Customs and traditions

MAŁOPOLSKA  14 UNESCO World Heritage List sites  255 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route  Wadowice – town of birth of Pope John Paul II  Salt mines in Wieliczka and  9 spa resorts  6 national parks  6 geothermal pools  Rafting down the gorge  2600 km of bicycle trails  3360 km of mountain trails  65 ski stations

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The project has been funded by Małopolska Region Rejkiawik IS MAŁOPOLSKA Capital of the region: Kraków Major cities: Tarnów, Nowy Sącz, Oświęcim Surface area: 15,190 km2 (about 5% of the surface area of ) MAŁOPOLSKA Population: 3.4 mil. (about 8% of the population of Poland) Customs and traditions Landscape: FIN Helsinki  the tallest peak – Rysy: 2499 m asl N Oslo S  mountains – Tatras, , Pieniny, Gorce Sztokholm Tallin EST RUS isiting Małopolska is a unique opportuni-  foothills – Carpathian Foothills Ryga ty to see real highlanders wearing their folk  uplands – Kraków-Częstochowa Upland LV Dublin DK costumes: woollen trousers with the embroi-  lowlands – valley IRL Kopenhaga LT Wilno dered parzenice, a hat with a feather, and the main rivers – Vistula, Dunajec, Poprad, Raba, Skawa, Biała GB RUS  Mińsk NL Vcharacteristic shoes called kierpce. One can also ad-  water reservoirs – Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Czchowski, Dobczycki, Londyn BY Amsterdam Klimkówka Berlin mire the rakish Kraków folk costumes with an exquisite Bruksela Warszawa D PL peacock feather attached to a red, four-cornered cap,  the highest located, cleanest lakes – Morskie Oko, Czarny Staw, the lakes B Kijów L Praga KRAKÓW of the Valley of Five Polish Lakes Paryż Luksemburg UA as well as the glistening bodices and flowery skirts. But  the largest and deepest cave – Wielka Śnieżna Cave: over 22 km CZ there is much more to the traditional culture of the re- SK Bratysława of corridors, 824 m deep F FL Wiedeń Berno MD gion than just folk costumes. There are a number of Vaduz Budapeszt CH A H Kiszyniów original religious rituals and customs, which are still Lublana SLO www.visitmalopolska.pl www.muzea.malopolska.pl RO Zagrzeb cultivated by the locals during important festivals. The San Bukareszt Marino HR AND Monako BIH Belgrad legends and tales about the olden days, as well as the P E MC RSM Andora Sarajewo SRB Lizbona I Madryt MNE Sofia mysteries and ghosts, are part of the rich cultural her- Priština BG Rzym Podgorica RKS Skopje itage of Małopolska. Other important components of Publisher V Tirana MK Department of Tourism, Sport and Promotion AL this heritage are local products and original local dish- at The Office of the Marshal of the Małopolska Province GR TR es created with their use. Regional Tourism Information System Team ul. Basztowa 22, 31-156 Kraków Ateny The still existing folk culture is the strongest expression [email protected], www.visitmalopolska.pl of the variety of Małopolska, whose every region has M its own particular costumes, customs, traditions, dish- New release: 2017 es and delicates. Małopolska Organizacja Turystyczna Rynek Kleparski 4/13, 31-150 Kraków [email protected], www.mot.krakow.pl Project coordinator: Agnieszka Bratek

Text Krzysztof Bzowski

Publishing Amistad Sp. z o.o. – Program ul. Stolarska 13/7, 31-043 Kraków tel./faks: + 48 12 4229922 [email protected], www.polskaturystyczna.pl fot. D. Zaród Production management: Agnieszka Błaszczak, Małgorzata Czopik Project coordination: Katarzyna Thor Publishing concept: Anna Niedźwieńska Editor: Aurelia Hołubowska Proofreading: Agnieszka Szmuc Cover design, graphic design: PART SA Maps: Wydawnictwo Kartograficzne Daunpol sp. z o.o. Typesetting, preparation for print: Michał Tincel Translation and proofreading: EuroInterpret Dominik Moser

Third edition: K. Syga, Virtual 3D

Kraków 2017, ISBN 978-83-65249-91-3 The authors and publishers have made every effort to ensure the text is accurate, however, they cannot be responsible for any changes that took place after the materials have been prepared for publishing. Materials prepared as of: 28 February 2017. FOLK Folk costumes Everyone must have seen at one point the famous costume of a Cracovian, with a peacock feather proudly attached to a four-cornered cap, or a highlander’s hat rimmed with shells and adorned with a feather. Richly sequined bodices, thick strings of beads, vividly coloured skirts, meticulously embroi- COSTUMES dered parzenice on the highlander’s trousers… The folk costumes of Małopolska sparkle with boldest colours and amaze with their variety of design and ornamentation. The most famous folk costumes are worn by the Cracovians and the highlanders from . Very different traditions were cultivat- ed by the and the from Beskid Sądecki and the . Still different costumes were worn by the highlanders of Spisz, Orawa and Lachów, near Nowy Sącz.

The Cracovians are famous for their costumes. The traditional man’s costume consisted of a white linen shirt and red-striped trousers tucked into high boots. The top was a black or dark navy blue tunic, adorned with red weeds and metal circles, girded with a belt and covered with a long, white, woollen russet coat with a red-weed pattern. The costume was complete with a celender hat, a woollen ma- gierka cap or the characteristic red-cornered cap with a peacock feather and colourful ribbons. Wom- en, in turn, used to wear a white embroidered blouse and a black or navy blue bodice, which was the most ornamental element of the costume – adorned with wide, colourful ribbons, buttons and fan- cywork. They would put on a flowery skirt and a white embroidered tulle apron on a white petticoat, and high boots on their feet. The costume of a married woman was complete with shawls, whereas maidens appeared with their hair uncovered and arranged in a long plait.

The Lendians inhabit a major part of the Beskids and the area around Nowy Sącz in particular. Their costume is very original, although not very well known – it combines elements of the Kraków and the highlander costumes. It is characterised by its ornamental richness. Men used to wear navy blue trou- sers and embroidered tunics with numerous brass bosses and coloured woollen weeds. Underneath, they wore a white shirt girded with a wide highlander-style leather belt, or sometimes with a high- lander’s stud. Women wore velvet bodices and skirts, usually of navy blue colour.

