The technical details

Plum-blossoms everywhere I should go south I should go north Yosa Buson (1716-1783) 296 The technical details

Glossary of Japanese words agari – sushi bar slang for tea. azuki (aduki) – small green or red beans used aka-jiso – red shiso. as a paste in Japanese cakes, confections, and akami – red and dark items (tane) used for su- desserts. shi and sashimi, e.g., tuna; (ako, red). aka-miso – red miso made from rice. bancha – ordinary green tea for everyday use amaebi – sweet shrimp; (amai, sweet). made from coarser, larger tea leaves; may amakuchi – sweet sake. contain some twigs. anago – sea eel. basashi – sashimi made from raw horse (uma). aoaka-jiso (hojiso) – green-red shiso with leaves battera – pressed sushi with mackerel, a type which are red or dark purple on the surface of oshi-zushi which is a specialty of Osaka. and green on the underside. bentō – meal arranged in a box divided into ao-jiso – green shiso; (ao, green). sections, usually including rice, tsukemono, ao-nori – flakes of green seaweed. and assorted other small dishes. awase-zu – mixture of rice vinegar, salt, and buri – see hamachi. sugar which is added to cooked sushi rice. Glossary of Japanese words 297 cha – Japanese green tea (Camilla sinensis or denbu – see oboro. Thea sinensis) also called o-cha, which sig- donko – much sought-after shiitake mushroom nifies that the tea is not enzymatically fer- with a small, dark cap. mented (as is black tea, kōcha). The different types of cha are gyokuro, sencha, maccha, ebi – shrimp; but the term encompasses a long bancha, and hōjicha. list of similar crustaceans of varying sizes. chaji – combination of tea ceremony (chanoyu) edamame – young, green soybeans (daizu) and the formal meal (cha-kaiseki). containing two to three beans in each pod. cha-kaiseki – the formal meal served before a Edo – former name of the city of Tokyo; also as- tea ceremony. sociated with the so-called Edo period which chanoyu – ‘the tea’s warm water’, the formal started in 1603 when the shogunate moved way of preparing and drinking whisked from Kyoto to Edo. green tea (maccha) at a tea ceremony. edomae-zushi – nigiri-zushi. Originally sushi chasen – bamboo whisk for mixing green tea made from fish and shellfish from the bay by powder (maccha). Edo, the earlier name for Tokyo; now used to chirashimori – see moritsuke. denote sushi of high quality. chirashi-zushi – scattered sushi (also called enokitake – winter mushroom (Flammulina bara-zushi), a particularly colourful type of velutipes) with long, thin white stalks and a sushi in which fish, shellfish, and green items small cap; grows in a cluster. are placed in a bowl on top of a layer of sushi rice (Tokyo style), on which finely cut nori fu – wheat gluten, also known by its Chinese and a little tobiko roe are sometimes sprin- designation seitan, in either raw form (nama kled. Gomoku-zushi (‘five ingredients sushi’) fu) or roasted or dried (yaki fu). is another type of chirashi-zushi, charac- fugu – pufferfish or blowfish of the Tetraodon- teristic of the Osaka area, in which cooked tiformes family. Liver and ovaries of the fish green vegetables and the other ingredients contain the potent nerve toxin tetrodotoxin. are mixed together with the rice. fukin – cloth for wiping or drying. funa-gata – see nigiri-zushi. daikon – large, white radish (Chinese radish). funamori – see gunkan-maki. daizu – green soybean (Glycine maximus) used funa-zushi – sushi made from the carp Caras- for making tofu, miso, and shōyu among sius auratus, a wild goldfish which lives in other products. Lake Biwa close to Kyoto. dashi – fish stock made from bonito fish flakes furikake – condiment often sprinkled on warm (katsuobushi) and konbu. First dashi (ichi- rice and other dishes; consists of a mixture of ban dashi) and second dashi (niban dashi) salt, dried bits of seaweed, and fish flakes, as refer to the first and second extract of kat- well as toasted black or white sesame seeds. suobushi. futomaki – thick maki-zushi rolls made using deba-bōchō – Japanese knife for cutting up fish a whole sheet of nori. and shellfish. 298 The technical details gari – sushi bar slang for pickled ginger (tsuke- hamachi (inada, buri) – yellowtail, a fine tex- mono) when it is associated with sushi, usu- tured fish well suited for sushi and sashimi. ally sliced very thin. The Japanese word for hangiri – wooden bowl for cooling newly ginger is shōga. cooked sushi rice. genmaicha – tea mixture consisting of ordinary hashi – chopsticks. green tea (bancha) and roasted rice kernels. hashiarai – ‘chopstick wash’; refers to an in- geta – classical Japanese wooden shoe. The term between course at the formal tea ceremony is also used for the simple wooden block with (kaiseki) where a little warm water, to which feet used as a plate for sushi and sashimi. some flavouring has been added, is served goma – sesame seeds (Sesamum indicum); can and drunk to cleanse the mouth and the pal- be white sesame seeds (shiro goma) or black ate following a dish with a strong taste such sesame seeds (kuro goma). as grilled fish or meat. gomai oroshi – five part filleting of fish into hashibukuro – paper sleeve enclosing dispos- four fillets and the remaining skeleton; used able chopsticks (waribashi). for flatfish such as turbot and large rounded hashi-oki – small holder on which the chop- fish like tuna. sticks (hashi) are placed. gomoku-zushi – see chirashi-zushi. haya-zushi – sushi based on cooked rice mixed gu – filling placed in maki rolls or mixed into with rice vinegar and then kept under pres- chirashi-zushi. sure with a stone weight and fermented in a gunkan-maki – sushi made by enclosing ingre- wooden box over a short period (24 hours). dients which might otherwise fall apart in a hijiki – brown seaweed (Sargassum fusiforme). piece of nori; also known as battleship sushi hikari-mono – shiny things (tane) which are (kakomi-zushi or funamori). placed on sushi, such as mackerel and her- gyokuro – green tea of the very best quality. ring which have their silvery skin left on. hirame – flatfish which have the eyes on the hagotae – tooth resistance. left side, e.g., brill and turbot. Flatfish with haiku – minimalist Japanese style of poetry eyes on the right side are called karei. The governed by a set of complicated rules (hai, classification is ambiguous. entertainment, and ku, fragment). Typically hiramori – see moritsuke. the poem consists of three lines with 5, 7, hōchō – Japanese kitchen knife, available in and 5 syllables respectively. various versions each with its specific use, for hako-gata – see nigiri-zushi. example, yanagiba-bōchō for slicing sashimi, hako-zushi – slices of raw fish placed between deba-bōchō for cutting fish and shellfish, and layers of cooked vinegared rice pressed to- usuba-bōchō for cutting vegetables. gether in a small wooden box for about 24 hojicha – roasted green tea (bancha). hours and then eaten immediately thereaf- hokanomono – things (tane) placed on sushi ter; forerunner of the more modern pressed that are not included in the classical cat- Osaka sushi, oshi-zushi, which is usually egories of akami, shiromi, hikari-mono, and made with mackerel. nimono-dane. Glossary of Japanese words 299 hone nuki – tweezers. kakomi-zushi – see gunkan-maki. hon-maguro – bluefin tuna. kampai – ‘Cheers!’ when proposing a toast. hoshi-nori – dried nori. kani – crab. hosomaki – thin maki-zushi rolls made with a kanji – Chinese characters used in Japanese half sheet of nori. written language. hotategai – scallop (Patinopecten yessoensis). kanpachi – great amberjack or rudderfish, closely related to hamachi. ichiban dashi – the firstdashi. kanten – agar, a polymer of galactose, a poly- ika – squid. saccharide derived from seaweed. ikebana – flower arrangement; originally a rit- kappa – cucumber when related to sushi. ual way of arranging flowers bana( , flower) kappa-maki – maki-zushi with cucumber. in Japanese temples where it was practised karakuchi – dry sake. as a meditative art form through which one karei – flatfish which has the eyes on the right could cleanse the soul and find harmony and side, e.g., lemon sole, Greenland halibut, and balance. Ikebana also encompasses stems halibut. Flatfish with the eyes on the left side and leaves, as well as the container in which are called hirame. they are placed. Ikebana is characterized by kasanemori – see moritsuke. a linear, simple appearance and asymmetry. katsuo – skipjack tuna (Katsuwonus pelamis), ikijime – fish that are eaten immediately after also known as bonito; member of the mack- they die and before rigor mortis sets in, so erel family. that their flesh has a firm texture which has katsuobushi – cooked, salted, dried, smoked, not become tender as a result of natural de- and fermented katsuo, which is shaved into composition. Typically white fish are used paper thin flakes; used to make such things and they are killed in iced saltwater to limit as fish stock, dashi. their struggling. The fish are kept in tanks at kazunoko – roe from herring (nishin). the sushi bar, killed, and cut up on the spot. kensho – Japanese Zen-related term for enlight- ikizukuri – sashimi sliced from a whole, freshly ment experiences. killed fish and replaced decoratively on the kihada – yellowfin tuna. fish skeleton before being served. kodomo-zushi – children’s sushi or family ikura – salted salmon roe. sushi, typically maki-zushi with cheerful, inada – see hamachi. colourful patterns in the cross-sections of itamae – he who stands ‘in front of the cutting the rolls. board’, Japanese head chef. A sushi chef is re- kohada – gizzard shad (Clupanodon puncta- ferred to as a sushiya. tus), also known as konoshiro. kōika – cuttlefish Sepia( esculenta). kaiseki – see cha-kaiseki. kōji – fermentation medium made from rice, kaiten-zushi – sushi served on a conveyor belt barley, or soybean paste inoculated with the in a specially constructed sushi bar. mold Aspergillus oryzae. kaki – oysters (Crassostrea gigas). 300 The technical details konbu (kombu) – a large brown kelp (Saccha- miso – salty paste made from fermented soy- rina japonica). beans or grain, such as rice or barley; avail- kona wasabi – artificial wasabi powder made able in many different varieties, such as red from horseradish to which green food colour miso (aka-miso) and white miso (shiro-miso). and mustard powder are added. miso-shiru – miso soup. kōnomono – formal word for tsukemono; origi- miso-zuke – vegetables or fish pickled in miso nally meant a thing associated with incense. paste. kuchi atari – mouthfeel. moriawase – see moritsuke. kuchikami no sake – sake made from cooked moritsuke (moriawase) – overall term for an rice chewed in the mouth; (kuchi, mouth). arrangement of food, for example, sushi and kusaya – salted, fermented fish, typically mack- sashimi: hiramori (thick pieces of sashimi erel. standing on edge), yosemori (two or three kushi – bamboo skewers used to hold food to- different pieces placed closely together to gether during preparation. create a contrast), mazemori (a representa- kushi-gata – see nigiri-zushi. tive selection of nigiri-zushi arranged on a kyūri – small Japanese cucumbers which can platter), kasanemori (slices placed so that be eaten raw or as tsukemono. they overlap), sugimori (pieces arranged at an angle to each other to form a slanting pile), maccha – powdered green tea. ōmori (pieces placed in a pile, used for food maguro – bluefin tuna Thunnus( thynnus); see offerings in the temples), and chirashimori also hon-maguro and kihada. (assorted pieces spread out with distance be- makisu – bamboo rolling mat used for making tween them). maki-zushi. moto – mash for production of sake consisting maki-zushi – sushi roll with a sheet of nori ei- of the fermentation medium kōji to which ther on the outside or the inside; (maki, to is added vinegared, cooked rice and a pure roll). yeast culture. manaita – cutting board. mu – emptiness (Zen expression). Manekineko – Japanese good luck cat. masu – volume measure used, for example, nama fu – unprocessed fu; (nama, raw). to characterize the small cedar boxes from nama-zushi – sushi with quickly fermented which one drinks sake. rice, best known from nigiri-zushi. In con- mazemori – see moritsuke. trast to the slowly fermented nare-zushi, the meron (uri) – melon. rice in nama-zushi is eaten. mirin – sweet rice wine with ca. 14% alcohol; namida – tears; used as sushi slang for wasa- used in Japanese food preparation, but not bi. intended to be drunk. nare-zushi – the original form of sushi (aged mirugai (mirukui) – geoduck (Panope genero- sushi), in which slowly fermented rice serves sa). to preserve fish, for example, carp in the Glossary of Japanese words 301

