THUMB DIRECTORY TAB and , as New 383 . directo- published by

(AA; www.aatravel.co.nz) © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © (www.jasons.com)

Jasons Holiday Parks & Campgrounds Holiday Parks AutomobileAssociation BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE BOOK YOUR STAY and rec- accommodation reviews For more ommendations by Lonely Planet authors, You’ll check out lonelyplanet.com/hotels. find the true, insider lowdown on the best thorough and places to stay. Reviews are independent. Best of all, you can book online. Visitor information centres provide reams reams provide Visitor information centres If you’re travelling during peak tour- during peak travelling If you’re B&Bs & Guesthouses the the well as the & Apartments Lodges Motor Motels, ries produced by Bed (B&B) accommodation in and breakfast across NZ, homes is a growth industry private in rural cities, popping up in the middle of coast- isolated of hamlets and on stretches in everything from line, with rooms on offer owned manors suburban bungalows to stately for generations. by one family cover that low-season abound. When rates cover accommodation their feet, not run off they’re are that walk-in rates offer often operators – ask rates significantly below advertised in the day. Also seelate the big-name global (www.wotif.com, accommodation websites etc) www.hotels.com www.lastminute.com, deals. last-minute for in local accommodation information, often of detailing facilities and up- folders the form of bookings make prices; many can also to-date flick through Alternatively, on your behalf. accommo- widely available NZ’s free, one of the annual including dation directories, Guide Accommodation Zealand ist seasons, in advance. book your bed well (and is most in demand Accommodation holidays during the summer at its priciest) at Easter; January; from Christmas to late towns like in snowy resort and during winter Queenstown. At other times, weekday rates (except rates than weekend may be cheaper cities, where in larger in business-style hotels certainly applies), and you’ll dis- the reverse

Accommodation listings in this guidebook Discount Cards Discount Cards 390 Accommodation 383 Accommodation Embassies & Consulates Embassies & Consulates & Events Festivals 391 Food Travellers Gay & Lesbian 391 Holidays 392 Insurance Access Internet 390 Matters Legal Maps 393 Money 394 391 390 Post 395 Shopping 395 396 Telephone 397 Time Tourist Information with Disabilities Travellers 392 399 Visas 393 Women Travellers Work 399 398 398 399 Activities387 Business Hours 388 Children ChartsClimate 388 Customs Dangers & Annoyances 387 389 388

ACCOMMODATION while we’ve given the top-end tag to any double given while we’ve generally $150. Price ranges room costing over Here by 20% to 25% in Christchurch. increase accommodation at up toyou will find budget between $100 and$100 per double, midrange than $200. $200, and top-end rooms more range if it costs roughly $80 to $150 per double,range are ordered by budget from cheapest to most cheapest from by budget ordered are a place as designate We generally expensive. up to $65 per single or $80 if it charges budget qualifies as mid- Accommodation per double. and hostels that range in character from clean- in character that range and hostels party-prone. tirelessly to living and relaxed facility-laden hotels, comfortably uniform comfortably uniform facility-laden hotels, campsites units, beautifully situated motel Across the South Island, you can bed down at with history, night in guesthouses that creak

CONTENTS Directory DIRECTORY hosts continuetobecheeky-as-a-Kea, charge upwardsof $300perdouble. Some (per double)bracket, someplaces though tor information centres. available online, andatbookshopsvisi- Bed &Breakfast Book .bed-and-breakfast.co.nz) and book. you of theroomrate. Checkconditionsbefore you’ll forfeit yourdeposit plusthebalance ofcel withinaweek yourarrivaldate and and expensive cancellation policies–iecan- least amonthinadvance,andenforce strict B&Bs demandbookingsanddeposits at a bedroomintheirhome. Many upmarket charging heftypricesforwhatis,inessence, packages. (DB&B) guests andadvertise dinner,bedandbreakfast restaurants are limited, maycookdinnerfor locations orwithinthesmallertownswhere sages. SomeB&Bhosts,especially inisolated cooked baconandsau- mealincludingeggs, bread orastomach-loading or muffins) fruit,home-baked (addyoghurt, continental’ (cereal,nental’ toast,tea orcoffee), ‘hearty Yourmorningmealmaybe‘conti- houses. B&Bs, itmayornotfeature atguest- rooms. self-contained areguesthouses reasonable fancyandoffer impersonal atmosphere of manymotels. Some bypeoplewhoeschewplaces patronised the hotels,‘private’ mostlylow-key (unlicensed) 384 The Tariffs are typicallyinthe$120 to $180 areGuesthouses cheap, usuallyspartan, Although breakfastAlthough isincludedatgenuine „ „ „ „ „ „ PRACTICALITIES

Watch one of the four national commercial TV stations (TV One, TV2, TVNZ 6and Maori TVNZ One,TV2, stations(TV WatchoneofthefournationalcommercialTV Fornews,leafthroughChristchurch’s adaptor(thesameasinAustralia; Useathree-pin different adaptors)to toBritishthree-pin Videos youbuyorwatchwillbebasedonthePAL system –thesamesystem usedin Forweightsandmeasures, NZusesthemetricsystem. Tune FM Nationalfor current intoRadio affairsandConcert forclassicalandjazz(seewww IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodation DIRECTORY enough...). (www.hauraki.co.nz) cranksouttheclassicrock(toomuchSplitEnzisbarelyHauraki .radionz.co.nz forfrequencies). FM Kiwi (www.kiwifm.co.nz) plays100%NZmusic;Radio .stuff.co.nz. Television) (www.skytv.co.nz). orthesubscriber-only SkyTV supply(230VAC,plug yourselfintotheelectricity 50Hz). Australia, theUKandmostofEurope. B&B Directoryof NewZealand (www.bnb.co.nz) are New Zealand (www The

Press orthe .govt.nz) can beimpressively centralornearlakes, from theaction,butinsmallertownsthey cities holidayparksare usuallyafairway roomsoften feature.and gamesTV In equipped communalkitchens, diningareas units thatare often calledtouristflats.Well- (dorm rooms),cabinsandself-contained and unpowered sites, cheap bunkrooms parks’, slumberingpeacefullyinpowered verge uponNZ’shugely popular‘holiday drivers alike con- andcampervan Campers Camping &CampervanParks get some dirtbeneath theirfingernails at side of NZ life, withvisitors encouraged to Farmstays openthe doorontheagricultural Farmstays see Tramping (p76). be reached onfoot.Formore information, backcountry huts,mostof which canonly the accessible campinggroundsmanaged by parks, headforoneof the250-plus,vehicle- locationssuchless-developed asnational people. two sites, huts and cabinsare forcampervan thepriceswe’veerwise, listed forcampsites, $50 to$100perdouble. Unlessnoted oth- unit accommodationnormallyranges from sites are acoupleof dollars more. Cabin/ with children powered charged half-price; $12and$16peradult,is usuallybetween beaches, rivers and forests. If you’llgladlyswapfacilitiesforwilder, costofThe nightly holiday-parkcamping Department ofConservation Department Otago DailyTimes Otago . DOC alsolooks after hundreds. DOC of , orcheckoutwww lonelyplanet.com

(DOC; www.doc DIRECTORY 385 03- 0800 278 % %

(HI; www.hihos

(YHA; (WWOOF;

has beenaround Hostelling International Youth Hostels Association network, also known as International International network, also known as YHA hostels provide reliable, basic accom- reliable, provide hostels YHA NZ’s There’s often a maximum-stay period (usually often There’s supply all bed hostels to seven days). YHA five linen so you don’t need to bring a sleeping already an HI member in your own country, already you to use entitles your membership NZ hos- a membership have If you don’t already tels. NZ buy one at major card from home, you can including $40 for 12 months, for hostels YHA usually are a $14 phonecard. Nightly charges for members. between per person $20 and $40 at a cost members non-YHA also take Hostels per night. an extra $3 of modation for individuals, families and groups in dorms (bunk rooms, usually with four to single, a supply of six beds) and most also have twin and double rooms, sometimes with bath- 24-hour access, cooking rooms. They have with a TV,facilities, a communal area laundry offices. travel hostels, facilities and, in larger difference. Pick up a membership card from card up a membership Pick difference. one sent overseas have or hostel, any member see postage; for $50 (including for website the to according hostel details). each rates BBH figure percentage using a feedback, traveller that supposedly least you how good (or at tells is. hostel each how popular) www.yha.co.nz) 299, 03-379 9970; in 51 prime NZ and has hostels for 75 years Island). The YHA locations (28 on the South the is part of tels.com) If you’re (IYHF). Federation Youth Hostel . Membership of this popular, well-established Willing Workers on Organic Farms Willing Workers on Organic book- pro- , which , which Budget Backpacker (FHINZ; www.fhinz.co.nz) 03-355 6218; www.ruralholidays

% (

DIRECTORY •• Accommodation 03-379 3014; www.bbh.co.nz) %

(BBH;

BBH Backpacker Accommodation

A two-year or two people trav- membership costs $40 if you join within NZ (for one person, under started employing travellers have One word of caution: it seems that some hostels lists farmstayshomestays and through- 544 9890; www.wwoof.co.nz; PO Box 1172, Nelson 7040) 544 9890; www.wwoof.co.nz; WWOOFING If you don’t mind getting your hands dirty, around NZ involves an economical way of travelling doing some voluntary work as a member of international organisation (which has representatives in Africa, Asia, North America, Europe and North and Asia, Europe America, in Africa, (which has representatives organisation international farms, market and permaculture organic of book listing many hundreds you a scores Australia) industries across the country. Down on the gardens and other environmentally sound cottage food, accommodation and some hands- farm, in exchange for a hard day’s work, owners provide to arrange your Contact owners a week or two beforehand farm farming experience. on organic – don’t turn up unannounced! or hostel stay, as you would for a hotel costs $45. You should be part of a Working your book sent overseas elling together); to have immigration departmentHoliday Scheme (p399) when you visit NZ, as the considers wwoofers to be working. any of the benefits (not to membership or providing the name of wwoofing, without requiring farm). It’s a vague kind mention the lack of an organic of exploitation, and probably harmless, misnomer. but it’s a definite Farm Helpers in NZ Helpers Farm Hostels let. Non-members pay an extra $2 to $4 per let. Non-members the charge night, though owners not all hostel greater than the rates advertised in the annual advertised than the rates greater (free) you to stay at a cost no at member hostels has around 370 hostels on its books, including has around 370 hostels costs homestays and farmstays. Membership $45, including a $20 phonecard, and entitles NZ’s biggest hostel group is hostel NZ’s biggest Hostels HOSTEL ORGANISATIONS the big cities. Hostel bed prices listed through- bed prices listed the big cities. Hostel rates. non-membership the out this book are homestay-style affairs with a handful of beds beds homestay-style affairs with a handful of with scuffed and facades hotels to refurbished you’ll find in the towering modern structures The South Island is packed to the rafters rafters to the The South Island is packed ranging from small, hostels, with backpacker .co.nz) its website. out the country on exchange for four to six hours work per day. work per for four to six hours exchange Rural Holidays NZ duces a booklet ($25) that lists around 190 ($25) that lists around duces a booklet lodging in farms throughout NZ providing ally ranging from $80 to $120. Some farms from $80 to $120. Some ally ranging you can fix separate where cottages have low-cost, offer while others your own food, accommodation. backpacker-style shared, orchards and dairy, sheep and cattle farms. and cattle sheep and dairy, orchards B&B gener- widely, with can vary Costs lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY modation isthehumblepub. As isoften the The leastexpensive formof NZhotel accom- Hotels &Motels ine traveller andnota bedless neighbour. try anotherhostel orinsistthatyou’re agenu- If youencounter such discrimination,either overseas travellers, typicallyinner-city places. try, bewarnedthatsomehostels onlyadmit cilities). Somealsohave space fora few tents. double room(usuallywithshared bathroomfa- to $50forasingleand$70twinor typically charge $20to$28foradormbed,$38 themselves ‘unsuitable for children’. ily, note thatanumberof hostels designate Iftravellingyour expectations. withyourfam- atmosphere andfacilitiescorrespond with before handingover thecashtoensure the if possible,check outyouraccommodation formula, butwithindividualitycomesrisk: tour bookings.Thisisusuallyasuccessful and themenights and kayaks,shuttle buses, breakfasts, free of DVDs,spapools,use bikes while others buryyouinextrassuch asfree avoidance of noisybusgroupsof backpackers lazy gardens,personable management and petitors: somepromote low-key ambience, tiate theirpropertiesfromclubbycom- impressive rate. Owners tryhardtodifferen- tels, hatching themacrossbothislandsatan NZ isanincubatorforindependenthos- INDEPENDENT HOSTELS aplenty. opportunities cleandorms,girls-onlyareasExpect andparty WanakaandChristchurch.Queenstown, a newish chain withSouthIslandhostels in larger agencies dealingin backpacker travel. (www.vipbackpackers.com), atVIPhostels orat count onaccommodation.Youcanjoinonline month membership entitlingyoutoa$1dis- America. Foraround$38you’llreceive a12- Fiji, Australia,southernAfrica,Europeand tion withalarge networkof hostels innearby ist spots.VIPisaninternational organisa- hostels, mainlyinthecitiesandmajor tour- your pocket for on-the-road reference. their activities etc).Stuff hostels andmemberdiscounts(transport, & DiscountGuide bag. Theannual 386 If you’re aKiwitravelling inyour owncoun- Independent backpacker establishments Base Backpackers VIP Backpackers IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodation DIRECTORY

(www.vip.co.nz) YHA NewZealand Hostel

booklet details allKiwi bookletdetails (www.basebackpackers.com) (www.basebackpackers.com) Backpacker Map represents many are in rather thanthecollective complexof rooms– Kiwis refer totheactualroomasa‘motel’, Some –pricesvarywithstandard. fridge, TV) have similarfacilities(tea- andcoffee-making, décorisoften(though mired inthe‘80s) and on theedge of towns.Mostare modernish just outsideCBDs,orskulkingbyhighways tend tobesquatstructuresThese congregating $80and$160fordoublerooms. ing between motels and‘motorlodges’,low-rise charg- mean youwon’thave to pay these. book, butdiscountsandspecialdealsoften vertised rates) forsuch this placesthroughout opulence. Wequote ‘rackrates’ (official ad- and/orhistoric their modcons,snappyservice tels, allof which charge aheftypremium for and architecturally-splendorous boutiqueho- international chains,star resort complexes $40/60is the hall),though more common. little as$30/50(withashared bathroomdown cheapest costas pubs,singles/doublesmight Inthecould beinforsomesleeplessness. –you band crankingoutthetunesthatnight the endof check theweek, whetherthere’s a If you’re renting aroomabove apubtowards avoided, especiallybywomentravelling solo. ers are grotty,ramshackleplacesthatare best of character andlocalcharacters, whileoth- elsewhere, someofcase NZ’soldpubsare full and holiday houses iswww.holidayhomes and holiday houses thing from$120to $400 a double. nature-surrounded topayany- plots.Expect and erect luxuriouscottages onbeautiful current trend istothrowrusticitythewind bungalow. self-contained or which isn’tbadforawholehouse night, at atime. Pricesare typically$80to$130per some are onlyavailable foroneortwo nights handy forlonger in a region, stays although areas, often inisolated locations.Theycanbe tages thatcanberented inruralandcoastal cot- are‘cribs’. These simpleself-contained andSouthlandthey’rein Otago knownas single menashuntingandfishinghideouts); (short for‘bachelor’ astheywere often by used The basicKiwiholidayhomeiscalleda‘bach’ Rental Accommodation tonight’. full to,‘Sorry,ourmotel is asopposed tonight’, hear,‘Sorry,ourmotelsso youmight are full NZ’s townshave aglutof nondescript, A goodwebsite tohelpyoufind baches For more upmarket the holidayhouses, At theotherendof thehotel scaleare five- lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY

New 387 website. Banks normally open from 9.30am to Banks normally open from 9.30am to The average green fee for an 18-hole course for an 18-hole course fee green The average Note that if you bring your own rods bring your own rods that if you Note interested in guided fishing trips, see fishing in guided the interested until 9pm or later in cities. Dairies (corner until 9pm or later (small supermarkets) and superettes stores) most shops. close than later 4.30pm Monday to Friday (some city branches also open on Saturday mornings). Post offices local sailing clubs and ask if you can help local sailing clubs and ask if you can help in local competitions. Otherwise, there crew who allow you sailing operators plenty of are to just laze around on deck or play a more Anau (Te The southern lakes hands-on role. good places and Wakatipu) and Nelson are some wind in your sails. Go to www to get for details. .yachtingnz.org.nz BUSINESS HOURS Most shops and businesses open their doors at 9am and close Monday to Friday, at 5.30pm and either 12.30pm or 5pm on Saturday. Late-night shopping (until 9pm) happens in and/or Friday cities on Thursday the larger nights; Sunday trading is the norm in most usu- are big towns and cities. Supermarkets ally open from 8am until at least 7pm, often popular courses include Clearwater, outside include Clearwater, popular courses Downs, in the high Terrace Christchurch; and Millbrook, near country near Methven; Queenstown. The Hills course in Arrowtown proclaims itself the NZ Golf Open’. ‘Home to – can’t play there is that you The only catch only member! owner is the the millionaire to $50, though from $30 pri- usually ranges a substantial amount can charge resorts vate out information check For more more. www.nzgolf.org.nz. Sailing Surrounded by sea, pro- NZ has a habit of mariners. the world’s best ducing some of racing, try visiting on yacht keen If you’re Zealand Professional Fishing Guides AssociationZealand Fishing Professional (www.nzpfga.com) by be treated to and tackle, they may have officials,NZ quarantine they’re especially if cane as such natural materials made with or feathers. Golf per capita golf courses than NZ has more 400 among over any other country, and some magnificently situ- are there courses On the South Island, fairways and greens. ated DIRECTORY •• Activities

The South Island’s cold ocean waters, es- The South Island’s cold ocean waters, A far more sedate approach is to jump in a is to sedate approach A far more

