www.grapevine.is

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 7 • 2011 • June 3 - 16 2011 + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! NEWS TRAVEL FOOD MUSIC ART Did Spain get all Take them on, Are Icelanders GusGus come What are we doing 'Inspired by Iceland'? on your own! made of svið? splashing back! at the Venice Biennale?

OHIT'S HAPPENING NO! AG AIN! It’s happening again! OH NO! Iceland: Successfully trolling the rest of the world since (at least) 1000 BC

People usually don't fret when Iceland's most active volcano, Grímsvötn, starts spewing a little lava. After all, it happens every few years—volcanic activity is a fact of life on our remote rock in the North-Atlantic, and has been since way before any life forms made it there. When Grímsvötn did its usual thing last week, however, people got pretty spooked... and who can blame them, what with last year's Eyjamafjalladoodadodahecronöküll troubles and all? We report what went down, and share some interesting eruption truths. Page 19 138MM (5.43”)

136.5MM 10.5MM (.41”) INSIDE 2 PANEL

(5.37”) 137MM INSIDE 3 PANEL 9MM (.35”) C M (5.39”) Y B

/ Accordions by Davið Þór Jónsson / Banjo by Högni Egilsson / String arrangements by Samúel PANEL 4 TRAY 4 PANEL SELFOSS Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / BE WITH ME NOW / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / String arrangements The Reykjavík Grapevine by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / DEEP INSIDE / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Högni Egilsson / AccordionARABIAN by Davíð HORSE Þór / JónssonVocals by Issue 7 — 2011 / OVER / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / The Reykjavík Grapevine Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / Backing vocals by Stephan Stephensen and Birgir / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Högni Egilsson / Accordion by Davíð Þór Þórarinsson. WITHIN YOU CHANGES Jónsson / String arrangements by Samúel MAGNIFIEDJón Samúelsson LOVE / String / Vocals performance by Daníel Ágústby Roland / String Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík / Vocals by Högni Egilsson Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 WHEN/ YOU’RE LOVERS GONE www.grapevine.is 2 COME / Vocals by Birgir Þórarinsson / [email protected] / Lyrics by Atli Bollason / Accordion by Davíð Þór Jónsson / Snare by Sigtryggur Baldursson / Saw by Eric Alm / Saw recorded by Petter Winnberg / String arrangements by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / Ókey bæ performed by BENCHED / Slide guitar by Davíð Þór Jónsson / Saw by Eric Alm / Saw recorded by Petter Published by Fröken ehf. Jón Leifs / 125.5MM Editorial | Haukur S. Magnússon Winnberg / All tracks produced, performed and mixed by GusGus / All tracks written by GusGus (4.94”) www.froken.is except / Within You / GusGus, Högni Egilsson and Atli Bollason / Deep Inside / Gusgus and Högni Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association Egilsson / When You’re Lover Is Gone / GusGus, Högni Egilsson and Atli Bollason / Over / GusGus and KOMPAKT Hákonardóttir aka Earth / Be With Me Now / Gusgus and Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / GusGus www.saf.is are / Birgir Þórarinsson, Daníel Ágúst Haraldsson and Stephan Stephensen aka President Bongo / Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Artwork by Paul Mcmenamin / Photography by Wojtek Kwiatkowski / Band Photography by Ari Magg / ARABIAN HORSE Assistant Auður sæta / Recorded at Veiran Studios & Bongomachine / Thanks / Davíð Þór Jónsson & Colgate, Högni Egilsson, Urður Hákonardóttir, Linda Loeskow, Jenný & Jón, Paul Mcmenamin, Sigrún Editor: Daníelsdóttir, Silja Sóley, Rökkvi & Pétur, Cathy Lapka, Daníela, Una & Lilja, Addi 800, Samúel Jón WTF! FISHING QUOTA SYSTEM? Samúelsson, Guðmundur Óskar Guðmundsson, Roland String Quartet, Helgi Svavar Helgason, Sigtryggur Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] Baldursson, Jimi Tenor & Nicole Willis, Eric Alm, Petter Winnberg, Nisse, Gabríel Patay, Fjölnir Tattú, Journalist: Haukur’s 41st Editorial Sunneva & The Sirkus Crew Faroe Islands, Sigga & Jóel Briem, Gabríela Friðriksdóttir, Lárus Páll & Anna Andersen / [email protected] Jóní Jóns, Hjalti Egilsson, Margeir & Jón Atli, Michael Mayer & Kompakt, Sebastian Bohnenberger & Greatstuff, Heimir Sverrisson, Aron Arnarsson, Jón Skuggi, Agnar Hermannsson, Erla Indriðadóttir Editorial: & Einar Benjamínsson, Páll Borg and special summerhouse greetings go to: Magnús Stephensen & C M FOLD +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Bergljót Þorsteinsdóttir, Daníel Þórarinsson & Ingibjörg Nordahl. Contact details: [email protected] Y B Advertising: Four years ago, I wrote and researched a monstrous article fish in the ocean were handed over to fisheries and ves- +354 540 3605 / [email protected] that probably none of you read (‘The Crazy World of the sels in the early eighties based on previous years’ ‘fishingGUS 251MM Publisher: (9.88”) C M Quota System (somewhat) Explained’, issue 11 2007). You experience’. If you wanted to start your own fishery after Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Y B BE WITH ME / I’m lying in my bed / And it feels / Just like a prison cell / I’m trying to get sleep now / +354 540 3601 / [email protected] With likelymy head / didn’tStuck in a vacuumread shell it /because And I want you itto bepurported here / From the bottom to be / Of ana wishing explora - that, you had to buy or rent quota from the folks it had

well / Be with me now / I’m turning in my bed / And my mind twists / Like a whirlwind hell / I’m rolling in mytion-slash-explanation bed / Wrapped up / In your binding spell / ofBe with‘the me nowcrazy / WITHIN world YOU / You of train Iceland’s down to the fish- ARABIAN HORSE gutter / So bad it bites reality / Echoing sounds of your lover / You tied down your breath for a while / been allotted to initially. Contributing Writers: May take some time sometime / Find a dime and I shiver / Who cares where you carry your name / Tied downing by your quota lover / Break system’, my heart and it leavewas you really may / That’s long you, that’s and you, technical that’s you / Try onat / times, James Ashworth You cannot make time go backwards / Or make it run fast forward / It will go on without you / Clear is Haukur Már Helgason my mindand echoing Iceland’s throughout withinfishing you / Lay quota my heart systemdown easy in youris not hands a/ Found very our interestinghearts are Didn’t that make quota disproportionately valuable ARABIAN HORSE made to shiver / So right would you play me again / Shared by one another / The tears in our veins / TRACK Make your pause. I’ll deliver / My gold, I’ve sold my gold / Making my heart work harder / So it can beat ISSUE Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson muchtopic faster / Itto will most go on within of me you / After my(in time fact, of passing most through of / Within you you /have You cannot probably make compared to caught and processed fish? OF THE Paul Fontaine time go backwards / Or make it run fast forward / It will go on without you / Clear is my mind echoing throughoutstopped within youreading / MAGNIFIED by LOVE now). / I’m done for I give up / Surrender my physical mood / You Yes, but that maybe wasn’t a problem. Until 1990, when 125.5MM Madeleine T. make me walk blindly / Right out of my comforthood / You stroke me you strike me / As someone who (4.94”) is in control / You eat me you feed me / You nourish my hungry soul / Hungry soul / My magnified love / Download at Magnified (Si / Youdenote: push me you ifshove you me / areYou movean meIcelander every night / You and make theme go lightly fishing / You move quota they made the quota into a tradeable, mortgageable as- Anna Solé Sans every cell in my body / In my body / You own me! Physically! / Possessing me spiritually / My magnified grapevine.is love / Magnified love / DEEP INSIDE / When you opened my heart I was t hrown / Deep into the Milky Marc Vincenz Waysystem / The adrenaline isn’t rush interesting that I got from the crushto you,/ Blew me more away / Opened power doors. toOpened you, wide. butDeep do set, effectively creating a ‘stock market’ for the sale and Bob Cluness inside / You rose in a certain way / I could feel how you grew and I knew / You would steal my heart away / Deepkeep inside, in deep mind inside / Whythat—regardless did you crash steal my heart of and gothe / Deep ‘creative inside, deep and industries’ tight / My renting of fishing quota. Picture this: you own a fishery teeth are sore on your front door / I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry / Deep inside the Milky Way / Now I’m Vanessa Schipani pushed and / I’m pulled I feel flushed / I’m completely out of place / And the blood that was boiling with lust(i.e. / Now CCP’s) is frozen in mycontribution—fisheries veins / I am stuck in a rut with the thought and when how my life /they Was swept are away man / - and some trawlers. And a lot of debt. Their total value is Valur Gunnarsson How cathartic when my heart exploded / Inside the Milky Way / Deep inside, deep inside / Why did you

Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson crashaged steal myare heart pivotal and go / Deep to inside, how deep lifeand tight on / Mythis teeth islandare sore on yourwill front evolve, door / I’m and x million ISK, and your total debt is double that. You now

BLEED TRIM dry, I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry / Deep inside the Milky Way / OVER / We’ve made our mistakes over / We’ve SAFETY Ragnar Egilsson gone up and down / Over and over / Once again I have crossed / Double-crossed over / I betrayed our trustby / ignoringKnocked it all over this / Over. you Over / areAnd I wonderbasically why / Why ignoringwe didn’t try, this every time / Didn’t other even try is - suddenly have an intangible asset (“the right to catch, pro- Egill Helgason / Try to make things right, over / As you wonder why / Why we didn’t try / We didn’t try this time / We didn’tsue even that try / Tryyour to make might things right or this should time / With care the wind deeply this will blow about. / It will blow Itover all / Is goesthe cess and sell an x amount of fish annually) that you were time, time to mend / Over? / Maybe we can delve / Deep into ourselves, over / Find the smallest flame Sindri Eldon 4.OVER 5.WITHIN YOU / Re-install the game / Over / ARABIAN HORSE / Disappear into the dust / Lost on your horse / Blown 3.DEEP INSIDE back to fishing). given1.SELFOSS in 2. theBE WITH early ME eighties and 8.thatCHANGES you COME may now mortgage, Ellen Blumenstein away by your gust / Lost on your horse / Desert land under the sun / Lost on your horse / Like a grain of 7. MAGNIFIED LOVE sand / Lost in your storm / On the crossroads take a left / Lost on your horse / Too bright to even see the 6.ARABIAN HORSE 10.BENCHED sun / MoreHow and moreever, sand asin my an eyes /Icelander, Riding on. Getting notlost / Lostbeing on your horseinterested / Disappear into in the the rent or sell for very9.WHEN tangible YOUR LOVERS rewards. GONE This is your personal TRACK OF THE ISSUE dust / Lost on your horse / Racing on the desert dunes / I chase you like a moon / But on the crossroads KOMPAKT SCHALLPLATTEN WERDERSTRASSE 15-19 D-50672 KOLN, FON+49/221-94995-0 FAX-150 WWW.KOMPAKT.FM MADE IN EUROPE GEMA Editorial Interns: take a left / Lost on your horse / CHANGES COME / Maybe I just want to be alone / Tired of searching forfishing the way back quota home / Stucksystem, in the state how of no stateit works, at the deep endwho of sorrow it benefits, / Changes come, who but I it property; the fishermen, workers and community who PANEL 1 FRONT COVER Maroesjka Lavigne / [email protected] can’t follow / Stay, Stay, Stay, Stay away /Touched by evil, nothing more to say / It’s so easy to turn you 139.5MM on. / But just as quickly, then you’re gone / Stuck in this state of no fate with sight fixed on tomorrow SPINE 7.5MM (.3”) affects negatively and how it does all those things is fairly contributed to the ‘fishing experience’C M that earned you the GUSGUS (5.49”) / Changes come, and you do follow / Stay, Stay, Stay, Stay away / Touched by evil, nothing more to say Y B José Angel Hernández García / [email protected] PANEL 6 BACK COVER 139.5MM SPINE 6MM (.24”) (5.49”)

understandable. It hasPANEL been 5 INSIDE a heavily debated point of quota in the first place have no claim to it. You may do with FOLD ARABIAN HORSE SAMPLER S. Alessio Tummolillo / [email protected] FOLD CD 6 PANEL 1 TRAY DIGIPAK 138.5MM

On-line News Editor contention for this nation for well over two decades,431MM and it it as you will. FOLD

(5.45”) FOLD Paul Fontaine / [email protected] (16.97”) Download at www.grapevine.is is usually discussed, no, shouted about in a most boring, CYAN MAGENTA TOTAL TECH: NUMBER Art Director: L/S: YELLOW BLACK DATE: OF COLORS technical, complicated and FILE obfuscated NAME: manner. A com- PMS PMSAnd I am free to sell, rent or mortgage it as I will? I Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] SEL#: It appears the verdict is in: with ‘Arabian Horse’, LABEL: JOB #: Design: ARTIST:plex, million year old argumentTEMPLATE: that UMG_CD_6P_DIG_1TRAY_JUL00.indt people like to engage UMGI_CD_6P_DIG_1TRAY_JUL00.indt can sell it sans boat or fishery or staff? TITLE: beloved electro legends GusGus have crafted a Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] SEPARATOR:in by shouting unclear technicalities and odd sounding You sure can! In fact, you can sell it without paying off Photographer: masterpiece of a record, with mesmerising tunes, words at one another? Sign me up! But not really. the debt of your fishery, which will be unable to function Hörður Sveinsson / hordursveinsson.com stomping rhythms and some hypnotic melodies. Sales Director: Why am I bringing this up? Well, Iceland’s government without the quota and will have to rent overpriced quota in Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] is currently trying to restructure the quota system in an order to operate, maybe from the very people you sold it to! Folks are already claiming it’s 2011’s strongest AL- Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / [email protected] ostensibly revolutionary manner. The proposed change is BUM OF THE YEAR contender thus far (with only FM Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] Distribution manager: far removed from what the parties in charge promised in And I get to keep the money? Belfast on the horizon posing a threat when ‘I Don’t Þórður Guðmundur Hermannsson their campaign literature and speeches, but it seemingly Yeah. Pretty much. It isn’t heavily taxed. There’s now a Want To Sleep’ drops). [email protected] still goes further in changing the controversial system to- nominal ‘resource tax’, but it’s... not very high. You can sell Indeed, Grapevine reviewer Ragnar Egilsson Proofreader: Jim Rice wards something that might at some point prove superior that quota and move to a warmer climate, leaving the com- calls it “a perfect anthemic pop record” in his five to the one we have been embroiled in for far too long. Press releases: munity that fostered you to wither away. Or! You can invest star review, which you may read on page 24 of this [email protected] I say ‘seemingly’ since no one appears very sure of in Reykjavík real estate development, shopping malls and issue. At the Grapevine offices, we’ve been blasting Submissions inquiries: what it means exactly, and the opposing parties in this banks (interestingly enough, almost none of the infamous [email protected] ‘Arabian Horse’ since we got our advance copy a Subscription inquiries: debate (the government and The Federation of Icelandic ‘quota sellers’ went on to invest in the communities that +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Fishing Vessel Owners, respectively) are both fighting fostered them)! You can even use it to buy a bank and few weeks ago—and we’re not the least interested in General inquiries: heated PR campaigns to ensure their interests—the gov- transform it into a hedge fund if you want! In fact, neolib- changing the playlist or turning it down yet. [email protected] ernment wants people to think that it is keeping its cam- eral mogul Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson has remarked For this issue’s TRACK, we decided to ask Gus- Founders: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, paign promises and being all hardcore (because this will many times that making the quota into a tradeable asset Gus master Biggi Veira to make us a medley of the Hörður Kristbjörnsson, maybe make people vote for it again) and TFOIFVO wants was a prerequisite of the financial bubble we all know and album, so all you readers can hear what the fuss is Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, people to think the sky will fall if the system is changed love (in the aforementioned article: “It has created a lot of Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, about. Biggi sat down and seamlessly mixed the ten (because it will mean this ultra-rich-ultra-powerful inter- Valur Gunnarsson capital, and is one of the explanations for the accumulation ‘Dark Horse’ tracks into a smoothly flowing sampler. est group will stand to lose a lot of its money and power, of capital abroad [...] the fish stocks [that] were a com- Download and listen up, preferably on some nice The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by which is funny because if there’s one thing they’ve proved mon good before, and therefore valueless, as all common Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and headphones. fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine repeatedly over the last few decades is that they are hor- goods are, became a private good, and got valuable”). may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written rible businessmen that deserve neither money nor power). permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is I won’t claim to fully comprehend the quota system, Sounds great! I’ve also heard that this makes fishing distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðis- and I won’t claim to fully comprehend the implications of more efficient, as the quota accumulates to those fjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations to harvest and process all our fish in a single monstrous along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist the proposed bill (again, finding a neutral assessment of best fit to management, and thus creates more value and automated freezer trawler, but it really isn’t! By that information centres in the country. it is really difficult, because—like in so many cases nowa- for society. What a great deal! same logic, it would be extremely efficient if all Iceland- days—the only people that seem to care have much vested Well, define value. I keep thinking back to 2007, when a You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored (no ers lived in a single apartment complex in Breiðholt (how articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. interest in how it is perceived. We need a journalist, stat!). couple of Norwegian officials visited Iceland to investigate much would we save on heating and transportation costs? The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the However, I will make some claims about my own position, the transferable quota system (Norwegians already have a A lot!). advertisers’). based on what I have learned from being raised in a small fishing quota system, their quota’s just not ‘transferable’). fishing community and also from following news and stuff, There had been a lot of pressure in Norway to adopt the So what’s being changed now? and also having my fishing captain grandfather yell at me Icelandic system of tradeability, and these guys were sent I’m not sure. Maybe we’ll have an article on it in our next about it. In Q and A form. Right now. It’s what I think. here to research if it was a good idea. issue. Maybe not. After travelling the country for months, conducting Is a fishing quota system necessary? their research, they were interviewed by RÚV radio show Of course! There is a limited amount of fish in the ocean Spegillinn on their way home. They were asked: “Will you URGENT CORRECTION!!!

www.grapevine.is (despite what you might have heard), and if we plan on recommend Norway adopt our system?” Their reply: “No. THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 7 • 2011 • June 3 - 16 2011 + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! NEWS TRAVEL FOOD MUSIC ART We’ve made a huge mistake. In last issue’s super awesome GUIDE Did Spain get all Take them on, Are Icelanders GusGus come What are we doing 'Inspired by Iceland'? on your own! made of svið? splashing back! at the Venice Biennale? going about harvesting it for food and profit, we will need While we have discerned that it does create a lot of capital, TO EVERY BAR IN REYKJAVÍK, we erroneously reported the prices OHIT'S HAPPENING NO! AG AIN! to ensure that we don’t, like, catch every fish out there. and we are interested in capital, we are also interested in of ‘Beatles-bar’ Obladi Oblada. We also neglected to mention the It’s happening again! That might render fish extinct! Of course we need to con- keeping our small fishing towns populated. We feel that fact that they indeed have a pretty awesome ‘happy hour’ every trol how much is caught annually, and we need to do this is efficient and valuable, too. If we were to recommend it, day of the week, and that it starts earlier than any other ‘happy OH NO! based on sound scientific research and evidence. we would make sure that quota trading would be limited hour’ we know of. Iceland: Successfully trolling the rest of the world since (at least) 1000 BC The correct prices for Obladi Oblada are as follows: People usually don't fret when Iceland's most active volcano, Grímsvötn, starts spewing a little lava. After all, it happens every few years—volcanic activity is a fact of life on our to larger fisheries and vessels selling to smaller ones, as remote rock in the North-Atlantic, and has been since way before any life forms made it there. Illustration: Sveinbjörn Pálsson When Grímsvötn did its usual thing last week, however, people got pretty spooked... and who can blame them, what with last year's Eyjamafjalladoodadodahecronöküll troubles and all? We report what went down, and share some interesting eruption truths. Page 19 www.sveinbjorn.com What’s wrong with the current fishing quota system? it seems to have accumulated in a few large fisheries in BEER: 650 ISK // SHOTS: 650 // SINGLE + MIXER: 900 HAPPY HOUR: 500 ISK beers, 600 ISK shots, 800 ISK single + mixer. Nothing much. But then, so much. The problem isn’t that Iceland. And this seems to have had a negative effect on They also asked us to tell you that they regularly host some we have a system to control how much fish we fish, the your fishing towns”. legends of Icelandic music (last week they had Engilbert Jensen!) problem lies in the execution. playing Beatles-tunes in their own style. Every Thursday has the re- So what you’re saying is... portedly excellent house band performing along with special guest What’s wrong with the execution then? A system to control how much fish we catch is very im- stars. “It is a must-visit for every fan of the Beatles or good music”, Well, firstly, the way the quota was handed out in the be- portant. Creating an intangible, yet tradeable, rentable and they say. Sorry for our errors, Obladi Oblada. We have spanked the ginning is, at best, suspect. Perpetual rights to uncaught mortgageable commodity is not. It might appear efficient reporter in question.

BE SQUARE AND BE THERE Gullfoss and Geysir are surely a must-see in The Reykjavík Grapevine awarded Iceland, but neither is something you eat. Hamborgarafabrikkan the “Best Specialty That’s why we have 13 brilliant and creative Burger 2010”. It made us happy. Because we hamburgers at Hamborgarafabrikkan aim to please. That’s why we only use 100% (The Icelandic Hamburger Factory). fresh high-quality ingredients, directly from the Hamborgarafabrikkan would eat Hard Rock Icelandic nature. Café for breakfast, but since there is no Hard Attention: Our hamburger buns are not round. Rock Café in Iceland we eat our original They are square. Does it taste better? You tell us. THE LAMBURGER Lamburger with the wonderful Icelandic lamb. Be square and be there. 120 g Lamburger (lamb), garlic grilled mushrooms, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, red onion, sauce Béarnaise and french fries. Turninn Höfðatorgi Opening hours: 105 Reykjavik [email protected] Sun-Wed. 11.00–22.00 Those who taste The Lamburger will hardly be able to believe their taste buds. Tel: 575 7575 www.fabrikkan.is Thu-Sat. 11.00–24.00 SUPER JEEP ADVENTURES AND OTHER EXCITING DAY TOURS

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MAKE SURE IT’S MOUNTAIN GUIDES MOUNTAINGUIDES.IS [email protected] Tel: +354 587 9999 Icelandair Pioneer or visit the ITM INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTER, Award 2006 For designing and For environmental policy For education and continuous For innovation and Bankastræti 2 - Downtown, Reykjavík developing Glacier Walks. and awareness. training of guides. development of Glacier Walks. Scan QR code to locate ITM Sour grapes MOST AWESOME LETTER and stuff FREE GRAPEVINE TEE HEE HEE! We’ve got a new prize for all your MOST AWESOME LETTERS. And it’s a scorcher! For this Say your piece, voice issue, whoever sends THE MOST AWESOME LETTER will receive a cool new Reykjavík your opinion, send Grapevine T-shirt, featuring the majestic G that adorns our cover. So you should make sure to your letters to: keep writing us fun and/or interesting letters. [email protected] This new Grapevine tee surely is the shiznit (whatever that means)! It was designed by our very own art director man, Hörður Kristbjörnsson, and it’s good for posing in front of a mirror, impressing folks with your impeccable taste or picking up men or women of all ages (no minors). DON’T PANIC if your letter wasn’t picked AWESOME LETTER. You can still get a tee for a low, low price over our website, www.grapevine.is 4 Now, if you're in the market for free goodies next month, write us some sort of letter. Letters Give us your worst: [email protected] MOST AWESOME LETTER:

By the way my concerts in June music and your joy. I want congratulate you and Grapevine for all articles about Medhi case. Really great! Café Haiti - Each Saturday - 21:00 - June - We look forward to the day your case will be I hope with all my heart that his case will 1.000 kr entrance fee completely solved, as well as Medhi’s case. be solved soon. It is really so sad! I feel me We also yearn for the day Medhi and other bad for him. Thank you so much, asylum seekers won’t have to suffer UTL When my case will be solved completely and the government’s seemingly random (I still am waiting for my work permit Best Regards, and painstakingly slow decision-making and for the Parliament decisions- also my Jussanam processes (unless they’re dating an MP- daugther had not the same answers than spawn, in which case the decision-making me) , when everything will be solved and I Dear Jussanam, process quits being random and slow). hope it will be until beginning June, I will Also drop by our office whenever you turn my page open for support other cases Wow. That’s a nice letter to get, especially on feel like it for your free tee-hee-hee. like Medhi case . It will turn a page for such a sad occasion. Thank you for writing changes in UTL. it, and for enriching our culture with your

Dear Colleagues of The Reykjavik Grape- Our hearts go out to you, and to our Rebecca, re: whaling article vine and to everyone else that’s been raped, mo- I posted to the essential proof of "world- lested, harrassed or otherwise abused. As a vegetarian and animal-rights support- wide children are brainwashed", and "cor- er I applaud Sigursteinn Másson’s advocacy respondings of the United Nations and Ja- This needs to end. Now. against whaling. I do not, however, find it pan." But the article was not normally seen. strange that tourists might go directly from I would like to apologize for you. Thanks for your letter, and for sharing your a whale-watching tour to a feed of whale experience. Hopefully it will open some meat at a local restaurant. Many tourists Please visit the repaired website; eyes. who are thrilled to go horse-riding here are http://st-nagaya.jp/doom1.pdf probably very happy to go off to fill up on LOVE animal protein immediately afterwards, Yours sincerely, maybe even colt meat, and people who think Re: The Reykjavík Grapevine Newsletter it’s wonderful to enjoy a farm-stay holiday or Nagaya Osamu May 2011 to take their kids to the petting zoo wouldn´t hello grapevine! think twice about a steak or hamburger for Dear Nagaya, dinner. i am always very happy to receive news from thank you for your nice letter. Worldwide you, even though i dont live in Iceland at all. Unlike the animals in a little fabel I wrote children are brainwashed indeed. Those i guess to me Icelandic news are a good ba- a few years ago, published in an anthology kids! We can’t really understand your article rometer for some sort of possibilities in this by the Svenska institutet, animals in our as its in Japanese, but maybe some of our world. all-too real world don´t share telepathy, don’t readers do and will write back to inform us? i wanted to be in touch with you for a know we are out to kill them, don’t know we That would be cool! Japanese speaking read- while as i am launching now my nomadic la- are laying waste to our common biosphere ers—do your worst! bel, dedicated to various musicians around and can’t fight back. There is no hope for the world, this week - its named PETITES the whales or any other wild creatures. Or Dear Rebecca, PLANETES - and it's here for you: http:// for us. petitesplanetes.cc/ i don't know your direct email address, so i you might remember someone wrote an Kristófer Jónatansson hope this will find you - somehow. article about my work while i was invited for I have read your piece on how rapes are the last RIFF, this past september - http:// Dear Kristófer, WELCOME CARD treated in Iceland. It was very brave of you to www.grapevine.is/Art/ReadArticle/Its- include your personal experience, to tell the My-Responsibility-To-Focus-on-Unknown- thank you for your letter. Although, it’s kind world that you are one of the victims. Dear, Bands - and while i was in the country, i of depressing, really. Man, you got us all See more and save more WELCOME CARD INCLUDING you don't know how lucky you are: you have did a few films with local musicians - from bummed out. No hope? Gosh, that’s harsh! CITY BUS TRANSPORT, when visiting Reykjavík. FREE ADMISSIONS, 2009 - 2010 DISCOUNTS OFF TOURS, been raped only once, by the person you did Retro Stefson to Pascal Pinon to Sin Fang to SHOPPING, AND SERVICES and AVAILABLE FOR 24, 48 not know. If you decided to make charges, it Gyda & Kria Valtysdottir... and then i met up Look, it might seem like humans as a collec- Free admissions discounts AND 72 HOURS. off tours, shopping and services would be quite easy to prove it was a rape. with Olof Arnalds in NY, and its the movie tive or species have never really solved any for 24, 48 or 72 hours. I had been raped by my (ex?) husband and soundpiece which opens my new proj- of their mutual problems or reverted from

2010 48 Great value for money. many times before i decided to make charg- ect http://petitesplanetes.cc/volume/olof-ar- any of the cruel and barbaric behaviour that WELCOME CARD es against him. And so the police did the nalds all the other films will be online soon, somehow defines us. But we have, though! The Welcome Card can questioning - first me, than him. He said i in the next 2 months Really!

HBS 48592 01 . be purchased at: wanted it every single time, that i was pur- so, if you have time to have a look, an ear, The Centre, major hotels, museums, SIA.I S posely making him horny with perfumes and maybe even mention it on your website Look at it this way: you are doing it right tourist information centres and and that i just made it all up cos i want the at some point, i would be very happy now! With your support of animal rights and Hlemmur and BSÍ bus stations.

ÍSLENSK A custody. And so my case is standing some- i hope you enjoy, and good almost sum- vegetarianism! You are a beacon of hope, where (i don't remember the name of it, mer to you you are the change you want to see. Perhaps some gæsla), and the lawyers need to decide the rest of us will catch up with you one day, if it will go to the court or not. That was last Vincent Moon perhaps not, but the way to win your cause October - nothing had happen since. So ev- support means hyping it to oblivion, not

Aðalstræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel +354 590 1550 • [email protected] erything is fine (on the paper). Dear Vincent Moon (!), downplaying it. Right? You can imagine what could be said www.visitreykjavik.is (made up) about my mental health when i wow, though. We’re all flattered. An artist Thanks again for your letter. And good luck. had let the same man to rape me so many we admire subscribes to our newsletter? And hope and change and stuff. times. The courts are of course far busier That’s pretty cool! We should subscribe to with more important cases than of one cra- yours in turn. Do you have a newsletter? Hello.More than 30 years, collect newspa- zy foreigner whom no one believes anyway. Anyway, yes, we’ll try our best to help pers on paper and I have over 6000 differ- Well, needed to say, the police believed you publicise your new label. It seems like a ent titles.Many would be glad if you send me, and there were some really wonderful great idea, and the videos we’ve seen thus far me a newspaper to my collection.I wish you guys who are on my side, they had even have all been excellent. And thank you for much health, happiness and professional disciplined my (ex) husband so well he did your nice letter, too. Good almost summer success.My mailing address is;Yordan not raped me again anymore (for who needs back! Kirilov ,Tzar osvoboditel 14 , Ihtiman 2050 rape when there are so many other forms of , BULGARIA violence). DO YOU HEAR THAT, READERS? VIN- Maybe you think i am weird to tell you CENT MOON SUBSCRIBES TO OUR Dear Yordan, my story, but you had inspired me: i just NEWSLETTER! WHY DON’T YOU? http:// thought that if you decide to put some vic- thank you for your letter. We will surely send tims together, maybe our voice would be When king of universe talk to a person, he you something for your collection. And we www. louder (even louder than your family name) familiars to secret of universe; he knows return your wishes of health, happiness and geysir. and maybe we could achieve something. Of what thing belongs to him. He gets calm. professional success. course, i don't expect any miracles. He knows everything belong to him in this is world and the other world. He lives without If any of you readers reading this have any Anyway, thanks for reading any stress in this world. He can talk to king cool newspapers or magazines to share with of universe and enjoy from him. King of our friend Yordan, then you should send Dearest you, universe loves him and he loves him too. him some, too. It would make his day, and Mohammad Farnush what’s better than making someone’s day? reading about your plight and struggle is http://iccpsew.webs.com NOTHING, that’s what. hard, as was reading Rebecca’s story, as is reading every single account out there of the Dear Mohammad, brutal violence and injustice that our society for some reason seems to condone. thank you for your letter. It’s really sort of wonderful. Book now on www.re.is we‘ll taKe Book now at your reception you there! Book now by calling 580 5450 day tours to all the Most excitinG places in iceland

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík • 580 5400 • [email protected] • www.re.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 So what do y'all think about 'Iceland's polar bear policy'? Does it make sense? Is it maybe unreason- able to fret for the fates of the rare polar bear that drifts to Iceland? Or are you maybe donating to 6 www.reykjavikpolarbearproject.org already? Tell us EVERYTHING!