form of funa-zushi. The rice in this type of possibly toasted to make paper thin sheets sushi is not eaten. used for, among other things, making maki- nasu – small Japanese eggplant (Solanum me- zushi. Hoshi-nori is dried nori and yaki-nori longena). is roasted, dry nori that is often spiced with nazuke – pickling in brine (shio-zuke), see also shōyu. tsukemono. nuka – rice bran. neta – things (tane) for putting on nigiri-zushi. nuka-doko (toku) – fermentation medium niban dashi – second dashi. based on rice bran, used to make takuan- nigari – sea salt (bittern), predominantly con- zuke from white radishes (daikon) and other sisting of magnesium chloride, traditionally products. used in Japan as a coagulant in tofu produc- nuka-miso – ‘smelly women’, an expression tion. used in earlier times referring to Japanese nigiri-zushi – hand shaped sushi made of small housewives whose hands took on an odour rice balls on which things (tane) are placed, from the daily stirring of the fermentation e.g., raw fish or shellfish (also callededomae - medium, nuka-doko. zushi). Nigiri means to grasp or hold tightly nuka-zuke – tsukemono made by preserving with the hand. There are five classical ways vegetables in rice bran. of forming the rice ball: kushi-gata, hako- gata, tawara-gata, funa-gata, and ōgi-gata, oboro (denbu) – chopped, cooked, and pressed but kushi-gata is the most common. fish or shellfish formed into a solid that is -fla nimono-dane – cooked and simmered things voured and coloured; primarily sold as imi- (tane) placed on sushi, e.g., octopus, some bi- tation crab. valves, and eel. odori – ‘dancing shrimp’, sweet shrimp (amae- nishin – herring (Clupea pallasii). bi) eaten while still alive and hence said to nitsume – special sauce made from eel stock, move in the mouth when eaten. used for glazing sushi eel (anago or unagi). ōgi-gata – see nigiri-zushi. Nō – classical Japanese musical drama, charac- o-hitsu – traditional Japanese wooden con- terized by the use of stereotypical masks, a tainer for storing and serving warm, cooked slow tempo, and unadorned elegance. rice. nojime – fish which must be ripened before ohyō – Pacific halibut Hippoglossus ( stenole- eating. The fish has gone through rigor mor- pis). tis and has been frozen for a period of time, omakase – sushi meal where the chef is given as a result of which its taste and texture have discretion to select the dishes and decide on changed due to natural decomposition. Noji- the order in which they are served. mi for sushi-dane must be eaten immediate- ōmori – pieces of food arranged in a pile, e.g., ly after it has been thawed. Examples include sushi. In the temples, offerings to the gods of red fish such as tuna or salmon. food are presented in this manner. nori – fronds from the red alga Porphyra which onigiri – a ball of sushi rice, possibly with some have been chopped, pressed, dried, and filling, wrapped in nori. 302 The technical details onji – a Japanese word corresponding to a shabu-shabu – onomatopoetic expression for sound; analogous to a syllable. a dish in which thin pieces of meat and veg- oroshi-gane – grater. etables are quickly cooked in a pot with soup oshibako – wooden mold for making pressed stock (dashi). sushi, oshi-zushi. shamoji – wooden spatula (also called ki- oshibori – damp cloth for wiping the face and jakushi). hands. shari – sushi bar slang for sushi rice. oshinko – see shinko. shiba-zuke – eggplant pickled in brine (tsuke- oshi-zushi – pressed sushi, typically made with mono), usually with red shiso. mackerel (saba); characteristic of the Osaka shiitake – the mushroom Lentinus edodes. region (Kansai). shimafuri – blanching, e.g., of fish skin. shinko (oshinko) – vegetables pickled in brine, raku – ‘unadulterated enjoyment’, traditional often ones which are lightly pickled and not Japanese method of making rustic ceram- fully preserved. Oshinko literally means ‘new ics containing a large proportion of sand or fragrance’. crushed fired clay; after firing they are cooled Shinto – Japanese religion based on nature quickly in cold air, paper, or sawdust. worship. ryōri – something related to cooking or food. shio – salt. shio-zuke – pickling in brine (nazuke). saba – mackerel. shirako – fish sperm sac. sabi – aesthetic expression for the wistful shiromi – white things (tane) placed on sushi, beauty found in old, worn, and dilapidated e.g., fish with white muscle meat. things. shiro-miso – white miso. sakazuki – small bowls for drinking sake. shiru – soup. sake – salmon. shiso – leaf mint (Perilla frutecens) found in sake – rice wine. red (aka-jiso), green (ao-jiso), and green-red sakura niku – ‘cherry coloured meat’, horse (aoaka-jiso) varieties. meat, also called uma. shitazawari – tonguefeel. sanmai oroshi – three-part filleting of fish into shōchū – distilled rice brandy with 36-45% al- two fillets and the skeleton; used for small cohol content. rounded fish such as salmon, mackerel, and shōga – ginger (Zingiber officinale). herring. shōjin ryōri – classical vegetarian temple food sasa-giri (sasaberi) – ‘lace border’, elaborately prepared in accordance with Buddhist direc- cut out bamboo leaves used to decorate a tives; introduced in Japanese temples in the dish, e.g., an arrangement of sushi. 6th Century and became more widespread sashimi – sliced raw fish or shellfish. in the 13th Century after Zen gained promi- sencha – good quality Japanese green tea. nence; consists of food prepared from soy- sengiri – sliced into thin strips, julienned. beans (tofu, miso, shōyu), mushrooms, sea- weed, and fu. Glossary of Japanese words 303 shōyu – soy sauce. tamago-yaki – rolled omelette made from eggs su – rice vinegar containing about ca. 4% acetic (tamago); prepared in a special rectangular acid. pan (tamago-yaki-nabe). sudare – bamboo mat, for example, a makisu tamari – soy sauce made without wheat. for rolling maki-zushi. tane (neta) – expression for the individual piec- sugata-zushi – whole fish stuffed with sushi es of topping, e.g., of fish or shellfish, placed rice, cut up, and served in the original form. on nigiri-zushi. Tane becomes dane when it suigimori – see moritsuke. follows another word. suihanki – automatic rice cooker, usually elec- tataki – method of preparing a fish fillet, sear- tric. ing it very lightly on all sides and then slic- suimono – clear soup made from the firstdashi ing it like sashimi. Tataki actually means to (ichiban dashi). hit or break into pieces and alludes to the sujime – curing technique involving salt and crushed ginger which is often placed on the vinegar; used, for example, on oily fish like grilled fish. mackerel where it mellows the flavour and tatami – floor mat made of woven rice straw. firms the texture. tawara-gata – see nigiri-zushi. sushi-dane – see tane. tazuna-zushi – multi-coloured (usually red, sushi-meshi – rice made ready for sushi. green, and white) inside-out maki roll, where sushinoko (sushi-ko) – powder additive for su- fish and vegetables (either cucumber or avo- shi rice consisting of dehydrated rice vinegar cado) create a special rainbow effect on the with salt and sugar. outside. sushiya – word used for sushi bar, or sushi res- tekka-maki – maki-zushi with tuna. Tekka taurant, or sushi chef. means red-hot iron and refers to the red suzuki – Japanese sea bass. colour of the tuna. temaki-zushi – hand rolled sushi, for example, tai (ma-dai)– red seabream. in a cone. takara-bune – little wooden boat used for pre- temari-zushi – small hand shaped balls of su- sentation of sushi and sashimi. The origi- shi rice with fish or shiso leaves; pressed to- nal meaning is related to the treasure ships gether using transparent kitchen wrap. which transported valuable cargo from Chi- tempura (tenpura) – deep-fried fish, shellfish, na to Japan. or vegetables. tako – octopus (Octopus vulgaris). tobiko (tobiuonoko) – flying fishtobiuo ( ) roe. tako-biki – ‘octopus cutter’, sashimi knife with tofu – coagulated, protein-rich solid made from a blunt tip used in Tokyo and eastern Japan. soy milk. takuan-zuke – pickled, white radish (daikon), a toishi – whetting stone. form of nuka-zuke. toku – see nuka-doko. tamago – egg, usually a chicken egg, but can toro – ‘to melt’, the sought-after fatty meat from also be a quail egg. the tuna belly. 304 The technical details tsukemono – different ways of pickling and pre- usuba-bōchō – heavy knife with a wide blade serving primarily vegetables, but also fruits. and even edge for peeling and cutting veg- Shio-zuke (nazuke) is light brine pickling of etables. cucumbers and eggplants, as well as Japa- nese apricots or plums (umeboshi). Su-zuke wabi – complex aesthetic expression used to is pickling in rice vinegar. Nuke-zuke is pick- describe a person, an object, or a living thing ling in a fermentation medium made from characterized by modesty, humility, alone- rice bran, for example, takuan-zuke made ness, wistfulness, simplicity, or stillness. with white radish (daikon). Miso-zuke uti- wakame – dark green edible kelp with ribbon- lizes miso mixed with sake as a fermentation like fronds and a mild umami taste. medium. Kōji-zuke uses kōji, which consists waribashi – disposable wood or bamboo chop- of rice bran to which the yeast, Aspergillus sticks. oryzae, is added as the medium. wasabi – Japanese horseradish (Wasabia Tsukiji – the fish market in Tokyo. japonica). uchiwa – fan made with a frame of split bam- yaki-nori (ajitsuke nori) – toasted nori sheets, boo reeds on which is glued paper or silk; flavoured with shōyu or sesame oil and of- used to cool sushi rice. ten used as a topping (furikake) sprinkled on uma – raw horse meat (also sakura niku, ‘cher- rice and in salads. ry red meat’). Sashimi made with uma is also yanagiba-bōchō – the classical Japanese sashi- called basashi. mi and sushi knife with a narrow blade and umami – ‘the fifth taste’ or ‘meat taste’, espe- an almost even edge. cially brought out by monosodium glutamate yōkan – Japanese confectionery or candy based (‘the third spice’) and associated with the on red azuki bean paste made into a solid taste of such foods as konbu, shiitake, and jelly using sugar and thickened with agar katsuobushi. (kanten); called yōkan cha when green tea is ume – Japanese apricot that resembles a plum. added to it. umeboshi – dried and brine-pickled Japanese yonezu – vinegar made exclusively with rice. apricots (ume) or plums. yosemori – see moritsuke. unagi – freshwater eel that lives in the rivers yukari furikake – type of furikake consisting of and lakes in Japan. roasted, crushed red shiso mixed with salt. unagiba-bōchō – sushi and sashimi knife for yukinoshita – enokitake mushrooms (Flam- cutting trimmed fish and shell fish. mulina velutipes). uni – sea urchin. uramaki – inside out maki-roll that has the zaru – bamboo sieve. sheet of nori on the inside and the rice on Zen – Japanese-Chinese meditative school of the outside. Buddhism with philosophical overtones. Scientific terminology 305

