Y OSEMITE

BIG Second Edition WALLS

Chris McNamara Erik Sloan

The Definitive Guide To Yosemite Big Wall 15 New Routes!

Y OSEMITE

Yosemite Big Walls Second Edition

By Chris McNamara and Erik Sloan

5 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM Contents

Introduction 15 The Players 178 Drive times 15 Staying Alive 192 Monthly precipitation 16 By John Dill Climber Impacts 18 Mystery of Two Icy Deaths 194 By Mark Fincher By Tyson Hausdoerffer Taking Care of Lessons of a Fatal Plunge 198 The Big Stone 23 By Tyson Hausdoerffer By Steve Grossman Appendix Ratings 24 Wall tips 202 Ratings 26 Big wall cuisine 203 Suggested reading list 204 Cam Sizes by Brand 28 Route Index 206 Understanding the Maps 29 About the Authors 207 More from SuperTopo 208 Camp 4: Ground Zero for American Wall Climbing 30 Yosemite Overview Map 32 SuperTopos Ribbon Falls 34 40 Lost Arrow Spire 126 Washington Column 132 Mt. Watkins 150 154 Liberty Cap 164 Leaning Tower 168

7 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM Warning

Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death may occur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger.

When climbing you can only rely on your skill, training, experience, and conditioning. If you have any doubts as to your ability to safely climb any route in this guide, do not try it. This book is neither a professional climbing instructor nor a substitute for one. It is not an instructional book. Do not use it as one. It contains information that is nothing more than a compilation of opinions about climbing the Big Walls in . Those opinions are neither facts nor promises. Treat the information as one man’s opinions and nothing more. Do not substitute these opinions for your own common sense and experience.

Assumption of Risk There may be errors in this book resulting from the inadvertent mistakes of the authors and/or the people with whom he consulted. The information was gathered from a variety of sources, which may not have been independently verified. Those who provided the information may have made mistakes in their descriptions. The authors may have made mistakes in his conveyance of the information in this book. He cannot, therefore, guarantee the correctness of any of the information contained in the book. This book was published by the author. No independent publisher checked the contents. The topographical maps, the photo-diagrams, the difficulty ratings, the protection ratings, the approach and/or descent information, the suggestions about equipment and other matters may be incorrect or misleading. Fixed protection may not be where indicated, may be absent, or may be unreliable. You must keep in mind that the information in this book may be erroneous and use your own judgment when choosing, approaching, climbing, or descending from a route described in this book.

DO NOT USE THIS BOOK UNLESS YOU ASSUME THE RISK OF ITS ERRORS OF REPORTAGE OR OF JUDGMENT AND OF ITS OTHER DEFECTS.

Disclaimer of Warranties

THE AUTHORS AND PUBLISHER WARNS THAT THIS BOOK CONTAINS ONLY THE AUTHOR’S OPINION ON THE SUBJECTS DISCUSSED. HE MAKES NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR PURPOSE, OR OTHERWISE, AND IN ANY EVENT, HIS LIABILITY FOR BREACH OF ANY WARRANTY OR CONTRACT WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOK IS LIMITED TO THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE BOOK. HE FURTHER LIMITS TO SUCH PURCHASE PRICE HIS LIABILITY ON ACCOUNT OF ANY KIND OF NEGLIGENT BEHAVIOR WHATSOEVER ON HIS PART WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK.

