HOW TO RAISE AND TRAIN A STAFFORDSHIRE

By Edwin E. Rosenblum

Distributed in the U.S.A. by T.F.H. Publications, Inc., 211 West Sylva- nia Avenue, P.O. Box 27, Neptune City, N.J. 07753; in England by T.F.H. (Gt. Britain) Ltd., 13 Nutley Lane, Reigate, Surrey; in Canada to the book store and library trade by Clarke, Irwin & Company, Clarwin House, 791 St. Clair Avenue West, Toronto 10, Ontario; in Canada to the trade by Rolf C. Hagen Ltd., 3225 Sartelon Street, Montreal 382, Quebec; in Southeast Asia by Y.W. Ong, 9 Lorong 36 Geylang, Singapore 14; in Australia and the south Pacific by Pet Imports Pty. Ltd., P.O. Box 149, Brookvale 2100, N.S.W., Australia. Published by T.F.H. Publications Inc. Ltd., The British Crown Colony of Hong Kong. TO MY WIFE CECEIL

Frontispiece

Ch. Gallant Ruff's Susie Q, bred by Miss Martha V. Smith,

owned by Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Stinson.

ISBN 0-87666-399-4

© 1964 by T.F.H. Publications, Inc. Rights reserved throughout the world. Contents

ORIGIN OF THE STAFFORDSHIRE TERRIER 4

Purpose of development . . . Ancestors . . . Bull Terrier

. . . Staffordshire Bull Terrier . . . Staffordshire Terrier . . . Terrier BUYING THE 7

What age . . . Which sex . . . Health signs . . . Where to

buy . . . Pedigrees and registration THE NEW PUPPY AT HOME 12

First day . . . The 's bed . . . The doghouse . . . Feeding TRAINING 19

Consistency . . . Rewards . . . "No" . . . Walking on leash

. . . Housetraining . . . Paper-training . . .

. . . Obedience training . . . Training gear . . . Sit . . .

Stay . . . Come . . . Heeling GROOMING 34

Brushing . . . Bathing . . . Ears . . . Claws . . . Teeth MATING 37

Spaying . . . Estrus . . . Mating . . . Contracts and shipping

. . . The stud . . . Breeding terms REPRODUCTION 42

Pregnancy . . . Whelping box . . . Whelping . . . Postpartum

feeding . . . Postpartum occurrences . . . Eclampsia . . .

. . . Puppy formula . . . Puppy feeding and weaning . . . Puppy sleep HEALTH 47

Distemper . . . Hepatitis . . . Leptospirosis . . . Hard pad

disease . . . Housedog disease . . . Pneumonia . . .

. . . Roundworms . . . Fleas . . . Other worm parasites and ticks DOG SHOWS 59

Types of shows . . . Entry requirements . . . Regular classes

. . . Championships . . . Non-regular classes . . . U.K.C.

dog shows . . . Obedience trials . . . Handlers . . . Stafford- shire Terrier standard I. Origin of the Staffordshire Terrier

The Staffordshire Terrier is considered by many to be the most powerful dog, pound for pound, ever developed. It is a robust, muscular, and cour- ageous dog, admirably suited for guard duty. In several of the southern states, it is also used as a "catch" dog to round up wild-ranging hogs that may weigh over 400 pounds. Catch , by daring and agility, fasten their teeth into the ear or jowl of a hog to distract and hinder the animal, allowing it to be roped and tied. The Staffordshire Terrier will also hunt rats and other vermin, as other do, and yet it is quite at home in the family living room. Its medium size and short coat permit it to live comfortably in a city apartment without excessive care.

The Staffordshire Terrier owes its characteristics and even its origin to the grueling sport of dogfighting. The Staffordshire Terrier and the closely related Bull Terrier are the only two modern European or American breeds specifically developed as fighting dogs. For many centuries bull-, or the pitting of dogs against bulls, was generally the most popular form of animal combat in Britain. In the early 1800's, however, bull-baiting declined in popularity and was finally out- lawed in 1835, though some unscrupulous individuals continued the pastime for a number of years afterward. The demise of bull-baiting permitted dog- fighting, which had previously been unable to maintain a large following, to attract increased attention. The courageous Bulldog—a large, long-legged animal weighing 80 to 90 pounds and resembling a or a large Staf- fordshire Terrier—was considered too slow for dogfighting and, consequently, was crossed with various types of terriers to produce a lighter and faster dog. The resulting hybrids were known as Bull-and-Terriers or Bull Terriers.

It is not certain which terriers were used in this breeding, but the old English White Terrier (which probably became extinct in the early 1900's), the Black-and-Tan (Manchester) Terrier, and the Fox Terrier are con- sidered the most likely candidates, with many authorities giving credit to the English White Terrier. Actually, during this period, these three terriers did not differ greatly in body , and any or all of them could have been used with approximately similar results. Consequently, there was little conformity among the Bull-and-Terriers themselves; some retained a Bulldog-like appearance and weighed up to 50 pounds, while others resembled terriers and rarely weighed more than 20 pounds.

4 The English White Terrier, now extinct, resembled the Manchester Terrier in body conformation. It was a very game dog and is considered to be, along with the old Bulldog, the ancestor of the Staffordshire Terrier.

The original Bulldog, meanwhile, became very rare, and only a deter- mined effort by several breeders saved it from extinction. These fanciers, supposedly by crossing Bulldogs with Pugs, gradually modified the original into the modern short-legged breed. In the 1860's, James Hinks of Birmingham, England, crossed the Bull- and-Terrier back to the English White Terrier, and possibly also added traces of other whitish varieties, such as the Pointer and Dalmatian, to produce a new all-white breed known as the White Bull Terrier. The original Bull-and-Terrier, whose greatest popularity as a fighting dog was among the coal miners and ironworkers of Staffordshire in central Eng- land, became known as the Staffordshire Bull Terrier to distinguish it from the new breed. Later, the Colored Bull Terrier was developed by crossing the White Bull Terrier with the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. A number of Staffordshire Bull Terriers were sent to the United States shortly after the Civil War. These imported dogs are believed to have been bred to very similar, but distinctly American, strains of Bull-and-Terriers. In 1898, C. B. Bennett set up a stud book, called the United Kennel Club, for the registry of this breed. He chose "Pit Bull Terrier" from the galaxy of names applied to the breed (such as Pit Dog, Half-and-Half, American Bull Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, and Yankee Terrier) as the official

5 name of the American strain. Bennett also established official rules and regulations for the pitting of these dogs. In England, the Staffordshire Bull Terrier had no standard other than its gameness and endurance in the pit; indeed, three different varieties developed, the first being terrier-like in conformation and weighing less than 35 pounds; the second, taller and somewhat heavier; and the third, resembling the old breed of bulldog. In 1935, however, a number of British breeders succeeded in having the Staffordshire Bull Terrier officially recognized by the Kennel Club. These fanciers patterned the official breed standard after their own local strain, which closely resembled the old Bulldog. In the United States, about the same time, a group of Pit Bull Terrier breeders attempted to gain A.K.C. recognition for their breed. They felt that the pit-fighting reputation of the U.K.C. dogs hindered the general acceptance of this fine breed and that a greater popularity would be achieved if the breed was under A.K.C. supervision. Accordingly, they peti- tioned the A.K.C. for breed recognition; to facilitate acceptance they changed the breed name to Staffordshire Terrier to conform more closely with the British dogs and the breed's history. The A.K.C. granted official recognition in 1936. The first Pit Bull Terrier officially registered as a Staffordshire Terrier with the A.K.C. was "Pete," the famous dog com- panion of the youngsters in the "Our Gang" film comedies of the 1930's. In addition to the A.K.C. and the U.K.C.—which today registers Toy Fox Terriers, , and Coonhounds, and supervises field trials for the Coonhounds—Staffordshire Terriers may also be registered (as Pit Bull Terriers) with the American Dog Breeders Association. The history of the breed, whose end result was the redoubtable and dependable companion and guard we know today, is such that the Stafford- shire Terrier is ever willing to test its mettle against other dogs. For this reason (as well as the danger of automobile accidents, poisoning, etc.), your Staffordshire Terrier should never be allowed to run at large. 2. Buying the Puppy WHAT AGE The initial decisions confronting the prospective buyer of a Staffordshire Terrier are what age and sex should the dog be? A large number, probably the majority, of are sold at six to nine weeks of age. It is true that such young puppies are tiny and appealing, but great difficulties may arise because a puppy of this age, like a child of one year, simply cannot control its bladder and bowel movements. Premature attempts at housebreaking or any other disciplinary training can permanently damage the personality of the dog. In addition, the very young puppy commonly needs worming treatment, puppy-dosage inoculations, and a number of daily feedings. These factors have led most authorities to recommend purchasing a puppy of four to six months in age. Recent findings concerning young puppies will be discussed under "Training." Puppies of the four-to-six-month age group not only retain the engaging juvenile characteristics but can also be given permanent inoculations and are capable of complying with basic train- ing procedures. Some experts recommend purchasing even older dogs, of seven months or more in age. These young animals are still very adaptable and can be molded to suit your tastes. Though they may have lost a lot of the puppy cuteness, they offer all the advantages of the four-to-six-month group and, in addition, enable you to discern faults in body structure or other shortcomings that would not have been detectable at an earlier age. The adult dog should not be discounted either. Generally, an older dog kept in an outdoor kennel all its life may not take readily to apartment- house living, and it may have other well-ingrained habits that, though not necessarily bad in themselves, would not be adaptable to the new owner. Nevertheless, older dogs can and do learn to love their new masters and readily take their place in the family routine. If a prospective buyer is seeking guaranteed, rather than potential, performance in any specialized area (such as use as a showdog, catchdog, or vermin killer) the only answer is the proven adult dog. WHICH SEX Many people, without giving the subject much consideration, will buy a male dog and completely reject the female as a possibility. This prejudice often denies the purchaser a dog greatly more suited to his requirements. Females are generally more tractable and train more easily than male dogs;

7 they tend to roam less and do not generally become embroiled in hazardous escapades.

The commonplace operation of spaying eliminates the necessity of restricted confinement twice a year and any special sanitary problems. Spay- ing does not alter the mental faculties of the female nor, if done competently and at the proper age, result in any physiological problems. Unless you plan to become a professional Staffordshire Terrier breeder, a vocation or avocation that entails numerous dog shows, considerable travel, and much financial risk, it is wisest to spay your female. This also avoids any un- planned breeding that would simply add more unwanted to the multitudes awaiting death at the local dog pound. Male dogs tend to be larger and bolder than females and have a greater tendency to roam. The price of show-stock (championship quality) male and female puppies is usually the same, although females at times command higher prices because of their breeding potential. In pet-stock puppies, or those having certain flaws that would handicap their chances of winning at dog shows, a female generally sells for less than a male. This is due solely to the prejudice of the buying public. The flaws in pet-stock puppies are generally absolutely meaningless to the average pet owner and should not deter him from making such a purchase.

Ch. Lylane Bucky-T, bred and owned by Elizabeth Tregoning.

8 HEALTH SIGNS

Before buying a puppy, it would be wise to familiarize yourself with a number of readily observed signs that indicate a healthy or sick puppy. A healthy puppy has a plump appearance and is alert and frisky (unless sleepy after a meal) ; its eyes are bright and its coat shiny and full; its teeth are white and the gums firm and pink; the inside of its ears should be free of infection and inflammation. The puppy's temperature should be approxi- mately 101.5 °F. Be wary of a puppy with a mucous discharge from its eyes or nose or one with a cough or evidence of diarrhea. If the puppy's coat is dry and patchy or if it has a rash on its back, stomach, or the inner surface of its legs, it probably has a fungal infection or mites. The com- mon navel hernia is indicated by a soft rounded protrusion in the navel region of the belly. The puppy should be tested for deafness by snapping your finger or making some other noise where the puppy cannot see the source of the sound. If you cannot attract his attention after a number of efforts, he probably has impaired hearing. The puppy's legs should also be checked; unnaturally crooked legs may be evidence of rickets. WHERE TO BUY A PUPPY

If you are seeking a show dog or any special-purpose dog, it is probably wisest to get your puppy from someone who specializes in the type of Staffordshire Terrier you are seeking. You may contact the American Kennel Club at 221 Park Avenue South, New York City, to obtain the address of the Staffordshire Terrier Club, which will supply you with a list of breeders. If you have a chance to visit a , the Staffordshire Terrier exhibitors may have puppies for sale or may be able to direct you to a good source. It is always best to see the puppies' parents and fami- liarize yourself with their disposition and character, as their offspring will probably inherit many of their traits. Pet-stock or show-stock Staffordshire Terriers may also be purchased from kennels, petshops, or the pet depart- ments of department stores. You may also search through the classified ads in dog magazines or your local newspaper. If you live far from all sources, you can buy by mail. You must, however, pay the cost of shipping and, if the dog is unsatisfactory, the return freight, which adds substantially to the cost of the dog. In a mail-order transaction, it is advisable to get a written description of the dog and its qualities, plus a written guarantee that the dog was healthy at the time of shipment. It is also wise to have a written agreement that should the dog, if a male, be a cryptorchid (no visible testicles) or a monorchid (only one visible testicle) the seller will refund your money or replace the dog with one of equal value. (See section on shipping of females for breeding for further details on shipment.)