The Lemkos from the Low Beskids and the Nowy Sącz area created a completely different costume. Men wore the so called czucha – a long, brown linen overcoat with a characteristic fringed back collar. Underneath, they used to put on a short navy blue waistcoat, a white shirt and white trousers. Women, in turn, would wear thin white shirts with colourful embroideries around the collar and the cuffs, navy blue or black bodices with embroidered flower-patterns. The percale skirts were dark and decorated with vertically arranged colourful ribbons. The last component of their costume were kierpce shoes.

Cracow Regions inhabitants, photo by K. Bańkowski Lach folk costume element, photo by K. Bańkowski Highland girls on horseback, photo by K. Bańkowski

2 3 FOLK COSTUMES

The highlanders from Podhale, who live at the foot of the Tatra Mountains, are very proud of their beautiful traditional costume. That is why Podhale is the place where folk costumes are so com- monly seen. And a marvellous sight it is, too! Women wear meticulously crafted flat leather shoes (known as kierpce), colourful skirts with a linen apron and a petticoat underneath. A linen shirt with white embroidery is covered with a red or black velvet bodice, often adorned with coloured embroi- dery presenting a carline or a Turk’s cap lily. Finally, there are the obligatory thick strings of beads and a sheepskin coat for when it gets cold. Men put on a white shirt with an ornamental metal collar stud and a waistcoat called gunia or a loose woollen jacket known as cucha – both ornamentally embroi- dered. A wide leather belt, which used to serve as a pocket for pistols, holds up the white cloth trou- sers with a black stripe and the decorative embroideries called parzenice. The costume is complete with the leather kierpce, a cane called ciupaga and a black felt hat adorned with shells and a feather.

The highlanders from Pieniny wear a white shirt, a glaring-blue, richly embroidered waistcoat and the traditional white trousers with parzenice. The last necessary element of the costume is a black hat with a little strap imitating a string of shells. In the past, highlanders also used to put on a white or brown embroidered cucha as an overgarment. The traditional woman’s costume was similar to those worn in other regions. Its characteristic elements included a white shirt with a large embroidered col- lar, a black or red bodice, a flowery skirt, embroidered aprons and the kierpce shoes.

Babiogórcy, the highlanders from the area around Zawoja, used to wear white trousers with much more modest parzenice and brown, knee-long gunie, worn as an overgarment. Women wore navy blue skirts with a little white pattern and the so-called jadwiśka – a close-fitting jacket. On the other side of the Babia Góra mountain, in Orawy, women used to wear elbow-sleeved blouses with a wide lace frill around the cuff and neckline. They also gladly put on bodices and skirts made of the same flow- er-patterned material. Here men also wore white trousers with parzenice, as well as a black waistcoat with white buttons and a brown gunia.

The highlanders from Spisz, also known as Spiszacy, live east of Podhale. Their costumes vary Highland music, photo by K. Bańkowski a lot, even from village to village. However, they used to wear white trousers with parzenice, a waist- Highland belt, photo by K. Bańkowski coat and a russet coat here as well. Women and girls wore white tops (whose sleeves were often em- Highland woolen trousers, photo by K. Bańkowski broidered) and the characteristic bodices with U-shaped necklines. High-top boots were generally Family of Pieniny Highlanders, photo by K. Bańkowski preferred to kierpce.

4 5 REGIONAL TRADITIONS

Regional traditions

Lajkonik – the famous Kraków hero on a hobby horse – is one of the most recognisable symbols of Małopolska. Its popularity is partly due to the annual march from the district of to the Market Square, which takes place eight days after Corpus Christi. A red-legged bearded man holding a mace rides a colourful horse down the main streets of the city. Everyone who gives him money re- ceives a pat on the head, which is believed to bring luck for the whole year. Even though nowadays Lajkonik is seen as a funny character in disguise, the origins of the tradition date back to the Tatar in- vasions, which in the 13th century reached as far as Kraków.

Hejnał mariacki (also known as the Heynal) is another beautiful and still cultivated tradition, which has its origins in the Tatar invasions. Every hour in the highest tower of St. Mary’s Church (kościół Mariacki) in Kraków, a fireman plays on a trumpet the characteristic melody in all four directions, with the last tune in- variably interrupted. Legend has it that when the Tatar warriors were approaching the city, they were only spotted by one bugler-fireman. He blew his trumpet, but he never managed to finish the melody, as he died pierced with a Tatar arrow…

Koronka z Bobowej (Lace from ) – Lace-making is one of the most beautiful handicraft tradi- tions of Małopolska. For some years now, Bobowa has specialised in the difficult process of the produc- tion of bobbin lace, which is more subtle and prettier than the more commonly manufactured crochet lace. The artistry and ingenuity of the local lacemakers is so impressive that people come to Bobowa to take part in lace-making workshops. The town also organises the annual Lace Festival in Bobowa.

Szopka Krakowska (Kraków nativity cribs) – Kraków is famous for its extraordinary tradition of building nativity cribs (the so called szopki krakowskie). The tradition dates back to the late 19th centu- ry and was started by the brick-layers from the suburbs of Kraków, who in the wintertime had to look for alternative jobs. Since the 1930s, the city has organised an annual competition of nativity cribs on Lajkonik, photo by R. Korzeniowski the first Thursday of December. The event is held under the patronage of the Historical Museum of Kraków nativity cribs, photo by D. Zaród Kraków. On a foggy morning, the participants bring their works to the monument of Adam Mickie- Lace from Bobowa, UMWM photo archive wicz in the Main Square. All cribs need to contain elements of Kraków’s historic architecture. They are A Kraków nativity crib, photo by M. Zaręba later on exhibition at the Historical Museum.

6 7 REGIONAL TRADITIONS

The contest for the most beautifully painted cottage is organised each year in Zalipie on the first Sunday after Corpus Christi. It is therefore worth visiting this little village near Dąbrowa Tar- nowska on that particular day. Zalipie is known for its over one-hundred-year-old tradition of deco- rating houses with colourful flower patterns. The murals cover the walls of houses, outbuildings (even wells and kennels!), as well as the interiors of rooms, domestic appliances and furniture. The wom- en of Zalipie also craft embroidered costumes, bedcovers, tablecloths and many other decorations. Thanks to the above-mentioned contest, it is possible to keep up the old tradition not only in Zalipie, but also in the neighbouring villages.

