” he said. “Instead of having journalists coming here now, it’s better that we go to the West and, as we build a critical mass, there will be more Chinese designers and per- haps eventually there will be the interest Event-Laden Week internationally, then [the West] will start looking at this part of the world.” Timothy Parent, founder of local de- Concludes in Shanghai sign agency China Fashion Collective and the man behind the Chinese People Do Yo u Style blog, is a veteran of 11 Shanghai Fashion Weeks, as well as a past attendee about meeting the customers, so it’s been at Beijing’s China Fashion Week and new By CASEY HALL a great experience for me to be in touch Paolo Zegna player, Fashion Now, which launched in with these women and to understand Beijing last year and just wrapped its sec- SHANGHAI — Shanghai Fashion Week them, to share, to explain, to listen and ond incarnation on Oct. 12. wound down Thursday after eight days to digest,” Valli said backstage. “I think He agrees that Shanghai seems the of shows from Chinese designers and Shanghai now is like New York 20 years Chinese city most likely to build a high- numerous events from major inter- back, it’s new and arty and exciting and level fashion week, though he has seen national brands, simultaneously held energetic. We need that. We need the en- progress among the standard of local as part of the Shanghai International ergy, the enthusiasm of the people. The designers showing at Shanghai Fashion Designer Showcase. vision of customers here is so new.” Week stagnate in recent seasons. The start of the week coincided with Though he says he does a “nice busi- “Over the past few years, I haven’t re- the one-year anniversary of Shanghai’s ness” in China, particularly in Hong Kong, ally seen a lot of big changes. There are Lane Crawford department store, as well Valli — like Ferretti — is looking for con- always one or two standout shows, a cou- as the launch of Zac Posen’s capsule col- tinued growth, both in China and among ple more quite good shows, and the rest is lection for local retailer Five Plus, and Chinese consumers shopping elsewhere. quite mediocre,” he said, of the local offer- flagship openings for Pringle of Scotland More established players in China, ings. “They’re not doing enough to raise and Shang Xia, the China-focused off- including Ermenegildo Zegna and Hong the standard and the consistency, so that shoot of Hermès. Kong-based Shanghai Tang, also took the it’s similar to international fashion weeks.” The biggest name making an appear- opportunity to hold events in conjunction Standouts among the Chinese design- ance in the Shanghai Fashion Week with Shanghai Fashion Week. ers showing this week included long- tents at Taiping Lake Park in Shanghai’s Zegna has been in China since 1991 Fashion Week as an increasingly impor- time Shanghai Fashion Week favorite Ji high-end shopping and lifestyle enclave and has recently faced stiff competition tant destination for international players. Cheng, London-based Haizhen Wang, as of Xintiandi was Alberta Ferretti, who from new players in the men’s market, “Shanghai Fashion Week is an event we well as the ethereal Ban Xiao Xue and repeated the shows for her spring and at the same time as the Chinese govern- like very much. China needs to be on the newcomers CJ Ya o and Yi Ran Tian. latest bridal collections, and unveiled a ment’s crackdown on corruption and con- table for every brand and every business Xiaolei Lu, vice secretary general capsule line of evening gowns designed spicuous consumption has hit the men’s that wants to progress in the future. If you of the Shanghai Fashion Week commit- especially for the occasion, all modeled market — which was more reliant on the are in this world, then Shanghai Fashion tee, is the venerable elder stateswom- by a parade of Chinese models in front of practice of exchanging gifts to maintain Week is one of these occasions,” he said. an of the event and, not surprisingly, is 700 attendees. good “guanxi,” or relationships, among On the same night as Zegna’s film pre- positive about its future. She explains According to Ferretti, the major ap- business and government associates — miere, Shanghai Tang celebrated its 20th Shanghai Fashion Week’s mission as pro- peal of Shanghai Fashion Week for her harder than its female equivalent. anniversary with a runway show and party moting Chinese designers, with the help was the opportunity to further connect As part of the mission to regain ground on the extensive grounds of the Okura of a few international names to help in- with Chinese