Most breeders will have had the puppy wormed before you buy it, but you should always find out exactly what sort of treatments the puppy has

9 had and when it had them, and get it in writing. Your veterinarian will then be able to determine what other medications are necessary. Puppies and older dogs should have temporary or permanent, depending upon their age, inoculations for distemper, hepatitis, and rabies. Your veterinarian can advise you if additional immunizations are needed in your specific area. The veterinarian should also be given a small sample of the dog's stool for microscopic examination in order to determine whether worm eggs are pre- sent and if additional worming is required. PEDIGREE AND REGISTRATION A pedigree is simply a record of the dog's ancestors. If the ancestor of a were recorded for one or more generations, it too would have a pedigree. The term "pedigreed" therefore does not necessarily mean "pure- bred." To insure both the continuity and validity of purebred lines, there- fore, punctilious registry groups have been formed to maintain a carefully regulated record of breed lineages. The largest and most influential registry in the United States is the American Kennel Club. Registration with the A.K.C. proceeds as follows: (1) Both the mother (dam) and father (sire) of the litter must be regi- stered with the A.K.C. Certain exceptions are made for foreign dogs. (2) The owner of the dam registers the litter of puppies as a group by

filling out an official litter-registration application that is also signed

by the owner of the sire. This application is then submitted with a fee to the A.K.C. (3) About four weeks later, the owner of the litter receives registration applications for each individual puppy in the litter. The individual puppy

cannot be registered unless the litter as a whole has previously been regi- stered. Many large kennels will register individual puppies themselves,

rather than let the new owner do it. Though this entails some additional

expense for the kennel, it enables the kennel to use its name as part of

the dog's official title; this serves to identify and advertise the dogs they have bred. In this event, you will have to transfer official ownership to yourself; follow the instructions for transfer and submit the application

to the A.K.C. If you are to register your new puppy yourself, its

registration application must be signed by the owner of the litter. You

then select a name of 25 letters or less, plus one alternative name, in

case your first choice duplicates a name already in use for an A.K.C.- registered Staffordshire Terrier, and submit them with the completed

application and a fee to the A.K.C. In a few weeks or so, the process-

ing is completed and you receive the dog's Certificate of Registration. All A.K.C.-registered dogs, therefore, should have either a Certificate

of Registration or a signed application for registering. Once the dog is registered, you can write the A.K.C. and, for a fee, receive an official

10 Ch. Lylane Blue Tango, bred and owned by Elizabeth Tregoning. The Stafford-

shire Terrier is a dog that looks like a dog. Photo by Lyle.

three- or four-generation pedigree of your dog. Many kennels will supply you with the copy of the dog's pedigree at no charge. One word of caution: an unofficial pedigree supplied for an unregistered

dog may be completely false. You should also be wary of any dealer

who consistently sells purebred dogs "with papers" for a higher price

than dogs "without papers," for you have no guarantee the dog is

purebred, and, even if it is, the breeder is simply taking advantage of you. It happens, or course, that a breeder may have applied for but not yet received the registration of the puppy you are buying, in which case you will have to wait a few weeks before the registration arrives.

11 3. The New Puppy at Home

The first few days of a puppy's introduction to a new household are

important ones for both you and the puppy. Give it time to adapt. Don't

let a multitude of people handle and confuse the puppy. Show children the correct way of holding the puppy—one hand underneath the puppy and the other placed securely on top. Nighttime may bring whining and crying;

this is generally assumed to be caused by loneliness. To assuage this condi-

tion, you can take the puppy to bed with you, but this is hazardous for both you and the puppy. Some people advocate keeping in the puppy in a cor- rugated carton near the bedside, where your presence will comfort the dog.

It is generally believed that the puppy misses the warmth and company of his littermates and mother. A hot-water bottle {not a potentially dangerous

electric blanket), about three-quarters full, wrapped in a towel or soft cloth and placed in the puppy's bed, will provide the warmth, and a loud-ticking windup clock placed alongside the bed will provide the puppy with company. If you have obtained a full-grown dog, you should try to familiarize your- self with the dog's previous training and know what commands the previous owner used. If possible, try to bring along some of the dog's familiar belong- ings, such as his food dish or a toy, to help him overcome the strangeness of the new surroundings. THE DOG'S BED

It is best to decide beforehand where the dog will sleep. The location should be free of drafts, not too close to a source of heat, and in an area where stains will not leave lasting impressions. Some dogs, as they grow older, will abandon your offered site and choose their own. This usually works out quite well unless the dog decides on a special piece of furniture or some other place that you consider unsuitable. The dog's bed can be a corrugated carton with an old towel, blanket, or other soft cloth placed on the bottom, or it may be a deluxe metal or wicker bed with a foam rubber mattress. THE DOG HOUSE If the puppy is to be kept out-of-doors, you should wait until warm weather before confining it to a dog house. Keeping the Staffordshire Ter- rier outdoors all year round in cold areas, however, may lead to serious ailments.

12 A doghouse should be at least 1^ times as high as the dog, and his sleep- ing quarters within the doghouse should be twice as wide as the dog's height. A roofed-over porch, as wide as the doghouse and from 1^ to 2 feet deep, provides an outdoor shelter for the dog and makes the doghouse much

more serviceable. A doghouse with a draft-free sleeping area is especially good; this can be easily achieved by placing a short or partial wall inside the doghouse perpendicular to the entrance, which divides the house into an entrance hall and a sleeping area. The dog then has to proceed from the entrance to the rear of the doghouse and pass around the far end of the inside wall before turning into his sleeping quarters. In colder weather, a commercially marketed dog-door or, more simply, a piece of carpeting

tacked across the entrance will help to reduce the chill. Adding insulation

to the doghouse is always advisable, because it minimizes the effects of both hot and cold weather. To avoid dampness, the bottom of the doghouse should never rest directly on the ground, but instead should be placed on

legs or on bricks set under each corner. The roof, which should be remov- able to allow thorough cleaning of the doghouse, should be slanted so that

rain will run off. The doghouse should be well shaded in the summertime,

Ch. Luke's Georgias Rebel, bred Mr. E. C. Ringold, owned by Mr. and Mrs.

I. N. Stinson. The alert, attentive expression displayed by Rebel is characteristic of the breed. Photo by Young and Patterson.

13 or it will heat up like an oven; in colder weather, sunshine is helpful. A movable doghouse which can be relocated to take advantage of seasonal

conditions is therefore preferable. The floor of the dog's sleeping quarters should be covered with some type of bedding material (such as cedar shav- ings) to prevent sores and callouses from forming on the dog's legs and body.

FEEDING An average 50-pound dog requires- about 35 calories per pound per day, or a total of 1750 calories per day. A hard- will require more than a house pet. A growing puppy, however, needs approximately 70 calories, or about twice as much, as the mature dog per pound per day.

Do not be alarmed, therefore, if the puppy sems to eat a lot. A pleas- antly plump puppy is generally a healthy one. This does not mean you should let the puppy over-eat and become so fat that he has to waddle when he walks. Any sudden change in a dog's diet may produce bowel disorders; you should always inquire as to what food the puppy has been getting, and only gradually try to effect a change to a new diet.

The following menu is offered as a suitable diet: TWO MONTHS OLD: Morning: Five or six tablespoons of cow's milk (if cow's milk upsets your puppy, use a mixture of one-half evaporated milk and one-half water—a simple and very digestible formula) mixed with three to five tablespoons of puppy meal or baby cereal to a creamy consistency.

Noon: One or two heaping tablespoons of raw finely- ground beef or horsemeat. (The less-expensive cuts of ground beef that contain a higher percentage of fat are preferable.) A good quality canned , which means the more expensive brands, may be substituted for the ground beef. A liquid or powder vitamin supplement should be added. In

addition, one-half teaspoon of cod liver oil and, if necessary, a sprinkling of bone meal or dicalcium phosphate may also be given. Afternoon: Repeat the morning meal. Evening: Repeat the noon meal. Before sleep: Five or six tablespoons of milk. THREE MONTHS OLD:

Morning: About three-fourths cup of milk mixed with five

14 Ch. Crusader's Flirtation, bred by Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Stinson, owned by Miss Martha V. Smith. Slip chains such as used on this beautiful brindle and white bitch are available at your petshop. Photo by Young and Patterson.

or six tablespoons of puppy meal or baby cereal to a creamy consistency. Noon: Three or four heaping tablespoons of ground beef, horsemeat, or good quality canned dog food, plus a vitamin supplement. One-half teaspoon of cod liver

oil and a sprinkling of bone meal or dicalcium phosphate may be added. Late afternoon Repeat noon meal. Late evening: Repeat morning meal. FOUR-FIVE MONTHS OLD: Morning: One and one-half cups of milk (powdered milk may be used) mixed with approximately one cup of good dog meal or cereal to a porridge-like con- sistency. Noon: Six or seven heaping tablespoons of chopped or ground beef, horsemeat, or canned dog food, plus a vitamin supplement. One-half teaspoon of cod

1.5 liver oil and a sprinkling of bone meal or dicalcium phosphate may be added. Late afternoon: Repeat noon meal. Evening: Repeat morning meal. SIX-EIGHT MONTHS OLD: Morning: One and one-half cups of milk (powdered milk, beef broth, or soup may be substituted) mixed with one and one-half cups of a good dog meal to a porridge-like consistency. Noon: About one-half pound of chopped meat or canned dog food plus vitamin supplement. One-half tea-

spoon of cod liver oil and a sprinkling of bone meal or dicalcium phosphate may be added. Evening: One pound of chopped meat or canned dog food mixed with one cup of small-sized dog kibble moistened with soup, beef broth, or warm water.

Vitamin supplement and, if desired, cod liver oil should be continued. NINE-TEN MONTHS OLD: Morning: One and one-half cups of milk (powdered milk, beef broth, or soup may be substituted) mixed with one and one-half cups of small-size dog kibble. Evening: One pound of chopped meat or canned dog food mixed with one cup of small-size dog kibble, moist- ened with soup, beef broth, or warm water. Vita-

min supplement and, if desired, cod liver oil should be continued. ELEVEN-TWELVE MONTHS: Morning: Same as for nine-ten month group, but with in-

creased portions, if deemed necessary. Evening: Same as for nine-ten group but with increased

portions, if deemed necessary. Cod liver oil, if

still given, should be reduced to five drops per day.

ONE YEAR OR MORE:

Morning: Unless the dog is thin, the morning meal should be eliminated. Late afternoon One pound of chopped meat or canned dog food or Evening: (adjust amount to dog's condition and need) mixed with one cup (amount also adjusted to dog's need)

of kibble. Cod fiver oil can be eliminated from the

16 diet, or, if it makes you feel better, give five drops per day. Liquid or powder vitamin supplement

can still be given with beneficial effects.

This diet is not a rigidly prescribed mandate. Many modifications in quantity and kind, especially for the older animal, can be made. Beef heart, beef liver, and other meats can be substituted for ground beef. Fish and chicken, preferably boned to avoid the possible danger of having sharp splinters pierce the dog's digestive tract, can also be fed, and can be pur- chased at your petshop. Vegetables, though they do provide some vitamins and minerals, are not at all necessary. They may, if you wish, be added to the diet, but only to slightly increase the quantity of the portions rather than as a substitute for anything else. Vegetables have been found to be a common cause of gas in dogs. Among the vegetables considered most easily digested by dogs are cooked carrots and stringbeans. Corn and green peas will usually pass through the dog's system undigested. Cottage cheese may be substituted for milk, especially if milk is found to cause diarrhea. Eggs, particularly raw eggs, are not a necessity. Dogs cannot digest raw egg- whites. A raw egg-yolk, however, can be offered as a food supplement. A dog's diet should contain a large amount of fat, generally not in excess

Ch. Lylane Cheyenne Lancer, bred by Mrs. Elizabeth Tregoning, owned by

Gilbert and Dorothy E. Barnes. Judge William F. Fox is awarding a ribbon for the win that gave Lancer his championship. Photo by Alexander.

17 Ch. Ruffian Tigress of Har-Wyn, bred, owned, and handled by Mrs. W. D. (Peggy) Harper. Sire: Ch. Ruffian Headlight Hal; dam: Ch. Bonnie Lou of Ed-Mar. Photo by Laughead.

of 15% of the total diet, except in the case of hard-working dogs, which can utilize much more. Fat serves as a storage site for vitamins A, D, E, and K and also provides a high output of energy. Fat also slows the passage of food through the digestive tract, allowing a more complete digestion of protein. Do not allow more than half an hour for feeding. If the dog does not eat within this time, remove his food and do not feed again until the next regularly scheduled feeding. This avoids the health hazard of spoiled food and teaches the dog to eat when served.

Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. If your young puppy

thinks it is part water- and attempts to swim in its drinking supply,

or if it tries to simulate a water storage tank, it may be best to give water only at various times throughout the day.

IS 4. Training

The primary step in the training of any animal is actually the training of the trainer. In any operation, from sawing wood to playing the violin,

the results are always more satisfactory if the operator knows and employs the proper techniques. The same principle applies to the training of a dog. The trainer should be firm but gentle, understanding, and forgiving; he should never be harsh, impatient, or excitable. Most importantly, the trainer must be consistent. Consistency is the cornerstone of animal training. Pick any command-word you wish (in formal obedience training, certain command words are standard), but once it is chosen do not vary or change it. A dog cannot be expected to understand a command if the trainer him- self is unable to remember it. Consistency also demands that once a dog learns a command, never, never let him ignore it when it is given. Allowing a dog to ignore a given command destroys the absolutism of your authority and leads to uncertainty, confusion, and disobedience. Reward and punishment—or, as the psychologists say, "positive and nega- tive reinforcement"—must be used to let the dog know if he is doing what is expected of him. Reward takes the form of petting and warm praise.

Praising is best done by the repeated use of short phrases such as "good dog," "good boy," or "good Shep." Tidbits such as dog biscuits or dog candy may be used as supplementary rewards. These, however, should never be given for every correct performance nor on a regular schedule (as every third correct performance), for then the dog will come to expect and later demand these tidbits for his efforts, or he will not perform. It is best to reward tidbits on an irregular schedule so that the dog is always hopeful but never certain of receiving these additional incentives. Punishment does not mean whipping the dog into unconsciousness; a look of pronounced displeasure on the face of the trainer or a sternly-voiced "NO!" will often suffice. If a dog needs further "negative reinforcement," a rolled-up newspaper applied smartly to his rear quarters—never the head region! —will provide enough noise and discomfort, without pain, to admir- ably convey your feelings. Occasionally, a dog may need a more severe form of "negative reinforcement." (During paper-breaking, a dog should obviously not be hit with a rolled-up newspaper!) These aspects will be dis- cussed more fully later. Training, whether for housebreaking or obedience,

19 should be conducted by only one person. The more people attempting to train a dog, the more difficult and unsuccessful it is likely to be. A command-word should be short, preferably one syllable, and readily distinguishable from other command-words. Once the command-words are decided upon, they and only they should be used. However it may appear, dogs cannot really understand any human language: they respond to the tone of the speaker's voice, to specific sounds (words) uttered by the trainer, and to body movements. Hysterical commands, such as "stop barking," "don't go on the couch," "don't pull on the leash," and "don't do that" are the unmistakable signs of a poor training job. It is actually a credit to the intelligence of dogs that so many, by discerning the tone of the speaker's voice, are able to comply, after a fashion, with these commands. A good trainer makes the most efficient possible use of the tone of his voice and of specific vocal sounds (words) in the training of a dog. Arm and hand movements are also employed in the more advanced stages of training.

Rather than long, verbose sentences of admonishment, a one-word com-

mand should be used to voice your disapproval. This command is simply the word "No." "No" can be applied in any situation of misbehavior. It can be used as a gentle reprimand or as a curt and trenchant demand to cease and desist at once. The young puppy can readily be taught the meaning of "No." Even his

mother did not let him get away with everything. Do not, however, expect

instantaneous and unwavering obedience; the puppy, after all, is still a puppy.

It is not possible to overstress the importance of consistency: when you

say "No," mean it. Do not give the command several times and then allow

the dog to continue what it is doing, simply because it is too much effort to enforce your commands. Be prepared to back up your orders, or do not give them.

On the other hand, it is undesirable to be a martinet and overtrain your dog. Excessive scolding and restraint may result in the unpleasant sight of

a cringing, fearful dog every time you look at or reach for it. A dog, especially the young puppy, should be allowed certain liberties. Use the command "No" wisely and with discretion, and not every time the dog

turns his head—but when you give the command make sure it is always obeyed. WALKING ON LEASH One of the basic things a well-disciplined dog must know is proper con- duct while on a leash (as distinct from heeling). The dog should not pull, bolt, or hang back though he should, of course, be allowed a certain degree

20 of liberty when taken to his relief area, for dogs want to sniff and investi- gate a spot before making use of it. For your Staffordshire Terrier puppy, a rounded leather collar and the standard length leash, 3 feet long, are quite suitable. (People professionally associated with the world of dogs refer to a leash as a lead.) A harness may also be used in certain situations, as when the puppy is to be tied to some object for a length of time. The harness is used in this situation in the hope of reducing the already unlikely possibility of accidental hanging.

Generally, harnesses only make control of the dog more difficult.

A good collar size for your young puppy is one that can be gently tight- ened to the last hole. This size will allow for the puppy's continued growth.

The collar, however, should not be worn this tightly; it should be worn slightly loose, to prevent chafing and choking. For the adult dog, the collar should fit comfortably when tightened to the middle hole. If you wish to buy a collar without having your dog present, and still obtain the correct size, you should determine beforehand the circumference of the dog's neck by using a tape measure or a length of string.

Allow the puppy to smell and examine his new collar. Slip it loosely on

Ch. Rossmore Victoria, bred by Gladys C. Smith, owned by Gilbert and Dorothy

E. Barnes. Judge F. W. Bilger, Jr. is holding ribbons for the wins, including Best of Breed, that won a championship for this fine bitch. Photo by Joan Ludwig.

21 Whether you will allow your Staffordshire Terrier to lie on your chairs or sofa

is your own personal decision. Mr. Albert Williams, long-time breeder of Staffordshires, believes a dog belongs on the floor. Photo by Louise Van der Meid.

and off his neck several times, leaving it in place for progressively longer

periods. Finally, leave it on. Allow the puppy to sniff and become familiar

with his leash before you attach it to his collar. Once the leash is in place, allow the puppy to run about without any restraint until he realizes the

leash is nothing to fear. When walking, respond with a sharp but gentle tug each time the puppy pulls on the leash. If the puppy lingers behind, however, your tugging on the leash may only result in the puppy's sitting and actively resisting your efforts. In this event, try to coax him, with suitable words, into following the direction of the pull of the leash. If he persists, gently drag him along; when he starts to walk, praise him. Puppies usually learn their leash manners in a short time, but puppies are young animals, and allowances must be made for their playfulness. Give them a certain amount of liberty and do not demand absolute precision.

Obedience-training collars and leashes will be discussed later. HOUSETRAINING

Housebreaking, as distinguished from paper-training, is almost impossible in puppies of less than four months of age; they simply lack sufficient con-

22 : — trol of their bowel and bladder movements. If, however, you have the time, quick access to the outside (not a neighbor's lawn), and mild weather, you may try to impress upon your puppy the desired association of the out-of-doors with the daily eliminations. This means taking the puppy out- side when you awaken in the morning, after each feeding, after heavy play or exercise, and before retiring at night. Each of these excursions should last at least fifteen minutes to give the puppy ample time. This practice, therefore, can be rather time-consuming. For your convenience, for the health of the puppy in cold weather, and for the protection of the household rugs, paper-training as the initial step in housebreaking is highly recommended. A grown dog that is both paper- broken and housebroken is a great advantage to apartment-house dwellers, live-alone workers, and travelers. Paper-training, however, has two aspects that many be considered objectionable: (1) the almost unending presence of urine-soaked paper in the house, (2) "defiling" the "sacredness" of the home, which tends to make later attempts at housebreaking more difficult. Living with a dog, as living with other people, requires the acceptance of certain household inconvenience. If a chewed slipper or a spot on the rug works you into a fury, or if you do not care enough to devote sufficient time to a dog, you should not own one.

PAPER-TRAINING

Paper-training can be begun when the puppy is eight weeks old, but do not expect instantaneous perfection. The basic procedure is as follows

It is best to establish and keep a specific part of the house as the puppy's "territory." The territory should have linoleum rather than a rug or bare wood flooring. It should not be located in the main stream of family traffic, yet it should not be so isolated as to remove the dog from all human contact. If space allows, the kitchen or breakfast nook—or a part thereof is usually an ideal site. Confinement to this area can be achieved either by tieing the puppy with his leash or a cord to some sturdy object or, prefer- ably, by partitioning off the territory with a gate or some obstacle across the entrance. Cover the entire floor of the territory with at least two layers of news- paper. After a day or so, the puppy will localize his attentions to one part of the territory. To speed up and encourage the use of a particular loca- tion, it is a good idea to leave a little of the used paper at that location.

Once a definite spot is established, reduce the area covered by the news- papers by eliminating those furthest from the point of use. You are now leaving room for error, and errors will occur. If you are with the puppy either in another room or near his territory, and you notice him circling, suddenly begin to sniff the floor, or squatting,

23 quickly but gently place him on the newspaper. Whenever the puppy uses the paper, whether voluntarily or after being placed there by you, bestow lavish praise and petting upon him. If you do not catch him in time, scold him and immediately place him on the paper. Do not beat him or, under any condition, rub his nose in it. Scoldings must be given only during or immediately after the mistake, for after any lapse of time at all the scoldings will not be associated with the misdeed, and only confusion and fear will result. Gradually, as the puppy's training progresses, reduce the newspaper- covered area to the minimum size necessary for adequate service. You may also allow the puppy greater freedom in the house. Off-paper mistakes will occur, and you must be prepared to accept these as inevitable. Do not leave the puppy alone, even temporarily, in a room without newspaper on the floor, for unavoidable accidents may occur and set back the whole training process.

When the puppy is four months old, he has usually developed sufficient muscular control to begin housebreaking. At this point, you must decide whether you want a completely housebroken dog or a combination paper- and housebroken animal. If the former is decided upon, all newspaper must be permanently removed during the day. Leaving newspapers down during the day, in case of an emergency, may be a convenience to you, but it will simply prolong, hinder, and possibly cancel all your housebreaking efforts.

Until the puppy develops more control, however, or if you wish a com- bination-trained dog, newspapers can be left on the floor during the night. HOUSEBREAKING Housebreaking proper requires a completely new training process, so the following instructions can be used with either paperbroken dogs or dogs with no previous training whatever.

The first step in housebreaking is to establish a regular outing schedule. For the young puppy, this should be in the early morning, at night before he goes to sleep, and after each feeding. It is also advisable to walk a puppy after heavy play or exercise and after awakening from a nap. This generally boils down to the fact that you should walk your young puppy about every three hours. Adult dogs should be walked no less than three times a day, and even this is an unhappy and uncomfortable restriction. Twice a day should be the absolute minimum.

The second step is to take advantage of the average dog's dislike of soil- ing the immediate area of his living quarters or anywhere he is closely confined. When you cannot keep a constant watch on the puppy while he is in the house, tie or barricade him within a small area, such as near his bed or the vicinity of the bathroom sink. This will induce the puppy to

24 make an effort at self-restraint, which will both strengthen and improve his control and allow you to adhere more closely to a regular outing schedule. If he does err while in the house, scold him, but only during or immedi- ately following the mistake, not sometime after. For an effective scolding, the puppy should be kept at or brought back to the spot he has soiled and restrained there by holding his collar or the scruff of his neck. The scolding should be done in an angry voice, using such expressions as, "No! You bad dog! No!" As long as the puppy is restrained in place, you may swat him on his rear quarters with your bare hand. Moderate your blows so as to give only a degree of pain or smarting; never allow them to become forceful enough to bruise or injure the puppy. Rolled-up newspaper may also be effective, but its use in paper-training may lead to confusion in the dog's mind as to the desirability of his close association with newspapers. Punch- ing or kicking the dog or pushing his nose into the mess is outright cruelty and does not hasten or improve his training; indeed, it may result in unwanted complications. Never attempt to strike at the dog, either with a newspaper or your hand, while he is free and can dodge and run away. Once the dog learns he can run away from punishment, he will tend to

Your child is in good hands when your courageous Staffordshire Terrier is at her side. Photo by Louise Van der Meid.

25 become hand-shy and make training all the more difficult. If it is at all possible, the dog should be taken outside after he has been scolded for soiling in the house.

Following a routine, which is basically repeating the same thing over and over again, enables the puppy to learn more quickly. Therefore, along with a regular feeding and walking schedule, always use the same door when leaving the house, and always walk along the same route. When the puppy utilizes the street—not the sidewalk, please! —praise and pet him. Show him clearly how pleased you are. Gradually, the number of outings may be reduced and the puppy given greater freedom in the house. OBEDIENCE TRAINING

All that a dog really needs in discipline training is obedience to the commands of "No," "Come," "Sit," and "Stay." If your dog obeys even only these four commands in the proper manner, he will be head and shoulders above the average dog. With the addition of the commands "Down" and "Heel," you will be able to control your dog in almost any circumstance, increase your pride of ownership, and greatly enhance the master-dog relationship. More advanced training, however, can add mark- edly to this situation.