Scientific terminology

AA – see arachidonic acid. of only seven nanometers but a length of up acetic acid – (vinegar) organic acid formed by to several micrometers. Crosslinkages among bacterial and fungal fermentation of sugars. the actin filaments form a network which acid – large class of chemical compounds that helps to give the cell shape. In the muscles, release hydrogen ions when dissolved in wa- long actin filaments act somewhat like tracks ter. Acids generally have a sour taste and can along which the molecular motor myosin can be neutralized by bases. Examples are acetic slide during muscle contraction. acid, citric acid, lactic acid, fatty acids, and adenosine triphosphate – (ATP) chemical com- amino acids. pound (nucleotide) that is a source of energy; acidity – see pH. together with ADP (adenosine diphosphate) actin – protein molecules and thin filaments it is involved in virtually all biochemical pro- made of it that create structure inside the cell, cesses that require energy. on the surface of the cell and, for example, in agar – a mixture of polysaccharides extract- muscles. Individual actin molecules can po- ed from red seaweed; used as a thickening lymerize into long filaments with a thickness agent. 306 The technical details alcohol – generic term for a large group of Of the 20 natural amino acids, there are 9 chemical substances which contain an –OH essential ones that our bodies cannot them- group. ‘Ordinary alcohol’ is ethanol. Choles- selves produce and which we must get from terol is also an alcohol. food (valine, leucine, lysine, histidine, isoleu- aldehydes – together with ketones and esters, cine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, aldehydes make up the chemical compounds and tryptophan). known as the carbonyl compounds, which is amphiphile – a substance or molecule with to say that they contain the group –C=O. mixed feelings toward water. Typically used alkaloids – nitrogen containing basic group of to describe molecules, such as proteins and chemical compounds that include, among lipids, which consist of two parts, one of other substances, caffeine and nicotine; which attracts water and the other which re- many are poisonous. pels it. alpha-linolenic acid – polyunsaturated ome- amylopectin – polysaccharide consisting of a ga-3 fatty acid with 18 carbon atoms and branched network of glucose molecules; to- three double bonds, (18:3)(9,12,15) CH3–CH2– gether with amylose it is the most important CH=CH–CH2–CH=CH–CH2–CH=CH– ingredient in starch. (CH2)7–COOH. It is the starting point for amylose – polysaccharide consisting of long, the formation of superunsaturated omega-3 linear chains of glucose molecules; together fatty acids, e.g., DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) with amylopectin it is the most important and EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid). ingredient in starch. amines – substances which contain nitrogen, anisakis – herring worm (Anisakis simplex), for example, an amino group, –NH2, in the parasitic nematode sometimes found in primary amines. mackerel, herring, cod, and squid. amino acids – small molecules made up of be- anthocyanin – red pigment in plants such as tween 10 and 40 atoms, which in addition to red shiso. Because anthocyanins dissolve carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen always con- readily in water, they can easily be used as tain an amino group – NH2. Amino acids are a dye. The colour is very sensitive to acidity the fundamental building blocks of proteins. and contact with metal. Low pH conserves Examples include glycine, glutamic acid, ala- the red colour, but metal ions can cause the nine, proline, and arginine. Nature makes use colour to shift to blue or green. of 20 different, specific amino acids to con- antibiotics – substances that fight microrgan- struct proteins, which are chains of amino isms such as bacteria and fungi. Penicillin is acids bound together with so-called peptide an antibiotic. bonds. Short chains are called polypeptides antioxidant – substance that prevents oxida- and long ones, proteins. In food, amino acids tion of other substances, for example, un- are often found bound together in proteins satured fats which oxidize easily (become and also as free amino acids which can have rancid). Ascorbic acid (vitamin C), vitamin an affect on taste. An example is glutamic E, and green chlorophyll are important anti- acid which is the basis of the umami taste. oxidants in foodstuffs. Scientific terminology 307 arachidonic acid – (AA) superunsaturated prey live. Bromophenols have the smell we long-chain fatty acids with 20 carbon atoms associate with a fresh sea breeze. and four double bonds, (20:4)(5,8,11,14) CH3– CH=CH–CH2–CH=CH–CH2–CH=CH– caffeine – alkaloid, stimulant, found in coffee CH2–CH=CH–(CH2)7–COOH; belongs to and tea, as well as in other foods. the omega-6 family. calcite – see calcium carbonate. ascorbic acid – vitamin C. calcium carbonate – limestone, CaCO3. astaxanthin – orange-red pigment e.g., found calcium sulphate – gypsum, CaSO4. in fish and shellfish. Astaxanthin is carotea - canthaxanthin – industrially produced caro- noid and is chemically related to the pigment tenoid, sometimes added to fish fodder so what gives carrots their characteristic yel- that the fish muscles turn red. Substitute for low-orange colour. In intact shells of crusta- natural astaxanthin on fish farms. ceans, the astaxanthin is bound in a protein capsaicin – organic substance responsible for complex (crustacyanin), in which form it is the strong taste of chili peppers. not red, but blueish green or reddish brown. carbohydrates – saccharides or sugars, a large astringency – a harsh, biting physical sensation group of chemical compounds which pri- in the mouth, which is not a true taste sen- marily consist of oxygen, hydrogen, and sation; well known from black tea that has carbon. The simple saccharides, monosac- steeped too long or from red wine that con- charides and disaccharides, are sweet and tains large quantities of tannic acid (tannins, include the ordinary sugars, such as glucose, phenols). Astringency is experienced because fructose, and galactose, as well as sucrose, the tannins bind with the proteins in the sa- lactose, and maltose. Starch, cellulose, and liva, causing a dry, chafing feeling, which can glycogen are polysaccharides. Carbohydrates be perceived as either pleasant or unpleasant are formed in plants and algae by photosyn- depending on context. thesis in which carbon dioxide and water atom – the fundamental, smallest particle of an combine. Carbohydrates make up the fuel element, for example, hydrogen (H), oxygen for the metabolism of all animals. (O), nitrogen (N), carbon (C), and sulphur carotenoid – group of red-orange pigments (S). Molecules are made up of atoms. held to- in plants and animals, e.g., astaxanthin in gether by chemical bonds. shellfish and carotene in carrots. ATP – see adenosine triphosphate. casein – milk protein; when milk is acidified, the casein undergoes a coagulation process bittern – see nigari. to form cheese curds. bivalves – molluscs having a shell consisting of cell – the smallest living entity of an organism; two hinged valves, e.g., oysters and clams. protected from its surroundings by a cell bromophenols – bromine containing phenol membrane, which is a part of the cell wall. compounds, stored in, for example, saltwa- Some organisms are unicellular, e.g., bacte- ter fish and the algae on which fish or their ria and yeast. Others are multicellular with a 308 The technical details

few hundred cells to billions of them. A hu- colloidal particles – particles which are so man has about 100,000 billion cells. small that they can remain in suspension in cellulose – polysaccharide built up of linear a liquid, e.g., fat particles in homogenized chains of glucose but, in contrast to starch, milk or clay particles in a glacial lake. the glucose chains are bound together close- convection – circulatory transport motion in ly in such a way that cellulose is not water a liquid or gas caused by, for example, tem- soluble, nor can our stomachs digest it. perature differences. cephalopods – molluscs with a reduced outer crosslinking – formation of chemical bonds or inner shell, or no shell at all, for example, across and between long-chained polymers, octopuses and squid; said to be free swim- for example, proteins. Crosslinking of fibres ming because they use their arms to move. and polymers is a way to make soft materials cholesterol – fat found in large quantities in all more robust and tough. Industrially, cross- animal cell membranes; basis for the forma- linking is used in such processes as vulca- tion of sex hormones, vitamin D, and bile nization which converts the polymer poly- salts. The distribution and transportation of isoprene to rubber. This is what imparts cholesterol in the body is mediated by cer- strength and good elastic properties to rub- tain lipoproteins. If there is an imbalance ber. between this transportation system and the crustacyanin – blue-green or red-brown pro- liver’s capacity to create and break down tein complex found, for example, in the cholesterol, the danger of atherosclerosis in- shells of crustaceans where it is bound to the creases. Cephalopods and crustaceans con- orange-red substance astaxanthin. When it tain a fair amount of cholesterol, especially is broken down by heating or digestive pro- cuttlefish. Great quantities of cholesterol are cesses, crustacyanin denatures and the red also found in fish roe. colour of astaxanthin becomes pronounced. citric acid – organic acid which imparts the characteristic sour taste to citrus fruit. decapods – crustaceans with ten legs, for ex- coagulation – process by which something ample, shrimp and lobsters. clots together (coagulates), e.g., blood pro- denaturing – word often used to describe the teins which form a blood clot or milk pro- process which the proteins undergo when teins (casein) which form cheese curds. they are heated or affected by salt or acid collagen – the most important protein in con- (e.g., when marinated or pickled). nective tissue, where it forms stiff fibres that deoxyribonucleic acid – (DNA) polynucleotide hold the muscle fibres together and bind consisting of a chain of nucleic acids together them to skin and joints. Collagen consists with sugars and phosphate groups; basis for of several protein molecules that are twisted the genetic information encoded in genetic together in threes in a triple spiral (helix) in material and the genome. In the genome, the same way as a rope. On being warmed, DNA forms a double helix in which two DNA this spiral is dissolved, loses its stiffness, and chains spiral around each other. becomes gelatine. Scientific terminology 309 dermis – the innermost layer of the skin, con- Mayonnaise and ice cream are examples of sisting of living cells complete with blood emulsions. Emulsification can be enhanced supply and nerve endings. Theepidermis lies with emulsifiers, substances that can bind oil on top of the dermis. and liquid together, e.g., amphiphiles such as DHA – see docosahexaenoic acid. lipids. Emulsifiers lower the surface tension dimethyl sulphide – sulphur compound between the oil and the liquid. (CH3SCH3) with a characteristic strong enzyme – protein that functions as a catalyst odour emitted by, for example, heated milk, for a chemical or biochemical reaction. cooked mussels, and rotten seaweed. EPA – see eicosapentaenoic acid. dioxin – common designation for a group of or- epidermis – outer layer of the skin that lies ganic compounds that contain chlorine, are closest to the surface on top of the dermis. soluble in fats, and which accumulate in the The layer consists of dead cells in a dense fatty tissue of animals. Garbage incineration, structure of proteins and fats and is respon- steel and pesticide manufacture, and forest sible for the skin’s exceptional properties as a fires are the principal sources of dioxin in protective barrier. the environment. It is potentially threaten- ester – chemical compound resulting from the ing to health even in minute quantities. reaction of an acid with an alcohol. Together DNA – see deoxyribonucleic acid. with ketones and aldehydes, esters constitute docosahexaenoic acid – (DHA) superunsatu- what is known as the carbonyl compounds rated, long chain fatty acid with 22 carbon (contain the –C=O group) and form the atoms and six double bonds; member of the most important taste substances, for exam- omega-3 family. ple, those formed in the course of fermenta- tion processes. echinoderms – phylum of marine invertebrates ethanol – ‘ordinary’ alcohol, CH3–CH2–OH. including, e.g., sea urchins, starfish, and sea ethylene – gas, CH2=CH2, which acts as a natu- cucumbers. ral ripening agent for fruits. eicosanoids – hormones and signaling mole- eukaryote – higher organism, either unicellu- cules formed from omega-3 or omega-6 fatty lar or multicellular, whose genetic material is acids that are important for regulation of enclosed in a nucleus. Fungi, plants, seaweed, such things as blood flow and the immune and animals are eukaryotes. Primitive uni- defences. cellular organisms which lack a nucleus are eicosapentaenoic acid – (EPA) superunsatu- called prokaryotes. All bacteria are prokary- rated, long chain fatty acid with 20 carbon otes. atoms and five double bonds; member of the omega-3 family. fat – common designation for an extensive class emulsion – mixture consisting of an oil-like of substances that are not soluble in water. substance, for example, a fat, dispersed in Fats can be solid, e.g., butter and wax, or liq- small droplets in another liquid in which it uid, e.g., olive oil and fish oil. The melting is only sparingly soluble, e.g., oil in vinegar. point of a fat has major significance for its 310 The technical details

