JULY, 1914. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY $2.00 A YEAR hat •ihairectim • • •Iyitt • •
From the decks of the Inter-Island steamers may be seen the water- falls on the Hamakua coast of Hawaii where every cane field comes down to the cliffs of the sea and sends its surplus water from the irrigation ditches cascading down to the depths of the gulches that extend up from the Ocean.
.11,11,111.41,IMMIUM1,11,40144MPAMMIAMIMMAP,1 VIAX)P4,1,141,4),e,(MAINXIIP4MAT)41,1,11MROPMNAP Mff,114. The glid-Pacific Magazine CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor NUMBER I VOLUME VIII CONTENTS FOR JULY, 1914.
Our Art Gallery. m • • • .. • • Ocean Vegetables • • By Minnie Reed, M. S. New Zealand's Future - - - - - - 25 By A. W. Newson Hawaii's Tunneled River - - - - - - 33 By R. 0. Matheson China's Monte Carlo - - - - - - 37 By R. S. Baker Honolulu in Days of Yore - - - - - - 41 By J. W. Girvin Easter Island - - - - - - - - 47 By H. 0. Sandberg (of Pan-American Union staff) The Portuguese in Hawaii - - - - - - 53 By A. D. Castro Two Birds of Australia - - - - - - 59 By Mary Salmon The New Pearl Harbor - - - - - - 65 By A. P. Taylor The Road to Taal - - - - - - - 71 By Roy A. Wells The Hawaiian Home - - - - - - - 77 From Memoirs Bishop Museum Fishing With Birds at Night - - - - - 81 By H. G. Ostrander Sugar on Maui - - - - - - - - 87 By Kenneth Hunter Inter-Island Transportation - - - - - - 93 • • By James A. Kennedy • • Guide Book and Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific.
The Mid-Pacific Magazine Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-clasp matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. Permission is given to the Press to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given Coconut Island, in the harbor of Hilo, is probably the most talked about bit of scenery in Hawaii. You can walk across Coconut Island in two minutes by the clock, but in all the Pacific there is probably no other such idyllic spot. In Australia, some of the most beautiful scenery is along the rivers. This scene is on the Tweed, a branch of the famous Murrum- bidgee, which has been dammed to provide among the mountains a series of bays almost as beautiful as Sydney harbour. ■
The pride of the Island of Oahu is the famous Nuuanu Pali or precipice, six miles from Honolulu. Beyond is the mountain peak of Lanihuli, a favorite point for Saturday trampers who easily scale the summit in search of the much-colored landshells. ■ III II 11 ■ •
New Zealand is truly the land of the sky, Otago district being the world's wonder park of mountain peaks and valleys. Here we have a camping tourist gazing into the valley of the Maltarora. The Government Tourist Bureau is cutting trails to to all parts. ■ ■
Surf-riding from time immemorial has been the typical sport of Ha- waii. This picture shows how small a wave the boy of Hawaii needs to send his board speeding toward the shore. Sometimes waves rise above the head of the standing surfer, then he is happy. ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
The Samoan is closely related to the Hawaiian and the Maori of New Zealand in language and custom; but in Samoa the primi- tive customs of the people have been retained, so that today the South Sea Islander of a thousand years ago may still be studied. I • ■
The oil wells of California have revolutionized traffic across the Pacific; for the largest steamers of the great ocean now use oil as fuel instead of coal, saving much more space for both cargo and passengers. The picture shows a gusher in southern California. ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
This picture was taken by Dr. Sun Yat Sen while he was provisional president of the Chinese Republic. It shows a street scene in Nanking taken from the top of a bell tower. In the foreground may be seen the first flag of the new republic. ■ II
On the Island of Maui, behind the old Hawaiian capital, Lahaina, the rich soil is cultivated right up to the base of the precipitous mountains which seem to rise from either cane fields, banana groves, or irrigated areas of taro, the native food of Hawaiians. ■ ■ ■ .■ N
All Japan is beautiful, and the Hakone district is the most delect- able part of the Japanese fairyland. Lake Ashi here shown is surrounded by mountains, with Fujiiyama, the sacred peak of Japan ever in the background. It is a great tourist resort. ■ a ■ ■
Honolulu has its bits of beautiful architecture, not the least of which is the capitol building, once the royal palace of Queen Liliuo- Italani. The picture shows one of the arches of the building through which is seen the royal palms and banyan trees in the palace grounds. ■ ■ ■ A
Every year the cruise to the Alaskan glaciers is becoming more and more the thing to do. A few days from Seattle and Vancouver in mid-summer and the vessel is in Alaskan waters amid floes and ice and big glaciers that thunder down into the ocean. ■
Even the Hawaiian women know every haunt of the fish on the reef, and they have taught the Chinese to get the fish as no white man ever learns. The waters of Kauai abound in the most gorgeously colored fish to be found anywhere in the world. M • •
In the Philippines the mule is the particular friend of the native Filippino and of the soldiers. The picture shows a body of bluejackets sending a mule ashore for the service of the army in the Moro Province. ■ ■ ■ ■
A favorite food of the Hawaiian, limu, or seaweed, is gathered at the seashore where the coconut grows from the reef. The na- tive women wade out in the shallow water and gather the limu, though for some of the species they have to dive. The Mid-Pacific Magazine CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD
VoL. VIII. JULY, 1914. NUMBER 1
The real Limu.
Ocean Vegetables
Bip MINNIE REED, M. S.
I AWAII has nearly a thousand a meal without some kind of limu or miles of coast line ; as a con- seaweed, and even today no Hawaiian sequence the native Hawaiians feast is considered quite complete with- are skillful and daring fisher- out several varieties served as a relish men and sailors, as well as splendid with meats or poi. swimmers. The Hawaiians, like the Jap- Many tons of these seaweeds are anese, are fond of almost all the pro- gathered and eaten by the Hawaiians ducts of the sea, and, like them, prize annually, besides large quantities im- the seaweed very highly for food. ported from the Orient and San Fran- Ancient Hawaiians probably seldom ate cisco for the consumption of both the
2-M. P. 17 18 THE MID-PACIFIC
Japanese and Chinese. The seaweed tractive algae were universally used sold in Honolulu alone amounts annually wherever and whenever it was possible to thousands of dollars. to secure them from the sea. The peo- Before the coming of the white man ple living in the mountain valleys used, to these islands the diet of the poorer in addition to marine alga, several kinds Hawaiians was largely poi, fish, and of the soft green fresh-water alga from limn. Even poi was scarce in times of the streams and ponds. Nothing edible, war or famine, and then the poorer fish- from tiny shellfish or minnows an inch ermen contented themselves with only long to great sharks, escaped the hungry fish and limu. Sometimes for weeks no Hawaiian fisherman. Likewise he gath- other vegetable food could be obtained ered seaweeds, large and small, and also but limu, which can be gathered all the the fine green algae of the fresh water year, except during very severe storms. to satisfy his hunger for vegetable food. Sweet potatoes, taro, and bananas could The limu had to take the place of all only be grown in the good soil, where green vegetables—as - onions, lettuce, there was plenty of rain or sufficient beets, beans, peas, etc.—as well as fruits, water for irrigation. Many of the fish- and must have helped very much to ing villages had no fertile land near vary the monotony of a diet of fish and them, so these people were compelled to poi, which were then as now the two go to the mountain valleys to secure all staple foods of the native Hawaiians. their food except what they fished from There are over seventy distinct species the sea. Until after the death of Kameha- of algae or limu used for food by the meha the Great (1819) women suffered Hawaiians. Of these seventy species not the death penalty if they ate bananas, more than forty are in general use. The coconuts, turtles, pork, or certain fish, so other thirty or thirty-five are used only that their diet was even more limited by a few people in certain small areas than that of the men. They must have where they are found in limited quanti- suffered greatly during times of famine ties. There are perhaps a dozen or and war, when their only food came more common species of alga, mostly from the sea. Before the coming of the marine, that are termed by the Hawai- missionaries there were no fruits except ians simply limu, or with some descrip- bananas, coconuts, and the mountain tive appellation. like limu make, meaning apple, and none of these were ever poisonous limo. Each edible limu has abundant, except the mountain apple or its own special appellation besides the ohia, which is plentiful only during July generic name limu, with which it is com- and August in the mountain valleys bined either as a descriptive adjective wherever there is a heavy rainfall. or as a suffix. It was because of this limited food Most of the limu is gathered by na- supply, no doubt, that the early Hawai- tive women and children, except that ians learned to use for food almost every which grows in the deeper or rougher living thing, both plant and animal, water, far out on the coral reefs, or on found along their coasts. Almost every exposed rocks, where expert swimmers kind of seaweed that could possibly be and more strength are required, and also eaten was used for food by some Ha- where a boat is usually needed. In such waiians, while certain of the more at- places at least two people are required, THE MID-PACIFIC 19 and often a party of three or more men very fine and slippery, like hair, so it and women go together. The women must be handled in a different manner usually gather the limu while the men from other alge, and requires much are fishing and caring for the boat and more care to remove the sand, the small, nets. clinging mollusks, and crustaceans. The limu gatherers go out at low tide Occasionally you will see a limu gath- with tin pails, old sacks, and pieces of erer out on the reef, in water almost to sharpened iron or an old knife, and her waist, looking very intently through scrape the seaweed from the coral or a square glass-bottomed box, and now rocks. The seaweed is freed from sand and then probing the depths with a and pebbles and each kind placed in a sharpened iron rod. The iron rod is separate receptacle, if possible. If the used to loosen certain mollusks, limu ua- limu grows nearer shore in the sand or ualoli, limu lipoa, limu maneoneo, and mud, or floats in near the beach, the also to kill eels and octopi, all of which women and children wade out, gather- are highly prized for food. The boxes ing it without any implements, carefully or square frames with a glass bottom washing out the sand, mud, or small sea have been recently introduced by the animals, and pulling out all inedible Italian fishermen, and are not in gen- limu before placing it in their pails or eral use even near Honolulu. sacks. They often wade out into the At low tides, when the water recedes, water above the waist, following the tide wherever there are flats or shallow coral as it recedes. A few varieties of limu reefs and quiet water, one can see many drift ashore, and are simply gathered natives with bags and old knives wading along the water's edge from the rocks. far out gathering limu and other sea and sand and shaken free from the sand edibles, as mollusks, squid, sea urchins, or inedible weeds. and sea cucumbers or beche de mer. Limu luau is one of these which ap- Immediately after gathering the limu pears in winter or spring after heavy it is very carefully washed, either in salt storms and lasts for only a few days. It or fresh water, to remove all sand, mud, is found on bold exposed rock constantly or clinging mollusks and crustaceans. The dashed by waves, so it is difficult and Hawaiian women are most particular dangerous to collect it, especially as it is about this cleaning process, so wash the extremely slippery and has to be scraped seaweed through many waters, and look forcibly from the rocks in small bunches it over very carefully to remove every while the collector clings to his support particle of grit or inedible limu that and avoids the heavy waves. He must often becomes entangled with the edible be sure-footed, quick and a strong varieties. swimmer, if he collect limu luau. Limu A few varieties of limu can not be eleele must always be floated or dipped washed in fresh water without injuring out of the water into pails, because it the flavor and causing a very rapid de- always grows at the mouth of streams cay, so that in a few hours it is entirely in the quiet brackish water and so is full unfit for food. of silt or sand. This is partly washed out After cleaning, the seaweed is always as the limu is scraped or floated out with salted and usually broken, pounded; or the hands into the pails. This limu is chopped into small pieces, and usually it 20 THE MID-PACIFIC
Hawaiian boy fishing for shrimps. THE MID-PACIFIC 21 is eaten uncooked as a relish with poi, roasting is still done in the primitive meats, or fish. Raw fish is never eaten way. Their cooking is done over a fire without limu or some other relish, such in an old coal-oil tin out of doors, hence as raw tomatoes, chili peppers, or must be very simple. Meat is usually onions. boiled or stewed in small quantities with The Hawaiians in the ancient times taro leaves or limu. Whenever any Ha- seldom cooked their limu, though it was waiian gives a large dinner the pig and occasionally placed in the imu or earthen fish are roasted in the imu as in olden pit with pig or dog and roasted or days. steamed. This was done when there Limu huna is especially prized for was a famine or war and taro and sweet boiling with squid or octopus, though potatoes were scarce. limu manauea and limu akiaki are often The Hawaiians of today do far more used as substitutes. These limus, when cooking than formerly, because they are boiled with squid, produce a jelly of not hampered for cooking utensils as which the Hawaiians are very fond. were their ancestors, who had no vessels Limu manauea is considered by native that could be set over the fire. Water cooks especially fine when boiled with could only be heated by putting in hot chicken, as it thickens the broth. Some- stones, and boiling or stewing was almost times grated coconut and coconut milk impossible. Their only method of cooking are added to the chicken, forming a very meats or fish was in the primitive imu, delicious fricassee, which the writer has or pit lined with stones and heated with tested with very great appreciation. The a big fire. This when well heated was writer has tried nearly all of these gela- lined with banana and ti leaves, then tinous limus with boiled beef and in beef pigs, dogs, fish, taro, or sweet potatoes or other soups, and finds them excellent. were placed on the ti leaves, covered They are particularly palatable in veg- well with ti and banana leaves, while etable soups, and are probably equally over this was heaped earth. This was good in chicken or mutton broth, where allowed to steam twelve hours or more the limu would make an excellent sub- before serving. Usually hot stones were stitute for tapioca or sago, so often used placed in the pig to hurry the cooking, by American cooks. Limu eleele, be- or if the pig was large it was cut into ing a