No training attempts whatever should be made with puppies less than three months of age. Indeed, few puppies are ready for training before they reach six months. It is best, therefore, to wait until the puppy is at least this old before beginning regular obedience training. Paperbreaking and housebreaking, obedience to the command "No," and incidental asso- ciation with the command "Come" are notable exceptions to this rule. Many training classes will not accept puppies of less than eight months in age, and a number of authorities consider nine months as the minimum age. Premature attempts at training a puppy can result in a tense, nervous, excitable dog. Recent scientific studies, however, have indicated that, under certain conditions, "play-training" not only can, but should be begun at seven weeks of age. From seven to twelve weeks of age, the trainer should establish a bond between himself and the puppy. During this interval, an understanding of, but not a disciplined obedience to, the commands "No," "Sit," "Stay," and "Come" can be learned. Regular discipline training can then be taught by sixteen weeks of age. These experimental studies and techniques are most interesting and may prove of great value, but their proof should be left to the professional dog trainer. Older dogs, despite ideas to the contrary, also can be trained.

Training sessions should last about fifteen minutes each, or even less in the beginning, and not more than twenty minutes. One or two training periods per day, given at regularly scheduled times, several hours apart,

26 Ch. Archer's Debutante, bred by Dick Archer, owned by Dorothy Archer. Judge Borgman awarding Best of Breed ribbon at Pasadena Kennel Club show. Handler: Mr. McKenzie. Photo by Ludwig.

are quite adequate. Training should be conducted away from any outside distraction that would interfere with gaining and keeping the dog's atten- tion. The dog must also be made to understand that training sessions are serious occasions and not a time for play; the carrying out of a command

is not a game to be indulged in only when the puppy is in the mood. When giving commands, to avoid later confusion in obedience trials

where other trainers are present, it is best to preface all commands (except "Stay") with the dog's name, as "Dutch, Heel!"

It might be well to repeat here the earlier warning against overtraining: excessive strictness and too many scoldings may produce a cringing dog instead of a trusting companion. Training sessions should not be held immediately after the dog has eaten or has drunk a quantity of water. At least half an hour after drinking and one and one-half to two hours after eating should be allowed. TRAINING GEAR

In training, a metal slip chain or, as it is more honestly known, a choke

collar, is best. A choke collar permits quick application and immediate

release of pressure. This is a decided aid in restraining a dog and in tele-

27 graphing your commands. Also available is a spike collar with inward- projecting prongs, but its use is not recommended.

Do not get too narrow a chain, for it may cut into the dog's skin. The proper length slip chain is one having about 3 or 4 inches of excess length when the collar is cinched snugly around the dog's neck. To form the slip- chain collar from the open chain, merely pass a loop of the chain through one of the end rings (this is actually done by dropping the links of the chain through one ring), and then slip this loop over the dog's head. You may have read or heard about the correct way of placing a choke collar on a dog so that it will slacken immediately when pressure is released.

Correct placement of the choke collar is important for both the training and the well-being of the dog. There is a correct way to place the choke collar, but it is important to realize that this placement remains correct only as long as the dog remains on one side of you. In formal obedience training, the dog is kept on the trainer's left, and this custom is generally followed by most dog owners. The following description of how to correcdy place the choke collar will therefore pertain to the dog kept at your left side, and it will be correct only as long as the dog stays on your left side:

Ch. Rip Rock Silver Cavalier. A gray brindle and white dog bred by Kathleen Marusich, owned by Clifford Marusich. Photo by Brown.

28 With the dog at your left side, place the slip chain over his head so the loose, dangling ring, to which you fasten the leash, is on the dog's right side. If placed correctly, a pull on the leash, while both end-rings are below the dog's neck, will cause the formation of a "V" in the collar with the remaining end-ring in the crook of this bend. If the collar has been placed wrongly, a pull on the leash will not result in this "V"-formation. In the usual walking position, when the dog pulls on the leash, the slip collar will slide around so that both end-rings will be above his neck rather than below it. In this reversed position, with the dog still at your left side, the "V"- bend should no longer be formed. If the "V"-bend is present, the collar has been placed incorrectly. A training leash (or lead) should be approximately 6 feet long to provide adequate maneuverability for the trainer. It should be made of flat leather or webbing. A rounded-leather leash is difficult to hold, and a chain lead may cut into the trainer's hand. A thin clothesline or similar rope, about 50 feet long, will also be required.

If the dog is to be taught in the usual left-of-trainer position, hold the handle of the leash, and any excess length of leash in the form of a loop, in the right hand. The left hand is used to grasp the straight part of the leash a short distance from the dog. The left hand is thus used to control or pet the dog, and the right hand to adjust the length of leash needed.

The leash should be held slack at all times, except when correcting the dog. Obedience-training classes and most instruction books begin with "heel- ing" as the first phase of training. This is because the subsequent training program is in relation to heeling and the heeling position. If, however, you are not concerned with formal obedience training, or if you do not par- ticularly care if the dog walks at your left side with his head close to your left knee or not (so long as it acts properly while walking on a leash), and you do not wish to take on the additional task of training the dog to heel, you may skip the heeling training entirely. SIT

To teach the dog to sit on command, give the command "Sit" as you pull steadily upward on the leash with one hand and press downward on the dog's hindquarters with your other. If the dog resists, a sharp slap on the hindquarters, while keeping the leash high and taut, will provide an additional incentive. When the dog sits, regardless of whether it was of his own accord or due to your physical urgings, praise and pet him, and occa- sionally give him a tidbit. After a number of lessons, the dog should sit quickly on command. The distance between you and the dog should gradu- ally be increased in order to train the dog to sit on command when he is some distance from you. Hand signals can be given simultaneously with the vocal commands, and then the vocal commands can be gradually lessened

29 Ch. Knight Crusader, bred and owned by Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Stinson. Sire: Ch. Rossmore's Naughty Knight CDX; dam: Ch. Gallant Ruff's Susie Q. Crusader is the all-time top show Staffordshire Terrier. Photo by Young and Patterson.

until the dog is obeying the hand signal alone. In formal obedience training, the hand-signal for "Sit" is to extend the arm, palm up, and then quickly bend the fingers upward. STAY

The command "Stay" is a very important command, one that seems most impressive to the average person. Training is begun by holding the leash in the prescribed manner, with the dog at your left side.

Have the dog sit on command. Step forward slowly, starting with your right foot (if you are not going to enter the dog in formal obedience training, you may use either foot—see "Heeling"), turn and face the dog. Give him the command, "Stay!" (in formal obedience training, it is "sit-and-stay") and, at the same time, reinforce it with the appropriate hand signal, arm extended and the turned-back palm placed in front of the dog's muzzle, as if you were going to push his nose in. You may at first have to keep the dog in place by holding him with your left hand when you walk away from him, or by rapping him on the muzzle with one or two fingers. If the dog begins to move as you stand facing him, snap the leash up-

30 ward and give the commands, "Sit, Stay!" Gradually, you may step back farther and farther from the dog until the full length of the leash is reached. At this stage, you can begin a slow circling of the dog after he has been told to sit and stay. Slow movement is important, for dogs tend to lunge after something moving rapidly, and you want to discourage this. The dog should not be allowed to turn his body around to follow your movements. To prevent this, you may at first have to hold his head in a forward position with your hand as you walk around him. Later you can leave the leash on the ground when you walk from him or around him. Always be prepared to correct the dog when he breaks the command. If he moves off, bring him back to the exact place he has left, and repeat the command. Gradually, move farther and farther from him, and make him stay in place for longer and longer periods. Finally, you can walk out of sight, preferably to a location where you can still watch him.

If he starts to move, repeat the command to stay. Have the dog sit and stay by himself for one or more minutes, and later for five to ten minutes. Always reward the dog when he obeys. Show him that you are aware and appreciate his efforts and achievements. COME A young puppy can be taught to come when called by rewarding him with praise, petting, and an occasional tidbit when he responds to the call.

If he is punished when he does not come or when he obeys very slowly, he will begin to associate this command as preceding a scolding and will retreat rather than approach when this command is given. This informal, voluntary compliance, however, is not sufficient. It must be impressed upon the puppy, when he is old enough, and on the older dog as well, that obedience to the command "Come!" is not dependent solely upon reward, but is, rather, mandatory.

To convey this idea, make the dog sit and stay, and then back slowly away the full length of the leash. At the command "Come," yank the leash sharply but gently toward you. If the dog refuses to budge, yank the leash again and repeat the command. Continue doing this until the dog is in front of you. At this point, give the command to sit, and then reward him with praise, petting, and an occasional tidbit. Once the dog begins to grasp the meaning of "Come," you can make use of the fifty-foot line. With the line secured to the dog, you can vary the training distance by letting the dog wander away or by having him sit and stay while you back away. At these distances, you repeat the training procedure outlined above. When the dog obeys consistently from a fifty-foot distance, you may dispense with the line and continue training without any leash whatever. Train without the line only in a safe place where a sudden unexpected dash by the dog will not carry him under the wheels of a speeding car.

31 A word of caution: Never give the dog the command to "Come" to punish him for anything he has done. He should never be punished when he obeys this command, regardless of what else he has done, or you will inhibit his obedience to this command. If you have to punish him for some- thing, go to him! HEELING

"Heeling" is actually a two-phase command: (1) to get the dog seated in the proper position at your left side when you are standing still, and (2) to keep him at your left side while you are walking.

It is best to begin with the "walking" phase of heeling. Keep the dog at your left side, with the leash held in the prescribed manner. You may begin walking with either foot; in formal obedience training, however, the trainer begins with his left foot. Starting off with the right foot is used only when the dog has been told to stay in place. Walk at a rather rapid pace; keep the leash slack, but yank it to correct the dog. Try to keep the dog's head near your left knee. Each time the dog pulls too far ahead or lags too far behind, tug on the leash and give the command "Heel!" or "Shep, Heel!" To make the meaning of the command more clear to the dog and to keep his attention, vary your speed and direction of walking. Try reversing your course or turning to one side suddenly, jerking the leash sharply as you do; walk in a circle, both to the left and right; or walk in a figure 8. If the dog gets in your way on these turns, nudge him with your knee. Keep repeating the command to heel. Do not allow the dog to play.

After the dog has gotten the idea of heeling at your side as you walk, command him to sit every time you come to a halt; compliance with this command results in the "sitting" heel. After a while, the dog will learn to sit whenever you stop walking. The next step is to get the dog to come to the "sitting" heel position from a point other than at your side. This is best done by facing the seated dog while holding the leash in the prescribed manner. Give the command "heel," and then walk briskly toward the dog and pass him on your left side. The pull of the leash will cause the dog to turn and follow you. As soon as the dog has swung into position, halt and give the command to sit. Repeat this training until the dog follows you automatically without the guiding pull of the leash, on the command of "Heel." You may then vary the training by walking several steps backwards as you give the command, pulling the dog after you, then moving forward until the dog has turned and is at your side in the heel position. Gradually take fewer steps backward and let sharp tugs of the leash, accompanied by the command "Heel," replace the pulling effect of your stepping backward. In time, both the "walking" and "sitting" heel will be obeyed without the necessity of a leash.

32 )OWN Training the dog to drop to his stomach on command can be done in everal ways; all begin with the dog in a sitting position: (1) Situate your- elf alongside the dog. At the command "Down," place your arm behind he dog's front legs and push them forward while you simultaneously push [own with your other hand on the dog's back, between the shoulder blades. 2) Place yourself in front of the seated dog, and on the command "Down," ;rasp one front leg in each hand and pull the legs forward. (3) Stand acing the dog, holding the leash, in a loop if it is necessary to shorten it, in our left hand. On the command "Down," place your right foot on the

;ash and gently force it to the ground. This will bring the dog into the orrect "down" position. Repeat any of these procedures until the dog obeys the command with- ut any physical urging.

To get the dog to sit from the "down" position, give the command Sit!" and tug sharply, but gently, upward with the leash.

'enezuela Ch. Crusader's Taffy, bred by Mr. and Mrs. D. N. Stinson, owned y Mr. and Mrs. L. T. Giulini. This buff and white South American champion

; indicative of the increasing widespread popularity of the Staffordshire Terrier. Photo by M. Saturi.

33 5. Grooming

As an owner of a Staffordshire Terrier, you are most fortunate in not being involved with a dog that needs plucking, stripping, or clipping. If you wish to bother at all, your efforts may be directed to trimming any odd hairs that stick out from the rest of the dog's coat. A 's brush, or hound's glove, a mitten-like brush, however, can be used to good advantage to produce a lustrous sheen in the Staffordshire Terrier's coat.

On the day of a show, if you are showing your dog, rub a few drops of a brilliantine-type preparation between your palms, and apply to the dog's coat to remove dullness. Many handlers simply wipe down the dog's coat with a slightly dampened towel just before entering the show ring. BATHING The frequency of bathing depends upon the individual dog and specific circumstances: some dogs have quite oily, or sebaceous, skins and commonly leave dark smudges wherever they lie down, others may become soiled with grease or filth, and still others will be infested with fleas, lice, or ticks. A whitish or light-colored dog will show dirt more readily than a brindle or a dark-colored dog.