taste and nutritional value. A typical fat con- in plants and fruits that help to impart a bit- sists of a long chain of carbon atoms, which ter and astringent taste, for example, that can be either saturated or unsaturated. An found in green tea and in citrus fruits. important type of naturally occurring fats are lipids, which are composed of fatty acids gastrophysics – qualitative reflections on, and bound to a variety of other substances, for quantitative examinations of, foods, their example, amino acids and saccharides. Lip- handling, conversion, and processing, focus- ids are amphiphilic molecules. ing on physical effects and explanations. fatty acid – a compound consisting of a long gastropods – molluscs with a single, usually chain of carbon atoms with a carboxylic coiled shell, e.g., snails. acid group. Adjoining atoms in the chain are gel – technical term for a network of molecules chemically joined by either a single or double that contain large quantities of water but bond. Those with the most double bonds are are also somewhat stiff like a solid; formed described as the most unsaturated. If only by gelation processes, for example, when egg single bonds are present the fatty acid is said whites are heated or gelatine is cooled. to be fully saturated. Monounsaturated fatty gelatine – the same protein as the one found acids have a single double bond, e.g., oleic in the form of collagen in connective tissue. acid from olive oil. Polyunsatured fatty acids In contrast to collagen, gelatine is soluble in have more than one double bond, e.g., two water and is formed when collagen is heated, double bonds in linoleic acid from soybeans dissolving the stiff fibres therein. On cool- or three double bonds in alpha-linolenic ing, the stiff fibre structure of collagen is not acid found in flax seed and seaweed. Super­ formed again; in its stead a gel containing unsaturated fatty acids have more than four water is produced, a process called gelation. double bonds, e.g., six double bonds in DHA gelation – see gelatine. (docosahexaenoic acid) derived from fish gene – a sequence of nucleotides of DNa that, oil. Essential fatty acids are fatty acids that among its other functions, contains the ge- the human body cannot itself produce and netic information of an organism (heredi- which, therefore, have to be obtained from tary material). food sources. There are two families of these, genome – the combined genetic information of both polyunsaturated fatty acids: linoleic a given organism, namely, all the genes. acid and alpha-linolenic acid. They are the gingerol – organic substance which imparts the progenitors of two important types of fatty sharp taste in ginger; in the same chemical acids, the omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. family as the strong taste substances piperin fermentation – process in which microorgan- and capsaicin in black pepper and chili. isms (or microbes) such as yeast or bacteria gliadin – a protein in gluten. convert sugars to alcohol, e.g., ethanol, or to glucose – sugar or monosaccharide, C6H12O6, acid, e.g., vinegar. that is the most important carbohydrate flavones – together with flavonols and flavenes in plants and animals. In plants glucose is constitute a particular group of phenols found formed by photosynthesis. Scientific terminology 311 glucosinolate – class of organic compounds energy. This substance has umami taste and that contain sulphur, nitrogen, and a sugar is 10 to 20 times more potent than MSG. group (glucose), e.g., sinigrin in black mus- tard, cabbage, horseradish, and wasabi. hemoglobin – reddish, iron containing protein When water is present, the glucosinolates that can bind oxygen and is the basis for the are converted, with the help of the enzyme blood’s ability to transport oxygen within myrosinase, to isothiocyanate which has an the body. unpleasant smell and a sharp, irritating taste. hydrocarbons – organic compounds that con- In this way, plants make use of glucosinolates tain carbon and hydrogen, for example, in as a natural means of defence. the form of a chain of carbon atoms in oils glutamic acid – amino acid found in such or fats. foods as fish, shellfish, and seaweed, often in hydrogen bonding – a particular form of polar, the form of a salt, monosodium glutamate, chemical bonding, based on the special abil- which is the basis for the umami taste. ity of the hydrogen atom to donate an elec- gluten – certain proteins (especially gliadin and tron to another suitable atom, such as oxy- glutenin), found in wheat, which enhance the gen. Hydrogen bonds are extensive in water baking properties of dough made with wheat and contribute to its singular properties with flour. Kneading stretches the proteins and regard to melting and boiling point, specific forms an elastic, water-binding network that heat, etc. Each water molecule can form up traps the bubbles of carbon dioxide which to four hydrogen bonds with water or other are formed when the dough rises. types of molecules that also have the capac- glutenin – a protein in gluten. ity to form hydrogen bonds. Hydrogen bonds glycine – the smallest and simplest amino acid, are important for the formation of stable CH2(NH2)–COOH. structures in intact proteins and enzymes. glycogen – branched polysaccharide molecule hydrophilic – loves water; typically character- consisting of glucose units. Glycogen acts izes a molecule that is soluble in water but as an energy storage depot in the liver and not in oil. white musculature of fish and shellfish. hydrophobic – avoids water; typically charac- GMP – see guanosine monophosphate. terizes a molecule that is not water soluble, guanine – basic component in the formation but dissolves easily in oil. of nucleic acid. Guanine crystals are found in the skin of some fish which live near the IMP – see inosine monophosphate. surface of the sea, e.g., herring and mackerel. inosine monophosphate – (IMP) nucleotide These crystals impart a silvery-white sheen formed together with guanosine mono- to the skin of these fish. phosphate (GMP) when the energy storing guanosine monophosphate – (GMP) nucleotide biomolecule ATP is broken down by the cells formed together with inosine monophosphate to produce energy; has umami taste and is 10 (IMP) when the energy storing biomolecule to 20 times more potent than MSG. ATP is broken down by the cells to produce ion – electrically charged atom or molecule. 312 The technical details isothiocyanates – chemical compounds with limonene – chemical substance belonging to the S=C=N–group. These substances are the group of terpenes known from the aro- malodourous and are formed, for example, ma of citrus rinds, dill, pepper, and caraway when mustard seeds, cabbage, horseradish, seed; is of the same family as perillic acid or wasabi are crushed. All of these contain found in shiso. glucosinolates, such as sinigrin, which, after linoleic acid – polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty the cells are destroyed by the mechanical ac- acid with 18 carbon atoms and two double tion of grating or chopping, are converted to bonds, (18:2)(9,12) CH3–(CH2)4–CH=CH– isothiocyanates in the presence of water and CH2–CH=CH–(CH2)7–COOH; basis for the with the assistance of thioglucosidase en- formation of superunsaturated fatty acids of zymes. The release of isothiocyanates forms the omega-6 family, e.g., arachidonic acid. a part of the plants’ own chemical defence linolenic acid – see alpha-linolenic acid. system. lipid – amphiphilic fat that consists of a water soluble part and an oil soluble part. ketones – together with aldehydes and esters lipid membrane – double layer of lipid mol- make up the chemical compounds called ecules with water on both sides of it. carbonyl compounds, which is to say that lipoprotein – complex of fats (lipids) and pro- they contain the group –C=O. Many taste teins. Lipoproteins are important for the substances which are formed during fermen- transport of fats, e.g., cholesterol, in the body tation are ketones. via the bloodstream. liposome – a closed shell consisting of a double lactic acid – simple organic acid, CH3– layer of lipids with water on both sides. CH(OH)–COOH which is produced, e.g., by lipoxygenase – enzyme. In fish, for example, it lactic acid bacteria. It is also formed in the can oxidate unsaturated fats, among them muscles when glycogen is consumed in the linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, gener- presence of oxygen. ating a volatile aromatic substance which is lanosterol – a primitive sterol that is the chem- also associated with the odour of plants. ical precursor of cholesterol. lenthionine – a cyclical organic molecule that macromolecule – large molecule, e.g., a protein contains carbon and sulphur. The special or DNA. aroma of shiitake mushrooms (Lentinus macromolecular assembly – assembly of large edodes) is due to the enzymatic formation of molecules, e.g., lipids organized in a mem- lenthionine. Lenthionine possibly suppresses brane. the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines magnesium chloride – MgCl2; among other in the digestive system. uses it serves as a coagulant in the produc- lentinan – a polysaccharide found in shiitake tion of tofu from soy milk. mushrooms; helps to boost the immune sys- Maillard reactions – class of chemical reac- tem and may be effective as an anti-cancer tions which are typically associated with agent. non-enzymatic browning occurring, for ex- Scientific terminology 313

ample, during frying, grilling, or baking. In Hg+. Methylmercury appears as an environ- the course of these reactions, carbohydrates mental toxin, for example, in fish. bind with amino acids from proteins and, af- mitochondria – organelles in cells which pro- ter a series of intermediate steps, form a se- duce energy in the form of ATP. ries of poorly characterized brown pigments molecule – assembly of two or more atoms and aromatic substances collectively known which are held together by chemical bonds, as melanoids. These substances give rise to e.g., water (H2O), which consists of two hy- a broad spectrum of taste and smell sensa- drogen atoms (hydrogen, H) and one oxygen tions ranging from the flower- and plant-like atom (oxygen, O). to meat- and earth-like. molecular gastronomy – study of the proper- mannitol – sugar alcohol found, e.g., in mush- ties, at the molecular level, of food ingredi- rooms and sea­weed to which it imparts its ents, as well as their interdependent relation- characteristic sweet taste; ensures that the ships and the changes they undergo during seaweed maintains the correct osmotic bal- preparation and consumption. ance in salt water. As it cannot be converted molecular motor – macromolecule, typically in the body, it has few calories. a protein, which carries out a mechanical melanins – see melanoids. function on a molecular level. For example, melanoids – and melanins are brown, aromat- myosin in muscle connective tissue is a mo- ic pigments that formed as compounds of lecular motor that can slide over actin mol- carbohydrates and amino acids, for example, ecules and in this way cause the muscle to in the course of Maillard reactions (brown- contract. Other molecular motors execute a ing). Melanoids are also formed in the fer- rotating motion when ATP is formed or help mentation of soybeans to produce soy sauce to pull the two parts of the cell nucleus apart (shōyu). Melanin is the black-brown pigment during cell division. It is a molecular motor, in black roe (caviar) from sturgeon. kinesin, which makes the flagella on a micro- membrane – the boundary between a cell and organism rotate and, in this way, propel the its surroundings (cell wall). This term is used organism forward. particularly to refer to the double layer of lip- molluscs – a phylum of invertebrate animals. ids (fats) which form the middle part of the Most have an exterior skeleton, like mussels, cell wall. oysters, and snails, or are cephalopods with metabolic syndrome – composite of life style a reduced outer shell, an internal shell, or no dependent, non-communicable diseases shell at all (e.g., octopuses and cuttlefish). which are attributed to diet, especially car- monosodium glutamate – (MSG) sodium salt diovascular disorders, obesity, type 2 diabe- of the amino acid glutamic acid, also known tes, high blood pressure, and possibly psy- as ‘the third spice’ because it is the one most chiatric disorders. widely used after salt and pepper; imparts methylmercury – abbreviation for monometh- the umami taste. ylmercury, most often found as the ion CH3– MSG – see monosodium glutamate. mustard oil – see isothiocyanates. 314 The technical details mycelium – branched filament which makes octenol – short-chain alcohol derived from the up the root mat of a mushroom. enzymatic breakdown of the superunsatu- myocommata – see myotomes. rated fatty acid, linoleic acid. The aroma myoglobin – red protein containing iron found of freshly harvested mushrooms is due to in muscles where it transports oxygen from octenol, which is formed when the cells of the blood to the muscle fibres. It is myoglobin the mushroom are damaged, especially its which gives some animal and fish muscles lamellae (the gills under the cap). For this their red colour. On heating, the myoglobin reason mushrooms that are not yet fully de- denatures and takes on a brownish colour. veloped have a blander taste than those with myosepta – see myotomes. mature lamellae. In addition, brown mush- myosin – protein that functions as a molecular rooms are tastier than white ones. motor in muscle connective tissue where it oil – chemical compound containing carbon; slides along the actin fibres. not soluble in water; examples include, hy- myotomes – thin layers of muscle fibre in fish. drocarbons, fatty acids and lipids. The layers are typically from a few milli- oleic acid – monounsaturated fatty acid with metres to one centimetre thick. These layer 18 carbon atoms; main component of olive divisions are recognizable in the flakes into oil. which a cooked fish separates. Myotomes are omega-3 fats – polyunsaturated fats derived held together by some fragile layers of con- from alpha-linolenic acid, e.g., DHA (docosa- nective tissue, namely, myosepta along the hexaenoic acid) and EPA (eicosapentaenoic fibre bundles and myocommata across the acid). fibre bundles. Myocommata extend from the omega-6 fats – polyunsaturated fats derived innermost layer of skin (dermis) of the fish to from linoleic acid, e.g., AA (arachidonic the bone and are arranged in a zigzag forma- acid). tion. osmosis – process of diffusion of particles and myrosinase – enzyme of the thioglucosidase molecules across a barrier, for example, a cell type which converts glucosinolates to iso- membrane, which is permeable to water but thiocyanates. impermeable to the other larger molecules, such as salt, amino acids, or sugar. The re- nucleic acid – chemical designation for a mac- sulting imbalance is equilibrated when some romolecule made up of nucleotides bonded of the water passes across to the side contain- together. Nucleic acids are the building ing the large molecules. This rate of diffusion blocks of DNA, RNA, and genomes. increases with the degree of hydrophilicity of nucleotide – substance composed of a nitrog- these molecules. The osmotic effect is coun- enous nucleobase (adenine, guanine, cyto- terbalanced by a pressure, called the osmotic sine, uracil, or thymine), a sugar, and one or pressure, across the entire membrane. Os- more phosphate groups. The umami taste mosis is central to the ability of plants to substances GMP and IMP are nucleotides. draw water from the ground, into their root system, and up through their trunks and Scientific terminology 315