A fishing permit is required to fish in in to fish A fishing permit is required covering recreational fishing in NZ. If you’re in NZ. If you’re fishing recreational covering (p398) for details. is cov- Other fishy business website a huge at www.fishing.net.nz, ered day, month or season. Consult visitor infor- the DOC or one of offices mation centres inland waters. Sold at sport shops, permits Sold at sport shops, inland waters. valid for a and are particular regions cover Island; Kurow, in the Waitaki Valley, North Island; Kurow, in the Waitaki Valley, and trout. Otago, is good for salmon Kaikoura Peninsula offers good surfcasting. good surfcasting. offers Peninsula Kaikoura Catch Stewart and cook your own blue cod off butterfish, ling, barracouta and blue cod. ling, barracouta and blue cod. butterfish, pecially around the Marlborough Sound, are Sound, are pecially around the Marlborough hapuku, trumpeter, for snapper, hake, great rivers of Otago and Southland also have some Otago and Southland also have of rivers the world. the best salmon fishing in of Mataura River (Southland) and Lake Brunner River Mataura (the West Coast). The and the Arnold River fare well on the trout index, most notably well the fare Thanks to the introduction of trout, salmon, trout, Thanks to the introduction of (amongst other species), NZ and char perch recrea- the world’s great has become one of and lakes South Island rivers tional fisheries. Alps and contrasting Canterbury Plains. There Alps and contrasting Canterbury There Plains. from Queenstown. also balloon trips are Fishing hot-air balloon. A float above Methven (p252) Methven hot-air balloon. A float above the Southern grants you spectacular views of Te Anau; p347). Te place over Aoraki/Mt Cook (p265), the West Aoraki/Mt Cook (p265), the West place over and Fiordland (from (p204) Coast glaciers soaring mountains and seldom-viewed ter- soaring mountainsand seldom-viewed the rain deep parks. Some of within national Island trips take most photo-worthy South ticularly environmentally friendly) way to ticularly environmentally friendly) way to landscapes, absorb the country’s contrasting by the locals) all over NZ, operating from from NZ, operating by the locals) all over (but not par- great local aerodromes. It’s a Small planes and helicopters circle the skies Small planes and helicopters on sightseeingtrips (called ‘flightseeing’ Aerial Sightseeing smorgasbord. ACTIVITIES (p76) See South Island chapter the Active on NZ’s outdoor activity info for more a longer stay you’re thinking about, check out thinking about, check stay you’re a longer www.nzflats.co.nz. .co.nz; for swanky self-contained for .co.nz; apartments If it’s try www.newzealand-apartments.co.nz. lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY Pages sitters’ and‘child care centres’ inthe portions. child-sized of upmarket eateries) canhandletheideaof most cafésandrestaurants (withtheexception kids’mealsand own menu.Pubsoften serve are provided fromtheir andkidscanchoose inNZ,wheretaurants toddlers’ highchairs hostels (includingYHA hostels) that do. come kidseither,butthere are plentyof other the youngbackpacker demographicdon’twel- are valuedabove Hostels allelse. focussing on grown-up getaways where peaceandquiet promoteof businesses themselves as these are notusually amenable tofamilies–many B&Bs places have child-minding services. usually able tosupply themandtheplushest range accommodation,buttop-endhotels are aren’t alwayseasytofindatbudget andmid- trampolines. Cots,highchairs andbabybaths occasionally fenced swimmingpoolsand grounds, gamesandvideoequipment, Many motels andholidayparkshave play- Practicalities bunch! friendly or citycouncil,askalocal–Kiwisare a check withthelocalvisitorinformationcentre ababyorchangego tonurse anappy(diaper); where mothers (andsometimesfathers) can towns have centrallylocated publicrooms Travel with Children LonelyPlanet’s For helpfulgeneral tips,see CHILDREN open onChristmasDayorGood Friday. from Thursday to Saturday. openuntillate,at noonandstay particularly Pubs andbars generally pouringdrinks start from noonto2pmand6pm8pm. food Pubsusuallyserve well intothenight. café-barthough hybridspush theenvelope around5pm, open asearly7amandclose sometimes Cafés hours theweek. throughout restaurant stripsinlarge citieskeep longer later themain onFridayandSaturdaynights; fooduntil11pmor least 9pmbutoften serve Note, Paper Plus)often open later. desksinnewsagencies (TakeSaturday; postal with mainbranches alsoopen9.30amto1pm are open8.30amto5pmMondayFriday, 388 For specialised childcare,For specialised lookunder ‘baby- There are plentyof so-calledfamilyres- Don’t countonmanyattractionsbeing typicallytake ordersRestaurants untilat IETR • Cide ••Children DIRECTORY directory the orcontact local council. . Allcitiesandmostmajor Yellow world-class, withgoodslike formulaand friendlynz.com hasextensive linkstovarious newsagents for$7.50.Finally,www.kids Zealand Directory, behind thiswebsite producethe Thefolks andNelsonindetail. Queenstown spot.co.nz, covering Christchurch, Dunedin, Another handysite forfamiliesiswww.kid tres. Ask atlocalvisitorinformationcentres. and restaurants inmostSouthIslandcen- .co.nz), child-friendly which details activities tivities; oneexampleis booklets geared andac- towardskids’sights Some regions producefree information Sights &Activities willbe seat properly fitted. foryourchild, sizeof andthatthe right seat cansupplythe that thecompanyyouchoose –double-checkwith theconceptof babyseats centres. Many hire-car companiesstruggle nappieswidelyavailabledisposable inurban usually get free admission and transport. under 18years; toddlers (underfouryears old) definition of ‘child’ canvaryfromunder12to off theadultrate. Donote, thatthe however, transport, withdiscountsasmuch as50% attraction entryfees andair,bustrain often available foraccommodation, tours, Service the bring intoNZ,see CUSTOMS or föhnwindcanbehot and fierce. Plains;insummerthiskatabatic Canterbury astheyblowdownhill andcrossthe and speed ture, thewindscontinueeast,gatheringheat (about 330mm).After dumpingtheirmois- nually!) andadryclimate ontheeastern side (around7500mmofthe mountains rainan- creating awetclimate onthewestern sideof moisture-ladenas abarrierforthese easterlies, the windshowlingthrough Cook Strait. the Tasman andisconsistently slappedby Sea, blasted) by cool,dampwindsblowinginfrom which means itgets ‘freshened’ (somesay NZ sitssmack-bang intheRoaringForties, CLIMATE CHARTS facets of kiddy-culture. For thelow-downonwhatyou canandcan’t NZ’s medical services andfacilitiesare NZ’s medicalservices Child concessions(andfamilyrates) are On theSouthIsland,SouthernAlpsact See p388 for further seasonal instruction. p388forfurtherseasonal See

(www.customs.govt.nz) available online orfrom Kidz Go! website. New Zealand Customs Customs New Zealand lonelyplanet.com (www.kidzgo Kids New DIRECTORY 389 problem major ambassador for NZ tourism. I don’t recall being bothered being bothered I don’t recall Sir Ian McKellen spent several years in NZ filming and spent several has become something of an unofficial Sir Ian McKellen is a UK-based actor who is a UK-based Sir Ian McKellen Oddly, when actually filming scenes for Oddly, when actually filming scenes for As an unpaid but enthusiastic proselytiser an unpaid but enthusiastic proselytiser As on behalf of all things Kiwi, including the to I hesitate tourist industry, New Zealand of sandflies. mention the well-kept secret I first met them en masse at the glorious the visitors (after Milford Sound, where met, in the world) are most beautiful drive at least during the summer, by crowds of unctions patent are There the little buggers. them too, but that cope, and tobacco repels find them an I would hope that travellers with the glory insignificant pest compared of their habitat. Lord of the Rings, been, by sandflies at all. Honestly. Had there set the Orcs on them. we would have SANDFLIES Don’t underestimate the dangers posed posed the dangers Don’t underestimate from the NZ has thankfully been spared Theft, primarily from cars, is a from cars, Theft, primarily and firearms are either prohibited or require or require prohibited either are and firearms testing. safety a permit and the boot (trunk) of the car – but carry your the boot (trunk) of in case. passport with you, just in high-altitude especially climate, changing for information. see p76 areas; found in creatures venomous of proliferation jelly- snakes, Australia (spiders, neighbouring but hang out in NZ waters, fish etc). Sharks and by the abundant marine life well fed are nibble on humans; that said, attacks on rarely greater Much humans do occasionally occur. the rips hazards in the ocean, however, are and and undertows that plague some beaches out to sea. Take can quickly drag swimmers DANGERS & ANNOYANCES DANGERS and salacious in loud reported Though often detailheadline-hungry broadsheets, by violent in NZ. common crime is not viewed as are and travellers around the country, valuables in vehicles, leaving easy marks. Avoid places to the worst it’s parked; where no matter and the car tourist parking areas are fate tempt crown jewels simplyparks at trailheads. If the sight in out of pack them must be left behind, by the South Island’s unpredictable, ever- unpredictable, by the South Island’s mm mm mm 200 150 100 50 0 200 150 100 50 0 200 150 100 50 0 Average Average Average Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 50 75 75 50 0 0 25 25 25 75 50 0 100 100 100 34m (112ft) 355m (116ft) 0 0 0 6 4 2 8 8 6 4 2 8 6 4 2 in in in DIRECTORYDangers & Annoyances •• 2m (4ft) Humidity Humidity Humidity Temp/ Temp/ Temp/ JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND °F °F °F 68 68 86 86 68 86 50 32 14 50 32 14 50 32 14 Customs officers are obviously fussy about obviously fussy are Customs officers When entering NZ you can bring most ar- When entering QUEENSTOWN CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH DUNEDIN 0 0 0 20 20 30 30 °C % °C % 20 30 °C % 10 10 10 and food of any kind. You’ll also come under and food of via Africa, arrived scrutiny if you’ve greater Weapons or South America. Southeast Asia products (including anything made of wood), products (including anything made of checked and may need to be cleaned before and may need to be cleaned before checked being allowed in; ditto golf clubs and bicy- any plant or animal cles. You must declare are serious about keeping out any diseasesserious keeping about are that may harm NZ’s agricultural industry. will be boots and tents as such Tramping gear drugs, so declare all medicines. Bio-security all medicines. drugs, so declare is another customs buzzword – authorities dutiable goods up to the value of $700. of dutiable goods up to the value cigarettes (or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco) and tobacco) and or 250g of (or 50 cigars cigarettes taking them with you when you leave. There’s There’s taking them with you when you leave. 1125mL allowance of duty-free a per person wine or beer, 200 liqueur, 4.5L of spirits or of ticles in free of duty provided customs is satis- duty provided of ticles in free use and that you’ll be for personal fied they’re lonelyplanet.com -10 -10 -10 DIRECTORY Thorndon, Wellington) Germany France Fiji Canada Australia and high commissions include: with afew inAuckland.Embassies, consulates NZ are ontheNorthIslandinWellington, Most principaldiplomaticrepresentations to EMBASSIES &CONSULATES sions where applicable. acknowledge such cardsandgrantconces- recognised inNZbutthatmanyplacesstill respective countriesare notalways‘officially’ overseas willfindthatthecards issued bytheir (www.statravel.co.nz) from studenttravel companieslike professionals. Allthree cardsare available (ITIC),available toteachingIdentity Card ISTC brainchild istheInternational Teacher equivalent benefitstotheISIC.Asimilar 26 whoare notfull-timestudents,andgives available 12and tofolksbetween (IYTC), duces theInternational YouthTravel Card admission toattractions.TheISTC alsopro- counts onaccommodation,transportand 12 years andover andprovides red-hot dis- The cardisissued tofull-timestudentsaged (ISIC). International StudentIdentityCard body behind theinternationally recognised specialist studenttravel organisations andthe (ISTC; www.istc.org) The in areas.coastal repellent yourself withinsect p389). Lather flies are aroyalP.I.T.A. theboxed (see text, ter howphotogenic thescenery may be. andkeep youreyesontheroadnomat- speed stead of careening aroundthecountry attop areasonable yourself itineraryin- Set sheep. andtraffic-ignorant cornering campervans locals,wide- made hazardousbyspeeding surfing or diving. notice of localwarningswhenswimming, 90-92 Hobson St,Thorndon, Wellington) Hobson St,Thorndon, Wellington) 390 fl, 34-42 Manners St, fl, 34-42Manners Wellington) /newzealand; L11,125TheTerrace, Wellington) DSON CARDS DISCOUNT Senior and disabled travellers anddisabled Senior wholive In theannoyancescategory, NZ’ssand- The SouthIslands’roadsare sometimes ( % International Student Travel Confederation StudentTravel International IETR • Dson ad ••DiscountCards DIRECTORY ( ( % 04-473 5401;www.fiji.org.nz; 31 Pipitea St, % ( ( % % 04-384 2555; www.ambafrance-nz.org; 12th 04-384 2555;www.ambafrance-nz.org; 04-473 9577;www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca 04-473 6411;www.australia.org.nz; 72-76 04-473 6063;www.wellington.diplo.de; isaninternational collective of and cost NZ$20 each. STA Travel

L19, The Majestic Centre, 100WillisSt, L19, TheMajestic Wellington) 29 Fitzherbert Tce,Thorndon, 29 Fitzherbert Wellington) Thorndon, Wellington) Ballance Sts, Wellington) embassy.co.nz; L10,InvestmentHouse,cnrFeatherston & aplenty. Held in February. Over-indulgence fine foodandentertainment. wineries, -festival.co.nz) Features winefromover50Marlborough te question. the port, butaloanforonwardtravel isoutof embassy mayassistwithgetting anewpass- all yourmoneyanddocumentsstolen, expect youtohave insurance. Ifyouhave unlikelyexceedingly –theembassywould togetneed homeurgently, afree ticket is have exhausted. Forexample,ifyou been butonlyifotherchannelssome assistance country. ifsucheven actions are legalinyour own up injailafter committingacrimelocally, bassy willnotbesympatheticifyouend NZ you’re boundbyNZlaws–yourem- Whilein the fixyou’re inisself-induced. sies won’tbemuch helpinemergencies if get speaking,embas- intotrouble. Generally embassy canandcan’tdotohelpyouif toknowwhatyournational It’s important USA UK Netherlands Japan Ireland Wildfoods Festival WineFestival Marlborough Festival World Buskers in thisbook.Ahandful of highlights: are provided destinationchapters throughout .com and www.eventfinder.co.nz. then Events Calendar. alsowww.nzlive See /travel) the thecountry?Checkout staged throughout ous foodandwine,sportingorartsfestivals Want toplanyourtravels aroundthevari- FESTIVALS &EVENTS Citigroup Bldg,23CustomsStE, Auckland) January/February. crowdsfor10days theChristchurch talent entertain in National andinternational .worldbuskersfestival.com) challenging foodfest in March. comfort-zone- worms, hare testiclesorcrabsatHokitika’s ( In genuine emergencies get youmight Details ofDetails SouthIsland festivals andevents ( % % Tourism NewZealand Tourism ( website – click on Sights &Activities, website –click onSights % ( 04-924 2888; www.britain.org.nz; 44 Hill St, 44Hill 04-924 2888;www.britain.org.nz; % 04-462 6000;http://wellington.usembassy.gov; 04-473 1540;www.nz.emb-japan.go.jp; L18& 09-977 2252;www.ireland.co.nz; L7, ( % 04-471 6390;www.netherlands (www.wildfoods.co.nz) Eatsome ( % (www.wine-marlborough 03-377 2365;www

(www.newzealand.com lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY

391 express Gay Ski Week is a G&L film is a good starting , published every two Gay Tourism New Zealand every second Wednesday in August/September. (www.outtakes.org.nz) 6 February 6

(www.out.co.nz; $6) (www.out.co.nz; 1 & 2 January

Out! Smoking is banned in all restaurants, pubs restaurants, Smoking is banned in all There are loads of websites dedicated to gay dedicated websites loads of are There Check out nationwide magazines like Out Takes For more info, see the Food & Drink For more Eating recommendations in this book are in are in this book Eating recommendations (www.gayskiweeknz.com) HOLIDAYS Public Holidays NZ’s main public holidays: New Year Waitangi Day and lesbian travellers. (www.gaytourismnewzealand.com) Other worth- point, with links to various sites. while queer include www.gaynz.com, websites www.gaynz.net.nz and www.lesbian.net.nz. For accommodation listings see www.gaystay out check should Queenstown visitors .co.nz. www.gayqueenstown.com. $3) (www.gayexpress.co.nz; and and happenings, reviews for the latest months, gay scene. listings on the NZ in June, while in Christchurch staged festival Queenstown the annual stages outdoor areas (often heated) for puffers. Tipping for puffers. heated) (often outdoor areas not expected. cafés is and in restaurants (p59). chapter GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS in NZ isn’t as The G&L tourism industry Australia as in neighbouring high-profile present, but homosexual communities are across with myriad support organisations progressive both islands. NZ has relatively gays and lesbi- the rightslaws protecting of for sex betweenans; the legal minimum age is 16. Generallyconsenting speaking persons and accepting about fairly relaxed Kiwis are homosexuality, but that’s not to say that doesn’t exist. homophobia budget order, from cheapest to most expensive, to most cheapest order, from budget res- by type, from ordered with city listings taurants often to cafés to quick eats. Cafésare in casual with bang-up meals the best value, pubs label under $20. Some city surrounds for restaurant- ‘gastropubs’, offering themselves pubs serve but most style fare, standard bistro restaurants under $20. Midrange meals, usually as $30 for a main meal, but as much can charge don’t be surprised to see mains priced from $35 top-end restaurants. to $45 at trendy set up but many establishments have and bars New website (www (www.nzcupand Edmond’s Cookery Edmond’s Cookery (www.goldrush.co.nz) (www.goldrush.co.nz) (www.vegsoc.org.nz) DIRECTORY •• Food St Bathans vs Becks (OtagoSt Bathans vs Becks towns with a slavish reflection of Anglo-Saxon Anglo-Saxon of reflection a slavish

On the contemporary coffee front, you’ll coffee On the contemporary Vegetarian food – particularly in cities and Vegetarian

Eateries themselves are represented by every- represented Eateries are themselves mainstream – expect even the most redneck of of – expect even the most redneck mainstream some to have nowhere pubs in the middle of on tap. decent drops be hard-pressed to find a South Island town be hard-pressed you can’t find a decent es- any size where of also become beers have Microbrewed presso. Zealand Vegetarian Society and veg- veg guide covering has a restaurant the country. friendly options around of them catering to vegans and those with other to vegans them catering of as coeliacs. such The dietary requirements, cated vegetarian cafés or restaurants, a number cafés or restaurants, vegetarian cated the salad or roasted vegetable mains that used to vegetable the salad or roasted and tourist towns be the norm. Urban centres several) dedi- at least one (often usually have towns with a resident foodie bourgeoisie – foodie bourgeoisie towns with a resident a world apart from creative, has become quite The website www.dineout.co.nz is worth a look www.dineout.co.nz The website NZ restaurants. on feedback for diners’ so crisp you’re afraid to prop your elbows on it.so crisp you’re grungy or retro stylings; restaurant-bars with stylings; restaurant-bars grungy or retro servicefull à la carte drinks to and late-night the linen isfine-dining establishments where thing from fry-’em-up fish-and-chip shops andthing from fry-’em-up fish-and-chip pub bistros to cafés drowned in faux-European, tion. The end result is often referred to as to as referred is often tion. The end result as broad in its definition Rim, a term Pacific or Asian. as Mediterranean island-harvested meats with a dash of Asian, island-harvested Asian, meats with a dash of culinary innova- European and pan-Pacific restaurants and hip cafés are adept at throw- hip cafés are and restaurants trad staples as lamb, beef, such ing together mussels and other green-lipped venison, Book, But nowadays the country’s stylish stodge. The NZ foodie scene was once governed by once governed The NZ foodie scene was to the strict adherence FOOD New Zealand Cup & Show Week Wooden Cup New Zealand International Festivals Film Goldrush MultisportGoldrush Event lonelyplanet.com .enzedff.co.nz) After and in Dunedin separate film festivals .enzedff.co.nz) Christchurch, a selection the road for screen- of flicks hits to October. July towns from ings in regional Have a flutter on the nags or inspectshow.co.nz) some in November. prize bulls in Christchurch 375km of kayaking,375km of gold along old cycling and running during March. Central Otagomining trails in single-digit in a September populations) rugby rumble. for miles! Accommodation is booked out DIRECTORY diving, parasailing, bungyjumping, white-diving, parasailing, nated ‘dangerous activities’ such asscuba the fineprintand shop around. plenty of from –compare policies tochoose medicalcosts,likehigh theUSA.There are onesarehigher chiefly forcountriesthathave options;the medical-expense and higher camerapilfered.ital Most policiesoffer lower than anaccidentorhaving yourduty-free dig- nothing willruinyourholidaymore quickly theft, lossandmedicalproblemsis essential; A watertighttravel insurancepolicycovering INSURANCE (www.minedu.govt.nz) the For exactdates see toearlyOctober.July, andmid-September frommid-tolate April, earlytomid- year: shorter school-holiday periodsduringthe queues attouristattractions.There are three modation booked out,andlong,grumpy most likely findtransportandaccom- summer school vacation.It’sthetimeyou’ll December tolate January, ispartof the frommid- The Christmasholidayseason, School Holidays Canterbury Westland Chatham Islands Marlborough South Canterbury Otago Nelson Southland days include: continues. weekend’ the great Kiwitraditionof the‘long they’re heldonthepreceding Monday– TuesdayandThursday,they fallbetween the followingMonday;if usually observed FridayandSunday,they’redays fallbetween provincial holi- holidaysvary–whenthese anniversary-day holiday.Thedates of these In addition,each NZprovince hasitsown Day Boxing Day Christmas Labour Day Queen’s Birthday Anzac Day Easter 392 March/April Some policiesspecifically excludedesig- South Islandprovincial anniversary holi- IETR • Isrne ••Insurance DIRECTORY 23 March odFia atrMna; &EasterMonday; GoodFriday 1 February 1 December 25 April 17 January 16 December 4thMondayinOctober 26 December 1 November 25 December 30 November 1stMondayinJune 25 September website. Ministry ofEducation Ministry

scheme thatprovides accidentinsurancefor surance. Forcarinsuranceinformation in yourhomecountryor ongoing illness. for such things aslossof incomeortreatment travel cover insurancepolicy,asitdoesn’t you out thenecessityforyourowncomprehensive a cheer. notcancel thisscheme However does gation ‘industries’inothercountriesandraise ment, others pointtothehugely expensive liti- fault. of regardless NZ residents andvisitors tothecountry, .co.nz) Accident CompensationCorporation exemplary damages). Instead, thecountry’s you cannotsueforpersonal injury(otherthan evacuations by air. covers ambulancesandemergency medical your problem ismade. Check thatthepolicy country where of animmediate assessment (reverse charges) toacentre inyourhome Somepoliciesaskyoutocallback mentation. to claimlater make sure youkeep alldocu- pay onthespotandclaimlater. Ifyouhave directlyor hospitals ratherthanhaving you covers you fully. Island), make sure thepolicyyouchoose things (adistinctpossibilityontheSouth bushwalking. Ifyouplanondoinganyof these water rafting, motorcycling,skiingandeven small, out-of-the-way towns, where aso-called small, out-of-the-way 6pm! Facilities are alotmore haphazardin time yourvisitanytime otherthan4pmto the machines intheafter-school hours – terminals.speed Obnoxious teens often swamp tourist areas are usuallybrimmingwithhigh- Internet cafésinthebigger urban centres or Internet Cafés etc). www.gmail.com ices (www.yahoo.com, www.hotmail.com, address with oneof themanyfree emailserv- have upatravelling one,it’sworthsetting most remote locales.Ifyoudon’talready onlineinNZiseasyallbutthe Getting INTERNET ACCESS .com/bookings/insurance.do. 44 countriesisavailable onlineatlonelyplanet p392. see While somepeoplecryfoulatthisarrange- See alsop414fornotes onmedicalin- See It’s worthmentioningthatunderNZlaw, You mayprefer apolicythatpaysdoctors For a list of useful NZ websites, see p20. For alistof NZwebsites, see useful Worldwide cover fortravellers fromover administers anaccidentcompensation lonelyplanet.com

(ACC; www.acc DIRECTORY .

