1. Cheonggye Plaza 2. Gwangtonggyo Bridge 3. Jeongjo Daewang Neunghaeng Banchado 4. Supyogyo Bridge Site 5. Ogansugyo Bridge 6. Bosingak Bell Pavilion 7. Yukuijeon 8. Tapgol Park 9. Insa-dong 10. Jogyesa Temple 11. Postal Memorial Hall 12. Seoul City Hall 13. Gwanghwamun Plaza 14. National Museum of Korean Contemporary History 15.Seoul Museum of History 16. Jeongdong-gil
- 1 - 1. Cheonggye Plaza The Hidden Charms of Cheonggye Plaza
Cheonggye Plaza is a place of relaxation frequented by Korean and foreign tourists as well as those who work in the many office buildings nearby. The first thing you’ll notice as you walk into the plaza is a tall, red and blue sculpture that looks like a conical shell. It's 'The Spring’, an artwork by two American pop artists, Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen. The artists say that they were inspired by Korea’s uniquely beautiful ceramics, traditional clothes, and full moon. If you look inside ‘The Spring’, you’ll see a trickle of water falling from the top of the sculpture to the bottom, before flowing along a curved groove that leads into the Cheonggyecheon Stream. The groove is a 1/100 scale model of the stream. The Cheonggyecheon Stream is actually a man-made waterway. It was built around the time the Joseon Dynasty was founded to serve as a drainage system for the city. After the fall of the Joseon Dynasty and during the Japanese Occupation of Korea, the occupying Japanese government attempted to fill the stream with concrete because they thought the water was dirty. The stream was completely covered by with concrete in the 1970’s, a few decades after Korea’s independence from Japan, for the construction of Cheonggye Overpass. In 2003, the Seoul Metropolitan Government restored the stream to what you see today. If you walk down the steps from the plaza, you’ll see a two-tier waterfall that marks the beginning of the stream. Right underneath the waterfall, you’ll notice eight thick, stone slabs, which were brought here from all over the country. Each of the eight slabs represents one of the eight provinces of Korea before the country was divided into north and
- 2 - south. Today, they represent a hope for unification. All the slabs are made of rock indigenous to the particular provinces they represent, except for those that represent provinces in North Korea. Stonemasons did their best to find the slabs of stone that best resemble the ones in North Korea. There is no doubt that most people who understand the significance of these rocks wish that someday, the existing slabs will be replaced by the genuine article from North Korea after unification. The rocks are collectively known as ‘Palseokdam’, which simply means ‘A Pond of Eight Rocks’ in Korean. A few meters down from these rocks, you’ll come across a saucer-shaped granite sculpture with a hole in the middle. It serves as a wishing well into which to toss coins. Throw a coin into the hole to make a wish. It doesn’t matter if you fail; all the coins collected are donated to the needy. A festival is held each season at Cheonggye Plaza. It is a great place to visit if you would like to learn about the history of Korea and the experience is unique.
- 3 - 2. Gwangtonggyo The Most Important Bridge of the Joseon Bridge Dynasty
Gwangtonggyo Bridge was built around 600 years ago but it had been buried under the ground for over 100 years before it was recently restored. If you look carefully at the stone blocks, you’ll see that some of them are much darker than the rest. Right below the low bridge, you’ll also find a number of stone blocks engraved with an image of divine guardian surrounded by patches of cloud. These stones were brought from the tombs of kings and queens. How did these valuable pieces of art end up being used in the construction of a bridge? It was as a result of a feud between members of the royal family at the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty. Yi Bang-won was denied his rightful rank of crown prince by his step-mother, Queen Sindeok, who favored her own son Yi Bang-seok and ensured that he became the crown prince. Yi Bang-won despised the queen for depriving him of his title, and never forgave her, even after her death. When he finally assumed the throne and became King Taejong, the third king of Joseon, he ordered the queen’s grave be relocated and the stones from her tomb be used to construct this bridge. The construction of the bridge was motivated by hatred, but it served a very important purpose. All subsequent royal parades passed over the bridge, along with each of the foreign envoys that came to visit the palace. In addition, various folk festivals were held on the bridge, particularly on the day of the first full moon of the year. People flew kites from the bridge during the day, and played a game similar to stepping stones at night. In those days, people, both men and women, were only officially permitted to walk around outside at night during this particular festival. People from different social classes
- 4 - came together to stroll back and forth across the bridge all night long. The activity was very popular due to the belief that walking across the bridge would ensure the health of one’s legs and protect them from any injury or disease! People also believed that eating seasoned vegetables, peanuts, chestnuts, and other types of nuts on the day of the first full moon could drive away evil spirits. They thought that ghosts and evil spirits hated the sound of a nut being cracked. So, are you ready to take a walk on the bridge just like the people of Joseon did centuries ago?