branches. The opposite process, known as re- hibits the growth of blood vessels in the tu- verse osmosis, in which pure water is drawn mor. Ocean fish accumulate bromophenols, out of a solution, is used for purifying water. the smell of which is associated with that osmotic pressure – see osmosis. of a fresh ocean breeze. Bromophenols are oxidation – removing one or more electrons formed, for example, by marine algae which from an atom, ion, or molecule. For example, are consumed by fish or by their prey.Oxida - the double bonds of unsaturated fats can be tion of phenol compounds in fruits and veg- oxidized resulting in rancidity. etables causes a brown discolouration when they are sliced, mashed, or affected mechan- PCBs – polychlorinated biphenyls are a class ically by other means. Smoking of fish can of fat soluble organic compounds. PCBs had also bring out phenol compounds, for exam- many industrial applications, e.g., as hydrau- ple, in the preparation of katsuobushi. lic fluids, lubricants, and cutting oils. Be- phospholipid – lipid with a phosphate group cause PCBs naturally break down very slow- polar head; an important component of cell ly, they are biohazards that accumulate in membranes and fish muscle. the food chain and are found in the environ- piperin – organic substance which imparts a ment everywhere on the planet even though strong taste to black pepper. they have been banned since the 1970’s. They polyamide – polymeric chain of amino acids, cause certain skin diseases and possibly can- as in a protein. cer. polymer – large molecule, either in the form perilla acid – substance classified as aterpene , of a chain or branched, composed of many found in such plants as red shiso. Other relat- identical or different units (monomers). An ed substances are perilla alcohol and perilla example is a protein, a naturally occurring aldehyde, which is the active anti-microbial form of the group known as polyamides. ingredient in red shiso. Polymers can be made by a polymerization pH – quantitative measure for relative acidity. process in which the individual monomers A pH reading of 7 is neutral and readings of are bound together in a chemical reaction. below and above 7 correspond, respectively, polynucleotide – chain of nucleotides, e.g., in to acidic and basic (alkaline) environments. DNA. phenols – large group of acidic chemical sub- polyphenol – chemical compound containing stances derived from phenol (hydrobenzene). several phenol groups. Found in plants, for example, in green tea to polyphenol oxidases – enzymes found in green which it imparts its characteristic slightly tea leaves where they produce a series of aro- bitter taste with hints of grass, hay, flowers, ma substances and pigments based on the and seaweed. The principal type of poly­ tea leaves’ complex chemical phenol com- phenol (epigallocatechin-gallate) in green tea pounds. can counteract cancer, especially stomach polysaccharide –sugar, see carbohydrates; con- and throat cancers. It is thought that the rel- sists of several saccharide units, for example, evant mechanism is that the polyphenol in- the disaccharide lactose, which is the sweet 316 The technical details

substance in milk, or the polysaccharide gly- sinigrin – chemical substance that belongs to cogen, which is the energy storage depot in the glucosinolate group, found in mustard, the liver and the white muscles of fish. cabbage, horseradish, and wasabi, among prokaryote – unicellular organism which lacks others. a nucleus. All bacteria are prokaryotes. starch – mixture of the polysaccharides amy- protein – polyamide, which is to say a long lose and amylopectin. chain of amino acids bound together by pep- sterol – cyclic carbon compound that consists tide bonds. Myoglobin, an important protein of a hydrophobic core of four, fused rings. in the muscles, is the source of the red colour The so-called higher sterols are important of meat. Receptors, which capture signals in for all advanced forms of life (cholesterol in the cells and identify things such as taste animals, ergosterol in fungi and yeast, fucus- and smell, are also proteins. Enzymes are a terol in seaweed, and phytosterol in plants). particular class of proteins whose function sugar – see carbohydrate. it is to ensure that chemical reactions take surface tension – expression for a force, based place under controlled circumstances. Pro- on attraction between molecules, that tries teins lose their functional ability (denature) to diminish a surface to the smallest possible and their physical properties change when area. It is this force that makes it possible to they are heated or exposed to salt or acid (as fill a glass with water to just above the rim. in cooking, salting, or marinating). In general, interfacial tension is an expres- protozoa – unicellular organisms with a nucle- sion for a similar force that tries to minimize us, e.g., amoebae and flagellates. the area of contact between joining surfaces, pyrazine – nitrogen containing the cyclic com- a typical case being that of oil and water. pound C4H4N2. This force can be lessened and miscibility increased by adding a substance, which is receptor – protein molecule that has a special active on the boundary surface, for example, ability to bind with a particular substance, soap or another amphiphilic substance such for example, a smell or taste molecule. Re- as a lipid or a suitable protein. ceptors are found in all membranes, espe- cially those of nerve cells. tannin – (tannic acid) common designation for ribonucleic acid – (RNA) polynucleotide which, phenols, which are bitter taste substances, like DNA, is made up of four nucleo­bases, but found in red wine, black tea, and smoked with uracil instead of thiamine and also with products, among others. different sugar groups. taurine – amino acid, major constituent of bile rigor mortis – temporary chemical change in where it functions as an emulsifier to bind the muscles occurring after death causing fats and mediate the uptake of lipids, e.g., them to become stiff. cholesterol; found in large amounts in sea­ RNA – see ribonucleic acid. food such as octopuses, squids, clams, and oysters. Strictly speaking, taurine is not a real saccharide – sugar, see carbohydrates. amino acid since it lacks a carboxyl group. Scientific terminology 317 terpenes – class of organic substances which ter. Fish from salty waters therefore con- are the primary constituents of olfactory tain more trimethylamine than those substances in many plant oils, e.g., perilla from sweet water. acid and derivates thereof in red shiso. A re- turbulence – chaotic movements in gases lated terpene is limonene, found in dill, pep- or liquids, for example, in connection per, and caraway seeds. with boiling of water. tetrodotoxin – neurotoxin (nerve poison) named after the pufferfish, fugu (Tetraodon- vacuole – empty space in a cell where it tiformes). The poison works by blocking the stores nutrients or waste products. sodium channels in the membranes of the vinegar – see acetic acid. nerve cells. Less than one milligram, which is viscosity – resistance to flow in a liquid; to say the quantity that can be placed on the alternatively, the capacity of a liquid to tip of a needle, is sufficient to kill an adult. resist when another substance is moving theanine – amino acid commonly found in through it. green tea leaves, among other sources. vitamin – group of different essential or- thiamine – vitamin B1. ganic substances that the body itself can thiazole – cyclic compound, C3H 3NS, contain- produce only in limited quantities and ing nitrogen and sulphur. which, therefore, must be ingested. Ex- thioglucosidase – enzyme that converts glu- amples are vitamins A, B, C, D, E, and cosinolates to isothiocyanates. K. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vita- toxin – poison, typically derived from a plant, min E are also important antioxidants fungus, or animal. in foods. triglyceride – fat with three fatty acid groups. trimethylamine – foul smelling organic sub- water – essential chemical compound, stance (tertiary amine) produced, for ex- H2O, consisting of molecules made up of ample, by bacterial decomposition of two hydrogen (H) atoms and one oxygen trimethylaminoxide in dead fish. Trimeth- (O) atom. ylaminoxide, which is odourless, is used by wine vinegar – sharp tasting, acidic wine the cells of the fish to balance the osmotic produced by allowing the alcohol in pressure due to the saltiness of oceanic wa- wine to oxidize to form acetic acid. 318 The technical details

Bibliography On sushi and sushi related foods Andoh, E. Washoku. Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, 2005. Ashkenazi, M. & J. Jacob. The Essence of Japanese Cuisine. An Essay on Food and Culture. University of Pennsylvania Press, Hampden Station, Baltimore, 2000. Barber, K. Sushi. Taste and Technique. DK Publishing, London, 2002. Chu, C. The Search for Sushi. A Gastronomic Guide. Crossbridge Publ. Co., Man- hattan Beach, 2006. Corson, T. The Zen of Fish. HarperCollinsPublishers, New York, 2007. Dekura, H. The Fine Art of Japanese Cooking. Bay Books, Sydney, 1993. Dekura, H. Contemporary Japanese Cuisine. Weatherhill Inc., Trumbull, 2001. Dekura, H. Sushi Modern. Periplus Ed., Boston, 2002. Dekura, H., B. Treloar & R. Yoshii. The Complete Book of Sushi. Periplus Ed., Singapore, 2004. Detrick, M. Sushi. Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1981. Bibliography 319

Egan, A. Edamame. Rodale Inc., Emmaus, USA, 2003. Fujii, M. The Enlightened Kitchen. Kodanska International Ltd., Tokyo, 2005. Gusman, J. Vegetables From the Sea. William Morrow, HarperCollinsPublishers, New York, 2003. Gustafson, H. The Green Tea User’s Manual. Clarkson Potter Publ., New York, 2001. Hosking, R. A Dictionary of Japanese Food. Ingredients and Culture. Tuttle Publ., Boston, 1996. Hosking, R. At the Japanese Table. Oxford University Press, Oxford, 2000. Issenberg, S. The Sushi Economy. Globalization and the Making of a Modern Del- icacy. Gotham Books, New York, 2007. Kawasumi, K. The Encyclopedia of Sushi Rolls. Graph-ha, Ltd., Tokyo, 2001. Kazuko, E. EasySushi. Lothian Books, Port Melbourne, 2000. Kazuko, E. Japanese Food and Cooking. Lorenz Books, London, 2001. Kazuko, E. New Sushi. Jacquie Small, London, 2006. Klippensteen, K. Cool Tools. Kodanska International Ltd., Tokyo, 2006. Liley, V. Sushi. Whitecap, North Vancouver, 2005. Lowry, D. The Connoisseur’s Guide to Sushi. The Harvard Common Press, Cam- bridge, 2005. Masui, K. & C. Masui. Sushi Secrets. Hachette, London, 2004. Matsushisa, N. Nobo. The Cookbook. Kodanska International Ltd., Tokyo, 2001. Murata, Y. Kaiseki. The Exquisite Cuisine of Kyoto’s Kikunoi Restaurant. Kodan­ sha International Ltd., Tokyo, 2006. Ogawa, S. Easy Japanese Pickling in Five Minutes to One Day. Graph-Sha Ltd., Tokyo, 2003. Ōmae, K. & Y. Tachibana. The Book of Sushi.Kodansha International Ltd., Tokyo, 1988. Owen, S. The Rice Book. Frances Lincoln, London, 2003. Sanmi, S. The Way of Tea. A Japanese Tea Master’s Almanac. Tuttle Publishing, Boston, 2002. Shimbo, H. The Sushi Experience. Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 2006. Shimizu, K. Tsukemono. Japanese Pickled Vegetables. Shufunotomo Co. Ltd., Tokyo, 1993. Strada, J. & M. T. Moreno. Sushi for Dummies. Wiley Publishing Inc., Indianapo- lis, 2004. Sugimoto, T. & M. Iwatate. Shunju. New Japanese Cuisine. Periplus Ed., Singa- pore, 2002. Sushi Made Easy. Sterling Publ. Co., New York, 2001. 320 The technical details