8 YOSEMITE BIG WALLS SUPERTOPOS

Preface the big names in climbing history. The new histories (and first free ascent histories) in this book reflect the enjoyment Erik and I got from getting the likes of Layton Kor or on the phone and reliving the first ascents. On a sad note, many of the people we wanted to call again after writing the first book had passed on. Warren Harding, Chuck Pratt, and Galen Rowell, although no longer with The goal of this book is simple: create the best us physically, continue to inspire through the TYosemite big walls topos and combine them stories presented here and elsewhere. with inspiring photos and first ascent stories. This is an ongoing project, and we want new Since 1999, the stack of first edition Yosemite ideas and corrections for the next book. Please Big Walls has been stored in my parents’ garage send me an email. What do you like? What can near San Francisco. It started the size of a small be improved? car, shrunk to the size of a portaledge, and then Hope to see you up on the Big Stone! to a haulbag. When the once 5,000-pound mass reached the size of a cragging pack, I realized I would have to stop admiring the shrinking pile, get off my butt, and write another book. I wasn’t up for writing the new edition of Chris McNamara Big Walls alone. My climbing interests, once E-mail: [email protected] singularly dominated by El Cap, now extend to other areas and beyond. Luckily for me and you, Erik Sloan joined the project. Erik, a longtime friend and climbing partner, has climbed El Cap dozens of times. Erik not only climbed, topoed, and replaced bolts on most of the new routes in the book, he also wrote and edited much of the new first ascent info. greatly influenced the first edition by encouraging me to include first ascent histories and classic photos. He inspired the Players section, which is bigger and more comprehensive in this edition. Tom also suggested topos for more moderate big walls. The inclusion of Liberty Cap, Mt. Watkins, Mideast Crisis, Gold Wall, and Lost Arrow Spire give more C1 and C2 wall climbing options. Of course, we couldn’t resist throwing in more El Cap routes. Included in this book are the semi-obscure classics Never Never Land, Magic Mushroom, Son of Heart, Aquarian Wall, and the West Buttress. As with the first edition, one of the best parts of writing the second book was interviewing Half Dome at sunset. Photo by David Safanda David by Photo sunset. at Dome Half

12 YOSEMITE BIG WALLS SUPERTOPOS MISSION SuperTopo Mission

• Help climbers ascend and descend routes quickly, efficiently, and safely by creating the most accurate and informative climbing topos ever published. • Capture the mystery, adventure, and humor of climbing by publishing the histories, anecdotes, and outrageous stories of each route. • Promote clean climbing by publishing the most up-to-date rack info as well as hammerless ratings for each pitch. • Stress the importance of low-impact climbing and promote stewardship of the environment.

Visit www.SuperTopo.com Before Each Climb

There is much more beta available for free on the SuperTopo web site: www.supertopo.com. This information may be more current than the beta available here.

The web site offers additional free beta for each climb:

• photo galleries • trip reports • route condition updates • closures and rockfall warnings • route beta email alerts

The web site is packed with general Yosemite Big Wall info:

• free downloadable color topos • road and weather conditions • everything you need to know about staying in Yosemite Valley • good routes for first-time Yosemite climbers • general trip planning info

13 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM

Introduction When to Climb Yosemite has the best weather of any big wall climbing area on earth. That said, note that it could storm at any time in Yosemite, and often heavily. Climbers should always prepare for the worst on a multi-day big wall by bringing adequate bivy gear (see Staying Alive, page 192). The best times to climb here are in the spring and fall. The summer can also be great once Welcome to big wall paradise. In Yosemite Valley you get a few pitches up and out of the heat. In Wstand some of the most exquisite rock formations the winter, the Valley empties of both tourists on the planet. Enjoy. and climbers, giving a much more pristine feel Getting There to the climbs. Winter can have good climbing weather but can also have months of uniquely The closest international airports to Yosemite wet and severe Sierra storms. The effects of are Oakland International and San Francisco these storms are made clear in the story on page International. The Oakland airport is preferable 194 of the two Japanese who died climbing as it is less chaotic, easier to navigate, and closer to in a storm. Road and weather reports the Valley. can be found on the Internet sites listed in the Many people stay in Yosemite without a car. appendix or by calling (209) 372-0200. It is possible to reach most climbing areas by a free shuttle bus. Note that the shuttle does not General Weather and Crowd Trends in serve areas west of Camp 4, including El Capitan, Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower, Cookie Cliff, and Arch Rock. To reach these areas without a car you will need to Nov 15–March The walls and Valley are relatively hitchhike or ride a bike. empty with usually at least one five-day spell of good weather per month. During a mild winter one to two weeks of great weather per month are Driving Times and Distances to common. On any winter ascent prepare for the Yosemite Valley absolute worst, as Pacific storms can last up to a From Time (hours) Distance (miles) week or longer and bring heavy snow and rain. Boulder, CO* 20:00 1,254 April–May 15 Walls and the Valley are still Fresno, CA 2:20 90 uncrowded, but there is a 50/50 chance of getting South Lake Tahoe, CA 4:00 190 either good or miserable weather. This is also the time of some of the wettest Pacific storms. Los Angeles, CA 6:00 311 Mammoth, CA* 2:30 95 May 15–June Perfect weather and big crowds both in the Valley and on the walls. Oakland, CA 4:00 172 Sacramento, CA 3:30 174 July–Aug The Valley is still crowed with tourists, but walls are uncrowded. While Valley floor Salt Lake City, UT* 12:00 707 temperatures are often in the 90s and 100s, San Francisco, CA 4:30 192 temperatures on the walls 500 feet above the Tuolumne Meadows, CA 1:30 60 valley or higher are usually comfortable in the 70s and low 80s. Still, be prepared with plenty *Driving times are 2–4 hours longer when Tioga pass is closed, usually of extra water. from November to May.