Redyk – a festive march of shepherds and their flocks – sets out in the spring from the villages of Podhale. As winter was coming to an end and the grazing lands were turning green, senior shepherds (known as ba- cowie) together with their helpers (called juhasi) gathered all the sheep and set off towards mountain pas- tures. The grazing period began on 23 April and continued until 29 June. The most important march had its beginning in the sanctuary of Gaździna Podhala in Ludźmierz. Nowadays, every year on 23 April the sanc- tuary organises the Feast of the Senior Shepherds (Święto Bacowskie). Another famous redyk takes place in Jaworki. The march is organised in July and is accompanied by a number of events, competitions and food tastings. Another interesting reference to the sheep-grazing tradition is the Oscypek Cheese Trail. It con- nects 31 shepherd’s huts, where the oscypek (sheep’s cheese), as well as other delicacies – such as bryndza, bundz, the żentyca whey and redykołki cheeses – are regularly manufactured. Food products made from ewe’s milk can be bought directly from the baca in various shelters along the Trail.

The trail leads through a number of shepherd’s huts in the Tatras, including those in Kuźnice, Kalatówki, Droga pod Reglami in , in the Chochołowska and Kościeliska valleys, as well as on the Rusinowa Glade. More of them can be found in Podhale: Bustryk, Baligówka, Leśnica, Gliczarów Górny, Biały Dunajec, (near the airport), Ratułów, , Brzegi and Białka Tatrzańska near Kotelnica; in Gorce: on the Hala Długa by Turbacz, in Zorymbek Wyżny, Kowaniec, as well as in Konin (north of Gorce); in Pieniny: Czorsztyn and Jaworki; in Spisz: Dursztyn, Łapsze Wyżne and Niżne; in Orawa: Zubrzyca Górna by Babia Góra; and in Beskid Sądecki (Wierchomla). Painted flowers – Zalipie, photo by D. Zaród Sheep going to the meadows, photo by K. Bańkowski More information about the trail can be found on: /www.tatry.pl. For some amusing trivia Harvest, photo by K. Bańkowski about the production of the oscypek, go to: /www.oscypek.wrotamalopolski.pl.

8 9 REGIONAL Calendar of selected local events Event Location Date Website Description

Bukowina attractions include: carol-singing competition, dancing Highlander’s Carnival February www.domludowy.pl shows, traditional highland dance competition, sleigh TRADITIONS Tatrzańska races (kumoterki) In stalls around the castle, artisans show the techniques of medieval manufacturing. Visitors can view and pur- Kasztelański Fair the first weekend www.muzeum-za- chase various goods, which are faithful replicas of old Oświęcim in Oświęcim in May mek.pl tools and furnishings. The event is usually held together with the opening of a temporary exhibition, a concert or conference, all thematically related to the Fair

Blossoming Apple Tree www.swieto.lacko. a traditional event in Łącko (centre of the great orchard Łącko first half of May Festival org.pl region), presentation of the local folklore and customs event organised by the Kraków Museum of Archaeolo- Kraków Archaeology gy: history-themed meetings, presentations of scenes Kraków-Branice end of May www.ma.krakow.pl Picnic from the olden days, fight performances, archaeolo- gy workshops

the first weekend festival celebrating the local tradition of folk toys; best Folk Toys Festival Stryszawa www.stryszawa.pl of June folk toy competition, folk band performances picnic organised by the Kraków Saltworks Museum, www.muzeum.wie- outdoor salt-mining presentations, craftsmen’s Salt Festival Wieliczka beginning of June liczka.pl workshops, sale of salt-made souvenirs in jatka sol- na, etc.

www.wianki.kra- a great outdoor event referring to the tradition of the Wreaths Kraków end of June feast of St. John the Baptist: St. John’s fair, outdoor con- kow.pl certs, wreath competition a series of outdoor folklore events, including: a march Tatra Summons July – beginning of of the highland robbers (Harnasiowy Korowód), a stag- the Tatra District www.tatry.pl (Tatrzańskie Wici) September ing of a traditional highlander wedding, competitions for shepherds, Miss Highlander contest, etc. International Children’s Regional Bands Festival a week-long review of bands from all over the world Nowy Sącz end of July www.mcksokol.pl (Highlander Children’s with an inaugural march of all participants Feast)

Lemko Watch Fire third or fourth week an event that attracts the Lemkos from around the www.watrazdynia.pl world: concerts, workshops, exhibitions and meetings (Łemkowska Watra) of July celebrating the Lemko culture and tradition

Story-Telling Festival Bukowina competitions in story-telling, contests for instrumen- mid-August www.domludowy.pl (Sabałowe Bajania) Tatrzańska talists, singers, groomsmen and masters of ceremonies International Festival Zakopane last week of August www.mffzg.pl a great competition for international folklore groups of Highland Folklore Babia Góra attractions include: performances by local bands, wel- Autumn Festival Zawoja end of September www.zawoja.pl coming the redyk on its way back from mountain pas- (Jesień Babiogórska) tures, handicraft and folk art market Folk art, photo by K. Bańkowski

10 11 Legends LEGENDS The long and vivid history of Małopolska found its expression in dozens of interesting legends. Some are based on authentic events from the region’s dim and distant past, and some on totally invented stories, whose origins date back to folk beliefs and even primeval pagan traditions. Legends and folk tales account for the meanings of the names of local places, as they talk about distant times when villages and towns were only beginning to emerge. A number of legends explain the origins of bizarre monadnocks, which are a common sight in Małopolska. There are also folk tales devoted to the lives of the local saints and blesseds.

Of prince and the terrible . The most famous local legend tells the story of prince Krakus, the legendary founder of the city, and the terrible dragon that lived in a cave in the Wawel hill. The beast used to devour cattle and whenever his portion was refused, it would hunt for people instead. Nobody was able to face it, not even the brave sons of Krakus. One day, a shrewd shoemaker named Skuba stuffed ram’s fur with sulphur and put it outside the dragon’s cave. When the beast de- voured the “ram”, a fire immediately started in his viscera. The dragon wanted to put it out with the water from Vistula, but having drunk too much of it, he soon burst into little pieces. (A different ver- sion of the legend presents prince Krakus himself as the conqueror of the dragon.)