customers, who have be- in China, head designer Stefano Pilati Garden Hotel, an Art Deco landmark. crease the event’s profile internationally. come a more regular feature in her bou- helmed a film project, called “A Rose Academy Award winner Nicole “Our aim is to help young, emerging tiques around the world. Reborn,” in collaboration with South Kidman sat front-row for the show, which talent. But at the same time, we want to “Now, more than five or 10 years ago, Korean director Chan-wook Park, and fea- featured China’s top models Liu Wen and promote fashion in a more international Shanghai is starting to be a focus of this turing Daniel Wu, which had its world pre- Du Juan, who also walked for Ferretti way, to a more international standard kind of global fashion world. Shanghai miere in Shanghai on Wednesday night. and Valli earlier in the week. and we need international brands to Fashion Week and China Fashion Week are “I think a brand like Zegna and its According to Shanghai Tang’s chair- help us to do that,” she said. “Shanghai becoming an important way to reach such a presence in China shows that a Western man, Raphael le Masne de Chermont, the is the most fashionable city in China, and large market, not just China, but also East brand can truly empathize with contem- idea for the event came about after discus- throughout the history of its development, Asia and the world,” Ferretti said. porary Chinese culture. We don’t sions with fashion week organizing com- it has accepted the most international in- “Chinese women are traveling want to seduce them to be like mittees around Asia, who bemoaned the fluence. So I think this means Shanghai often and are more and more in- us. The message [of the film] is lack of international press attention allo- can lead the trends for China, but also I terested in fashion and the luxury the opposite,” Pilati explained, cated to design coming out of the region. think for the world.” brands; this makes now the right adding that their presence at time, and I think it will be even more Shanghai Fashion Week was important in the future to have an in- more about timing than a delib- A look from A style from creased presence here.” erate strategy. Yi Ran Tian. CJ Yao. For Ferretti, as well as fellow “To be honest with you, as Italian designer Giambattista far as I’m concerned, it just Valli, showing as part of Shanghai so happened that we were Fashion Week was about the op- ready to show the movie portunity to connect to and and it’s Shanghai Fashion learn about the market Week. My awareness of here, which is increasing- Shanghai Fashion Week is ly open to buying luxury not that much.” brands that offer some- The brand’s chairman, thing high-end and unique, Paolo Zegna, however, but haven’t yet been em- was a little more gen- braced by the masses. erous in his estima- Valli spent several tion of Shanghai days meeting with cli- ents at Lane Crawford, TACON DAVE introducing his Giamba line and exhibiting the Giambattista Valli couture archives, before restaging his latest couture show at the Shanghai Exhibition Center — an imposing A look from FOR MORE, SEE Soviet-style building on the Giambattista downtown shopping street, Valli. WWD.com/ Nanjing West Road. fashion-news. “It was extremely interesting

AND ZEGNA PHOTOS BY VALLI SHANGHAI TANG, because fashion isn’t always 16 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 WWD.COM

The new Beetz Interim CEO at St. John Bottega in July 2013 from Louis Vuitton, where Veneta in By WWD STAFF he was president, South Europe, based Boston. in Milan. S T. JOHN KNITS INC. is changing At the same time, Beetz invested in management. St. John, as did Chinese company Fosun The fashion house Monday said International. Vestar Capital Partners Bernd Beetz will assume the role of continues to be the majority investor. interim chief executive officer on the “We have made tremendous prog- departure of current ceo Geoffroy van ress to further strengthen this iconic Raemdonck, who is leaving Nov. 6. brand, and on behalf of the board, wish Beetz currently is executive chairman Geoffrey the best in his future endeav- of St. John. ors,” said Beetz. He added St. John All operations will continue to re- remains well capitalized as the man- port to the current merchandising and agement team continues to expand the operations teams reporting to Beetz. A brand globally. fulltime ceo will be sought. Beetz previously was ceo of Coty St. John gave no reasons for van Inc. and prior to that ran the beauty Raemdonck’s departure. He joined and fragrance division of LVMH Moët the Irvine, Calif.