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MEMORABLE WILDLIFE ADVENTURES: – “MORE THAN FOOD FOR THE SOUL” By Nadine Bolttler

When one mentions the Kruger National Park, images of Africa’s free roaming wildlife immediately pop into your mind and invariably those of the “Big 5”, Elephant, Rhino, Leopard, Lion and Buffalo.

But this massive tract of magnificent land is not only home to these big creatures. With thanks to the visionary of great people such as Paul Kruger and James Stevenson-Hamilton, the rich diversity of animal, bird and plant species has been preserved for many years and the Kruger National Park is one of the largest sanctuaries on the African continent. There are rest camps, hides, picnic spots, wilderness and adventure trails, mountain bike trails, bush braais, guided walks, historical sites and even a golf course at for the visitor to enjoy. The Park also has a unique cultural link with evidence of prehistoric man, stone age man and bushman like sites of the Albasini and Masorini ruins and Thulamela in the far Northern region, a stone walled site which dates back 450-500 years. Many historical tales have been told about settlers in the area and the “Jock of the Bushveld” route also traversed the Kruger in the 1800’s. Jock’s birthplace is marked along the Voortrekker Road which runs southeast of Pretoriuskop Camp. The bronze plaque commemorates the bravery and loyalty of this very special dog.

The Park is a learning centre, educating people on how the bush operates and how the different cycles of the environment all play a role. This information and knowledge is vital in order to appreciate Kruger and the National Parks in general. Recordings of how the Park was in the old days can be found in the Stevenson-Hamilton Memorial Library in Skukuza. Harry Wolhuter, the first game ranger in the Kruger National Park, was attacked by a lion whilst on horseback in August 1903 and dragged from his horse. He managed to wrestle with the lion and eventually killed it and the knife which he used as well as the original skin of the lion can be found on display at the Library.

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The Elephant Hall in Letaba rest camp is an elephant museum which covers the history, behaviour, biology and ecology of these incredible mammals and it showcases the ivory of the “magnificent seven”, a group of tuskers that roamed the Kruger from the 1920’s and 1930’s through to the 1980’s and were named from their physical features. Their legacy remains in some of the younger elephants in the Park. The museum offers fascinating information and displays.

Kruger scientists continue to conduct research, do annual census and manage the soil, vegetation and animal life. The Kruger National Park and it’s infrastructure is currently looked after by the South African National Parks and this will hopefully continue for many more years to come in order to maintain it and protect the creatures big and small for future generations.

Having been fortunate enough to visit most sections of this beautiful Park many times during my journey through life, from carefree childhood holidays and school tours to trips with my own children and family, these experiences never fail to enrich me. Nowhere else can one really “switch off” from routines and responsibilities of everyday life and “tune” into all of our senses like one can in the Kruger. One feels inferior as the power of your surroundings and sense of quietness engulfs you. The different colours, textures, light and sounds enhance these moments and with no guarantees of any particular sighting in the bush, each time you visit something new is on offer.

Wherever you are in the Park, life moves at an unhurried pace so travelling slowly along the tarred or gravel roads is perfect for just taking it all in. Whether you are on an early morning or late afternoon drive, there is seldom a dull moment!

Breath-taking scenery can be seen through every window of the car with distant views of koppies and Mountain ranges. When driving through Riverine areas, large Jackal-berry and Nyala trees line the roads and if you are in the Northern part of Kruger, ancient Baobabs dominate the horizon. Another highlight in the Northern section of the Park is the Pafuri forest with its giant sausage, leadwood and fever trees, herds of Nyala, prolific birdlife and of course the road bridge over the Luvuvhu River. “Crooks Corner” borders on three countries – , Mozambique and Zimbabwe and it was here that those escaping the law in the early 1800’s would head to so they could easily cross one of the borders to safety!

The open grasslands provide great viewing of large herds of plains game such as zebra, wildebeest and impala with a few warthog dotted here and there between Acacia “umbrella” thorn trees and termite mounds and very often a rhino or two can be spotted amongst the grazers. Passing through denser vegetation, tall giraffes with their beautiful brown eyes and long eyelashes flirt with the tops of Acacia trees as they browse peacefully.

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Lilac breasted rollers perch on bushes next to the road or a sudden burst of turquoise is revealed as they ‘roll’ in the air in front of the vehicle to catch a small flying insect. Bateleur Eagles can also be seen soaring on the thermals above. If you see plenty of birds forming a circle in the sky above, these are usually vultures having spotted a kill on the ground below with their amazing eyesight and they’ll be waiting for their turn on the carcass along with the other scavengers once the predators have moved off. Keep a lookout for lazy leopards resting up in large, shady trees. Often they have dragged their prey up the tree as well.