Bathing, however, does remove natural oils from the skin, and excessive bathing can turn a lustrous glossy coat into a dull, dry, and lifeless one. Therefore, do not bathe a dog frequently unless the special circumstances listed above pertain to your dog. Ordinarily, a Staffordshire Terrier can go for several months without a bath. Dogs may also be bathed in cold weather, contrary- to a popular line of thought, as long as the dog is kept in a warm, draft-free place until thoroughly dried.

Puppies may also be bathed, but try to avoid bathing a puppy before it is five months old; if a puppy requires a bath, however, give him one. When bathing the dog, begin by wetting him thoroughly with warm water, then apply soap or shampoo to the head region and gradually, with

a massaging motion, work down toward the rear of the body. This is im- portant, for if you begin at the middle or rear of the dog's body, fleas and other vermin will run forward and hide in the ears and other head openings. Work carefully so as not to get soap in the dog's eyes. Some authorities

recommend placing a drop of castor oil or mineral oil into each eye before

the soaping, to form a protective film against possible irritation. Placing a

34 Zh. Gallant Kimbo, bred and owned by Mr. Edwin C. Ringold. Sire: Ch. Knight Crusaders; dam: Ch. Gallant Storm. Photo by Alexander.

vad of absorbent cotton in each of the dog's ears has also been recom- nended. Always use a shampoo manufactured specifically for dogs. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the soap or shampoo container. >ome manufacturers recommend keeping the suds on the dog for at least ive minutes to maximize the insecticidal effect.

Rinse the dog thoroughly with warm water, for any soap left on the skin nay cause irritation. It is best to dry the dog with towels rather than let lim dry in the air, and though it is less effort to let the dog shake himself ieveral times before toweling, it may be advisable to place a towel on the log prior to any shaking to absorb excess water and avoid having yourself plattered and drenched. To induce the dog to shake, blow gently in one of lis ears. Do not overdo this, however, as it appears to greatly annoy the log. EARS

The ears can be cleaned in any of several ways. If the ear is in very bad condition, with hard accumulations of wax and dirt, it is best to flush the ear by placing several drops of peroxide, propylene glycol, or a mixture of ether and alcohol in the ear to dissolve the waxy secretions. The ear can

35 then be cleaned with a moistened cotton swab (Q-tips—cardboard sticks

preferred). If the ear is not very dirty, the cotton swab can be dampened with any of the following: peroxide, propylene glycol, an ether and

alcohol mixture, rubbing alcohol, mineral oil, olive oil, or baby oil, all of

which act to soften and loosen the wax. It is wise not to probe the swab any deeper than you can see. Be sure to hold the dog's head steady, for any sudden movement by the dog may ram the swab inward and injure him. CLAWS If a dog does not get enough exercise over hard ground, his claws may grow uncomfortably long (technically, dogs have claws, not nails. Nails, as typified by the human fingernail, are flat and of a different construction microscopically). If this occurs, the claws must be clipped. Specially de-

signed clippers, available at your petshop, are the most satisfactory for this

job, for ordinary scissors tend to slip. Be careful not to cut too far back, or you may cut into a blood vessel (the "quick") at the rear of the claw. The blood vessel appears as a fine line within the rear of the claw. If the claws are too dark to readily detect the presence of the blood vessel, a flashlight held beneath the claws may provide the necessary assistance. If you are unsure, merely clip off the slightly curled tip at the end of each claw. After clipping, the claws should be filed (suitable files can be pur- chased at your petshop) in a downward rounding stroke. Do not continue filing when you reach the soft, pulpy part of the claw, for this is the begin- ning of the blood vessel area. If you have cut too far back and caused bleeding, apply a styptic pencil to the cut and, if you wish, cover the wound with a temporary bandage. Do not file the claw for at least twenty-four hours. TEETH The dog's teeth should be cleaned each week, using a soft cloth or tooth- brush in a mixture of table salt and water. Feeding hard dog biscuits or supplying an occasional artificial bone may help to wear away deposits of tartar on the teeth. For really heavy accumulations of tartar, however, it is best to have a veterinarian scrape the teeth.

36 6. Mating SPAYING

The owner of a female is faced with one of three choices : spaying, breed-

ing, or not breeding. Spaying, as mentioned earlier in this book, is a very common operation consisting of the removal of the female's ovaries and

uterus. It is not necessary to remove the uterus to insure sterility, but it is almost invariably done to avoid the possibility of future infection or other complications. Spaying should generally be performed from four to seven weeks after (not during) the female's first heat to before her first birthday.

This interval is considered best because it allows the female to reach sexual maturity and develop all the adult characteristics, and yet it is still early enough to avoid obesity and other possible complications of spaying. Spayed females do not have the semi-annual heat period and vaginal discharge, nor are they annoyed by persistent male dogs. Spayed females remain healthy, active . The female does not know what has been removed or what abilities she now lacks; there should be, therefore, no undue concern as to her psychological state. Spayed females also have no accidental mating re- sulting in unwanted mongrels that usually end their days in the death chamber of the local pound. Spayed females, however, are not eligible for entry in A.K.C. dog shows. ESTRUS

Unaltered females usually reach sexual maturity (the first heat cycle) at eight or nine months of age, but sexual maturity may occur as early as six months or as late as twelve to thirteen months of age. The average heat cycle or estrous period lasts twenty to twenty-one days and occurs approxi- mately every six months. For about five days immediately preceding the heat period, the female generally displays restlessness and an increased appetite. The vulva, or external genitals, begin to swell. The female urinates more frequently than usual. The first appearance of vaginal bleeding marks the beginning of the estrous cycle. Estrous bleeding in dogs is not the same as menstruation in primates, including humans. Menstrual bleeding is pro- duced by the breakdown and rupture of the uterine lining, whereas bleeding in bitches is the result of diapedesis, or the passing of blood cells through the unbroken walls of uterine blood vessels. Different hormones are also involved in the two conditions. The discharge, which is bright red at the onset and gradually becomes pale pink to straw in color, increases in quan-

37 Ch. Knight Bomber, bred by Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Stinson, owned by Mr. and Mrs. L. C. Register. Sire: Ch. Rossmores Naughty Knight CDX; dam: Ch.

Gallant Ruff's Susie Q. Bomber is the 2nd all-time top show Staffordshire Terrier. Photo by Homer Tepe.

38 tity for several days and then slowly subsides and finally ceases. The vaginal

discharge is subject to much variation: in some bitches it is quite heavy,

in others it may never appear, or be so slight as to go unnoticed, espe-

cially if the female constantly cleans herself. The swelling and hardening of the vulva increases during this phase of the cycle.

About eight or nine days after the first appearance of the discharge, the female becomes very playful with other dogs, but will not allow mating to take place. Anywhere from the tenth or eleventh day, when the discharge has virtually ended and the vulva has softened, to the seventeenth or eight- eenth day, the female will accept males, and mate. Many biologists apply the term "heat" only to this receptive phase, rather than to the whole mating cycle as is commonly done by dog fanciers. The ova (egg cells) from the female's ovaries are discharged into the oviduct toward the close of the acceptance phase, usually from the sixteenth to eighteenth day. From the eighteenth day until the end of the cycle, the female is still attractive to males, but she will repulse their advances. The entire estrus, however, may

be quite variable : in some females vaginal bleeding ends and mating begins on the fourth day; in others, the discharge may continue throughout the entire cycle and the female will not accept males until the seventeenth day

or even later. MATING The male dog's sperm can live up to four days within the body of the female. A successful breeding, therefore, can result from a mating as much as four days before the female ovulates. For greater probability of success, however, it is best to mate as close to the female's ovulation time as possible. Many breeders, to increase the chances for conception, have the female mated a second time by the same stud on the following day or the day after.

It is probably safest for the average pet owner not to breed his female until her second heat, or until she is about fifteen months old, and not to breed her more than one a year (every other estrus). Breeding should be terminated when the female reaches seven years of age. Professional breeders sometimes breed earlier, more frequently, and later than is recom- mended here, but many professional breeders generally adhere to these recommendations.

It is a good idea to have the female checked for worms and, if necessary, wormed before breeding or within three weeks after breeding. Revaccination

(booster) for distemper and hepatitis is strongly recommended.

The male dog's penis has a bulbous enlargement at its base, and, in addition, like that of a number of other mammals, contains a bone. When mating occurs, pressure on the penis causes a reflex action that fills the bulb with blood, swelling it to about five times its normal size within the female.

39 This locks, or ties, the two animals together. After ejaculation, the animals usually remain tied for fifteen to thirty minutes, but they may separate very quickly or remain together for two hours or more. When the dogs are thus tied, you should not allow the female to sit or turn and bite at the male, for he may be injured. Keep the female up, if necessary, by hand support, and muzzle her if she shows a tendency to bite. In the tied position, the male will often move around so that both dogs are tail to tail; in this posi- tion, they will pull apart as soon as the bulb reduces in size. You may bring the male to this reverse position by lifting his forelegs off the female and dropping them to one side of her, then lifting the male's hind leg off the opposite side and bringing it across the female's back.

CONTRACTS AND SHIPPING

In breeding arrangements, the general procedure is to bring the female to the male, or stud. If the stud is located some distance away, this may mean

shipping your female. If so, the female should be shipped before the seventh day of her estrous cycle to allow her to become accustomed to her new surroundings and be with the stud at the most expeditious time.

For relatively short journeys, railway express (REA) or air cargo is quite satisfactory. For long distances, time should be considered and the female should be shipped by air express (as freight on passenger planes) or even

by direct flight if the owner of the stud is able and willing to meet the plane. Some breeders recommend not shipping by air cargo on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday, for a flight may be cancelled and the dog stranded over the weekend. The dog's crate should be sturdy and large enough to prevent cramping. A water dish should be securely affixed to the inside. If

the trip will take a day or less, the inclusion of food is not necessary; for longer intervals, sealed fouds should be attached to or placed inside the crate. REA Express personnel will feed and care for your dog on the trip. Any pertinent instructions regarding the handling of the dog, including your name, address, and telephone number so you can be reached in cases of unforeseen delay or other events, should be indelibly inscribed on or perma- nently attached to the crate. If you are shipping interstate, you should apprise yourself of the health certificate requirements by consulting the shipping agency, the AAA, or your health department.

Either as the owner of the female or the stud, the fees and any supple- mentary agreement—such as a reservice of the female, at no charge, at her next heat, in case the mating proves fruitless—should be in writing. Stud fees are usually the going price of a puppy, and many owners of stud dogs

may request the pick of the litter instead of cash payment. Stud fees may also be much higher.

40 STUD If you are the owner of a male dog, and wish to employ him as a stud, you can advertise his availability in newspapers, dog magazines, and even the local petshop. It is unlikely, however, that your stud will be in much demand unless he is a champion. Male dogs can be used as studs any time after reaching puberty, but many breeders do not utilize a male until he is between twelve and eighteen months of age.

BREEDING TERMS It might be well to know the difference between inbreeding, outcrossing, linebreeding, and similar terms. Basically, there are only inbreeding and

outbreeding. Inbreeding, however, according to its intensity, is usually

divided into inbreeding proper and linebreeding. Inbreeding proper is con- sidered to be the mating of very closely related individuals, generally within

the immediate family, but this is sometimes extended to include first cousins

and grandparents. Linebreeding is the mating of more distantly related

animals, that is, animals not immediately related to each other but having a common ancestor, such as the same grandsire or great grandsire. Out-

breeding is divided into outcrossing, which is the mating of dogs from dif-

ferent families within the same breed; crossbreeding, which is the mating

of purebred dogs from different breeds; and backcrossing, which is the

mating of a crossbred animal back to one of its purebred parents or to another animal of the same strain or breed (so as to have the same genetic composition) as the purebred parent.

From even the most basic study of genetics, it should be realized that the

theory of telegony, which states that the sire of one litter can influence

future litters sired by other studs, is simply not true. It is possible, however,

if several males mate with a female, that the various puppies in the litter may have different sires (but not two sires for any one puppy). It should also be realized that blood does not really enter into the transmission of inheritance, although people commonly speak of "bloodlines," "pure-

blooded," etc.

