Scenic Byways Have Earned the Highest Are Woven Into the Fabric of Our Nation’S Distinction by Being Named Into the History

Home , Canal Place, Catoctin Mountain Park, Cedarville State Forest, Costen House, Cromwell Valley Park, Cumberland Narrows

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Maryland Office y s of Tourism. the state’s most spectacular scenery, I am proud that three of Maryland’s picturesque towns and landscapes that scenic byways have earned the highest are woven into the fabric of our nation’s distinction by being named into the history. Choose from 19 unique byways collection of America’s Byways. This that touch every corner of our state and designation recognizes these routes for let you experience our state’s scenic their scenic, cultural and historic beauty, history and culture. significance. The three impressive routes will take you to Chesapeake Country, or Among the itineraries is a byway leading out to Western Maryland on the Historic Dear Traveler, to the mouth of the Patuxent River where National Road and through the Catoctin In today’s fast-paced lifestyle, we often an historic water battle took place, which Mountains. don’t have the time to take the road less leads you to where the red glare of traveled to reach our destinations. The rockets cascaded over Fort McHenry, Whatever route you choose, I encourage Maryland Scenic Byways Guidebook and inspiring Francis Scott Key to pen our you to take advantage of Maryland’s Map is designed to steer you away from National Anthem. Other byways will take outstanding scenery and enjoy the ride Maryland’s interstates and highways to you to St. Mary’s City, Maryland’s first on Maryland’s byways. an exciting network of scenic byways just capital, where tolerance was integral to brimming with antique rows, early- its founding, and to the farms and trails Sincerely, morning farmers’ markets, wineries and a on the Eastern Shore where the daring host of historic sites and attractions. Harriet Tubman led courageous enslaved people to freedom. Maryland’s network of byways has been Martin O’Malley created to take you, our guest, through Governor 1 Introduction ...... 3 National Historic Seaport ...... 97

Byways ...... 7-161 Star-Spangled Banner ...... 105

Historic National Road...... 7 Booth’s Escape ...... 115

Mountain Maryland...... 19 Roots and Tides ...... 121

Chesapeake and Ohio Canal ...... 27 Religious Freedom Tour...... 129

Antietam Campaign ...... 39 Chesapeake Country ...... 139

Catoctin Mountain...... 47 Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad ...... 153

Old Main Streets ...... 55 Blue Crab ...... 161

Mason and Dixon...... 63 Destination Marketing Organizations ...... 171 Falls Road ...... 71 Heritage Sites...... 172 Horses and Hounds ...... 77 Acknowlegements/Photography Credits.... 174 Lower Susquehanna ...... 83

Charles Street ...... 89 Index ...... 175

2 Historic National Road Charles Street Maryland has designated 19 byways that encompass 2,487 miles of beau- Mountain Maryland National Historic Seaport tiful roads, which offer a taste of Maryland’s scenic beauty, history and Chesapeake and Ohio culture. Take the roads less traveled Historic National Road Star-Spangled Banner including four entirely new byways Canal Two centuries ago, the easiest way for featuring nationally significant settlers to cross the Appalachian Mountains and Antietam Campaign Booth’s Escape themes: the Star-Spangled Banner, go west was on the dirt and cobblestone-covered Antietam Campaign, Booth’s Escape National Road, America’s first federally funded highway. and the Mason and Dixon byways. Catoctin Mountain Roots and Tides The National Road began in 1806 to open trade and AMERICA’S BYWAYS communication with the growing frontier in the Religious Freedom Tour Old Main Streets America’s Byways® are a collection of Ohio River Valley. Today you can travel Maryland’s routes recognized by the U.S. portion of this road from Baltimore to Western Maryland, stopping to enjoy the inns, taverns and Mason and Dixon Chesapeake Country Secretary of Transportation as the most significant routes throughout shops that have survived from the road’s heyday. Harriet Tubman the country, based on their scenery, Falls Road Underground Railroad Catoctin Mountain culture, history, archaeology, and The hardwood forests encircling Catoctin Mountain are a natural recreational opportunities. Follow a Blue Crab wonderment, serving as a sanctuary for plants and wildlife, and Horses and Hounds Maryland Byway that has earned this surrounding towns offer a deep exploration of the area’s rich industrial national distinction: Lower Susquehanna heritage. 5 The mountain’s old paths and roads MARYLAND’S HERITAGE AREAS trace a variety of traditional Appalachian entrepreneurial endeav- A Rich Heritage ors, including farms, sawmills and the The byways are a great avenue to making of moonshine. Travelers today explore Maryland’s Heritage Areas. enjoy miles of hiking and biking trails While traveling along Maryland’s and views of Cunningham Falls. Byways, you’ll uncover rich historical and cultural heritage throughout 11 Maryland Heritage Areas. Historic Chesapeake Country preservation goes hand in hand with Explore the Chesapeake landscape protecting and promoting our state’s that has shaped its watermen natural beauty within the Heritage lifestyle. Your journey takes you past Areas. In each area, citizens have put fertile farmland graced by handsome forth effort to ensure that the jour- – often historic – manor houses. You neys you take with this guide are his- enter small historic waterfront villages torically and culturally unforgettable rich with art, culture and pure coun- for years to come. try charm, and then slip through secluded spots surrounded by unspoiled nature. Pristine waterways and relaxing bay vistas are a treat for the senses.

6 Two centuries ago, the easiest way Vandalia, Illinois. Soon after, however, for thousands of settlers to cross the the sight of train tracks signaled a Appalachian Mountains and go west shift in transportation priorities. was on the dirt, macadam and cob- 170 miles from blestone-covered National Road, Today’s adventurers enjoy traveling Baltimore to America’s first federally funded high- 170 miles along Maryland’s portion of Pennsylvania Line way. Horse-drawn Conestoga wagons this All-American Road, seeing the lugged building materials and sup- highway as it progressed west (rather plies, while families rode stagecoach- than following the eastward course es and carriages, stopping frequently of most other byways in this guide). along the way to take advantage of While passing through cozy towns friendly towns that quickly sprouted featuring attractions, eateries and inns, taverns, blacksmith shops and accommodations that hearken back wagon yards. to the road’s earliest days, feel free to romanticize about life as it was for Two centuries ago, Congress approved funding for the those first, rugged pioneers. the easiest way for thousands interstate highway in 1806 to open of settlers to cross the up trade and communication with the The Historic National Road also passes growing frontier in the Ohio River through three Maryland Heritage Appalachian Mountains and go Valley, but four decades of hard labor Areas: Baltimore City, Heart of Civil west was on the dirt, macadam were required to complete the project War (in Frederick) and Canal Place (in and cobblestone-covered from Baltimore all the way through to Cumberland). National Road

8 9 Baltimore to Frederick – Lombard Street, MD 144, MD 27 & MD 144 The Baltimore to Cumberland portion of the road, designated the Baltimore National Pike, begins at water’s edge in the Inner Harbor area, where you are also linked to the Charles Street and National Historic Seaport byways (pages 89 and 97, respectively). Follow Lombard Street west and stop at the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Museum, located at the site of the oldest railroad station in the country. Pass through several historic neighborhoods, including Union Square, which journalist H.L. Mencken called home. While leaving Baltimore, you pass many National Pike-era hotels, taverns and warehouses before crossing the Gwynns Falls Greenway, which is an excursion through natural landscapes and historical landmarks on a 14-mile paved hike and bike trail.

West of the city along MD 144 (Frederick Road) is the National Historic District of Catonsville, which was developed in 1810 and became a hot spot for summer homes when linked to downtown Baltimore by electric trolley lines. Before crossing the Patapsco River, drive through the town of Oella, which still contains old stone and brick buildings that once housed textile and 10 paper mill workers and was home to and picnics. This area is also popular Manor, which is more than just kid’s with the Antietam Campaign byway African-American mathematician for boutiques and antiques shops. stuff: A 43-acre park featuring early (page 39) as you pass Civil War mark- Benjamin Banneker. Banneker, who You will pass historic hotels, restau- American gardens and an orchard ers within South Mountain State Park helped layout Washington, D.C.’s rants and taverns that hosted surround an elegant, 18th-century and enter Boonsboro. Make time for boundaries, and is honored in Oella, National Road travelers as you make Georgian mansion, the former home a sidetrack into Washington with a 142-acre historical park and your way toward Frederick. of Maryland’s first elected governor, Monument State Park, site of the first museum. You’re also in the vicinity of Thomas Johnson. The town also fea- monument erected in George Patapsco Valley State Park, with its Frederick to Hagerstown – tures every form of entertainment Washington’s honor. The park also 14,000 acres, five recreational areas, US 40, US 40 Alt. from dinner theater to minor-league happens to be located along the and the Avalon Visitor Center. When it became connected to baseball, and it is the first of three Appalachian National Scenic Trail in Beyond the Patapsco River, antiques Baltimore via the National Pike, “Arts & Entertainment Districts” the Cumberland Valley, a noted shops, unique restaurants and historic Frederick flourished as a commercial found along this route. At the end of migratory bird flyway, so bring your buildings await in Ellicott City. This center that transported agricultural a long day, one of Frederick’s inns or binoculars. former flour milling town features the products toward Baltimore’s port. bed and breakfasts is a welcome first railroad station in the nation, as Take advantage of sight-seeing sight. Rest up, because you’ll be Continuing west on US 40 Alternate, well as Thomas Isaac’s Log Cabin, opportunities in the town’s historic heading for the mountains in the the farmland of Funkstown is dotted which served as a National Road way district, where numerous homes and morning. with Pennsylvania-Dutch bank barns station. public buildings represent two cen- and smaller English-style structures. turies of architecture. Visit Francis Enjoy the awe-inspiring view from Beyond the farmers’ fields lies the Once a railroad and turnpike town, Scott Key’s law office and the Braddock Heights before heading town of Hagerstown. the Mount Airy of today and New National Museum of Civil War down into the farming village of Market its neighbor feature an array Medicine before moving on to the Middletown. This part of the Historic of vineyards that are open for tours Children’s Museum of Rose Hill National Road byway also overlaps

12 13 Hagerstown to Cumberland – Entertainment Districts” found along Next in line is Hancock, an important roads for three state byways, as the Frederick, Baltimore, Locust the Historic National Road. link to the C&O Canal byway (page Historic National Road mingles once and Franklin Streets, US 40, 27),and where the Western Maryland again with the C&O Canal and flirts I-70, MD 144, Scenic US 40, Continue west on US 40 through a Rail Trail parallels the C&O Canal to briefly with Mountain Maryland (page MD 144, I-68, Baltimore St, region of large, mid-19th-century offer panoramic vistas of the Potomac 19). And if you’re wondering what Henderson Ave farms and homesteads, and look for River. A national historic park visitor’s the third “Arts & Entertainment In Hagerstown, US 40 Alternate the small waterfront park on the center offers a close look at canal life. District” is along this route, look no becomes Frederick Street and reveals Conococheague River that offers a After a scenic climb up Sideling Hill, further. In addition to galleries, the- a vivid glimpse of America’s trans- fine view of the Wilson Bridge. which was the scene of many stage- aters and museums, Cumberland has portation past. So many early railroad Dating from 1819 and poised upon coach mishaps due to the steep a brew house that was built in 1819 companies were linked into five stone arches, it’s the oldest and turns, enjoy the view from Town Hill as a National Pike tavern and was Hagerstown that it earned the nick- longest bridge of its kind in where you can see into three states later struck by a cannonball during name “Hub City”. It is also a major Washington County. Pass through at once. Then stop for a relaxing the Civil War. crossroads for east-west and north- Wilson, site of the 160-year-old round of golf amid the ridges and south traffic through the Cumberland Wilson’s General Store/One Room valleys of Rocky Gap State Park near A steam-engine train ride on the Valley. The town features the South Schoolhouse, and head toward Clear Flintstone. Another option is a chal- Western Maryland Scenic Railroad or Prospect Street Historic District, which Spring where you can sidetrack south lenging bike ride through Green an exhilarating bike ride on the has a roundhouse museum among along MD 68 and 56 to Fort Frederick Ridge State Forest. Allegheny Highlands Trail will take several other sites dedicated to pre- State Park. The fort, based in Big you to Frostburg, where a nationally Cumberland to State Line – serving the town’s rich history. Pool, has been restored to its 1758 recognized carriage museum is locat- US 40 Alt, US 40 Hagerstown is also a hub of culture appearance, when it was the cornered. In LaVale, the route passes one of and creativity, earning it the distinc- stone of Maryland’s defense during Road, railway and canal come togeth- Maryland’s few remaining historic toll tion of being the second of “Arts & the French & Indian War. er in Cumberland. It’s also a cross- houses, outside of which a plaque 14 15 still displays the cost for wagons, ani- OLD LINE LORE: The National Benjamin Banneker Historical Park The Children’s Museum of Rose Flintstone, 21530 National Museum of Civil War mals and pioneering pedestrians to Road’s first toll gate house, built during & Museum Hill Manor 301-478-3124 Medicine pass. the 1830s in LaVale, had seven sides so 300 Oella Ave 1611 N Market St. www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes 48 E. Patrick St that the gatekeeper would have an easier Oella, 21228 Frederick, 21701 tern/greenridge/html Frederick, 21701 Conestoga wagons once crossed the time watching for “toll crashers.” The 410-887-1087 301-694-1650, 301-695-1854 Casselman River Bridge, a single- design must have been effective – www.thefriendsofbanneker.org www.rosehillmuseum.com Gwynns Falls Greenway www.CivilWrMed.org span, stone-arch structure built for $9,745.90 in tolls was collected during Windsor Mill/Franklintown the National Road near Grantsville in the gate house’s first year of operation, Canal Place Heritage Area Fort Frederick State Park Baltimore, 21207 Patapsco Valley State Park 1813. The town is largely populated 1836. Western Maryland Railway Station, 11100 Fort Frederick Rd. 410-396-0440 8020 Baltimore National Pike by descendants of mid-19th-century 13 Canal St Big Pool, 21711 www.gwynnsfalltrail.org Ellicott City, 21043 Amish and Mennonite farmers. Today, Appalachian National Scenic Trail Cumberland, 21502 301-842-2155 410-461-5005 travelers can access the bridge from a Appalachian Trail Conservancy 301-724-3655, 1-800-989-9394 ww.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/west- Hagerstown Roundhouse Museum www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen- former stagecoach stop known as 799 Washington Street www.canalplace.org ern/fortfrederick.html 300 S Burhans Blvd (U.S. 11) tral/patapcovalley.html Spruce Forest Artisan Village that P.O. Box 807 Hagerstown, 21740 serves as a cultural center promoting Harpers Ferry, WV 25425 Casselman River Bridge State Park Francis Scott Key’s Law Office 301-739-4665 Rocky Gap State Park local arts, crafts and music. US 40 304-535-6331 349 Headquarters Ln Roger Brooke Taney & Francis Scott www.roundhouse.org I-68, Exit 50, 12500 Pleasant Valley Rd Alternate then winds through the www. appalachiantrail.org Grantsville, 21536 Key Museum Flintstone, 21530 northern section of Savage River 301-895-5453 121 S. Bentz St. LaVale Toll Gate House 301-722-1480 State Forest and over Keyser’s Ridge Baltimore & Ohio Railroad www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes Frederick 21701 14302 National Hwy www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes to the Mason and Dixon Line. Museum tern/casselman.html 301-228-2828, 1-800-999-3613 LaVale, 21502 tern/rockygap.html 2711 Maryland Ave 301-777-5138 Ellicott City, 21043 Green Ridge State Forest www.mdmountainside.com 410-461-1945 28700 Headquarters Dr NE www.ecborail.org 16 17 Savage River State Forest Washington Monument State Park 127 Headquarters Ln South Mountain Recreation Area Grantsville, 21536 21843 National Pike 301-895-5759 Boonsboro, 21713 www.dnr.state.md.us 301-732-8065 www.dnr.state.md.us/publicland/west South Mountain State Park ern/washington.html 21843 National Pike Boonsboro, 21713 Western Maryland Scenic Railroad 301-791-4767 & The Old Frostburg Depot www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes 13 Canal St tern/southmountain.html Cumberland, 21502 301-759-4400 Spruce Forest Artisan Village www.wmsr.com Rt. 40 next to Penn Alps Grantsville, 21536 Wilson’s General Store/One Room 301-895-3332 Schoolhouse 14921 Rufus Wilson Rd. Thrasher Carriage Museum Clear Spring, 21722 19 Depot St 301-582-4718 Frostburg, 21532 www.wilsonsgeneralstore.com 301-689-3380, 301-777-8678 www.thrashercarriage.com

18 Throughout much of this mountain- owing their growth to the C&O Canal ous, Western Maryland byway, the and B&O Railroad. sweetest sound you’ll hear just might be the silence. It’s a stillness that Keyser’s Ridge to Deep Creek 193 miles from allows you to listen more closely for Lake State Park – I-68, MD 42, Keyser’s Ridge to light breezes tickling autumn leaves, US 219 Cumberland birdsongs echoing along forest trails, Start your tour in Keyser’s Ridge and and ripples of lake water lapping follow I-68 across the Eastern against gently rocking rowboats. Continental Divide. To the west is Friendsville, home of a family-run Take your time meandering through winery and the Youghiogheny River peaceful glades, valleys and marsh- Lake, a popular spot for boating, fish- lands, finally emerging from thick for- ing and paddling. The river itself runs est areas to find the shore of for about 135 miles through three Maryland’s largest freshwater lake. Be states, delivering frequent drops of Throughout much prepared for hiking, biking, skiing, more than 100 feet per mile. A sec- of this mountainous, boating and all kinds of other out- tion between Miller’s Run and Western Maryland byway, door adventures. But along with four Friendsville is Maryland’s first Scenic seasons of outdoor pursuits, this and Wild River, with white-water raft- the sweetest sound you’ll byway also offers a little history. You’ll ing guides conveniently located along hear just might be be visiting mid-19th-century coal min- the way. Learn more at the the silence. ing villages, as well as mill towns Youghiogheny Overlook Welcome

20 21 Center on I-68 East just outside bringing you back to US 219. common in northern climates. above the city, you can look out over Friendsville. a museum, a community theater, Deep Creek Lake to Oakland – Continue your outdoor explorations unique boutiques and antiques Slipping southward on MD 42 to US US 219, Mayhew Inn Rd, at Swallow Falls State Park where a stores. Oakland’s Historic B&O Train 219, the rustic village of McHenry is Swallows Fall Rd, Herrington popular hiking trail leads to the 51- Station, dating to 1884, is not only where you’ll find Wisp Mountain Manor Rd foot Muddy Creek Falls, largest of considered one of the most distin- Resort. Winter activities include ski- Follow Mayhew Inn Road through the four falls within the park. Another guished historic depots in the coun- ing, snowboarding and tubing, while Hammell Glade Swamp and on to trail leads back from the riverbank try, but also houses shops featuring warm-weather fun ranges from golf Swallow Falls Road. Here, the through a virgin stand of white pine baked goods, maple syrup and the to mountain biking. Nearby, Deep Youghiogheny River flows through and hemlock. works of local artisans. Creek Lake State Park hugs the state’s shaded, rocky gorges along the bor- largest freshwater lake, formed by a der of Swallow Falls State Park, which Then explore a 53-acre lake and more Oakland to Cumberland – dam that was completed in 1925. is part of the greater Garrett State than 21 miles of wooded trails at MD 135 & 36 The park offers a variety of water Forest. Herrington Manor State Park.Twenty Wrap around to MD 135, heading activities and six miles of trails for log cabins within the park are avail- east through Mountain Lake Park and winter sports enthusiasts. State Park Take a northwesterly sidetrack on able year-round for renting, or you Deer Park to the Potomac State Road follows the 3,900-acre lake’s Cranesville Road to the Cranesville can make your way to quaint accom- Forest. A sidetrack along MD 560 eastern shore and gets you to the Subartic Swamp, a patch of forest modations in the nearby town of takes you past picturesque valleys and Discovery Center, where a children’s and high-mountain bog where many Oakland. A nationally recognized remote trout streams, and then you interactive room is one part of a plant and animal species remain as Main Street Community, Oakland is can park beside the Lostland Run Trail 6,000-square-foot educational experi- relics of an earlier era. A boardwalk noted for its seamless blend of past and hike 3.5 miles down to the 100- ence. Glendale Road takes you over crosses the swamp so you can enjoy and present. From the Garrett County foot Cascade Falls. to the western shore of the lake, closer looks at an ecosystem more Courthouse, which sits on a hill