News | Environment ICELAND’S POLAR BEAR POLICY Minister for the Environment Svandís Svavarsdóttir interviewed

The fourth polar bear in three years show concern for the environment and landed in Iceland last month. This Words wild animals. We need more of them one swam ashore in Iceland’s re- Anna Andersen and we need stronger environmental mote Westfjord region and was NGOs in Iceland. Of course, I would spotted roaming the countryside of Photo like them to study the context and chal- Hælavík. Much like its predeces- Hörður Sveinsson lenges that a successful polar bear res- sors, the bear was promptly shot cue operation faces. and killed. which have the authority to do that if So do you think Jón Gnarr can suc- While polar bears have never been they judge it to be a threat. One was cessfully bring a polar bear to the welcome in Iceland, they have until shot by a local farmer, which spotted zoo? recently been a rare visitor. When the an animal near a small town, before au- He can if he wants to. The logical way pair arrived in 2008, it had been two thorities arrived on the scene. to go about this is to ask one of the five decades since a polar bear stepped countries that have polar bear popula- foot in the country. As the polar ice cap What about international pressure tions, or foreign zoos, about the animal melts, however, an increasing number to stop killing polar bears? For in- and then prepare a spacious and safe of polar bears are drifting south via ice- stance, the US has put the polar den for it. It seems like an odd way to berg and inevitably some of them wind bear on an endangered species list. get an animal for a zoo to wait for a up swimming ashore to Iceland. Given How do you feel about that? stray bear that could come next month that these majestic creatures are now Polar bears are endangered, mainly be- but perhaps not for another decade or considered an endangered species by cause of the long-term threat to their two. And then hope that a mission to countries like the United States and sea-ice habitat due to climate change. catch it alive succeeds. And then start Canada, Iceland’s actions have been The conservation of polar bears is gov- preparing a decent den—nobody wants quite controversial. erned by the International Agreement to see a majestic animal like a polar In response to the latest killing, on the Conservation of Polar Bears, bear confined in a small cage. members of The Best Party stepped up which is administered by the five na- But of course the Mayor of Reyk- their private campaign to bring a polar tions whose territory is inhabited by javík also promised to break his cam- bear to the zoo. The government, how - polar bears: Canada, Denmark/Green- paign promises. He will be a man of his ever, has left many wondering about land, Norway, Russia and the USA. word in one way or another. the official game plan. In the following There are some estimated 22.000 wild interview, Minister for the Environment polar bears in the world; yet, hundreds Svandís Svavarsdóttir explains Ice- are killed every year in a legal way un- land’s polar bear policy and discusses der the confines of that agreement. In the viability of alternatives. that context it is clear that the fate of stray polar bears in Iceland has no ef- The Reykjavík Polar Bear Project Iceland killed another polar bear fect on the survival of the species, al- last month. Can you explain the though we can and should have con- The Reykjavík Polar Bear Project is a non- rationale behind killing the bears cern over the individual animals that profit headed by Best Party Mayor Jón that wind up swimming ashore to come ashore here. stock that have been shot in the last What’s the plan for the next polar Gnarr, Best Party Manager Heiða Kristín Iceland? decade have been killed in Iceland. If bear landing then? Helgadóttir and arctic law expert Húni The law says that polar bears are pro- Some argue that they should be stray bears are shipped back alive, we The local authorities will make the first Hallsson. While Jón Gnarr campaigned on tected unless they pose a threat to hu- tranquillised and shipped off to would have to ensure that they would call. People’s safety must come first. An the promise to bring a polar bear to the zoo, mans or livestock. That threat has been Greenland. Is that an option? Have be transported away from a threat of action team of relevant authorities will the group officially launched the project, cited in cases of polar bears that have Iceland and Greenland communi- being legally shot in Greenland. be called together in the event of a bear www.reykjavikpolarbearproject.org/ after been shot. Polar bear landings in Ice- cated on this? The expert group concluded that sighting to coordinate efforts. If local the latest polar bear was shot and killed land have been rare in recent decades; The Ministry for the Environment has the chances of catching a polar bear authorities deem the bear not to be a in Iceland’s remote Westfjord region two when a bear was spotted in Skagi in contacted authorities in Greenland re- alive were highly uncertain due to a threat and the animal is contained alive weeks ago. 2008 there had not been a sighting on garding this option and commissioned number of circumstances. It requires within a safe parameter, attempts can The goal is raise 300 million ISK to land for over 20 years. It is therefore an expert group to study that option, that the bear can be quickly contained be made to catch it alive and ship it to build a polar bear sanctuary at The Reykja- not a common occurrence, and always as well as others. Greenlandic authori- so it poses no threat, that a trained Greenland. It must be noted, of course, vík Zoo & Family Park and arctic research causes a stir and calls for quick action ties allow the hunting of about 50 po- crew with a tranquiliser gun arrives that the expert team concluded that the centre to study the impact that global by local authorities. lar bears in East Greenland each year, quickly on the scene in a helicopter, chances of a successful rescue opera- warming is having on the area. “As polar which they deem to be a safe limit for that the bear does not enter the sea af- tion are highly uncertain. ice melts, the polar bear’s habitat shrinks Who has the final say when it comes the stock. They have told us that they ter being hit with a tranquiliser, and that and older bears are ousted”, Best Party down to it? Who says, okay we have fail to see the rationale behind ship- it can be quickly put in a robust cage. What do you think of ‘The Reykja- Manager Heiða Kristín Helgadóttir said. to kill this polar bear’? ping stray polar bears alive from Ice- Then it needs to be checked if the bear vík Polar Bear Project’, which is “The bear that came this May, however, It is in the hands of local authorities land to Greenland, given that this is a is healthy enough for a long transport against killing the bears and claims was far younger than usual, which speaks responsible for people's safety. Three rare occurrence and has no effect on (two of the three bears did not fit that to target yourself and Prime Minis- to the gravity of the situation. This one of the four bears killed in Iceland this the species and its survival. Less than bill) and then it needs to be transported ter Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir? could definitely have been rehabilitated”. century have been shot by local police, 1% of the bears of the East Greenland quickly over a long distance. I welcome grassroots movements that

office on May 24, he told us that he fled granted sparingly in Iceland. Until 2008, More Asylum Norway four months ago, after receiv- only one such case can be found on ing death threats from the Mossad. He record. Furthermore, as Paul Nikolov Seeker Woes began a hunger strike that day, after reported on www.grapevine.is: “Ac- learning that authorities were going to cording to the latest statistics from We need to get this send him back to Norway. Days later he the Red Cross, most asylum seekers tried to take his life. in Iceland come from Muslim coun- mess under control In an interview with local newspaper tries such as Iran, Iraq, Afghanistan, ASAP DV, Mousa said he lost his right eye in a and Pakistan. However, between 2006 bombing by the Israeli Defense Forces and 2009, 57.1% of asylum seekers who Last issue we reported that Iranian when he was fourteen years old. Back- were granted refugee status were self- asylum seeker Mehdi Kavyanpoor had ing his claims, Mousa had documenta- identified Christians—only 20% were walked into the Red Cross building and tion from the Saint John Eye Hospital in Muslim”. threatened to set himself on fire if his Jerusalem. Mousa, much like Medhi who was case—in limbo for seven years—was not “A signed letter by ophthalmologist put into a mental institute after his sui- resolved. Unfortunately, there are now Humam Rishmawl stated that Mousa cide attempt, is now in custody. more asylum seeker woes to report. was repeatedly prevented from getting After the Directorate of Immigration hospital treatment due to being listed refused to grant him political asylum as an army rebel”, DV also reported. “In in Iceland, Palestinian asylum seeker the doctor’s letter it was requested that Mousa Sharif Al Jaradat went on a five- Mousa be allowed to leave so that he day hunger strike, and then slit his wrist could receive proper treatment”. in a suicide to attempt. Political asylum—the kind that anna andersen julia staples When Mousa called the Grapevine Mousa and Mehdi are after—has been 66°NORTH wows New York ICELAND’S POLAR BEAR POLICY Collection impresses fashion critics

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Scan the code www.66north.com The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 What's going on in Spain? Do you think they're maybe overinterpreting what's been going on in Iceland? Or should we Icelanders get inspired 8 back and start fighting the system anew?

News | International INSPIRED BY ICELAND? Was ‘the pots and pans revolution’ imported by Spain?

Iceland and Spain are about as dis- dred politicians that were seeking elec- similar as chalk and cheese. How- tion on May 22 were also under judicial ever, the two nations have lately investigation, most of them belonging found they might have a thing or to PP and PSOE). two in common. Namely, they have come to share a common point of Where it all started view about their politicians: That One of the biggest problems citizens they are rubbish. have when they are surrounded perma- So, if in the fall of 2008 most nently by political scandals, corruption, Icelanders rose up against their incompetent politicians and greedy, corrupt political class, three years unscrupulous bankers, is they tend to later (better late than never) the view this situation as natural and even- Spaniards mimic those claims tually get used to it. against their politicians. Since May A spark is needed to wake up 15, thousands of people have taken people from th eir sleep. In this case to the streets in a wave of demon- it came from an old Frenchman called strations all over the country. The Stéphane Hessel, who at ninety-three main demand: A real democracy. years, has managed to encourage citi- zens to a peaceful insurrection with his How to cook an angry riot bestselling pamphlet titled Indignez- The easiest way to cook a fresh dish of vous! (“Time for Outrage!”). This old annoyed citizens is to mix the proper member of the French resistance and ingredients into the pot. Holocaust concentration camp survivor First of all, add a big dose—a really has reached the youth with his pas- big dose—of unemployment. Icelanders sionate writing about the risks of be- tend to get upset about their unem- ing indifferent to political issues, urg- ployment rate (around 7%) but perhaps ing a non-violent insurrection against they don’t know that in the country the powers of capitalism. The Spanish where Cervantes was born, the situa- youngsters, seduced by Hessel’s words tion is a bit worse. In Spain, the over- and with the Icelandic revolution as a all unemployment level reaches 21%, model (or their idea of it), have woken which means that five million people, up and taken to the streets. who should be earning their bread This is the way Democracia Real Ya! and butter every morning, instead kill (“Real Democracy Now!”) was born; a large corporations. All the main news- consists of the unemployed, pension- got elected; this seems, to say the least, their time in the park feeding pigeons. group of citizens fed up with the sys- papers in Spain belong to big media ers, mothers who want a better future strange. Samuel González, who has fol- What’s more, that rate grows to 45% tem, who organised a mass protest on groups, each of them supporting a spe- for their children and all sorts of citi- lowed the events from the beginning, amongst people under 25, the highest May 15 in Sol, a centric and well-known cific party. Independent journalism is zens that have something in common: tries to explain this: “We have to take recorded unemployment rate for young square in Madrid. But surprisingly almost non-existent. So it’s not difficult their weariness with the current politi- into account two things. One is the ca - people in any developed country. the movement didn’t stop there, since to guess that most news are biased and cal and economic system. It’s not a rally pacity for self-criticism of the left wing If this is not enough, the average people decided to stay camped for the focused on propaganda, in an elegant, against a particular government, but an voters, that don’t doubt in punishing lucky Spaniard (that strange animal in whole week, until municipal and local sort of post-modern way. outraged shout against corruption, ma- their own party if they do things wrong. danger of extinction who is able to find elections on May 22. The gathering be- Thus, readers can find different im- nipulation and fake democracy. The other one is the lack of sensibility a job) has to deal with another beast; came more and more massive, people pressions depending on which paper Toñy García, a 53 years old woman against the corruption from those on work that is insecure and poorly com- rallied against the politicians and the they have in their hands. If for the left participating in the demonstrations, the right”. pensated for, especially for younger bankers under the motto “we are not wing press the rallies mean the anger says: “There are a lot of people but they Whatever, a feeling of deception generations that in many cases are goods in the hands of politicians and of the people with the well-known cor- truly have everything well organised. has appeared in a part of ‘The Out- forced to live with their parents until bankers”, many people were showing ruption problem of the right party, the There’s not a drop of alcohol here nor raged’. “The election results show that the age of 35. Icelandic flags, chanting: “We want to press related to the latter claim that it’s flags related to any party, they pick up most people are only concerned with By now you might be wondering be Icelanders!” and “If Iceland could, a movement against the incompetence the rubbish and keep everything clean, their own welfare rather than a com- what politicians are doing to overcome Spain can!”. And suddenly, the miracle of the socialist government of José Luis not giving any reason for the police to mon purpose. This is a sign of absolute that unsustainable situation. Well, not happened and the rallies spread and Rodriguez Zapatero. If the people are intervene. They are acting in an intel- short-sightedness”, says Lucía Tornero, much. They are precisely the great so- became international, with demonstra- particularly critical with them, they are ligent way”. Her sister Tere adds: “We a young journalist I spoke to. cial cancer in the eyes of the people ral- tions in many cities all over the world only a group of young ruffians and anti- are determined not to be sitting there But there are also a few who be- lying in the streets. Most of the politi- such as Brussels, Edinburgh, Tokyo, system Bolsheviks. doing nothing. We aren’t animals going lieve that change is still possible and cal class seems to be more concerned London or even Reykjavik, where But nothing is further from the truth, to the slaughterhouse”. won’t resign, like Juana, who thinks about helping bankers instead of com- Birgitta Jónsdóttir made an emotive since Democracia Real Ya! states that that “there’s something special in the mon people and an important number speech supporting the Spanish rebel- they are a “non-partisan citizen gather- And now… air in Sol, something that must not be of politicians from the two main par- lion. ing created and encouraged by Internet The regional elections on May 22 end- stopped; that makes you think every- ties—right wing Partido Popular and and social networks […] whose unique ed with an overwhelming victory of the thing is not lost”. socialist PSOE—are suspected of being Press equals politics purpose is to promote open discussion right-wing Partido Popular over PSOE. corrupt, and furthermore most of them One of the funniest and peculiar fea- among all those who wish to become That is funny if we consider all these involved in the preparation and coordi- people were fighting for great changes José Ángel Hernández are still holding their public offices in a tures about Spanish press is its close Gonzalo Hernández matter-of-fact way (more than a hun- ties to the main political parties and nation of joint actions”. This movement and then the most conservative party

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Visit our sales office downtown at Lækjartorg square ( Like-yar-torg), call (+354) 540 1313 or go to www.grayline.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 Jón Baldvin Hannibalssson, a former leader of the Icelandic Social-Dem- ocratic Party partly resides in Salobrena, Granada, where he voted in the local elections, and his party (PSOE—Partido Socialista Obrero Espanol) 10 won an overall majority

News | Maybe local?

A LETTER FROM BARCELONA

Is Iceland Inspiring Revolutions?

The sun is rising in Plaça Catalunya, Barcelona. Some people are still sleep- ing while others try to prepare break- fast for everybody in Comissió de cuina (“kitchen's commission”). Maybe it is trend topic on Twitter, but it is difficult to see lots of people during the morning or in their sleeping bags during nights. It seems that all ‘The Outraged’ want is a democratic regeneration, as spoken by the platform Real Democracy Now (DRY). The truth is that thousands of young people have been camping out in various city squares around Spain; the blame placed on the economic cri- sis is, however, in their opinion not the most important point. They ask for a better democracy and that’s why they put their attention to Iceland; and not only for its inspiring democratic move- ment of late, but also because of the “nei” that citizens said about paying for the mistakes from a private bank. This last Friday (May 27) it seemed a pitched battle. At 7 am, while people were still sleeping, Mossos d’Esquadra (the Catalan police) and local po- THE POLITICS OF FAILURE? lice ganged up to try and “clean” the square to prevent possible damages if F.C. Barcelona were to win the Cham- What’s happening in Spain? What’s happening all over the world? pions League against Manchester Utd. the day after [Barcelona won]. They have started to remove tents, comput- Normally, local elec- SIN CURRO, SIN PENSION—PERO SIN “The Economist recently published a survey on ers, posters, food, gas and other things tions in Spain are not big MIEDO (youth without future, without from the camp. The worst part is that news. Compared with the an apartment, without work, without the super-rich and the rest of us. Here is their 121 people have been injured, 84 of them part of ‘The Outraged’ group. The desperate revolt against pension—but without fear). conclusion: The richest 10% control 83% of the authorities insist on their intention of “it tyrants in the Arab world now be- WHY VOTE—if you think it doesn’t mat- was just to clean” but ‘The Outraged’ ing acted out on our TV-screens, it ter at all? If you have no confidence in world’s assets” (“los indignados” in Spanish) claim it’s looks like small fries. any of the political parties? After all, closer to an eviction. political parties are the basic instru- In Barcelona, the square of protest It is hardly big news if an opposition ments of a functioning democracy. But though 90% of the world’s adults share many nation-states became dependent is divided in three symbolic areas: Tah- party makes some gains when a two- why vote, if you think the political par- between them 17% of total wealth, more on “financial markets” to refinance their rir, Iceland and Palestine, and in sev- terms ruling party has manifestly failed ties are—behind different facades and than 50% of humanity own nothing at debt. Then the owners of capital in- eral corners where protestors attempt to deal effectively with a major eco- slogans—all the same? all. sisted on risk surcharges on their inter- to organise logistics, communication, nomic crisis, causing massive unem- Well, then—democracy isn’t work- FINANCIAL WEALTH, as opposed to est, making the cost of debt-servicing lectures and scheduled assemblies. ployment and general economic hard- ing—is it? And that is the plain truth the income generated by the real econ- unsustainable. Again, taxpayers have to Commissions ask for what they need ship to the people. and the main lesson of the Spanish omy, has during those thirty years grown pick up the bill. So the order of the day via Facebook or Twitter, and indeed it One peculiar local result merits at- elections: Democracy is in crisis. The to become more than ten times the is this: Increase your taxation and cut seems that social networks are playing an important part in revolutions. Every tention. In Valencia, the Conservatives neo-conservative ideology of the om- world’s GDP. It is, incidentally, the same your social expenditures. Money talks, day at 7 pm, people are invited to meet offered the voters a list of candidates nipotence of so called free markets has ratio as the Icelandic banks’ growth as the Americans say. The “financial at Plaça Catalunya and participate in an where all ten in the top seats had been ruled the world for three decades, and beyond our GDP! This vast wealth is markets” have spoken. Why then vote? assembly for being able to discuss dif- indicted before the elections in a court has during its rule rendered democracy controlled by a tiny international elite— THE WELFARE STATE is under a con - ferent topics. Although there are some case, accused of major corruption (for itself almost impotent. Why vote, if the although predominantly American. The tinuous onslaught by the forces of inter- interesting proposals, others tend be defrauding the public, accepting bribes financial elites that own this world have neo-con ideology is about their rights to national capital, which are using state on the sillier side, like abolishing Parlia- and falsifying accounts). The crooks the power to dictate to politicians what profits, to the exclusion of any state ac- treasuries as a risk-safe object for their ment. won by a landslide. Our own Icelandic is permissible, and what is not, for the tion to redistribute wealth. It excludes profiteering. The welfare state is the It’s thus hard to tell if this is the way. Conservatives could easily put up such state to do? democracy. And it confronts social de- product of many decades of democratic It’s said that people in their twenties a list of candidates. Would they win? For the past thirty years, the neo-con mocracy, which is about equality. Why action by people, who wanted to tame shouldn’t be wasting their time protest- WHAT IS THE FUSS THEN? Well, it is ideology has ruled the world. Its basic then not vote against the plutocracy? “the wild beast” of capitalism and cre- ing in the squares instead of studying; not only that although the ruling party postulates—omnipotence of the mar- The US originated international fi- ate, through “people’s power”, a stable nevertheless the protests reiterate the was justly punished, the opposition kets and impotence of the state—are nancial crisis was caused by the bot- and just society. fact that what we have here is not de- mocracy not only “because politicians did not win by a landslide, far from it. simply incompatible with democracy. tomless greed of this financial elite be- Now all of this is being challenged and banks are a team” but also because Rather it is because a sizeable segment This ideology is in practice the political ing let loose on the WORLD without the by the forces of reaction. Is there a new of the dominant, two party political sys- of society, the young, the poor and the theory of plutocracy—the dictatorship of democratic state reining it in through generation ready to take up the chal- tem (the conservative party [PP] and excluded, didn’t vote at all. international capital. legislation, regulation and supervi- lenge? That is what the young and ex- the socialists [PSOE]) that vehemently Why? A frontpage photo in El Pais says The Economist recently published a sion. When their avarice had pushed cluded in la Puerta del Sol were groping resist any change or restructuring of it all. A young man, standing by a pro- survey on the super-rich and the rest of the financial system to the brink of for. But before they can hope for any the system. test sign in La Puerta del Sol in Madrid, us. Here is their conclusion: The rich- bankruptcy, the state came to the res- success they must for sure learn one By now, ‘The Outraged’ have started where hundreds of thousands of people est 10% control 83% of the world’s cue and bailed the bastards out on the hard won lesson by heart: “Know thy wondering if football might be more gathered before the elections to vent assets. Within the elite, the super-rich presumption that the System had grown enemy”! important to Spain than democratic their frustration, wore a T-shirt with the 80 thousand individuals or so (out of 7 “too big to fail”. change. following statement printed up front: billion humans on EARTH), control the Taxpayers had to pick up the bill. Jón Baldvin HAnnibalssson Anna Solé Sans JUVENTUD SIN FUTURO: SIN CASA, vast majority of the world’s assets. Al- With too much debt in their accounts, El Pais Jose Ángel Hernándéz OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 8-20 Tel. 3390 533 REYKJAVÍK, 101 CINTAMANI BANKASTRÆTI 7 MON-FRI 10-18, SAT 11-14 SAT 10-18, MON-FRI 533 3805 Tel. GARÐABÆ, 210 CINTAMANI AUSTURHRAUNI 3 KRINGLAN'S OPENING HOURS 533 3003 Tel. REYKJAVÍK, 103 CINTAMANI KRINGLUNNI CINTAMANI WWW.CINTAMANI.IS

ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS CIN 54439 04.2011 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 Are you a foreign parent in Iceland? Do you think this group is a good idea? Because we do! Go find them on Facebook and join, won't you? 12

Immigration | Suppport Sticking Together And Fitting In Foreign mothers talk about the Icelandic experience

partner, but it's hard to socialise with Icelanders. Until you get a drink in them, “I think speaking Icelandic has been the biggest that is”. challenge for me. It's not easy to do when you have a “I think speaking Icelandic has been You Are Invited! the biggest challenge for me. It's not child. I honestly can't pronounce half the words. Not easy to do when you have a child. I hon- estly can't pronounce half the words. even my boyfriend can understand what I'm saying Not even my boyfriend can under- stand what I'm saying sometimes. sometimes. The biggest advantage, though, would The biggest advantage, though, have to be how child-friendly this country is” would have to be how child-friendly this country is”.

Anja, originally from Poland: “Everyone here speaks English, and yet I Karen, originally from the US: Krystal, originally from the US: have a hard time finding any information “I've been here 19 months. My husband “I've been here nine years, and I feel al - for parents in English. I have two kids is British, and works for CCP. I agree Ice- most embarrassed speaking English to here. At first I was stuck at home, which landers can be very anti-social. When I my son”. made me depressed. Now I can speak go to my child's school, the Icelanders Icelandic—that's the main thing that won't even look me in the face. I have to Melvina, originally from Poland: made a big difference in my life. I think sort of force myself upon them, and I do “I think the experience a foreigner will maybe interpreters make people lazy greet them in Icelandic. I went out once have in Iceland depends on what you're about learning the language. They hang with a group of Icelanders. They knew I used to. Coming from Poland, I think out with other Polish people, where they spoke English, but no one said anything the social services for children here are It's been noted many times that Ice - ing the group is only two weeks old. In only speak Polish together, everything to me. It's like they wanted nothing to do great, but a friend of mine from Switzer - land is a country that treats children that short span of time, the group has they read is in Polish. The funny thing with me. Having said that, the parents land thought they were a joke. The most well. Many new arrivals have re - already attracted over 140 members about language is, even though I speak that I've gotten to know through ac - difficult part is learning the language, marked on this point, often citing the and counting. For now, the group uses Polish to my child, he answers me in Ice- tivities outside of school, like soccer or definitely. But I'm also shy, so maybe the amount of social services devoted to a Facebook page (search for ‘Iceland landic. He understands the Polish, you gymnastics, they're more open. So are problem is mostly me. My husband is kids, as well as the existence of ba - International Parents Group’) but Si - know, but prefers to speak the language the ones who've lived abroad. Icelandic, and I think it's probably easier bies in carriages left outside cafés néad says she hopes to get a website up here. Yeah, I'd agree that the main ad - “The most challenging thing for me is for us who have Icelandic partners, but while their moms sip lattés, content soon. vantage here is how child-friendly it that there's really no stay-at-home-mom I can understand every side of the situ - in the knowledge that no one is go - As with any group of immigrants, is. You try finding changing tables in culture. I wanted to be a stay-at-home ation. I think the connection we all have ing to snatch their child here. Ice - you can find the dual desire to band a shop in London. Here, I find chang - mom, but I had no choice but to put my here, with each other, is that we're here land really is a children's paradise. together and support each other, while ing tables in cafés, little toy corners in child in day care. The isolation and the because we want to be. If you decide at the same time wanting to reach out banks. It's nice”. ignorance are also a problem. You can't what you want to do, you can do it”. But how well can you utilise the servic - and connect with the locals. For exam - get information in English easily, and I es available when you don't speak the ple, while these parents will share what Angela, originally from Germany: don't just mean the legal stuff; I mean Sinéad, originally from Ireland: language, the websites have little or no they've learned with each other, they've “I think Icelanders don't get in touch things like activities that are going on. “I came to Iceland three years ago. My information in English, and there aren't also talked to the local library about with you if they don't have to. They're That's one of the things that's so good husband is Icelandic, and his family any locals who can really help you out? having a children's day, where they open to a certain point, but you'll find about this group, hearing about things helped out a lot. It's sometimes a dif - You do what most immigrants do around could explain what books and songs that the open ones are the ones who like this. As far as language goes, I find ferent story with the CCP wives, who the world—you turn to other immigrants. their children are being taught. spent some time living overseas. I've that while Icelanders speak English to come here with their non-Icelandic The moms—there were no dads been here 14 years, and I have almost no me, they will speak Icelandic to my child. spouses. They get almost no help find - A SUPPORT GROUP OF SORTS around on this day, either—hail from Icelandic friends. I'm the one who has to On the plus side, it is really safe here. ing resources, and the language barrier This is exactly what Sinéad McCarron England, Poland, Ireland, Germany and call them if I want to get together and You don't have to worry about someone is a huge problem. When I've brought had in mind when she created a group the US. Some of them are new arrivals, socialise. I think this is maybe because snatching your child or something”. this up before, some Icelanders have called Iceland's International Parents some have been here for years; some they're shy. Sometimes they're rude, but said to me, 'Well, learn Icelandic then'. Group. “I think there's a need for it”, of them have Icelandic partners, others I think for the most part, when they meet Jessie, originally from the US: Icelanders do speak English to my child, she told me. “It really helps out in deal - don't. But all of them had plenty to say a foreigner, they're unsure about what “I moved to Iceland last January. What though. One great thing about this ing with the language barrier. A lot of about their experience so far in Iceland. to do in this situation. I'm the one who I really like about it here is that Ice - country is that there are a lot of breast- people seem to think that since every - has to start things”. landers regard their children as assets feeding rooms, but even when there one speaks English here, it should be no Holly, originally from England: “The biggest challenge for me is the to the country. Strangers have actually aren't, people don't make a big fuss if problem figuring out what you need to “I've been in Iceland for four years now. fact that I don't have my family here. My congratulated me on the street for hav - you decide to feed your child in public. do as a foreigner with a child in Iceland. It was originally only supposed to be for mom came for two weeks once, but all ing a child. It's a nice feeling in contrast But at the same time, our kids have in - But there's a real lack of resources in six months, but then I met my current my family live abroad. Another thing is, with back home, where people might ternational friends. That's why we see terms of information available in Eng- boyfriend. There's a lot of stuff I miss, the Icelandic system sort of punishes look at a child as another mouth to feed. Icelandic parents are welcome to join lish. Of course, it's easier if you have an things I don't hear about from the pa - you financially if you want to stay home Here, they really value children. I'm from our group. I feel positive, overall. I'm not Icelandic partner, but not everyone has pers. But someone will post something with your child for more than a year. New York, and that's a very transient just living my life for me anymore. I've one. So this is a support group of sorts”. on the group's Facebook wall, and that Your benefits get reduced. It's good place. People are always coming and got a smile on my face”. Although she emphasises that Ice- way I don't miss out. I have loads of Ice- for a child to have a mother stay home going, so it's more social, people open landic parents are welcome—especially landic friends—my boyfriend is Icelan - longer. I was a little disappointed about up more. Here, I think people have their in being able to explain to the foreign dic—but the most important thing for me that. On the plus side, it is a very child- set groups that they socialise with. You parents what their resources are—when has just been knowing there are other friendly country. I just wish my child had have to sort of force yourself into those paul fontaine I stopped by to pay a visit to the group people in the same position. I think Ice - more opportunities to play with other groups if you want to socialise with Ice - there were no Icelanders present. Al- landers are very tight-knit. Of course it children”. landers”. though to be fair, at the time of writ - makes a difference having an Icelandic Sticking Together And Fitting In

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Largest mobile mobile The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 Have you given any thought to Iceland's fishing quota system? Do you think it's something worth spending your thoughts on? Or is it all 14 worthless pap that grown-ups should worry about. TELL US.

Iceland | Justice A CIVIL (COD) WAR? Many people find the sub- fishing quotas. This pitted neighbour ed so that the ship owners could take erally in polls, more than 70 percent of ject impossibly boring, Words against neighbour, the solidarity of the out ever higher loans. As a result, the the nation is against the present sys- but it is always simmering Egill Helgason fishing towns was broken—suddenly fishing industry is mired in debt, the to- tem. Most people seem to favour more under the surface of Icelan- the man next door had become fabu- tal sum is about 500 billion ISK—in real- radical changes than the government dic society. Many do not understand Illustration lously wealthy from selling his quota, ity creditors are the de facto owners of proposes. it, but others are totally obsessed by Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir which up to then had been a common much of the industry. But there is strong opposition. The it. We are talking about fish—or more good for the society. The quota might But there has always been a catch. Federation of Icelandic Fishing Ves- specifically, the system under which then have been transferred to another Firstly, the laws on fishing state that the sel Owners is maybe the most power- Icelanders manage their fisheries. Now service all the foreign debt amassed town—leaving the townspeople without stocks are the property of the nation. ful lobby group in the country. They things are coming to a head with the in Iceland during the boom years. A work and income, their houses gradu- Secondly, using quotas as collateral have access to parliamentarians, trade government’s proposals to transform change is not foreseeable in the near- ally becoming worthless. for borrowing is forbidden. But this has unionists and local politicians who the system. est future. So money is rolling into the simply been ignored—and now we have tremble before them. They are also very fishing industry, while many other parts NEOLIBERAL AGENDA a huge system that is terribly hard to strong in the media. Two of the largest THE COD WARS of society are suffering. So this was not only a question of pre- unwind. newspapers are on their side. The lead- "Life is saltfish", is an old Icelandic say- serving the fishing stocks, there was ership of the right wing Independence ing. And it is true that Icelanders have THE ORIGINS OF AN UNPOPULAR also an economic neoliberal—agenda, A BIT OF FEUDALISM Party, traditionally the largest party in been very dependent on fish. There SYSTEM even though few realised this at the There are many sources of discontent- Iceland, is against all change, even if was an economic boom connected to So why change the system now? The time. It was claimed that by this quasi- ment within the system. One is that many party members might be vehe- the great herring fishing in the early left wing govern- the fishing towns have mently against the quota system. And 20th century, commonly referred to ment, which came suffered. Another is the banks, which have a stake in much as "the herring adventure". This finally into power after the that many ship owners of the fisheries through loans, are using collapsed in 1967 due to overfishing, crash, promised to actually do not fish the their clout behind the scenes, claiming and the result was a severe economic make very ambi- quotas themselves, but that any changes would be disastrous crisis with ensuing unemployment and tious changes to rent them out at high for the economy. There is talk of expro- emigration. Icelandic society. It prices to fishermen priation, nationalisation and Mugabe- And possibly the greatest moment was going to right who do not have quo- like policies. of our small republic was when we had old wrongs. One of tas. Up to 42 percent the better of the British in a series of these is the quota of the quota is rented BEST SYSTEM IN THE WORLD? "cod wars", lasting from 1948 to 1976. system on which out in this way. So in Some claim that we have the best fish- There, we managed to drive a huge the fisheries are this aspect the system eries system in the world. Most of the British fleet of trawlers from the wa- based. In the begin- is almost feudal. Very ship owners would of course say so, but ters around Iceland and establish a 200 ning it was set up to little of the money sees also some politicians and academics. It nautical mile economic zone around manage dwindling its way into the cof- is sometimes compared to the failure Iceland. stocks. In the early fers of the government. of EU fishing policies. Still the Norwe- 1980s Icelanders, There is a resource gians and the Faroese have a different FISHERIES AND THE WEAK KRÓNA after an extensive tax, but it has always system with quite good results. There One of the main tasks of Icelandic poli- modernisation of been nominal. In a is a widespread sense that great injus- tics has been to diversify the monoto- the fleet, was fish- recent article it was tice was perpetrated when the quotas nous industries of the country. In the ing up to 400 thou- compared to renting a were given out—and with the ensuing sixties, aluminium was seen as the al- sand tonnes of cod flat in Reykjavik for 100 speculation. Thus, almost overnight, a ternative, and it still is to some. Tourism every year. In the Euros per month. Some new overclass was created. The fisher- is of course a growing industry, but the last years it has attempts have been ies have amassed a lot of debt and the most interesting experiment was when sometime been as made to patch up the stocks haven’t really grown. There is Iceland was to become an international little as 130 thou- system, for example by also a UN Human Rights Commission financial centre. This succeeded for a sand tonnes. In augmenting the fisher- ruling from 2008 stating that the quota while. In 2007, it was noted that when some ways higher ies of small boats close allocation system is discriminatory and fishing quotas were cut severely it had prices make up for this, fish is now an privatisation, the fisheries would be- to the coast. But this in turn has been thus unlawful. no impact at all on the Icelandic stock expensive commodity—it is not sold come more efficient. But soon the ben- changed into quotas—with ever grow- This matter has been like a fester- market. People truly thought that Ice- anymore, frozen into a block, to be con- eficiaries of this system started using ing complexity. ing sore on the body politic for more land had entered a new phase—that we sumed in American prisons. the quotas—i.e. the fish in the sea—as than two decades. Sometimes it seems were no longer a nation of fishermen. The quotas were allocated to fishing collateral, taking out huge loans that MUDDLED PROPOSALS it might disappear, but it has a way of A year later the banks came tumbling vessels, so their keepers became the didn’t necessarily go back into the So now there might be time for a show- popping up again—most often before town; now these dreams of financial ship owners, not the fishermen them- industry. Much of the sudden quota down. The government made lofty elections. Napoleon Bonaparte once glory just leave a bad aftertaste. selves or the towns where the fisheries wealth was used for private consump- promises when it took over, but now its said that men will fight more deter- So we are basically back to fishing operated. After a piece of legislation, tion, for building of shopping malls in proposals seem very confusing—they minedly for their interests than for their and society has had to adapt to that. that no one seemed to notice at the Reykjavík, or simply moved out of the come as a disappointment to many. This ideals. We might be in for a bitter fight For example the Icelandic króna’s ex- time, the fishing quota became trans- country. is a compromise between the Social over the quotas—not a cod war this time change rate is now impossibly low for ferable which started a lively business— It is generally considered that this Democrats, who have been of the opin- but a civil cod war—but while most of the general population of Iceland. But vessel owners, large and small, started was a prelude to the big economic ion that the quotas should be gradually the population wants to overturn the for the fisheries this is very beneficial. selling their quotas. Soon they started bubble that finally destroyed Iceland’s taken over by the state and then rented system, power definitely favours the The fish fetches a high price in foreign falling into fewer hands, now a few economy. The price for a kilo of un- out, and the Left Greens, who favour a capitalists. In fact, most likely they will currencies. This makes it possible to dozen people "own" most of Iceland’s fished cod was constantly being inflat- system that is more regionalistic. Gen- prevail.

