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5)& 2 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013 WWD.COM Barneys, Jay Z to Tackle Profiling THE BRIEFING BOX take this into my own hands with full power to rec- By LISA LOCKWOOD ommend, review and revise policies and guidelines IN TODAY’S WWD moving forward. I am choosing to take this head on.” NEW YORK — Barneys New York and Shawn “Jay He said that his team has been privy to the sta- Z” Carter said they are committed to launching the tus of the Barneys third-party consultant’s investi- BNY SCC Gallery and Collection for holiday and gation and has also contacted the attorney general’s have increased the percentage they will donate to office about the status of its investigation into both the Shawn Carter Foundation, which provides edu- Barneys and Macy’s, where other alleged racial cational opportunities to young people facing socio- profiling incidents have occurred. “These findings economic hardship. are not yet available,” he said. Under the new plan, 100 percent of all sales from Barneys said, “Barneys New York has zero toler- the BNY SCC Collection will benefit the foundation; ance for any form of discrimination. While all of our originally, 25 percent of sales were to go to the foun- investigations have been consistent in finding that dation. In addition, on Wednesday, when the collec- no Barneys New York employee was involved in ei- tion launches at Barneys — with design partners such ther of the deplorable situations concerning Trayon as Balenciaga, Balmain, Lanvin, Proenza Schouler Christian and Kayla Phillips, an issue exists in our in- and Rick Owens — it will donate 10 percent of all re- dustry, and we intend to be part of the solution. As we tail sales from Barneys stores in the US and barneys. have stated all along, if we learn any procedures or com, with a guarantee of raising at least $1 million. practices are not consistent with our zero-tolerance An image by Lisa Eisner from Bruce Weber’s Last month, Jay Z drew widespread criticism for policy, we will immediately take corrective action in- “All-American Volume Thirteen: Born Ready.” collaborating with the retailer after two African- cluding terminating those employees responsible.” For more on the book, see page 10 and WWD.com. American customers were detained by the New York A forum to address racial profiling and loss pre- Police Department after making expensive purchas- vention will be held here on Friday, organized by es at the store. Jay Z said he was going forward with the Retail Council of New York, and attended by ex- the collection, provided he is given a “leadership ecutives from Barneys, Macy’s, Bloomingale’s, Saks role” in addressing racial profiling issues. Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor and Neiman Marcus Barneys New York and Shawn “Jay Z” Carter said they are In a statement posted on his Web site, Jay Z wrote, Group, among others. committed to launching the BNY SCC Gallery and Collection for “While I await the findings of the Attorney General’s Barneys said it has worked closely with Rev. Al holiday and battling racial profiling. PAGE 2 office, I have agreed to move forward with the launch Sharpton; Marc Morial, chief executive officer of of BNY SCC collection under the condition that I the National Urban League, and other community Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc. may have withdrawn its offer to have a leadership role and seat on a council specifi- leaders to address these issues. buy rival The Men’s Wearhouse Inc., but the real battle may just cally convened to deal with the issue of racial pro- “Moving forward, Mr. Carter’s leadership in this be beginning. PAGE 2 filing. I am in a unique position to use my voice to process will further strengthen the industry’s ability affect change to this disturbing issue. The easy posi- to ensure that anyone who walks into a retail estab- Profiles of the candidates for Newsmaker of the Year; the tion would have been to walk away and leave policy lishment is treated equally and with respect,” said winner will be selected by WWD editors and revealed in a making to others hoping that someone addresses the Barneys. “We welcome Mr. Carter’s input and recom- special section on Dec. 16. PAGE 4 problem. I will not leave the outcome to others. I will mendations to our future policies and guidelines.”

Valentino, for the first time in its history, introduced a new collection outside of Paris on a runway in Shanghai. PAGE 9 Jos. A. Bank Withdraws MW Offer Daria Werbowy takes over from Miranda Kerr as the face of continue to encourage the board to take immediate Mango for its spring ad campaign. PAGE 9 By JEAN E. PALMIERI and VICKI M. YOUNG steps to complete its review of strategic options.…If the board fails to do so, our special meeting initiative Earnest Sewn has been acquired by denim veteran Anthony JOS. A. BANK CLOTHIERS INC. may have with- will give shareholders the tools to hold the board ac- Frym, who owns a China-based jeans production facility. PAGE 9 drawn its offer to buy rival The Men’s Wearhouse Inc., countable for its failed leadership.” but the real battle may just be beginning. Men’s Wearhouse did not respond to requests Uptown doyennes mounted the stairs at The Metropolitan On Friday morning, the retailer said it had termi- for comment. Museum of Art in Manhattan on Thursday night for the 10th nated its all-cash proposal to purchase the competing According to Ted D. Rosen, chair of the New annual Apollo Circle Fund for Art Conservation benefit. PAGE 10 men’s specialty store chain for $48 a share after its York corporate and securities practice for the law self-imposed Nov. 14 deadline came and went without firm Fox Rothschild, “The Men’s Wearhouse board Alexandre Mattiussi is collaborating with Bally on a capsule any communication between the two firms. viewed the offer as hostile, instead of working with line of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear for fall. PAGE 11 Robert Wildrick, Bank’s chairman, released a let- the Jos. A. Bank board to reach an agreement that ter that was sent to Douglas Ewert, Men’s Wearhouse’s is in the best interests of shareholders. In today’s When it comes to market opportunity for e-commerce, China chief executive officer, that read, “The MW board has environment, boards need to be careful of what occupies the number-one position according to a new global denied our request for limited due diligence and has deals they do and don’t do. study by A.T. Kearney. PAGE 12 failed to engage in any discussions whatsoever regard- “In addition to fighting off Jos. A. Bank, the Men’s ing our proposal. We are therefore terminating our Wearhouse board now has a fight in the nebulous Famed jeweler proposal in order to consider other strategic alterna- world called ‘breach of fiduciary duty.’ That’s a huge Joel Arthur Rosenthal, aka JAR, will receive tives which we have been investigating.” distraction to the management team,” he added. his first American-based retrospective with the Metropolitan Hedge fund Eminence Capital, which owns a 9.8 While Rosen believes Men’s Wearhouse Museum of Art’s latest exhibit, “Jewels by JAR.” PAGE 12 percent stake in MW, or nearly 4.7 million shares, fol- “botched” the process, he doesn’t believe that the lowed with a filing with the Securities and Exchange deal itself is over. ON WWD.COM Commission seeking from MW shareholders a “white According to Rosen, the MW board likely will re- agent” designation. The designation is for the pur- consider its options over the next few weeks. “A direc- pose of calling a special meeting to amend certain tor of a public company who has a stock trading at X EYE: Bruce Weber’s latest book consists of photos and provisions of the retailer’s bylaws. What it wants spe- and gets an offer at a premium [to that] really can’t essays on a number of subjects, most of which he didn’t cifically is to revert the bylaws to what they were be- ignore that offer,” he said. photograph. For more, see WWD.com. fore the most recent changes put through in the last With that scenario a distant possibility, Jos. A. month or so. A reversion would allow the removal of Bank is looking for greener pastures. CORRECTION board members, without cause, before the next an- Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo Inc., finan- nual meeting, and allow for a voting change in favor cial adviser to Bank, said the retailer is considering Gus Wenner is the editor of rollingstone.com. This was of a majority of shares instead of the more restrictive “three or four serious alternatives that fit within the incorrect in an article on page 11, Friday. requirement of two-thirds. strategy of our business.” He declined to provide any The solicitation is just for the “white agent” desig- details. “We have $400 million in cash and no debt,” TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS nation. The law in Texas, where MW is headquartered, he added. “And we want to put that money to work for [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. stipulates that holders of 10 percent of the shares en- our shareholders in terms of an acquisition.” COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. titled to vote are required in order to call a special Wildrick told WWD: “We’ve got a business to run, VOLUME 206, NO. 104. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, meeting of shareholders. Eminence is requesting that and we can’t sit and wait and wait. We’re starting to Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance a special meeting be held on Feb. 14 in New York to look at other things on our list.” But any acquisition Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: amend the bylaws, according to the regulatory filing. would have to “be accretive to shareholders. We’re S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, Neither Eminence nor any other shareholder cur- not just going to buy something to buy something. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax rently is calling for a change in the MW board member- We’ve got very tight standards, and if it won’t make Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North ship. Even if there is a successful special meeting that sense to do it, we won’t. ” Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please results in a reversion of the bylaws, a separate special Harrison said the company continues to be write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or meeting would have to be called to change MW’s board. interested in Men’s Wearhouse: “That’s still our inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine Ricky C. Sandler, ceo of Eminence, said, “In light first choice.” is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. of the board’s actions, we are forced to launch this The banker said Jos. A. Bank is waiting to “see if You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt initiative that will give shareholders the opportunity Eminence’s actions make Men’s Wearhouse rethink of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request to effect important corporate governance changes at its strategies. If they want to meet, we’re absolutely for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Men’s Wearhouse. In our view, the governance chang- available and we’re still willing to talk.” www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. es implemented last month by the board in response Wildrick also left the door open, saying in the let- Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at to the premium proposal made by Jos. A. Bank, in- ter to Ewert, “If, in the future, we are invited by the P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE cluding the imposition of a super-majority vote for Men’s Wearhouse board to discuss our acquisition of FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER shareholder amendments to the bylaws and imple- Men’s Wearhouse, or if circumstances were otherwise UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR mentation of a poison pill with a 10 percent thresh- to change, Jos. A. Bank may consider whether a new CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A old, are not in the best interests of shareholders.…We proposal to acquire Men’s Wearhouse is warranted.” SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ADVERTISEMENT THE DEAL

“Beauty brands need to stay innovative with strong and easy to understand differentiation if they want to be successful.”