22 23 At this point on the byway, three • Following Savage River Road due Developed in 1835 by the Georges the United States. One last stop on branches promise many more scenic north, you come to the 54,000-acre Creek Coal and Iron Company, this tour is Cumberland Narrows, a discoveries for nature enthusiasts: Savage River State Forest. Shaded Lonaconing contains dozens of 19th- 1,000-foot gorge between Wills and trails stay cool on even the warmest and early 20th-century buildings, and Haystack mountains, which links • Branch north on MD 495 through summer days, and anglers enjoy within a park in the center of town is back into the Historic National Road the ancient bogs and swamp areas wading into the nationally a historic iron furnace. in Cumberland. of the Allegany Highlands. Hiking acclaimed river to coax brook, rain- and biking trails not only connect bow and brown trout out of deep Continue north on MD 36 through OLD LINE LORE: Nearly 2,000 with the C&O Canal towpath, but holes shadowed by large boulders. the mining village of Midland and acres of Garrett State Forest were donat- also follow the route of the A 350-acre reservoir provides crys- along the valley floor between Dans ed by the Garrett brothers, John and Western Maryland Railroad for tal-clear mountain water for boat- Mountain and the Big Savage moun- Robert, in 1906, marking the beginning more than 200 miles between ing and fishing. Below the dam, tain range. Dans Mountain has a of Maryland’s public lands system. A cen- Cumberland and the Pennsylvania white-water rapids attract the most 2,895-foot-high scenic overlook, tury later, about 200,000 acres of state line. experienced paddlers. accessible via MD 55 and affording forestland exist. • A quick detour on MD 38 brings views of the Georges Creek Valley to you to the remote town of Back on MD 135, follow a steep pas- the west and the Potomac Valley to Cranesville Subarctic Swamp Kitzmiller. Developed as a milling sage and descent from the top of the east. In Frostburg, which was Cranesville Rd & Lake Ford Rd center, it became key to the mining Backbone Mountain, which at 3,360 once known as the capital of the coal Oakland, 21550 industry and the transport of coal feet above sea level, is the highest region, travelers can jump to the 301-387-4386 via the railroad. Nearby is Jennings point in the state. Next, you hook Historic National Road (page 7) or www.garrettchamber.com Randolph Lake, a mountainous into MD 36 and climb toward the continue on toward Mount Savage, recreation area with boating, sail- town of Lonaconing, which is an where in 1844 a rolling mill produced ing, scuba diving, ice fishing, and Indian name roughly translated as the first solid railroad tracks made in camping. “the meeting place of many waters.” 25 24 Deep Creek Lake State Park 301-334-2691 Savage River State Forest 898 State Park Rd www.oaklandmd.com 127 Headquarters Ln Swanton, 21561 Grantsville, 21536 301-387-4111 Lonaconing Iron Furnace and Park 301-895-5759 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes Rt 36, Main St www.dnr.state.md.us tern/deepcreeklake.html Lonaconing, 21539 301-463-6233 Swallow Falls State Park Deep Creek Lake Discovery Center www.mdmountainside.com 222 Herrington Ln 898 State Park Rd Oakland, 21550 Swanton, 21561 Mount Savage Museum Bank, Jail 301-334-9180 301-387-7067 and Mining Building www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes Main Street tern/swallowfalls.html tern/dicovery.html Mount Savage, 21545 301-264-9916 Wisp Mountain Resort Herrington Manor State Park www.mountsavagehistoricalsociety.org 296 Marsh Hill Rd 222 Herrington Ln Deep Creek Lake, 21541 Oakland, 21550 Potomac State Forest 301-387-4911 301-334-9180 222 Herrington Ln www.wispresort.com www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes Oakland, 21550 tren/herringtonmanor.html 301-334-2038 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes Historic B&O Train Station tern/potomacforest.html 117 E. Liberty St Oakland, 21550 26 Workers who toiled on the of Western Maryland, through farm- housed within the Western Maryland number of historic sites found along story lock tender’s house. Chesapeake & Ohio Canal between land and forest, to the tidewater out- Railway Station, which dates back to its shores. Approaching West Virginia, you skirt 1828 and 1850 could not have imag- skirts of our nation’s capital. Your 1916. The national park itself includes Green Ridge State Forest, famous ined that their engineering feat – journey follows this same course, 236 miles from the C&O Canal Towpath Trail along From the Spring Gap Recreation Area among wildlife watchers and off-road designed for the sole purpose of allowing you to make heritage discov- Cumberland to nearly 20,000 acres paralleling the off MD 51, a one-mile hike along the bikers alike. In the distance is the speeding up commercial trade – eries along each new mile. Washington, D.C. Potomac River, which is recognized as canal towpath leads to Lock 72, most impressive engineering achieve- would one day become a hub of out- an American Heritage River for the which stands beside a restored, two- ment found along the canal – the door recreational activity. Hiking, bik- Cumberland to Hancock– ing, bird watching and mule-drawn MD 51 – WV 9 & U.S. 522 barge rides are among the many pop- Though plans called for the C&O ular pursuits now enjoyed beside this Canal to extend from the Chesapeake peaceful passage. Bay all the way into the Ohio Valley, railroading won the race to the west, During its century of service, the and work on the canal stalled in canal worked with a system of 74 lift Cumberland. This beautiful town – a locks that regulated water levels, transportation crossroads tucked allowing boats laden with coal, flour, amid the Allegheny Mountains – is lumber, grain and produce to be home to the Cumberland C&O Canal pulled by mule teams walking on an National Historical Park Visitor Center adjacent towpath. Their 184.5-mile at Canal Place and the Canal Place journey stretched from the mountains Heritage Area. The visitor center is

28 29 Paw Paw Tunnel, border back into Maryland and arrive which, over the at the Hancock-based C&O Canal course of 14 years, Museum and Visitors Center. Exhibits was cut through more and a short film bring canal history to than 3,000 feet of life, and the center’s staff can point rock so that vessels you toward local country roads that would not have to feature wayside markers, views of navigate a tricky dou- locks and other canal sites. This area ble bend in the river. is also famous for its fishing and Both the tunnel and a many fine restaurants. West Virginia town just across the border For several miles from Hancock east are named for small, toward Big Pool, the C&O Canal fruit-bearing trees byway runs side by side with the found nearby. Historic National Road byway (see pages 7-18). You’re also near the Hancock to beginning of the 21-mile-long Sharpsburg - Western Maryland Rail Trail, a paved MD 144 – I-70 – path that traverses Fort Frederick MD 56, 68, State Park, site of an important 63 & 65 defensive position occupied in the Emerging from West mid-18th century during the French & Virginia, you cross the Indian War. The fort later saw action

30 31 during the American Washington arranged for the con- byway that is a land of nationally rec- Revolution and Civil War. struction of an arsenal which, many ognized landmarks. Point of Rocks years later, became a key achieved national recognition in 1830 Returning to the canal, the brick Confederate target prior to the Civil when the B&O Railroad and C&O Lockhouse 49 takes you back to War Battle of Antietam. Canal companies fought over the the 19th century when workers right of way on land between lived here. And soon you’ll be In Brunswick, railroad yards parallel Catoctin Mountain and the Potomac, entering the town of the canal and river. Visit the crucial to their race westward. Then Sharpsburg, where Civil War sto- Brunswick Railroad Museum/C&O travel through the Monocacy Natural ries mingle with transportation Canal Visitors Center, where exhibits Resource Management Area to tales. not only tell about the life of railroad admire the Monocacy Aqueduct, that workers but also local baseball and is the largest of the canal’s 11 aque- Sharpsburg to Point of Rocks - the canal. If you’re a hiker or biker, ducts. A sidetrack on MD 95 leads to MD Rts. 65, 34, 478 & 464 get information from the visitors cen- Sugarloaf Mountain Natural Area, In Sharpsburg, the C&O Canal byway links with the ter about 31 hiker-biker campsites which is a National Natural Landmark. Maryland Civil War Trails: Antietam Campaign (see pages (for single-night tent camping) spaced Heavily wooded and covered with 39-46). After touring the Antietam National Battlefield, site of every few miles along the canal’s brown sandstone, this isolated moun- the bloodiest day in the Civil War, you’ll want to stroll through towpath trail from Swain’s Lock (Mile tain hosted many lookouts during the the surrounding town and admire the late-19th-century country 16.6) to Evitts Creek (Mile 180.1). Civil War. Now it’s open for hiking, store and canal-related exhibits at the Barron’s C&O Canal Museum. horseback riding and picnicking. Point of Rocks to Gaithersburg - Following U.S. 340 for a brief sidetrack across the Potomac and Shenandoah US 15 – MD Rts. 28, 109 & 117 In Poolesville, the John Poole House is rivers brings you to Harpers Ferry,West Virginia. This is where George You’ve entered a stretch of the canal an 18th-century log store built by the

32 33 town’s founder and is a National land preservation program, the agri- tures while also taking advantage of that drop 76 feet in two-thirds of a Historic Landmark. Another museum cultural reserve features rolling coun- canoe and bike rentals. And just mile, from the Piedmont Plateau to is located in the restored, one-room try side steeped in history. Drive above the canal’s 10-mile mark, the the tidewater part of the Potomac Seneca Schoolhouse, built in 1866 down rustic, rural roads to see land- Carderock Recreation Area has river- River. Rough patches like this made from sandstone quarried nearby. The scapes that have changed little since front picnic facilities while also pro- the Potomac unnavigable by ships, school closed in 1910, but whispers colonial times, including 18th-century viding bikers with convenient access prompting the need for a canal. remain of the farmers’ children who plantation homes, horse farms and to the unpaved C&O Canal Towpath. performed their recitations here every weathered barns. Following MD 118 Ample rock-climbing experiences are Stop in at the Great Falls Tavern, now Friday. also takes you to Germantown, also available, with ascents up to 80 the visitor center for the C&O Canal known for its small-town charm and feet. National Historical Park-Potomac. From Poolesville, a sidetrack on 107 prime antiquing opportunities. Originally a lockhouse, the tavern is West brings you to White’s Ferry Another stop on both the C&O Canal home to a museum of canal history where cars today cross the river on Head back toward the Potomac River byway and Maryland Civil War Trails and lore, and features a restored the ferry that was used during the and visit Seneca Creek State Park to system is the Clara Barton National canal boat. You can also arrange for Civil War by the Confederate armies see a mill and 19th-century cabin. Historic Site. Known as the “Angel of a guided, one-hour, mule-drawn entering Maryland. Stop for a picnic the Battlefield” for her efforts to barge ride through one of the historic along the canal and river. comfort sick and injured soldiers. lift locks. Seneca to Washington, D.C. - Barton later founded the American Consider exploring a branch off of MD Rts. 190 & 189, MacArthur Red Cross. Before entering Washington, D.C., the byway through the Montgomery Blvd. Clara Barton Parkway & veer east into Bethesda. Officially rec- County’s Agricultural Reserve, part of Canal Road Located three miles west of ognized by the State of Maryland as Heritage Montgomery. Considered From several “lock” roads that link to Carderock, the Great Falls is a spec- one of several Arts & Entertainment the country’s most successful farm- MD 190, you can admire canal struc- tacular series of waterfalls and rapids Districts in this region, Bethesda is a

34 35 hub of cultural activity featuring the largest, edible fruit native to C&O Canal Museum & Visitors C&O Canal Paw Paw Tunnel museums, gardens, galleries, per- America, and the tree’s leaves and twigs Center MD Rt 51, near Paw Paw, WV, forming arts, and upscale shopping. contain cancer-fighting properties. 326 E Main St, Hancock 21750 Cumberland 21502 301-678-5463 301-722-8226 Another canal visitors center lies with- Antietam National Battlefield Fri-Tues, 9am-4:30pm. Sunrise-sunset. in Georgetown, which was once a Rt 65, Sharpsburg Pk, Sharpsburg www.nps.gov/choh busy Maryland tobacco port and now 21782 C&O Canal Museum & Visitors has been incorporated into 301-432-5124 C&O Canal National Historical Center Washington, D.C. This stylish, urban Daily, 8:30am-5pm. Park-Georgetown 326 E Main St, Hancock 21750 community’s 18th- and 19th-century www.nps.gov/anti 1057 Thomas Jefferson St NW, 301-678-5463 homes and commercial buildings now Georgetown, Washington, D.C., Fri-Tues, 9am-4:30pm. house shops and restaurants. The Barron’s C&O Canal Museum 20007 www.nps.gov/choh C&O Canal’s first lock lies at the 5632 Mose Cir, Sharpsburg 21782 202-653-5190 mouth of Rock Creek, near the John 301-432-8726 www.nps.gov/choh Clara Barton National Historic Site F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Sat-Sun, 9am-5pm. 5801 Oxford Rd, Glen Echo 20812 Arts. Now you’re ready to be released C&O Canal National Historical 301-492-6282 into our nation’s capital city. Brunswick Railroad Museum/C&O Park-Potomac Call for schedule. Canal Visitors Center 11710 MacArthur Blvd, Potomac www.nps.gov/clba OLD LINE LORE: Both the C&O 40 W Potomac St, Brunswick 21716 20854 http://www.nps.gov/clba Canal’s famous Paw Paw Tunnel and a 301-834-7100 301-299-3613, 301-767-3714 West Virginia town just across the border Jan-Apr: Fri, 10am-2pm; Sat, 10am- Barge rides: Apr-Oct. are named for small, fruit-bearing trees 4pm; Sun, 1-4pm. Rest of year: Thur, www.nps.gov/choh found nearby. The pawpaw is said to be 10am-2pm. www.brrm.org 36 37 Cumberland C&O Canal National www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes Seneca Creek State Park Historical Park Visitor Center tern/greenridge.html 11950 Clopper Rd Western Maryland Railway Station, Gaithersburg 20878 13 Canal St, Cumberland 21502 John Poole House 301-924-2127 301-722-8226 19923 Fisher Ave, Poolesville 20837 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen- 9am-5pm. Closed Mon, Tue during 301-972-8588 tral/seneca.html winter months. Sun, 12N-5pm. www.nps.gov/choh www.historicmedley.org Seneca Schoolhouse Museum 16800 River Rd, Poolesville 20837 Fort Frederick State Park Western Maryland Rail Trail 301-972-8588, 1-800-925-0880 11100 Fort Federick Rd Fort Frederick State Park, 11100 Ft Mar-Dec: Sun, 1-5pm. Big Pool, 21711 Frederick Rd, Hancock 21711 www.historicmedley.org 301-842-2155, (TDD) 301-974-3683 301-842-2155 Apr-Oct: 8am-sunset; Nov-Mar: Mon- Apr 1-Oct 31: 8am-sunset; Nov 1-Mar Fri, 8am-sunset; Sat-Sun and holidays, 31, 10am-sunset. 10am-sunset. www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wm www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes rt.html tern/fortfrederick.html John Poole House Green Ridge State Forest 19923 Fisher Ave, Poolesville 20837 28700 Headquarters Dr NE 301-972-8588 Flintstone 21530 Sun, 12N-5pm. 301-478-3124, (TTY) 410-974-3683 www.historicmedley.org Dawn-dusk

38 As the autumn of 1862 approached, Army of Northern Virginia crossed the White’s Ferry to Poolesville – President Abraham Lincoln felt he Potomac River into Maryland, and MD 107 & 109 needed a decisive Union victory to ending two weeks later as Lee’s General Lee understood the advan- 126 miles from ensure that there would be support forces limped back into West Virginia. tages of a military strike into Federal White’s Ferry to for a yet-to-be-announced proclama- It follows one of four Maryland Civil territory: it would allow time for Sharpsburg tion freeing the slaves. It’s still debat- War Trails (another, Booth’s Escape, farmers in war-torn Virginia to com- able just how decisive the slaughter appears as a byway on pages 115- plete their fall harvest, and a victory at Antietam – remembered as “The 120). Each trail brings you face to on Union soil might gain foreign sup- Bloodiest Single Day of the Civil War” face with both familiar and lesser- port for the Southern cause. Though – truly was. By sheer numbers, the known Civil War stories, while also Lee’s ensuing Campaign of 1862 Sept. 17 battle ended in a draw, with placing you among breathtaking came to a head in Sharpsburg, his 10,700 Confederates and 12,400 scenery while presenting convenient path to that Western Maryland town Union soldiers killed, wounded or recreational opportunities. This byway is strewn with sites of other signifi- missing in action. However, General is one of two Civil War Trails that cant confrontations. George McClellan’s Union army intersects Maryland’s Heart of the thwarted the Rebel advance north, Civil War Heritage Area, recognizing In early September, Confederate sol- The Antietam Campaign and a few days after the cannons fell South Mountain and its surrounding diers forded the Potomac River near byway is one of two silent, Lincoln visited the battlefield. valleys as the crossroads of the Civil the present-day position of White’s Civil War Trails that War in the state. For a free map Ferry, which was established in 1828 intersects Maryland’s This byway roughly follows the guide to Maryland Civil War Trails, and still remains hard at work trans- chronology of events beginning Sept. call 1-888-248-4597 or go online at porting modern-day conveyances and Heart of the Civil War 4, as General Robert E. Lee and his www.visitmaryland.org. people. Not long after, Union horse- Heritage Area.

40 men probing for enemy infantry Barnesville were disrupted by running ment was cut short by reports of cultural and commercial district, clashed with Rebel cavalry beyond the cavalry fights, until Confederate riders Union cavalry in the area. Frederick has been recognized by the C&O Canal in Poolesville. It would be finally concluded a successful rear- National Trust for Historic Preservation one of several times Poolesville resi- guard action in Comus on Sept. 11. Between US 270 and MD 355 on the as a “Great American Main Street” dents witnessed Civil War action up The byway then cuts back across road into Frederick, you’ll find the award winner. Among its many close: a year earlier, Union troops had Sugarloaf Mountain, where signal- Monocacy National Battlefield. attractions are the National Museum assembled here before being ferried men from both armies were often Perhaps better known as the site of of Civil War Medicine and the into Virginia for the Battle of Ball’s stationed, to the town of Dickerson. the July 9, 1864, conflict dubbed Barbara Fritchie House and Museum. Bluff, and a year later, J.E.B. Stuart’s Here along MD 28, you’ll find the “The Battle that Saved Washington,” Fritchie was a 95-year-old widow Confederate cavalry stormed through Monocacy River Natural Resource Monocacy also played a key role in when, according to a famous poem on its way to Gettysburg, Management Area, which offers the Antietam struggle. Ask at the by John Greenleaf Whittier, she defi- Pennsylvania. Several historic struc- hunting, fishing, hiking, horseback battlefield visitors center for details antly waved an American flag from tures around Poolesville hearken back riding, and a link into the C&O Canal about Lee’s “lost orders,” which had her window as General Stonewall to the mid-19th century, with Civil byway (see pages 27-38). been mistakenly left behind at an Jackson and his Confederate troops War exhibits found inside the circa- abandoned Confederate camp. The moved through town. 1793 John Poole House. Onward came the Rebel troops, orders were discovered by a Federal camping in Carrollton Manor and private and given to General Here, the byway follows a portion of Poolesville to Frederick – feasting on bread baked in McClellan, who used the information US 40 – the Historic National Road – MD 109, Comus Rd, Mt. Buckeystown. To the east in Urbana, to his advantage at Antietam. through Braddock Heights before Ephraim Rd, 28, MD 109, 28, 85 men of Stuart’s cavalry hosted a branching off toward South Michael’s Mill Rd, Baker Valley Sabers and Roses Ball at the Landon Frederick to Boonsboro – US 40 Mountain State Park. Three days prior Rd, 355 House, which remains a popular & US 40 Alt, MD 17 & 67 to Antietam, battles were fought Small communities in Beallsville and “special event” spot. But their merri- Featuring a quaint, 50-block historic, along three South Mountain “gaps,”

