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Austral V yager S South Georgia, one of the world’s most remote islands, is renowned as the destination of the James Caird voyage in 1916. After landing on the south coast, Ernest Shackleton’s team made the first recorded crossing of the island’s wild interior to reach the whaling station at Stromness. Veteran British mountaineer Stephen Venables organised his seventh expedition to South Georgia in 2016, and his team made several first ascents including Mount Baume and Starbuck Peak. The latter is possibly the hardest technical climb yet achieved on the island, which Venables had been wanting to climb for twenty-seven years THIS PAGE: A pause to enjoy the splendour of South Georgia’s Spenceley Glacier, named after the late George Spenceley, on the second of Duncan Carse’s famous survey expeditions. The skyline to the north is filled by the giants of the Allardyce Range. On the left, Mt Paget (2934m) is the highest peak on the island, first climbed by the British Joint Services expedition in 1965. Both Crag Jones and Skip Novak have made rare repeat ascents. In the centre is Mt Rootes, first climbed by a services expedition in the 1990s, with Mt Nordenskjöld on the right, first climbed by Crag Jones and Dave Willets in 2011. STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY | STEPHEN VENABLES 20 | Climb Climb | 21 With our crampons crunching up mushrooms of Patagonia-style rime, the sun was setting over the edge of the Southern Ocean, a thousand miles from the nearest city in South America. It felt very precious. outh Georgia is a very long way away I finally crossed the Antarctic Convergence. mentality, reluctant to put our heads above the repeating the Edwardian hero’s legendary 1916 the wind. But on a good day, with a fair wind on diagonally across a wall of blank rock. I would from anywhere, and it’s very hard to Once on the island, I was enthralled by the parapet, exaggerating the menace outside. trek across the mountains for the IMAX film the beam, dolphins dancing in the bow spume and clearly have to return again to the Salvesen Range. get to. If it hadn’t been for Julian novelty of it all, in particular the constant Despite that timidity, we climbed some nice Shackleton’s Antarctic Adventure. albatrosses circling overhead, it is a wonderful I put together a suitably alluring prospectus, SFreeman-Attwood’s suggestion in interplay of decay and renewal. peaks during short breaks, and then, just as the It was a gregarious outing, with some seriously way to travel to your mountains, always in the and in August 2014 six of us plus our ‘support 1989 that we organise an expedition to this very Grey whale bones, speckled with orange food was about to run out, we got a full two day experienced people like Brian Hall, Paul Ramsden safe hands of outstanding skippers and crews. team’ arrived off the coast, with Skip eyeing remote island, 750 miles from the nearest airstrip, lichen, littered the beach beside a rusting hulk weather window. Lindsay and Julian made the and Nick Lewis running the show, while we The Shackleton Traverse crosses the north- ruefully the carapace of ice shrouding his I probably would never even have contemplated where blue-eyed shags nested in the tussock grass first ascent of a fine peak called Mt Kling, with three – ‘The Climbers’ – tramped in the hallowed western end of the island and takes in some fine floating life’s investment, which now looked like the idea. colonising her bows. Giant petrels, the yellow- Julian leading the headwall of rotten rock overlaid footsteps of Shackleton, Crean and Worsley, country, but after my second crossing in 2008 the doomed vessel in The Rime of the Ancient Lacking a private yacht, we needed the blessing eyed vultures of the south, squabbled over the by sugar – the only bit of real technical climbing tracing their masterpiece of intuitive route-finding I yearned to get back to the wilder end of the Mariner. I had persuaded him that late winter of the military, who had been in charge since placenta of a new born elephant seal pup. Over achieved in nearly three months on the island. over thirty miles of what was, back in 1916, a island. So, in 2010, I found a team willing to would be good: there should be good snow cover Argentinian ‘scrap metal merchants’ landed all this, there’s the passive-aggressive whimper of Meanwhile, Brian and I skied thirteen miles totally unknown, unmapped glacial wilderness. finance a Pelagic Australis trip and ski from our on the glaciers, right down to the beach. illegally seven years earlier as a prelude to the the fur seals; the keening wail of the light-mantled south, stopped to pitch the