ASK THE EXPERT Diane Miles, Operating Partner, TSG Consumer Partners

With more than 25 years of businesses, allowing me to bring unique skincare and makeup. Skincare brands are What advice would you give to experience building premier insight to TSG. developing products with makeup benefits entrepreneurs in the industry? skincare, makeup, and fragrance while makeup brands are developing Focus on innovation. Beauty brands need TSG Consumer Partners focuses on products with skincare benefits. This to stay innovative with strong and easy brands across the globe, Diane branded consumer goods, and within overlap is causing a huge trend toward to understand differentiation if they Miles serves as an advisor to the consumer goods there are two major the very natural look and multipurpose want to be successful. Make sure you beauty and personal care brands business drivers: innovation and products. are extremely careful and selective with within TSG’s portfolio. With an marketing. These two disciplines are distribution decisions. And lastly, grow unparalleled knowledge and an strengths of mine and I enjoy bringing In addition, there is a continuance of your infrastructure with your business; this experience to my work within the innovation within the anti-aging sector awe-inspiring passion, Diane don’t force yourself to go too fast at the company. with new powerful molecules that really expense of sustainability. brings a unique perspective to can change the skin. the investment firm and is a What lessons have you learned? Any closing thoughts or predictions? proven innovator and leader. First, that you can never spend enough What are Millennials looking for in Beauty will grow faster than the market cosmetics vs. Baby Boomers? time on innovation. Next, that in the does because even if you have a limited prestige sector particularly, the marketing When working with retailers that attract budget you can still afford great beauty How has your time and experience in the and unique positioning and story behind younger consumers, brands have to products. Plus, there is no shortage of beauty industry prepared you for your the product is becoming very important work to adapt to that consumer. This is fabulous products out there right now. I current role? as the market becomes increasingly why some brands have developed the am proud to be part of this fast moving In the beauty industry, everything is fragmented, complex, and competitive. good, better, best strategy. This strategy and imaginative industry! becoming increasingly multichannel, so Lastly, that consumers need to know why introduces products that have an an understanding of the digital space, they should buy a particular product and approachable price point and a different home shopping, infomercials, specialty how that product is different. functionality but still hold true to their retail stores, and department stores is brand DNA. Other brands are adapting crucial. Having worked with [so many What innovations do you see in to these trends and are innovating great] brands has given me a real depth of ingredients? [accordingly]. knowledge as to how to run multichannel There is a constant blurring between For more inFormation, visit tsgconsumer.com 4 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013 NEWSMAKER OF THE YEAR The Candidates

HERE, THE NAMES THAT DOMINATED THE HEADLINES IN 2013. THE WINNER, SELECTED BY WWD EDITORS, WILL BE PUBLISHED DEC. 16.

belong to a FTSE 100 company. business, but Richard Baker and bringing Saks and its off- same factory owners are also Come next year, Christopher has proven his mettle in retail. price sibling to Canada. The cited for ignoring the health and Bailey, Burberry’s chief creative With his deal earlier this deal might also bring Hudson’s safety of the workers, and fighting officer, will be in that rare month to purchase Saks Fifth Bay, which trades on the Toronto efforts to allow them to organize. position. In an unconventional Avenue for $3 billion, Baker is Stock Exchange, to Wall Street. But some put the ultimate blame move that sent the company’s a force to be reckoned with in — JEAN E. PALMIERI on the decision-makers — the share price down nearly 9 North American retailing. The big companies that choose to percent, Burberry Group said acquisition of Saks, for which he THE BANGLADESH WORKER manufacture in the country Bailey would succeed Angela outmaneuvered Neiman Marcus NEWS THIS YEAR: As they fell despite its poor track record of Ahrendts, who will become Group and KKR & Co., brings victim to the worst garment safety and labor abuses. senior vice president of retail and Baker’s cache of retail stores to industry disaster in history, “The black eye is deserved,” online stores at Apple, as chief 320 doors, including 179 full-line which was far from isolated, said Rick Helfenbein, president executive officer, while retaining specialty department stores, 72 the Bangladesh apparel worker of Luen Thai USA, speaking at a his current creative role. outlets and 69 home stores. suffered through what can only panel on the topic at the WWD Bailey, who worked at Gucci be described as a horrible year. CEO Summit. “I don’t think Delphine under Tom Ford — another Incidents such as the Rana there’s anybody…in retail or Arnault left-brain, right-brain designer Plaza building collapse in April manufacturing that intended — and was hired at Burberry that killed 1,132 people and the for this to happen. But it was by the former ceo, Rose Marie fire at Tazreen Fashions last the old expression, ‘It was an DELPHINE ARNAULT Bravo, has been instrumental November in which 112 workers accident waiting to happen.’” TITLE: EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT in reshaping the brand and perished were the worst of For veteran labor rights COMPANY: LVMH MOËT HENNESSY selling it to a younger, more a series of deadly disasters advocate Charles Kernaghan, LOUIS VUITTON international audience. that created an outcry inside the foundation for change has to NEWS THIS YEAR: Long a behind- Bailey last week began to and outside the industry and come from allowing the industry the-scenes power player at the lay out his management vision, country for action to change the to unionize. He said, “There luxury group her family controls, naming longtime colleague Luc global supply chain system. has to be the ability for unions Delphine Arnault emerged this Goidadin chief design officer The Western retailers and to form across the developing year as a crucial talent scout for to oversee all design activities brands that made Bangladesh an world. Give [workers] a chance LVMH as the competition for hot under Bailey’s direction. He export powerhouse for apparel to have unions and we’ll see a designers intensified. split the group into three reacted by creating two separate transformation. It has to come The daughter of luxury titan pillars: design, product and Richard plans — the Accord on Fire and from the workers, but it also has Bernard Arnault was intricately communication; regions, Baker Building Safety in Bangladesh, to come from the retailers. You involved in the recruitment of and operations and finance. led by the IndustriALL Global can’t just go there as bystanders.” Nicolas Ghesquière as artistic Existing executives will assume Union and UNI Global Union — ARTHUR FRIEDMAN director of women’s collections additional responsibilities. As Baker began his career and including 100 mostly at Louis Vuitton, the hiring of a result, Bailey will have fewer working with his father, Robert, European companies and a leather goods designer Darren direct reports than Ahrendts. in the family business — handful of U.S. ones, and the Spaziani for Vuitton, the majority National Realty & Development North American-based Alliance acquisition of British footwear Corp., one of the largest private for Bangladesh Worker Safety, designer firm Nicholas Kirkwood, owners of shopping centers in which includes most major U.S. and the minority investment in the country. In 2006, he took retailers. Companies have also rising London fashion star J.W. his first plunge into the retail received criticism for generally Anderson, who was also handed end of the business, buying not issuing compensation for the design reins at Loewe. Lord & Taylor from Federated the injured and the families of The 38-year-old Arnault, who Department Stores. Two years those who perished, and the had been Dior’s deputy managing later, he acquired Hudson’s Bay Alliance has been negatively IMAGES director since 2008, in September Co., the world’s oldest retailer cited for not including unions or became second-in-command at with roots that date back to the worker groups. Both plans aim Vuitton and was put in charge fur trade in the 1600s. to improve working conditions of all the house’s product- Baker has invested in both with funding for factory related activities. Given that the nameplates, spending $40 improvements and setting new ZAMAN/AFP/GETTY cash-cow brand has estimated million to renovate the L&T standards for health and safety, Fabrizio UZ revenues of 7.4 billion euros, flagship alone, and started and inspections. Freda MUNIR or about $10 billion at current Christopher opening stores again after a There’s also been plenty BY exchange, the appointment puts Bailey hiatus of a decade. Last year, of finger pointing over who or her in one of the most pivotal the company added units in what is to blame. There’s the FABRIZIO FREDA positions in the industry. New Hampshire and Yonkers, government corruption that TITLE: PRESIDENT AND CHIEF A friendly yet discrete Bailey’s appointment comes at N.Y., and a Boca Raton, Fla., allowed for building codes to EXECUTIVE OFFICER BANGLADESH executive, Arnault rarely gives a delicate time for the ambitious store opened in October, not be enforced and for factory COMPANY: THE ESTÉE LAUDER COS. interviews, leaving the spotlight company, which has recently after an absence of 11 years. owners also being among the NEWS THIS YEAR: Fabrizio Freda AQUINO; to the brand and its creative brought its beauty business in- Hudson’s Bay too has been political power brokers. Those has had a landmark year at the JOHN

director. She called Spaziani, house — with a few stumbles given a facelift under Baker’s Estée Lauder Cos., smashing BY hired away from Proenza in doing so, is winding down its tutelage, with the addition of through the $10 billion mark

Schouler to spearhead new Japanese license, grappling with Topshop and Topman shops, the in sales and capping off a four- BAKER lines of “very high-end” leather uneven demand in China and bolstering of its private brand year restructuring plan, while goods, “one of the most talented negotiating the dynamic between portfolio and the updating of launching Tory Burch’s first designers of his generation.” online and brick-and-mortar its branded assortment. He also fragrance and expanding many EICHNER; Likewise, Arnault described sales. “We have always seen art has identified his handpicked of Lauder’s existing brands STEVE

Kirkwood’s talent for shoe and commerce not as opposing team, which encompasses with new products. BY design as exceptional, adding, “I forces, but as two sides to the Bonnie Brooks as vice chairman Freda has helped drive Lauder am especially impressed with his same coin,” he said last week. and Liz Rodbell as president to record sales and profitability, BAILEY commitment to innovation and “There is tremendous potential of Hudson’s Bay Co., Marigay building an additional $3 craftsmanship.” — MILES SOCHA and fuel in the tank.” McKee as president of Saks and billion in sales in the last four — SAMANTHA CONTI Jennifer de Winter as its chief years, tripling operating profits, FEUGÈRE; CHRISTOPHER BAILEY merchandising officer. increasing the company’s TITLE: CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER RICHARD BAKER Now that the Saks acquisition operating margin to 15 percent STÉPHANE