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Glacier Grand Slam is our best selling combination tour in Skaftafell. This tour combines some of the best sights Vatnajökull National Park has to offer. Glacier hiking on the majestic glacier, Falljökull, followed by a boat ride on the famous Jökulsárlón (Glacier Lagoon). Tour includes pick up from the Skaftafell campsite and lunch. Departs everyday at 9.00 am.

Glacier Hike Ice Climbing Climbing Cycling Sightseeing Boat Trip www.glacierguides.is | [email protected] | + 354-571-2100 | Visit us at Fjallakofinn outdoor shop - Laugavegur 11 - 101 Reykjavik The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 Next time Marc makes Þorramatur with his Great Aunt Freyja and gets serious blood on his hands. 16

Food | Icelandic How Icelanders Eat Part one: Canned peas, liquorice and ice cream

done, especially if you have a craving landers struggled desperately to feed for horsemeat sausage. themselves. Some infants were weaned “Sixty years ago, there was no se- on rich mare’s milk, as their moth- lection in the shops at all”, says Mar- ers just didn’t have the constitution to grét Sigfúsdóttir, Head of Hússtjórnar- nurse. skólinn, Reykjavik’s Domestic Studies “The best place to live back then College. “You could always get fresh was probably Breiðafjörður. You had fish, lamb too—if you had the money; fair farming land, good fishing. Sea but when I was a little girl you couldn’t birds were abundant, and at some even get spices: just salt, pepper, bad stage, Icelanders have eaten them curry, bay leaves, old onions, and if you all (and their eggs). In Breiðafjörður were lucky, a couple of sticks of cinna - you also had seal and the occasional mon. Back then, people ate simply but whale”. they ate healthy. Fish was boiled, sauce “What about pork? Beef?” was a bit of melted lamb fat. Vegetables “There wasn’t the right infrastruc- were carrots, Swede, turnips, cabbage, ture or buildings for pigs. Pig farming perhaps a little seaweed”. came much later. Cows were mostly “When I was an au pair in New York kept for their milk, which was essential in the ‘60s I ate my first bell peppers, my in the Icelandic diet. The sturdy Viking first corn-on-the-cob. The vegetable sheep could pretty much take care of selection in Iceland can’t compare with itself. That’s why lamb is still a very reg- London or New York, even now; but it’s ular feature on most Icelandic menus. come a long way. In the ‘60s and ‘70s, In latter years, Danish trading ships more and more international influences delivered luxuries like flour, coffee, salt, arrived. Now, of course, there’s hardly spices; but of course, it was all so dear. a town in Iceland that doesn’t boast its Icelanders made do with what they own Thai restaurant”. had. They pickled meat in whey. That’s “But one thing I can’t understand”, I where the whole Þorramatur tradition ask Margrét. “Why is the fruit and veg comes from. They had skyr, which is a selection in Icelandic supermarkets still fantastic protein source; and, of course, so poor? I mean there are daily flights they smoked fish and meat alike. Much to New York, London, Frankfurt. Are of these foods are still part of the old The other day my girlfriend and I had a bles where a roast lamb is being served diet was fish throughout the week, Icelanders not interested in artichokes customs. One loves what one grows up craving for sushi. Ok, so this isn’t Tokyo. for Sunday lunch. Quite likely you’ll rice pudding on Saturdays, roast lamb and Shiitake mushrooms and nectar- with”. You’re not going to get a Ginsu knife- get a dollop of sweet canned red cab- on Sundays, and piles of potatoes with ines and fresh white asparagus?”. And then there’s the question of all wielding chef plucking a live salmon bage and if you’re lucky a smattering of every meal. All this fuelled the hard “No, I think many of us are inter- that candy and ice cream. Icelanders from a tank and segmenting it to death jarred beetroot or maybe a pickle to go working Icelander through his bitter ested. Icelanders are well travelled. just adore it, particularly anything with right in front of you; still, Icelandic fish along with it. winters. More comfort meant more ef- Personally, I think it’s the Icelandic su- liquorice in it. There are those who visit is among the best I’ve eaten—raw or Katrín, my friend Siggi’s mother, ficient heating, better homes, which permarket chains. They’re thinking of an ice cream shop every single day of otherwise. Cut that Icelandic salmon has told me the story about her first meant you didn’t need all that stodge the bottom line. They don’t want to risk the week. On a Friday night—even in 4 mm thin, spice it up with a dab of apple umpteen times. It was Christmas and excess fat; so when cheap fast sitting on vegetables that only sell oc- winter—they’re lining up outside the wasabi, a slice of pickled ginger, and 1943. A handsome British soldier hailed food reared its head, it went straight to casionally. It’s a small market and some door for a bit of soft, milky delight with you have perfect sashimi. Great Aunt her down and handed it to her as he the waistlines and worsened the gen- tastes are still rather traditional”. liquorice sprinkles. Freyja winced and sighed. Although I’ll pinched her rosy cheeks. “Apples and eral health. I’ve been an advocate for I think what Margrét says may be During the course of our conver- give this to her: she managed to force oranges smell of Christmas”, she sighs healthy food ever since”. true—to a certain extent. I resolve to sations, I ask both Margrét and Solla, down three pieces plus a California roll. dreamily. And bananas? She was over We all know the dictum, “You are discuss this later with the supermarket “What’s this thing about Icelanders and Possibly it had something to do with thirty (bear in mind she didn’t travel what you eat”. Solla narrows her eyes chains themselves; yet, I do know that candy and ice cream?” They shrug, the hot sake. Still, I know Aunt Freyja abroad until ten years later). when I ask her if she has ever observed many of the older generation balks at they roll their eyes—slightly disapprov- would rather have half a sheep’s head Solla (Sólveig) Eiríksdóttir, possibly what your average Icelander stuffs into garlic, turn their noses up at rocket, and ingly. or hangikjöt (smoked lamb) with Ora Iceland’s best-known health food guru, his Bónus shopping bag. “Course, it’s grumble at broccoli. An olive isn’t even “Beats me”, says Margrét. peas any day of the week. explains how Icelandic eating habits the same all over the world”, she says. in it. But Ora peas? Ora peas seem to “Possibly a substitute for something A buyer for Bónus once told me that changed quite suddenly in the ‘70s: “Make it quick. No time. Many young hit the spot every single time. I have else”, says Solla. his bestselling vegetables were canned “When fast food first reached our families are living on Cheerios and TV an Icelandic friend who lives in Florida I don’t dare ask what, but I swear I’ll peas. And not just any old canned peas. shores—hamburgers, pizzas, fried dinners. I understand it though. To eat who flies in cartons of the stuff. Says get to the bottom of it. Ora brand is the leader by a long shot. If chicken in tubs—it was as if the nation, healthy in Iceland is not cheap”. he can’t stand those Green Giant peas you’ve shopped here, you’ll surely have having been starved of all their trans But, then again—and I’m sure Solla they sell in the States. noticed that neon yellow label. You can fats and carbohydrates, went quite would agree—the body is a temple; so Margrét tells me that before the ar- Marc Vincenz rest assured that they grace most ta- Kentucky Fried mad. The traditional eat less, but eat well. Easier said than rival of the potato in the mid 1700s, Ice- megan herbert

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Guided tours in Harpa Concerts in Kaldalón

Every day at 11.00 and 15.30 Price: ISK 1500 (10 Euros) Harpa presents concerts in Kaldalón at 17.00 by the Classical Concert Company of Reykjavík – a journey through traditional The tour lasts 45 minutes and is in English. It takes you on an Icelandic music. interesting walk around the many facilities of Harpa, through the main halls and spaces and gives you an opportunity to take a look Tickets on sale at www.harpa.is and at the box office in Harpa. at its unique architectural features. Book special tours at [email protected] or [email protected] or tel. +354 528 5009. Discounts for large groups. Excellent restaurants and shops

Enjoy dining at the outstanding „à la carte“ restaurant and bar Kolabrautin on the fourth floor. And for a cup of coffee or quick snack visit Munnharpan on the ground floor. Also on the ground level you’ll find 12 Tónar, a music shop with an extensive selection of music, and Epal, a Nordic design shop that also offers souvenirs from Harpa.

We look forward to seeing you in Harpa

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OH NO! IT'S HAPPENING AGAIN! GRÍMSVÖTN 2011

Farmer Erlendur Björnsson and his times larger than the 2004 Grímsvötn this darkness. It’s “öskumyrkur”, which wife Þórunn Júlíusdóttir were in eruption, and it produced more ash in translates to “ash darkness”. While it is “Erlendur explained to us that there is a specific Reykjavík celebrating their son’s the first 24 hours than the entire forty sometimes used to describe a dark Ice- Icelandic word to describe this darkness. It’s high school graduation when the day long Eyjafjallajökull eruption, which landic winter night, that darkness pales subglacial volcano Grímsvötn be- just one year ago paralysed air traffic in comparison to the darkness that en- ‘öskumyrkur’, which translates to ‘ash darkness’. gan erupting on Saturday evening. and stranded travellers all over Europe. sues when ash blocks out the sun, stars “We were eating dinner when we When they awoke the next morn- and lights. While it is sometimes used to describe a dark got the message and we simply ing around 7:30 AM, it was absolutely While Erlendur described the erup- Icelandic winter night, that darkness pales in thought, ‘Grímsvötn, that’s noth- pitch black outside, Þórunn told me. tion as a “medium sized Katla eruption”, ing. It has erupted over the last few Their farm, which sits just southwest he also noted that today Iceland has a comparison to the darkness that ensues when ash decades and we’ve never had any of Kirkjubæjarklaustur—80 kilometres rescue team, which distributed masks blocks out the sun, stars and lights” ash’”. from the eruption site—was pummelled and goggles to everyone in the area with thick ash and, unfortunately, they and stayed to help clean up the mess While Grímsvötn is Iceland’s most ac- had just put their flock of 200 sheep after the eruption quieted down. tive volcano, its eruptions have typically out for the summer, as is custom after We knew very well what he was jarklaustur when we could no longer Icelanders in the past few years. First it been small and short-lived. Not overly lambing season. talking about for we foolishly drove into see even one road marker ahead of was the collapse of the banks and the concerned, Erlendur and Þórunn left the ash on that Sunday morning. Pass- us. Stopped in ‘öskumyrkur’, there was Icesave dispute with the Brits and the Reykjavík just after midnight, got back ASH BLOCKS OUT THE SUN ing through Vík just before authorities no choice but to call Iceland’s rescue Dutch. Then it was the difficult-to-pro- to their farm Seglbúðir at 3:30 AM, and Iceland’s Route 1, which goes full circle closed the road on Sunday morning, we team. nounce-eruption that left thousands went to sleep. In retrospect they said around the island, was closed from experienced first-hand what was prob- of travellers, like the infamous “I Hate they were fortunate to get back that Sunday morning until Tuesday evening ably as close to the doomsday evan- THE TRAVEL INDUSTRY WORRIES Iceland” guy, stranded and Iceland’s night while it was still possible to see between Vík and Freysnes, a 145-ki- gelist Harold Camping had envisioned A French man we had met earlier driv- hotels empty. through the ash. lometre stretch in southeast Iceland on May 21, the evening that Grímsvötn ing from Kirkjubæjarklaustur back So the Icelandic government was The eruption turned out to be ten where the ash was at times so thick that erupted. We were prepared for the ash to Reykjavík had strongly advised us understandably worried about the the sun didn’t shine. to fill the car and seep into every nook against continuing on our trip. He eruption’s impact on the tourism indus- “It was something you had been told and cranny, but we were not prepared was in here scouting the country for a try. Iceland’s president, Ólafur Ragnar about, but didn’t believe”, Erlendur told for the hazy brown surroundings to turn French tourism company, and would be Grímsson, was harshly criticised for us. “People talk a lot about the 1918 pitch black as the ash blocked out the returning home with a negative impres- speaking overdramatically when Ey- Words when Katla erupted; it is said that peo - sun entirely. sion of Iceland as a viable tourist desti- jafjallajökull erupted last year, and the Anna Andersen ple crawled—they couldn’t walk—they “It feels like being snow-blind”, nation. “I can sell snow, I can even sell Icelandic Travel Industry Association crawled. I can tell you on Sunday it was Grapevine photographer Maroesjka rain, but I just cannot sell ash”, he said quickly sent a press release urging the Photography like that”. Lavigne said uneasily as she navigated matter-of-factly. media not to overdramatise the Gríms- Maroesjka Lavigne Erlendur explained to us that there the car into darker territory. We made The recent eruption was the latest in vötn eruption. is a specific Icelandic word to describe it within a few kilometres of Kirkjubæ- a series of crises to test the resolve of “It’s too much”, said Anna Þóris- dóttir, who was with a group of hikers was otherwise meagre income pro- descending Vatnajökull glacier when “Looking for shelter, some sheep fell into trenches vided by sheep farming, wasn’t worried Did Doomsday Hit Iceland? the Grímsvötn volcano began erupting about the impact that this would have The 89-year old evangelist Harold Camp- beneath the glacier. “We can explain on tourism. “Some might cancel, but and died. Others went temporarily or permanently ing predicted that the world would come one eruption, but an eruption year af- blind from the ash.” if anything, more will come out of cu- to an end on May 21. So aggressive was ter year? People are just going to stop riosity”, she said. “I’m full of hope and his campaign that the ads even appeared coming”. Unable to drive west, Anna happy to have the rain”. frequently in Icelandic newspapers. and the hikers headed east, full circle As The Economist reported on May Specifically, Harold predicted that the world would begin to shake at 18:00 and around the island, to return to Reykja- open-faced sandwiches for everyone. not as fortunate. Looking for shelter, 28: “ICELANDAIR, the island nation's then the chosen ones would be zapped up vík two days later. In the northeast, they The clock read 1:30 in the afternoon, some sheep fell into trenches and died. national carrier, has been quick to put to Heaven, leaving the rest of us to pre- faced snow and icy roads, which even but everything else pointed more to Others went temporarily or permanent- on a happy face in the wake of this sumably burn in hell (after a year or so in in Iceland is not your everyday summer 1:30 in the morning. “I thought I would ly blind from the ash. week's eruption of the Grimsvotn vol- purgatory). Citing reports that everything weather. have time to knit today”, María said cano”. was fine in New Zealand and Tonga, which would have been among the first dooms- At the same time, the Smyril Line pointing to her bag full of unfinished GRÍMSVÖTN SUBSIDES They based this on a press release day victims, Vísir was quick to report: “The ferry made its first trip of the summer work, “but we’ve had about 50 people, Ultimately it’s not travellers or tour- sent from the airline: “Curious visitors World Is Still Here”. from Denmark to Seyðisfjörður, an artsy counting nurses and the rescue team, ists who faced the brunt of the erup- have already begun to flock to the area, Then at 18:00 in Iceland, in an ironic fishing village in the Eastfjords of Ice- come in and out”. tion, but Iceland’s farmers, who have to eager to check out the affected area twist to the DOOMSDAY story, the Ice- land. Its 600 passengers found them- Then just as we had prepared to deal with the ash. With the exception and see the ash for themselves. How- landic Meteorological Office picked up increased seismic activity coming from selves stuck in the small town, pop. spend the night, the wind died down, of southeast Iceland, the country was ever, they will have to hurry because Grímsvötn, Iceland’s most active volcano. 668, where grocery stores were out of the hazy brown landscape reappeared largely free of ash, and those travellers the efficient ash clean-up operation is Hours later the subglacial volcano was milk for two days due to roads rendered and a local policeman informed us that who were briefly grounded in Reykjavík already progressing quickly and local erupting full force, sending a plume of ash impassable by non-eruption related we could drive back to Reykjavík. “But were granted free admission to muse- residents hope life in the southeast will 15 kilometres into the air. weather conditions. hurry”, he said. ums and swimming pools to ease the be back to normal very soon”. When the world did not end, Harold This was a relief for farmers who inconvenience it caused them. When we left Hunkubakkar, Jóhan- Camping released a statement explaining that he had actually just been five months THE ASH SUDDENTLY LETS UP had just let their sheep and new lambs Despite having spent the entire na was getting ready to host seventeen off. Apparently doomsday did in fact start Meanwhile, Iceland’s volunteer rescue out for the summer before Grímsvötn day cleaning, Jóhanna Jónsdóttir was fire fighters who were in the area to on May 21 as a "spiritual coming" and it will team could be counted on, and we began erupting. Among them were in good spirits when we met her at help spray houses down, for if the wet culminate in the real doomsday on October were guided to a community house in Jóhanna Jónsdóttir and her husband, Hunkubakkar late Wednesday evening. ash settles it becomes a stiff cement- 21. Kirkjubæjarklaustur where the Red Pálmi Harðarsson, who have 300 sheep She had taped windows and sealed like paste. To help with the cleaning ef- So maybe Grímsvötn goes beyond those two days of ash-bother? We’ll find Cross was looking after about a dozen at their farm Hunkubakkar. “It was re- doors with damp towels, but the ash forts, the government also put to work out soon enough. others who became stranded in the ash ally difficult to hear them crying ‘baaa’ still made its way into her house and Iceland’s unemployed, which are at 8.3 that Sunday morning. They pointed to a while we were inside”, Jóhanna told the twenty guesthouses she operates. percent today compared with 1 percent than they had expecting, they took it in stack of mattresses and suggested we us. “We couldn’t do anything; it wasn’t She anticipated vacuuming through before the economic crisis hit in 2008. stride. “We want to emphasise that this make ourselves comfortable. possible to go outside. It was so dark the weekend (so they can probably be Harold Camping may have been is not doomsday”, Þórunn told us. “This Local residents and volunteers Páll that when you put out your arm, you booked by now at www.hunkubakkar. right about earthquakes commencing is simply nature at work, and nobody Ragnarsson and his wife, María Guð- couldn’t see your own fingers”. is). at 18:00, but the rest turned out to be died”. mundsdóttir, had made a big pot of While Jóhanna and Pálmi didn’t lose Jóhanna, who relies on the guest- a bunch of hokey-pokey. While Þórunn Thus, life on a volcanically active is- asparagus soup and an assortment of any of their sheep, other farmers were houses to supplement what she said and Erlendur were hit by more ash land goes on.

Icelandic Volcanism: Where, Why & How? By James Ashworth

Iceland sure has been in the global floor. the scientific community, but the basic people would consider a volcano as a lava erupted from a crater of elongated news a lot this past year or so and a lot When we do so, we see that the is- fact is that there appears to be an area hole in the ground that erupts liquid fissure (collectively known as the vent). of that has been to do with volcanoes. land of Iceland is located on the cross- of anomalous heating under one spot rock, or magma—called lava once it The lavas here have very low viscos- So why does this little country, strand- ing place of two major linear features. on the crust, in this case under one part reaches the surface. But there is actu- ity—in other words they flow very eas- ed in the middle of the North-Atlantic, The first of these is a huge rift, running of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. This causes ally a vast range of different volcano ily—and are generally named ‘basalts’ have so many volcanoes and why are roughly north to south, splitting the At- more volcanism—and in turn, more types, all with different eruption styles due to their chemical composition. they so damned troublesome for the lantic in two. This is the Mid-Atlantic land production—along this section and hazards that come with them. Most Small bubbles of gas within the lava rest of the world? I was lucky enough Ridge, a zone where two of the plates of the ridge. It is believed that as the volcanically active areas of the world can escape easily and they essentially to cover the Eyjafjallajökull eruption for comprising the Earth are spreading plates spread apart along the ridge, the are typified by one or two types, but propel the lava high into the air. Over Grapevine last year and following the apart, creating new land as they do so. greater production at this point caused Iceland is rather unique in that it pos- the years, the lava spreads a long way recent eruption at Grímsvötn I’ve been In this case we have the North Ameri- a raised ridge to form as the plates sesses almost the full range of types. from the vent, resulting in large, flattish drafted to try to answer the many volca- can plate on the west side and the Eur- moved away from the hot-spot. The type of eruption a volcano volcanoes that we typically refer to as no-related questions that may be whiz- asian plate to the east. The ridge itself But what about Iceland itself? Hon- produces—and by extension therefore ‘shield volcanoes’. zing through your head. So hold onto is slightly raised from the surrounding estly I don’t think anyone is quite sure the type of volcanic edifice formed— Taking a step up from Hawaii we your hats, ladies and gentlemen, for this ocean floor, but nowhere near the wa- why Iceland sits so high above that depends largely on the type of lava can look at a volcano like Sakurajima whistle-stop tour through the complex ter surface, so this alone cannot explain ridge. For some reason, more land is produced. And this in itself depends in southern Japan, which has been science that is Icelandic volcanology... Iceland’s prominence. being produced faster now than in the mostly on where the lava comes from. erupting virtually every single day for For this we must turn to the other past and this has allowed an island to Without going into too much detail, the decades. This volcano produces more Why is Iceland even there, feature—a raised strip of ocean floor form above the surface of the ocean. explosivity of an eruption is generally viscous ‘andesite’ lavas, which trap gas anyway? running between the Faeroe Islands What it does mean, however, is that that related to how viscous (thick) the lava bubbles within them. Very simply, these Iceland looks like a very lonely country, and Scotland to the southeast and hot-spot still resides beneath Iceland is. bubbles grow in size while trapped in stuck most out of place amongst a sea Greenland to the northwest. What and this can account for much of the Think of the volcanoes in Hawaii, the thick magma, eventually bursting of, well, sea. So why has it sprung up caused this? Well, the current belief is country’s volcanism. for example. A good example of typical at the surface, often resulting in an ex- right there, of all places? To answer this that it is due to a so-called ‘hot spot’. hot-spot volcanism, the activity here plosion of glowing fragments of lava. question we must strip back the watery The exact reasons for hot-spot forma- A volcano is a volcano, right? most often comes in the form of spec- Volcanoes such as this tend to produce layer and take a good look at the ocean tion is still very much under debate in Not necessarily. On a basic level most tacular fountains of glowing orange more ash and can cause more prob- Desert Island Destruction up to 1.4 km in height and spewing out a total of 14 cubic kilometres of lava in total. My Top 5 volcanic eruptions The lava itself did relatively little damage, anywhere, ever but the gases emitted killed much of Ice- land’s livestock. This resulted in the deaths By James Ashworth of about a quarter of the Icelandic popula- tion. Worldwide it is estimated that around Listing one’s top five eruptions, anywhere, 6 million people may have died due to the ever, is hard work. I mean, just how do you Laki eruption—many of them due to short- rate an eruption, anyway? By duration, or term climatic change triggered by the erup- the number of deaths, or just the sheer scale tion, which brought about famine, drought of it? I really don’t know. So, I’ve just picked and crop failures. Despite happening a long five eruptions that are always memorable to time ago, there is nothing to say that this me—important for one reason or another. I will not happen again—rather sobering. hope that’ll do! So, in no particular order… lems for air traffic (something fresh in About a month later, however, you are lucky enough to visit the Land- Unzen, Japan, 1991 our minds after last year). They usually things changed. No sooner had the mannalaugar area, those fantastic yel- Mt. St. Helens, USA, 1980 Pinatubo may have stolen all of the limelight in 1991, but another eruption in the same form steeper-sided peaks, similar to the fissures calmed down, but a new one low and orange colours are caused by Starting it off with a famous one—how year is just as big a deal for me. Unzen, lo- typical conical volcano image you may opened—this time on the summit of exposed rhyolite rocks. In fact there are very cliché. This one has a place in my list because it was one of the eruptions that cated in southern Japan, had in 1792 pro- the volcano, directly beneath the gla- have in your head. even exposed rhyolitic lava flows and captured my imagination early on and is at duced a large pyroclastic flow that triggered At the top of this simplified scale cier ice. This time the lava was much domes in this area if you look for them. least partially responsible for my interest in a megatsunami, which claimed the lives of come the ‘rhyolite’ volcanoes, which different (andesite—explaining why And you know what the most con- volcanoes. It ‘only’ killed 57 people, which an estimated 15.000 people. The 1991 erup- tion was much more modest (although not have very thick lavas that are very re- this happened requires an article of its fusing thing is? Most volcanoes in Ice- was frankly a miracle, but the images of small!), but again produced a pyroclastic sistant to flowing. A typical rhyolite own) and this produced a much more land are in fact ‘volcanic systems’, with that volcano exploding sideways are iconic within the field. It was also very important flow. This time 43 people were caught in volcano (if there is such a thing!) could explosive eruption. This high explosiv- a pronounced ‘central volcano’ with in our understanding of how volcanoes can its path, including legendary French vol- perhaps be something like Chaiten in ity, aided by the lava coming in contact a long ‘swarm’ of fissures branching collapse, triggering a lot of very important canologists and filmmakers Maurice and Chile. They tend to erupt lavas in the with cold melting ice from the glacier, off from it. This is the result of differ- research, much of which is still extremely Katia Krafft. Especially poignant since I form of domes (which also occur at produced the now-infamous ash cloud ent types of volcanism within the same valuable. Lessons were learnt from this one have visited this volcano, it serves to remind that will be taught for years to come. me that no matter how well you think you andesite volcanoes), rather than spec- that shut down air space across main- system—often more explosive at the understand something, it can always come tacular explosions. However, these land Europe. While ash this fine and central volcano and more gently ef- Pinatubo, Philippines, 1991 back to bite you. domes are often unstable and may then troublesome is possibly quite unusual fusive along the fissures. Despite this, Another modern one and also rather fa- collapse, producing the fearsome ‘py- for an Icelandic eruption, explosive ac- the source of the lavas for each erup- mous. The second largest eruption of the Yellowstone Caldera, USA, roclastic flow’—an avalanche of rock, tivity is really rather common. tion in each system is more or less the 20th century erupted ash up to 34 kilome- 640.000 years ago What list would be complete without good debris and hot gases. Rhyolite volca- In fact, glaciers play a major role in same. Such diverse volcanism even tres into the air, reducing the mountain’s height by almost 300 metres. The ash and old Yellowstone? If ever you don’t find vol- noes often feature enormous craters, Icelandic volcanism. In past times, when within a few square kilometres poses aerosol particles released from Pinatubo canoes terrifying enough, you can always or ‘calderas’. Explosions may result in the entire country was buried under something of a dilemma for scientists circled the world, resulting in an average look here. Eruptions like Pinatubo and Laki some cases from rhyolitic activity, al- ice, the weight of the ice was enough eager to understand what is going on global temperature drop of 0.4°C. Good seem enormous, but they pale in compari- though they are not common. However, to constrain many eruptions and pre- and makes Icelandic eruptions argu- evacuation plans and monitoring by a team son with Yellowstone, which has produced several massive explosive ‘super-eruptions’ some of the largest eruptions in history vent them from breaking through it. ably even harder to forecast than most! of Philippine and American volcanologists undoubtedly saved thousands of lives, al- during its lifetime. During the last such have been of this type—think of the in- Most of the long ridges and flat-topped though more than 800 people were still event, the caldera ejected about 1.000 cu- famous Yellowstone, USA… hills (‘tuya’) you may see as you drive What’s next for Iceland? killed, largely as a result of roofs collapsing bic kilometres of rock—compare that to around the country are the result of It is clear that Icelandic volcanism is under the weight of ash and rain water. The Laki! The Yellowstone caldera (crater) is So how does this apply to volcanism constrained by ice. Addition- tremendously varied. It’s impossible images of the massive ash column from this about 55 by 72km in size, which is frankly hard to comprehend. Its history of destruc- Iceland? ally, as mentioned previously, the water to tackle in any detail in such a short eruption never fail to stagger me and serve as a stark reminder of the power of nature. tion is offset rather by the immense beauty As I hinted at earlier, Iceland has a bit of produced as it melts can cause explo- space (believe me, I could go on for and rich ecosystems now contained within almost everything crammed all into one sions—something responsible for even days, but I suspect there wouldn’t be Laki, Iceland, 1783-84 the caldera. Having visited Yellowstone place! Let’s look at last year’s Eyjafjalla- lavas that are traditionally less explo- anyone left reading by the end), but I Now for an Icelandic one. The Laki fissures, three times, it is safely one of my favourite jökull eruption as an example, shall we? sive producing quite violent eruptions. hope I have at least managed to touch thought to be part of the Grímsvötn volcanic places... but at the back of your mind you al- ways know that at some point it will almost The first stage of the eruption, Take the latest activity at Grímsvötn—a on some things that may pique your in- system, erupted for eight months between 1873 and 1874. Much of the lava erupted certainly happen again... which breached the narrow strip of basaltic eruption, if it had taken place terest. in massive fire fountains, reported to be exposed land between Eyjafjallajökull under plain air it would probably have In terms of what exactly Iceland and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers, was a small been quite benign. But because of frag- can expect in the future, no-one re- (but rather photogenic!) fissure erup- mentation due to all that ice and wa- ally knows. Volcanoes cannot be well Tuesday, May 24 produce beautiful, glowing fountains tion. It was somewhat similar to the sort ter… well, you’ve probably already seen predicted, only roughly forecasted. and some… well, Europe would be well of eruption you might see in Hawaii— the result! To this end, however, we can say that The eruption is de facto over in the advised to have contingencies in place a long crack in the ground, producing “But what about the rhyolite volca- in the long term it will most likely be evening and Road 1 is reopened. Ice- in case of another Eyjafjallajökull! towering fountains of glowing basalt noes”, I hear one or two of you ask? ‘more of the same’. Iceland is a growing landic Prime Minister Jóhanna Sig- lava and sending rivers of molten rock Well, if you visit one of the huge calde- country and it will continue to be volca- urðardóttir releases statement: “Our pouring down the mountainside. These ras like Askja you are standing inside nically active for a long time to come. geoscientists say that the eruption lava flows even had lava falls, showing what is known as a ‘caldera’, which are There will be some large eruptions and is waning day by day and that the how easily they could flow. A spec- often formed at least partly as a result plenty of smaller ones too. Some will problems arising in our neighbouring tacular ‘tourist eruption’, the first stage of very large rhyolite explosions. And if countries as a result of volcanic ash should be resolved quickly”. Hundreds didn’t really provide much of a threat to Monday, May 23 of flights remain grounded in British Wednesday, May 25 anyone. airspace. Ash is expected to reach Sunday, May 22 Road 1 remains closed. Wind picks up Germany late Tuesday evening, early Rain falls in the southeast and the and produces what is called a “öskub- Wednesday morning. Ryanair's CEO cleanup effort begins. President Saturday, May 21 Road 1 is closed between Vík and ylur” or “ash blizzard” near the town Michael O'Leary sends test flights into Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson visits ash- Freysnes. Ash falls so thick in some ar- Kirkjubæjarklaustur. US President the “high ash concentration zone” and affected residents and farmers. Bre- Grímsvötn confirmed erupting at eas that the sun is completely blocked Obama leaves Ireland a day early to concludes that it is “perfectly safe” men, Hamburg, Berlin, and Hannover 19:00. Ash plume reaches 15 kilo- out until 14:00. This is described as avoid being grounded by the ash. and that “there is nothing up there.” briefly close their airports on Wednes- metres in height. It can be seen from “öskumyrkur” or “ash darkness”. KLM and British Airways cancel hun- He accuses Civil Aviation Authority of day morning. Flights resume to normal Reykjavík. Flights are disrupted in Iceland. dreds of flights. incompetence. later that day. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 James Ashworth is our resident volcanologist, and he also writes Car provided for our trip to the volcano eruption was some great copy! Here's to James, and science! provide by Cheap Jeep. You can book cars at www. 22 cheapjeep.is or call +354-5626555.