393 (www.aamaps

(www.linz.govt

(maps.yellowpages.co.nz)

AA SmartMap New Zealand Road Atlas New Zealand Yellow Maps Yellow or the publishes several map series, exhaustive If you are arrested it’s your right to con- arrested If you are Keep in mind that your PC-card modem your PC-card modem in mind that Keep Online, log onto The AA (p408) produces excellent city, Land Information New Zealand Always carry your licence when driving; for Always carry your licence national and forest park maps, and topo- national and forest maps. Scan the larger graphical trampers’ DOCbookshops, or try the nearest office or topo maps. for visitor information centre .co.nz) MAPS through- widely available maps are Top-notch maps and atlasesout NZ – from detailed street masterpieces. to topographic local offices; from their members available automobile associations affiliated overseas of and discounts on pres- maps can obtain free card. The AA also a membership entation of produces a detailed and book- from visitor information centres KiwiMaps published by Hema, shops, are and Wises. .nz) country and holiday maps, including street, illegal, and anyone caught carrying this or the book thrown other illicit drugs will have is small drugs if the amount of at them. Even will still be and the fine minimal, a conviction may affect your against you which recorded visa status. info, seemore p408. Drink-driving is a serious in significant problem a and remains offence campaigns and se- widespread NZ despite limit penalties. The legal blood alcohol vere for 20, and 0.03% over is 0.08% for drivers under 20. those questioning any formal sult a lawyer before begins. your machine. A lot of midrange accommoda- midrange A lot of your machine. wall have top-end hotels nearly all tions and call with expensive but you’ll be hit sockets, you’ll probably places cheaper In most charges. the wall. into hardwired are find that phones option is to in NZ. The safest may not work you modem before ‘global’ buy a reputable modem or buy a local PC-card home leave to NZ. once you get LEGAL MATTERS ‘New Zealand (aka ‘elec- Marijuana Green’, in but indulged tric puha’ or ‘dac’) is widely Other reliable countrywide atlases, available countrywide atlases, available Other reliable town, regional, island and highway maps, town, regional, (www.telecom

DIRECTORY Matters •• Legal 0800 003 040; www.xtra.co.nz/products) 0800 003 040; 03-479 0303; www.earthlight.co.nz) Has Telecom New Zealand Telecom 0800 892 000; www.slingshot.co.nz) 0508 888 800; www.clear.net.nz) % ( % % % ( ( ( , which has wireless hotspots around hotspots around has wireless , which If you’ve brought your palmtop or note- If you’ve The country’s main telecommunications The country’s main telecommunications Internet access at cafés ranges anywhere anywhere access at cafés ranges Internet Most hostels make an effort make to hook you up, Most hostels a page on its website detailing prepaid internet access for a page on its website detailing prepaid to NZ. travellers British BT431A and RJ-11 telephone plugs, but and RJ-11 telephone British BT431A local electronics shops universal; neither are to help. You’ll also needshould be able a plug adaptor will enable AC adaptor – a universal you to plug in without frying the innards of If you’re planning on plugging in, NZ uses If you’re Slingshot Xtra Telecom Earthlight regions. Major ISPs: Major regions. Clear.Net are plenty of options, though some limit their plenty of are cities or particular to major dial-up areas card. See the website for hotspot listings. hotspot card. See for the website to connected get and want to book computer servicea local internet (ISP), there provider can purchase a prepaid number from the login can purchase a prepaid your credit hotspot using at any wireless page NZ. If you have a wi-fi-enabled device, a wi-fi-enabled you NZ. If you have card prepaid wireless can purchase a Telecom you from participating hotspots. Alternatively, company is .co.nz) wink and a secret handshake to enable you to enable handshake wink and a secret sometimes Sometimes it’s free, online. to get a charge. there’s or customer to access the internet at thesethe internet or customer to access with a code, a locations – you’ll be issued lobbies to pub beer din- gardens to hostel to be a guest you have ing rooms. Usually Increasingly, you’ll be able to find wi-fi find wi-fi to you’ll be able Increasingly, Island, from hotel hotspots around the South There’s often a minimum period of access, period of a minimum often There’s 15 minutes. usually 10 or Service Wireless Access & Internet Providers can be found in cities where competition and can be found in cities where prices. dirt-cheap generate numbers traveller from $3 to $8 per hour – the lowest rates – the lowest rates from $3 to $8 per hour for travellers to check their email – head for to check for travellers first. café an internet but there can be a limited number of terminals terminals number of a limited can be but there needs, not for research provided and these are with internet access sometimes free for guests. for guests. sometimes free access with internet too, access internet libraries have public Many internet café could turn out to be a single ter- out to be could turn café internet store. video a of in the corner minal lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY dbt card. debit flexible optionisto carrybothacredit anda elling moneyisinside aplasticcard!Themost Perhaps the safest placetokeep yourNZtrav- Credit &DebitCards prepared toshop aroundtoget the best deal. work before youarrive inthecountry andbe toopenanaccount, doyourhome- you’ll need ices offered toshort-term visitors. Ifyouthink websites areBank alsorathervagueontheserv- accompanied bysomeproof of employment. at leastsixmonths, orunlesstheapplicationis them unlessthey’re inNZfor planningtostay won’t allowvisitors toopenanaccountwith thatmanybanks Othersourcessay processed. then waitingafew dayswhileyourrequest is addresspostal (oryourpermanentaddress) and ing afew piecesof ID,providing atemporary it’sassimpleflash- NZ. Somesourcessay for nonresidents toopenabankaccountin We’ve heardmixed reports onhoweasyitis Bank Accounts number (PIN)to it. use toknowyourpersonalneed identification banks.Justlikeway between an ATM, you everywhere, inplaceswhere even it’salong cash aswell.Eftposisavailable practically andoften orpurchases, withdraw services card (credit ordebit)topaydirectly for yourbank thatallowsyoutouse ient service transfer atpointof (Eftpos),aconven- sale across the South Island. ATMs everywhere, butthey’re widespread access tooverseas accounts.Youwon’tfind accept cardsfromotherbanksandprovide Westpac andASB, have 24-hourATMs that ANZ, of cluding theBank NewZealand, Branches of thecountry’smajor banks,in- ATMs &Eftpos of exchange rates. ontheinsidefrontcoversection foralist theQuickReferencethan itoncewas.See making NZlessof abargain destination years (particularlyagainsttheUSdollar), ground againstothercurrencies inrecent The NZdollarhasgainedconsiderable MONEY cities and towns. to pinpointexactaddresses inSouthIsland 394 Many electronicfunds use NZbusinesses IETR • Mny ••Money DIRECTORY Prices are often stillmarked insinglecents coins, and$5,$10,$20,$50$100notes. 100 cents.There are 10c,20c,50c,$1and$2 NZ’s currency istheNZdollar,comprising Currency whilst ontheroad– nice one! can top-upfromyourpersonal bankaccount withdrawalfees andabalanceyou with set (Travelex Passport callsthemCash cards) Companies such asTravelex offer debitcards on yourhomebank;askbefore youleave. at aforeign bankorATM varydepending you knowyourPIN.Fees forusingyourcard Plus andEurocard)shouldwork,provided tional bankingnetwork(Cirrus,Maestro, Visa machines. Anycardconnected totheinterna- bank accountusingATMs, banksorEftpos can drawmoneydirectly fromyourhome safer optionisadebitcardwithwhich you and goinghometoasteaming pileof debt.A ger withcredit cardsismaxingoutyourlimit accepted. widely such asDiners ClubandAmexare notas tions incurimmediate interest. Charge cards on thecard,butbeaware thatsuch transac- advances atbanksandfromATMs, depending forover-the-countercan alsobeused cash ifyouwanttohiremuch essential acar. They bed toabungyjump.Credit cardsare pretty widely accepted fromahostel foreverything conveniently tend openbeyond nor- tostay in allmajor touristareas, citiesandairports, the bigger cities.Moneychangers canbefound such asTravelex (formerly ThomasCook)in moneychangersSouth Island,orat licensed the is usuallynoproblem atbanksthroughout Changing foreign currency ortravellers cheques Moneychangers Report. Cash or departure tofillout aBorder –you’llneed (in anycurrency) mustbedeclared onarrival to orinexcessof theequivalentof NZ$10,000 notprohibited,Though cashamountsequal porting orexportingtravellers cheques. country, p19. see the costsassociated withtravelling aroundthe in thisbookare inNZdollars. Foranideaof you handover your money. and thenroundedtothenearest 10cwhen Credit MasterCard cards(Visa, etc)are There are restrictions nonotable onim- Apart fromlosingthem,theobviousdan- Unless otherwise noted,Unless allpricesquoted otherwise lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 395 s of fashionable s of From the backs of NZ sheep come sheep- NZ sheep From the backs of You can have mail addressed to you care to you care mail addressed You can have To see pre- just how far New Zealanders are skin products such as footwear (including the as footwear skin products such boot) and beautiful wool- Ugg much-loved made from or sweaters) (jerseys len jumpers your camera. But there are numerous locally are But there your camera. you can purchase for their own items crafted unique qualities. Clothing (p220) boasts fashion-conscious Christchurch boutiques ablaze with the sartorial flair of Pick young and well-established NZ designers. up some duds on Colombo, High or Cashel along self-importantSts, then parade yourself Check out www.fashionz.co.nz Tce. Oxford information on the hottest for up-to-date them. to find and where and labels designers as Zambesi, such an eye out for labels Keep Cooper, Trelise Walker, Karen Sylvester, Kate Little Brother. Nom.D and to push the boundarie pared & visit the amazing WearableArt creativity, in Nelson. Classic Cars Museum (p158) bornly refer to them as post offices throughout to them as post offices bornly refer this guidebook. For standard open- post office seeing hours, Stamps p387. be can usually also and bookshops. purchased at supermarkets in which- PostShop’ Main Restante, ‘Poste of held is usually Mail ever town you require. some for 30 days and you need to provide as a passport) identification (such form of collect it. to SHOPPING it’s nec- those countries where NZ isn’t one of to help you remember essary to buy a T-shirt me- your visit; the spectacular landscapes are later mentoes to be plucked in themselves, memory or the card inside of from the depths International parcel zones are the same as zones are parcel International weight on pricing depends and for letters; sendwhether you (three the parcel ‘economy’ weeks), two weeks) ‘air’ (one to to five or days). To send of a matter (within ‘express’ expensive; is roughlyparcels by ‘air’ 20% more Check out the 50% more. at least by ‘express’ the website. calculator on precise incredibly Mail Sending & Receiving called ‘PostShops’ are NZ post offices Many from beenthese removed days, as most have and settheir traditional old buildings up in but we still stub- modern shop-style premises,

(www New Zealand Post DIRECTORY •• Post are reliable and reasonably inex- and reasonably reliable are

International destinations are divided into destinations are International Postcard $1.50 $1.50 $1.50 Letter $2 Large Letter Ex Large Letter Approx Delivery $2.50 $3.50 3-10 work days 6-10 work days $3 $5 South Pacific Item South Australia & Rest of World and the rest of the world. Standard (ex- rates of and the rest also available): servicespress two zones: Australia and the South Pacific, two zones: Australia and the South Pacific, .nzpost.co.nz) Within NZ standard post costs 50c pensive. postcards, and $1 for and for standard letters larger letters. The services by offered free but shop around for the best rates. but shop around for the free POST in the larger cities are sometimes commission cities are in the larger ing foreign-currency traveller’s cheques vary cheques traveller’s ing foreign-currency from bank to bank, while Amex or Travelex if you use perform the task commission-free found moneychangers Private their cheques. present your passport for identification when present per transaction for chang- them. Fees cashing and other international brands of travellers travellers brands of and other international You need to easily exchanged. are cheques cess in NZ can make travellers cheques seem cheques travellers in NZ can make cess rather old-hat. Nevertheless, Amex, Travelex Traveller’s Cheques ac- debit- and credit-card The ubiquity of totally acceptable to reward good servicetotally acceptableto reward and on your entirely depends the tip you leave satisfaction the bill – between 5% and 10% of the norm. is staff – the do not depend on tips for income bill is all a restaurant total at the bottom of sometimes there’s you need that to pay (note an additional service That said, it’s charge). Tipping is completely optional in NZ, and is completely Tipping able when you leave NZ. leave able when you Tipping for any small print announcing that the price print announcing that for any small avail- refund no GST There’s is GST-exclusive. 12.5% tax services. on all domestic goods and but look out book include GST, Prices in this The Goods and Services Tax (GST) is a flat (GST) and ServicesThe Goods Tax mal business hours during the week (often week during the (often hours mal business until 9pm). Taxes & Refunds lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY ti scheme. this that not all Maori artists are registered with Maoritween andnon-Maori artists. Note Maori’ artistsandvia‘co-productions’ be- fying items producedby groups of ‘mainly modified versions of thetrademark,identi- of artistsof Maori descent.There are also the outputof individualartistsorgroups created byaMaori arts board toidentify trademark ifit’saccompanied bythemade piece,see neck. mon, wornonaleatherstringaround the Maori styles,are andmodernised mostcom- intraditional fish-hook pendants,carved days theycater tothetouristindustry.Bone the shapeof humansandanimals,butnowa- in haveartisans alwaysmadebonecarvings thing of arenaissance around NZ.Maori the souvenir shops. buying poorexamplesof thecraftthatline a premium work,butavoid forhigh-quality You’llpay traditionalMaoridetailed carvings. forms like leapingdolphins,aswellhighly whakairo rakau Keep aneyeoutforexamplesof Maori Maori Arts an artsyenclave near Queenstown. occasional market. DittoArrowtown(p322), place, heavily populated bygalleriesandthe Nelson region (p153)isanothervery crafty lery, ceramics,glassware andaccessories.The locallydesignedandcrafted jewel- selling (p220) offers dozensof shopsandgalleries ing visitors. InChristchurch theArtsCentre inspired topass- tohand-shapeitems forsale country are of devoid someonewho’sbeen most sizabletowns.Few (ifany)placesinthe in Fine localcraftproductscanbepurchased Crafts in outdoor-gear shops. blue-and-black plaidones;pickup‘Swannies’ areas. Mostcommonare thered-and-black or practically thenationalgarmentincountry pullovers are soridiculouslypractical,they’re and possum fur. yarn that’sacombinationof merinowool Look forgarmentsmadefromalovely soft knick-knacks includehats,gloves andscarves. hand-spun, hand-dyedwool.Otherknitted 396 To confirmtheauthenticityof anyMaori- areMaori undergoing some- bonecarvings Long woollenSwanndrijackets, shirtsand IETR • Tlpoe ••TelephoneDIRECTORY toi iho (woodcarving) –intricate (woodcarving)

(www.toiiho.com) , asymbol out inwarlike repose, wornonaleatherstring ures, usuallydepicted withtheirtonguestuck is ‘tohang’.Theyare Maori tiny,stylised fig- legend, Tiki wasthefirst mancreated and ally means‘hanginghumanform’–inMaori popular isthe carnations of Maori motifs.Oneof themost shops, butyouwillfindlotsof stonygreen in- (war clubs)in Greenstone). of Greenstone) orTe WaiPounamu(TheWater the islandTe WahiPounamu(ThePlaceof west coastof theSouthIsland–Maoris called raw material. It’sfoundpredominantly onthe jade ornephrite) tobeaculturallyinvaluable Maoris consider Pounamu be taken with you. ornamentscan the country–onlyprocessed it’s illegaltotake naturalpauashells outof awareplaces where that pauaisplentiful.Be attractive ways.Shells are asashtraysin used generic souvenirs, often un- indelightfully ness willfindthatit’salsoincorporated into Loverscarvings. of kitsch and general tacki- lery andisoften asaninlayinMaori used into somebeautifulornamentsandjewel- Abalone shell, calledpauainNZ, iscarved Paua (www.vodafone.co.nz) Another mobile networkoptionis a stake in the localmobile(cell)market. country’s key domestic playerandalsohas Telecom New Zealand TELEPHONE or Chinese European) jade. offshore imported (usually companyselling local operatorwhocraftsstone, notan few questionstoensure you’re buyingfroma for anotherperson, Ask notforyourself. a Christchurch. in (p224) Museum Dunedin andtheCanterbury (p275)in Museum modern, visittheOtago impressiveTo see collectionsbothancientand strewn with jadeworkshops andgiftshops. buy (monster) andthe symbols. Otherpopularmotifsare the mana or chain aroundtheneck.They’ve gotgreat You’re unlikely tocomeacrossany On theSouthIslandbestplaceto Traditionally, pounamu (power), but they also serve asfertility (power),buttheyalsoserve hei tiki, isHokitika(p198),which is pounamu . pounamu pounamu marakihau

(www.telecom.co.nz) thenameof which liter- studiosorsouvenir is bought asagift isbought (greenstone, or lonelyplanet.com monster). (sea Vodafone isthe taniwha mere hei

DIRECTORY 397 priced from 027. Mobile % is a practical option. 025 or % (www.vodarent.co.nz) (www.vodarent.co.nz)

021, % Rental (www.vodafone.co.nz)

If you want to bring your own phone and If you want to bring your if you don’t bring your own Alternatively, In summer NZ observes daylight-saving If you’re making a local call (ie to someone call (ie to making a local If you’re time, where clocks are wound forward by wound forward by clocks are time, where one hour on the last Sunday in September; Sunday wound back on the first clocks are following April. the of arrange this in advance via the website. this in advance via arrange Phonecards available, phonecards of NZ has a wide range newsagencies can be bought at hostels, which dollar value (usually for a fixed and post offices $5, $10, $20 and $50). These can be used with by dialling a toll- phone any public or private access number and then the PIN number free on the card. It’s worth shopping around – call to company. vary from company rates TIME Being line, NZ is close date to the international places in the world to start the the first one of new day (Pitt Island in the Chatham Islands sees sunrise new year). NZ is each the first and two hours GMT/UTC ahead of 12 hours Standard Time. Australian Eastern ahead of urban centres on the South Island. on the urban centres serviceuse a prepaid a local SIM card, with Vodafone in most major Any Vodafone shop (found towns) will set with a SIM card and you up $35, including $10 phone number (about purchased calls); top-ups can be worth of post offices and shops at newsagencies, practically anywhere. one from phone from home, you can rent Vodafone airports. You can off outlets at NZ’s major a SIM card for $2.50 per day (mini- also rent You can $10) or $40 per month. mum charge elsethe same in don’t need town), you to dial a dialling within if you’re But code. the area (even a nearby town) you do if it’s to region the of code, regardless the area to dial have same calling has the place you’re fact that the All dialling from. place you’re code as the their with listed in this book are the numbers codes. area relevant Mobile Phones by preceded are Local mobile phone numbers the prefix away from can be patchy phone coverage $6/25 per day/week, with pick-up and drop- for a 0900 % 0900 are usu- 0900 are 0800 or Yellow Pages Yellow % % 00-44-20, then the 00-44-20, then the % 0508, % DIRECTORY •• Time 0508 and can be called free of of be called free 0508 and can % 64, followed by the appropriate area area 64, followed by the appropriate 00), the country code and the area 00), the country code and the area % %