15

Ceila Bull leading, and ChrisAnn Chrisdale on Muir Wall Pitch 13 Photo by Greg Epperson Greg by Photo 13 Pitch Wall Muir on belaying Chrisdale ChrisAnn and leading, Bull Ceila FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM INTRODUCTION

Sept–Nov 15 The Valley is crowded with tourists Staying in the Park and walls are crowded. Mostly cooler weather with Yosemite Valley is a small city. The bad news is an occasional heat wave. The first winter storm that the many buildings, restaurants, stores, and usually arrives in late October or early November. motel-like rooms take away from the natural beauty of the park. The good news is that these Average Max/min temp Month precipitation in degrees F same things make the Valley damn accommo- dating. You will find restaurants, groceries, January 6.35" 47/25 climbing gear, a medical clinic, motels, swimming February 6.64" 55/26 pools, rafts, bike rentals, and, if you find yourself March 5.87" 58/30 in an unfortunate situation, a jail. April 3.29" 65/34 Camping May 1.48" 71/39 Camp 4 is the historical center of American June .51" 80/46 climbing. It is also the only walk-in campground and the cheapest place to stay. No reservations July .29" 89/50 are required, but during peak season (May– August .06" 89/50 October) expect a long wait to secure a campsite. September .55" 82/48 The cost is $5 per person per night with a 14- October 1.68" 72/39 day limit on your stay. Call (800) 436-PARK to make reservations November 3.49" 57/30 for other sites. December 7.1" 49/26 Note: The Valley camping may change by the time you read this book. Contact the park for the latest camping information before making plans.

16 YOSEMITE BIG WALLS SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION

Food Groceries are available in the Valley at the Village Store, Curry Village Store, or Lodge Store. It is much cheaper to buy groceries in Oakdale, Merced, or Oakhurst on the drive to Yosemite. There are a variety of restaurants in the Valley that serve food, including pizza, deli sandwiches, ice cream, and an all-you-can-eat buffet. Infor- mation on these areas is available in the valley. Showers Showers cost $3 (towel included) and are available at Housekeeping Campground, or Breaking into a car is a trivial exercise for a Curry Village. bear. He inserts his claws at the top of the door Climbing Gear frame and pulls down. Then he climbs in and The Mountain Shop (209) 372-8396, located trashes the car. Some bears have even learned in Curry Village, offers at reasonable prices to jump up and down on the roof of vans to a selection of portaledges, haulbags and just pop the doors open. Yosemite veterans claim about every piece of gear you will need on a that bears have taught each other not only how big wall. There are also a variety of climbing to open cars, but which makes and models are shops in the Bay Area. In San Francisco: easiest to crack. Mission Cliffs and The North Face. In You can’t outsmart or outmuscle a bear. Berkeley: REI, Wilderness Exchange, and Unless you are on a wall (and bears have been Marmot Mountain Works. known to poach there, too), stash your food in one of the bear-proof storage lockers provided Bears by the park service. In Yosemite the bears occupy a position on the Anchor Conditions food chain higher than humans. If you doubt it, take a look at a car or a campsite trashed by a Since 1997 the American Safe Climbing bear out shopping for edibles. In 1998, property Association has replaced more than 2000 bolts damage caused by bears exceeded $630,000 on Yosemite’s big walls. Many trade routes have and more than 1,100 vehicles were broken into. bomber belays and some have bomber lead bolts Bears have damaged cars for as little as a stick of as well. The ASCA is working to replace the gum or an empty soda can. If you want what’s remaining bad bolts in Yosemite, but many poor yours to remain yours, remember three things bolts remain. On all but the well-traveled trade about bears: they are hungry, smart, and strong. routes, it is the climber’s responsibility to know When bears smell food, even if it’s locked in how to properly replace a belay or lead bolt. your trunk or glove compartment, they shift Under “Strategy” in each of the following into high gear. They get turned on by odors of route descriptions a general overview of the containers that once contained food. They even route’s anchor conditions is given. Keep in go for toothpaste and sunscreen. Bears don’t mind that this information may be out of date need to smell food; they see something like a by the time you do the route. For the most grocery bag or an ice chest, and associate it with up-to-date information on each route’s anchor food. In fact, they don’t even need to see that conditions, visit the ASCA web site at www. much. If a bear sees clutter inside a car, he’ll safeclimbing.org. Also, please see Wall Tips, page think, “I wonder what’s under all that stuff?” 202, for what to include in your bolt kit. and go to work.