Whenever we have passed a “windmill” reservoir, very often a lone bull elephant has arrived to drink. If he is relaxed and we are quite a distance from him, we turn off the engine. You can hear slurping noises as he takes the water in through his trunk to quench his thirst or if it’s very hot, he sprays it over the top part of his head and back. You can also hear his ears flapping as they act as fans to cool him down. Whilst watching him, listen for other sounds and birds calling from nearby trees like the crested or black-collared barbets or the emerald spotted dove.

I love that feeling of surprise and expectation when approaching a low level bridge….what will we see?.... hippos lying in the water, crocodiles basking in the sun on the dry river banks or a rare Saddlebilled stork standing in the shallow water in anticipation of a meal while a Pied Kingfisher flutters above. Switch off your engine, open the windows and just listen and observe. One may be surprised with the call of a Fish Eagle in the distance. The same applies when crossing a “spruit/sloot” or smaller bridge. On one occasion, we were looking at the fish in the water below when suddenly a female leopard and her cub darted out of the long grass. Hyenas also love to laze here during the hot, summer days or they make their dens in culverts under the road.

Lion are on top of the checklist for any visitor to the Kruger Park and when they are spotted, a major traffic jam ensues even though they are fat, lazy and totally oblivious to all the attention they receive during the heat of the day. On occasion, however, you can be treated to a spectacular sighting of lion on the move, or as we did, a gigantic male (rather scarred) just walking along the tar road next to the car whilst the baboon and monkeys threw abuse from the tree tops (warning any potential prey below of his approach!) We have also been treated to two young lions practising how to bring down prey on a helpless scrub hare! This was something rare to see as they ‘played’ with it for a long time, trying to pin it down clumsily with large paws but eventually it outwitted them and escaped but not without them in hot pursuit!

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Stopping at a waterhole and having it all to yourself at anytime of the day and anywhere in the Park is another of my favourite activities. With no other vehicles around, you can find the perfect place to park and settle down with binoculars in hand. There are usually a few male waterbuck grazing quietly on the sides next to a lone wildebeest and warthog have a great time wallowing in the moist, sludgy mud or kneel down to eat the bits of green grass along the edges.

In the foreground, Plovers, Sandpipers and Hamerkops can be seen patrolling the shallows for tadpoles or frogs. An old, dead Leadwood tree sticks out in the middle of the dam or waterhole making an ideal perch for reed cormorants and African darters to dry their wings or perfect for a buffalo weavers nest if it has a generous fork in it.

What can be seen in the distance through binoculars never ceases to amaze me. Smaller bird species like Blue waxbill hopping between the branches or even small flocks of Little bee-eaters with their beautiful turquoise eyebrows and green and yellow markings flitting about feeding on airborne insects. Kudu, zebra, wildebeest or even a herd of elephant can saunter along the animal paths to come for a drink. It is a completely tranquil scene and one can often forget that life exists outside of the Park at times like these. But the peace is a thing of the past as soon as one or two Egyptian geese announce their arrival or a hippo surfaces the water with a loud grunt! Some dams are situated close by to the rest camps making them idyllic spots to experience a Lowveld sunset whilst sipping on a sundowner refreshment!

Animals (and some birds) often cross the road behind you once you have driven past. We’ve seen the smaller creatures like mongoose and meerkats or the larger Kori bustard, the world’s heaviest flying bird as well as Ground Hornbills, so keep a lookout in your rear view mirror!. The slower species like tortoises and chameleon can become fatalities in an instant with speeding and try to avoid large mounds of elephant dung in the road as much as possible as some dung beetles make this there home whilst other species are doing a great amount of work rolling the dung to carry it off to their homes for feeding purposes. Stop and observe this as it is fascinating how quickly they roll the dung into balls!

One can never spend too much time in the Kruger Park due to Mother Nature’s abundance. As the seasons change, so does the surrounding bush and game movements are influenced by the availability of water. Many believe a visit to the Park in the drier Autumn and Winter months between April and August is the best as more game (including large buffalo herds) congregates alongside the Rivers and around the water holes. The grass is also not as long making game easier to spot. Autumn colours start appearing provided by the Mopane trees in the North of the Park.

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The Impala rut takes place (as does the Blue Wildebeest rut) between the young males and once the winner has marked his territory, he gathers himself a generous breeding herd of ewes and much chasing and snorting occurs to keep them in check. Red-billed oxpeckers sit on the Impala and other species to keep parasites at bay. The magnificent Impala Lily also flowers and these smallish plants can be seen on rocky, sandstone areas and around the various Camps with their grey stems and contrasting bright pink and white ‘star’ shaped flowers.