-based fashion house Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Bottega Veneta Opens in Boston New Line, Positioning for Rodriguez handles sheathed in leather. Vertical By SHARON EDELSON window louvers are made from palm into that space because it had designer wood and steel, display counters have By MARC KARIMZADEH cachet. It could be a backbone for that BOTTEGA VENETA has opened a slide-out billiard-cloth presentation area that I think is going to be the next 2,500-square-foot store at 310 Boylston pads and carpets are custom-dyed New NEW YORK — Robert Rodriguez is big boom area.” Street in The Heritage on the Garden in Zealand wool. A quiet, sensuous palette moving from designer to better. The better Robert Rodriguez label Boston’s historic Back Bay district. The of matte neutrals and earth tones gives This Tuesday, One Jeanswear will be available to department and condominium, which is across from the the store a sense of privacy and sophis- Group, a division of Nine West specialty stores, with suggested retail city’s public garden, also houses retail- tication. “As Bottega Veneta continues to Holdings Inc., will unveil Robert prices from $59 to $189. Gross declined ers such as Escada, Christofle, Hermès, grow, our aim is to maintain an organic Rodriguez as a better sportswear to disclose sales projections, but said, Anne Fontaine, St. John and Exhale Spa. yet constant development path, based brand, with plans for a February “We are going to be in about 100 doors The Bottega Veneta unit will offer on a very well-balanced plan in terms of launch for spring. The collection is de- in all better department stores. Most ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, eye- both geographic expansion and invest- signed by an in-house team; the name- people in the business want big orders wear, jewelry and fragrance for men and ment, in order to reinforce overall brand sake designer, who had spearheaded and commitments as quickly as pos- women, as well as handbags for women awareness, regional balance and ulti- the brand for more than a decade, ex- sible. I want a controlled launch, with and bags for men. “I’m delighted to fi- mately provide the best possible luxury ited earlier this year when Sycamore a strong and big footprint in a limited nally be opening a boutique in Boston, retail experience,” said Marco Bizzarri, Partners acquired The Jones Group. number of stores to create a very strong a city of such history and culture,” said president of Bottega Veneta and chief ex- Jones added the Robert Rodriguez presence for the brand.” Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta creative ecutive officer of Kering’s luxury couture Collection to its portfolio in 2010. The line will launch with sports- director. “The Back Bay neighborhood and leather goods division. “I knew that there is a white space wear and the plan is to expand into a has a certain charm and intimacy that we “Until now, Bottega Veneta only had in the better department,” said Jack fuller lifestyle concept for fall 2015 with were drawn to, and once the right space a boutique in Natick and we have been Gross, chief executive officer of One jeanswear and an “athleisure compo- became available, the opportunity was looking to expand our presence with a Jeanswear Group, of the decision to re- nent,” as Gross put it. “Once we see the there. We’re confident this new boutique location in Boston for some time.” position the line. He cited opportunity momentum, we also plan to expand it offers the perfect ambience for those To celebrate the opening of the store, in the “upper part of better and lower into footwear, handbags, accessories who live in and visit Boston to immerse Bottega Veneta sponsored the opening part of contemporary. and intimate apparel.” These catego- themselves in the collections and experi- of an exhibition of Italian Renaissance “I was looking for a brand that I ries, he added, will be licensed. ence our superlative service.” sculpture at the Isabella Stewart thought would sit well within that space One Jeanswear Group’s portfolio Maier designed the store concept, Gardner museum, which runs through and met with a number of prospective also includes brands such as Gloria with its walnut tables and handcrafted Jan. 19. The exhibition features 45 sculp- brands,” he added. “I thought Robert Vanderbilt, l.e.i., Bandolino, Energie vitrines, ultrasuede-covered walls, fur- tors’ drawings with select sculptures by Rodriguez was a perfect brand to go and Code Bleu. niture upholstered in mohair and door Donatello, Michelangelo and Cellini.

L’Eclaireur Set to Open First U.S. Store in L.A. Hadida was reluctant’’ to reveal, the re- The third floor is to be used for pri- By PAULINA SZMYDKE Armand tailer will also offer custom in-store vate events. “We are in Hollywood here; Hadida software, already in place at its Paris I don’t need to tell you how tough it is to PARIS — Armand Hadida is taking a leap venues, which allows customers to find a venue for a larger group of peo- across the pond. scan L’Eclaireur’s total stock, including ple,” he noted, adding that his daughter The founder of L’Eclaireur, a French brands such as Sacai, Bottega Veneta, Meryl, who has served as assistant buyer chain of specialty stores Hadida creat- Paul Harnden, Dries Van Noten, Greg at the family chain, would be in charge of ed with his wife Martine more than 30 Lauren, Haider Ackermann and Junya managing the new unit. years ago, is setting up his first U.S. out- Watanabe, in search of a desired item, Hadida said he is expanding because post in March. which will then be duly delivered. it’s the only way to grow in today’s retail The three-story building at 450 “The idea is to create a bridge be- environment, and because he refuses to Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles’ tween our boutique’s heritage, which is a stand still. “I’m telling you, there is no design district will be the retailer’s only multibrand concept and our e-business,” [financial] crisis. It’s a crisis induced by brick-and-mortar unit outside of France, explained the Frenchman, praising the the absence of ideas and innovation. We following the closing of a Japan unit in advantages on both sides. “Territorial have to move forward at the same speed 2010 triggered by irreconcilable differ- exclusivity is hereby finished; it reduces as the world of technology,” he said, not- ences with its local partner. “I’ve been holding out on this since 1981, when it was first proposed to me, I’ve been holding out on this since 1981, when it but back then I had to say I didn’t know the U.S. market or its retail culture,” was first proposed to me, but back then I had to say Hadida said, noting that today, 30 percent of his clientele is American. Never mind the Californians’ wide- I didn’t know the U.S. market or its retail culture. spread predilection for jeans and DOMINIQUE MAITRE T-shirts, said Hadida, whose long-term — ARMAND HADIDA, L’ECLAIREUR vision led him to become the first mul- PHOTO BY tibrand retailer to introduce Oscar de la Renta to the French market at a the other, and the L.A. venue is expected inventory risks and gets rid of what I call ing: “Our sales are increasing vis-à-vis time when local monobrand stores set to build on that tradition. “The customer the ‘cancer of retail,’ that is sales.” our record years.” the tone. is king today. He is not only highly solicit- Italian architect Vincenzo de Cotiis is The concept store in West Hollywood “Our customer is very niche. The U.S. ed, but extremely well informed. He has to design the 6,460-square-foot boutique is not the retailer’s only U.S. venture. is our largest market online. Let’s not no obligation to stick to his usual list of in a building previously occupied by a Hadida, who is also the artistic director kid ourselves: In the U.S., we find pos- addresses, if these do not evolve. And so florist and the David Jones brand. It will of the Tranoï trade show in Paris, told sibilities that no longer exist in France,” the offer in L.A. will be different because be “neither a boutique nor a gallery, but WWD the fair’s first New York edition is he observed. it needs to be different,” he said. something different,” asserted Hadida, slated to kick off in 2015. In Paris, where L’Eclaireur operates Apart from a handpicked selection suggesting a mix of lifestyle, art, design The fair is to run from Feb. 21 through seven locations, no boutique resembles of women’s and men’s brands, which and fashion. 23 at the Tunnel, a former’’ nightclub. WE’RE HIRING. (YES, YOU READ THIS CORRECTLY)