general favorite and so widely dis- small pieces for each individual. These tributed, forms a part of every native small pieces with a roll of taro leaves or feast. After being thoroughly soaked some gelatinous limu were placed in ti and washed in fresh water it is salted leaves and tied in bundles, which were slightly and served uncooked, with poi placed in the pit and roasted as de- and fish or meats. It is sometimes put scribed above. The limu when steamed into hot gravy or broth and in meat in this way with meats becomes gelatin- stews just before being served. It may ous and is flavored with the meat juices. be kept with a little salt about a week. It is considered very delicious by the na- Some natives allow it to pass through tives, who always eat it with the roasted what they call a ripening process, which meat and sweet potatoes. is as follows : The limu is soaked Very few poor Hawaiians have stoves twenty-four hours or more in fresh or ovens, so that all their baking or water after being cleaned, when it be- 22 THE MID-PACIFIC gins to change color, becomes yellowish, Limu kohu is always pounded well as slimy, and decomposes somewhat, de- it is being cleaned to free it from ad- veloping a very rank odor. It is then hering bits of coral, and also so that it said to be ripe and ready to eat. When may be soaked more thoroughly to re- sold in the market it is usually freshly move the disagreeable bitter flavor. It prepared the day before, so is generally is soaked twenty-four hours or more in eaten without ripening or decomposing. fresh water, to remove the bitter iodine These fresh water algae are sometimes flavor. It is then salted ready to be taken fresh from the stream and eaten served as a relish or salad with meats, with fresh water shrimps or opai and a fish, and poi, or it is mixed with other little salt. These fresh water limns are seaweeds and put into hot gravy and also occasionally cooked with pig in the meat stews, just as many other limus imu, or put into the gravy. Most of the are eaten. Limu kohu has a rather fresh water algae are eaten by the na- pleasant flavor, though it is slightly bit- tives living in the mountain valleys, as ter even after soaking for twenty-four the people on the beach seem to prefer hours. It is always found in the market their own more accessible seaweeds. made into balls about the size of a large There is a flowering plant found in baseball and heaped upon large plates. fresh water ponds that is eaten by the It sells at 25 cents per ball and is always Hawaiians with great relish, especially in great demand. with raw opai. This flowering plant A very delicious condiment called ino- (Naias major) is called limu kala-wai mona is made of the roasted kernel' of because it resembles slightly the limu the kukui nut pounded fine with salt. kala from the sea. It is eaten raw with Many Hawaiians also add a bit of chop- a little salt, much as water cress. It is ped chili pepper and some limu, usually considered particularly appetizing with limu kohu, which is pounded very fine raw fresh water shrimps, opai, or crabs. and then thoroughly mixed with the It is often sold in the market during pounded kukui nuts and salt. This will February and March, when it seems to keep for months in glass jars, and is ex- be most abundant. cellent with bread and butter or cold Limu lipoa is very often pounded and meats. It resembles Russian caviare in mixed with other seaweeds to give them flavor, especially when eaten with bread its peculiar penetrating, spicy flavor and and butter. The Hawaiians serve this odor. It is frequently served with meats with poi, raw or cooked fish, or roast or put into the gravy or stews to give meats as a relish or condiment. Other to them a peppery flavor, of which the limus as limu lipeepee or limu manauea Hawaiians are very fond. All Hawai- are also sometimes used in making ino- ians like the odor and flavor of this mona, and if chili peppers can not be alga, especially with raw fish. It is con- obtained, the large green peppers are sidered particularly delicious with raw cooked in ti leaves, then pounded and flying-fish, if simply broken and salted used instead. The dried gills of the slightly. This seaweed has a very agree- squid roasted in ti leaves are also added able spicy taste and odor, and undoubt- by some Hawaiians. edly takes the place of sage and pepper Limu luau or limu lipahee, as it is in Hawaiian foods. called on Hawaii (Porphyra leucosticta). THE MID-PACIFIC 23 is prepared by washing in the usual way urchins are salted and mixed with limu in fresh water. It is then salted a little uaualoli, limu kohu, or other pounded and put into clear water, where it be- limus, and this mixture is served and comes slippery and colors the water a always eaten raw for a relish or entre. lovely violet color. Sometimes opihi, In the same way loli (several species of a kind of limpet or mollusk, is put in holothurians, as sea cucumbers, beche with the limu and salt and water and de mer, and others) are cut into small placed in bottles or jars. This is used pieces and mixed with pounded limu, as needed, for it keeps many weeks salt, and sometimes a little chili pepper when placed in the weak brine with the is added and then served uncooked. limpets. The tender tips of limu paha- The Hawaiians usually preserve their paha are sometimes prepared by rubbing seaweed, if only to be kept a few days and crushing between the fingers, and or a week, by simply salting and tying then it is mixed with small mollusks of closely in several layers of ti leaves and a special kind and salt. The finely pound- placing in a shady place. The ti leaves ed limu uaualoli is sometimes mixed with salt and small limpets in very much keep the seaweed from drying and also the same way. keep it crisp. The pounded seaweed is The soft parts, particularly the eggs often stored in calabashes or glass jars and sperm, of several kinds of sea after it is salted or put into weak brine.
A bit of edible seaweed. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC Auckland's Town Hall.
New Zealand's Future
By A. W. NEWSON
HE most important part of any ers of old world countries can form no nation's history lies in the fu- conception of the actual condition of af- T ture. The past is a lesson, the fairs in new lands, and it is only those present a fact, the future is that who have had special opportunities of which can be made. This is why New studying New Zealand and have spent Zealand's future is such an interesting many years at the task who can realize study; it holds so much magnificent ma- what its future history might be. It has terial to be shaped and moulded by its taken New Zealand over fifty years to people. gather a white population of a million The statesmen, the thinkers, and writ- people. This may seem a poor result in
25 26 THE MID-PACIFIC the eyes of those of whom the yearly in- than its selling value in the open market, crease of vast cities and densely popu- is £315,503,213. To this must be added lated rural districts is a persistently the value of stock of all kinds, which is serious problem, but when we realize estimated at nearly £30,000,000, and then that little more than a century ago New there is of course machinery, imple- Zealand was only accessible by months ments, and the monetary wealth of the of dangerous voyaging, and only peopled people which should bring up the total by fierce and warlike savages, the re- amount close to the sum of £457,000,000, sults already won must be recognized as estimated as representing the private marvelous. wealth of the people of New Zealand. It will be remembered that New Zea- Besides this there is the public wealth— land was not invaded by an overwhelm- telegraph lines, cables, telephone systems, ing, highly organized, well equipped public buildings, and all the innumerable army of English. The early settlers came implements, machines and tools which go in tiny groups at irregular intervals ; they to make working plant for the State and saw the country a savage wilderness. the people. The bulk of this work has There were no cities for their protection, been done, the bulk of the wealth pro- no roads to carry them inland, no farms duced, in much less than fifty years. As for their working. They had to begin a matter of fact it is only a little more at the very beginning, to build houses, than thirty years ago since the invention clear the forests and the fern, and make of the refrigerating machinery first open- tracks. The Maoris came down now and ed the markets of the world to New Zea- again, burnt their homes, destroyed their land's food products and marked the real plantations, drove them to take shelter beginning of material prosperity. in stockades. But if so much has been done during The power of the Maoris has been the past fifty years, what can be done in utterly broken, farm lands have been the next fifty? It does not need the eye cleared, roads have been built from one of a prophet to see something of New end of the country to the other, cities Zealand's future. A million people of have grown up rich in everything that the British race, energetic, well educated, counts for true comfort, government well equipped with all the machinery railways have been constructed from the necessary for material progress, possess- furthest south almost to the furthest ing a land rich above all others in pro- north, and the isolated groups of early ductive soils, in economic and precious settlers have become a nation numbering minerals, and in the natural power given over a million people, virile, daring, by innumerable waterfalls, or in such wonderfully wealthy. It is worth while material for mechanical power as is pro- attempting to show what this little hand- vided by coal and petroleum, find the ful of British men and women have ac- million is being added to daily by a vig- complished in less than the short span orous birth-rate and by arrivals from of one human life. The greatness of other countries. Statistics show that in the work can never be fully described, the past fifty years the population of for no one now can picture the difficul- New Zealand has multiplied tenfold. So ties they had to overcome, and, after all, even if the same increase is maintained, facts and figures are cold and lifeless the country should carry over ten mil- things. When the Maoris held the whole lions of people. The future, however, of New Zealand, land had no monetary cannot be judged by the past. The, set of value, and there were no improvements. circumstances which governed New Zea- Even when the first white settlers ar- land, and, indeed, the whole of the South- rived, thousands of acres could be pur- ern World, has completely altered. The chased for, a few tomahawks or muskets. great waterways of the Pacific are no Today the capital value of land and its longer desolate. The fleets of a score improvements, estimated on a basis less of great .nations thread the island-stud- THE MID-PACIFIC 27 ded seas, and when the portals of the Pa- The Old World peoples have built up nama Canal are opened, other new con- great manufacturing industries. They ditions will grow up, other possibilities have crowded millions of their men and develop. Without doubt the future of women, their boys and girls, into un- New Zealand during the next half-cen- healthful factories and workshops, and tury will largely depend upon the devel- they have succeeded in winning great opment of its agricultural industries. riches for a few and abject poverty for Few of its people regret that this must be the many. Of the evil effects this system the case. They have no great desire to has had on humanity so much has been see their fair land blotted with great written, so much is known, that it may manufacturing cities, and they recognize well be used as a comparison with what that the possibilities before agriculture are may be found where the main industry almost illimitable. The growing millions of a people is agriculture. Already New of Europe and America must be fed, and Zealanders are distinguished by their fine the Eastern Nations are already offering physique and their mental energy, and their manufactures in exchange for New the newer generations are unsurpassed Zealand farm products. A few years in strength and beauty. Statistics show ago New Zealand exports were valued at that last year the farmers of New Zea- over £22,000,000, and no less than £20,- land exported £20,000,000 worth of soil 000,000 was represented by wool, frozen products and supplied well over £10,000,- meat, butter, cheese, and other products 000 for local consumption. But farming of the farm. It is not fully realized yet, in New Zealand has only just com- but it is a fact nevertheless, that the menced. There are forty million acres greatest, problem facing all great civilized of land in occupation, but barely eighty nations now is the food problem. The thousand farmers ; and out of this forty vast industrial populations of Europe, ex- million acres, under seventeen millions panding so marvellously in numbers and are cultivated, and in this area counted wealth, must have meat and wool, butter as cultivated over fourteen million acres and cheese. The people of the United are in pasture—very largely surface States, who so recently boasted that they sown. These figures show how unde- fed the world, are now breaking down veloped as yet is agriculture in New Zea- their protective barriers in order to obtain land. They show how vast are the possi- for themselves cheaper food. All these bilities of development in the future. The things must have an immense influence possibilities of development are definite on the future of New Zealand, for New enough. There are over twenty million Zealand is essentially a food-raising acres of land in New Zealand owned by country. It has not the immense wheat the Crown or by the natives lying unused lands of Canada, but it has what is much and unoccupied at the present time. better—a genial climate which enables it Much of this land is fertile and capable to produce large quantities of the highest of being quickly brought into use when- priced food stuffs. Whilst Canada can ever the Government or the Native Land turn the accumulated fertility of its Boards throw it open to settlement. But prairie lands into wheat, the short sum- this virgin land is not the only source of mers will suffice for its farmers, but when future expansion. The forty million the resources of soil nitrogen and other acres at present in occupation are barely chemical substances become exhausted, scratched as yet. The bulk of the £30,- as they must under continuous ' grain 000,000 worth of produce raised yearly growing, that country must of necessity comes from less than seventeen million fall far behind New Zealand where the acres, and even this seventeen million climate and the soil, and the mixed sys- acres is still in a very low form of culti. tem of farming, encourage an increase vation, for the greater proportion of it is rather than a loss of fertility, and a con- still merely pasture. The increase in the tinuous advance in agricultural ' produc- production of agricultural wealth in New tion. Zealand, made possibl& by closer settle. 