17

Yosemite Valley seen from Wawona Tunnel. Photo by David Safanda David by Photo Tunnel. Wawona from seen Valley Yosemite FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM Free Climbing Grades Compared

USA UIAA France UK Australia V-Scale Yosemite Decimal System 5.1 I 1 M 4 5.2 II 2 D 6 5.3 III 2+ 3a III+ 3b VD 8 5.4 3- 3b IV HVD 3 3c 10 5.5 IV+ 3c 5.6 3+ 4a S 4a 12 V- 4b HS 5.7 V 4 4a 4c VS 14 5.8 V+ 4+ 16 5.9 VI- 5 4c HVS 5.10a VI 5+ 5b 18 5a 5.10b VI+ E1 6a 5c 19 V0- 5.10c VII- 6a+ 5b 6a E2 20 V0 5.10d 6b 5c VII E3 21 V0+ 5.11a 6b+ 6a VII+ V1 5.11b 6c 22 VIII- 6a V2 5.11c 6c+ E4 6b 23 5.11d VIII 7a V3 6a 24 5.12a E5 V4 VIII+ 7a+ 6c 5.12b 7b 25 V5 IX- 5.12c 7b+ 6b 26 V6 IX E6 5.12d 7c 6c 27 V7 5.13a IX+ 7c+ 28 V8 8a 6c 29 5.13b X- 7a E7 5.13c 8a+ 30 V9 X 6c 31 5.13d 8b 7a E8 V10 5.14a X+ 8b+ 32 V11 7a 33 5.14b XI- 8c 7b E9 V12 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI 7a V13 5.14d 9a E10 35 XI+ 7b 5.15a 9a+ 36 V14

26

YOSEMITE BIG WALLS SUPERTOPOS Dickey John by Photo Face. West Tower, Leaning the of 9 Pitch steep insanely the climbs free Houlding Leo 27 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM Understanding the Maps

Topo symbols

Right facing Ledge Bolt or corner rivet

Slab Left facing Hook corner placements Belay 1 station Straight in Face

Pitch 130' length Groove Pendulum or

Optional belay Tree or Chimney

False Bush Roof belay

Topo abbreviations Hooks The standard set of hooks includes: 1 each bat KB = Knifeblade hook or talon, cliff hanger, pointed Cliffhanger, Grappling Hook or Fish Hook. LA = Lost Arrow piton Bivouacs ow = offwidth Bivies are rated as “great,” “good,” “ok,” or “poor.” lb = lieback Route evolution p = fixed piton Keep in mind when reading first ascent accounts that much of the routes may be drastically Overview graphics changed. For example, the Triple Cracks pitch on the Shield now takes large angles, not the 35 rurps placed on the first ascent. Road

