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Venice Rising Visit the Most Romantic of Italian Cities at Her Best – Brimful of Art

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Venice Rising Visit the Most Romantic of Italian Cities at Her Best – Brimful of Art TRAVEL & CULTURE MY PLACE TEXT Christina Ko BOUNTIFUL BIENNALE VENICE RISING Visit the most romantic of Italian cities at her best – brimful of art The joke is to go before it sinks, but the grounds in Arsenale (a former shipyard) and ANGOLA reality is that there’s no better time to Giardini (a leafy park). Time permitting, a They may be newbies, but the Angolans visit Venice than now, with La Biennale di two-day pass for the show is recommended, have taken home the Biennale’s Golden Venezia in full swing until late November. although the truly ambitious can traverse Lion award for best national participation A star-studded art extravaganza, the much of the scene by hitting the smaller and created one of this year’s most biennale brings together world-class Arsenale by morning and stopping along talked-about pavilions. Venture inside artists from 88 countries. Via Garibaldi for a quick lunch en route to the Palazzo Cini in Dorsoduro and you While the entire city comes alive with Giardini for the afternoon. can tear off and keep a souvenir from events and exhibitions, the bulk of the Here are five not-to-be-missed 23 piles of posters of found objects by action takes place across two special pavilions, plus a quick guide to the city. photographer Edson Chagas. Now the only problem is how to transport your large, newly acquired works back to Hong Kong (or even your hotel) in pristine condition. ROMANIA At first glance, it’s difficult to figure out what’s going on at the Romanian pavilion. Human bodies are piled on top of each other, randomly rolling around and leaping suddenly. A closer look reveals that it’s a performance piece that re-enacts key works from the previous 54 incarnations of the Venice Biennale. Hired performers bring to life pieces by art-world superstars Opposite: A view from a canal in Venice Left: Stacks of posters at the Angolan pavilion Chanel – 82 – – 83 – TRAVEL & CULTURE MY PLACE clutching a Range Rover in its talons. The painting is a playful reference to Prince Harry’s hunting scandal six years ago, when he was linked to the demise of an endangered bird. Titled English Magic, the pavilion is the brainchild of artist Jeremy Deller. Purposefully cacophonous, it includes a sprawling video installation and interactive print- making station. The best bit: a garden party with free mugs of tea for everybody. Conceptual art or just good manners? Stay Eat CHILE CA MARIA ADELE OSTERIA ENOTECA AI ARTISTI Chilean artist Alfredo Jaar looks to Bed-and-breakfast Ca Maria Adele, Like a beautiful woman who simply Venice, rather than his home country, for vetted and OK’d by hotel network cannot cook, Venice is something of a inspiration. He created a large replica of Mr and Mrs Smith, seems like a gastronomic desert. But honest, tasty the Biennale grounds that rises from (or quaint little inn from the outside, food can be enjoyed at Osteria Enoteca sinks into, depending on how you see it) but it houses plush baroque rooms Ai Artisti, a small, unpretentious a tank of murky water. Titled Venezia, in true Venetian glamour – dark faux restaurant in Dorsoduro whose menu Venezia, the work is a politically charged fireplaces, heavy drapery in deep changes daily. Inventive pastas and purples or reds and kitschy-creepy excellent seafood make it a must, while cushions are all part of the design its nearby Caffe Bar Ai Artisti is a great dossier. A sweet location and breakfast midday stop for an espresso, and a flaky Like a beautiful in bed (served till 12) are other reasons lemon pastry or chocolate cannoli for woman who to consider this hidden gem. less than a euro. Telephone (39 041) 520 3078 Telephone (39 041) 523 8944 simply cannot Website camariaadele.it Website enotecaartisti.com cook, Venice is something of a Shop gastronomic MACRI Venice isn’t the first place that springs desert to mind when it comes to shopping – unless a carnival mask or Murano glass ornament are on your list – but experiment that dissects the nature of for the fashion-starved, Macri near national representation at the Biennale. San Marco has fabulous footwear by Clockwise from top: Shower of gold coins at the Russian pavilion; the Commentary aside, it’s one of the more Italy’s top names. You’ll be satisfied Chilean pavilion; a performance at the visually arresting installations at the with finds by the likes of Sergio Drink Romanian pavilion; the opening mural comparatively darker Arsenale pavilions Rossi and Casadei, a brand no longer of the British pavilion – and, frankly, cool to watch. available in Hong Kong. HARRY’S BAR like Edvard Munch, Jackson Pollock Telephone (39 041) 522 9956 Harry’s Bar is literally a national and Pablo Picasso. Titled An Immaterial RUSSIA landmark: the Italian government Retrospective of the Venice Biennale, it was Constantin; Cristiano Corte/British Council duard A poignant installation by Vadim declared it one in 2001. More importantly, E conceived by artists Alexandra Pirici and Zakharov seems particularly relevant it was the birthplace of the Bellini, that Manuel Pelmus as a simultaneous critique to Hong Kong, with its commentary on iconic peach-and-Prosecco concoction of and homage to the art extravaganza. gostino Osio; greed and the influence of money wrought now popular the world over. In its heyday, It’s one of the more bizarre pavilions, but A through a shower of gold coins. It’s a Harry’s Bar was run by the late Giuseppe definitely worth a visit. nod to the Greek tale of Danaë, who was Cipriani, who poured for the likes of impregnated by Zeus when he came to her Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway at in a golden gust. Only women are allowed this very location, and would later found GREAT BRITAIN on the lower floor, protected from the the Hotel Cipriani. You’ll see British cheek at its best in shower by umbrellas, and they can help this pavilion’s opening mural, which refill buckets of the currency to be hoisted Telephone (39 041) 528 5777 portrays a large hen harrier bird Daniel Zakharov; top: from Clockwise back up for the next rain. Website cipriani.com – 84 – – 85 –.
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