28 THE MID -PACIFIC ment and more intensive cultivation, simplicity, and all can be made more at- must, in the course of things, be simply tractive, more easily accessible, as timc enormous. If all the farm land in the goes by. Dominion were occupied, and all of it What will these great holiday grounds cultivated, even as intensively as many be like in fifty years time? All round farms are today, New Zealand instead of the lovely shores of the semi-tropical exporting food products worth £20,000,- harbours in the North there will be or- 000 yearly, could raise at least £200,000,- chards and vineyards and highly culti- 000 worth for sale abroad. Under farm- vated farms ; fleets of fishing boats will ing, New Zealand is not likely to carry patrol the coastal waters ; inland the val- so dense a population as some Old Wort leys and the low hill ranges will be dot- manufacturing countries, and it is this ted with prosperous homes. The old fact which must make industrial life and hardships entailed by scarcity of labour- social life so much more healthy and and lack of roads will have entirely dis- much more pleasant than it can possibly appeared. New Zealanders are already be when the bulk of the people are crowd- beginning to harness their illimitable wa- ed into manufacturing cities. New Zea- ter power. In less than fifty years it is land is naturally a beautiful country—a almost certain that by means of electrical land of infinite variety and charm. In transmission every individual will have the South Island are magnificent snow- at his command forces that will enable clad mountains, broad noble plains, roll- him to carry on all forms of industry ing downs. There are unrivalled holiday with• the least possible expenditure of grounds amid the Antipodean Alps—sil- physical energy. The electric motor will very lakes set deep in old glacial hollows, drive the plough and the milking ma- majestic gorges, swift clear rivers, and chine, and electric heat and light will on the Western coast fiords and forests turn the drudgery of the housewife's surpassing those of Norway. Already work into a pleasure. this mountain country attracts visitors Already the standard of comfort and from all the world, and New Zealanders wealth in New Zealand is higher than in flock to its bracing altitudes for sport and any other country in the world, and there recreation. The innumerable rivers teem is no reason why this standard should not with fish, and they are not held as ex- be lifted year by year until there is no clusive preserves for the exceptionally such thing as hardship and poverty. The rich. Any city clerk or farm lad can for future of New Zealand is largely what a £1 license fee, cast a fly or spin a min- its own people like to make it, and in the now over hundreds of miles of fine fish- mind of all New Zealanders is firmly ing water. The deer stalker is for the fi*ed the resolve that life in all its phases same small sum allowed to roam over a shall be better and brighter than ever it vast domain, and the sportsman to shoot has been in the past. This is why the pheasants, hares, and wild duck almost country should attract men and women wherever he will. In the North Island of the highest class from all parts of the the scenery is not so magnificent as in world. It will not offer scope for the the South, but it is more beautiful. Here millionaire and the grafter ; it will not and there rise giant old volcanoes, as encourage the immigration of the crim- stately and as wonderful as Fujiyama, inal and the unfit, but it will offer full adored by the Japanese. The Thermal and free scope for every individual in the Region of Auckland is unrivalled in all community to reach the, highest position the world, and in the far North are in- obtainable. Already New Zealand gives numerable harbours, each one a paradise to its youths of both sexes every oppor- for yachtsmen or for sea anglers. All tunity to receive the best form of educa- these beauties and wonders are the tion, from the primary school to the uni- natural inheritance of New Zealanders. versity college, and its numerous well- Some are still crude in their primitive paid Government appointments are as THE MID -PACIFIC 29
open to the poor as to the rich. Heredi- build on, is it any wonder that the peo- tary privileges are unknown, and what- ple of New Zealand promise great things ever counts for the betterment of human in the future. They not only have es- life and improved social conditions has tablished high ideals, but they have the the full support of the nation. These energy and the will to fulfil them. More- are advantages of inestimable value, and over, they have the means. They are al- must have an immense influence on the ready wealthy beyond most peoples, and future of the nation. It may not be pos- they have illimitable resources at their sible to wipe out all poverty and misery command. Besides the great areas of and crime, but the will of the nation can fertile soil, barely touched yet so far as go far in this direction, and where the real productiveness goes, they have enor- avenues to success are open to everyone, mous resources in the shape of coal, iron, no one need fail for lack of opportunity. timber, gum, cement, clays. In the very earliest days of settlement, Whilst most of the old world nations New Zealand was fortunate in being se- sweat their working people in factories lected by men and women who desired in order to produce wealth for a few, religious, political, and social freedom, New Zealanders will find healthy and and her isolation amid the southern seas profitable occupation on the land. They has kept her largely free from aliens and can sell the products of the soil in a hun- undesirables of all kinds. Never in its dred markets overseas, and gain greater whole history have its ports been open to returns from their labour than can most the scum of Europe. Its people are really manufacturers. In less than fifty years more purely British than those even of it is almost certain that New Zealand the British Islands, and the absence of will be covered from end to end with well great manufacturing industries has large- cultivated, highly payable farms. The ly restricted immigration to agricultur- price of food products is steadily and ists : thus its people are naturally sturdy surely rising, because the flocks and herds and strong, and have that innate love of of the world are just as surely and stead- the land which has been deadened, if not ily decreasing. The agricultural popula- entirely killed, in the hearts of city-bred tions of the northern countries are not workers. With such material as this to growing at anything like the same rate as
A New Zealand railway yard. 30 THE MID-PACIFIC
One of New Zealand's beauty spots, the wonderful Wanganui River . THE MID-PACIFIC 31 the manufacturing people and the manu- both their eastern and their western facturing people are yearly increasing cities. Germany and Italy and other their capacity to buy and their demands continental cities must surely follow suit, for better food. These are the causes whilst the yearly increase of population which give to New Zealand unrivalled in Great Britain ensures an ever-growing opportunities for agricultural expansion, demand from New Zealand's oldest and and her mild climate and the skill of her best and most desirable customer. With farmers enable her to raise the finest and the various advantages that have been most desirable class of food products. described, and others not yet enumerated, The quality of New Zealand's butter and it has to be recognized that New Zea- cheese, of her meat and wool, has hith- land offers unrivalled opportunities for erto placed her above all competitors, and capital and enterprise. If intending im- with the spread of agricultural educa- migrants from Great Britain and other tion, already inaugurated, and the scien- north European countries could but re- tific instruction gained from State ex- alize it, there is no other country in the perimental farms, the quality bf her world which can give so much to men farm produce will surely increase. Apart and women who are capable of honest from this, however, the antipodean posi- work and willing to perform it. By hon- Con of New Zealand, so long considered est work is not merely meant manual a disadvantage, is proving to be distinctly toil. The capitalist has great rich fields beneficial, because it enables her to pour to exploit, but he must confer benefits as her food products into the most populous well as receive them. To him falls the and wealthy countries just at the zenith task of opening out new industries, build- of their winter scarcity, when food pro- ing up new trade, developing natural re- ducts are at their highest value and de- sources, and making new land productive. mand is at its greatest. Already New Such men must not .be mere money spin- Zealand butter and meat goes out with ners ; they must be captains of industry. every Vancouver steamer to supply Ca- capable of leading an army of workers nadian wants, and the enormous popula- or organizing a complex industry. Such f on of the United States must inevitably men can and will play an important part encourage the shipment of supplies to in shaping New Zealand's future. THE MID-PACIFIC
■ •
Many miles of mountain trails, such as these, are cut annually in Hawaii, seeking for hidden waters and in laying ditches by which the waters will be carried from the closed land to the desert. Often the ditch is carried through a tunnel. The tunneled mountains.
• Hawaii's Tunneled River
By R. 0. MATHESON
N HAWAII there are some of the fulness of the most elaborate irrigation big irrigation accomplishments of system of the Territory of Hawaii. I the world. In the valleys where Eight years ago, on Kamehameha day, the Napoleon of the Pacific—Ka- there was a celebration in Kohala, and mehameha the Great—was born, the the Kohala ditch was opened. Kameha- white man has created wonders, making meha day was selected for the auspicious millions of blades of grass (sugar cane) occasion because Kamehameha the Great to grow where none grew before. To was born in the Kohala district, on the do this they needed water, and to secure land across which that ditch runs. For water they bored miles of tunnels through the same reason Kamehameha day was the mountains from valley to valley, and chosen for the formal opening of the on these artificial underground ,rivers Lower Hamakua ditch, because Kame- passenger and freight steamers are to be Immeha was also born in Waipio valley. run. The fact that the conqueror has more It was on Kamehameha day that the than one birthplace and was born in two gates at the intake of the new Lower places at once is additional proof of his Hamakua ditch were lifted, Waipio river greatness. Worthy of the great king picked up out of its bed, and the first and of his birthplaces are the two irriga- water delivered to the thirsty fields nine tion systems, and the greatest of these is miles below. Thus ended the construc- the last. To prepare the ditch for the tion work of the ditch and began the use- opening $800,000 was spent, over a thou- 3-M. P. 33 34 THE MID-PACIFIC
View down Waipio canyon showing stepping of slope in trail construction. sand men toiled for more than a year. than to burrow a passageway for the wa- Great mountains have been tunneled un- ters through the solid rocks ; in the open der, great gorges have been bridged and there are places where the gulches could flumed, engineers have worked miles of have been flumed over instead of carry- calculations upon paper and have plan- ing the ditch in tunnels up one side and ned a system that stands unique in the down the other ; there are places where engineering .world today, while human a lighter masonry and a less solid con- lives have been given up to consecrate crete "might" have answered, but the the great work to the use of mankind. promoters of the enterprise ruled out of For nine miles the ditch runs in tun- the calculations any of the "mights" and nels driven through the lava of the have put through a work which is almost mighty mountains that line the Waipio a model of construction. There are no abyss. There are a score of tunnels, one weak spots in the system, so far as skill- running continuously for four miles ful overseeing and farsighted engineer- straight through the mountain, making it ing have been able to foresee. among the great tunnels of the world. There is one of the less important Below the mouth of the lowest tunnel plans of the ditch company that appeals for several miles hugging the highest ob- to the imagination of the casual visitor tainable levels, winds the open ditch. at the construction camps. This is the One hundred million gallons of water idea of taking a steam launch at the com- every twenty-four hours, or as much of pany's headquarters at Kukuihaele and that amount as is called for by the cus- steaming through miles of tunnel, across tomers of the ditch, flows from the Wai- flumes at a dizzy height above the pio valley watershed. gulches' bottoms and to "tie-up" miles It would have been cheaper, perhaps, above, with the palis towering thousands to have run the ditch alongside the palis of feet above one on every hand. An in- THE MID-PACIFIC 35
yields its crop of taro, cultivated by Chi- nese and pounded by them into paiai. This is taken over the pack trail into Hamakua on burros, for only burros could negotiate such a trail as drops into the depths. Added to the Hawaiian pro- duct is a large output of rice, also carried by pack burros from the threshing floors to the market. The ditch company has in view the carrying of the valley pro- ducts to shipping point by water. The ditch is of a size quite sufficient for a small launch and after it is put into commission the passage to the upper val- ley will be made easy. At the present time, to reach the in- take in the Kawainui branch of Waipio, a descent must be made into the valley, down a precipitous trail with a founda- tion composed of boulders, or by means of the trails blasted out along the step pali sides. These trails, which follow the tunnel levels, are in themselves feats of engineering. Solidly built, they skirt the edges of the precipices, hanging in midair at heights that try the nerve of all who pass over them, either afoot or on horseback. It gives fair indication of the magnitude of the ditch operations to View at intake of McCrossen ditch, Waipio state that the trails necessary for the pre- canyon, Island of Hawaii. liminary work cost the company some sixty thousand dollars. They are in to stay, however, being in most places cut land waterway, the only one in the Terri- into the solid face of the palis, one, two tory, will the new ditch be, a waterway and three thousand feet above the valley. through which supplies for the ditch Along these trails have been packed men, supplies for the taro growers and in on muleback heavy pieces of machin- the rice planters of Waipio will be car- ery, tons of cement, thousands of feet of ried and down which, before long, will timber and supplies of all kinds. Along come the rice and the paiai, which for the trails, reminding one of the habita- many years has been the only export of tions of the cliffdwellers, are perched lit- the valley, the garden spot of all Hawaii. tle camps, where the Japanese subcon- In the prehistoric past, Waipio was in- tractors lived with their families. Some habited by hundreds and hundreds of of the houses are literally overhanging, Hawaiian families, cultivating taro and a view from a back window straight tending the fishponds for the chiefs, who down showing the taro patches half a lived on the cooler uplands. Over the palis today wind the step trails used by mile beneath. Around these houses play those who carried the valley exports up little children, who trot up and down to the Waimea plains and across these to the trail and stay on it for some reason the people of Kau and Kona. Of the that is unknown. Either there have been Hawaiian dwellers of Waipio only a no babies lost over the pali or their loss handful remains, but the valley still has not been noticed. 36 THE MID-PACIFIC
In China's Monte Carlo there was once a great cathedral built by Japanese convicts. Today it is a ruin looked for by tourists on passing ships. Three hundred years ago and more this cathedral was the pride of Macao. Chinese Quarter, Macao.