42 43 with some of the wounded, including As dawn broke on Sept. 17, 1862 pre-Civil War raid of the U.S. Armory Barbara Fritchie House and future President Rutherford B. Hayes, battle lines were drawn near and Arsenal at Harpers Ferry. You can Museum removed to homes and churches in Antietam Creek – Lee’s 41,000 sol- reach the Harpers Ferry National 154 W Patrick St, Frederick 21701 Burkittsville and Middletown, which diers with their backs to the Potomac, Historic Park by heading south from 301-698-8992 served as makeshift hospitals. against a Federal army more than Sharpsburg on Harpers Ferry Road. Apr-Sept: Mon, Thur-Sun, 10am-4pm; Crampton’s Gap, today encompassed twice that size. By dusk, one of every Brown’s raid, though ultimately Oct-Nov: Sat, 10am-4pm; Sun, 1- by Gathland State Park, serves as five fighting men had fallen. The unsuccessful, became an anti-slavery 4pm. home to the War Correspondents Union dead are buried at the rallying cry during the war. Memorial Arch, erected on the one- Antietam National Cemetery, with Boonsborough Museum of History OLD LINE LORE: time estate of Civil War journalist and many Confederate soldiers laid to rest The Monocacy 113 N Main St, Boonsboro 21713 nationally renowned author George in nearby Hagerstown. Aqueduct, the largest such structure on 301-432-6969 Alfred Townsend. Travel over the the C&O Canal, was twice a target of May-Sept: Sun, 1-5pm; or by appt. mountain to Boonsboro, which A thorough tour of the beautifully Confederate demolition crews during the includes a museum displaying local preserved Antietam National Antietam Campaign, but both attempts Gathland State Park Civil War relics. Battlefield – from the cornfield and to destroy it failed. Granite blocks that MD 67 (c/o Greenbrier State Park, Dunker Church to Burnside Bridge were used to construct the aqueduct had 21843 National Pike, Boonsboro Boonsboro to Sharpsburg – and the “Bloody Lane” – requires sev- been quarried from nearby Sugarloaf 21713) MD 34 eral hours, especially when combined Mountain. 301-791-4767 Heading toward their confrontation in with a tour of the Pry House Field 8am-sunset. Sharpsburg, both armies passed Hospital Museum. Also plan to stop Antietam National Battlefield www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes- through Keedysville, which was also at the Kennedy Farmhouse, the stag- 5831 Dunker Church Rd, Sharpsburg tern/gathland.html where many wounded were treated ing area for abolitionist John Brown 21782 in Antietam’s aftermath. and his small army as they planned a 301-432-5124 Year-round, daily, 8:30am-5pm. 44 www.nps.gov/anti 45 John Poole House Clopper Rd, Gaithersburg 20878) South Mountain Battlefield 19923 Fisher Ave, Poolesville 20837 301-924-2127 State Park 301-972-8588 Dawn-dusk. (c/o Greenbrier State Park, 21843 Sun, 12N-5pm. www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen- National Pike, Boonsboro 21713) www.historicmedley.org tral/monocacy.html 301-791-4767 Dawn-dusk. Kennedy Farm House (John National Museum of Civil War www.dnr .state.md.us/publiclands/wes Brown HQ) Medicine tern/southmountain.html 2406 Chestnut Grove Rd, Sharpsburg 48 E Patrick St, Frederick 21701 21782 301-695-1864, 800-564-1864 White’s Ferry May-Oct: interior tours by appt. only. Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm; Sun, 11am- 24801 White’s Ferry Rd, MD 107, www.johnbrown.org 5pm. Dickerson 20842 www.civilwarmed.org 301-349-5200 Monocacy National Battlefield Daily, 5am-11pm. 4801 Urbana Pike, Rt 355 S, Frederick Pry House Field Hospital Museum 21704 18906 Shepherdstown Pike, 301-662-3515, 301-662-6980 Sharpsburg 21782 8am-4pm. 301-695-1864, 800-564-1864 www.nps.gov/mono May: weekends, 11am-5:30pm; Memorial Day-Halloween: daily, Monocacy River Natural Resource 11am-5:30pm; Nov 1-Dec 2, week- Management Area ends, 11am-5:30pm. (c/o Seneca Creek State Park, 11950 www.civilwarmed.org

46 buildings. Nearby, you will find the visit with lemurs, mon- While the hardwood forests encircling sites, the state’s highest waterfall, and National Shrine Grotto of Lourdes, keys, panthers and more Catoctin Mountain are a natural won- abundant trails for hiking and biking. which is situated high on the moun- than 400 other animals. der, serving as a sanctuary for wildlife tainside, where nature displays itself Emmitsburg to Point of Rocks – 95 miles from and plants, surrounding towns offer a in all its wild and picturesque glory. Back on US 15 and enter- US 15, MD 806, US 340, US 15 Emmitsburg to deep exploration of the area’s rich ing Frederick, this byway Point of Rocks industrial heritage. The mountain’s Just south of the Pennsylvania border Continue south to see the circa-1856 overlaps with two others – old paths and roads trace a variety of is Emmitsburg. To orient you to the Roddy Road Covered Bridge, which the Antietam Campaign traditional Appalachian entrepreneur- heritage and culture throughout this stretches for 40 feet over one of the (pages 39-46) and Historic ial endeavors, including farms, byway, a great place to start your area’s finest trout streams. Here, you National Road (pages 7- sawmills and the making of moon- adventure is at the Mason and Dixon can branch off from US 15 onto MD 18). The town has seem- shine. Discovery Center. During the Civil 77 and enjoy an Upper Loop tour ingly played a part in every War, troops passed through this area that traverses both a national park major chapter of American Catoctin Mountain – the easternmost while going to and from the Battle of and a state park. The Upper Loop is history for the last 260 spur of the Blue Ridge Province – rises Gettysburg. Union troops camped on connected via MD 17 to a Lower years. Guided walking to its greatest elevation of 1,885 feet the grounds of the former St. Loop that touches the Appalachian tours and candlelight above sea level in Thurmont’s Joseph’s College, and officers planned National Scenic Trail. See descriptions ghost tours take visitors Catoctin Mountain Park and then is battle strategies in the former home for both the Upper Loop and Lower past breathtaking architec- split by a gap at Point of Rocks on of the school’s founder, Elizabeth Ann Loop below. ture and several sites the Potomac River. In between, travel- Seton. A National Shrine honors linked to celebrated ers on this state and national scenic Mother Seton, who was the first Nearby is the 50-acre Catoctin “locals” such as “Star- byway can follow two “loops” for American-born saint, has a visitor Wildlife Preserve and Zoo, where, for Spangled Banner” writer easy access to a variety of historic center, basilica and restored period nine months out of the year, you can Francis Scott Key and

48 49 Key’s father-in-law, Supreme Court tributary, Cunningham Falls. The On the south side of MD 77 is 550 through Blue Ridge Mountain Chief Justice Roger Brooke Taney. creek is a favorite among anglers Cunningham Falls State Park, the cen- forest and farmland toward Dozens of specialty shops, art gal- seeking trout. Catoctin Mountain terpiece of which is a 78-foot water- Sabillasville. The highway here was leries, antiques stores and restaurants Park, which lies to the north of the fall that cascades into a rocky gorge. originally called Old Gap Road and also occupy Downtown Frederick. highway, is federal property acquired Hike from a picnic area off Catoctin connected the Catoctin Furnace with in 1936 as an experiment in develop- Hollow Road, and also enjoy a swim forges in Pennsylvania. This byway concludes at Point of ing forest on marginal land. The in the 43-acre Hunting Creek Lake. At Rocks, which achieved national Camp David presidential retreat locat- the southern end of the park is the Lower Loop from Smithsburg – recognition in 1830 when the B&O ed here is closed to the public, but Catoctin Furnace, which was in oper- MD 17, Highland School Rd, Railroad and C&O Canal fought over several nearby paths trace the history ation from 1776 until 1905, and once Gambrill Park Rd, US 40, MD 17 the right of way between Catoctin of the industrial use of the mountain. was manned by African craftsmen. Travel over South Mountain into Mountain and the Potomac River. The Near the park’s visitor center, a short Trails lead to a furnace stack and the Wolfsville, and then continue south railroad finally tunneled through the interpretive trail takes you to the Blue iron master’s manor house. on MD 17, skirting the pastoral valley mountain in 1867, but you can pick Blazes Still, where moonshine makers carved by Middle Creek. Bear left on up the C&O Canal scenic byway turned out 25,000 gallons of corn Pass through the town of Smithsburg, Highland School Road, which crosses (pages 27-38) here at its midway whiskey before the still was raided which, when founded in 1806 at the the summit of Catoctin Mountain, point. and shut down in 1929. At the other base of South Mountain, served as a and then turn right to enter Gambrill end of the park is a sawmill replica banking and trading center for the State Park. Pause on the 1,600-foot Upper Loop from Thurmont – built on the site of a real sawmill that area’s fruit growers. Follow MD 491 summit of High Knob to view MD 77, 491 & 550 operated into the late 1890s. Other beyond Cascade and into Pen Mar. Middletown and the Monocacy Valley Head west on MD 77 to cross trails explore the wood-cutting indus- The Western Maryland Railway devel- stretched out below, and also enjoy Catoctin Mountain and ascend beside try and the life of colliers who prac- oped this area as a mountain resort hiking and mountain biking through- cool, clear Big Hunting Creek and its ticed charcoal making. and amusement park. Next, take MD out the area.

50 51 Don’t put away your hiking boots just retreat during World War II and named Catoctin Mountain Park Frederick, 21702 yet, because you’ll soon be coming “Shangri-La.” Dwight Eisenhower MD Rt 77, 6602 Foxville Rd 301-271-7574 up on one of the premier hiking renamed the presidential retreat Camp Thurmont, 21788 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes opportunities in the United States. David after his grandson. 301-668-9388 tern/gambrill.html The Appalachian National Scenic Trail www.nps.gov/cato stretches more than 2,000 miles from Blue Blazes Whiskey Still Greenbrier State Park Maine to Georgia, and Maryland’s 40- Catoctin Mountain Park Catoctin Wildlife Preserve 21843 National Pike mile portion passes near Greenbrier 6602 Foxville Rd and Zoo Boonsboro, 21713 State Park. Follow US 40 to Thurmont, 21788 13019 Catoctin Furnace Rd 301-791-4767 Greenbrier, which also features a 42- 301-663-9388 Thurmont, 21788 www.dnr.state.us/publiclands/west- acre freshwater lake, as well as www.nps.gov/cato 301-271-3180 ern/greenbrier.html “mountain stones” that provide a www.cupzoo.com glimpse into the earth’s geologic his- Catoctin Furnace National Shrine of St. Elizabeth tory. From Greenbrier, take Route 17 Cunningham Falls State Park Cunningham Falls State Park Ann Seton to complete the lower loop and join Catoctin Furnace Rd, Rt 806 14039 Catoctin Hollow Rd 333 S Seton Ave MD 77. Thurmont, 21788 Thurmont, 21788 Emmitsburg, 21727 301-271-7574 301-271-7574 301-447-6606 OLD LINE LORE: Camp Hi www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclans/west- www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes www.setonshrine.org Catoctin, in what was then known as the ern/cunninghamfalls.html tern/cunninghamfalls.html Catoctin Recreational Demonstration Area, was adapted by President Franklin Gambrill State Park D. Roosevelt as his personal mountain US Rt 40, 3 miles west of Federick, Gambrill Park Rd

52 53 Roddy Road Covered Bridge North of Thurmont, off US 15 Thurmont, 21788 301-228-2888, 1-800-999-3613 www.visitfrederick.org

Roger Brooke Taney & Francis Scott Key Museum 121 S Bentz St Frederick, 21701 301-228-2828, 1-800-999-3613

54 during the 18th and early 19th cen- Thurmont, settled around 1751 by a White picket fences. Quiet, tree-lined turies. Beyond Main Street, along family moving west from streets. Rocking chairs on the front Seton Avenue, you can visit the Pennsylvania. A small tool manufac- porch. These are the sights associated National Shrine of St. Elizabeth Ann 111 miles from turing plant popped up, and then the with small-town U.S.A., and they’re Seton, recognized as the first native- Emmitsburg to Western Maryland Railroad arrived in still available for you to see as you born American saint. Among the Mount Airy 1872. The surrounding land not only step back into a bygone era along restored period buildings on the features picnicking, play areas and this charming byway. Your tour, sepa- property are the 1810 White House, exceptional trout fishing in Catoctin rated into an Upper and Lower loop, circa-1750 Stone House, and Mountain and Cunningham Falls can include leisurely drives past wide- Mortuary Chapel from 1846. Your State Park, but also boasts three cov- open fields, window-shopping for spiritual journey continues with a ered bridges built in the mid 1800s – antiques, dining with “locals” at the stop at the National Shrine Grotto of Loy’s Station, Roddy Road and Utica eatery on the corner, and then drift- Lourdes. This “holy mountain sanctu- Mills. ing off to sleep on a four-post bed ary,” found on the campus of Mount inside a quaint country inn. Saint Mary’s University, was often vis- Heading east on MD 77, the old rail- ited by Mother Seton during her road town of Detour was developed Upper Loop from Emmitsburg – “rosary walks” in the early 1800s, around a sawmill and woolen mill, US 15, MD 77, 140, 832 & 140 and still attracts thousands of pilgrims both of which operated until 1849. The Emmitsburg Historic District, each year for prayer and meditation. Farther east, Uniontown is a 19th- which is comprised of more than 200 century rural village with numerous buildings, shows off many of the Follow the Catoctin Mountain byway country-style homes. The Uniontown architectural styles popular in America (page 47) south along US 15 to Academy, now serving as a museum,

56 57 is a former one-room schoolhouse, 140-acre Carroll County Farm Lower Loop from Uniontown – Conference Center offers a tranquil while down the road in Westminster Museum. In addition to farm displays MD 84, 75 & 31 retreat for numerous non-profit is McDaniel College, a liberal arts and and artisan demonstrations, the The Lower Loop of the Old Main groups, churches and families during sciences institution established in museum hosts special events such as Streets byway meets with the Upper the year. From there rejoin MD 84 to 1867. Originally known as Western the annual Maryland Wine Festival. Loop in Uniontown, then strikes complete the tour. Maryland College, it was the first co- Sidetracking north along MD 97, you south toward Linwood on MD 84. A Mount Airy Branch – MD 26, educational college south of the come to the Union Mills Homestead number of Victorian-era homes have Mason and Dixon Line. Summertime and Grist Mill, a Maryland Civil War smokehouses, windmills and icehous- 808 & 27, 26, Woodville Rd, is especially busy on campus, as spec- Trails site that explores the divided es. Following MD 75 to the west is Shirley Bohn Rd, Buffalo tators watch the Baltimore Ravens loyalties of the family that operated Union Bridge, where the Main Street- Rd, MD 808, which is Main football team conduct practice before the mill. based Western Maryland Railway Street the NFL season gets under way. Historical Society Museum is filled Below the Lower Loop, this byway The road back to Emmitsburg on MD with artifacts and memorabilia to branches off from Libertytown to Main Street in Westminster is home 140 rolls through Taneytown, an agri- accompany an N-scale model railroad. Unionville and then straddles the bor- to the Carroll County Arts Council, as cultural trading center established in der between Frederick and Carroll well as three 19th-century buildings 1762 by a relative of U.S. Supreme South on MD 75 beyond Johnsville is counties as it heads along Woodville, under the auspices of the Historical Court Justice Roger Brooke Taney. Libertyown, which was an old turn- Shirley Bohn and Buffalo roads. Look Society of Carroll County. Inside you’ll Settle here for the night in a historic pike stop as farmers carried grain to across the countryside for a trio of find an exhibition gallery, a research country inn or cozy bed and break- the Baltimore port. Next, you loop vineyards – Berrywine library and displays of historic toys fast. northeast on MD 31 toward New Plantations/Linganore Winecellars, Elk and dolls. Turning south onto Center Windsor, which was called Sulphur Run Vineyards and Loew Vineyards. Street affords a glimpse into the Springs when settled in the early 19th Take a tour of each operation, sample area’s agricultural heritage at the century. The historic New Windsor

58 59 the wine and settle down for a quiet www.linganore-wine.com 301-271-7574 McDaniel College picnic. www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes 2 College Hill Carroll County Arts Council tern/cunninghamfalls.html Westminster, 21157 MD 808 is Main Street for Mount 91 West Main Street 410-848-7000 Airy. Parks around town offer oppor- Westminster, 21157 Elk Run Vineyards www.mcdaniel.edu tunities for fishing, hiking and other 410-848-7272 15113 Liberty Rd recreation before you pick up MD 27 www.carr [email protected] Mount Airy, 21771 National Shrine Grotto of Lourdes and link into the Historic National 410-775-2513, 1-800-414-2513 Mount St. Mary’s College Road byway (page 7). Carroll County Farm Museum www.elkrun.com US Rt 15 South, 19 E Church St 500 S Center St Emmitsburg, 21727 OLD LINE LORE: The Utica Mills Westminster, 21157 Historical Society of Carroll County 301-447-5318 Covered Bridge spanned the nearby 410-386-3880, 1-800-654-4645 210 East Main St, www.msmary.edu/grotto Monocacy River until being washed away www.carrollcountyfarmmuseum.org Westminster, 21157 during a severe storm in 1889. The 410 -848-6494 National Shrine of St. Elizabeth remains of the 101-foot-long bridge were Catoctin Mountain Park www.hscc.carr.org/property/proper- Ann Seton gathered and reassembled at its present 6602 Foxville Rd ties.htm 333 Seton Ave location above Fishing Creek. Thurmont, 21788 Emmitsburg, 21727 301-663-9330, 301-663-9388 Loew Vineyards 301-447-6606 Berrywine Plantations/Linganore www.nps.gov/cato 14001 Liberty Rd, Rt 26 www.setonshrine.org Winecellars Mount Airy, 21771 13601 Glissans Mill Rd Cunningham Falls State Park 301-831-5464 Mount Airy, 21771 14039 Catoctin Furnace Rd www.loewvineyards.net 410-831-5889 Thurmont, 21788

60 61 New Windsor Conference Center P.O. Box 188, 500 Main St New Windsor, 21776 1- 800-766-1553, 410-635-8700 www.brethren.org/genbd/nwcc/

Western Maryland Railway Historical Society Museum 41 North Main St Union Bridge, 21791 410-775-0150, 410-356-9199 www.moosevalley.org/wmrhs

62 Charles Mason and Jeremiah Dixon Emmitsburg to Harkins – North on MD 97, the Union Mills cause while the other remained loyal for wine tastings, retail sales and spent nearly four years in the 1760s MD 140, MD 97, MD 496, MD Homestead and Grist Mill is a short to the North. many special events. Picking up MD helping to settle a land dispute by 30, York St, Miller Station Rd, sidetrack away. On the road to 25, you drive on a portion of the Falls surveying newly established bound- Alesia Rd, MD 25, Beckleysville 143 miles from Gettysburg, Union Mills holds Civil This byway continues through Road byway (page 71) until veering aries between Maryland, Rd, Kidds Schoolhouse, Spooks Emmitsburg to War significance for hosting both Melrose on its way to Manchester, a east toward Prettyboy Reservoir. The Pennsylvania, Virginia and Delaware. Hill Rd, Rayville Rd, Appleton Union and Confederate soldiers. At historic community featuring the fam- reservoir’s hiking trails, picnic areas In decades to come, the line they Middletown Rd, York Rd, the homestead, which is an important ily-owned Cygnus Wine Cellars. and scenic overlooks can be reached defined would become a symbol Wiseburg Rd, White Hall Rd, site on the Maryland Civil War Trail, Cygnus, one of more than 20 vine- from Beckleysville Road to Kidds throughout the United States for the MD 23, MD 136 one brother sided with the Southern yards throughout the state, is open Schoolhouse Road, and downstream cultural divide between North and Begin at the Mason and Dixon South. Discovery Center on US 15 to assist with all of your travel plans. Follow This easy-going byway, running west part of the Old Main Streets byway to east along the northern edge of (page 55) toward Westminster, where Maryland near its border with the Carroll County Farm Museum has Pennsylvania, takes a relaxing drive in been providing hands-on opportuni- the country and incorporates both ties to experience mid-19th-century historical encounters and recreational rural life for more than 40 years. endeavors. You’re also welcome to Several structures dot the farm’s 140 experience life “down on the farm,” acres, including a croquet lawn, fish enjoying the many fruits of pond and heirloom garden. Maryland’s agricultural entrepreneurs.

64 65 from the Prettyboy Dam is a catch- Hunt Valley to the Mason and Dixon Deer Creek Loop – MD 24, Grier Before returning to MD 24 and com- and-release fishing area that has been Line, with bike rentals available Nursery Rd, Cherry Hill Rd pleting the loop, travel through Forest rated among the best in the mid- through local vendors. Nearby is the On your way east, check out the Deer Hill. Farms in this rural area are Atlantic region for brown trout. Greystone Golf Course, a public, 18- Creek Loop, which runs south on MD known for their hayrides, corn mazes, hole venue noted for its natural 24 and loops around with a series of and fresh fruits and vegetables. Around White Hall, amid rolling farm- scenery. After a brush with the Horses lefthand turns. The loop begins along land and fenced horse fields, the & Hounds byway (page 77), you head the hills and valleys of the Eden Mill Harkins to Appleton – MD 136, byway overlaps with a portion of the north through Drybranch to Nature Center and Park, on the edge US 1, MD 273 Northern Central Rail Trail. This aban- Norrisville, and then parallel the of Deer Creek, a Scenic and Wild Bring a picnic basket and relax with a doned railroad bed is now a packed Pennsylvania Line heading toward River.A restored mill is the center- bottle of wine at Pylesville-based Fiore stone path running for 20 miles from Harkins. piece of the property, serving as the Winery, the winner of numerous launching point for canoe trips, hikes international honors. Then, depend- and nature programs. Next comes the ing on the season, your journey to a 855-acre Rocks State Park, located farm in the nearby town of Whiteford where Deer Creek has cut a gorge can yield pumpkins, pony rides, tasty 250 feet deep. A popular, 190-foot produce or cut-your-own Christmas rock-climbing cliff, known as the King trees. and Queen Seat, was once a ceremonial gathering place for the From Prospect, through Dublin, you Susquehannock Nation of Native brush against the Lower Americans. Tubing and fishing take Susquehanna Byway (page 83) place in the creek below. and come to the edge of the

66 67 Susquehanna River as it flows into Jeremiah Dixon surveyed a hard angle At 17-feet tall, Kilgore is the second Cygnus Wine Cellars the Chesapeake Bay. Spanning the at the borders of Maryland, highest free-falling waterfall in 3130 Long Lane waterway in Conowingo is one of the Pennsylvania and Delaware, you Maryland. Manchester, 21102 nation’s largest hydroelectric generat- arrive at the Fair Hill Natural Resource 410-768-3518, 410-766-4239 ing stations, and below the dam you Management Area, where one of the Applewood Farm are treated to some of the best small- few Mason and Dixon markers 4435 Prospect Rd Eden Mill Park and Nature Center mouth bass fishing in the country remain. Formerly owned by a mem- Whiteford, 21160 1617 Eden Mill Rd, Pylesville 21132 along the lower Susquehanna ber of the duPont family who was an 410-836-1140 410-638-3616 Heritage Greenway. Birder’s World avid equestrian, this 5,613-acre facili- www.applewoodfarm.org www.edenmill.org magazine also recommends this area ty was purchased by the state more for its winter birding opportunities. than 30 years ago. In addition to hav- Carroll County Farm Museum Fair Hill Natural Resource ing a turf course that hosts steeple- 500 S Center St Management Area Across the Conowingo Dam, Rising chases, timber runs and flat races, Westminster, 21157 300 Tawes Dr Sun offers a variety of recreational Fair Hill attractions include trout fish- 410-383-3880, 1-800-654-4645 Elkton, 21921 outlets, ranging from the peaceful ing at Big Elk Creek, admiring the www.carrollcountyfarmmuseum.org 410-398-1246 setting of the Plumpton Park Zoo to Foxcatcher Farm Covered Bridge, and www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen- the high-octane action found at Cecil hiking on an 80-mile trail system. Cecil County Dragway tral/fairhill.html County Dragway, a quarter-mile-long 1916 Theodore Rd strip sanctioned by the National Hot Rising Sun, 21911 Fiore Winery Rod Association. Old Line Lore: Kilgore Falls, 410-287-6280 3026 Whiteford Rd found in the Falling Branch area of www.cecilcountydragway.com Pylesville, 21132 Into the northeastern-most corner of Rocks State Park, was featured in the 410-879-4007 the state, where Charles Mason and Disney film Tuck Everlasting (2002). www.fiorewinery.com

68 69 Northern Central Rail Trail Union Mills Homestead and Gunpowder Falls State Park Grist Mill Monkton 3311 Littlestown Pike, MD 97 410-592-2897 Westminster, 21158 410-848-2288 Plumpton Park Zoo http://tourism.carr.org/unionmil.htm 1416 Telegraph Rd Rising Sun, 21911 410-658-6850 www.plumptonparkzoo.org

Rocks State Park 3318 Rocks Chrome Hill Rd Jarretsville, 21084 410-557-7994 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/central/rocks.html

70 campuses of Maryvale Preparatory Road leads to the village of Ruxton, For much of its length, Falls Road, or Alesia near the Prettyboy Reservoir. School and St. Paul’s School, you find which was settled in 1699. One of MD 25, follows the Jones Falls Valley Hiking, fishing and paddle sports are yourself amid an impressive array of the oldest African-American congre- from the rolling countryside of a few of the popular pursuits in this historic country estates scattered gations in Maryland meets at tiny St. 39 miles from Baltimore County to bustling area at the reservoir and at throughout the Green Spring Valley. John’s Church. Directly across Falls Prettyboy Reservoir Baltimore City. The Jones Falls was an Gunpowder Falls State Park. Next, Get a closer look with a quick side- Road from Ruxton is Rockland, a to Baltimore important source of power for grist your route winds through rolling track on MD 130 (Green Spring Valley National Register Historic District, and cotton mills in Baltimore’s early countryside into deep, stream-cut val- Road), and then return to Falls Road which takes its name from an 18th- days. A string of mills along the valley leys, leading you past an intersection as it approaches Brooklandville. century estate once owned by produced goods that were taken into with the Horses & Hounds byway Maryland’s first governor, Thomas town via the Falls Road Turnpike, and (page 77) and through the town of Ruxton to Baltimore – MD 25 Johnson. Rockland grew up around later the North Central Railroad. Butler. Stop and browse among the Passing through an intersection with the milling industry and has become Today, Falls Road remains mostly various antiques stores and specialty Joppa Road and the six-lane Jones a quiet community of impressive rural, providing easy access to histori- shops before moving on to the Falls Expressway (I-83), you approach stone buildings. cal and cultural attractions as country Oregon Ridge Nature Center and what looks like a medieval castle. The landscapes give way to a glittering Park. Marble quarries, iron ore pits Cloisters, a mansion built in 1932 Before crossing the Baltimore City cityscape. and an archaeology site are just one with a design based on late medieval line, Falls Road runs through Bare aspect of the 1,100-acre park, which French and English architecture, is Prettyboy Reservoir to Hills, a community that took its name also hosts outdoor events ranging used for weddings and other special from the chromate, copper and ser- Greenspring Valley – MD 25 from orchestral concerts to hot-air events. You are now inside the pentine rock mines that were active Briefly overlapping with the Mason balloon ascensions. Baltimore Beltway (I-695), but still in the area during the 1800s. The and Dixon byway (page 63), your Falls able to see many stately homes amid Bare Hills of today is a residential Road tour begins in the village of Heading south past the beautiful natural settings. A left turn on Ruxton neighborhood featuring Gothic revival

72 73 homes. Nearby you’ll find Robert E. Along 36th Street, the traditional OLD LINE LORE: The Roland Park Clipper Mill Lee Park and Lake Roland, a popular commercial artery within the village Shopping Center, built in 1896, is one 2010 Clipper Park Rd. summer destination for generations of Hampden, restaurants, shops and of America’s earliest shopping centers and Baltimore, 21211 of Baltimoreans. The park is not only galleries often cater to students and was the first to provide off-street parking. www.clippermill.net dog-friendly, but features several faculty coming from nearby Johns Stop by the bakery, the market, or one of miles of off-road running trails. Hopkins University. Other neighbor- the other shops. The Cloisters hoods in the area include Woodberry 10440 Falls Road Baltimore – MD 25 to Maryland and Brick Hill, both of which started Baltimore Clayworks Lutherville, 21094 Avenue out as housing for textile workers in 5707 Smith Avenue 410-821-7448 On the northwest outskirts of the city nearby Meadow Mill. Today, the mill Baltimore www.cloisterscastle.com/contact.aspx is what some sources consider to be itself houses an athletic club, a small 410-578-1919 one of Baltimore’s first suburb, Mount eclectic theatre, and non-profit www.baltimoreclayworks.org Gunpowder Falls State Park Washington. This eclectic village has groups with an artistic bent, such as 2813 Jerusalem Road, P.O. Box 483 tree-lined streets leading to bou- the Potters Guild of Baltimore and Baltimore Streetcar Museum Kingsville, 21087 tiques, galleries, taverns and outdoor the local Gem Cutters Guild. 1901 Falls Rd, Baltimore 21211 (410) 592-2897 cafés. Upscale shopping and outdoor 410-547-0264 www.dhr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen- dining are also in vogue at the Village Near the end of this byway is the www.baltimorestreetcar.org tral/gunpowder.html of Cross Keys, which you pass en Baltimore Streetcar Museum, which route to Roland Park. Local authors, chronicles 100 years of Baltimore Café Hon political figures and other notables Street railway history. You can also 1002 W. 36th Street have been known to make their jump to other byways within the city, Baltimore 21211 home here in this shaded retreat. including the National Historic 410-243-1230 Seaport (page 97) and Charles Street www.cafehon.ezsitemaster.com (page 89). 74 75 Oregon Ridge Nature Center Robert E. Lee Park & Lake Roland and Park Falls Rd at Lakeside Dr 13555 Beaver Dam Rd Baltimore, 21209 Cockeysville, 21030 410-396-7931 410-887-1815 www.oregonridge.org The Village of Cross Keys 5100 Falls Road Mount Washington Village Baltimore 21210 http://www.mtwashingtonvillage.com 410-323-1000

Potters Guild of Baltimore 3600 Clipper Mill Rd Baltimore 21211 410-235-4884, 410-235-4885 [email protected]

Prettyboy Reservoir 410-887-5683

76 The sounds of hunting horns and wildlife management pond, archaeol- on a hill overlooking the four-mile, baying hounds seem to echo among ogy site and excellent birding areas. 22-fence racecourse. the valleys and vistas of this route, as Shawan Downs, a premier equestrian if you’ve driven into the wide-open facility located on 300 acres of for- 100 miles from The humble, 19th-century town of English countryside. Though located mer farmland, attracts thousands of Shawan to Glyndon, found near Reisterstown, in an area traditionally known as hunt spectators each autumn for a series Cromwell Valley grew up as a popular summer com- country – fox hunting and steeple- of steeplechase races known as the munity accessible via the Western chase races are still popular here – Legacy Chase. Maryland Railroad. Up MD 128 is St. the farms you see along the way are John’s Episcopal Church, built in 1869 also famous for producing Along Tufton Avenue, country stores and serving as the site of a “Blessing Thoroughbreds that have raced on and farm markets offer an abundance of the Hounds” ceremony held each major tracks across America. of fresh fruits and vegetables during Thanksgiving Day. A drive along the growing season. Continue west Belmont Road takes you through a Shawan to Hereford – Tufton through Worthington Valley, an 18th- broad valley and past Sagamore Ave, Worthington Ave, MD 128, century farming area that is much as Farm, once among the country’s lead- Dover Rd, Trenton Rd, MD 88, it was when the ancestors of many ing Thoroughbred farms. Grace Rd, MD 137 & MD 45 current residents first settled here. Start your tour by leaving I-83 at Exit Just up the road, a world-famous On a three-mile timber course in 20 West, which takes you toward steeplechase race, the time-honored Butler, the century-old Grand National House, beyond rolling countryside, to Hereford Wildlands features steep- Shawan. First, plan to stop at the Maryland Hunt Cup, has been held Steeplechase is another springtime Hereford, a 19th-century village that sided valleys, rocky trails and an Oregon Ridge Nature Center and each spring since 1894. Fans enjoy an tradition. From there, the route pass- grew up around the York Pike. upland forest habitat for many Park, with its forest hiking trails, afternoon of tailgating and picnicking es through the small town of White Gunpowder Falls State Park’s species of birds. See local outfitters

78 79 about canoes, bikes, inner tubes, or grueling steeplechase courses in the winery, Hydes-based Boordy demonstration while touring the mill, complete guide services. country is found at My Lady’s Manor, Vineyards. Established in 1945, blacksmith shop and gun factory. which was property given by the third Boordy operates amid a cluster of Hereford to Jacksonville – Lord Baltimore to his fourth wife in 19th-century farm buildings, offering Your journey concludes in Towson, MD 138, Troyer Rd, Harford 1713. tours, wine tastings and special where the Hampton National Historic Creamery Road, Madonna Rd events throughout the year. Just up Site takes visitors back to 18th-centu- & MD 146 Begin to loop back to your starting Long Green Pike is St. John the ry high life. When the mansion was Enter Monkton by way of MD 138. point by turning right on Manor Evangelist Catholic Church. The struc- completed in 1790, it represented the Surrounded by horse farms and well- Road, or follow MD 146 south to ture you see today was built in 1855 height of post-Revolutionary War preserved estates, this historic mill Jacksonville, which is a commercial after the original church, established opulence, with gardens, an icehouse community along the Gunpowder center for the surrounding rural area. in 1822, burned down. Next, explore and stables. Original slave quarters Falls was once served by the North the scenic roadways of the Loch are also on site. Central Railroad. Today, a hiking and Jacksonville to Cromwell Valley – Raven Reservoir and Cromwell Valley, biking trail follows the abandoned MD 146, Dulaney Valley Rd, stopping to enjoy hiking, biking or Old Line Lore: Native Dancer, railroad bed up to the Pennsylvania Manor Rd, Hydes Rd, Long fishing. one of the top-ranked U.S. Thoroughbred line, linking into the Mason and Green Pike, Glen Arm Rd & champions of all time, is buried in a Dixon byway (page 63). Heading Cromwell Bridge Rd Sidetrack east along a portion of nondescript equine cemetery at Sagamore south on MD 146, visit the Ladew You’re still in “Horse Country” as you Gunpowder Falls State Park toward Farm in the Glyndon area. Nicknamed Topiary Gardens, featuring 22 acres head south on MD 146 from Kingsville and the historic Jerusalem “The Gray Ghost,” Native Dancer was of fancifully shaped shrubbery and 15 Jacksonville, but a variety of recre- Mill. A gristmill village remained busy the first horse made famous through tele- thematic flower gardens surrounding ational opportunities present them- in the area for nearly two centuries, vision and was also featured on the cover a historic manor house. Further selves at each turn. Take a picnic bas- beginning in 1772. Today you might of the May 31, 1954 Time magazine. south, one of the oldest and most ket along with you to Maryland’s first be able to catch a living-history

80 81 Boordy Vineyards Hampton National Historic Site Oregon Ridge Nature Center 12820 Long Green Pike 535 Hampton Lane and Park Hydes, 21082 Towson, 21286 13555 Beaver Dam Rd 410-592-5015 410-823-1309 Cockeysville, 21030 www.boordy.com www.nps.gov/hamp 410-887-1815 www.oregonridge.org Cromwell Valley Park Ladew Topiary Gardens Sherwood Farm and Park office 3535 Jarretsville Pike Shawan Downs 2002 Cromwell Bridge Rd Monkton, 21111 P.O. Box 433 Baltimore, 21234 410-557-9466 Lutherville-Timonium, 21094 410-887-2503 www.ladewgardens.com 410-666-3676 www.bcpl.net/~cvpark/ www.shawandowns.org/main/con- Loch Raven Reservoir tact/contact.htm Gunpowder Falls State Park 1201 Dulaney Valley Rd 2813 Jerusalem Rd Towson, 21402 Kingsville, 21087 410-887-5683 410-592-2897 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen- Northern Central Rail Trail tral/gunpowder/html Gunpowder Falls State Park 410-592-2897

82 One mile wide in some points, the Susquehanna Heritage Area promises To learn about the area’s seafaring Susquehanna River is the largest, opportunities to learn about Native heritage, visit the Havre de Grace non-navigable river in the United American and colonial life, as well as Maritime Museum and then walk out States, every minute pouring 19 mil- America’s fight for independence, 33 miles from to a waterfront promenade that leads lion gallons of fresh water into the maritime traditions and industrial Havre de Grace to past the fully restored, 180-year-old Chesapeake Bay. It’s a river with his- achievements. Perryville Concord Point Lighthouse, one of the tory, too, as European settlers estab- last beacons still in operation on the lished a prosperous fur trade here Havre de Grace to Conowingo East Coast. Other attractions either in with the Susquehannock Indians, Dam – MD 155, 161, Rock Run Havre de Grace or on the outskirts of which was the most powerful tribe of Rd, Stafford Rd, Shuresville Rd, town explore local agricultural tradi- the upper Chesapeake Bay at the US 1 tions (Steppingstone Museum), the time. The river port of Havre de Grace art of waterfowl decoy carving (Havre (“Harbor of Grace”) was well known de Grace Decoy Museum), and life in This byway begins west of the river to colonial travelers for its quality inns a lock house on the former where it meets the bay, runs north so and taverns. Even after most of the Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal that you can cross the Conowingo town’s buildings were either dam- (Susquehanna Museum of Havre de Dam, and then loops around to the aged or destroyed by the British dur- Grace). mighty Susquehanna’s eastern shore. ing the War of 1812, Havre de Grace As you follow historic transportation bounced back as an important center MD 155 gives way to MD 161 and routes, hike along shaded trails or for shipping and commerce. Today Rock Lodge Road and runs alongside cast a line for American and hickory the town offers waterfront restau- Susquehanna State Park, with it shad, your trip through the Lower rants and antiques shops. many mountain biking trails, easy

84 85 river-kayaking access, and quiet spots over the dam, you can continue north Follow Ararat Farm Road, and magazine has recommended the area for bass, perch and pike fishing. The to link into the Mason and Dixon Frenchtown Road into Perryville to around the dam as a top-notch winter 600-acre park is also home to histori- Byway (page 63) or turn south on visit the local railway museum. Down birding site. cal sites such as the circa-1794 Rock MD 222 toward Port Deposit, which the street is the early-18th-century Run grist mill, which features a 12- flourished in the first half of the 19th Rodgers Tavern, which, due to its Concord Point Lighthouse ton water wheel. century as a transit point for river delicious fare and proximity to a ferry Lafayette & Concord Sts freight. Built on a narrow bank boat landing, was a favorite stopping Havre de Grace, 21078 A sidetrack into the village of between the river and granite cliffs, place for George Washington, 410-939-9040 Darlington reveals dignified homes in this one-street town prospered from Lafayette and other Revolutionary fig- www.decoymuseum.com a classic, small-town setting, com- its mills and quarries. Look for the ures. In addition to the history, plete with tranquil tree-shaded Georgian-style Gerry House, which, in Perryville has a 30-store, brand-name Conowingo Dam & Hydroelectric streets. addition to being one of the oldest of outlet center and 18-hole, bayside Plant the town’s many 19th-century resi- golf course. Finally, walk to Perry PO Box 327 Conowingo Dam to Perryville – dences, is also known for entertaining Point and look out across the Conowingo, 21918 US 1, MD 222, Ararat Farm Rd, Revolutionary War hero, Major Susquehanna River for a grand view (410) 457-5011 Frenchtown Rd, MD 7 General Lafayette, as a guest in 1824. of Havre de Grace. http://esm.versar.com/pprp/power- Stop at the Conowingo Dam On a nearby bluff farther south along plants-new/conowingo.htm Overlook for a spectacular view of Main Street is an imposing brick-and- OLD LINE LORE: The Lower this 80-year-old engineering marvel, stone stairway that climbs for 75 Susquehanna Heritage Greenway Trail, Havre de Grace Decoy Museum and then enjoy a scenic hiking or bik- steps to provide a view of both the along a major hawk migration route in 215 Giles St ing trip along the mostly flat, 2.2-mile Susquehanna River and four bridges. the autumn, passes near a blue heron Havre de Grace, 21078 Lower Susquehanna Heritage rookery as it extends from the Conowingo 410-939-9739 Greenway Trail. After following US 1 Dam to Deer Creek. Birder’s World www.decoymuseum.com

86 87 Havre de Grace Maritime Museum Steppingstone Museum 100 Lafayette St 461 Quaker Bottom Rd Havre de Grace, 21078 Havre de Grace 410-939-4800 410-939-2299 www.hdgmartimemuseum.org www.steppingstonemuseum.org

Perryville Railway Museum Susquehanna Museum of Havre de Broad St. & Harford Ave. Grace 650 Broad Street 21903 Lock House, 817 Conesteo St (410) 642-6429 Havre de Grace, 21078 www.perryvillemd.org/railroad.htm 410-939-5780 www.lockhousemuseum.org Lower Susquehanna Heritage Greenway Trail Susquehanna State Park http://brokenclaw.com/biking/susque- Off Rt 155 hanna.html Havre de Grace, 21084 410-557-7994 Rodgers Tavern www.dnr.state.md.us./publiclands/cen 259 Broad St, Perryville 21903 tral/susquehanna.html 410-642-6066

88 Baltimore entertains millions of leisure Lutherville to Roland Park ulously escaped complete destruction narrow, winding streets lined with and business travelers each year. To the north, Charles Street appears iin the devastating Baltimore fire of elegant villas and mansions. Coming Many of them come for the steamed as a wooded parkway that begins just 1904. Further south is Friends School, up is the Homewood campus of crabs and sailing, but more have dis- above the Baltimore Beltway (I-695) 10 miles through which was founded in 1784, making internationally acclaimed Johns covered the world-renowned muse- and heads south into the heart of the Baltimore it the oldest school in Baltimore. Next Hopkins University, which features ums, captivating performing arts, Baltimore City Heritage Area with its you’ll see two notable institutions of more than 20 Georgian-style build- high-intensity professional sports, and eclectic neighborhoods, chic restau- higher learning with long traditions ings on its 100-acre campus. Visit the fine ethnic dining. Charles Street, rants and stately buildings. A side- of excellence. There’s the College of 200-year-old Homewood House Baltimore’s grandest and best-known track along Bellona Avenue leads into Notre Dame, which in 1895 became Museum to see fine furnishings and artery, takes you on a 10-mile journey the residential community of the nation’s first Catholic College for decorations from the 18th and 19th through some of the city’s most fash- Lutherville, where dozens of historic women, and then Loyola College, centuries, and then learn more about ionable cultural, residential and com- structures mingle with more modern founded by Jesuits in 1852. A slight America’s first sport at the Lacrosse mercial areas. Come experience homes. Or you can journey into detour at Greenway and Highfield Museum and National Hall of Fame. authentic Baltimore and stop to shop, Towson, with its popular shopping Road leads to the six-acre Sherwood dine, sightsee, and seek out world- areas, movie theaters and eateries. Gardens, where late-April rains bring Charles Village to Mount class entertainment. At the same Back on Charles Street, this byway thousands of tulips to bloom. Vernon Place time, take note of several institutions heads south past the Cathedral of Charles Village was developed in the whose influence extends beyond Mary our Queen, a massive stone Proceeding through Guilford, you’re late 19th century as one of Baltimore’s borders to the nation and church built in 1959 as a result of a able to make a grand approach via Baltimore’s first suburban neighbor- the globe. bequest made by Thomas O’Neill. University Parkway to the garden sub- hoods. Take time to admire Lovely O’Neill was an Irish born, multimil- urb of Roland Park. This late 19th- Lane Methodist Church, a Stanford lionaire merchant, whose store mirac- century residential community has White-designed building that contains