Volcanology? That’s from Star Trek, right? By James Ashworth | Photo by Anna Andersen

Sigh. If I had a penny for every time crust was pulled (subducted) down into someone has made that joke when I the Earth along others. In some areas tell them I study ‘volcanology’ (or worst two plates simply slid past each other. still, ‘vulcanology’) then Iceland would These three types of ‘plate boundary’ not be in debt right now. And neither explained many types of geophysical would I. So allow me a few minutes, if and geological activity including earth- you will, to persuade you that yes, vol- quakes of different kinds, mountain for- canology is a real science and no, it’s mation and of course volcanology. nothing to do with pointy-eared sci- As the science grew, more detailed ence fiction characters! explanations began to arise as to why certain volcanoes developed at certain Who started studying these places. Explosive volcanoes were often things? constrained to areas where subduction The beginnings of volcanology as a was taking place, whereas volcanoes science can perhaps be traced back producing more fluid lavas and spec- thousands of years. Back in 79 AD, tacular fire fountains were often found Pliny the Elder recorded the series of on or near boundaries where new plate events leading up to the huge erup- was being constructed. However, there tion of Italy’s Mt. Vesuvius, which of was still one great riddle—why were course famously decimated the Roman some volcanoes right in the middle of town of Pompeii. His nephew, Pliny the plates? Younger, took over after his uncle died from gas inhalation. Their letters are Is it hot (spot) in here, or…? considered so important to the field of An explanation for these isolated volca- volcanology as a whole that they have noes was proposed in 1963 but it was a major type of eruption named after not until some years later, following them—so-called Plinian events. the general acceptance of Plate Tec- supplements the activity already going But we really know a lot and I feel privileged to be able to work In the following centuries little tonic theory, that more detail was put in on along the ocean ridge. now, right? within that field. From next year I hope advance was made due largely to re- place. The general idea was that there Well, we certainly know a lot more than to be working on Sakurajima volcano in ligious beliefs, but some important was a ‘hot spot’ on the Earth’s surface, But why do these hot spots we did 50 years ago. However, we just southern Japan, where some stunning observations were made such as the for whatever reason, which was causing exist? keep figuring out new things. Stuff that science is being done—they have even first recording of a pyroclastic flow (a melting where there shouldn’t be any Truthfully, we don’t really know. There was practically taken as being scientific developed a system that can predict fast-moving flow of hot gases, ash and and therefore triggering volcanism. In are many theories, one of which is fact some decades ago is now proven regular eruptions with a good degree of rock most commonly generated by ex- fact, coupled with plate tectonics, it ap- generally far more convincing than the to be wrong. For example, when Mt. accuracy. This is something we would plosive eruptions or collapse of certain peared that the hot spot was not fixed rest. The generally accepted proposal St. Helens blew up so spectacularly in never have dreamed about some years features). However, it would not be until to the plates—rather, their origin was is for ‘mantle plumes’—rising columns May 1980, collapsing and blowing out a ago! perhaps the mid-20th century when the somewhat deeper. As the plates moved of hot material within the Earth’s whole side of the mountain, we thought The science of volcanology is an science of volcanology would really be- on the surface, the hot spot remaining mantle (the layer beneath the crust). that was an isolated incident. But the imperfect one. Volcanoes can never gin to take off. in one location, creating a chain of vol- But there is still a lot of argument as more we look at other volcanoes world- be perfectly predicted or fully under- canoes on the overlying plate. Perhaps to why exactly they are there and even wide, the more we see that this is actu- stood, but we can try. And try we must, The beginning of the most famous example of this is the where they originate. Some believe ally a relatively common event. because with a growing global popu- the beginning Hawaiian Islands, lying right in the mid- they begin near to the Earth’s core Far from being of interest to just the lation, more and more people will be The first major building block came in dle of the Pacific Ocean—far from any while others believe they are much scientific community, such advance- exposed to the hazards associated with the form of Plate Tectonic theory, which plate boundary—but there are many shallower. Further work is needed to ments in the science can actually bring volcanoes. Now, more than ever, volca- gathered large-scale acceptance with- others worldwide. answer these questions and that work huge benefits to the general public, nology is truly at the forefront of pro- in the scientific community during the In fact, this hot spot theory can be will itself surely raise more questions too. As we learn to better understand tecting the public in many countries— 1960s. This divided the Earth’s crust used to explain much of the volcanism than it answers—the ongoing cycle of volcanoes we also learn to better pre- something many Icelanders will be all into many large ‘plates’ that drifted in Iceland, too. Here the hot spot lies scientific research continuing as ever! pare for eruptions and to guess at what too familiar with. about on the surface, presumably driv- almost directly beneath a constructive they may do in the future. Indeed the en by forces within the Earth. New crust plate boundary, so rather than creating science of volcano forecasting and was created along some edges and old an isolated area of volcanism it instead prediction is a rapidly advancing one

Killer Volcanoes: A Comparative History By Valur Gunnarsson | Photo by Anna Andersen

canic eruption for 1300 years, with the the island of Krakatoa exploded, creat- land. It led to famine as far away as result that 1816 became known as the ing the loudest noise in modern history Japan and about a sixth of Egypt's pop- “Year Without Summer”. Temperatures (sorry to all you Manowar fans). ulation died. The total death toll is esti- went down and harvests failed in the The blast was heard all the way to mated to be around six million, making biggest famine of the century. The Irish Australia, and the event caused tem- it the deadliest eruption on record. The suffered greatly as usual during disas- peratures to drop all over the world, not greatest historical consequences, how- ters, and even the peaceful Swiss ex- recovering fully until five years later. At ever, were to be found in France. The perienced riots on an unheard of scale. least 40.000 people are said to have poor harvests in the years after 1784 It is estimated that 200.000 people died died as a result, although some esti- led to increasing discontent and may as a result in Europe alone. In North mates put the figure at three times as have been a significant contribution to America, people fled their initial settle- high. the Great Revolution of 1789 breaking ments close to the coast and moved out. inland. Volcanoes and revolutions Even this might not be Iceland's If an Indonesian volcano created a most historic eruption, however, for Volcanoes and bicycles postscript to the Napoleonic Wars, an some scholars believe that the Hekla The eruption has several other unfore- Icelandic one may well have been its eruption of ca. 1000 BC and the resul- seen consequences. Since there was preface. In 1783-84, Lakagígar (Laki), tant fallout contributed to the general no hay to feed the horses, a German close to the village of Kirkjubær, erupt- decline in Bronze Age cultures of the by the name of Karl Drais invented ed for a whole eight months. The result time, not least in Ancient Egypt. Add the precursor to the modern bicycle. has gone down in Icelandic history as to this the spot of bother airlines have Which country starting with the letter ‘I’ continents suffered through natural The Americans were equally inven- the ‘Mist Hardships’, due to the sun be- been having for the past two years, has caused the most international havoc disasters which very much resembled tive, and one of the volcanic refugees ing blocked from the sky. Half of all live- and it really seems that Iceland might due to volcanic eruptions in the modern a nuclear winter. This was not due to from Vermont, Joseph Smith, came up stock and a quarter of the population be the most dangerous earthquake age? As you may have surmised, this is a revenge-bent Bonaparte smuggling with Mormonism during his trip west. died. The Danes even thought about island. Then again, others think that indeed a trick question, for the answer some sort of steam driven dirty bomb Equally spectacularly, in Switzerland, a moving the remaining population to the Lake Toba eruption in Indonesia is not Iceland, but Indonesia. In 1816, out of St. Helen, but rather because of girl named Mary Shelley was forced to Jutland, out of harm’s way, and on some about 70.000 years ago left only around when Europe and North America were a volcanic eruption on the other side of stay indoors with some of her friends days you kind of wish they had. But they 10.000 human beings alive. Not even just starting to recover from the Napo- the world. and wrote Frankenstein, the first mod- didn't, which is why we are still here to our President, quite given to doomsday leonic Wars (the US and Canada, not to The year before, Mount Tambora ern horror novel. worry about volcanoes. predictions, would prophesise an Ice- be outdone by the Europeans, had also went off on the island of Sumbawa in However, the volcanoes of Indone- The repercussions of the ‘Mist landic volcano doing this. taken part and fought each other), both what is now Indonesia, the biggest vol- sia had not had their last say. In 1883, Hardships’ reached far outside of Ice- The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 Icelandic Travel Market - www.itm.is 23

Music | Bob Cluness Gig Long, Party Hard! PLAN YOUR (But not too late, I have to get up early) ADVENTURE WITH US

Another day, another slice of grim forbid if you live outside 101, because are ‘used’ to the late openings and Glacier Walks apocalyptic action that is life in Iceland. public transport closes at 23:00, mean- won’t turn up early. Blue Lagoon While Grímsvötn’s eruption took a firm ing you either get a taxi or have a friend Forgive me if I’m wrong, but that grip of the country by the balls and the drive you home. So frankly, you start to just feels that we’re just pandering to Super Jeeps Accommodation airport was closed, one casualty of this see gig going as something that’s not a minority who think it’s cool to be still was the cancellation of the long await- really worth the bother. sucking away on a beer on a Tuesday at ed Caribou gig at NASA on Sunday May Bemoaning this state of affairs to 01:15. If a band like Agent Fresco, Retro Car Rentals 22. Ticketholders were generally devas- my friend Gylfi, he had an interesting Stefson or FM Belfast played at NASA Golden Circle tated upon learning about the cancella- explanation for it all. The thing was, he at 22:00, are you saying nobody will Bus Tours tion, as it was a highly anticipated show. explained, that many moons ago when turn up? Of course not, the place will and more ... So why was it that I then felt a sense Gaukur á stöng (now Bakkus/Sódóma) be full to the rafters. of relief when I found out it was can- was the main live venue in town, it had But I really think venue organis- Whale Watching celled? to have a restaurant license for it to be ers and bands need to start banding Don’t get me wrong. I like Caribou’s open till 01:00. This meant that it was together on changing this mindset. music and was hyped on the idea of supposed to ‘serve meals’ til 22:00, Because right now we’re effectively seeing them play. But that was un- whereupon it would then start showing are almost creating a form of cultural til I realised the show was supposed live music till closing time at one. This, apartheid, where live music is but the to start at 22:00. “Oh great [resigned he reasoned, was why gigs now start so sole reserve of a chosen few who deign groan] another fucking late gig”. late during the week. to live in 101 Reykjavík and don’t have You see, ‘school night’ concerts in But are bands and musicians must stuff to do with their lives, while the Reykjavík have become a drag because be happy playing into the wee small unfortunate sods who live out there in of the ludicrous times they start. In hours? Apparently not, it seems. Just the real world, either make do with the most cities in the civilised world, a con- about every musician I’ve talked to scraps or pay through the nose for the FREE cert during the week will usually start about this, especially those who’ve same experience. And for a city that BOOKING SERVICE between 19:00 and 20:00 and you’d be played outside of Iceland, hates having supposedly prides and ‘inspires’ itself out and eating your kebab by eleven. to play so late. Not surprisingly, many on the quality of their live music, that’s But Reykjavík has to be different. With musicians also have day jobs and fami- totally nonsensical. a 22:00 start and the usual delays a gig lies too. Now excuse me, I have an early start will easily run until the venue closes at So, if bands hate playing so late, just tomorrow... 1am. For most regular people that have start earlier you say. And herein lies the to do boring things (you know, like get crux of the problem. They can’t, they BOOK YOUR TOUR HERE Bankastræti up for work, or take care of their kids) say. If you start at 20:00, people won’t bob cluness this is a major ball ache. And heaven turn up until later. It seems that people russel james smith S k ó la v ö r ð u s t íg u r L a u g a v e g u r Spör ehf.

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SELFOSS / Accordions by Davið Þór Jónsson / Banjo by Högni Egilsson / String arrangements by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / BE WITH ME NOW / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / String arrangements by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / DEEP INSIDE / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Högni Egilsson / Accordion by Davíð Þór Jónsson / OVER / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / ARABIAN HORSE / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / Backing vocals by Stephan Stephensen and Birgir Þórarinsson. WITHIN YOU / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Högni Egilsson / Accordion by Davíð Þór Jónsson / String arrangements by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / MAGNIFIED LOVE / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst / CHANGES COME / Vocals by Birgir Þórarinsson / WHEN YOU’RE LOVERS GONE / Vocals by Högni Egilsson / Lyrics by Atli Bollason / Accordion by Davíð Þór Jónsson / Snare by Sigtryggur Baldursson / Saw by Eric Alm / Saw recorded by Petter Winnberg / String arrangements by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / Ókey bæ performed by KOMPAKT Jón Leifs / BENCHED / Slide guitar by Davíð Þór Jónsson / Saw by Eric Alm / Saw recorded by Petter Winnberg / All tracks produced, performed and mixed by GusGus / All tracks written by GusGus except / Within You / GusGus, Högni Egilsson and Atli Bollason / Deep Inside / Gusgus and Högni 125.5MM Egilsson / When You’re Lover Is Gone / GusGus, Högni Egilsson and Atli Bollason / Over / GusGus and (4.94”) ARABIAN HORSE Hákonardóttir aka Earth / Be With Me Now / Gusgus and Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / GusGus are / Birgir Þórarinsson, Daníel Ágúst Haraldsson and Stephan Stephensen aka President Bongo / Artwork by Paul Mcmenamin / Photography by Wojtek Kwiatkowski / Band Photography by Ari Magg / Assistant Auður sæta / Recorded at Veiran Studios & Bongomachine / Thanks / Davíð Þór Jónsson & Colgate, Högni Egilsson, Urður Hákonardóttir, Linda Loeskow, Jenný & Jón, Paul Mcmenamin, Sigrún Daníelsdóttir, Silja Sóley, Rökkvi & Pétur, Cathy Lapka, Daníela, Una & Lilja, Addi 800, Samúel Jón Samúelsson, Guðmundur Óskar Guðmundsson, Roland String Quartet, Helgi Svavar Helgason, Sigtryggur The Reykjavík Grapevine Baldursson, Jimi Tenor & Nicole Willis, Eric Alm, Petter Winnberg, Nisse, Gabríel Patay, Fjölnir Tattú, Issue 7 — 2011 Turn to page two right now and learn about our Sunneva & The Sirkus Crew Faroe Islands, Sigga & Jóel Briem, Gabríela Friðriksdóttir, Lárus Páll & AUSTURSTRÆTI crazy free GusGus album sampler medley! BOSTON BAR HVERFISGATA Jóní Jóns, Hjalti Egilsson, Margeir & Jón Atli, Michael Mayer & Kompakt, Sebastian Bohnenberger & LAUGAVEGUR 28B 24 BANKASTRÆTI Greatstuff, Heimir Sverrisson, Aron Arnarsson, Jón Skuggi, Agnar Hermannsson, Erla Indriðadóttir LÆKJARGATA TEL: 517 7816 HVERFISGATA & Einar Benjamínsson, Páll Borg and special summerhouse greetings go to: Magnús Stephensen & LAUGAVEGUR (the main street) Music | Reviews OPENING HOURS: SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR Bergljót Þorsteinsdóttir, Daníel Þórarinsson & Ingibjörg Nordahl. Contact details: [email protected] INGÓLFSSTÆTI MONDAY-THURSDAY 16-01

C M FRIDAY-SATURDAY 16-03 KLAPPARSTÍGUR C M Y B SUNDAY 19-01 Y B FOLD 28 BE WITH ME / I’m lying in my bed / And it feels / Just like a prison cell / I’m trying to get sleepBOSTON now / With my head / Stuck in a vacuum shellDJʼS / AND/ORAnd I want LIVE youMUSIC to be here / From the bottom / Of a wishing VATNSSTÍGUR GUS well / Be with me now / I’m turning inFROM my bed THURSDAY / And myTO SATURDAY mind twists / Like a whirlwind hell / I’m rolling in my bed / Wrapped up / In your bindingSMALL spell KITCHEN: / Be with me now / WITHIN YOU / You train down to the 251MM gutter / So bad it bites reality / EchoingENJOY sounds A SNACK of yourOR LIGHT lover MEAL / You tied down your breath for a while / May take some time sometime / Find aON dime THE SUNNYand I shiver TERRACE / Who cares where you carryABOVE yourTHE SECOND name HAND / TiedSHOP (9.88”) down by your lover / Break my heart ORand AT leave YOUR youTABLE may / That’s you, that’s you, that’s you / Try on /

You cannot make time go backwards / Or make it run fast forward / It will go on without you / Clear is my mind echoing throughout within you / Lay my heart down easy in your hands / Found our hearts are ARABIAN HORSE made to shiver / So right would you play me again / Shared by one another / The tears in our veins / Make your pause. I’ll deliver / My gold, I’ve sold my gold / Making my heart work harder / So it can beat much faster / It will go on within me / After my time of passing through / Within you / You cannot make time go backwards / Or make it run fast forward / It will go on without you / Clear is my mind echoing throughout within you / MAGNIFIED LOVE / I’m done for I give up / Surrender my physical mood / You make me walk blindly / Right out of my comforthood / You stroke me you strike me / As someone who ARABIAN HORSE is in control / You eat me you feed me / You nourish my hungry soul / Hungry soul / My magnified love / Magnified / You push me you shove me / You move me every night / You make me go lightly / You move every cell in my body / In my body / You own me! Physically!BOSTON / Possessing me spiritually / My magnified love / Magnified love / DEEP INSIDE / When you opened BARmy heart - SUNNY I was tTERRACE hrown / Deep into the Milky Way / The adrenaline rush that I got from the crush / Blew me away / Opened doors. Opened wide. Deep inside / You rose in a certain way / I could feel how you grew and I knew / You would steal my heart away / Deep inside, deep inside / Why did you crash steal my heart and go / Deep inside, deep and tight / My 125.5MM teeth are sore on your front door / I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry / Deep inside the Milky Way / Now I’m (4.94”) pushed and / I’m pulled I feel flushed / I’m completely out of place / And the blood that was boiling with lust / Now is frozen in my veins / I am stuck in a rut with the thought when my life / Was swept away / How cathartic when my heart explodedLake / Inside the Milkyfishing Way / Deep inside, in deep Icelandinside / Why did you 137MM 136.5MM 138MM (5.39”) (5.37”) (5.43”) 9MM (.35”) 10.5MM (.41”)

C M

PANEL 4 TRAY 4 PANEL INSIDE 2 PANEL crash steal my heart and go / Deep inside, deep and tight / My teeth are sore on your INSIDE frontY3 B PANEL door / I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry / Deep inside the Milky Way / OVER / We’ve made our mistakes over / We’ve SELFOSS / Accordions by Davið Þór Jónsson / Banjo by Högni Egilsson / String arrangements by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / BE WITH ME NOW / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / String arrangements gone up and down / Over and over / Once again I have crossed / Double-crossed over / I betrayed our by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / DEEP INSIDE / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Högni Egilsson / Accordion by Davíð Þór Jónsson / OVER / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / ARABIAN HORSE / Vocals by trust / Knocked it all over / Over. Over / And I wonder why / Why we didn’t try, this time / Didn’t even try Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / Backing vocals by Stephan Stephensen and Birgir Þórarinsson. WITHIN YOU / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst & Högni Egilsson / Accordion by Davíð Þór Jónsson / String arrangements by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String / Try to make things right, over / As you wonder why / Why we didn’t try / We didn’t try this time / We Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / MAGNIFIED LOVE / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst / CHANGES COME / Vocals by Birgir Þórarinsson / WHEN YOU’RE LOVERS GONE / Vocals by Högni Egilsson / Lyrics by Atli Bollason / Accordion by Davíð Þór Jónsson / Snare by Sigtryggur Baldursson / Saw didn’t even try / Try to make things right this time / With the wind this will blow / It will blow over / Is the by Eric Alm / Saw recorded by Petter Winnberg / String arrangements by Samúel Jón Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Addi 800 / Ókey bæ performed by time, time to mend / Over? /KOMPAKT Maybe we can delve / Deep into ourselves, over / Find the smallest flame Jón Leifs / BENCHED / Slide guitar by Davíð Þór Jónsson / Saw by Eric Alm / Saw recorded by Petter Winnberg / All tracks produced, performed and mixed by GusGus / All tracks written by GusGus except / Within You / GusGus, Högni Egilsson and Atli Bollason / Deep Inside / Gusgus and Högni 125.5MM / Re-install the game / Over / ARABIAN HORSE / Disappear into the dust / Lost on your horse / Blown Egilsson / When You’re Lover Is Gone / GusGus, Högni Egilsson and Atli Bollason / Over / GusGus and (4.94”) ARABIAN HORSE Hákonardóttir aka Earth / Be With Me Now / Gusgus and Urður Hákonardóttir aka Earth / GusGus are / Birgir Þórarinsson, Daníel Ágúst Haraldsson and Stephan Stephensen aka President Bongo / away by your gust / Lost on your horse / Desert land under the sun / Lost on your horse / Like a grain of Artwork by Paul Mcmenamin / Photography by Wojtek Kwiatkowski / Band Photography by Ari Magg / Assistant Auður sæta / Recorded at Veiran Studios & Bongomachine / Thanks / Davíð Þór Jónsson & Colgate, Högni Egilsson, Urður Hákonardóttir, Linda Loeskow, Jenný & Jón, Paul Mcmenamin, Sigrún sand / Lost in your storm / On the crossroads take a left / Lost on your horse / Too bright to even see the Daníelsdóttir, Silja Sóley, Rökkvi & Pétur, Cathy Lapka, Daníela, Una & Lilja, Addi 800, Samúel Jón SAFETY TRIM BLEED Samúelsson, Guðmundur Óskar Guðmundsson, Roland String Quartet, Helgi Svavar Helgason, Sigtryggur Baldursson, Jimi Tenor & Nicole Willis, Eric Alm, Petter Winnberg, Nisse, Gabríel Patay, Fjölnir Tattú, sun / More and more sand in my eyes / Riding on. Getting lost / Lost on your horse / Disappear into the Sunneva & The Sirkus Crew Faroe Islands, Sigga & Jóel Briem, Gabríela Friðriksdóttir, Lárus Páll & Jóní Jóns, Hjalti Egilsson, Margeir & Jón Atli, Michael Mayer & Kompakt, Sebastian Bohnenberger & Greatstuff, Heimir1.SELFOSS Sverrisson, Aron Arnarsson, 2.Jón Skuggi,BE Agnar WITH Hermannsson, MEErla Indriðadóttir 3.DEEP INSIDE 4.OVER 5.WITHIN YOU dust / Lost on your horse / Racing on the desert dunes / I chase you like a moon / But on the crossroads & Einar Benjamínsson, Páll Borg and special summerhouse greetings go to: Magnús Stephensen & Bergljót Þorsteinsdóttir, Daníel Þórarinsson & Ingibjörg Nordahl. Contact details: [email protected]

C M 6. 7. C M 8. take a left / Lost on yourY B horse / CHANGES COME / Maybe I just want to be alone / Tired of searching ARABIAN HORSE tionMAGNIFIED YtoB detailFOLD in the LOVE production CHANGES and their Affair,COME Jamie Woon. BE WITH ME / I’m lying in my bed / And it feels / Just like a prison cell / I’m trying to get sleep now / With my head / Stuck in a vacuum shell / And I want you to be here / From the bottom / Of a wishing GUS well / Be with me now / I’m turning in my bed / And my mind twists / Like a whirlwind hell / I’m rolling for the way back home / Stuckin my bed / Wrapped in upthe / In your state binding spell / ofBe with no me now state / WITHIN YOU at / You trainthe down deep to the end of sorrow / Changes come, but I 9.WHENshamelessly YOUR indulgentLOVERS nostalgia GONE for10. theBENCHED ‘Magnified Love’ is the album’s gutter / So bad it bites reality / Echoing sounds of your lover / You tied down your breath for a while / 251MM May take some time sometime / Find a dime and I shiver / Who cares where you carry your name / Tied (9.88”) down by your lover / Break my heart and leave you may / That’s you, that’s you, that’s you / Try on / can’t follow / Stay, Stay, Stay,You cannot makeStay time go backwardsaway / Or /Touched make it run fast forward /by It will goevil, on without nothing you / Clear is more to say / It’s so easy to turn you KOMPAKT SCHALLPLATTEN WERDERSTRASSE 15-19 D-50672 KOLN, FON+49/221-94995-0 FAX-150 WWW.KOMPAKT.FM MADE IN EUROPE GEMA my mind echoing throughout within you / Lay my heart down easy in your hands / Found our hearts are ARABIAN HORSE early ‘90s pop music that (presumably) dance hit—sleek, dirty and tight—with made to shiver / So right would you play me again / Shared by one another / The tears in our veins / Make your pause. I’ll deliver / My gold, I’ve sold my gold / Making my heart work harder / So it can beat on. / But just as quickly, thenmuch faster /you’re It will go on within gone me / After my / time Stuck of passing through in / Withinthis you / Youstate cannot make of no fate with sight fixed on tomorrow time go backwards / Or make it run fast forward / It will go on without you / Clear is my mind echoing shaped them. bitching synth maracas and Daníel's throughout within you / MAGNIFIED LOVE / I’m done for I give up / Surrender my physical mood / You make me walk blindly / Right out of my comforthood / You stroke me you strike me / As someone who ARABIAN HORSE / Changes come, and you isdo in control follow / You eat me you/ feedStay, me / You nourish Stay, my hungry Stay, soul / Hungry Stay soul / My magnified away love / / Touched by evil, nothing more to say Magnified / You push me you shove me / You move me every night / You make me go lightly / You move every cell in my body / In my body / You own me! Physically! / Possessing me spiritually / My magnified Access to 35 lakes Whatever happened between ‘24/7’ voice veering into Bono territory (in ca- love / Magnified love / DEEP INSIDE / When you opened my heart I was t hrown / Deep into the Milky Way / The adrenaline rush that I got from the crush / Blew me away / Opened doors. Opened wide. Deep inside / You rose in a certain way / I could feel how you grew and I knew / You would steal my heart away / Deep inside, deep inside / Why did you crash steal my heart and go / Deep inside, deep and tight / My and 125.5MM ‘Arabian Horse’, GusGus have let dence more than timbre). teeth are sore on your front door / I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry / Deep inside the Milky Way / Now I’m (4.94”) pushed and / I’m pulled I feel flushed / I’m completely out of place / And the blood that was boiling with lust / Now is frozen in my veins / I am stuck in a rut with the thought when my life / Was swept away / How cathartic when my heart exploded / Inside the Milky Way / Deep inside, deep inside / Why did you for only ISK 6.000 crash steal my heart and go / Deep inside, deep and tight / My teeth are sore on your front door / I’m the light in. There is still an element of The album concludes with strange- dry, I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry / Deep inside thePANEL Milky Way / OVER / We’ve5 madeINSIDE our mistakes over / We’ve PANEL 6 BACK COVER PANEL 1 FRONT COVER gone up and down / Over and over / Once again I have crossed / Double-crossed over / I betrayed our C M trust / Knocked it all over / Over. Over / And I wonder why / Why we didn’t try, this time / Didn’t even try / Try to make things right, over / As you wonder why / Why we didn’t try / We didn’t try this time / We didn’t even try / Try to make things right this time / With the wind this will blow / It will blow over / Is the arctic winds and duskyY B clubs but they ly tropical-sounding musical saw in time, time to mend / Over? / Maybe we 00000can delve / Deep into ourselves, over / Find the smallest flame SPINE 6MM (.24”) SPINE 7.5MM (.3”) / Re-install the game / Over / ARABIAN HORSE / Disappear into the dust / Lost on your horse / Blown away by your gust / Lost on your horse / Desert land under the sun / Lost on your horse / Like a grain of

138.5MM SAFETY TRIM BLEED 139.5MM 139.5MM sand / Lost in your storm / On the crossroads take a left / Lost on your horse / Too bright to even see the have let in a ray of a sound bright, hon- ‘Benched’. The flourishes of accordions sun / More and more sand in my eyes / Riding on. Getting lost / Lost on your horse / Disappear into the dust / Lost on your horse / Racing on the desert dunes / I chase you like a moon / But on the crossroads 1.SELFOSS 2.BE WITH ME 3.DEEP INSIDE 4.OVER 5.WITHIN YOU take a left / Lost on your horse / CHANGES COME / Maybe I just want to be alone / Tired of searching 6.ARABIAN HORSE 7. MAGNIFIED LOVE 8.CHANGES COME for the way back home / Stuck in the state of no state(5.45”) at the deep end of sorrow / Changes come, but I (5.49”) (5.49”) 9.WHEN YOUR LOVERS GONE 10.BENCHED can’t follow / Stay, Stay, Stay, Stay away /Touched by evil, nothing more to say / It’s so easy to turn you KOMPAKT SCHALLPLATTEN WERDERSTRASSE431MM 15-19 D-50672 KOLN, FON+49/221-94995-0 FAX-150 WWW.KOMPAKT.FM MADE IN EUROPE GEMA est and soulful. If ‘24/7’ was bitter, ‘Ara- and saws, as short and non-essential as on. / But just as quickly, then you’re gone / Stuck in this state of no fate with sight fixed on tomorrow / Changes come, and you do follow / Stay, Stay, Stay, Stay away / Touched by evil, nothing more to say

PANEL 5 INSIDE (16.97”) PANEL 6 BACK COVER FOLD FOLD bian Horse’ is bittersweet. they seem really add a new dimension FOLD FOLD C M PANEL 1 FRONT COVER More information at: Y B SPINE 6MM (.24”) SPINE 7.5MM (.3”) 138.5MM 139.5MM 139.5MM (5.45”) 431MM (5.49”) (5.49”)

(16.97”) FOLD FOLD FOLD FOLD ‘Selfoss’ opens the album, a trippy to GusGus's sound and serve to draw CD 6 PANEL 1 TRAY SEL#: DATE: L/S: TECH: CYAN MAGENTA TOTAL LABEL: FILE NAME: YELLOW BLACK NUMBER GUSGUS DIGIPAK CD 6 PANEL 1 TRAY SEL#: DATE: L/S:OF COLORS TECH: CYAN MAGENTA ARTIST: www.veidikortid.isJOB #: PMS PMS TOTAL ambient song stroked to a noisy finish out the individuality of the songs that TITLE: TEMPLATE: UMG_CD_6P_DIG_1TRAY_JUL00.indt LABEL: SEPARATOR: UMGI_CD_6P_DIG_1TRAY_JUL00.indtFILE NAME: YELLOW BLACK NUMBER and topped off with a Balkan swing. I otherwise would risk getting lost in the DIGIPAK ARTIST: JOB #: PMSARABIAN PMS HORSEOF COLORS can confirm that ‘Selfoss’ went down synth loop that pounds like a leitmotif TITLE: TEMPLATE: UMG_CD_6P_DIG_1TRAY_JUL00.indt great with a foreign audience tripping through the whole record. More of this UMGI_CD_6P_DIG_1TRAY_JUL00.indt gusgus SEPARATOR: their minds off on magic mushrooms please! A perfect anthemic electronic pop (which is the first and last time you will Old fans will have a short "huh" mo- record. hear me use 'Selfoss' and psychedel- ment before being pulled into familiar ics in the same sentence as the real- territory. The new sound could poten- The year 2010 was one of transition, life Selfoss should be avoided like the tially pull in a lot of new listeners, the with too many bands shuffling around plague when you're on anything stron- timing couldn't be better as far as I indecisively. ger than paracetamol). can hear with a lot of listeners looking This year seems it will be more of the ‘Deep Inside’ continues the ambient to bands mining that Euro-synth-pop same, with the off-the-mainstream balkandelia, working in familiar GusGus sound. And it's weird how endearing music still finding its footing while the territory but building towards some- those kitschy electro-pop songs have dreamlike, stripped-down, sliced-up, thing new and operatic. Högni Egilsson turned out to be. ‘100% Pure Love’ by '85-'93 inflected sound pulses and from the Hjaltalín is paired up for the Crystal Waters would have made me drones in the hands of Animal Collec- first time with original member Daníel cringe back in '95 but now I would tive's dilated pupils. Ágúst, Högni’s voice is low and hoarse, dance to it in a heartbeat. Maybe all Last year GusGus seemed equally fairly reminiscent of early Sting or even that the Euro-techno needed was to unsure of where to take their sound, Seal. age like blue cheese. which culminated in ‘24/7’ (2010) ‘Over’ starts off a little decadent Good things come to those who which, while not without its charm, with a ‘We R Who We R’ soundalike wait, GusGus have crafted a perfect an- proved too cold and unwelcoming on beat and all three singers on duty but themic electronic pop record—it is both the whole. But this summer, from a just as they're about to go off the edge their most mature record to date and tangle of disembowelled ‘80s cassette into full-on raver nostalgia Daníel Ágúst one that could easily introduce them mixes, ‘Arabian Horse’ rises steely- pulls the reigns with a tight and clever to a larger audience (*cough* America eyed, eclipsing the sun with its flaxen chorus. *cough*). While the Icelandic horse, like mane, dumping mounds of steaming ‘Within You’ is by far the strongest the Icelandic music scene, is known for passion and professionalism. song on an otherwise excellent record, being tough, small, sturdy, resource- During a time for electronic music a melodramatic string section, haunt- ful, practical, hairy and cute, GusGus where half of the bands are faceless, ing vocals from Högni, light but very have chosen the ‘Arabic Horse’ as their nameless or don unpronounceable effective touches in the production and mascot—sleek, proportional, grace- names, there's something refreshingly a falsetto refrain somewhere between ful, beautiful, refined and treading the barefaced about GusGus. They wear a ‘Walking On A Dream’ and the ‘Nev- sands of time like it ain’t no thing. decade of experience on their sleeves, erending Story’ theme. Echoes of Un- - ragnar egilsson which shows both in the extreme atten- finished Sympathy, Hercules and Love

Icelandic record label Bedroom Com- distinguish from each other. It created munity has taken UK artist Puzzle an awfully pleasant atmosphere for Muteson under its wing and released my drinking-dulled mind and growling breakfast lunch drinks his debut, 'En Garde'. This young stomach to float around on that Sun- brunch dinner snacks musician has composed ten songs that day, but upon closer examination, the comfort the ears with eerie, trembling album seemed to lack the emotional vocals and soothing guitar picks, depth and complexity I look for in the blended with electronic beats and soft style that characterizes Puzzle's reykjavík´s best kept secret orchestral strings. Puzzle's songs tell sound. the listener stories about nostalgia and Since this is his first album, I am horses, rust and polar bears, heart- certainly willing to give Puzzle another break and birds. try next time around. In fact, after lis- kitchen hours Puzzle Muteson I first listened to 'En Garde' as tening to 'En Garde', I will actively look sun-thu: 11:00-23:30 background music while making out for his next album because I truly fri-sat: 10:00-00:00 En Garde breakfast one lazy Sunday afternoon. I believe he's got something inside him laugavegur 3 Puzzle.Muteson also gave it my full attention one eve- waiting to emerge. He's just got to get www.gata.is ning lying in the comfort of my sheets a little older and dig a little deeper. gata tel: +354 5270077 Has to get a little older and dig a and headphones. Though the album - VANESSA SCHIPANI food & drink little deeper is definitely worth a listen, you might find that the songs are difficult to every day from 17-19 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 Licensing and 26 registration of travel- Comic | Megan Herbert related services

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Music | Reviews

www.geysir.is call: 894 44 55 Dead Reckoning The Vebeth collective take you for a ride to rock’s dark side..

