Grand Australia: Tasmania Extension October 21–28, 2019
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GRAND AUSTRALIA: TASMANIA EXTENSION OCTOBER 21–28, 2019 Black Currawong © Max Breckenridge LEADERS: MAX BRECKENRIDGE & KEVIN ZIMMER LIST COMPILED BY: MAX BRECKENRIDGE VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM We enjoyed wonderful weather, cuisine, accommodation and, most important, birding during our week- long extension to the beautiful isle of Tasmania. This tour really serves to round out the excellent four weeks spent on the mainland. The pace is more relaxed and the birding typically straightforward, provided the weather is kind! Unfortunately, strong winds during our time in Hobart meant that we could not make the trip by small aircraft to Southwest Tasmania and Melaleuca. Our small party arrived in Launceston on a perfect sunny day, and we were soon wandering the boardwalks of the Tamar Island Wetlands. Despite being more than 25 km from the coast, the Tamar River is very much tidal here, attracting a good variety of birds. Little Grassbirds were piping away, and showing briefly, while stately Great Egrets, White-faced Herons, and Royal Spoonbills showed well. European Goldfinches and Gray Fantails flitted overhead, and hundreds of mostly Chestnut Teal loafed on the mudflats, alongside smaller numbers of Gray Teal, Australian Shelduck, and Australasian Shoveler. Tamar also gave us our first of 12 Tasmanian endemics – the Tasmanian Nativehen, creeping warily along the water’s edge. After a wonderful round of chowder back in Launceston, we began on our way west towards Loongana. Before we got too far, we scanned some fields around Hadspen and soon had our first Cape Barren Geese. We pulled into the secluded Mountain Valley cabins with plenty of daylight left and a male Flame Robin singing his heart out. Our wonderful hosts, Len and Pat, showed us to our well-appointed rooms in a truly magical setting by a running river and with snow-capped mountains overhead. Before the main show that evening, we wandered around the grounds and adjoining forest scoring quickly with two male Pink Robins behaving wonderfully. We ticked along our endemics with Black-headed Honeyeater, Tasmanian Scrubwren, and Tasmanian Thornbill showing well. After a wonderful home-cooked meal, we retired to our rooms and waited for the star of the show to arrive. After several false starts with hungry Pademelons and Brush-tailed Possums, a Tasmanian Devil eventually showed itself! We had great views as two different animals snuck in to feed on some well-placed chicken legs. Some of us were lucky enough to glimpse a Tiger Quoll that made a brief appearance. A family of Cape Barren Geese (L) in fields near Hadspen, and a very cute male Pink Robin (R) at Mountain Valley © M Breckenridge. A morning wander around the grounds allowed for more views of male Flame and Scarlet robins, Shining Bronze-Cuckoo, and the addition of a striking Yellow-throated Honeyeater. Brush Bronzewings called away from concealed perches in the canopy. Departing Mountain Valley for Cradle Mountain took us along some steep back roads where an incidental stop yielded some good birding. A single Dusky Robin, one of the island’s scarcer endemics, shot across the road and was soon followed by a couple of begging youngsters giving great views. As we were watching the robins, an Olive Whistler sounded from the undergrowth, and soon we were enjoying uncharacteristically good views of this skulking songster. Onto Cradle Mountain where the tall wet forests give way to alpine grassland with scattered shrubs and Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Tasmania Extension, 2019 eucalypts. A hulking Black Currawong graced us with its presence at lunch – a bird which does very well for itself around the lodges at Cradle Mountain. Not to be forgotten, the mammals, which Tasmania is so well known for, soon put in a performance – with a wonderfully bold Echidna found scouring the garden beds right outside the lodge. Not far away, a Common Wombat also fed unconcernedly on the grass outside of reception. Later in the afternoon we enjoyed some quality birding along the Enchanted Walk where a pair of Scrubtits put on a good show, Crescent Honeyeaters came down from the canopy, and an awesome Yellow Wattlebird was located by its coughing/choking calls. Lake Lea was beautiful but fairly birdless until a bit of trawling with the tape excited a Striated Fieldwren into view! For what may be a streaky, brown bird, we marveled at the amazing views he gave as he sang from the top of a bush just feet away for many minutes. A somewhat oblivious Echidna (L) at Cradle Mountain Lodge, and a territorial Striated Fieldwren (R) from the alpine grasslands surrounding Lake Lea © M Breckenridge. We enjoyed a very pleasant day along the coast between Ulverstone and Burnie, visiting a variety of sites. Our