China's Monte Carlo
By R. S. BAKER
TIRING the latter half of the years later, an expedition left India, fol- fifteenth and the early part of lowed the coast through the Straits of D the sixteenth centuries Spain Malacca, cleared the south of the Malay and Portugal were both striving peninsula, sailing thence north up for the lead in maritime enterprise, ad- through the China Sea. The object of venture and eastern exploration when this course was to discover the ap- Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese navi- proaches to Canton, known by repute, gator, succeeded in rounding the Cape of even at that time, to be the great mart Good Hope, sailing north through the of the East. Indian Ocean and safely landing at the As the first land sighted would prob- port of Calcutta, establishing, for a while, ably be the Island of Hainan, by altering Portuguese rule at that place. Follow- the course a little to the northeast, and ing this important event, some thirty keeping a good lookout, the broad inlet
37 38 THE MID-PACIFIC to the Canton River, amidst an archi- style, the servitude of the natives pelago of considerable extent, would amounting almost to slavery. Judging soon be discovered. by many of the older residences with It was one of the islands to the west their pretentious adornments, spacious known as Lampacao, where the first porticoes and verandahs, to say nothing landing was made and a naval depot es- of well appointed interiors, having each tablished, and from this island a ten- its ballroom and entertaining apart- tative attempt at intercourse with the ments, the affluence of the place must natives was begun. have been considerable. As Europeans had never penetrated Macao was at the zenith of her pros- into the Far East before, life was found perity in these days, shortlived as that to be in a very primitive state, while boasted affluence was to be. Her great the neighborhood along the coast, thick- source of wealth was the coolie traffic ly studded with islands which formed a (emigration) principally to South network of waterways, owing to the America. chances for plunder, harbored daring Owing to its profitable nature, this gangs of pirates. The Portuguese ex- emigration had, for a long time, been pedition was well enough armed and conducted in a manner which admitted otherwise prepared to protect their own of many glaring abuses appealing ulti- nationals against these sea-robbers, but mately to the humane instincts of the the Chinese of the neighborhood and outside world. the officials at Canton found themselves Such was the condition of this coolie completely at their mercy. Finally, the traffic in the year 1874 that it had to be Chinese had to apply to the Portuguese stopped, and from that date, what with for assistance in quelling this outlawry the rivalry of the British and other for- and hunting down these dangerous eign traders, the glory and wealth of pests, which assistance the Portuguese Macao began rapidly to fade and finally very magnanimously granted, success- to disappear. There were other serious fully. For this civility they are reported causes for the decline of the port : the to have received, in the year 1557, a changed conditions of local maritime conditional cession of the present site as well as sea-going trade which, as ves- of their Far Eastern possession, Macao. sels became larger and of deeper Under the influence of the Roman draught, the gradual silting-up of the Church, the Holy City was built on a anchorages soon pointed to the fact that small rocky peninsula connected by a the Portuguese at Macao must look for narrow isthmus or causeway with the some other means of subsistence ; as a large island of Heung-shan. port for foreign trade it was finished. This was the pioneer venture' to open At this time the place contained a con- up commerce between Europe and the siderable Chinese population who man- Far East, the Portuguese holding the aged to drive a thriving business among monopoly of the trade in this part of themselves and, as their favorite past- the world right up to the end of the time was gambling, which in a harm- eighteenth century. less way had always existed in Macao. Some half century later the Dutch, who the Portuguese made use of the oppor- had established their influence among tunity, legalizing the institution and the islands south of the Malay peninsula, farming it out to the highest bidder. fitted out an expedition to try and out- which made up in great measure for the wit the Portuguese in their ambitions loss of revenue occasioned by the sup- with China, but were unsuccessful. pression of the South American coolie Records inform us that during their emigration. long term of monopoly and even after There remain at this day quite a num- it had ended, life in Macao was con- ber of gambling houses in the Chinese ducted in a most luxurious, Far-Eastern quarter at Macao, most of them got up THE MID-PACIFIC 39 with a certain amount of glitter and and unfortunately, as it turned out, fell glare, regardless of expense, producing in love with one of the ladies of Queen at night rather a gay impression, espec- Catherine's court. This, it appears, ially upon the "Innocents abroad," the caused general displeasure and the im- more startling effect being realized portunate Romeo was banished by the when it becomes time "to go home" and King to Santarem. Later he was trans- the hotel bill and steamer fare has to be ferred to Africa to serve as a soldier, found. Watches and chains, etc., are but on his way, in a fight with pirates very useful on such occasions, having off the coast of Morocco, lost the sight unsuccessfully "belled the tiger." of his right eye. Five years later he re- The principal game, if it may be so turned to Lisbon when his valor as a called, is Fan-tan, which is played in the soldier was thought nothing of as com- following manner : pared to his genius as a poet. In the center of an oblong, rather Finding himself love sick once more high counter is described a square, wihout any hopes of gaining the hand of usually a piece of lead or zinc, on the his lady, he decided to risk his fortunes sides or corners numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, on in the Indies and with that intent joined which the players stake their money. At an expedition to the Far East. one end of the same counter presides the Whilst at Goa, on the coast of Hindu- chief M. C., who places a handful of stan, he received the sad news of the small brass coins (cash) on the counter death of his lady love, and from that in front of him, covering the heap with time devoted his muse to a patriotic love a bowl. When the money is all staked of his country, which passion inspired the chief M. C. lifts the bowl and with him to write that celebrated poem, "Os a chop-stick commences to count the Lusiadas." His wanderings, amidst all coins four at a time, the winners being sorts of suffering, ultimately landed him represented by the final balance 1, 2, 3 at Macao, and it is in the gardens that or 4 corresponding with the numbered he is supposed to have completed his side of the square on which they have poem. staked their money. Three times the This remarkable old ruin can be seen stake is paid—less 10 per cent. from the steamer as it passes the light- Among other places of interest, apart house, which is the oldest on the China from the evening's delightfully cool coast. promenade on the pretty crescent- shaped Praia Grande, are the Grotto of The ancient Church of San Paulo, the Poet Camoes (about ten minutes' dedicated to Our Lady the Mother of walk from the hotels) and the wonder- God—"Nossa Senhora, Mae de Deus"— ful old ruin, the Facade of San Paulo, erected 1594-1602 by the Jesuit Fathers, was built by Portuguese assisted by not far away. Japanese Roman Catholic converts, who. The Grotto is formed by a group of exiled from their country, were con- immense granite boulders which are veyed to Macao for safety. The corner- situated in the gardens bearing the poet's stone bears the following inscription : name. These gardens, together with a bronze bust of the poet, were a tribute "Virgini Magnae Matri Civitas Ma- offering to the memory of Portugal's caensis Libens Posuit Anno. 1602" immortal bard by the late Sr. Loranco (Dedicated with love to the Virgin Marques, who was a great admirer of Mother by the City of Macao). the writings of Camoes. The architectural pretensions of the Luis de Camoes, the Portuguese epic facade are very striking. poet, was born in Lisbon in 1524, where Macao is a place of holiday resort, he spent most of his childhood's days. especially if complete rest and quiet are After completing his studies at Coimbra desired. Its distance from Hongkong is University, he returned home to Lisbon only four hours. 40 NI • .--. • • •
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In the good old days every Hawaiian gir l loved to deck herself with the wild flowers that grew in profusion. •
• The native dish—poi and fish.
Honolulu in Days of Yore
By J. W. GIRVIN ■ X
S WE got opportunities to see houses of the natives looked like last more of the city, we found that year's haystacks, but were by no means A there were many homes of re- numerous, they having been superseded finement situated on the main largely with frame structures. Coco avenue leading up Nuuanu Valley. palms here and there had prominence These were set well back from the over the lower forms of shrubbery, and street, and were surrounded by a wealth bore the appearance of frayed-out um- of tropical foliage, and gave the tourist brellas. A glamour seemed to have an impression of home and comfort. We possessed us for we were charmed with climbed Punchbowl, a hill 500 feet high everything in view. We were reminded in the rear of the city, from where we of the saying of one of the passengers, obtained a magnificent view of the city, "that one who lives on the islands for a its harbor, and the whole surrounding time will assuredly come back." The country. The spires of churches loom- balmy air, the evenness of the tempera- ed up through the foliage which covered ture, the geniality of expression on the everything. faces of all the conglomerate inhabi- The prospect was entrancing. Grass tants, and the pleasant surroundings
41 42 THE MID-PACIFIC must be chargeable with this 'restful. which were strange to the markets on homelike impression. the mainland. We noted how quickly a The harbor was small, but seemed ade- native salesman would wrap up fish in a quate for the business of the port. Busi- couple of leaves, which afforded a ness appeared to be brisk, and a spirit of handle for carrying the package and at contentment possessed all with whom the same time a vehicle, dish, or mode we came in contact. Many of the natives, for cooking the same, when the buyer especially the women, were decked out had arrived at home. in the most brilliant colors of silks and On visiting the houses of natives, who prints. Both men and women wore leis always welcomed the stranger, we were (wreaths) of flowers or ferns around surprised at the simplicity of the do- their hats, the latter being principally mestic arrangements. To make a fire in home-made from coco or other palm a small hole surrounded with stones and leaves. It was quite common to see bare place a saucepan over it, as the miners feet peeping from under silk gowns, did, was the only way (excepting the probably from the comfort of going cooking of taro) what cooking they did barefooted. Carriages were not very was performed. Many kinds of fish were numerous, although drays for carrying eaten raw, but this did not have the re- merchandise were quite common. It pulsive features about it that one would was a frequent sight to see natives seat- expect. When properly cleaned and cut ed on push carts, together with their up in lumps there was no blood and household effects, being moved from gurry, and on trying it we found that one part of the city to another. Gangs it was as delicious as raw oysters, and of prisoners working on the street, in equally digestible. parti-colored garments, under the charge It was quite common to see natives of a turnkey, were continually on the carrying coffee or tea-pots from Chinese move. It was also the rule to hire out restaurants, somewhat the way some of prisoners to private individuals, as gar- our people "rush the growler" in the deners or chore-men. Amongst the pris- East. Saddle horses appeared to be very oners a few white men were seen, but numerous, and men and women rode they were principally natives or Chinese. equally astride. It did not appear to be Evidently, there was no penitentiary unbecoming for women to ride astride, where prisoners could be kept employed as they had invented a garment for the within walls at the manufacture of mer- purpose. It was wrapped around the chantable wares, as in cities on the main- hips and extended down the inner side land. Uniformed native police and sol- of the leg, and was held in place by the diers appeared to be quite numerous. great toe in the stirrup. Generally they The meat and fish markets seemed to were made of the most brilliant colors be well stocked and well patronized. It to be had, and a cavalcade of native was quite a treat to visit the fish market, women galloping through the streets where both were sold, and watch the made a very pretty sight. manner of selling and delivery of the For a tropical country the markets af- wares. The market was always interest- forded very little variety of fruits. ing, from the great variety of curious Oranges, breadfruit, ohias (mountain ap- and beautifully colored fishes, varieties ples), bananas, and a few guavas, were THE MID-PACIFIC 43 all that was noticeable, whereas in the trict of Kona, on Hawaii, produced a West Indies a hundred kinds of fruit magnificent, aromatic coffee, but it was would be offered. said that the scarcity of hands for pick- There appeared to be considerable ing it and the low prices of Central drunkenness on the streets, and even American and Brazilian coffee, with amongst the native men and women, al- which it would have to contend in the though it was a serious misdemeanor to market, would prevent the industry from furnish liquor to them. The police ap- ever assuming large proportions. peared to be quite active, and on the The principal food of the natives was slightest manifestation of inebriety in a taro (arum esculentum), and it was also sailor, he would be taken to the station used in every home. We studied the cul- house from whence he did not depart un- tivation of it, and found that it was raised til he contributed his share towards the in patches which were diked about with support of the government. earth or stone embankments at great ex- A small foundry and machine shop pense. It was raised in water, that is, seemed to be very busy turning out sugar after the patches were dried up and dug machinery, but it was said that most of up and the tops of the plant set in mud that used on the islands was imported. the water was turned on and it was kept There was a very large fleet of small flooded until nearly ripe, probably 12 or schooners which plied between the isl- 14 months, and then pulled and the tops ands, and one steamer, although for speed cut off for future planting, and the roots the schooners were preferable. Great sold in sacks or made into poi, a paste quantities of produce came in regularly, made by washing, cooking and mashing and the wharves presented a busy sight the taro and mixing with water. It was where these small craft were discharging a very wholesome food, and our travel- their cargoes of oranges, rice, corn, pigs ers liked taro in any form, either as plain and cattle. The natives were great trav- boiled, baked, made into cakes, or as poi. elers, and the decks of these small ves- We soon saw that one could not compete sels appeared to be as full of passengers with the natives in the cultivation of taro, as it was possible. as it required weeding and working as Large quantities of lumber were being well as any other vegetable, and this could piled up along the wharves, and the only be done by wading in mud, the best change from grass houses to frame build- way of doing which was the native style, ings had set in all over the islands. There i. e., naked, with a breech clout on. appeared to be no attempt to export We went over the Pali, the great preci- tropical fruits, nor in fact anything but pice which was said to be the scene of sugar, rice, and whalebone and oil. The Kamehameha First's last battle in subju- discovery of rock oil, or petroleum, and gating the islands, and visited two sugar the numerous uses it could be applied to estates on the Koolau side. At both places in illuminating and for machinery, was we were nicely received, but neither of said to have reduced the price of whale them had accommodations for a white oil, and that industry would cease. The woman. Still, the more we saw of sugar merchants talked over the matter, and it the more we were interested in its cul- did not appear as if there Was anything ture. which could take its place. The Chinese gardens nearly always The rock-bound coast of most of the consisted of several taro patches, dried islands, and the lack of harbors, Hono- up and cultivated by hand, as there was lulu being the only true harbor in the no room for a plow. They paid very high archipelago, gave the impression that the rentals for these lands, especially those cultivation of sugar must be limited. near the city limits, and they packed their Coffee, cotton and tobacco had been tried, produce from door to door, in baskets but for various reasons success in any of carried on long sticks or poles across the them was not prognosticated. The dis- shoulders. We always had admired the 44 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 45
indefatigable industry of the Chinese, but The roads were merely horse-trails, never thought to be brought into compe- and, except one, barely wide enough for tition with it. They worked very hard, running gear. We did not believe that and even in the night might be seen lands which produced so heavy a crop of watering their little vegetable gardens. weeds was poor soil, and judged that it We endeavored to see all we could of was the system of ownership which pre- Honolulu, but there were not many pub- vented them from being cultivated. The lic conveyances. Occasionally we in- duced an old skipper to take us out in a verdant appearance was caused by the rambling old chaise, which looked as if dense growth of the indigo fera anil plant it had come out in the ark, and that Noah, which had been brought over from India himself, just over a drunken spell, was with the expectation of cultivating and driving it. It was a good deal better making indigo. The discovery of the art than staying at home. We climbed to the of making indigo from chemicals had de- top of Punchbowl, from where we ob- stroyed that hope. We tested the soil and tained a magnificent view of the whole found in many places it was but 12 to 18 adjacent country. Far to the west a inches in depth, covering a stratum of charming vista presented. An immense coral. Evidently it had been upheaved field of emerald, at certain parts of which from the sea and was slowly being the sea was enclosed, forming lagoons, covered with alluvion. appeared to afford agricultural possibil- We galloped across the plains to Wai- ities. This great slope was well watered kiki and watched the natives disporting by numerous streams from the range of in the sea. To sit under a hau tree and mountains which was the backbone of the island of Oahu. watch the king and his people riding the On riding over these lands we found surf on boards or in canoes was one of they were only cultivated in the valleys the treats. Surely, of all aquatic sports, or near the margin of the lagoons, and this must be the one which afforded the was told that the balance of the land was greatest amusement. The dexterity with very poor soil and was very shallow. The which they handled their surf-boards, taro, sweet potatoes and bananas which and fearlessness with which they rode throve, so luxuriously in that region, were waves that threatened certain destruction, brought up to the city in boats. was a most fascinating sight to a stranger.
A Typical Hawaiian Scene. 46 THE MID-PACIFIC NM ■ 77 litrh, GOMM ■ ST -a 111.1111111111U A lin I
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Map showing location of Easter Island.