How Błędowska Desert was created. In the thirteenth century, when silver and lead mines were built in the Olkusz, more and more wells were drilled deep into the earth. The situation greatly disturbed the devils living below the mines. To prevent people from entering their dwellings and punish them for insolence, the devils decided to stop their mining of valuable mineral deposits. The devils discussed the situation for many days and nights. Finally, one of them came up with a truly devilish plan. He decided that the mines should be filled with sand from the Baltic Sea. So he took a huge sack and went to the other end of the country. The sand-filled sack was very heavy, so the devil was completely exhausted on the way back. Because he was so tired, he did not pay attention and the sack was caught on the church tower in Olkusz. The sand spilled all over the neighbouring fields. And that’s how Błędowska Desert was created.

Of Kinga’s ring. For hundreds of years salt has been extracted from beneath the ground in the Kraków area, i.e. in Wieliczka and Bochnia. Where do these deposits of salt come from? The answer to this ques- tion is contained in a beautiful local legend. When the Hungarian queen Kinga (also known as Cunegun- da) was to come to Kraków in order to marry prince Bolesław V the Chaste, she decided to offer her new homeland a precious gift. She dropped her engagement ring into a Hungarian salt mine. When she arrived in Małopolska, she ordered the workers to dig in the place of the future (or the one in Bochnia, as another version of the legend has it). Much to the surprise of all the people present, a block of salt with Kinga’s ring inside it was extracted from the ground. This is how the queen offered her new subjects an abundance of salt.

The legend of Kaśka the witch. Once upon a time, there was a woman who lived in a hut outside Młoszowa village near Trzebinia. People gave the house a wide berth and looked at it from afar with super- stitious fear. The woman was commonly held to be a witch who harassed the population with her magic. On same days, the house was surrounded by fog so dense that the human eye could not penetrate it. People who lived nearby could hear howling, whistling and hooting. Daredevils who tried to spy on the witch and see who her guests were, were thrown by an unearthly force away from the fence. When they woke up, they found themselves from their homes and speechless. Finally, people decided that after the morning Mass, residents deal with the witch once and for all. With God’s help, they managed to capture a woman. To com- memorate the event, the mountain where the witch was routed was called the Witch Mountain (Łysa Góra). , drawing by R. Kularska-Król St. Kinga, salt sculpture, photo by K. Bańkowski

12 13 Of the sleeping Tatra knights. When one looks at Tatra Mountains from Zakopane, one of the most THE FESTIVE recognisable shapes is the majestic figure of the Giewont mountain. It looks very much like a silhouette of a sleeping man. According to the legend, this person is a sleeping knight or a king, whose squad lies under a spell somewhere in the secret caves underneath the mountain. When evil prevails in the world (or MAŁOPOLSKA when Poland finds itself in serious danger), Giewont will awake together with his squad and start fighting.

Easter Easter, the celebration of the resurrection of Jesus Christ, is the oldest and most important Christian festival. The way people celebrate Easter today owes a lot to the dozens of customs, traditions and rituals, some of which have their origins in pre-Christian beliefs. As Easter always falls on the first Sun- day after the first spring full moon, many of its customs and rituals are connected with the passage from winter to spring.

Palm Sunday falls on the week preceding Easter and commemorates Christ’s triumphant entry into Jerusalem. On that day, believers go to church carrying palms and bouquets of catkins, which are not only a reminder of the events described in the Gospel, but also an expression of the old folk- tales about the spring rebirth and renewal. For that reason, Palm Sunday also used to be referred to as Flower Sunday or Willow Sunday. On that day, boys with their faces blackened with soot (called Pucheroki) wearing their sheepskin coat inside out and conical hats decorated with colourful tissue, walk around in the morning down the streets of certain villages near Kraków (such as Zielonki, Bibi- ce and Tomaszowice). The boys sing songs, wish others a happy Easter and are given pocket money or Easter delicacies in return. This custom dates back to the old tradition of Cracovian students who used to go around the townsmen’s flats. Lipnica Murowana is the site of a spectacular contest for the tallest Easter palm, where record holders reach a height of more than 30 m.

The Holy Week begins after Palm Sunday and represents the time of awaiting Easter. Each day has its own particular religious significance and symbolism, which is why a lot of believers visit the church on each of those days. The Sanctuary of the Tomb of Jesus in Miechów is famous for its exceptionally ceremonious celebration of the Holy Week. On Palm Sunday, a procession with Christ riding a donkey is performed; on Tuesday there is a special procession of the Stations of the Cross around the town cen- tre; the Good Friday procession marches along the cloisters of the monastery of the order of the Holy Sepulchre. The staging of Palm Sunday also takes place in the Norbertine monastery in Imbramowice.

The Passion plays in the sanctuary in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska attract great numbers of pilgrims and tourists. The celebration begins with a staging of Christ’s triumphant entry into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. On Holy Wednesday in the evening, scenes from the Holy Week are played out: the feast at Si- mon’s house, the meeting of the Sanhedrin and the betrayal of Judas. On Holy Thursday, the ceremony of washing the Apostles’ feet is played, followed by a procession to Gethsemane, the capture of Christ by the guards and escape of the Apostles. The denial of St. Peter in Caiaphas’s palace is acted out. The Biblical story continues on Good Friday, when the ongoing performance comes to an end with Christ being sentenced to crucifixion. What follows are the traditional Stations of the Cross. Less spectacu- Passion play in Kalwaria, photo by J. Gawron lar, but also worth mentioning, are the Passion plays staged in the Bernardine monastery in Alwernia. Easter basket, photo by K. Syga Easter palms in Lipnica Murowana, photo by P. Droździk

14 15 THE FESTIVE MAŁOPOLSKA

Easter eggs are traditionally prepared before Easter. The egg shells are first dyed using natural meth- ods and then decorated in a variety of designs. There are workshops organised for those who wish to learn about some of the traditional techniques of decorating. Such classes can be attended, among other places, in Stryszawa (www.stryszawa.pl).

Holy Saturday, the last day of the Lent and the eve of Easter Sunday, is the time of joyful anticipa- tion, when believers go to church to attend the ritual of the blessing of the foods (called święconka) prepared for the festive Easter meal, which they carry in special little wicker baskets. Among the nec- essary components of every Easter basket are Easter eggs (a symbol of new life) and a lamb made of sugar or dough, which symbolises the martyred Christ. Most people also add a slice of all kinds of spe- cially prepared ham, a pinch of salt and a slice of bread. The special atmosphere is the blessing of food in the underground chapel of St. Kinga’s Salt Mine in Bochnia.

Easter Sunday begins with a festive breakfast, during which all the delicacies from the blessed basket are served. Consuming the blessed foods is a reference to the new life granted by the resur- rected Christ. Among the traditional specialties served during dinner are the whey-based rye soup (żurek), horseradish soup and cream-stained beetroot soup based on smoked bacon stock and served with white sausage.

Wet Monday (also known as Śmigus-Dyngus) is celebrated on the day following Easter Sunday, when girls were traditionally in danger of being sprinkled with water by the lurking boys. This tradi- tion dates back to the pagan rituals connected with the symbolic spring act of cleansing of dirt and disease. Another Easter Monday tradition is Siuda Baba, a man dressed as a woman – with a pota- to-rosary in his hands and his face blackened with soot – who roams the environs of Wieliczka. He walks around churches accompanied by a soot-black gypsy with a whip. This tradition has its roots in the legend about the pagan temple of the goddess Leda in Lednica Górna near Wieliczka. The holy fire burning in the temple was sustained by a priestess performing her duties for the whole year. Af- ter one year elapsed, she went from house to house, her face black with soot, looking for a virgin who Easter eggs, photo by K. Syga could replace her. Nowadays, Siuda Baba also looks for girls, who then have to buy themselves out Colouring Easter eggs, photo by K. Bańkowski with a coin and a kiss, which involves being smeared with soot… Easter egg, photo T. Pacanowski

16 17 THE FESTIVE MAŁOPOLSKA

Christmas One of Christianity’s most important festivals, Christmas is celebrated on 25 and 26 December in com- memoration of the birth (or incarnation) of Jesus Christ. In the Polish tradition, it is probably the most beautiful festival with the most special family atmosphere. There are a number of irreplaceable cus- toms and traditions, such as putting up an elaborately decorated Christmas tree, sharing the wafer, exchanging wishes, carol-singing and presenting one another with gifts.

Christmas tree is the most important decoration of the Christmas period. It is usually adorned with colourful glass balls and paper chains. Before the sun sets on Christmas Eve, people put out gifts for the family, which, according to the local tradition, are brought by an Angel rather than the Santa Claus, like in the rest of the country.

The Christmas Eve supper is a special meal, during which one can eat certain rare vegetarian dish- es served only on that day of the year. Traditionally, there should be no less than twelve dishes. Among the most commonly served dishes are: Ukrainian-style beetroot soup with mushroom-stuffed ravioli, dried mushroom soup, fried carp (preferably the so-called karp zatorski), sauerkraut with chickpeas and mushroom. The most traditional desserts are poppy seed with mixed dried fruit and nuts, dump- lings with poppy seed, stewed dried fruit and different cakes.

Carol-singing is another tradition closely connected with Christmas. Carols are sung at home and in church. One can also listen to performances of dressed-up carollers who go from house to house. Among the masquaraders are usually carollers disguised as a turoń (a strange character with the head of a ram or a goat), Father Christmas (walking at the front with a big star cut out from paper), the Magi, a Jew, a Gypsy woman and musicians… Their singing is rewarded by small sums of money. If they do not get any, they often misbehave!

Pasterka is a festive mass celebrated on the midnight between 24th and 25th December. It is one of Kraków’s Main Square – A Christmas fair, the crucial moments of Christmas celebrations. The residents of Kraków traditionally went to the city’s photo by M. Zaręba most important church – St. Mary’s Basilica in the Market Square. Nowadays a special attraction is the Christmas decorations, photo by M. Zaręba trip to Midnight Mass in underground chapels in the Salt Mine in Bochnia and Wieliczka. Christmas Eve dinner table, photo by M. Flis

18 19 THE FESTIVE Events and festive traditions Festival Event Description Place Date Concerts of old music but also contemporary composers – all inspi- Passover Festival Easter red by the Biblical theme of the Passion and Resurrection of Christ, Tarnów March Musica Poetica MAŁOPOLSKA played on old instruments, in historic churches in Tarnów March/April It is a good opportunity to buy some Easter delicacies, such as spon- Kraków (Market Easter Easter Market (a week before ge cakes and different flavour mazurek cakes Square) Easter) The event is organised as part of the Małopolska Festival of Taste. The March/April Easter Trail many culinary attractions include: trying the Easter whey-based rye Easter Kraków (a week before of Małopolska soup (żurek), horseradish soup, different-style Easter eggs, sausages Easter) (wiejska, krakowska, myśliwska), honey and liqueurs The competition attracts crowds, while the record-breaking palms, Tallest palm March/April Easter decorated with colourful ribbons, green flowers and twigs, someti- Lipnica Murowana competition (Palm Sunday) mes reach the height of 30 metres One can see a figure of donkey-riding Christ on a wooden pram du- March/April Easter Palm Baby Jesus Tokarnia ring a procession which marches across the village of Tokarnia (Palm Sunday) A festival of classical music, devoted to famous baroque composers March/April Easter “Misteria Paschalia” Kraków and strictly connected with the Holy Week and Easter celebrations (Holy Week)

A traditional church fair in remembrance of Christ’s journey to the town Kraków of Emmaus after his resurrection. The stalls outside the Norbertine mo- March/April Easter Emmaus (the district nastery or the Church of the Holy Saviour in Zwierzyniec offer, among (Wet Monday) of Salwator) other things, the characteristic wooden figurines of the swinging Jews

A church fair organised in Kraków near the church of St. Benedict and Kraków March/April Easter Rękawka at the foot of the Krakus Mound. This primeval tradition has pagan (the district (the first Tuesday origins and was connected with a cult of the dead of Podgórze) after Easter) Authors stand next to their works (cribs referring to Kraków’s most re- cognisable monuments, made of paper, cardboard and wood) on the Kraków’s most steps of the statue of in the Market Square. They Kraków (Market The first Thursday Christmas beautiful crib then march down to the Krzysztofory Palace, where the jury crowns Square) of December competition the three-day event with announcing the winners of the competition. All the cribs remain on display until the end of January A fair during which you can buy various Christmas decorations, gifts Kraków (Market Christmas Christmas Fair December and Christmas Eve delicacies Square) Małopolska’s This festival of Christmas dishes and delicacies is a great opportunity Kraków (market Christmas December Christmas Eve Trial to taste all the traditional culinary specialities of the region square) Podhale Carol The competition cultivates the tradition of the wandering carol-sing- Christmas and Winter Song Nowy Targ mid-December ers and is a great occasion to listen to beautiful Christmas songs Competition

Lanckorona, photo by A. Otrębski

20 21 The best way to start exploring the taste of Małopolska is by trying its internationally famous smoked LOCAL cheese called oscypek. Crisp and subtle, redolent of specially selected wood and mountain meadows, oscypek is made from ewe’s milk and is only manufactured in the Polish mountains. You also cannot miss bryndza podhalańska, a fresh soft cheese with a characteristically pungent flavour.