000-9 (followed by the country code). 000-9 (followed by the 0800 or If dialling NZ from overseas, the country the If dialling NZ from overseas, The toll-free Country Direct service Country Direct The toll-free con-

To make international calls from NZ calls from NZ international To make Toll-free numbers in NZ have the prefix prefix the in NZ have numbers Toll-free any payphone. NZ uses regional area codes for long- area NZ uses regional can be made from distance calls, which LONG-DISTANCE CALLS & AREA CODES CALLS & AREA LONG-DISTANCE calls from payphones cost 50c; both involve calls from payphones cost 50c; both involve talk Callsunlimited time. to mobile phones timed. are attract higher and rates LOCAL CALLS Local free! phones are Local calls from private code minus the initial zero. code minus the code is number. Certain you dial will have operators number. their service. a special code to access number you’d dial code ( nies in the country you call, but is usually % details are listed in the front of telephone dir- telephone in the front of listed details are from the NZ inter- available ectories or are The access number varies, national operator. phone compa- depending on the number of to make reverse-charge (collect) or credit- reverse-charge to make and other numbers card calls. Country Direct nects callers in NZ with overseas operators operators in NZ with overseas nects callers ping around – consult the ping around – consult the using. International calls from NZ are rela- from NZ are calls using. International and subject to specials that inexpensive tively so it’s worth shop- even more, the rates reduce cost and international dialling code for calls dialling cost and international you’re provider will vary depending on which providers. of list INTERNATIONAL CALLS INTERNATIONAL calls but the allow international Payphones or from mobile phones. Telephone numbers numbers phones. Telephone or from mobile beginning with charge from anywhere in the country, though from anywhere charge from certainthey may not be accessible areas % ing upwards of $1 per minute (more from (more minute $1 per of ing upwards mobiles); these dialled cannot be numbers from payphones. Numbers starting with Numbers Local & International Calls & International Local CALLS & TOLL-FREE INFORMATION lonelyplanet.com you need to dial the international access you need access to dial the international ally recorded information services, ally recorded charg- code (without the initial 0). So for a London cannot be dialled from outside NZ. cannot be dialled from DIRECTORY headings in relevant city and town sections. centres oroffices are listed underInformation forlocalvisitor information details Contact chure fromthewebsite oratvisitorcentres. visitorcentres bro- out.Collectthe DOC set ditions atthenearest visitorcentre before you tocheckcities. Itsimportant localweathercon- major regional centres andineach of themajor visitorcentres areDOC foundinnational parks, flora andfaunabiodiversity challenges. displays andinfoonlocallore, NZ’sunique make bookings. Visitorcentres usuallyhave to helpyouplanyourrecreation activitiesand environments. competitive other, acurioussituationthatexistsinhighly activity oraccommodationprovider over an- aren’ttre torecommend supposed staff one In otherwords,sometimesinformationcen- operators thattheyberepresented equally. ironically hamstrungbythedemandsof local local touristassociation,whileothers are operators whoare payingmembers of the tres promote onlyaccommodationandtour often overwhelmingly helpful. atsmallercentres areNot tobeoutdone,staff ing activities,transportandaccommodation. alsoactastravel agents,maps. Staff book- ties andattractionsfree brochures and abundantinformationonlocal activi- staff, national tourismbody),andhave trained (theofficial ated withTourismNewZealand i-SITEnetwork,whichoutstanding isaffili- The bigger centres united withinthe stand tohaveseems avisitorinformationcentre. it hasanyworthwhileattractionsornot– Kiwi cityortown–whether Almost every Local TouristOffices pages. Internet and booklets,plusinformation-packed busily generated of mountains brochures tourisminfrastructure developed highly that NZhada asapseudo–Middle-earth, status marketing campaignsandthecountry’s cult Even before thesuccessof recent international TOURIST INFORMATION islands. main Chathams are 45minutes aheadof NZ’s 5pm theprevious dayinSanFrancisco. The 8am inSingapore, inLondonand midnight ing), whenit’snooninNZ10amSydney, 398 So (excludingthedurationof sav- daylight There visitorcentres isanetworkof DOC inmindthatmanyinformation cen- Bear IETR • TuitIfrain Information ••Tourist DIRECTORY website. mi centres. main Santa Monica,CA 90401) research website istheofficial (emblazoned around theworld.Agoodplaceforpretrip and click on Living with a Disability; fur-and clickonLivingwithaDisability; 80 Haymarket, London 80 Haymarket, SW1Y 4TQ) wheelchair-accessible car-hire vans.Large companiesofferto alloweasyaccess); taxi that hydraulicallystoopdowntokerb level (buses buses bykneeling are alsoserviced operate from mostmajor centres. Key cities with advance notice. wheelchairs often available atkey attractions similarly provide access,with wheelchair accessible rooms.Many touristattractions tels andB&Bs equippedwithwheelchair- significant numberof hostels, hotels, mo- well fortravellers witha withdisabilities, Kiwi accommodationgenerally caters fairly TRAVELLERS WITHDISABILITIES USA &Canada UK &Europe Australia Japanese). Overseas include: offices languages and in several (includingGerman branding)which hasinformation Zealand with thehugely successful100%Pure New .com) NewZealand Tourism Tourist OfficesAbroad sports NewZealand sports is more the yourthing,see siblewalks.co.nz. Ifcold-weather activity walks. It’savailable onlineatwww.acces descriptions of more than100SouthIsland Andrew Jameson which offers first-hand copy of awildernesspathway, pickupato tackle out onNZ’sgreat outdoors. Ifyou’d like specifically totravellers with disabilities. The latter listsNZtouroperators catering Accommodation, andTravel andTourism. ther categories include Transport,Holiday disability informationwebsite ( available frombranches of is required. Mobility parkingpermitsare controls atnoextracharge; advance notice firms (Avis, Hertz etc)provide cars withhand NW 2000) NSW % Tour operators withaccessiblevehicles For good general information, see NZ’sFor goodgeneral information,see Travellers notmiss need withdisabilities 0800 227200,04-8010854;www.ccs.nzl.org) hasrepresentatives invarious countries ( Accessible Walks % ( %

02-8220 9000;L24,1Alfred St,Sydney, ( % 020-7930 1662;NewZealand House, 310-395-7480; 501SantaMonicaBlvd,

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% 04-917 5400;www.newzealand ($26) byAnnaand

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DIRECTORY 399 Most eligible nationals must apply for this Most eligible nationals See www.womentravel.co.nz for more for more See www.womentravel.co.nz The rules vary for different nationalities The rules vary for different Eligible travellers who are interested only in interested who are Eligible travellers depending on where it’s processed and the it’s processed and the on where depending application. of type WORK on a visitor’s visa in NZ you’re If you arrive caught not allowed to work for pay. If you’re this (or any other) visa condi- breaching you back to where tion, you could be booted came from. WOMEN TRAVELLERS place for women safe a very NZ is generally although the usual sensible precau- travellers, walking alone tions apply. It’s best to avoid cities and the major at nightlate in any of out If you’re alone. towns, and never hitchhike enoughon the town, always keep money aside for a taxi back to your accommodation. The may there same towns where applies in rural unlit, semideserted between streets be a lot of also be you and your bed. Lone women should staying in basic pub accommodation wary of Sexual and well managed. looks safe it unless problem harassment is not a widely reported does happen. course it in NZ but of information. visa own country; resi- from within their some countries can apply online. dents of a an onward ticket, Applicants must have from months three passport valid for at least at NZ and evidence of they will leave the date funds. The appli- least NZ$4200 in accessible you where of is NZ$120 regardless cation fee if your application apply, and isn’t refunded is declined. of up on the specifics you read sure so make with NZ at www your country’s agreement .immigration.govt.nz/migrant/stream/work also p399. /workingholiday. See short-term employment to supplement their to supplement employment short-term NZ’s working part in one of can take travels (WHS). Under theseholiday schemes schemes countries – from 26 18 to 30 years citizens aged including Canada, Germany, France, Ireland, Scandinavian the Netherlands, Malaysia, Japan, USA – can apply forcountries, the UK and the a visa. the visa For most nationalities is valid only to those It’s issued seekingfor 12 months. working holiday, not permanent a genuine not supposed to work for onework, so you’re months. three than employer for more

DIRECTORY •• Visas New Zealand Immigration Service 0508 558 855, 09-914 4100; www.immigration 0508 558 855, . The NZIS has over a dozen offices offices a dozen has over . The NZIS

% Citizens of other countries must obtain a Citizens of Citizens of another 56 countries that have have another 56 countries that Citizens of

in NZ, but its validity will be backdated to to in NZ, but its validity will be backdated for a the country. The fee when you entered from NZ$180 to NZ$280 work visa ranges can apply for a work permit after you’re you’re can apply for a work permit after you’ll need to apply for a work visa, which you’ll need to apply for a work visa, which into a work permit once you ar- translates You years. and is valid for up to three rive who can legally gain work without a visa or who can legally gain work without a visaor visiting NZ to find work, permit. If you’re an employment offer, have or you already It’s illegal for foreign nationals to work in nationals to work in It’s illegal for foreign NZ on a visitor’s visa, except for Australians, Apply for extensions at any NZIS office (see at any Apply for extensions the website). the Office Finder on Work Visa & Working Holiday Scheme as proof of ongoing financial self-support. ongoing of as proof or to a maximum of 12 months in the country. 12 months or to a maximum of assessedApplications are on a case-by-case will need to meet such basis; visitors criteria VISA EXTENSIONS up visas for stays can be extended of Visitors’ one 18-month period, within to nine months essed elsewhere in the world. essed in elsewhere processed in Australia or certain South Pacific processed certain in Australia or South Pacific countries (eg Samoa, Fiji), or NZ$130 if proc- visa before entering NZ.Visas come with three NZ.Visas come with three entering visa before standard if validity and cost NZ$100 months’ Japan, the Netherlands and the USA. the Netherlands and Japan, departure from NZ. Nations in this group from NZ. Nations in this group departure include Canada, France, Germany, Ireland, been prepaid) and a passport valid for three and a passport valid for three been prepaid) their planned of beyond the date months they have an onward ticket, sufficient an onward ticket, funds they have to support their stay (NZ$1000 per month, accommodation has or NZ$400 per month if visa-waiver agreements with NZ don’t need a agreements visa-waiver provided months, visa up to three for stays of have no criminal convictions). UK citizens no criminal convictions). have don’t need a visa either and can stay in the six months. country for up to Citizens of Australia don’t need a visaCitizens of to visit they (provided NZ and can stay indefinitely overseas; consult the website. consult overseas; Visitor’s Visa (NZIS; .govt.nz) diplomatic missions overseas, travel agents agents travel overseas, missions diplomatic or through the VISAS NZ from available Visa forms are application lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY p399), lookintothepossibilities fortempo- ment agencies), broken downintoregions, health, teaching, volunteer workandrecruit- tunities invariousfields(agriculture, creative, local work possibilities. other travellers are thebestsourcesof infoon Backpacker publications,hostel managers and Information ditions or exploitative pay. priority ifyouencounter con- unsatisfactory worthy opportunities–yourwellbeingisthe will notalwaysbeeasy.Huntaroundfor work inNZbutfindingsomethingsuitable resort websites (p83) for opportunities. qualified, skiorsnowboardinstructing.Check ing, skitowoperationand,ifyou’re properly towns includesbartending, waiting,clean- year-round. available lers tofindwork.Otheragriculturalworkis hostels or holiday parksoften helptravel- spective employers directly; local otherwise, (Alexandra andRoxburgh). Approach pro- Otago (around Blenheim)andCentral (Tapawera Marlborough andGoldenBay), South IslandpickinglocationsincludeNelson isfromDecembertoMay.ing season Prime pick (perbin,bucket orkilogram).Thepick- You’rehigh. usuallypaidbyhowmuch you toil–turnoverphysically taxing of workers is arecult’. Rates around$10to$15anhourfor ‘Thepayisbad,buttheworkdiffi- said, summer toearlyautumn.As anoptimistonce and otherfruitveg from are harvested hectaresThirty thousand of apples,kiwifruit vesting isprimeshort-term workforvisitors. work agency to get started. telemarketing. Register withalocal office- office-based workinIT,banking,financeand orskiresorts,picking, farming),hospitality work around,mainlyinagriculture (fruit rary employment.There’s plentyof casual 400 Kiwi Careers Kiwi There are manypossibilitiesforshort-term Winter workatskiresorts andtheirservice fruitpicking,pruningandhar-Seasonal If youhave approved been foraWHS(see IETR • Wr ••Work DIRECTORY

(www.kiwicareers.govt.nz) listsoppor- hriutrl work. horticultural focusingonseasonal vides asimilarservice, jb listed. jobs of networks,withthousands NZ job-search runs an employment service viaitsweb- runs anemploymentservice a database of of thousands a database casualjobs. It payments byemployers –aprocesscalledPay deductedwill besubjecttoincometax, from of travellers, anyKiwidollars earnedinNZ There isno escapingit!Forthevastmajority Paying Tax to10workingdays takes eight be issued. ment noIR595.AnIRDnumbernormally functiontofinddocu- thesearch website –use the number. Downloadtheapplicationformfrom Department(IRD) anInlandRevenue obtain Travellers paidworkinNZmust undertaking IRD Number possibilities. other lists job vacanciesinBBHhostels andafew Hostels Backpacker site, whiletheNoticeBoardslinkon accommodation. ing forworkers, rates of payandnearby ofgives details employers thecontact look- while 7020; [email protected]; Private Bag 7020; [email protected]; Private 1932, Dunedin) the theIRDwebsite,For more orcontact infosee of departure (egairticket copies)totheIRD. return,mit itwithyourtax alongwithproof (documentnoIR50)formandsub- Zealand a RefundApplication–People New Leaving refundify foratax whenyouleave. Complete on aworkingholidayscheme), youmayqual- will alsobededucted fromyour pay packet. (1.2%) Scheme levy Accident Compensation incomes.ANZ to $60,000and39%forhigher then33%up $38,000 ($730grossperweek), ratestax are upto 19.5%forannualsalaries As (PAYE). YouEarn NZincome Standard Base Backpackers Base Backpackers WorkNZ Seasonal If youvisitNZandworkforashorttime(eg Inland Revenue Non-Resident Centre Non-Resident Inland Revenue Inland Revenue Seek Seek (www.seek.co.nz)

Pick NZ

(BBH; www.bbh.co.nz/travellers) Department Department (www.seasonalwork.co.nz) (www.stayatbase.com/work) isoneof thebiggest

(www.picknz.co.nz) lonelyplanet.com (www.ird.govt.nz) ( %

Budget . pro- 03-467 has

TRANSPORT 401 03-450 9031; www.queenstown 03-358 5029; www.christchurch % 03-486 2879; www.dnairport.co.nz) % % (CHC; (ZQN; (DUD; The high seasonfor flights into NZ is dur- AIR Dunedin Queenstown the Auckland, on the North Island, receives most traffic, though Wellington is closer to South Island: the swarming with inbound tourists – if you want year (eg to fly at a particularly popular time of in advance. Christmas), book well with ing summer (December to February), the over on fares a premium slightly of less and (October/November shoulder months The low season tal- generally March/April). (June months lies with the winter to August), though this is still a busy time for airlines fer- powder hounds. rying ski bunnies and Airports & Airlines airports handle On the South Island, three flights: international Christchurch Passport it comes to when no restrictions are There a NZ. If you have citizens entering foreign passport and visa (or don’t require current be fine. one; see p399), you should competing airlines serv- a number of There’s to choose fares icing NZ and a wide variety of Europe flying in from Asia, from if you’re you’ll or North America, though ultimately still pay a lot for a flight unless you jet in popularity NZ’s inordinate from Australia. activities mean year-round of and abundance year airports can be that almost any time of in both domestic and international termi- and international in both domestic may find customs procedures nals, and you the has One procedure time-consuming. more Screening’, ‘Advance Passenger Orwellian title that used documents to whereby a system down in NZ you touched after be checked before now checked (passport, visa etc) are all your sure you board your flight – make documentation order so your check-in is in is stress-free. airport.co.nz) -airport.co.nz)

THINGS CHANGE… is particu- information in this chapter The Check directly larly vulnerable to change. agent to make with the airline or a travel (and ticket you understand how a fare sure of the you may buy) works and be aware for international security requirements in details given The Shop carefully. travel. as point- should be regarded this chapter for your own not a substitute ers and are research. up-to-date careful, Air 401 Air

Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked can be booked and rail tickets Flights, tours Sea 405 Sea Around Getting 405 Air 405 Bicycle 406 Boat 406 Bus & Motorcycle Car Hitching412 Local Transport 412 Train 405 407 412 Getting There & Away There Getting Country the Entering 401 401 New Zealand’s location in peaceably isolated and the uncool scramble to get to the luggage to the luggage and the uncool scramble to get instability carousel Recent global has first. security in increased in NZ airports, resulted forward affair, with only the usual customs (seedeclarations to endure Customs, p399) ENTERING THE COUNTRY a straight-Disembarkation generally in NZ is GETTING THERE & AWAY online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings. with a long-haul flight to get there. With good there. with a long-haul flight to get around airline and bus networks, travelling taxing.less the country is much travel from Australia, you have to contend to contend you have from Australia, travel