Easter Island
By H. 0. SANDBERG (of Pan-American Union staff)
NCE again the luminous rays of opportunities for expeditions for years the explorer are centered in the to come. 0 direction of Easter Island, the Geographically considered, it lies 27° unsolved mystery of the Pacific. 30' south of the equator, so that it is not For another time the attention of archw- actually within the Tropics. Its position ologists and students of antiquity is is about 2,000 miles from the mainland focused on this little spot, the most east- of South America, and 1,400 miles dis- erly of the Polynesian group of islands. tant from its nearest neighbor, the Pit- Here, in the vast south Pacific Ocean, cairn Islands. Within its limited area, lies this isle, volcanic in character, only triangular in shape, there are three 42 square miles in area, a mere speck of craters of extinct volcanoes, one of them land, about one-fourth the size of Bar- nearly 2,000 feet high. Some of the soil bados, and yet surrounded by a charm is fertile, and the island appears to have of mystery possessed by few places in been wooded at one time, for decayed the world. trunks of considerable . size are still The island merged into the clear light found ; now, however, there thrive only of history early in the eighteenth cen- a few bushes from 10 to 12 feet high. tury, when it was discovered by the The natives grow many sorts of tropical Dutch captain, Jacob Roggeveen, in 1722. fruits, including bananas, sugar cane, He gave to the island its present name and sweet potatoes. Goats, fowl, sheep, in commemoration of the day on which and a fair number of cattle are reared land was sighted. Some 50 years later by the few hundred inhabitants, the sole it was "rediscovered" by some Spanish dwellers today of that mystic land. The sailors. From that time to the present climate is not unlike that of Madeira, day Easter Island has been visited, ex- with one wet and one dry season. The plored, and studied by noted travelers, water supply consists of some brackish scientists, and investigators from all springs by the seashore and pools inside lands, and it promises to afford these the craters of the volcanoes. All in all,
47 48 THE MID-PACIFIC however, the island is considered salu- number of opinions ventured varies in brious and healthful. the same ratio. Progress, as in all mat- The chief interest of the island is to ters of science, is necessarily slow. But be found in the wonderful statues and let us stop for a moment to examine other amazing archaeological remains. these statues, and platforms, and relics, In its narrow and confined expanse it which have excited the student world, encompasses a mystery of vast propor- and to see what they are made of and tions—an engima that has taxed the in- how they were wrought. genuity of scientists quite as much as By actual count there have been found did of old the far-famed riddle of the no less than 550 of these images, most Sphinx. In this tiny island is a re- of which are cut out of gray trachitic markable display of hundreds of sculp- lava. Of this number, 40 are standing tured statues, colossal in size, and erected inside the crater of one of the volcanoes, upon cyclopean masonry ; stone houses and as many more outside, at the foot over 100 feet in length with walls 6 feet of the slope, where they were placed in thickness built like forts ; and tablets ready for removal to the different plat- curiously inscribed with hieroglyphics in forms. These statues, moreover, repre- no way resembling anything else in the sent various stages of formation—some world, doubtless the written language of of them finished, others nearly com- the ancient inhabitants, but one to which pleted, and still others barely com- the key has been lost. menced. In size they range from 3 to 4 Remarkable as all of these ruins are feet to nearly 80 feet in length. The from the strangeness of their appear- largest image, found in an unfinished ance, the greatest interest and the great- state, measures 70 feet in length ; the est problem which they present to us is smallest is little short of 3 feel in length. the story that they might tell of the van- Although these figures range in size ished civilization which erected them. from the colossus of 70 feet down to That they are of prehistoric origin can the pigmy of 3 feet, they clearly are all not be questioned, but who were the of the same type and general character- builders of these wonderful specimens ? istics. The head is long and the eyes What race of men or giants carved and close under the heavy brows ; the nose placed in their present position the ti- large, low bridged, and very broad at tanic stone heads that stand out in lonely the nostrils ; the upper lip short, and the majesty amid the barren wastes of this lips pouting. The head is nearly always lonely little isle? Whence came these tilted backward. The lower part of the ancient workers in stone, and whither face is broad and heavy, but imperfectly have they gone? What tools did they formed, the ears are long and pendant. use to execute these singular statues and The forms generally ended at the buildings, and in what epoch did they shoulders or at the waist, very little perform these curiosities? work being done below these points. One Such fascinating questions and many of the lesser statues has been brought to others equally pertinent present them- the National Museum at Washington, selves to the student, but, alas, the an- D. C., while another is on exhibition at swer is yet to be had. Archaeologists the British Museum in London. must continue for a while longer to delve The striking feature about these fig- among the enshrouded mysteries of ures is the strange facial expression de- these ruins before they can reveal the scribed as "profoundly solemn," "dis- true story of this world's wonderland. dainful," and with "look of superc At present the chapters which have been scorn." written on the subject are comparatively The head was in all cases cut flat on few in number, and not conspicuously top to accommodate an immense crown definite in context. Conjectures are as of red vesicular tuff, many of which many as there are explorers, and the were found. Subsequent discoveries on THE MID-PACIFIC 49
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One of the wooden tablets from Easter Island. the island have brought to light head- task. But where did this large popula- dresses of real feathers, made up as tion come from? Were Easter Island a crowns, coronets, and other shapes. The continental land with ease of access, finding of these feather decorations such an ample labor supply might have which were used for ceremonial pur- been available. But its geographic posi- poses has given strength to the belief tion precludes this possibility. Therefore that the immense stone crowns which another explanation must be sought. were superimposed on the heads of the Now, nearly all students agree on one statues were intended to represent these point, and that is that the present terri- feathered Ornaments. torial limitations of the place could not How these immense statues were cut have harbored a very large number of out of their position inside the crater of inhabitants. First, there is no adequate the volcano and transported several water supply ; and, secondly, there is not miles to their respective platforms is one the area from which to win a sufficient of the mysteries left for us to puzzle food supply. This, then, suggests the over. As for tools, a rude form of theory, and one that is open to reason- stone chisel is the only kind of ancient able refutation, that Easter Island is the implement thus far found. sole remnant of a greater land which It is also remarkable that of the many was overwhelmed by the sea after a hundreds of images scattered through- serious seismic disturbance. out the island there is but one that Another speculation offered by a noted stands in its original position upon a traveler is of particular interest because platform, while the others are heedlessly of the connection which he endeavors to strewn about. To some this fact seems point out between these ruins and those conclusive proof that work on these huge found in the highlands of Peru and productions ceased suddenly. But what Bolivia. This archaeologist develops the caused the work to be so suddenly ar- theory that the ancient peoples of Easter rested? Did some volcanic eruption Island were the same race that centuries overtake the island? Such a conjecture afterwards laid the foundations of the is, indeed, not unreasonable, for closer empires of the Incas and the Aztecs. investigation shows that some of the These people, he continues, reached largest statues are buried to the neck in Easter Island from the Asian coast by ash and scoria. But who can say with traveling from one island to another certainty? across the intervening ocean and finally Viewing the relics on the island in found their way to the American Con- their entirety, however, one is impressed tinent over land that has since disap- with the fact that when they were car- peared beneath the waters of the Pacific. ried out a large population of skilled This theory, important if true, is, how- men must have concentrated upon the ever, subject to objections. In a careful
4—M. P. 50 THE MID-PACIFIC study of the Malayo-Polynesian archw- of them except in a vague way that they ology and languages, embracing a period contain the historic annals of their peo- of nearly 30 years, the noted botanist ples. Several of these wooden tablets and ethnologist, Prof. W. E. Safford, of have been secured from the island and the United States Department of Agri- are on exhibition in the museums at San- culture, makes the unqualified assertion tiago, Chile, and at Washington, D. C. that in all his attempts to trace a con- One particular feature was emphasized nection between the ancient relics of the by Prof. Safford in an interview which Incas and Aztecs with those of the Poly- the writer had with him on the subject nesians, he has failed to find sufficient of the language of the island. He de- points of similarity to justify even such clared that a careful study of the lan- a possible relation. So the mystery con- guage of the modern natives shows it to tinues and the origin of the workers of be essentially Polynesian without any Easter Island is yet to be learned. vestige of foreign domination, but the Other remains on the island are im- most remarkable thing is its very close mense platforms of large flat stones, similarity to the language of the Ha- their joints fitted together without mor- waiians. Nearly all of the words, by tar. It was on these platforms that the certain fixed laws or changes, cOrild be statues were placed. On another part of converted from the Easter Island lan- the island there are remains of stone guage to that of Hawaii with similar houses, some of them nearly 100 feet meanings ; even some of the ancient gods\ long, also built without mortar, with the of Easter Island bear the same names walls formed of large flat stones, about as Hawaiian gods. And yet these has 5 feet thick, and over 5 feet high. The been no connection between these two interior chambers of these houses are islands, at least not in historic times, lined with upright slabs painted with and what is stranger still, these two geometrical figures and pictures of groups are separated from each other by strange-looking animals. an interval of 2,000 miles. This unusual Wooden tablets have also been dis- constancy in the language of both is covered incised with hieroglyphics. probably due to the fact that they had These writings read from left to right ; no near neighbors and no intrusions of then it is necessary to turn the tablet people speaking a language different upside down and continue reading from from their own. He also expressed the left to right, repeating this process until opinion that the carvers of the images the inscription is concluded. Figures of were the ancestors of the modern in- men, animals, geometric designs, consti- habitants, and that all the elements of tute the alphabet. Though these incised the archaeology of the islands except the tablets have not been deciphered, there wonderful hieroglyphics are character- is a general belief that they contain the istically Polynesian. ancient myths of the race which inhabi- Despite these slight hints, the present ted the land. Some assert that it is .not status of the island offers no further en- so very long ago that there were those couragement for solution. It persists in on the island who might have been able keeping fastened its heavy cloak of mys- to read them. It should be recalled that tery. With solemn impressiveness the up to 1864 there were several thousand relics and ruins stand in foreboding inhabitants on Easter Island, but large silence, as if to defy the eager pursuer numbers of them were taken from there for truth from unraveling its innermost and put to work in the guano diggings secrets. But • the archaeological world on the Chincha Islands. Amongst those has accepted this silent challenge, and it is though there were many who knew notable expeditions have gone forth the written language as appearing on lured by the charm of mystery and have the tablets. But the present inhabitants, returned with interesting data. less than 200 in number, know nothing The latest to be inspired with a desire THE MID-PACIFIC 51 to resolve the riddle and perhaps write iary yacht. The expedition is enthused the final chapter of this story is an Eng- over the prospects of gaining new light lish traveler, Mr. W. Scoresby, who, ac- upon the problem which has baffled us companied by a staff, under the direction for close to two centuries. Now all eyes of the British Museum, recently set sail are turned toward this quest and reports in a specially constructed motor-auxil- will be eagerly awaited.
Stone image from Easter Island in the National Museum at Washington, D. C. 52 THE MID-PACIFIC The first year.