– WWD Deputy Fashion Editor – WWD Beauty Sales Director – WWD Beijing-Shanghai or Hong Kong Reporter – WWD Sales Coordinator LA – WWD Street Style Reporter/Editor – WWD Sales Integrated Marketing & Research Specialist – WWD Eye Reporter NY – WWD Digital Sales Account Executive – WWD Eye Reporter NY/LA – WWD Creative Specialist, Advertising Sales – WWD Accessories Reporter/Editor – Summits Attendee Sales Manager – WWD Brazil Beauty & Fashion Reporter – Summits & Events Sponsorship Sales Director – WWD Silicon Valley-San Francisco Reporter – Brand Strategy & Social Media Director (Fashion-Tech-Commerce) – Summits & Events Experience Director – WWD Activewear Swimwear Reporter – Summits & Events Marketing Director – WWD Men’s Wear Reporter/Editor – Event Creative Director – WWD West Coast Fashion Editor – Summits & Events Manager – WWD Copy Editor – Designer InfoGraphic Specialist – WWD Wearable Tech Reporter – Sales Marketing Designer – Financial Analyst – Summits & Events Lead Designer – FN Business Reporter – Summits Art & Design Director – FN Athletic Reporter – Assistant Manager, Consumer Marketing – FN Europe Editor – Director Corporate Sales, Consumer Marketing – FN Admin/Edit Assistant

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Jessie J performing. afternoon. “We see this also a to discuss this print with local bit in our sales in this market. editors but their reactions Before, there was a bit of pleasantly surprised her. resistance on anything that “There was this enthusiasm was too fashion-y. Instead now every time I took out this it seems, based on what I have Japanese print so this was been able to observe at least a surprise for me,” said the by touring around, there is a designer, clad in a ruffled desire to be a bit more trendy leather shirt and slim pants. in a matter of speaking.” “Probably they saw that this Like it has for countless was a reinterpretation in a other designers, Japan has casual style.” served as an inspiration Similarly, the fruits of this source for Giannini’s creative trip might appear in future work. During her 2009 trip collections. to Japan, she met with a “Every trip is an experience, 103-year-old kimono artisan so it’s good to steal with your and Kabuki costumer and eyes…seeing the people that took numerous pictures walk down the street for me is of various obis — always the best the belts that hold experience in Taking It to Tokyo kimonos together. Tokyo,” she said. Those photos served “There is really a as the starting point studied approach to GUCCI MOVED INTO Tokyo’s The event, which featured program to support students in for a patchwork their look that for storied sumo stadium Saturday performances by English singer the Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima jacket she me is absolutely night to celebrate the 50th Jessie J as well as a high-school prefectures and Giannini and did for her fascinating.” anniversary of its Japan business choir from Tokyo, drew some of di Marco visited with students Seventies- Elsewhere, with a gala dinner benefitting the Gucci’s top customers as well taking part in the program. influenced Giannini said National Federation of UNESCO Japanese celebrities such as Making her first trip to spring she picked up Associations. former soccer star and fashion Japan in five years, Giannini collection. a couple of party fixture Hidetoshi Nakata said she had enjoyed Having vintage Gucci and actress-singer Emi Takei. reacquainting herself with heard that bags in Tokyo Emi Takei Other highlights of the the country and its culture, Japanese — including evening included a video engaging in some people people often a small flap message from reigning sumo watching, vintage shopping express bag and a sack champ Hakuho Sho and a and bookstore browsing distaste style — to add dinner menu drawing on the around the city. Among her to the company’s culinary traditions of both observations, she said the city FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE archive. Japan and Italy featuring seems more “open” than her “So many sea bream sashimi and previous visits, including her WWD.com/eye. things were made ravioli with black truffles. first trip to Japan 12 years ago. over the years The following day, Gucci “Japanese women, for that there are still creative director Frida example, that before were a for Western items circulating Giannini and chief executive bit more conservative…are designers that are not in the Hidetoshi Patrizio di Marco traveled to all more relaxed in the way appropriating archive,” she Nakata

YUKIE MIYAZAKI Sendai, one of the areas hit they dress; they risk more Japanese said. “So when and Frida hardest by the 2011 tsunami. than they did a few years ago,” motifs, she I find them, I Giannini In 2012, Gucci and UNESCO she said during an interview said she was a always buy them.”