Bike path

Park service trail

Climber approach or descent trail

Parking area

29 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM El Capitan

AS DENALI, MOUNT RAINIER, AND THE GRAND CANYON it is an additional 20-30 minutes to reach the start of Lurking Fear or Zodiac. DOMINATE AND DEFINE THEIR RESPECTIVE NATIONAL Descent PARKS, SO DOES EL CAPITAN LOOM, TOWER, AND RULE The 2-3 hour East Ledges Descent is the OVER THE ENTRANCE TO YOSEMITE VALLEY. YOU CAN fastest, most convenient way to descend from El Capitan. It spares your knees the long PICK ANY SYNONYM FOR “DOMINATE” AND IT WILL hike down either the Trail or Tamarack Flat Trail. STILL WORK. OVERSHADOW. DOMINEER. INTIMIDATE. From the summit of most routes, hike east, staying 100 feet from OVERWHELM. NOT ENOUGH the edge of El Capitan SUCH WORDS EXIST IN OUR until you reach a long and distinct 30-40-foot- LANGUAGE TO PROPERLY wide drainage just below the Zodiac finish. (For DESCRIBE THE EFFECT THIS the Lurking Fear/West Buttress Finish, begin by CLIFF EXERTS ON CLIMBERS away from the edge AND TOURISTS ALIKE. and east until you escape slabby and brushy terrain. - , CAMP 4 Then turn and head down and a little east back to the edge of El Capitan.) Follow the drainage down Photo by Corey Rich until 80 feet before a 2,000-foot drop-off into Approach Horsetail Falls (often dry). Enter the manzanita From El Capitan Meadow, pick up the distinct bushes on a well-worn trail that after 5-10 trail that starts 300 feet west of El Capitan minutes will hug the left wall. Continue along Bridge. Follow the trail to a large clearing. the wall until bushes end and scramble down When facing the wall, walk at 10 o’clock and 3rd-class terrain for about 100 feet to a ledge pick up the climbers' trail that eventually leads that is roughly perpendicular to The Wild to a point 200 feet in front of the toe of the Dikes, a south-facing black wall streaked with Southeast Buttress and the start of the Nose. white. From here, the trail diverges to skirt either the Read the following text while referencing the base of the Southeast Face or Southwest Face. descent topo. It’s about a quarter mile and a 10-15-minute For rap routes A and B, move down 15 feet walk from the road to the toe of the Southeast of 4th class and cut right (south) across a 20- Buttress and the start of The Nose. From there, foot wide drainage gully. Walk/slide down the

40 YOSEMITE BIG WALLS SUPERTOPOS right side of the gully for 30-50 feet. Exit onto then move right over exposed 4th-class rock. the south (right) shoulder and cruise down Work right, through a bush, to a 4’ x 6’ flat ledge 40 feet to a ledge. For rap route A, continue with a small tree. Rap route C (see topo) is not toward the edge and down a 20-foot 4th-class recommended. section to a tree wrapped with slings. For rap From the base of the rappels, head east down route B (the only route you can rap with one multiple 3rd-class sections joined by faint trails. 60m rope), head left and down 30 feet of scree, Eventually, a defined trail will emerge. Follow it down to a boulder strewn drainage, immediately crossing to a trail paralleling the drainage for 300 feet before it breaks off into the trees to the Manure Pile parking lot, about one mile from El Cap Meadow. If you’re caught in a storm or descending at night and are unfamiliar with the East Ledges descent, take the tedious, 4-5-hour Yosemite Falls Trail descent instead. Pick up the Falls Trail from the summit of El Capitan (see map page 42). Photo by Chris Johns Chris by Photo

41 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM EL CAPITAN EL East Ledges Descent

wild white dikes on black wall

STEEP cross drainage, move WALL down 40', then exit to shoulder

edge 4th 4th A 120' 150' B or 5.5 100' 135' B C 155' 90' 5.6 East A, B Ledges route B C

165' 100' 200' 165' C A, B 55' Area overview 150' Complete Yosemite Valley overview on pages 32-33 B 5.2 100' to Yosemite Falls Trail and Camp 4

to Tamarack Flat 3rd

one way East Ledges El Capitan descent Merced raps enlarged When trail meets drainage drRiveainage,r cut across Southwest at right to trees and follow trail Face to Manure Pile buttress Southeast parking lot Face Zodiac talus Manure Pile Buttress approach parking standard approach

one way El Capitan Meadow to Hwy 120, west entrance, Hwy 140 one way Cathedral Rocks path to falls to south Bridalveil Fall entrance, parking Hwy 41 42 chimney descent Leaning Tower YOSEMITE BIG WALLS SUPERTOPOS 14

