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Journal 2016A 06/11/2018 11:03 Page 1 Journal 061118 Journal 2016A 06/11/2018 11:03 Page 2 Journal 061118_Journal 2016a 06/11/2018 11:03 Page 1 Journal 061118_Journal 2016a 06/11/2018 11:03 Page 2 THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL 2018 Paul Exley - President 2016-18, taken on Great Gable on the occasion No 85 of the FRCC Act of Remembrance in 2017. Edited by Martin Cooper and Andrew Paul Journal 061118_Journal 2016a 06/11/2018 11:03 Page 4 Contents Fell and Rock Climbing Club Mountain Exploration New Climbs Trevor Langhorne 151 Journal 2018. In Tilman’s Footsteps Richard Hargreaves 9 Alpine Ascents In Slingsby’s Playground Editing Jim Gregson 22 Book Reviews 171 Martin Cooper and Andrew Paul Life in the Lava Mark Gear 28 Mountaineering on the Axis of Evil Design and Typesetting Norbert de Mello 35 Andrew Paul Ups and Downs of a Greenland Expedition Obituaries 189 Jim Gregson 42 Proofreading Iceland’s Laugavegur Trail Dan Hamer 51 Maureen Linton-Lee, Helen Elliot, South West Tasmania Ian Durkacz 59 Wendy Dodds The Lakes and the Club Obituaries Wendy Dodds Half a Bob Graham Round Ian Charters 72 Short History of Fix the Fells Lis Cook 77 Distribution An Old Man’s Century Leslie Shore 82 Martin Cooper Front Cover: Ben Clarke on Space Cadet, Font Mountain Rescue Special Services Ellie Sherwin 86 6c/V4, at the Sampson Stones in Upper All rights reserved. No part of this Crags in the Desert of Eden John McM Moore 92 Eskdale. Photo: Paul Clarke BMC Youth Meets Ron Kenyon 98 publication may be reproduced or Suggestions to Hut Wardens Anon 103 Inside Front Cover/ Half Title: Whiteless Edge transmitted in any form or by any The President’s Bit Paul Exley 105 - into the clouds, Photo : Ian Charters means, electronic or mechanical, in- Images of the Life of the Club Many 109 cluding photocopy, recording, or any Title Page: Blencathra, Photo: Cath Sanders information storage and retrieval sys- Miscellany tem, without permission in writing Opposite: Lewis 2017 - Griomabhal - Islivig from the copyright holder. Direct. Photo: Ron Kenyon Produced by the Fell and Rock Climb- Benighted in Calpe Les Meer 116 ing Club of the English Lake District Sheep may safely graze Mike Cudahy 119 Inside Rear Cover: Spindrift while descending Limited. Industrial and Provident So- A Lucky Escape in the Dolomites. from Creag an Leth-Choin, Cairn Lochan, cieties Registration no: 30506R John Moore and Barry Chislett 123 February 2018. Photo: Dan Carron Alpine Road Trip Phil Behan 126 ISBN: 978-0-85028-06-9 Nowt but a droning thing. Dave Hume 132 Central Buttress of Beinn Eighe Alan Dickinson 136 Printed and bound by Buchanan The Hills are Alive John Spencer 140 McPherson Ltd, Scotland Journal 061118_Journal 2016a 06/11/2018 11:03 Page 6 Editorial Mountain Exploration he most striking feature of this year’s Journal is reflections on editing the Journal might be in undoubtedly the extremely wide range of order. First, it has to be said that the long hours of T Richard Hargreaves overseas locations which contributors have work are a genuine pleasure, mostly because the submitted articles about. Although travel moun- majority of what is published has been submitted Jim Gregson taineering writing has been a growing trend in freely, not solicited. It is rewarding to find that the Journal, we have never before had material many club members still have the urge to write Mark Gear from such a wide sphere. In this edition you will and want to see their words in print. Thank you read about club members’ exploits in Tasmania, to all of the contributors. Thanks also to our team Norbert de Mello Iran, Iceland, Greenland, Norway, the Balkans, the of proof readers, whose contribution has Dolomites, Spain, Cape Verde and the Alps. Cheap undoubtedly enhanced the quality of the finished Jim Gregson air travel and more readily available information product. about worldwide destinations are clearly both Now, if that sounds too rosy a picture, you are Dan Hamer factors at play. However, you will ind for your- right. There have been times when we have had selves in your reading that no lesser part has to request, beg and ask for contributions and to Ian Durkacz been played by the spirit of adventure amongst indulge in some gentle cajoling and persuasion. It club members, young and old. There is much to goes with the territory, of course. And it works! inspire here. But we would not be honest if we did not admit As ever, the Journal also contains much of to moments of despondency. Then an e-mail or interest about climbing and mountaineering in an article appears and soon we are back on track. the UK, with the normal sprinkling of articles The work of producing a climbing