Tanaka, S. & S. Sanaka. The Tea Ceremony. Kodansha International Ltd., Tokyo, 2000. Tohyama, H. Quick & Easy. Sushi Cook Book. JP Trading, Inc., Brisbane, 1983. Tokunaga, M. New Tastes in Green Tea. Kodansha International Ltd., Tokyo, 2004. Tsuchiya, Y. & M. Yamamoto. The Fine Art of Japanese Food Arrangement. Ko- dansha International Ltd., Tokyo, 1985. Wakuda, T. Tetsuya. HarperCollinsPublishers, Sydney, 2000. Yamamoto, K. & R. W. Hicks. Step-by-step Sushi. Magna Books, Leicester, 1992. Yoshino, M. Sushi. The Delicate Flavor of Japan.Gakken, Tokyo, 1986.

On the science of food and food preparation Barham, P. The Science of Cooking. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, 2001. Belitz, H.-D., W. Grosch & P. Schieberle. Food Chemistry. 3rd revised edition. Springer-Verlag, Heidelberg, 2004. Bloomfield, L. A.How Things Work. The Physics of Everyday Life.John Wiley, New York, 1997. Coultate, T. P. Food. The Chemistry of its Components. Royal Society of Chemis- try, Cambridge, 2002. Hillman, H. The New Kitchen Science. Houghton Mifflin, New York, 2003. McGee, H. On Food and Cooking. The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. Scribner, New York, 2004. Motokawa, T. Sushi science and hamburger science. Perspectives in Biology and Medicine 32, 489-504, 1989. O’Hare, M. (ed.) The Last Word. New Scientist, Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 1998. Snyder, C. H. The Extraordinary Chemistry of Ordinary Things. 3. Ed., John Wi- ley, New York, 1998. This, H. Molecular Gastronomy. Exploring the Science of Flavor. Columbia Univ. Press, New York, 2006. Wolke, R. L. What Einstein Told His Cook. Kitchen Science Explained 1 & 2. W. W. Norton & Co, New York, 2002 & 2005.

On fats, nutrition, and wellness Crawford, D. & D. Marsh. The Driving Force. Harper & Row, New York, 1989. Cunnane, S. C. Survival of the Fattest. World Scientific, Singapore, 2005. Ewin, J. Fine Wines and Fish Oil: The Life of Hugh Macdonald Sinclair. Oxford University Press, Oxford, 2002. Horrobin, D. The Madness of Adam and Eve. Bantam Press, London, 2001. Bibliography 321

Mouritsen, O. G. Life – As a Matter of Fat. The Emerging Science of Lipidomics. Springer-Verlag, Heidelberg, 2005. Pond, C. The Fats of Life. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 1998. Schwarcz, J. Let Them Eat Flax. ECW Press, Toronto, 2005. Taubes, G. The soft science of dietary fats. Science 292, 2536-2545, 2001. Wood, P. A. How Fat Works. Harvard University Press, Cambridge, 2006.

On Japanese culture, especially in relation to food Bestor, T. C. Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World. University of California Press, Los Angeles, 2004. Bramble, P. S. Culture Shock! Japan. A Guide to Customs and Etiquette. Times Books Int., Singapore, 2004. Dower, J. The Elements of Japanese Design. A Handbook of Family Crests, Her- aldy, and Symbolism (with drawings by Kiyoshi Kawamoto). Weatherhill, New York, 1998. Ekuan, K. The Aesthetics of the Japanese Lunchbox.MIT Press, Cambridge, 1998. Juniper, A. Wabi Sabi. The Japanese Art of Impermanence. Tuttle Publ., Boston, 2003. Kerr, A. Lost Japan. Lonely Planet Publ., London, 1996. Nihongo, K. & K. Shahen. Unfolding Japanese Traditions. Apricot, Tokyo, 1996. Reichhold, J. Haiku Techniques. Frogpond J. Haiku Soc. Amer., Autumn 2000. Riccardi, V. A. Untangling My Chopsticks. A Culinary Sojourn in Kyoto. Broadway Books, New York, 2003. 322

Illustration credits

• Thank you to Sticks ‘n’ Sushi (Copenhagen) for making available the photographs on pp. 17, 43, 149, 164, 166, 195, 203, 212, 217, 221, 231, and 233. Sticks ‘n’ Sushi owns the copyright to these images. • Chef Endo and Chef Watanabe gave permission to include the photographs from Kibune Sushi (Vancouver, Canada) on pp. 6 and 7. • Takeo in Gothersgade (Copenhagen) has drawn the sushi calligraphy on p. 15. • Michael Morrissey photographed and made available the pictures of frozen tuna on pp. 77 and 204. • Thank you to bar’sushi (Odense) for making available the photographs on pp. 22, 162, 170, and 171. bar’sushi owns the copyright to these images. • The painting on p. 59 was made by Gaute Haugland. • Musholm Lax made available the photograph of the fish farm in the Great Belt (Storebælt), Denmark on p. 78. • Ryuusei Matsuo supplied the image on p. 91 from the Drew-Baker Festival. • The old wooden fermentation room on p. 96 is at the Kikkoman Corporation. • Malcolm Mackley gave permission to reproduce the micrograph of starch gran- ules on p. 99. • Jacob Termansen took the pictures on pp. 157 and 160. • The information campaign ‘To gange om ugen’ (Two Times a Week) by Food Marketing ApS gave permission to reproduce the photographs of herring, sea bass, pike-perch, and pollock on pp. 210, 211, and 213. • Paavo Kinnunen took the picture of siika on p. 213. • Hans Hillevaert gave permission to reproduce the photograph of the Loligo squid on p. 218. • ND Shii-take gave permission to reproduce the photograph of the shiitake mushrooms on p. 238. • PrimaFrø gave permission to reproduce the images of purslane on p. 246. • The patterns which introduce the chapters of the book are taken from classical Japanese stencils which were used for the dyeing of kimonos (BNN, Inc.). • The classical Japanese woodblock prints which appear at the beginning of each section and several places throughout the book are by Shigemasa Kitao(1739-1820), Utagawa (Ando) Hiroshige (1797-1858), and Katsushika Hokusai (1760-1849). • All the water colours were painted by Tove Nyberg.

Where no other credits are given, the photographs were taken by the author or by Jonas Drotner Mouritsen, who retain their copyright. Index 323

Index A astaxanthin 58, 68, 127, 214, 307 Buddhism 10, 15, 101, 277, 289 AA. See arichidonic acid astringency 49, 125, 280–281, 307 bull kelp 236, 245 acetic acid 104, 305 ATP. See adenosine triphosphate buri 212, 296 actin 55, 305 avocado 179, 193, 237, 242–243 Buson, Yosa 223, 295 acyltransferase 187 awase-zu 155–156, 296 adenosine triphosphate 34, 55, 305 azuki 263, 296 C in fish 16 caffeine 281, 307 agar 263, 305 B calcite 76, 307 agari 154, 296 bacteria 27, 94, 112, 125, 159 calcium carbonate 76, 307 ajitsuke nori 90, 304 salt-tolerant 126 calcium sulphate 93, 280, 307 aka-jiso 110, 296. See also shiso baltic whitefish 213 tofu production 93 akami 19, 203, 296 bamboo California 17 aka-miso 95, 296. See also miso brush 277 roll 18, 171 alcohol 104, 129, 306 rolling mat 146, 165 cancer 10–13, 33, 64, 196, 241, 278 alga 36, 59. See also seaweed sieve 147 canthaxanthin 58, 307 fatty acids 65 skewers 147 capsaicin 109, 132, 307 umami 44 whisk 286 carbohydrate 27, 307 alkaloid 281, 306 bancha 284, 296 dietary 12 alpha-linolenic acid 32, 33, 59, 197, 306 basashi 227, 296 in beans 93 in shiso 110 Bashō, Matsuo 3–4, 119, 267 in rice 99 Alzheimer’s disease 82, 117 battera 178, 296 cardiovascular disease 10–13, 13, 64, 65, amaebi 74, 226, 296 battleship sushi 174. See gunkan-maki 82, 196 amago-yaki 269 bean. See also soybean carotenoid 58, 68, 307 amakuchi 102, 296 azuki 263 carp 15 amino acid 27, 306 paste 263, 278 carrot 58, 260 essential 29 beefsteak plant 110 casein 93, 307 in katsuobushi 255 beer with sushi 274 catalysis 29 in molluscs 76 bentō 195, 296 caviar 68, 174 in proteins 28 beri-beri 101 cell 27, 307 in soy sauce 94 bile salt 36 membrane 27, 36, 38, 62, 121, 125 in sweet shrimp 226 bipolar disease 188 nucleus 27 amphiphile 31, 306 bittern 93, 307. See also nigari sensory 47–48 amylopectin 28, 99, 306 bivalve 53, 75, 307 wall 28 in sweet rice 100 Biwa, Lake 15 cellulose 28, 308 amylose 28, 99, 306 Bloch, Konrad 37 cephalopod 53, 75, 308 anago 212, 296 blood pressure 10–13, 130, 236 taste 76 anisakis 81, 306 blowfish 223 cha 276–287, 297. See also tea anthocyanin 110, 306 bluefin tuna 76 , 204 chaji 290, 297 antibiotic 306 bonito. See katsuo cha-kaiseki 284, 290 in farmed fish 87 brain 45, 65, 82 chanoyu 9–10, 277, 288, 297 antioxidant 13, 65, 306 evolution of 114–117 chasen 286, 297 in tea 278 fat contents 114 chestnut 263 aoaka-jiso 110, 296. See also shiso fatty acids 64 children’s sushi 184 ao-jiso 110, 296. See also shiso human 186–189 chili 49 ao-nori 113, 296 breastfeeding 80 China 9, 15, 85, 87, 238, 277, 279 aquaculture 78, 85 bromophenol 59, 76, 127, 224 chirashimori 192, 297. See also morit- arachidonic acid 114, 187, 307 browning 126, 243 suke 324 Index chirashi-zushi 23, 176–177, 297 dermis 55, 172, 208, 309 in fish 95 , 60, 121 cholesterol 13, 32, 308 dessert 262–265 in food 29 binding of 66 DHA. See docosahexanoic acid in tea 279 in blood 64–65 diabetes 10–13, 196 in tsukemono 130 in evolution 36–39 diatom 80 rice fermentation 104 in seafood 67 diet EPA. See eicosapentanoic acid chopstick 271–273 fatty acids 12 epidermis 208, 309 wash 272 Japanese 10–13 ergosterol 36 citric acid 136, 308 Mediterranean 12 ester 95, 126, 309 coagulation 308 recommendations 13, 65, 83, 117 ethanol 95, 96, 102, 309 of soybean proteins 93 Western 12 ethylene 243, 309 cod 65, 67, 81 digestion 60 eukaryote 38, 309 coffee 281 and tsukemono 136 evolution collagen 55, 75, 125, 126, 172, 308 dimethyl sulphide 88, 127, 309 human brain 114–117 colloid 60, 308 in seaweed 90 of species and sterols 36–39 conservation of fish 121 dinoflagellate 80 convection 257, 308 dioxin 80, 309 F corn 32 DNA. See deoxyribonucleic acid Faero Islands 83 crab 81, 226 docosahexaenoic acid 32, 33, 114, 187, fat 27, 309. See also omega-3 and Crawford, Michael 115 197, 309 omega-6 fatty acid crayfish 18 , 127 in fish 4–66 7 degree of saturation 33 crosslinking 28, 75, 308 donko 238, 297 dietary 12 crustacean 53 Drew-Baker, Kathleen Mary 91 in fish 76 colour 58, 127 dulse 236. See also seaweed in food 30 taste 74 dyslexia 188 in sea urchin 76 texture 74 in soybeans 93 crustacyanin 58, 127, 214, 308 E melting 30 cucumber 130, 133, 234, 260 ebi 67, 162, 180, 214–215, 297. See fatty acid 27, 310 cutting 142 also shrimp essential 32 board 144 echinoderm 53, 309 in beans 93 cuttlefish 76 , 81, 218 edamame 235, 297 in brain 187 texture 75 cooking 235 in fish 76 Edo 8–11, 15, 16, 297 fermentation 15, 20, 121, 310 D edomae-zushi 17, 297 fish 126 daikon 95, 132, 234, 297 eel 67. See also anago or unagi medium 132 daizu 93, 297 nigiri-zushi 212 of miso 95 ‘dancing shrimp’ 226 eggplant 130, 133, 234, 244 of sake 102 Darwinian evolution 37–38 drying 244 of soybeans 94 dashi 260, 297 eicosanoid 13, 309 sushi 15 cooking 253 eicosapentaenoic acid 32, 33, 114, 309 fibre 28 deba-bōchō 142, 297 in fish 46 , 65 in crustaceans 75 decapod 53, 308 emulsion 88, 309 Finland 20 defrosting 124 with fish oil 56 fish 35 denaturing 308 enokitake 167, 250, 297 bone 159 of protein 29, 55, 57, 122–127, 205, enzyme 107, 309 bony 55, 66 207, 216, 220, 243, 249, 279 degradation of fish 54 calorie content 66 denbu 226, 297, 301. See also oboro denaturation 122 colour 57 deoxyribonucleic acid 308 fermentation 126 consumption 10–13 in DNA molecule 34 in crustaceans 74 cooked 55, 57, 81, 126–127 Index 325