PHOTOS BY created a scholarship at the Park Hyatt Saturday little nervous — AMANDA KAISER

color of choice for actor John Lithgow who is known to send opening-night bouquets. His Avenue B Blooms costar Glenn Close in Edward Albee’s “A Delicate Balance,” THE GRASS is definitely not greener gift of 250 long-stem “Pink Floyd” roses is presumably next in line to on Avenue B than it is in Tudor City, for a new mother from an undisclosed get one, when their show opens but that is where Michael George has designer rested on the shop’s counter Nov. 20.) Vera Wang, another planted its new shop. last month. At-home holiday tree- fan of all-white arrangements, Eight months after the death of trimming is another tough-to-top service. has added purple and fuchsia floral designer Michael George, his wife Known for monolithic sculptural to the mix to reflect her most Lisa has found a downtown address displays, Michael George amassed an recent runway show, Fagan for the company that bears his name. enviable portfolio in the freewheeling said. “Designers are pretty With location no longer being the Eighties with clients like the Rainbow consistent. It’s a brand and a be-all, end-all, George knew Room, Lutèce, Mr. Chow and Ian label.” Lisa George added. that such clients as Alexander Schrager’s hotels. Lisa George Working as a Betsey Wang, Barneys New York, recalled working on Steve Wynn’s Johnson publicist in the early Ralph Lauren, Gucci, Prada, eye grand opening of the $1.8 billion Nineties, George, who had Ferragamo, Vera Wang and Bellagio in 1998. “We came as a studied landscape design, Yves Saint Laurent are only an four-person staff with scissors was eager to pursue that path. e-mail or speed dial away. Most in hands. It was a weeklong She started interning for the will never step foot in the relatively production working with the 75-person floral designer, thanks to an sparse space where the five-person inhouse floral crew and using four introduction from their mutual team weave in and out of each other’s refrigerated trucks. friend Christian Francis Roth. way with ease. During a recent visit, It was an only-in- Inside “The minute I met him it was amidst the faint sent of pitch-perfect Vegas event. There Lisa George Michael effortless communication. I roses, staffers joked about their new were floor-to- George’s just got him. He was an old neighborhood’s contrasting sounds — ceiling Caravaggio Avenue B hippie, the perfect rough- after-school laughter, the Good Humor pictures projected store. around-the-edges sweet [kind ice cream truck’s music, foul-mouthed onto the walls of] kid that I grew up with in passers-by and battling spouses. In and Cirque du New York City,” she said of her search of a 10-year lease, George said Soleil performers accounts as Eleven late husband. “But then he had this the rat-a-tat block between East 12th escorted guests to Madison Park. elegant fashion side, which I got, too.” and 13th Streets was a unanimous vote their seats. The George pointed to Now she only has to glance at her after 15 years in Tudor City. “We asked floral budget was The High Line’s Piet arms to be reminded of him — her ourselves, ‘Where do we want to be?’ a quarter-million Oudolf gardens as a thistle and wildflowers tattoos used ink And we found this neighborhood,” she and we wound up source of inspiration. made from his ashes. His photo and a said. “We wanted to be in a place with saving them money. Office manager vase with his ashes are displayed in the great coffee.” They gave us a very Tom Fagan knows back room where the staff practice such B-Cup, Ninth Street Espresso and large fee just to A-list celebrities’ “Michaelisms” as “Don’t fight with the Raul’s Candy Store (a neighborhood bring our knives out-of-town aliases flowers. Every flower has a place, every bodega since 1976) can provide the and show up.” and bouquet styles flower has a space.” much-needed caffeine blasts for George In the wake of inside out, as well as Lead designer Gaudencio Contreras, and her employees who wheel out the 2008 economic designers’ DNA. No- who was Michael George’s protégé, is 30 floral deliveries each day and 60 fallout, floral fail white is the first more than content arranging flowers for during fashion week. (More than 1,000 design has gone and only choice for the cut-throat world of fashion. He said, THOMAS IANNACCONE roses were carted off to various editors more pure, simple Kors and Calvin Klein “You’re never angry working in a flower compliments of Michael Kors, Calvin and organic, true Inc., as well as the shop. Every day you walk in and smile.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Klein Inc. and others.) A gargantuan to such prestigious PHOTOS BY person. (It is also the WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2014 19 WWD.COM