journal in about the Lake District and, for once, more than the days before word-processing, digital photog- just one article with a humorous note, which we raphy and electronic communication is already applaud. hard to imagine. We are lucky to have the tools 2018 will be recorded as a year of extreme which are now at our disposal and we hope that weather in the UK. The hardest winter for years the changes that we have made to the Journal in was followed by a long heat wave, resulting in the last few years are seen as worthwhile huts being closed due to shortage of water and improvements. crags as dry as they are ever likely to be. Due to We hope you enjoy the 2018 Journal. rescheduling of distribution of the Journals until the end of the year, as opposed to at the begin- Martin Cooper and Andrew Paul ning of November, we are able to include a full record of all the new routing activity which has taken place this summer, supported by some excellent photography. Right: Eiger N Face, Photo: Bill Comstive Finally, as this edition is the last that the current editors will produce for the club, some ditorial 6 7 Journal 061118_Journal 2016a 06/11/2018 11:03 Page 8 In Tilman’s Footsteps - Trekking in Southern Albania - April 2015 Richard Hargreaves e were on the third day of the irst of two Tilman and Shipton separate treks through the mountains of W This, of course, was Bill Tilman, celebrated, taci- southern Albania. Traversing south through turn mountaineering companion to Eric Shipton villages high above the Zagoria river, in the in the 1920s and 30s, first ascent of Mt. Kenya, village of Nivan we met a water point somewhat discoverer of the route into the Nanda Devi Sanc- grander than the usual pipe and trough affair for tuary, first ascent of Nanda Devi, leader of the man and beast. This one had a cut stone façade, a Everest expedition in 1938; then after World War tiled roof, water gushing from four sculpted Two a different career as sailor explorer in Bristol animal heads, and a plaque: Sheshi Major H W Channel Cutters to Patagonia, the Arctic and the Tilman CBE DSC. South Pacific, until he disappeared at sea near the Falkland Islands in1977. His war service was equally astounding; he was a gunnery officer in the Royal Field Artillery on the Western Front for the full four years of WW1, including the Somme, refusing promotion above the rank of Major. He volunteered for service in WW2, surviving Dunkirk and the desert war in North Africa until, to avoid promotion away from commanding a battery, he volunteered to join the SOE (Special Operations Executive) in Albania for 10 months in 1943/44. He ended the war behind enemy lines again, in northern Italy where he played a big role in saving the city of Belluno from being destroyed Sheshi is ‘square’ in Albanian, so this was Tilman by the Germans. The photo shows Tilman on the Square. Later that day, in the village of Sheper, left, somewhere in Albania in 1944. The building where we were spending the night, my Albanian is probably for drying maize. There are many like was being tested by a man who enquired which it in use in the mountain valleys today. country I came from. 'America? Germany?' 'No,' I I did meet Tilman once, when he came to give said, 'English, from England.' 'Ah, England,' he a lecture 'Mischief in Patagonia' to the Cambridge smiled, “'Tilman, Tilman England,' and he gestured University Mountaineering Club. He left behind a warmly to indicate that Tilman had lived here, copy of his famous recruitment advertisement: maybe in the very house we were staying in. Bells ‘Crew wanted for long and dangerous voyage in rang and pennies dropped as memory overcame small boat in South Atlantic. No pay, no Tilman with partisans, somewhere in Albania. The structure behind is for drying maize, still a common my delighted surprise. sight in mountain villages prospects’. Our club secretary at the time actu- ally did join the boat but only once. A few years 8 9 Journal 061118_Journal 2016a 06/11/2018 11:03 Page 10 ago I was giving a lecture myself to the Clitheroe To the South Kosovo, this journey in the south would be a usually a shower of sorts and the welcome every Mountaineering Club on cross-border trekking in different experience. Different mountains, shorter day was thoroughly Albanian: raki, çaj malit the Balkans Prokletije range of mountains, which In 2014 a group of six from the FRCC had days walking in less dramatic terrain, interspersed (mountain tea of dried hillside herbs), tables straddle Kosovo, Montenegro and northern Alba- supper at a restaurant in Shkodër with Albanian with days for ‘culture’: historic cities and castles, laden with home grown produce, bread baked nia.
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