90 91 both a museum and archives. ue of George Washington. Other John Carroll blessed the laying of the Branching west on Art Museum monuments peek at you from nearby cornerstone of the Basilica, which is Drive, then to Wyman Park Drive and parks as you approach two more considered one of the finest examples Druid Hill Park, you get to visit several internationally recognized destina- of neo-classical architecture in the key destinations. First is the free- tions. To one side is the Walters Art world. admission Baltimore Museum of Art, Museum, which is also free and pres- with its sculpture gardens and world- ents 5,000 years of artistic achieve- As you approach Baltimore’s famous renowned collection of works by the ment. Across from the Walters, music waterfront area, other cultural attrac- likes of Matisse and Picasso. Next, and dance performances take place tions take center stage. 1st Mariner drive past the shaded lawns and pic- at the Hopkins-affiliated Peabody Arena, hosts concerts, sports events turesque water features of Druid Hill Institute. While in this area, take time and other entertainment. You can Park to get to the Maryland Zoo in to shop at distinctive boutiques and also slip around the corner at Eutaw Baltimore. See animals from the four dine at one of the numerous ethnic Street to take in Broadway produc- corners of the globe, and then walk, restaurants, all of which express the tions at the Hippodrome Theatre at climb, slide and hop through the chil- fashion and influence of “Charm the France-Merrick Performing Arts dren’s zoo. City”. Center. Cornerstone of Baltimore’s recent westside renaissance, the Back on Charles Street, Belvedere Charles Street is famous for its Hippodrome presents rich and diverse Row is an entire block of Queen Cathedral Hill Historic District. This events amid early 20th-century Anne-style rowhouses. This is fol- concentration of more than 100 cul- grandeur. lowed by Mount Vernon Place, the tural, educational, commercial and centerpiece of which is a 208-foot-tall religious buildings includes the monument topped by a 16-foot stat- Baltimore Basilica. In 1806, Bishop

92 93 Inner Harbor Area team, and M&T Bank Stadium, the Cathedral” because it was the first metro- www.heritagewalk.org/index_files/Pag Just north of the Inner Harbor is the roost of professional football’s politan-area place of worship constructed e1129.htm city’s historic financial district, which Baltimore Ravens. following adoption of the U.S. was a bustle of commercial activity Constitution. A recent major renovation Baltimore Visitor Center between 1900 and 1925. Today’s Around the Inner Harbor, among effort now accentuates much of the 401 Light Street downtown commercial center is a mix eateries, shops and numerous spots Basilica’s early 19th-century beauty as Baltimore, 21202 of old and new, highlighting One to relax at water’s edge, attractions envisioned by original designer Benjamin 1-877-BALTIMORE Charles Center, a striking metal and include the Maryland Science Center, Latrobe, architect of the U.S. Capitol. www.baltimore.org/visitors/v_vc.html glass building designed by Ludwig the National Aquarium in Baltimore, Mies van der Rohe, widely regarded and Port Discovery, The Children’s 1st Mariner Arena Cross Street Market as a pioneer of modern architecture. Museum. Learn about these destina- 201 W. Baltimore S 10655 Charles St tions, as well as guided “Heritage Baltimore, 21201 Baltimore, 21230 Have a hankering for pigs’ ears, pick- Walk” tours of the Inner Harbor area 410-347-2020 www.southbaltimore.com/shop/cross led eggs or oxtails? These and other and Little Italy neighborhood, at the www.baltimorearena.com/contact- mkt.html 1st-mariner-arena.shtml foodstuffs are often available at the Inner Harbor-based Baltimore Visitor Baltimore, 21230 The Hippodrome Theatre at the Cross Street Market. Or venture into Center. You can also take this oppor- 410-727-6000, 410-625-1600 Baltimore Basilica France-Merrick Performing Arts the surrounding bohemian neighbor- tunity to see more of Baltimore by www.artbma.org hood to find chic taverns, restaurants linking into the National Historic 408 North Charles St Center Baltimore, 21201 and brew pubs. All of this is located Seaport Byway (page 97). Baltimore Heritage Walk 12 N Eutaw St 410-767-3565 e, 21201 virtually in the shadows of Baltimore’s 800 East Lombard St Baltimor OLD LINE LORE: 410-625-6249 two great outdoor sports venues: The Baltimore Baltimore, 21202 Baltimore Museum of Art http://www.france- Oriole Park at Camden Yards, home Basilica, which celebrated its bicentenni- 443-514-5900 of the Baltimore Orioles baseball al in 2006, is known as “America’s First Art Museum Dr at Charles and 31st sts merrickpac.com/home.html

94 95 Homewood House Museum National Aquarium in Baltimore Port Discovery 3400 N Charles St 5021 East Pratt St 35 Market Pl Baltimore, 21218 Baltimore, 21202 410-727-8120 410-516-5589 410-576-3800, 410-576-3833 www.portdiscovery.org www.jhu.edu/historichouses www.aqua.org Sherwood Gardens Lovely Lane Museum National Lacrosse Museum and Highfield Rd & Greenway 2200 St. Paul St Hall of Fame 4100 Greenway Baltimore, 21218 113 W. University Parkway Baltimore, 21212 410-889-4458 Baltimore, 21210 410-785-0444 www.lovelylanemuseum.com 410.235.6882 http://www.uslacrosse.org/museum/in Walters Art Museum Maryland Science Center dex.phtml 600 N Charles St Inner Harbor Baltimore, 21201 Baltimore, 21230 Peabody Institute 410-547-9000 410-545-5927 1 E Mount Vernon Pl www.TheWalters.org www.mdsci.org Baltimore, 21202 410-659-8100 Maryland Zoo in Baltimore www.peabody.jhu.edu Druid Hill Park Baltimore, 21217 410-366-LION www.marylandzoo.org

96 Baltimore is a beacon to the world. Canton to Fells Point – Continue past Butchers Hill, a 19th- As one of America’s oldest seaports, O’Donnell St, Boston St, century neighborhood of brick row- it has witnessed four centuries’ worth Aliceanna St, Wolfe St, houses overlooking the harbor, and of historical highlights and cultural Thames St, Broadway Seven miles along find Broadway so that you can follow the Baltimore transformations. Everywhere you Since the early 1700s, ships from it into the National Historic District of waterfront look, you see evidence of the city’s countless foreign ports have been Fells Point. This famous strip of cafés, maritime roots and ethnic diversity attracted by this natural, deep-water markets, pubs and specialty shops mingled with a wide variety of shops, port, forever influencing the city. Start was a busy shipbuilding center in the restaurants, attractions and entertain- your tour at O’Donnell Street and 18th and 19th centuries, producing ment venues. Waterfront communi- travel through the heart of Canton, many Baltimore clipper schooners. ties connected by this byway share with its many restaurants, shops and Enjoy a visit to the Frederick rich traditions that only enhance their taverns. In the 19th century, Canton Douglass-Isaac Myers Maritime Park continued vitality. was notable for its canneries, fertilizer and learn about African-American plants and manufacturing facilities maritime history, the story of In addition to being at the heart of that employed German, Irish, Polish Frederick Douglass’s transition from Baltimore City’s heritage area, the and Welsh immigrants. The former enslaved child to educated young National Historic Seaport of Baltimore man, and Chesapeake Bay ship-build- American Can Company, once a Little Italy to Inner Harbor – the southern end of Little Italy. This connects a dozen tightly knit muse- ing traditions. A stop at the Fells major manufacturing complex, now Fleet, President, Lombard & vibrant ethnic village surrounding ums and attractions that are the Point Maritime Museum takes you houses a combination of specialty Light sts Fleet Street offers restaurants, cafés focus of a partnership with the Living even deeper into the lives of ship- shops and offices. In the shadow of the tower atop St. and grocery stores with a delectable Classrooms Foundation together with builders, sailors, merchants and Leo’s Catholic Church, a neat line of Italian flavor. At the intersection of the City of Baltimore and State of privateers. rowhouses lets you know you’re on Fleet and President streets, visit the Maryland. 98 99 Baltimore Civil War Museum- its kind on the East Coast. Picking up on the 27th floor of Baltimore’s from the Inner Harbor-based President Street Station. This Lombard Street and turning left on World Trade Center, and enjoy a Baltimore Visitor Center. Maryland Civil War Trails site served Light Street, the numerous shops, panoramic view. You can take a the railroad line that Frederick eateries and attractions of the Inner water taxi. And there are even occa- Federal Hill to Locust Point – Douglass used to carry him from slav- Harbor come into view. Outside the sional opportunities to sail aboard Key Hwy, Fort Ave. ery to freedom in the north. Here, in National Aquarium in Baltimore, Maryland’s Pride of Baltimore II, a Along Key Highway, another picture- April 1861, Union soldiers arrived in which recently opened a permanent reproduction of an 1812-era clipper perfect view of the Inner Harbor is Baltimore to be met by an angry mob “Animal Planet Australia” wing, you privateer. This also marks the trail- available from Federal Hill. This van- of Southern sympathizers. The ensu- can admire a lighthouse, submarine, head of the Historic National Road on tage point was fortified by the Union ing riot resulted in 16 deaths – the Coast Guard cutter and lightship that page 7. army at the beginning of the Civil first bloodshed of the Civil War. are all part of the Baltimore Maritime War, but today it’s a quiet place to sit Museum. Then climb on board the Stepping into the past is also very or stroll. Then, beyond the popular Near where President meets Pratt USS Constellation, which was easy, thanks to the Baltimore Heritage Maryland Science Center on the Street (which is one way going west launched in 1854 to become the last Walk. This looping, 3.2-mile trail, south side of the harbor area, two to east), the Flag House and Star- all-sail ship built by the U.S. Navy. which is marked every 20 feet by dis- more museums have earned national Spangled Banner Museum tells the tinctive disks embedded in the side- recognition. At the Baltimore story of Mary Pickersgill sewing the There are several ways to see these walk, connects 20 historic sites and Museum of Industry, visitors get 30-foot by 42-foot flag that flew so and other waterfront attractions museums, many of which are men- hands-on experience with technolo- proudly over the ramparts at nearby besides driving. You can “Ride the tioned in this byway. Take a self-guid- gies once used in printing, glass mak- Fort McHenry. Virtually next door is Ducks,” which is a land-and-sea ed tour, or, from May through ing, oyster canning, and more. Then, the Reginald F. Lewis Museum of sightseeing tour on an amphibious November, join a guided walk that for something completely different, Maryland African American History vehicle. You can climb to the Top of covers half of the route and leaves the American Visionary Art Museum and Culture, the largest museum of the World Observation Level, located

100 101 brings some of the United States’ Scott Key to write our National Baltimore Civil War Museum- Fort McHenry National Monument best, self-taught artistry to the fore- Anthem. President Street Station and Historic Shrine front. 601 President St, Baltimore 21202 2400 E Fort Ave, Baltimore 21230- 410-385-5188 5393 This byway concludes at Locust Point, OLD LINE LORE: The Seven-Foot www.mdhs.org 410-962-4290 where, prior to World War I, thou- Knoll Lighthouse, which is now part of www.nps.gov/fomc sands of immigrants arrived and the Baltimore Maritime Museum, was Baltimore Maritime Museum either took a train west or stayed in originally situated more than 150 years Piers 3 & 5, Baltimore 21231 Frederick Douglass-Isaac Myers Baltimore to make a new life. In fact, ago at the mouth of the Patapsco River, 410-396-3453 Maritime Park Locust Point was second only to New where Lightkeeper Thomas Steinheise res- www.baltomaritimemuseum.org 1417 Thames St, Baltimore 21231 York’s Ellis Island as a receiving point cued five men from a tugboat during a 410-685-0295 for European immigrants. They raging storm in 1933. Steinheise was Baltimore Museum of Industry www.douglassmyers.org passed the star-shaped fort that awarded a Congressional Medal, the 1415 Key Hwy, Baltimore 21230- played a crucial role in the defense of highest civilian honor. 5100 Pride of Baltimore II Baltimore during the War of 1812. 410-727-4808 Inner Harbor (when in port) Today, the Fort McHenry National American Visionary Art Museum www.thebmi.org Baltimore 21202 Monument and Historic Shrine, which 800 Key Hwy, Baltimore 21230-3940 410-539-1151, 1-888-554-7433 is also one of the final stops on the 410-244-1900 Fells Point Maritime Museum www.marylandspride.org Star-Spangled Banner byway (see www.avam.org 1724 Thames St, Baltimore 21231 page 105), is still admired each year 410-732-0278 by thousands of travelers who want www.mdhs.org to see the place that inspired Francis

102 103 Reginald F. Lewis Museum of USS Constellation Museum Maryland African American Pier 1, 301 E Pratt St, Baltimore History and Culture 21202 830 E Pratt St, Ste 400, Baltimore 410-539-1797 21202 www.constellation.org 443-263-1800 www.africanamericanculture.org

Ride the Ducks of Baltimore 25 Light St, Ste 300, Baltimore 21202 410-727-3825 www.baltimoreducks.com

Top of the World Observation Level World Trade Center, 401 E Pratt St, 27th Fl, Baltimore 21202-3016 410-837-VIEW www.bop.org

104 Follow a scenic, 100-mile trail that meaning you have easy access to Navy respond with a returns you to the waning days of the numerous bay-based recreational fleet of lightly armed, War of 1812, also known as opportunities just beyond the histori- shallow-draft barges “America’s Second War of cal landmarks. 106 miles from that would be faster Independence.” As fighting contin- Solomons to and more maneuverable ued throughout the summer of 1814 This byway follows a northerly course, Baltimore than enemy vessels. (just a few months prior to the war’s tracing the chronology of the Barney was subsequent- conclusion), Maryland’s brave defend- Chesapeake Campaign as British ly promoted to com- ers not only stood strong against troops made their way along the bay, modore and, by May British invaders up and down the leading up to the perilous fight in 1814, took charge of Chesapeake Bay, but also inspired the Baltimore made famous by Francis his new “Chesapeake poem that would become our Scott Key’s “Star-Spangled Banner.” Flotilla.” National Anthem. Solomons to Benedict – In Solomons, which is a More information about key sites MD 2/4, MD 264, Grays Road, marina-rimmed fishing along this route is available in a MD 506, Sixes Road, MD 231 village with fine seafood brochure entitled, “Star-Spangled The War of 1812 had been raging for dining and a number of Banner Trail: War of 1812 less than a year when British Navy intriguing attractions, Chesapeake Campaign” are available ships blockaded the Chesapeake Bay. the Calvert Marine by calling 1.866.772.1812. Many of Capt. Joshua Barney, a hero of the Museum has exhibits these destinations are also part of the American Revolution, came out of that feature war arti- Chesapeake Bay Gateways Network, retirement to suggest that the U.S. facts and trace troop

106 movements as Barney fought futilely strations of crafts and trades of the Benedict to against a larger and more heavily period. For a closer observation of the Baltimore – MD 381, armed British force. Also, stop by the region’s unique environment, take a MD 382, US 301, Solomons Regional Information hike along a boardwalk through the MD 4, I-495, MD 202 , Center, a Chesapeake Bay Gateways Battle Creek Cypress Swamp I-295 Ostend & site, for more history of the area and Sanctuary, located along MD 506 Hanover sts, & Fort details about other places to visit. near Prince Frederick. The town itself Ave was burned by British raiders. With Washington, D.C. Near Lusby, where you can hunt for as their goal, British fossils at Calvert Cliffs State Park or By July 1814, Royal Marines occupied forces occupied the go fishing at Flag Ponds Nature Park, Chaptico, Leonardtown and other tobacco port town of follow a branch south on MD 265 to Southern Maryland locations, raiding Lower Marlboro and Jefferson Patterson Park and private homes and confiscating linked their Army and Museum. This archaeology and histo- tobacco, flour and firearms. The fol- Navy for the first time in ry center tells of two battles that lowing month found more than nearby Upper Marlboro. occurred in June 1814 and almost 4,000 enemy troops probing deeper Today, treat yourself to a resulted in the capture of Barney’s along the Patuxent River, seeking a spectacular view of the flotilla. Each September, Jefferson suitable landing spot for an invasion Patuxent River from the Patterson Park and Museum hosts a of Washington, D.C. They chose Mount Calvert Historical War of 1812 Tavern Night celebra- Benedict, a riverside town known as and Archaeological Park, tion, as well as a commemorative much for its fishing, sailing and and then enjoy a variety “Battle of St. Leonard Creek” re- seafood restaurants as its War of of recreational and enactment, which includes demon- 1812 history. cultural opportunities 108 around town. Next, tour Croom their lights and hung lanterns in trees British forces soon Airport, the first African-American north of town. entered Washington, owned and operated airport on the D.C., unopposed, burned eastern seaboard. Upper Marlboro is Other relevant destinations are found many of the public build- also popular among equestrians who just to the west, at places like Fort ings, and then returned to ride on miles of trails in local parks Washington. But the main line of this the town of Benedict to and attend events at the Prince byway heads north into Bladensburg, re-embark their ships. George’s Equestrian Center/Show where a waterfront park provides nice Your route, however, America’s “Second War of a large American flag – measuring 42 Place Arena. views of the narrow, Anacostia River follows the Baltimore Washington Independence” lit up Baltimore in feet by 30 feet – still fluttered over bridge that British forces crossed to Parkway (MD 295), planned in the September 1814. Expecting to cruise the fort’s ramparts. At sunset on most An ambitious sidetrack east not only attack American defenses during the 1920s as part of the federal govern- with little resistance into the city’s days, visitors to the Fort McHenry takes you to the Roots & Tides byway Battle of Bladensburg, August 24, ment’s parkway system for harbor, a British fleet was instead National Monument and Historic (page 121) but allows you to hear 1814. Having scuttled their Washington, D.C. The parkway exem- frustrated by Lt. Col. George Shrine can hear the playing of Key’s more War of 1812 tales at sites in Chesapeake Flotilla to join the land- plifies the aesthetic and design princi- Armistead and his men inside Fort “Star-Spangled Banner” while partici- Annapolis and across the Chesapeake based troops, Commodore Barney ples of this important phase of McHenry. Their courage was wit- pating in a ceremonial flag lowering. Bay Bridge on Maryland’s Eastern and his men fought a brave but futile American transportation history. nessed by Francis Scott Key, a The hand-penned version of Key’s Shore. St. Michaels, for instance, has rear-guard action. In the battle’s after- Follow MD 295 up past College Park, Maryland lawyer who had been poem is displayed at the Maryland been known as “The Town that math, Rosalie Stier Calvert, known as Greenbelt and Beltsville. Cultural out- detained on board a cartel vessel Historical Society. Also in Baltimore, Fooled the British” ever since a sum- the “Mistress of Riversdale”, volun- lets in these areas range from per- after facilitating an American prison- the home of Fort McHenry flagmaker mer night in 1813 when, to misdirect teered slaves to bury the dead, and forming arts venues and an agricul- er’s release. By the rockets’ red glare, Mary Pickersgill has been preserved as a British naval bombardment, resi- then collected weapons and other tural research center to space flight Key watched bombs burst all along the Flag House & Star-Spangled dents supposedly extinguished all of items. This Federal-period plantation and aviation museums. the shoreline. But when the smoke Banner Museum. home now offers docent-guided cleared and British ships pulled back, tours. 110 111 At this point, follow the National The Star-Spangled Banner byway Battle Creek Cypress Swamp Flag House & Star-Spangled Historic Seaport byway (page 97) to ends here, but in the town of Sanctuary Banner Museum investigate 19th-century trades and Frederick you can discover more 2880 Grays Road 844 E. Pratt St lifestyles. Visit the Fells Point Maritime about Francis Scott Key and visit the Prince Frederick, 20678 Baltimore, 21202 Museum to learn about privateer clip- cemetery where he is buried. The 410-535-3400 410-837-1793 per ships that operated during the Historic National Road byway (page 7) www.flaghouse.org war, and then see the Inner Harbor- extends to Frederick from Baltimore. Bladensburg Waterfront Park based Pride of Baltimore II , a re-cre- Anacostia River Fort McHenry National Monument ation of an 1812-era Baltimore 4601 Annapolis Road & Historic Shrine Clipper. Old Line Lore: British Major Bladensburg, 20710 2400 E Fort Ave General Robert Ross, impressed by the 301-779-0371 Baltimore, 21250-5393 Just outside the city, during the early heroics of Commodore Joshua Barney’s http://www.pgparks.com/places/natur 410-962-4290 hours of September 12, 1814, the troops while other American forces hastily e/bladensburg.html www.nps.gov/fomc overland Battle for Baltimore began retreated during the Battle of with the landing of 4,500 British Bladensburg, not only set the injured Calvert Marine Museum Jefferson Patterson Park & troops at what is now North Point commodore free but also pardoned all of 14150 Solomons Island Rd Museum State Park. After defeating the Barney’s “Bluecoats.” During the Battle Solomons, 20688 10515 Mackall Rd Americans at North Point, the British of North Point about three weeks later, 410-326-2042 St. Leonard, 20685 marched to Baltimore but failed to Ross was mortally wounded by a sharp- www.calvertmarinemuseum.com 410-586-8500 outflank city defenses at Hampstead shooter – one of Commodore Barney’s www.jefpat.org Hill and withdrew back to North Point pardoned soldiers. to re-board their ships and depart un- victorious down the Chesapeake Bay.