■ ■ The Portuguese in Hawaii
By A. D. CASTRO
ISTORY tells us that in 1550 navigators of the world, who centered Antonio Galvao, a Portuguese their quarters at Lisbon and other penin- H navigator, proposed to Charles sula points, joined Galvao in explaining V. of Spain, the building of the to the powers , how advantageous the Isthmian canal. He proposed this be- shortening of the long all-water route cause he realized that an avenue across around the Horn to the Pacific would the Western Continent would enable be to all, but principally to the leading Spain and Portugal to send ships and maritime nations. men into the unexplored regions of the Galvao's idea was revived in 1780 by Pacific with less navigation restrictions Nelson, and in 1804 by Humboldt ; and and difficulties and would also facilitate Spain, in 1814, decided to undertake the the development of commerce and trade work, but failed—perhaps because the between countries adjoining the Atlantic Isthmus was snatched from the control and the Pacific. He was, however, of the Dons in 1821. It was at this sternly suppressed because the idea time that the powers realized the strong which he conceived wa's at that time con- power of conception which Galvao pos- sidered a dream. It was too big a prop- sessed. Since the revival of the project osition for the monarchs of those days recently the Portuguese people have to undertake, even though the leading watched the progress of the canal work
53 54 THE MID-PACIFIC with great interest. When in 1915 the education and in most cases, upon com- American flag floats from the maintop pleting their courses, would remain of huge battleships steaming through the away. Today, however, the young re- canal that will then unite the oceans, the ceive their education here, and of those all-water route from New York to San who go away for professional training Francisco shortened 7808 miles, the most return fully satisfied that the Portuguese people will again look at Americanization of these Islands affords Galvao's picture, ponder over his pro- them as much opportunity here, in their posal to King Charles V., and exclaim : respective walks of life, as elsewhere. "Thus is achieved the realization of the The rising generation is training itself dream of Antonio Galvao !" for an American life, not only in the This historical fact brings the Portu- social line but in all the spheres of citi- guese in close relation with the history zenship and in the pursuits of industry, of the Isthmian canal, particularly when commerce and trade. we consider that they were of the first With the development of this Terri- who established commerce between the tory has come the growth of American Old and New Worlds. Considering that ideals among the Portuguese. Their po at present we have on the Pacific Coast sition in relation to the commerce and and in Hawaii thousands of Portuguese trade must be considered as of import- greatly interested in the trade and com- ance, if proper appreciation of their ad- merce of our country, we can well en- vancement be shown. It has taken prac- tertain a statement concerning their so- tically one quarter of a century to foster cial position and economic condition, as among them enough men and women to well as their relation to the industrial sustain the excellent qualities which have development of the Hawaiian Islands. always characterized them. Unfortu- There has never been a time in the nately, in the past, by reason of illiteracy history of these Islands when so much on the part of the first groups which interest was taken by the Portuguese in came here, the Portuguese could not in- commercial and industrial conditions as telligently assimilate in affairs with the at present. In the past it was almost a English-speaking elements ; thus their general rule among them to devote a social intercourse with other whites has number of years toward hard work, save been materially retarded. This day hap- every dollar possible, and, when their pily tells another fact ; while true it may savings warranted, leave Hawaii for the be that the whole number is not as yet mainland or for their native country. familiar with the language and traits of Today, however, thirty-seven years since the American, there are however, the they first began to settle here, condi- very many who must be considered active tions are differently observed. It is a and useful members of our community. fact that, of those who left for either the While they in the past, as a class, con- mainland or their native country form- stituted but a laboring element and an erly, some were of the best element, immaterial factor in the sphere of po- while of those that leave now, but few litical life, they struggled with difficulty are of the enterprising class, most of in order to receive, at the hands of the them being of the disgruntled class. powers that were, some recognition of Formerly young men went away for their value. Today this is not so, for, al- THE MID-PACIFIC JJ
In the early days on the plantation. though there may be a tendency on the ties. The greater portion have learned part of men in power to disregard the that the people of a community need not usefulness of our Portuguese-Americans, be of one blood so as to .make it strong withal, nothing but a fraternal feeling is —it is the need of but one mind. entertained. The duty of self-reliance They have, since some years ago, be- has been imbued in them and, in the gun to affiliate in organizations of pub- mood of blessed human beings, they en- lic good outside of their own, and have deavor to perform their duty as citizens, likewise maintained, for the welfare of while time and evolution bring changes their own people, valuable and strong in conditions and positions of men. institutions which contribute annually During the last decade a distinct thousands of dollars to aid the sick, the change has taken place in their social fatherless, and the homeless. In their life. Before these Islands were annexed work connected with the maintenance of to the United States, the principle of these institutions they perform a great uniting all races here in one common- service to the community at large, for in wealth and one political community was so doing they provide against their own unknown and far from adoption, and poor becoming a burden to the com- for this reason the Portuguese, like munity. other races, maintained their social po- Today, more than ever, they are build- sition within their own bounds. Today ing homes throughout the Territory, and we find that their social life is not con- particularly on the Island of Oahu. In fined to their own number alone ; they Honolulu some of the pretty homes are endeavor to promote social relations with owned by Portuguese-Americans, and all other elements of sound moral quali- many more are in course of construction. 56 THE MID-PACIFIC
In homes alone, in Hawaii, the Portu- ties of industriousness and self-reliance. guese have invested three millions of They are a saving people, and seek the dollars. The rising generation,—more privilege of localizing themselves ; in so than the older,—has learned to appre- doing they take a step in the direction ciate the comfort and happiness which of full and free citizenship. A goodly can be obtained by them in possessing sum saved up adds to their social value, their own homes ; thus we see numer- but that value is greatly enhanced by ex- ous dwellings of artistic designs going changing it for good homes. up in all parts of the cities of Honolulu Their relation to the present labor and Hilo. situation in Hawaii is acute, more so Many have turned their attention and since the local government, through its investments to farms and homesteads. In Board of Immigration, has authorized recent years many have secured from the expenditure of thousands of dollars the Territorial government parcels of abroad and in connection with the mis- land for homesteading purposes, and in sion to bring more Portuguese laborers connection therewith have spent and in- here from their native country. The lo- vested large sums in utilizing their hold- cal labor situation presents conditions ings. According to official figures, the which make it obvious that the scarcity Portuguese in Hawaii own real and per- of working hands must be remedied by sonal property valued at over four mil- them and other Europeans adapted to lion dollars. field work. It therefore appears import- They have deposited in the banks over ant to the employers of labor that they one million of dollars. Considering that settle and remain here. It also appears the older element have spent most of important that the employers of labor their time and earnings in bringing up and the local government should en- and educating their children, the figures deavor to maintain closer relations be- above given must be considered, in the tween the two elements. light of things, a proof and indication of Portugal abroad, since the inaugura- the frugalness and economic efforts tion of the republican form of govern- which they employ in their conduct. ment, has given Hawaii some attention If a student of economic and industrial in regard to the relations which its peo- principles were to take a position on a ple here are enjoying with the dominant high pedestal and survey with care how elements. It hates to be told that its hard it has been for the Portuguese la- sons in Hawaii are mere laborers—it borer to live and maintain a family in wants to know how far in commercial the plantation districts and consider his confidence they are held by all. With present conditions, as well as the general the opening of the Isthmian Canal there condition of the number in Hawaii, he is a possibility of the commerce and would wonder how it has been possible trade of Portugal extending to Hawaii. to make so much of so little. This fact The canal will facilitate the traversing of few men have learned to appreciate. the oceans, and the large number of peo- Their greater number are wage-earn- ple, both here and on the Coast, will ers, and 25 per cent. of them are labor- justify the promotion of commercial re- eis on the plantations. As laborers they lations between the two countries. have, since long ago, proven their quali- Should Portugal realize the contemplated THE MID-PACIFIC commercial plans, Hawaii will be a cen- ganizations, it says to the world that it ter of interest to that republic. Already is now enjoying tranquility, development the commercial bodies of that country and progress. It has already sent forth have considered propositions by which to its scattered subjects patriotic greet- to obtain full information of this Terri- ings, and has invited the general co- tory in respect to market possibilities. operation of all Portuguese subjects and That country, desirious of effecting com- descendants to participate in the re- mercial intercourse with all countries, is now striving to make its political posi- establishment of the high honor and tion known abroad. In a recent state- credit of the Portuguese people which, ment published by authority of four of by reason of the royal inefficiency, had its leading commercial and industrial or almost disappeared.
A few years later. 58 THE MID-PACIFIC
■ ■
Pete and Bout, two birds of Australia that laugh like human be- ings. They are called Laughing Jackasses, or Kookooburra, and their human peals of merriment may be heard at sunset in the bush throughout Australia. A Mutton Bird.
Two Birds of Australia
By MARY SALMON
HE Kookooburra (fittingly dub- fact, never stays far from it—and heavy bed the Laughing Jackass) is timber, the loftier the better. T characteristic of the Australian It seems hard to associate the quaint, bush. Whether it be in the bluff, big-headed, thick-billed Kookoo- coastal gullies, on the inland rivers, or burra with the dainty family of king- the far away western plains, wherever fishers, about which are woven such a there is water and timber, the hilarious variety of legends and superstitions, both cachinations of the jackass are among classical and mediaeval. Their bright the earliest sounds that greet the first colors seem to be the very reverse of the sweet breath of morn. And the Koo- jackass, whose enormous head, stout kooburra has scarcely yielded to the build, and homely plumage suggest a rapid march forward of settlement and quite different species. Nevertheless, progress, for he is equally at home the Kookoohurra is a kingfisher, its sci- an the orchards and farms as on entific name being Dacelo gigas. With the banks of the Darling or Diamentina other members of the sub-family Dacelo- Rivers. Water in quantity he likes—in ninae it is joined with the order Alce-
59 60 THE MID-PACIFIC
dinidae. In Australia it is afforded legal gether there are identified 125 species of protection on the supposition that it ef- kingfishers in various parts of the world. fects a considerable reduction in the As the Kookooburra is characteristic snake population, a reputation which of the Australian bush, so the Mutton does not seem to bear very close exami- bird is characteristic of the Australian nation. Popular belief pictures the Koo- coast. Once a year the Mutton bird re- kooburra darting down upon snakes of ceives callers in his main haunt in Phillip considerable size, bearing their wriggling Island, and more than a thousand people forms to considerable heights, from visit Phillip Island on egging day, which which they are dropped to earth, only to event occurs annually on November 26, be borne aloft again and dropped as be- and the season continues until the eggs fore. They do certainly eat snakes, but are all collected, and the birds are se- only small ones. Since, however, all cured for their oil, feathers, and as a snakes must be small at some period of food for such people who have acquired their life, it would still be quite possible a taste for this fishy flavored bird. for the Kookooburra to live up to its From the early days of whalers and reputation, but for the fact that its staple settlers the Mutton bird has been greatly diet consists of small lizards. They also sought, and although neither the feath- feed upon grasshoppers, small fish, mice, ers nor the oil are now in the same de- beetles, worms, frogs, crayfish, etc., just mand as in former years, yet Mutton- as do the smaller Leach's kingfisher. In- bird catching may still be classed among deed, the latter has been noticed feeding the smaller side industries of the Austra- its young on a tree snake, 18 inches long. lian waters, more especially of the coast and a frilled lizard, about a foot long, of of Tasmania and in Phillip Island, the course dissected for the occasion. most northerly of the Furneaux group, For so small a bird, the volume of in Bass Straits. Towards autumn we sound emitted by the Kookooburra is may see in two or three shops in Sydney great, which is the more remarkable a few strings of smoked and salted from the fact that it is not harsh or grat- Mutton-birds offered for sale, and a ing. Indeed, although it is not in any merchant here said he got them chiefly. way musical, the cry of the Kookooburra for regular customers who looked for- is decidedly pleasant. Seen as he sits on ward to Mutton-birds as a delicacy. To some leafless tree, solid and solemn, with the ordinary untrained palate they are his overgrown head,. large eyes, and greasy, salt, and have a peculiar flavor dusty brown plumage, it seems hard to of smoke and fish. They are usually conceive that he should be the author of grilled, when the fat is got rid of and the peals of laughter which are show- there is a good quantity of substantial ered round us in the early morning light. flesh. Taken for all in all, he is a very useful For some years Phillip Island has be- bird, outside of his alleged propensity come a tourists' resort, and in the season for reptiles. Many insects fall victims there is a great difficulty in getting ac- to his rapacity, especially grasshoppers, commodation at the boarding houses that although it must take many birds to ef- are springing up in order to cope with fect a sensible depreciation in the num- the demands of visitors. Like many bers of these destructive insects in other "seasonal" industries, there is a plague time. While he sits solemnly on regular class that take up the work ; and the tree, his bright eyes are searching the picture of the camps shows how for the insects on which he loves to feed. some families free-select a spot for a and upon which he darts the moment a temporary home and turn "egging" into favorable opportunity seems to occur. an employment that also provides a Allied forms of kingfishers to the Da- profitable holiday for a man and his celo gigas in Australia are D. Leachi, family. D. cervina, and D. occidentals. Alto- Cape Woolamai is looked upon as the THE MID-PACIFIC 61 place where the greatest number of over their nests they whirl and swoop, nests are to be found ; and it is, at the searching for their 'own nest. The din same time, the most romantically wild they make fills the air for miles around. and picturesque spot, the cliffs rising up The explorer Flinders was the first to in abrupt peaks of a deep heavy hue, comment upon this annual invasion. He showing against the translucent blue of says, "A stream of petrels was ob- the ocean and the white foam round the served 30 to 80 yards in depth and 300 rocks like some turreted castles. All the yards in breadth ; the number could not islands in the straits however, are uti- have been less than 100 millions." In lized by these migrating birds for rook- spite of the annual massacre of thou- eries, Chippell Island being especially fa- sands of birds and the wholesale taking vored, as the flat position of the ground, away of eggs, the numbers do not de- with its tufts of tussock saltbush, affords crease, but year by year the same num- , a safe shelter for the birds, who only ber apparently come, and in the autumn make burrows when necessary, the nests they leave as suddenly, to go—no one is almost flat with the earth being hidden quite certain whither—but the warmer everywhere along the centre of this isl- seas of Japan and round China possibly and. Flinders Island has, ever since the receive them. earliest known time, been the greatest Every female bird only lays one egg, home for these birds. Here a high ridge which is two inches long and about an of land hummocks stretches from the inch in width, being white in color. The sea shore, alternating with clumps of albuminous part is very great ; and it is sheltering trees ; and for fully 5 miles a curious fact that no matter how much the ground is burrowed by holes not un- the egg is boiled, the yolk' and part of like rabbit warrens, of from one to eig:i the white remains soft and rather watery. feet in depth, and quite close together. When the young one is hatched, both Here generations upon generations of parents attend to its commisariat, a con- birds have made their home. sequence being that it soon becomes too Every years they come on September fat to leave the nest, and can only wob- 13, in great flocks and spring-clean their ble feebly about. Then the parents en- new homes, furnishing them with tus- tirely forsake it, and for some days it re- sock grass and reeds, also taking careful mains uncared for, until hunger makes note of their prospective addresses, for it try to fly and seek some food. It one Mutton-bird does not do renovations stays so long waiting for the return of a for some other tenant. Then they go parent with provisions that it becomes a seawards again in pairs, returning in- mere transparent skin over bones. Then variably on November 24. There may it makes awkward attempts at aerial bal- be a few late arrivals, but none are ance to find that it must take in to its previous enough to come before the stomach a cargo of small stones as bal- above mentioned date. They arrive about last and, getting up on a projecting rock, sundown, and those on the watch say tries its first flight. they first see the dark cloud-like line in Egging is a rather dangerous employ- the sky, which seems to gather size and ment, and at first, according to mission- shape as it advances. Although they ary Walker, was principally undertaken come on in almost regular line, when by the gins of the aboriginal tribes in the 62 THE MID-PACIFIC islands. Now men go "egging" during lubricating machinery and other such the season, furnished with a hooked purposes. Twenty birds give a gallon of stick, as, where the egg is hidden there oil, worth about 3s 6d. may lurk a black snake also, and it is From November until April the birds folly to thrust one's hand into a dark are more or less to be found on the isl- underground hole. These holes also and, and the young birds do not leave are very dangerous underfoot, as a the nest until about the end of March, sprained ankle is no uncommon result of when they are a ball of tallow (hence, novices trying the game of egg-gather- some say, the name). Fishing for birds ing. But the man of experience selects is a favorite pastime. A fishing rod 8ft his footpath on the tussocks of grass and long, with a hook at the end, is let down treads with caution even then. The into the nest and drawn backwards and young birds are those usually selected forwards until the bird is hooked. They for food, and after being killed, are hung are then placed head downwards, and beak downwards on a long skewer-like the neck is broken, the oil being also stick for some of the oil to drip away. squeezed out of them. Pickled birds are The color of the Mutton-bird (or smoky worth lOs a hundred or thereabouts. petrel) is gray when young, but, as it Some years ago a number of Chinese grows old, it becomes a dusty dull black, settled on Phillip Island for the season, hence its name. It was called the "Mut- and gathered eggs and boiled down birds ton" bird because, in comparison to for the oil. After several seasons the other sea-coast birds, it has such a quan- industry was given up, and although in tity of solid flesh upon it. their last season 15,000 gallons of oil The birds suitable for food are clean- was got, no one took over the work to ed and plucked, dipped in salt water, any great extent. then sprinkled with salt, and smoked. Of late, however, tourists who go to An amateur camper who only collected San Remo, where there is a very pictur- for his own family said he dipped his esque beach, and where crowds of sum- birds into very strong coffee, which mer visitors congregate, also from other proved a fine preservative. In Tasmania parts of Western Port Bay, Victoria, the feathers are sold for 2d a pound, saw the possible excitement of a visit to and it takes 25 birds to yield 1 pound of Flinders Island during the season. The soft feathers ; therefore, one can scarcely Naturalists' Society of Victoria set the call the industry lucrative, but there are example of a camping party which left people who regularly go over to the isl- Melbourne by train to Franston, then ands feather-getting. proceeded by a covered dray with five A large pit, lined with sacking, is horses, reached Western Bay, and cross- made, and bush barricades keep the birds ed by the fishing smack Antelope to from escaping ; then, with sticks, the Phillip Island. There they put up tents hunters drive them into the pit, where and stayed for a week, securing many they are either smothered, or are hit specimens, and finding 43 different kinds over the head and stunned. Then they of sea birds on the island. They were are stripped, the oil is taken, and the present at an "egging,' and noted the carcasses are thrown away. The oil, like habits of the Mutton bird. A very in- the feathers, is rank, but is used for teresting paper on the experiences was THE MID-PACIFIC (.;3 published, and ever since then Phillip dren, when a whole covey would unite Island has enjoyed the kudos of being a to protect their nests. They are very most enjoyable seaside resort, where Na- fierce, and their bite is quite severe. ture and natural objects may be ob- Sometimes they fight among themselves, served, and where civilization has not noise being a prominent feature of their set so firm a footing as to eliminate free- frays. Being very heavy, and having dom from artificial restraints. long unwieldy wings, their flight is diffi- Wherever there are south coast abori- cult of starting, and they flap about until gines or half-castes, the Mutton-bird is they find a mounting place. Once in the regarded as a prize in the way of food. air, however, they move quickly and A writer speaks of early fights between evenly, keeping the line like a regiment infuriated Mutton birds and black chil- of soldiers.
