Canary Islands
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Canary Islands Lanzarote p97 La Palma p180 La Gomera p164 Tenerife Fuerteventura El Hierro p120 p75 p202 Gran Canaria p42 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Lucy Corne, Josephine Quintero PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to the GRAN CANARIA . 42 LANZAROTE . 97 Canary Islands . 4 Las Palmas de Arrecife . 99 Canary Islands Map . 6 Gran Canaria . 45 Costa Teguise . 104 Tafira Alta . 55 Canary Islands’ Top 17 . 8 Teguise . 105 Caldera de Bandama Guatiza & Charco Need to Know . 16 & Santa Brígida . 55 del Palo . 107 If You Like… . 18 Telde . 55 Arrieta . 107 Agüimes . 56 Month by Month . 21 Malpaís de la Corona . 107 Barranco de Órzola . 108 Itineraries . 23 Guayadeque . 57 Chinijo Archipelago . 108 Teror . 58 Outdoor Activities . 27 Mirador del Río . 110 Arucas . 59 Travel with Children . 35 Haría . 110 Moya . 61 La Caleta de Famara . 111 Regions at a Glance . 38 Santa María de Guía . 61 San Bartolomé . 113 Gáldar . 62 La Geria . 114 Agaete & Puerto de las Nieves . 63 Parque Nacional de Timanfaya . 114 Aldea de San Nicolás . 64 Puerto del Carmen . 115 KAROL KOZLOWSKI / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / KOZLOWSKI KAROL Artenara . 65 Puerto Calero . 117 Tejeda . 66 Yaiza . 117 Fataga . 67 El Golfo . 118 Playa del Inglés & Maspalomas . 68 Playa Blanca . 118 Puerto Rico Punta del Papagayo . 119 & Arguineguín . 72 Puerto de Mogán . 73 TENERIFE . 120 Mogán . 74 Santa Cruz de Tenerife . 123 La Laguna . 130 SANTA CRUZ DE LA PALMA FUERTEVENTURA . 75 P183 Peurto del Rosario . 78 San Andrés . 133 Betancuria . 80 Taganana & the Anaga Mountains . 134 Antigua . 81 MICHAL SLECZEK / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / SLECZEK MICHAL Punta del Hidalgo . 134 Caleta de Fuste . 83 Tacoronte . 134 La Oliva . 85 Puerto de la Cruz . 135 Corralejo . 86 La Orotava . 141 El Cotillo . .90 Icod de los Vinos . 144 La Lajita . 92 Garachico . 145 Península de Jandía . 92 Parque Nacional del Costa Calma . 92 Teide . 146 La Pared . 93 Punta de Teno . 150 Playa de Sotavento Santiago del Teide . 150 de Jandía . 93 Masca . 150 PUERTO DE MOGÁN P73 Morro Jable . 94 Contents UNDERSTAND Los Gigantes EL HIERRO . .. 202 Canary Islands & Puerto de Santiago . 151 Valverde . 205 Today . 236 Los Cristianos, Playa de las El Mocanal . .. 207 History . 238 Américas & Costa Adeje . 152 Echedo . 207 Las Galletas . 160 Island Cuisine . 245 Tamaduste & Candelaria . 161 La Caleta . 208 Canarian Arts & Culture . 248 Güímar . 162 Puerto de la Estaca El Médano . 163 & Las Playas . 208 Life on a Volcano . 253 Mirador de la Peña . 209 LA GOMERA . 164 San Andrés . 209 San Sebastián Isora . 210 SURVIVAL de la Gomera . 166 El Pinar . 210 GUIDE Parque Nacional de Garajonay . 171 Hoya del Morcillo . 210 Directory A–Z . 258 Hermigua . 173 La Restinga . 211 El Cedro . 174 El Golfo . 212 Transport . 264 Agulo . 174 Las Puntas . 212 Language . 268 Vallehermoso . 175 La Maceta & Charco Los Sargos . 213 Index . .. 277 Playa Santiago . 176 Tigaday . 213 Map Legend . 287 Alajeró . 177 La Frontera . 214 Valle Gran Rey . 178 Los Llanillos & Sabinosa . 214 LA PALMA . 180 La Dehesa . 215 Santa Cruz de la Ermita de Nuestra Palma . 183 Señora de los Reyes . 215 Los Cancajos . 188 El Sabinar & Around . 215 Breña Alta . 189 Villa de Mazo . 189 ACCOMMODATION . .. 216 Parque Ecológico Gran Canaria . 218 de Belmaco . 190 Fuerteventura . 221 Fuencaliente . 191 Lanzarote . 223 El Paso . 193 Tenerife . 226 Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente . 194 La Gomera . 229 Los Llanos de Aridane . 196 La Palma . 231 Puerto Naos . 198 El Hierro . 233 San Andrés & Los Sauces . 199 Los Tiles . 199 Parque Cultural La Zarza . 201 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23 Itineraries Las Palmas É •# de Gran Puerto •# É Canaria de las •# Arucas Nieves Gran Canaria Puerto •# de la Aldea •# Tejeda É Barranco de Guayadeque •# •# Agüimes É É Puerto •# ATLANTIC de Mogán OCEAN É •# Maspalomas 1 WEEK The Best of Gran Canaria A week on Gran Canaria gives you enough time to explore the museums and restaurants of the capital, munch seafood along the coast, admire the mountains and even spend a little time on the beach. Start in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria with a gentle stroll on Playa de las Canteras or a dip in the ultra-calm ocean – perfect for snorkelling. Pass the second day wander- ing the cobbles of historic Vegueta with its stellar museums. Day three, head to the lovely town of Arucas before hitting the north coast to sample seafood in Puerto de las Nieves. Day four, tackle the spectacular winding west coast road, grabbing lunch in quiet Puerto de la Aldea, then continue the magnificent drive to pretty Puerto de Mogán, with its Med-style yachting harbour. Day five, swing southeast to the shim- mering sands of