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The Somerset Levels and Moors Are an Ancient and Wildlife-Rich World Just Waiting to Be Channels Were Cut to Speed the Water to the Sea

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The Somerset Levels and Moors Are an Ancient and Wildlife-Rich World Just Waiting to Be Channels Were Cut to Speed the Water to the Sea Left The ‘Willow Man’ sculpture by Serena de la Hey. At 40ft high, it is thought to be the world’s tallest willow sculpture. SUMMER Right Drainage channels, or ‘rhynes’, criss-cross the ancient watery landscape. Below Willows have been a characteristic feature of the Somerset Levels for around 6000 years, and MAN’S have been harvested for LAND their wood nearly as long. The Somerset Levels and Moors are an ancient and wildlife-rich world just waiting to be channels were cut to speed the water to the sea. In 1831 the first steam-powered explored. Alison Thomas and photographer Kim Sayer are our guides to this remarkable landscape. pumping station swung into action at Westonzoyland. When steam gave way ust outside Bridgwater, a giant hillocks dripping with legend and myth. took up residence, moving down to to diesel in the 1950s, the station fell J Willow Man strides forth beside the Curlews nest, herons fish for eels and the wetlands when the winter floods out of use and it is now a museum M5, inviting travellers to explore the otters hide away in the reedbeds. receded. This is the original Somerset, devoted to the way things were done secret world beyond his outstretched Willows have been a feature of from the Saxon Sumersaeta, meaning in days gone by. arms. Most people scurry on by, this water wonderland since the ‘summer man’s land’. Flooding remains a fact of life, unaware of his significance. Those first settlers moved in 6000 years Since Roman times successive however, and people still live on who know better are richly rewarded. ago. In those days the low-lying populations have tried to control the the higher ground as their ancestors For the Somerset Levels and Moors plain between the Mendip and the water levels and reclaim the land for did, out of harm’s way. The historic are a magical world of flat grassland Quantock Hills was a sodden expanse farming. However, it was the enclosure hearts of their scattered communities and fen, embroidered with a silvery of swamp and mere, with a few ridges movement of the 18th and 19th are built of local blue lias stone or web of brimming rivers and slender and knolls rising from the water, centuries that shaped the landscape we honey-coloured limestone carved ditches called ‘rhynes’. Ephemeral mists like islands marooned in an inland see today. Rivers were straightened, from Ham Hill. ‘Some of our villages curl round the feet of hummocks and sea. It was here that neolithic man tidal sluices were created and new are as pretty as anything you will find 30 BEAUTIFUL BRITAIn / AUTUMN 2009 31 SOMERSET LEVELS M e n d i p H i l l s R.B rue Below left The ruins of 9 Centre. Watching over the scene is the 3 5 A Glastonbury Abbey, M Westhay legendary Glastonbury Tor, crowned by legendary home of King Shapwick Heath Meare Arthur’s grave but stripped the tower of St. Michael’s Church, the A A39 39 RSPB Glastonbury of its power and valuables last in a succession of shrines to occupy e n Ham Wall l d H Glastonbury Tor y Henry VIII in 1539 Bridgwater P o i l l s b this sacred spot. Q R.C Street are during the dissolution u To the west of the Tor, the Avalon a Westonzoyland of the monasteries. n Marshes have their own extraordinary t Right St. Michael’s Tower, o Burrow Mump tale to tell. In the late 19th century, c perched on the top of k 1 A36 Somerton excavations revealed the remains of an H Glastonbury Tor, watches i Stoke St Gregory Langport over the town and its Iron Age village built on the fringes of l l A37 s 2 many popular legends. what was then a marshy sea. A dugout 78 Muchelney 3 Foundations Taunton A R Far right canoe and other artefacts recovered .P ar are just about all that re from the site are on display in the tt remain of the once great Glastonbury Lake Village Museum. Benedictine Abbey at Muchelney, as well as You can also step back in time at the a complete early Tudor Peat Moors Centre near Westhay, house that was originally where full-size reconstructions of Iron the abbot’s lodgings. Age roundhouses capture the spirit of Bottom right The roofed those far-off days. There are replicas market cross (the Butter of prehistoric wetland walkways, Cross), rebuilt in 1673, in the centre of Somerton. including the 6000-year-old ‘Sweet Track’, an ancient timber raised board- walk constructed across the marsh, and believed to be the oldest man-made footpath in the world. If you haven’t visited