Tryggvi Hübner Two Step Horror: Living Room Music 2.0 The sound is big, cavernous and www.tryggvihubner.com ghosting, recorded in the biggest hall in the world and drips with Ambitious elevator music reverb. It all feels light, mysterious and occasionally very sensual. Tryggvi Hübner is an accomplished guitar player. He’s tactful, tasteful Dead Skeletons: Dead and many other positive adjectives that end in -ful. And he’s skilled as a Magick I & II motherfucker. But here’s the kicker: Not perfect, but a decent his ambitious and dynamic record is soundtrack for tripping nonetheless so harmless and diluted that it goes It’s been a busy time recently over at by without you noticing, making Pósthússtræti 13 the local leather-clad sex ‘n’ death col- Mannakorn sound like the Melvins in lective, commonly known as Vebeth. 101 Reykjavík comparison. Nine instrumental origi- The last month has seen two releases Tel: +354 551 1800 nals and two covers, including Free’s from artists within the collective, both ‘Wishing Well’ do little to put fire under exploring the darker side of rock with www.gamla.is this particular ass. varying results. This is music scored for advertise- First up is ‘Living Room Music’ from ments geared toward pensioners Two Step Horror, who are the duo of looking into retirement plans. There’s Þórður Grímsson and Anna Margrét not much else to say about it unless heap of eastern mysticism and sounds Björnsson. Using ‘50s rock sounds as to the point it literally creaks from the you want to talk about individual per- their music substrate (most evident formances (which all are amazing) by weight of the symbolism. on tracks such as ‘Wray’ and ‘Dusty The first and third section of the his schooled comrades that make up Strands’), they meld more contem- Veislubakkar his band or if we desire to dissect the album is rather enjoyable. ‘Dead pantanir í síma porary sounds such as shoegaze and Mantra’ is a gleeful realisation of The ;NG>G production. But I wont, because you dream pop on top. You can really hear 6;B6IH:ÁA> Crystals performing a sky burial on can already predict how it all goes. this on tracks such as the opener 'Ï=Ì9:<>CJ6AA696<6517 3366 & Music this lush and controlled poses Iggy Pop, while ‘Dead Magick II’ is a ‘Ambeth’ and ‘Song For You’, which beautiful coda of nature sounds with www.sushismidjan.is no challenge for the listener, and at the feels more like The Cocteau Twins booming Tibetan trumpets. However same token it is not very comforting performing the soundtrack to a David either because there’s nothing to grab it sags badly in the middle, with tracks Lynch movie. You can almost imagine such as ‘Dead Magic I’ not making onto. With not a hint of ambiguity and yourself wearing leather gloves while absence of any gusto it fizzles out into the cut, while lines like “Come to my cruising the night streets looking for world of death” (on ‘Psychodead´), are obscurity. something bad to get up to. - birkir fjalar viðarsson mumbled with a real lack of conviction. sushismiðjan If Two Step Horror is all about sex/ Also, at nearly an hour and 15 min- David Lynch, then Dead Skeletons are utes long, it make the likes of Agent all death/Jim Jarmusch. The creation Fresco’s album feel like The Minute- G:HI6JG6CI of Henrik ‘Singapore Sling’ Björnsson men’s ‘Paranoid Time EP’. and Jón Sæmundur (aka artist Nonni - bob cluness K>ÁHBÌ7ÌI6=y;>C6 Dead), their album ‘Dead Magick I & II’ is the latest in the psych rock DE>ÁI>A''/%% continuum that started with the Velvet Underground/13th Floor Elevators, passing through Spacemen 3 / The Black Angels / Brian Jonestown Mas- sacre. They’ve also shovelled on a The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 ‘The Miners’ Hymns’ soundtrack was released on May 23 in Europe, but you’ll have to wait until June 20 to buy the DVD. 27

Music | Interview

The Foreigner’s Prerogative A Conversation with Jóhann Jóhannsson

So who the frak is Jóhann Jóhanns- side projects. Bands, Apparat and oth- ern English coal industry and the cul- ics, synths and guitars and such. I loved er a very sensitive subject. The closing son? He’s an accomplished Icelandic ers, but the focus has definitely been on ture surrounding it. I was most excited the idea of filling this ancient gothic of the mines, and all that. Thatcher is, musician, a self-taught composer with my own solo stuff. A lot of my time has about getting involved with the brass. cathedral with massive guitars. I actu- of course, much despised in the region, seven solo albums and seven movie gone into movie soundtracks lately. There’s a rich brass culture in the Eng- ally made use of some of the archival still… soundtracks under his belt, as well lish industrial North; every town has its reels Bill [Morrison] used for the film, as having been a member of several Anything you’re particularly proud own brass band manned by local coal all those documentaries and newsreels …uh… successful Icelandic bands, including of? miners. It’s a tradition that dates back he found in the British Film Institute …heh. Right. As she is in other plac- HAM, Lhooq, Unun, Evil Madness and I’ve got ‘Miners’ Hymns’ coming out at two-hundred-plus years. The mines and local archives. They’re mostly at- es... but it’s a very emotional, very sore Apparat Organ Quar tet. He has most re- the end of May. It’s an entirely musical were, of course, closed in the 1980s af- mospheric sounds from the mines that I subject there. In fact, any time you cently completed his eighth full-length film, that is to say there’s no dialogue, ter the General Strikes; Thatcher closed spliced into the electronic sounds. address a topic integral to a society solo album, the audio half of a collab- just music. The music was written be- them all… not your own, something you’re not orative work with acclaimed American fore the film, and footage edited to How did the premiere go? What did personally familiar, it is important to indie filmmaker Bill Morrison. We spoke be in time with the score. It was a far …the whole ‘union-buster’ thing… the locals think? approach it with respect, modesty, a to him about the film and found him to more collaborative effort than most …right. This was very traumatising for There were two shows. The church was certain amount of humility. I was very be a calm, erudite and soft-spoken man film soundtracks, where the music is the entire region, causing deep rifts packed for both of them, largely with conscious of that, but the logic behind in his early forties. Read on for specula- written afterwards to compliment the in the society due to unemployment, people who are deeply connected to [Forma & BFI’s] decision when they tions and comments on cathedrals, be- film. It’s great to be involved from the but the brass bands are still there. The the material. It was very… emotional. asked us to do this is perfectly sound: ing foreign and Margaret Thatcher. very beginning like that; it’s very rare piece, ‘Miners’ Hymns’, is a sort of re- People liked it. There were a great that any British artist would be too for that to happen. quiem for that entire culture. Well, of many senior citizens there, people who close to the issue to address with any You don’t live in Iceland anymore, course, the people are still alive… would probably never go to a Jóhann modicum of detachment; he would too right? Yeah, I was going to ask you about Jóhannsson concert. It pleased me quickly become entrenched in his opin- That’s right. I live in Copenhagen. that Bill Morrison project, how it …it’s a requiem for a civilization. greatly to receive praise from these ion. Maybe it’s something only a for- started. So it started with your mu- Yes. It’s a requiem for an industry, for an people. It was very moving, especially in eigner can address. For a while, I take it? sic? entire way of life. It’s also an homage, a light of the responsibility [Bill Morrison I’ve been there… five years now. We were asked to collaborate by Dur- celebration. and I] were shouldering. We’re foreign- ham International Festival, the British ers, both of us… Working in music? Film Institute and (multi-format pro- There was never a question of Yes, uh… duction agency) Forma. They called us utilising anything other than brass, …yes, I was just going to ask you, and asked if we wanted to do some- then? because you’re Icelandic and he’s In what capacity? thing together, something concerned Yes… but the cathedral also has a huge American… I make my own solo albums, film and with archival footage from coal mines, organ that I was very excited to use, and …exactly. It was something we talked sindri eldon theatre soundtracks and all kinds of and anything related with the North- I mixed it with a whole lot of electron- about a lot, coming from abroad to cov- maroesjka lavigne

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Open: Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 Sundays 16:00-22:00 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 28

Art | Venice Biennale A CONVERSATION BETWEEN LIBIA CASTRO, ÓLAFUR ÓLAFSSON, AND ELLEN BLUMENSTEIN

At this very moment, celebrated Span- “All our works involve people and their living ish-Icelandic artist duo Libia Castro and Ólafur Ólafsson are representing Iceland conditions, and they include social matters and at the 54th International Art Exhibition— La Biennale di Venezia 2011. Showing at political awareness.” the Venice Biennale is of course a great honour for every artist; indeed most of EB: I intuit that finding each other as a L+Ó: All our works involve people and Iceland’s finest have participated on the Spanish-Icelandic couple and artist duo their living conditions, and they include nation’s behalf over the last decades. We with different cultural and political back- social matters and political awareness. thought some of you might be interested grounds was not so much the trigger for Why do you say “but”? These subjects in knowing what the pair are getting up the multifacetedness of your work, but are all treated in the discourses of eman- to in Venice, so we got kind permission an effect of this joint interest on a very cipatory philosophies, and as such they from the Icelandic Art Center to print visible level. Would I be right in describ- are all directly interconnected. An art this conversation with the pair that ap- ing this diversity as a major common that tries to reflect on these matters pears in the official Biennale literature. ground, on a deeper level than your ob- needs to develop a vision in dialogue To learn more about the Venice Biennale viously similar interests and aesthetics? with them. and Iceland’s participation in it head on L+Ó: Yes, it’s also an attitude towards EB: I was connecting my remark with a to www.cia.is, otherwise read on and life, and a desire to listen carefully, even “but” because I find it significant for your enjoy. if it doesn’t fit the average format... work that it is fed more by an involved/ EB: I’d argue that this open-endedness committed attitude towards the world Ellen Blumenstein: You come from defines your position towards each oth- that surrounds you than by a specific dance and painting [Libia] versus mul- er, towards the art context and towards political concern. These are obviously timedia [Ólafur]; your influences range the “real” world better and more com- two possible but different approaches from (neo-)concretism to conceptual- prehensively than any attempts to name which I am trying to isolate in order to ism, institutional critique, and relational your influences, interests, and sources clarify yours. I would like to know more aesthetics, to name just a few. could do. about the way in which you establish this Libia Castro: Yes, I finished my bach- L+Ó: True, but on the other hand we dialogue between philosophy and art. elor’s degree in painting and Ólafur his question those influences. Our practice LC: We’re drawn to emancipatory ques- in multimedia. But when we met in the is a result of our living conditions and tions, utopias, movements, philosophies; master’s programme, I started exploring without understanding this it would be it’s the idea of emancipation and the multimedia and Ólafur delved into paint- misread. We have been inspired by the wish to understand (or simply engage ing. Knowledge of painting was impor- avant-gardes of the 20th century, such with) the human condition and its para- tant for both of us in the development as Dada, surrealism, conceptualism, arte doxes, its beliefs, dreams, and desires, of our early environments and for our povera, and the situationist/interven- and the “real” material, economic, so- photography and video work, too. tionist movements. From the Icelandic cial, and historical conditions that shape Ólafur Ólafsson: Yes, we had differing context we feel a direct influence from (our) society and culture and (our) con- artistic backgrounds as a result of our Fluxus, live Art and Dieter Roth. To be flicts. We translate these aspects into studies and obviously different cultural based in the Netherlands was also im- the artistic context we participate in, backgrounds as well. We found it excit- portant. Friends like Jeanne van Heswi- and we want to reflect on them from an ing to learn about and from each other. jk, Bickvanderpol, Lara Almarcegui, Je- experimental perspective. I had good teachers in the multimedia roen Jongeleen, Marc Bijl, Nicoline van EB: Tell me how you decide on the is- department at the Icelandic Art Acad- Harskamp, Rosella Biscotti, Wendelien sues you examine. emy and the conceptual aspect was van Oldenburg, and architects, thinkers, L+Ó: We come to our subjects through strong. The school was poorly equipped and cultural producers such as Emiliano our work, through dealing with ques- in terms of audio-visuals, though, so any Gandolfi, Lucia Babina, and their col- tions that bring up other questions, de- experiments in that direction were low lective Cohabitation Strategies, come sires, or ideas. A Buddhist would say, profile. When Libia and I started work- from different age groups and were part “we are trapped in samsara”. The issues ing together, we wanted to merge the of our scene, which at different times are all interrelated with the work, our physical and the concrete, the concep- shared with us the possibility of socially life, and other people’s lives (and soci- tual and the contextual. This brought us committed or critical forms of art. eties). The internal questions the work to environments where we could experi- EB: I would describe your field of inter- poses also determine how to proceed. ment with these different elements and est in the broadest sense as a political The sites to which we travel and work in approaches. one—but this ranges from gender rela- are also important. Indeed, our projects tions to identity politics or subjectivity, always have an investigative character Words to the civic arena, (immaterial) labour, and for us they only make sense if they Ellen Blumenstein migration, and more. can be placed in relation to life and the The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 29

Taste the freshness of a farmer’s market

A CONVERSATION BETWEEN Housed in one of the city’s oldest buildings, Fish Market uses ingredients sourced directly from the nation’s best farms, lakes, and sea to create unforgettable Icelandic dishes with a modern twist.

LIBIA CASTRO, OPEN FOR LUNCH WEEKDAYS 11:30 - 14:00 ÓLAFUR ÓLAFSSON, OPEN EVERY EVENING 18:00 - 23:30 AND ELLEN BLUMENSTEIN

in-between of art and life. We examine also entered into an open dialogue with engagement with a somewhat discon- questions about our context, our time, its immediate surroundings. To reflect certing and at times dissenting setup. our background, and our possible fu- on the “now”, we wanted to create a lay- LC: The aspect of re-referencing is a ture. These questions are a continual ered situation and sensitise it. The idea nomadic approach; it’s a way to rework redefinition. We work intuitively. The was to set up an open fieldwork to zoom earlier projects in relation to a new site, first research phase can be focused or in on some particular aspects and work and it enables us to link aspects that quite expansive—it depends. We might on them in depth. The environments originally related to a different site with get lost somewhere only to come back were the starting point for an approach the new environment, both formally and with something substantial that caught we then pursued in subsequent works. in terms of content. us. ÓÓ: Juxtaposing those elements you ‘Your country doesn’t exist’, for example, EB: I’d like to get hold of a certain ex- mention is a game of giving a new sig- is a work that originated in the labora- pansiveness I sense in your work, to nificance to familiar signs. On the one tory of the environments and has since trace the source of your strategy of de- hand we reveal their constructedness developed its own trajectory. The envi- liberately juxtaposing topics, influences, according to a set of rules and values, ronments were our studio, which moved and materialities, and of re-referencing and on the other create a space for from place to place; there are other previous works of yours. I am especially transforming them into another rela- works that came from this context. We thinking of your early environments, tional order. This took us to Brecht’s were interested in working in and out of like your project at Platform Garanti in ‘Verfremdung’, and to the tremendous a space under its given conditions, and Istanbul, ‘20 minus Minutes’ (2003). changes Duchamp brought about by in generating concrete links between One project, ‘Your country doesn’t exist’ inventing the ready-made and opening different spaces. ‘Your country...’ was (2003, ongoing), for example, came out up new levels of perception. intended to travel, to examine differ- of this exhibition—and you have decided In ‘20 minus Minutes’ and the other envi- ent territories, and pass through dif- to develop a new form of it for Venice ronments the viewer is immersed in this ferent languages. While always staying now. initially disorienting space which prick- the same, the work changes each time LC: Our early environments were sen- les the senses and simultaneously ad- through its manifestation on site; it’s like sual, informal, sculptural, and concep- dresses the concrete and the symbolic a mirror. tual models for exhibitions as situations. space. Many elements are “estranged” We questioned the context, expected through their new role or relation to the forms, and frame of the given space, but space or to each other and ask for an Continues over

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HAFNARSTRÆTI

AUSTURSTRÆTI

AÐALSTRÆTI

LÆKJARGATA

KIRKJUSTRÆTI PÓSTHÚSSTRÆTI

AÐALSTRÆTI 12 | +354 578 8877 | FISHMARKET.IS LUNCH WEEKDAYS 11:30 - 14:00 | EVENINGS 18:00 - 23:30 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 The Venice Biennale, huh? That sounds pretty prestigious. Is it 'the SXSW of visual art'? 30

EB: Are there any threads running on the other, is an issue you renegotiate see. Dare to feel. Dare to touch. Dare to through your work, or patterns that re- constantly. One ongoing relationship, for get surprised. Dare to be critical. Dare appear in different projects? example, is to the composer Karólína to disagree. Dare to look beyond. Dare LC: You could say that there are two Eiríksdóttir. She composed the music for to go too far. Dare to not get anywhere. main paths which feed into and ques- ‘Caregivers’ and ‘The Constitution of the Dare to experience”. tion each other. One is an interventionist Republic of Iceland’ (2008/2011)—which EB: There is the project ‘Uterus Flags’, in approach, appropriating and reinventing you will also present in Venice—and she which you hung chains of those typical given structures. The other observes, is also composing the music for the new festive chains of flags across whole sec- maps, and portrays reality. version of ‘Your country doesn’t exist’. tions of different cities and thus inserted L+Ó: Our slide carrousels, which were This relationship is special, for sure, a carnivalesque moment into everyday always developed as part of our environ- but you have also collaborated with a street life. ments, map places and portray people choir, with activists, asylum seekers, il- LC: Like ‘Your country doesn’t exist’, in their lived-in surroundings. Since the legal immigrants, caregivers, lobbyists, the ‘Uterus Flags’ intervene into public environments themselves were always a ministers—the list is long. Could you go space. They appropriate the well-known By the synthesis of us encountering the place, into more detail about the role these festive ritual of decorating the streets the slide shows introduced a distance different individuals play in your work with triangular flags on a chain, as Dan- into their immediacy and concreteness. processes and how far they shape the iel Buren has done. Formally, they play They enabled us to ask questions about final work? with repetition, because the abstracted a particular reality and how it could be ÓÓ: People are our inspiration and our figure of the female sexual organs is a sea and represented, and they paved the way for muses. Our friend Herman Kerkhof, triangle too. They go back to a basic the later video works. All our videos are for example, is a Dutch jeweller (fifth form, to a strong signifier. When re- a delicios portraits, documents of performances or generation), clock restorer, gardener, searching for the project, we investigat- actions/interventions. The portraits are cyclist, passionate provocateur, lover ed medieval heraldry and found out that either of people working or giving tes- of people, and the instigator of chance it has almost no female symbols. The timony about their situations and living meetings—the more absurd the bet- ‘Uterus Flags’ have something primitive conditions. The documents of interven- ter. He performed in a few of our early and timeless about them, something tion-performances record us or others works and for a while he was probably Dionysian, as fertility rituals have. But performing a public action. the person who had seen most of our while Dionysus is a male energy/god, EB: Let me come back to your interest works in various places in the Nether- this is female (sexual) energy brought lobster in the concept of “estrangement” which lands and in Spain, Iceland, Istanbul, to the street. The flags are a celebration as we know was developed by Bertolt and Belgium—apart from us. At first we of the female through an abstract repre- At the Restaurant Fjöruborðið in Stokkseyri Brecht. His approach to theatre was didn’t collaborate much with other art- sentation of the sexual organs. The ones always closely con- we have done up nected to participa- to now are gentle tion and the trans- “We work first and foremost in dialogue with the because of their mission of a clear art context, but our practice is very often enriched colours, but they message—which are also orgiastic you would probably by ideas from other fields. Working with political and sometimes 2EYKJAVqK define differently for even disturbing your practice. Curi- activist groups is a way of deepening our knowledge to passers-by. I 3TOKKSEYRI %YRABAKKI ously, his term ‘Leh- find it funny and rstück’ is translated of social and political issues, and of bringing some of sensual to see > Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík to English as “learn- their experience into our work.” them flapping ing play”. The literal in the wind. We Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 translation, though, heard endless would be “teaching play”. Here we are ists. We were in dialogue with them, for comments about them from all kinds of Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is with the relationship between learning sure, and that was and is very important people, ranging from really erotic, hot and teaching again. for us. But for our projects we worked stuff, to witty remarks and giggling rec - L+Ó: Yes we have been inspired by with people who were not art profes- ognition, to serious anger or aggression. Brecht’s ideas, but also by other artists sionals and whom we met by chance. Some people even cut them down. Pre- who have furthered them in different We met Chucci and Asdrubal in Havana, dictably, response in Italy has been the ways. We like the radicalism of Brecht’s for example, when we started working loudest and most proactive so far. The vision, with its participatory concern and on our project ‘... no te creas cosas’ for work triggered a broad discussion. The use of distancing devices to reflect on the 8th Havana Biennial in 2003. Chucci press reported, and there were several the ideological construct of capitalist and Asdrubal were hanging out at a gas letters to the editor for or against the WHALE reality. station where we stopped to buy rum, work. EB: I wonder if you see any parallels in so we started talking. We showed them EB: You said elsewhere that your works your work to the didacticism of Brecht. some of our posters, and in return they are often site-related. If I apply this term WATCHING L+Ó: No, we don’t. There is a didactic invited us to a party. They became our to your sound works, how would you aspect we play and work with, at least in assistants, and we also collaborated say that they reflect an interior environ- EXPRESS „That was marvellous! some of our projects, but Brecht had a with their families and friends. They ment? Perhaps you could talk about this We saw many whales rather authoritarian idea of didacticism were the ones who introduced us to the in relation to the new version of ‘Your Make the most and dolphins. Fantastic.“ that we don’t have. local saying “no te creas cosas” which country doesn’t exist’ in the city space of -Samantha EB: Humour and play are important means “don’t be smug about yourself”, Venice. The piece will be a performance of your day! strategies in your work. and we picked that up as the title for our recorded on video and audio, and will work, like we often do. result in both a video and a separate Spend more time whale L+Ó: Yes, humour and play are very important indeed. They are relativisers; The idea for ‘The Constitution of the audio work. watching and less time they are subversive and destabilising Republic of Iceland’ was motivated by ÓÓ: It’s a site-related recording, since waiting. aspects, and that is how we use them. our professional dialogue with Karólína it will also capture sounds from the city, They are existential factors we can in- Eiríksdóttir. From working with her we and this environment will directly affect clude. They can free us from constraints, have learned how our concepts hooked the recording. Rather than talking about Takes We and undermine hierarchies and reorder up with our collaborators’ ideas and vice space, we prefer to talk about context; only 2-2 offer free them. versa—in regards to time, space, ab- we’re interested in creating our works hours pick-up EB: You have made critical work on so- straction, and engagement. in relation to sites. Maybe our audio in the cial and political subjects, but you have EB: On the other hand, there is the audi- works are more related to context than Reykjavik also worked directly with political activ- ence. Susanne Leeb writes in her essay site. ‘Living Room Reading – The Epi- area! ist groups. How does this relate to your that “your works are not participative sode of Hrut and Mord Fiddle’, for ex- artistic practice? in the sense that the audience would ample, reflects on Iceland as a site, and ÓÓ: We work first and foremost in be directly involved in an activity”, but its construct through the centuries until dialogue with the art context, but our that within them you debate the role of today. The text that is read, the position practice is very often enriched by ideas the spectator by confronting different it holds, and the foreign voice reading it, WHALE WATCHING TOURS from other fields. Working with political spheres with one another. I agree with contrast with the site, though they are activist groups is a way of deepening her, and would like to follow up the idea still part of it. For us site-relation is an APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEPT OKT our knowledge of social and political is- of the status of the viewer rather than attitude to perception or communication 10:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 Say the keyword and sues, and of bringing some of their ex- the collaborator. As mentioned earlier, rather than a means in itself. save 10% of your whale 14:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 perience into our work. For ‘Avant-garde you traverse differing social spheres— EB: Relational aesthetics is a term that watching adventure: 17:00 17:00 17:00 Citizens’, for example, we joined De by entering public space, by opening the French art critic Nicolas Bour- Grapevine Special Offer. 15 JUL – 15 AUG 20:00 20:00 Bezoekersgroup, a group of people who up the art space to other social groups riaud coined in the 1990s to describe regularly visit undocumented migrants than the art world, by creating ambiva- artistic practices which emphasise imprisoned at the detention centre at lent objects or situations that function in “human relations and their social con- Rotterdam Airport. We joined the group different worlds, by producing a piece text” (Bourriaud, Relational Aesthetics twice to attend a mass at the detention for television, to name only a few—and p.113)—key protagonists being Rirkrit PUFFIN centre. Officially they were helping the thus make your work accessible to wider Tiravanija, Philippe Parreno, Pierre priest to arrange the chairs, hand out audiences. Huyghe, or Carsten Höller. But to me WATCHING the songbooks, and so on, while actu- ÓÓ: We try to create different ways into their projects oftentimes merely serve Takes SPECIAL ally they established communication the work. Because who is the art audi- to highlight a social/communal activity only 1 The Puffin Express adventure TOURS between some of the people and their ence? Some of our latest videos are now within the art context—instead of ques- hour is an inexpensive and lawyers and/or family and friends, or being shown in universities, film festi- tioning the relation between the art, its charming option for everyone. just listened to their stories or answered vals, NGOs, and activist websites and presentation, and the viewer on a more their questions. Those were weird ex- events. To a certain extent these audi- structural level. I’d say that your practice Five times daily: 8:30, 10:30, HOW periences in which we witnessed op- ences read the work differently from goes way beyond that, because it as- 12:30, 14:30 and 16:30. TO BOOK? pression, manipulation, pragmatism, the art professionals. We are happy with sesses the configuration of the audience Only Call us post-colonialism, patronisation, hope, that and want to connect to those dif- and constructs the exhibition installa- Sea Angling Trips also +354 892 0099 and despair. ferent readings. For our MFA in Gron- tion from there. 20 or book online EB: Your relation to your collaborators ingen we wrote a ‘Viewer’s Manifesto’: L&Ó: Yes, you could say something like available daily at 18:00. Euros! specialtours.is on the one hand, and to the audience “Dare to be open. Dare to look. Dare to that. From the settlers necessity to modern man’s delicacy.

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MILLENNIUM – Icelandic art through the ages. MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – Eddas and Sagas CHILD OF HOPE – Youth and Jón Sigurðsson Phase one. Starts 23 June. The ancient vellums on display. Tribute to the leader of the independence movement.

EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL Hverfisgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) MANUSCRIPTS weekdays at 3 pm, Tel: 545 1400 · thjodmenning.is · kultur.is except Wednesdays.

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www.gamlasmidjan.is tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6 — 2011 The ‘hot springs hunt’ is available through Arctic Adventures. It costs 12.900 ISK and includes pick-up and packed lunch. Guaranteed departure for 2 persons on Wednesdays with pick up from Reykjavík between 8:30-9:00 and from N1 32 in Hveragerði at 9:30, from May 15-September 15. Book trip at www.adventures.is or call +354-5627000

Travel | On yr. own Immersing In A River Of Relaxation Geothermal bathing at Mt. Hengill

Roll up for the magical mystery trip to hiking to get to the springs, which we should not be too worried about cally depending on the season. In the water, watching the beauty of nature probably the only place on earth where means that being in good shape is rec- this because our nice tour providers winter it’s completely white and almost all around you. A light cloud of white your nose hair will freeze while your ommended for our intrepid explorers— brought everyone a tasty packed lunch. impassable due to snow, but when the steam emerges from the river and adds nipples and bum are safe and warm it’s a great time for that bacon-and-na- sun arrives a nature explosion sur- a romantic, dream-like appearance to in a river of hot natural water, flowing cho free diet (however, the hike is fairly Hello Hengill! rounds us: dried and green grass, ar- the scene. Bravo! directly from the core of the earth. Wel- low-intensity, so unless you go around Equipped and ready, our trip begins omatic flowers, a bit of mud now and Did you enjoy that? I hope so, be- come to the hot springs in the beautiful in a walker, you’ll probably be fine). at Laugavegur 11, embarking from the then and Vivaldi’s ‘Spring’ playing on cause now it’s time for drama, for the valley of Reykjadalur. Then, we must not forget to wear Arctic Adventures main office. The continuous loop… most dangerous and tragic moment in proper clothes: a warm coat, water- bus ride to the hot springs takes forty After an hour and fifteen minutes of our adventure; yes, in the end, you have First things first proof pants, a good pair of hiking minutes on Iceland's main ring road, walking, we arrive at our destination. to get out of water. It’s normal, for al- To prepare for our adventure there are boots, a swimsuit (of course), and Route 1, before we turn off at the small A stream of warm crystal clear water most all humans, to fear going from 40 a few things to take into consideration. clean undies for when we change after town of Hveragerði. From there it’s one welcomes us with open arms, making degrees to 3 in a millisecond. But the First, keep in mind that the trip involves the hot bath. It’s wise to dress in layers kilometre by dirt road before we are fi- the trip well worth the effort and every trick is to do the deed as fast as you so that we can take them off as we get nally able to get off the bus and admire callus acquired. can. If not, you run the serious risk of warmer and start sweating during the Mount Hengill, which rises up before suffering from hypothermia. hike. Think of this excursion as a kind of us. Feeling like a lobster After you are dressed again the Words strip poker game, you begin with many The terrain is quite plain at first but The best part of the trip has come. It’s return is dead easy. The path is nearly José Ángel Hernández layers of clothing and finish almost na- after a while there are several difficult time to immerse ourselves in the cosy all downhill and a feeling of well-being ked, while preserving your dignity. slopes, some of them full of stones hot water and relax, a pleasure well possesses you. Therein is the magic of Photography Finally, we must be sure to have and gravel that can be slippery if one deserved after the long hike. It’s dif- Mt. Hengill and its hot springs; you end José Ángel Hernández enough snacks and water for more doesn’t pay attention. ficult to describe the wonderful feel- your hike with a big smile on your face. than two hours of hiking, although The landscape changes dramati- ing you get while lying in the warm A highly recommended trip. Reykjavík’s Largest Shopping Centre

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Monday to Wednesday 10–18.30, Thursday 10–21, Friday 10–19, Saturday 10–18, Sunday 13–18 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 Visit the official travel guide to South Iceland at www.south.is Do you think puffins are maybe 'overrated'? for more information on accommodation, dining, and Why do folks love them so much? what to do & see while you are there. 34

Travel | Birdwatching Into The Ocean A tour of Cape Ingólfshöfði's history and wildlife

My gloveless hands clutched the cold metal railing of cape and walked about 2–3 kilometres following the rarely occurs, and when it does, it's usually because the tractor-drawn hay cart as we drove into the sea cliff ledge. the pair failed to produce young after trying for sev- Puffins start breeding at towards Ingólfshöfði, an isolated cape located south Before Einar mentioned it, I had no idea Ingólf- eral years. Some of its neighbours on Ingólfshöfði, around“ four to five years of of the Vatnajökull glacier. From a distance, a vast shöfði was named after the first permanent settler in like the Great Skua, sabotage the puffin's romantic ocean seemed to separate us from our destination. Iceland, Ingólfur Arnarson, who spent a few winters lifestyle by murdering its children. With a wingspan age and remain with the same In reality, it was a thin layer of water that the tractor's on the cape in the late 800s before moving to Reyk- of up to 140 cm, Great Skuas are much larger than mate for life. These birds are burly tires easily traversed. javík. When Ingólfur and brother-in-law Hjörleifur puffins and find their young quite tasty. the ideal of monogamy in the Hróðmarsson first saw land on their voyage from Known to fly at the head of humans or other GAGGLES OF GIGGLES Norway, Ingólfur threw his high-seat pillars (a pair intruders approaching its nest, the Great Skua is a flesh; divorce rarely occurs, In late April, the six-kilometre drive through a wet, of wooden poles that symbolized the status of head feisty parent. While on Ingólfshöfði I felt as though and when it does, it's usually black sand desert to Ingólfshöfði, though scenic, was of the household in Scandinavian houses) overboard they were watching me closely as I paraded around a cold and bumpy one. The bumps, however, pro- and vowed to settle where the gods brought them to their home. (The puffin, however, remained oblivious because the pair failed to duced mostly giggles over grumbles from me and my shore. It took three years for Ingólfur's slaves to find to our presence until someone got too close.) produce young after trying for travel mates. We could see Ingólfshöfði's silhouette the pillars in the bay of what is now Reykjavík. After climbing up a steep-ish sand dune, Einar several years. in the distance, and its elusiveness kept us inquisi- guided the group along the cliffs of Ingólfshöfði that tive and happy. NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK faced the open ocean. In the corner of my eye, I The only way to get to Ingólfshöfði is via amphibi- During the summer, thousands of nesting seabirds caught a glimpse of a silly little bird flapping its wings ous vehicles or tractors (so don't try to drive there in call Ingólfshöfði home, especially puffins and Great vigorously in an attempt to make it to the edge of your rental, even if it's a 4x4). For the past decade, Skuas, which is one reason why many tourists travel the rock ledge. With its natural tuxedo and colour- Sigurður Bjarnason, a retired farmer of the area, and to the cape on Einar's tours. Before heading out, Ein- ful beak, puffins are not that difficult to spot. Before his family have been driving gaggles of tourists out ar warned us that we might not see puffins this early plummeting down to the ocean below, the puffin to the cape daily during the summer using their nifty in the season. In late April, only the males have come remained still just long enough for all of us to get a tractors. Due to Sigurður's increasing age, his son to shore to clean out their old nests, a burrow usu- closer look at him through the monocular, which my Einar has taken over most of the tours with his wife ally situated at the edge of a sharp precipice. After bird-crazy eyes enjoyed immensely. Matta. cleaning, the males line the newly excavated nests On our way back to the tractor, I spotted the skel- with a fresh layer of plants, feathers and seaweed. eton of a bird stripped bare to the bones lying in the HUMBLED BY HISTORY The females, who are courted and charmed (and im- grass, its bright orange and black beak giving away Though I usually prefer travelling on my own to guid- pregnated) on the rough waters of the north Atlantic its identity. Despite their comical name and appear- ed tours, I was pleasantly surprised by Einar's tour Ocean, come to land around mid-May, when they ance, I was reminded while on Ingólfshöfði that puf- of Ingólfshöfði: he did not herd the group like cattle, have to find their mate amongst a bustling colony of fins are real, live animals, susceptible to the grips of Words nor did he make cheesy jokes that aimed to please other puffin couples. Skuas, starvation and disease. Seeing them in their Vanessa Schipani the dull-brained masses. He provided information natural habitat, they became much more than the about the history and ecology of the cape in a re- MONOGAMY AND MURDER caricature tourism companies portray them to be. Photography laxed, straightforward manner and came equipped Puffins start breeding at around four to five years of For this, I have a newfound respect for puffins; for Maroesjka Lavigne with a monocular through which we could all gaze age and remain with the same mate for life. These tour guides, too, and their fancy monoculars. at seabirds. We spent about an hour and half on the birds are the ideal of monogamy in the flesh; divorce

www.airiceland.is

GRÍMSEY

BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Kra a

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www.airiceland.is [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 Contact Air Iceland or travel agent for reservation. The Reykjavík Grapevine The ‘Wonders of Reykjanes and Blue Lagoon’ tour can be booked through Reykjavík Excursions at www.re.is or Issue 7 — 2011 by calling +354 580 5400. The tour costs 13.000 ISK, which includes bus fare, guidance in English, and entrance to the Salted Cod/Earth Energy Museum. Lunch and entrance to the Blue Lagoon are not included in the price, 35 but there is time given to eat in Grindavík. The tour runs 8 hours, from 9:00 to 17:00, with frequent stops.