The Summer months between October and January, however, can be just as rewarding with the arrival of the bushveld babies after the first rains….impala lambs, zebra foals, wildebeest calves and migrant birds such as the Woodland Kingfisher. A common birdcall during the summer months is that of the Redchested cuckoo (or known to South Africans as the “Piet-my-vrou”) and the Whitefronted bee-eaters gorge on the plentiful butterflies. Foam nest frogs or Grey tree frogs lay their eggs in foam to protect them from drying out and from predators. Keep a lookout for these interesting foam-nests at most rain pools. They look like giant marshmallows! Various shrubs such as “Pride-of-De Kaap” (or Bauhinia galpinii) flower abundantly and afternoon drives can be intensified with an approaching thunderstorm on the horizon followed by spectacular lightning dotting the surrounding landscape.

Stop, open the windows and smell the moisture hanging in the air – a slight breeze rustles the leaves on the trees and brings with it that promise of rain. The loud buzzing noise of Cicada or Christmas beetles can also be heard.

Impala and baboon are so frequently seen that not many visitors even give them a second glance. Be sure to stop next time you encounter a baboon troop as the interactions between the youngsters in particular offer hilarious entertainment and this sighting is always rewarding for photos. Our family can sit and watch them for ages!

On our first day in the Kruger Park, arriving at the rest camp of our choice usually in the late afternoon just before the gate closes is an experience in itself. Once checked in, we drive to our accommodation, unpack the car and invariably find that something has been left behind so make our way to the camp shop. We join the other visitors in line at the tills often discussing the days sightings before paying for firewood, charcoal, ice and a six pack of beer before heading back to our bungalow. Firewood purchased from the shop is a must as it is usually proper bushveld wood that has the best aroma when burning.

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I just love the Camp atmosphere at dusk. Fires are lit and as I sit with a cold G & T, I can feel myself unwinding. Magnificent hues of oranges and reds are painted across the crimson sky as the sun starts to dip for the day. I listen to the distant laughter from other bungalows or from the caravan/camp site and see other visitors enjoying a stroll around the perimeter fence watching a troop of noisy baboon passing by on route to finding a suitable roosting tree for the night, the youngsters no doubt being disciplined by the elders! Impala and Bushbuck still graze on the lawn, completely unaware of the people, but safe within the confines of the Camp from any predators for the night!

Slowly but surely, darkness approaches, (or as Kobie Kruger wrote in her book “Mahlangeni ~ Stories of a Game Ranger’s Family”, it plummets). The birdsong gradually fades and a soft hush descends upon the Camp with a distant call of an African Scops Owl.

There is still feint chatter as the fires have burned down to coals and the most irresistible smells of braaied meat fill the air. We turn on our torches and look for “eyes” at the fence as this will definitely have attracted night visitors like Hyaena and Jackal. After supper, Nightjars start up and if a Lion roars somewhere across the vast bushveld or other nocturnal predators like Hyena and Jackal start cackling and yelping, everyone in the Camp goes quiet again. On clear nights, a full moon rising or millions of stars in the milky way above also reminds one of how fortunate you are to be experiencing the Kruger National Park and for a moment, it is easy to forget that you even have a job and need to work to make a living!

The heralding of the dawn is usually from noisy Francolin or arrow-marked babblers in the nearby undergrowth, however, our family are up even earlier as we want to be the first at the gate before the night guard opens up. This is very seldom the case though as just about everyone else that is visiting Kruger has the same idea! But it is still wonderful to be in the queue of cars all betting who is going to see what first.

As you drive along, the sun gradually throws its first light onto the bush and huge spider webs are revealed hanging from bushes lining the sides of the road as the morning dew glistens on these masterpieces. There is nothing that makes one feel more alive and inspired than an early morning drive through the Kruger. Everything that the eye can see seems revitalized and fresh and the crisp, clean smell in the air fills your lungs.

Often we have discussed our route for the day the night before and have packed enough food and drinks to enjoy at a suitable picnic site. It is great fun to get out the Kruger “map” and plan which roads and loops we will follow and which Camps we can include to stop at or to enjoy our meal at. Many of the Camps have a “sightings” board at the Reception area indicating which animals have been seen and where.

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Different colour pins symbolise the various species (usually the Big 5 as well as Cheetah and Wild Dog) and our family enthusiastically never miss having a look at this. A variety of birds can be found in the different species of trees at these Camps we stop at from green pigeons and Brown-headed parrots to black-headed Oriole and busy masked-weavers. If the Camp we have stopped at is situated along a river, sitting on a bench with binoculars scanning the opposite banks is extremely relaxing and many waterbirds can be spotted. If you stretch your legs at Skukuza, the bats hanging from the thatched lapa outside the Restaurant are always a hit!

