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THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE to YOSEMITE BIG WALL CLIMBING Contents SUPERTOPOS Chris McNamara THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO YOSEMITE BIG WALL CLIMBING Contents Acknowledgements 9 Supertopos El Capitan 36 Preface 10 The Players – Part I 109 Mission 11 Supertopos cont’d. Supertopo.com 11 Lost Arrow Spire tip 112 Introduction 13 Washington Column 114 Drive times 13 Half Dome 126 Monthly precipitation 14 Leaning Tower 134 Climber Impacts 16 The Players – Part II 141 By Mark Fincher Appendix Mystery of Two Icy Deaths 24 Wall tips 144 by Tyson Hausdoerffer Big wall cuisine 145 Suggested reading list 146 Lessons of a Fatal Plunge 28 Routes by rating 147 by Tyson Hausdoerffer Route index 148 Ethics: Taking Care of The Big Stone 18 By Steve Grossman Ratings 19 Staying Alive 22 By John Dill Camp 4: Ground Zero for American Wall Climbing 33 Cam sizes by brand 34 Understanding the maps 35 Yosemite overview map 36 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM Preface documented in more detail than this guide can provide in Steve Roper’s excellent book, Camp 4. However, there is a large gap in Yosemite’s history between 1970 and the present. Whether recent climbers were more modest or just lazier, they rarely submitted articles to major publications. So what started as my modest fact- finding mission has yielded some of the first written accounts for many of these climbs. Welcome to Yosemite Big Walls SuperTopos. The process exponentially increased the workload WThis new approach to climbing guides came of this book and delayed it for several months, about because of a need and a surprise. but it was a powerful treat to hear the first The need was for up-to-date, accurate topos. ascent stories of the pioneers of these spectac- When I climbed all the routes in this book I ular climbs. I hope you enjoy reading these was often frustrated by the lack of good beta. histories as much as I enjoyed researching and Phoning other climbers and hanging out at the writing them. Mountain Room Bar filled some holes, but I A companion to this book is the web site often found that many routes had evolved into www. supertopo.com. This site features the something quite different than what was set latest information on the routes, big wall forth in older guidebooks. A great time on an technique tips, ordering information for the ultra classic route can be soured by not book and a gallery of photos from the routes. knowing how to prepare. Worse yet is not being I have tried hard to screen out errors from able to get off in good shape because of a poor the thousands of bits of information in this route description. Personally, I want precise guide, showing early drafts to fellow climbers information so that I can focus on the for their input. But I know that some mistakes climbing, not on whether I am off route. So unavoidably crept in due to human error. Let what I aimed for are Supertopos, the most detailed me know when you come across a mistake and and informative climbing topos ever published. I will make an appropriate correction on the web site and in the next edition of this book. Look for three key features on a Supertopo: I have used the current names of routes and features to avoid confusion, even though many • Detailed topo: pitch lengths, gear sizes, of them originally had different names. For beta, beta, beta example, Wino Tower was originally Wine Tower • Strategy and general information about and Anchorage Ledge was Anchorite Ledge. the route Climbing is a great sport; I hope this guide makes it even better for you. • Detailed approach and descent maps My surprise was finding how many unwritten great stories there were about Yosemite’s classic climbs. I started out making a few phone calls to Chris McNamara bolster the SuperTopos and quickly realized that Mill Valley, California I had uncovered a gold mine of climbing lore. So E-mail: [email protected] I hit the phones in earnest, making more than 200 calls to track down first ascentionists and P.S.: The next Supertopo books are already in the wound up with more than 40 interviews. works. Look for them soon. Many of the route histories have been COPYRIGHT © 2000 SUPERTOPO LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DUPLICATION PROHIBITED. PREFACE SuperTopo Mission • Capture the mystery, adventure and humor of climbing by publishing the histories, anecdotes and • Help climbers ascend and descend routes quickly, outrageous stories of each route. efficiently, and safely by creating the most accurate • Promote hammerless climbing by publishing the and informative climbing topos ever published. most up to date rack info as well as hammerless • Advocate routes that follow natural lines