Travel | Organised The (Hidden) Wonders Of Reykjanes

The Reykjanes Peninsula as seen NOT through a bus window

The Reykjanes Peninsula “Have you ever been to the Reykjanes the biggest lake in Southwest Iceland. good to be home again, may I add) Finally, the trip ends at the ever-pop- is much more than a highway Peninsula?” our tour guide asked. I The lake covers an area of 10 square the tour took a more cultural and ular Blue Lagoon, where after wit- “ thought to myself: “Of course, I took kilometres, and reaches a depth of historical turn. First, we visited Grin- nessing these hidden beauties and and the Blue Lagoon. It’s the the scenic drive from Keflavík Inter- 97 metres. This breathtaking river is davík, a fishing town and the home learning about the history of Salted beautiful landscapes and national to Reykjavík and even went unique in that it does not receive wa- of the joint Salted Cod Museum and Cod and its importance to Iceland, to the Blue Lagoon twice”. He gave ter from any river, but is created solely the Earth Energy Museum. The Salted it was nice to bathe in the blue wa- dense history that can be me a smirk, and as if reading my mind by ground water and rain. It maintains Cod Museum provided insight into ters. If you’re lucky, there will be a found in the area if one does a stated, “And I don’t mean just the its massive size despite the fact that Iceland’s once staple export, and how frat party bumping around the lagoon drive down the high way and the Blue there is a rift, the same rift that in it has evolved through the ages. For bar, complete with techno music and little more searching. Lagoon. There is more to Reykjanes 2000 caused the lake to lose 20% of example, how rowboats were used raucous Americans. But only if you’re than that”. With those words, we were its surface. Since then, the rift has for a thousand years, which limited lucky. If you’re worried about the beer off. decreased in amplitude, allowing the fishing to within 3 miles of the shore. that is spilled in the Lagoon from Words The first notable stop was at an lake to return to its former glory, to This changed with the advent of new- these frat parties and how they keep S. Alessio Tummolillo area where the remnants of dried the delight of scuba divers and trout er boats and machinery, and by 1930, it clean (as I was), common bacteria cod (also known as skreið) were fishers alike. there were only 171 rowboats in use. does not thrive in the conditions of hanging. The edible parts were being We moved on to Seltún, which The Earth Energy Museum, housed in the lagoon, and the water is changed Photography shipped to Nigeria. Here we learned alone made me wonder how this tour the same building, provided history every 40 hours. Maroesjka Lavigne that salting and/or drying the fish, could be such a hidden gem. The of how Iceland was formed, and how Aside from the places mentioned, as opposed to freezing it or selling it hot springs at Seltún are some of the geothermal energy has been used in we also visited the previous NATO fresh, allows for 90% of the fish to be most stunning I’ve seen in Iceland. the country. base, stunning bird cliffs, as well as utilised, the liver being used to make The area was originally going to be We then visited the Íslendingur, a Reykjanesviti and Gunnuhver, the cod liver oil and other parts to make used to harness the geothermal en- hand-made Viking ship that in 2000 oldest lighthouse and largest steam fertiliser, whereas only 30% is used ergy for electricity, and some of the sailed from Iceland to Canada and the crater in Iceland, respectively. There when freezing the fish. This was a boreholes created by these feats United States in honour of Leif Eiríks- are a lot of things in Reykjanes that nice introduction to somewhere we have exploded, notably one in 1999, son’s discovery of North America, 500 go under the radar of tourists, but are would stop later in the trip, the Salted the explosion forming a crater 30 me- years prior to Christopher Columbus. very much worth seeing. It is far more Cod museum. ters in diameter. In the building where the Íslendingur than a highway and the Blue Lagoon. rests there is also a brief history of It’s the beautiful landscapes and NATURAL BEAUTY BACALAO AND VIKING HISTORY the Vikings and their way of life. dense history that can be found in the When we arrived at Krýsuvík, things With the exception of the walk be- area if one does a little more search- started to pick up. First we discov- tween the Eurasian and North Ameri- THE BLUE LAGOON: SPRING ing. And the location for a rockin’ col- ered the beautiful lake Kleifarvatn, can continental tectonic plates (it felt BREAK 2011 lege party.

www.airiceland.is

GRÍMSEY

BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Kra a

BLÖNDUÓS AKUREYRI

FLATEY EGILSSTAÐIR NESKAUPSTAÐUR

Hallormstaður

Always best price online. STYKKISHÓLMUR Kárahnjúkar SNÆFELLSJÖKULL

ILULISSAT Greenland

CONSTABLE POINT BORGARNES Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations. Greenland KULUSUK Greenland Gullfoss AKRANES Geysir

NUUK FLU 51393 09/2010 Greenland REYKJAVÍK NARSARSSUAQ SIA.I S Greenland KEFLAVÍK Jökullónið

Blue Lagoon FAROE ISLANDS ÍSLENSK A www.airiceland.is [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 Contact Air Iceland or travel agent for reservation. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6 — 2011 If you get the proofreader joke on this page, you win a prize. FOR BEING A NERD! It's a pretty good prize. Write us if you got it, and we'll give it to you. 36

Music | Valur Gunnarsson

Are Icelanders Americanized? Really?

With their propensity for obesity and The next major music wave to hit “The first Icelandic rock bands were formed in the bands, such as Stuðmenn or Sálin, be- economic mismanagement, one could Iceland also came from the UK. This came big enough to be able to do both, be forgiven for thinking of the Iceland- time it was punk, and instead of trying early 60s in Keflavík, in the shadow of the US attract the dancing crowds but yet play ers as little Americans. Conventional to emulate their heroes, like the ‘60s military base”. their original material. With enough wisdom would indeed suggest this. bands had done, the Icelandic punks hits, the boundary between country While the Scandinavians are busy con- went their own way and arguably sur- ball and full on concert became erased structing their welfare states full of passed their role models. Icelandic for some, but these were rarely the cut- equality and general contentment, the punk was inspired by events in London, ing from the local countryside. One In Sweden, heartland rock lives on ting edge bands. Icelanders prefer giving all their money but the result was purely Icelandic. might think that tales of the true West in Linköping’s Lars Winnerbäck, who is So where does this all leave us? We to a select few for them to squander Without it, there would be no Björk and would strike a chord with Icelandic widely popular in his homeland as well still have the Reykjavik underground, away. The same can be said of culture. probably no Sigur Rós either. farmers, but perhaps the comparison as Norway, and plays traditional rock where originality is highly prized but We know little of what goes on in just sounds silly for men on tiny horses and roll with honest and sometimes the attention of the bar crowds can Oslo or Stockholm or Copenhagen, The Sami Springsteen rounding up docile sheep in hilly lava biting lyrics about Sweden’s small be hard to maintain. Then we have the but every inane trend from the US gets This is where fields. towns as well as its cities. We never country balls (you can find versions of picked up and misunderstood and re- Icelandic music In fact, this is the general Icelandic really had that here. Bubbi certainly this in Reykjavík), where the attention cycled. Or does it? differs consider- attitude towards Americana, country & went through some Springsteen-ish span is pretty much irrelevant. The first Icelandic rock bands were ably from its western, as well as the ‘80s heartland phases, but honesty is not really his formed in the early 60s in Keflavík, in neighbours in rock of Springsteen, John Mellencamp strong suit, and he has long since lost Heartfelt cool? the shadow of the US military base. Scandinavia. and others, mostly looks silly to the Ice- any connection with the working man. The post-punk Much has been made of the influence Punk was more important here and lander. Sure, people like Johnny Cash, Some of his imitators, such as Rúnar emphasis on of Armed Forces Radio and the US stretched out into the mid-Eighties. but for his last underground phase, not Þór (although not taken very seriously), originality has soldiers in Iceland. Just as American Also, we never really discovered Bruce his Stetson days. Rockabilly does have probably came closer. And then there given us some sailors supposedly handed out blues Springsteen. Springsteen first toured its admirers, but this is largely ironic as was Bjartmar Guðlaugsson, who wrote pretty great mu- records to youngsters in Liverpool, so Scandinavia in 1981 and soon inspired well as cyclical. You don’t get the die- rock-pop tunes with sharp social com- sic, some of the Yanks stationed here, confined to a host of imitators. The Nordics took to hards of Northern Scandinavia, bliss- mentary in the ‘80s and was popular for which has been exported to the outside their base, brought rock and roll to Ice- heartland rock, in Norway there was fully unaware of the latest retro trends. a while. Iceland’s finest lyricist, Megas, world. In this, we have done better than land. Åge Alexandersen and in Sweden there Icelanders, like everyone else, are influ- although heavily influenced by Dylan, the more traditionalist Norwegians, al- was Björn Afzelius and a host of others, enced by America. But not so much by is too much of a poet, provocateur and though Sweden has a vibrant music Beatlemania and punk some who had been around for a while Americana. satirist for mainstream rock, more an- scene largely ignored here. American influ- but now suddenly started wearing cient sage than working class hero. The quest for something different ence was no cropped t-shirts and tight bluejeans. Norway’s Wild West, has saved us from countless bands doubt consider- Even Kim Larsen in Denmark had his Sweden’s Heartland Country balls and coolness sporting Stetsons and steel guitars and able. Neverthe- Springsteenesque elements, if not the In Norway, inter- The Reykjavík singing about the simple things. Yet, less, the bands biceps. est in country scene is cool, there is a downside. In the ‘70s and here all tried to This was not just imitation, though. music is still sarcastic and of- ‘80s, when people first started writing sound like the Beatles. American Americana strikes a deep chord in growing, with ten quite origi- lyrics in Icelandic, some very interest- trends, such as folk or acid rock, only the north. Drive an hour outside of nine major festi- nal. It is aware of ing stuff happened. This looked set arrived in the ‘70s, if at all. The UK was Oslo, and you can see people sporting vals every sum- trends in Lon- to develop into all sorts of directions. the place locals went to for their record cowboy hats. In northern Sweden, the mer, attracting between 10–30.000 don and even New York, but it does not Then Björk (no slouch as a lyricist her- buying. In fact, Merseybeat was the raggare drive their hotrods as if per- people each. Stories from the Norwe- delve into New Jersey or Texas or the self) happened, world-wide success dominant form here almost until the manently suspended in some twilight gian countryside, usually sung in a vast Midwestern hinterlands of the US. suddenly became a possibility, and the end of the ‘60s. The reasons for this are version of Grease, and the area of Os- strong provincial dialect, are accompa- Other Icelandic towns, apart from Ke- Icelandic lyric receded into the back- manifold. Some point to the similarity trobothnia is known as Finland’s Texas. nied with Americanized Western music. flavík, are mostly too small to develop ground. between Liverpool and Keflavík or even Even the Sami have their own brand of Yet many complain that they do not get their own unique musical identity, at Ironically, it is the pop bands, court- Reykjavík as harbour towns. More im- country or even gospel joik, as can be the same amount of respect that jazz least for any length of time. Aspiring ing local success, that tend to sing portantly, perhaps, Iceland lacks the heard at the annual Easter festival in and blues festivals receive. “At most musicians make their name in Reykja- (their mostly silly love songs) in Icelan- diverse underground scenes of the city Kautokeino. larger festivals, you see politicians at- vík. dic, whereas more serious musicians the size of New York or Los Angeles. tending opening ceremonies, but not So what do Icelandic country folk who can’t make a living domestically Essentially, people here just wanted to Icelandic cowboys so in the country ones”, says Kristin listen to, then? Mostly, they just like tend to opt for English. In neither case dance, and this was much easier to do Despite the best Solli, who holds a PhD in country music, to dance, and traditionally the best is there much emphasis on lyrical con- to “Beatle music” than to 15 minute or- efforts of Icelan- to Aftenposten newspaper. For many, way to make a living out of playing tent. Now, if someone were to combine gan solos. Quite possibly, the very prox- dic cowboy Hall- C&W festivals are primarily associated music in Iceland is to hire a bus and Americana’s love of heartfelt lyrics with imity of the base and the disputes sur- björn Hjartar- with drunkenness. As are most Icelan- travel around the countryside playing Reykjavik cool and originality, it might rounding it may have led people to son, Americana dic country balls, though without the top 40 hits to inebriated audiences at be a very interesting prospect indeed. want to look elsewhere. is mostly miss- country music. balls (the infamous “sveitaball”). Some

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SOPRANO: THE REYKJAVIK MUSIC BY NORWEGIAN COMPOSERS: EINARSDÓTTIRÞÓRA OPERA CHOIR & BÆRUM SYMPHONY EDVARD GRIEG, ALTO: ORCHESTRA (NORWAY) GEIR TVEITT, SESSELJA EIVIND GROVEN KRISTJÁNSDÓTTIR More information: VÖLUSPÁ BASS: WWW.HARPA.IS BY DAVID JÓHANN SMÁRI MONRAD SÆVARSSON Tickets: 2900 - 2500 (discounted price is for pensioners, students JOHANSEN CONDUCTOR: and children). Order tickets at (ICELANDIC/ www.harpa.is NORWEGIAN GARÐAR Discounted tickets only on sale at POEM FROM CORTES Harpa concert hall. 10TH CENTURY) The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 This article's author, philosopher/filmmaker Haukur Már Helgason, is premier- ing a documentary on the RVK9 case at the Skjaldborg film festival this month (www.skjaldborg.com). It's called Ge9n, and we hear it's pretty awesome. 38

Life | Access

The Universal Project Of Whale-Watching In Húsavík

A few years back fate same company would employ you as a would be to go around begging. Three albeit large swimming meat contain- already his or hers. This universal en- brought me to Húsavík, a worker, and handle the groceries, while options: Steal, observe ritual, or beg. ers—and act as if they own the place, titlement is already nominally secured small town in northern Ice- taking care that you earned a little less But only money, and the purchases without being even slightly interested in the UN Declaration of Human Rights, land. Fate? Well, friends were than you spent. Your wages and your with which our daily lives are now satu- in the locals, the sagas or the latest which includes not just the right to life, getting married close by, it was friend - purchases would be kept in the com- rated, was the tourist made possible. town council disputes. The other, more to shelter and nourishment, free speech ship that brought me, but I had a mini- pany's register, leaving actual money in French and Italian families could finally affluent, sort consists of those who like etc., but the right to receive education revelation there, the whimsiest little the hands of the owners. Keeping you spend their idle time in Húsavík and see the idea of tourism, practice it them- and enjoy culture. The charter is quite a epiphany. Húsavík is a pretty little town, in debt made sure you wouldn't leave. some whales. selves from time to time, but do so on radical document, once fully observed. with pretty little houses, and during the In t he 18th century, when Ice - Sitting by the pier in Húsavík I the presumption that the tourists are The leftist emphasis on justice and summer it's crowded with tourists. You land got its own prison, now the seat thought to myself: this is magnificent. the sorts of persons they could imagine equality is not supposed to be a step might have been there. I heard more of government, the first people to be This is absolutely wonderful. How de- inviting to their own living room. They backwards from mobility, but precisely Italian and French than Icelandic there. locked up were the drifters. Locked up liciously absurd that this is even pos- assume sameness, that wherever the the universalisation of mobility. Life centres around the harbour, and forced to labour for the growing sible—not only technologically, but tourist comes from, he is not a total So how do you tell whether an where once upon a time they must town's first industrial enterprise. Even socially: that with a bank note or an stranger. anti-capitalist project is an emancipa- have caught fish, but now offer whale today wandering—wandering without electronic stripe in your pocket you can tory project deserving the honourable watching tours. The harbour has been some sort of capital, be it financial or whimsically go around the globe and SENSE OF ENTITLEMENT label Left, or the conservative people- organised as its own little world, at- social—is considered hazardous to our rest assured that you will suffer nei- What the Left, however, has in com- should-stay-where-they-belong-and- tractive sign-posts pointing this way street-number-based societies, as can ther hunger nor thirst, nor lack a place mon with the now almost universally observe-good-old-values sort of thing? for tickets, that way for dining—they be seen by the way European countries, to stay. And you don't even have to be despised libertarians, is admiration for Currently this method is valid: Once have stuff that looks like amusement, Iceland included, treat members of the polite, let alone observe religious ritual. the wonders of this minimal alienation: such a project has been declared by a along with restaurants and cafés in the Roma population. you don't have to be nice to be entitled. government, you observe the languag- plural, which is more than could have TWO ATTITUDES TOWARDS TOUR- The rights of money are observed in es spoken at the country's main sites been said about any small town in Ice- THREE WAYS TO TRAVEL ISTS the way all rights should be—the differ- of attraction. If a growing number of land less than two decades ago. Before the advent of money there So much for the glory of capitalism. ence between a right and a permission the people who go whale-watching in were three ways to travel: you could Everyone is an anti-capitalist now, is precisely this: a right is something Húsavík, say, come from countries with THE REVELATION go around with an army, looting your also the neoliberals of old—ask any- you neither work for (and no, no one a lower GDP than Iceland, if you hear I sat there and observed the people way through the world—or as a thief, one about Davíð Oddsson, Hannes really every got rich from work, keep Hindu, Arabic and Swahili more often, boarding, unboarding, dining—mem- observing the same logic on a smaller Hólmsteinn, Styrmir Gunnarsson and your myths in your pocket, please) year by year, someone is doing some- bers of the professional classes with scale. You could go around as member their legacy: currently they spend their nor have to prove by displaying intel- thing progressive. Something progres- their spouses and offspring—and of a church or a convent, in the cer- days blogging, inventing curses against ligence, kindness or any other virtue— sive such as deciding that from now thought to myself: this is what money tainty that other churches or convents global capitalism, 'bad capitalists', and you neither ask for it nor earn it, since when people from sub-Saharan Africa is for. It was a revelation of the sort that would greet you and treat you kindly, greed. Right-wing or conservative cap- it is not granted: once declared, a right make enquiries about tourist visas to neoliberal pundits hope we all have at as you would one day treat someone italist critique comes in two flavours is simply yours. Our current challenge, Iceland, they get a reply. If this is not one point or another: this is what mon- else in return. Members of the aris- that can be detected by their attitude the ongoing challenge of modern times, the case, and the whale-watchers stay ey is for. tocracy could rely on a little bit of both towards tourists. is this: how to make the liberty of the thoroughly OECD, then whatever sort My great-grandfather saw money as well as on the hospitality of their There are those who detest the whale-watchers in Húsavík—their inde- of socialism is going on, sorry to say: for the first time when he was eleven benevolent peers—not the ones who whale-watchers in Húsavík. They will pendence—independent from arbitrary it's just not the progressive sort. years old. Money as our daily means would rather get rid of you. The moral find it tasteless, plebeian, offensive, factors such as property? of exchange, something we all use and logic of greeting and treating a traveller that such ignoramuses can step on an Whatever they've told you in the last are aware of, is a very recent thing. kindly is noted in the Icelandic Viking airplane, notice nothing on the way ex- two decades, there is a leftist utopia: Still during the first decades of the verses Hávamál, but implicitly reserved cept the boarding signs and whatever it is where anyone is considered en- twentieth century it was more com- to upper classes—thralls are a different DVD they watch on board, catch a ride titled to a lot of things, anywhere, at mon in Icelandic municipalities that the category, spoken of but not directly ad- or rent a car to Húsavík, hop on board any time—where you don't have to like Haukur Már helgason dressed by the poet. Your third option a boat, watch whales—those mundane a person to grant him or her what is Gúndi

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[email protected] Your essential guide +354 562 6555 Hverfisgata 89 to life, travel and 101 Reykjavík entertainment in Iceland Every Day Summer 08:00 - 22:00 Winter STUFFED WITH STUFF ISSUE 7 YOUR FREE COPY 09:00 - 18:00

PAGE 18 Looking for shelter, some sheep fell River Rafting into trenches and died. Others went temporarily or permanently blind from the ash. on Hvítá River There’s lots of tasty volcano coverage in this issue... yum! from 7.990 ISK Page 24 Nature is the Adventure! And it's weird how endearing those kitschy electro-pop songs have turned out to be. ‘100% Pure Love’ by Crystal Waters would have made me cringe back in '95 but now I would dance to it in a heartbeat. Maybe all that the Euro-techno needed was to age like blue cheese. The new GusGus album is apparently pretty great

PAGE 06 “Greenlandic authorities allow the hunting of about 50 polar bears in East Greenland each year, which they deem to be a safe limit for the stock. They have told us that they fail to see the rationale behind shipping stray polar bears alive from Iceland to Greenland, given that this is a rare occurrence and has no effect on the species and its survival.” Minister for the Environment Svandís Svavarsdóttir explains Iceland’s polar bear policy

PAGE 10 The crooks won by a landslide. Our own Icelandic Conservatives could easily put up such a list of candidates. Would they win? Former leader of the Icelandic Social- Democratic Party Jón Baldvin Hanni- balsson looks at similarities between the happenings in Spain and Iceland.

PAGE 27 There’s a rich brass culture in the English industrial North; every town has its own brass band manned by Arctic Rafting offers rafting trips on the Hvítá River, only 10 minutes local coal miners. It’s a tradition that from the Geysir area. The trips start at 7.990 ISK and a variety of dates back two-hundred-plus years. combination tours are availble every day. The mines were, of course, closed in We can also pick you up from your hotel or hostel in Reykjavík. Call us the 1980s after the General Strikes; on +354-571-2200, meet us at Laugavegur 11 at Fjallakofinn outdoor Thatcher closed them all store or ask for us at your hotel or nearest tourist information center. Composer Jóhann Jóhannsson just com- pleted a really interesting project!

Rafting Canoeing Sightseeing Super-Jeep Whale Watch Horse Riding ATV Snowmobile

www.arcticrafting.com | [email protected] | +354-571-2200 | Visit us at Fjallakofinn outdoor store Laugavegur 11 Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland Issue 7 - 2011 www.grapevine.is

June 16 - June 20 Viking Festival! Viking Village, Strandgata 55, Hafnarfjörður Free entrance

Vikings: They’re Back! Keep your children and pets at home, because the horned helmet wearing gang has returned, and they’re taking no prisoners... Actually, Vikings were not as brutal as Hollywood films and geeky medieval novels make them out to be; they were really none more brutal than a gang of drunken football hooligans (if those hooligans had, like, knives and axes and went around setting fire to stuff and impaling babies on their swords). You can find out about the way these ancient guys lived at the Viking Festival in Hafnarfjörður, which starts on June 16 and goes on until June 20. The Viking Festival is a fun event, a sort of renaissance fair dedicated to the dark ages. Expect demonstrations about Viking cuisine, music, handcraft, archery, etc., along with some impres- sive simulated battles featuring Vikings from all over Europe. Let your horns show! JH MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN JUNE

Prescribing with love music for your live experience

How to use the listings Venues are listed alphabetically by day. For complete listings and detailed information on venues visit www.grapevine.is Send us your listings: [email protected]

3 |FRI B5 00:00 DJ Leifur Bakkus 22:00 DJ Einar Sonic Barbara 00:00 DJ Lingerine Boston 22:00 Fridfinnur Café Oliver 22:00 Local DJ 3 5 23:00 Girls Just Wanna Have Fun, 3 June June for 1 cocktails for ladies Celtic Cross 01:00 Live Music Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live Music Get Inked! Dubliner 22:00 Live Music June 3-5 00:00 Live Music Sódóma, Tryggvagata 22 English Pub 21:30 Live Music Day pass, 700 ISK; Weekend pass, 1.700 ISK; Saturday and Sunday pass, 1100 ISK Esja 23:30 Tapas & White Wine night At Sódóma this weekend you can catch some of the greatest tattoo artists in the Faktóry world practicing their art. We’re talking about people like Thomas Asher, Jason 23:00 Valdimar & Jón Þór June, and Steve Bolts (and more!), who will be displaying and creating their mas- Free terpieces on-site. After, there will be live music performed by bands Endless Dark, Hressó Hoffman, The Vintage Caravan, and Legend. SAT 22:00 Jakob Smári followed by DJ Fúsi Kaffibarinn Hressó Faktóry 23:00 DJ Kári 22:00 AfroCubism followed by 21:00 Live jazz Prikið live DJ Prikið 00:00 DJ Addi Kaffibarinn 22:00 Hangover Movie Night - Free Salurinn, Kópavogur 20:00 DJ Andrés Níelsen Popcorn! 20:00 Jazz and Blues Concert 2900 ISK 00:00 DJ Árni Sveinsson Trúnó Sódóma Prikið All Day: Cosy Time 13:00 Tattoo Festival 00:00 Dj Árni Kocoon Many of the world greatest tattoo Sódóma artists will show off their work 22:00 Tattoo Gig 6 00:00 Tattoo Gig Live music from Texas Muffin, El |MON Live Music by Endless Dark, Camino, and The 59'ers, who will Bakkus Hoffman, The Vintage Caravan, be performing with Daniel August 21:00 Movie Night : Rakel Jónsdóttir Legend, 1000 ISK (GusGus) and Krummi (Minus), 1000 presents "Boy Meets Girl" Thorvaldsen ISK Barbara 00:00 Music from 80s, 90s, and today Thorvaldsen 21:00 Showing Season 2 of the Real Trúnó 00:00 Music from 80s, 90s, and today L-word 22:00 Local DJ Trúnó Café Oliver Vegamót 22:00 Barbara Grand Opening Party 22:00 Margarita Night 22:00 DJ Jonas Vegamót Den Danske Kro 22:00 DJ Danni Delux 22:00 Live Music Dubliner 4 22:00 Live Music |SAT English Pub B5 5 |sun 21:30 Live Music 00:00 DJ Leifur Barbara Prikið Bakkus 22:00 Queer movie night w/ queer 21:00 Dj Hús & Þórður Nikka Red 21:30 Hyphae Concert movie expert Erlingur Wine & Cheese for 2, 1000 ISK Show that will be streamed to Korzo Café Oliver Theatre in the Hague (Netherlands). 22:00 Salsa Night Performances by: Skurken, Tonik, Den Danske Kro 7 Beat Making Troopa, Orang Volante, 22:00 Live Music |TUE Plat, Steve Sampling, Murya and Dubliner Café Oliver Futuregrapher 22:00 Live Music 22:00 Live Karaoke 22:00 DJ Dans Hans English Pub Den Danske Kro Barbara 21:30 Live Music 22:00 Live Music 22:00 DJ Manny, Haff Haff, and Esja Dubliner surprise performances at GRAND RE- 23:00 Local DJ 22:00 Live Music OPENING after Barbara's facelift Boston 22:00 Biggi Maus Café Haiti 21:00 Jussanam - Brazilian Jazz Sessions, 1000 ISK Café Oliver 22:00 Local DJ 23:00 Girls Just Wanna Have Fun, 3 for 1 cocktails for girls Celtic Cross 01:00 Live Music Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live Music Dubliner 22:00 Live Music 00:00 Live Music English Pub 21:30 Live Music Esja 23:00 DJ Bogi Hallgrímskirkja 17:00 Haukur Tómasson's Flétta performed by Schola Cantorum, church Motet Choir and Chamber Orchestra Reykjavík 3500 ISK Harpa 20:00 Solaris Music accompanied by film. A collaborative effort by Brian Eno, Ben Frost, Nick Robertson, and Daniel Brown, 3500 ISK A Full List Of Every 4 Happy Hour Offer In 101 June B5 Dubliners Nýlenduvöruver- Happy Hour every day from Happy Hour every day from zlun Hemma & 17-19, beer and wine for 15-20, two for one Polar Valda 650 ISK. Beers, beer and shot for Happy Hour every day from Bar 11 1000 ISK. 16-20, Viking Beers for 550 ISK. Beers & shots for 450 ISK Faktorý on Thursdays. Happy Hour every day from Óliver Bar 46 17-20, large Egils Gull 500 Happy hour every day from ISK. 23-01. Happy Hour every day from 16-19, beers and shots are Hotel 101 Bar Obla Di Obla Da for 500 ISK. Happy Hour is daily from Happy Hour every day Barónspöbb 17-19, all drinks are 50% from 12-20, 500 ISK beers, off. 600 ISK shots and 800 ISK Beer is 500 ISK until 19. Hótel Holt Gallery single + mixer Bjarni Fel Bar Prikið Mojitos 750 ISK every Happy Hour every day from Happy hour every day from weekend from 23:00. Four Seasons Of Icelandic 16-19, beer and wine 50% 17-19, large beer 400 ISK. Boston off. Cocktail of the day is Buy four large beers, get Poetry And Music Happy Hour every day from 50% off. free nachos. Hallgrímskirkja church, Skólavörðuholti 16-20, two for one on beer. Íslenski Barinn Trúnó June 4, 17:00 Celtic Cross Every day, beer of the day Happy hour every day from Thursdays, lager for 500 for 650 ISK. 16-20, all beer and wine 3500 ISK ISK. Inquire about the malt Kaffibarinn 500 ISK. beer punchcards. Flétta is composer Haukur Tómasson’s Red wine special on Stofan new work based on a collection of Den Danske Kro Wednesday evenings at Refills on beer 600 isk all Icelandic poems about Icelandic nature. Happy Hour every day from 600 ISK a glass. day Haukur, with his classic and exciting 16-19, two for one. Shots Laundromat Café: Þingholt bar (Cen- for 500 ISK every Monday. sense of rhythm, puts music to these In May, Happy Hour every ter Hotel Þingholt) poems sung by Schola Cantorum and day from 22–01, two for Happy Hour every day from Dillon the Hallgrímskirkja Motet Choir. It can Happy Hour every day from one on beers. 17-19 as of June 1 (current- be described as an ode to the beauty of 16-20, two for one. ly every Friday and Satur- day), all drinks are half off. nature, making this piece an authentic journey through the four seasons and a delightful experience for the audience. RUN A 101 REYKJAVÍK BAR? IS YOUR 'HAPPY HOUR' MISSING? HAVE THE PRICES JH CHANGED? DROP US A LINE AND WE WILL AMEND.