12 11

4 10

3 6 13 5 2 1 9

7 8

10 8 11 14

Routes: West Face

1 Lurking Fear 6 Cosmos 11 The Shield 2 West Buttress 7 Excalibur 12 Muir Wall 3 Never Never Land 8 Salathé Wall 13 Triple Direct 4 Aquarian Wall 9 Son of Heart 14 The Nose 5 Dihedral Wall 10 Magic Mushroom

43 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM 17 14 12 15 11

13 9 17 8 19

16 18

23 20

21 8 14 12 18 19

Routes: Center

81 Lurking Salathé Fear Wall 156 Cosmos Tribal Rite 2111 The Pacific Shield Ocean Walll 92 West Son ofButtress Heart Route 167 Excalibur New Dawn 2212 Muir Sea ofWall Dreams 113 Never The Shield Never Land 178 Salathé Reticent Wall Wall 2313 Triple North Direct America Wall 124 Aquarian Muir Wall Wall 189 Son Wall of of Heart Early Route Morning Light 14 The Nose 135 Dihedral Triple Direct Wall 1910 Magic Mescalito Mushroom 14 The Nose 20 South Seas

44 YOSEMITE BIG WALLS SUPERTOPOS EL CAPITAN EL

Muir Wall Approach and descent on page 4O VI 5.13c or 5.9 C4 or A2

The Muir Wall is one of El Cap’s greatest natural mind. The artificial Tlines, second only to the Salathé. It boasts large clean climbing blends into the corners from the ground to summit with moderate free. The corners, dihedrals, jam yet sustained climbing. This route is substantially cracks, bulges, are all indistinguishable parts of the more involved than the Nose or Salathé but technically great, overhanging wall. The pitches never end, and easier than the Shield or Zodiac. one day merges into another.” As they neared the top both climbers were First ascent history drained, low on bolts, and struggling with The first ascent of the Muir in June 1965 registered continuously difficult pitches. Yet even as their big wall climbing’s boldest style ever. It was the first physical movements became more stressful, their wall climb to shun fixed ropes, the first climb to be mental awareness grew sharper. “Nothing felt done without a strange about our vertical world,” wrote Chouinard. reconnaissance, “With more receptive senses we now appreciated and most everything around us…this ultra-penetrating significantly, the perception gave us a feeling of contentment that first done with a DOWN BELOW THERE WERE ONLY we had not had for years.” Chouinard and Herbert team of only two summited on the eighth day after drinking the last climbers—the TEN PEOPLE WHO EVEN KNEW WE of their water and placing their last bolt. logical progression Other history after the four-man WERE UP HERE. EVEN IF WE WERE first ascent of the In 1968 soloed the route to become North America Wall. SUCCESSFUL, THERE WOULD BE NO the first person to solo El Cap. In 1994 Kurt Smith, Yvon Chouinard Scott Cosgrove and Greg Epperson came within 20 and TM Herbert CROWDS OF HERO WORSHIPPERS, NO feet of an all-free ascent of the Muir Wall. In 2001 started the climb and Nick Sagar made the first free with two 50-pound NEWSPAPER REPORTS. ascent. Their line follows the Muir Wall for the first haulbags holding 21 pitches, then does a 7-pitch variation. minimal rations YVON CHOUINARD Strategy and a paltry bolt kit. Low on the It is the least crowded A2 route on El Cap. On day route the team one climb without a haulbag to Heart Ledges, then suffered through descend the fixed ropes to the ground. Most parties oppressive heat. Then, on day 3, a storm rolled in then spend three to five nights on the wall, hopefully and by the fourth night, rain and cold lashed the stopping at the two best ledges: Gray Ledges and Belay pair huddled on Gray Ledges. Chouinard recalled the 26. Most anchors will accommodate two portaledges. bivy: “TM had a particularly bad night, shivering so The Shaft team replaced most belay bolts. violently that he could hardly speak. When he did he Retreat/Storm sounded almost delirious. We were despondent and for the moment had lost our vision and courage. Yet This route offers poor shelter in a storm and most we kept any thoughts of retreat to ourselves.” of the upper pitches, as well as some lower pitches, Up higher, storms, heat, and the intense labor of an are exposed to runoff. Not a good route to do in the El Cap first ascent with only two people took their toll. winter. To retreat, rap the route. When they reached the Gray Bands they considered, then rejected, a bail onto the Nose before moving up Reference: Climbing, May 1998: Camp 4; Vertical World of Yosemite; Big Wall Climbing; Climbing in North America; Defying the wild, steep and clean upper dihedrals. Chouinard Gravity. wrote: “At this point the route becomes vague in my

