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Gillian Thornton Enjoys a Guided Walking Holiday Across Southern England

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Gillian Thornton Enjoys a Guided Walking Holiday Across Southern England 62 Happy ramblers. Rambling On Gillian Thornton enjoys a guided walking holiday across southern England. the balcony when I visited, putting them tour of Salisbury. The present city sits in out of bounds to human visitors, but the the river valley below the Iron Age hill fort views to north and west were of Old Sarum or Old Salisbury, later used breathtaking. Immediately below, by the Romans and Normans, and now in imposing properties fringed Salisbury’s the care of English Heritage. Cathedral Close – the largest of its kind in In mediaeval times, the Clarendon Way England – and sheep grazed the tranquil linked Salisbury with Winchester, and water meadows beside the Avon. Beyond today the trail is dotted with reminders of WO of England’s most beautiful them, along my route to Winchester, the kings and courtiers. Not far out of cathedral cities, Salisbury and hillsides were splashed with the fresh Salisbury, we rounded the top of a gentle Winchester, stand less than 30 greens of summer. hill to find the ruins of Clarendon Palace, miles apart in the neighbouring Back down at ground level, I headed once a hunting lodge for Norman kings. counties of Wiltshire and for the cathedral chapter house to see A favourite residence of Henry II, THampshire. And between them runs the the Magna Carta, finest of the four Clarendon Palace was extended by the Clarendon Way, a marked walking trail remaining copies, and dropped in at Plantagenet kings into a great country that passes through gently undulating nearby Montpesson House, a delightful house, but today just a flint wall and countryside, pretty villages and historic Queen Anne mansion now owned by the foundations stand in a grassy field grazed sites. National Trust. by some inquisitive llamas. Information As someone who loves history, Over dinner at the Milford Hall Hotel, panels, however, gave us a fascinating heritage and hiking, I couldn’t resist the our comfortable base for the next four glimpse into the days of royal hunting. chance to lace up my boots and join a nights, I met up with Jenny, our friendly The route led us through the remains three-day guided walk with Ramblers walk leader, and a dozen fellow ramblers. of their favourite game forests where Holidays. Based in Salisbury, the This was my first experience of a guided carpets of bluebells spread beneath the adventure begins with a group dinner, walking holiday, but several of my beech trees. In the village of Pitton, we but first I planned to enjoy a unique companions were veterans, with stopped for coffee in the garden of the perspective on the route ahead – and get experience ranging from Herefordshire to Silver Plough, a favourite with Sir Edward in a little vertical fitness training into the the Himalayas. Heath who lived in Salisbury Cathedral bargain! Ramblers Holidays run guided trips all Close for many years. Depicted in one of John Constable’s over the world but a UK short break is a n o t most famous paintings – recently secured great choice for anyone unused to regular ITTON turned out to be just one of n r o for the nation by the Tate and four other distance walking or wanting to step down a succession of villages where we h T galleries – Salisbury Cathedral boasts the a gear. And being based in one friendly found quaint thatched cottages, n a P i tallest spire in England. And if you’ve a hotel near the town centre means you half-timbered properties and carefully l l i G head for heights, you can book a guided can opt out of a day if bad weather or tended gardens, not to mention pretty y b visit to the top of the tower for a bird’s blisters threaten your enjoyment. country churchyards, their headstones s h eye view – literally, in my case. We were to cover between 8½ and and carvings mottled with centuries of p a r Falcons were nesting on two sides of 10½ miles each day, starting with a short lichen. g o t Our first day ended at Middle o h P Winterslow and a minibus ride back to von. River A base. But some of us still had enough energy to stroll through the water meadows as dusk fell over the Avon and floodlights bathed Salisbury Cathedral in a warm golden glow. Next day, we picked up the trail where we had left off, crossing the county border into Hampshire on a broad cart track along the old Roman road. On one side, a patchwork of green wheat fields and yellow rape stretched to the horizon; Swan and cygnets. on the other, the wooded banks were white with wild garlic flowers. And against a backdrop of almost constant birdsong, we chatted companionably as we walked, stopping occasionally to enjoy a drink or snack from our rucksacks. Several people were holidaying alone, whilst others had come with a friend, but everybody mingled The People’s Friend 63 Salisbury Cathedral at dusk. together, united by a love of walking and travel the English countryside. After the pretty villages of Broughton and Houghton, the trail crossed over the Test, Hampshire’s longest chalk stream. Here we sat on the wooden bridge, feet dangling above the clear water, to eat picnics, watch trout jumping, and enjoy a swan family with its six fluffy cygnets. Last stop on day two was King’s Somborne, a village mentioned in the Domesday Book, and another royal favourite. Behind the church, an information board revealed the site of a palace once owned by John of Gaunt, fourth son of Edward II, father of Henry IV, and one of the most powerful men in 14th-century England. Following the way-marks for the Clarendon Way, we headed out of the village beside a stream dotted with mallard chicks, past postcard-pretty cottages and up a gentle hill. I was thrilled to spot a herd of fallow deer King Alfred the Great. grazing in a cornfield but probably rather For More Information more so than the farmer would have been! Then it was on to the minibus back Call 01707 331133 or visit to Salisbury before the final day’s leg into www.ramblersholidays.co.uk . Winchester. Destinations range from Barbados to Bulgaria, Greenland to Greece, FTER two overcast days with sunny including a wide range of UK spells – the perfect weather for options. walking – day three dawned grey For gentle strolls combined with A international culture and cuisine, and breezy with the threat of showers. Undeterred, we packed waterproofs and Ramblers’ new Adagio programme set off for the steady climb up Beacon offers the opportunity to “explore Hill for yet more panoramic views. the world gently”. The first shower fell as we arrived at Visit www.adagio.co.uk Farley Hill, where a monument or call 01707 386700 . commemorates a legendary leap into a Salisbury Cathedral: chalk pit by an 18th-century hunting www.salisburycathedral.org.uk . horse, which survived to win on the race course. Skirting a country park, we approached Green and pleasant! Winchester – ancient capital of England under Alfred the Great – stopping to admire the 12th-century Hospital of St Cross, England’s oldest almshouse. From there, it was just a short stroll through the watermeadows beside the River Itchen and the playing fields of Winchester College to Cathedral Close. And by early afternoon we were at the west door and journey’s end, with time left to explore the city. I headed inside the cathedral first, home to the famous Winchester Bible, largest and finest of all 12th-century English bibles. The many tombs include novelist Jane Austen and Bishop Stephen Gardiner, a key figure in Hilary Mantel’s award-winning Tudor novel “Wolf Hall”. The self-guided city walk – leaflet free from the Tourist Office – passes through centuries of history including the magnificent Great Hall, where Norman kings once dined and discussed affairs of state. Retail temptations abound, too, on the pretty High Street, or you could simply relax in the cathedral refectory over coffee and cake – after all, if you’ve Round table. arrived here on foot, you’ve earned it! I.
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