English Pub Celtic Cross Boston 21:30 Live Music 22:00 Rock and Roll Grunge 22:00 Kari Kaffibarinn Night Café Oliver 22:00 DJ HalliValli Den Danske Kro 22:00 Local DJ Prikið 22:00 Live Music 23:00 Girls Just Wanna Have Fun, 21:00 DJ Óli Hjörtur Game Night Dubliner 3 for 1 cocktails for ladies 22:00 Live Music Celtic Cross English Pub 01:00 Live Music 21:30 Live Music Den Danske Kro 8 22:00 Live Music |WED Esja Bakkus 23:30 Tapas & White Wine night Dubliner 20:30 Pub Quiz! 500 ISK to play, cash Faktóry 22:00 Live Music prizes 22:00 Útidúr and friends + Dj 00:00 Live Music 22:00 DJ Creature of the Night Danni Deluxe English Pub Café Oliver Hressó 21:30 Live Music 22:00 Live Music 21:00 Agent Fresco Esja Den Danske Kro Kaffibarinn 23:00 DJ Bogi 22:00 Live Music 21:00 DJ Hús - Sexy Lazer Faktóry Dubliner Laugardalshöllin 23:00 Dj Joni & Viktor (SE) + DJ 21:30 Live Music 20:00 The Eagles (USA) 14900 ISK Svenni Swingmaster English Pub Prikið Hressó 22:00 Live Music 22:00 DJ Gay Latinoman 22:00 Penta Band followed by live DJ Faktóry Sódóma Kaffibarinn 22:00 Forgotten Lores & Endless 21:00 Nolo, Nori, and Vigri 1000 ISK 23:00 Hunk of a Man a.k.a Maggi Dark Thorvaldsen Legó Nasa 20:00 Salsa Night Prikið 19:00 Steelheart, 3500 ISK Tjarnarbíó 00:00 Dj Gísli Galdur. Prikið 20:00 The Warsaw Pact Thorvaldsen 22:00 DJ Krúsi (Varsjárbandalagið) 1500 ISK 00:00 Music from 80s, 90s, and today Trúnó Trúnó 20:00 Queer beer Night 20:00 Homojito Madness 9 Vegamót Vegamót |THU 22:00 DJ Jonas 22:00 DJ Símon B5 22:00 Sjonni's friends w/ Live Music Bakkus 11 22:00 DJ Einar Sonic 10 |FRI |SAt Barbara B5 B5 21:00 Live Music 00:00 DJ J-ojay-o 00:00 DJ Simon Boston Bakkus Bakkus 22:00 Pætur 00:00 DJ Walkie Talkie (USA) 00:00 DJ KGB Café Oliver Bar 11 Barbara 22:00 Ingó Veðurguð 21:00 The Vintage Caravan 00:00 Surprise DJ Barbara Boston 00:00 Surprise DJ 22:00 Unnur Andrea

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9 June

KAFFI ZIMSEN BEST New Kids In Town FRIENDS June 9 Laugardalshöllin, Engjavegi 8, 104 Reykjavik From 14.900 ISK

The Eagles are flying to Reykjavik. Woohoo! How lucky are we, the iconic American band has decided to begin its world tour DAY in the Icelandic capital! So we can enjoy one of the most magical experiences in life: Listening to ‘Hotel California’ live. And all this for the reasonable price of 14.900 (the cheapest ticket). It’s true, for that price you may expect them to play the wonderful MONDAYS song two hundred times, at the very least. Anyway, if you are a wealthy man or if you don’t want to die without having seen this legendary band of geriatrics, get your tickets to see them play at Laugardalshöllin on June 9. JH

€ Café Haiti 21:00 Bakkus Movie Night : Arna LARGE DRAFT .50 21:00 Jussanam - Brazilian Jazz Sigrún Haraldsdóttir presents 3 Sessions, 1000 ISK "Fearless Freaks" 15 |wed Hafnarstræti 18 - 517 4988 - www.kaffizimsen.is Café Oliver Café Oliver Bakkus 22:00 Local DJ 22:00 Margarita Night 21:00 Robot Disco pt. 5 23:00 Girls Just Wanna Have Fun, 3 for 1 Café Rosenberg Barbara cocktails for ladies 21:00 Sigurður Páll Árnason 21:00 Pub Quiz Celtic Cross Den Danske Kro Café Oliver 01:00 Live Music 22:00 Live Music 22:00 Live Music Den Danske Kro Dubliner Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live Music 22:00 Live Music 22:00 Live Music Dubliner English Pub Dubliner 22:00 Live Music 21:30 Live Music 22:00 Live Music English Pub Prikið English Pub 21:30 Live Music 21:00 Dj Hús & Þórður Nikka 21:30 Live Music Esja Red Wine and Cheese for 2, 1000 ISK Kaffibarinn 23:00 DJ Bogi 21:00 Extreme Chill Music - Klive, The country’s largest National Museum of Iceland Faktóry Plat, Oléna Simon, DJ AnDre, 22:00 Dj Karíus & Baktus w/Djezus Beatmakin Troopa museum of cultural 14 Opening hours: Hressó |TUE Prikið 22:00 Dalton Band followed by Live DJ history featuring a Summer Bakkus 21:00 Dj Krúsi Kaffibarinn 21:00 Foosball Competition Trúnó permanent exhibition on (May 1st – September 15th) 00:00 Alfons X Café Oliver 21:00 Pub Quiz Daily 10–17 Mosfellsbæ 22:00 Live Karaoke Iceland’s extraordinary 22:00 Legend at Músmos Festival Den Danske Kro Winter history from settlement Prikið 22:00 Live Music 16 (September 16th – April 30th) 00:00 DJ Danni Deluxe Dubliner |THu to present day. Sódóma 22:00 Live Music B5 Daily except Mondays 11–17 23:00 Green Lights & Útidúr, 1000 ISK English Pub 22:00 Sjonni's friends w/ live music Thorvaldsen 21:30 Live Music 01:00 DJ Johann 00:00 Music from 80s, 90s, and today Prikið Bakkus Trúnó 21:00 Dj Ýr 00:00 Dj Árni Sveins 22:00 Local DJ Game Night Barbara Vegamót 21:00 Icelandic Party with surprise DJ Suðurgata 41 · 101 Reykjavík · Tel. +354 530-2200 · www.natmus.is 22:00 DJ Benni Boston 22:00 Kari

12 |SuN Bakkus Numismatic Museum 15:00 Flea Market e-mail [email protected] if you'd like to participate Barbara 20:00 Video Marathon Boston 22:00 Hellert Café Oliver 22:00 Salsa Night Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live Music Dubliner 22:00 Live Music English Pub The Central Bank and National Museum of Iceland jointly operate 21:30 Live Music a numismatic collection that consists of Icelandic notes and coins, Prikið foreign money from earlier times, especially if mentioned in Icelan- 22:00 Hangover Movie Night - Free Popcorn! dic sources, and more recent currency from Iceland’s main trading Always cheeses and red wine Trúnó partner countries. A selection from the numismatic collection is on 21:00 Local DJ offer on Wednesday evenings display in showcases on the ground floor of the Central Bank’s main Vegamót building. 22:00 DJ Danni Delux www.facebook.com/kaffibarinn 13 Situated in the Central Bank´s main building in Kalkofnsvegur 1, Reykjavík. |Mon Open Mon.-Fri. 13:30-15:30. Free admittance. Bakkus No photographing allowed MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN JUNE

28 16 June June

Caribou Return To Iceland! NASA by Austurvöllur June 28 3800 ISK Remembering Eva Cassidy Just kidding. In our last issue, Caribou commented on how a show in Iceland Salurinn, Hamraborg 6, 200 Kopavogur, Iceland just seemed to never work out. And June 16 blast it all, a volcano erupted the day 3300 ISK before their arrival, stopping all flights in and out of Iceland. But never fear! Singer Jóhanna Guðrún pays tribute to the late American artist Eva Cassidy. In her The show will go on. If you already short career, Eva captured the attention of the audience with her moving inter- bought your ticket to the May 22nd pretations of blues, folk and pop songs; and her version of the classic ‘Over The show, you can use it at the June 28th Rainbow’ became a hit in the nineties. Almost fifteen years after her death, Ice- show. If you can’t make the date, call landic vocalist Jóhanna Guðrún remind us of Eva’s lovely, charming and powerful up midi.is at 540-7800 before or on May style. Jóhanna is well known for representing her country at the 2009 Eurovision 30, and your ticket will be refunded. Song Contest in Moscow, where she wound up in second place with the song ‘Is SAT It True?’. JH

Café Oliver Hressó Vegamót 22:00 Ingó Veðurguð 22:00 Timburmenn followed by DJ 22:00 DJ Hannes Celtic Cross Fannar 22:00 Ladies Night Kaffibarinn Only female singers 23:00 DJ KGB Den Danske Kro Prikið 22:00 Live Music 21:00 Dj Anna Rakel & Ýr ONGOING Dubliner Salurinn, Kópavogur Restaurant Reykjavík 22:00 Live Music 20:00 Eve Cassidy Tribute - Jóhanna 20:00 Let's Talk Iceland: Comedy Show. English Pub Guðrún 3300 ISK 2200 ISK. Everyday 21:30 Live Music Thorvaldsen Iðnó Esja 20:00 Salsa Night 20:00 Cellophane Comedy show 23:30 Tapas & White Wine Night Trúnó Thursdays Faktóry 21:00 Surprise DJ 22:00 Motor City Drum Ensemble Music & Entertainment | Venue finder Grapevine Top 6 Most Played tracks during the making of this issue Amsterdam Dillon Næsti Bar Hafnarstræti 5 | D4 Laugavegur 30 | F7 Ingólfstræti 1A | E5 Austur Dubliner Óliver 1 GusGus Austurstræti 7 | E4 Hafnarstræti 4 | D4 Laugavegur 20A | F5 Within You B5 Esja Ölstofan Bankastræti 5 | E4 Austurstræti 16 | E4 Vegamótastígur | F5 2 Babalú English Pub Prikið FM Belfast Skólavörðustígur 22 | F5 Austurstræti 12 | E4 Bankastræti | E5 We Fall

Bakkus Faktorý Rósenberg Tryggvagata 22 | D4 Klapparstígur 25 | E6 3 Smiðjustígur 6 | E5 Ellý Vilhjálms Bar 11 Ölsmiðjan Sódóma Reykjavík Ég veit þú kemur Hverfisgötu 18 | E5 Lækjargata 10 | E4 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Barbara Sólon Hressó 4 Sepultura Laugavegur 22 | F5 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Bankastræti 7A | E5 Slaves Of Pain Bjarni Fel Bankinn Thorvaldsen Austurstræti 20 | E4 Hverfisgata 20 | E5 Austurstræti 8 | E4 Boston Kaffi Zimsen Trúnó 5 Mumford & Sons Laugavegur 28b | F6 Hafnarstræti 18 | D4 Laugavegur 22 | F5 Little Lion Man Café Paris Kaffibarinn Vegamót Austurstræti 14 | E4 Vegamótastígur 4 | F6 Bergstraðastræti 1 | E5 6 Fools Garden Celtic Cross NASA Vestur Hverfisgata 26 | E5 Tryggvagata 20 | D3 Lemon Tree Þorvaldsenstræti 2 | E3 Den Danske Kro Nýlenduvöruverzlun Hemma Ingólfsstræti 3 | F5 & Valda Laugavegur 21 | F5

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Hótel Holt · Bergstaðastræti 37 · 101 Reykjavík · 552 5700 · [email protected] · www.holt.is ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JUNE

Cocktail pleasures and An exhibition of Christmas cards, trees, us to shift our perspective in the way we Visual stimulation decorations, etc., in the Collectors’ see things corner Runs until June 4 Kjarvalsstaðir How to use the listings: Venues are listed Runs until June 30 Jóhannes S. Kjarval - Key Works alphabetically by day. For complete listings Connected Runs until January 15, 2012 and detailed information on venues visit Exhibition about the connection be- Jór! Horses in Icelandic Art www.grapevine.is tween people and technology Runs until August 21 Send us your listings: [email protected] Runs until June 24 'Þorrablót' Workshop Aðalheiður S. Eysteinsdóttir recreates Open and informative workshop for the scene in this traditional Icelandic children and families in connection with OPENINGS late-winter feast which takes its name the exhibition Jór! Horses in Icelandic Art. Make a reservation in advance by Gerðuberg Culture Center from the Old Norse month of Þorri (mid- email: [email protected] June 3 February to mid-March) and centres on Runs until August 21 Gagn og gaman food prepared in the old style Kling & Bang Exhibition of works produced by children Runs until June 19 Silent Room, Silver Room who took part in 'Gagn og gaman' craft Hafnarborg, Hafnarfjörður Collection of Claus Carstensen's newest and activity courses in the period 1988- Ingenuity mixed media painting 2004 Exhibit by Einar Thorsteinn Runs until June 26 Runs until 28 August Runs until June 19 Knitting Iceland Hafnarborg, Hafnarfjörður Life and Art Without Boundaries - Come and knit at Laugavegur 25, 3rd June 4 JBK Ransu and Guðrún Bergsdóttir floor 14:00 Bright Days - Treasure Hunt Part of the Art Without Boundaries Fes- Every Thursday, 14:00 - 18:00 June 4 tival, presenting the art of people with On permanent view 16:00 Bright Days - Sculpture Walk & disabilities and promoting collaboration The Living Art Museum Talk between disabled and non disabled Carl Boutard Tour around the centre of Hafnarfjörður artist An exhibition displaying Boutard's work, with a guide Runs until June 19 which is closely related to nature, sci- Hönnunarsafn Hafnarhús ence and language June 9 Erró - Collage Runs until July 3 Our Objects - from the Museum's Runs until August 21 Collection i8 Objects acquired by the Museum since Karin Sander Guestbook its opening in 1998 will be put on display Highly polished chicken eggs, reflecting in the exhibition area. Objects such as wallpieces, and machine-made preci- Icelandic and foreign furnitures, graphic sion miniature replicas of people invite Art listings continue after center spread ... design, textiles, ceramics, and glass, to name a few Runs until october 16 exhibitionONGOING Alliance Française Icelandic Fishermen - Fishing past and present A photography exhibit Runs until June 4 ÁSI Art Museum Harpa Árnadóttir The exhibition is a part of Reykjavik Art Festival 2011 Runs until June 12 C is for Cookie Clémence Floris This art exhibition by the 22 year old french photographer has a surrealist element to it. It is open Monday through Friday 9:00 - 20:00, Saturday and Sun- day 11:00 - 18:00 Runs until June 16 The Culture House Medieval Manuscripts - Eddas and Sagas Some of Iceland's medieval manuscripts on display. Open guided tour in English on Mondays & Fridays at 15:00. On permanent view Child of Hope - Youth and Jón Sig- urðsson Happy Birthday Bragi! Exploring the life of Icelandic national hero, Jón Sigurðsson, made especially Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstígur 14-16, accessible to children, families, and Runs until June 12 school groups Flora Islandica Free The publication Flora Islandica by Eggert Pétursson, with 271 real-size drawing of Famous Icelandic painter Bragi Ásgeirsson celebrates his 80th birthday with an flowers in Icelandic nature, is on display exhibition that displays sixty-nine of his works. There will be no clowns, no magi- The Library Room cians and no chocolate cakes, but visitors at Gallerí Fold will find a good sample of The old reading room of the National the peculiar and fascinating technique of Bragi, one of the most important artists Library. Displaying books of Icelandic in Iceland whose paintings leave no one indifferent. Don’t delay or you will have to cultural history dating from the 16th wait another year until Braga turns 81. That’s too much! JH century to today. Works include oldest published versions of the Sagas, Eddic Poems, and more On permanent view Gallerí Ágúst God Appeared to Me Painter and filmmaker Magnus Helgason exhibits his new paintings Runs until June 18 Gallerí Fold Best little Marta Rosolska Photography concert venue in Akureyri Runs until November 14 CONCERTS: Braga Ásgeirssonar - Birthday Exhi- bition Fri. 3. Jun. Bang Gang One of the most important painters in Sat. 4. Jun. Jon Jonsson Iceland, Braga Ásgeirssonar, turned Fri. 10. Jun. Dundurfrettir/Classic Rock Tribute 80 years old on Saturday May 28. To Thu. 16. Jun. Andrea´s Bluesmen celebrate his Birthday, an exhibition of Sat. 18. Jun. Eivør 69 works will be showcased Sun. 19. Jun. Eivør Runs until June 12 Gerðarsafn, Kópavogur Art Mu- seum Barböru Árnason Exhibition 250 works by Barböru Árnason are on display, as well as illustrated books, Christmas Cards, and other things deco- rated by the painter. Her works focus mainly on Icelandic history. Admission: THE GREENGREEN HAT 500 ISK, Free on Wednesdays AKUREYRI Runs until June 5 For further informations Gerðuberg on upcoming events and concerts go to: Christmas is coming... www.facebook.com/graenihatturinn OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK IN JUNE

OUTSIDE MUSIC 10 12 June June 3 |FRI Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri 22:00 Bang Gang concert

4 |SAT Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri 22:00 Jón Jónsson concert

9 |THU Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri 21:00 Rögnvaldur Gáfaði & Gísli Einarsson SKJALDBORG FILM FESTIVAL 2011 Skjaldborgarbíó, Patreksfjörður June 10 - 12 10 Do You Like Fish? |FRI Free Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri Fjöruhúsið in Hellnar (Snæfellsnes 20:00 Hárið (Musical), 3950 ISK Peninsula) Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri Documentary enthusiasts and film- Runs until June 30 makers rejoice! The Skjaldborg Film 22:00 Dúndurfréttir 'Best of Free Concert' Festival has come around again for its fifth year. Go to the festival’s hometown The idea of a circus full of strange fish of Patreksfjörður in the Westfjords for may have you thinking of a new Tim the screenings of twenty brand-new 11 Burton flick. Yet, ‘Fiskur Sirkus’ has |SAT Icelandic documentaries (including GV Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri nothing to do with it. It’s actually an scribe Haukur Már Helgason’s docu- 20:00 Hárið (Musical), 3950 ISK awesome exhibition by Spanish artist mentary on the RVK9, ‘Ge9n’)—stay TEN THOUSAND FINGERS Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri Eduardo Perez Baca, who after falling for the legendary partying. The films 01:00 Dúndurfréttir 'Best of in love with an Icelander, moved from shown over the festival’s three days Concert' his native Granada to Reykjavik many are documentaries that you might not More than ten thousand fingers have years ago. Since then, he has devoted get a chance to see in Reykjavík, so do played beautiful music on this piano, since much of his time to capturing his vision take the chance. Skjaldborg looks to it arrived in Eyrarbakki village in 1871. It 16 of Iceland in his magic drawings. In |thu respect documentaries of all kinds by was brought across the Atlantic on a large Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri this case, ‘Fiskur Sirkus’ is a collection giving them an audience. In the end, merchantman, then hauled into a small 20:30 Útgáfutónleikar Bubba of hand drawn postcards featuring the the top film will be chosen by viewers Morthens & Sólskugganna local marine fauna. JH fishing boat and rowed ashore, where four 3900 ISK like you. SAT strong men carried it into the village in a terrible rainstorm. But you can touch it Ghosts and spirits of the South Pompei of the North, Westman now in the Húsið museum in Eyrarbakki. OUTSIDE ART OPENINGS Guided tour for groups -of ten people Islands or more- through the lowlands south of Excavations project at the site of 1973 Selfoss where many a ghost, spirit and volcanic eruption on the island of Hei- Akureyri Art Museum other spiritual beings live maey June 3 The Icelandic Settlement Centre, Reykjanes Art Museum, Reykjanes- Within the Rose - Retrospective Borgarnes bær Exhibition of paints created by awarded The Settlement Exhibition On permanent view artist Kristín Gunnlaugsdóttir It tells how Viking sailors left Norway Safnahús Museum, Westman Runs until June 26 and settled in Iceland Islands Viking Village, Hafnarfjordur The Egils Saga Exhibition This museum has mounted birds & fish, June 16 The exhibition concentrates in one of the an aquarium, as well as a variety of 16:00 Viking Festival 2011 most famous of all the rocks and minerals on display At the Viking Festival 2011 you are trans- saga heroes, Egil Skaftfell Open May 15th - Sept. 15th: 11 - 18. Other times by arrangement. | www.husid.com ported back to the time of vikings. There Laxness Museum, Mosfellsdalur New exhibition opens on June 17 will be music, crafts, archery, and viking Gljúfrasteinn was the home and work- Sláturhúsið cuisine place of Halldór Laxness (winner of the Concert June 11. Check for updates Runs until June 20 Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955) at slaturhusid.is Skjaldborgarbíó, Patreksfjörður On permanent view Suðuðvestur (Keflavik) June 10 LÁ Art, Hvergerði Slíður (the heart is a lonely hunter) Skaldborg Film Festival Images of Þingvellir from various artists. Collection of enigmatic 3D works by Twenty new Icelandic Documentaries Runs until August 21. artist icelandic Margaret H. Blondal will be on display. A chance for docu- Runs until June 5 mentary enthusiasts and filmmakers to come together. At the end of the festival, the best documentary at the festival will Outside Reykjavík | Venue finder be chosen by viewers Runs until June 12 Keflavík Egilsstaðir Suðsuðvestur Græni Hatturinn Sláturhúsið exhibition www.sudsudvestur.is Hafnarstræti 96 www.slaturhusid.is Hafnargata 22 600 Akureyri Kaupvangi 7 OUTSIDE ONGOING ART 230 Reykjanesbær 461-4646 700 Egilsstaðir 421-2225 470-0692 Restaurant in the oldest Kunstraum Wohnraum Fjöruhúsið, Hellnar (Snæfellsnes Borgarnes Ásabyggð 2 Seyðisfjörður house in Akureyri Peninsula) The Icelandic Settlement Centre 600 Akureyri Skaftfell Fiskur Sirkur www.landnam.is www.skaftfell.is Hafnarstræti 11, Collection of Spaniard Eduardo Perez Brákarbraut 13-15 Mývatn Austurvegur 42 Baca's paintings 310 Borgarnes Mývatnsstofa 710 Seyðisfjörður telephone: 461-2900 437-1600 Hraunvegi 8 472-1632 Runs until June 30 660 Mývatn [email protected] Gamli Baukur, Húsavík Stykkishólmur 464-4390 Hveragerði 15:30 Comedy show about Iceland Vatnasafnið / Library of Water www.visitmyvatn.is LÁ Art Everyday www.libraryofwater.is www.listasafnarnesinga.is The Ghost Centre, Stokkseyri Austurmörk 21 Night at the Ghost Museum Akureyri 210 Hveragerði Akureyri Art Museum 483-1727 Do you feel like a scary night in the Fish- www.listasafn.akureyri.is erman’s hut inside the Ghost Centre? Kaupvangsstræti 12 Only for brave people! 600 Akureyri 461 2610 HÓLMASLÓÐ

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Viðey MAPMAP ferry Places We Like A KLETTAGARÐAR FISKISLÓÐ Cruise 1 Borgarhjól harbour Hverfisgata 50 GRANDAGARÐUR For those that want to soak up the city The Fishpacking District sights and surrounding countryside at a Maritime more leisurely pace, then you should really Museum Sigurjón KLETTAGARÐAR check this place out. Its a really old school Art Museum bike shop that mends as well as rents out B bikes, and at really reasonable rate too. The They also sell helmets, safety gear and Old VESTURGARÐAR accessories if you really want to go all out. Harbour ÁNANAUST MÝRARGATA Old Harbour Area 2 NÝLENDUGATA Café d’Haiti 2 SÆBRAUT KLEPPSVEGUR Geirsgata 7b/Verbúð 2 HOLTSGATA

The first time I entered this exotic little joint, C FRAMNESVEGUR EIÐSGRANDI RÁNARGATA meaning to buy myself a take-away espresso, VESTURGATA 7 Harpa SUNDABORG I ended up with two kilos of fresh and GEIRSGATA Concert GRANDAVEGUR BÁRUGATA Hall roasted coffee beans due to some language Reykjavík complications and way too much politeness. KIRKJUSANDUR HRINGBRAUT ÖLDUGATA Art KLEPPSVEGUR Since then I have enjoyed probably way-too- Museu18m BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR many wonderful cups of Haitian coffee, but ÆGISGATA Down Main TRYGGVAGATA they’re alwaysÁLAGRANDI as nice, so the two kilos were Tourist 9 definitely worth it. Info Town The SÓLVALLAGATAHÁVALLAGATA 16 Central 17 Bank SÖLVHÓLSGATA GARÐASTRÆTI HAFNAR LAUGALÆKUR D ÁSVALLAGATA TÚNGATA STRÆTI SKÚLAGATASÆBRAUT DALBRAUT VATNAGARÐAR 3 Deli The AUSTURSTRÆTI Culture Austur House Bankastræti 14 National AÐALSTRÆTI völlur Theatre MEISTARAVELLIR 13 KIRKJUSTRÆTIPark Getting a good slice of pizza on the go can BANKASTRÆTI6 LINDARGATA be an utter ordeal. If you’re not careful, you’ll 3 HVERFISGATA BRÚNAVEGUR Icelandic SUNDLAUGAVEGUR frequently wind up paying good money for a SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament PÓSTH.STRÆTI SÆBRAUT AMTM.ST. cardboardy wafer that has been sitting in a VONARSTRÆTI 19 8 SÆTÚN LAUGARNESVEGUR heater box for a week. Not at Deli, however. LÆKJARGATA 12 KLAPPARSTÍGUR “Financial KAPLASKJÓLSVEGUR Taxi Their slices are consistently awesome and LAUGAVEGUR Laugardals E BÓKHL.ST. HRAUNTEIGUR Swimming fresh, the topping selection is intriguing and REYNIMELUR HRINGBRAUT City 11 BORGARTÚN Pool 5 VATNSSTÍGUR District”

tasteful and, best of all, they’re really cheap. Hall Up AUSTURBRÚN VESTURBRÚN VÍÐIMELUR SUÐURGATA HRÍSATEIGUR Vesturbæjar ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTIINGÓLFSSTRÆTI HOFSVALLAGATA KIRKJUTEIGUR Swimming SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR Pool GRENIMELUR TJARNARGATA Town LAUGARÁSVEGUR The Camping 4 site Dillon Rock Bar VEGUR Tower HAGAMELUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI SÓLTÚN City 15 LAUGAVEGUR KAMBSVEGUR Laugavegur 30 Pond GRETTISGATA SKÚLAGATA HOFTEIGUR

LAUFÁS HJALLAVEGUR MELHAGI Hlemmur ESPIMELUR NÓATÚN HÖFÐATÚN Dillon lives up to its full name and is not FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR LOKASTÍGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR ÓÐINSGATA Bus REYKJAVEGUR known to mess around with house or elec- F National ÞÓRSGATA Terminal LANGHOLTSVEGUR MIÐTÚN LAUGATEIGUR Gallery GRUNDARSTÍGUR Taxi tronica. Led Zeppelin, Iron Maiden and Black VITASTÍGUR HÓLSVEGUR EFSTASUND SKOTHÚSVEGUR of Iceland NJÁLSGATA Laugardalur Sabbath are what you'llNESHAGI often hear, along FURUMELUR HÁTÚN with more local and recent spin-offs as well BARÓNSSTÍGUR BERGÞÓRUGATA SNORRABRAUT SIGTÚN as the odd live show. And if you have other BIRKIMELUR Hallgríms BALDURSGATA requests, they are accepted and considered National kirkja library Church LAUGAVEGUR HÁTÚN DYNGJUVEGUR by residentKVISTHAGI DJ, Amma Rokksins,We Iceland's st SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT grandmother of rock, still spinning her stuff FREYJUGATA BRAGAGATA KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT on Saturday nights. NJARÐARGATA The Einar Side National Jónsson museum Museum G Sundhöllin 5 FJÖLNISVEGUR SKIPHOLT ENGJAVEGUR Eymundsson Bookstore Swimming RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR SUNNUVEGUR Pool ENGJATEIGUR FORNHAGI BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI Skólavörðustígur 11 Hljómskáli EGILSGATA EIRÍKSGATABARÓNSSTÍGUR ÆGISÍÐA HJARÐARHAGI Park SKIPHOLT Zoo and Eymundsson is a chain with several outlets HRINGBRAUT family park but the one on Skólavörðustígur is the best University NÓATÚN HALLARMÚLI of Iceland LAUFÁSVEGUR in town. Housed on the ground floor of what DUNHAGI Laugardalshöll SKIPASUND was once a Spron Credit Union, the building Sports hall SÆMUNDARGATA has a solid 60’s institutional feeling—cosy if HÁTEIGSVEGUR SNORRABRAUT that’s your bag. The premises are equipped H East HOLTAVEGUR EFSTASUND with a coffee shop, tables and sofas to GUNNARSBRAUT LANGHOLTSVEGUR TÓMASARHAGI LÁGMÚLI lounge in and the all-glass exterior lets in STURLUAGATA Nordic House ÁRMÚLI Culture Center FLÓKAGATA VATNSMÝRARVEGUR Side a lot of light, which is good for reading real ENGJAVEGUR books, not Facebooks. This Eymundsson FÁ 8 9 10 LKAGATALitla Jólabúðin Nonnabiti Núðluhúsið GAMLA HRINGBRAUT also regularly hosts book readings, signings Laugavegur 8 Hafnarstræti 9 Laugavegur 59 Kjarvalsstaðir and other small events such as concerts and RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR National Taxi BSÍ Museum art exhibitions, organized in a pleasantly Christmas store run year round. Established Delicious and relatively cheap considering Although hardly breaking new ground ARAGATA Coach SUÐURLANDSBRAUT Kaffitár and laid back way. in a backyard on the little residential street how massive and fillingNJARÐARGATA their sandwiches in Thai cuisine, NúðluhúsiðTerm is inala safe ODDAGATA ÚTHLÍÐ of Grundarstígur in 2002, Litla Jólabúðin are. The Luxury Sub, with salty pork, bet for a cheap, generously portioned, Klambratún moved to Laugavegur a few years ago, but Park STAKKAHLÍÐ ÝRARBRAUT 6 EGGERTSGATA veggies, sauce and pineapple is a brilliant tasty enough meal. You can expect fresh Kaffitár LYNGHAGI maintains a mom-and-pop store kind of combination of flavours for late-night ingredients and fast, courteous service. So ÁRMÚLI feeling. Akureyri has Jólagarðurinn, Reykjavík BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ munchies. It’s just as satisfying and filling if you're wondering which of the many Thai LANGAHLÍÐ Bankastræti 8 SÍÐUMÚLI has Jólabúðin. MIKLABRAUT HÁALEITISBRAUT during more civilized hours as well. And the restaurants to choose from on a low budget, HRINGBRAUT Kaffitár on Bankastræti is a comfortableSTARHAGI KRINGLUM service is fast if you’re in a rush. we recommend Núðluhúsið. ÁLFHEIMAR little café with a great selection of coffee, SKAFTAHLÍÐ tea and baked goods on offer. Since Kaffitár ÁLFTAMÝRI GOÐHEIMAR

14 15 16 NAUTHÓLSVEGUR is also a big-name Icelandic roasterie the Mai Thai Babalú Habibi caffeinated beverages on the menu are Skólavörðustígur 22 SAFAMÝRI Laugavegur 118 Hafnarstræti 18 ESKIHLÍÐ SÓLHEIMAR quality. The wi-fi makes this a nice place to SKÓGARHLÍÐ BARMAHLÍÐ Located on the second-floor of a quirky little BÚSTAÐAVEGUR sit and chill with your laptop as well. Located across from Hlemmur Bus Station, This small restaurant offers up a concise Mai Thai imports and sells all sorts of building on Skólavörðustígur, Babalú is an menu of delicious Arabic cuisine, from REYKJAHLÍÐ MIKLABRAUT products from South East Asia, particularly inviting, quaint and cosy café serving up a shawarma to kebabs and falafels. The MÁVAHLÍÐ Thailand and the Philippines. Depending on selection of tea, coffee and hot chocolate staff is really friendly and accommodating 7 Krua Thai STIGAHLÍÐ LJÓSHEIMAR the day,ÞORRAGATA you might find fresh coriander, mint, along with delicious baked goods and of requests to kick up the spiciness or Tryggavagötu 14 DRÁPUHLÍÐ chilies, bean sprouts, exotic fruits such as light meals. Food and drink aside, Babalú tone it down if the customer so desires. GNOÐARVOGUR This is the best affordable Thai food on offer Durian, Carambola or Coconut, as well as boasts colourfully decorated and super- Habibi seriously hits the spot after hours in Reykjavík. Rice is always fluffy, the spicy year round products such as frozen spring comfortable surroundings and a genuinely of partying (or any other time of day) so it’s SKEIFAN Reykjavík BLÖNDUHLÍÐ STAKKAHLÍÐ GRÆNAHLÍÐ kick is just right and the spring rolls are rolls, various kinds of rice sold in bulk bags, friendlyDomestic and likeable staff.Ta xi convenient that the place is open until 6 a.m. always crispy cylinders of deliciousness. The sauces and spices galore, egg and rice Airport Friday and Saturday. servings are hearty too, so you’re bound to noodles, Asian snacks, clothes and other MIKLABRAUT FELLSMÚLI leave satisfied. knick-knacks. In short, a wide array of what FLUGVALLARVEGUR GRENSÁSVEGUR are still considered rare and exotic treats in Reykjavík. HAMRAHLÍÐ Kringlan Shopping HÖRGSHLÍÐ Mall EINARSNES

HÁAHLÍÐ

BÚSTAÐAVEGUR

STIGAHLÍÐ

BAUGANES Hótel Loftleiðir

SKILDINGANES Perlan LISTABRAUT

OFANLEITI

Öskjuhlíð KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT MENNTAVEGUR

VESTURHLÍÐ

SUÐURHLÍÐ

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR

University of Reykjavík

Nauthólsvík HÓLMASLÓÐ

6 7 8 9 10 A DAY IN THE LIFE Nanna Árnadóttir For a map of outside downtown Reykjavík NEW IN TOWN Viðey visit www.grapevine.is or the Icelandic What’s up, Nanna? ferry phonebook website www.ja.is Víkingakráin Hafnarstræti 1, 101 Reykjavík Workin’ my merkin to the ground, man (disclaimer: I don’t have KLETTAGARÐAR FISKISLÓÐ If you have an iPhone, check out the cool Cruise Locatify app in the AppStore. It´s got a FREE a merkin). Got my day job, harbour guided audio tour of the downtown area, my freelance work and doing courtesy of your pals at Grapevine. Ask for a Tax free form and GRANDAGARÐUR rewrites for my debut novel The Fishpacking District cum tourist manual, ‘Zombie save up to 15% Maritime Museum Iceland’, at night. It’s about a Sigurjón KLETTAGARÐAR group of misfits surviving a Art Museum The zombie outbreak in Reykjavík, all the while explaining Icelandic Old VESTURGARÐAR Harbour culture and history in footnotes ÁNANAUST This establishment’s proprietors really go the and featuring Icelandic music in a MÝRARGATA Old Harbour distance when it comes to the Viking theme. Zombie Apocalypse playlist. Area They don’t stop at the way the waitresses are NÝLENDUGATA dressed, but go on to the restaurant’s architec- SÆBRAUT ture and its fixtures, such as the boat on display EARLY MORNING > Well after I’ve tended to my KLEPPSVEGUR HOLTSGATA (!). The menu even sticks to the Viking theme merkin, only joking I still don’t as firmly as possible, offering food such as fish FRAMNESVEGUR have a merkin. Why do I keep EIÐSGRANDI RÁNARGATA soup, lamb with vegetables and potatoes; they VESTURGATA Harpa talking about merkins? I want to SUNDABORG GEIRSGATA Concert even have vegetarian options for those Vikings GRANDAVEGUR BÁRUGATA Hall who prefer not to indulge in the pleasures of say that I run down Ægissíða so Reykjavík cooked flesh. If you’re planning on just going I’m in shape for a major world- KIRKJUSANDUR HRINGBRAUT ÖLDUGATA Art out for a drink, Víkingakráin has you covered ending event, but since I learned KLEPPSVEGUR Museum BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR there as well with their Viking bar, which won’t ÆGISGATA Main Down how to use a gun I’ve gotten lazy. ÁLAGRANDI TRYGGVAGATA Tourist make you delve any further into your bank ac- Usually I’m cross stitching at Info Town The count than most other bars in Reykjavík. Might SÓLVALLAGATAHÁVALLAGATA Central Tíu Dropar drinking coffee and Bank SÖLVHÓLSGATA be a fine stop for those who just arrived in GARÐASTRÆTI HAFNAR LAUGALÆKUR ÁSVALLAGATA Reykjavík and want to get their first taste of the eating a pancake with whipped TÚNGATA STRÆTI SKÚLAGATASÆBRAUT DALBRAUT VATNAGARÐAR The Viking way of life. cream and rhubarb jam. AUSTURSTRÆTI Culture Austur House National AÐALSTRÆTI völlur Theatre MEISTARAVELLIR Well I have extravagant and KIRKJUSTRÆTIPark LUNCH > BANKASTRÆTI LINDARGATA HVERFISGATA sophisticated tastes so I like to BRÚNAVEGUR Icelandic eat at Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar, SUNDLAUGAVEGUR SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament PÓSTH.STRÆTI 1 SÆBRAUT VONARSTRÆTI AMTM.ST. it coats my skin in meat love LÆKJARGATA SÆTÚN LAUGARNESVEGUR KLAPPARSTÍGUR “Financial KAPLASKJÓLSVEGUR and the coffee shake makes my Taxi LAUGAVEGUR Laugardals BÓKHL.ST. HRAUNTEIGUR 4 thighs sweat. Swimming REYNIMELUR HRINGBRAUT City BORGARTÚN Pool