Other times we pack a flask of coffee and a few rusks and sit at a dam, waterhole or elevated rocky outcrop and just let the time pass and let the bush unfold before us whilst the sun moves higher into the sky. We then return to our Camp, freshen up and prepare breakfast or brunch at the bungalow as we find that the rest Camps offer something special to.

Whilst preparing our meal, an abundance of birdlife such as Hornbills and Glossy Starlings suddenly appear not to mention the smaller creatures like squirrels, lizards, beetles and butterflies. Woodpeckers can be heard “tap tapping” into the trunks of surrounding trees with their beaks but unfortunately the inquisitive vervet monkeys are not encouraged as they have become pests from too many visitors feeding them and tend to get slightly aggressive when food is around.

A peaceful walk around the camp after breakfast/brunch is a must. Trees have labels on them making for easy identification and the smaller owl species such as the Pearl-spotted owl can be seen roosting in the shade of some of the larger ones. The Park has recently built swimming pools at some of the main rest camps which are perfect to relax at (and of course in) during the heat of the day, especially for the children. The natural rock pool at Pretoriuskop is my favourite and many a hot December day has been spent here with my children! The colourful Bougainvillia planted by Harry Wolhuter adds magnificent colour to the Camp as well.

One year we stayed at Talamati Bushveld Camp in the furthermost bungalow which was situated right next to the boundary fence and the first one right in front of the river bed. A pride of lion walked up and down this boundary fence for most of the night and then proceeded to make a kill in the early hours of the morning somewhere along the dry riverbed.

When the male roared, the windows of the bungalow vibrated to such an extent that it felt as though the panes of glass were going to fall out! This made such an impression on us that we still talk about it to this day! A wonderful memory of Kruger….

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We have been extremely lucky to experience some very unique sightings during our visits. Some we would’ve preferred not to witness, like during the terrible drought of 1992 with no grazing or water for the animals and then the complete opposite during the floods of 2000 and 2007.

Although this balance has to occur in order for the cycles to continue and for nature to thrive, it often seems cruel. During our stay at in December 2007, I will never forget how many pairs of crocodile “eyes” we saw in the swollen causeway of the Shingwedzi River just below the Camp. We also heard a coughing Leopard numerous times during our stay here but of course never got to see this elusive creature!

Other sightings include three male cheetahs next to the side of the road after pulling down a male waterbuck, a massive pride of lion feeding on a rhino after it had died following a territorial fight between 2 males. At first we thought it had been poached as it’s horn was missing, however, we heard from the many onlookers that Kruger rangers had already removed it.

The unbearable stench from the rotting carcass as well as the literally millions of vehicles that this rare sighting attracted caused us to head in a different direction. A few meters up the same road, we saw a tiny cub walking with Mom perhaps on the way to feed with the rest of the pride or perhaps just on the move. Either way, it was special to see such a huge Lioness out in the open with her baby and we were the only car.

One early morning when driving along the Fayi Loop just a few meters from Pretoriuskop Camp, we came across a pack of Wild Dog. Switching off the engine, we waited whilst they sniffed around the road. They then proceeded to cross in front of us and at first it looked as though they were just walking along to drink at one of the rain pools further in, however, just as they disappeared behind a thicket, a poor common Duiker grazing quietly became a quick meal. We were flabbergasted at how quickly it disappeared and how fast they ate this meal. Little was left of the small buck just minutes afterwards.

Our night drives at some of the Kruger camps have also been so rewarding and being accompanied by good Rangers, we’ve seen some wonderful stuff – Giant eagle owls, bushbabies, civet, African wildcat, nightjars, honey badger and of course, scrub hares dodging the headlights of the vehicle. It is just awesome to have generally experienced active nocturnal wildlife.

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Many challenges face the Kruger National Park on a daily basis. Conservation issues such as poaching, visitors breaking the rules within the Park (littering and driving too fast) plus natural occurrences like drought, floods, uncontrolled fires and outbreaks of certain diseases (TB, Anthrax and the recent disease, Pansteatitis , that killed off a number of crocodiles in the Letaba and Olifants Rivers.)

But visiting Kruger is without a doubt a life-changing experience and I am completely hooked. If I ever get offered a choice between a holiday to an exotic, tropical Island or spending time in a European country over a trip to the Kruger National Park, Kruger will win hands down!.

After staying in the Park and experiencing all within it time and time again, these two famous quotes sum it all up perfectly for me.

“The bushveld is a place where the human element shrinks into utter insignificance. It grips you and subdues you and makes you one with yourself” ~Jan Smuts~

“Something will have gone out of us as people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed. We simply need that wild country available to us, even if we never do more than drive to its edge and look in, for it can be a means of reassuring ourselves of our sanity as creatures, as part of the geography of hope….” ~Wallace Stegner~

On that note, I CANNOT wait until my next visit…..