tent for afternoon We took about the same time as Shackleton’s old 1989 starting point in Royal Bay, continuing Alas, persistent south-westerlies stopped us Falklands War. So, cheered on by Julian, I pulled sooty albatrosses nesting in the tussock; and the tea, before continuing on foot to the previously team - 36 hours - but in our case spread over three past Mt Carse, all the way down to the southern landing at my chosen beach on the south coast strings at the Ministry of Defence, grateful for massed trumpeting of the three hundred thousand untouched summit of Mt Carse. It seemed a waste days, with the luxury of being able to stop and tip of the island. Alan Scowcroft and Ian and our attempts from the less convenient the generosity of influential top brass prepared to or so king penguins. We passed the latter as we to be with one of Britain’s finest mountaineers on pitch a tent at night. Like Shackleton, Crean and Searle were seriously good skiers; Ian Calder, a Drygalski Fjord fizzled out in the face of bitter, vouch for us, and in October 1989 we delivered tramped round St Andrew’s Bay on our way a snow plod. But what a plod it was! Just to be Worsley, we travelled in the austral autumn – May distinguished retired anaesthetist, was more of a blasting spindrift. So we offered our clients the thirty-six barrels of food, gas, and a bundle of to Royal Bay, where the ‘Endurance Airways’ there, at the end of a long, long day, crampons in their case, April in ours – but unlike them we survival skier and mountaineering novice, but he unclimbed Trident peaks instead, which we had skis to HMS Endurance just before she sailed helicopter pilot had kindly dropped eighteen crunching up mushrooms of Patagonia-style rime, found the Crean glacier a hideous maze of open rose splendidly to the occasion, towing his pulk often skied past on the more accessible Shackleton from Portsmouth on her annual southern patrol. barrels of food and fuel to see us well into 1990. with the sun setting over the furthest edge of crevasses. Nowadays, the isotherm is much higher by day, and in the tent at night regaling us with Traverse. They proved a magnificent consolation A month later, we flew down with the RAF and And then there was the weather. We chose the Southern Ocean, a thousand miles from the than it was in 1916, and by late summer the large tracts of H.W. Tilman’s incomparable prose prize, climbed on three successive days, with the joined Endurance in the Falklands for the final initially to explore the Salvesen Range at the nearest city in South America, felt very precious. comforting snow blanket has gone. Leaping one that he’d committed to memory. Unlike the static central summit, now named Poseidon, giving 800 mile crossing to South Georgia. southern end of the island. Tents imploded as the Sailing home on RFA Diligence in February humongous crevasse, Reinhold Messner landed trench warfare of my first trip, on this occasion some beautiful mixed climbing for Skip, myself, Captain, officers and crew were incredibly katabatic gusts came screaming at us from every 1990, I thought how lucky we had been, and badly, fracturing a metatarsal. As he continued we were mobile, skiing with shelter and supplies Nick Putnam, David McMeeking, Mark Dravers hospitable to the eccentric collection of civilians direction and our load-carrying was abandoned. assumed that was that: our expedition had been uncomplaining for the next two days, limping in our pulks and, despite some mixed weather, we and the famous Chilean climber Rodrigo Jordan code-named SOMEX (the Southern Ocean Naïvely, perhaps, we chose to put our mountain a unique, never to be repeated, experience. But stoically on his broken foot, shuffling à cheval were able to travel every day. (the first person to climb Everest from east, south Mountaineering Expedition) billeted on their base on the Ross Pass. It was a logical access point ten years later, out of the blue, I was invited to between chasms when required, we began to It was one of the best ski tours I have ever done, and north). already crowded ship. to the glacial hinterland 600 metres above sea go back. It was Shackleton that did it. Or, to be understand something of the iron will behind and the final steep descent into Drygalski Fjord All those Salvesen summits, though, were still Lindsay Griffin, Climb’s mountaineering editor, level, but also the most prominent wind funnel on more precise, the growing resurgence of interest the legend. made a fantastic grand climax. But earlier, on the unclimbed. So we drummed up another team for resplendent in pink and turquoise fleece, had the entire island.

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