CONTENTS Transport a distant patch of the South Pacific is a major is a major the South Pacific of a distant patch you drawcard, but it also means that unless TRANSPORT .com.au; hub Kingsford-Smith Airport, Airport, .com.au; hubKingsford-Smith Sydney) .auckland-airport.co.nz) tional Airport, tional Airport, Jakarta) Interna- www.garuda-indonesia.com; hubSoekarno-Hatta tional Airport) www.malaysiaairlines.com; hubKualaLumpur Interna- .cathaypacific.com; hubHongKongInternational Airport) .airpacific.com; hubNadiAirport, Fiji) Qantas Polynesian Blue .flypacificblue.com; hubBrisbane Airport) Pacific Blue OzJet Airlines Malaysia Air Korean Jetstar Indonesia Garuda Emirates Pacific Cathay Air Pacific Air NewZealand Argentinas Aerolineas for diallingfromwithin NZ only): and 0508phonenumbers mentionedhere are tions includethefollowing(note that0800 that connectNZwithinternational destina- America, eastern Asia andthePacific. Airlines which fliestorunwaysacrossEurope,North NZ’s ownoverseas carrierisAir NewZealand, ZEALAND NEW AIRLINES FLYING TO&FROM Wellington Auckland 402 ates.com; hubDubaiInternational Airport) International Airport) 3675; www.aerolineas.com.ar; hubBuenosAires Ezeiza .com; hub Melbourne International .com; hubMelbourne Airport) -airport.co.nz) www.polynesianblue.com; hub Brisbane www.polynesianblue.com; hub Brisbane Airport) International .au; hubMelbourne Airport) www.airnz.co.nz; hubAucklandInternational Airport) .koreanair.com; hubIncheonInternationalAirport, Seoul) Pay viacredit cardorcash. before youboardyourflight.at theairport butmustbepaidseparatelyairline tickets, age). The taxisnotincludedinthe priceof two to11,free forthoseundertwoyearsof aged 12andover (NZ$10forchildren aged plies whenleavingNZ,payablebyanyone An international taxofNZ$25ap- departure DEPARTURE TAX ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (airline codeOZ; (airlinecodeJQ; (airlinecodeQF; (airlinecodeEK; (AKL; (airlinecodeFJ; (airlinecodeKE; (airlinecodeDJ; (WLG; (airlinecodeCX; % (airlinecodeDJ; (airlinecodeNZ; (airlinecodeMH; % (airline codeGA; 0800 247767,09-2750789; www % 435 10 www.wellington 5100; 04-385 % % (airlinecodeAR; % % 06-351 4415;www.ozjet.com 0800 800995;www.jetstar % 0800 808767;www.qantas % 0508 364728;www.emir 0800 800178;www % 09-914 2000;www 0800 670000;www % % 0800 800454;www % % 0800 670000; 0800 737000; 0800 777747; 09-366 1855; % 09-379 .com) www.singaporeair.com; hubChangiInternational Airport) tional Airport) 377 3886;www.thaiairways.com; hubBangkokInterna- ted with within asinglecontinent,though isgenerallytinents. Backtracking permit- con- don’t backtrackwhenflyingbetween kilometre extents ornumberof stopsand withintheprescribedgo, aslongyoustay can goanywhere theparticipatingairlines ally ayear)inwhich tolooptheplanet.You .oneworldalliance.com) Star Alliance together bythethree biggest airlinealliances, can bereal bargains. They’re generally put the world,round-the-world(RTW) tickets If you’re flyingtoNZfromtheothersideof INTERCONTINENTAL (RTW)TICKETS other advice. useful deals, strategies foravoiding layovers and a travel agent withthelowdownonspecial on specifieddates, butare nosubstitute for you’re doingasimpleone-wayorreturn trip Automated onlineticket workwellif sales AirwaysInternational Thai Airlines Singapore www.bruneiair.com; Begawan hubBandarSeri Airport) Royal BruneiAirlines Air Brokers fares, withthefollowing start websites: For onlineticket bookings, includingRTW SITES ONLINE TICKET stopovers you can take. tickets, there are restrictions onhowmany options inthePacific islands. As withRTW NZ, NorthAmericaandAsia, withstopover a combinationof airlinestoconnectAustralia, ticket butcovers amore limited region, using A CirclePacific ticket issimilar toaRTW CIRCLE PACIFIC TICKETS UK your you todevise own itinerary. expensive thanairlineRTW fares butallow are p402). These oftenwebsites (see more together byatravel agent orRTW-specialist details. restrictions; thewebsitescertain see for specialises in cheaper tickets. ToflyLA–Samoa–Auckland– specialises in cheapertickets. Tickets Bargain RTW tickets fromaround start An alternative typeof RTW ticket isoneput  , andgive youalimited period(usu- 700 ex-UK,US$1850 ex-USA. (www.airbrokers.com) ThisUScompany (www.airbrokers.com)

(www.staralliance.com) (airlinecodeSQ; (airlinecodeBI; and Skyteam (airline codeTG; lonelyplanet.com , % Oneworld % (www.skyteam 09-303 2129; 09-302 1524; %

(www 09- TRANSPORT

Tokyo 403 2722 7378) % (

has offices in 02-236 0262; www.statravel % Phoenix Services 6737 7188; www.statravel.com.sg; Bangkok ( %

(the main cause of human-induced of human-induced (the main cause 2 Singapore

03-5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp) Hong Kong’s travel market can be unpre- can market Hong Kong’s travel Common one-way fares to Auckland Common one-way fares Travel STA Asia Australia Air New Zealand and Qantas a net- operate NZ cities with most flights linking key work of quite cities, while gateway Australian major airlines include NZ other international a few routes. Asia-Pacific and Australia on their Hong Kong, and US$775 from Tokyo. Going Hong Kong, and US$775 from Tokyo. from Auckland fares the other way, return NZ$1350, and cost around to Singapore around NZ$1600 to Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, the Hong Kong and Tokyo, depending on airline. some- are dictable, bargains but excellent times available. is recommended. .co.th; % cities. Asian major Most Asian countries offer fairly competi- countries offer Most Asian deals, with Bangkok, Singapore air-fare tive and Hong Kong being the best places to shop discount tickets. around for cost approximately US$650 from Singapore, US$650 cost approximately US$850 from Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok and (www.flightcentre.com) (www.flightcentre.com) (www.roundtheworld GETTING •• Air THERE & AWAY (www.cheapestflights.co.uk) Cheap (www.cheapestflights.co.uk) (www.travel.com.au) Good Australian (www.cheapflights.com) Informative site (www.cheapflights.com) (www.travelonline.co.nz) Good place to (www.travelonline.co.nz) (www.flights.com) International site for (www.flights.com) (www.travelocity.com) US site that allows (www.statravel.com) Prominent in interna- (www.expedia.com) Microsoft’s (www.expedia.com) travel site; good Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partnersLonely Planet, together with in- in the travel www.lonelyplanet.com. information check out our website: For more 740 in the NZ winter. 740 in the dustry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its all of its Lonely Planet offsets dustry, support scheme run by climatecare.org. the carbon offset staff and author travel. Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow travellers to offset the the to offset allow travellers use ‘carbon calculators’ that other websites and Climatecare.org for with financial contributions to sustainable responsible they are gases of greenhouse level global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan schemes that reduce travel and Uganda. Carbon Offset Schemes Offset Carbon Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO generates travel form of motorised much every Pretty Flying & Climate Change Flying & Climate CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL CHANGE CLIMATE travel upon, and air rely that humans to the ecosystems is a serious threat change Climate as a overall, travel, regards problem. Lonely Planet contributor to the is the fastest-growing personal impact to limit our on global a responsibility we all have but believes global benefit, warming. climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer of the sheer not just because far and away the worst offenders, change) but planes are climate the at- gases high into greenhouse but because they release travel, distances they allow us to and two people taking flight between Europe frightening: a return statistics are The mosphere. gas and electricity household’s change as an average to climate as much the US will contribute a whole year. consumption over  flights; cheap fares and an easy-to-search database. and an easy-to-searchflights; cheap fares Respected handling direct operator flights, with sites for South Africa. NZ, Australia, the UK, the USA, Canada and for USA-related flights. for USA-related worldwide flights from the UK; get in early for the bargains. worldwide flights from the UK; get in early for the site; look up fares and flights to/from the country. and flights to/from the site; look up fares Travelocity Travel.com.au Travel Online flights.com) This excellent site allows you to build your flights.com) own trip A six-stop from the UK with up to six stops. trip including Asia, Australia, NZ and the USA costs from UK Travel STA Roundtheworldflights.com Flights.com Flight Centre International Expedia Cheapest Flights Cheap Flights Christchurch–Sydney–Bangkok–Hong Kong–LA costs (excluding taxes). around US$2000 lonelyplanet.com with specials, airline information and flight searches from and UK/Ireland. the USA tional student travel but you don’t have to be a student; sites. STA site is linked to worldwide you to search fares (in US dollars) from/to practicallyyou to search fares anywhere. check worldwide flights from NZ. check worldwide flights TRANSPORT www.flightcentre.com.au) Melbourne, and Hobart, Brisbane,Cairns Christchurchflies between andSydney, t Vancouver. to around NZ$1200 toTorontoandNZ$1100 C$2000. One-way fares at fromNZstart west coast.From Toronto, fares costaround C$1600andC$1900viatheUS cost between inall has offices major cities. nationalstudenttravelCanada’s agency and CUTS Travel sold intheUSA. thanthose about 10%higher air-ticket sellers (consolidators) tend tobe year-round. Vancouver has direct Aucklandand between flights before continuingtoNZ.AirNewZealand a UScitysuch asLosAngeles orHonolulu Toronto andVancouver stoppingin flights frommainlandUSA,withmost lar tothose areThe airroutes flownfromCanada simi- Canada around thecountry,is option, alsowithdozensof officesstrewn ( branchAustralian capital-city of discounting. results inevitably however, insome tasty year-round. competition, Theintense asthisisapopularroute seasons, between usually notasignificantdifference inprice to anAustralianeast-coastcity.There’s NZ$270 andNZ$300foraone-wayticket itinerary. this but youmaynotget thecheapest fares with and outof Christchurch tosave backtracking, AU$300 one-way.YoucanflyintoAuckland More commonpricesrange fromAU$260 to Auckland, Christchurch orWellington. rier fromeitherSydneyorMelbourne to AU$200 foraone-wayfare onabudget car- gods smilinguponyou,youmaypayunder the Gold Coast. to manyother Australian cities. tions onthedomesticVirgin Bluenetwork withconnec- Australia’s east-coastcapitals, Auckland, WellingtonandChristchurch and line Virgin Blue,offers direct between flights 404 % The airfares discount soldbyCanadian For somereasonably pricedfares, tryan From key NZcities,you’llpaybetween If youbookearly,shoparoundandhave the budgetQantas’ subsidiary,Jetstar, Pacific Blue,asubsidiaryof budget air- Return fares fromVancouver toAuckland 134 782;www.statravel.com.au) ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING

( % 866 2469762;www.travelcuts.com) . Flight Centre . Anothergood (

% STA Travel 133 133; is

international.nl) start at start around weekend broadsheet newspapers,weekend broadsheet in agencies appearinthetravel pages of the London. Advertisements formanytravel .nouvelles-frontieres.fr) .com/vdm) connections.fr) make stopovers incountriessuch asIndia, the USA.IfyouflyviaAsia youcanoften toNZgoviaAsiafrom theUK,flights or Depending onwhich airlineyoutravel with UK &Ireland Voyageurs duMonde Voyages Usit Connect Frontières Nouvelles  at start around www.statravel.de) branch of the Berlin is NZ$1800 usually costbetween and NZ$2400. European hubssuch asParis andFrankfurt Asian Returnairfares capitals. fromNZtokey toNZtravelpads, mostflights viaoneof the twolaunching European cities.Fromthese NZ, bothwithextensive connectionstoother and departure toandfrom pointsforflights Frankfurt andLondonare themajor arrival Continental Europe mainland andNZare to/fromwest-coast USA, theNorth American between Most flights USA Trailfinders STA Travel Flight Centre for return fares to London. NZ$2500 andNZ$3000 expect topaybetween ataround to Aucklandstart Out, islands. Pacific New York,LosAngeles, Honoluluandsundry other direction, stopover possibilitiesinclude Thailand, Singapore andAustralia;inthe magazine go upbyasmuch as30%.FromNZyoucan that June,Julyandmid-December fares can 1200. Recommended companies: Holland International In Germany, goodtravelIn Germany, agencies include In France,return fares fromParis from start A solidoptionintheDutch travel industry Typical one-way/return fares fromLondon Discount airtravel isbigbusinessin Popular agencies intheUK: inthe ( % ( TNT ( % Evening Standard . FromAmsterdam, return fares % 0871 2300040;www.statravel.co.uk) . Returnfares fromFrankfurt 0845 0585858;www.trailfinders.co.uk) . 0870 4990040; www.flightcentre.co.uk)   1700. 1400. ( ( ( % % % STA Travel

( % 0825 000825; www 0892 235656; www.vdm 0825 082525; www.usit 0900-8858; www.holland lonelyplanet.com (

andinthefree %  550/750; note 030-2859 8264; Time TRANSPORT , 405 South Pacific South Pacific 03-218 9129; www % ( 0800 777 000, 04-904 5130; www 0800 777 000, 04-904 0800 247 937, 03-738 0524; www 0800 247 937, 03-738 % % 0800 588 885, 03-525 8725; www 0800 505 005; www.soundsair.co.nz) 0800 505 005; www.soundsair.co.nz) ( ( 1800 262 1234; www.airnewzealand.com) 0800 808 767; www.qantas.co.nz) Joins the 0800 808 767; www.qantas.co.nz) % % ( ( % % ( ( The pass involves purchasing coupons for purchasing The pass involves Air New Zealand the offers .capitalair.co.nz) Flies regularly between Wellington and Flies regularly .capitalair.co.nz) Golden Bay. Takaka in Hops across Cook Strait between Wellington and Picton Hops across Cook Strait between between Wellington and up to 16 times per day; also flies and Nelson. Kaikoura, Blenheim heads. The country is popular with cyclists un- and relatively because it’s clean, green accommoda- cheap crowded, and has lots of tion (including camping) and easily accessible in good generally The roads are freshwater. valid for selected journeys within NZ, and be- Pacific tween NZ, Australia and a number of to nonresi- islands. The pass is only available these countries, and must be issued dents of issued in conjunction are outside NZ. Passes (with any airline) ticket with an international that ticket. of valid for the life and are domestic flights (one-way from NZ$120 to NZ$408, depending on distance), or flights to/ islands Australian cities or Pacific from major including Fiji, New Caledonia and Tonga, and as far afield as the Cook Islands and Samoa to NZ$834). (one-way from NZ$400 BICYCLE in NZ, particularly Touring cyclists proliferate the roads and trails run thick summer – over with aerodynamic with fluoro-clad creatures .airwestcoast.co.nz) Flies between Greymouth and Wel- Flies between Greymouth .airwestcoast.co.nz) (via Westport). lington Soundsair Stewart Island Flights Air Passes With discounting being the norm these days, airlines now serving budget and a number of as well as the Pacific route the trans-Tasman air passes isn’t as red-hot islands, the value of the past. as in Air West Coast Air2there.com Connects.air2there.com) destinations across Cook Strait, and North, Palmerston including Wanganui, Wellington Blenheim. Capital Air Qantas conjunction airlines under of small affiliated with a couple Link.Zealand Air New the banner dots between key tourism like centres Auckland, Rotorua, and Queenstown. Wellington, Christchurch .stewartislandflights.com) Flies between Invercargill and Stewart Island. Airpass 800 781 4040; www % (

0800 737 000; www.airnz.co.nz) 0800 737 000; www.airnz.co.nz) STA Travel STA 0508 247 248, 03-305 0209; www.air % GETTING AROUND •• Air ( % ( has offices all over the USA. has offices over all

Several small-scale regional operators pro- Several operators small-scale regional There are no passenger liners operating no passenger liners are There Return tickets to NZ from the US west coast to NZ from the US west Return tickets San Francisco is the ticket consolidator consolidator is the ticket San Francisco chathams.co.nz) Serviceschathams.co.nz) Chatham Islands to the remote and Auckland. from Wellington, Christchurch Offers flights between 25 domestic destinations, in Air New Zealand Air Chathams the Chathams. Regional operators include include the Chathams. Regional operators the following: vide essential transport services to the small Island and as Stewart outlying islands such most of the country. Australia-based Qantas the country. Australia-based most of urban areas. also flies between main The country’s major domestic carrier, Air domestic carrier, Air The country’s major New Zealand, has an aerial network covering Airlines in New Zealand AIR between time to get limited Those who have a net- of the most NZ’s attractions can make flights. intra- and inter-island work of no easy task. no GETTING AROUND to/from NZ and finding a berth on a cargo to/from NZ and finding a berth on a cargo less enjoying the experience) is ship (much Fiji, October to November is a peak departure is a peak departure to November Fiji, October startingseason to spin in that as cyclones are the woods. neck of rides or crewing on yachts. Try asking around Try on yachts. rides or crewing and sailing yacht marinas, and at harbours, the best months April are and clubs. March From to Australia. to look for boats heading It’s possible (though by no means easy or safe) your way between NZ and Australia, to make islands, by hitching and some smaller Pacific NZ to the US west coast are around NZ$2000; are NZ to the US west coast York NZ$2500. to New SEA start around US$1100/1300 in the NZ win- the east coast start from at fares ter/summer; from US$1700 in both seasons. Return fares capital of America, although America, deals some good capital of York and New in Los Angeles, can be found other big cities. lines offer flights via various Pacific islands flights Pacific via various lines offer Cook Islands). Tahiti, (Hawaii, with the bulk routed through Los Angeles but through Los Angeles bulk routed with the air- Some throughsome going San Francisco. lonelyplanet.com .statravel.com) TRANSPORT options include the post-Christmas sales and options include thepost-Christmas sales trip isn’talwaysas easyasitsounds.Other shapeforalongroad that’s ingoodenough bring yourownover), butfinding something bike buyingaused off (assuming youcan’t the costquicklyclimbs.Arguably you’re better touringgear, and a helmetandotheressential toget thenyoustillneed panniers,However, can get acheap oneforaround$400to$500. anywhere you from$700to$1600,though brid bike bike orrigidmountain you’llpay for newermodelsare For adecenthy- high. Island’s citiesandlarger towns,butprices Bicycles canbereadily intheSouth bought Purchase day. per from $10to$20perhourand$30$45 dation placestotheirguests–are anywhere counted fees orfreebies offered byaccommo- bikesor mountain –notincluding thedis- offeredRates bymostoutfitsforrenting road Hire and packing required. airline forcostsandthedegree of dismantling it byplanewithinNZ,check withtherelevant carry for a surcharge. they have storage spaceforbikes, which they bus companies,ontheotherhand,make sure charge upto$10.Someof thesmallershuttle (meaning bikes maynotbeallowedon) and take bicyclesonlyona‘spaceavailable’ basis port willfindthatmajor buslinesandtrains publictrans- on dulldays.Cyclistswhouse to have reflective or gear forcyclingatnight safety helmet(orriskafine);it’salsogood theboxedsee text, p290. gold-mining heartlandof –fordetails, Otago path alonganoldrailwaylineintotheformer popular expeditionistofollowanupgraded have theirshare of Oneincreasingly devotees. butinlandroutes coastline willbeahighlight, by yourimagination.Cyclingsomeof the shops. repair available inthemaincentres, asare bicycle and cyclinggear (torent orbuy)are readily flats andlowstoaccompanythehighs. Bikes hard goingattimes,butthere are expansive soaked WestCoast).Themanyhillsmake for too cold(exceptontheSouthIsland’srain- nick, andtheclimate generally nottoohotor 406 If importingyourownbike ortransporting The choice of itinerariesislimited only By lawallcyclistsmustwearanapproved ETN RUD • ot AROUND••Boat GETTING routes orcovering alotof groundonthe Greymouth/Hokitika, TeGreymouth/Hokitika, Anauand Queenstown/Wanaka. Nelson, Dunedin,Invercargill,Picton, ing toChristchurch, throughouttheSouthIsland,includ- .co.nz) Has services ad Kaikoura. and betweenHanmer andthree weeklyservices Christchurch, and betweenHanmerSprings .com) Providesservices via Pass.Arthur’s .co.nz) toHokitika/Greymouth Travelsfrom Christchurch Suh Island. South can drive youtojustabout anywhere onthe Coach Lines armcalled travel andsightseeing .intercity.co.nz) ( business. local aparkingspotoutsideprominent comprise The bus‘terminals’ insmallerplacesusually be expensive, tedious andtime-consuming. ofstart/end variouswalkingtracks),butitcan far reaches of theSouthIsland(including the transportingyoutothe withservices ganised, Bus travel inNZisrelatively easyandwellor- BUS p376). (see andthetownofBluff ObanonStewart Island negotiates thewidthof Foveaux Straitbetween p132),andthepassenger ferry that Picton (see Wellingtonand across CookStraitbetween tions includetheinter-island ferries thatchug the country.ObviousSouthIslandexcep- waterally nolong-distance transportaround NZ maybeanislandnationbutthere’s virtu- BOAT be heavily discounted. midyear stocktakes, whennewish cyclescan Hanmer Connection Reefton. and Springs turn-off,Maruia running viatheHanmerSprings andWestport, betweenChristchurch aservice .co.nz) Offers East WestCoaches Cook Connection Coast to Shuttles Atomic Abel Tasman Coachlines South Island include: Tasman National Parks. and Abel GoldenBay,andKahurangi Nelson, Motueka, .abeltasmantravel.co.nz) Traversesthetarmacbetween Lk Tekapo. Lake betweenMtCook,Twizeland Triangulates connect.co.nz) % Smaller regional operators runningkey The dominantbuscompanyis Christchurch

, which alsohasanextra-comfort (www.newmanscoach.co.nz) 03-3651113, ( % ( ( % % ( 0800 800847;www.coast2coast % ( 03-349 0697;www.atomictravel % 0800 266526;www.cook 03-789 6251;eastwest@orcon ( 0800 242663;www.atsnz % Dunedin 03-548 0285;www lonelyplanet.com 03-4717143;www . InterCity Newmans InterCity InterCity TRANSPORT 407 0800 222 Tranz- , %