before, don’t delay. The Centre has fallen victim to budget cuts, and if no one comes to the rescue it will close at the end of October. One way of reaching the Centre is to follow the cycle track that runs through the marshes from Glastonbury. It is only five miles long, in the Cotswolds,’ says Victor Slawski, history and folklore are as hazy as but allow plenty of time to stop and manager of the Langport and River the mist-covered moors that lie stare as it crosses not one, but two Parrett Visitor Centre. ‘The difference beyond its doors. It is the gateway national nature reserves. The first is is that in the Cotswolds they would to the underworld, the mythical isle RSPB Ham Wall, where old peat be tourist traps, while here they’re of Avalon, the last resting place of workings are now a haven for otters, just villages.’ King Arthur and the Holy Grail. In water voles and abundant birdlife. Martock, to the south of Langport, its heyday its abbey was the second No sooner have you left this behind is one such village, with its medieval most powerful in the land, attracting than you come to Shapwick Heath, Treasurer’s House, Georgian Market pilgrims from far and wide. They where the Sweet Track still snakes its House and impressive 13th-century still come here today, together with way beneath the soil while a wealth church. The ancient Saxon town of new-age pagans and spiritual seekers of wildfowl and waders populate the Somerton is another gem. From the of every conceivable kind. It is, of wetlands above. edge of the market place, dignified course, Glastonbury. Walking and cycling are by far the houses and coaching inns overlook You don’t have to believe in best way to appreciate the serene a striking octagonal market cross, with ‘Earth magic’ to fall under its spell. beauty of this ancient landscape. There castellated parapet and gargoyles. The The skeletal ruins of the abbey bear are plenty of routes to choose from, tower of St. Michael and All Angels witness to its momentous past while including the Parrett Trail, a 50-mile Church echoes the octagonal theme, the magnificent Abbey Barn is now footpath which meanders through the while its interior boasts a lovely carved centrepiece of the Somerset Rural Life Levels on its journey from the Dorset timber ceiling, handiwork of the Museum. Other treasures include the border to the sea. On its way it passes medieval monks of Muchelney. George & Pilgrims Hotel, with its carved Burrow Mump, looking for all the There is, however, one little town stone façade and mullioned windows, world like a miniature Glastonbury that could only be here, a mystical and the equally august Tribunal, Tor, complete with an ancient chapel place where the boundaries between home to the Tourist Information on the summit. Another highlight 32 BEAUTIFUL BRITAIn / AUTUMN 2009 The Willows & Wetlands Visitor Centre omerset is the only place left in the village. And they still work by hand SBritain where withies are grown and as they always did.’ The centre contains woven into baskets and hurdles, fences an informative exhibition on local history and screens, planters and benches. The and wildlife and a fascinating museum with people who ply this trade have been doing all manner of willow artefacts from days so for generations; people like P.H. Coate gone by. When you’ve had your fill, you & Son, willow producers at Stoke St. can take a walk through the withy beds, Gregory since 1819. ‘Before the war, we look out across the Levels and reflect. provided employment for people from all over the county,’ says Anne Coate, who For more information about P.H. Coate & Son runs the family’s Willows & Wetlands and the Willows and Wetlands Visitor Centre, Visitor Centre. ‘Business has shrunk but visit www.englishwillowbaskets.co.uk or contact we still employ around 40 people from 01823 490249. Above Willow working is an ancient skill still thriving of Hambridge makes delicious smoked the natural environment and restore thanks to craftspeople such as those at P.H. Coate & Son. eels, caught locally but born 4000 wildlife habitats. Every season has Below The peaceful town of Langport on the east bank of miles away in the Sargasso Sea? its highlights. There are wildflowers the River Parrett. The River Parrett Trail follows the 50-mile The local arts and crafts scene is and birdsong in spring and summer, course of the river all the way down to the Bristol Channel. equally robust. The celebrated potter and atmospheric misty landscapes as John Leach lives here. So too does the autumn evenings draw in. With is Muchelney, whose ruined abbey, Serena de la Hey, creator of the the arrival of winter, when flooded medieval church and immaculately- Willow Man.
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