112 113 Maryland Historical Society North Point State Park Riversdale Museum c/o Gunpowder Falls State Park 4811 Riverdale Rd 201 W. Monument St 2813 Jerusalem Road Riverdale 20737 Baltimore, 21201-4674 P.O. Box 480 301-864-0420 410-685-3750 Kingsville, 21087 www.pgparks.com www.mdhs.org 410-592-2897 www.dnr .state.md.us/publiclands/cen- Merkle Wildlife Sanctuary tral/northpoint.html 11704 Fenno Road Upper Marlboro, 20772 Patuxent River Park 301-888-1410 16000 Croom Airport Road www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/sout Upper Marlboro, 20772 hern/merkle.html 301-627-6074 www.pgparks.com/places/parks/patux Mount Calvert Historical & ent.html Archaeological Park 16302 Mount Calvert Rd, Upper Pride of Baltimore II Marlboro, 20772 Inner Harbor (when in port) 301-627-1286 Baltimore, 21202 410-539-1151 www.marylands pride.org

114 Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Each trail brings you face to face with the Ford’s Theatre in Washington, Virginia had recently surrendered to both familiar and lesser-known Civil D.C., and was familiar with the layout Union forces, and the mending of War stories, while also placing you of the building, having performed America was just getting under way. among panoramic scenery and pre- 66 miles from there less than a month earlier. But, shortly after 10 p.m. on the senting convenient recreational Washington, D.C., Sneaking into the president’s box, the night of April 14, 1865, thoughts of opportunities. For a free map guide to Popes Creek assassin shot Lincoln and then leapt reconciliation suffered a serious set- to Maryland Civil War Trails, call dramatically onto the Ford’s Theatre back. John Wilkes Booth, a 26-year- 1-888-248-4597 or go online at stage, breaking his leg but managing old actor and staunch Confederate www.visitmaryland.org. to make good his escape. While the sympathizer, entered Ford’s Theatre in president was moved across the street Washington, D.C., and shot President Washington, D.C. to Waldorf – to Petersen’s Boarding House (the Abraham Lincoln in the back of the Pennsylvania Ave (MD 4), place where Lincoln would die), head. As the president lay dying, Branch Ave (MD 5), Old Branch Booth fled on horseback over the Booth fled into Southern Maryland Avenue, Brandywine Road, and Navy Yard Bridge to rendezvous with and eluded Federal troops for nearly Mattawoman-Beantown Road accomplice David Herold. two weeks before being cornered in (MD 5) a Virginia barn. With the Civil War nearing its end, Booth and Herold followed Old John Wilkes Booth and a band of Branch Avenue and Brandywine Road This byway follows a route that is one conspirators plotted to kill President and came to a tavern that Mary E. of four Maryland Civil War Trails Abraham Lincoln. Booth knew of the Surratt operated as a Confederate (another, the Antietam Campaign, president’s plans to attend a perform- safehouse. Today, the Clinton-based appears as a byway on page 39). ance of “Our American Cousin” at Surratt House Museum tells the tale

116 117 of the widow’s Rebel ties, her role in just to the south down Olivers Shop Branching off to the west of US 301 Royal where Booth and Herold passed the assassination plan, and how she Road is St. Mary’s Church and on MD 6, you can visit one of the on their escape south. On the morn- became the first woman to be exe- Cemetery, one of many historic places oldest communities on the East ing of April 26, Federal troops found cuted by the U.S. government. of worship in Southern Maryland. It is Coast, Port Tobacco. Formerly an Booth and Herold in a barn on Mudd’s final resting place. Indian settlement, it became a major Richard Garrett’s farm. Herold surren- Waldorf to Port Tobacco – seaport in the 17th century and was dered, was taken to Washington, Poplar Hill Rd, Dr. Mudd Rd, Moving carefully, Booth and Herold the Charles County seat during the D.C. to stand trial, and was hanged. Bryantown Rd, Olivers Shop headed around the 21-mile-long, Civil War. Visit a museum inside the Refusing to turn himself in, Booth Rd, MD 6, Bel Alton Newton half-mile-wide Zekiah Swamp. This Port Tobacco Courthouse to see was shot while still hiding in the Rd, US 301 protected state wetland area, popular archaeological finds and gather more barn. He died on the porch of the With fresh supplies, Booth and Herold among canoeists and virtually sur- Civil War knowledge, including infor- nearby farmhouse. quickly made their way farther south rounded by bicycle loops, contains mation about George Adzerodt, an crossing into Virginia the next night. OLD LINE LORE: along Poplar Hill Road, arriving on the habitats ranging from hardwood assassination conspirator who lived in The creek has plenty of natural charm John Wilkes Booth morning of April 15 at Dr. Samuel A. swamp to grass-and-sedge savan- town. as a nesting site for bald eagles and a was born on a farm near Bel Air, MD, the Mudd’s Waldorf home, now a popu- nahs, providing natural shelter for fishing hole for boaters who use the ninth of 10 Booth children. One of his Port Tobacco to Popes Creek – lar museum stop. The country physi- many rare species of wildlife and Friendship Landing ramp. You can older brothers, famed Shakespearean actor US 301, Popes Creek Rd, Edge cian, apparently unaware of his migratory birds. The two men made find out all about recreational and Edwin Booth, reportedly saved President Hill Rod, US 301 patient’s role in Lincoln’s assassina- their way to the home of Samuel sight-seeing opportunities in this area Abraham Lincoln’s son, Robert, from falling tion, treated Booth’s broken leg – an Cox, near the present-day town of In the dark of night on April 20, from the Crain Memorial Welcome into the path of a train in New Jersey act that would land Mudd in prison. Bel Alton, and spent several days hid- Booth and Herold arrived at the Center on US 301 north. several months prior to the president’s The nearby village of Bryantown is ing in a nearby pine thicket. Potomac River near Popes Creek Road assassination. where Mudd claimed to have first and mistakenly rowed into Nanjemoy Cross the Potomac River on US 301 heard of Lincoln’s assassination, and Creek, where they stayed until into Virginia, heading toward Port 118 119 Dr. Samuel A. Mudd Home and Port Tobacco Courthouse Zekiah Swamp Natural Museum Off MD 6 on Chapel Point Rd. Environmental Area 3725 Dr. Samuel Budd Rd Port Tobacco, 20677 Cedarville State Forest Waldorf, 20601 301-934-4313 MD 4 301-645-6870 Brandywine, 20613 St. Mary’s Church and Cemetery 301-888-1622. Ford’s Theatre National 11555 St. Mary’s Church Rd Historic Site Charlotte Hall, 20622 National Mall 301-934-8825; Washington, D.C. www.nps.gov/foth/index.htm Surratt House Museum 9188 Brandywine Rd Friendship Landing, Nanjemoy Clinton, 20735 Creek 301-868-1121 Friendship Landing Road www.surratt.org Just off MD 425 Nanjemoy, MD 20662

Petersen’s Boarding House National Mall Washington, D.C. www.nps.gov/archive/foth/hwld.htm

120 When you feel a gentle bay breeze hopping, or just relax on a sandy Annapolis to Fairhaven – Rowe brick streets once traveled by brush your cheek, when you hear beach and watch the sun set on Blvd, West St, MD 2, MD 253, colonists, look up at the rare wooden water pushing softly against a wood- another golden Chesapeake Bay day. MD 214, MD 468, MD 256, dome of the Maryland State House, en pier, when you taste the unmistak- 47 miles from Franklin Gibson Rd, Leitch Rd, window-shop for everything from able flavor of Maryland seafood, you During his explorations of the bay Annapolis to Plum Town Point Rd & MD 423 maritime antiques to designer cloth- know you’ve arrived in waterman’s region four centuries ago, Capt. John Point Resting beside the Chesapeake Bay ing, or just relax in a pub and watch country. This Western Shore byway, Smith noted, “Heaven and earth just south of Baltimore and east of the world go by. At the center of the which begins in our state capital of never agreed better to frame a place Washington, D.C., Annapolis appears action is the U.S. Naval Academy Annapolis and incorporates the Four for man’s habitation.” These words much as it did back in the post- campus, which, like the downtown Rivers Heritage Area, is a feast for the have taken on added significance Revolutionary War years, when it Annapolis area, is a National Historic senses as you visit friendly with the designation of the all-water became the first peacetime capital of Landmark. Guided walking tours of Chesapeake Bay communities, and Captain John Smith Chesapeake our new nation. Four signers of the the Academy grounds give you a share in their warmth, absorb their National Historic Trail, which com- Declaration of Independence made taste of life as a midshipman and lead culture and explore their deep mar- memorates the voyages of Captain their home here, and today you you to the crypt of patriot John Paul itime roots. John Smith and his crew on the won’t find another U.S. city with Jones. Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries more surviving 18th-century buildings Step through one of the several during 1607-1609. Many bayside still in commercial and residential use Maryland’s state capital is also National Park Service’s designated attractions, including several from – just a couple of reasons why “America’s Sailing Capital,” so once Chesapeake Bay Gateways in the area Annapolis to Southern Maryland Annapolis has been listed among you’ve finished exploring Annapolis and be introduced to the beauty of a provide additional information about “America’s Dozen Distinctive by land, take to the sea for fishing or true natural treasure. Come sailing, Smith. Destinations” by the National Trust sightseeing trip. From there, head paddling, bird watching, museum for Historic Preservation. Stroll red toward Edgewater on MD 253 and

122 123 follow the South River into Historic of the West River, the Avery House front inn, you can backtrack briefly and Washington, D.C. Nowadays, you London Town. Visit the early-18th- returns you to bay life as it was in on MD 423 to the Herrington can treat yourself to pampering at a century William Brown House, take the 1860s. Harbour North Historic Village, a col- local spa or enjoy summer fun at a part in an “Archaeology Dig Day,” lection of outbuildings that includes a water park with eight slides, a lazy and walk among gardens throughout To get an up close look at the Bay, one-room schoolhouse, African- river and other attractions. the reconstructed “lost town” of stop at the Smithsonian American meeting house and resi- London. Environmental Research Center, dence. Following the bay shoreline When you reach the town of which encompasses 2,800 acres of south on MD 261, you soon come to Willows, sidetrack east along Breezy Check for powerboat and sailboat land along the Rhode River, a the sister towns of North Beach and Point Road toward a sandy, half-mile- rentals while you’re in Edgewater, or subestuary of the Chesapeake Bay, Chesapeake Beach. Enjoy charming long public beach that is available for drive a little farther south on MD 214 and includes forest, cropland, pas- restaurants, marinas, antiques shops picnicking, swimming, fishing and east, then MD 468 south and charter ture, freshwater wetlands, tidal and bed and breakfasts, and then crabbing. Just to the south on MD a 50-foot ketch in the historic village marshes, and estuaries. Then proceed step back to the early 1900s at the 263 east, and still hugging the bay of Galesville, where you can also visit south on MD 256 and east on MD Chesapeake Beach Railway Museum shoreline, is the town of Plum Point, a museum operated by the Galesville 261 around Herring Bay, stopping in that also serves as a Chesapeake Bay but then you’ll want to turn inland Heritage Society. Both London Town Fairhaven to enjoy the serenity of Gateway. The museum, housed in an on MD 263 west and proceed toward and the Galesville Heritage Museum another bayside village. 1898 railway station, also has exhibits Prince Frederick to hook up with the are Chesapeake Bay Gateways, as is on the Victorian resort and amuse- Star-Spangled Banner Trail (page the Shady Side-based Captain Salem Fairhaven to Plum Point – ment park that once drew boatloads 105). Avery House. A restored waterman’s MD 423, MD 261 & MD 263 and trainloads of visitors to cottage located on a peninsula east After relaxing at a Rosehaven beach- Chesapeake Beach from Baltimore

124 125 OLD LINE LORE: The Western Captain Salem Avery House Herrington Harbour North Smithsonian Environmental Shore town of London, established as a 1418 E W Shady Side Rd Historic Village Research Center tobacco port in 1683, virtually disap- Shady Side, 20764 389 Deale Road, 647 Contees Wharf Road peared in the late 18th century following 410-867-4486, 410-867-2901 Tracy's Landing/Deale, 20751 Edgewater, 21037-0028 an economic depression brought about by www.averyhouse.org 410-867-4343 443-482-2200 the Revolutionary War. The archaeologi- www.serc.si.edu cal remains of the “lost town” are now Chesapeake Beach Railway Historic London Town and being unearthed at Historic London Museum Gardens U.S. Naval Academy Town and Gardens. 4155 Mears Ave, 839 Londontown Rd, Armel-Leftwich Visitor Center, 52 Chesapeake Beach, 20732 Edgewater, 21037-2197 King George St, Gate 1, Breezy Point Beach and 410-257-3892 410-222-1919 Annapolis, 21402 Campground www.cbrm.org www.historiclondontown.com 410-263-6933 5230 Breezy Point Rd www.navyonline.com Chesapeake Beach 20732 Chesapeake Beach Water Park Maryland State House 4079 Gordon Stinnett Ave, 91 State Cir, Captain John Smith Chesapeake Chesapeake Beach 20732 Annapolis, 21401 National Historic Trail 410-257-1404, 301-855-8398 410-974-3400 National Park Service www.mdarchives.state.md.us/msa/ho Chesapeake Bay Program Office Galesville Heritage Museum mepage/html 410 Severn Avenue, Suite 109 988 Main St Annapolis, 21403 Galesville, 20765 1-866-BAY-WAYS (866-229-9297) 410-867-0373 www.nps.gov/cajo www.galesvilleheritagesociety.org

126 127 William Brown House The London Town Foundation 839 Londontown Road Edgewater, 21037 410-222-1919

William Paca House and Garden 186 Prince George St, Annapolis, 21401 410-267-7619, 1-800-603-4020 www.annapolis.org

128 America’s roots of “toleration” run nature while traveling into the heart Southwest along MD 6, below an throughout Southern Maryland, of the Southern Maryland Heritage inviting place named Welcome, sits where the original English settlers – Area. the Christ Church-Durham Parish. Protestant and Catholic alike – recog- 189 miles from Dating to 1692, it is one of the origi- nized the rights of individuals to hold Upper Loop from Port Tobacco – Port Tobacco to nal 30 parishes of the Church of dissenting religious opinions. Now, Rose Hill Rd, MD 225, Point Lookout England chartered in the Province of such freedoms are celebrated at long- MD 224, MD 425 & MD 6 Maryland. The brick structure you see established places of worship all over Port Tobacco was built on one of the today was constructed in the 1730s. the region. earliest settlement sites in Maryland. When the first Europeans arrived, Keep Mattawoman Creek to your left This byway, with several branches they found a Potopco Indian village as you drive up MD 224 and arrive at that reach toward the Potomac River, here. Soon after, a missionary outpost Smallwood State Park. The estate of incorporates many of the nation’s old- was established by Jesuit Father General William Smallwood, a est churches, the site of the first Andrew White, one of the colony’s Revolutionary War hero and fourth Roman Catholic Mass held in English- original settlers. As you travel through governor of Maryland, is the center- speaking America, and Maryland’s town, drop by a one-room school- piece of the park, which also has a colonial capital, Historic St. Mary’s house that was built in 1872, and marina that is the launching point for The Religious City. For some travelers, it’s a spiritual then tour the Port Tobacco national bass-fishing competitions. Freedom Tour pilgrimage; others simply admire the Courthouse, now a museum contain- From there, sidetrack into Purse State incorporates many history. Either way, it’s an inspirational ing tobacco exhibits and archaeologi- Park, a popular fossil-hunting location journey through beautiful country- cal finds. set on the Potomac River at of the nation’s oldest side, allowing you to commune with Wades Bay. churches.

130 As you loop back toward Port lived in the 18th-century, Georgian you soon arrive at a branch that fol- Tobacco, northwest of town along mansion that dominates this 322-acre lows MD 257 and MD 254 to Cobb MD 225 is the Myrtle Grove Wildlife plantation. Island, well-known among fishermen Management Area, which offers and seafood aficionados. On the way hunting, fishing and hiking around a Chapel Point to St. Clements to the island is Christ Protestant 23-acre lake. Another option is to Island – Chapel Point Rd, Pope’s Episcopal Church, which was built in veer off of MD 225 into Mt. Carmel, Creek Rd, US 301, MD 234, 1750 and counted a young Thomas site of the first nunnery in the MD 238, MD 242 Clagett among its parishioners. In colonies. Buildings have been restored A spectacular view of the Potomac 1792, Clagett became the first using the original foundations of the and Port Tobacco rivers awaits as you Episcopal bishop consecrated in the convent, which was founded in 1790 head toward Chapel Point, stopping United States. by four Carmelite nuns together with at St. Ignatius Catholic Church and Father Charles Neal of nearby St. Thomas Manor. The church, Back on the main route, you head Chandler’s Hope. All five of Neal’s founded by Jesuits in 1641, has east through the Zekiah Swamp brothers also became Catholic priests, remained active longer than any Natural Environment Area toward with one, Leonard Neal, ascending to other parish in the country, and the Budds Creek, and then follow MD the position of Archbishop. manor house, constructed a century 234 into Chaptico, a port town that later, is the oldest Jesuit residence in was occupied by the British during Your last stop on the first portion of continuous use in the world. both the American Revolution and this byway is the Thomas Stone War of 1812. Christ Episcopal National Historic Site. Stone, one of Just beyond the village of Popes Church, King and Queen Parish, was four signers of the Declaration of Creek, which provides a link to the built here in 1736, on land donated Independence to hail from Maryland, Booth’s Escape byway (page 115), by Francis Scott Key’s grandfather.