Maspalomas for a stroll or a swim, then take the GC-60 north to Tejeda for lunch with a view. Spend day six on a mountain hike or drive, drinking in the jaw-dropping scenery. To finish, wind your way down to Agüimes with its lovely pastel- painted buildings and historic charm, then veer back inland to the lush Barranco de Guayadeque for lunch in a cave. 24 WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES SABINE LUBENOW / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / LOOK-FOTO / LUBENOW SABINE Above: Valle Gran Rey (p178), La Gomera Left: Harbour in Corralejo (p86), Fuerteventura 25 Isla Graciosa •# Cueva de Los Verdes •# & Jameos del Agua Haría•# La Caleta de Famara•# É •# Arrieta É Parque Nacional •#Teguise de Timanfaya÷# É •# PLAN YOUR TRIP El Golfo •# É •# La Arrecife ATLANTIC Lanzarote OCEAN Geria Isla de f# Lobos •# ATLANTIC Lajares Corralejo OCEAN El Cotillo •# •# La Oliva •# É IT I Puerto del NERAR É •# Rosario Betancuria •# I Pájara •# Pozo ES É •# Negro Fuerteventura Fuerteventura’s Finest Lanzarote Hot Spots 6 Fuerteventura’s 6 Lanzarote Hot DAYS Finest DAYS Spots The beaches here are brilliant, but there A touch of art, a splash of wine, a dash of is more to the island. This route covers seafood and a whole lot of spectacularly quaint fishing towns and inland villages as stark scenery. well as the famous dunes and beaches. Explore Arrecife’s art and history, take Start at Corralejo’s pretty harbour for a dip at the Playa del Reducto and have a little beach time or some watersports. dinner and drinks at the smart new ma- Continuing in seaside mode, head south- rina. Next day head north for the Cueva east, past the endless shifting dunes on de los Verdes and Jameos del Agua be- the FV-1 road. End the day with a stroll fore the tour buses arrive, then backtrack and dinner in Puerto del Rosario. Day and take the rest of the day off in simple two, continue south, stopping at pint-sized seaside Arrieta. Day three, head for over- Pozo Negro, where simple seafood res- looked Órzola, launchpad for ferries to taurants overlook the surf. It’s time for a Isla Graciosa. Spend the day on deserted break from all those blues, so wend your beaches and the night in utter tranquillity. way inland to pretty Pájara. Pop into the Back on Lanzarote, stop at postcard-pretty extraordinary church here and pray for a Haría to visit artist César Manrique’s for- free room at the town’s lovely casa rural. mer home. Then head south to Teguise, a Day three, stop at Betancuria’s eye- great little town that’s a joy to wander. End catching church and quirky museums then in La Caleta de Famara for a seafood spend the afternoon exploring the art and dinner as the sun sets. Watch dawn surfers architecture of La Oliva. Spend day five in in action before visiting the wineries of the low-key beachside town of El Cotillo, La Geria. Day six, explore the lava fields sampling its fine cafes, eating seafood of the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya, and watching the surfers. Day six, return joining the bus tour through the dramatic to Corralejo via the hip surfing village of Ruta de los Volcanes. Stay over in unspoilt Lajares, ending with an afternoon ferry El Golfo and enjoy more seafood overlook- to unspoilt Isla de Lobos for a relaxing ing the waves. stroll on the sand. 26 •#Charco Azul •# San Andrés ÷# Los Tiles Parque Nacional÷# de la Caldera •# Santa Cruz de la Palma de Taburiente •# É •# PLAN YOUR TRIP Puerto Villa Naos de Mazo La É É •# La Palma Puerto de Laguna f# la Cruz •# Garachico •# É •# La Orotava ATLANTIC É OCEAN Pico del La R Teide Gomera É Playa de Hermigua •# IT Ù# la Caleta Tenerife Alto de GarajonayR É I •# NERAR La Playa É •# •# •# Valle Gran Rey •# San Sebastián Los Cristianos É de la Gomera Playa Ecomuseo f# Santiago I ES de Guinea ATLANTIC Charco OCEAN É Azul ‚ •# •# •# Tigaday•# Valverde ÷#• El Pinar Tenerife & La Palma El Hierro •# La Gomera & El Hierro La Restinga 10 Tenerife & 1 La Gomera & DAYS La Palma WEEK El Hierro It’s all perfectly preserved architecture and Simple pleasures reign on the smallest impressive mountain backdrops on this islands: rustic cuisine, forest hikes, ocean island-hopping adventure. swims and plenty of winding roads. On Tenerife, stay two nights in Puerto Spend the first day on La Gomera ex- de la Cruz, enjoying the shops, bars and ploring the backstreets, big streets and beaches. Day three visit La Orotava, with everything in between in San Sebastián. its grand 17th-century mansions. Still in his- The next day recover from all that urban torical mode, continue on to La Laguna’s exhaustion with a dip at Playa Santiago. traditional quarter for an overnight stay. Day three, head to the verdant north, Next day, retrace your steps to contrasting stopping at traditional Hermigua and Garachico and its simple fishermen’s cot- postcard-pretty Playa de la Caleta.