COMPANY: BURBERRY GROUP TITLE: CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF has been completed, Baker can from 7 percent and increasing BY NEWS THIS YEAR: It’s unusual for EXECUTIVE OFFICER execute an even more extensive dividends 162 percent. Lauder’s fashion designers to occupy both COMPANY: HUDSON’S BAY CO. game plan, which includes a market capitalization has risen to PHOTO corner offices simultaneously, NEWS THIS YEAR: He may have broader rollout of L&T outlets Workers protesting for better labor almost $26 billion this year from especially when those offices cut his teeth in the real estate under the Saks Off 5th umbrella $6 billion in June 2009.

conditions in Bangladesh. ARNAULT WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013 5 WWD.COM

“We have always been a sale in 2012 of T-shirts featuring a way within the long-established across the chain is growing; growth company, but over the the singer’s image from the “We ethos of Marc Jacobs. the spotlight is back on the past four years our mission Found Love” music video. Over “Maybe,” he told WWD, Herald Square flagship, where was to make that growth more the summer, a U.K. court ruled “there is a whole world of a $400 million top-to-bottom profitable and sustainable, in Rihanna’s favor, although it possibility open to a paradigm renovation is moving forward, and we clearly accomplished has not given its final word on — something that isn’t clichéd.” and investments in technology that goal,” Freda said during potential costs or damages to be — BRIDGET FOLEY and omnichannel initiatives are the company’s earnings call in paid and Topshop is appealing on the rise. He’s a big believer August. “Having established the decision. — S.C. A.G. LAFLEY in mobile, and he has supported a firm foundation, we have an TITLE: CHAIRMAN, PRESIDENT the development of macys. even better position today to MARC JACOBS AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER com, which has emerged as a focus on our top-line growth with TITLE: DESIGNER COMPANY: PROCTER & GAMBLE CO. leading Web site. In each of the added advantage of having COMPANY: MARC JACOBS NEWS THIS YEAR: After several the last three years, Macy’s has greater advertising firepower to NEWS THIS YEAR: The carousel was lackluster years marked by racked up $1.2 billion in sales unite our brands and promote black. The fountain, escalators, market-share losses in key increases, on average. the latest innovations.” elevator and fantastical categories, including beauty care, Lundgren also has enabled That innovation has carried feathered showgirl headdresses P&G turned to a familiar face. In Mark Lee Bloomingdale’s to diversify its over to the product level. In were all black. So was the clock, May, the $84 billion consumer footprint to a more specialized addition to launches from reimagined from Louis Vuitton’s products giant reinstalled A.G. format in a handful of locations, new partners, such as Burch’s fall 2012 train-themed show. At Lafley as chairman, president to the transformation of the entire to venture overseas with its first signature debut fragrance, of the stroke of 10 a.m. on Oct. 2, and chief executive officer, Co-op fleet, including the possible international location in Dubai, which Bloomingdale’s sold an its hands ticked backward for ousting Bob McDonald. elimination of the nameplate from and continue to expand the brand estimated $45,000 to $50,000 several minutes, after which The move marked the second freestanding stores. Co-op stores domestically. Bloomingdale’s worth on the day it bowed, old Marc Jacobs’ brilliant tenure at time P&G called on Lafley to at 2151 Broadway in New York could open additional overseas favorites such as Clinique’s Vuitton was over. relieve a struggling ceo. In 2000, and The Grove in Los Angeles stores, and Macy’s one day might 45-year-old Dramatically Although neither conceived he returned as a temporary were re-branded as simply take the leap abroad, according Different Moisturizing Lotion nor intended as his last show replacement for Durk Jager, Barneys New York. to Lundgren. have been updated with the for the house, Jacobs’ spring who was unseated after only 18 In addition, several latest technologies. extravaganza for Louis Vuitton months. Lafley stayed on as ceo floors underwent complete — JULIE NAUGHTON put stunning punctuation on for nearly a decade. renovations in 2013 to create his 16-year reign as creative The 66-year-old’s current fresh environments. Barneys did director. With unfailing tour is seen as more temporary a major revamp of its cosmetics commitment to fashion, Jacobs — and Wall Street analysts and fragrance floors in the transformed Vuitton from said one of his most important Madison Avenue flagship and a tony, dusty luggage giant tasks will be to find a successor. Beverly Hills store. into a vibrant fashion brand They are also looking to the Barneys’ flagship also with major resonance around turnaround maverick to fix the completely renovated its the globe. Along the way, he beauty business, which has lost sixth-floor men’s department, pioneered the fashion-art fusion ground to rivals such as L’Oréal. creating a new home for classic by conspiring boldly with some Less than a month after his European brands including of the art world’s major names return, Lafley reorganized P&G’s Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni, — Stephen Sprouse, Richard executive ranks, regrouping its Isaia, Kiton, Giorgio Armani and Prince, Takashi Murakami — in global business units into four Uman, as well as an expanded now legendary collaborations. sectors. As part of the changes, made-to-measure department. Terry J. About that clock, counting Deborah Henretta, an executive The retailer also made a Lundgren Sir backward, one could read into some industry observers have big splash when it forged a Philip it the symbolism of going back speculated could be a possible partnership with Shawn “Jay Green to a singular focus on the Marc successor to Lafley, was named Z” Carter for a high-wattage Most recently, he defended Jacobs International business. group president of Global promotion, dubbed “A New York Macy’s against accusations Just days before the Vuitton Beauty, overseeing beauty care, Holiday,” that has the musician of a racial profiling incident, show, Jacobs, Robert Duffy and retail and professional hair care collaborating on a range of and spent some time in court SIR PHILIP GREEN Bernard Arnault confirmed the and color and prestige. merchandise with top designers in Macy’s case against Martha TITLE: CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER move, noting the necessity of and influential indie brands to Stewart Living Omnimedia COMPANY: ARCADIA GROUP the designer and his longtime a fashion collection of limited- Inc. and J.C. Penney Co. Inc. NEWS THIS YEAR: Sir Philip partner to concentrate solely on A.G. Lafley edition holiday products. The dispute began last winter Green has worked hard and fast that business in preparation for Just as Barneys began to ramp with Macy’s accusing Stewart to pump up his Topshop and an initial public offering. up for the Jay Z promotion came of breach of contract for Topman retail empire over the Less than one month before, one of the retailer’s lowest points selling part of her company, as past year. In the meantime, he Jacobs presented a collection of the year. Barneys became well as certain categories of also managed to woo Kate Moss for his namesake brand that embroiled in a controversy merchandise, to Penney’s, but is back into his fashionable stable. offered yet another example sparked by the questioning of moving toward a final resolution. In the U.S., Green is in of why he has remained on the two black shoppers by New York Penney’s and MSLO late last negotiations to open four or cutting edge of the creative Police Department officers after month revised their deal, with five additional Topshop stores side of fashion for more than they made expensive purchases Penney’s returning its stake in

HNER to enlarge his U.S. fleet of four 25 years. Dark Victoriana met at the Madison Avenue flagship. MSLO and the two firms focusing freestanding locations, while surfwear on a post-catastrophe Protests, a press conference on categories Macy’s doesn’t sell. the Topshop and Topman beach set in a show that left and an investigation by New — SHARON EDELSON collaboration with Nordstrom his audience mesmerized and York Attorney General Eric T. is zooming ahead — what began debating everything from his Schneiderman all took up some of MEMBERS OF CONGRESS with 14 doors in September 2012 mood (“happy as can be”) to Lee’s time this fall. Macy’s Inc. also NEWS THIS YEAR: Members has blossomed into 42 Topshop the weighty fabrics (“fashion was criticized by black shoppers of Congress, led by House and 18 Topman locations. people are fashion people”) to Lafley plans to get P&G’s for alleged racial profiling. Both Republicans, brought the federal Nordstrom is considering a whether the sweltering heat in beauty business growing again stores denied the allegations. government to a standstill for further 10 units for spring, and the Lexington Avenue Armory with a bevy of new product The controversy continues, 16 days in October and pushed another spate of doors for late fall. had been purposeful (“suffering initiatives, slated to roll out from however, and Barneys the nation to the brink of a The U.S. isn’t the only market wasn’t my intention”). December to March. They include executives will be among those potentially catastrophic debt that Green is cracking. Galeries How exactly Jacobs will yet-another revamp of the $3 from stores including Macy’s default, sending shock waves Lafayette opened France’s first channel his intense aesthetic into billion Pantene brand in January. Inc., Bloomingdale’s, Neiman through the U.S. economy and Topshop corner at its Boulevard making the company IPO-ready At the company’s shareholders Marcus Group, Lord & Taylor putting foreign creditors on alert. Haussmann flagship in October, from a product standpoint he’s meeting in October, where many and Saks Fifth Avenue that will At its height, the federal while in June a 14,000-square- not yet certain, but expects to find greeted the ceo with “welcome gather on Nov. 22 at a forum in government shutdown furloughed foot Hong Kong flagship bowed back,” Lafley said P&G will focus New York cohosted by the Retail some 800,000 federal workers, on Queen’s Road Central, on the group’s core businesses, Council of New York State and turned out the lights at federal Topshop’s first China unit. In which include the leading, most the New York Metropolitan agencies, cut off crucial federal addition, Green has talked profitable brands, categories Retail Association to discuss aid and shuttered national parks about plans to expand into Italy and countries. He noted the racial profiling, loss prevention from coast to coast. The political and Thailand. company’s portfolio includes and store operations. brinkmanship and threat of a Green will launch the Moss 25 brands with annual sales of — LISA LOCKWOOD default on U.S. Treasury notes collection that will appear in more than $1 billion each, and 15 took a toll on the economy, April at all of Topshop’s 40 brands with sales within the $500 TERRY J. LUNDGREN sending consumer confidence markets simultaneously. On top million to $1 billion range. TITLE: CHAIRMAN, PRESIDENT spiraling and forcing some of all of that, he is aiming to — MOLLY PRIOR AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER economic forecasting firms to expand his other retail banners COMPANY: MACY’S INC. revise downward their holiday — Miss Selfridge, Dorothy MARK LEE NEWS THIS YEAR: Department stores, sales predictions. Perkins, Wallis and Evans — TITLE: CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER once regarded as dinosaurs, have Economists at IHS Global into international markets. COMPANY: BARNEYS NEW YORK new life and a lot of that is due Insight said the shutdown cost But more than Topshop NEWS THIS YEAR: It was a year to Terry J. Lundgren, the high- the economy an estimated expansion plans placed Green filled with some incredible highs profile Macy’s chief. $3.1 billion in gross domestic in the headlines. He was also at and a few lows for Mark Lee. Under his stewardship, product and cut its fourth- the center of an ongoing legal Marc Among the highlights was the the offering at many Macy’s quarter outlook for GDP growth battle with Rihanna, who took Jacobs re-branding of two of Barneys’ locations has a localized to 1.6 percent from 2.2 percent.

