KRUGER NATIONAL PARK – “MORE THAN FOOD for the SOUL” by Nadine Bolttler
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Page 1 MEMORABLE WILDLIFE ADVENTURES: KRUGER NATIONAL PARK – “MORE THAN FOOD FOR THE SOUL” By Nadine Bolttler When one mentions the Kruger National Park, images of Africa’s free roaming wildlife immediately pop into your mind and invariably those of the “Big 5”, Elephant, Rhino, Leopard, Lion and Buffalo. But this massive tract of magnificent land is not only home to these big creatures. With thanks to the visionary of great people such as Paul Kruger and James Stevenson-Hamilton, the rich diversity of animal, bird and plant species has been preserved for many years and the Kruger National Park is one of the largest sanctuaries on the African continent. There are rest camps, hides, picnic spots, wilderness and adventure trails, mountain bike trails, bush braais, guided walks, historical sites and even a golf course at Skukuza for the visitor to enjoy. The Park also has a unique cultural link with evidence of prehistoric man, stone age man and bushman like sites of the Albasini and Masorini ruins and Thulamela in the far Northern region, a stone walled site which dates back 450-500 years. Many historical tales have been told about settlers in the area and the “Jock of the Bushveld” route also traversed the Kruger in the 1800’s. Jock’s birthplace is marked along the Voortrekker Road which runs southeast of Pretoriuskop Camp. The bronze plaque commemorates the bravery and loyalty of this very special dog. The Park is a learning centre, educating people on how the bush operates and how the different cycles of the environment all play a role. This information and knowledge is vital in order to appreciate Kruger and the National Parks in general. Recordings of how the Park was in the old days can be found in the Stevenson-Hamilton Memorial Library in Skukuza. Harry Wolhuter, the first game ranger in the Kruger National Park, was attacked by a lion whilst on horseback in August 1903 and dragged from his horse. He managed to wrestle with the lion and eventually killed it and the knife which he used as well as the original skin of the lion can be found on display at the Library. Page 2 The Elephant Hall in Letaba rest camp is an elephant museum which covers the history, behaviour, biology and ecology of these incredible mammals and it showcases the ivory of the “magnificent seven”, a group of tuskers that roamed the Kruger from the 1920’s and 1930’s through to the 1980’s and were named from their physical features. Their legacy remains in some of the younger elephants in the Park. The museum offers fascinating information and displays. Kruger scientists continue to conduct research, do annual census and manage the soil, vegetation and animal life. The Kruger National Park and it’s infrastructure is currently looked after by the South African National Parks and this will hopefully continue for many more years to come in order to maintain it and protect the creatures big and small for future generations. Having been fortunate enough to visit most sections of this beautiful Park many times during my journey through life, from carefree childhood holidays and school tours to trips with my own children and family, these experiences never fail to enrich me. Nowhere else can one really “switch off” from routines and responsibilities of everyday life and “tune” into all of our senses like one can in the Kruger. One feels inferior as the power of your surroundings and sense of quietness engulfs you. The different colours, textures, light and sounds enhance these moments and with no guarantees of any particular sighting in the bush, each time you visit something new is on offer. Wherever you are in the Park, life moves at an unhurried pace so travelling slowly along the tarred or gravel roads is perfect for just taking it all in. Whether you are on an early morning or late afternoon drive, there is seldom a dull moment! Breath-taking scenery can be seen through every window of the car with distant views of koppies and Mountain ranges. When driving through Riverine areas, large Jackal-berry and Nyala trees line the roads and if you are in the Northern part of Kruger, ancient Baobabs dominate the horizon. Another highlight in the Northern section of the Park is the Pafuri forest with its giant sausage, leadwood and fever trees, herds of Nyala, prolific birdlife and of course the road bridge over the Luvuvhu River. “Crooks Corner” borders on three countries – South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe and it was here that those escaping the law in the early 1800’s would head to so they could easily cross one of the borders to safety! The open grasslands provide great viewing of large herds of plains game such as zebra, wildebeest and impala with a few warthog dotted here and there between Acacia “umbrella” thorn trees and termite mounds and very often a rhino or two can be spotted amongst the grazers. Passing through denser vegetation, tall giraffes with their beautiful brown eyes and long eyelashes flirt with the tops of Acacia trees as they browse peacefully. Page 3 Lilac breasted rollers perch on bushes next to the road or a sudden burst of turquoise is revealed as they ‘roll’ in the air in front of the vehicle to catch a small flying insect. Bateleur Eagles can also be seen soaring on the thermals above. If you see plenty of birds forming a circle in the sky above, these are usually vultures having spotted a kill on the ground below with their amazing eyesight and they’ll be waiting for their turn on the carcass along with the other scavengers once the predators have moved off. Keep a lookout for lazy leopards resting up in large, shady trees. Often they have dragged their prey up the tree as well. Whenever we have passed a “windmill” reservoir, very often a lone bull elephant has arrived to drink. If he is relaxed and we are quite a distance from him, we turn off the engine. You can hear slurping noises as he takes the water in through his trunk to quench his thirst or if it’s very hot, he sprays it over the top part of his head and back. You can also hear his ears flapping as they act as fans to cool him down. Whilst watching him, listen for other sounds and birds calling from nearby trees like the crested or black-collared barbets or the emerald spotted dove. I love that feeling of surprise and expectation when approaching a low level bridge….what will we see?.... hippos lying in the water, crocodiles basking in the sun on the dry river banks or a rare Saddlebilled stork standing in the shallow water in anticipation of a meal while a Pied Kingfisher flutters above. Switch off your engine, open the windows and just listen and observe. One may be surprised with the call of a Fish Eagle in the distance. The same applies when crossing a “spruit/sloot” or smaller bridge. On one occasion, we were looking at the fish in the water below when suddenly a female leopard and her cub darted out of the long grass. Hyenas also love to laze here during the hot, summer days or they make their dens in culverts under the road. Lion are on top of the checklist for any visitor to the Kruger Park and when they are spotted, a major traffic jam ensues even though they are fat, lazy and totally oblivious to all the attention they receive during the heat of the day. On occasion, however, you can be treated to a spectacular sighting of lion on the move, or as we did, a gigantic male (rather scarred) just walking along the tar road next to the car whilst the baboon and monkeys threw abuse from the tree tops (warning any potential prey below of his approach!) We have also been treated to two young lions practising how to bring down prey on a helpless scrub hare! This was something rare to see as they ‘played’ with it for a long time, trying to pin it down clumsily with large paws but eventually it outwitted them and escaped but not without them in hot pursuit! Page 4 Stopping at a waterhole and having it all to yourself at anytime of the day and anywhere in the Park is another of my favourite activities. With no other vehicles around, you can find the perfect place to park and settle down with binoculars in hand. There are usually a few male waterbuck grazing quietly on the sides next to a lone wildebeest and warthog have a great time wallowing in the moist, sludgy mud or kneel down to eat the bits of green grass along the edges. In the foreground, Plovers, Sandpipers and Hamerkops can be seen patrolling the shallows for tadpoles or frogs. An old, dead Leadwood tree sticks out in the middle of the dam or waterhole making an ideal perch for reed cormorants and African darters to dry their wings or perfect for a buffalo weavers nest if it has a generous fork in it. What can be seen in the distance through binoculars never ceases to amaze me. Smaller bird species like Blue waxbill hopping between the branches or even small flocks of Little bee-eaters with their beautiful turquoise eyebrows and green and yellow markings flitting about feeding on airborne insects. Kudu, zebra, wildebeest or even a herd of elephant can saunter along the animal paths to come for a drink.