132 133 Branching off from Chaptico, follow Chaptico to Point Lookout – this byway comes up in Callaway, English settlement in America, and MD 238 south to MD 242, which MD 234, MD 243, MD 5 & where MD 249 leads to St. George’s site of the first Catholic chapel in the leads to Coltons Point. Here, the MD 249 Episcopal Church in Valley Lee. The colonies. At the museum, archaeolo- nationally accredited St. Clement’s Back on MD 234 and heading east oldest Episcopal parish in Maryland, gists, historians and living history Island Museum features exhibits on once again, look for a sidetrack that St. George’s has held services since interpreters continue to work toward Maryland’s earliest history. Inquire takes you down MD 243 to St. 1638. Before returning to the main re-discovering and demonstrating life about water taxi service to St. Francis Xavier Church, the oldest route, follow MD 249 down to Piney in St. Mary’s City as it was in the Clement’s Island, the “Birthplace of Roman Catholic church in the state. Point, site of the oldest lighthouse on 1600s, with a tobacco plantation, Maryland,” where Father White cele- Father James Ashby is believed to the Potomac River. Built in 1836, the Town Center, Indian hamlet and repli- brated the first Catholic Mass in the have built the present, wood-shingled sentinel has been called the ca of the Maryland Dove, one of the British-American colonies. Today, the structure just before his death in “Lighthouse of Presidents” because two square-rigged ships that brought island is a 40-acre state park on 1767. its surroundings were a popular sum- those first settlers here. Nearby is which a 40-foot-tall cross honors mer destination for U.S. heads of Trinity Episcopal Church, which was those first colonists who, in 1634, MD 234 becomes MD 5 as you pro- state such as James Madison and built with bricks salvaged from the conceptualized separation of church ceed farther east, entering the heart Theodore Roosevelt. Beyond the original State House, and at the and state. The principles of religious of Leonardtown. Attractions of note lighthouse, the U-1105 Black Panther entrance to Historic St. Mary’s City is liberty that they championed were a include the Old Jail Museum, a tourist Historic Shipwreck Preserve is an the Freedom of Conscience precursor to democratic ideals that information center that also contains excellent place to go boating. Monument. Erected in 1934, the inspired the framers of Maryland’s Bill early Maryland artifacts, and Tudor monument commemorates a 1649 of Rights and later contributed to the Hall, a 250-year-old Colonial house Probably the most visited destination Act passed by the General Assembly United States’ Bill of Rights. that the St. Mary’s County Historical on this byway is Historic St. Mary’s that mandated religious toleration of Society operates as a genealogical City. Maryland’s capital from 1634 to all Trinitarians, laying the foundation research center. The next branch of 1695, it was the fourth permanent 134 135 for the First Amendment to the U.S. OLD LINE LORE: As St. Thomas Historic St. Mary’s City Piney Point Lighthouse Museum Constitution. Manor was being built on the Port P.O. Box 39 & Historic Park Tobacco River in 1741, some observers St. Mary's City, 20686 St. Mary's County Government Along Mill Creek is St. Mary’s College commented that the Jesuits were “raising 800-762-1634 ~ 240-895-4990 ~ 23115 Leonard Hall Dr of Maryland, established in 1840 as a a palace unbecoming a religious order.” 240-895-4960 Leonardtown, 20650 female seminary and now operating But it didn’t deter many Catholic mis- www.stmaryscity.org www.stmarysmd.com/recreate/muse- as a co-educational state college. sionaries, including John Carroll, first ums Then you pass the late-18th-century Bishop of the United States, from enjoy- Myrtle Grove Wildlife St. Ignatius Church, off Beachville Rd, ing the manor’s ambience while meeting Management Area Point Lookout State Park before making your way to Point here on business. Myrtle Grove Road 11175 Point Lookout Road Lookout State Park. Point Lookout La Plata, 20646 Scotland, 20687 once flourished as a summer resort, Christ Church-Durham Parish www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/sou- 301 872-5688 and today the state park offers 8685 Ironsides Road, thern/myrtlegrove.html www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/sout beaches, a boat launch, fishing areas Nanjemoy 20662 hern/pointlookout.html and campgrounds. But there’s anoth- 301-743-7099 Old Jail Museum er side to this picturesque peninsula – 11 Courthouse Drive Port Tobacco Courthouse during the Civil War, Point Lookout Christ Episcopal Church, King and Leonardtown, 20650 P.O. Box 344 was a notorious prison camp where Queen Parish 301-475-2467 Port Tobacco, 20677 more than 4,000 Confederate sol- Maddox Rd, Rt 238 www.smchistory.org 301- 934-2474 diers died. A museum and monu- Chaptico 20621 Smallwood State Park ments are found on site. 301-884-3451 www.christepiscopalchaptico.org

136 137 St. Clement’s Island Museum 38370 Point Breeze Road Colton’s Point, 20626 301-769-2222 www.stmarysmd.com/recreate/museums

St. Clement’s Island State Park c/o Point Lookout State Park 11175 Point Lookout Road Scotland, 20687 301-872-5688 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/sout hern/stclements.html

St. Ignatius Church/St. Thomas Manor 8855 Chapel Point Rd Port Tobacco, 20677 301-934-8245 www.chapelpoint.org

138 It is said that in “Chesapeake waterways, historic waterfront vil- Country,” life moves gently with the lages and wide natural expanses. The ebb and flow of the tides. Your jour- upper Eastern Shore section has also ney takes you past fertile farmland been designated as a National Scenic 419 miles from graced by handsome – often historic Byway. Chesapeake City to – manor houses. You enter small Elliott Island towns rich with art, culture and pure This tidewater region has shaped the country charm, and then slip through lifestyles and livelihoods of genera- secluded spots surrounded by tions of watermen, shipbuilders, and unspoiled nature. And never are you tobacco farmers. Travel through this far from water – either the region will take you through water- Chesapeake Bay or one of its tidewa- related communities where the peo- ter tributaries. ple are up with the season to reap the harvest from the bay, and towns Divided into Upper Eastern Shore and that have been welcoming travelers mid-shore sections, this ambitious for centuries. byway winds through the bulk of two Maryland Heritage Areas – first, the Upper Eastern Shore section Stories of the Chesapeake, which from Chesapeake City – takes you through the natural beauty MD 213 & MD 18 of this special land; then, the Heart of Begin your trip in Chesapeake City, at Chesapeake Country, with its pristine the western end of the Chesapeake

140 141 and Delaware Canal. Among the Point takes you past the Mount town’s many restored, 19th-century Harmon Plantation, featuring an commercial and residential buildings 18th-century manor home set amid a is a museum that tells of the C&D boxwood garden, tobacco prize Canal’s significance as a trade route house and nature preserve. linking Baltimore and Philadelphia. Back on MD 213 south, cross to the Heading down MD 213, look for a southern bank of the Sassafras River sign marking the site of Bohemia and enter Georgetown, which was Manor, which was originally owned raided and burned by British troops by Augustine Herman, a surveyor said during the War of 1812. Only two to be the first man to map Maryland. houses and a church were spared. The next town on your journey, MD 213 takes a hard right turn in Cecilton, is located at the largest Galena and runs toward Kennedyville. crossroads south of the canal, just Just north on Turners Creek Landing, east of three bayside sidetracks onto the Kent Museum features displays of MD 282 and beyond. First, there is antique agricultural machinery and Crystal Beach, popular for swimming other items from rural life. Nature and fishing. Then comes the trails surround the museum. Stemmer’s Run Wildlife Management Area, where you can participate in Another sidetrack, this one from MD upland game viewing and seasonal 298 to MD 292, brings you to hunting. Finally, a sidetrack to Grove Betterton, a Victorian resort during

142 143 the golden age of the Chesapeake Rock Hall by way of MD 20. Arguably Bay steamboat. The road leading to the pleasure-boating center of the Betterton’s beach and pier descends a Upper Shore, Rock Hall has more steep hill past fine Victorian-era than a dozen marinas offering safe homes. mooring and charter services. In addition, you’ll find exceptional seafood On MD 213 once again, you pass dining, visual and performing arts, through rolling farmland en route to the old-fashioned Durding’s drug Chestertown, a Colonial port on the store (complete with soda fountain), Chester River.Wealthy merchants and and a nearby museum dedicated to planters built the elegant brick town- decades past when the Tolchester houses that dominate Chestertown’s Beach amusement park operated just historic district. Among these is the up the road. To learn about the area’s Geddes-Piper House, now the period- Native American, Colonial and mar- furnished headquarters of the Kent itime heritage, stop by the Rock Hall County Historical Society. Other Museum. Next, follow MD 445 south attractions include a 3,000-acre to the Eastern Neck National Wildlife wildlife and agricultural research area Refuge, an island ecosystem with known as Chesapeake Farms; a extensive hiking trails. schooner named Sultana that sails as the “Schoolship of the Chesapeake”. Returning to Chestertown and taking a southward course along MD 213, Here, the byway branches off toward you soon arrive in Church Hill. St.

144 Luke’s Episcopal Church, which rests tures are evidence of the area’s rich rollerblading route called the Cross Mid-Shore Section from on a hill overlooking the center of Colonial heritage. Plus, you can shop Island Trail. Centreville – US 50, MD 662, town, has been restored to its early- at local outlet stores before entering 331, 318, 313 18th-century glory. Nearby is the Grasonville, home of an environmen- In Stevensville, hints of the communi- To begin the second leg of this Church Hill Theatre, presenting clas- tal center operated by the Wildfowl ty’s past are offered at the Cray byway, either start from Centreville sic, contemporary and children’s plays Trust of North America. Beyond the House and Train Depot. The house, and follow MD 213 south, or take US in a converted 1930s movie house. Trust’s visitors center are recreational built circa 1809, is a rare example of 50 past a sidetrack to the Wye Mills opportunities ranging from hiking post-and-plank construction, and the Natural Resource Management Area. In Centreville, visit the Museum of and canoeing to spying on captive adjacent train station, constructed a In the actual town of Wye Mills, look Eastern Shore Life to see artifacts and migrating waterfowl and raptors. century later, harkens to a time when for a gristmill that ground flour for from the surrounding region, and Stevensville grew with an influx of George Washington’s troops during then take a closer look at some of The Kent Narrows channel separates steamboat and railroad traffic from the Revolutionary War. Visit where the town’s 18th- and 19th-century Maryland’s Eastern Shore mainland the western shore of the bay. the largest white oak in the nation, homes and buildings. On the square from Kent Island. Waterside restau- fell in 2002 during a vicious storm, at the town’s center is a 1792 struc- rants in this area feature contempo- Your next move could be to travel and a true genetic clone of the tree ture that is Maryland’s oldest court- rary entertainment while serving four miles across the Chesapeake Bay was planted here in 2006. house. Look also for the Federal-peri- seafood fresh from the dock to your Bridge to Maryland’s capital of od Tucker House and a finely fur- table. Information regarding island Annapolis, where you can hook into Follow MD 662 until it ends, at which nished, circa-1744 plantation home history, such as the establishment of a the Roots & Tides byway (page 121). time you can pick up US 50 and enter named Wright’s Chance. trading post here in 1631, is available Otherwise, return to the Eastern Easton. Its reputation as one of the at the Chesapeake Exploration Shore mainland via US 50 and start best small towns in America is partly Go west on MD 18 and follow it to Center, which is also one end of the the Mid-shore part of your journey. attributable to its variety of arts and Queenstown. Several existing struc- six-mile-long hiking, biking and entertainment options, from the art-

146 147 deco Avalon Theatre to the Academy Maryland. The place is even admired on the Dover Bridge. During Civil War history not only includes brushes with Art Museum. Easton’s history comes by monarch butterflies, thousands of times, people, horses and cows were Underground Railroad conductor alive at a 325-year-old Quaker meet- which stop here every August as they charged a five-cent toll to use the Harriet Tubman, but also Wild West ing house, and on streets lined with wing their way toward Mexico. bridge. Beyond the river in Preston, sharpshooter Annie Oakley and sever- elegant Victorian homes and an you link up with the Underground al former Maryland governors. Water enticing array of long-established spe- Return to the main route by way of Railroad byway (page 153), but then adventures are available via skipjack cialty shops. You’ll also find champi- MD 329 toward Bellevue, crossing veer off toward Hurlock. This is where sailing cruises and custom boat tours, onship golfing nearby, as well as the Tred Avon River on board what is an authentic paddlewheel boat waits or glimpse the life of an Eastern nature trails and a canoe launch at believed to be America’s oldest pri- to take you river cruising. Shore waterman at the Richardson the 400-acre Pickering Creek vately owned ferry, which dates back Maritime Museum and Boatworks in Audubon Center. to the 17th century. On the opposite Pass through East New Market on Cambridge. shore of the river is Oxford, where MD 16, first settled in 1660 as an Branch off on MD 33 to visit St. you’ll find a sizable fishing and oyster Native-American trading post and Continue on MD 343 toward Hudson Michaels, an important shipbuilding fleet along with many fine marinas. later serving as the center of and sight your binoculars on the center since the earliest Colonial days. Exhibits on the area’s heritage and American Methodism. As you hug the Sharps Island Lighthouse offshore. Explore the Chesapeake Bay Maritime maritime history are found inside the Choptank River shoreline, move Now it’s time to doubleback to Museum, which features a working Oxford Museum, while just down the through a small fishing village called Cambridge, venture south on MD boatyard, various hands-on activities road is a replica of the first Oxford Secretary, and then cross paths once 341, and face your next decision and a restored 1879 lighthouse. From Customs House. more with the Underground Railroad about which way to turn. One option here, it’s a short drive to Tilghman byway as you branch off toward is to head south on MD 341 into the Island, home of skipjack cruises, great After making your way back to Cambridge. Bike routes around here heart of the Blackwater National restaurants and one of the largest Easton on MD 333, head east along incorporate both small-town scenes Wildlife Refuge, which beckons bikers one-marina charter fleets in MD 331, crossing the Choptank River and wide-open country, while local to view a vast salt-marsh ecosystem,

148 149 and canoeists and kayakers to enjoy which you can either continue north Blackwater National Wildlife Cray House and Train Depot Kent Museum relaxing tidewater excursions. toward Federalsburg and the Idylwild Refuge Cockey's Ln Turners Creek Landing Blackwater also boasts the largest Wildlife Management Area, or turn 2145 Key Wallace Dr Stevensville, 21666 Kennedyville, 13685 nesting population of bald eagles on southeast to investigate the Lower Cambridge, 21613 410-604-2100 410-348-9149 the East Coast. Eastern Shore on the Blue Crab 410-228-0401 www.historicqac.org www.kentcounty/farmmuseum byway (page 161). The two byways www.friendsofblackwater.com A more westerly route on MD 335 join in the vicinity of Sharptown, Eastern Neck National Wildlife Mount Harmon Plantation takes you on this byway’s Hooper which features a boat launch for easy Chesapeake & Delaware Canal Refuge Grove Neck Rd to Mt Harmon Rd Island Branch, skirting the Blackwater exploration of the scenic Nanticoke Museum (1837) 1730 Eastern Neck Rd Earleville,21919 refuge en route to a chain of three, and its tributaries. 815 Bethel Rd Rock Hall, 216661 410-275-8819 narrow islands named for one of the Chesapeake City, 21915 410-639-7056 www.mountharmon.org first families to settle in the area. OLD LINE LORE: Celebrated author 410-885-5622 www.kentcounty/gov/parkrec/parks Come prepared to fish, boat and scan James Michener wrote an outline for his Museum of Eastern Shore Life the bay for the 63-foot-tall Hooper novel Chesapeake in an Oxford-based Chesapeake Bay Maritime Geddes-Piper House 120 Dulin Clark Rd. Island Lighthouse. To the east is the tavern that won his heart with its succu- Museum 101 Church Alley Centerville, 21617 Elliott Island Branch, which includes a lent crab cakes. The original manuscript Navy Point Chestertown, 21620 410-758-8640, 410-758-0979 stop at the Fishing Bay Wildlife for Michener’s work is kept at a library St. Michaels, 21663 410-778-3499 Management Area. Fishing Bay’s lush in Easton. 410-745-2916 www.hskmd.com tidal wetlands have earned it the www.cbmm.org nickname “Maryland’s Everglades.” Avalon Theatre 40 E Dover St Chesapeake Farms Finally, you’re ready to drive along the Easton, 21601 7319 Remington Dr. Nanticoke River up to Eldorado, from 410-822-0345 Chestertown, 21620 www.avalontheatre.com 410-778-8400 150 151 Oxford Museum Rock Hall Museum Wye Grist Mill and Museum 101 S Morris St 5585 Main St Rt 662 14296 Old Wye Mills Road Oxford, 21654 Rock Hall, 21661 Wye Mills, 21657 410-226-0191 410-639-2296 410-827-6909 www.oxfordmuseum.org www.rockhallmd.com/museum www.ce.jhu.ed/mdcive/wyemill.htm

Oxford-Bellevue Ferry Schooner Sultana 1768 and the End of MD Rt 333 Sultana Center Oxford, 21654 Cross St 410-745-9023 Chestertown, 21620 www.oxfordferry.com 410-778-5954 www.schoonersultana.com Pickering Creek Audubon Center 11450 Audubon Ln Wildfowl Trust of North America Easton, 21601 Chesapeake Bay Environmental 410-822-4903 Center www.pickeringcreek.org 600 Discovery Ln Grasonville, 21638 Richardson Maritime Museum 410-827-6694 and Boatworks www.cbec-wtna.org 401 High St Cambridge, 21613 410-221-1871 www.richardsonmuseum.org

152 Along a secret network of trails, to better understand the stories of Chesapeake Country Heritage Area Travel across the Cambridge Creek to within the Cambridge National waterways and sanctuaries known as the Underground Railroad, many of and a Chesapeake Bay Gateway, a courthouse building, constructed in Historic District is the Harriet Tubman the Underground Railroad, enslaved them as told by local anti-slavery which provides information about, 1854, that was the scene of slave Museum and Educational Center. people fled north out of Southern activists who risked their own lives to 144 miles from and ready access to, both the auctions, escapes, trials and convic- Nicknamed “The Moses of her states to escape bondage. For them, aid their fellow Americans. Cambridge to Choptank Riverfront and the history tions, which are told on a large inter- People” for her courageous work as a the Civil War couldn’t end quickly Greensboro of Cambridge. pretive sign. Along a scenic walk “conductor” on the Underground enough, and the thirst for freedom far Cambridge to East New Market Railroad, it has been outweighed the dangers involved with – Maryland Avenue, Race documented that trudging across strange lands, trusting Street (MD 341), MD 16, Tubman helped more no one and yet often counting on the MD 335, Key Wallace Drive, than 70 enslaved peo- selfless kindness of strangers. Greenbrier Road, Bucktown ple reach freedom. Maryland is a state rich with African- Road, MD 16, US 50, MD 16 Follow MD 341 south American heritage but was often torn The starting point for your to MD 16 west, where during the 19th century by divided Underground Railroad journey is the you will find the opinions concerning the institution of Visitors Center at Sailwinds Park, Stanley Institute, a slavery. Here you can learn more found just off the east end of the one-room, African- about these freedom seekers. U.S. 50 Bridge in Cambridge and American school remember to pick up a copy of the established by the This Eastern Shore byway follows a Finding a Way to Freedom brochure. Freedmen’s Bureau mostly northern path across a land- Easily distinguishable by the large sail shortly after the Civil scape that has changed little in the canopy stretched over the building, War. Continue out last century and a half. It allows you the visitor center is in the Heart of to Stewart’s Canal,

154 155 which was dug by slaves to move opportunities is the two-mile Tubman as a place where timber to market. Next, enter Church Road Hiking Trail, which incorporates “pilgrims” congregate. Creek, which served as a major pre- the remains of a homestead estab- Civil War shipbuilding center, employ- lished in the 1600s. Branching south of ing both black and white workers. Bucktown, drive to An interpretive marker is on the site. Continue to Greenbrier Road and historic, single-lane look for a roadside pull off where an Bestpitch Ferry Bridge A Taylors Island Branch of this byway interpretive marker notes the approxi- and look out at a runs west on MD 16 toward the mate location of Harriet Tubman’s landscape that is mostly Chesapeake Bay, passing the late- early life on the Brodess Farm. Then unchanged since the 17th-century Old Trinity Church and head for the Bucktown Village Store, mid-19th century. A the town of Madison, where Tubman which is where a teenaged Tubman little farther along is labored for several years. Along the was said to have been struck by an the Fishing Bay Wildlife way, you will pass Stewart’s canal that overseer while allowing a slave to Management Area, was laboriously dug by enslaved peo- avoid capture. As a result, she was with its many water ple to move timber to market. disabled for months and suffered trails and unspoiled Returning east on 16, then south on from spells of “unexpected sleep” for scenery. MD 335, you link into the the rest of her life. Guided historic Chesapeake Country byway (page and nature tours are offered here, Now head north, 139) while traveling beside the along with bike, canoe and kayak having completed Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge. rentals. Nearby is Bazzel Methodist the Cambridge Among Blackwater’s many nature- Episcopal Church, which has long cel- loop, before viewing and outdoor recreational ebrated Tubman’s memory and serves following US 50

156 157 and MD 16 into East New Market. ing house (now Mt. Pleasant Courthouse Square, former site of a of the “very public manner” in which of Uncle Tom on Josiah Henson, a Veer onto MD 14 to find Mt. Zion Cemetery) that is believed to have slave market and jail where the Underground Railroad was run, he Southern Maryland man who himself United Methodist Church. Located been an Underground Railroad sta- Underground Railroad conductors were applauded the determination and became an author after escaping slavery. near an old train station, Mt. Zion tion. A subsequent sidetrack on this held; the Tuckahoe Neck Meeting “noble daring” displayed by its con- was built in 1880 on land that had byway’s Poplar Neck Loop, which was House, built in 1803 and linked to the ductors. Adkins Arboretum been deeded five decades earlier to a home to Tubman’s parents, reveals Underground Railroad network; and 12610 Eveland Rd group of seven African-American stunning scenery, culminating in a the Museum of Rural Life, which At this point, you have the option of Ridgely, 21660 trustees. Among these was Samuel view of the Choptank River from a includes an Underground Railroad linking into the Chesapeake Country 410-634-2847 Green, a free black farmer and small waterfront park. The story is exhibit. Byway. Otherwise, follow MD 313 into www.adkinsaboretum.org Underground Railroad conductor. told of a man named Josiah Bailey the historic towns of Greensboro and who rowed past this point to meet Frederick Douglass, the famous orator Goldsboro. Picking up MD 287 allows Bazzel Methodist Episcopal Church East New Market to Goldsboro Harriet Tubman before fleeing into and statesman, began his autobiogra- you to head east into Delaware, where Bestpitch Ferry Road – MD 16, Grove Road, MD 578, Canada. phy, “I was born in Tuckahoe, near other Underground Railroad sites await 410-228-0401 MD 16, MD 331, MD 313, Hillsborough, and about 12 miles from in rural villages like Sandtown, Willow Cambridge, 21613 MD 287 Head north on MD 16, to Potters Easton.” From Denton, you can follow Grove, Star Hill and Camden. www.intercom.net/npo/tubman/bazzel. Visit a historic gristmill at Linchester, Landing, which served as a crossing a western branch of this byway to the htm east of Preston, where employed free place for slaves heading north. Your Tuckahoe River, and see where OLD LINE LORE: Underground and enslaved African Americans journey likewise continues north, tak- Douglass embarked on an amazing Railroad conductor Samuel Green was pas- Blackwater National Wildlife worked side by side. The roots of ing you through Martinak State Park. journey through Annapolis, Baltimore, tor of a church in East New Market Refuge peace-loving Quakers also run deep Experience the excellent camping, St. Michaels and other points along the through the 1850s until being imprisoned 2145 Key Wallace Dr, 21613 in this area, as you can see the home fishing and boating here before bay, finally escaping from slavery to in 1857 for possessing a copy of the 410-228-2677 of abolitionist Jacob Leverton and entering Denton, which contains sev- become an abolitionist leader. Though Harriet Beecher Stowe novel, Uncle Tom’s www.fws.gov/blackwater then visit the site of a Quaker meet- eral relevant sites. There’s the Douglass wrote that he never approved Cabin. Stowe, in fact, based the character