cutting 158–160 fungi 36 H diet 82–85 furikake 88, 112–113, 237, 245, 297 haddock 67 farming 61, 64, 78 futomaki 22, 164, 166, 171, 297 hagotae 48, 298 fat contents 33, 61 haiku 3–4, 223, 298 fermentation 126 G hako-gata 161, 298. See also nigiri-zushi freshness 59, 158 gall salt 66 hako-zushi 16, 298 fresh water 61, 81 gari 132, 154, 194, 242, 261, 298 halibut 57, 67, 209 frozen 19, 81, 121 with sushi 271 hamachi 212, 298 health benefits 2–88 5, 196 garlic 49 hangiri 145, 155, 298 marinating 81, 125 gastrophysics xiv–xv, 310 hashi 271–273, 298. See also chopstick market 70–73 gastropod 53, 310 hashiarai 272, 298 muscles 54–58 gel 93, 99, 310 hashibukuro 272, 298 odour 59, 121 gelatine 55, 100, 125, 126, 310 hashi-oki 272, 298 oil 30, 64–65, 117 gelation 88–91, 310 haya-zushi 15, 298 parasites 81 gene 27, 34, 188, 310 heart attack 12 raw 81 human 12–15 heavy metal 80. See also methylmer- roe 68 genmaicha 284, 298 cury salted 15, 125 genome 34, 310 hemoglobin 56–57, 311 salt water 62, 81 geoduck 225 Herbst’s bloodleaf 110 shortage 85 geta 191, 298 herring 19, 20, 60, 67, 81 skin 126, 159, 172 gherkin 261 nigiri-zushi 210 smell 59–60. See also trimethyla- ginger 130 roe 210 mine pickled 132, 234, 270 worm 81 sperm 227 gingerol 132, 310 hijiki 87, 258, 260, 298 storage 59 glasswort 246 hikari-mono 19, 298 stressed 54 gliadin 237, 310 Hippocrates 196 taste 60–61 glucose 28, 61, 104, 219, 310 hirame 209, 298 toxins 80 glucosinolate 107, 311 hiramori 192, 298. See also moritsuke unstressed 61 glutamic acid 29, 76, 94, 237, 279, 311 hiyashi wakame 258 flatfish 209 gluten 29, 99, 237, 311 hōchō 141–143, 298 flavone 122, 279, 310 glutenin 237, 311 hojicha 284, 298 flavonol 27 9 glycine 29, 61, 76, 219, 311 hokanomono 19, 298 flax seed 32, 33, 197, 199 glycogen 57, 74, 76, 124, 219, 311 Holland 18 flounder 16 in fish muscle 65 , 61 Homo sapiens 186 flower arrangement 9–10. See also ike- GMP. See guanosine monophosphate evolution 115 bana goma 112, 298 hone nuki 147, 299 flying fish 68 gomai oroshi 158, 298 hon-maguro 204, 299 food gomoku-zushi 176, 298 hormone 13, 36 as medicine 196–199 grater 147 Horrobin, David 186 chemistry 42 gravlaks xiii, 20, 213 horseradish 49, 107. See also wasabi freezing of seafood 121–124 gu 19, 161, 298 horse, raw meat 227 fu 237, 297 in chirashi-zushi 176 hoshi-nori 88, 299 fucosterol 36 in maki-zushi 165 hosomaki 22–23, 164, 166, 299 fugu 223, 297 in temaki-zushi 182 hotategai 67, 174, 219, 299 fukin 146, 286, 297 guanine 208, 311 hydrocarbon 30, 32, 311 funa-gata 161, 297. See also nigiri-zushi guanosine monophosphate 34, 44, 311 hydrogen bond 122, 311 funamori 174, 297. See also gunkan- in fish 16 hydrophilic 31, 311 maki gunkan-maki 22–23, 88, 174, 298 hydrophobic 31, 311 funa-zushi 15, 297 gyokuro 284, 298 326 Index

I kelp 44, 132, 236, 258. See also seaweed, liposome 30–31, 312 ice cream 265 konbu lipoxygenase 59, 312 Iceland 12 kensho 3, 299 liver 28 ichiban dashi 253, 299 ketone 126, 312 lobster 127 ika 67, 174, 218, 299. See also squid kihada 204, 299 long neck clam 225 ikebana 9–10, 191, 289, 299 knife 141–143 lumpfish 68 Ikeda, Kikunae 44 sharpening 143 ikijime 19, 54, 299 kodomo-zushi 184, 299 M ikizukuri 193, 232, 299 kohada 210, 299 maccha 263–265, 277, 284, 291, 300. See ikura 66, 67, 68, 299 kōika 218, 299 also tea immune system 13 kōji 94, 95, 102, 299 drinking rules 286 IMP. See inosine monophosphate kombu. See konbu mackerel 60, 67, 81, 206 inada 212, 299. See also hamachi kona wasabi 108–109, 300 marinating 207, 248 inflammation 3 konbu 44, 87, 132, 236, 253, 254, 256, nigiri-zushi 208 inosine monophosphate 34, 44, 76, 311 258, 300 macrokelp 236 iodine 59, 260 kōnomono 133, 300 macromolecular assembly 27, 30, 312 in seaweed 88 Korea 18, 87 macromolecule 27, 312 in shrimp 215 kuchi atari 48, 300 magnesium chloride 93, 312 ion 311 kuchikami no sake 104, 300 maguro 204, 231, 269, 300. See also tuna channel 31, 46 kuro goma 112 Maillard reactions 95, 126, 312 irritation Kurti, Nicolas 42 makisu 146, 165, 300 in taste sensation 49 kusaya 126, 300 maki-zushi 88, 164–171 wasabi 108 kushi 147, 300 kappa-maki 170 isothiocyanate 107, 312 kushi-gata 161, 300. See also nigiri-zushi origin 17 itamae 144, 150, 299 Kyoto 8–11, 15, 227 shinko-maki 170 kyūri 133, 300 tamago-maki 170 J manaita 144, 300 jelly 263 L Manekineko xviii, 8–11, 300 lactic acid 56, 61, 74, 96, 102, 124, 126, mannitol 87, 313 K 133, 255, 312 Margulis, Lynn 38 kaiseki 272, 277, 290, 299 bacteria 20, 94, 126, 129 masu 274, 300 kaiten-zushi xxi, 299 lanosterol 312 mayonnaise 167 kaki 174, 299. See also oyster lemon sole 67 mazemori 192, 300. See also moritsuke kakomi-zushi 174, 299. See also gunkan- lenthionine 241, 312 McGee, Harold 42 maki lentinan 241, 312 melanin 68, 313 kalakukko 20 life 27 melanoid 126, 313 kampai 274, 299 evolution of 36–39 melittin 29 kani 226, 299. See also crab higher forms of 38 melon 264 kanji 15, 299 lifestyle disease 12, 196 membrane 27, 30–31, 313 kanpachi 212, 299. See also hamachi limonene 112, 312 fluidity 93 Kansai 16, 178 linoleic acid 32, 33, 59, 242, 312 transport 32 kanten 263, 299 enzymatic breakdown 241 mental illness 10–13, 33, 82, 188, 196 kappa-maki 299. See also maki-zushi in sesame seeds 112 mercury. See methylmercury karakuchi 102, 299 linolenic acid 312. See also alpha-lino- meron 264, 300 karei 209, 299 leinc acid metabolic syndrome 12, 313 kasanemori 192 lipase 187. See also enzyme methylmercury 82-83, 199, 313 katsuo 253 lipid 30, 312 miner’s lettuce 246 katsuobushi 73, 104, 253, 255, 299 membrane 28, 31 mirin 102–104, 212, 260, 300. See kazunoko 210, 299 lipoprotein 187, 312 also rice wine Index 327 mirugai 225, 300 N octenol 241, 314 miso 95, 132, 300 Nagoya 227 octopus 19, 53, 67, 162 soup xix, 256–257 nama fu 237, 300 cooking 216 soup, smell 47 nama-zushi 15, 300 nigiri-zushi 216 miso-shiru 300 namida 270, 300 texture 75 miso-zuke 95, 129, 300 nare-zushi 15, 300 odori 226, 301 mitochondria 38, 56, 313 nasu 134, 301 ōgi-gata 161, 301. See also nigiri-zushi mold for oshi-zushi 148 nazuke 133, 301 o-hitsu 145, 301 molecular nerve cell 31, 45, 186 ohyō 209, 301 gastronomy 42, 313 nervous system 82, 186, 196, 281 oil 314 motor 55, 313 neta 19, 154, 301 in food 30 molecules 313 neurodegenerative disease 82 oleic acid 30, 33, 314 in food 26–34 neuron 47, 186 in sesame seeds 112 mollusc 53, 313 niban dashi 253, 301 olfaction 47–48 taste 76 nigari 93, 301 olive oil 30, 33 texture 75 nigiri-zushi 22–23, 161–163, 194, 301 omakase xix, 301 monosaccharide 27, 28 origin 16 omega-3 fatty acid 13, 32, 33, 64, 197, 314 monosodium glutamate 44, 74, 236, taste 49 cognitive abilities 84 237, 313 nimono-dane 19, 301 in fish 5–66 7 in fish 16 nishin 210, 301. See also herring in seaweed 88 in seaweed 87 nitsume 212 in soybeans 93 monounsaturated 30, 33 Nō 9–10, 301 omega-6 fatty acid 32, 242, 314 moriawase. See moritsuke nojime 19, 54, 301 dietary 13 moritsuke 192, 300 nori 87, 88–90, 301 in soybeans 93 mother’s milk 80, 117 farming 90–91 omelette 162 moto 102, 300 for gunkan-maki 174 nigiri-zushi 220 mouthfeel 48–49 for maki-zushi 166 pan 148 tsukemono 234 for temaki-zushi 182 ōmori 193, 301 MSG. Se monosodium glutamate in chirashi-zushi 176 onigiri 251, 301 mu 193, 291, 300 in omelette 220 onji 3, 302 muscle moisture 269 organelle 38 colour 57–58 roasted. See furikake oroshi-gane 107, 147, 302 contraction 55 nucleic acid 27, 314 Osaka 16, 178, 212, 223 fibre 122 nucleotide 27, 314 oshibako 148, 178, 302 fish 54–58 in food 34 oshibori 270, 302 protein 29 nuka 129, 301 oshinko 130, 302 scallop 75 nuka-doko 132, 234, 301 oshinko-maki 133 slow and fast 56 nuka-miso 132, 301 oshi-zushi 16, 23, 178–180, 302 texture 54 nuka-zuke 129, 301 osmosis 61, 62, 260, 314 mushroom 238 nusumu no gei 150 in preservation 125 mustard 49, 107, 313 nutraceutical 196 osmotic pressure 62, 76, 87, 315 mycelium 94, 314 nutrition 12 oxidation 315 myocommata 55, 314 of fat 33, 65, 93, 121 myoglobin 28, 29, 56–57, 75, 232, 314 O of fat in fish 122 myosepta 55, 314 obesity 10–13, 196 oxygen myosin 55, 314 oboro 226, 301 in atmosphere 37 myotome 55, 66, 203, 205, 314 ocean perch 159, 172 transport 56 myrosinase 314 nigiri-zushi 211 oyster 53, 174 328 Index