DELICACIES A lot of original dishes and foodstuffs traditionally come from Kraków itself. During a visit to the capi- tal of Małopolska, one has to taste the Kraków-style żurek and beetroot soup. Local bakers special- ise in making ring-shaped, poppy-seed and salt covered obwarzanki and little golden crispy pretzels. The former are seen by many as one of the symbols of Kraków. Chleb prądnicki (“prądnicki” bread) is less known, although it has been baked since the 15th century, and a genuine loaf of such bread is one metre long and weights in excess of 10 kg! Other specialities of Kraków include delicious cakes and bagels from – rolls with a distinct hole in the middle, sprinkled with nigella, caraway, poppy seed and salt.

Original bakery goods are not only Kraków’s speciality. Every gourmet will also appreciate jodłownicki kołacz z serem (ring-shaped cake with cheese), the crumble-topped Jurassic kołacz or the oblong wheat bun called kukiełka lisiecka. A good way to satisfy your hunger is to try the quern bread from Łomna or Jurassic bread, which remains fresh for a long time thanks to one of its ingredients – potato flakes.

It is widely known that fresh bread tastes best with honey, when the crust and the soft inside of the bread become soaked with sweetness originating from mountain apiaries. This is where the best ­honeydew honey is produced (the regions of Małopolska and Sądecczyzna).

Traditional local products also include salt from Wieliczka, ice-cream from Nowy Targ or the fa- mous and healthy balsam kapucyński (Capuchin balm). As regards cheese and dairy products, one should mention (alongside oscypek and bryndza) such delicacies as: redykołek (smoked cheese in the shape of animals, a heart or a spindle), żentyca (whey made of ewe’s milk), ser gazdowski (the so called gołka, pucok or kara; cheese made exclusively of cow’s milk) and bundz (mild, nutty and slight- ly sour loaf-shaped cheese).

As far as drinks are concerned, worth mentioning are the local alcoholic beverages, which include plum vodkas called śliwowica łącka and śliwowica wyborna, as well as the mountain ash based jarzębiak izdebnicki and the sweet jarzębinka.

Among the most interesting varieties of cured meat is kiełbasa lisiecka (“lisiecka” sausage), produced in Liszki and Czernichów near Kraków. It is made of top-quality pork and smoked over aromatic smoke from specially selected fruit tree wood. Other regional delicacies include Zator goose carcasses and lamb meat from the Podhale.

You should also try fruit and vegetables, such as: “charsznicka“ sour cabbage, “Piękny Jaś“ butter bean from the Dunajec valley, “łukowicka“ and “suska sechlońska“ prunes and the traditional vari- eties of apples from Raciechowice and Łącko.

Finally, a very special delicacy: the “zatorski carp“ from the neighbourhood of Zator, where it has been bred since the 12th century in the numerous ponds of the Carp Valley. Bryndza, photo by M. Flis Kraków pretzels, photo by M. Flis Oscypek, photo by P. Droździk

22 23 LOCAL Recipes Potatoes “caban style” Ingredients: 0.6 kg peeled potatoes, about 10 dag smoked bacon (fatty is the best), about 10 dag DELICACIES sausage, 1 large onion, about 10 dag carrots, lots of green parsley, 1 medium red beet, 2 - 3 cabbage leaves, salt and pepper Preparation: Line the sides of enameled cast iron pot with bacon slices to prevent the ingredients from burning. Place a skin of bacon or lard on the bottom of the pot. Then, arrange layers of thick-cut pota- toes, sausage, onion, carrots, red beets and lots of green parsley, placing each on top of the other. Add salt and pepper to taste. Optionally, you can add chicken or rabbit leg if you wish. Finish by covering the whole dish with the last layer of potatoes and red beets. Cover tight with 2 – 3 cabbage leaves. Put the lid on (you can use a piece of sod with the grass down to avoid contaminating the dish with soil). Place the pot on a brick and start a fire around it. Potatoes bake for approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes. Charsznicki bigos 2 kg fresh white cabbage, 2 kg charsznicka-style sauerkraut, 1 l concentrated bouillon made of smoked ribs, 1 kg pork or game, 50 dag myśliwska sausage, 50 dag smoked bacon, several dried forest mush- rooms, 30 dag onion, 50 dag winey apples (Antonovka or russet), prunes, allspice, black pepper (not ground), salt, bay leaf, caraway, juniper, thyme, marjoram, 0.5 l dry red wine Add chopped fresh cabbage and sauerkraut to the bouillon together with peeled and diced apples. Meat for bigos can be baked or boiled. The sausage needs to be chopped. Meat needs to be fried with smoked bacon and chopped onion. Cut mushrooms (preferably steeped the day before) and boil gen- tly. Then add meat, sausage and mushrooms to the bouillon, cabbage and sauerkraut. Season with herbs and salt and stew everything together for 2–3 hours. Throughout the stewing process, add lit- tle portions of wine. (The whole process may take a few days if you stew bigos for 1–2 hours every day and store it in a cold place, or even in the freezer, in-between the stewing sessions. Bigos is ready to eat on the first day, but the more we stew it, the better it tastes!) Moskole 1 kg potatoes, 1 glass buttermilk or sour milk, ½ kg flour, salt Boil potatoes in their jackets, peel and grind them. Add flour, buttermilk and salt to taste. Knead the dough, roll it out and shape oval centimetre-thick clumps. Bake gently on a tray or fry in a deeper pan. Best served with garlic butter, bundz cheese or bryndza cheese. Kołacz jodłownicki Dough: 35 dag flour, 0.33 l milk, 10 dag fat, salt, sugar, 2 dag yeast Cheese substance: 20 dag cottage cheese (twaróg), 3 eggs, 3 spoonfuls sugar, 1 spoonful potato flour, raisins, aroma Prepare the cheese substance: mix minced cottage cheese with sugar, eggs and flour. Prepare the dough: make a leaven of yeast, warm milk and part of the flour. Leave it on the side to ma- ture and double its size. Then add the rest of the flour, sugar and salt. Knead the dough once again and shape a round 3–4 cm thick clump, slightly thicker round the edges. Spread the cheese substance Potatoes “caban style”, photo by Arch. LGD over it and add raisins. Bake at 190°C for 40–50 minutes. Partnerstwo na Jurze Moskole, photo by M. Zaręba Kołacz jodłownicki, UMWM photo archive Regional delicacies, photo by K. Bańkowski