first stop was the Tasmanian Arboretum where we enjoyed a birdy walk around the grounds, with the highlight being a pair of shy Spotless Crakes. The lake at the arboretum is well known for its resident Platypus, and they did not disappoint, with at least three individuals in view at once on the glassy surface. Along the coast near Ulverstone we found our first Pacific Gulls, dwarfing the nearby Silver Gulls, as well as both Pied and Sooty oystercatchers. At Picnic Point, we could see Black-faced Cormorants out on the rocks, with Red-capped Plovers allowing much closer views. Fern Glade Reserve proved to be a magical spot, with highlights being White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Golden Whistlers, and several Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos. A spot of sea watching at Burnie was worthwhile with great views of several White- capped Albatross just offshore, Australasian Gannet, and Great Crested Tern. After a fantastic dinner a short walk away, and once darkness had fallen, we were treated to close looks at 20 Little Penguins as they made their way ashore for the evening. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Tasmania Extension, 2019 A ridiculous Yellow Wattlebird (L) posing, and a Swift Parrot (R) pausing briefly while feeding, on Bruny Is © M Breckenridge. After a beautiful sunrise over Dove Lake below Cradle Mountain, we began the drive south to Hobart. On the outskirts of Hobart we stopped in at Gould’s Lagoon on the south bank of the Derwent River. We had a nice array of waterfowl, highlighted by good looks at up to 30 Freckled Ducks. In the trees nearby, a pair of Musk Lorikeets could be seen arguing with several Eastern Rosellas over the rights to a nest hollow. Our four-night stay in Hobart featured fantastic local cuisine and very comfortable accommodation overlooking Salamanca Wharf and the Derwent River. We enjoyed a great, if somewhat blustery day on Bruny Island. After disembarking the car ferry onto Bruny, it was just a short drive to an area of preserved forest where we soon locked onto our main target – a Forty-spotted Pardalote! Just a little further down the road we came across a small flock of critically endangered Swift Parrots actively feeding in flowering eucalypts and investigating nest hollows. We couldn’t have asked for a better start to the day! Heading towards South Bruny, we spent some time along the Cape Queen Elizabeth Track where we enjoyed close looks at Fan-tailed and Pallid cuckoos, as well as more Yellow Wattlebirds and yet another Echidna. After an excellent lunch at Hotel Bruny, we crossed the forested center of the island and found our last Tasmanian endemic in the form of several Strong- billed Honeyeaters in an area of tall forest. Scouring the beaches around Adventure Bay, we eventually struck gold with lovely, close looks at a dashing Hooded Plover on the white sands. Today we did a circuit of several birding sites in the vicinity of Hobart. Starting at Fern Glade below Mount Wellington, it was fairly quiet before we had some nice looks at a number of Tasmanian Scrubwrens. Nearby Waterworks Reserve finally gave us the desired views of Gray Currawong after several flybys. Dodging some rain, we headed north to Orielton Lagoon near Sorrell. Musk Ducks and Great Crested Grebes were scoped, as well as an uncommon Little Egret. At a different point on the shoreline we got excellent looks at several Eurasian Skylarks, a White-fronted Chat, and some distant Far Eastern Curlews before we beat a hasty retreat as it started to hail! In the afternoon we chased up a recent report of Blue-winged Parrots and were pleasantly surprised to find a small flock feeding in a seemingly non-descript patch of weeds. They were quite flighty, but after a few flushed views, we eventually got great looks at a perched male. That evening we completed a short bout of spotlighting near Hobart where Tasmanian Pademelons and Red-necked Wallabies proved abundant, and we found a single Tawny Frogmouth. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Tasmania Extension, 2019 A delightful Bassian Thrush preying on unsuspecting worms on South Bruny © M Breckenridge. Our final day in Tasmania was spent again on picturesque Bruny Island. We visited some of the same places from our previous trip, and some new ones. Highlights of the day were definitely the rugged views at Cape Bruny looking south towards the Southern Ocean, and walkaway views of a beautiful Bassian Thrush at nearby Jetty Beach. It was a wonderful, relaxed end to a memorable week on Australia’s southern outpost. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Tasmania Extension, 2019 Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain at sunrise – just one example of the beautiful scenery we enjoyed in Tasmania © M Breckenridge. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Tasmania Extension, 2019