GREEN PHOTO BY ZACH LIPP; JACOBS BY LEXIE MORELAND; LAFLEY BY FRANCIS SPECKER/BLOOMBERG VIA GETTY IMAGES; LUNDGREN BY STEVE EIC VIA GETTY BY IMAGES; LUNDGREN SPECKER/BLOOMBERG LEXIE MORELAND; FRANCIS LAFLEY ZACH LIPP; JACOBS BY BY GREEN PHOTO BY him to court following Topshop’s largest Co-op units as a prelude component; exclusive product {Continued on page 6} 6 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013 WWD.COM

the made-up word Kering as a also had a hand in buying,” he NEWSMAKER OF THE YEAR wink to his Breton roots — “ker” said. “So we haven’t always means house or home — and to been that successful. Maybe connote how the firm takes care we’ve got to cull our bad The Candidates of its brands that include Gucci, investments quicker.” Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen The markets began buzzing and Puma, its 33,400 employees in the wake of the statement, and the environment. and many industry sources The revamped group’s tag line said that Richemont’s entire is “Empowering Imagination,” soft luxury division — a mixed a phrase Kering management bag of assets acquired over invoked in September when it a long period and with no took an estimated 40 percent stake clear strategy — was for sale. in Altuzarra and unveiled plans Richemont swiftly denied that to accelerate its development. it was shopping either Net-a- Pinault certainly moved quickly porter or Chloé, and then, last to catapult Kane’s profile, scoring week, Rupert resurfaced from a site on Mount Street in London’s his sabbatical to quash any Mayfair area for the Scottish Miuccia Prada more rumors. In an internal designer’s first boutique. memo to Richemont staff Demonstrating his group’s obtained by WWD, he said, “As commitment to ecology and mystery with hints of delicacy the controlling shareholder, corporate social responsibility, and danger. They seemed trying it is my pleasure to confirm to Pinault unveiled new to escape the past in order to you that I have no intention of headquarters near Vincenzo, gain control of the future. disposing of any maison. We Italy, for Bottega Veneta, billed as Spring saw a sea change of also have no intention of taking House Speaker John Boehner and GOP the first in fashion and luxury to the sort typical in Prada’s world. any of our maisons public leaders discuss the budget impasse. received the LEED, or Leadership Inspired by Diego Rivera and through an IPO.” in Energy and Environmental other Mexican muralists, she — SAMANTHA CONTI Design, certification at the commissioned contemporary Platinum level. — MILES SOCHA artists to paint murals featuring HEDI SLIMANE {Continued from page 5} who monitor Philo’s every women’s portraits. Her only TITLE: DESIGNER While the ports remained creation and are now no doubt mandate: obvious strength. She COMPANY: SAINT LAURENT open, critical negotiations over looking for tribal prints and was so taken by the result that NEWS THIS YEAR: His influence two of the largest trade deals — primary colors to fill their she reproduced the work on the is everywhere. Hedi Slimane’s the Trans-Pacific Partnership spring deliveries. clothes, the result a veritable grunge-fueled sophomore between the U.S. and 11 Along with Miuccia Prada army of she-warriors who had collection for Saint Laurent countries and the Transatlantic and Rei Kawakubo, Philo is one conquered every demon en ignited his brand rejuvenation Trade and Investment of the most influential designers route to conquering the world. effort and also made its mark Partnership between the U.S. working today, much to the They wore fabulous, flamboyant on everything from high-street and European Union stalled pleasure of her employers at clothes that fused high-chic with chains packed to the rafters or slowed and Administration LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis cartoon clarity. “You need to be with lumberjack plaids and officials were not accessible for Vuitton. In fact, when rumblings fighting…” Prada explained. “If skinny leathers this fall, to meetings with industry trade of Marc Jacobs’ eventual exit they see you, they listen.” Once designer advertising, suddenly groups — even President Obama from Louis Vuitton began, again Prada made it impossible all moody and black-and-white. had to cancel a trip to the Asia- Philo’s name was reportedly not to look and listen. Slimane also set a new Pacific Economic Cooperation at the top of Bernard Arnault’s — BRIDGET FOLEY template for the all-knowing, summit and the TPP leaders’ wish list to fill the top spot — all-doing modern creative meeting in Bali, Indonesia, she knows a thing or two about JOHANN RUPERT director by accruing wider François-Henri during the impasse. The trade hit handbags. The tandem TITLE: EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN powers following the exit over Pinault talks for both accords have since rumor was that Philo wasn’t COMPANY: COMPAGNIE FINANCIÈRE the summer of chief executive been put back on track. interested in the job. RICHEMONT SA Lawmakers eventually came She does not have a NEWS THIS YEAR: Johann Rupert, together and passed legislation reputation for being a roll-with- MIUCCIA PRADA the main shareholder of that averted a default and the-punches type. Consider her TITLE: LEAD DESIGNER Richemont, sent a shock through reopened the government. The stance on resort, which last COMPANY: PRADA the markets when he revealed legislation continued funding season was shown to the press NEWS THIS YEAR: Even by her last spring that he planned to for federal agencies until Jan. under the strict mandate of no industry-leading standards, take a year’s sabbatical, with the 15 and raised the nation’s debt reviews, no tweets, no phone 2013 proved stellar, as Miuccia aim of enjoying life a little more. ceiling through Feb. 7. When photos. The strategy (one first Prada delivered two of the most But that wasn’t all the news the dust had settled, President tried and since abandoned by marveled-over and dissected the famously outspoken South Obama called the impasse a Tom Ford) was to hold off on collections of the year. In African luxury chief had in store. “self-inflicted crisis that set our all press until closer to the addition, she did what previously During an annual conference economy back. — KRISTI ELLIS retail season — because Philo seemed near impossible — with analysts to discuss is supposedly one of the most she helped to costume an the company’s year-end PHOEBE PHILO copied designers in the world. unimaginably glamorous, results, Rupert, 63, dropped TITLE: CREATIVE DIRECTOR — JESSICA IREDALE high-profile period film — Baz a bombshell in response to a COMPANY: CÉLINE Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby” question about his appetite for NEWS THIS YEAR: Just when FRANÇOIS-HENRI PINAULT — using clothes from current and future acquisitions. Rupert, everyone thought they had TITLE: CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF recent collections. whose group owns luxury Hedi HARARI/CONTRASTO/REDUX her pegged as the Madame EXECUTIVE OFFICER But then, that is part of brands such as Cartier, Van Slimane COMPANY: KERING GUIDO of Minimalism, Phoebe Philo Prada’s enduring brilliance. Cleef & Arpels, Panerai, BY abruptly changed course. Her NEWS THIS YEAR: The transformation Over the years, she has Dunhill, Chloé and Net-a-porter,

powerful spring collection was is essentially complete. This year, made liberal use of historic said he had no immediate officer Paul Deneve, who PRADA not about her familiar purity François-Henri Pinault gave references, sometimes to the intention of buying anything joined Apple. While Francesca and pragmatism for the modern his family-controlled empire a degree that a dress — or 40 — more, and even regretted some Bellettini, an executive MAÎTRE; woman, but serious optic verve new name, a new raison d’être can transfer into an idealized of his past purchases director from sister brand expressed through startling and a fresh complexion, topping take on a time long gone. Yet her “You know, we talk about Bottega Veneta, took over as tribal graphics and colorful up its luxury holdings with work remains consummately Van Cleef and about my baby ceo, Slimane was handed the DOMINIQUE

brush strokes. It was a curve majority stakes in Italian jeweler daring and modern in its Panerai, but we don’t talk responsibility to “supervise all BY ball for the trend mongerers Pomellato and the London fashion shattering of conventions and, about a load of rubbish that I strategic projects for the brand.”