24 25 LOCAL Calendar of culinary events Event Place Date Website Description Kraków, Tar- nów, Miechów, Małopolska Festi- Oświęcim, Wa- www.smak.malopol- a fair and a competition for the best traditional, local and DELICACIES val of Taste – June–July dowice, Wie- ska.pl ecological products and dishes semi-final fairs liczka or Nowy Targ Blossoming beginning of an aviation picnic connected with artistic performances Łososina Dolna www.lososina.pl Orchards Festival May and air shows a presentation of local cuisines and traditional fruit prod- Blossoming Ap- beginning of Łącko www.swieto.lacko.pl ucts, particularly the famously strong plum vodka, called ple-Tree Festival May ­śliwowica łącka a presentation of the crop as well as the cultural achieve- Fruit Picking Łącko September www.gok.lacko.pl ments of the region, accompanied by performances by Festival ­folklore bands a fair promoting the traditional bakery goods, organised www.produktyregio- Bread Festival Kraków June together with the semi-final of the Małopolska Festival nalne.edu.pl of Taste the area around Rajbrot is a real strawberry capital: appa- Rajbrot Strawber- beginning www.lipnicamurowa- rently this is where the best Polish strawberries grow and Rajbrot ry Festival of June na.pl are made into a variety of specialities, which can be tasted during the festival www.muzeum.wie- an event organised by the Kraków Saltworks Museum: inclu- Salt Festival Wieliczka June liczka.pl des exhibitions, lectures and presentations about salt one of the many events organised as part of the Carp Val- first half ley Festival in Zator (the centre of the valley), where you can Carp Festival Zator www.dolinakarpia.org of July try a variety of dishes made of carp and other fish from the local ponds first half an unmissable opportunity to taste exquisite honeys and Beekeeper’s Feast Stróże www.bartnik.pl of July honey-based products a competition for the best Podhale-style dishes; an oppor- Regional Dishes Łopuszna mid-July www.tischnerowka.pl tunity to taste various mountain delicacies prepared by the Competition locals Zubrzyca second half www.orawa.eu an event combining folklore and ethnography, organised by Blueberry Feast Górna of July www.odkryjorawe.pl the Orawa Ethnographical Park the area around the villages of Słomniki and Radziemice Małopolska Garlic second half is a traditional place of growing garlic. The garlic festival is Prandocin www. mgckslomniki.pl Festival of July a great occasion to taste garlic-seasoned dishes, such as gar- lic soup, pig with garlic, various sausages and salads Galician Pot (Ko- end of Nowy Sącz www.muzeum.sacz.pl culinary competition, tastings and a fair of local products ciołek Galicyjski) August www.bialydunajec. an opportunity to try various specialities made of fresh Trout Festival Biały Dunajec end of July com.pl ­trout during the best fish dish competition

Bread Festival, photo by M. Zaręba

26 27 Feast of Bear, LOCAL Honey and mid-August www.poronin.pl honey and honey-based product competition Beekepers a competition for the most delicious pierogi, prepared by Kraków’s restaurateurs. The festival refers to the tradition Pierogi Festival Kraków mid-August www.krakow.travel DELICACIES of pierogi-making on the feast of the Assumption of the Vir- gin Mary (15 August) Małopolska last weekend www.smak.malopol- Festival of Taste Kraków of August ska.pl – finals as part of the Borzęcin Days celebrations, the local autho- rities organise the best mushroom dish competition de- Borzęcin Feast of last weekend Borzęcin www.swietogrzyba.pl signed for all agrotourism households; the neighbouring Mushroom of August spacious forests are famous for their abundance of edible mushrooms www.zrzeszeniep- Kraków Honey first half of a festival of beekeepers celebrated in Kraków’s Wolnica Squ- Kraków szczelarzykrakow- Harvest September are; a fair of apiarian products and lectures skich.pl first half of a market of local products and a competition for the best Feast of Prune Dobrociesz www.iwkowa.pl September dish with prunes Potato field near www.partnerstwona- the event presenting culinary tradition, culture and crafts of the castle of Wygiełzów September jurze.pl the western part of Małopolska Lipowiec this event refers to the orchard traditions of the district of Feast of Apple Czasław September www.raciechowice.pl Raciechowice and offers presentations of the local cuisine, and Pear as well as numerous competitions second the place is famous for its cabbage-growing tradition; a gre- Charsznica www. charsznica. Charsznica Sunday at occasion to taste, among other things, charsznicki bigos Cabbage Days naszgok.pl of September made from the local cabbage this festival celebrates dishes made with local beans, prepa- Feast of Beans Zakliczyn September www.zakliczyninfo.pl red by Polish and international festival guests second half www.ugtrzyciaz. potatoes in every possible shape or form: baked, stewed, Potato Day Trzyciąż of September itcom.pl boiled, cold and hot, in salads, cakes, soups… Great Carp first half competitions for the best local product, tastings of the spe- Zator www.dolinakarpia.org Harvest of October cialities of the Carp Valley, fishing shows Christmas-Eve Ta- a week befo- www.smak.malopol- a fair of Christmas dishes and delicacies during a Christmas Kraków ste of Małopolska re Christmas ska.pl market in the Market Square

Pierogi Festival, photo by J. Michalczak

28 29 MałopolskaPunkty Informacji Tourist Information Turystycznej System Points Notes