P protozoa 81, 316 salmon 19, 20, 54, 55, 65, 67, 81 palmitic acid 33 psychiatric disorder 117, 188, 196 colour 58 palm kernel oil 33 and fatty acids 13 fermented 126 parasite 81, 125 pufferfish 322 marinating 249 Parkinson’s disease 117 purslane 246 nigiri-zushi 203 PCB 80, 82, 315 pyrazine 74, 95, 316 oven baked 250 pectin 130 roe 68, 174 perilla 110–112. See also shiso R sashimi 203 acid 112, 315 radish 130, 132, 234 salt in seaweed 236 pesticide 82 rakfisk 126 sanmai oroshi 158, 302 phenol 255, 315 raku 9–10, 141, 191, 274, 302 sasa-giri 194, 302 in tea 279, 280 rancid 65 sashimi 66, 110, 231–233, 302 oxidation 243 Rayleigh-Bernard convection 257 texture 49 phospholipid 315. See also lipid receptor 31, 32, 316 saturation of fatty acids 32–33 in fish 56 taste 42, 44–46 scallop 67, 75 phytosterol 36 respiration 37 nigiri-zushi 219 pigment 58 retina 65 schizophrenia 188 pike-perch 159, 172, 185 ribonucleic acid 34, 316 sea bass 172 nigiri-zushi 211 rice 98–105 nigiri-zushi 210 piperin 109, 132, 315 balls 251 seabream 211 plaice 67 bran 129 sea lettuce 88, 113 plum 130, 136 cooker 100, 144 sea trout 67 pollock 213 cooking 99, 155–156 sea urchin 19, 53, 66, 67, 174 polyamide 29, 315 for sushi 101 roe 76, 224 polymer 29, 315 grain 99 seaweed 33, 44 in osmosis 62 vinegar 15, 104, 130 dietary 13 Polynesia 18 wine 102–104 farming 78 polynucleotide 34, 315 rigor mortis 19, 54, 60, 316 for sushi 88–90 polyphenol 278, 315 and fish freezing 124 salad 258–259 oxidase 279, 315 Rikyu, Sen-no 289–291 simmered 260 polysaccharide 27, 28, 315 RNA. See ribonucleic acid taste 87–88 in osmosis 62 roe 19, 53, 66, 67 technological applications 88 in seaweed 258 from fish 68 toasted 236 polyunsaturated 33 sea urchin 76 seitan 237 porcupine fish 223 ryōri 10, 237, 302 self-organization 31 Porphyra 87, 88, 91 sencha 277, 284, 302 portulaca 246 S sengiri 110, 170, 245, 302 pregnancy 32, 84, 117 saba 174, 195, 206, 258, 302. See sensory perception 40–47 preservation also mackerel sesame 112, 148 by fermentation 126 sabi 3, 8–9, 167, 289, 302 Seychelles 83 by pickling 129 saccharide 28, 316 shabu-shabu 253, 302 prokaryote 37, 316 taste 46 shamoji 145, 302 protein 27, 316 sakazuki 274, 302 shari 101, 154, 302 denaturation 55, 57, 122, 125 sake-maki 170 shark 80 in fish 46 sake (rice wine) xix, 102 shellfish 35 in food 28 with sushi 274 cooking 126–127 in miso 95 sake (salmon) 203, 302. See also salmon farming 78 in soybeans 93 sakura niku 227, 302 fat contents 67 structure 29 saliva 49, 108, 281 frozen 121 Index 329

poisoning 80 sterol 36–39, 316 tamago-yaki-nabe 148, 220–221 shiba-zuke 134, 302 sturgeon 68 tamari 94, 96, 303 shiitake 44, 171, 238–241, 254, 256, 302 su 104, 303. See also rice vinegar tane 19, 154, 159, 303 marinating 241 subcutaneous fat 187 tannin 49, 280, 316 shimafuri 159, 172, 302 sudare 303 taste 31 shinko 302. See also oshinko sugar 28, 316. See also carbohydrate bud 45, 109 shinko-maki. See maki-zushi in DNA 34 of food 41 Shinto 99, 102, 104, 129, 302 sugata-zushi 17, 303 sensation 49 shio 133, 302 sugimori 192, 194 tea 279 shio-zuke 133, 302 suihanki 144 tataki 205, 232, 303 shirako 227, 302 suimono 254, 303 tatami xviii, 303 shiro goma 112 sujime 206, 303 taurine 66, 316 shiromi 19, 302 sunflower oil 32 tawara-gata 161, 303. See also nigiri- shiro-miso 95, 302. See also miso superunsaturated 13, 33, 64 zushi shiru 302. See also soup surface tension 282 tazuna-zushi 168, 303 shiso 19, 110–112, 134–135, 176, 182, 234, sursild 20 tea 276–287 244, 251, 302 surströmming 126 black 278–279 in sushi 171 sushi ceremony 272, 277, 286, 288–291 shitazawari 48, 302 and health 10–13 green 277–279 shōchū 102, 302 bar xviii–xxi, 6–9 green, desserts 262–265 shōga 132, 302 chef xx, 6–9 green, varieties 284 shōjin ryōri 10, 237, 302 chef training 150–151 master 289 shōyu 94–95, 96, 260, 303 definition and history 4–11 9 powdered 277, 284 pouring 270 dietary 13 tekka-ba 166 shrimp 19, 53, 67, 74, 127, 162, 180 globalization 17 tekka-maki 164, 166, 194, 303 cooking 215 kiosk 16 temaki-zushi 23, 88, 182–183, 303 muscle 74 olfaction 48 temari-zushi 185, 251, 303 nigiri-zushi 214 presentation 190–195 tempura xix, 47, 110, 303 sweet 74 rice 155–156 tenderizing fish skin 126, 147, 159, 211 siika 213 science 5 terpene 112, 244, 317 sinigrin 107, 316 variations 22–23 tetrodotoxin 223, 317 smell 31 sushi-dane 154, 303 texture of food 48 of food 47–49 sushi-meshi 155, 303 theanine 279, 317 smelt 68 sushinoko 104, 303 thiamine 101, 317 snapper 67 sushiya 150, 303 thiazole 74, 317 soft shell crab 226 suzuki 210, 303 thioglucosidase 107, 317 soup 252–257 sweet shrimp 226 third spice 45 soybean 32, 92–97. See also edamame swordfish 80 This, Hervé 42 dietary fats 13 synapse 186 tilapia 67, 208 soy milk 264 tobiko 68, 174, 176, 303 soy sauce. See shōyu T tofu 93, 254, 303 spices in Japanese cuisine 106 tai 211, 303 with green tea 264 spider roll 226 takara-bune 191, 303 toishi 143, 303 squash 245 tako 67, 162, 216, 303 toku 132, 303 squid 53 tako-biki 142, 303 Tokyo 8–11, 15, 70, 212 nigiri-zushi 218 takuan-zuke 19, 132–133, 234, 303 tonguefeel 48 starch 28, 99, 102, 104, 155, 316 tamago 104, 162, 303 tooth resistance 48 granules 99 tamago-maki. See maki-zushi toro 58, 66, 205, 269, 303 steel 143 tamago-yaki 148, 220–221, 303 toxin 80, 199, 317 330 Index triglyceride 65, 317 V freezing 121 trimethylamine 60, 62, 74, 121, 317 vacuole 317 in crustaceans 74 fish odour 67 vegetable 12 in food 27 trimethylamine oxide 62, 76 vegetarian 10, 164 taste 45 tsukemono 128–137, 234, 304 vinegar 125, 129, 317 Western lifestyle 10–13 texture 130 viscosity 49, 317 whetting stone 143 with shiso 110, 112 vitamin 317 wooden Tsukiji 70–73, 304 A 88, 212 mold 178 tuna 19, 57, 81, 159 B 64, 88, 101, 130, 240, 260 paddle 145 auction 71 C 88, 109, 129, 130 sheath 143 nigiri-zushi 204, 205 D 36 tub 145 sashimi 231 E 64, 88 toxins 80 K 64 Y turbot 67 yaki-nori 90, 304 turbulence 281, 317 W yanagiba-bōchō 142, 304 tweezers 147 wabi 3, 8–9, 8–11, 155, 289, 304 yeast 27 wabi sabi 8–9, 141, 277 yellowfin tuna 76 , 204 U wakame 87, 254, 256, 258, 304 yellowtail 212 uchiwa 155, 304 waribashi 272, 304 Yohei, Hanaya 16–17 uma 227, 304 wasabi 73, 107–109, 194, 242, 304 yōkan 263, 304 umami 44, 237, 238, 304 at the table 270–271 yonezu 104, 304 and nucleic acids 34 in gunkan-maki 175 yosemori 192, 304. See also moritsuke in seaweed 87 in maki-zushi 165 Yoshiichi, Matsumoto 16 ume 136, 304 in nigiri-zushi 161 yukari 113, 136, 304 umeboshi 110, 130, 135, 136–137, 304 in oshi-zushi 178 yukinoshita 304 unagi 212, 304. Se ål in temaki-zushi 183 unagiba-bōchō 304 taste 49 Z uni 66, 67, 76, 174, 224, 304 washcloth xix, 270 zaru 147, 304 unsaturation 33 water Zen 2–3, 8–11, 130, 191, 193, 277, 289, uramaki 22–23, 164, 168, 171, 304 boiling 100, 281–283 304 usuba-bōchō 142, 304 for tea 280–281 zucchini 245