Van Der Beek, Trina Turk, Janni Turtiainen, Katherine Roberts- The auction is to be led by Barbara Kruger, Catharine Wood, Fiona O’Neil, Andrea Jiapei Li, Pierre Bergé & Associés in Soros, Liane Weintraub and Peter Do and Ximon Lee. conjunction with Sotheby’s FASHION SCOOPS company dancers like The capsule collection by auction house, assisted by Nathan Makolandra and this year’s winner, Eddy Anemian, experts Stéphane Clavreuil, Benoît TOLEDANO, CONSTANT BOARDER: Stephanie Amurao were went on sale in select H&M Forgeot and Michel Scognamillo. Sidney Toledano has been elected Natalie Portman in Dior and Benjamin among those who went stores worldwide last week. Bergé began his time in to the board of trustees of Millepied in Yves Saint Laurent. to the penthouse of the — JOELLE DIDERICH Paris as a dealer in antiquarian the Solomon R. Guggenheim Cooper Design Space books. His life was threaded Foundation. Toledano’s dance for a post-performance PHILADELPHIA STORY: with literary and artistic card is seemingly never full as celebratory meal. Nicole Miller has unveiled companionships, starting his other posts include being Between bites, Van a signature dress for with Jean Giono, Jean president and chief executive Der Beek and his wife the Philadelphia 76ers’ Cocteau and Bernard officer of Christian Dior Couture; reminisced about their Sixers Dancers 2014-15 Buffet before his encounter ceo and board member of Holding own ties to the dance season. The designer with Yves Saint Laurent. Christian Dior SA, and board world. “I danced from five said the hook-up works The first sale will member of Fendi International years old to high school,” well with the tag include 100 literary works SA. He’s also a board member of said the Mrs. “And James’ line for her latest ad spanning 600 years, the Institut Français de la Mode mother owned and ran campaign: “ Yo u don’t including works in their and the Comité Colbert, where GRAVES a gymnastics studio, so have to wear a suit to original languages by he is also president of the Public AMY James can do the splits feel strong.” Leo Tolstoy, Fyodor Authorities Commission. He’s BY actually.” Miller liked that Dostoyevsky, William on the management committee “Not anymore,” he said. the Sixers’ dancers Shakespeare, James of the Chambre Syndicale de PHOTO — LINDZI SCHARF are different ages, and Joyce, Edgar Allan Poe, la Haute Couture and on the could see, it was movies. It was come from such diverse Walt Whitman and Gertrude executive board of the Fédération the movies of Fred Astaire, of MAKING THE CUT: Hennes & backgrounds as finance, Stein. The collection also Française de la Couture and Gene Kelly, of Busby Berkeley,” Mauritz AB has selected a short medicine and education. includes the first edition of president of the Chambre he said. “It was those dance list of 24 aspiring designers from Her fully functional jersey “Treasure Island” dating Syndicale de la Mode Masculine. films that actually drew me to 37 fashion schools worldwide for frock was unveiled in her back to 1883 sent by Robert For the past two years, Dior deciding to become a dancer.” the fourth edition of its annual Philadelphia boutique Louis Stevenson to his friend has sponsored the Guggenheim Portman, who met Millepied H&M Design Award, due to be earlier this week but William Ernest Henley. International Gala in New York. while filming her Oscar-winning revealed in January. Only eight the Sixers’ official NBA The catalogue is due out — JESSICA IREDALE “Black Swan,” was in the will make it through to the next season won’t tip off until Sept. 15, 2015. audience herself. She arrived round, showing their collections Thursday. — LAURE GUILBAULT PROJECT PILÉ: “Maybe I owe an hour earlier without fuss to an international jury headed — ROSEMARY more to L.A. than people know,” or fanfare in a demure look by by Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s FEITELBERG Nicole Miller’s A NEW COOPER UNION: said Benjamin Millepied. The Dior and snacked on popcorn creative head of design, in design for the Ralph Rucci will be doing choreographer is more well from the concession stand. London in November. BOOKISH TYPE: Five Philadelphia the honors for this fall’s known these days as Mr. Natalie “It’s great to get to be The winner will walk away years after selling 76ers’ dancers. installment of the Cooper Portman, but he’s also the founder reminded how incredible your with a collaboration with the the art collection he Hewitt Smithsonian of L.A. Dance Project and on husband is,” she said. “And the Swedish high-street retailer, assembled together with Yves Design Museum’s Design by Saturday night, the company dancers are incredible....I come a show at Stockholm Fashion Saint Laurent, Pierre Bergé is Hand series. The designer’s staged a performance at the into rehearsals regularly, but Week, a cash prize of 50,000 casting off his personal library Nov. 4 keynote lecture, which recently restored The it’s so different seeing euros, or $63,300 at current for auction in a series of sales, will feature a discussion with Theatre at Ace Hotel. FOR MORE it live on stage. I feel exchange, and a mentorship. starting in December 2015. deputy director Brooke Hodge, As Millepied SCOOPS, SEE very lucky to have this The 24 semifinalists are The collection, boasting