while ratings for each pitch. discouraging routes that are heavily bolted, • Stress the importance of climbing in good style enhanced or unsustainable. and promote stewardship of the environment. Visit SuperTopo.com Warren Harding, Tom Frost, Royal Robbins and more by following the SuperTopos in this series. Throughout this book you’ll notice,“For the latest route In addition to expanded climbing beta you’ll also information, visit www.supertopo.com.” Our website find enhanced route histories in this series. is the definitive resource for the latest SuperTopos— Ultimate Roadtrip Series A series of roadtrip including expanded and updated detail on every route itineraries including all the required SuperTopos in this book and many more routes. The SuperTopo and beta to introduce you to the best climbs as website includes: you visit the most awesome climbing areas. • The latest info on every route in this book and A lot of information on our website is available many more completely free of charge—including free SuperTopos on the most classic Yosemite routes. • Color SuperTopos and color photos, formatted for Check it out. We hope you’ll also take time to check printing on your inkjet or laser printer out our download-able SuperTopo products, such as • Detailed pitch-by-pitch climbing info and photos the Climber’s Dream-trips above, available for for many climbs online purchase. Visit www.supertopo.com before your next climb. • Additional SuperTopo products such as our The best and most current info on the route you are Climber’s Dream-trip Series—selections of planning to climb is probably waiting for you there. climbs in Yosemite and other great climbing areas Heck, visit us right now. in North America. Examples include: The Road to the Nose A series of climbs to help you prepare for your first attempt on The Nose. SuperTopos are included for each route as well as an overview written by Chris McNamara offering guidance on how to prepare for The Nose. This package also includes gear recommendations and contact information for climbing guides and instructional courses in Yosemite. In the Footsteps of Legends Repeat the great climbs of Yosemite heroes such as FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM Chris McNamara on Pitch 22 of the Shield on his way to an ascent time of 10:58. Photo by Corey Rich. Introduction When to Climb Yosemite has the best weather of any big wall climbing area on earth. That said, note that it could storm at any time in Yosemite, and often heavily. Climbers should always prepare for the worst on a multi-day big wall by bringing adequate bivy gear (see Staying Alive, page 22). The best times to climb are in the spring and fall. The summer can also be great once you get Welcome to big wall paradise. In Yosemite Valley a few pitches up and out of the heat. In the Wstand some of the most exquisite rock formations winter, the valley empties of both tourists and on the planet. Enjoy. climbers, giving a much more pristine feel to Getting There the climbs. Winter can have good climbing weather but can also have months of uniquely The closest international airports to Yosemite wet and severe Sierra storms. The effects of are either Oakland International or San Francisco these storms are made clear in the story on International. The Oakland airport is preferable as page 24 of the two Japanese who died climbing it is less chaotic, easier to get around and closer to the Nose. Road and weather reports can be the valley. found on the Internet sites listed in the Many people stay in Yosemite without a car. It appendix or by calling (209) 372-0200. is possible to reach most climbing areas by a free shuttle bus. Note that the shuttle does not serve General weather and crowd trends in areas west of Camp 4, including El Capitan, Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower, Cookie Cliff and Arch Rock. To reach these areas without a car you will need to Nov 15–March The walls and valley are relatively hitchhike or ride a bike. empty with usually at least one five-day spell of good weather per month. During a mild winter one to two weeks of great weather per month are Driving times and distances to common. On any winter ascent prepare for the Yosemite Valley absolute worst, as Pacific storms can last up to a From Time (hours) Distance (miles) week or longer and bring heavy snow and rain. Boulder, CO* 20:00 1,254 April–May 15 Walls and the valley are still Fresno, CA 2:20 90 uncrowded but there is a 50/50 chance of getting Truckee, CA 4:00 240 either good or miserable weather. This is also the time of some of the wettest Pacific storms. Los Angeles, CA 6:00 311 Mammoth, CA* 2:30 95 May 15–June Perfect weather and big crowds both in the valley and on the walls.
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