41 —

7. Reproduction PREGNANCY Pregnancy, or gestation, lasts from fifty-eight to sixty-five days, with an average of sixty-two or sixty-three days. During this period the bitch requires special care. She should be exercised regularly, but moderately especially toward the end of her pregnancy. Her diet, which supplies her unborn puppies as well as herself, should be rich in proteins, fat, carbo- hydrates, minerals (especially calcium, phosporus, and iron), and vitamins. Feed generously, usually as much as she will eat without getting fat; three meals a day, two of meat and one^of milk—plus vitamin supplement and egg yolk—are recommended. Preparatory procedures during the last few days of the bitch's pregnancy include cleansing her teats with soap and water, reducing her food intake, and being careful to prevent her from becoming constipated. If you wish, as mentioned in the discussion on distemper, you may take a blood sample from the bitch to determine the period of her puppies' immunity. THE WHELPING BOX A whelping box should be in ready at least one week prior to the pre- dicted whelping date. The whelping box should be roomy enough to hold the bitch and her expected puppies comfortably. As a minimum, it should be about six inches longer than the bitch. The sides should be high enough to keep the puppies in, but still low enough to allow the bitch easy entrance

and exit. For the Staffordshire Terrier, it is probably best to build three sides at least twelve inches high, and the fourth, or entrance, side about six to eight inches high, with provisions for adding additional height when the puppies grow older and larger. Some breeders use whelping boxes with hinged tops, but these are not necessary. The box must remain open during

the actual whelping to allow you unobstructed observation. It is a good

idea to place a guard rail around the inside of the box to prevent the

female from pressing a puppy against the wall and killing it. The guard

rails, which should be placed about four inches above the floor of the box, can be made of smooth wooden slats two to three inches wide by one-half to one inch thick affixed to the sides with small angle irons, or of sturdy wooden dowel rods, about three-quarter-inch in diameter, set between facing walls two to three inches out from the walls they are guarding. The bottom of the box should be covered with several layers of newspaper, rather than

42 Ch. Sharevalpad Most Happy Fella, owned by Mr. and Mrs. Albert Williams. Photo by Louise Van der Meid.

cloth which may fold over and suffocate a puppy. Newspaper not only facilitates keeping the box clean—even though the female usually eats the elimination of the young puppies—but it can also be torn to shreds at the bitch's discretion for amusement or for a nest. Newborn puppies should not be placed on any rough surface, such as concrete, for they will rub the umbilical cord raw and bloody. The whelping box should be placed in a

quiet, rather dimly-lighted location, where it will be free of drafts and dampness. Introduce the bitch to the whelping box and induce her to spend

some time in the box and, if possible, to sleep in it. This will greatly increase the likelihood of the female's using the whelping box voluntarily when the time comes. WHELPING The earliest signs of approaching birth are restlessness and an attempt

to build a nest; nest building is indicated by scratching and digging on the sofa or bed, or by scraping objects together into a pile on the bottom of a closet. The female will often refuse food during this time, and a thick, stringy discharge from the vulva may be noted. Panting, which usually begins just prior to actual delivery, may appear as much as several days before the birth of the puppies. The female's body temperature usually drops below normal about twelve hours before whelping, but this may also occur as much as forty-eight hours prior to the actual delivery. If the

bitch's temperature is normal, delivery is still some time off ; if it is ninety-

nine or 100 degrees, it may drop further or it may rise again, and repeat

43 this several times ; if the temperature is ninety-eight degrees or less, whelping

is imminent. POSTPARTUM FEEDING OF BITCH Feed the female lightly during the first twenty-four hours after delivery: warm milk or cooked cereal is satisfactory. The female may have to be coaxed into eating. If she refuses food for thirty-six hours or longer, and her temperature is above normal, call the veterinarian; infection from a retained placenta or puppy may be present. The nursing female will need a large intake of food containing vitamins, calcium, phosphorus, iron, and other supplements. The female's supply of milk—recorded as high as a gallon a day in some fifty-pound bitches—is a great drain on her body's resources. Two meat meals and one milk meal per day is a good feeding schedule. Be sure that there is always water available for drinking.

The female will probably not want to leave her puppies for the first two or three days; it may take some coaxing and coercion to get her outside for ten or fifteen minutes on each of these days. POSTPARTUM OCCURRENCES

For a few days after whelping, especially if she has consumed the pla- centas, the bitch will usually have frequent, large, rather loose stools of a blackish color. For ten to twenty-one days after whelping, the bitch will

show a blackish, bloody discharge from the vulva. This is the remnant of

uterine bleeding and is a normal occurrence.

It is perfectly natural for the bitch to clean up the puppies' eliminations

for the first two or three weeks. After this period, or if the bitch does not take on this task, more attention must be paid to sanitation and cleanliness. ECLAMPSIA From the time of whelping to five or six weeks after, nursing females may

suddenly display a disease known as "nursing fits," or eclampsia. This is due to a shortage of calcium in the bloodstream, which affects the para- thyroid glands. Symptoms are stretching and stiffening of the muscles,

muscle tremors, and high temperature. The disease may be fatal. Treatment

is the injection of calcium gluconate into one of the bitch's veins; recovery occurs in about fifteen minutes. The recuperating female should be kept warm and quiet, and not allowed to nurse for some time. A high calcium diet (plus vitamin D to facilitate absorption of the calcium) during preg-

nancy and nursing is one means of avoiding eclampsia. A high calcium diet

is important, for even if eclampsia does not appear, the drain of calcium from the female's body will leave her bones weak and brittle unless her

diet can make up the loss. It is also wise to check the female's temperature daily for one week after delivery; a temperature higher than 102° F. should be reported to your veterinarian.

44 PUPPY FORMULA

If the female dies, an emergency milk formula is needed for the puppies. Dried milks made especially for puppies may be used, human infant formula is sometimes employed, or formulas may be made at home. One such formula is very similar to the formula given earlier in the book: it is twenty-two ounces of evaporated milk, eleven ounces of water, and a table- spoon of corn (Karo) syrup; another is simply to add four egg yolks and a tablespoon of corn (Karo) syrup to a quart of whole cow's milk. The formulas should be heated and fed at 100 degrees Fahrenheit. It will prob- ably be necessary to stroke each puppy's belly and genitals with a piece of absorbent cotton (preferably slightly moistened with warm water) to stimu- late elimination, as the mother would have done with her tongue. Orphaned puppies should be fed five or six times a day. PUPPY FEEDING AND WEANING The puppies' eyes will open about the tenth day. If their sharp claws

scratch the bitch's breasts, it would be best to clip the claws when the

Ch. Rip Rock Happy Bold Orin. Bred and owned by Kathleen and Oscar Marusich. Many Staffordshires, such as this handsome fawn and white, have each eye covered by a different shade of the coat color. Photo by Evelyn M. Shafer.

45 puppies are about ten days old. At three weeks of age, the puppies may be given a drop or two of vitamin supplement oil or cod-liver oil. Do not force the liquid into their throats, for if any should enter their lungs, pneumonia may result. The puppies should be checked for worms at about three and a

half weeks of age, and, if even one puppy is found infested, all should be wormed.

The bitch usually begins weaning the puppies when they are about three or four weeks of age by regurgitating food for them to eat. This is a good indication that it is time to start supplementary feedings for the puppies. As most breeders begin supplementary feedings (weaning) in the fourth week, anyway, the bitch may never begin the regurgitating feeding. First foods are the same formulas as orphan puppies receive, but here only a few laps a day is necessary. The puppies may have to have their lips and chins gently but repeatedly dipped into the formula before they will start to lap. Do not push the entire face into the formula or you may clog the puppy's nose. Once puppies do lap without coaxing, it may be wise to hold the saucer at chin level to prevent the puppies from walking into the saucer. By five weeks of age, the formula should supplant from one to three regular breast feedings. If formula is fed more than once a day, the morning feed- ing should contain puppy meal or baby cereal; the afternoon meal, crumpled bits of toast; and the evening feeding, a repeat of the morning meal. At six weeks, scraped lean beef can be added to the diet, and the puppies separated from the mother to be returned only for short nursing periods and during the night. The amount of milk, meat, and other items fed should be increased with the puppies' growth. At eight weeks, the puppies should receive four meals a day (see feeding section) and be completely weaned from the female. PUPPY SLEEP Twitching and jerking while asleep are perfectly normal occurrences in puppies and no cause for alarm.

46 8. Health DISTEMPER

In the past, almost any dog ailment was called "distemper," just as in the 18th and 19th centuries, many human diseases in certain parts of the world were labeled "malaria." These ailments have subsequently been more accurately diagnosed. In the case of the dog ailments, a virus was identified by the French scientist H. Carre, in 1905, as the cause of one form of "distemper"; this form then became known as "Carre's Disease." Later, other forms of distemper were more properly diagnosed as pneumonia, coccidiosis, leptospirosis, and other diseases. Modern distemper, therefore, is Carre's disease. Distemper can affect various mammals including dogs, weasels, and raccoons, but the house cat and man are immune (a disease known as feline distemper is caused by another virus; there are reports, also, that humans may pick up very mild and virtually unnoticeable cases of canine distemper.) Distemper occurs throughout the world and at any time of the year, but it is more common in winter. It is most prevalent in puppies from two to twelve months of age, with seven-month-olds appearing the most susceptible.

The earliest symptoms of distemper commonly are poor appetite, list- lessness, and fatigue; temperature is high, running from 103 degrees to 105 degrees. The puppy may whine constantly; his eyes become sensitive to light and exude a watery discharge. Crustlike accumulations may collect around the eyes. After several days, the puppy seems improved and his temperature returns to normal. This is later followed by a second rise in temperature. Thick discharge then appears at the nose and eyes; a short dry cough develops, and the dog may have muscle spasms or shiver re- peatedly. Vomiting and profuse dark-colored diarrhea also occur. The puppy displays extreme thirst.

There is little you can do once the symptoms appear. Many of the symp- toms, however, are caused by bacteria rather than the distemper virus; other diseases may also follow in the wake of distemper. Veterinary help, therefore, can reduce or eliminate the bacteria and the secondary diseases and increase your dog's chances of survival. An early veterinary diagnosis may also save the lives of other dogs that have been in contact with the infected animal.

47 The safest course to pursue is one of prevention. There are a number of excellent distemper vaccines available. // the mother is immune, young puppies will receive temporary immunity while still within the mother's body and also from her colostrum, or "first milk," during the first twenty- four hours of their lives. It is this temporary immunity, which may last as long as sixteen weeks, that prevents successful vaccination of young puppies.

Though it is not necessary to immunize such puppies, many people like to insure immunity by having the veterinarian administer temporary "puppy shots" of homologous serum (the watery part of the blood from another dog, containing antibodies) every nine to fourteen days. Indeed, this may be the wisest course, for the puppy's immunity may not last as long as six- teen weeks. A more certain approach, however, is to take a blood sample from the bitch within a day or two of whelping. This can then be measured scientifically to ascertain how long the puppies' temporary immunity will last. When this time interval has passed the puppies can receive their per- manent vaccine. Researchers at Cornell University, New York, report marked success with a still experimental heterotypic vaccine for puppies. Heterotypic vac-

Ch. Rip Rock Shamrock II. Sire: Ch. X-Pert Pedro Escopeto; dam: Xa Shamrock of Rip Rock. Photo by Evelyn M. Shafer.

48 )

cines are vaccines made from other kinds of virus than those causing the

disease. In this instance, the heterotypic distemper vaccine is made from

human measles virus. The advantage of the heterotypic vaccine is that,

because it contains no distemper viruses, it is effective even if the puppy

has colostral immunity, and it protects the puppy until it is old enough to receive a permanent live virus inoculation at four months.

The puppy's temporary immunity generally wears off some time between weaning and sixteen weeks of age; he becomes susceptible to distemper but

is old enough to receive permanent vaccine. There are two basic kinds of permanent distemper vaccines that are commonly administered by veterin- arians: the Laidlaw-Dunkin type and the attenuated virus type. The Laid- law-Dunkin type requires three dosages, or "shots," about two weeks apart.

The first two shots are of "dead" (inactivated) viruses, while the third shot may be of either inactivated or live viruses. Use of inactivated virus

in the third shot is preferred, even though it makes booster shots necessary. The attenuated virus vaccines are made by cultivating the distemper virus in unusual hosts, such as ferrets (as in the Green distemperoid vaccine) or

chicken embryos still in the egg (as in avianized distemper vaccine). This

cultivation results in harmless viruses that are, however, still capable of stimulating immunity when injected into a dog. Attenuated vaccines require

only one shot and no boosters. As one-fifth of all dogs receiving permanent distemper inoculations lose their immunity after one year, however, many

veterinarians feel that all distemper immunizations would be more certain

if booster shots were given. Live virus boosters give about twelve months' protection, and inactivated virus boosters give three to five months' pro- tection. (See dual and 3-in-l vaccines under hepatitis and leptospirosis.