- 5 - 3. Jeongjo Daewang Jeongjo Banchado, the Royal Procession to Neunghaeng Banchado Suwon
This large mural is titled ‘Jeongjo Daewang Neunghaeng Banchado’. Composed of 4960 tiles, it’s the world's largest ceramic mural and is 192 meters in length. The mural depicts King Jeongjo, the 22nd king of Joseon, on his way to Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, where he would visit his father’s grave and host his mother’s 60th birthday party. The mural depicts a grand procession of 1,779 people and 779 horses, but historical records show that there were over 6,000 people following the procession. The detailed mural is depicted from the side and slightly behind, making it easier to notice the rank and position of the attendees. Take a closer look at the artwork. You'll see that the Governor of Gyeonggi-do is leading the way, followed by a band of soldiers and court ladies. Right behind them is the king's mother, Queen Hyegyeonggung. The king’s mother is followed by a horse on which King Jeongjo rode. However, the king is nowhere to be seen in this mural. This is because artists were forbidden to represent their king during the Joseon period, except when they were commissioned to paint a portrait. Portraits of the king were revealed only after his death. This mural is generally considered an important work of art depicting the people of Joseon and King Jeongjo's familial love for his father, Crown Prince Sado.
- 6 - Supyogyo Bridge with a Water Marker to 4. Supyogyo Bridge Measure the Water Level of Site Cheonggyecheon Stream
This is Supyogyo Bridge. The bridge was originally made of stone, but wood was used to restore the original shape. It was named ‘Supyogyo’ when a water marker, or ‘supyo’ in Korean, was erected by it to measure the depth of the Cheonggyecheon Stream. Along with a rain gauge invented by Jang Yeong-sil, a prominent scientist and astronomer during the Joseon Dynasty under the reign of King Sejong the Great, the water marker is the world’s first hydrological instrument. Thanks to this ingenious invention, local people could prepare for possible flooding of the stream. The bridge is also famous for being the place where King Sukjong and Royal Lady Jang met for the first time. One day, when King Sukjong was on his way back to the palace after attending a royal ancestral rite, he happened to see a commoner named Jang Ok-jeong near this bridge. The king proceeded to return to the palace, but he couldn’t stop thinking about the beautiful girl. He ordered her to work at the palace as a lady of the court. His love for her only grew stronger, so he later made her his queen. Cross the bridge and walk along the stream, and you’ll see a water fountain laser show. The show enhances the beauty of the view of Seoul at night, a city of skyscrapers. Combined with an interesting history, the light show makes Supyogyo Bridge one of the perfect places to visit in Seoul.
- 7 - The site of the largest dredge ever built and 5. Ogansugyo Bridge maintained during the Joseon Dynasty
This is Ogansugyo Bridge. However, during the Joseon Dynasty, it was not a bridge but a set of sluice gates through which the Cheonggyecheon Stream flowed. At the time, Seoul was a walled city, and the gates were part of the fortress wall. They were named ‘Ogansumun' because there were five sluice gates in total, and the word literally means “five sluice gates” in Korean. It was through these five sluice gates that waste water flowed out of the city. They were also used as an escape route for those wanting to escape the city without being seen, because the sluice gates were not as heavily guarded as the four main gates of the city. Topographically, Seoul is located in a valley with the Cheonggyecheon Stream flowing through the middle and hills and mountains surrounding it. For this reason, sedimentation was a problem, and the natural process was accelerated by household waste water. Rapid accumulation of sediment was the main cause of frequent flooding, and the kings of the Joseon Dynasty often had to order their administration to clean up the stream. Yeongjo, the 21st king of the Joseon Dynasty, in the 18th century even created an independent government office to launch a large-scale construction project to solve the sedimentation problem. The office left written records of the construction, including the king’s letters of
- 8 - commendation to his subjects for their service in the project and diagrams of the construction design. They are displayed right below this bridge. The five sluice gates were relatively well-maintained up until the end of the Joseon Dynasty, but they were demolished and replaced with this concrete bridge during the Japanese occupation of Korea because they inhibited the flow of the water. The route of Korea's first trolley car crossed this bridge. In 1926, the funeral procession of Sunjong, the second and last Emperor of the Korean Empire, passed over the bridge as well.
- 9 - 6. Bosingak Bell The Buddhist bell at Bosingak Pavilion Pavilion announces the arrival of the New Year
This pavilion was named ‘Bosingak’ by Emperor Gojong in 1895. Before that, it was originally called Jonggak. Why do you think Gojong, or the ruler of the Great Han Empire, renamed it Bosingak? It was renamed because of the traditional values of the nation Joseon, most of which were focused on Confucianism. For a very long time, Joseon and its people placed utmost importance on five Confucian virtues: humanity, righteousness, propriety, wisdom and faithfulness. These five virtues are the very reason why King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, had Heunginjimun Gate, Donuimun Gate, Sungnyemun Gate, and Sukjeongmun Gate built on the four cardinal points of the capital city to represent humanity, righteousness, propriety, and wisdom respectively. At the end of the Joseon Dynasty, Emperor Gojong followed suit by naming the pavilion ‘Bosingak’ to supplement the flow of energy through the four gates. As you can see, the new name represented the one missing virtue - the word ‘sin’, or ‘faithfulness’ in Korean. During the Joseon Dynasty, the Buddhist bell inside Bosingak Pavilion tolled 33 times at 4 o’clock in the morning to signal the gatekeepers to open the gate, and 28 times at 10 o’clock in the evening to let them know that it was time to close the city gates. In addition to serving as a clock, the bell was rung whenever there was a big fire to alert people of the danger. Today, the Buddhist bell is better known as the ‘New Year's Bell’. On the big night of the New
- 10 - Year's Eve, more than one hundred thousand people come here to listen to the bell ring 33 times exactly at the stroke of midnight of the New Year’s Eve, so they can celebrate the New Year and make wishes at the sound of the bell. In addition to the New Year’s Bell Ringing Ceremony, the bell is rung daily at noon from January 2nd through December 24th, except on Mondays. Anyone can volunteer to ring the bell twelve times at noon by submitting a request to the official Seoul Metropolitan Government website. You can sound the bell yourself, so why not give it a try?
- 11 - Yukuijeon and Sijeon, as the Shopping 7. Yukuijeon District of the Joseon Dynasty
Yukuijeon Museum is in the basement of a nine-story building. The site was chosen for the construction of the museum because evidence of a ‘yukuijeon’, or government-controlled store peculiar to the Joseon Dynasty, was discovered here in 2003, buried under the ground, during the demolition of an old building. The term ‘yukuijeon’ refers to the government-licensed stores that traded six specific products including silk, cotton, paper and fish during the Joseon Dynasty. Most of the stores were located in the same area, near today's Jonggak Station at Jongno intersection. During the Joseon Dynasty, more than 2,500 stores existed here so when people say “yukuijeon”, they’re more often than not referring to this large, unique shopping district. Let’s take a look inside the museum. When you step inside, you’ll see an array of flags hanging on the wall. The flags once represented the stores of ‘yukuijeon’. Through the glass floor, you’ll see a reproduction of the interior of a typical ‘yukuijeon’ store. On the wall, you’ll see a map of the stores and an animated film showing how the merchants would have bartered and negotiated in the past. The film is designed to offer visitors a glimpse into the past. One of the most interesting things at the museum is a miniature model of ‘Pimatgol’. The word ‘Pimatgol’ is an old Korean term that originated from the word ‘Pimagil’, which roughly translates to ‘a road away from horses and palanquins’. During the Joseon Dynasty, the main road called ‘Unjongga’ led directly to the palace, and the King and the top echelons of society travelled into and out of the palace on horseback or in a palanquin along this
- 12 - road. Commoners were required to stop, make way for their leaders, kowtow, and maintain their position until the aristocrat was out of sight. People found this very inconvenient, so they preferred taking an alleyway that ran parallel to the main road. This alley became known as ‘Pimagil’, meaning ‘a road to avoid horses’. Despite being a narrow alley, Pimatgol has for centuries been home to many restaurants that serve delicious food at low prices. Today, after many decades of urbanization, only a small portion of this historic road remains in the district of Jongno. However, most residents of Seoul have visited the alley at least once to dine at one of the restaurants.
- 13 - 8. Tapgol Park The Birthplace of the March 1st Movement
This is Tapgol Park. This largely empty park is where or the March 1st Movement, part of the Korean independence movement, began. The Korean Declaration of Independence was first read publicly here, which marked the beginning of the March 1st Independence Movement in 1919. The historic movement sparked at this very place spread throughout the peninsula despite attempts by governing Japanese forces to suppress the uprising. Needless to say, thousands were killed and more than ten thousand people were injured during the demonstrations. The Declaration of Independence was read from Palgakjeong Pavilion. Today, you can see a mural in the pavilion depicting scenes from the movement as well as read the actual text of the Declaration inscribed on the Declaration of Independence Memorial Tower. The inscription on the memorial tower expresses both the anger and the courage of the Korean people. The First Urban Park of Seoul Tapgol Park is of historical importance not only because it is the birthplace of the March 1st Independence Movement, but it was also known during the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties. During Goryeo, it was the site of a Buddhist temple called Heungboksa, and during the early Joseon period, it was the site of Wongaksa temple. Some of the ruins
- 14 - and traces of the temples can still be found at the monument, located to the right of the octagonal pavilion. The person responsible for commissioning the temple and the 13-story stone pagoda was none other than King Sejo in the 15th century, the seventh ruler of the Joseon Dynasty. It was very rare for a king to order the construction of a Buddhist temple since Confucianism was widely accepted and considered not simply the teachings of Confucius but the national religion during the Joseon Dynasty. The foundation stone of the monument is carved into the shape of a turtle with lotus petals. The head of the monument is entwined with twin dragons. Right behind the pavilion is the Ten-story Stone Pagoda, which is designated as National Treasure No. 2. The top portion of the stone pagoda is carved with sculptures depicting the life of Buddha. This stone pagoda is currently kept behind protective glass because it is made of granite, a delicate stone susceptible to damage. The once-grand temple descended into ruins in the middle of the Joseon Dynasty after the dynasty stopped funding the building, and for centuries since then, it has been left largely untouched. In 1897, Emperor Gojong ordered it to be redeveloped as a garden as proposed by his financial advisor John McLeavy Brown. At first, the park was primarily used to hold royal ancestral rites and musical concerts. It wasn’t until 1920 that it became the public park you see today.
- 15 - 9. Insa-dong The Streets of Tradition
Insa-dong is one of the most popular attractions for international tourists visiting Seoul, because it’s probably the best place in the city to see the combination of traditional and modern Korea. During the Joseon Dynasty, a small village not far from Insa-dong was home to Dohwaseo, a government office in charge of illustrating royal processions and events. Many of the employees of Dohwaseo lived in and around the area. However, after the decline of the Joseon Dynasty the office was closed and the workers lost their jobs. Later, their descendants started selling artworks and even the tools used to draw or paint them on the streets of Insa-dong. Gradually they established a market dealing in antique arts and crafts, and that’s how the area became the center of traditional culture and art. Of all the many streets and alleys of Insa-dong, Ssamziegil is the busiest shopping street. Although it's called a street, the name actually refers to the hallways of a four-story shopping center with over 70 stores. The shopping center is worth a visit because in addition to the stores selling traditional handicrafts and souvenirs, there are also galleries and tea shops. There is a basement floor as well, where you can make your own pottery, Korean paper and ceramic products. Opposite Ssamziegil, you'll find a narrow alley. Walk up the alley a short way, and you’ll come across the Insa-dong Tourist Information Center. Also called the Insa-dong PR Center, the main role of this center is to provide information about local stores and restaurants. Besides providing useful information, the center offers free tea and you can also try on royal costumes or the uniform dress
- 16 - worn by the court ladies of the Joseon Dynasty. Above all, the places not to be missed in Insa-dong are the small, private galleries with unique paintings, stationery shops selling traditional everyday necessities and Korean paper, and antique shops. If you would like to try a delicious cup of traditional Korean tea, you may choose to patronize any one of the traditional tea shops and tea houses along the street. In the streets of Insa-dong, you'll get to enjoy the harmony existing between the traditional and the modern.
- 17 - Jogyesa, a Buddhist temple in the middle of 10. Jogyesa Temple downtown area
Welcome to Jogyesa Temple! Jogyesa, the head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, was established by a group of Buddhist monks in 1910. The ‘iljumun ’, or 'One Pillar Gate’, is the first thing you’ll see as you step into the temple grounds from the street. Although it’s called a gate, the structure doesn’t have any doors, so anyone is welcome to enter. They say the gate is designed in this way to remind visitors to leave all their worldly worries behind when they come to a temple. Next to the white pine tree, you’ll see a statue of Buddha with an innocent smile on his face. They say this statue was created to make young visitors feel at home when they come to a Buddhist temple like this. The ‘Daeungjeon’ building is right in the middle of the temple grounds. Being the most important building in any Korean temple, the Daeungjeon is almost always the largest and most magnificent building. The word Daeungjeon’ literally means “the hall of a hero.” Here, the hero is none other than Sakyamuni Buddha, so the more precise meaning of the word Daeungjeon is “the hall enshrining the statue of Sakyamuni.” The hall enshrines three Buddha
- 18 - statues. To the right of the statues, you’ll also see a wooden statue of Buddha built in the early Joseon Dynasty. Lining one wall, there is an array of mortuary tablets. The monks and the families of the dead pray for the safe passage of these souls to the Pure Land of Amitabha Buddha. In the yard in front of of Daeungjeon, you’ll see a ten-story octagonal stupa containing Buddhist relics, or more precisely the sarira of Sakyamuni. The stupa was built in 2009 to replace the old Japanese-style pagoda, after the Buddhist relics were brought here from Sri Lanka. Many people visit Jogyesa Temple to pray whilst walking in meditative circles around this stupa. Visitors also come to see the mural depicting the life of Buddha adorning the wall of the Daeungjeon building, the Buddhist Bell of Jogyesa, and the Central Buddhist Museum. Relax and Heal Your Mind in the Middle of a Busy City Conveniently located in the middle of Seoul, Jogyesa Temple offers a temple-stay program for people to ease both their body and mind. During the program, participants will have the opportunity to play some Buddhist musical instruments at 4:00am and 6:00pm in the bell pavilion. Many find the sound of the music very soothing and it is known as "the sound of Buddhism." If you go into the Daeungjeon Hall, or the Hall of Sakyamuni, you’ll see a number of Korean Buddhist monks praying. Please remain quiet and whilst visiting the hall and respectful of the Buddhists and monks praying and meditating. There is also a Buddhist shop that sells curioused by Buddhists during prayer as well as souvenirs. The items on display are quite interesting, and they’ll also help you better understand Buddhism. If you’re interested in Buddhism and a temple-stay, Jogyesa is a good place to start. Directly opposite Jogyesa Temple, you’ll find the Temple stay Information Center where you can find all the information you will need about staying at any of the Buddhist temples in Korea for a couple of nights or more. If you feel the need to relax and soothe your mind, Jogyesa Temple might just be the place for you. It’s open 24 hours a day too.
- 19 - 11. Postal Memorial A Letter from the Past Hall(Ujeongchongguk)
Welcome to the Postal Memorial Hall! The hall serves as both a post office and a museum dedicated to the commemoration of Ujeong Chongguk, Korea's first post office. Hong Yeong-sik was both the founder and first manager of Ujeong Chongguk. A politician towards the end of the Joseon Dynasty, he was one of a number of diplomats sent to Japan and the United States. while visiting those two countries, he took particular interest in their modern postal services. Upon his return home, he founded modern post office system in Korea, based on his experience abroad. Sadly, the post office closed down just 20 days later for political reasons: Hong and other modernists took part in a failed coup d’état, and the government shut down the post office by force. Now let’s take a look at what's on display at the Postal Memorial Hall. The courtyard in front of the memorial hall is laid with tiles designed to replicate stamps that have commemorated major historical events. If you enter the building, you’ll see the first stamps used in Korea, as well as postal worker uniforms, paraphernalia of the time and the first post service areas. If you would like to know more about the first post office of Korea, you can use the touch screen in the guest lounge of the exhibition hall. For many years, the building was only as an exhibition hall but in 2012 it resumed some postal services. Some sections of the memorial hall offers various activities for visitors to participate in. For example, there is a ‘Mailbox of Wishes’ that will deliver your letter containing your list of wishes to you one year after you post it, a ‘Personal Stamp’ corner
- 20 - where you can take a picture of yourself and use it to make your own stamp, and a ‘Love Message Window’ where your postcards will be posted in a window before being sent to the recipient. International tourists can also use the 'Love Message Window’, but must pay for the stamps in advance. At the Postal Memorial Hall, you’ll see just how much Koreans used to love writing letters to their loved ones.
- 21 - Seoul Plaza, Where People Laughed and 12. Seoul City Hall Cried Together
Originally, Seoul Plaza was not a square but a road. As part of modernization efforts, Emperor Gojong of the Korean Empire ordered the construction of major roads leading outwards from the main gate of Deoksugung Palace. With major roads came major intersections. This particular intersection is where the people of Seoul came to stage demonstrations in times of crisis. It was the birthplace of a number of major national movements, such as the March 1st Independence Movement against the Japanese occupation and annexation of Korea, the April Revolution of 1960, and the June Democratic Movement. It’s also where hundreds of thousands of people came to celebrate during the World Cup in 2002. More than one million people came to Seoul Plaza to cheer for their team, and were overjoyed when Korea came fourth. Almost the entire crowd in Seoul Plaza and wore a red shirt, creating quite a visual spectacle for the world to see! After the 2002 World Cup, there was a general consensus that the area should be maintained as a large, open square where the people of Seoul could congregate. Accordingly, in 2004, the large fountain in the middle of Seoul Plaza was demolished and replaced with the grassy lawn you see today. Today, Seoul Plaza bustles with people all throughout the year. In the heat of summer, people visit the plaza to cool down under the
- 22 - jets of cold water bubbling up from the ground. In the freezing winter weather, the Plaza is transformed into an ice-skating rink for fun-seeking families and young people. It also serves as a great venue for festivals and events, such as the ‘Hi Seoul Festival’. Seoul Plaza deserves credit for being a historical venue, and it serves to remind us that history can be shaped according to the enthusiasm and needs of the masses. Seoul City Hall, an Open Area for the Residents. Welcome to Seoul City Hall! The classic, old building in front of you is the Old Seoul City Hall, and the glass building right behind you is the New Seoul City Hall. The Old Seoul City Hall building was originally constructed during the Japanese occupation of Korea for other purposes, but it became the City Hall after Korea gained independence. Today, after renovation, a public library occupies the first to fifth floors. In addition to free access to books, the library also offers free internet so it’s a great place to come to gather information. For tourists, the Mayor’s Office is the highlight of the Old Seoul City Hall. The office that was once the workplace of Seoul’s former mayors is open to visitors and anyone wishing to take a picture sitting on a chair once sat upon by the former mayors of Seoul may do so! Open since 2012, the New Seoul City Hall has a unique design. Ivy, jasmine, lavender and other plants grow on the walls from the first to the seventh floor. With over 65,000 plants in total, the place is very green! The plants cleanse the air and also help to maintain both the temperature and optimal humidity level.
- 23 - 13. Gwanghwamun Plaza The Mainstream of Politics and Culture
In Gwanghwamun Square, you’ll find yourself surrounded by tall buildings, a steady stream of traffic and bustling crowds of people. The main entrance to the palace, and in between two five-lane roads, the square is a venue for large-scale events. It has been a symbolic feature of the city for centuries. Its history dates back to the foundation of the Joseon Dynasty more than 600 years ago. Yi Seong-gye, the founder of the dynasty, directed construction of the palace so that his office looked over a large, open area so that he could see the people of the city whenever he wanted to. He also had the buildings of all six ministries including the administrative and judicial offices constructed on either side of Gwanhwamun Square. As you can see, Gwanghwamun Square was a place of communication between the people and king during the Joseon Dynasty. However, the square and nearby areas became the center of turmoil and humiliation for the nation during the Japanese occupation of Korea. The Japanese established their ‘Government-General of Joseon’ office inside Gyeongbokgung Palace with the intention of destroying the spirit of nationalism and culture of Joseon. After liberation from Japan, the wooden structure atop the gate was damaged by fire during the Korean War. It was reconstructed with concrete in 1968, but the job wasn’t enough to restore the dignity of the palace. It wasn’t until 2010 that Gwanghwamun Gate
- 24 - was restored to its original location and splendor. The restoration of the palace gate gave birth to the new Gwanghwamun Square, designed to serve as a historical and cultural venue. The area in front of the palace gate had not been pedestrian-friendly since the time of the Japanese occupation of Korea but it's now an open space for people to come and enjoy once again! The Korean History Viewed from Gwanghwamun At Gwanghwamun Square, you will see an imposing statue of General Yi Sun-shin and a smiling statue of King Sejong. Admiral Yi Sun-shin is credited with protecting the country from the invading Japanese in the middle of the Joseon Dynasty. His statue was erected by the people of Korea in the middle of Gwanghwamun Square to honor his great service to the nation. King Sejong the Great is responsible for creating ‘hangul’, the official language of Korea. Go around the statue of King Sejong the Great, and walk down the stairs. There, you’ll find an exhibition hall called ‘The Story of King Sejong’, with his biography and achievements on display. Complemented by the latest technology, the exhibitions tell the stories of the great king’s childhood as well as his lifetime achievements as monarch. There are various multimedia tools readily available for visitors to see how this great king had contributed to the development of Joseon. There are also programs that will help you understand 'hangul’, a corner showing the invention of a sundial, and 3D video of the ‘Royal Ancestral Rite and Ritual Music’. On the opposite side of the hall is another exhibition hall dedicated to Admiral Yi Sun-shin. Here, you can learn a little about General Yi’s life and achievements. In the corner of the hall, you can see a 4D display of the ‘Turtle Ship’ that will help you to better understand this greatly-respected general. Visitors are welcome to row the oars, assemble a miniature turtle ship, and participate in other interesting activities in the hall. There are other cultural facilities around Gwanghwamun Square that will make your visit worthwhile. Some of the must-visit places are the Sejong Center for Performing Arts where you can enjoy performances, National Museum of Korean Contemporary History where you can learn about the modern history of Korea, and Kyobo Bookstore, which is the flagship store of Korea’s largest chain of bookstores.
- 25 - 14. National Museum of Learn about the history of Korea Korean Contemporary History
This is the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History, where you can take a glimpse at the modern history of Korea, covering the period from the end of the Joseon Dynasty when the nation first opened up to the world until the present. The museum has four permanent exhibition halls and two special exhibition halls on its five floors. The first floor is furnished with state-of-the-art display equipment for a 3D experience in addition to two special exhibition halls. Let's take a look at the permanent exhibition halls in numerical order. Exhibition Hall 1 is situated on the third floor and has a theme: 'Prelude to the Republic of Korea.' It covers the period between the opening up of the Joseon Dynasty and liberation from Japan. The most important exhibit in this hall is the Korean Declaration of Independence. The statement was read out loud to the masses on March 1st 1919, to mark the beginning of the largest independence movement during the period of the Japanese occupation of Korea. Go up to the fourth floor, and you'll find Exhibition Hall 2, which is dedicated to the ‘Foundation of the Republic of Korea's Government'. Here, you'll be able to appreciate the significance of events integral to the Korean nation such as establishing a new government and the pain and survival of the Korean War. Move up to the fifth floor, and you'll pass through Exhibition Halls 3 and 4. Exhibition Hall 3 exhibits a wide variety of products that represent the rapid industrial growth experienced in Korea. Koreans fondly call this phase of their modern history "The Miracle of Hangang River". Behind the miraculously fast development of the country, there were also exploited victims of the industrialization and modernization. This section
- 26 - of the museum demonstrates, using various print and audio-visual materials, the sacrifices made by people to achieve economic development and build a democratic society. Exhibition Hall 4 is dedicated to where Korea stands today in the modern world after the age of industrialization, particularly in terms of sports, entertainment and culture. Koreans proudly refer to this current phase of their history as the age of 'hallyu', or the 'Korean wave', known and influential throughout the world. In summary, you'll see how Koreans have persevered despite their struggles at the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History.