158 159 Bucktown Village Store Martinak State Park 4303 Bucktown Rd 137 Deep Shore Rd Cambridge, 21613 Denton, 21629 410-228-7650 410-479-1619 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/east Fishing Bay Wildlife Management ern/martinak.html Area 4220 Steele Neck Rd Museum of Rural Life Vienna, 21869 16 N 2nd St 410-376-3236 Denton, 21629 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/east 410-479-2055 ern/fishingbay.html www.carolinehistory.org

Harriet Tubman Museum and Stanley Institute Educational Center 2400 Church Creek Rd 424 Race St Cambridge, 21613 Cambridge, 21613 410-228-6657 410-228-0401 Visitors Center at Sailwinds Park East end of U.S. 50 Bridge, Cambridge 1-800-522-8687

160 Some routes described in this guide yes, dining on sumptuous, fresh 200-year-old Teackle Mansion, are rounded by some of a waterfowl’s nity of Crisfield. Boats bring the not only follow a particular theme, seafood. We recommend spicy listed on the National Register of favorite vegetation, resulting in one bounty of the lower Chesapeake but closely trace a specific natural or steamed crabs, crab cakes, crab soup, Historic Places. Directly east of town of the state’s finest places to view home to this self-styled “Crab Capital manmade feature, such as the crab dip or even soft-shell crabs 249 miles from is a branch of the byway that follows ducks and geese. Most of the resi- of the World.” The J. Millard Tawes Historic National Road, Baltimore’s (which are harvested immediately Princess Anne to MD 363 to Deal Island. A wildlife dents of Deal Island make their living Historical Museum offers a look into National Historic Seaport or the C&O after molting). And, as you journey the Atlantic Ocean management area here contains a from nearby waters, and several oper- the industry of seafood harvesting Canal. However, no other byway through the Lower Eastern Shore 2,800-acre, man made pond sur- ations are set up to take visitors salt- and processing, while the Ward besides this one, when viewed on a Heritage Area, we advise you to water angling in the summer or Brothers Workshop pays tribute to map, can dare to claim an actual come prepared with outdoor gear for hunting in the winter. the art of wildfowl decoy carving. physical resemblance to its name! all occasions, whether fishing, swim- Nearby is Janes Island State Park, ming, camping, canoeing, biking or From Princess Anne heading which has been recognized by the An imperfect loop links Princess even parasailing. south, bear right on MD 413 American Canoe Association as one Anne, Snow Hill, Salisbury and other toward the waterfront commu- of “12 recommended water trails Lower Eastern Shore towns to form Princess Anne to Pocomoke the shell of the Blue Crab byway, City –– Somerset Ave, US 13, while several branches extend out like MD 413 to Crisfield, MD 667, stubby legs and curved claws toward US 13, Market St the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic Named for the daughter of King Ocean. Expect plenty of appetizing George II, the hamlet of Princess experiences as you drive through this Anne was established in 1733. Today, water-laced land to enjoy limitless about 300 of the town’s Federal-style sightseeing, small-town warmth, and and Victorian structures, including the

162 nationwide.” More than 30 miles of Catching the next boat back to the marked water trails meander through mainland, follow 413 north to MD some 2,900 acres of creeks and 667 to pass through Rehobeth, site marshes, providing excellent vantage of the oldest church in the country to points for spying wildlife. Campsites, remain exclusively Presbyterian, and backcountry camping platforms and a head for Pocomoke City. This deep- boat ramp are also available. water river port rests along a state- owned forest famous for its stands of Accessible only by boat from Crisfield loblolly pines. In town, you will find a is Smith Island, the most isolated and one-room school museum and the unique of Maryland’s Chesapeake Costen House, built shortly after the islands. This bay-dependent commu- Civil War and showing off exquisite so aggressively protecting its American heritage. nity has remained relatively Victorian Italianate architecture. It Established in 1686, it features a former one-room school- unchanged since the first English set- was once the home of Pocomoke’s house built in 1869, as well as a museum where you can discover tlers arrived here in the 17th century. first mayor. four centuries’ worth of rich regional history. Also displayed are the needle- Visit the Smith Island Center to art pictures of the museum’s namesake, Julia A. Purnell. explore the area’s history, the life of a Pocomoke City to Ocean City – waterman, and the influence of the US 113, US 113 Bus, US 50 A sidetrack west on MD 12/Old Furnace Rd. and across Nassawango Creek leads to the Furnace Town Living Heritage bay on islanders, and then head to East of Pocomoke City approaching Museum. Artisans in 19th-century attire toil at village shops. Nature trails wind through the 25-acre property, and muse- the Martin’s National Wildlife Refuge the Atlantic Ocean, Snow Hill stands um exhibits tell tales of workers who once operated Maryland’s only bog-ore furnace. to learn more about wildfowl and as one of the Eastern Shore’s oldest their migratory patterns. towns and was recently recognized a Take the Public Landing Branch along MD 365 to Chincoteague Bay, where the E.A. Vaughn Kayak Trail incorporates 15 “Preserve America” community for miles of water routes between two boat landings. Rent a canoe in Snow Hill or farther east on Assateague Island, which 164 165 is found down another branch of this inviting white sand runs alongside a Museum of Wildfowl Art, you will where a wildlife management area byway. Wild ponies roam freely on variety of oceanside or bayside enjoy seeing the largest collection of promises exceptional bird watching the island’s two miles of ocean accommodations, water slides, decorative bird carvings in the world. and photography. Back at Cox’s beaches, around secluded bayside amusement park rides and the world- And down the road past a minor- Corner, drive south on MD 352 to coves, and along marsh trails. Look famous boardwalk. You can also league baseball stadium is one of the cross the Wicomico River on the into camping, hiking, fishing and bik- choose from charter sailing, jet skiing, finest free-admission “small zoos” in Whitehaven Ferry, which has been in ing opportunities available at both a parasailing, surfing, windsurfing, the nation. continuous use since 1688. state park and a national seashore swimming and other water activities. area. A sidetrack off of MD 349 leads to OLD LINE LORE: Ocean City grew Ocean City to Princess Anne – Pemberton Park, the centerpiece of out of its roots as a humble fishing vil- Back on the main loop, Antebellum MD 346, 349 & 352, White which is a typical 18th-century plan- lage to become “The Ladies Resort to the houses line tree-shaded streets in the Haven Rd, MD 3621 tation house. Surrounding it are 4.5 Ocean” in the 1870s. It continued to town of Berlin, which grew up in the Moving inland again, you will soon miles of nature trails among tidal and develop a decade later with the coming 19th century around a tavern, public be greeted by the friendly town of freshwater wetlands, meadows and of the railroad, and is now recognized as stable and blacksmith shop. For local Salisbury. Having established itself as forests. the East Coast’s “number one family history and lore, visit the Calvin B. the urban center of the region, resort.” Taylor House Museum before teeing Salisbury boasts an historic, pedestri- There is a Sharptown Branch of the up at one of the area’s popular golf an-friendly Downtown Plaza with Blue Crab byway that runs from Assateague Island National courses. specialty shops housed in Victorian Quantico, north on MD 348, to link Seashore structures. Browse among antiques into the Chesapeake Country byway 7206 National Seashore Ln The next branch runs right into and country crafts, admire artwork at (page 139). Meanwhile, the road Berlin, 21811 Ocean City, Maryland’s largest local galleries, and tour the Georgian- back to Princess Anne takes you past 410-641-1441, 410-641-3030 seashore resort. A 10-mile strand of style Poplar Hill Mansion. At the Ward a branch to the Nanticoke River, www.nps.gov/asis

166 167 Assateague Island State Park J. Millard Tawes Historical Ocean City Life-Saving Station Smith Island Center 7307 Stephen Decatur Hwy Museum Museum 20846 Caleb Jones Rd Berlin, 21811 3 Ninth St, Somers Cove Marina 813 S Boardwalk Smith Island, 21824 410-641-2120, 1-888-432-2267 Crisfield, 21817 Ocean City, 21843 410-425-3351, 1-800-521-9189 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/east 410-968-2501 410-289-4991 www.smithisland.org ern/assateague.html http://skipjack.net/le_shore/visitsomer- www.ocmuseum.org set/tawes_museum.html Teackle Mansion Calvin B. Taylor House Museum Pocomoke River State Forest 11736 Mansion St 208 N Main St Janes Island State Park 3461 Worcester Hwy Princess Anne, 21853 Berlin, 21811 26280 Alfred Lawson Dr Snow Hill, 21863 410-651-2238, 1-800-521-9189 410-641-1019 Crisfield, 21817 410-632-2566 www.teacklemansion.org www.taylorhousemuseum.org 410-968-1565 www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/east www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/east ern/pocomokeforest.html Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art Furnace Town Living Heritage ern/janesisland.html 909 S Shumaker Dr Museum Salisbury Zoo and Park Salisbury University, Salisbury, 21804 3816 Old Furnace Rd Julia A. Purnell Museum 755 S Park Dr 410-742-4988 Snow Hill, 21863 208 W Market St Salisbury, 21802 www.wardmuseum.org 410-632-2032 Snow Hill, 21863 410-548-3188 www.furnacetown.com 410-632-0515 www.salisburyzoo.org www.purnellmuseum.com

168 169 Wicomico County Convention & Destination Marketing CALVERT COUNTY DORCHESTER COUNTY KENT COUNTY Organizations Calvert Cty. Dept. of Economic Dorchester County Tourism Kent County Office of Tourism Visitors Bureau Development 2 Rose Hill Place Development 8480 Ocean Hwy 205 Main Street, 2nd Floor Cambridge, MD 21613 400 High Street, 2nd Floor Prince Frederick, MD 20678 410-228-1000 Chestertown, MD 21620 Delmar 21875 ALLEGANY COUNTY 410-535-4583; 800-331-9771 410-810-2830 Allegany County Dept. of Tourism 800-332-TOUR (8687) FREDERICK COUNTY 13 Canal Place, Rm 306 CAROLINE COUNTY Tourism Council of Frederick MONTGOMERY COUNTY www.wicomicotourism.org Cumberland, MD 21502 15 S. Third Street County, Inc. CVB of Montgomery, MD, Inc. 301-777-5134; 800-425-2067 Denton, MD 21629 19 E. Church Street 111 Rockville Pike, Suite 800 (410) 479-2730 Frederick, MD 21701 Rockville, MD 20850 ANNAPOLIS/ANNE ARUNDEL 301-600-2888; 800-999-3613 240-777-2060; 877-789-6904 COUNTY CARROLL COUNTY Annapolis & Anne Arundel Cty. Carroll County Visitor Center GARRETT COUNTY PRINCE GEORGE’S COUNTY CVB 210 E. Main Street Garrett County Chamber of Prince George’s County CVB 26 West Street Westminster, MD 21157 Commerce 9200 Basil Court, Suite 101 Annapolis, MD 21401 1-800-272-1933; 410-848-1388 15 Visitors Center Drive Largo, MD 20774 410-280-0445; Balto. Line: 410- McHenry, MD 21541 301-925-8300 974-8188 CECIL COUNTY 301-387-4386 Cecil County Tourism QUEEN ANNE’S COUNTY BALTIMORE CITY 1 Seahawk Drive, Suite 114 HARFORD COUNTY Queen Anne’s County Office of Balto. Area Convention & Visitors North East, MD 21901 Harford County Office of Tourism Tourism Association 410-996-6292 OR 1-800-CECIL-95 1250 Bulle Rock Parkway 425 Piney Narrows Road 100 Light Street, 12th Floor Havre de Grace, MD 21078 Chester, MD 21619 Baltimore, MD 21202 CHARLES COUNTY 410-939-6631 410-604-2100 410-319-0977 Charles County Office of Tourism PO Box 2150 HOWARD COUNTY ST. MARY’S COUNTY BALTIMORE COUNTY 9 Washington Avenue Howard County Tourism, Inc. St. Mary’s County Dept. of Econ. Baltimore County CVB LaPlata, MD 20646 P.O. Box 9; & Community Dev. P.O. Box 5426 301-645-0558; 800-766-3386 Deliveries: 8267 Main St P.O. Box 653; 23115 Leonard Hall Dr. Lutherville, MD 21094-5426 Ellicott City, MD 21043 Leonardtown, MD 20650 410-296-4886; 800-570-2836 410-313-1900; 800-288-8747 301-475-4200 x1404 (toll free-office) 170 171 SOMERSET COUNTY Tourism Somerset County Tourism P.O. Box 158; (Deliveries): 4001 P.O. Box 243; (Deliveries): 11440 Coastal Hwy. Ocean Hwy. Ocean City, MD 21842 Princess Anne, MD 21853 410-723-8600 410-651-2968; 800-521-9189 Ocean City TALBOT COUNTY Tourism/Convention Center Heritage Tourism Alliance of Talbot County Office of Tourism 4001 Coastal Highway Southern Maryland Heritage Canal Place Heritage Area Heart of Chesapeake Country Montgomery County 11 S. Harrison Street Ocean City, MD 21842 Area 13 Canal Street, Room 301 – Heritage Area 12535 Milestone Manor Lane Easton, MD 21601 410-723-8617; 1-800-626-2326; PO Box 745 Cumberland, 21502 2 Rose Hill Place Germantown, 20876 410-770-8000 Fax: 410-289-0058 301-724-3655 301-515-0753 Hughesville, 20637 Cambridge, 21613 301-274-4083 www.canalplace.org 410-228-1000 www.HeritageMontgomery.org WASHINGTON COUNTY www.SouthernMdIsFun.com www.tourchesapeakecountry.com Hagerstown-Washington Cty. CVB Heritage Areas 16 Public Square Hagerstown, MD 21740 301-791-3246

WICOMICO COUNTY Wicomico County CVB 8480 Ocean Highway Four Rivers: The Heritage Area Lower Susquehanna Heritage Delmar, MD 21875 Stories of the Chesapeake of Annapolis, London Town & Heart of the Civil War Greenway 410-548-4914; 800-332-TOUR South County http://brokenclaw.com/biking/sus Heritage Area Heritage Area P. O. Box 727 Arundel Center, P.O. Box 2700 19 E. Church Street quehanna.html WORCESTER COUNTY Baltimore Heritage Area Chestertown, 21620 44 Calvert Street, MS 1106 Frederick, 21701 Worcester County Tourism Room 346 City Hall 410-778-1460 Annapolis, 21401-1930 (301) 600-4042 104 West Market Street 100 N. Holliday Street www.storiesofthechesapeake.org 410-222-1805 www.heartofthecivilwar.org Snow Hill, MD 21863 Baltimore, 21202 www.fourriversheritage.org 410-632-3110; 800-852-0335 410 396-1954 www.starspangledtrails.org OCEAN CITY Ocean City CVB/Ocean City

172 173 Acknowledgements Photography Credits National Park Service, U.S. Points of Attractions Berrywine Plantations/Linganore Chesapeake Farms: 144 Fort Frederick State Park: 14 Index Winecellars: 59 Department of the Interior Cranesville Subartic Swamp: 22 Gambrill State Park: 51 This guide book was developed and © 1998 Kent County Office of Richard Lippenholz Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge: 149 Cray House and Train Depot: 147 Garrett State Forest: 22 funded through a partnership Tourism Development Terry Maxwell, Maryland State 1st Mariner Arena: 93 between the Maryland State Highway © 1999 Washington County Tourism Highway Administration Blue Blazes Whiskey Still: 52 Cromwell Valley Park: 82 Geddes-Piper House: 144 Administation, Maryland Department © 2000 Lardner/Klein Landscape Tim Tadder Adkins Arboretum: 159 Boordy Vineyards: 81 Cunningham Falls State Park: 51 Green Ridge State Forest: 15 of Business and Economic Architects The Walters Art Museum, Baltimore Appalachian National Development's Office of Tourism © 2001 John Milner Associates Tysha Manigo Scenic Trail: 13 Bucktown Village Store: 156 Cygnus Wine Cellars: 65 Greenbrier State Park: 45 Development and the National © 2005 Bernadette Van Pelt U.S. Naval Academy Photo Lab Applewood Farm: 69 Deep Creek Lake State Park: 20 Gunpowder Falls State Park: 70 Scenic Byways Program. © Mary Means & Associates, Inc. Canal Place Heritage Area: 16 © QAC Department of Business & *Copyright information and usage terms provided by the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Carroll County Arts Council: 58 Discovery Center: 22 Hagerstown Roundhouse Digital Media Library are subject to change without notice Museum: 16 Tourism Museum: 17 and are accurate to the best of their knowledge. Carroll County Farm Museum: 58 Eastern Neck National Wildlife America’s Byways ®* Baltimore Basilica: 92 Refuge: 144 Hampton National Historic Baltimore Area Convention and Casselman River Bridge State Site: 81 Baltimore Heritage Walk: 95 Park: 16 Eden Mill Park and Nature Visitors Association Center: 69 Herrington Manor State Park: 23 Blaise Willig Baltimore Museum of Art: 92 Catoctin Furnace: 51 Printer-insert appropriate Greg Cooley, Maryland State Highway Elk Run Vineyards: 59 Historic B&O Train Station: 23 FSC logo here Baltimore Streetcar Museum: 74 Catoctin Mountain Park: 48 Administration Fair Hill Natural Resource Historical Society of Carroll Baltimore Visitor Center: 94 Mark M. Odell, Governor’s Office, Catoctin Wildlife Preserve Management Area: 68 County: 61 and Zoo: 49 State of Maryland Bazzel Methodist Episcopal Fiore Winery: 67 Homewood House Museum: 91 Mary Ann Lisanti Church: 156 Cecil County Dragway: 68 Michael Dersin Fishing Bay Wildlife Management Kent Museum: 142 Benjamin Banneker Historical Chesapeake & Delaware Canal Area: 150 Park & Museum: 16 Museum (1837): 151 LaVale Toll Gate House: 17

174 175 Loch Raven Reservoir: 81 National Shrine of St. Elizabeth Roland: 76 The Hippodrome Theatre at the Ann Seton: 53 France-Merrick Performing Arts Loew Vineyards: 59 Rock Hall Museum: 144 Center: 93 Navy Point: 151 Lonaconing Iron Furnace and Rocks State Park: 67 Thrasher Carriage Museum: 18 Park: 26 New Windsor Conference Center: 59 Rocky Gap State Park: 15 Union Mills Homestead and Grist Lovely Lane Museum: 96 Mill: 58 Oregon Ridge Nature Center Roddy Road Covered Bridge: 49 Martinak State Park: 158 and Park: 72 Visitors Center at Sailwinds Roger Brooke Taney & Francis Park: 154 Maryland Science Center: 94 Oxford Museum: 148 Scott Key Museum: 17 Walters Art Museum: 92 Maryland Zoo in Baltimore: 92 Oxford-Bellevue Ferry: 152 Savage River State Forest: 16 Washington Monument State McDaniel College: 61 Peabody Institute: 92 Schooner Sultana 1768 and the Park: 13 Sultana Center: 152 Mount Harmon Plantation: 142 Pickering Creek Audubon Western Maryland Railway Center: 148 Shawan Downs: 78 Historical Society Museum: 59 Museum of Eastern Shore Life: 146 Plumpton Park Zoo: 68 Sherwood Gardens: 91 Western Maryland Scenic Railroad & The Old Frostburg Museum of Rural Life: 159 South Mountain State Park: 13 Port Discovery: 94 Depot: 18 National Lacrosse Museum and Stanley Institute: 155 Potomac State Forest: 23 Wilson’s General Store/One Room Hall of Fame: 96 Schoolhouse: 14 Prettyboy Reservoir: 65 Swallow Falls State Park: 22 National Museum of Civil War Wisp Mountain Resort: 22 Medicine: 12 Richardson Maritime Museum the Children’s Museum of Rose Hill Manor: 12 and Boatworks: 149 Wye Grist Mill and Museum: 152 National Shrine Grotto of Lourdes: 49 Robert E. Lee Park & Lake The Cloisters: 73

176 M a r y l a n d B

This publication was created and is y w distributed in partnership with the Federal Highway Administration, the Maryland State Highway Administration and the a

Maryland Office y s of Tourism.