Pitch 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 Aid A5/C5 A = aid using hammer A4/C4 C C C = hammerless aid A3/C3 C C C A2/C2 C C C C A A C C A A C A1/C1 C C C C C C C C C C C C C C C C C A C C Mandatory free 5.8-5.9 • • • ≤5.7 • • • •

72 YOSEMITE BIG WALLS SUPERTOPOS EL CAPITAN EL Muir Wall VI 5.13c or 5.9 C4 or A2

120' 19 140' 13 Rack 1' x 4' ledge .5-3" 5.11b 1 beak or C1 belay here if using C1 or 5.12b 2 KBs 50m ropes .5-3" 10 LAs: 2 ea #1, #4 nuts C3 or A2 3 ea #2, #3 5.9 or C1 60' 18 thin nuts 12 190' angels: 2 ea 1/2", 5/8" 5.9 or C1 .6-2" good ledge sawed angles: 1 ea 3/4", 1" Shield Triple Direct nuts: 2 ea (offsets useful) 190' 11 move haul 150' 17 bags here micro nuts: 1-2 ea (offsets useful) Mammoth few .5-1.5" cams: 3 ea .5-.75" belay here 5.13 var. 1' x 6' ledge if using Terraces OK bivy for 2 5 1" 50m ropes 5.8 bivy 4+ A2 loose, 3 ea 1.25-3" 5.10a 70' 26 sharp flake or C1 .6-2" cam The Shaft 1 ea 3.5-4.5" hooks (free var.) C2 1 6" (optional) 10 many .5-2" .5-3" hooks: 1 ea 4.5 Heart Ledges 5.13 or C2 cam hooks ropes to 5.11c or C1 ground reach 25 120' many .6-3" 16 100' C1 or 5.11c C3F or A2 9 (2nd crux) find tree or Gray Ledges sling rock horn 5.4 .5-4.5" .4-2" The Shaft for last anchor many .6-3" OK bivy for 2 from belay move (free var.) 5.10d or C1 15 100' left out bulge ' 33 130' 24 belay takes 3rd loose 2-3.5" block shuttle gear, belay don't haul 32 90' takes 1-4" 5.8 flared chimney Heart .5-2" loose block Ledges 8 100' or C2++ A1 or C3 .4-1.5" C2 rappels .4-1.5" 5.11 5.11d or C1 C2 many leave bags or C2 small nuts at 30 and haul 14 100' from rim many .6-3" belay takes .6-2" 130' 23 5.6 p 30 90' .5-1" belay belay takes 31 110' p 100' 7 C2 or 5.12+ takes .6-2.5" C1 .75-2" many 5.7 .6-3" 13 friction/ 5.10 tension Turning traverse C3 or A2 arrows, angles or C1 Point .5-1.5" Magic Mushroom A2 or C3 (1st crux) 110' p 6 pendulum right to .4-1.5" 80' 29 Magic Mushroom hollow arrows and thin nuts 5.13a route goes hammerless 22 165' 110' 5 belay C4 or A2 or C2 at C2 until Pitch 23 takes .6-1" few cams 5.12b or C1+ .4-.75" .5-2" belay many .6-2", 150' 28 takes 120' 4 C1 especially 1" .5-1.5" 5.12R many or C1+ .5-4.5" The Shaft (free var.) 1' x 3' 135' 3 21 110' ledge many .5-1.5", many nuts C2 5.11b or C1 5.12 or C1

many 5.12b or C1 5.10 squeeze .5-3" or C1+ 1-4.5" 2 40' great ledge 100' 27

155' 5.8 1 and 2 link 5.9 or C1 1 4.5" move C1 with 60m rope 110' 20

.6-3.5" 5.10 or C1 move many .5-2" 5.9+ squeeze 5.9 .75-3" A Moby Dick, Center is the A better start 5.10 5.7 26 19

73 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM