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SPECIAL BRA CELE TION ISSUE IN PERANAKAN CULTURE, THE PAIRING OF JADE AND GOLD IS AUSPICIOUS. JADE SYMBOLISES BEAUTY, STRENGTH AND IS BELIEVED TO PROTECT THE WEARER. GOLD IS FLEXIBLE, ADAPTABLE AND BRINGS GOOD FORTUNE. TOGETHER, THEY BESTOW AN ABUNDANCE OF BLESSINGS.

            Kerosang   


11 Cavenagh Road #01-03/04/05, Holiday Inn Singapore Orchard City Centre, Singapore 229616 Opening Hours: Daily 12:30 pm - 8:00 pm except for Saturdays up to 6:00 pm. Closed on Sundays & Public Holidays. Tel: +65 6732 6141 / 6738 3151 Email: [email protected] In this Special t 50 52 58 h HUMOUR DALAM DAPOR BOOKS Pintu Jagong Chian Orang Kah Our Mamas' Merah Semayang? Recipes ANNIVERSARY120 ISSUE Door Corn Red Having a party or prayers? 4 5 6 59 60 61

NEWS EDITOR’S LETTER CHAKAP CHAKAP BOOKS BOOKS BOOKS Peranakan Theatre To Everything, President's Message Amek Gambar — 90 Years The Bewelled Doyen Wins There is a Season Taking Pictures: in Lives of the Heritage Award Peranakans Singapore Peranakans 8 16 & Photography

FEATURES FEATURES Founding Fathers Coming Clean A look at the Association's pioneers Read about Peranakan hygiene practices. 63 64 65

MUSEUMS NOTICEBOARD FEDERATION LISTING 20 24 Crafted Heritage

FEATURES FEATURES The Association Yok Tua Heroines of would like to thank Chinese Medical Prescriptions 66 68 Wayang Peranakan Jane Goh of RJ PAPER ON THE COVER Meet theatre's leading ladies. CHAKAP HABIS DIRECTORY for generously donating the paper stock to print A GLORIOUS WATERCOLOUR A Widow's The Peranakan Guide this bumper issue of the OF A PHOENIX RISING BY magazine. ARTIST GABBY MALPAS, Wrath Singapore SPECIALLY PAINTED FOR 28 34 THIS CELEBRATION ISSUE OF THE MAGAZINE TO MARK FEATURES FEATURES THE ASSOCIATION'S 120TH ANNIVERSARY. Serving the Agnes Tan: GABBY IS REPRESENTED IN THE PERANAKAN ASSOCIATION SINGAPORE • President Colin Chee • First Vice-President Genevieve Peggy Jeffs • Second Vice- SINGAPORE BY UTTERLY ART Monkey God 101 & Counting President Raymond Wong • Honorary Secretary Philip Yeo • Assistant Honorary Secretary Tony Tan • Honorary Treasurer Ronney Tan Koon Siang LLP. SEE MORE OF HER WORK • Honorary Assistant Treasurer Elizabeth Ng • Committee Members Gwen Ong, Dawn Marie Lee, Ngiam May Ling, Sylvia Peh, Josephine Tan, A fascinating tale of the Tai Seng Yah in Tiong Bahru. Philanthropy is in her blood. AT GABBYMALPAS.COM Bryan Tan, Christopher Tan, Theresa Tan

THE PERANAKAN MAGAZINE • Editor Dawn Marie Lee • Assistant Editor Emeric Lau • Editorial Adviser Linda Chee • Creative Adviser John Lee • Designer Joanne Low • Editorial Committee Members Colin Chee, Bryan Tan, Ronney Tan Koon Siang, Natalie Cheah, Joanne Tan 38 42 44 De-Zilva, Billy Tay • Webmaster Noel Ng • Web Adviser Victoria Chanel Lee • For advertising enquiries, please email: [email protected] The Peranakan is published by The Peranakan Association Singapore, Raffles City PO Box 1640, Singapore 911755 FEATURES FEATURES FICTION Email | [email protected] • Printer | Oxford Graphic Printers Pte Ltd MCI (P) 051/11/2020

All reasonable efforts have been made to identify and contact copyright holders but in some cases these could not be traced. If you hold or administer rights for materials Chakap Chakap Modernising Jodoh published here, please contact the publishers. Any errors or omissions will be corrected in subsequent editions. Copyright is by the publisher. All rights reserved. No por- Destiny tion of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior permission of the publisher. The Peranakan Magazine and The Peranakan Association Singapore disclaim all responsibilities in the articles herein, Budak Budak the Manek and state that the views expressed in them, if any, are those of the writers and not theirs. They assume no responsibility for unsolicited materials or articles published Meet our Junior Members. Beaded jewellery with Peranakan roots. herein and state that the writers are wholly responsible for the veracity and authenticity of their articles. The Peranakan magazine house style reflects the Baba Malay spelling found in A Baba Malay Dictionary by Baba William Gwee Thian Hock.

ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 2 ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 3 news editor's letter

Baba GT Lye performing dondang sayang at the awards ceremony. To Everything,

PERANAKAN Thereis a DEAR READERS,Season. THEATRE DOYEN This is my hardest letter yet because it is my last. time Illustrator, Nyonya Eileen Chan has faithfully I joined this magazine as assistant editor in brought his characters to life in every issue. WINS 2016 and wrote my first editor’s letter in 2017. Baba Emeric Lau, our Assistant Editor, In the 5 years I have helmed the magazine, has always been of great help to me, and for HERITAGE AWARD it has been a great pleasure to meet contributors this I thank him. His knack for coming up with of diverse backgrounds, all with a common goal catchy headlines and cover lines is truly a gift. - to document and promote Peranakan culture - Read Emeric’s take of Peranakan hygiene habits in Baba GT Lye which is the ethos of this magazine. Coming Clean, page 16. receiving the award from It has been my privilege and joy to edit their These are tough times for print magazines. Edwin Tong, articles. Our editorial team and contributors are Even the most respected titles have gone entirely Minister for all volunteers, myself included, which makes this digital or ceased to exist. So the fact that this Culture, Community magazine all the more special. volunteer-run magazine is still in print, and is and Youth. I read with great fascination, stories about distributed free of charge says something about cultural practices that have disappeared long the dedicated team behind it. before I was born, and how some of them are I am so grateful to my mentors, former NYONYA DAWN ABA GT LYE IS A HOUSEHOLD his field, I approached members of the Peranakan community being revived by a younger generation. Editor Baba Peter Lee and Creative Adviser MARIE LEE NAME in the Peranakan who know him and have worked with him to write letters of It was with deep sadness that I edited Baba John Lee, who have given me invaluable guidance CONGRATULATES community, with presidents support for his nomination. Tan Kuning’s final article for the magazine (Yok in producing the magazine. Many thanks to BABA GT LYE ON B and celebrities among his fans. On 11 Tua: Chinese Medicinal Prescriptions, page 20). our Designer, Nyonya Joanne Low, whose HIS WELL-DESERVED December 2020, his dedication to his Baba Kuning, a long-time contributor of The wonderful graphic work brings all the stories and ACCOLADE craft was publicly recognised when he The Association is deeply grateful and sincerely thanks the Peranakan magazine, passed away at the age of images together like magic. Photos courtesy of the following individuals and our sister associations for their National Heritage Board was honoured by the National Heritage 90 on 11 March 2021. I recall the times that I For me, my role as editor has been all- Board as a Steward of Singapore’s written support of Baba GT’s nomination: visited him and our long chats. He had a wealth consuming. My family can attest to that. Many Intangible Cultural Heritage. BABA COLIN CHEE of knowledge about Peranakan cultural practices. long days and sleepless nights; lugging my laptop The Award, launched in October 2019, aims to recognise for The Peranakan Association Singapore I’m glad that we have documented them through along on family holidays to work on stories for practitioners of intangible cultural heritage (ICH) who are BABA ALVIN TEO his articles. this magazine...something that I don’t even do for dedicated to the promotion and transmission of ICH elements, for Gunong Sayang Association I learnt new things about my own culture my professional work as a copywriter. What can I and have made outstanding contributions in their field. BABA PONNO KALASTREE which I didn’t know about, such as Monkey say? Love is blind. Baba GT has been a wayang Peranakan practitioner for Peranakan Indian (Chitty Melaka) God worship and the Peranakan roots of a little I have always hoped to leave this magazine for 36 years since his first foray into theatre in 1984 in Baba Association Singapore temple in Tiong Bahru. (Serving the Monkey God, better and stronger than when I arrived. My goal was Felix Chia’s Pileh Menantu staged during the Singapore Arts BABA IVAN HENG page 28) As a former Journalist, I’m still thrilled to groom and inspire new writers and nurture in Cultural Medallion recipient, Founder and Festival. The play was a landmark event in wayang Peranakan Artistic Director, W!LD RICE by working the ground, meeting and interviewing them a love and appreciation of Peranakan culture. which sparked a revival of Peranakan theatre. Before that, no people, sharing their stories which have never In this spirit, I leave you with this beautiful BABA ALVIN TAN Peranakan play had been staged in Singapore since 1958. Cultural Medallion recipient, Founder and been told. panton composed by Baba GT Lye: In his next role in 1985, Baba GT played the Peranakan Artistic Director, The Necessary Stage I’ve enjoyed so many moments of laughter Sudah chut mia Gunung Daik, matriarch for the first time – a role which would shape and BABA ROBERT YEO working on hilarious tales with some young Nampak dari tanah di rantau, define his career in Peranakan theatre. The strength of his Award-winning poet, playwright and author, writers. Notably, Baba Bryan Tan whose wit and Kalu sudah benair dia baik, performances stem from his personal experience and careful BBM (Public Service Star) for distinguished wry humour come across in his columns (Pintu Jatoh di laot jadi pulau. performance in the Arts. study of the speech and mannerisms of these matriarchs who Jagong Merah, page 50 and A Widow’s Wrath, BABA PETER LEE Mount Daik is extremely famous, have long since disappeared. Independent researcher and scholar of page 66). I’ve enjoyed plotting incredulous stories It can be seen from overland regionally, Over three decades, he has not only starred in 23 wayang Peranakan culture, Honorary Curator, NUS and fabricating fictitious family trees with Bryan for If the origin is good, the result will be good, Peranakan plays but has also contributed to the art form as a Baba House his long running Chakap Habis column. Our long- If it falls into the sea, it will flourish into an island. scriptwriter, co-director, dialogue coach and mentor to young NYONYA CYNTHIA LEE wayang Peranakan actors. His mastery of the Baba Malay wayang Peranakan performer language is nonpareil. The bulk of his performances were in BABA KELVIN TAN plays staged by the Gunong Sayang Association. There is no wayang Peranakan performer (Female Impersonator) other living wayang Peranakan actor who has displayed the BABA CHAN ENG THAI level of mastery of the art form like Baba GT Lye has. wayang Peranakan performer Baba GT has also brought Peranakan culture abroad BABA RICHARD TAN Arts practitioner and educator, Artistic SCAN THE QR CODE on cultural missions to France, China and Korea. I had the Director, GenerAsia honour of preparing and submitting Baba GT’s nomination TO WATCH NHB’S NYONYA JOSEPHINE CHIA AWARDS VIDEO OF to the National Heritage Board on behalf of The Peranakan BABA GT LYE. award-winning author of eight books, Winner, Editor Association Singapore. Apart from compiling his extensive Singapore Literature Prize (Non-fiction) 2014 [email protected] Marie Lee resume and highlighting his mastery of skills and practice in

ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 4 ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 5 chakap chakap President's Message

Peranakan culture to our children and grandchildren when is a jump of 212 life members during the 19-month period. their minds and hearts are most receptive and welcoming. Junior membership was introduced in September 2019 and Dear Babas and Nyonyas, A living culture has to be lived and transmitted to the by the end of the year we had 19 junior members. Presently, I last shared a roadmap with you in the 2018 Issue 2 of this magazine. next generation to continue. This is what the Association must membership stands at 2,145. set out to do, together with the community rallying around it, In the time since, we elected a new General Committee (GC) with a shared passion, and with our like-minded partners. Our Biggest Fixed Expense in July 2020. And in light of this magazine’s delay, —the Magazine we would like to simply highlight the roadmap until April 2022. Our Identity, We used to spend $60,000 a year on our magazine The Peranakan, which was then a quarterly publication. In 2015, Vision & Mission we pared it down to two issues a year. This halved the cost In this 2020-2022 term, the GC has adopted the slogan, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. Ancestral worship of publication and also allowed the magazine’s all-volunteer “Keeping the Culture Alive”. Keeping the Culture Alive and ritual practices became less important in the home. editorial team to take proper breaks in-between issues. It will steer our vision to unite and represent the The national emphasis on English and Mandarin, Even so, $30,000 is a large annual fixed overhead. Peranakan community in Singapore, to be a beacon of & Peranakan Identity as languages to make a living with, eroded the use of, Fortunately, this cost has been partly covered by our loyal Peranakan culture, and to celebrate the diversity of our The most important challenge facing our Peranakan and need for, Baba Malay - a lyrical creole of Malay and advertisers. We thank them for their steadfastness. Since unique identity, culture and heritage. community today is keeping our culture alive and Hokkien - as our mother tongue. Baba Malay was bypassed 2019 we have also had a generous sponsor for the magazine It will also drive our mission to enrich the lives sustaining it. A critical first step to ensure this is to better as a living language, no longer passed down orally by our to whom we are most grateful. of members, both Peranakan and non-Peranakan, and define our identity. elders. As a result, Peranakans have been shedding their Can such largesse be sustained? We cannot ever do Singapore’s multi-racial community, through diverse We can start by asking ourselves whether we are traditional identity for several decades now. away with The Peranakan magazine. If the Association partnerships and programmes. indeed a distinct community. We ARE Peranakans, right? At last year’s Bicentennial Istana Open House, when is to continue its role as the champion, documenter and No, not officially at least. In the Singapore Population our Association was invited to showcase our culture, we historian of our culture and community, this magazine is Census 2010, under Glossary of Terms and Definitions, we were asked, ”How does one recognise a Peranakan?” our instrument of faith. are buried somewhere under “Chinese” alongside dialect We do not even know how many of us are left in Highlights of the Virtual This is why we will begin to prepare, during this term, the groups including “Hokkien, Teochew, Cantonese, Hakka, Singapore, or anywhere else in Southeast Asia. We do not infrastructure for a fully digital magazine in the event that we Hainanese, Hockchia, Foochow, Henghua, Shanghainese, exist as a statistic. Annual General Meeting have to take this route. etc.” Are we Chinese then? Our forefathers’ evolving culture was an amalgam of in July 2020 Digital Platforms for Timely practices from their homeland, China, and heavily influenced Our Own Census by the cultures of the Malay archipelago - Bugis, Batak, Now at the cusp of a seeming decline in our numbers, we Finance — $43,600 Surplus Communications — Quarter Million Balinese and more - whose women they married or brought should more clearly define our own identity and conduct Views Annually into their households from as far back as the 15th and 16th a census of our own. Technology will enable this. We will For the full year ending 31 December 2019, TPAS turned in centuries. To a lesser extent, there were influences from the embark on this challenge during this term of office. a surplus of $43,600. Membership subscriptions accounted Our Facebook page and website have become our main Indian, Arab, Portuguese, Dutch and British communities What would be the purpose? To give us at least a for a large portion of this surplus. Squirreling small means of communication with members and friends. Our with whom they mingled and did business with. tenuous reference to build on and move forward. surpluses from our various activities and prudent spending website, in particular the magazine archives, is already the Despite these external influences our forefathers saw made up the balance. go-to resource for researchers of Peranakan culture. themselves as essentially ethnic Chinese. To manage our funds prudently, the new GC will decide The aggregate annual viewership of a quarter-million But, culturally, they identified themselves as babas (the Our Culture is Still Alive whether to top up our current fixed deposits to $320,000 is not insignificant. The website attracts a viewership men) and nyonyas (the women). They even took pains to Fortunately, our deep and unique cultural roots, both from the existing $293,0000. We must always ensure our of 45,000 annually, while our FB page attracts 180,000 set themselves apart from the sinkehs – new migrants from tangible and intangible, are mostly still visible and intact. finances are sound. Our strong cash reserves will allow views annually. Our FB post in August 2020 to pre-order Southern China who sailed to Southeast Asia looking for Thankfully, it is in many ways still evolving. adequate working capital to support our many activities. a cookbook attracted a reach of 13,000 in three days. Our work. The babas and nyonyas achieved immense wealth We were given an unexpected lift with the Peranakan President’s Monthly Letter of December 2020 on Peranakan and social standing especially in the British colonies. The Museum’s opening in April 2008 as it sparked a revival of Events — 34 in 22 Months Identity garnered a record 12,000 views. 1820s through to the 1930s were the golden years of Baba interest in the culture. This blossomed We are planning to do more with our digital platforms. Nyonya culture. with the success of a Mandarin In the 22 months we were in office - May 2018 to March 2020 We have started a TPAS YouTube page and encourage you As their culture reached a crescendo, they sought to TV Channel drama serial, - we organised a total of 34 events. Our choir, The Peranakan to sign on as subscribers. It will be activated soon. We are preserve their dominance and exclusivity through carefully The Little Nyonya, in Voices, gave nine performances. targeting 1,000 subscribers and are presently at nearly 900. arranged endogamous marriages. November the same The high points included our inaugural The Baba To reach out to our young, we are actively looking Not surprisingly, the leading babas of the day formed year. In September Nyonya Literary Festival; The Peranakan Identity Forum: at initiating an Instagram platform run by the young for the Straits Chinese British Association (SCBA) on 17 August 2019 we crossed a Who Am I?; our Dalam Dapor Workshop with Nyonya the young. Thank you for your continued support dear 1900 in Singapore to present the community as worthy milestone in our Violet Oon; the return of our afternoon tea dances called members and friends. Stay safe. Kamsiah manyak manyak! subjects of the British Empire. The Peranakan Association history when Joget Siang; our popular topical talks and re-enactments Singapore (TPAS), traces its origin to the SCBA. the Association of key Peranakan practices like semayang abu; and not The Great Recession and the Second World War opened its forgetting our special tie-up with W!ld Rice for Emily of destroyed much of the community’s wealth and influence. doors to our Emerald Hill. Scores of Peranakan scions also lost their lives during the war. anak babas Blessings, After the war, Peranakans started marrying outside of their and nyonyas. Membership — 2,101 Members, network of “approved” families and into other ethnic groups. This Junior Colin Chee With an increasingly Western education, Perakanan Membership Increase of 212 President families became more secular and Christianised, cut category was With higher activity levels, membership grew from 1,889 The Peranakan Association Singapore off from the traditional worship rituals and practices of created to introduce members in May 2018 to 2,101 at end December 2019. This [email protected]

ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 6 ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 7 feature

HE STRAITS CHINESE Colonel William Farquhar, at the behest and associations to represent the up- of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, founder and-coming Straits Chinese bourgeoisie, The members of the first BRITISH ASSOCIATION committee of the Straits Chinese (SCBA) was formed in of Singapore, to help kickstart the and to protect the welfare of the largely British Association, formed on Singapore on 17 August fledgling island-economy of Singapore. uneducated China-born worker classes. 17 August, 1900. Courtesy of National Archives of Singapore. 1900 to represent the social, With their propensity for business With almost a century of economic and political and fluency in languages, these early contribution to society, the Straits Seated left to right: Ho Yiang Moh, Tchan Chun Fook, Tan Chay Yan, interests of some 800 Straits- pioneering Chinese families steadily Chinese were ready to ask for a louder Song Ong Siang, Tan Jiak Kim, Seah born Chinese in the Straits increased their fortunes and gained the voice in the social, economic and Liang Seah, Low Cheang Yee, Wee Kim Yam. Standing left to right: Settlements, and to pledge allegiance to confidence and respect of the British political spheres of colonial Singapore. Seah Eng Kiat, Dr Lim Boon Keng, Queen Victoria, matriarch of the British colonial administration. The Straits One thing led to another. On 17 Chia Keng Chin, Tan Boo Liat, Empire. The Melaka branch was formed Settlements started off in 1826 but the August, 1900, the Straits Chinese British Tan Hap Seng, Wee Theam Tew. t Absent: Seah Peck Seah (Honorary the next month and Penang, 20 years British had earlier flown the Union Jack Association (SCBA) was born with about Treasurer), Gan Gnoh Bee (Penang), later. In its 120 years of history, SCBA in Penang, Melaka and Singapore in 1786, 800 members. It was an elite body tasked Chia Cheng Eok (Penang). has endured the departure of the British 1795 and 1819 respectively. In 1837, some to look after the interests of not just the colonial masters and two world wars of these Straits Chinese were described wealthy Chinese but also the less well- to morph into its present form as The in the Free Press as “the principal off China-born workers. Peranakan Association Singapore. merchants” of the colony. Today's millennials may react Most of the SCBA founders were incredulously to the once-true British descended from Melaka Chinese THE CHINESE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME nationality of their forefathers. In the merchants who were encouraged by Fast forward to the 1890s, the golden age colonial milieu, the babas were indeed of the babas. It was when the designation British subjects born in the Straits “British Chinese” appeared. But the babas Settlements which lasted till 1946. In were quick to realise that within the 1963, with the merger of Singapore colonial configuration, they would at best and Malaysia, the SCBA dropped the OUNDING be seated at the furthest table during a “British” to become the Singapore fancy British ball or other social events. Chinese Peranakan Association. In Starting from the mid-1850s, August 1965, Singapore separated from OREFATHERS merchants like Whampoa Hoo Ah Kay, Malaysia to become an independent Tan Kim Ching and Seah Eu Chin would sovereign state and in February 1966, the IN THE 120TH YEAR OF represent the Straits Chinese crème de association was renamed The Peranakan THE FOUNDING OF THE la crème. By the 1890s, Tan Jiak Kim and Association Singapore. PERANAKAN ASSOCIATION Seah Liang Seah had become legislators SINGAPORE, SIBLINGS and municipal commissioners. The mood NYONYA LINDA CHEE AND BABA RONNEY TAN KOON within the Chinese upper class was to SIANG OPEN A WINDOW agitate for more “benefits” in colonial TO THE FOUNDING OF THE Singapore. While the Straits Chinese STRAITS CHINESE BRITISH mostly remained loyal to the British ASSOCIATION crown, there were others who supported the Ching court in China. From 1877 onwards, some bought fancy titles and

Was this Union Jack-like motif wore elaborate Manchu costumes. THE the original brand of the SCBA? The more strait-laced English- TOWCHANG Seen here with committee educated Chinese thought they should CONUNDRUM member Tchan Chun Fook, as featured in the book “One have their own sports or social clubs Hundred Years of the Chinese The Ching Dynasty from 1644 to 1912 in Singapore” by Song Ong saw the Han Chinese subjugated by Siang. Public domain. the Manchus, who compelled them to plait their hair long in a queue, known as the towchang. Unwittingly, the conquered mistook the towchang as iconic of their Chinese identity. The towchang prevailed until the fall of the Ching Dynasty, after which the National Assembly of the Chinese Republican government decreed that Chinese all over the world be obliged to cut off their towchang. • But even before the Nationalist decree, two prominent young Straits Chinese – Song Ong Siang and Lim Boon Keng - had done away with their queues in 1899 in a dismissal of the derisory “pigtail”. Lim Boon Keng had condemned the towchang as “inconvenient and useless”. This incensed the founding president of SCBA, Tan Jiak Kim, who opposed the two young upstarts on this 'hairy' issue. Believing in the towchang, he steadfastly The visit of TRH the Duke and Duchess of York in 1901 was commemorated by a specially-built SCBA Pagoda on held on to his prominent coiffure till his the old gaol site opposite the former St Joseph's Institution. dying day in 1917. Courtesy of the National Museum of Singapore, National Heritage Board. Note: The original photograph has been cropped for this article. ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 8 f ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 9 feature THE FIRST COMMITTEE OF THE STRAITS CHINESE BRITISH ASSOCIATION

TCHAN CHUN FOOK He was manager of Whampoa & Co for 40 HO YIANG MOH years before starting his own business. With his The cashier with the Chartered Bank is engaging personality and sense of humour, he was TAN CHAY YAN remembered for his sharp eye for detecting popular socially. He was a Justice of the Peace The grandson of Tan Tock Seng, he was born forged $500 bank notes in 1877. He was active who believed in “the study of the spiritual world”. wealthy and pioneered the commercial planting in the Straits Chinese Recreation Club and the of rubber. His efforts boosted the economies of Celestial Reasoning Association which promoted the Straits Settlements especially Singapore and TAN JIAK KIM the mastery of the English language through Melaka. He had earlier been encouraged by Lim The son of Tan Beng Swee and grandson of Tan Kim Seng, he debating and literary study. Boon Keng to use the free rubber seeds given was the scion of a distinguished Melaka family who carried out by Henry Ridley, director of the Botanical Gardens. He worked tirelessly to roll out the on the family tradition of public service, philanthropy and first rubber sheet in 1904. By 1907, the mass business. He was an outstanding community leader who production of the Ford Model T vehicle created answered the call to duty as a legislator and municipal SEAH LIANG SEAH a huge demand for rubber tyres. In 1916, he commissioner. Tan Jiak Kim spoke up for the rights of low died suddenly, leaving a huge fortune to his wife The second son of tycoon Seah Eu Chin, he made his fortune Chua Wan Neo. She delegated the running wage earners as well as the needs of the Chinese community, in gambier planting and commercial trading. Seah Liang Seah CHIA KENG CHIN of the rubber estates to Ronney's and Linda's be it the Straits-born or the China-born Chinese. He was prominent as a legislator and municipal commissioner. great-grandfather Tan Jin Ann till his retirement fought for the retention of the Queen's scholarship and set Educated at St Joseph's Institution, he donated generously to A nephew of Chia Ann Siang, he joined Ann Lock in 1934. up educational scholarships for locals. He and Seah Liang & Co as a merchant after his two uncles passed many causes including 400 silver taels to a drought relief fund on. He was a founder of the Straits Chinese Seah raised funds to set up the King Edward VII College of in China and the British war fund. He had three wives and 12 Recreation Club and a municipal commissioner. Medicine in Singapore. A loyal British subject, he contributed children. His three brothers, including Seah Peck Seah, also TAN HAP SENG He was fortunate to be part of the Singapore liberally to the war funds, including $37,000 (about $683,500 distinguished themselves in business and social circles. Four delegation that attended the coronation of King The eldest grandson of shipping tycoon Tan Kim Edward VII in 1901. in 2021) for the Prince of Wales Relief Fund and $19,200 to streets in Singapore are named after this famous Teochew family. Tian, he was brought up in the lap of luxury. After buy a fighter plane for Britain's battle with Germany. taking over the mantle of the family shipping business from his cousin Tan Beng Wan, Hap Seng managed one of Singapore's largest shipping companies. But his inexperience in business and inability in the Chinese language led to a poorly- judged deal. Overnight, the company collapsed in debt. He remained an undischarged bankrupt for 26 years. Once the toast of high society, he died SEAH ENG KIAT without any fanfare in 1934. Grandson of Seah Eu Chin. He was a director of the Singapore United Rubber Plantations Limited WEE KIM YAM formed in 1916. He loved horse racing. A son of Wee Ah Hood, he was an opium and spirit farmer in the 1880s. He was appointed a Justice of the Peace and was active in public affairs, serving zealously on the committee of Tan Tock Seng Hospital. DR LIM BOON KENG He won the Queens Scholarship in 1887 to study medicine at Edinburgh University. There, he was asked to read a Chinese banner. Ashamed of being unable to read Chinese, SONG ONG SIANG he pledged to read and write Chinese and became more WEE THEAM TEW TAN BOO LIAT The son of Song Hoot Kiam, an early Singapore Chinese Chinese than the Chinese. He even organised Mandarin A high-flying lawyer whose fortunes turned south A nephew of Tan Chay Yan and great grandson Christian, he agitated for social reforms together with his night classes for whoever wished to learn the language. Dr after he was jailed for misappropriating a client's of Tan Tock Seng, he was the last Straits Chinese good friend, fellow Queens Scholar Dr Lim Boon Keng. Lim wrote books, practised medicine, became a legislator, funds. He died a broken man in an asylum in 1918. head of the Hokkien Huay Kuan. A man of His family library provided reading material for the diverse interests, he was well known in racing They both studied at Raffles Institution and founded the co-founded the Straits Chinese Magazine and was the younger Lim Boon Keng. Theam Tew himself was LOW CHEANG YEE circles for his cup-winning horse, Vanitas, in Singapore Chinese Girls' School in 1899 in a building next first Chancellor of Xiamen University. With his extensive fortunate to study law in England with the help His father came from China and built a business 1898. The prize money: 100,000 Straits dollars. to the present Central Fire Station at Hill Street. Song Ong connections to the colonial masters, the Chinese Republican of Gan Eng Seng's sponsorship. Although he went dealing with gutta percha and other produce. His illustrious grandfather, Tan Kim Ching, was Siang also edited the huge tome “One Hundred Years of government and the Singapore merchants, the social down the slippery slope, his nieces, the daughters He schooled at Raffles Institution where his anointed with ministerial status by King Mongkut of his banker brother Wee Thiam Seng, married schoolmate, Lim Thean Geow, was Lim Boon of Thailand. His daughter Polly Tan was the the Chinese in Singapore” which is still used today as the reformist was very busy connecting many dots and rendered well. One of them married Tan Chin Tuan, long- Keng's father. Like Seah Liang Seah, he was a inspiration behind the play Emily of Emerald Hill. standard reference text on the history of the Chinese in service in many societies beyond the call of duty. He time chairman of OCBC Bank. Another became prominent Teochew merchant much respected by Tan Boo Liat was a strong supporter of Sun Yat Singapore up to 1919. remained modest and never took a leadership role. the mother-in-law of Lee Kuan Yew. European merchants. Sen, considered the father of modern China.

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his ancestors. He The Seah family played such who was a consummate diplomat.” felt the portrait prominent roles in Singapore society Bilingual in English and Chinese, TAN was that reminder SEAH that many streets were named after he organised many “prominent and “looking down on them: Seah Street, Liang Seah Street, well-attended wedding parties” (as he all of us.” Peck Seah Street and Eu Chin Street, had six sons and six daughters from JIAK “I had never LIANG named after their father, Seah Eu Chin. three wives) where bands and wayang met the man. This was a fact that fascinated Shawn Peranakan entertainment were standard What I know of since he was young. fare. The ostentatious display seemed KIM him is through SEAH “My father, Simon, would never-ending. Seah Liang Seah hosted A MAN FOR THE PEOPLE my father, Tan KING OF THE STREETS occasionally talk with much passion royalty in his magnificent home called Eng Chiang, who about the prominent pioneers we were Bendemeer House. It had a huge was told by my descended from. This inspired me to find ballroom, a four-storey tower and grandfather, Tan out more about them.” His aunt Florence sweeping grounds. Shawn elaborated: Soo Bin,” who was also regaled him with stories about “He would have driving competitions, the only surviving the famous Seah brothers. Shawn was miniature rifle-shooting, and guessing son of Tan Jiak intrigued by, as he describes, Liang Seah's games with one person whistling a tune Kim. Richard is “most unusual will” after he passed on with a biscuit in his mouth while his “extremely proud” in 1925. It stipulated that his estate could hapless teammates would be trying to of his kong cho. only be distributed 21 years after the figure out what the tune was. He also “He was a man for the people, serving Tan Jiak Kim with his third wife, Ang Geok Lan, and death of King George V's last surviving sported clock golf, croquet, driving grandsons Tan Eng Chiang (right) and Tan Eng Wan (left). in the public domain with absolute faith child. In 1996, 71 years after his death, competitions and even a merry-go- and conviction to bring betterment to have none of it. He was proud of his Liang Seah's estate with a value of about round once!” the ordinary man in the street.” It was queue and kept it to his grave.” This fact $13 million was finally distributed. Notwithstanding his vast wealth, befitting that he became the founding was confirmed in print by Richard's older Shawn's curiosity about his the St Joseph's Institution alumnus was president of the Straits Chinese British brother, the late Tan Tiang Leong. While forefathers led to a decade of research far from being a feckless degenerate. He Association (SCBA). Song Ong Siang and Lim Boon Keng in earnest. “I found out most of the was a high-ranking community leader Tan Jiak Kim cared deeply for the advocated the change to Western suit, Tan significant and comprehensive details on who was well respected by both the Chinese community. He agitated for Jiak Kim refused to yield and wore the my own.” These uncovered facets of a British and Chinese. He gave generously the installation of water standpipes for Chinese costume until he died in 1917. lavish, extravagant lifestyle. to charitable causes. rickshaw pullers to cool themselves after In the era of arranged marriages, Both brothers were Anglophiles Inspired by his forefathers, Shawn every run. After the Second World War, he dutifully married Ang Geok Hoe and loved parties. Shawn discovered has published three local history books these rickshaws were phased out by 1947. when he was 19 years old. After she NYONYA LINDA CHEE DISCOVERS Liang Seah to be “a colourful character since 2017. These are titled, Seah Eu In social reform, Tan Jiak Kim was died at childbirth, he remarried her FROM BABA SHAWN SEAH THE 'CRAZY Chin: His Life and Times; Leader and strong on abolishing opium and was the sister, Ang Geok Hean. They sailed to RICH BABAS' OF YESTERYEAR. Legislator: Seah Liang Seah; and My Photographs courtesy of Shawn Seah and the Seah family only Asian on an all-colonial panel in 1908, England in 1911 to attend King George unless otherwise stated. Father's Kampung: A History of Aukang when the Anti-Opium Commission was V's coronation, but she died during the and Punggol, published in 2020. formed. Yet he was reluctant to contribute visit. He remarried another sister, Ang The Seahs meet at a Singapore to education for women. Like Seah Liang Geok Lan, who eventually outlived OUR GENERATIONS AGO, Seah Clan Association, of which he is BABA RICHARD TAN TIANG TECK Seah, he was very traditional; boys came him. Marrying the sister of the deceased LIFE WAS MUCH DAZZLE an Executive Committee member and REMEMBERS HIS GREAT GRANDFATHER, AS first. He was constantly at odds with “the spouse was a traditional practice known and spectacle with the Seah also the head of their youth group, or TOLD TO BABA RONNEY TAN KOON young reformers,” Song Ong Siang and as “tukar tikar”, literally meaning brothers, Liang Seah and qing nian tuan. The Association has an SIANG. Photographs courtesy of the National Museum of Lim Boon Keng, who were the prime changing the floor mat! Peck Seah. They were, as annual gathering. There is also an active Singapore, National Heritage Board. movers for opening up education to girls. “He was a traditional man with Fresearched by descendant Shawn Seah, Facebook group Richard remembers his great- traditional ideas on how a Straits-born “incredibly wealthy business people who online called ICHARD REMEMBERS grandfather as a devoted family man Chinese baba should conduct himself. lived at Orchard Road and Boat Quay, in Seah Eu Chin HIS GROWING UP YEARS. imbued with traditional Chinese Exactly as any nyonya mother would beautiful houses surrounded by flowers.” Descendants. “I love A huge portrait of Tan Jiak values. Yet he was also pro-British and pesan or instruct: senonoh, ada adat (well- Shawn, 34, is the great-great- this online group, Kim hung prominently in spoke fluent English, Baba Malay and behaved and polite),” remembers Richard. grandnephew of Seah Liang Seah, a co- because I am able the living room of Panglima Hokkien. On hindsight, Tan Jiak Kim Richard has followed in the family founder and vice-president of the Straits to communicate RPrang (meaning “war admiral”), the huge was caught in the transitory phase of tradition of public service, contributing Chinese British Association (SCBA), and with many people house that Richard's great-great-great the Straits-born Chinese, in adapting many years of time, effort and money to the great-great-grandson of Seah Peck who are interested grandfather, Tan Kim Seng, built in the from traditional customs to the modern various charitable projects. His “proudest Seah, the SCBA honorary treasurer. in searching for 1850s. Six generations lived in the house. European-influenced era of the 20th moment” was on being conferred the Upon Liang Seah's death, he their roots.” The airy 10.5-acre estate had many fruit century. Unlike his cousin Tan Boo Liat Pingat Bakti Masyarakat (PBM) by then- reportedly left behind real estate “I have trees of rambutans, durians and mango. who supported Sun Yat Sen, Tan Jiak President Wee Kim Wee in 1990. He is consisting of 87 acres of land in gathered digitally A landmark colonial-styled house along Kim focused his allegiance to Queen presently the Chairman of Pelangi Home. Serangoon Road; 84 acres of rubber along with many River Valley Road, it was torn down in Victoria and later, King Edward VII and I asked Richard whether he would land at Thomson Road; seven houses in members of 1983 to make way for a condominium, then King George V. pass down to his two grandchildren, North Bridge Road; two houses on North my extended Yong Ann Park. Richard, 79, is modest Acknowledging his stellar aged five and seven, the stories his Boat Quay; one house in River Valley family. Through about being the descendant of very contributions to the community, the father told him. “I will, but will tell Road; his sons' properties consisting of these offline and wealthy forebears. “We still worked for British colonial government awarded much more when they are a bit older,” 230 acres of land off East Coast Road online activities, a living”, Richard remarks, adding that Tan Jiak Kim the Companion of the Most he smiles warmly. In the evening of his Top: Carte-de-visite of all the way to I am constantly growing up in the house was “a constant Distinguished Order of St Michael and St life, as he takes walks at the Botanic Seah Liang Seah Courtesy Bedok; and other reminded that I reminder of the George (CMG) in 1912. Gardens, he is comforted by memories of Asian Civilisations lands scattered Top: The Seahs were fabulously wealthy. Shown here is the have a family and it helps me remember Top: Portrait of Tan Jiak Kim Museum. Collection of the entrance to the palatial home of Seah Eng Kwang, son of with the CMG medal, as huge heritage and “One of the SCBA's reforms in 1900 of the “luxuriant foliage and fresh air of Peranakan Museum. Gift throughout Seah Peck Seah. Bottom: The front gate to the residence of my roots: Where I came from, and who I painted by Low Kway Soo. contributions” of was to abolish the queue, but he would Panglima Prang.” of Mr and Mrs Lee Kip Lee Singapore. Seah Eng Kwang. am,” says Shawn on a thankful note.

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director of the now-defunct Asia The “prominent bigwig and DR rooms and was one of the last mansion- remembers Kok Lian. “While happily Commercial Banking Corporation, successful lawyer” invested in several sized wood-and-attap houses dating back fueled by the rounds of 'yam seng' SONG through his high standards of integrity.” properties in Orchard Road. One of LIM to the 1860s. “My most vivid memory is at banquets, grandpa was also prone Dr Chew had told Patricia that while them was 400 Orchard Road, a rambling seeing him on his plantation lounge chair to engage in his favorite mode of some of his peers were corrupt and bungalow on spacious grounds near the with book and cigar at hand.” humour, where he would pun in several ONG accepted bribes from bank customers Thai Embassy, which has since been sold BOON As he became less agile with age, languages. One of his oft-repeated puns to enrich themselves unjustly, he would and redeveloped as Orchard Towers. “it was my job to escort him down the was the Japanese word 'arigato' (thank not stoop to do the same. Patricia is “It was big enough to accommodate my stairs to make sure he didn't fall down.” you) which he would twist into the SIANG especially proud of her granduncle's grandparents, my mother and her nine KENG Kok Lian would also accompany him in Hokkien 'giah ee giah toh' (carry chair, OF INTEGRITY AND DUTY legacy of empowering Straits-born other siblings gratis. My grandparents THE SOCIAL REFORMER his humpback 1940s Dodge, driven by carry table). In his darker moods, his females to be educated by co-founding at that time didn't own any properties a Malay chauffeur, to spend time at the intoxicated rants would run into phrases the Singapore Chinese Girls' School. Sir and had many mouths to feed.” Beatrice City Club on Cecil Street or the Ee Ho such as 'goa ai si, buay si' (want to die Song and his wife, Lady Helen Song, often crossed the road from her home to Hean Club at Bukit Pasoh Road. “My but cannot die).” In more cheerful times, adopted two daughters, Lily Nancy visit her uncle and aunt, and they would job, as grandma insisted, was to place my he said it was strange that the Hokkien who remained single, and Darling, who give her sweets or fruits. hand over his head as he either entered or word for equines was “horse” but married but died leaving no issue. “My mother would say that although emerged so that he would not scrape or “tiger” in Hokkien is “hor[se]. he went out dressed like a quintessential bump his somewhat thinly covered pate.” Comparing notes on play rituals Left: Portrait of Song Englishman or 'the King's Chinese', at In the 1950s, the “old man in a white with his niece, Stella Kon, and the Ong Siang, knighted in 1936, as painted by Julius suit”, would go for one of his favourite others, Kok Lian recalls “grandpa's Wentscher. Courtesy of walks aided either by his walking stick usual attempts at friendliness to the very the National Museum or “wobbling rather dangerously while young was to slip one of his cigar rings of Singapore, National Heritage Board. crossing the road” to visit his neighbour, onto the finger of whichever child he Dr Hu Tsai Kuen, at 2 Paterson Hill. happened to encounter.” Right: Song Ong Joo, his Dr Lim often stayed the afternoon till When Kok Lian reached adulthood, wife Lim Hean Neo and their brood of 10 children dinnertime and the two men “apparently he realised his famous grandpa “was far lived in a bungalow shared much in common” even though from wealthy”. After leaving Xiamen owned by his elder Dr Hu was nearly 30 years Dr Lim's and bequeathing their beautiful home brother, Song Ong Siang, at 400 Orchard Road, BABA LIM KOK LIAN* HAS FOND MEMORIES OF junior. “It was also likely that his on Gulang Su to Xiamen University, Dr where Orchard Towers HIS GRANDFATHER, AS TOLD TO NYONYAS neighbour was more liberal with the beer Lim returned to Singapore financially now stands. Note the PAT LIN** IN CALIFORNIA AND LINDA CHEE interesting toys that the than what grandma permitted at home.” depleted and homeless, impacted by the IN SINGAPORE Black-and-white photographs by courtesy of children played with and Many years later, Dr Hu's family would Depression and World War Two. “The Lim Kok Lian. the close resemblance of be immortalized in the movie, 'Crazy Song Ong Joo to his brother. Rich Asians'. R LIM BOON KENG LED At meals, grandpa “fidgeted CHILDREN'S BOOK AUTHOR NYONYA A REMARKABLE LIFE frequently with his ill-fitting dentures”, PATRICIA CHEW SPEAKS WITH NYONYA amidst the turmoil of his which fascinated Kok Lian as “both LINDA CHEE ON THE PROFOUND INFLUENCE generation. He was also upper and lower sets of teeth would OF HER ILLUSTRIOUS GRAND UNCLE, BABA bountifully blessed. When be removed and sat alongside him SONG ONG SIANG he drew his last breath on 1 January, throughout the meals. All meals were Left: Song Ong D All photographs courtesy of Patricia Chew unless otherwise stated. 1957 at the age of 88, he left behind seven Siang and his wife, also not complete without his favourite Helen, adopted home he would be at ease wearing a children, 30 grandchildren, and numerous side of chili belachan.” great name is more desirable two daughters, simple sarong and shirt just as any other great- and great-great-grandchildren. The cigar-smoking Baba enjoyed named Lily Nancy than great riches, to be baba. That completely floored me! I Eleven of his progeny became his shot of Johnny Walker whisky every esteemed is better than silver and Darling (left). suppose it destroyed my perceptions of medical doctors. They include Dr Lim Kok night “for medicinal purposes” and or gold. an old Chinese gentleman perpetually Kian, Kok Lian’s elder brother - both are would return home “from banquets Dr Lim surrounded by his family in mourning. His widow — Proverbs 22:1 Grace Yin looks on, at the head of the coffin. having tea at home, and dressed to the the sons of ace racing car driver Lim Peng guided by an obviously irate grandma, THISA BIBLE PASSAGE WAS QUOTED nines,” says a bemused Patricia. Han, whose mother was Dr Lim Boon loudly singing, and shakily going somewhat shabby old mansion grandpa often by Sir Song Ong Siang, as related Patricia's late mother said Sir Song Sir Song died about six months Keng's second wife, Grace Yin Pek Ha. upstairs on none too steady legs,” lived in on Paterson Hill was afforded to by his niece, Beatrice Song, who brought was a quiet person, and would frequently before the outbreak of Second World Growing up, Kok Lian, 78, was him through an old friendship with the up her daughter, Patricia Chew, with pore over legal documents, working War in Feb 15, 1942. He was given a gun “very conscious” of his grandfather's Tan Chay Yan family, whom grandpa had stories of the illustrious Christian lawyer. right into the night. The pace increased salute. “My mother said that his widow fame and accomplishments. “Being his helped in the rubber industry.” The first Malayan Chinese to be knighted when he edited the seminal tome, 'One Lady Song fainted several times during grandson often placed me in the situation Dr Lim became much of a recluse in by the British, Sir Song was a brilliant Hundred Years' History of the Chinese in the funeral.” of being in a fish bowl - watched his august years. Towards the end of 1956, lawyer who started a legal practice with Singapore'. “However, he was just at ease From the wealth of information constantly for any signs of not living up he fell very ill. Cancer was suspected. On his classmate, James Aitken, calling it going out to parties, where he had a large on him that was fondly shared by her to the standards set by the great man New Year's Day, he passed on. Aitken & Ong Siang. network of friends. Apparently, both he parents, Patricia was inspired to become who was both a prominent civic leader A huge crowd attended Dr Lim's “I didn't hear much about his and my grand aunt liked dancing.” a lawyer. “A seed was planted in me and a polymath.” Family and teachers burial in Bidadari Cemetery. Kok Lian says business acumen, but rather the A Queen's Scholar, Sir Song was from the time I was about 12 years old.” “would frequently admonish me to live in reflection that his grandpa “had lived integrity in which he conducted himself not proud and did not look down on Sir Song's exemplary life continues to up to some of these abilities whenever across two centuries and by the sheer force and his very good command of the his siblings. “My granduncle was a impact Patricia even now. It inspired I fell short of expectations”. Kok Lian's of his activism and personality, he had English language, such that people would generous and dutiful brother to them,” her to write “Tony Tapir and most memorable childhood days were changed the lives of many as well as the Friends”, a series of go to him to get their legal documents says Patricia with much admiration. He Patricia spent with his grandparents over course of history in no small ways.” drafted,” says Patricia, whose supported his unmarried sisters, Song four children's books Chew and her weekends and school holidays in their grandfather was Sir Song's younger Boey Neo and Song Pean Neo. He also that she authored late mother, two-storey home, Beatrice Song. brother, Song Ong Joo. employed Patricia's grandfather to work to emphasise Top: Portrait of Dr Lim set on two acres of Dr Lim Boon Keng and his grandchildren at his estate. *LIM KOK LIAN WAS THE HEAD ADMINISTRATOR OF THE KAISER “He also impacted me and my late in his law firm, copying out indentures the importance Boon Keng. Courtesy of land at 1, Paterson Lim Kok Lian is the toddler in white overalls, second PERMANENTE MEDICAL CENTER IN RIVERSIDE BEFORE HE RETIRED the National Museum IN 2009. **PAT LIN IS PROFESSOR EMERITUS, GENDER, ETHNICITY of integrity in from left. The other children are, from left, his cousin, AND MULTICULTURAL STUDIES AT CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY, father, Commendatore Dr David Chew, for conveyancing because he had of Singapore, National Hill. It had 7,000 Dawn Teh, his brother, Dr Lim Kok Kian, and Dawn's POMONA. BOTH ARE BASED IN CALIFORNIA. who was previously the managing beautiful writing. leadership. Heritage Board. sq feet of rambling brother, Teh Ee Keng, a Queen's Scholar.

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INSPIRED BY THE PANDEMONIUM OF THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC, BABA EMERIC LAU EXPLORES THE HISTORY, HABITS AND HYSTERIA OF PERANAKANS' COMING CLEAN HYGIENE PRACTICES he typical bibik is fastidious about cleanliness, and my grandmother was Pears' Soap was promoted as “brightening the dark corners of the NOURISHMENT no exception. “Cuci berrr-sssih! (Wash thoroughly!)” she would exhort our earth as civilization advances, whilst helper; “Mesti pakai Brrrassso!” (Must use Brasso!) she exclaimed if she saw amongst the cultured of all nations it holds the highest place…” the slightest tarnish on a brass object or bit of chrome hardware. As a result, Many Peranakans, modeling TI associate trilling r's and hissing s's with a frenzied hubbub of scrubbing, polishing themselves as the King's Chinese, were quick to convert to Christianity. and washing. How did our fanatical devotion to always shining like freshly minted Their desire to differentiate themselves coins come about? from the sinkeh or new Chinese migrants drove them to adopt upper class European practices, including CLASS & COLONIALISM maintaining a state of exemplary Let's turn back the clock to the 17th and 18th cleanliness in both body and home. centuries when the first Europeans arrived Soaps, detergents, perfumes and other Some common ingredients used in rempah include Top: Mortar and pestle used for pounding the rempah. candlenut, garlic and chillies. Bottom: A ceramic Tong Luda or spittoon. Collection of in tropical Southeast Asia. At the time, cleanliness-related sundries were all the Asian Civilisations Museum. Nyonyas used two types the concept of bathing was rather alien to incorporated into an already syncretic REMPAH of spittoons. The first type, like this piece, was tall with westerners, and Dutch historian De Haan and holistic Asian culture of general a flared mouth and foot that resembled the archaic 'gu'- A diet rich in antioxidants and shaped vases used on altars in China. They were placed on noted a high degree of “hydrophobia” immunity boosting ingredients can the floor and within the washstands in bridal chambers. that lasted at least one generation, before help ward off diseases. It was reported The second type was the jar-shaped table spittoons of the new arrivals took to immersing various sizes, which were more portable and shared that none of the Indians who were between nyonyas at social gatherings. themselves in the manner of the locals at evacuated from Wuhan were the nearest convenient riverside pool. found to have contracted Describing life in Batavia in the Covid-19. The Indian diet middle of the 18th century, he writes of curries and spicy foods that both Dutchmen and the Portuguese may have something to do detested bathing. They left this to the with robustness - high levels of ladies, who were of local or mixed turmeric, galangal, garlic, onions descent. Jean Gelman Taylor also notes and chilis. The same ingredients are that European men in Batavia “refused found in nyonya rempahs. The humble to adapt to the Asian custom of frequent tapioca is known to help guard against bathing”. Instead, the Europeans simply stomach cancer, while ginger helps to donned clean clothes regularly. ward off “heatiness”, and is easy to The founder of modern Singapore, include whether cooking chicken, pork Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, praised or fish dishes. Be careful though, the Javanese for their cleanliness and as ginger may induce flatulence, meticulous care of physical hygiene. The causing one to “break wind” as a Buah Lerak, or soapberry, a natural detergent. Photo by Dawn Marie Lee. common Javanese who bathed, Raffles result of “beating wind”! wrote, once a day or once in two or three wellbeing that encompassed one's health days were “more clean than the Chinese (both corporeal and spiritual), hygiene, SIREH and even the European”. housekeeping and happiness. The practice of chewing sireh With advances in science and At this juncture, we should mention (betel leaves and areca nut) medicine over the 19th and early 20th the buah lerak (soapberry). Its husk was once a ubiquitous habit of century, washing, especially with contains pure saponin, a gentle soaping the nyonyas. Aside from being a soap, became regarded by the Western agent. This natural detergent is softer on mild hallucinogenic, betel leaves do world as a marker of civilisation. When fabrics than synthetic soap, penetrating bring some health benefits. They are exported to the colonies, using soap cloth softly to tease out dirt, making it believed to reduce the level of sugar Photo: Wikimedia Commons. "made natives white" in a metaphorical a favourite of bibiks who use it on their in the blood, thus treating diabetes; sense. By the same token, the "unwashed delicates and coloured kain. Native to they reduce body fat by increasing masses" reeked with bodily odours South and East Asia, natural saponin is the metabolic rate; and they whereas the nobility was portrayed as eco-friendly and totally hypoallergenic, inhibit carcinogens that cause freshly scented. Missionary Christians meaning it won't irritate sensitive skin. oral cancer by maintaining the invested their congregations with the In a 21st century reversal, the Western levels of ascorbic acid in saliva. idea that the cleaner or purer one was, world has cottoned on to the benefits of When applied externally, the the closer to God, giving rise to the the soapberry, packaging it as an organic leaves help to heal wounds and

phrase “cleanliness is next to godliness”. Pears Soap advertisement, 1890. laundry detergent! provide relief from headaches.

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BATHING & yield both physical and would they escape rebuke should the millennia in many societies, and have wiping be deemed unsatisfactory: "Apsal proven medicinal benefits. They are CLEANSING WOMEN'S MATTERS psychological benefits, lu mia kain lap macham tok po?” (Why is known to kill harmful bacteria, mould Traditionally, the right hand is used to Life in a kampong was not all hardscrabble. The women enhancing one's recovery. your wiping done as though with a mat and parasites, and purify the air. If bring food to one's mouth, whereas the (i.e., non-absorbent rag)?) ingested, they have antiseptic, anti- left hand is applied to “the other end”, would seek regular massages from a makchik masseur, While household chores inflammatory and analgesic properties. that is, for washing one's backside (cebok). and such sessions included various herbal remedies and demand meticulous attention, they Often done on Malam Jumaat (Thursday Wiping down with toilet paper just can't are supplemented by a myriad of nights) when spiritual presences are beat a refreshing rinse. The phrase “cebok compresses to pukol angin (rid one of flatulence), address FEELING apparently superstitious practices. believed to be strongest, Asap rumah pantat tak habis” which means “incessant perot sakit (stomachache), cramps and other discomforts. NAUSEATED? Keeping dirt at bay also includes is adapted from the sinicized Malay bum washing”, is a crude way to TRY SNIFFING A FEW identifying and ridding one's home of practice of keramat (shrines to holy men) commiserate that one's chores are never- Pregnancy requires particular care. Hormone changes DROPS OF MINYAK bad energies and evil spirits. worshipping, also known to the Chinese ending. Hence, the hands are indelibly can be erratic, causing KAPAK ON A 20 CENT- A simple method to purge negative as Datok Kong, a ritual that was once associated with opposite ends of the COIN ENCLOSED vibes is to slice onions into halves and common all around the Malacca Straits. WITHIN A KNOTTED human body: the mouth and derriere. perspiration or dry skin. place them at various parts of the house. When attending a wake or funeral, Across cultures, bathing or immersing Good hygiene practices HANDKERCHIEF. The onions will “absorb” undesirable one should soak a few stalks of daon in water is regarded as an act of physical elements, turning black after some time, delima (pomegranate leaves) in a small and spiritual cleansing, from the rite of minimise the risk of and can then be discarded. However, if pail of water, and place it outside the Baptism in Christianity to the practice of infections. Ladies may apply the onions turn black in under 48 hours, home. Upon returning, douse the face mandi lulur (bathing with fragrant flower it is a sure sign of the presence of evil and hands with this water prior to petals) in Indonesia. The latter includes bedak sejuk immediately spirits, which may warrant a medium's crossing one's threshold. This act will a ritual of scrubbing the body with a after showering to keep services! Some Malays use buah kundo vanquish any unwanted spirits that may paste of purifying herbs and spices like (wintermelon) in a similar fashion: the have latched onto the attractive aura of turmeric, rice, ginger and cumin. Once their skin soft and supple. A reserved for royal brides, mandi lulur has study in 2016 found a high been adapted as a part of contemporary spa treatments all over Southeast Asia. concentration of phenolics in Some also believe that it helps to rid the the rice powder, which are body of spiritual possession. a source of antioxidants, are Bedak Sejuk is a fermented rice based powder that was popular with nyonyas of the past. It is still produced today anti-inflammatory and are in parts of Malaysia. easily absorbed into the skin. The Asian practice of

confinement helps the body A popular brand of minyak kapak commonly found in recuperate and recover Singapore and Malaysia. from childbirth. This PERSONAL typically includes staying Mandi lulur – a ritual flower bath.Photo: Unsplash indoors for 30 days, along WELLNESS These are countless, ranging from the In everyday life, grandmothers often pragmatic to idiosyncratic. Feeling espouse that the outdoors is full of kuman with consuming foods to nauseated? Try sniffing a few drops of and jangkit or germs and infections, and purge “wind” and promote minyak kapak on a 20 cent-coin enclosed they will insist that young children take a blood circulation for within a knotted handkerchief. bath upon returning home: “Gosok betol- Stay clean in both body and soul betol, ayer sama sabun. (Scrub up properly, increased strength. There with the simple practice of cuci kaki using water and soap.)” And don't even is usually no washing of (washing one's feet) before turning in for think of sitting on the bed in one's street the night. This stops malevolent spirits clothes. Their “anti-bacterial” finishing the hair or body, although sharing the bed. Even better, one should touch would often be a liberal splash of some do practice bathing in cuci kaki upon arriving home. 4711 Cologne. heated water with herbs; it Bengkung - The traditional way a postpartum belly is bound. Kemenyan for smoking the house. Photo by Colin Chee. is a must to avoid contact DOMESTIC with anything cold. All movement is to be minimised, fruit is sliced into halves and placed on the living persons at the scene of sadness PRACTICES floor at the four corners of room. If it rots and vulnerability. with bed rest being the ideal way to pass one's time. Separate dishcloths should be used quickly, then the house may be hosting a Let us apply our wealth of During both pre and post-natal phases, the new when wiping surfaces that could be malevolent presence or else someone has knowledge towards wholesome lifestyles oily, like the kitchen and dining tables; placed a hex on the premises. and staying in the pink of health - badan mother may opt to have Jamu massages. After delivering, and non-oily ones, like coffee tables and There is also the cleansing ritual kuat kuat! some women engage in belly binding or bengkung. A long study desks. called asap rumah or smoking the house Woe betide the ignorant helper with incense (kemenyan) which may strip of cloth is wound and secured tightly around the or daughter-in-law who doesn't know be composed of frankincense, myrrh, the difference and uses the same cloth. CONTRIBUTORS: NYONYA ROSALIND TAN abdomen to support the womb. Its corseting effect also benzoin or gum benjamin. These NYONYA MONICA ALSAGOFF BABA ANDY GWEE “Aiyee! Satu kain lap semua?” (You're NYONYA DAWN MARIE LEE BABA ELROY LAURENT LEOW 4711 Cologne was popular because of the refreshing resins, derived from the gummy sap of NYONYA AGNES NG BABA RICHARD TAN feeling on the skin in the tropical heat. helps to slim the ribcage, belly and hips. These measures using one rag for every purpose?) Nor several tree species, have been used for

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GREW UP IN THOMSON Road, helped soothe the aches and pains of Besides angin (wind), kamchek was T P C in a house surrounded by a two- elderly bibiks. 1 another common problem. Children acre garden. My grandfather, For oral medication, most usually suffered from perot kamchek I (flatulence), believed to be due to cha nicknamed Pisang Raja (King Banana), Peranakans turned to obat sinseh R E U bought it in 1911 and it was the family (medicine from a Chinese physician). ching (worms) in their stomach. With better hygiene and nutrition, we rarely Y home for the next sixty years. Typically, this was a mix of different ) hear about children suffering from A R R Pisang Raja passed away one year dried herbs, usually leaves, but perot kamchek these days. In the past, BABA TAN KUNING before I was born. My best memories sometimes including insects. The exact kids tended to be skinny, but parents INHERITED A BOX D A E centre around the years growing ingredients and the proportion of each wanted them to be cute and chubby, OF YOK TUA FROM O up under the watchful eyes of my ingredient depended on the nature of HIS GRANDMOTHER. making regular de-worming a must. grandmother, the matriarch of the the illness, and the prescription would HE SHARES FIVE OF I N S Today, rising affluence has resulted in THEM HERE. house, along with a host of relatives. be written in Chinese. the opposite problem of obesity among ) It was a time when age-old Peranakan Each prescription was recorded children (and adults too). T A traditions were still upheld, even in what the Peranakans called a

K in the midst of many significant yok tua (yok - the Hokkien word for I K developments in Singapore. As a medicine, tua - record). Since most young boy, the days were carefree and Peranakans could barely speak O A happy, except during the times when dialects, let alone read Chinese I fell sick. characters, the purpose of each We have two prescriptions for angin or TRANSLATION OF INGREDIENTS Back in the 1930s, many people prescription would usually be added N N 1a 'wind'. Many Peranakans believed that 天竺黄 Shiraia bambusicola believed in traditional cures for in Baba Malay e.g. “obat batok”, 'wind' was an underlying cause of many (a parasitic fungus growing on specific T ailments. There were few trained but occasionally in English too e.g. species of bamboo twigs) A illnesses, making it imperative to pukol doctors, and a visit to the clinic “cough medicine”. angin (beat the wind away). 虫珠？ Literal translation: Insect pearl/bead would be a costly affair. One would Many Nyonyas were literate, Following the beautiful calligraphic 淡全虫 Scorpion No translation L go to hospital only when absolutely having attended 'sekolah Boon script, written in ink, my grandmother 珠碧？ U Musk 麝香 necessary. Only the critically or Keng' or Singapore Chinese Girls' used a ball point pen to add the words 金箔 Gold leaf (Fig 6 ) terminally ill sought treatment at School as it was referred to then by 'Hong Yok' (medicine for wind). 地龙 Earthworm (Fig 8 ) hospitals, which was regarded as a the Peranakans. (Lim Boon Keng, Interestingly, 'Hong Yok' is written on the 野黄连 Onychium Japonicum A death knell. a medical doctor, was one of the left - perhaps the Peranakans were aware (a species of fern) Traditional cures continued to founders of SCGS). that Chinese characters then were written 防风 Saposhnikovia divaricata (Chinese Parsnip Root) ) be widely used in the 1940s, during My grandmother carefully from left to right, with the prescription the Japanese Occupation, with all its kept the yok tua in a box. When thus ending on the left, where the 天然冰片 Natural Borneol CHINESE Fritillaria cirrhosa (Himalayan Fritillary) privations, and in the subsequent post- anyone in the family was ill, the annotation was then added. 川贝母 MEDICINAL MEDICINE FOR WIND (Fig 3 ) war years of recovery and re-building. appropriate prescription would be 蒙石 Lapis Micae Aureus PRESCRIPTIONS For Peranakans, being at the taken out and brought to the keday 珍珠 Pearl (Fig 1 ) ) nexus of three different cultural obat Cina (Chinese medicine shop). 牛黄 Ox gall

traditions meant that we could turn to The shopkeepers prepared the 白僵蚕 Silkworm larvae Western, Chinese or Malay medicine. mixture, then packed it in paper for a 胆南星 Gallstones from Ox, Sheep, Pig or Goat Some Western-trained doctors were customer to take home and brew. 甘草 Liquorice root (Fig 4 ) popular among Peranakans and were I was told that in mainland BABA TAN household names, but many Babas China, the prescriptions were written KUNING RECALLS and Nyonyas still turned to traditional on silk, but in Singapore, white The second TRANSLATION OF INGREDIENTS SOME TRADITIONAL cures. The wak urut (elderly massage cotton was used. Cloth, whether prescription CURES FROM HIS 2 天竺黄 Shiraia bambusicola lady) was a frequent visitor to many cotton or silk, would keep better for 'wind' is for (a parasitic fungus growing on specific CHILDHOOD, AND species of bamboo twigs) HIS SON RECORDS Peranakan households. They provided than paper, suggesting that the yok children – the Lapis Micae Aureus THEM FOR OUR massages to the young Nyonyas tua were meant to be handed from words 'Hong Yeok 蒙石 Ox gall READERS. during their post-natal confinement one generation to the next, as they budak budak makan' 牛黄 ( ) Yok Tua transcribed by Dr period, helping them to regain their represented the valued knowledge have been added, 地龙 Earthworm Fig 8 Michael Stanley-Baker, 珍珠 Pearl (Fig 1 ) Huang Wenqin shape after childbirth. They also from the past. this time in pencil. 白僵蚕 Silkworm larvae

SOME INGREDIENTS PEARL CIRRHOSA (HIMALAYANFRITILLARIA FRITILLARY) 全蝎 Whole Scorpion (Fig 2 ) 2 麝香 Musk 4 5 胆南星 Gallstones from Ox, Sheep, Pig, or Goat 金箔 Gold leaf (Fig 6 ) 1 冰片 Borneol 珠珀(珍珠 No translation FOR CHILDREN TO CONSUME 和琥珀?) SCORPION LIQUORICE ROOT SAFFLOWER 防风 Saposhnikovia divaricata GOLD LEAF EARTHWORM COPTIS CHINENSIS (Chinese Parsnip Root) 川贝母 Fritillaria cirrhosa (Himalayan Fritillary) 9 (Fig 3 ) 野黄连 Onychium japonicum (a species of fern) 8 7 Liquorice root (Fig 4 ) 3 甘生草 6 虫 朱 ？ Literal translation: Insect pearl/bead GENTIANA SCABRA

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Apart from medicine for ailments, TRANSLATION OF INGREDIENTS a INDIAN BORAGE 3 a prescription for nourishment was 生地 Rehmmania Root T P F C also found. For example, when a child 苏木 Sappan Wood reached puberty, a set of herbs would be 当归 Angelica Healing W L O O brewed with chicken. Back then, chicken 金不换 Stephania Sinica was a luxury item, usually consumed 赤芍 Red Peony O A R U ( 5 ) Garden only during Chinese New Year and other 正红花 Safflower Fig N G festive occasions, or to nourish the sickly 桑寄生 Mulberry stem Parasitic Eucommia bark and weak. 正杜仲 at Home 怀牛膝 Achyranthes root T H A note behind the yok tua indicated 桔梗急 Platycodon grandiflorum that prescription was for children turning 性子 (Chinese bellflower) S 15, suggesting that puberty came later in Obat sinseh (medicine Daon kapor baru is known as Indian Borage, Cuban Oregano those days compared to present times. Instructions from the Taoist priest: Take these herbs or Mexican Mint (scientific name: plectranthus amboinicus). It could be consumed by both boys and from a Chinese with a chicken that screams (i.e. rooster), add half wine The thick, fuzzy leaves are aromatic and have a minty flavour. girls, so that they would become strong and half water and simmer for the time it takes two physician) is They can be pounded to extract the raw juice or boiled in and healthy adults. Brewing time was jossticks to burn out. water to drink as an infusion. measured in the time taken for two joss usually bitter and sticks to burn out. strong smelling.

On the other RUE hand, medicinal

One of the prescriptions is an obat chuchi TRANSLATION OF INGREDIENTS plants used by the mata (eyewash). The various ingredients 4 正川连 Coptis chinensis (Fig 9 ) Peranakans can be would have to be brewed first before the 白菊花 White Chrysanthemum cooled liquid was used to rinse the eyes. 龙胆草 Gentiana scabra Bunge (Fig 7 ) fairly pleasant. 炉甘石 Lapis calminaris, Calamine 胆矾 Chalcanthitum Since we had a EYEWASH huge compound, my Daon aroda is the common Rue (scientific name: ruta mother maintained a graveolens). The small leaves have a strong smell and bitter taste. The bitter taste is what gives the herb its common name, small herbal garden. “Rue”, which means regret. The leaves are boiled with water. Daon kapor baru was used to treat a simple cough. However Beside the herbs were if it got worse, daon aroda was used. I still grow both herbs in TRANSLATION OF INGREDIENTS flower pots from my grandmother's garden. There is also a yok tua for sore throat, loss fruit trees, with their of voice and cough. It would come in 5 大冰片一钱 Large Piece of Borneol 3.7 g powder form, to be blown directly at the 真牛黄一钱 Large ox gall 3.7 g seasonal offerings. throat. Interestingly, this prescription 露蜂房五钱 Wasp's Nest 18.5 g Just like obat sinseh, daon kapor baru and daon aroda are hardly used for was not written on cloth, but on paper There was also a 熊胆二钱 Bear gall 7.4 g medicinal purposes now. These days, most prefer a visit to the doctor or with the letterhead of the Hong San Si Borax 7.4 g 硼砂二钱 pharmacy for Western medicine. Temple, a temple that was once popular 正老青黛二钱 Authentic Indigo spice garden, with with Peranakans. naturalis extract 7.4 g There has been a resurgence of interest in natural remedies, FOR A SORE THRAOT The address of the temple is also ingredients used especially among some who believe that we have become too reliant given – at 5 ½ milestone of Changi daily in Peranakan on antibiotics. However not everything herbal is always safe. Some Road. It was standard practice then to herbs can even be toxic if prepared wrongly or consumed in the wrong refer to the location of places in terms of cooking, such as dose. Nonetheless, there is wisdom in traditional cures used by our milestones. Changi was very far from forefathers. We can use them to complement modern medicine in where we lived in Thomson (at the 3rd lengkuas (galangal), beneficial ways. milestone), especially since the transport network was not well-developed. This seray (lemongrass), makes the yok tua particularly precious. EDITOR'S NOTE DR MICHAEL STANLEY- BAKER SERVES AS THE and daon lemo perot VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE INTERNATIONAL Baba Tan Kuning passed away peacefully on 11 March ASSOCIATION FOR THE (kaffir leaves). But STUDY OF TRADITIONAL 2021. Many of the terms written on yok tua are written in ASIAN MEDICINE. HE HOLDS A PHD FROM UNIVERSITY whenever common old Chinese script and very specific to Traditional Chinese COLLEGE LONDON IN MEDICAL HISTORY, A Medicine, which a layman may not be able to understand. It MASTER'S DEGREE IN LITERARY CHINESE FROM ailments struck, it was was a huge challenge to decipher and translate the Tan family INDIANA UNIVERSITY BLOOMINGTON, AND yok tua. Many thanks to Dr Michael Stanley-Baker and his A CLINICAL DIPLOMA the plants in the herb IN CHINESE MEDICINE colleague Huang Wenqin who helped us with the translation. FROM RUSETO COLLEGE, garden to the rescue. BOULDER, COLORADO.

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Ne llie, th NYONYA LINDA YONYA onstage with GT and Uncle e a na k CHEE INTERVIEWS JESSIE William,”says Jessie happily. da ra, THE DIMINUITIVE CHEANG From that finger-biting start was 1 9 5 WAYANG N 0 NEVER WORE A born one of Singapore’s most versatile . PERANAKAN STAR KEBAYA IN HER actresses in wayang Peranakan, at WHO CHARMED A LIFE until she the height of what some called the PRESIDENT went onstage at 48 Peranakan Revival. For over three NELLIE years old. decades, Jessie was to perform at OF WAYANG THE That was in 1986 when Jessie made virtually all the theatres in Singapore STAR her debut in theatre. Baba playwright – WTC, Victoria, Kallang, Jubilee Hall, Henry Tan was scouting for actresses for Drama Centre and the University Cultural PERANAKAN The late playwright, the seminal play, Menyesal (Regret). He Centre – as an auntie, friend, mother, wife, Baba Henry Tan WE PAY TRIBUTE TO FOUR FEMALE STARS s chanced upon Jessie’s uncle, Baba writer daughter and even maidservant. (seated) with the cast Kenneth Cheo Kim Ban, at Baba Peter Baba Cedric Tan, who had of a 1987 play, Zaman OF PERANAKAN THEATRE FROM THE 1940S TO PRESENT DAY. Sekarang (Times have e Wee’s Katong Antique House. Kenneth performed with Jessie in Pagar Makan Padi n changed). The actors i suggested his niece. “So I went to meet (Unreliable) in 2010, describes her as “one are household names o Henry and the director, his cousin of a rare breed” of Peranakan dondang in Peranakan theatre. BABA RONNEY They are: (from left) rROM 1947 Ghi, conducted his own William Tan. I read the lines and got in sayang performers. He remembers Jessie the late Sally Gan, TAN KOON SIANG e TO 1958, orchestral band. Her Bintang straightaway,” Jessie recalls. for her demure personality and for her Rosalind Goh, Jessie TAKES HIS AUNT, Nyonya businessman father, Toh Seng Menyesal was a production of “smooth, melodious style and stellar one- Cheang, GT Lye, Julie NYONYA NELLIE F Chua, the late Mabel Nellie Toh was a Watt, was the organiser of the Gunong Sayang Association to be staged line repartees”. TOH, BACK TO POST- Lee, Gerald Yeo, Lee household name Malacca Chinese Dramatic Association at the now-defunct World Trade Jessie’s vocal talent Yong Ming and the WAR MELAKA AND within the Straits- (MCDA) and worked with renowned Centre Auditorium. Her shone as the original late Patrick Foo. SINGAPORE WHEN Residing nearby, he would come over co-stars were Babas GT singer of Di Kebun SHE WAS A STAGE born Chinese actor/director Yeo Joay Tee. to her house at Klebang (the Melakan Lye and Lee Yong Ming, Bunga in the 1999 play, STAR All photos courtesy community for her The MCDA was made up of equivalent of Singapore’s East Coast have company, which I enjoy, and when I of Nellie Toh unless singing and acting volunteers helping out for the love Road with its upper crust villas). He and Nyonyas Cynthia Janji Perot (Pre-birth act I do not look at the audience,” says the otherwise stated. in post-war wayang of wayang Peranakan. Her father ran coachedNellie her in singing and acting. Nellie Lee, Jeanette Chan and Pact), written by Baba diminuitive retired nurse. Peranakan. She errands and made sure everything was was his prima donna. Rosalind Goh. Jessie William Gwee. Playing Theatre is her life blood. But Jessie was a shooting star who gave it all up at in order. Her uncle, Toh Seng Yam, lent When his first play, Sapu Tangan was to act as the kaypoh the role of the mother, fears that her heart condition may H bibik, or the nosey parker her lilting voice won the height of her fame. his expertise on the sound equipment Yang Puteh (The White Handkerchief), spring an unpleasant surprise on her. Since boyhood I had always been as he was a soundman working in the was staged in 1955, he acted and sang friend who questions the the hearts of the “Malu (embarassing) you know, if I enchanted by Aunty Nellie’s charming, Malacca Department of Broadcasting. with Nellie, who sang the theme song unfilial daughter-in-law, audience, notably collapse.” Life has taken a more leisurely intelligent and urbane personality. I Other volunteers designed and sewed Sapu Tangan with so much emotion played by Cynthia, with the then-President Wee pace since her last role in 2018 as a visited her in 2017 with Baba GT Lye, the costumes, and that she shed tears. The sad quoteworthy line: “Mengapa Kim Wee who was mother struck by dementia in Lu Siapa doyen of wayang Peranakan, who is still helped with love story was so touching that menantu kasi neo makan bubor one of her biggest (Who are you). an ardent admirer of Aunty Nellie. He lighting and other the audience wept. The play sama tau eu?” (“Why does the fans. He wrote her “It is time for me to stop, orang jelak recounted how enchanted he was with stage work. sold out in its week-long run in daughter-in-law give plain many letters to tengok gua (people are tired of seeing her grace and beauty when he first set Back then, the Melaka and two-week run in porridge and soya sauce to her compliment her me). I must give way to the younger eyes on her in 1950. The 17-year old anak wayang Peranakan Singapore. mother-in-law?”) singing and acting. generation to take over.” A fan letter from the Istana, dara (teenage girl) had won a Talentime cast usually In 1957, she starred in Though her stage debut As she 1991. Jessie received much Jessie Cheang at hom e. Ph competition in consisted of three another play, Bunga Teratai, also was 34 years ago, Jessie remembers encouragement from the nears 82 years, otog rap h o then-President of Singapore, f J Melaka with her or four actors. The directed by Yeo Joay Tee. After feeling lost like it was yesterday: “I was the Methodist ess ie Baba Wee Kim Wee . by C song, Forever and diminutive Baba a successful run in Melaka, it so nervous. I didn’t know any of the Girls’ School o Nellie dressed as a Burmese maiden in a lin C h Ever. Meeting her Joay Tee directed cast.” She had to grapple with tying her alumna considers herself e 1947 charity performance, as reported in was a sell-out show during the e. after more than and acted in the the local daily, the Singapore Standard. Easter holidays when it was sarong and fixing the kerosang on to her fortunate. “I was approached five decades, plays, almost always taking on more than staged as a charity performance at the kebaya. Worst, “the sanggol, pengsan! because they were looking GT pleasantly one female role, usually a housewife, Singapore Badminton Hall. (hairpiece, faint!) Macham taik lembu ka for Peranakans.” Her surprised Aunty maid or even mother-in-law. Humble and modest about her gifts, belakang! (like cowshit at the back of my lineage draws from Nellie with a Aunty Nellie explained that ladies Aunty Nellie never hankered after a head!) I was so afraid my sanggol was Melaka and Sumatra; she rendition of her were barred from performing onstage as career in show business. “Like that lah. I going to drop.” spoke only Baba Malay signature song, it was considered tak senonoh (uncouth) just enjoyed singing and performing.” Jessie was mentored by Baba with her parents at their Sapu Tangan. At 86, by their grandmothers. In those days, an Nellie had many admirers. In 1958, William, the legendary doyen of dondang family home in 16, Hoot Aunty Nellie is still anak dara had to be chaperoned by her at the height of her fame, an eligible sayang, renowned for his witty and Kiam Road. as beautiful and brother or another male family member bachelor, Baba Ee Hong Guan, wooed spontaneous melodic repartees. He Jessie relishes acting elegant as ever. I if she stepped out of the house. her away from the encouraged her to “belajar” or learn as it brings out a different suppose her good In 1954, Nellie sang at the Youth world of wayang the poetic art form of singing that personae in her: “I am shy Winner, Talentime Contest 1950. Image from looks came from Festival of Music and Ballet at the Peranakan into Peranakans had adopted from Malay but onstage it is different. I The Singapore Standard grandfather Tan Capitol Theatre, Melaka. It featured domesticity. They culture. Jessie dutifully obeyed. “Gua tak (public domain) Soo Hock who was budding pianists, instrumentalists, were married pernah nyanyi dondang sayang,” although a tall and handsome businessman. The dancers and singers. within the year. she was quick to memorise the lyrics, dashing Anglophile sold top-end luxury Her maternal uncle, playwright, The arrival of “by heart lah,” she recalls. motorcars in the 1920s. singer and songwriter Tan Eng Ann, was a baby girl the But timing her cue was tricky for her main influence. He became blind following year left this newbie. William used a clever MALACCA CHINESE at the age of nine but he never let his Nellie’s theatre device: “Lu dengair baik baik. Bila gua DRAMATIC ASSOCIATION handicap stand in the way of his love for Nellie today, at 86. She career on the chakap mmh, lu masok”. So she sang after Nellie grew up with musical roots. is blessed with a family music and theatre. Baba Eng Ann was of two daughters and two backburner… he said, “mmh” to cue her in. “It was Her maternal granduncle, Tan Soo prolific in writing Baba Malay plays. grandchildren. permanently. my first dondang sayang performance Di Kebun IN THE GARDEN WITH JESSIE Sama ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 24 Bunga Jessie ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 25 feature

N yo NYONYA NATALIE ny a OUD. Although Cy CHEAH SPEAKS TO nt hi BRASH. she usually a NYONYA CHRISTINA in SOMBONG. plays the rebel co WEE ABOUT HER s t L u m FAVOURITE STAGE (Conceited). on stage, in real e “Today, I am significantly ROLES Photos courtesy of Nyonya Christina life, Christina is a Christina Wee. more fluent than when I Wee is most well happy-go-lucky known for the fifty-something first started acting. Through villainous female roles she plays. She is who works in wayang Peranakan, I learned so convincing that her stage manager Communications so much more about the once overheard some bibiks in the and Community audience swearing, “Wah, if I see her, Relations. She culture and I was able to I’m going to slap her face!” grew up in support Gunong Sayang I laughed out loud when she related a Peranakan Association in that manner.” that anecdote during our interview. family and uses “It’s not difficult for me to portray such her experience roles. I have a fierce looking face and to flesh out her people believe that I’m genuinely upset stage characters. Cynthia or that the character is truly vicious”, Her mother and WAYANG PERANAKAN’S FAVOURITE says Christina. Her husband and fellow grandmother were MENANTU (DAUGHTER-IN-LAW) wayang Peranakan actor, Baba Fred Soh, both matriarchs Lee chimes in, “Her face is for real. That and she studied NYONYA fierceness is the signature of a matriarch. their behavior NATALIE CHEAH YONYA Peranakan Association Singapore in She really lets her inner bitch out in such and expressions a role!” closely. In WRITES ABOUT CYNTHIA 2009 was the hardest play for her to do. Nyonya Christina's many expression in Kain Chik Dua Mungka HER MOTHER’S NLEE’S The dialogue was heavy, and Cynthia’s When I asked Christina if I could preparation of her PROLIFIC ROLES FIRST ROLE in command of Baba Malay was still very interview her for this article, she roles, Christina would also watch Baba IN PERANAKAN wayang Peranakan shallow. She thought the script was frankly replied, “I have a very short GT Lye’s repeatedly. Christina loves THEATRE Photos courtesy was as a daughter- “so cheem” (complex) but she took it in term memory. After each show, I throw dramatic roles and says her “naturally of Cynthia Lee. in-law. her stride and used the opportunity to everything out of my mind – the script, loud voice” helps her play these brash In 1984, at just improve her Baba Malay. the characters, even the title of the play. characters with ease. 24 years old with no acting experience, “Today, I am significantly more I honestly forget!” She confides that it’s also “very Cynthia was cast in the landmark play, fluent than when I first started acting. Christina began her acting career in easy for me to cry”. Pileh Menantu (Choosing a Daughter-in- Through wayang Peranakan, I learned the Gunong Sayang Association’s play, “I don’t have to use Eyemo to fake Law) in the title role. The play sparked so much more about the culture and I Chueh It Chap Goh in 2000. Due to her the tears. I will just think of something off a revival of Peranakan theatre in was able to support Gunong Sayang Nyonya Cynthia and her co-stars, Christina and Fred parents passing, she did not act again very sad and the emotions come Singapore. Her most vivid memory of Association in that until Mama Rosak (2006), when she was through.” the show was playing a wishful girl, manner.” asked to take over a role just one month Behind the scenes, Christina likes plucking rose petals and dreaming of In her off- before the show started. “It wasn’t easy. to release stress with silly antics and being a perfect daughter-in-law. stage career, Bo pian (I had no choice) the show must joking around with the cast and crew. Maybe her wish came true. Looking Cynthia started go on, so I stepped in”, she said. Since However, just before the show opens, Nyonya Christina with the cast members of Kain Chik back on her acting career, Cynthia found out in social work then she has played different roles, she still gets butterflies in her tummy. Dua Mungka that she has played the daughter-in-law before moving to but is most recognised as the feisty, “One of the most challenging things for or daughter most of the time. “Baba GT human resources sassy daughter-in-law who is always in me is when I have many quick costume dead knot. Frantic and intent on getting Lye usually played my mother-in-law or and now finds conflict with the changes, especially when the sarongs the sarong off quickly, Christina grabbed Nyon mother,” she says. herself in a social family. ya C are tied so tightly!” she confides. a pair of scissors backstage and cut it off. hr ist As a young service agency. ina She relates an incident “I later found out that it was an antique in P actress, she looked When I ask ag from Kain Chik Dua Mungka sarong that Fred bought!” she gasps. ar M (2017) when she had “But that’s a good lesson for him lah, up to “mother what is special a k a figures” on stage: about wayang n just minutes to change in future don’t tie so tight! Just use a P a Sally Gan, Mabel Peranakan, she d from her tight sarong sarong with a zip!” she giggles. i, 2 0 kebaya into a modern Looking to the future, she hopes Lee and Jessie immediately 1 Cheang. They says it’s about 0 dress. Fred, who that she can try out “softer” roles that Nyonya Cynthia (right, in pink) in Mari Kita Main Wayang, 1994 were masters of “building rapport was in charge of her the audience can empathise with. She the Baba Malay with the audience and adapting to Baba Malay, they are drawn in by the wardrobe, had tied also hopes to language and the environment”. In the old days, social themes and the use of surtitles.” the sarong with a groom younger tended to ad-lib audiences were full of bibiks who She plans to keep on acting for a Peranakans like in the middle of expected slapstick moments or tearful long time, and hopes to grow into roles her daughter, for scenes. Cynthia scenes that they could heartily laugh that her mentor Mabel Lee would do. WAYANG'S SASSIEST STAR the stage. “We Nyonya Cynthia with recalls, “When I or cry along to. “I miss the audience wayang Peranakan her idol, late Mabel Lee “I would be happy to play the doting was still new, I participation and ambience of wayangs aunt on the stage, dishing out good actors are all faithfully memorised my lines. When in the past. There was so much more advice. But I also love playing the nasty getting older. they ad-libbed, I would have to ‘gabra’ enthusiasm in the 1980s and 90s character. There’s so much more room to Who will take my way through the scene, hoping that compared to now.” express emotions!” on the younger another actor would respond with some Cynthia feels that today’s audiences “I love being on stage and roles? I will act as words to bring us back to the script.” expect a different level of sophistication interacting with the audience. The long as GSA will have me,” she Cynthia confesses that Bilek Roda in the script and acting. “Even though the character simply takes over you and you Nyonya Christina with her Hidop (Bedrooms) staged by The younger crowd may not fully understand get to relive the younger days.” Christina concludes. daughter Nyonya Crystal ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 26 Wee ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 27 feature THE

SERVING ESMOND SOH AND MONKEYHE MATURE HOUSING ESTATE OF TIONG GOD NYONYA DAWN BAHRU has plenty of sights and sounds to MARIE LEE TELL THE offer curious visitors interested in the enclave’s FASCINATING TALE Peranakan past. Right at its heart is a temple on OF DEVOTION TO Eng Hoon Street dedicated to Great Sage Equal to THE TAI SENG YAH Heaven (齐天大圣), popularly known as the Monkey God or Photos by Kathy Anne Lim T unless otherwise Tai Seng Yah in Hokkien. The Qi Tian Gong (齐天宫) temple stated. (which means Palace for the Great Sage Equal to Heaven) was frequented by many Peranakan Chinese. According to an estimate by one of the temple’s leaders, Baba Goh Kim at least 75% of the temple’s worshippers were Peranakans in Choon (holding the flag), the 1965. One of these Peranakans who was eventually selected founding spirit- WHO to become a censer-master of the temple was a wealthy Baba medium of the IS THE who lived in Emerald Hill where the old Singapore Chinese Qi Tian Gong temple. Girls School (SCGS) once was. Photo courtesy of the MONKEY Once a tang ki (spirit-medium) temple, Qi Tian Gong’s Qi Tian Gong temple. history can be traced to the early-1900s. GOD? However, fate had other plans for him. While he was preparing to hang himself, elsewhere in the kampong, a tang ki dedicated to THE GREAT the services of Kwan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, SAGE EQUAL TO HEAVEN is went into a trance. In this trance, the Goddess popularly known as informed her aides of a suicide attempt and the MONKEY GOD. instructed them to intervene. Her aides saved Kim He is the protagonist Choon in the nick of time and brought him before of the 16th century Ming dynasty Chinese the Goddess. novel, Journey to the She offered him a cure for his mother’s West, authored by illness if he agreed to become a spirit-medium Wu Cheng’En. of the Monkey God. Desperate for his mother Born from a sacred to be cured, he accepted. stone on the In the following years, Kwan Yin’s tang ki Mountain of Flowers initiated and guided him through the process of and Fruits, the Great Sage was taught the becoming a spirit-medium of the Monkey God. secrets of immortality Interestingly, Kim Choon’s mother had a by the sage Subhuti. small Monkey God statue (which is still in the Qi Tiang Gong temple today). With this statue, After becoming immortal and the family started to service the community undergoing a series of from an attap hut within a taro garden. trials and tribulations, By the 1920s, the Qi Tian Gong had the Great Sage was gained a significant following and was very tasked with escorting popular among the Peranakans. The number the venerable monk The Qi Tiang Gong temple at Eng Hoon Street in Tiong Bahru, all decked out to Tripitaka on a celebrate the Monkey God’s birthday on the 16th day of the first lunar month. In of devotees and worshippers had swelled pilgrimage to India. the past, over 75% of Monkey God devotees at this temple were Peranakans. significantly over the years, so in 1938, the temple moved to its When his task was completed, the Great current location at Eng Hoon Street. Sage was promoted to In 1910, Baba Goh Kim Choon, a third The first floor was used for the spirit-medium practice, Buddha-hood, where generation Peranakan whose ancestry could where images of the Monkey God and other divinities drawn he took on the title of be traced to Zhangzhou (漳州), Fujian from the pantheon of Chinese religion were displayed and the Buddha Victorious SAVED in Countless Battles. province, China, became a spirit-medium worshipped. The second floor was used as a residential In Singapore and BY A for the Monkey God in exchange for the space where Kim Choon and his family lived for the next few other parts of TWIST deity’s help in curing his ailing mother. He decades. At least two of his grandchildren were born there. Southeast Asia where was just 16 years old at the time. In 1961, Kim Choon passed away on the eighteenth day of communities of the OF Chinese diaspora have Kim Choon’s father had died early, the eighth lunar month. Although his son Goh Geok Suan was gathered, the Great FATE leaving his mother to raise four children originally chosen to continue in his father’s footsteps as a tang Sage was – and still on her own. The family was very poor ki (spirit-medium) of the Monkey God, he resisted. is – worshipped as and Kim Choon had to support them by a powerful exorcist Ultimately, the Monkey God decided to search for another The Monkey God was and protector of the selling flowers. When his mother fell seriously ill, he could suitable candidate, who turned out to be Soh Teow Peng. He commonly referred to by needy. not afford to pay for treatment with his meagre income and served the Monkey God for 42 years until his retirement from Peranakans as Tai Seng Yah. became desperate. He contemplated suicide and went to a spiritual service. Till today, the temple remains without an cluster of trees near the kampong to hang himself. active spirit-medium.

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The 16th day of the first lunar month (the Monkey God’s birthday) and 16th of the eighth lunar month are important festival dates for WAYANGS the Qi Tian Gong. Large and elaborate celebrations take place. & Wayangs or street opera would be performed for the Monkey God, other deities and guests. The wayangs were RONGGENG perfomed in different dialects, depending on the sponsorhip FOR from devotees. Because there was a large following of IMPORTANT Peranakan devotees in the past, the temple even had ronggeng FESTIVALS (Javanese style dancing popular with the Peranakans) sessions during these festivals. There was also a procession through the streets of the neighbourhood. Many of the devotees placed temporary altars outside their houses to welcome the Monkey God. The procession was also meant to bless and cleanse the kampong. The Monkey God’s tang ki (spirit-medium) would go into a trance and visit the devotees' homes or shops to bless them or give consultations. These celebrations still take place today and are very colourful affairs with a riot of sights and sounds, carrying of sedan chairs and palanquins with lion and dragon

dances and a drum Ping Pong bottle used to signal the presence of and gong percussion the Monkey God. Photo courtesy of Ronni Pinsler. troupe, known as Kong-Kuan in Hokkien.

Temple elders relate THE many interesting ‘PING-PONG’ A anecdotes about the Monkey God. BOTTLE & CAPRICIOUS It was said that BUT during festivals, when GREAT SAGE BENIGN the Monkey God came (through his WORSHIP 1 2 DEITY spirit-medium, Baba Goh Kim Choon), 3 he would climb up a The ping-pong (also known as pong-pong) betel nut tree and swing onto tall coconut bottle is a unique ritual instrument trees growing just opposite the temple. associated with the worship of the Great He would repeat that stunt from tree to Sage in Singapore. Although the original ping-pong that belonged to Qi Tian Gong tree in the neighbourhood. was broken, the temple continues to As a teenager, Kim Choon thought keep two ping-pongs beside the Great that he could play truant and avoid Sage’s altar till today. going into trance to give consultations. The Monkey God found a way to teach Alan J. A. Elliot, in his monograph Chinese Spirit-medium Cults in Singapore, his young spirit-medium a lesson. Once, describes the ping-pong as: “…an while Kim Choon was in a trance, he ordinary bottle filled with ‘twelve o’ Temple assistants clock’ water’, water drawn from a tap hanging up paper climbed up to the top of a tall coconut offerings from devotees tree. Just as he was about to pluck a or well at midday. Into the neck of the for the festival. Each coconut, the Monkey God left him. He bottle is fitted with a funnel-like piece paper robe is taller than of glass-ware open at the lower end of a man. was left clinging on for his dear life! the funnel, which dips into the water but completely closes at the top.” Clockwise from top left: In the past, chap ji kee (the Hokkien 1 Wayangs (street name for a lottery using 12 numbered Devotees believe that the Great Sage’s operas) are sponsored by sticks) was especially popular presence leads to the agitation of water devotees and offered for the stored in the ping-pong bottle. When entertainment of the Monkey among the poor. It was said that the the Great Sage is about to arrive, God and other deities. CHAP headquarters of the chap ji kee operator bubbles are created at the bottom of 2 To prove that the was in Johor Baru, but there were the ping-pong bottle. As the bubbles Monkey God had fully agents in most kampongs in Singapore force themselves upwards and into the possessed his tang ki’s JI where people could place bets and funnel-like glass, they give off a ‘ping- (spirit medium’s) body, these pong’ sound that signal the Great Sage’s skewers were smeared with collect winnings. The agent “earned” arrival. This onomatopoeic phenomenon lard and pierced through the KEE man’s flesh while he was in money when people lost their bets. thus gives the ping-pong bottle its name. a trance. The Qi Tian Kong So, when the Monkey God came, Unfortunately, and despite the ubiquity temple today has no tang ki. some of his devotees begged him for a of these bottles as markers of Great Sage worship in Singapore and Malaysia, A gong and percussion good number to win some quick money. The Monkey God 3 the origins of the ping-pong bottle is lost troupe known as Kong decided to give them a set of two numbers. The devotees Kuan (in Hokkien) to history. entertains the Monkey God quickly placed their bets with their local agent in the kampong. during the festival. When the results were announced, all the punters who

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had bought the numbers given by the Monkey God won! The agent had to pay out a huge amount to the winners. The next day, a woman came to the Qi Tian Gong temple, crying and wailing loudly. She said that her son, who was the betting agent, had committed suicide because he was penniless after having to pay off all the winning bets. Since then, the Monkey God decided that he would not give out any more winning lottery numbers.

In the past, gao sng was a Colourful mysterious phenomenon that “well-fed” afflicted young children from paper horses the age of 6 months. These (complete with extra children seemed to stop growing hay) are GAO and would crouch and act like offered for monkeys. the Monkey God’s use. SNG At that time, doctors were not able to identify the cause of the problem. It was said that the child of one of the doctors at the Singapore General Hospital (SGH) was afflicted with this problem 1 2 and no cure could be found. Some amahs (female orderlies) working in SGH at that time had their dormitories in Tiong Bahru. They would pass the Qi Tian Gong temple daily on their way to and from work. white, meaning death or funerals. For protection, the child must One of them mentioned the case to the temple and asked for a also become a godchild of the Monkey God. cure for the doctor’s child. For more severe cases where four or more nodes were found The Monkey God had taught his tang ki (spirit medium) under an afflicated child’s armpit, the Monkey God had to view to identify and treat cases of gao sng. But when the cases were the child in person and personally prescribe the treatment. deemed severe, only the Monkey God himself could treat it. The medium could determine the severity of the case by looking for nodes underneath the child’s armpits. For three nodes or less, the medium could treat the child with a Monkey God talisman and an Clockwise from top left: elaborate process. The wife 1 Temple assistants place the Monkey God MONKEY GOD WORSHIP in his sedan, the blood red “Dragon Chair’ of the medium also learnt to before the start of the street procession during treat such cases. the festival. First, the tang ki had to 2 Lion and Dragon dances are a mainstay of seek approval for treatment TODAY the celebrations for the Monkey God’s birthday. from the Monkey God 3 & 4 Devotees walk through the by tossing a pair of pak ill today, some of Baba Goh Kim Choon’s neighbourhood with Monkey God. In the past, puay (divination blocks). this was done as a cleansing and blessing of the descendants continue to assist with the smooth 6 3 When tossed, the blocks kampong. It is believed that the sedan sways running of the temple’s festivities, although none and moves on its own while the god is present. had to show a three- T are spirit-mediums. 5 time affirmation, all in 5 The vermillion ink used in this talisman is Interestingly, before en masse redevelopment and believed to ward off evil. succession, before treatment relocation of Singapore’s kampongs had taken place was approved. This was 6 Taoist priests reporting to the Jade Emperor. in the 1970s, the bulk of the Qi Tian Gong’s devotees In addition to the Monkey God, during the indicated by the blocks were mostly Peranakan, although not all of them lived festival, prayers are also offered to the Jade appearing with one smooth Emperor and Kwan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. in the vicinity. side facing up and the It is believed that she is the only one who can The temple was to have its 100th anniversary in other with the rounded side control the Monkey God. 2020, but due to COVID-19 safe distancing restrictions, facing up. the celebrations could not take place. A course of treatment took 49 days to complete. The child Today, most Peranakans no longer pray to the had to go for treatment every 3rd, 6th and 9th day of the lunar Monkey God. Nor are they aware that the temple’s month. It was said that the treatment involved using gui sai history is intertwined with that of the Peranakan kou (wet chicken dung) spread on a pong bnia (a sweet Chinese community in Singapore. Hopefully this article will biscuit) and steamed over the child’s clothing which had to be help more to learn about the Qi Tiang Gong and its all white. Peranakan past. The child would then wear the clothing so that the smell would chase the mischievous monkey spirit away. In addition, the child would also be required to bathe in a tub of water mixed with a smelly Chinese herb known as gui sai ding. This smelly herb was believed to chase the mischievous monkey spirit away. THE AUTHORS WISH TO THANK VICTOR YUE FOR GENEROUSLY ALLOWING US TO USE SOME MATERIAL PERTAINING TO QI TIAN GONG’S HISTORY PUBLISHED ON HIS BLOG “CHINESE During treatment, the child was to avoid bright lights, fruits TEMPLES: CREATING A TRAIL OF CHINESE TEMPLES IN SINGAPORE.” WE ARE ALSO DEEPLY GRATEFUL TO OUR INFORMANTS FROM THE QI TIAN GONG TEMPLE WHO WERE PATIENT AND and be kept indoors for 49 days. The child was not to be exposed FORTHCOMING DURING OUR FIELDWORK RESEARCH AND COVERAGE OF THE FESTIVAL IN 2020. FINALLY, MANY THANKS TO PHOTOGRAPHER, KATHY ANNE LIM, FOR GENEROUSLY GIVING HER 4 to “red” and “white” matters – red meaning happy occasions TIME TO DOCUMENT THE FESTIVAL IN DETAIL. such as weddings or full moon celebrations for newborns, and

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Left: Agnes in the 1940s. During the Second World War, the family lived in Bangalore, India from 1942-1946.

Right: Agnes in the 1990s.

NYONYA DAWN MARIE LEE CELEBRATES CENTENARIAN NYONYA AGNES TAN Photos courtesy of Peter Lee.

AGNES ORN IN MELAKATAN in 1920, Nyonya Agnes Tan spent many happy days in the family’s seaside villa at Klebang, Kim Lwi, is the second oldest member of The a Melaka suburb. Peranakan Association Singapore. She recently When Agnes was 15, the family lived in Europe for four celebrated her 101st birthday in February. Agnes had years before returning to Melaka. During the Second World a sheltered childhood growing up in a conservative War, they fled to Bangalore, India and lived there for four Melaka Baba family. The youngest of Baba Tun Tan years from 1942-46. Both she and Alice were thrilled to escape BCheng Lock’s five children, she was affectionately known as the rigidity of Melaka life and spread their wings. Su, short for bongsu, a Baba Malay term of endearment for the After the war, the sisters decided that they wanted to youngest child. As with most anak dara (young ladies) of her study abroad. With the help of their brother, Siew Sin, (who One hundred era, she was not allowed to leave the house unaccompanied. became Malaysia’s longest-serving Finance Minister), they and She grew up in her family’s ancestral home on Heeren persuaded their father to let them sail to America where they Street, built by her great-grandfather Baba Tan Choon Bock, enrolled at the University of Oregon in 1946. They then went One founder of the Straits Steamship Company (which became on to study in London. part of Singapore’s Keppel Corporation in 1983). Heeren Street Agnes returned to Melaka in 1959 to care for her ailing father has since been renamed Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock. who passed away in 1960. For ten years she was chairman and & counting Agnes was closest to her sister Alice. As children, they executive director of her family’s company, UNITAC, ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 34 ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 35 feature

which managed over 20,000 acres of rubber estates. After her sister got married in 1970 to Marcus Scott-Ross, Agnes moved to Singapore in 1972. The two sisters lived next door to each other until Alice of passed away in 2002. gnes carried on the family tradition of philanthropy and donated generously tradition to academic funds in her father’s A name. In 1995 Agnes and Alice donated $16 million to the Institute of Southeast Asian Studies (ISEAS) for a Agraduate scholarship trust. Philanthropy The Tun Dato Sir Cheng-Lock Tan MA Scholarship is offered annually to support local students with the opportunity to pursue postgraduate studies. Among the 45 recipients of the scholarship to date are Members of Parliament Baba Jamus Lim (1996-1999, London School of Economics) and Pritam Singh (2003-2004, King’s College London). In a 1995 issue of this magazine, Agnes explained that the scholarship trust was set up in her father’s name because he did not have the opportunity to further his studies due to his financial situation. Baba Tan Cheng Lock’s grandfather, Tan Choon Bock, felt that his four sons were unworthy of inheriting his empire and locked up all his assets in a family trust for 84 years after his death in 1880. Cheng Lock’s father, Tan Keong Ann was given an annual allowance of $130 Straits Dollars, Agnes (right) with her sister Alice in London, 1950s. The sisters continued their studies in London after graduating from the University of Oregon, USA.

from which he had to support his own family. So although Cheng Lock was a brilliant student, he could not further his education. In 2005, Agnes donated $5.5 million in her father’s name to the National University of Singapore to purchase and restore heritage houses in Singapore and Melaka. The residential townhouse at 157 Neil Road, once owned by a wealthy Peranakan shipping family, the Wees, is now the NUS Baba House which is open to the public by appointment. The two Dutch- style houses at 54/56 Heeren Street in Melaka were purchased and bequeathed to the NUS Department of Architecture for conservation studies. Agnes’ other generous donations include 63 artefacts including important portraits and calligraphy scrolls to the NUS Museum. She also made various donations in support of preserving Peranakan heritage including $50,000 in 2009 Top: Agnes (far left) with her siblings and father Tun Tan Cheng Lock at the family’s seaside villa in Klebang, Melaka. Bottom: Agnes (seated, in a teal silk for the 22nd Baba Nyonya Convention in Singapore. jacket with cheongsam and pearls) with her relatives at her 100th birthday party in February 2020. Left to Right: Chan Chin Choo, Tan Siok Lee, Chan Leong Even in her golden years, Agnes’ generosity and Cheng, Tan Siok Eng, Mrs Lily Chan, Datin Paduka Tan Siok Choo, Mr Jimmy Koh. Seated next to Agnes: Daphne Chan. grace continue to touch the lives of many and carries on her father’s legacy of support for the community and Peranakan heritage.

ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 36 ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 37 feature My friends call me ‘Nut’. I want to be a vet when I grow up because I love animals. But not snakes! Eeee! Meeting one would be the worst thing that atasha with her family’ ya N s chu yon pu. could happen to me. The best thing so far chakap e N tl budak Lit was getting 10/10 for my spelling. I love art and drawing, so when I saw my grandaunt’s CHUPU, it was love at first chakap sight because of the colours and pretty budak peonies. The shape is also quite special. When I asked her about it, she said that BABA BILLY TAY AND NYONYA JOANNE TAN-DE ZILVA in the past, brides used a chupu to MEET OUR LITTLE BABAS AND NYONYAS serve homemade soups to their Photos by Billy Tay. husbands. That’s so sweet. For the first time in the Association’s 120-year history, we have junior members. With the launch of our Junior Membership for youths aged 6-18, we hope that more young people will join us to learn about our rich heritage and culture. We speak to some of our young members here. HOBBIES: Drawing, baking, stamp collecting

OUT MORE I love wearing the ND AB FI O O U Little Nyonya T T J SARONG KEBAYA. IF U N E I It’s so versatile. I’ll wear it at any D O NATASHA O R C time, not just for special occasions. 11 M

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C I’m Peranakan and explain S what that means. I’m proud of my culture and love sharing it with others.

My parents call me melia Ng with her fam HOBBIES: ya A ily’s yon con le N gk Sports, reading, ‘Baby Girl’. I love my family itt ak. playing the the most and like spending time L guitar, drums and with them. I surprise my mummy keyboard HOBBIES: with a big hug and kiss when she says HOBBY: Crocheting, BALLET drawing & goodnight to me. When I grow up, I reading want to be a doctor but also continue Little Nyonya to dance ballet. SIMONE I also like playing CONGKAK with STEPHANIE my grandma. It’s a fun game that lasts TAN a long time. I don't like it when my 17 brother, Emmanuel, fights with me over the TV when it's my turn to watch my shows.

I’m amazed at how Peranakans love to decorate everything. 14 Even a simple TINGKAT (tiered food carrier) is transformed into Little Nyonya a pretty piece of art. Its layers ROWENA 10 Little Nyonya remind me of the many delicious JOY EBER AMELIA flavours that make Nyonya food NG so good!

ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 38 ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 39 feature If you need to I feel so hot in this shirt eat quickly, this is the and jeans. At home I wear perfect meal. It has rice my holey singlets and shorts...so g his favourite d and meat all in one dumpling. holdin essert eet , the comfortable! I’m quite good at card tricks an S Ku I could eat KUEH CHANG ry eh a B Sa and making scrambled eggs. I can’t stand TAU GAY ab lat e B everyday. My brothers ttl (beansprouts) in my noodles. Yucks. Li Benjamin and Christopher When I grow up, I’d like to be a Formula One driver and love it too. Is it hard to an architect. My motto is to never give up and to fight for make? what I believe in. Sometimes I think the world may be very different when I’m an adult. Maybe by then lobsters will have hair, fish will have legs and horses will have wings. Who knows? My worst fear right now is if a meteorite strikes Earth.

Being Peranakan means I get to eat a lot of KUEH 11 SALAT. It’s my favourite! The sticky rice and kaya Little Baba together are just so good…like having ALEXANDER two desserts at the same time. HOBBIES: CONNOR Drawing, playing with CHUA Lego, playing HOBBY: 12 video games Playing Brawl HOBBIES: Stars Playing Little Baba basketball, darts, skateboarding, art BRYAN SEET and computer games 10 My parents forced me to come.. I think Little Baba they are Peranakan.. can CHRISTOPHER My grandma (Nyonya I go back to my Brawl JUSTIN author Josephine Chia) Stars game now? taught me how to play congkak. CHUA This is a wooden boat-shaped board with holes and we use marbles or seeds to play. I really like playing it with her because she showed me how to win! My favourite snack OUT MORE A D BO is KUEH PIE TEE. IN U HOBBY: F T

O JU T Table Tennis E N I When I grow up, I want to invent something to Little Baba 8 D O O R HOBBY: C M

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threw a ball into a dustbin, C CHUA S I picked it up and kept it. My happiest days are when there’s no homework. I don’t like it when my sister Amelia annoys me.

KUEH CHANG is my favourite food! I like the sticky rice. 11 Little Baba EMMANUEL NG

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NYONYA JOANNE MODERNISING THE TAN-DE ZILVA SPEAKS TO NYONYA JADE LIM, FOUNDER OF JAZELLE CO. A HANDMADE JEWELLERY BUSINESS WITH PERANAKAN ROOTS MANEK Photos courtesy of Jade Lim. HEN SHE’S NOT BUSY important things other than clothing nyonyas who still sew kasot manek today, treating sick animals, or and jewellery that a woman must pay the art of bead weaving has somewhat Wlooking after her family, attention to. Brows have to be neat been lost among our community. veterinarian Nyonya Jade Lim crafts and well-drawn, blush should be used Learning and practising bead handmade beaded jewellery as a tribute sparingly and lipstick is a must”. weaving made me even more connected to her Peranakan heritage. Her hobby She would always don the sarong to my heritage, which is why I named has become a thriving business. She kebaya for special occasions. She had this collection “Truly Peranakan”. works with precious stones and seed many different sets in all colours, with For the “Bliss” collection, which is beads to create beautiful, intricate, jewellery to match. She would have a a series of beaded charms, I wanted to modern jewellery that is affordable and new set tailor-made for occasions like create something that would appeal to highly wearable. for weddings or for her grandchildren’s younger Peranakans, something they Using a bead weaving technique, graduation ceremonies. could wear everyday that would remind Jade has transformed manek manek Her passing made me even more them of their heritage. (seed beads) into contemporary pieces driven to continue my bead weaving These charms are made using Delica of jewellery that can be customised work as I want to ensure that my kids beads which are flatter than the beads to suit the wearer’s mood. The pieces will learn about their great-grandma’s used in the ‘Truly Peranakan’ range, so are interchangeable, giving the wearer pride in her culture. that the centre of the charm can be easily countless options to play with. (Scan removed from the toggle and changed to the QR code at the end of this article to JT-DZ: JAZELLE CO’S PERANAKAN- a different design. This range has been watch how the pieces can be used.) INSPIRED COLLECTIONS, “TRULY very popular with younger clients. Inspired by her late grandmother’s PERANAKAN” AND “BLISS” ARE ALL HANDMADE USING BEAD WEAVING. Peranakan heritage, her collections JT-DZ: WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT THE PERANAKAN-INSPIRED ITEM THAT YOU feature intricate pendants, bangles TECHNIQUE USED? and necklaces reminiscent of nyonya HAVE CREATED AND WHY? beadwork. Jade’s grandmother, Nyonya JL: ‘Truly Peranakan’ is a frameless JL: The “Enchanted” bangle with Grace Ho, passed away at 90 years old pendant that takes about 6.5 hours of in 2019 after Jade’s twins were born. interchangeable charms. I particularly continuous bead weaving to complete. enjoy wearing a nice piece of jewellery These pendants are made with Japanese Joanne Ta n -De Zilva (JT-DZ): YOU on my wrist because it is somehing you Toho seed beads. I wanted to create can look at when it’s worn, compared to STARTED YOUR JEWELLERY LINE, JAZELLE something that was closely related to CO. WITH PRECIOUS STONES. WHAT MADE say a pair of earrings. The wrist is also YOU CREATE A PERANAKAN-INSPIRED nyonya beadwork. What I didn’t realise something people will notice when you BEADWORK COLLECTION? was how tedious and stressful it is on gesticulate. the eyes! In the past, our nyonya ancestors Jade Lim (JL): I was looking at my JT-DZ: WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO ACHIEVE mother’s Peranakan display cabinet, commonly used glass seed beads to WITH YOUR PERANAKAN-INSPIRED which was passed down from my sew kasot manek. The beadwork COLLECTIONS? grandmother. It suddenly hit me that technique used on shoes is my children won’t know much about quite different from bead JL: My goal is to incorporate Peranakan our Peranakan heritage if I don’t weaving. Bead weaving flavour into pieces of modern jewellery. pass it on. I felt an urgent need was used to make This way, Singaporeans and even to do something related to items like curtain ties, tourists might be interested to learn my heritage for my kids to fringes and decorative about our culture. see as they are growing up. hangings. In bead Hopefully, it will get them weaving, the interested in the culture. beads are not My grandmother was a sewn onto MORE INFORMATION ABOUT JADE’S lady who took great pride in any fabric. CREATIONS CAN BE FOUND ON JAZELLE CO’S her appearance, especially The entire INSTAGRAM PAGE AND with what she wore and item itself is WEBSITE. accessorising her outfits made of just instagram with jewellery. One of beads woven JAZELLE.CO SCAN THE QR CODE her favourite sayings together. website TO WATCH HOW THE was, “When getting While there JAZELLE.CO PIECES CAN BE USED dressed, there are three are some

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don't confess, I will not go to heaven.” “Por Por, confess what? Do you want a priest?” Diana asked anxiously, concerned that the pain had AN ORIGINAL SHORT STORY made her grandmother delirious. WRITTEN BY AWARD-WINNING AUTHOR, NYONYA JOSEPHINE “I can't keep the secret anymore! I need to (DESTINY) CHIA SPECIALLY FOR THE confess to you to die in peace…” PERANAKAN MAGAZINE. “Diana, your mother did not abandon Illustrations by Benedict Khoo you…she…” Jennifer's words were halted by another JODOH spasm of pain. “She wanted to take you with her. But your father submitted false affidavits that IANA CHOI-LUMIERE SKIED down “I'll get on the next flight out,” Diana said. claimed she was a bad mother. We wanted the gently undulating snow-covered When Louis came in, his face was flushed from his you for ourselves. We…we couldn't bear mountain in Hokkaido, in sheer joy. exertions down a Black Diamond piste. He was losing you.” Her husband Louis, who acquired thrilled to have conquered a piste that had been “What?!” Diana exclaimed, not his ski legs in his native French Alps used for the Winter Olympics some years back. As expecting to hear this. Dpreferred the more challenging black or even he was taking off his gloves, Diana hurriedly told All her life, she had hated her double-black diamond pistes. But she herself him the news. mother for deserting her. Her father and enjoyed the green trail where she could relax and “But there's no reason why you should all grandmother had told her repeatedly simply revel in the beautiful snowscape rather than come back with me,” Diana quickly added. “The that her mother, Angelina Tan, did not frightening herself to death on the difficult, steep kids' snowboarding lessons have been paid for. love her and did not want her. They told runs. As a lawyer, she had enough ups-and-downs Plus Por Por is not exactly your favourite person.” Diana that her mother abandoned her when at work, so she didn't need more on her holiday. “You know why,” Louis said, “I don't like the she was five years old to start a new life with She loved the sight of the fir trees, their boughs way she manipulates you.” another man. laden with heavy snow. “But she raised me,” Diana sighed. The insecurities Diana had suffered as a child The snow scene felt very “The less said the better,” stemmed from being abandoned. She clung to her Christmassy. Their twin girls, Louis said in a resigned voice. grandmother with a fierce devotion because she But after years of listening to Por Por and Pa telling her that her mother had abandoned her, Diana Marie and Sophie, were with “POR POR, I'M HERE,” “But I'll go back with you if you was afraid that she too would leave her. their snowboarding instructor want because I want to support began to believe the lie and started to hate her. DIANA SAID GENTLY, Diana felt as if she had been hit with a in a special class for ten-year- you.” sledgehammer. The enormity of Por Por's revelation Now Por Por was resurrecting her tormented olds. They were all scheduled to AS SHE PUT HER “No, darling. The girls will was too much to take. Diana slumped in the chair, feelings but with a changed premise. The hostility meet up for lunch at the log- HAND ON HER be disappointed. I insist that you gasping, as if she was deprived of air. she felt for her mother was based on a lie! cabin restaurant half-way up the GRANDMOTHER'S all finish the holiday,” Diana said. “I did it out of love for you. Diana stood up abruptly. mountain before they resumed Aunty May picked Diana up Now I need to hear you say you Jennifer pulled at her wrist. WITHERED ARM. “Diana, say that you'll their afternoon of skiing. from Changi Airport and drove will forgive me so that I can die DIANA FELT Arriving early, Diana took her straight to Mount Sinai, in peace,” Jennifer begged. forgive me, please! I did what off her skis and planted them Singapore's top private hospital. “Love? What kind of love TRAPPED. was best for you.” upright in the mound of snow outside the restaurant Diana's father, Patrick Choi had got his mother a would deprive me of my own HERE WAS THE Diana felt trapped. Here and found herself a table on the outside balcony First Class single room. mother!” Diana screamed. WOMAN WHO was the woman who had so she could watch Louis and the girls on their When Diana entered the spacious room that Trillions of thoughts rushed brought her up, on her death- approach towards the cabin. She took pleasure looked more like a hotel suite, she saw her father's through her mind. Had her HAD BROUGHT bed…but she had also lied to her in recognising their bright ski-suits and the trail other sister, Betty, holding her mother's hand. whole life been a lie? HER UP, ON HER for her whole life. they cut coming downhill. Meanwhile, she logged Although she had been heavily sedated with DEATH-BED… “I must go and see Pa,” onto the restaurant's wifi and checked her phone morphine, Jennifer Choi was groaning in agony. Diana said in as cool a voice. She important messages and emails. She noticed several The pain was unbearable. er father and BUT SHE HAD didn't want to say anything she missed calls from Aunty May in Singapore and was “Aiiyoh! Aiiyoh!! This is my punishment,” the grandmother believed ALSO TO HER would regret later. alarmed. So, she immediately called her back. old lady cried out. that after they cut FOR HER WHOLE Patrick Choi's legal firm “Sorry to disturb you on holiday,” Aunty Diana was shocked by her grandmother's weak Angelina out of Diana's was located at the new suites Hlife completely, she would LIFE. of Chambers at Maxwell Road. May said. “Your Por Por (grandmother) is back in appearance and tortured face. hospital. Another relapse. She's in a lot of pain. “Por Por, I'm here,” Diana said gently, as she eventually forget her mother Diana stormed into her father's Doctor thinks that this time, she will not make put her hand on her grandmother's withered arm. because she was so young. office, which was down the it. She seems very troubled and keeps saying she “Thank God you're here!” Jennifer said with But she didn't. The little she remembered of corridor from her own, her high heels clacking must see you. Can you come back straight away?” imploring eyes; then turned to hiss at her two her mother lingered in her mind. She missed her on the tiles. His assistant tried to stop her but she It must have been very serious for Aunty May daughters. “Leave us! I need to talk to Diana alone.” mother's soft hands caressing her brow as she sang barged in nonetheless. Her father was seated in his to request her return. Diana's ninety-three-year-old With puzzled looks, the two ladies left the room. her to sleep. She missed the scent of the bedak sejok high-backed leather chair his sparse hair combed paternal grandmother, Jennifer Choi, had raised “I'm being punished. I'm being punished,” (cosmetic powder) she used, her voice, her laughter. over carefully to hide his bare scalp. her ever since she was five; after her own mother Jennifer lamented. After her mother left, she cried herself to sleep “How could you have done this to me?” Diana had abandoned her. “All this pain is tearing my insides out. If I for so many nights. barked at her father as she slammed the door shut.

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“I need to know the truth! Now!” would she have suffered? She left because she she had bought while on holiday “What, what, what?” He stammered, wanted another man. It was her choice!” in Melaka. She glanced round her unprepared for her emotional assault. “I cannot believe that you're so obtuse! She left living room, and saw that there Diana spilled out her grandmother's words. YOU Pa! Not me! She WANTED me! But you and were many pieces of nyonyaware “Your mother was unfaithful. She betrayed Por Por stopped her!” Diana yelled as she stormed and Peranakan objects on display. me!” Patrick said in defence. “What kind of life out of her father's office. That was incredible! It dawned on would you have had with her and that man? I did “If he was not my father, I would have wrung her that although she hadn't known it to protect you!” his neck!” Diana she was half Peranakan, perhaps

“Or did you said afterwards at a deep level, she had connected

do it to get back WHAT'S THE BIG DEAL ABOUT BEING PERANAKAN to Louis during with the culture and had been at her? You of all “ ANYWAY? CHAP-CHENG (HALF-CASTE) PEOPLE! “ their video call. drawn to all things Peranakan. people should NEITHER HERE NOR THERE! BEING CHINESE IS NOT “Are you know about GOOD ENOUGH FOR YOU IS IT? okay? Your voice equal custody! sounds different,” t soothed her tremendously to In all the divorce Louis asked with realise this. But does collecting cases we've handled, we've always fought for both his usual concern. She had not been okay. She had Peranakan artefacts make her parents to have access to their children. And yet, gone home and howled in the privacy of her own Peranakan? How does one know you denied me this!” room. All those wasted years. that one is a Peranakan and not He brooded silently for a while as she went on But a new thought had emerged in her mind, IChinese? What really constitutes with her tirade. “I've not been abandoned. My mother loved me!” being a Peranakan? Would wearing “Alright! Alright!” Patrick said. “I was angry “I'm okay now,” she said to Louis. “The a sarong kebaya turn her into a with her and wanted to punish her.” revelation was just so shocking. It took a while to nyonya? Must she know how to “Have you not even considered that you were digest the news. I've hired a private investigator to cook buah keluak? also punishing me? All my life, I grew up believing locate my mother. I miss you, darling. I can't wait She decided to do a quick I was not good enough to be loved by my own for all of you to be back.” search online and was astonished mother! That she just dumped me and walked “How's your grandmother?” to learn that there were not only away! Do you know how much pain you've caused “Still alive,” Diana said coldly. Peranakan Chinese but Peranakan me? In fact, she did try to see me, didn't she?” After their call, Diana was about to turn on Indians as well. She knew so little and hungered to “Yes,” Patrick said so softly, it could hardly be heard. the TV to de-stress, when she noticed the kamcheng learn much more about the heritage that had been “What's that you say? I want to hear it aloud.” kept from her. At least, now, they had re-connected. “Alright! Alright! Yes! Yes! She begged to see you.” It was not a dead culture. Far from it, Angelina expressed regret at their lost years but “How could you be so heartless to deny a Peranakan culture was still alive did not convey any sense of blame young mother from seeing her child? I remember and thriving. Various organisations or resentment towards her ex- were doing their best to showcase husband. telling you that there was a woman in a sarong WHAT the culture through multiple Diana decided to meet her kebaya lurking outside my kindergarten and REALLY primary school trying to get my attention, and you ways - The Peranakan Museum, mother on her own first before CONSTITUTES said I was imagining it.” Baba Nyonya conferences, books, introducing her family. They had “Yes, that was your mother. She's Peranakan.” magazines and entertainment BEING A swapped photos and stories via “You mean to say that all this while, I'm half through dramatic plays and songs. PERANAKAN? WhatsApp. She had learnt that A feeling of pride rose in Diana. her mother's second husband had Peranakan and you didn't even tell me? You've WOULD WEARING These were her people! Her culture! succumbed to cancer. robbed me of my heritage!” A SARONG KEBAYA “What's the big deal about being Peranakan She wanted to get involved and play Angelina was anxious to see TURN HER INTO anyway? Chap-cheng (half-caste) people! Neither an active part in keeping the culture her daughter and invited her to her here nor there! Being Chinese is not good enough alive. On impulse, she signed herself A NYONYA? MUST flat in Bedok. Diana's heart was for you is it?” and her daughters up as members of SHE KNOW HOW thumping as she rang the doorbell. the various Peranakan associations. A white-haired woman in sarong TO COOK BUAH It was part of their heritage too. kebaya opened the door, and for a iana recognised her father's typical “Marie and Sophie must not be KELUAK? moment, Diana was stunned. lawyer's strategy of acting defensive deprived of their heritage as I was,” In her mind's eye, her mother and jumping to another topic more she thought. was still the pretty young woman advantageous to him. When the private investigator she had hired she remembered from her childhood, with long, D “Don't try to evade the issue Pa! How can you finally located her mother, Diana didn't even know shiny black hair that Diana liked to twirl around. go to church every Sunday, knowing that you if she would be welcomed. She finally plucked up Yet, there was a familiarity about the elderly have ruined lives? My mother's and mine!” the courage to call her. lady which could not be erased. Diana caught a “Why is your life ruined? You have Angelina Tan was overjoyed, choking on whiff of the scent of of bedak sejok. She was surpised everything a girl would want. I gave you emotion as she spoke to her long lost daughter that after all these decades, her mother still relied everything. A comfortable life, a good on the phone. Both women shed tears over the on her favourite cosmetic, a fermented rice-based education and you'll inherit this prestigious years of estrangement. They had so many years to powder used to cool and whiten the skin. law firm. What more do you need? And why bridge. So much pain to knit over. “Oh sayang!” Angelina cried, using the

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Peranakan endearment. “I have grand-daughters, my twin girls, Marie and Sophie. my actions. His love for you never wavered.” dreamt of this day for years!” They are ten this year.” Angelina took Diana in her arms once more. “Hello…. Mum….” Diana Angelina's eyes teared, “I have missed so much!” Diana was taken back to her childhood days when stammered, as though the word “I'm sorry I didn't make more effort to find she had smelled the scent of her mother's bedak had rusted in the throat. out the truth. I hate my father and grandmother for sejok, the security of her mother's warmth, so “You can't imagine how long I deceiving me…” intimately close to her. have yearned to hear you say that,” “No! Never hate! Hate and anger are very Angelina said, weeping with sheer corrosive! See what they have done to you because ithout doubt now, she could feel her happiness. “At last I get to hear it of it? The Buddha once said, Anger is like holding a mother's love pouring into her. A before I go to my grave!” hot coal in your hand and you are waiting to throw great weight had been lifted from Without hesitation, she folded it at somebody but you are the first to get burnt.” her heart and now she felt healed. Diana into her arms. Diana had not “I have missed you so much Mum!” W Diana drove to Balestier for that special tau sa been hugged like this since she was “And I you. I wanted my piah that her Por Por loved. a child, enveloped in her mother's love for you to be a beacon that The bakery was famous for love. It took her by such surprise brought you home to me. There it's deliciously light and flaky that she was completely unhinged is so much for you to learn about Teochew sweet bean-cakes. and wept uncontrollably. Angelina our Peranakan culture, but take “ There was a long queue as soothed her daughter's brow and it slowly. Yes, I can put you ANGER IS LIKE usual, but it was worth the wait uttered comforting words. in touch with someone who's to see the happy expression on Angelina's flat felt cosy. It was teaching Baba Malay.” HOLDING A her grandmother's face. With tastefully decorated with colourful “The moment I found out all the medicine that she had Peranakan mosaic tiles, scattered I was Peranakan, I joined the HOT COAL to consume, a sweet bean-cake with items like an old tempat various associations and made would help take away the sireh (betel nut chewing kit) and a my children members too!” IN YOUR HAND bitterness from her mouth. beautiful antique pintu pagar (half “That's marvellous! You are When Diana walked into her height fence doors) which cordoned sixth generation Peranakan in AND YOU ARE grandmother's hospital room, her off the corridor to the rooms. our family. Your children will be father and aunts were there. The WAITING TO THROW Angelina had prepared a longan and seventh…” old lady's face lit up when she red date tea with some kueh-kueh saw her cherished granddaughter. “They're half French. My IT AT SOMEBODY, for her very special guest. husband is a French doctor.” “I've met up with my “I can't wait to meet them.” BUT mother,” Diana said.

iana was astonished when her mother “You were only a child. They poisoned your “Oh, Mum,” Diana said, Everyone fell silent and froze

showed her one of the rooms. It was a mind. I'm relieved that we got to meet at last.” reaching out to embrace her YOU ARE THE FIRST in fearful anticipation, as if a memorial of sorts to her, packed with “Sayang, there's a Peranakan proverb that goes: mother. “I used to feel that part time-bomb was about to explode. all her childhood things that Angelina of me was hollow. Now, I've TO GET BURNT“ The tension eased when Diana had salvaged. become whole. I've finally found smiled and said, “Por Por, Pa, I Asam di atas gunong D Tears rolled down her cheeks as Diana sifted you and my real roots.” understand that whatever you did, through the stacks of letters and gift-wrapped Garam di dalam laut Diana was worried that you did out of love for me.” boxes that her mother had sent her over the Kalau ada jodoh Angelina would ask her to “Now I can die in peace,” years but had been returned by her father and Jumpa juga di dalam periok.” cut off ties with her father and her grandmother sighed. grandmother. Her mother had been trying to keep grandmother for their cruelty, but surprisingly, she “What's all this talk about dying,” Diana said. in touch with her all these years! “What does it mean?” Diana asked. was magnanimous. “See what I bought for you Por Por.” Angelina only had a single photo of Diana “Tamarind on the mountain “Life is not black and white,” Angelina said. As Diana opened the box, the fragrance and herself which had yellowed with age but was Salt in the sea “Just because you love me doesn't mean you can't of freshly baked tau sar piah filled the air. Her placed in an ornate silver frame. Patrick did not If it is destiny love your father and grandmother as well. There is grandmother's rheumy eyes gleamed with allow her to take any family albums when they no need to cut off a limb to spite your face. They're pleasure. We will meet in a cooking pot. split, and later destroyed every single photo of her, still your family. Without them, you cannot be truly including those with Diana. whole. Though I cannot condone their behaviour Diana suddenly realised how nasty her father “You see the tamarind tree grows far away, like in cutting me off from you, I have to accept that my and grandmother had been. Their cruel vendetta on a mountain. Yet in our Peranakan dishes, like choice of another man angered and hurt them.” lasted decades. She was so touched when Angelina Assam Pedas, the tamarind will unite with the salt “I have incurred this karma for myself. I fell in NYONYA JOSEPHINE CHIA showed her the tiny powder pink pyjamas she had that comes from the sea. So, it means that if it is love with someone else. That was solely my fault, IS AN AWARD-WINNING AUTHOR WHO HAS preserved all these years, a mother's desperate jodoh (destiny), you will meet, no matter how far my doing. But I never chose to leave you.” PUBLISHED 13 BOOKS. SHE WON THE SINGAPORE link to her little girl. How her mother must have apart you are.” “Ultimately, it was you who had to suffer the pain LITERATURE PRIZE (NON- suffered! She was ashamed that she had hated her “So, we are like the tamarind and the salt,” and loss. For that, my sayang, I am deeply sorry.” FICTION) IN 2014. mother without finding out the truth for herself. Diana said thoughtfully. “Is there anyone teaching “Was my father bad to you? Is that why you left?” FIND OUT MORE ABOUT HER WORK AT “How could I have been so wrong?” Baba Malay? I want to learn. For my kids too. Oh, “That is between your father and I. He knows WWW.JOSEPHINECHIA.COM “It's not your fault.” Angelina said. I haven't told you that you've got two beautiful why I had to go. I will not disparage him to justify

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HE CHEPAT (FAST) NEWS throat. Swee Neo shifts in her seat “Bibik Wee, can you tell us more Network (CNN) logo flashes uncomfortably, discreetly raising a about the symptoms of this virus?” across the screen. A smart handkerchief to cover her face. The bibik clears her throat again. The PINTU looking anchorwoman tugs on “We call it Kopi-19. Why? Because anchorwoman frowns, inching away Ther suit lapels and smooths down the some Baba Nyonya have been behaving ever so slightly. DOOR creases on her blouse. as though they have gulped down 19 “Kalu lu ada (if you have) Kopi-19, CORN “Good evening. I'm Nyonya Swee cups of kopi (coffee)! They rush out to the first symptom is an uncontrollable JAGONG RED Neo. Today on Mulot Tak Mati (The the shops and panic buy toilet paper, urge to panic buy. Especially after the Mouth Never Dies) we have a special kueh kueh, buah keluak…everything! Prime Matriarch makes a public address. MERAH guest from the Ministry of Peranakan to I simply cannot understand this People stampede to Until-Lu-Si, Sing discuss the dire situation that has been irrational behaviour. Peranakan people Song and Besair (Giant) to panic buy all affecting many of our Baba Nyonya have no use for toilet paper, tau tak sorts of things. This is deadly. You might BABA BRYAN TAN brethren. Bibik Wee, thank you for (don't you know)? We use our left hand si (die) from being penat (exhausted), lari TAKES SOME OF BIBIK taking time off your busy schedule to be and some water to chebok pantat (wash sini lari sana (running here and there). The WEE'S ADVICE ON with us.” our bums). older babas and nyonyas are susceptible HOW TO WEATHER An immaculately dressed lady pats You can't hoard kueh kueh, because to this, badan dia tak boleh tahan (their AN EMBARRASSING her sanggol (hair bun) and adjusts her kueh doesn't stay fresh for more than a bodies cannot take the strain).” BEHAVIOURAL PANDEMIC batik tulis (hand drawn batik) facemask. day or two. Everyone knows that! “What are the another symptoms?” Illustration by James Tan “Hello everyone. I am Bibik Wee, Senior I assure you all, Babas and “Oh, that's very easy to spot – spreading Director Bibik in the Prime Matriarch's Nyonyas, that we have more than fake news! You know very well, that we Office (PMO). It is my pleasure to be enough buah keluak* in our national at the Ministry have enacted the Merepek here, kamsiah banyak (many thanks) for stockpile to last for months. (*Buah (nonsense) Bill to prevent falsehoods having me at CNN.” keluak is the poisonous seed of the from spreading. Read only official news “Bibik Wee, from the Ministry's pangium edule tree used to make a from our ApaApp (WhatsApp) and perspective, what can you tell us about popular Peranakan dish.) Many years Ministry channels.” this pandemic which has swept the ago, the Ministry had the foresight “Thank you for enlightening us, Bibik nation into a crisis?” Bibik Wee adjusts to diversify our suppliers so that we Wee. Are there any other symptoms?” her glasses surreptitiously. will never run short of this precious “Yes, ada satu lagi (there is one “You know, we must try to avoid commodity. We even have suppliers in more). Those who have Kopi-19 have using alarming words like 'crisis'. We Papua New Guinea. difficulty staying away from other

IF THEY COME NEAR, TELL THEM JANGAN DEKAT (STAY AWAY) AND SHOW ONE FINGER TO THEM TO INDICATE ONE METRE. YOU CAN USE WHATEVER FINGER YOU WANT.

at the Ministry call it the 'CB' – Chochok ll of you need to calm down. people and they refuse to wear masks. Banyak, many little pricks which cause Every single day, my colleagues They will get very close to others and us some pain, but nothing that can't be and I are inundated with cough and sneeze in their faces. Geli gua swiftly dealt with. reports of panic buying all over (I'm disgusted)! They do not heed any of Yes, we understand that the situation Athe island. Aiyoh! Because of this, gua the safe distancing measures and claim can be very frustrating for our citizens, betol tak senang tau, pantat chebok tak habis they are sovereign. What madness is but to date, not a single one has asked for (I have been so busy that I don't even this? The only sovereign we recognise is an apology. Doesn't that prove that we have time to wash my bum)! We have the Queen of England! are doing an excellent job of handling the had to mobilise the army to re-stock the The Ministry sua kata (has already CB? The Ministry is doing its best to thau supermarket shelves overnight! Those said) that everyone must stand or sit at tak (manage) this problem, but it seems poor botak (bald) boys haven't had a least one meter apart, and always wear a like this strange behavioural pandemic is proper night's sleep in weeks.” mask. If they come near, tell them jangan here to stay for a while.” A photo showing rows of empty dekat (stay away) and show one finger Swee Neo nods in agreement. shelves in an Until-Lu-Si supermarket to them to indicate one metre. You can “Is that why the nationwide Sial appears on the screen behind Bibik Wee. use whatever finger you want. It is also Sekali (deadly embarrassing) Alert was “Empty, you see!” useful if you are being pestered to take raised from orange to red?” “Pintu Jagong Merah means surveys or buy insurance.” “Ya, betol juga. (Yes, precisely.) everyone should stay at home and The anchorwoman nods sagely and As such, the Ministry has declared a put a ear of corn painted red on their turns to the camera. state of Pintu Jagong Merah (Door Corn door. This is to remind us that our “That's all the time we have for Red). Everyone is encouraged to dudok supermarkets are well stocked and there now. Thank you so much for the rumah (stay at home) to avoid becoming is no need to be gila (crazy). If you go information Bibik Wee.” infected with the virus.” out to a crowded place and meet more “Not at all, kamsiah banyak banyak “Could you explain what is this than five people, you might catch the (thank you very much)! Everyone, don't virus about?" Bibik Wee clears her Kopi-19 virus.” forget to wear your masks!”

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COUPLE OF YEARS AGO, a contradiction to their religion. Socially, while chatting over the dinner like at parties, there is rarely the luxury table with a dear friend, Baba of space or time for communal home GT Lye, what he said stunned cooking unlike the old days, where our Ame right down to the gerago in my sambal embok embok would come together to cook n belachan. As any baba or nyonya who love up a feast while they melatah and gossip. chia orang kah their food would tell you, if you do not The tok panjang of old meant placing know how to eat sambal belachan, you are consecutive sets of 14-15 dishes across not a Peranakan. a very long table at one sitting. Now, ( HAVING A PARTY OR PRAYERS?) semayang “Linda, do you know that babi pongteh entertaining guests is to sit around a ? and chap chye are laok semayang (prayer smaller dining table or at restaurants where dishes)? They are not for celebrations.” we select from standard menus. By and NYONYA LINDA CHEE SERVES UP I was piqued. Both my beloved large, the traditional symbolism of our food THE DIFFERENCES parents were Peranakans from Melaka – culture has given way to pragmatism. BETWEEN CELEBRATION the land of my sambal belachan heritage, Addressing the concern of what to AND ANCESTRAL WORSHIP FOODS tracing back nine generations. How could serve and when, I consulted cousin Cedric All photographs by Colin Chee. Food styling by Linda Chee. I not know? I had grown up without again. Compared with Singapore, food questioning what my mother dished out traditions are still very much a living every year for Chinese New Year, or for culture practised by the bigger Peranakan praying to our ancestors, the gods, and communities up north. for birthdays and weddings. Neither did she tell me. My mini-identity crisis resurfaced IN THE MELAKA TRADITION, THE GENERAL RULE FOR JOYOUS when I consulted my cousin from Kuala OR FESTIVE OCCASIONS Lumpur, Baba Cedric Tan, the Melaka- IS TO SERVE DISHES WITH: born authority on our culture, on what was popiah. “Oh, it's a snack.” More EXPENSIVE ingredients like crabs, prawns What? This grand treat of all treats or heepio (fish maw) was just a snack? I confess I take much pride to FIERY RED REMPAH as in sambal dishes (laok merah) be born a jati Peranakan. But it was a for its auspicious colour. In this case, rempah gerang asam and rempah chilli bawang (or titek), humbling experience to be that ignorant using red chillies. Ayam buah keluak is cooked of tradition. Asking around, I realised I with rempah gerang asam, thus it is a 'red' festive dish despite its almost blackened gravy. It has was not alone. Poring over recipe books become acceptable as a prayer dish did not tell me much. I concluded that gathering data on our food culture, ROAST MEATS like roast as opposed to passing down recipes, chicken, which I think must be our Anglophile leanings, or remains very much an oral tradition. crackling roast pork The lines too have blurred on this huge gastronomic aspect of our culture. The appropriate birthday dish is telor meesua or egg with vermicelli in rock sugar, served first Especially in fast-paced Singapore, thing in the morning to the person on his or many Peranakans have married out her birthday. of the community, are chasing more SAMBAL And oh, popiah is a festive snack. TIMUN worldly pursuits with education and travel, or ancestral worship has become

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Prayer Dishes Celebration Dishes

Laok semayang or prayer foods, are laid You will not go wrong with this non- out plentifully on the altar table for exhaustive list of celebration dishes: ancestral worship or to the gods. They appear dull or sombre, mostly brownish. PORK: Satay babi, sek bak (bottom right) , babi asam This is because taucheo, or salted garam, babi asam, ngoh hiang, kua hee pio fermented soy beans, is a key ingredient. CHICKEN: Ayam (or tulang babi) buah keluak, chicken curry, satay ayam, ayam panggang

The 'feast' includes itek tim, itek sio, babi SAMBAL SEAFOOD: Sambal udang petai (top right), udang masak sio, pong tauhu, babi pong teh, ayam chin, UDANG nanas, udang goreng asam, bakwan kepiting, ikan goreng asam PETAI babi chin, tee hee char rebong, chak bek, hati babi bungkus, kua perot babi masak VEGETABLE: Terong pachelis, lobak masak lemak pek kuay, chap chai, chap chai bulat, char STAPLES: Telor meesua, nasi ulam, nasi kemuli, nasi kunyit, angkuak and mee nyonya. The main nasi lemak, macaroni soup courses are served in multiples of four SIDE DISHES AND APPETISERS: Sambal timun, bowls (laok mangkok) and crowned sambal jantong pisang, egg salad, sambal belachan, achar, with spring onion florets. chili chuka, luak chai, asam sinting, chinchalok

Misconceptions or seeming contradictions are inevitable Contradictions as no one family practises exactly like another over time:

For practical reasons, The mundane- Babi asam is a Mee nyonya with its some festive dishes looking chap chye festive dish that accompanying rojak like ayam buah keluak is often served on can 're-use' the timun nanas (cucumber and pineapple relish) and chicken curry the first day of the cooked slab of are served at both the is not a celebration Lunar New Year to belly pork after it reunion dinner and counter the richness or birthday dish. It is for ancestral worship of the grand has been offered served during funeral on the eve of the reunion feast the for ancestral wakes and after Lunar New Year. night before. worship. prayers. SEK BAK

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Ingredients continued 1 big onion, sliced thinly 2 pieces asam keping (tamarind skin) 1 big knob asam jawa or tamarind pulp, dissolved in half a cup of water and strained ½ cup oil From 2 tbsp palm sugar 1 tsp salt Rempah chili bawang 10 dried chillies, soaked in hot water One Generation 3 fresh chillies 30g garlic to Another 300g shallots To mark the 120th Anniversary of The Peranakan Association Singapore, 1 slice belachan 2 buah keras or candlenuts (optional) Linda Chee shares three traditional celebration recipes pinch of salt for a balanced meal. These family recipes were passed down from her Melaka-born grandmother, Tan Poh Neo, Method to her mother, Low Suan Neo, and then to her in the agak-agak (estimate) Sambal Udang Remove some seeds from the chillies if you prefer your sambal tradition of Peranakan cooking. She has measured to be less fiery. Grind all rempah ingredients together finely. the ingredients but the final arbiter is your own taste buds. SHRIMP & STINKBEAN Petai IN CHILLI GRAVY Heat the oil in a wok over high heat. When slightly smoky, pour in the rempah and stir constantly. If necessary, add more This dish uses the basic rempah chili bawang. You can substitute oil to fry well. Lower to medium fire and stir until the rempah the prawns with hard boiled eggs. is fragrant and the oil separates from the mixture. If necessary, add water to the sides to prevent burning. Stir in the onions and Ingredients tamarind skin for 2-3 minutes. Add the tamarind water, sugar 1 kg medium-sized prawns, peeled and marinated and salt. Bring to boil and add the prawns. Simmer for 3 minutes Ingredients continued with some sugar and pepper until the prawns are just cooked, not overcooked. Stir in the 2 thumbs lengkuas or galangal, sliced 1 packet petai beans, optional petai then switch off the fire. Serve hot. 2 sticks kayu manis or cinnamon 5 pek kak or star anise 3/4 cup cooking oil 1 litre water 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced Ingredients continued 3-5 lemo perot or leprous lime leaves 3 lemo kasturi or limes Method 1/2 slice belachan 1 handful fresh chillies Marinate the pork with the soya sauce and salt. Heat the oil 1 tsp sugar (optional) in a wok over high heat. Fry the blended shallots, galangal, cinnamon and star anise and stir continuosly. When the shallot mix is fragrant, lower the heat to medium low. Method Rinse the dried prawns and cover in enough cold water. Add the pork strips. Stir to mix well and add the sugar. Fry for Leave to soften for about half an hour. Grind until semi- about 5 minutes. Add water to the sides to prevent burning. coarse. Cut the belly pork into 1- 1½-inch strips. In a small Pour in the water and raise the heat. Bring to boil then pot, add enough water to cover the pork, add a pinch of salt Sek Bak simmer over very low heat, with little bubbles appearing, for SPICED BRAISED PORK and bring to boil. Simmer for about half an hour over low about two hours or until the pork is very tender. Remove the Sambal Timun CUCUMBER SALAD heat till tender. Cool and slice thinly. Set aside. Keep the sweet Sek bak is rarely featured in recipe books. A traditional pork and set aside. Simmer the gravy to reduce it to a pouring stock for other purposes. ingredient is pig lung or teehee which is no longer available in sauce. Add the tofu puffs and braise for about 5 minutes to My late father, Louis Tan, loved the crunch of fresh cucumber Singapore wet markets. soak in the sauce. Test the pork with a fork or skewer. Add and would have it daily with his meals. On special occasions, Cut the taukwa into half and then cut again into thin slices. more sugar and salt to suit your taste; the gravy should be we would prepare a more elaborate cucumber salad with belly Fry lightly just to cook through with no crusty edges. Peel Ingredients sweet but not cloying. pork tossed in a sambal belachan mixture. and slice the cucumber lengthwise into quarters. Slice off the seeds. Slice diagonally. 1 kg samchien bak or belly pork, cut into 2 strips To plate the dish, cut the pork into thin slices. Cut the tofu 10 squares taupok or tofu puffs (the flattish type) puffs into four. Slice the eggs using sewing thread or unscented Ingredients Slice the torch ginger and leprous lime leaves very finely. 8 eggs, hard boiled unwaxed dental floss – tie one end to a fixed point and hold 1 medium-sized cucumber Pound or blend the chillies and belachan to make sambal 5 tbsp dark soya sauce the other end to slice. Lay the cucumber on the base or 200g sam chien bak or belly pork belachan. Squeeze the lime juice into the sambal. Mix in the 1 tsp salt around the plate. Lay the sek bak ingredients and ladle the 1 taukwa or soya bean cake (optional) sugar. Toss in the dried prawns, torch ginger and leprous 100g white rock sugar gravy across. Serve with chili chuka (see recipe from Dalam 2 tbsp heybee or dried prawns lime leaves. Mix in the cucumber, pork and taukwa. Serve 300g bawang merah or shallots, blended coarsely Dapor, Issue 2, 2019). 1 bud bunga kantan or pink torch ginger immediately while the cucumber is crunchy.

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Kuala Lumpur dan Selangor (PPBNKLS), nostalgic as the contributors reminisced the sell-out book is already into its third and shared colourful accounts of their OUR print. The publication was mooted by the childhood. Symbolic recipes are as association's then president, Cedric Tan, simple as the telur mee suah for grand “to leave a lasting legacy, a testament birthdays. Two dishes were unusual to AMEK MAMAS' to our respected female forebears who me. One is a Chitty Melaka ancestral ensured that we always had the most worship dish called Ikan Parang Masak delicious dishes at every meal.” Pindang (Wolf herring in a spicy, GAMBAR RECIPES I do not recall any other single sour creamy gravy). The other is a cookbook that has compiled such a Terengganu Peranakan celebration dish Taking Pictures: NYONYA LINDA CHEE REVIEWS A diversity of recipes from nyonyas who once called Chim Kue, which packs an ultra- COMPILATION OF TRADITIONAL PERANAKAN ruled the kitchens in Peninsular Malaysia, rich filling of crab meat and lard into the Peranakans & Photography DISHES FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS mainly from Melaka and Penang. crab shell for steaming, topped off with The Peranakan women of creamy egg yok and roe. NYONYA DAWN MARIE LEE REVIEWS THE COMPANION BOOK TO yesteryear not only had culinary There is an honest-to-goodness feel THE 2018 EXHIBITION AT THE PERANAKAN MUSEUM. Who cooks prowess but also dispensed wise about this publication. The recipes cover Photo courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum. counsel, good values and morals to home cooking for daily meals as well as best? Mama, those who adored their food and learnt occasions ranging from festivals, wakes how to cook from them. Notably, they and ancestral worship. A baby's full HIS LONG-AWAITED BOOK was published of course! also passed down to the younger moon (one month) in November 2020 without the pre-COVID-19 generation food traditions that till today is celebrated with fanfare that would usually accompany a tome of are being observed and practised. kueh koo merah, such importance. Amek Gambar – Taking Pictures: HIS EXCLAMATION RINGS As Cedric writes in his President's yellow rice and TPeranakans And Photography is a hefty, 420-page, hardcover loud and clear in Our Mamas' Message: “In a typical Baba-Nyonya red eggs. Perhaps tome that will delight anyone interested photography and life Recipes, a collection of fondly home, certain dishes are prepared the cookbook can in colonial Singapore and Southeast Asia. remembered dishes that stir up for specific events and a well-trained also be named It features rare photographs of Singapore and Peranakans Tmemories of how dear grandmother, Nyonya will never be caught with her Traditional from the 1800s to the 1900s. The book is a companion to the grandaunt or mother cooked them like apron down in this regard.” Anecdotes Peranakan Dishes exhibtion of the same name held at the Peranakan Museum from no one else could. An adjunctive “our” and footnotes are included to “avert for All Occasions. May 2018 to February 2019. Curated by Babas Peter Lee and in the book title lends a gentle tone of such faux pas”, so that the right Dominic Low, it featured a selection of the 2,500 photographs ownership to the recipes. dishes will be served with the proper WHERE TO BUY? donated by Mr and Mrs Lee Kip Lee to the museum. Produced in March 2020 to arrangement and conduct befitting of OUR MAMAS' RECIPES IS AVAILABLE AT RUMAH KIM CHOO, The book charts the early history of photography th POPULAR AND KINOKUNIYA BOOKSTORES. commemorate the 10 Anniversary of the occasion. ONLINE AT HTTPS://SINGAPORE.KINOKUNIYA.COM/ in Singapore, from European travellers Jules Itier, Fedor the Persatuan Peranakan Baba Nyonya Browsing through, I felt warmly Jagor, August Sachtler, G. R. Lambert, and John Thomson to pioneering Chinese and Japanese studios in the region. Informative essays and more than 400 photographs, ranging from the 1840s to 2009, make this book a valuable historical The Peranakan community used portraiture to fulfil resource, and fascinating to read. many social functions: as an expression of self, family, status, The arrival of photography in Singapore can be traced to community, ancestral and cultural rites. Detailed photos of the 1840s when French Customs Officer Jules Itier (1802-1877) elborate ancestral altars, playful photos of grown men on transited on the island for a month en route to a trade mission a see-saw, family and wedding portraits give the reader a in China. It is believed that the daguerreotype by Itier of Boat glimpse into the rich and diverse lives of the Peranakans. Quay along the Singapore River taken from Government Hill For me, one of the most intriguing photographs in this is oldest surviving image of Singapore. (Seen on pages 22 and book is the one of the fearless nyonya on page 295, looking 88 in the book.) absolutely confident and bold in nothing but her birthday An essay in this book by academic and visual artist Giles suit and iconic cucuk sanggol (hairpin). The platinum print is Massot relates a fascinating anecdote from Itier’s journal that believed to have been taken in Singapore around the 1910s. reveals how Singapore was already perceived as “clean and She is standing tall, looking directly at the camera, one hand efficient” in the 1840s: on hip and the other on her thigh. This image is a delightful contradiction to the popular perception of nyonyas of that era as meek, subservient and conservative. This photograph was 4 JULY 1844. ON THIS SHORE WHERE LESS on the cover of a 2014 issue of this magazine. THAN TWENTY YEARS AGO STOOD JUST A “ FEW MALAY HUTS, HALF FISHERMEN, HALF Perhaps it is the very hybridity of Peranakan culture which PIRATE, STANDS TODAY A GREAT CITY AND ITS accounts for the willingness to embrace new ideas and mediums. HARDWORKING POPULATION. HERE ARE THE Peter Lee writes: “Like many migrant communities in SUMPTUOUS PALACES AND THEIR GARDENS colonial urban environments, the Peranakans are characterised REACHING OUT TO THE SEASHORE; HERE THE by a broad, mixed, and fluent spectrum of cultural practices. EXPATRIATE COMES TO RELAX IN THE EVENING, They are also characterised by a broad spectra of social ALONE, WITHOUT WEAPON, SAFE FROM THE and commercial concerns. This kind of hybridity expressed TIGERS THAT HAVE RETREATED INTO THE through photography - itself such a hybrid medium - DISTANT JUNGLE AND THE MALAY BANDITS compounds the complexity of the relationship between CONTROLLED BY A VIGILANT POLICE CORPS. Peranakans and Photography. If one were to take the term “peranakan” beyond the conceptual realm of a community and use it as a The Peranakans were one of Asia’s earliest adopters of metaphor for the WHERE TO BUY? AMEK GAMBAR – TAKING PICTURES: PERANAKANS AND photography. As such this book provides a rich insight into hybrid, then in a PHOTOGRAPHY, EDITED BY PETER LEE IS PUBLISHED BY THE ASIAN CIVILISATIONS MUSEUM AND AVAILABLE AT THE how they presented and captured their personal and social sense, photography MUSEUM SHOP. ISBN: 978-981-14-2625-4 lives on film. is Peranakan.”

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Deer motif kerosang Bee motif kerosang BABA COLIN CHEE REVIEWS NYONYA IRENE LIM'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY WHICH UNFOLDS YEARS HER LIFE OF 90 YEARS IN SINGAPORE IN SINGAPORE

90EVER DID I imagine I would It is more the street story of a feisty that something would be lost if her story review an autobiography by a nyonya with a vivid and phenomenal were not told, has she told it. N90-year-old nyonya raised in memory, one who has lived through the At the urgings of her daughter, Singapore! Yet there I was, on a chilly passing ages of modern Singapore - as a Nyonya Professor Linda Lim, afternoon flipping through some 230 well-to-do British colony, as an occupied nonagenarian Irene started recording her pages of the book, compelled to pause territory during the Second World War, memories 30 years ago - starting in 1989 every now and then to reflect on rich as a self-ruled island and, later, as a - “bits and pieces about what I remember glimpses of Peranakan home life from fully-fledged independent nation which from the dim past..”. But it was her the early 1900s to the 2010s. came of age as one of the world's more encounter with Singapore historian Baba I heard whispers of local history prosperous city states. Dr Loh Kah Seng that got her to write from our pre-war days through to the Irene writes in the preface: “I have and publish her recollections. Japanese Occupation and into the roar always been interested in other people's Dr Loh writes in his prologue to the of Independence in the 1960s. I savoured personal stories and life experiences. I book, “Irene's story offers a glimpse of remembrances of street corners like listening to them in conversation… Singapore from the perspective of an and neighbourhoods from Katong Today, families do not seem to spend ordinary Singaporean.” Yet, a palpable to Geylang, Oxley Road to Upper much time together, especially across sadness threads through Irene's account Serangoon, then Holland Road and back generations. So many other activities, of Peranakan life. It sounds like a distant to the city's fringes right into the 2010s. including those available on electronic dirge for the passing of a once grand This is a book with an incredible devices, compete for scarce time. Thus, culture through the passage of time. minutiae of daily life of a Peranakan past ways of life are not shared, and Irene's daughter, Linda, adds in family through Singapore's formative they become lost and forgotten.” her epilogue to her mother's memoir, years. Interestingly, from the perspective Precisely “Nearly all of these tangible spaces of an upper middle-class English- because of have disappeared or been transformed educated nyonya. this deep beyond recognition, and with them the It is a difficult to put the concern intangible emotive echoes of Singapore's THE For author Norman, it is a lifetime project that nearly book down. It is in part rich and diverse history, heritage and never got off the ground. Several publishers had turned it revelation of street life identity. Recorded memories, like Irene's down, until Nyonya Chris Loh saw the design possibilities, during Singapore's and others', are nearly all we have left BEJEWELLED offered her services, and spurred him on. She is also the growing-up years, of how life was experienced by our publisher of the book. in part ghost stories, The author now ancestors, in this ever-changing place we LIVES OF THE Norman has a modest goal for self-publishing this in part Peranakan and as a child. call home.” coffee-table companion in both soft and hard covers, “I hope home culture with Fortunately for us, history has PERANAKANS this book will not only enlighten readers but will also inspire all its grandeur and shown, time and again, that as long as new collectors. While the vintage and antique pieces in my idiosyncracies, while a culture is lived and evolves adriotly 30-year-old collection do not represent the best or the rarest in relating the author's with changing circumstances while BABA COLIN CHEE LIKE BABA NORMAN CHO'S the range of Peranakan jewellery, it is an excellent showcase of family history all keeping to its roots, it can survive the REVIEWS COLLECTOR new book, The Bejewelled Lives of the items the Nyonyas would use to embellish themselves at the way to Kuala chaos of socio-economic changes. It can BABA NORMAN the Peranakans. It is honest and various stages of their lives.” Lumpur and even flourish. CHO'S BOOK unpretentious. The author makes I asked Norman if he ever worried that the jewellers of ON PERANAKAN Bukit Mertajam Ino claim to having published the next today would “borrow” the beautiful and perhaps “lost” designs JEWELLERY in Province best thing to Baba Edmond Chin's of some of his vintage pieces when they are published. He Wellesley! out-of-print but still much sought-after generously said it is for them to do what they will. This book pioneering tome on Peranakan jewellery, Gilding the Phoenix, Peranakan jewellery has been a facet of the author's is Nyonya released in 1991. cultural identity and heritage from a young age. He fondly Irene Lim's Yet it may just come close. In its own way. This potential is recalls his paternal grandmother, the late Madam Yeo Koon Singapore not lost to scholar curator Baba Peter Lee. He described it in his Neo, often calling him into her bedroom to pick the jewellery history since foreword as “…a jewel of a book that I believe will embellish she had strewn on the bed to be worn for an evening out. the early 1900s. SCAN THE QR CODE the understanding of general readers and specialists alike.” Norman's love affair for Peranakan It is based on her TO READ BABA COLIN The book boasts 220 gorgeous pages designed by jewellery started there and then. It is CHEE'S INTERVIEW T memories of her family my sister-in-law, Nyonya Chris Loh, with 300 sumptuous time we rekindle or start ours. WITH THE AUTHOR, BejewelledL   P and friends during our IRENE LIM. photographs of Norman's 400 jewellery pieces captured nation's almost forgotten meticulously by Baba Barry Ng. A few pieces, also showcased WHERE TO BUY? in the book, were contributed by collectors Nyonyas Bebe Seet eras. It is not the staid WHERE TO BUY? THE BEJEWELLED LIVES OF THE PERANAKANS musty story of a small and Chris Loh, and Babas Benjamin Seck and Roy Hui. The BY NORMAN CHO (2020) IS AVAILABLE AT KINOKUNIYA; 90 YEARS IN SINGAPORE (2020), PUBLISHED BY PAGESETTERS, TRUE BLUE CUISINE AND TRUE BLUE SPACE ON ARMENIAN little island as would IS AVAILABLE AT KINOKUNIYA BOOKSTORES AND OTHER design of the book is deliberately understated. This has made STREET; ASIAN ARTISTRY FINE JEWELLERY AT #01-246 JEWEL MAJOR BOOKSTORES. ONLINE AT KINOKUNIYA AND AND VIA CHANGI AIRPORT; RUMAH BEBE AT 113E EAST COAST ROAD; be told by scholastic SGBOOKSHELF AT HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/YB8QBTHQ it possible to display the full extravagance and opulence of the NORMAN CHO AND WEBSITE HTTP://THEBEJEWELLED.COM historians. bejeweled Baba Nyonya heritage.

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NYONYA DAWN MARIE LEE CELEBRATES ALL THAT IS GOLD, This 19th century mesh bracelet of gold, enamel and diamonds is from Aceh. WHITE AND BOLD IN THE ACM'S NEW GALLERIES All photos courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Goldsmithing in Aceh is centuries old. Historically, gold was mined in the Authentic Peranakan Tiles hills between Pidie and Meulaboh, west of Aceh. Fine filigree, granulation, enamelling and red staining of gold are exceptional hallmarks of Achenese jewellery. During Aceh’s golden age in the 16th and 17th centuries, royal ASTER BY KYRA RECOVERS ORIGINAL PERANAKAN patronage of the arts flourished, and 300 smiths were employed to make TILES FROM OLD BUILDINGS AND RESTORES THEM TO jewellery and other valuables. Gift of Mr Edmond Chin. BE SOLD INDIVIDUALLY OR AS WALL FEATURES. CUSTOMIZATION OF THESE TILES ARE ALSO WELCOME! HE ASIAN CIVILISATIONS MUSEUM (ACM), Singapore's premier museum of Asian antiquities and decorative art, unveiled re-vamped third floor galleries in 2020. T The third-floor galleries are focused on decorative art, and are collectively themed Materials and Design. The two new galleries, Fashion and Textiles, and Jewellery, together with the refreshed Ceramics gallery, comprise a display of over 36 TEMPLE STREET, SINGAPORE 058581 | WWW.ASTERBYKYRA.SG | TEL : 6684 8600 | OPEN DAILY FROM 11PM TO 6PM 300 precious and finely crafted masterpieces, telling stories of Asian identities, histories, and cultures. This early 20th century Peacock belt from the Straits Settlements has The Jewellery gallery is the first permanent gallery in the 18 linked panels with 75 carats of world to spotlight island Southeast Asian jewellery, exhibiting its diamonds. The buckle is detachable and can be worn as a brooch. It varied and complex styles, forms, and uses through a showcase was likely made by South Indian of objects from the Neolithic period to the 20th century. craftsmen, who are known for their The Fashion and Textiles gallery presents a diverse expertise in setting diamonds using the “a jour” technique (diamonds range of fashions and textiles through periodically changing set in hollow frames). This technique THE displays, showing how identities and cross-cultural exchanges reduces the amount of gold needed are revealed through dress. and allows more light to pass through COLLECTION AT The Ceramics gallery presents a comprehensive survey the stones. Gift of Mr Edmond Chin. of the wide range of Chinese ceramic production, featuring masterworks from the Neolithic period through the Qing surrounding culture and identity. Fashion and jewellery are KKAATTOONNGG dynasty. In particular, a large selection of ACM’s excellent markers of community and personal identity whether in collection of white Dehua porcelain – commonly known as historical times, or today. blanc de chine – will be on display. For example, the ways in which individuals from a wide AANNTTIIQQUUEE Mr Kennie Ting, Director of the ACM and Peranakan range of communities choose to clothe and adorn themselves Museum, explains,”The new galleries are literally the are more than just demonstrations of vanity, they are nuanced crowning glory of the museum, housing our most visually reflections of identity. At the same time, how people choose HHOOUUSSEE captivating pieces. As visitors admire pieces displayed, we what they wear is impacted by and emblematic of a larger social hope that they gain a better understanding of the questions context, and a particular time and place, very much like today. Visit by appointment. We want Singaporeans and visitors to be able to step into a museum with some of the best objects anywhere, and Jan Tan & Chan provides advice and representation in the Law Contact us on 6345 8544 of Contracts, Estates, Trusts, Wills, and Family & Commercial to leave with a deeper understanding of the long-standing or write to us at Litigation. We also offer corporate secretarial and oath services. traditions of craftsmanship that go into making these beautiful [email protected] objects; traditions that are very much part of our collective Our Commissioner for Oaths & Notary Public is conversant in Asian heritage.” English, Mandarin, Hokkien, Teochew, Cantonese, Malay, and The diverse collection of magnificent works of art within Bahasa Indonesia. This 19th century plum blossom tree with figures is a fine example of these new galleries was made possible largely through the Dehua “blanc de chine” porcelain. support of ACM patrons, notably long-term patrons Edmond Plum blossom trees were popular Chin, who contributed a generous gift of funds and Southeast 133 New Bridge Road, #15-10 pieces created by Dehua potters Asian jewellery in honour of his parents, Mary and Philbert Chinatown Point, Singapore 059413 during the 18th and 19th centuries. This example is one of the largest Chin; and Chris Hall, owner of most of the pieces in the first 208 East Coast Road Tel: 6538 8280 | Fax: 6538 8281 and most complex, with gnarly display of the Fashion and Textiles gallery, where much of his Singapore 428970 Email: [email protected] roots, a craggy rock, and two women enjoying themselves. Gift of Dorothy collection is on long-term loan to the museum. Chan in honour of Pamela Hickley.

ISSUE 2 • 2020 | 63 noticeboard federation listing THE FEDERATION OF APA PERANAKAN ASSOCIATIONS

SINGAPORE MALAYSIA THAILAND

The Peranakan MELAKA PHUKET ? Association Singapore KHABAIR Persatuan Peranakan Thai Peranakan (TPAS) Cina Melaka (PPCM) Association Raffles City PO Box 1640 149 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Street) 124 Yaowarat Road, Taladyai, Muang, A WARM WELCOME Singapore 911755 75200 Melaka, Malaysia Phuket 83000, Thailand TO OUR NEW MEMBERS! www.peranakan.org.sg Hon. Secretary | Ms Chin Siok Hoon www.phuketbaba.com ThePeranakanAssociationSingapore W +60 12 6218 909 / +60 6 2837 215 Ang Nancy BE ELL OUR NEW President | Dr Kosol Tanguthai & ! President | Mr Colin Chee E [email protected], Bathija Hans Girdhari (Tan Soon Hing) F JUNIOR MEMBERS [email protected] A +66 818927014 Bok Norkasmawhati S Persatuan Peranakan Bong Shereen Loy Chin Y Baba Nyonya Malaysia Ms Pranee Sakulpipatana Bong Florence Soon Choo A Mahachai Ariel Isabelle T Gunong Sayang (PERANAKAN) [email protected], S Chan Adrian Zhi Ming Association (GSA) +66 816933576 Chan Christopher Wei En Soh Ava Yixin 243 Jalan Tengkera, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia 205 Marine Parade Road, Ms Piyarat Kulvanich Cheang Ai Lin Adeline Persatuan Peranakan Baba Nyonya Singapore 449530 [email protected], Chong Choy Lin Renita Malaysia (PERANAKAN) Chua Jialing Derelyn www.gsa.org.sg +66 817190967 Finnigan Douglas GunongSayangAssociation Hon. Secretary | Mr Lee Yuen Thien [email protected], +60 196081558 Foo Swee Sim Michelle President | Mr Alvin Teo Gan Gek Lian Anita [email protected] AUSTRALIA Gaw Soei Tien Patricia PENANG Griffin Nee Wee Martina Khoo Eng Moi Peranakan Indian State Chinese MELBOURNE Khor Poh Kim Nee Gay Poh Kim (Chitty Melaka) (Penang) Association / Peranakan Association Koh Kin Chai Association Singapore Persatuan Peranakan Australia Inc. Kong Lai Kham 5001 Beach Road Cina Pulau Pinang (PAA Melbourne) Lau Jonathan Francis Shan Yu CALLING #08-09 Golden Mile Complex 13 Jalan Perak Road 10150 Penang, Malaysia PO Box 1278 Hawksburn, Victoria, Lee Kheng Yew Leonard Hector Singapore 199588 Lim Christine Jane ALL +60 604 2269 560 Australia 3142 ChettiMelakaofSingapore.OfficialFB Lin Ya Hui President | Dato' Tan Gin Soon www.peranakanaustralia.org Loh Pei Pei CREATIVES! President | Mr Pono Kalastree [email protected] Melbourne Peranakans Low Sze Wee [email protected] Peranakan Association Australia Inc Low Gladys Low Tian Heng We are looking for writers, photographers KUALA LUMPUR & SELANGOR Vice-President | Mr Joseph Then Low Daryl Yu Feng and illustrators with a passion for INDONESIA [email protected] / [email protected] Malpas Gabby Peranakan culture. If you would like to Persatuan Peranakan contribute to The Peranakan Magazine, please Baba Nyonya Kuala Ng May Keng SYDNEY Poon Anna Lai Chun write to Linda Chee at Peranakan Tionghoa Lumpur & Selangor [email protected] Sng Pearline Bee Hong Indonesia (Aspertina) (PPBNKLS) Peranakan Association Soh Kim Neo Amy Hero Building II Suite 902, JI. Unit B-8-3A, Block B, Menara KIP, Australia Inc. (PAA NSW) Song Kuok Hui Jend Gatot Subroto 177A, No.1, Jalan Seri Utara, off Jalan Ipoh, PO Box 3810 Marsfield, NSW, 2122Australia Srinivasan Vyjayarani (Rani) Kav. 64 Jarkarta 12870, Indonesia 68100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tan Danny Wai Mun www.peranakanaustralia.org www.aspertina.org https://ppbnkls.weebly.com Tan Kenneth Kok Meng President | Ms Evelyn Tan Tan Jin Yi Clement President | Mr Andrew Susanto President | Datuk Yeo Hock Siew [email protected] Tan Arlette Yean Mei International Liason Officer | [email protected] Tan Jeffrey Whye Lee Mr Hendi Handadi +60 12 315 1451 Tan Kuan Khoon Obituary [email protected] PERTH Tan Samantha Shu Juan Our deepest sympathies to the family of +6221 8317751 Tay Bok Neo KELANTAN The Peranakan Baba Tan Geok Koon who passed away Community of Western Tay Regina Sok Cheng peacefully on 11 March 2021 Peranakan Tionghoa Persatuan Peranakan Teo Peng Soon Peter Australia Inc. at the age of 90. He was a long-time Warga Indonesia Cina Kelantan (PPCK) Thia Hwee Lian PO Box 385, Bullcreek, contributor to this magazine and (Pertiwi) B-234, Jalan Wan Ahmad, 17500 Tanah Trog Natalie Nurra Western Australia 6149, Australia Merah, Kelantan, Malaysia Wong Hsien Loong Derek wrote under the pen name Tan Kuning. Yayasan PERTIWI c/o KING'S EEC, +60-16-930-6660 The Peranakan Community of Western Wong Mey Baba Geok Koon had a wealth of knowledge Jalan Baharudin No.8, Tangerang 15111, [email protected] Australia, INC Yee Anthony Kum Choo about Peranakan culture and practices. Banten, Indonesia Yeoh Pui See www.ppckelantan.wixsite.com/ppckelantan President | Mr Freddie Low He will be dearly missed. President | Mr Udaya Halim PPCKelantan [email protected] Yong Jie Le Gerald [email protected] +6221 5523880 President | Lim Kham Hong Secretary | Christine Fernandez +6221 5526748 [email protected] [email protected]

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was enhanced infinitely by Francis's expansive network of contacts with Malaysian royalty, British aristocrats and wealthy traders. “Mau buatpa kasih gua tau saja. (Just let me know what needs to be done),” said Eng Neo, as she lifted her tenth madeleine to her lips. Bee Neo nodded in acknowledgement. It was the last lady whose support Bee Neo needed most desperately for her plan to work. She glanced at her imploringly. Unadorned except for a single strand of lustrous Mikimoto pearls and clad in an exquisitely-cut, ankle length, slate grey, Shantung silk cheongsam, Sir Francis Soh's elderly widow stood A ramrod straight and unmoved. Lady Alice Soh Cheng Kim had WIDOW'S remarried a banking magnate of unparalleled wealth, who owned several private islands and large estates in at least a dozen countries. Her favourite home was in Balmoral, Scotland, where she spent most of her time enjoying her gardens WRATH and dogs. When her next-door neighbour was in residence, she would be invited over for tea. Elizabeth's chefs BABA BRYAN TAN IS PRIVY TO A made the most scrumptious scones and SECRET MEETING strawberry jam. OF THE MOST In spite of the decades that had POWERFUL WOMEN passed since Francis' death, the spectre IN SOUTHEAST ASIA. of her late husband still hung about her Illustration by Eileen Chan. like a lingering perfume. How does one forget a first love? Like many Peranakans of their generation, Francis and Alice had an arranged marriage. But they fell deeply HE SOH FAMILY'S country hung from the in love as soon as they wed. His death house was more of a fortress walls, adding had caused her so much pain that she than a pleasant holiday home. to the air of had wanted to end her life. Jutting out atop a hill, it had grandiose gloom She would never admit it, but sweeping views of the nearby that permeated the deep down, a part of her blamed her Tbeach and surrounding landscape. Built interior. Within its forbidding depths, wrought with the 14-pointed star of elder sister). He would have thrown a that Sir Francis had an eye on for trade wilful daughter, Peck Neo, for foolishly by Sir Francis Soh as a seaside retreat to the household servants were abuzz. The Malaysia, glinting on a tray of deep blue grand party and invited half the state to and supplied highly trained guards to sneaking out into the rubber plantation escape the sweltering heat of Melaka's matriarch was holding court with some velvet entombed by a bevelled glass case come. Bila dia ada, dia mia kong lo manyak protect his master. to makan agin (have a breather) that city, it was extensively remodelled by his very important guests. Afternoon tea etched with Sir Francis' monogram. sama gua. (When he was alive, I owed Now, Beng Ho ruled over an empire fateful night during the war. If the younger sister, Soh Bee Neo, after she had been laid out in the salon. Placed beside it, on the antique him a lot for his kindness.) May he of his own which comprised of largely stupid girl had just stayed at home, had inherited it from him. “Ladies, it was in this very huanghuali table, was a 17th century forever rest in peace. It was Sir Francis's illicit dealings in alcohol, gambling Francis would still be alive. Originally, the mansion was room that Ng Ko (eldest brother) was carved rock crystal vase (its twin in the kindness that helped my husband build and prostitution. He had taken in the During her night-time jaunt, Peck constructed to allow the cool sea breezes conferred the highest honour in the Museo del Prado, Madrid) that held his business,” intoned one of the women. mobsters from many states, and used Neo spied a Japanese soldier who to flow through the house. The large land by the Malaysian king himself,” majestic sprays of white Cattleya orchids “Kamsiah lah gua dapat orang puji, them in his security firm as a front for was about to rape a servant girl. She rooms were once bright and airy. Now, purred Soh Bee Neo, nibbling on a black that were replaced daily. nya (Thank you for your kind words),” his activities. Beng Ho owed a debt of attempted to rescue the servant and most of the windows had been walled Corinth grape. Queen Victoria's Head Gardener Bee Neo nodded graciously. blood to Sir Francis for paving the way charged at him with a stick in hand, but off. On the few that remained, heavy, “He was awarded the Seri Pahlawan had cultivated this particular hybrid in for his success. he grabbed his rifle. Francis saw the double-lined Gagah Perkasa, or the Grand Knight of 1890 exclusively for a Soh patriarch as a yonya Lim Swee Cheng “But Ng Ko should have been commotion and instinctively shot the damask velvet Valour, for his service to the country royal gift in appreciation for his loyalty returned the gesture, her ears alive to receive this award,” Bee Neo soldier to protect his daughter. Days curtains blocked during the second World War.” to the Crown. Since then, the orchids Nglittering with diamonds the continued. “He should not have died at later, he was arrested and executed. out all sunlight. “Unfortunately, he was not alive to were grown exclusively at the Soh family size of quail's eggs. Her husband Beng the hands of orang Jepun (Japanese) for Lady Alice turned to her sister-in- Dark oil paintings receive the award. His funeral was held retreat in the Cameron Highlands. Ho had been Sir Francis' right hand the sake of a lowly servant!” her eyes law, Bee Neo. “Tell me your plan,” she and tapestries here, and the king himself presented The ladies gathered around the man. While the tycoon rubbed shoulders flashing with anger. said without emotion. the award posthumously. Kalu boleh, dia table, tittering in impressed undertones, with the cream of society, Beng Ho, dealt Bee Neo paused and turned to the chukop puas hati dapat nama besair. (He sipping their oolong tea from eggshell with the scum. two other ladies present. The shorter would have been so happy to receive thin blanc de chine teacups, transfixed by He would pay off the local one, Nyonya Koh Eng Neo, was the wife *In the next issue, Molly uncovers the the award.)” the posthumous award, which formerly gangsters to protect Sir Francis's of one of Sir Francis's business partners, tangled web of her chu chu's (grandson's) Her words trailed off as her gaze adorned the body of someone, so holdings, edge out smugglers trying Koh Chin Siang. Palm oil, spices, rubber family secrets. What will she do next? landed on a gleaming silver medallion celebrated. “Ya juga, tachi (That is true, to flood the black market with goods and tin were his trade, and his fortune

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THE LANDMARKS THIAN HOCK KENG The oldest Hokkien temple in Singapore was PERANAKAN founded in 1821 although the present structure, built without nails, was completed only in 1841. The temple is dedicated to Mazu, the Daoist goddess of the sea and protector of all seamen. Many of the temple's patrons were Peranakan pioneers, such as GUIDE Tan Tock Seng, who donated $30,000 for renovations. He also founded the hospital named after him. The Hokkien Huay Kuan, a community organisation for Hokkien people in Singapore was housed at the SINGAPORE temple and also helmed by Peranakan pioneers.

Address•158 Telok Ayer Street Singapore 068613 Tel•6423 4616

MUSEUMS AMOY STREET & TELOK AYER STREET

The Peranakan Museum is closed for One of the first Peranakan renovation and will re-open in 2022. enclaves, now occupied by restaurants and offices. PERANAKAN MUSEUM Many Peranakans from Address•39 Armenian Street, Melaka moved to this area Singapore 179941 as soon as the East India Website•www.peranakanmuseum.sg Company began to lease Email•[email protected] out land for sale. Tel•6332 7591 ASIAN CIVILISATIONS MUSEUM BABA HOUSE EMERALD BLAIR PLAIN The first Formerly owned by the Wee museum in HILL ROAD A typical Peranakan residential area around family (whose ancestor Wee Spottiswoode Park, Blair Road and Neil Road the region to Another interesting Bin was a mid-19th century which is worth a stroll. Visit Guan Antiques display a wide range of residential district shipping magnate) since 1910. nearby at Kampong Bahru Road, a treasure artefacts from across Asia, showcasing the best This heritage house goes back trove of Peranakan heirlooms. the ACM not surprisingly in time to 1928. Experience of eclectic Peranakan has some important what a grand Peranakan residential architecture, Address•66 Spottiswoode Park Rd Peranakan treasures. terraced house would have just off Orchard Road. Singapore 088655 The Mary and Philbert been like. Chin Gallery has some Address•157 Neil Road, lavish examples of gold TAN SI CHONG SU jewellery, sireh boxes and Singapore 088883 some paraphernalia, some Website•www. Built in 1878, Tan Si Chong Su encrusted with diamonds, nus.edu.sg/ is the ancestral temple of the and fine batik textiles from museum/baba/ Tan clan, and was founded by the north coast of Java, all index.html prominent Baba philanthropists made for the Peranakan Tel•6227 5731 Tan Kim Ching, son of Tan Tock Seng, and Tan Bee Swee, the son market. Visits are by of Tan Kim Seng. The first president of the temple, Tan Kim Tian, was a Address•1 Empress Place, guided tours. well-known Baba shipping tycoon. The temple consists of shrines for the Singapore 179555 Please call the ancestral tablets of Tan clansmen, as well as altars to the clan deities. The Website•www.acm.org.sg house for details. elaborate stone and wood carvings as well as the swooping ceramic roof Tel•6332 2982 finials makes this one of the most elaborate Chinese temples in Singapore, quaintly located amid the gleaming towers of the financial district.

SUN YAT SEN Address•15 Magazine Road Singapore 059568 NANYANG MEMORIAL HALL The old Sun Yat Sen Villa reopened in October 2011 after extensive KATONG & JOO CHIAT renovations with a new name. Fitting tribute is given to the former Once the nerve centre of Peranakan life in Singapore. In its heyday it owners of the house especially Teo Eng Hock, a son of Teo Lee, one was the site of nearby grand seaside villas and elaborate Peranakan of the pioneer Teochew merchants in Singapore, together with his terraced houses. The latter can still be seen in a walk along Koon Seng nephew Lim Nee Soon, were among the loyal supporters of Sun Yat Road. Also visit Peranakan shops such as Katong Antique House (208 Sen's bid to overthrow the Qing government. The exhibits show how East Coast Road), Rumah Kim Choo (109 East Coast Road) and Rumah Singapore and the Chinese community here played Bebe (113 East Coast Road) as well as the great variety of Peranakan an important part in this pivotal moment of world restaurants in the neighbourhood. history. Intimate photos of the family life and of Teo Eng Hock's nyonya mother, Mrs Teo Lee née Website•www.myjoochiat.com Tan Poh Neo (granddaughter of the kapitan of Muntok), add charm and a Peranakan angle to the experience.

Address•12 Tai Gin Road, Singapore 327874 Website•www.wanqingyuan.org.sg Tel•6256 7377

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