house Christopher Kane, plus a yes, in its proselytizing. Prada The California-based PINAULT minority investment in New York is first and foremost a fashion Frenchman already boasted designer Joseph Altuzarra. designer — she’ll correct one of the most commanding Kering became the new someone in a heartbeat should controls of a major fashion EICHNER; handle for the retail-to-luxury they suggest otherwise. But label, from photographing her thought process swings ad campaigns and designing STEVE conglomerate previously BY known as PPR and before intellectual and political, stores to vetting the press

that as Pinault-Printemps- elements she streams into the discount list. While his fashion PHILO Redoute. By year-end, Kering is body of work that often muses shows have been somewhat

expected to shed cataloguer La on women’s roles in society. divisive, Slimane’s rock ’n’ IMAGES; Redoute, the last vestige of the Prada’s fabulous fall and roll-fueled makeover of one group’s previous roots in retail, spring collections did just that, of French fashion’s stalwart completing Pinault’s plan to make to very different effect. Fall was names is showing results. Kering a fashion and accessories a cinematic reverie that she Saint Laurent logged a 7.2 WONG/GETTY

specialist in the luxury and sport- said was about “raw elegance” percent increase in the third ALEX

lifestyle segments. and the “romance of old- quarter, with the ready-to- BY Pinault, whose father started fashioned glamour,” delivered wear category and Japan both Phoebe out in timber trading in the Sixties with a Forties vibe. The women Johann vaulting 41 percent. Parent PHOTO Philo only to construct the world’s who roamed the dark, intriguing Rupert company Kering noted high

third-largest luxury group, chose set radiated an aura of feminine {Continued on page 8} BOEHNER We Congratulate NewsmakerALL NOMINEES FOR of theYear INCLUDING OUR GOVERNOR AND CEO Richard Baker 8 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013

future remains uncertain. But as some service enhancements, NEWSMAKER OF THE YEAR Ullman is considered among are being perpetuated, the smartest, most capable according to Ullman. and competitive executives — DAVID MOIN in retailing, cool-headed and The Candidates analytical with a impressive ALEXANDER WANG résumé including being TITLE: CREATIVE DIRECTOR a former Macy’s ceo, and COMPANY: ALEXANDER WANG various top jobs at LVMH Moët AND BALENCIAGA Hennessy Louis Vuitton and its NEWS THIS YEAR: Just about a {Continued from page 6} MYRON “MIKE” ULLMAN 3RD DFS Group subsidiary. month after Nicolas Ghesquière volumes of editorial helped TITLE: CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER At Penney’s, he’s been exited Balenciaga, Alexander boost the brand’s momentum. COMPANY: J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. moving rapidly to undo the Wang, then 28, was named his Also this year, Saint Laurent NEWS THIS YEAR: In a strange twist damage by restoring much of successor. The media loved started rolling out a sleek of fate, Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd what Johnson discarded, like painting Wang as an unlikely marble-driven boutique design returned to Penney’s last April as coupons, price promoting and candidate for the job, zeroing conceived floor to ceiling by chief executive officer after being core private brands such as in on him as a T-shirt designer Alexander Wang Slimane in cities including removed from the job in 2011 St. John’s Bay and Ambrielle, assuming the reins at a storied Paris, New York, Hong Kong, and replaced by Ron Johnson, and even bringing back the old French couture house, which Shanghai and Berlin. Already, whose visionary yet ill-conceived logo. Upon his return to the Ghesquière had revived as a clear on one point: His role as it’s been mimicked by several reinvention strategy put Penney’s Plano, Tex.-based department bastion of experimental, highly creative director of Balenciaga is fashion chains. on the verge of collapse. store chain, Ullman quickly influential fashion during his to fuel the commercial ship. Arriving at the house in 2012, Amid huge losses and drew up a laundry list of 30 15-year tenure. “Right off the bat, it wasn’t like Slimane immediately set out to sales declines, Penney’s things that needed fixing. In In reality, Wang designs my first meetings were just on place his fashions in a broader his progress report 200 days much more than T-shirts for designing the collection,” Wang cultural context, forging ties Myron “Mike” into his second stint, he said his own collection, which he said before his fall show. He with rock stars like Courtney Ullman 3Rd two-thirds of the things on the launched in 2005 and which recalled a discussion with chief Love, Beck and Kim Gordon, list have been fixed. Shoring quickly became a driving force executive officer Isabelle Guichot whom he photographed for up the financing and the in the contemporary market. “to kind of understand what’s campaigns earlier this year. confidence of the vendor and His dynamic street aesthetic very important for business and They and others feature under financial community, while connected with a passionate where we needed to go.” the “music project” section of wooing back customers who customer, putting the company One of the first destinations CHINSEE YSL’s Web site. had abandoned Penney’s for in rapid growth mode over the is retail: The first Balenciaga

Slimane also made headlines other stores, has topped the last two years. Its 16th store store under Wang’s creative GEORGE this year by cutting off business agenda. Signs of improvement opened in Tokyo last month. vision opened last week, the BY relations with Colette after the are already visible, with sales If there was a blatant New York flagship at 148 Mercer famous Paris retailer sold a trends improving. commercial mandate behind Street. The store, designed in WANG parody T-shirt that winked to Ullman has acknowledged Wang’s appointment, he handled stately green marble, limestone the designer’s streamlining of that not everything that it deftly in his first collection chrome and cracked resin, is AQUINO; the brand name: “Ain’t Laurent Johnson developed was bad for fall 2013, which was smart, light years away from the Space- JOHN

Without Yves.” While it raised the for the business. Investments well-designed and neither too Age obsession of Ghesquière. BY designer’s ire, it also telegraphed in certain new shops like Joe reverential to the house codes “One of the main things I

that people are riveted by every Fresh, and improvements in the nor too symbiotic with his own wanted to convey was a sense of PHOTO move Slimane makes. store environment for visual more casual body of work. From permanence,” Wang said. — MILES SOCHA — JESSICA IREDALE clarity and ambience, as well the beginning, he was crystal ULLMAN

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www.milbergfactors.com ©2013 Milberg Factors, Inc. WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013 9 WWD.COM Valentino’s Shanghai Special of need and market evolution, Designs were done in red as By LARA FARRAR but at the same time we want a tribute to Valentino’s heritage to take steps in a very consis- yet with a multitude of shades SHANGHAI — In a bid to cap- tent way. We want to create a to illustrate an evolution to the ture a greater share of Chinese modern but timeless business. future. Red is interpreted both luxury consumers, Valentino, We think that it is crucial that chromatically and metaphori- for the first time in the Italian people see this haute couture cally, removing it from tradition- fashion house’s history, intro- heritage and the quality and ally glamorous connotations. duced a new collection out- the cost behind it.” Flowers, lace, studs and camou- side of Paris, on a runway set A relative latecomer flage were combined in new per- against a backdrop of futuristic to China’s luxury market, mutations. The show featured 82 skyscrapers and a river filled Valentino opened its first stores looks, of which 22 were couture. with barges. here in 2007. The brand now has “We have not one tone but The fashion event, held 18 retail locations in Greater different tones to show the dif- Thursday evening in an orb- China, and according to Sassi, ferent attitudes of women,” shaped space with floor-to-ceil- more emphasis will be placed Chiuri said. “In the past, ing glass in a cruise terminal on upgrading existing retail in- Valentino only had one vision — on Shanghai’s Huangpu River, frastructure to cater to consum- a glamorous brand for the red coincided with the opening ers who increasingly care about carpet. We want to show you can of a 7,535-square-foot flagship an unparalleled in-store expe- have red in different attitudes in IAPM, a recently opened rience as a key component of in your personal life but also in luxury mall on Huaihai Road, luxury shopping. Valentino will daytime in a simple way.” an upscale shopping street in open five stores next year, the Perhaps above all the col- the heart of the city. On Friday, executive said. lection stresses individuality, the brand hosted a party at the Sassi said for 2013 sales from encouraging clients to find their Looks from the new Lane Crawford store here China and Hong Kong will make own unique path to Valentino. show in Shanghai. where it introduced “Objects up 30 percent of Valentino’s The designers say they see their of Couture,” its book of spe- global revenues, and that from work as a connection between cially commissioned photogra- 2012 to 2013, the luxury brand two cultures. “It could have phy that showcases Valentino’s doubled its performance in been easier for us to repeat the Maria Grazia legacy of accessories design. terms of revenue from China. Paris October collection, but we Chiuri and The fashion show was followed He declined to disclose sales live in a connected world and Pierpaolo by an after party with an opera figures from China. wanted to communicate some- Piccioli singer. Celebrity guests included Sassi said in China, as in thing new,” Chiuri said. Chinese actresses Zhang Ziyi other markets, haute couture “It is a collection about and Carina Lau. “is a very minor percentage” identity,” Piccioli said. “We “This is quite a major event of Valentino’s total business. want to talk about the identity for us,” Stefano Sassi, presi- Accessories make up 50 per- of our brand and our personal dent and chief executive of- cent of retail sales in China vision about our identity in our ficer of Valentino SpA, said. and remain particularly popu- manifesto. It is also an identity “China is becoming so impor- lar among newer customers. for women who can be differ- tant for us, and customers are But more consumers are pur- ent at the same time. Every evolving so quickly. I think chasing ready-to-wear collec- woman is not only one way. they deserve a presentation of tions, he said. They can be romantic, the frag- a collection done greenfield. The new collection, called ile, the dangerous.” Not one already presented in Collection Shanghai 2013, show- The designers said the col- Paris. Done specifically to be cased a multifaceted Valentino lection is a mix of couture and presented here.” with the aim of catering to the rock ’n’ roll, evoking an edgy The backdrop of Thursday’s multiple, and sometimes com- attitude that enabled them to event offered the ideal juxtapo- plex, dimensions of Chinese speak about their vision of red. sition for what Valentino aimed taste. Sassi, as well as creative “We decided to test ourselves to communicate to the Chinese directors Maria Grazia Chiuri in a show that could be a mani- — the Space-Age skyscrapers a and Pierpaolo Piccioli, said the festo of our vision of style,” vision of the future contrasted collection was not designed for Chiuri said. “Red is like a logo A close- by old, dimly lit flat-bottomed Chinese consumers but for a in Valentino, but in our personal up look. boats that offered a tangible global clientele. They described vision, we do not have one tone, glimpse of a China in the past. it as a “manifesto” of fashion but different tones to give dif- For Valentino, the future mixes — a seasonless collection that ferent attitudes. We believe in with legacy via modern rein- mixes prêt-à-porter, accessories trends and fashion, but we want- carnations of its classic haute and haute couture. ed to do something that is time- couture, expanding markets in The collection will be sold less but to show our personal Asia and an adoption of the digi- in Valentino flagships world- side of the brand.” tal technologies to remind con- wide and be available come “It is a red manifesto collec- sumers globally of its glamorous April. A capsule collection tion,” Piccioli said. “Because of Italian heritage. from the show is already on course red is part of our brand, “The Chinese consumer, my sale at the new Valentino flag- but it is also part of Chinese cul- LOWEN feeling is that they are moving ship in Shanghai. Prices range ture. It is the color of China in our

towards more selective brands from 6,000 yuan, or about $980, imagination. It is like China in Stefano JACKSON and looking for something more to 250,000 yuan, or $41,000, for our dreams — not something you Sassi and BY exclusive,” the ceo said. “We rtw. Haute couture is priced really know, but we were inspired Du Juan

can be the answer to this kind upon request. by the idea we had of China.” PHOTOS