( (adult/child $729/488) TranzAlpine Flexi-Pass is valid for one year and al- is valid for one year and InterCity bus travel, plus one Inter- bus travel, plus InterCity plus and ferry, As above for bus ); the pass costs $504/757/931 for ); the pass costs (adult/child $585/392) Describing a loop that 2-in-One 2-in-One 3-in-One (adult/child $565/379) From Auckland to (adult/child $565/379) From Auckland

Overlander or InterCity fares vary widely depending on fares InterCity More structured dual-island InterCity dual-island InterCity structured More five/10/15 travel days. travel five/10/15 Coastal The kitchen sink of coach passes. The kitchen sink of coach The best way to explore NZ in depth is to The best way to explore allows you your own transport, which have flexible itinerary. your own leisurely, to create and campervan-hire are rates car- Good-value consider not hard to track down; alternatively, wheels. of buying your own set Christchurch along the South or vice versa, including Milford Sound. Island’s West Coast and to or luxury economy no allocated are There a no-no. classes on NZ buses; smoking is Reservations Over holidays and public summer, school popular holidays, book well ahead on more few have should At other times you routes. service,problems accessing your preferred but on catching plans rely travel if your long-term a particular bus, book at least a day or two be safe. ahead just to booked are the tickets and how availability The best prices are (online or via an agent). weeks a few online, booked available generally in advance. CAR & MOTORCYCLE islander ferry crossing (Wellington–Picton or vice versa); or vice versa); crossing (Wellington–Picton ferry islander travel days. for five/10/15 the pass costs $399/619/871 (choose from the one train journey is purchased without penalty. The pass inture time, from a mini- travel blocks of five-hour of ($164) up to a maximum hours 15 mum of block each cost of ($585) – the average 60 hours you buy. You hours the more becomes cheaper time. more needcan top up the pass if you passes: Pathfinder Trail Blazer Total New Zealand Experience Seat Classes Travelpass Travelpass named The appropriately network; you on the InterCity in any direction) and can you like on and off wherever can get depar- before bookings up to two hours change starts/finishes at Auckland, via a South Island circuit. starts/finishes via a South Island at Auckland, lows you to travel pretty much anywhere (and anywhere much pretty lows you to travel 146; www.flexipass.co.nz)

03-471 7143; Dunedin (adult/child $235/157) 0800 244 844, 03-443 9122; 0508 458 835, 03-358 8355; 03-365 1113, % % 0800 339 966; www.travelpass.co.nz) (adult/child $169/113) Picton to ( ( (adult/child $355/238) Christchurch 0800 277 483, 03-437 0753; www 0800 277 483, 03-437 03-249 8059; www.toplinetours GETTING AROUND •• Car & Motorcycle % offers bus passes covering the the bus passes covering offers

03-342 8055; www.knightrider.co.nz) www.knightrider.co.nz) 03-342 8055; ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) % % ( 0800 483 262, 03-249 7777; www ( Christchurch % % ( ( % % ( ( Travelpass

.scenicshuttle.co.nz) Drives between Te Anau and Inver- Drives Te between .scenicshuttle.co.nz) Manapouri.via cargill www.southernlinkkbus.co.nz) Roams across most of the www.southernlinkkbus.co.nz) South Island, taking in Christchurch, Grey- Nelson, Picton, among others. mouth, Queenstown and Dunedin, www.wanakaconnexions.co.nz) Links Wanaka, Queens- and Dunedin. town, Christchurch, Invercargill .co.nz) Connects Te Anau and Queenstown. Anau and Connects.co.nz) Te Queenstown via the West Coast; also available ex-Nelson ($125/84). ($145/97) and ex-Greymouth Christchurch to Queenstown plus Milford Sound and Mt Christchurch to Queenstown plus Milford Sound and Cook. .tracknet.net) Daily track transport (Milford, Routeburn, Anau, Hollyford, Kepler etc) between Queenstown, Te West and the Milford Fiordland Sound, Invercargill, Coast. Low-cost routes across the South (and North)Low-cost routes Island, from in between. and most places Nelson to Invercargill ‘days’ of travel, and are valid for a year. valid for and are travel, ‘days’ of combines bus travel with a ferry crossing, plus with a ferry combines bus travel purchased for are Passes if desired. train travel South Island, InterCity’s pan-NZ ‘multitrans- South Island, InterCity’s port’ NATIONWIDE PASSES NATIONWIDE beyond the considering moving If you’re Southern Discovery Milford Bound Adventurer InterCity South Island passes:InterCity West Coast Passport SOUTH ISLAND PASSES there may be an additional reservation charge may be an additional reservationthere charge the agent). ($3 per sector, depending on buses shuttle (rather than, say, the convenient the island). There’s of much buses that cover and VIP members; a 15% discount for YHA you go, but they lock you into using InterCity you go, but they lock you into using InterCity www.intercity.co.nz) InterCity Bus Passes InterCity Wanaka Connexions Tracknet Topline Tours Southern Link KBus Scenic Shuttle Naked Bus Knightrider lonelyplanet.com Runs a nocturnal service from Christchurch Invercargill to be seen… to Hasselhoff nowhere via Dunedin. David to Greymouth via Queenstown, Milfordto Greymouth Sound and the West Coast. whole South Island. If you’re crossing a lot of crossing a lot of whole South Island. If you’re than paying as ground, passes can be cheaper TRANSPORT companies, pricesvarying withtimeof year, isolation. remote beach/mountain/valley anddream in outa oryoucanseek around $30pernight, parkwithpowered sites for or campervan towns of anysizehave acampingground crank uptheAC/DC asloudhell! Most leave thetrampledtourist trailsbehind and andyoucan ness. It’sflexibleandaffordable, along behind you. bikes barbecuescruisingtain andportable RV) packed withliberated travellers, moun- (akamobile home,motor campervan a shinywhiteNZ roadandyou’lllikely see Check yourrear-view mirroronanyfar-flung CAMPERVAN Hire fuel atTwizelor Tekapo).Lake Sound (fillupatTe Anau)andMtCook(buy them –placesinthiscategory includeMilford you’re better getting off fuelbefore youreach charge and asmallfortunetofillyourtank around $1.50.More remote destinationsmay cheaply inNZ,withper-litre costsaveraging but basicallypetrol(gasoline)isn’tpumped fuel capability.Pricesvaryfromplacetoplace, pliers; ifyou’re ongasit’ssafer tohave dual LPG (gas)isnotalwaysstocked byruralsup- the well-knowninternational brandnames. with stations Fuel isavailable fromservice Fuel association. automobile (valid for12months) byyourhomecountry’s which willusuallybeissued onthespot anInternational DrivingPermituse (IDP), a certifiedtranslationwithyou.Alternatively, cence isn’tinEnglish, it’sagoodideatocarry home country’sdrivinglicence–ifyourli- International visitors their toNZcanuse Driving Licence ments with NZ’s AA. many of bodieshave these reciprocal agree- tions should bringtheirmembership cards– holiday parkstomotels and B&Bs). guidestoaccommodation(from and detailed excellent touringmaps breakdown services, 0800 500222;www.aa.co.nz) NZ’s Automobile Association(AA) 408 You can hire campervans fromassorted You canhire campervans aroundNZisbigbusi- Campervanning Members of foreign automobile associa- ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING Automobile Association Automobile provides emergency (AA;

% 24hr roadservice

.keacampers.com/newzealand) your options is distance –ifyouwanttotravelyour optionsisdistance The mainthingtoremember whenassessing most competitive inChristchurch andPicton. around). OntheSouthIsland,carrental is discounted rates aslow$19perday,soshop of specialdealscomeandgo(we’ve heardof NZ istorrid–rates tend tobevariableandlots car-rentalCompetition between companiesin often even infighting sees lower rates. to aslow$60/100/120inwinter; industry are around$200/300/340perday,dropping rental firmsfortwo-/four-/six-berth vans shower. and atoilet sides theextraspace,usuallycontain of and,be- trucks(andsimilarlysluggish) Four- are thesize tosix-berth campervans two-berth vansincludeshower andtoilet. dinner isdone‘n’dusted. ‘superior’ Larger latter transforming intoadoublebedwhen mini-kitchen the andfold-outdiningtable, A smallvanfortwopeopletypicallyhasa Maui Campers Kea Britz and lengthof rental. Major operators: tobe, how bigyouwantyourhome-on-wheels fr renters. for times comesless protective legalstructure are often older,andwithlessformality some- restrictions,may comewithserious vehicles sometimes halfthe price–butthecheap rates almost alwayscheaper thanthebigboys– the regional chapters are inthisguide. These cations alsodapplethe Local rental firmsandwith limited lo- Thrifty Hertz Europcar Budget Avis towns andlarger airports: fices oragents inmostSouthIslandcities, least 21years old– ask around. not all)companiesrequire drivers tobeat unlimitedfar, youneed kilometres. Some(but car.co.nz) .co.nz) .co.nz) CAR Over summer,rates offeredOver bythemain Sizable multinationalcompanies,withof- ( ( ( % ( % % % ( ( % % 0800 655111,09-5262800;www.avis.co.nz) ( 0800 831900,09-2759090;www.britz.co.nz) 0800 651080,09-2753013;www.maui.co.nz) % 0800 654321,03-5203044;www.hertz.co.nz) 0800 737070,03-3592720; www.thrifty 0800 283438,09-5297784; www.budget ( 0800 800115,03-3570920; www.europ % 0800 520052,09-4417833; www Yellow Pages lonelyplanet.com – see –see TRANSPORT 409 rents rents Low-cost, family- New Zealand Motorcycle New Zealand Motorcycle 03-348 1106; www.nzbike.com) %

( Spray-painted vans bedecked with vans bedecked with Spray-painted The customised ‘Swiss Army Knife of of customised ‘Swiss Army Knife The ‘The freedom to sleep around’ – loud, to sleep around’ – loud, freedom ‘The Most of the South Island’s motorcycle-hire South Island’s motorcycle-hire the Most of In Christchurch, sequent kilometre. Daily rates in main cities Daily rates sequent kilometre. out Yamaha, BMW, Honda, Suzuki, touring BMW, Honda, Suzuki, touring out Yamaha, per day. from $90 to $375 and enduro bikes rental length of bike, Rates vary with size of Softtail Davidson A Harley year. and time of at summer rental tops the list for a short-term $375 per day. The company can also arrange guided tours. customised or fully booked, MOTORCYCLE for mo- terrain Born to be wild? NZ has great the fickle weather torcycle touring, despite to bring tempted If you’re in some regions. your own motorcycle into NZ, be aware shipping that this will entail an expensive in the country of valid registration exercise, en Douanes origin and a Carnet de Passages (a customs document that identifies your motor vehicle). you can hire where in Christchurch, shops are anything from a little 50cc moped (aka nifty- fifty) for zipping around town to a throbbing and beyond. 750cc touring motorcycle Rentals & Tours typically start at around $65 per day for a typically start $65 per day for a at around car, and around Japanese compact, late-model (including GST, $85 for medium-sized cars Local and insurance). kilometres unlimited firms start at around $40 per day for the small- if you rent cheaper est option. It’s obviously low- often are there and for a week or more cards season discounts. Credit and weekend payment method. the usual are The flashpacker’s vehicle of choice. flashpacker’s vehicle The 0800 325 939, 03-359 4731; www.sleepervans.co.nz)0800 325 939, 03-359 % (

0800 246 870; www.wickedcampers.co.nz) 0800 216 171; www.escaperentals.co.nz) 0800 216 171; www.escaperentals.co.nz) 0800 803 580, 03-548 2852; % 0800 525 210, 09-377 5573; ( % 0800 772 237, 09-309 8777; www.spaceships.tv) ( % 0800 502 277, 09-303 3112; www 0800 502 277, 09-303 3112; % ( % ( ( 0800 939 597, 03-379 6897; www 0800 939 597, 03-379 6897; GETTING AROUND •• Car & Motorcycle % 0800 399 736, 09-374 4360; www.ezy 0800 399 736, 09-374 4360; 0800 399 736, 09-374 4360; www.jucy.co.nz) 0800 399 736, 09-374 4360; www.jucy.co.nz) ( % ( % % ( ( run business. Wicked Campers Jucy Spaceships Backpacker Sleeper Vans Backpacker Escape Rentals everything/everyone from Mr Spock to Sly Stone. everything/everyone original artwork on van exteriors, pitched squarely at young travellers after something differ- after artwork travellers at young original pitched squarely on van exteriors, ent. DVDs, TVs barbecues available for rent. and outdoor campervans’, with extrasDVD and CD players, roof racks and solar showers. including Rentals

Rental Cars

„ „ „ „ „ BACKPACKER VAN RENTALS VAN BACKPACKER players in the campervan budget and funky, well- slick deals several offering industry, are There (the kind to attractkitted-out travellers young, independent the larger, who would shun vehicles sleeping and cooking living, equipment, All companies offer box-on-wheels). traditional more day (from $29 per competitive are Rates tips. and travel assistance, and maps 24-hour roadside the following: Check out to February). from $70 per day December May to September; If you’re crossing between the North and If you’re The major companies offer a choice of of a choice companies offer The major Affordable, independent operators: www.rentalcars.co.nz) www.omegarentalcars.com) .co.nz) .apexrentals.co.nz) .acerentalcars.co.nz) so) per day free plus so many cents per sub- so) per day free either unlimited kilometres, or 100km (or or 100km (or kilometres, either unlimited transport a vehicle on the ferries, and is a and is a ferries, on the transport a vehicle pain-free exercise. (or insist) that you don’t take their vehicles their vehicles (or insist) that you don’t take you leave Instead, on the Cook Strait ferries. your car at either Wellington or Picton ter- minal and pick up another car once you’ve you paying to crossed the strait. This saves South Islands, most car-hire firms suggest firms suggest South Islands, most car-hire relocation specials on their websites, under websites, specials on their relocation Deals’ respectively). ‘Deals’ and ‘Hot (for example) and will offer an amazing one- (for example) and will offer and Thrifty sometimes list way deal (Budget If you’re lucky, an operator in Invercargill lucky, an operator in Invercargill If you’re back to Christchurch a vehicle may need to get Picton), but there are a variety of restrictions, restrictions, a variety of are Picton), but there are may apply (fees fee and a one-way drop-off a month or more). of for rentals waived often The big firms sometimes offer one-way rent- The big firms sometimes offer it in als (eg collect a car in Dunedin, leave Pegasus RentalPegasus Cars Omega Rental Cars Ezy Rentals Apex Ace lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT largest such outfit,with 10 locations. ( around $1000to $6000– auctions youcan pickupcheap cars from markets inChristchurch At (p238)sections. investigating –check outinformationoncar road mapsandeven camping gear. come complete withwater containers, tools, vehicles these oftenexpire onyou.Besides, the riskthattheymay it maybeworthtaking lars. Somebackpackers specialsare socheap pick upanoldcarforjustafew hundred dol- ellers theircars sell before moving on;youcan boards of backpacker places,where othertrav- option foracheap caristoscourthe notice easiest placefortravellers tobuyacar. Aneasy minutes. five you’ll buyalemonthatbreaks downevery it.Thedanger, ofyou sell isthat course, able toget backmostof yourmoney when or two-monthrental, andyoushould be a carascheap as(orcheaper than)aone- thecountry.Youcanoftento see pickup can beoneof thecheapest andbestways itattheendofcar thenselling yourtravels For longer and/orforgroups,buyinga stays Purchase p392. see Corporationscheme,Accident Compensation the fine print. roads–alwaysread (4WD)unsealed rough is often invalidated onbeaches andcertain windscreen) ortyres, andinsurancecoverage the costof damage toglass(includingthe taken asacredit-card bond,of around $900. often have acompulsoryinsuranceexcess, $200. Smalleroperators offering cheap rates around $1500or$2000to$150 ofpay intheevent anaccidentdownfrom This bringstheamountof excessyoumust for an‘insuranceexcessreduction’ policy. ditional dailyamounttotherental company ance policy,or(theusualoption)payanad- can take outyourowncomprehensive insur- (minor collisionsare commoninNZ),you amount of cashifyoudohave anaccident thanriskpayingoutalarge accident. Rather exactly whatyourliability of isintheevent an When itcomestorenting avehicle, know Insurance 410 % Car marketsCar andcarauctionsare alsoworth Most insuranceagreements won’tcover On theSouthIsland,Christchurch isthe For informationonthecountry’sno-fault 09-580 9360; www.turners.co.nz) ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING isthecountry’s Turners Auctions

468 469;www.vinz.co.nz) if youbringthecartoanAA-approved me- cheaper –it’sslightly bile inspectionservice garages willinspectacar for less. chanic. AAchecks are butmost thorough, Try the-spot inspections,ortheywillcometoyou. $130; you’llfindthematcarauctionsforon- will check acaryouintend tobuyforlessthan later on.Various car-inspection companies and maysave youalotof griefandrepair bills (such scamshave reported been inthepast) as they’llprotect youagainstanydodgyWoFs investmentwise –see Insurance, p392. vehicle inanaccidentthatisyourfault,alsoa surance, covering thecostof repairs toanother months ($236)orayear($324).Third-partyin- registration If needed, forsix canbepurchased Papers are toyoubymailwithin10days. sent form, which canbefiledatanypostoffice. days. Todoso,filloutaChange of Ownership .govt.nz) ently notify areand theseller legallyrequired toindepend- you buyacar. Totransfer registration, bothyou months butmustbelessthan28daysoldwhen ing thatthecarisroadworthy,validforsix a reasonable period.AWoFcertificate, prov- Fitness (WoF)andthattheregistration lastsfor into abuy-back arrangement witha caror a vehicleing andselling privately isto enter One wayof getting around thehasslesof buy- BUY-BACK DEALS motor running,headouton the highway… afterwards, butdon’tsweatit:justget your buying abike isthatyou’llhave itagain tosell Theobviousdrawback of vertisement sections. pers andthelocalbike press have classified ad- looking. Regionalnewspa- a goodtimetostart sible. Thebeginningof isquite winter (June) inNZisquiteting mobile ontwowheels fea- do have alittlebitof get- timeupyoursleeve, gine block)or licence-plate number. Number (VIN;foundonaplate neartheen- $25 andisdoneusingtheVehicle Identification ( includingtheAA’s offer thisservice, debtsonit).Anumberof standing companies dodgy about thecarinquestion(eganyout- ership of thevehicle, there’s incase anything % Make sure anycaryoubuyhasaWarrantof Before you buy it’s wise toconfirmtheown- youbuyit’swise Before Car inspectionsare recommendedCar highly If youdon’thave yourownmotorcyclebut 04-233 8590;www.lemoncheck.co.nz) Vehicle Inspection NewZealand Vehicle Inspection of thechange of ownership withinseven Land Transport NewZealand Land Transport . TheAAalsooffers amo- lonelyplanet.com . A search costs costs . Asearch

(VINZ; (VINZ; LemonCheck (www.ltsa

% 0800

TRANSPORT

411 Wanaka

592 Timaru

280 497 Te Anau Te

486 273 828 Queenstown

168 336 119 659 Picton

822 988 499 774 292 Oamaru 85

583 321 410 234 580 Nelson way, so slow down as give 671 114 693 588 588 230

1025 Milford Sound Milford you

524 291 122 610 394 958

1145 1121 Kaikoura

960 250 436 160 676 840 351 612 340 Invercargill

767 280 330 918 190 158 417 285 869

1018 At single-lane bridges (of which there are are there which (of At single-lane bridges Speed limits on the open road are generally generally Speed limits on the open road are Hokitika

a surprisingly large number), a smaller red a smaller red number), a surprisingly large travel of arrow pointing in your direction means that and pull a little to the side if you approach you see the other end of a car approaching the bridge. a rather strange extreme here – if you’re turn- – if you’re here extreme a rather strange is turning ing left and an oncoming vehicle to give right you have into the same street, to it. way the limit is usu- 100km/h; in built-up areas Speedally 50km/h. An ‘LSZ’ (Limited Zone) sign on the open road means that the speed from 100km/h to 50km/h in limit is reduced certain conditions – this applies when condi- due to bad weather, limited unsafe tions are visibility, pedestrians, cyclists or animals traffic,on the road, excessive lousy road or are conditions. Speed cameras and radars used extensively. Road Rules the road on the left-hand side of Kiwis drive way A ‘give right-hand drive. are and all cars to to the right’ rule applies and is interpreted 690 420 810 334 456 400 513 690 365 426 145 Hanmer Springs Hanmer