- 27 - 15. Seoul Museum of History A Time Travel to the Past
The Seoul Museum of History offers its visitors a glimpse into the history of Seoul, the capital city of Korea. The museum shows how the city has transformed by exhibiting relics of days gone by. The exhibits at the museum are divided into four main themes: Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty, Seoul during the Korean Empire, Seoul during the Japanese Occupation, and Seoul as one of the fastest growing cities in the world. The first section of the museum consists of a permanent exhibition hall entitled ‘Seoul of the Joseon Dynasty’. This exhibition explains why the founders of the dynasty chose Seoul to be their capital city, and shows what the city looked like when Korea opened up to the world for the first time in its history. In this hall, you’ll see photos and videos of Gwanghwamun Square when it was called Yukjogeori many decades ago, Bukchon, an area home to the elite of the old dynasty, as well other outposts of the capital, situated outside the gates of the walled city. The second exhibition hall, entitled ‘The Capital of the Korean Empire’ shows how the city transformed after opening up to the world and accepting western influence. You’ll see photos of people getting on trams and using electrical appliances for the first time in their lives. The next exhibition hall is called ‘Seoul under Japanese Control’. This hall highlights the plight of Seoul residents who struggled to cope with enforced Japanese culture whilst
- 28 - fighting for their independence after Japan’s Annexation of Korea in 1910. The fourth and last exhibition hall is entitled ‘The Development of Seoul’. This section shows the transformation of the city after liberation from Japan in 1945 and the exhibition continues until 2002, when the country hosted the FIFA World Cup. Here, you’ll see both a city in ruins after the Korean War and one of the world’s largest, developed cities. One of the most popular attractions of the museum is the ‘City Model Image Hall’ on the third floor. This hall includes a 1:1,500 scale model of Seoul and videos created by some of the latest IT technology. You will be able to see Seoul and the buildings within the city in minute detail. If you want to learn more about Seoul, use the ‘Find Seoul’ system in the corner of the hall. It’s quite helpful if you want to find your way around the city. The Seoul Museum of History is the place to go if you want to learn more about Seoul.
- 29 - Jeongdong-gil, a Combination of Tradition 16. Jeongdong-gil and Modernity
Many people visit Jeongdong-gil for the romantic allure of its century-old buildings such as the Seoul Museum of Art, Chongdong Theater and Deoksugung Palace. For the most part, it’s a very pleasant part of the city to visit, but much of the area has been influenced by turbulent periods in the history of Korea. It’s mainly because most of the Western-style buildings along the road were built at the end of the Joseon Dynasty in the 20th century. The legations of powerful nations were located here, along with a number of churches under their protection. These buildings were followed by missionary schools founded by numerous religious organizations. The Korean Empire followed the Joseon example by constructing modern architectural features such as Jungmyeongjeon, an imperial library. The buildings that remain along Jeongdong-gil are testimony to the efforts aimed at modernization to modernize, and represent the struggle of the nation to stand shoulder to shoulder with those more powerful. Most people today are oblivious to this phase of history. The older generation, however, is familiar with the area for a different reason. Older Korean people have heard the old wives’ tale that if a couple walks along Jeongdong-gil, they will soon separate. The tale stems from the fact that the Seoul Family Court was located here in the 1980’s. In order to file for divorce, married couples had to attend the courthouse. Ironically, the old courthouse was redeveloped and is now the Seoul Museum of Art, a venue that attracts many young couples on dates!
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