more will be held in the museum’s stood on a stage that be part of my life.” Clara Jungman Malmquist, Laure than 1,000 manuscripts and Great Hall. Attendees will be was once part of the WWD.com. After intermission, Severac, Magdalena Brozda, Sarah books from the 15th to the 20th among the first to check out the United Artists movie Millepied previewed Effenberger, Simone Schmidt centuries, will be the subject of Upper East Side museum’s $91 theater, he described his latest, a piece Adrian, Elina Määttänen, Juyan Zhou, seven thematic sales at Paris’ million renovations before its how he got into dancing. set to Philip Glass’ score for Francesca Reberschegg, Hiroshi auction house Hôtel Drouot. A Dec. 12 reopening. There will “Eventually I started to the 1985 cult film “Mishima: Shintani, In Seo, Yumiko Sei, Youn- selection of lots from the first be a series of workshops for all dance and because I lived in A Life in Four Chapters,” and Chan Chung, Yiyu Chen, Andreas sale is to go on display in fall ages emphasizing the role of some small town in France, it received a standing ovation. Ekelöf, Leonard Kocic, Charlotte 2015 in New York, London, hand craftsmanship in design wasn’t live performances that I Laura Mulleavy, James and Kimberly Knowles, Graham Fan, James Kelly, Geneva and Moscow. at the Cooper Hewitt Design Center on Central Park North. Rucci, who won the museum’s National Design Award for fashion in 2008, is headlining the third round of the Design by Hand program, which is sponsored by Van Cleef & Arpels. The museum’s director Caroline Baumann said, “It is empowering for the participants to explore how they might apply their individual, personal approach to the creative process. We are greatly honored to welcome LJUNG Ralph Rucci, National Design Award winner, and his design CHARLI

BY team to Cooper Hewitt for what promises to be an inspiring

PHOTOS week of programs for all ages.” Semifinalists of the H&M Design Award with Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s creative head of design. — R . F.

will develop and manage and the collective intuition, lead digital sales for the Media A new general manager of MEMO PAD HMI’s global digital products leadership and experience division. Valentino, who will digital video will be named portfolio, including Web sites, of our new hires is key to report to both CNE president shortly by Ostroff. MORE HEARST DIGITAL: Hearst mobile and ad products, digital accelerating our strategy,” Ellis Dawn Ostroff and Menicheschi, “Demand for premium Magazines International is editions and apps. offered. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD will partner with senior vice digital content has never been shifting its gaze to digital, A former manager of Getty president of sales strategy greater,” said Santarpia. “I adding three new roles to the Images’ music division, Lee MORE MOVES AT CONDÉ: Josh Stinchcomb. Stinchcomb look forward to expanding business side. will oversee the creation and Restructuring at Condé Nast oversees brand-related efforts, the scope and depth of Condé The publisher said it has distribution of digital content continues, with the company including advertising and Nast’s digital experiences to appointed Emily Jipson as vice in order to grow HMI’s Web and homing in on its digital and revenue partnerships. take advantage of the current president of product, Melinda mobile products. media teams. The firm also said it opportunity and the trends in Lee as vice president of content Chévez, who comes from Under Edward Menicheschi, appointed Fred Santarpia for the the marketplace.” and audience development, and Condé Nast, where he worked chief marketing officer and newly created role of executive Santarpia, who helped Bernardo Chévez as vice president as director of engineering, president of the Media Group, president and chief digital launch 14 channels on video of technology. is charged with planning, the company is restructuring its officer. The former executive hub The Scene, came to Condé All three executives designing, developing and digital sales group. vice president and chief digital Nast two years earlier from will report to chief digital managing HMI’s digital platform Two weeks ago, the firm laid officer of CNE is in charge of Vevo, where he served as officer of Hearst Magazines applications and services. off more than 50 in his group. building and executing the general manager. International, Gary Ellis. “To maximize reach to Now, the Media group adds Lisa company’s “enterprise-wide The changes in structure In her new role, Jipson, consumers around the world, Valentino, who will expand her strategy” across digital, mobile mean Joe Simon, chief Yahoo Finance’s former head HMI has intensified its focus on role as chief revenue officer at and emerging platforms, the technology officer, is out, the of global product management, digital innovation and growth, Condé Nast Entertainment to company said Monday. company said. — A.S. #GLOBALPLAYER

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