Eggs of the Mutton Bird. 64 THE MID-PACIFIC
Pearl Harbor, the Gibraltar of the Pacific, contrary to popular be- lief, is a series of calm lochs in a level plain, an ideal cruising ground for yachts, although it might float the navies of the world. The nearest mountains are several miles away and rise abruptly. Beginning the great dry dock.
The New Pearl Harbor
By A. P. TAYLOR
AA,T HERE a century ago Hawai- Oahu, up a wide, deep and almost 1 ian outrigger canoes drifted straight channel to the inner lochs which over the still, deep waters of spread out fleur-de-lis-wise where broad Pearl Harbor in the peaceful basins have been dredged and enlarged pursuit of the fisherman's calling, and until whole squadrons of the greatest only occasionally double war canoes of warships extant may float with hardly a fighting chiefs of ancient Hawaii sped to ripple of the inland waters to disturb the the paddling of bronze-hued warriors, even keel of the captain's gig. dreadnaughts, superdreadnaughts, ar- For seventy years, ever since wooden- mored cruisers and the vast fleets of les- walled warships of the old navy, with ser craft of the American navy may now their great clouds of canvas, called at steam from the open sea off the coast of Honolulu on long, wearisome and mo-
5-M. P. 65 66 THE MID-PACIFIC notonous cruises around the world . sular military and naval outpost of the American naval officers have declared United States. that Pearl Harbor presented a natural Ten million dollars is the sum which naval base, and upon the shores of the the naval engineers estimated as the cost lochs could be established a coaling and of preparing Pearl Harbor's waterways repairing base which would be invalu- and adjoining shores for the establish- able to any power fortunate enough to ment of a naval base, designed to be the gain possession. Admirals, commodores. greatest and most modern under the flag. captains and lieutenants without number Ten million dollars will not represent have never deviated from this recom- all that the station will cost, and twice mendation. In the days of sailing war- that many millions may more correctly ships the actualities of dredging did not represent the total final cost to the gov- enter into their calculations as in these ernment. The dredging of the bar, later days of deep-draught, steel-enclosed channel and lochs will represent more fighting machines, and only in the last than $3,000,000; the drydock will repre- twenty-five years has the question of sent about $4,000,000 ; the splendid ad- dredging become a serious problem. Al- ministration and industrial buildings, the though Pearl Harbor was recognized as modern systems of water, lighting, elec- a natural site for a naval base, yet the trical communication, sewers, roadways, entrance from the sea over the coral bar railways, seawalls, hospital, wireless and up the tortuous channel presented station, magazines, wharves and the bar- grave difficulties to successful naviga- racks for marines, will, in the end, re- tion. They have all been solved, and th quire millions to complete. American Navy department is prepared Ten years ago an attempt was mad to declare the bar, channel and each loch to dredge the bar, and a dredger was lost navigable to the greatest superdread- and the contractors faced financial fail- naughts afloat. ure. Time and again the attempt was Far-sighted officers were upon the made to cut the channel, but a Hawaiian rolls of the American navy seventy, company tackled this greatest of works eighty and ninety years ago, men with next in importance to that at Panama prophetic minds, who closely observed and Christmas Day, 1911, saw the vast geographical advantages on their cruises, work completed. yet it seems strange that there should Upon the shores of the inner basin the have been such a unanimity of opinion great dreadnaught drydock basin has with regard to Pearl Harbor, for all been excavated, and the engineers are agreed that the base, if ever developed facing another problem, and solving it, and established, should come into being which did not enter into their calcula- only under the American flag. When tions. The drydock basin is excavated the centennial of the American nation's out of coral and clay strata. When the birth was celebrated, the American gov- first section of the excavation was en- ernment entered into a reciprocity treaty closed with false cribwork and the with the then Kingdom of Hawaii, pumps began to reduce the water, the whereby the monarchy ceded to America floor gradually began to rise. for use as a coaling base the great Pearl Little did the national lawmakers Harbor basins, in exchange for the priv- dream when they passed the joint reso- ilege of shipping raw Hawaiian-grown lution of Congress in July, 1898, annex- sugars into the United States, free of ing the Hawaiian Islands to the United duty. But none of the naval officers of States, that by that act they laid the half a century and more ago dreamed basis of the future base at Pearl Harbor that one day the Hawaiian Islands would which is to command the admiration of become a Territory of the United States the world ; a station which will be re- and Pearl Harbor would be only an in- spected by those powers which concede tegral part of the magnificent new in- that the Hawaiian Islands are the "Key THE MID-PACIFIC 67
to the Pacific," and Pearl Harbor the ed, to widen and straighten the channel very center of armed protection to the and reduce the shallowness of the bar at Pacific Coast of the American Republic. the sea entrance, working with the me- But there is the navy yard in reality not chanical arms of the dredging machines eight miles from Honolulu, in process which have dug out and crushed the of formation, arising from a desolate, flint-like coral formation for three years, lantana-covered stretch of coral and lava night and day, until where only the di- surface bordering upon the wonderful minutive gunboat Petrel was able to Pearl lochs. Within a cable's length of steam into Pearl Harbor in January, the moorings of the battleships will be 1903, and anchor safely on the broad the gates of one of the finest types of bosom of the inner harbor, battleships drydocks in the world, whose capacity and cruisers may now anchor in the will be far in excess of the bulk of the deepest of deep water opposite the 820- greatest superdreadnaught for years to foot drydock. This vast work under come, for the size of the Panama Canal water gives no approximate idea of how and locks will have a bearing upon the the millions have been spent or how the size of future warships and compel na- hundreds of American citizens have been tions to keep them down to a certain laboring incessantly. length. The American people little real- A document was recently found in a ize the importance of the harbor until camphorwood chest stored in the American warships are placed on guard Archives building of the Territory of against a hostile fleet, and then its in- Hawaii in Honolulu, which was written estimable value will be given a practical aboard the famous old wooden frigate demonstration, for out of that harbor Constitution—the "Old Ironsides" of in the middle of the Pacific, the very prose and poetry—by Lieut. I. W. Curtis, crossroads of the vast breadth of the sea U. S. N., addressed to Hon. G. P. Judd, on which border the nations of the two Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Ha- Americas, Asia and the great continents waiian Kingdom, in which the naval of- of the South Seas, may issue fleets abso- ficer unfolded a plan to fortify Pearl lute in their power and equipment to in- Harbor, as well as Honolulu. He dwelt tercept armed squadrons whose aim is upon the importance of Martel towers, the long and poorly protected Pacific Paixhan guns of the caliber of ten-inch slope, a harbor to which its own maimed shells and sixty-pound shot. "Allow me and unsupplied warships may retire for to call your attention to the importance repairs, equipment, reinforcements and of Pearl Harbor," wrote the officer, "the supplies. perfect security of the harbor, the excel- The millions and millions of people liv- lence of its water, the perfect ease with ing under the American flag may not which it can be made one of the finest comprehend the value of the millions of places in the Islands, all of which com- dollars being expended in and near those bine to make it a great consideration. lochs, for the navy department has been While the harbor was clearing out, forti- carrying on its work silently but surely, fications could be built, troops could be working beneath the waters of the chan- drilled, the forts might be garrisoned, nel and lochs, to deepen where neces- government storehouses built. The sary, to fill in where navigation demand- amount of money to be expended will be 68 THE MID-PACIFIC but a feather in comparison with the al- Russy, Waikiki beach, on the Diamond most incalculable amount of wealth that Head side of the harbor of Honolulu. will result upon the completion of these Pearl Harbor will be a magnificent objects." rendezvous in the mid-Pacific for the Not a single line of that report has American navy, and the wisdom of its been disregarded by the latter-day naval creation, in the light of events making officials. Every word has shown that the Pacific Ocean the one in which world Lieutenant Curtis had a grasp of the powers are competing for commercial situation which would seem tinged with and military mastery, becomes clearer prophecy. While the channel has been and clearer the more one studies the clearing, fortifications have been built by situation. Hawaii is so situated in the the army on a reservation adjoining the Pacific that it is the natural center of naval reservation, fortifications which converging transoceanic lines, whether mount twelve-inch guns, while another from the Panama ship canal, or Ameri- is in course of construction for large can, Australian or Asiatic ports border- caliber mortars of the most powerful ing on the Pacific. By the creation of a and modern type ; troops are drilling all great naval base, properly protected by over the Island of Oahu in six separate fortresses, and a powerful naval force in army posts, and the garrisons are gradu- this ocean, the American mainland will ally being increased until ten thousand practically command the Pacific against men may be stationed on the Island of any Asiatic or other power. Pearl Har- Oahu alone, exclusive of the naval and bor will be a protection for billions in marine force which is to be maintained. national values. It will add to the equip- Government storehouses are about to be ment of the United States for the enter- built at Pearl Harbor. prises of peace as well as the necessities The Secretary of the Navy in 1909 of war. The establishment of a power- estimated the cost of the station would ful fleet at the Hawaiian Islands makes be $13,000,000, and the Secretary of War an oversea attack on any part of the announced that the need for large gar- American coast too dangerous to be at- risons of troops was urgent. Up to that tempted. time Congress had appropriated about Pearl Harbor occupies a site amid beau- $3,000,000 for fortifications in and near tiful surroundings. Rising from its banks Honolulu and at Pearl Harbor. Fort and extending far back into the moun- Kamehameha was built on the army tains are tens of thousands of acres of reservation, the guns mounted and the sugar cane and pineapple fields. The batteries are in readiness for manning cane reaches up to the slopes of the Koo- and to repel invaders, the fortifications lau ridge, the summits of which are al- being constructed on the most modern most impassable to man or beast, while plans, utilizing reinforced concrete con- on the other side of this backbone are struction throughout. This fort is lo- sheer precipices, physical features which cated on the outer edge of the lip of land have been taken cognizance of by both adjoining the naval reservation, and the war and navy departments, for few commands not only the entrance to Pearl landings of armed parties can be suc- Harbor, but adds a cross-fire with the cessfully made on the other side of the 14-inch guns to be erected at Fort De island. From Diamond Head, a pictur- THE MID-PACIFIC 69 esque extinct crater at Waikiki, Hono- guards the entrance to Honolulu harbor, lulu, on whose slopes has been con- and Fort Kamehameha guards the en- structed the most powerful mortar bat- trance to Pearl Harbor. Oahu is forti- tery of the American army, to Pearl fied in a manner to make it one of the Harbor, is a chain of fortifications. Fort most impregnable garrisoned places in De Russy lies on the shore of beautiful the world. Its drydock will care for Waikiki bay, the summer resort all the the greatest war vessels built. Its gar- year round of tourists, and kamaainas. risons .will be the greatest under the flag. where the bathing is unexcelled from The United States is now well prepared January to December. Fort Armstrong to defend these islands.
Where the fleet will anchor. 70
. II E NI N
.j..- 4.r—i.:, — , , '' • - , ,-, THE MID-PACIFIC -' t • '' ' --- . 7.‘*:''''''''''' ,,.....",1., - -,0e ,..;*t ilo „. .,,:i.fil.,: ....„....„....:-..,:. .-., - -.'. ,.: -r ** ' ..
.... It . ....,,,. :4, , , .,..: ''1i. '-'e ...k..,-,.., -' '''''' .,'''' , ' .4 '''''
Taal volcano, a day's ride from Manila, is still the sight that tourists flock to see.
• On the road to Taal.