MEMO PAD Anthony Frym Buys Earnest Sewn Trademarks

DARIA’S TURN: Mango has Preparatory in 2005 and designer of Sinclair Denim another familiar face: 29-year- By DAVID LIPKE beginning in 2010. Drake was previously creative old model Daria Werbowy, who director at the workwear label Smith’s American. takes over from Miranda Kerr. EARNEST SEWN has been acquired by Anthony Born in France, Frym got his start in the in- “Beyond her impressive Frym, a denim veteran who owns a China-based dustry as the founder and designer of a Paris- career, in which she has been jeans production facility. Frym is in the process based jeans brand called New London, which he the face of the best brands in of establishing new wash and sewing facilities launched in 1996 and sold to the European division fashion and cosmetics, Daria Daria in Los Angeles to manufacture Earnest Sewn, of surfwear maker O’Neill in 2002. Today, he is the perfectly represents the values Werbowy which will relaunch for fall 2014. owner of a full-package denim manufacturing com- of Mango. She is a young girl Frym bought only the Earnest Sewn trade- pany near Guangzhou, China, called The Lab of with a strong personality and hippie-inspired embroidery, marks from the previous owner, Benoit Briere, Denim USA, which produces for clients including sense of style,” said Ninona tribal looks and indie rock- and none of the company’s operations or retail Sandro, Iro, Zadig & Voltaire and El Corte Inglés. Vila, MNG by Mango’s public inspired outfits. Werbowy is leases. Two Earnest Sewn stores currently open Frym said the Earnest Sewn business has relations manager. in good company. Mango’s in New York’s Meatpacking and Lower East Side been in decline over the past years and there is The spring campaign with past celebrity models include neighborhoods will shutter by the end of the no wholesale business to speak of. “For me, it Werbowy breaks in March Penélope Cruz, Milla Jovovich, Lizzy year. A new store operated by Frym will open in still has a very strong American brand image,” fashion magazines, and was Jagger, Karolina Kurkova, Naomi New York next year. he said of his strategy to revive the business. photographed in Lanzarote on Campbell, Eva Herzigova, Inés Frym has hired Vincent Dean Flumiani as Earnest Sewn was originally founded by Scott the Canary Islands by Josh Olins. Sastre, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Earnest Sewn’s creative director and Melanie Morrison, Eleanor Ylvisaker and Lori Jacobs in The images show Werbowy Turlington and Diane Kruger. Drake as brand director. Flumiani was previ- 2004. The trio exited the company at various in prints, flowing silhouettes, — DAVID MOIN ously the founder of a men’s label called Caulfield points in 2008 and 2009. 10 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013

has cost him clients, but he doesn’t care. thing. He maintains that when he Bruce Weber Weber describes the way that the “All- photographed the nude groups that American” series of books is put together. initially appeared in Calvin Klein ads, Ready His production team, which includes his they ended up being shot that way wife, photo agent Nan Bush, meet and because the clothes hadn’t arrived. The decide what to include. He says that, of clothes eventually did turn up, and he the group, he tends to be the “loosest ended up shooting the models clothed, about” the All-American label: “Oh, he’s too, but Klein preferred the nude shots. a French photographer, but he’s been to Weber says he gives acting and dance the United States. That works.” classes to the groups of models he uses in Or Not campaigns for firms such as Abercrombie For this particular book, he was alerted to Homeboy Industries by & Fitch, images that have again been meeting with Wendy Stark, whose father, criticized for their overt sexuality. But BRUCE WEBER, admired for his the celebrated producer Ray, started the the young people often end up making glamorous celebrity portraits and charity, which helps young men who are enduring friendships from the shoots. groundbreaking, controversial ad in gangs start on a different path and “My life doesn’t begin and end with campaigns, famously started in the which includes a bakery, a silk-screen photographing celebrities,” Weber business as a male model. “But I wasn’t shop and other enterprises. “He was an adds. He notes that he just got back very good,” he recalls. “I was amazing man, an important producer from a visit to Detroit, which he found never on time.” and great art collector who fascinating, and says Only after he began FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE decided to help men and that he could easily have spent much longer there. studying at New York WWD.com/eye. IANNACCONE women who have just gotten University’s Film School and out of prison,” notes Weber He adds that he usually working with photographers of Ray Stark. ends up photographing such as Richard Avedon, Diane THOMAS When he decided to run people at the beginning or BY Arbus and William Connors did he find the Windsor-Spyer piece, the ends of their careers.

something he could take seriously. They PHOTO he was presented with a Older artists, he says, are were mentors to him, he says. treasure trove of photos of very professional, and Weber, who is notably warm and the two beautiful women “they’re so happy to be charismatic, has had a much more together at different points getting some attention.” varied career than most photographers in their lives. Another Older performers and and has directed several films and chapter in the book is about artists are more respected published 23 books. His latest book Micky Wolfson, a collector of in Europe, he observes, “All-American Volume Thirteen: Born art and objects who created and that’s why many of Ready: A Journal by Bruce Weber” his own museum in Miami. The cover of “All- them move there. (teNeues) consists of photos and essays “It has a great shop,” Weber American Volume Weber made his 1988 film, on a number of subjects, most of which says. “I love museum shops.” Thirteen: Born Ready.” “Let’s Get Lost,” after spending

he didn’t photograph, from Homeboy WEBER One of his films, 2004’s years as a major fan of the jazz Industries to Edie Windsor’s long “A Letter to True,” is about one of his trumpeter Chet Baker. One snowy day in

relationship with her eventual spouse, BRUCE beloved dogs. Weber recalls visiting Manhattan, he saw a man in a convertible

Thea Spyer. Windsor, of course, went BY Japan to promote the book without True, with the top down. It was Baker. He went to the Supreme Court to challenge the and seeing the city plastered with huge to see him and told him that he was eager Defense of Marriage law that prevented PHOTO images of the dog, which made him miss to photograph him and make a film about her from inheriting Spyer’s estate An image from the book. him badly. He also remembers that, him. “He was amazing,” Weber recalls. without paying taxes — and won. during the part of the publicity jaunt in “Because I had that camera, I was able to During one of his first jobs, Weber a drink. Weber says that this incident which True traveled with him, journalists see him again. I think it’s more difficult was on location in Florida, and the taught him to always stand up for himself. would interview the dog, asking questions for a painter who asks to make someone’s client — who was producing a catalogue One way that he does this is by and noting down his answers. At one portrait, because it takes so long.” — insisted that he had to have a smoke refusing to shoot photographs digitally. screening, “True was surrounded by The photographer notes that certain bomb, that all real photographers had Instead, he continues to use a Pentax and women; it was as if he was Elvis Presley.” very handsome men are jealous of them. He said he didn’t have one. The film. He does not want art directors and Weber has received a lot of criticism the photographic relationship he has man continued to insist, and even though technicians going to his shoots and telling for the heightened sexuality of some with other good-looking men. It seems Weber had no other clients, he went him what to do as they try to tinker with of his advertising photography. He that they don’t like sharing that sort of to slug him. Later, the catalogue man the photos. He also prefers the results points out that desiring the subject attention with others of their kind. came back and apologized, and they had that film gives him. This intransigence of a photograph is a good, not a bad, — LORNA KOSKI

sheer. But [the Maiyet team] was motorcycle jacket, admitted like, ‘You’ll be fine. It’s inside.’” that, as a Canadian, she doesn’t Do-Gooders’ Night Further downtown, in the celebrate the holiday either. Meatpacking District, Theory “I’m actually in the middle AT THE Metropolitan Kristy Caylor. “The exhibition is and Jimmy Choo hosted their of renovating my house up in

Museum of Art in Manhattan about the ways in which design own parties. At Theory’s Westchester,” she said. RUDD on Thursday night, uptown has influence across continents, flagship on Thursday night, the A few blocks north at No. 8, doyennes mounted the stairs for and the way that the skills label and Jonathan Adler feted Jimmy Choo creative director SCOTT the 10th annual Apollo Circle of artisans have been valued their collaborations Sandra Choi toasted her BY Fund for Art Conservation and recognized. That really with the Red Campaign, 2014 cruise collection, benefit. This year’s go-around encapsulates everything that which was founded by which was inspired by OTHERS was themed “Behind the Maiyet is about.” For instance, Bono to raise money to eye cocktails. ALL Seams,” a nod to the museum’s this fall the company will open fight AIDS. “I love the ice

current exhibition, “Interwoven a factory in Varanasi, India “This is a beautiful sculpture situation EICHNER; Globe: The Worldwide Textile that will offer silk weavers and thing that we are able to in the entrance. It’s