Kraków Nowy Targ Tuchów Wadowice InfoKraków, ul. Powiśle 11, 31-101 Kraków Rynek 1, 34-400 Nowy Targ ul. Chopina 10, 33-170 Tuchów ul. Kościelna 4, 34-100 Wadowice \+48 12 354 27 10 \+48 18 266 30 36 \+48 14 652 54 36 \+48 33 873 23 65 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.infokrakow.pl www.it.nowytarg.pl www.tuchow.pl [email protected] InfoKraków, ul. św. Jana 2, 31-018 Kraków www.it.wadowice.pl Poronin Bochnia \+48 12 354 27 25, [email protected] ul. Józefa Piłsudskiego 2, 34-520 Poronin ul. Solna 2, 32-700 Bochnia Andrychów InfoKraków, ul. Józefa 7, 31-056 Kraków \+48 18 207 42 98 \+ 48 14 615 36 36 Rynek 27, 34-120 Andrychów \+48 12 354 27 28, [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] \+48 33 842 99 36 InfoKraków Sukiennice www.poronin.pl www.bochnia.eu [email protected] Rynek Główny 1/3, 31-042 Kraków www.andrychow.eu Rabka-Zdrój \+48 12 354 27 16 Oświęcim ul. Parkowa 2, 34-700 Rabka-Zdrój Sucha Beskidzka [email protected] ul. St. Leszczyńskiej 12, 32-600 Oświęcim \+48 18 269 15 53 \+48 33 843 00 91 ul. Zamkowa 1, 34-200 Sucha Beskidzka InfoKraków, ul. Szpitalna 25, 31-024 Kraków [email protected], \+48 33 874 26 05 \+48 12 354 27 20 [email protected] [email protected] www.it.oswiecim.pl [email protected] [email protected] www.rabkazdroj.visitmalopolska.pl [email protected] InfoKraków Pawilon Wyspiańskiego www.rabka.pl Chrzanów www.muzeum.sucha-beskidzka.pl/it pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, 31-004 Kraków Aleja Henryka 40, 32-500 Chrzanów \+48 12 354 27 23 Białka Tatrzańska \+48 32 623 20 44 Kalwaria Zebrzydowska [email protected] ul. Środkowa 179a, 34-405 Białka Tatrzańska [email protected] ul. Mickiewicza 4 \+48 18 533 19 59 34-130 Kalwaria Zebrzydowska InfoKraków Międzynarodowy Port www.visitmalopolska.pl/chrzanow [email protected] \+48 33 876 66 36 Lotniczy w Balicach, 32-083 Balice ugbukowinatatrzanska.pl Trzebinia [email protected] \+48 12 285 53 41 ul. Kościuszki 74, 32-540 Trzebinia www.kalwaria_zebrzydowska.visitmalopolska.pl [email protected] Biały Dunajec \+48 32 611 08 37 ul. Jana Pawła II 363, 34-425 Biały Dunajec [email protected] Krościenko nad Dunajcem Myślenice \+48 18 200 16 90 Rynek 27, 32-400 Myślenice www.trzebinia.visitmalopolska.pl Rynek 35, 34-450 Krościenko nad Dunajcem [email protected] \+48 12 272 23 12 \ 511 473 203, +48 18 262 30 77 wew. 32 www.gokbialydunajec.pl Wygiełzów [email protected] ul. Podzamcze 1, 32-551 Babice www.kroscienko-nad-dunajcem.pl www.myslenice.visitmalopolska.pl Witów \+48 32 210 93 13 [email protected] Witów 239A, 34-512 Witów obczyce info@-chrzanowski.pl D \+48 18 207 18 98 ul. Podgórska 1, 32-410 www.visit.powiat-chrzanowski.pl [email protected] \+48 12 271 01 53 www.koscielisko.com.pl [email protected] Nowy Sącz ul. Szwedzka 2, 33-300 Nowy Sącz www.dobczyce.visitmalopolska.pl Bukowina Tatrzańska \+48 18 444 24 22 ul. Sportowa 22, 34-530 Bukowina Tatrzańska Wiśniowa [email protected] (Seasonal) Wiśniowa 301, 32-412 Wiśniowa \+48 18 202 54 80 www.ziemiasadecka.info \+48 12 271 44 93 [email protected] [email protected] www.bukowina_tatrzanska.visitmalopolska.pl Krynica-Zdrój www.ug-wisniowa.pl ul. Zdrojowa 4/2, 33-380 Krynica-Zdrój Ochotnica Górna \+48 18 472 55 77 Olkusz Osiedle Ustrzyk 388, 34-453 Ochotnica Górna [email protected] ul. Floriańska 8, 32-300 Olkusz \+48 18 262 41 39 www.krynicazdroj.visitmalopolska.pl \+48 32 642 19 26 [email protected] Limanowa [email protected] www.ssm.ochotnica.pl Rynek 25, 34-600 Limanowa www.olkusz.visitmalopolska.pl Niedzica \+48 18 337 58 00 Miechów ul. Widokowa 3, 34-441 Niedzica [email protected] Plac Kościuszki 1A, 32-200 Miechów \+48 18 261 01 31 www.powiat.limanowa.pl \+48 41 383 13 11 [email protected] [email protected] Tarnów www.miechow.visitmalopolska.pl Rynek 1, 38-340 Biecz Rynek 7, 33-100 Tarnów \+48 13 447 92 47 Wieliczka \+48 14 688 90 90 [email protected] ul. Dembowskiego 2A, 32-020 Wieliczka [email protected] www.biecz.visitmalopolska.pl \+48 12 288 00 52 www.tarnow.travel Sękowa [email protected] Dąbrowa Tarnowska Siary 19, 38-307 Sękowa www.ckit.wieliczka.eu ul. Polna 13, 33-200 Dąbrowa Tarnowska \+48 18 351 87 70 \+48 14 657 00 07 Zakopane [email protected] ul. Kościeliska 7, 34-500 Zakopane [email protected] www.sekowa.pl www.visitmalopolska.pl/DabrowaTarnowska \+48 18 201 20 04 [email protected] www.zakopane.pl

31 Notes

32 Customs and traditions

MAŁOPOLSKA  14 UNESCO World Heritage List sites  255 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route  Wadowice – town of birth of Pope John Paul II  Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia  9 spa resorts  6 national parks  6 geothermal pools  Rafting down the Dunajec gorge  2600 km of bicycle trails  3360 km of mountain trails  65 ski stations

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The project has been funded by Małopolska Region