Hall VATNSSTÍGUR Distri ct” Up AUSTURBRÚN VESTURBRÚN VÍÐIMELUR SUÐURGATA HRÍSATEIGUR Vesturbæjar ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTIINGÓLFSSTRÆTI Petting cats that pass me on HOFSVALLAGATA 10 MID-DAY > KIRKJUTEIGUR Swimming SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR Pool GRENIMELUR TJARNARGATA Town the street. The nicest cats to LAUGARÁSVEGUR The Camping pet in Reykjavík usually live in site VEGUR Tower HAGAMELUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI SÓLTÚN City LAUGAVEGUR Vesturbær, also, cats outnumber KAMBSVEGUR Pond GRETTISGATA SKÚLAGATA humans 12 to 1 in Vesturbær (I HOFTEIGUR

LAUFÁS HJALLAVEGUR MELHAGI Hlemmur ESPIMELUR NÓATÚN HÖFÐATÚN FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR LOKASTÍGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR ÓÐINSGATA Bus have no factual data to back this REYKJAVEGUR National ÞÓRSGATA Terminal LANGHOLTSVEGUR MIÐTÚNclaim). LAUGATEIGUR Gallery GRUNDARSTÍGUR 14 Taxi VITASTÍGUR HÓLSVEGUR EFSTASUND SKOTHÚSVEGUR of Iceland NJÁLSGATA Laugardalur NESHAGI FURUMELUR HÁTÚN Skulking around Nexus, the BARÓNSSTÍGUR AFTERNOON > BERGÞÓRUGATA SNORRABRAUT SIGTÚN BIRKIMELUR Hallgríms dark and dingy underbelly of National BALDURSGATA kirkja library Church LAUGAVEGUR Reykjavík’sHÁTÚN nerd community, DYNGJUVEGUR KVISTHAGI West SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT where you can admire Star FREYJUGATA BRAGAGATA KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT NJARÐARGATA The Einar Wars paraphernalia, peruse Side National Jónsson graphic novels and potentially museum Museum Sundhöllin FJÖLNISVEGUR SKIPHOLT embarrassing fantasy erotica, not ENGJAVEGUR Swimming RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR SUNNUVEGUR Pool that I would know anything about ENGJATEIGUR FORNHAGI BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI Hljómskáli EGILSGATA EIRÍKSGATABARÓNSSTÍGUR that. ÆGISÍÐA HJARÐARHAGI Park SKIPHOLT Zoo and HRINGBRAUT family park University NÓATÚN HALLARMÚLI of Iceland LAUFÁSVEGUR I don’t usually go out because I’m HEAT OF THE NIGHT > Laugardalshöll DUNHAGI a loser and spend most nights Sports hall SKIPASUND SÆMUNDARGATA HÁTEIGSVEGUR watching old B rated horror SNORRABRAUT East films with my pabbi (dad) or HOLTAVEGUR EFSTASUND GUNNARSBRAUT LANGHOLTSVEGUR TÓMASARHAGI STURLUAGATA Nordic House discussing Seinfeld while we lookLÁGMÚLI ÁRMÚLI Culture Center FLÓKAGATA VATNSMÝRARVEGUR Side at underground bunkers online. ENGJAVEGUR FÁ 11 Café Óliver 12 Kaffifélagið 13 OSUSHI When I do go out though, I go LKAGATA GAMLA HRINGBRAUT Laugavegur 20a Skólavörðustíg 10 Kjarvalsstaðir Lækjargata 2a to Bakkus because it smells like RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR National secrets. Taxi BSÍ If you like trendy party-types who dance Kaffifélagið has been a MuseuGrapevinem favourite Great place to satisfy your craving for raw ARAGATA Coach SUÐURLANDSBRAUT NJARÐARGATA Terminal like crazy to a lively mix of music where since they opened on Skólavörðustígur a fish and vinegar rice. The selection on ‘the ODDAGATA ÚTHLÍÐ glamour is all that counts, the stylish Óliver couple of years back.Klambr The smallatún coffeehouse train’ is wide and varied and the atmosphere EGGERTSGATA is the nightclub for you. Check out Óliver's always delivers an Parkexcellent cup of Italian- is relaxed. Also, the colour-codedSTAKKAHLÍÐ plates ÝRARBRAUT LYNGHAGI live karaoke nights on Tuesdays. If you don't style coffee, and downtown regulars can make it easy to keep tabs on your budget ÁRMÚLI BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ suffer from stage fright you can go on stage spring for a clip-off coffee card to save on LANGAHLÍÐ while scarfing down your maki and nigiri. SÍÐUMÚLI MIKLABRAUT HÁALEITISBRAUT HRINGBRAUTand sing your favourite song accompanied each purchase. STARHAGI KRINGLUM by the local troubadour. ÁLFHEIMAR SKAFTAHLÍÐ

ÁLFTAMÝRI GOÐHEIMAR

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR 17 Austur 18 Kolaportið 19 Den Danske Kro

SAFAMÝRI

Austurstræti 7 ESKIHLÍÐTryggvagata 19 Ingólfsstræti 3 SÓLHEIMAR SKÓGARHLÍÐ BARMAHLÍÐ Sleek and shiny, this newBÚSTAÐAVEGUR restaurant and Reykjavík’s massive flea market is a The Danish Bar is located on Ingólfsstræti,

bar is a straight-up boutique hot spot for wonderful REYKJAHLÍÐplace to get lost for a few hours, just off Laugavegur where Q Bar once stood. MIKLABRAUT stylish kids and trendy professionals alike. rummaging through stall uponMÁVAHLÍÐ stall of The bar serves up Danish favourites, such as Appropriate for formal business meetings potential treasures. There are heaps of used open-face smørrebrød sandwiches,STIGAHLÍÐ Danish LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA but casual enough for the roll-out-bed-at- clothing, knitwear and other yard-sale type Tuborg beer and Akvavit schnapps. DRÁPUHLÍÐ 5pm crowd, they serve up ample, satisfying, goods from decades of yore, and a large How to ask for a large beer in Danish: “Hej, GNOÐARVOGUR modern dishes at reasonable prices. This food section with fish, meats and baked jeg vil gerne have en stor øl, tak”. is also one of the rare places to get a full goods. Check out the vintage post cards and SKEIFAN Reykjavík BLÖNDUHLÍÐ STAKKAHLÍÐ GRÆNAHLÍÐ Domestic Taxi breakfast all day long! It’s really fucking prints at the table near the army surplus. LAUGAVEGUR 56 Airport good too. 101 REYKJAVÍK MIKLABRAUT WWW.NIKITACLOTHING.COM FELLSMÚLI FLUGVALLARVEGUR GRENSÁSVEGUR

HAMRAHLÍÐ Kringlan Shopping HÖRGSHLÍÐ Mall EINARSNES

HÁAHLÍÐ

BÚSTAÐAVEGUR

STIGAHLÍÐ

BAUGANES Hótel Loftleiðir

SKILDINGANES Perlan LISTABRAUT

OFANLEITI

Öskjuhlíð KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT MENNTAVEGUR

VESTURHLÍÐ

SUÐURHLÍÐ

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR

University of Reykjavík

Nauthólsvík the ART lobster GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JUNE house Ljósmyndaskólinn (School of Pho- tography) Student Photography Exhibition Humarhúsið Annual exhibition of student photog- RESTAURANT raphy by the School of Photography in Reykjavik. Opening Hours: Saturdays: 15:00 - 20:00, Sundays: 14:00 - 18:00, Weekdays: 14:00 - 18:00. The school is Lunch located at Hólmaslóð 6, Reykjavik 101 Runs until June 5 The Lost Horse Gallery, Hverfisgötu 71 Viðundrin (The Wonderous World of Cream of lobster soup 1490.- the Wewonders) Garlic roasted lobster An exhibition of old and new collec- tions of the artist group Þiðundrin (The Lobster & escargot “ragout” 1590.- Youwonders). Artists Ninna Þórarinsdót- Mushrooms, garlic tir, Inga María Brynjarsdóttir and Þórey Mjallhvít H. Ómarsdóttir make up the Whale “sashimi” dip sauce 1290.- group Mushrooms, herbs, ginger, red beets Runs until June 17 Mokka Kaffi Lobster “maki” 1590.- The Enigmatic World Of Carstensen Edda Guðmundsdóttur - "Seasons Avocado, mango, cucumber, chilli mayo Exhibition" Kling & Bang gallery The paintings in this exhibition were Lobster salad 1490.- Runs until June 26 painted between 2006 and 2011. Edda's works are inspired by the seasons Rucola, pumpkin seeds, fruit chutney Free Runs until June 23 National Gallery of Iceland Vegetarian The new collection by Danish artist Claus Carstensen has arrived to Reykjavik. His Femme - Louise Bourgeois BANKASTRÆTI mix of techniques creates an impressive body of work that combines paintings Veggie steak 1790.- 28 works by Louise Bourgeois, principal- Red beets, potatoes, parsnip and collages that surely won’t disappoint visitors. The ‘Silent Room, Silver Room’ ly installations or “cells” and sculptures, exhibition shows some of these surreal and enigmatic works that have become a but also paintings, drawings and textiles trademark of Cartensen’s style, mesmerising the observer. This is an exhibit that Runs until September 11 Fish shouldn’t be missed, so hurry to Kling & Bang before June 26. JH Strides Catch of the day 1990.- Changes in Icelandic painting from the Please ask your waiter late 1800s to the 2000s Runs until December 31, 2012 4890.- 4 The National Museum Lobster grill June AMTMANNSSTÍGUR1 Photography of Bárður Sigurðsson 200 gr. lobster, horseradish, Photographs from the Mývatn Area at LÆKJARGATA salad SKÓLASTRÆTI the beginning of the 20th century Runs until June 8 Deserts BE YE WELCOME, MY GOOD FRIENDS! Chocolate “2 ways” 990.- Collection of carved Nordic drinking Junior Reykjavik White and dark chocolade, fruits College horns Runs until December 31 “Lazy-daisy” 990.- Carved Coffers Coconut, yoghurt From the collection of the National Located in Central Reykjavik Museum Amtmannsstíg 1 · 101 Reykjavík · Tel: 561 3303 Runs until August 31 Make Do and Mend [email protected] Repaired objects from the collection of

High Five For Hyphae (Pronounced Hi-Fa) Bakkus, Tryggvagata 22 4 June 4, 21:30 June Free

A new way of “going” to shows may be upon us. At the Korzo theatre in The Hague (Netherlands) they will be live-streaming a concert broadcast from Reykjavík’s very own Bakkus. The show can also be seen from your very own computer via http://hyphae.nl. This is the very first Hyphae show, and they hope to continue this venture in the future by broadcasting shows live not only from proper venues, but also from live parties, or even the musicians’ own homes. The artists performing at Bakkus will also be able to see the audience at The Hague, while the audience is viewing them. A cool, new way of seeing concerts worth being a part of. And you get to view it live. Live live. Like…in person. Line up: Skurken, Tonk, Beatmakin Troopa, Orang Volta, Plat, Steve Sampling, Murya, and Futuregrapher. SAT Art | Venue finder

ART67 Gallery Kling & Bang Nútimalist Galleria Laugavegur 67 | F7 Hverfisgata 42 | E5 Skólavörðustígur 3a | E5 Mon - Fri 12 - 18 / Sat Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Restaurant Reykjavík 12 - 16 this.is/klingogbang/ Vesturgata 2 | D3 Artótek Reykjavík 871+/-2 Tryggvagata 15 | D4 Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Gerðuberg 3-5 Aðalstræti 17 | D3 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri Open daily 10–17 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/ Thu–Fri 11–17 / Sat–Sun 13–16 Reykjavík Art Gallery Artotek www.gerduberg.is Skúlagata 28 | D6 Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 ASÍ Art Museum Hitt Húsið Freyugata 41 | G6 – Gallery Tukt Reykjavík Art Museum JUST SKATE—NO BULLSHIT Tue–Sun 13–17 Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E4 Open daily 10–16 www.hitthusid.is www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Fífan Skatepark, Dalsmári 5, Kópavogur Árbæjarsafn Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculp- Kistuhylur 4 i8 Gallery ture Museum Sigtún June 4, 14:00 Enjoy The Culture House Tryggvagata 16 | D3 Hafnarhús Tryggvagata 17 | D3 Hverfisgata 15 | E5 Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and Kjarvalsstaðir Flókagata | I7 Free by appointment. www.i8.is Open daily 11–17 Reykjavík Maritime Museum www.thjodmenning.is Living Art Museum Grandagarður 8 | B2 Are you a skater? Do you like to skate? dining out Dwarf Gallery Skúlagata 28 | D6 Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu Reykjavík Museum of Or are you maybe one of those folks Grundarstígur 21 | F4 Photography Opening Hours: Fri and Sat 13–22. www.nylo.is that always dreamed of being able to Tryggvagata 16 | D3 skate gracefully through the streets like 18–20 Hafnarborg Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun covers the ambiance, food and location www.this.is/birta/dwarfgallery Strandgötu 34, 13–17 - www.ljosmyndasafn- a young Tony Hawk, Rodney Mullen Enjoy Hafnarfjörður of 32 restaurants in Reykjavík The Einar Jónsson reykjavikur.is or Mimi Knoop and thus really enjoy Eiriksgata | G5 Mokka Kaffi Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum watching skaters doing their thang Tue–Sun 14–17 Skólavörðustíg 3A | E5 Laugarnestangi 70 www.skulptur.is while mourning your faded youth? Seafood, steakhouses, vegetarian, innovative The National Gallery of SÍM, The Association of Well, if you fall into any of the above Gallery Ágúst Iceland Icelandic Artists categories, we’ve got just the thing cuisine and more . . . Baldursgata 12 | G4 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F4 Mon-Fri 10-16 Wed–Sat 12–17 Tue–Sun 11–17 Hafnarstræti 16 | D4 for you. This Saturday, some of www.galleriagust.is www.listasafn.is Spark, Design Space Reykjavík’s finest will compete at the Gallery Fold The National Klapparstíg 33 | F5 JUST SKATE...NO BULLSHIT skating Rauðarástígur 14-16 | G8 Museum www.sparkdesignspace.com tournament at the Fífan skatepark in Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / Suðurgata 41 | G2 Sun 14–16 Open daily 10–17 Kópavogur. Burgers, fries, nice music, www.myndlist.is natmus.is awesome prizes and excellent skat- www.salka.is Gallery Kaolin The Nordic House ing—they’ve got it all (except there’s no Ingólfsstræti 8 | F4 Sturlugata 5 bullshit, remember that)! Tue–Sun 12–17 www.nordice.is/ So see y’all there! HSM ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JUNE

I Wonder, You Wonder, We Wonder For The YouWonders! The Lost Horse Gallery, Hverfisgata 71 Runs until June 17 Free

There is a world, a wondrous world that not many are aware of where Wewonders roam. A few, brave artists have tried to recreate these creatures through sculpting, drawing, and other means. These artists call themselves Þiðundrin, or the You- Wonders. The Youwonders, which is comprised of artists Ninna Þórarinsdóttir, Inga María Brynjarsdóttir and Þórey Mjallhvít H. Ómarsdóttir, do their best to recreate these creatures that are drawn up by the human imagination. You can find these attempts at the Lost Horse Gallery, at an exhibition entitled ‘The Wondrous World of the Wewonders’ between 14:00 and 17:00 every day except Monday. It would be wise to call ahead to make sure the exhibit is open, call: 868-6087. SAT

the National Museum at the turn of the 20th century 20:00 ICE-SAR Runs until September 1 On permanent view 22:00 Mr. Bjarnfredarson Don't Touch the Ground The History of Sailing Monday June 6 Exhibition on the games of 10 year old Iceland's maritime history and the 18:00 Dis children growth of the Reykjavík Harbour 20:00 Back Soon Runs until July 24 On permanent view 22:00 Astropia The Nordic House The Coast Guard Vessel Óðinn Tuesday June 7 The Library Display of vessel that took part in all 18:00 The Quiet Storm The collection centres on new Nordic three Cod Wars 20:00 101 Reykjavík literature, both fiction and non-fiction. On permanent view 22:00 ShanghaaingDays The library lends out novels, academic Reykjavík Museum of Photography publications, audio books and more Valdís Thor Wednesday June 8 On permanent view 100 photographs on display 18:00 Remote Control Open Spaces Runs until June 29 20:00 Dreamland Young artists from Nordic countries final Reykjavík Citizens - Photos from a 22:00 Devil's Island exhibition working man Thursday June 9 Runs until June 5 Karl Christian Nielsen´s exhibition 18:00 Children Restaurant Reykjavik depicts photos of every day life between 20:00 Parents Let's Talk Iceland Comedy Show 1916 and 1950 22:00 Dramarama Daily, 20:00, 2200 ISK Runs until August 28 Friday June 10 Reykjavík Art Museum Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum 18:00 Eleven Men Out Ásmundarsafn Sigurjón Ólafsson's Pillars & 20:00 Children of Nature From Sketch to Sculpture - Draw- "Icelander" 22:00 Heima by Sigur rós ings by Ásmundur Sveinsson Runs until August 28 Runs until April 22, 2012 Saturday June 11 Skaftfell 18:00 Sky Palace Magnús Árnason - Homage Kate Woodcroft and Catherine Sagin Runs until April 22, 2012 20:00 The Sea The work of collaborative group Cath- 22:00 Jar City Tomi Ungerer – Posters and Draw- erine Sagin (thus named after Catherine Sunday June 12 ings Sagin won a fencing bout 10-8 at the 18:00 Benjamin Dove Tomi is an award winning illustrator opening of an exhibition) will be fea- 20:00 The House known for his social satire tured 22:00 Dream of the Way Runs until July 24 Runs until June 15 Perspectives - On the Borders of Art Monday June 13 and Philosophy Bíó Paradís, Hverfisgata 54 18:00 Seagull's DLaughter Comprehensive exhibit that represents All times are approximate 20:00 Brim the breadth and diversity of styles and Movies listed have English subtitles 22:00 The Good Heart artistic media pursued in Iceland today Tuesday June 14 Runs until September 4 Friday June 3 18:00 Angels of the Universe Reykjavík City Museum 18:00 66/23 North West 20:00 Noi the Albino Reykjavik 871 +/- 2 (The Settlement 20:00 Thicker Than Water 22:00 Honour of the House Exhibition) 22:00 Reykjavík Whale Watching Massacre Wednesday June 15 Archaeological findings from ruins of Saturday June 4 18:00 Tears of Stone one of the first houses in Iceland and 18:00 The Big Rescue 20:00 No Bone No Skin other excavations in the city centre 20:00 Under the Glacier 22:00 White Night Wedding On permanent view 22:00 Pearls and Swine Reykjavík Maritime Museum Thursday June 16 From Poverty to Abundance Sunday June 5 18:00 The Icelandic Dream Photos documenting Icelandic fishermen 18:00 The Secret Spell 20:00 Cold Trail 22:00 Hullaballoo

Gamla góða ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JUNE

Be One With The Environment The Living Art Museum, Laugavegur 26 Runs until July 3 Free

Or go visit Carl Boutard’s exhibit at The Living Art Museum, where he has created sculptures specifically for this installation. Carl’s pieces are often connected to nature, science, and language. In some pieces on display, he has taken plants from his every day environment, cast them in bronze, and made art out of them. These abstract pieces are worth seeing, so go feel the connection between artist and nature. SAT

4 June

UNO – cucina italiana is an Italian restaurant located in central Reykjavík. Experience a fusion of Italian and Icelandic flavours served in a casual and vibrant environment. Solaris 2.0 Harpa—Silfurberg, Ingólfsgarður Austurbakki 2 Must try dishes June 4, 20:00 Mink whale carpaccio 3.500 ISK Mink whale carpaccio with fennel, cabbage, This year marks the 50th anniversary of the publication of Krakow writer Stanislaw parmesan cheese and lemon oil. Lem’s novel ‘Solaris’, and this should be celebrated. Luckily, the masterful Ben Frost and Daníel Bjarnason have created an ambitious project doing just that, with the Lobster tail and tiger prawn Our kitchen is open help of one of Poland’s leading orchestras, Sinfonietta Cracovia. And, guess what: Linguini they’re bringing it to Harpa! Linguini with tiger prawns, Icelandic 11.30 – 23.30 ‘Music For Solaris’ was premiered at the Unsound Festival in Krakow last year lobster, rucola and cherry tomatoes in Sundays to Thursdays and (and then staged at Unsound New York in April) to critical acclaim. Now we’re get- shellfish sauce. ting it in Reykjavík, and this is exciting. 11.30 – 24.00 Grilled salmon For 29 string players, two percussionists, prepared piano, guitars and elec- Grilled salmon with Icelandic barley, Fridays and Saturdays tronics, ‘Music For Solaris’ has its beginnings in both Lem’s original novel and grilled vegetables, radishes, dill, toasted Andrei Tarkovsky’s 1972 film adaptation. The story behind it, as explained on Ben’s almonds and sage butter. MySpace (!) goes that he was never satisfied with the original score for Tarkovsky’s Vesturgata film. “I always felt that Russian composer Eduard Artemyev's score compounded Tryggvagata Grilled minke whale the external, science fiction elements of the story rather than exploring the internal, Grilled minke whale with „Brennivín“ the human.” glaze, rosemary potatoes and grilled After composing the music, however, Daníel and Ben were no longer interested vegetables. in screening Tarkovsky’s adaptation to it. “At the same time the idea of a blank screen also troubled me”, says Ben, “[b]ut as soon as Brian [Eno, who selected White chocolate skyr panna cotta Hafnarstræti With Limoncello gel and oat crumble. Frost as his protégé in the Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative] saw the screen Ingólfs- in the Krakow cinema, I could see his mind started ticking over the problem too, torg Aðalstræti and a few days later he laid out this elegant visual solution that mirrored everything Austurstræti Veltusund we were trying to get at aurally”. See you soon ... A presto Brian along with Nick Robertson came upon the elegant solution of manipulat- ing Tarkovsky’s original, turning single frames of the film into a slow moving slide show that looks as if the images are “melting” together. It is an ambitious feat to UNO | Hafnarstræti 1-3 | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 561 1313 | uno.is change the music, and an equally ambitious venture to change the film itself to suit the new music. But do you expect anything less from some of Iceland’s best, coupled with Brian Eno? ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JUNE

Art | Review

Whale Watching and Puffin island Take part in an adventure at sea into the world of whales and sea birds all year round from Reykjavík.

Whale Watching Schedule – All Year

Puffin season Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Des 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 10:00* 10:00* 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 14:00* 14:00* 17:00 17:00 17:00 *10:00 and 14:00 departures from 1 July to 10 August

Other adventures at sea Free entry to the Puffin Watching May 15th - August 15th Whale Watching Centre. th st

ENNEMM / SÍA / NM41987 Midnight Whale Watching June 15 - July 31 Sea Angling May 1st - August 31st Call us on +354 555 3565 or visit www.elding.is Enter The Monsters Club... Ferry to Viðey island all year round

A group of local artists take a journey to the heart of darkness Tour Operator Environmental Award Icelandic Tourist Board

  
   
 
 Modern society and culture often exquisite torture a cat renders upon a elding.is promote the idea that human monsters are twinkle-eyed, almost supernatural 150,8x195mm geniuses, affably quoting Wilde and What: We saw Monsters Nietzsche while disembowelling people Where: National Theatre in the most convoluted way imagin- When: May 20, 2011 able. Of course, the reality is that most ‘monsters’ are repressed, delusional, almost pathetic creatures that are only gods inside their own heads. Yet they mouse before killing it. walk and talk among us undetected. Now this being a piece about the See that person sitting next to you heart of darkness those monsters while you read this? Yup, right now they occupy, you’d expect some explicit im- might be thinking of ways to use your agery to portray this. Naturally, ‘We Saw skin as a dress. Monsters’ had a director’s cut full of This idea of the ‘monster’ inside symbolism that would make any torture us all was what a group of artists and porn addict’s knees tremble. There was dancers led by Erna Ómarsdóttir were masturbation with a scythe and rubber looking to explore at this year’s Reyk- hands, copious nudity, transvestism, javík Arts Festival. Despite being a re- simulated incest, death, gore and body nowned dancer in her own right, I was mortification. Perhaps I’m a dead-eyed Try our famous more aware of Erna’s work with sex bin misanthrope inured to such things, but death metal pop band Lazyblood (fellow for some reason this didn’t shock me Icelandic Lazyblood-er, Reykjavík!’s Valdimar that much, especially when placed in Jóhannsson was also performing). But it context with the likes of De Sade and Gourmet Fiest was safe to expect that this piece would Herman Nitsch. What did unsettle me be pushing a few boundaries. though was a five second period when » Starts with a shot of the infamous Arriving five minutes late, the the music cut out, giving way to the performance was already at full tilt orgasmic heavy breathing of Lovísa and Icelandic spirit Brennívín (apparently in theatre land, a 19:00 Sigríður in the throes of some inter- start means that it actually starts at sister rutting. Cue heavy squirming in » Smoked puffin with blueberry 19:00). This meant an interminable my chair. “brennivín” sauce game of catch up as I tried to decipher While the dancing and visual scenes what the hell was going on. The first took a little effort to understand, the » Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa half saw a series of slightly disjointed music (provided by Valdimar) propelled visual set pieces that seemingly aspired the piece along nicely. With atonal » Lobster tails baked in garlic to explore the realms of the monsters radiophonic electronica, hard industrial » Pan-fried monkfish with lobster sauce deep in our psyche. There seemed to be sounds, EBM death metal, and sweep- a lot of inspiration from horror celluloid ing operatic ambient, it provided an » Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina going on. Stage twins Lovísa Gun- abundance of atmosphere that soothed narsdóttir and Sigríður Níelsdóttir, with and battered you in equal amounts. » Minke Whale with cranberry-sauce their long hair, knee length socks, and The show ended with a Grand Gui- sudden jerking movements, resembled gnol finale as the characters embarked » World famous chocolate cake with a cross between the dead girls from on a religious themed orgy of self-de- berry compoté and whipped cream ‘The Shining’ and the killer ghost from struction at an altar that was reminis- The Ring, while Erna herself, with her cent of the endings to Peter Greenaway bedraggled bedclothes, psychotic eyes movies in the ‘80s with its emphasis 5.890 ikr. and highly suspect mothering tenden- on death, decay and the limits of the cies, definitely had a touch of Joan flesh. It was all designed to pound and ‘Mommy Dearest’ Crawford about her. overload the senses as they burned up In terms of the dancing, you could in heaven (or hell depending upon your tell who were the professional and viewpoint). non-professional dancers, which meant “We Saw Monsters” was bewilder- some scenes were more memorable ing, punishing and definitely a little The only kitchen than others. The definite highpoint fucked up. But you can pretty much though was the danse macabre say the same thing about our society’s in Reykjavík open between Valdimar as death and Ásgeir monsters. Magnússon as his victim. It was es- to 23:30 on weekdays RESTAURANT- BAR pecially graceful, reminding me of the Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík bob cluness and 01:00 on weekends Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Nanna Dís Jónsdóttir / snoop-around.com REVIEWS BanThai Two restaurants on the upper The best ThaiFood 2009, 2010 part of Laugavegur explored

There are a lot of positive reviews about BanThai that we are the best thai restaurant

Authentic Thai cuisine served in elegant surroundings yummi yummi with Spicy,Spic Very Delicious you have to try and reasonable prices. www.yummiyummi.net Smaralind Private rooms on the 2nd floor. 5544-633 Open Hours 18.00–22.00. Every day. and Hverfisgata Tel; 692-0564, 5522-444 # 123 588-2121 - The three great places for Thai food

www.banthai.name

Whales are being killed to feed tourists Don’t let your visit leave a bad taste in your mouth “This establishment is truly a labour of love”

Only a handful of cities around the Nepalese Pilau (890 ISK), rice cooked world can boast wearing the Nepalese Kitchen Eldhús with cashews, almonds, raisins and jewel in their culinary crown, and Laugavegur 60a coconut, and Peshwari Naan (490 ISK). Reykjavík is fortunate to be one them. Perhaps I should have paired a wine to Kitchen Eldhús opened at Laugavegur complement this, as the list was rather 60 a little over two years ago and it has extensive for Icelandic standards, but www.fjalakotturinn.is consistently remained one of my top Kathmandu is particularly famous for a Nepalese chiya worked just as well. downtown dining choices. Proprietor the ‘Mo: mo;’, a type of dumpling that Once again, we finished more than and executive chef Deepak Panday originated from Tibet and popular satisfied, and without room to spare for offers a menu that caters to a variety of as a fast street food (1.490 ISK). My dessert. One day I will save room for tastes and appetites, with an emphasis partner and I began with this fresh Juju Dhau, the king of yoghurts, one on the healthy Newari cuisine that is specialty served with a tomato and day. indigenous to the Kathmandu Valley. poppy seed chutney, and the Beignets Without compromise, Deepak The indiscriminate tongue often de Aubergine, a fried eggplant round prides himself in offering the mistakes Nepalese cuisine as Indian, filled with a cheese and tamarind sauce healthiest food available, with each of a common fallacy, as they share many (1.990 ISK). We could have stopped the twenty five dishes made to order of the same spices and rices, as well here, as our mouths already arrived fresh, and adjusted for any specific as sharing a common political border. at nirvana. We were given a private dietary concerns as suggested by the Rather than heavily sauced meat table on the second floor, and were menu. Each bite evidenced that this typical of a northern Indian Mughal completely at ease with the ambiance establishment is truly a labour of love style kitchen, Newari cuisine is praised of our surroundings. This was our for Deepak and a culinary asset for New Nordic Cuisine for being delicate and slightly milder first time away from our newborn, Iceland. Kitchen Eldhús serves lunch with a more distinctive, wide palette and so we expected a nervous evening weekdays from 12-14:30, and dinner in the heart of the city center that spares not one taste bud. Spices tethered to our telephones and staring seven days a week from 17:30-22:00. are indispensable to the Newa way of at clocks. Quite the contrary. The life, with most dishes consisting of relaxed but refined interior warmed a combination of methi (fenugreek), by a gentle melody played on the besar (turmeric), jeera (cumin seeds), wooden flute subdued all anxiety. Our dhaniya (coriander), jwano (carom entrees arrived, and I savoured every seed), lahsun (garlic), aduwa (ginger), bite of Achari Salmon, a spicy steak khursani (chilli powder), Nepali sunp marinated in mustard, fennel, chillies, MAdeleine T (dill), and tejpat (bay leaf). and anis (3.590 ISK) and served with a hvalreki

A unique dining experience like never before

Austurstræti The restaurant is warm and friendly Aðalstræti and has the atmosphere of old

Austurvöllur Icelandic and nordic style. Kirkjustræti EXPO · www.expo.is

Pósthússtræti Our ambition is in serving high quality food, having a wide Vonarstræti selection of good wine and Tjarnargata City Hall providing the best service. Pond

Opening hOurs Every day from 18:00 – 22:00 Fridays & Saturdays from 18:00 – 23:00 Sundays from 18:00 - 22:00

Fjalakötturinn | Aðalstræti 16 | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 514 6060 | Fax 514 6030 FD For your mind, body and soul

“Why should I return for a soggy potluck and some frozen fries?”

Since opening, I was apprehensive to Apparently this business venture do more than peek into the window of Tasty was approached without any industry a downtown restaurant reduced to the Laugavegur 60 experience. Enrol in a course or do lowest common denominator, which some research. Go dine at other might be expected if it were attached restaurants! Why is their formula to a petrol station and 200 km from working? Obviously you are not the next watering hole, but this is First, reconsider the name and slogan interested in upscale dining, and that is Laugavegur, Iceland’s main shopping “smakkast betur” (“tastes better”). fine, but you can afford a bit of charm street and there is nothing to entice me Better? Better than what? and still keep the prices low. Look to walk through the front door except Second: Know the business you are around at the fast casual market and a sign that reads “Tasty: smakkast really in: Food + Ambiance + Service = ask what differentiates your burger betur”. I was not even certain that food Experience. experience from your neighbours’? I was actually being served yet, since the I walk into a lifeless dungeon of can walk three blocks and have one of place was dark and empty, but to my dismal music, sit at a sticky plastic table the finest burgers in town for the same chagrin, a tug on the door revealed that and feel compelled to order a beer. The price. Why should I return for a soggy Tasty was open for business. Now, I server says the alcohol order did not potluck and some frozen fries? Cutting was going to let this experience simmer come this weekend. You are located a fresh potato into chips is cheap and until the next issue, but I have a feeling downtown and have no excuse for three easy and could be a starting point. You that Tasty may not be around that long. days of an unstocked bar. Change the also have location to your advantage, This place is in serious trouble. I hope menu, or send someone to the shop. now follow up with ambiance. the two employees have a back up plan, Next, I order the marinated leg of lamb I am so bored with this opportunist or maybe a plot involving mutiny. served with ciabatta, mushrooms, mentality of seeking a harvest without Opening its doors just months ago, grand salad, and a side of fries (1.800 ploughing. If you want to make money, the owner solicited us insisting that ISK). I am served what appears to be then import the next portable sauna or Tasty was ready for review. Seriously? a burger on a burnt Bónus bun and a trampoline craze to Iceland and stay Then this place is in deeper water bowl of fries. The photograph is a bit out of the kitchen. A restaurant should than I thought; a kitchen nightmare too generous. Perhaps it should have be opened out of passion and not profit. desperately in need of a Gordon shown the gristled excuses of lamb As the old joke goes: the quickest way Ramsay fix. Listen, I will save you the bits inside or soggy sponge of the bun to get a million krónur in the restaurant humiliation and address the obvious. below. At least the mushrooms were business is to start with two million. Heed my advice: a restaurant is a good. The server never saw or heard of labour of love. Owners just starting out ciabatta bread. When confronted with should be involved with every detail of the piece of burger lettuce I was served, the operation. Wake up, break a sweat, the cook made good on the grand salad. MAdeleine T or give up and stay at home. MAdeleine T

Iceland’s Restaurant of the year 2009 & 2010 by the Nordic Prize

Nordic House Sturlugata 5 101 Reykjavik tel. +354 552 1522 www.dillrestaurant.is Open for lunch every day from 11.30 and for dinner wednesday to sunday from 19.00.