Trade, 1500-1800,” and was craftsmen a place to work. support Red. We have produced insane,” gushed Harley Viera- STEVE sponsored by the socially- Caylor and van Zyl stood sets of products that when Newton, the DJ for the night. The Harley Viera- BY conscious indie label Maiyet. in the center of the museum’s purchased, provide medication venue was decked out with ice Newton at the “When the Met called, the Vélez Blanco Patio to corral to people,” Olivier Theyskens said. cubelike displays featuring the Jimmy Choo party. PHOTO fit was so natural,” said Paul van guests for a Champagne toast. The designer was chatting collection’s stilettos and brightly Zyl, the brand’s cofounder with “It’s really beautiful to look out with Constance Jablonski, Coco colored clutches “frozen” within. MAMET at this audience and see a much Rocha and Juliana Schurig about Choi made her way through the holiday baking with her larger group than we would’ve their Thanksgiving plans, or a crowd that included Nicky family in England. “I’m assigned seen two years ago when there lack thereof. Hilton, Kate Foley, Peter Brant Jr., dessert,” she said. “I do it with were about six of us in a closet “It’s a shame, but you don’t Jamie Chung, Hannah Bronfman and my sister so we have to come up trying to make Maiyet a reality,” really have this holiday in Mia Moretti. Thanksgiving was with something together.” Caylor offered. Jessica Joffe, Claire Europe,” he said. also on their mind. — KRISTI GARCED AND Distenfeld and Ashley Wick preened Rocha, in a black Theory Viera-Newton plans to spend TATIANA HAYAKAWA for photographers during cocktail hour, though shoddy cell phone service on the patio meant multiple failed Instagram attempts. Soon guests slipped into the Temple of Dendur in the museum’s Sackler Wing for cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. The crowd shimmied to the tunes of DJ Brendan Fallis, a mishmash of Ace of Base, Michael Jackson and Zosia Mamet Fleetwood Mac. Hannah at the Apollo “I feel very much like a Bronfman and Circle Fund princess,” said Zosia Mamet, Coco Rocha at Sandra Choi benefit. wearing a white ruffled Maiyet the Theory store. at Theory. gown. “I thought it was a little bit WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013 11 WWD.COM

her ice skates, but she was in a festive mood nonetheless, decked in an all-white FASHION SCOOPS ensemble and a coat with metallic swirls. “I just came out to see my friends singing tonight. And I wanted to see all of this — Somerset House is so beautiful.” BALLY MOVES: Paris-based designer circular window. A cascading crystal Coach whipped up a winter Alexandre Mattiussi is collaborating with chandelier descends two stories into wonderland for its debut sponsorship of Bally on a capsule range of men’s and the entranceway ensconced by a the annual event at Somerset House. The women’s ready-to-wear for fall, with circular staircase. cobblestone entryway leading into the the former launching during men’s The designer focused on a jewel- 18th-century courtyard on The Strand was fashion week in Milan in January, toned color scheme and incorporated covered in fake snow, while the pathway according to industry sources. A Bally shine wherever possible, such as was lined with fir trees. The 40-feet-high spokesman declined to comment. with beaded wallpaper and mirrored Coach Christmas tree stood next to the ice WWD first reported that Bally was in furniture. But the suite does not only rink, and was decorated with gilded stars, talks with Mattiussi on July 8, following mimic the jewels, it will feature them lights and silver Coach tags, while the the departure of the brand’s creative as well. The designer installed several Handbags from Hackney Colliery brass band played live directors Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz. permanent display cases that will Fairchild Baldwin. tunes. Floating bubbles in the shape of Last year, Bally quietly named Manuel rotate pieces of Katz’s own collection. handbags were cast into the sky. Frei, a former editor of German GQ, as “I wanted it to feel like a jewel suite, A WARM WELCOME: “We’re so happy to Scott joined guests including Philip its creative chief, and he is understood not a jewelry store,” said Katz. Asked have you in the store — I love your Treacy, Alice Temperley, Henry Holland, Poppy to be spearheading the search for new if there was any concern for a high-end bags,” enthused Rose Clark, executive vice Delevingne, Lily Cole and Tallulah Harlech. designers to work with the brand. smash-and-grab, Katz noted, “Well, we president of Stanley Korshak in Dallas, While some guests gathered around the Mattiussi showed his men’s wear do have their credit cards on file.” as she introduced herself to Jill Fairchild tree with their cocktails and canapés, collection Ami in Paris in July, and that — ROXANNE ROBINSON and Karen Baldwin, the designing duo of others hit the ice. The Big Pink, a British same month was named winner of the Fairchild Baldwin, who held a two-day electronic rock band, performed — with 24th Andam Fashion Award. The award ON BOARD: Earlier this month, the trunk show at the store Thursday and Mary Charteris singing — later in the includes a purchase order from the Council of Fashion Designers of Friday. “I love your little mini,” Clark evening. — LORELEI MARFIL Canadian department store Hudson’s America elected three new members continued, her eyes sweeping over the Bay and two seasons of mentoring to its board. They are Ashley Olsen, handbag display. “It is so cute. Adorable. RIDING INTO TOWN: Ralph Lauren held by Italian fashion tycoon Renzo Rosso, Deborah Lloyd and Prabal Gurung. The And I love the tortoise handle.” a Pink Pony fund-raiser in the ornate plus a cash prize of 250,000 euros, or trio is succeeding Yeohlee Teng, Kenneth The veteran merchant had rococo halls of Madrid’s $322,005. — WWD STAFF Cole and Isabel Toledo, who now assume instantly keyed into the detail FOR MORE downtown casino Thursday. Emeritus Board Member status. that Fairchild and Baldwin SCOOPS, SEE While the designer and his EYES ON EYEWEAR: Kering is putting a — MARC KARIMZADEH envision as the collection’s family didn’t attend, the new focus on its eyewear businesses signature. WWD.com. gala dinner included heavy — and has tapped Roberto Vedovotto, NIGHT LIGHT: Azzedine Alaïa was among “We want the bags to be financial hitters and a bevy of formerly chief executive officer at guests at a dinner on Thursday at recognized by the handle,” pedigreed socialites in Ralph Safilo Group SpA, who is to start work the Château de Versailles held by Fairchild said. “It’s all about the round Lauren finery. “Spanish society is at Kering effective today, WWD has Swarovski to celebrate the chandelier handle. We’re trying to work it into the very generous; it will open its doors and learned. designed by Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, luggage, too.” give, but it doesn’t necessarily understand Kering president and ceo François- which illuminates the Gabriel The Dallas trip was one of several the the importance of an event like this,” Henri Pinault has tasked Vedovotto with staircase. It is the first permanent company has scheduled over the next few said Ishtar Espejo, director of Aladina, a reviewing the French group’s eyewear weeks. “We were in L.A., and we’re going foundation that benefits children with strategy across all brands in order to Palm Beach and Mitchells Richards cancer. Architect Alberto Marcos agreed: “I to optimize and further develop the Carla Sozzani in Greenwich,” Fairchild said. “When believe people in Spain are very rooted to business. His remit is to coordinate and Azzedine someone asks me where I live, I want to the idea of helping their neighbor; it’s a Kering’s efforts across its luxury Alaïa. say, ‘On a plane.’” cultural thing. We have a network here of and sport-lifestyle brands, which At least next time they’re in Dallas families helping other families.” include Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, they’ll get a home-cooked meal. “We’ll Spanish fur designer and retailer Boucheron, Puma and Volcom. have a dinner party next time you’re Elena Benarroch talked up the success of An Italian national, Vedovotto here,” said Regen Horchow Fearon, whose her online fur sales, especially in China, worked at Morgan Stanley for 11 years father, cataloguer-turned-Broadway Russia and the U.S. in London and Milan before joining producer Roger Horchow, is friends with Also on the guest list were María Zurita, Safilo in 2002. Fairchild. — HOLLY HABER niece of King Juan Carlos; “It” girl Alejandra He left the eyewear firm in 2006 de Rojas; Olivia de Borbón, daughter of to work at investment firms Lehman ICE, ICE BABY: “No, I didn’t bring my Beatriz de Hardenberg von Furstenberg and the Brothers and Nomura before rejoining skates! They are still getting polished,” Duke of Seville; accessories designer Laura Safilo in 2009. — MILES SOCHA said L’Wren Scott at the Coach-sponsored Pons, and Eighties muse to Giorgio Armani, outdoor party to open the ice skating Antonia Dell’Atte. TEXTILE WIZ: Raf Simons is crossing rink at Somerset House in London this The Pink Pony collection launched textile boundaries. The Belgian week. It may have been five years since exclusively at El Corte Inglés in designer is to unveil a collection for the statuesque designer strapped on September. — BARBARA BARKER the Danish fabric-maker in February, WWD has learned. The presentation will be held mid-February in London, with fabrics hitting stores in the spring. — LAURE GUILBAULT

MARTIN’S MANOR: Martin Katz is thinking outside the box. The jewelry box, that is. The Beverly Hills-based fine jeweler has been commissioned For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. by the New York Palace hotel to FEUGÈRE custom design a suite as part of its recent renovation. Katz inaugurated STÉPHANE

it last week with a party featuring BY performances by The Four Tenors, Spaces David Foster and Babyface. contemporary artwork at the palace. “This chandelier has been quite a SOZZANI COMMERCIAL challenge on several levels,” said Babyface HOTEL; REAL ESTATE Ronan Bouroullec of the creation SALES REP performs at measuring more than 40 feet and Established, profitable, & growing Ladies contemporary fashion Martin Katz’s PALACE exponentially costume jewelry manufacturer seeks an experienced weighing 1,100 pounds. Suspended brand, looking for strategic Sales representative in the US. We party. make quality goods, deliver on time, YORK investor/partner. in loops from the chateau’s ceiling, it have great checkout performance and comprises three interlacing strands, Serious inquiries only. always have the right product. Must NEW Showrooms & Lofts Exceptional Opportunity. have good connections with each made of hundreds of Swarovski BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS 713.777.3311 majors/retail chains in the US. THE Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Great Compensation. Elements illuminated by LED lights. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 [email protected]