HEPATITIS

One of the diseases formerly considered "distemper" is infectious canine hepatitis. This is a highly contagious viral disease that produces inflam- mation of the liver and certain other tissues within the body. It occurs most commonly in dogs less than eighteen months old, but it may occur at any age. Transmission of the disease is through contact, either with an infected dog or with infected saliva or urine, but the disease may also be carried on contaminated clothing or hands. There are apparently several varieties or phases of canine hepatitis; this results in a rather confusing array of symptoms. An apparently healthy dog may suddenly collapse and die within twenty-four hours; other dogs may display no symptoms other than high temperature. Generally, however, the disease is characterized by its sudden beginning; temperatures of 105 degrees to 106.5 degrees, which later drop to between 104 degrees and 102 degrees; listlessness; loss of appetite; watery or puslike discharge from

49 the eyes; vomiting of a yellowish liquid; diarrhea, usually with a black tarlike stool; and labored breathing. Hyperimmune serum (watery part of blood from an immune dog) seems to be successful in treating hepatitis. It is also used as a temporary vaccine, giving protection for two to three weeks to puppies or older dogs thought to have been in contact with the disease. Longer-lasting protection may be obtained by the use of a vaccine made from inactivated virus. There is also available a dual vaccine containing live hepatitis virus and live distemper virus, which offers what appears to be permanent protection against both diseases. LEPTOSPIROSIS

Canine leptospirosis is a bacterial disease, damaging to the liver and kidneys, transmitted to dogs by other dogs and by rodents, especially rats. Transmission occurs through contact with substances contaminated by the bacteria-laden urine of an infected animal. Canine leptospirosis occurs in two different forms, but both have many symptoms in common. Certain symptoms, however, may appear either more pronounced or solely in one of the two forms. The various symptoms of leptospirosis include listless- ness, loss of weight, bloody vomit and diarrhea, stiffness in the rear legs, a dark orange or brownish urine, slime formation in the mouth and on the teeth, a yellowish (jaundice) or reddish-brown coloration of the whites of the eyes, and a yellowish cast (jaundice) to the lining of the mouth. Leptospirosis can be transmitted to man, as with dogs, through abra- sions of the skin or through body openings.

Treatment consists of administering antibiotics or, if necessary, blood transfusions. Treatment in the advanced stages of the disease is not effective.

Dogs may die in eight to ten days; if they recover, permanent damage may have been done to the kidneys. Dogs may also continue to carry Leptospira organisms in their urine for as long as six months after recovery.

Preventive vaccines, relatively new, are now available. There is a 3-in-l vaccine combining live avianized distemper and hepatitis viruses plus killed bacteria for leptospirosis. This is given at twelve weeks of age. Yearly boosters are recommended. HARD PAD DISEASE Hard pad disease, also called paradistemper or demyelinating encepha- litis, is a viral disease, particularly affecting dogs less than two years of age, very similar to distemper and even hepatitis. It was first recognized as a separate disease, in England, in 1945. Not much is known about this ail- ment; it is believed to occur in several stages or types. Its varying symptoms, a number of which generally resemble those of distemper, are as follows: coughing, listlessness, diarrhea, occasional vomiting, discharge from the eyes or nose, rapid biting movements known as "champing fits," and con-

50 Ch. Tacoma Cherokee Rose, bred and owned by Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Stinson. Sire: Ch. Tacoma All-Ablate; dam: Ch. Blue Duchess. Photo by Young and Patterson

vulsions. An important diagnostic symptom and one from which the disease takes its name is the drying and hardening, and, frequently, the splitting of the pads of the feet. There is also a tendency for these pads to take on a yellowish coloration. The eyelids, lips, and tip of the nose may also become enlarged and hardened. An overaccumulation of blood in the vessels of the eye, imparting a somewhat reddish tinge, and shivering are also considered by some veterinarians as reliable diagnostic symptoms.

In its early stages, treatment of hard pad disease is the same as for dis- temper; the later stages do not respond to treatment. Distemper vaccines, such as the avianized type, have proven effective in preventing hard pad disease. The English have produced a hard pad disease vaccine. HOUSEDOG DISEASE

Housedog disease or pharyngo-laryngo-tracheitis is prevalent in northern areas, particularly during the winter. It occurs in dogs of all ages, but is most serious in puppies due to possible complications. It seems to prefer- entially strike dogs kept indoors or in heated kennels rather than dogs kept

51 out-of-doors. Housedog disease appears to be somewhat associated with the occurrence of human colds in the household.

Housedog disease is a respiratory infection, presumably caused by a virus, that produces shivering and a phlegmy, gagging cough; the dog may also vomit a white frothy substance.

If there are no complications, the disease runs its course in one to several weeks, but if the virus should invade the brain and damage the tissues (a condition known as encephalitis), twitching, fits, or even death may follow. Secondary bacterial infections, such as pneumonia, may also follow in the wake of housedog disease.

There is, as yet, no clinical prevention or treatment for this disease, but experimental work with blood sera offers a substantial hope. Pneumonia or other secondary ailments can be treated with antibiotics. PNEUMONIA

Pneumonia is an inflammation of the lungs; inflammation can be pro- duced by a variety of substances. Larval or adult parasitic worms present in the lung tissue, particularly in those of puppies, can cause "verminous pneumonia." Inhalation of coal dust, food panicles, or other material into

Ch. Rippers Wish of Rip Rock. Bred and owned by Kathleen Marusich. Sire: X-Pert Bold Skipper; dam: Baby Rockhead.

52 the lungs may produce "inhalation," or "foreign body," pneumonia; the breathing of oily vapors or the entry of drops of oily liquid into the lungs from improper administration of medicine can produce a form of "inhala- tion" pneumonia known as "lipoid" pneumonia. There is also "traumatic" pneumonia, resulting from chest injuries; "viral" pneumonia, caused by viruses; and, the commonest form of pneumonia in dogs, "bacterial" pneu- monia. All forms, however, have generally similar symptoms.

Bacterial pneumonia may result from a new, or primary, infection, but it is generally caused by bacterial organisms already present in the lungs which utilize a weakening or let-down in the dog's body defenses as an opportunity for rapid increase. Thus, the occurrence of other diseases, such as distemper, or the exposure to dampness and chill may be followed by bacterial pneumonia. Dogs with pneumonia display a shallow, rapid and, often, a painful breathing; a grating gurgling noise may be heard in the dog's chest as he breathes. Body temperature is high, running from 104 degrees to 106 degrees. Appetite is poor. A cough may be present, and there may be dis- charge from the eyes and nose.

The dog should be kept in a warm, well-ventilated room, and given rest and quiet. Covering the dog's chest with a sweater is generally advisable.

Feed light foods, such as milk or beef broth, and, later, small amounts of meat. The veterinarian will administer antibiotics, such as penicillin, to combat the bacteria. RABIES

Rabies is a dread viral disease that can affect all species of mammals, including man, as well as many kinds of birds. The rabies virus is carried in the saliva of an infected animal and is transmitted when the animal bites, or, very rarely, when contact is made between virulent saliva and cuts or abrasions in the skin.

After the virus enters the wound with the saliva, it attaches to a close- lying nerve and proceeds along this nerve to the spinal cord, which it follows to the brain. When the virus reaches the spinal cord and brain, the symptoms of rabies appear, and the dog soon dies. Once the symptoms appear, there is no cure.

There are two types of rabies vaccine available: one is made from infected brain tissue and killed virus, and gives protection for about two years; the other is made from avianized (weakened by culture in chicken eggs) live virus and protects for about three years. The avianized vaccine is much preferable, not only because of its longer protection but also because instances of fatal encephalitis developing as a result of administration of the "killed" vaccine have been reported. Yearly boosters are generally recommended for either type of vaccine.

53 Ch. Mounthaven Tex of Har-Wyn UD, bred by Mrs. W. D. Harper, owned by

Howard and Vanice Hadley, and handled by the latter, is shown with Judge

F. W. Bilger, Jr. This handsome male Staffordshire Terrier is holder of the U.D. degree, the highest of the obedience titles. Photo by Joan Ludwig.

ROUNDWORMS Intestinal roundworms are long rounded worms somewhat pointed at each end; they are white, yellowish-white, or, occasionally, reddish in color- ation; they are commonly five inches long, but may range in size from two to eight inches. Their eggs are microscopic. Roundworms live on the digested foods of the host (dog). By secreting a special substance that counteracts enzymes, they resist being digested themselves. When they die, however, they are digested. Two different species infest dogs. In the more injurious form, found principally in puppies and young dogs, the adult female lays thousands of eggs within the stomach or intestines of the dog; these eggs are passed to the outside along with the dog's feces. Once outside, the eggs go through a developmental process—which may take from several days to three weeks depending upon the temperature and humidity—that renders them infective, that is, each egg now contains an embryo roundworm capable of causing infestation. Prior to the infective stage, the eggs are harmless. Eggs may remain alive and infective for years.

When infective eggs are swallowed by a dog and reach his intestines, the

54 outer shell of the egg dissolves and the embryo worm, now known as a larva, is released. The larvae burrow through the intestinal wall into the bloodstream and are carried to various internal organs, most significant of which are the lungs. The larvae either remain and die in the lungs or are coughed up, reswallowed, and returned to the intestines. In the intestines, the larvae grow to maturity in about two months, mate, lay eggs, and begin the cycle once more.

The other species of roundworm is found principally in older dogs. The larvae of this form also hatch in the intestine and burrow into the intestinal wall, but they do not pass into the bloodstream. Instead they remain and grow within the intestinal wall for approximately ten days and then re-enter the intestine. Here they mature in a few weeks and remain until they die.

Infestation is commonly caused by swallowing infective eggs along with food that has somehow become contaminated, as, for example, by contact with infected feces. Worm larvae may also pass from the mother's blood- stream into the bloodstream of her unborn puppies, resulting in infestation even before the puppies are born. The symptoms of roundworm infestation are a general poor condition, a dull harsh coat, and digestive disturbances—commonly diarrhea, but pos- sibly also constipation. In puppies, swollen bellies and listlessness may also be evident, and if infestation is heavy, worms will be present in the puppy's stool or even in his vomit. The presence of larvae in the lungs may cause coughing and verminous pneumonia. Heavy infestation may produce fits; blocking of the intestines by masses of worms may result in death. Unless adult worms are evident, usually coiled up in the dog's feces, positive diagnosis can only be made by a microscopic examination of the feces for the presence of eggs. Female roundworms, however, lay eggs in two to three week cycles, and if a fecal examination is conducted during the non-laying interval, a false diagnosis may be obtained. Because the symptoms of roundworm infestation are varied and often resemble those of other diseases, because worm medicines are poisonous to some degree and somewhat damaging to the dog's intestines, because the proper dosage varies with the age, size, and condition of the dog and the type of drug used, and because the purgative worm medicines produce a messy, watery diarrhea, it is best to have a veterinarian diagnose and treat

(or prescribe for) this condition. A dog should be starved twenty to twenty-four hours before receiving any of several vermicidal drugs, not only because the presence of food dilutes the activity of these drugs but also because certain of them, particularly tetrachlorethylene, will combine with any fatty or oily substance in the stomach and then be absorbed into the body along with these substances; when the drug reaches the liver, the dog will usually die. Even a teaspoon

55 of milk present in the stomach when tetrachlorethylene is administered may prove fatal. N-butyl chloride does not combine with fat and is much safer, but in puppies it may cause nausea and vomiting. Tetrachlorethylene and n-butyl chloride are given at the rate of 1/10 cc for each pound of body weight. One hour after administration of the drug, a teaspoonful of milk of magnesia should be given, and two hours after that, the dog may be fed. Other vermicides, such as the piperazine compounds, are quite effective even in the presence of food, and are often placed directly in the dog's food. These drugs do not kill worm larvae in the bloodstream, and worming should therefore be repeated in two weeks to kill any larvae that have reached the intestine since the previous treatment. Drying and tempera- tures above 98 degrees are generally fatal to the eggs. Children may accidentally swallow infective roundworm eggs. This can be a dangerous situation. The larvae will travel in the bloodstream to various internal organs, including the brain, and may cause serious damage.

Fortunately, this is a very rare occurrence; its infrequent appearances are generally made in children under three years old.

It is wise to have your veterinarian examine the dog's stool twice a year to check for the presence of worms. Routine wormings are both unnecessary and potentially harmful to the dog. FLEAS Four kinds of fleas commonly infest dogs in the United States: the dog flea, the cat flea, the human flea, and the sticktight flea. The dog and cat flea are found throughout the country; the human flea is more common in the West; the sticktight flea is more common in the South. All but the sticktight flea move about actively on the dog; sticktight fleas cluster and remain in preferred locations, usually on the ears and around the eyes. Fleas pass through four stages of development: the egg, the larva (mag- got), the pupa (cocoon), and the adult. In the dog flea, the female lays her eggs on the dog, but the egg drops to the ground. The eggs may lie dormant throughout the winter, but in an optimal warm and humid situa- tion, they will hatch in a few days. The larvae feed on organic material such as dog dandruff, vegetation, and even the feces of adult fleas. In approximately two weeks, when the larvae are somewhat more than one- eighth of an inch long, they spin cocoons and pupate. Pupation usually lasts one week, but under unsuitable conditions it may be prolonged for several months. At the end of this period the adult flea emerges from the cocoon and climbs up on some object to a "jump-off" site about one foot above the ground; from here it leaps onto passing dogs. Male and young female dog

fleas are small, shiny black, and quite active; the adult female is brownish

in color, quite large, and tends to move about less. Dog fleas prefer dogs,

56 Ch. Rip Rock Irish Mike. Bred and owned by Kathleen and Oscar Marusich.

This is a painting by Hidaka, from a photograph by Shafer.

but they will also bite cats and humans. Unfed adults may live several weeks or, in cold and humid conditions, up to several months without food.