256 714 133 910 305 380 300 620 785 300 560 218 Greymouth

41

214 769 338 860 290 448 360 583 732 352 469 102 Franz Josef Glacier Josef Franz

550 678 470 506 531 404 492 280 181 395 140 575 560 285 Dunedin

562 551 495 570 217 545 410 786 114 701 280 289 200 276 695 Christchurch

360 395 258 135 260 578 187 768 418 247 336 489 650 162 424 334 Blenheim 29

794 960 470 745 266 117 556 308 674 486 333 260 370 888 132

1075 Arthur's Pass Arthur's

99

104 694 337 922 384 334 458 645 798 528 200 250 420 264 149 478 248 Aoraki/Mt Cook Aoraki/Mt 449 518 550 744 215 667 271 434 212 214 666 530 408 640 466 330 331 493 510 GETTING AROUND •• Car & Motorcycle

Wanaka Westport Picton Timaru Queenstown Te Anau Franz Josef Glacier Hanmer Springs Kaikoura Milford Sound Nelson Oamaru Blenheim Dunedin Greymouth Hokitika Invercargill Arthur's Pass Christchurch

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD DISTANCES (KM) DISTANCES ROAD ISLAND SOUTH Road Hazards sealed roads. And watch out for sheep! sealed out roads. And watch a more cautious driving approach than for cautious driving approach a more ing truck or campervan on uphill climbs – also lots of are There patience. pack plenty of require which to explore, or dirt roads gravel they can go as fast as they like, despite narrow, despite they can go as fast as they like, light,twisting roads. Traffic is usually pretty a slow-mov- stuck behind but it’s easy to get occurs on NZ roads, from the no-fuss motor- on NZ roads, from the no-fuss occurs to let you ist who doesn’t mind pulling over who believe they past to back-road tailgaters bitumen so well of know a particular stretch The full spectrum of drivers and driving habits drivers The full spectrum of time) is usually a much better idea. better time) is usually a much a strictly financial sense, hiring or buying and the yourself have (if you selling the vehicle registration. The buy-back amount varies, but The buy-back registration. may be 50% less than the purchase price – in the WoF certificate needed to transfer the the needed to transfer the WoF certificate ways of knocking down the price when you knocking down the price ways of to (even if it was agreed the vehicle return by pointing out expensive in writing), often to gain will be required that allegedly repairs motorcycle dealer. However, dealers may find However, dealers motorcycle dealer. lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT services but,withafew honourableexcep- services citieshave Larger tised. fairlyextensive bus Most of have NZ’surbanbuses priva- been Bus, Train&Tram LOCAL TRANSPORT offering a lift. an excellentresource or for people seeking dation. Thewebsite www.carshare.co.nz is notices onboardsinbackpacker accommo- car journeysaroundthecountryoften leave People lookingfortravelling companionsfor Ride-Shares adventures NZ. through p20),anentertaining accountof hitching(see Bennett’s reading Joe thumb, get anideaof thechallenges aheadby lers asit once was. hitching arideisn’tascommonamongtravel- works andcheap car-rental rates meanthat pointed finger), extensive although busnet- (signalling withathumbs-upordownward- hitchhikerssee bythesideof countryroads planning togo. it’snotunusualto Thatsaid, in pairs andletsomeoneknowwhere theyare Prospective hitchers willbesafer iftheytravel are risk. asmallbutpotentially taking serious decide tohitch shouldunderstand thatthey who hitching (especiallyforwomen).Those no longer immunefromtheperilsof solo incidents inrecent years suggest thatNZis Island of afew NZisit.’However, unsavoury world where Icanstillhitch aride,theSouth logical tothink,‘Ifthere’s anywhere inthe Until quite recently itwasquite fairand HITCHING (www.ltsa.govt.nz/roadcode) of roadrulesonthe shops, oryoucancheck theonlinerundown cycles are available andbook- atAAoffices Versions applicabletobothcars andmotor- toknowabout lifeall youneed ontheroad. New Zealand RoadCode, be belted intoanapproved safety seat. risking afineifyoudon’t.Smallchildren must front andit’sthelawtowearthem–you’re 412 Before you start limberingupyourhitching youstart Before All newcars inNZhave beltsbackand seat Drivers wanttobuyacopyof might the ETN RUD • icig AROUND••Hitching GETTING Land Transport New Zealand NewZealand Land Transport website. A Landof TwoHalves which will tell you

travel agents andvisitorinformationcentres, Scenic directly, oratmosttrainstations, both directions daily. Christchurch andGreymouth. Routes runin rattles over theSouthernAlpsbetween and Picton,the ing the visuallystunningroutes,erates includ- several ( ney, notinordertoget anywhere! In NZyoutravel onthetrainforjour- TRAIN for oneorfinda rank. taxi elsewhere youusuallyhave toeitherphone thebusyareascruise inChristchurch, but Taxissmall townsmayhave alocalservice. The maincitieshave plentyof andeven taxis Taxi nights. end-of-week ing centralentertainment districtsonboozy, roam- al) alsohave alate-night busservice The bigger cities(Christchurch, Nelsonet andthehistorictramway. Shuttle Busservice city area inChristchurch ismadeeasierbythe altogether.may cease Negotiatingtheinner- canbehardtofindor Sunday, busservices operations; onweekends, particularlyon tions, theyare mainlydaytime,weekday Interislander ferries, p407. see InterCity coaches, TranzScenictrainsand costs$359/215 week per adult/child. and Picton.Apass(withferry trip)lastinga on theInterislander ferry Wellington between withtheoptionof includingpassage services, .co.nz) value. good work, buyingatrainpassisn’tparticularly Given theSouthIsland’slimited railnet- Train Passes backpackers cards (20% off). and holders of YHA, VIPandNOMAD students(20%off), fares), (30%off), seniors tions applyforchildren (50%offstandard Asktimetables. aboutdiscountfares –reduc- where you canalsopickupbookletsdetailing % Reservations can be made through Tranz canbemadethrough Reservations For details ofFor details apasscombiningtravel on Tranz Scenic’s 0800 872467,04-4950775;www.tranzscenic.co.nz) allows unlimited travel onmostof itsrail TranzCoastal Scenic Rail Pass Scenic Rail between Christchurch between TranzAlpine, lonelyplanet.com (www.tranzscenic Tranz Scenic which op-

HEALTH 413 and other allergic rashes and other allergic cuts and abrasions reactions skin purification and bed nets clothing, tents Panadol) or aspirin Panadol) pocketknife pins, tweezers safety scissors, or cortisone for poison ivy cream steroid block sun thermometer or paper tape adhesive ointment (eg Bactroban) antibacterial for antibiotics antidiarrhoeal drugs (eg loperamide) antihistamines and allergic for hay fever drugs (eg ibuprofen) anti-inflammatory gauze, gauze rolls bandages, for the insect repellent DEET-containing for water filter iodine tablets or water salts oral rehydration permethrin-containing insect spray for acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol/ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „

NZ has no vaccination requirements for any for any requirements NZ has no vaccination Organization Health The World traveller. should be that all travellers recommends measles, tetanus, for diphtheria, covered and polio, as mumps, rubella, chickenpox their des- of well as hepatitis B, regardless is an abroad travel tination. Planning to that all routine vacci- ideal time to ensure The consequences is complete. nation cover these diseasesof and while can be severe vaccina- childhood NZ has high levels of these diseases of outbreaks tion coverage, do occur. MEDICAL CHECKLIST insurance – check out lonelyplanet.com for for out lonelyplanet.com check insurance – if Find out in advance information. more payments plan will make your insurance at a you or reimburse to providers directly health expenditures. for overseas date later expect payment (In many countries doctors in cash.) RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS

Dr David Millar

Bring medications in their original, clearly Before You Go Before 413 Insurance Recommended Vaccinations Medical Checklist Resources Internet In Transit (DVT) Thrombosis Deep Vein 413 Jet Lag & Motion Sickness In New Zealand Care & Cost of Health Availability 413 Diseases Infectious 414 Diarrhoea Traveller’s 413 Environmental Hazards 414 414 414 414 414 415 415 415

you for medical expenses incurred over- you for medical expenses incurred seas, extra you should think about getting INSURANCE INSURANCE insurance doesn’t cover health If your current documenting their medical necessity. names, is also a good idea. If carrying syringes If carrying syringes names, is also a good idea. a physician’s letter to have or needles, be sure from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic labelled containers. A signed and dated letter letter A signed and dated labelled containers. yellow fever vaccination upon entry, but it’s a vaccination yellow fever you travel. good idea to carry it wherever will list all the vaccinations you’ve received. This received. will list all the vaccinations you’ve of proof is mandatory for countries that require physician four to eight weeks before departure. departure. physician four to eight weeks before Certificate your doctor for an International Ask (or ‘the yellow booklet’), which Vaccination of Since most vaccines don’t produce immunity visit a given, they’re until at least two weeks after BEFORE YOU GO BEFORE YOU GO a very safe region to get off the beaten track the beaten off to get region safe a very and out into the beautiful countryside. even some animal diseases such as rabies have even animal diseases some as rabies have such poisonous The absence of yet to be recorded. this animals makes dangerous or other snakes eases such as malaria and typhoid are unheard and typhoid are as malaria eases such and thanks to NZ’s quarantine standards, of, New Zealand countries the healthiest is one of dis- The risk of to travel. in the world in which

CONTENTS CONTENTS Health HEALTH people. ginger, which works like acharm for some isdrowsiness. A herbalalternativeeffect is treating motionsickness.Their mainside Bonine) are usuallytheprefered choice for (Dramamine) andmeclizine(Antivert, etc)assoonpossible. sleep andreadjustlight yourschedule (formeals, your destination,get exposure tonaturalsun- meals. Uponarrivalat fluids andeatinglight of jetlag,trydrinkingplentyof nonalcoholic Toavoid and/ornausea. theeffects malaise five timezones,resulting ininsomnia,fatigue, Jet lagiscommonwhencrossingmore than MOTION SICKNESS JET LAG& tobacco. drink plentyof fluidsandavoid alcohol and cles (ieflexthelegmuscleswhilesitting), cabin, performcompressions of thelegmus- youshould walkabouton longflights, the attention immediately. medical any of symptomsshould seek these breathing.pain anddifficulty Travellers with clot travels tothelungs,itmayresult inchest not always–onjustoneside. Whenablood pain of thefoot,ankleorcalf,usually–but VeinDeep isswellingor Thrombosis(DVT) the greater therisk.Thechief symptomof period of immobility. Thelonger theflight, of chieflyplane flights, because aprolonged Blood clotsmayforminthelegsduring THROMBOSIS (DVT) DEEP VEIN IN TRANSIT country andisupdatedevery daily. complete travel healthrecommendations for Health good website of general interest is and isavailable onlineatnocost.Another Travel andHealth lishes anexcellentbookcalled World HealthOrganization (lonelyplanet.com) further informationonhealth, health adviceavailable onthe internet. For You’ll findthatthere’s awealthof travel INTERNET RESOURCES 414 Antihistamines such asdimenhydrinateAntihistamines To prevent of the development DVT IN TRANSIT •• Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) IN TRANSIT••DeepVein Thrombosis(DVT) (www.mdtravelhealth .com) is a good place to start. The isagoodplacetostart. , which annually isrevised (www.who .int/ith/)

, which provides International Lonely Planet MD Travel MD Travel pub- marine hazards. hazardssuch asheat,sunburn,coldandtal dren isrecommended toavoid environmen- exist forwomenbutgreater care forchil- major centres. Nospecifichealthconcerns facilities forwomenandchildren inthe www.acc .co.nz. www.moh.govt.nzFor more see details and NZ willonlybecovered bytravel insurance. ment of amedicalillnessthatoccurs whilein Corporation (ACC). Costsincurred bytreat- accidents) bytheAccidentCompensation motor vehicle accidents,adventure activity from accidentsthatoccurwhileinNZ(eg coveredhowever, formedicalcare resulting system of Alltravellers publichospitals. are, nothaveNZ does agovernment-funded Health CareinNewZealand See opposite forinsuranceinformation. and repatriation canbeextremely expensive. considerablecostscanbebuiltup standards, and notoverly expensive byinternational While healthcare inNZisof standard ahigh Health foralltravellers. insuranceisessential HEALTH CARE AVAILABILITY &COSTOF IN NEWZEALAND in popular trampingareas. visitor centres Department of Conservation remote areas, andcanusuallybehired from forcommunication equipment isimportant mobile-phone coverage, butadditional radio means of communication–NZhasextensive really safe, ensure thatyouhave adequate appropriate fortheactivitiesplanned.Tobe carry acomprehensive first-aid kit thatis Medicine Institute). Inaddition,youshould (suchcourse astheonefromWilderness awilderness first-aid Considertaking sential. andpreparation of ises- level self-reliance the SouthIsland.Therefore, anincreased weather andrugged terrain, particularlyon getting toyou.Thisisusuallytheresult of a significantdelayinemergency services ous accidentorillness,there maywellbe mote location where, of intheevent aseri- inare-In NZitispossibletofindyourself Self-care inNewZealand 116) NZ has excellent specialised publichealthNZ hasexcellentspecialised The 24-hour,free-call offers NZ. healthadvicethroughout Healthline lonelyplanet.com (

% 0800 611 HEALTH 415 water-proof layers, adding insulation and adding insulation and layers, water-proof to and carbohydrate) fuel (water providing tem- to build the internal allow shivering hypothermia, shivering In severe perature. actually stops; this is a medical emergency rapid evacuation in addition to the requiring measures. above ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS Hypothermia This is a significant risk, especially during in the or year-round months the winter the the North Island and all of mountains of and/or strong South Island. Mountain ranges can factor which winds produce a high chill in hypothermia, even in moderately result Early signs include the cool temperatures. as (such inability to perform fine movements and a bad case doing up buttons), shivering grumbles, the ‘umbles’ (fumbles, mumbles, of are treatment elements of stumbles). The key heat to one where the environment changing any wet out of loss is minimised, changing clothing, adding dry clothes with wind- and any unprotected sex with a new partner. sex with a new partner. any unprotected major run as part of Sexual are health clinics hospitals. TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA to drink If you develop diarrhoea, be sure an oral rehydration preferably fluids, plenty of A saltsolution containing and sugar. lots of but treatment loose stools don’t require few than four or five more if you start having startstools a day, you should taking an an- tibiotic (usually a quinolone drug) and an as loperamide). If (such antidiarrhoeal agent than 72 for more diarrhoea is bloody, persists shak- and/or is accompanied by fever, hours should abdominal pain you or severe ing chills seek medical attention. Meningococcal Disease Disease Meningococcal pro- a risk with and is worldwide This occurs A accommodation. dormitory-style longed the disease for some types of vaccine exists A, C, Y and W). (meningococcal Sexually Transmitted Diseases (STDs) (including gonorrhoea, chlamy- In NZ STDs similar to at rates dia and herpes) occur countries. The most common most Western urine and a pain on passing symptoms are without be present can Infection discharge. symptoms, so seek after medical screening IN NEW ZEALAND •• Infectious Diseases

Some medications that are available over over available that are Some medications

syringes are widely available. are syringes major media campaigns, and levels are similar media campaigns, and levels are major countries. Clean needlesto other Western and HIV HIV stabilised have after The country’s HIV rates intravenous drug users. Blood-transfusion drug users. Blood-transfusion intravenous services use. all blood before fully screen Hepatitis C Hepatitis C This disease among is a growing problem bad-smelling diarrhoea, abdominal bloating (ti- is available treatment and wind. Effective nidazole or metronidazole). iodine are effective ways of preventing the preventing ways of effective iodine are intermittent disease. Symptoms consist of streams and lakes is not recommended. Using Using is not recommended. and lakes streams with water and boiling or treating filters water The giardia parasite is widespread in the wa- is widespread The giardia parasite from water Drinking untreated NZ. of terways and for appropriate treatment. and for appropriate Giardiasis Urgent medical care is essential to differenti- medical care Urgent disease the ate meningitis from other causes of disease and vomiting. fever include headache,

There is a small risk of developing amoebic is a small risk of There bathing or swim- of meningitis as a result pools in NZ – mostly in ming in geothermal In such as Rotorua and Taupo. such regions to pre- water the head above pools, keeping up the nasal the organism of movement vent low is pretty the risk (which reduces passage to start usually start with). Symptoms three to seven swimming in a geother- days after this serious mal pool and early symptoms of INFECTIOUS DISEASES INFECTIOUS DISEASES Amoebic Meningitis as brand names differ between The countries. the medications in use outside of of majority available. are region tive pill, most medications for asthma and pill, most medications for asthma and tive on a a medication all antibiotics. If you take supply and basis, bring an adequate regular name, the generic details of you have ensure able by a prescription obtained from a general obtained general from a able by a prescription These contracep- include the oral practitioner. the counter in other countries are only avail- countries are in other the counter These antihistamines for painkillers, include products. and skin care allergies, Pharmaceutical Supplies Supplies Pharmaceutical widely are medications Over-the-counter in NZ through chemists. private available lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 10am and4pm–avoid skinexposure during sure UVexposure closely. isgreatest between in theworld,soyoushouldmonitorUVexpo- NZ hasoneof rates of thehighest skincancer Ultraviolet LightExposure andexpertise. own limitations before entering thesurfandbeaware of your Check withlocalsurflife-saving organisations atmanybeaches. the varyingslopeof theseabed The powerof thesurfcanfluctuate asaresult of on thewestern, southernandeastern coasts. NZ hasexceptionalsurfbeaches, particularly Surf Beaches&Drowning ifanulcerdevelops. medical assistance andseek heal. Cleanthewoundthoroughly ulcersknown tocause thatare to very difficult spiderbitescommon). White-tailed have been (thanks, Australia)white-tailed spider(alsoun- point of beingendangered) andtheintroduced (not very poisonousanduncommontothe NZ hastwopoisonousspiders, thenative katipo Spider Bites 416 IN NEW ZEALAND ••EnvironmentalHazards IN NEWZEALAND that toomuch iodinecanbeharmful. Follow thedirections carefully andremember Iodine ismore effective inpurifyingwater. not parasites cysts. such asgiardiaoramoebic willkillmanypathogens,Chlorine tablets but boil water itshouldbetreated chemically. all dangerous organisms, soifyoucannot Simplefiltering willnotremoveit doesn’t. actly whatitremoves fromthewater andwhat to read thespecificationssothatyouknowex- filter. It’svery whenbuyingafilter important You shouldalsoconsiderpurchasing awater of purifyingwater istoboilitthoroughly. Thesimplestway when trampingessential. makingwater purification diarrhoea, cause areever, beingcontaminated bybugsthat numbers of streams, rivers andlakes, how- Tap water isuniversally safe inNZ.Increasing Water sundamage.minimise exposure and thatyoureapply regularly to making sure youapplyit30minutes before SPF30+sunscreen, times.Alwaysuse these lonelyplanet.com 417 Language

New Zealand has two official languages: Eng- even though over 7000km separates Hono- lish and Maori. English is the language you’ll lulu and Auckland. usually hear spoken, but Maori, long on the The Maori language was never dead – it decline, is making a comeback. You can use was always used in Maori ceremonies – but English to speak to anyone in NZ – all Maori over time familiarity with it was definitely people speak English. There are some occa- on the decline. Fortunately, recent years sions, though, when knowing a little Maori is have seen a revival of interest in it, and this useful, such as when visiting a marae, where forms an integral part of the renaissance of often only Maori is spoken. Maori is also Maoritanga (Maori culture). Many Maori useful to know since many places in NZ have people who had heard the language spoken Maori names. on the marae for years but had not used it in their day-to-day lives are now studying KIWI ENGLISH it and speaking it fluently. Maori is now Like the people of other countries in the taught in schools throughout NZ, some TV world who speak English, New Zealanders programs and news reports are broadcast in have a unique way of speaking the language. it and many English place names are being The flattening (some would call it slaugh- renamed in Maori. Even government depart- tering) of vowels is the most distinctive ments have been rechristened with Maori feature of Kiwi pronunciation. The NZ names: for example the Inland Revenue De- treatment of ‘fish and chips’ – ‘fush and partment is also known as Te Tari Taake chups’ – is an endless source of delight for (the last word is actually take, which means Australians. In the North Island sentences ‘levy’, but the department has chosen to often have ‘eh!’ attached to the end. In the stress the long ‘a’ by spelling it ‘aa’). far south a rolled ‘r’ is practised widely, a In many places, Maori people have come holdover from that region’s Scottish heri- together to provide instruction in their lan- tage – it’s especially noticeable in Southland. guage and culture to young children; the See the Glossary on p420 for an explanation idea is for them to grow up speaking both of Kiwi English words and phrases. Maori and English, and to develop a famil- A Personal Kiwi-Yankee Dictionary by Louis iarity with Maori tradition. It’s a matter of