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IMAGES Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- said Nadja Swarovski, who was wearing an on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ SALES REP’S WANTED Alexander McQueen dress. stores. If you sell to fashion accessory Experienced rep w/ existing clients or buyers, email: [email protected]. strong leads in the eyewear industry. Alaïa, who has been collecting Fashion readers, Sun readers & Sun Bouroullec creations for several Market Research Analyst- for ladies glasses. Major & specialty stores. apparel co. Use data to help create E-mail resume to years, was accompanied by his BOWERS/GETTY marketing campaigns. BA + 5 yrs exp [email protected] reqd. Send resume: Gayatex, Inc. 68 E Website www.roccooriginals.com longtime friend Carla Sozzani. The Flagler St, Miami, FL 33131 Phone : 210-694-0840

designer’s retrospective runs at Paris’ DONALD

Katz incorporated many of his Palais Galliera until Jan. 26, and he BY jewelry designs for the $25,000-a-night has other exhibitions on tap — at space: His circle pendant necklace Moscow’s Pushkin Museum and in PHOTO (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] motif became a dome on a light Rome, and possibly in Philadelphia fixture and a glass etching in a and New York. — L.G. BABYFACE 12 WwD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2013 WWD.COM

China Tops E-commerce Opportunity Study Australia, Canada, the U.S. and intense competition and the for online retailers, a “race to card and many don’t trust the By Lisa Lockwood Nordic and Western European kinds of products consumers the bottom” pricing mental- security of online transactions,

countries are Established and will buy online. “Understanding ity dominates in a competitive according to the study. Most on- WHEN IT COMES TO market Growing markets, and Japan, these similarities will enable market, according to the study. line retailers offer a cash-on- opportunity for e-commerce, South Korea, Singapore, Hong retailers to devise online strate- Online retailers such as Taobao delivery option. China occupies the number-one Kong and New Zealand are gies that are effective and scal- and Tmall own about half of e- n Japan generates $52 billion in position, followed by Japan, able,” said Ben-Shabat. commerce traffic in China. online sales. It has 100 million the U.S., the U.K. and South It appears that retailers in n Brazil is a budding online re- Internet users and 75 million Korea, according to a new glob- TOP E-COMMERCE developing markets’’ worry less tail giant at $11 billion in size. online buyers. Over the next al e-commerce study by A.T. about multichannel integration The market is expected to grow five years, Japan’s online retail Kearney, a global management MARKET and more about addressing the at a compound annual growth market is projected to reach $80 consulting firm. OPPORTUNITIES AND barriers to online purchasing, rate of 20 percent over the next billion. Rakuten and Amazon The Global Retail ONLINE SALES such as financial and logisti- five years, the study found. The together account for 40 percent E-Commerce Index ranks the top cal infrastructure and cultural country has 90 million Internet market share. countries in online retail, based norms, the study found. Overall, users, 57 percent of whom buy n The U.S. has the world’s 1. China $64 billion on a 0 to 100 point scale. A.T. the report showed that retail- online, and has the largest so- largest online retail market at Kearney looked at 186 countries 2. Japan $52 billion ers are offering unusual deliv- cial networking base in Latin $177 billion. It is expected to to determine the ranking of the 3. United States $177 billion ery options to enhance online America. With only 45 percent double by 2017, according to A.T. Kearney. About 250 million top 30 countries. The index evalu- 4. United Kingdom $48 billion shopping convenience. For ex- of Brazilians having Internet ac- ates countries according to online ample, U.K. grocer Asda is test- cess, as rural customers get on- Americans use the Web, and market size, technology adoption 5. South Korea $23.7 billion ing the use of collection lockers line, sales are projected to rise. 177 million frequently purchase and consumer behavior, infra- Source: A.T. Kearney’s 2013 Global Retail E-Commerce Index outside its stores so that online The upcoming 2014 World Cup goods online. More than 450 re- structure and growth potential. consumers don’t have to race and 2016 Olympic Games are tailers account for 70 percent of “The top 30 countries are sales, led by Amazon (17 percent ready to explode in e-com- Digital DNA markets, where market share) and eBay (6 per- merce,” said Hana Ben-Shabat, there are high technology adop- cent). Five of the top 10 online a partner in the retail practice tion rates, advanced infrastruc- The top 30 countries are ready retailers in the U.S. — Apple, of A.T. Kearney and coauthor of tures and innovative new ways Wal-Mart, Sears, Best Buy and the study. “We are at a tipping of shopping online. to explode in e-commerce. We are Macy’s — are multichannel play- point,” she said. What she found “Consumers in developing ers, the study found. most interesting in the study “is markets are fast adopting be- n France’s $26 billion retail that there are almost no bar- haviors similar to those in more at a tipping point. market has 50 million Internet riers anymore for anything.” developed countries,” added users. The market is expected For example, in countries such Mike Moriarty, an A.T. Kearney — Hana Ben-Shabat, A.T. Kearney to grow to $36 billion by 2017. as Russia where there are few partner and coauthor of the Many French shoppers consid- credit cards, e-commerce sites study. Over the past five years, to the supermarket to pick up expected to propel online retail er the Web the best source for are offering “cash and deliv- online retail has grown at a their “click-and-collect” orders sales, driving the online retail “value deals.” ery,” where the company col- 17 percent compound annual before the store closes. market to $28 billion by 2017. n The U.K.’s retail market, lects cash upon delivery. She growth rate, with growth partic- Among the study’s highlights: n Russia’s online market is $10 worth $48 billion today, is ex- said some of the emerging mar- ularly strong in Latin America n China’s $64 billion online re- billion and is projected to have pected to grow to $73 billion by kets don’t have to go through (27 percent) and Asia-Pacific (25 tail market will explode over 18 percent compound annual 2017. It offers both multichannel the same learning curve as de- percent), according to the study. the next five years to $271 bil- growth through 2018. Moscow retailers and pure-play online veloped markets, nor do they Interestingly, India didn’t make lion, due to infrastructure im- and St. Petersburg generate sellers. Amazon leads the U.K.’s have to wait for their brick-and- the top 30 because of its low provements, increased Internet three-quarters of Russia’s on- online retail market (16 percent mortar stores to develop to be Internet penetration and signifi- access for rural regions, rising line retail transactions, but market share), followed by Tesco active online. cant infrastructure constraints. wealth and customers’ growing as smaller cities gain Internet (9 percent) and eBay (8 percent). The study uncovered In areas where there are predisposition to spend. China access, sales ’’will increase. n Germany’s $27 billion online three very distinct kinds of obvious differences between has the world’s largest popu- Russia’s financial infrastruc- retail market is expected to grow e-commerce markets: Next developing and developed mar- lation (1.36 billion), the most ture has hampered online 12 percent yearly through 2017, Generation; Established and kets, the study illustrates key Internet users (517 million) and growth, the study said. Cash is faster than any other country in Growing, and Digital DNA. similarities such as consumer the most online shoppers (220 the dominant payment method Western Europe. Amazon and China, Brazil and Russia lead sophistication, the creativity million), according to the study. in the country, as only one in Otto own nearly half of the online the Next Generation Markets; and ingenuity of online sellers, Since profits are hard to achieve three households has a credit market, according to the study. Jane Adlin Talks ‘Jewels by JAR’ Famed jeweler Joel Arthur studio, located just off Place way through,” said Adlin. “He’s Rosenthal — better known by Vendôme in the city’s 1st ar- not overly talkative, but if you art-world devotees as JAR — rondissement, has no storefront ask the right questions and he will receive his first American- or identifying markings, and is can answer them, it’s so much based retrospective with the not open to the public. The art- clearer. He’s charming and Metropolitan Museum of Art’s ist himself is notoriously press- smart. It’s like a gestalt — you latest exhibit, “Jewels by JAR.” shy (so much so that he won’t see the person, you see the jew- Officially open to the public even be at the press preview elry and you see all the connec- from Wednesday through March on Monday morning). Despite tions between the artist and the 9, the exhibition also marks the the preconceived persona, finished piece.” museum’s first show devoted to Rosenthal has been instrumen- Rosenthal has been on hand a contemporary artist of gems. tal to the exhibition’s creation. at the museum — a former Taking a break from last- “He’s been helpful all the childhood haunt for the artist minute show preparation, exhi- bition curator Jane Adlin said the concept of a JAR retrospec- tive was brought to the Costume Earrings by JAR. Institute more than four years ago by a friend of the jeweler’s, but was ultimately turned down — for the final three weeks lead- in sapphires, fire opals, rubies, as, true to its name, the Institute ing up to the exhibition’s debut. amethyst, garnets and diamonds focuses solely on costume jew- In addition to working on the (1994) to a modern pair of em- elry. The idea was then brought show, Rosenthal has maintained erald and oriental pearl drop to the museum’s Department of his day job, crafting creations earrings (2011). Rosenthal’s ac- Modern and Contemporary Art, that will be showcased in the claimed pavé technique is a who jumped at the opportunity. exhibition. common thread throughout the “We all just thought he was The exhibition will feature expansive exhibition. a master of his art,” Adlin said. more than 400 pieces, a major- “That’s the question every- “I can compare him to any of ity of which are on loan from one has been asking,” Aldin the contemporary artists that private owners all around the said, when prompted to high- ris Pa

we give one-man or one-woman world. The Louvre’s Musée des light her favorite piece. “Not , shows to.” Arts Décoratifs and the house of only do I not have one favorite R JA

Born in New York City, JAR lent additional pieces. The piece, but I tried to make a top of Rosenthal, a Harvard museum declined to comment 10 list in my head and I couldn’t University graduate, has lived Butterfly on the estimated value of the stop at 10. I would be shocked

in Paris since 1966, developing Brooch borrowed gems. if anyone could have a favorite Courtesy an exclusive — and to some, by JAR. Jewels on display vary from piece. I wouldn’t believe them.”

reclusive — reputation. His a colorful butterfly brooch done — LAUREN MCCARTHY photos

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