Sticktight fleas attach their eggs to the dog; when the larvae hatch they drop to the ground, where they undergo development for about four weeks.

There is a great variety of products effective in killing or removing fleas. Fleas can be killed by antiseptic soaps, by rotenone and other compounds derived from the powdered roots of Derris or cube plants, DDT, methoxy- chlor, lindane, and malathion. Products containing DDT should be used judiciously, and not near cats. Pyrethrins are quick-acting substances, but as the fleas may recover from the effects, it is best to use pyrethrin in combination with other flea-killers. Ectoral, a systemic (taken internally) insecticide, is also very effective. The dog's sleeping quarters must also be chemically treated for a thorough eradication of these pests. Visit your petshop for modern insecticides designed especially for dogs. OTHER WORM PARASITES AND TICKS The presence of other internal worm parasites can be determined by a microscopic examination of the dog's stool or, in the case of heartworms, blood sample. Heartworms, most common in the Southeast, are found

57 throughout the United States; they rob a dog of endurance and often cause death. Control of these parasites is achieved by sanitary feeding and hous- ing conditions and by the eradication of fleas and lice. In addition to these insects, mosquitoes are a major vector, or carrier, of heartworms. Never worm indiscriminately, as all recognized vermicides are potent poisons. Ticks, insect-like creatures related to the spiders, can be kept from annoying your dog by regular application of suitable pesticides. Your pet- shop carries various effective powders, sprays, and dips. Ectoral, as men- tioned under fleas, is effective against ticks. As with internal parasites, external parasites can be controlled in large part by regular grooming and general sanitary conditions.

Ch. Knight Patroller, bred and owned by Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Stinson. Patroller exhibits the broad skull and pronounced cheek muscles so evident in the male Staffordshire Terrier. Photo by Young and Patterson.

58 9. Dog Shows

Dog shows may be considered the supporting pillars of purebred dogdom. They serve as filters, passing through dogs with desired traits and blocking

those with faults. The only catch is that there are differences of opinion as to what constitutes desired traits and what constitutes faults.

If you do not wish to exhibit your dog, you will still enjoy visiting a dog show, either to look over specimens of your favorite breed or to see and familiarize yourself with the great variety of purebred dogs. Standard dog shows may be divided into "formal" shows, where points to- ward championship status are awarded, and "informal" shows, where they are not. Informal shows are generally referred to as match shows or sanctioned shows. A show may be one of three types: all-breed, where any officially re- cognized breed may enter; limited, where only a few breeds or breeds from only one group (terriers, , etc.) are entered; and the speciality, re-

stricted solely to one breed. A popular form of match show is for puppies only. All dog shows are commonly referred to as bench shows, but in actuality a

dog show may be either benched—where each dog is kept on a raised open stall when not being shown, groomed, or exercised—or unbenched—where dogs are kept in the owner's car or some other convenient place. To enter your dog in an A.K.C. approved show, your dog (with certain exceptions) must belong to one of the A.K.C. recognized breeds, be at least six months of age, have no disqualifying faults, and be registered or

eligible for registration with the A.K.C. An entry blank must be filled out —giving information as to breed and sex of dog, the show class or classes in which the dog is to be entered, the dog's sire (father) and dam (mother), and so on—and submitted with an entry fee. In the great majority of dog shows, each dog is entered, according to his

breed and sex into one of five regular classes or, if the dog is a champion,

into the Specials Only class. There are also non-regular classes.

The five regular classes are: puppy class, for American-or Canadian-born dogs between six and twelve months of age; novice class, for dogs six months

and older, which have never won first prize in any class other than the puppy class and which have won less than three times in the novice class

itself; bred-by-exhibitors class, for dogs, other than champions, six months and older owned by the person or people who owned or were leased the dog's mother at the time of her mating; American-bred class, for dogs,

59 other than champions, six months and older, who were conceived and born in the United States; and the open class, for all dogs six months and older, including champions, although champions are rarely entered in this class today. Each class is judged separately; the first place winners of each of the male classes then compete against each other in the Winners Class. The dog taking first place in the Winners Class is known as the Winners Dog and is entitled to championship points, the amount determined by the breed, the number of dogs of the same sex competing, and the section of the country. The defeated dogs in the Winners Class plus the second place dog from the Winners Dog's original class then compete for Reserve Win- ners dog; Reserve Winners dog does not earn championship points unless the Winners Dog is, for some reason, disqualified. The whole judging process is then repeated for the females: judging of the five regular classes, the Winners Class, and the selection of Winners Bitch and Reserve Winners Bitch. The Winners Dog and the Winners Bitch then compete against each other for the Best of Winners. If the Best of Winners has earned less points in its Winners Class than the opponent whom it has just defeated, its total point score is then raised to its opponent's amount. For example, if the Winners Bitch who earned two points defeats the Winners Dog who earned three points, the Winners Bitch is automatically given an extra point to raise her total to three. The Best of Winners then competes in the Specials Only class against champion dogs, who were entered directly into this class, regardless of sex. First place in the Specials Only class earns the dog the title of Best of Breed. The best dog of the opposite sex to the Best of Breed wins the title Best of Opposite Sex. As dogs already champions do not earn additional points for winning in any class, and as the Best of Winners is not competing against dogs that may have possibly earned more points than it did in the present show, no championship points are awarded for Best of Breed or Best of Opposite Sex. The Best of Breed (including the various Bests of Variety—a title awarded in those breeds in which variety of color or coat type are judged separately) then competes against the other

Bests of Breed within its group, such as the terriers, or the hounds, for the title Best of Group. Each Best of Group, one from each of the six groups, then compete against each other for Best in Show. If in winning Best of Group or Best in Show, a dog, not yet a champion, defeats a dog (from a different breed) that has earned more points than itself in the present show, its point total is automatically raised to equal that of the dog it has just defeated. No more than five points may be earned in any one show. A total of fifteen points, won under at least three different judges, is required to make a dog a champion. Part of this total must consist of at least two "majors," or wins of 3—5 points each, awarded by two different judges.

60 Ch. Lylane Amber CD, bred by Bill Gill, owned by Elizabeth Tregoning. The sleek, short coat of the Staffordshire means easy grooming. Photo by Lyle.

In addition to the regular and Specials Only classes, there are non- regular classes in which no championship points are awarded and which

do not lead into further judging. These include the miscellaneous class, open to certain purebred breeds not yet officially recognized by the A.K.C.;

local dogs only class; dogs handled by children class; the brace class, for matched pairs of dogs of one breed belonging to the same owner; the team class, like the brace class but for four dogs; and others.

The U.K.C. operates its bench shows in a similar manner, but under different rules. Dogs must be U.K.C. recognized breeds, and proof of

U.K.C. registration is required. A written application accompanied by an entry fee must be filed. There are three regular classes in which points are awarded. Dogs are entered in these classes according to their breed, sex, and age; puppy class, for dogs less than one year of age; junior class, for dogs between one and two years of age; and the all-age class, for dogs more than two years of age. There is also a mixed-sex special class for champion dogs, in which no points are given, but in which the title Grand Champion of Show can be earned. A certificate of championship is awarded when the dog acquires a total of one hundred points. Winning first place in one of

61 the classes earns ten points, Best Male of Breed (similar to Winners dog) earns fifteen points, as does the Best Female of Breed (similar to Winners bitch), Best of Breed earns fifteen points, and the Best of Show earns ten points. OBEDIENCE TRIALS

Other forms of dog "shows" are the obedience trials, tracking trials, field trials, and sheepdog trials. Obedience trials are held tinder the auspices of the A.K.C., and dogs that qualify win one of the obedience-trial degrees. To be eligible for obedience trials, a dog must belong to one of the A.K.C. recognized breeds, but it does not have to be registered with the A.K.C. Mongrels, however, are sometimes accepted into training classes and awarded certificates of training. Obedience trials are divided into three classes: the novice, the open, and the utility. Novice and open classes are further divided into subclasses A and B; subclass A is for dogs handled by their owners or a member of the owner's immediate family, subclass B is for dogs handled by anyone including professionals. A dog must earn at least three qualifying scores (170 out of 200 points) in novice class competition to be awarded the title of CD. (); this means that in each obedience exercise, such as "heeling on leash," the dog must earn at least fifty percent of the points allotted for that exercise. A dog with a CD.

Ch. Xa Shamrock of Rip Rock is shown handled by Kathleen Marusich. Judge: James V. Robinson. Photo by Wm. Brown.

62 may be entered in the open class, where after three qualifying scores he earns the degree of C.D.X. (Companion Dog Excellent). C.D.X. dogs can be entered in Utility Class competition, and after three qualifying scores are awarded the U.D. (Utility Dog) degree. HANDLERS Many breeders employ professional handlers to exhibit their dogs. The advantages of having a professional handler are twofold: (1) many breeders do not have the time or finances to travel from show to show to give their

dogs the opportunity to earn championships or coveted awards so vital to the success of a kennel; (2) the professional handler's experience in know- ing how to show your dog to its best advantage. Handling your own dog, however, can bring added joy, interest, and excitement in owning your dog, as well as introducing you to the international community of dogdom.

THE A.K.C. STANDARD General Impression—The Staffordshire Terrier should give the impres- sion of great strength for his size, a well put-together dog, muscular, but agile and graceful, keenly alive to his surroundings. He should be stocky, not long-legged or racy in outlines. His courage is proverbial. HEAD—Medium length, deep through, broad skull, very pronounced cheek muscles, distinct stop; and ears are set high. EARS—Cropped or uncropped, the latter preferred. Uncropped ears should be short and held half rose or prick. Full drop to be penalized. EYES—Dark and round, low down in skull and set far apart. No pink eyelids. MUZZLE—Medium length, rounded on upper side to fall away abruptly below eyes. Jaws well defined. Underjaw to be strong and have biting power. Lips close and even, no looseness. Upper teeth to meet tightly out- side lower teeth in front. Nose definitely black. NECK—Heavy, slightly arched, tapering from shoulders to back of skull. No looseness of skin. Medium length. SHOULDERS—Strong and muscular with blades wide and sloping. BACK—Fairly short. Slight sloping from withers to rump with gentle short slope at rump to base of tail. Loins slightly tucked. BODY—Well-sprung ribs, deep in rear. All ribs close together. Forelegs set rather wide apart to permit chest development. Chest deep and broad. TAIL—Short in comparison to size, low-set, tapering to a fine point; not curled or held over back. Not docked. LEGS—The front legs should be straight, large or round bones, pastern upright. No resemblance of bend in front. Hindquarters well-muscled, let down at hocks, turning neither in nor out. Feet of moderate size, well- arched and compact. Gait must be springy but without roll or pace.

63 COAT—Short, close, stiff to the touch, and glossy. COLOR—Any color, solid, parti, or patched is permissible, but all white, more than eighty percent white, black and tan, and liver not to be encouraged. SIZE—Height and weight should be in proportion. A height of about eighteen to nineteen inches at shoulders for the male and seventeen to eighteen inches for the female is to be considered preferable. FAULTS—Faults to be penalized are Dudley (flesh colored) nose, light or pink eyes, tail too long or badly carried, undershot or overshot mouths.

The U.K.C. Standard is unavailable at this time.

Ch. Ruffian High Ace of Har-Wyn, bred, owned, and handled by Mrs. W. D. (Peggy) Harper, being awarded prize ribbon. Photo by Alexander.

64

Another Great Uog Book From

THIS IS THE AMERICAN PIT BULL TERRIER By Richard F. Stratton PS-613 176 pages, hard cover ISBN 0-87666-660-8 $12.95; at pet shops and book

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The history of the American Pit Bull Terrier is the history of gameness and toughness and canine devotion The Perfect Gift Book to duty, and This is the American For Any Occasion Pit Bull Terrier tells of a remarkable breed's remarkable heritage.

Written by one of the breed's pre- mier supporters and students, This is the American Pit Bull Terrier is a clever and well-written blend of practical dog husbandry and histor- ical enchantment. Loaded with photos of good dogs, including some of the most famous in the history of the breed. . . and some of the most famous breeders and owners, too.

For your guidance, here is a listing of the contents of This is the American Pit Bull Terrier:

THE AMERICAN PIT BULL TERRIER. . . THE CLINGING DEATH. . .

OLD WINE IN NEW WINESKINS. .. WHAT GIVES HIM THE EDGE?. . .

.' SHORT ^ND TALL TALES OF THE PIT BULL. . THE SOURCE. . .

SOME FAMOUS DOGS. .. SOME QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. .. OF

BREAKING STICKS, PEDIGREES AND TREADMILLS. .. GLOSSARY

T.F.H. Publications, Inc.

P.O. Box 27 • Neptune, N.J. 07753