S Leland Jr is an often hilarious book of some pride to have fluency in the language. LANGUAGE translations and explains some of the quirks On some marae only Maori can be spoken, that distinguish Kiwi and American ways of which encourages everyone to speak it and speaking English. Yanks will love it. emphasises the distinct Maori character of the sacred sites. MAORI The Maori have a vividly chronicled his- Pronunciation tory, recorded in songs and chants which Maori is a fluid, poetic language and sur- dramatically recall the migration to NZ prisingly easy to pronounce once you re- from Polynesian Hawaiki and other impor- member to split each word (some can be tant events. Early missionaries were the first amazingly long) into separate syllables. to record the language in a written form, Most consonants in Maori – h, k, m, n, p, and achieved this with only 15 letters of the t and w – are pronounced much the same English alphabet. as in English. The Maori r is a flapped Maori is closely related to other Polyne- sound (not rolled) with the tongue near the sian languages (including Hawaiian, Tahi- front of the mouth. It’s closer to the English tian and Cook Islands Maori). In fact, NZ ‘l’ in pronunciation. Maori and Hawaiian have the same degree The two combinations of consonants ng of lexical similarity as Spanish and French, and wh require special attention. The ng is

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MAORI GEOGRAPHICAL TERMS The following words form part of many place names in NZ: a – of pouri – sad, dark, gloomy ana – cave puke – hill ara – way, path, road puna – spring, hole, fountain awa – river or valley rangi – sky, heavens heke – descend raro – north hiku – end, tail rei – cherished possession hine – girl, daughter roa – long ika – fish roto – lake iti – small rua – hole in the ground; two kahurangi – treasured possession; special greenstone runga – above kai – food tahuna – beach, sandbank kainga – village tane – man kaka – parrot tangata – people kare – rippling tapu – sacred, forbidden, taboo kati – shut or close tata – close to; dash against; twin islands koura – crayfish tawaha – entrance, opening makariri – cold tawahi – the other side (of a river or lake) manga – stream or tributary te – the (singular) manu – bird maunga – mountain tonga – south moana – sea or lake ure – male genitals moko – tattoo uru – west motu – island wahine – woman mutu – finished, ended, over wai – water nga – the (plural) waingaro – lost; waters that disappear in certain seasons noa – ordinary; not tapu waha – broken nui – big, great waka – canoe nuku – distance wera – burnt or warm; floating o – of, place of ... wero – challenge one – beach, sand or mud whaka... – to act as ... pa – fortified village whanau – extended family papa – flat land, broad slab whanga – harbour, bay or inlet pipi – shellfish whare – house pohatu – stone whenua – land or country poto – short whiti – east

Knowledge of just a few such words can help you make sense of many Maori place names. For example: Waikaremoana is the Sea (moana) of Rippling (kare) Waters (wai); Rotorua means the LANGUAGE Second (rua) Lake (roto); and Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipukakapikimaunga- horonukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu means... well, perhaps you should take the four-hour tour with Hikoitangi Iti (h06-858 5033; [email protected]) to find out the translation for the longest placename in the world. Some easier place names composed of words in this list:

Aramoana – Sea (moana) Path (ara) Te Puke – The (te) Hill (puke) Awaroa – Long (roa) River (awa) Urewera – Burnt (wera) Penis (ure) Kaitangata – Eat (kai) People (tangata) Waimakariri – Cold (makariri) Water (wai) Maunganui – Great (nui) Mountain (maunga) Wainui – Great (nui) Waters (wai) Opouri – Place of (o) Sadness (pouri) Whakatane – To Act (whaka) as a Man (tane) Te Araroa – The (te) Long (roa) Path (ara) Whangarei – Cherished (rei) Harbour (whanga)

(Note that the adjective comes after the noun in Maori constructions. Thus ‘cold water’ is wai makariri not makariri wai.)

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pronounced as in the English words ‘singing’ Each syllable ends in a vowel and there is or ‘running’, and can be used at the begin- never more than one vowel in a syllable. ning of words as well as at the end. To prac- There are no silent letters. tise, just say ‘ing’ over and over, isolate the There are many Maori phrasebooks, ‘ng’ part of it and then practise using it at the grammar books and Maori–English diction- beginning of a word rather than at the end. aries if you want to take a closer look at the The wh also has a unique pronunciation language. Learning a few basic greetings is in Maori – generally as a soft English ‘f’. an excellent thing to do, especially if you This pronunciation is used in many place plan to go onto a marae, where you’ll be names in NZ, such as Whakatane, Whan- greeted in Maori. garoa and Whakapapa (all pronounced as The Collins Maori Phrase Book by Patricia if they begin with a soft ‘f’). There is some Tauroa is an ideal book for starting to speak local variation, however: in the region the language, with sections on every-day around the Whanganui River, for example, conversation and using the language in a the wh is pronounced as in the English cultural context (such as on a marae). Lonely words ‘when’ and ‘why’. Planet’s South Pacific Phrasebook has a sec- When learning to speak Maori the cor- tion on the Maori language and several other rect pronunciation of the vowels is very Pacific languages (Tongan, Samoan, Cook important. The examples below are only a Island Maori) that you may hear spoken rough guideline – to really get it right you’ll around Wellington or South Auckland. have to listen carefully to someone who Other English–Maori dictionaries include knows how to pronounce the language cor- the English–Maori Maori–English Dictionary rectly. Each vowel has both a long and a by Bruce Biggs, and the Reed Dictionary of short sound with long vowels often denoted Modern Maori by PM Ryan, which is one of in text by a macron (a line over the letter) the most authoritative. or a double vowel. We have not indicated long/short vowel forms in this book. Greetings & Small Talk Maori greetings are finding increased popu- VOWELS larity; don’t be surprised if you’re greeted a as in ‘large’, with no ‘r’ sound with Kia ora. Try these: e as in ‘get’ i as in ‘marine’ Haere mai! Welcome! o as in ‘pork’ Kia ora. Hello/Good luck/ u as the ‘oo’ in ‘moon’ Good health. Tena koe. Hello. (to one person) DIPHTHONGS Tena korua. Hello. (to two people) LANGUAGE ae, ai as the ‘y’ in ‘sky’ Tena koutou. Hello. (to three or ao, au as the ‘ow’ in ‘how’ more people) ea as in ‘bear’ E noho ra. Goodbye. (to person ei as in ‘vein’ staying) eo as ‘eh-oh’ Haere ra. Goodbye. (to person eu as ‘eh-oo’ going) ia as in the name ‘Ian’ ie as the ‘ye’ in ‘yet’ Kei te pehea koe? io as the ‘ye o’ in ‘ye old’ How are you? (to one person) iu as the ‘ue’ in ‘cue’ Kei te pehea korua? oa as in ‘roar’ How are you? (to two people) oe as in ‘toe’ Kei te pehea koutou? oi as in ‘toil’ How are you? (to three or more) ou as the ‘ow’ in ‘sow’ Kei te pai. ua as the ‘ewe’ in ‘fewer’ Very well, thanks/That’s fine.

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This glossary is a list of abbreviations, ‘Kiwi cervena – farmed deer English’, Maori and slang terms and phrases chardy – Chardonnay you may come across in New Zealand. Also chillie bin – cooler; esky; large insulated box for keeping see the Maori Geographical Terms boxed food and drink cold text (p418) in the Language chapter for choice/chur – fantastic; great Maori words that pop up again and again ciggies – cigarettes in NZ place names. crib – the name for a bach in Otago and Southland cuzzie, cuz – cousin; relative or mate, most often used by AA – New Zealand’s Automobile Association, which Maori to refer to fellow Maori; see also bro provides road information and roadside assistance cuzzie bro – an emphasised version of both cuzzie and across the ditch – referring to Australia bro afghan – popular homemade chocolate biscuit (origin of recipe unknown, but unlikely to be Afghanistan) dairy – small corner store that sells milk, bread, newspa- All Blacks – NZ’s revered national rugby union team pers, ice cream and pretty much everything else (the name comes from ‘All Backs’, which is what the press daggy – uncool; from the dags that hang off sheep’s called the NZ rugby team on an early visit to England); this bottoms moniker has started a trend for many national sporting DB&B – ‘dinner, bed and breakfast’ accommodation teams to be similarly nicknamed (including the Tall Blacks DOC – Department of Conservation (or Te Papa Atawhai); for the basketball team, the Black Caps for the cricket team government department which administers national parks and, briefly before being dropped, the Black Cocks for the and thus all tracks and huts badminton team!) domain – open grassed area in a town or city, often the ANZAC – Australia and New Zealand Army Corps focus of civic amenities such as gardens, picnic areas and Aoraki – Maori name for Mt Cook, meaning ‘Cloud Piercer’ bowling clubs (and sometimes camping grounds) Aotearoa – Maori name for NZ, most often translated as dropkick – a certain method of kicking a rugby ball; a ‘Land of the Long White Cloud’ personal insult ariki – chief atua – spirits or gods eh – roughly translates as ‘don’t you agree?’ and is com- awa – river monly added to the end of many Kiwi sentences, usually followed by bro (as in ‘Choice jandals, eh bro?’) B&B – ‘bed and breakfast’ accommodation bach – holiday home, usually a wooden cottage (pro- farmstay – accommodation on a Kiwi farm where you’re nounced ‘batch’); see also crib encouraged to join in the typical day-to-day activities backpackers – independent travellers to NZ, often (but football – rugby, either union or league; occasionally soccer not always) travelling the country on a budget; the term freezing works – slaughterhouse or abattoir for sheep also refers to hostels, the accommodation catering to these and/or cattle travellers BBH – Budget Backpacker Hostels; a popular hostelry Godzone – New Zealand (from Richard Seddon who affiliation referred to NZ as ‘God’s own country’) Beehive – Parliament House in Wellington, so-called good as gold, good as – very good; no problem because of its distinctive shape Great Walks – a set of nine popular tramping tracks black-water rafting – rafting or tubing underground within NZ in a cave or tomo greenstone – jade; pounamu blo-karting – sand sailing gumboots – rubber boots or Wellingtons; originated boozer – public bar from diggers on the gum-fields bro – literally ‘brother’; usually meaning mate, as in ‘just haka – any dance, but usually refers to the traditional off to see the bros’ challenge; war dance BYO – ‘bring your own’ (usually applies to alcohol at a hakari – feast

GLOSSARY restaurant or café) handle – beer glass with a handle BYOW – ‘bring your own wine’, implying you can’t bring hangi – oven made by digging a hole and steaming food beer or any other alcoholic beverages in baskets over embers in the hole; a feast of Maori food GLOSSARY 421 hapu – subtribe or smaller tribal grouping kiwi fruit – small, succulent fruit with fuzzy brown skin and hard case – hilarious, unusual or strong-willed character juicy green flesh; a Chinese gooseberry; never called a kiwi hei tiki – carved, stylised human figure worn around the koha – donation neck representing the first human and supposed to bring kohanga reo – schools where Maori language and good luck; also called a tiki culture are at the forefront of the education process; also hikoi – march, walk, sometimes a protest march or called language nest schools pilgrimage korero – to talk hoa – friend; usually pronounced ‘e hoa’ kumara – Polynesian sweet potato, a Maori staple food hokey pokey – delicious variety of vanilla ice cream with kunekune – type of wild pig introduced by Chinese gold butterscotch chips diggers in the 19th century hoki – type of fish common in fish and chip shops Kupe – early Polynesian navigator from Hawaiki, credited homestay – accommodation in a family house where with the discovery of the islands that are now NZ you’re treated as one of the family hongi – Maori greeting; the pressing of noses and sharing L&P – Lemon & Paeroa; lemon-flavoured fizzy drink of life breath laters – ‘see you later’ hui – gathering; meeting league – rugby league football lounge bar – more upmarket bar than a public bar; Interislander – large ferries crossing Cook Strait called a ‘ladies’ bar’ in some countries between Wellington and Picton i-SITE – information centre Mainlander – self-referential term for South Islander ‘Is it what!’ – strong affirmation or agreement; ‘Yes mana – spiritual quality of a person or object; prestige; isn’t it!’ authority of a chief or priest Islander – Pacific Islander; see also ‘Nesian, PI and Poly manaia – traditional carving design; literally means iwi – large tribal grouping with common lineage back to ‘bird-headed man’ the original migration from Hawaiki; people; tribe manuhiri – visitor; guest Maori – indigenous people of NZ jandals – a contraction of Japanese sandals; flip-flops; Maoritanga – Maori culture thongs; usually rubber footwear marae – literally refers to the sacred ground in front of jersey – jumper, usually woollen; the shirt worn by rugby the Maori meeting house, more commonly used to refer to players the entire complex of buildings jiff – short measurement of time (as in ‘I’ll be back in a marakihau – sea monster jiff’); see also two ticks Maui – a figure in Maori (Polynesian) mythology judder bars – bumps in the road to make you drive maunga – mountain slowly; speed humps mauri – life force/principle mere – a patu made of greenstone ka kite (ano) – see you again; goodbye metal/metalled road – gravel (unsealed) road ka pai – good; excellent MMP – Mixed Member Proportional; the electoral system kai – food; almost any word with kai in it has a connec- used in NZ and Germany; a form of proportional voting tion with food moa – large, extinct flightless bird kainga – village; pre-European unfortified Maori village moe – sleep kapa haka – Traditional Maori group singing and dancing moko – tattoo; usually refers to facial tattoos karakia – prayer, incantation Moriori – isolated Polynesian group, inhabitants of the kaumatua – highly respected members of a tribe; the Chatham Islands people you would ask for permission to enter a marae motorway – freeway or expressway kauri – native pine marnis – something or someone shameful kina – sea urchins, a Maori delicacy Kiwi – A New Zealander; an adjective to mean anything naiad – rigid-hull inflatable boat (used for dolphin swim- relating to NZ ming, whale-watching etc) kiwi – the flightless, nocturnal brown bird with a long ‘Naki, the – Taranaki GLOSSARY beak that is the national symbol ‘Nesian – Pacific Islander; see also Islander, PI and Poly kiwiana – the collective term for anything uniquely con- nga – the (plural); see also te nected to NZ life and culture, especially from years gone ngai/ngati – literally, ‘the people of’ or ‘the descendants by, and likely to bring on waves of nostalgia in any expat of’; tribe (on the South Island it’s pronounced ‘kai’) Kiwi (examples include the Buzzy Bee, hokey pokey, jandals NZ – the universal term for New Zealand; pronounced and the pavlova) ‘enzed’ 422 GLOSSARY

OE – Overseas Experience; a working holiday abroad, Roaring Forties – the ocean between 40° and 50° traditionally to the UK (the young Kiwi’s near-mandatory south, known for very strong winds ‘tour of duty’) Rotovegas – derogatory term relating to the touristy aspects of Rotorua pa – fortified Maori village, usually on a hill top rumble – see scrap Pacific Rim – term used to describe modern NZ cuisine; cuisine with an innovative use of local produce, especially sav – sauvignon blanc seafood, with imported styles scrap – a fight Pakeha – Maori for a white or European person section – small block of land pakihi – unproductive and often swampy land on the silver fern – the symbol worn by the All Blacks and other South Island’s west coast; pronounced ‘par-kee’ national sportsfolk on their jerseys, representative of the papa – large blue-grey mudstones; the word comes from underside of a ponga leaf; the national netball team are the Maori for Earth Mother called the Silver Ferns parapenting – paragliding Steinie – affectionate term for Steinlager beer Pasifika – Pacific Island culture superette – grocery store or small supermarket patch – gang logo worn on clothing sweet, sweet as – all-purpose term like choice: patu – flat war club made of wood, bone or greenstone fantastic, great paua – abalone; tough shellfish pounded, minced, then made into patties (fritters), which are available in almost taiaha – spear every NZ fish and chip shop; the beautiful, iridescent paua tall poppy syndrome – NZ tradition of diminishing shell is often used in decoration and jewellery successful people, as in ‘tall poppies get their heads pavlova – meringue cake, usually topped with cream and chopped off’ kiwi fruit; the quintessential Kiwi dessert tane – man PI – Pacific Islander; see also Islander, Poly and ‘Nesian tangata – people pig islander – derogatory term used by a person from tangata whenua – people of the land; local people one island for someone from the other island taniwha – awe-inspiring water spirit pillocking – ‘surfing’ across mud flats on a rubbish-bin lid taonga – something of great value; a treasure pipi – common edible bivalve tapu – a strong force in Maori life, with numerous mean- piss – urine; urinate; alcohol, as in ‘get on the piss’ ings; in its simplest form it means sacred, forbidden, taboo poi – ball of woven flax tatts – tattoos, often of a gang nature; as opposed poi dance – women’s formation dance that involves sing- to moko ing and manipulating a poi tauihu – canoe prow polly – politician te – the (singular); see also nga Poly – Pacific Islander; see also Islander, PI and ‘Nesian Te Papa – literally ‘our place’, the national museum in pou – wooden post, sometimes carved Wellington ponga – the silver fern; called a bungy (pronounced Te Papa Atawhai – Maori name for DOC ‘bungee’, with a soft ‘g’, in parts of the South Island) te reo – literally ‘the language’; the Maori language pounamu – Maori name for greenstone tiki – short for hei tiki powhiri – traditional Maori welcome onto a marae tiki tour – scenic tour; roundabout way toheroa – large clam quad bikes – four-wheel farm bikes tohunga – priest; wizard; general expert Rakiura – literally ‘Land of Glowing Skies’; Maori name toi toi – tall native grass for Stewart Island, which is important in Maori mythology tomo – hole; entrance to a cave as the anchor of Maui’s canoe tramp – bush walk; trek; hike rap jump – face-down abseil tua tua – type of shellfish ‘rattle your dags’ – move quickly; from the dags which tuatara – prehistoric reptile dating back to the age of hang off sheep’s bottoms dinosaurs raupo – bulrush tui –native parson bird Remuera tractor – 4WD, after wealthy suburbanites tukutuku – Maori wall panels in marae and churches pointlessly driving them tuna – eel Rheiny – affectionate term for Rheineck beer two ticks – short measurement of time (as in ‘I’ll be rigger – a refillable half-gallon plastic bottle for holding there in two ticks’); see also jiff

GLOSSARY draught beer rip – dangerously strong current running away from the umu – earth oven shore at a beach urupa – burial site © Lonely Planet Publications GLOSSARY 423 varsity – university whakairo rakau – Maori woodcarving whakapapa – genealogy wahine – woman whanau – family wai – water whare – house waiata – song wharepuni – sleeping house Waikikamukau – mythical NZ town, far from anywhere whare runanga – meeting house (and pronounced along the lines of ‘Why-kick-a-moo-cow’) whare whakairo – carved meeting house wairua – spirit whenua – land Waitangi – short way of referring to the Treaty of Waitangi whitebait – tiny translucent fish that is scooped up in waka – canoe nets and eaten whole (head, eyes and all!) or made into Warriors – NZ’s popular rugby league club, affiliated with patties Australia’s NRL wopwops – remote; ‘out in the wopwops’ is out in the Watties – the NZ food and canning giant; NZ’s answer to middle of nowhere Heinz (until Heinz took over the company) Wellywood – Wellington, because of its thriving film zorbing – rolling down a hill inside an inflatable plastic industry ball GLOSSARY © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’