The Road to Taal
By ROY A. WELLS ■
T seems to be quite often the case desire continually to sheer off to the left, that those living nearest to places and was as regularly pulled back into I and objects of interest are the last the road again. At times he seemed in ones to visit them, and I have been danger of stopping altogether, and as no exception to the rule, as regards Taal the minutes were speeding by at an volcano. I have been in the islands alarming rate, we began to fidget lest we nearly seven years, but I never visited should lose our train. But luck was the volcano till last week. with us, and we finally drew up to the Behold us, my friend Buchanan and station with three minutes to spare. I rattling out of the old walled city at A clamoring throng of natives was 7 o'clock on the morning of Washing- besieging the ticket window, but being ton's birthday, bound for the Paco sta- `Americanos,' we entered the station tion of the Manila & Dagupan railroad. agent's sanctum by his private door, As we had but a few minutes in which thereby avoiding the rush, and soon we to catch the train we took the first street were aboard the train, which presently rig we saw, which was drawn by a par- started, after much preliminary ringing ticularly diminutive moth-eaten pony, of bells, blowing of horns, and tooting of which seemed to have an uncontrollable the whistle, all of which noises are indis-
71 72 THE MID-PACIFIC
pensable when a train is about to get stern that the pony was in danger of be- under way on the Manila & Dagupan ing lifted bodily into the air—or worse railway. still, should the belly-band come away, Our compartment, which ran half the we would find ourselves sitting on our length of the car and had a long wooden necks in the road. So we had to disem- seat on either side, was well filled with a bark and readjust the cargo and our- cosmopolitan crowd ; two or three Ameri- selves, which process had to be repeated cans, with their dogs, out for a day's at frequent intervals throughout the ride. hunting, a few Spaniards, and several Some of the holes and bumps in the road `fflustradoes,' as the upper-class natives were truly fearful to behold, but the are called. These latter, as usual, were cochero constituted himself into a sort of immaculate in white clothes and high shifting ballast, so we were able to keep collars, with their hair well smoothed right side up, and never quite turned down into becoming bangs. over. The train rattled and bumped its way We finally arrived at Manaderos, on along through a rather pretty country, the shore of the lake, at noon, and once with frequent stops at the numerous again luck was with us, for we were able stations, and long before we arrived at to find a man at once who agreed to take our destination the seats began to feel us over to the volcano island in his boat, uncommonly hard. For variety, we could or `banca,' to use the local term. This go out on the platform, where a view banca was about twenty feet long and through the adjoining third-class coach two feet beam, with outriggers, and a la- afforded much of interest. These cars teen sail. She carried a crew of three seem to be always crammed full ; each men, two husky looking fishermen, and native has a number of large bundles in an ancient mariner who wore his head baskets containing garden truck, or eggs, enveloped in a red bandana, and his or fish, or small pigs, and usually a large mouth full of betel nut. A stiff breeze proportion of the male contingent have was blowing from just the right quarter, their game chickens with them. Of and we fairly flew through the water. course there is never any lack of babies, These native bancas are very swift, when and the resulting noise is a cross between running before the wind. It took us only a barnyard and a nursery. At each sta- an hour to cover the eight miles to the tion the refreshment vendors ply their island. wares through the car windows. The fa- The island presents a most desolate vorite delicacy is the `balut,' which is an appearance as one approaches it. Hardly overripe egg stolen from the hen just be- a speck of green relieves the monotony fore it is about to be hatched. And to see of the gray ashes and rocks, and not a a native smack his lips as he crunches s'ngle human being lives there. Formerly down one of these half-baked chicks is a there were several banios on the island. sight a white man doesn't soon forget. but during that awful night in January, We arrived at our destination—Tana- 1911, when the last eruption occurred, the uan—at a quarter past ten, and were for- unfortunate inhabitants were either burn- tunate in immediately securing a `cochero' ed to death by the boiling mud or suffo- who, after a little preliminary haggling cated by the gases which poured from the over the price agreed to take us in his `caromata' to the banio of Banaderos on crater. More than 1000 persons met the shore of Lake Taal. After a short death in its most horrible form on that wait, he reappeared on the scene with a night. An idea of the tremendous force rickety looking two-wheeled conveyance. of the explosions may be gathered from into which we first piled our dunnage, the fact that they were plainly heard in and then ourselves, and off we started. Pangazinan, where I was at the time. The road was rough, and it soon de- which is more than 150 miles from the veloped that our craft was so down by the volcano. THE MID-PACIFIC 73
A church on the way.
We arrived at the island at a quarter than the lake surrounding the volcano of two, and after beaching our banca, set island, and as the walls of the crater out at once for the crater, accompanied are very nearly vertical for the whole by one of the `banqueros' as a guide, and 900 feet, it makes a grand view, and one taking only our cameras and canteens . which a person who has seen it will not The rim of the crater rises about 900 feet soon forget. above the lake, and it took us an hour to We remained half an hour on the make the climb. The walking was ex- crater, taking pictures and enjoying the cellent all the way, as the ashes had .a view, and then retraced our steps to the hard crust, but the glare of the sun was shore. Here we waited for the natives intense. We were disappointed to find to eat a pot of rice, and at five o'clock that the volcano was absolutely quiet, ex- started on our return to Banaderos. cept for a single jet of smoke or steam These bancas are no good for sailing which issued from a fissure on the side close to the wind, so the men had to row of the crater. But there is no doubt that all the way back, and a hard pull it was, the volcano is still very much alive ; in too. One of the banqueros was `teniente' one place we dug into the ashes only a of the banio, and he invited us to spend few inches, and the heat was too great the night at his house. We arrived there for one's hand to bear. at a little after seven, with a good appe- The crater is a mile in diameter, and tite for supper, which consisted of a at present the entire bottom is covered couple of cans of beans, one of frank- by a lake of muddy-looking water. The furters and some dried prunes, helped bottom of the crater is slightly lower out by some of the green native oranges 74 THE MID -PACIFIC
which the teniente procured for us. Our variably insisted on a spoonful or two canteens were empty, and we were both extra of whatever he bought, by way of very thirsty, but didn't care to drink from good measure. One little urchin of about the family water jar which all hands three years particularly amused us. His used by the aid of a coconut shell, throw- only garment was an inadequate shirt, ing back what they didn't drink into the which came about half-way down the jar again. Needless to say, we had a tubby little stomach. This child had an large and attentive audience while we ear of corn, for which he and the most were eating, for an American while eat- miserable of small dogs were contending. ing seems to be an object of great in- It seemed about a toss up as to which got terest to the natives, especially if the food the most, but I rather think the dog came comes out of tin cans. out ahead, for he got in several juicy We spread our blankets on the floor, licks along the whole ear while the child's and slept till four o'clock the next morn- attention was distracted elsewhere. ing; or rather slept part of the time, for Presently the launch hove in sight in I, at least, was much pestered by a pro- the distance, and we all piled into a large cession of cockroaches which used my lorcha' lying a short distance off shore, face as a promenade, and even went on in which we were poled out into the lake exploring expeditions up my trouser to meet the steamer. The natives, of legs. course, waded out to the lorcha, but we, Half past four found us started on being Americanos, were carried out on our return trip, with a fine moon to light the shoulders of a couple of boatmen. the way. We set out on foot this time, The presence of two Americans was a for the caromata, and our blanket rolls, source of some embarrassment to the and the cochero, was about all the load women passengers, as they didn't want to the pony could haul up the steep hill get their clothes wet, but after a couple of which the road ascended for the first wizened old women had led the way, the three or four miles. This is the favorite rest followed, with much giggling. time for traveling among the natives, and We had a very pleasant little voyage we passed numbers of them on their way to Manila in the launch. The boat was to market, with baskets of oranges and crowded with natives, but in virtue of our other produce on their heads. first-class tickets, we were privileged to From Tanauan to Calamba we went occupy cane-bottomed chairs forward of by train and at the latter town took an- a steel fence across the deck, where we other caromata for the shore of the had plenty of room. The launch stopped Laguna de Bahia, from which place we at a number of towns along the shore, at were to return to Manila by launch. We each of which a lorcha was waiting off found that the launch didn't leave till shore, with freight and passengers. A nine-thirty, so we had nearly two hours to fat old woman seated amidships, with a wait. This we spent at a nipa shack on parasol over her head, appeared to be the the shore, in which was a sort of native skipper of one of these, and she began restaurant, where, for three or four cop- to hold speech with the launch in a some- pers, a native could get rice and other what shrewish tone of voice as soon as it `viands.' It was quite interesting to came within earshot. She seemed to be watch the people. Each customer in- provoked that the launch didn't come THE MID -PACIFIC 75 closer inshore. One of the crew manned wealthy natives, and later, as we drew the rail and attempted a suitable reply in nearer the city, numerous warehouses behalf of the launch, but 'he was worsted and manufacturing plants. The swift cur- from the start, and soon subsided. rent helped the launch along, and at two- At one o'clock we entered the Pasig thirty we docked just below the Santa river, and presently began to note signs Cruz bridge, and a few minutes later of civilization again, in the shape of neat were hove again, after a rather hard, but bungalows owned by foreigners and entirely successful trip.
Taal volcano crater before eruption of 1911 which killed 1850 persons. 76 THE MID-PACIFIC Gourd Calabashes.
The Hawaiian Home
From the Memoirs of the Bishop Museum. ■
N the colder regions where hunting was left open during the night. In the birds or making adzes compelled centre, usually, of the house, and so op- I some of the native Hawaiians to posite the door was a shallow excava- dwell for a season, fire was a neces- tion walled in with flat stones set edge- sity in the sleeping place, and in the wise, or sometimes where such stones mountain region I have experienced the were not at hand, with larger and wider comfort of the fireplace filled with glow- stones firmly planted as a rectangular ing embers, and although the house had wall perhaps eighteen by twenty-four no chimney nor other opening than the inches. This fireplace was not intended ordinary door, there was, to my sur- for cooking, which was done out of prise no trouble from smoke, as the door doors and in an imu or buried oven.
77 78 THE MID-PACIFIC
The fire was kindled carefully and Polynesian family so annoying when the during the night was often replenished archaeologist tries to resuscitate old cus- by any one who happened to be awake, toms. Almost as soon as a matchbox and in a large company there was sure could be obtained the ancient implements to be some one awake at any time of of firemaking which had well served night. If a proper selection of wood countless generations were consigned to was made there was little smoke. Often the limbo of useless things, and their one sees in the stone kahua or platform very names soon erased from memory. that marks the site of a vanished house Names that were obtained more than the neatly built fireplace, the last fire half a century ago and embalmed in quenched so long ago that it differs lit- print are the only relics of many a use- tle in color from the other stone of the ful and to us interesting process in the ruin. daily life of the primitive settlers in the I do not think the Hawaiian, like his Pacific. I have seen old Hawaiians who Maori brother, ever cut the fireplace worked for Kamehameha the Great make from a single block of stone ; perhaps fire at my request, but as the present there was no stone so well suited for the generation is ignorant of these matters purpose as is found in New Zealand ; nor and not eager to be photographed doing did he shut himself in with his fire until such "old fashioned things" I turn to the heat was almost overpowering ; but their kin in New Zealand for an illus- then his climate never was so chilly as tration of the old Hawaiian method of that of southern New Zealand. When making fire : it was done on Hawaii pre- the old writers commiserate the ancient cisely as the Maori and his wife are do- Hawaiians for having houses with no ing at the present day in the native vil- outlet for the smoke and vapors of their lages of New Zealand. fire except the low door, it is probable The tools used by the old Hawaiians that they never spent a night in such a were a stick of dry, soft wood (hau was house with a fire. In modern times, commonly used), of such size as to be since the introduction of tobacco, the conveniently held between the feet or grass house certainly becomes stifling to by another person ; and a much smaller a nonsmoker even near the open door, stick or hard wood held in the hand and for the wild tobacco emits a stench that moved rapidly and with force to and no island wood could equal. We must fro in a groove on the soft stick called now look at the kindling of the fire. aunaki (in Maori kauahi), and the hard- The Hawaiian, like other Polynesians, er wood plow aulima (in Maori kauri- made fire by ploughing, not by drilling, marima.) There is more than a pass- although they had the pump drill in very ing interest in the comparison of the early times. If the first immigrants to words used to designate these fire-sticks the Pacific islands came from Asia they in Hawaiian and other Polynesian dia- passed through a region where fire drill- lects. Aulima, au a handle (also the ing was generally practised from Aus- motion of the hand in mixing poi), lima tralia to Japan, and as in the case of the the hand (also the numeral five from loom they "passed by on the other side." the number of fingers) ; in Maori kau- If they came from the American contin- rimarima (1 and r often interchangeable ent that also was a land where before in Polynesian words) ; Tahitian aurima; the coming of the white man the fire Mangarevan kourima. The lower piece drill was universally used. is named in Maori kauahi or kaunoti, in With the curious disdain the Hawaiian Tahitian auai, Mangarevan kaunati. As seems to feel for the works, processes or to the Maori kaurimarima, Mr. Edward results of his forebears in heathen times, Tregear remarks in his Maori-Poly- one cannot be surprised at the utter nesian Comparative Dictionary sub voce, forgetfulness that has fallen on the "This is probably the only Maori word modern representatives of this great in which riina is used for 'hand', altho THE MID-PACIFIC 79 rima (or lima) is 'hand' or 'five' almost ing itself by its manufactured fire. As everywhere else in Polynesia." The mo- usual, the bird refused to tell whence tion of rubbing is hia in Hawaiian. came the comfortable blaze, so the hu- With a few rubs the friction is suf- man featherless biped seized the plumed ficient to char the wood and in about a one and pressing a still glowing brand minute the dust that collects in the bot- from the fire against the forehead of the tom of the groove ignites and the flame bird held it there until in its agony the is dexterously caught on a bit of tinder poor wretch gave up its secret in frag- or a welu ahi, composed of twisted or mentary shrieks, and as an irrefragable braided kapa : this also serves for a slow proof of the truth of the legend the fore- match. The ohe puhi ahi, a joint of head of the bird is still red. slender bambu, served to blow the fire The flint and steel of our ancestors when kindling. With volcanic fire per- were not more efficient than the simple petually burning on the largest island of fire-sticks. No flint was found on the the group and traditionally the one Hawaiian group, nor metallic iron, but where the immigrants first landed, and the compact clinkstone and the hard with eruptions every few years that iron oxide or haematite are claimed to nightly brightened Hawaii and the near- have been used by the natives ; never so er islands for weeks and even months, popular as the aulima and aunaki. The it is strange that the legends of the clear burning embers in the fireplace origin of fire trace it, not to the redoubt- gave a dim but sufficient light that did able Pele, goddess of the volcano, but not hinder sleep, but showed the in- to the humble water-hen (aloe of the na- distinct figures moving from their lair tives) who alone knew how to make fire to the door or returning without dis- and long refused to impart the secret to turbance to their rest ; and when the human beings. At last one day the in- fire-tender put new fuel on the embers evitable happened and a man came upon the temporary flash disclosed a scene to one of these birds who had been warm- be remembered.
Old Home Life. 80 THE MID-PACIFIC
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(From London Illustrated News) Fishers with Cormorants at work—showing a man making a bird disgorge its catch ; reined birds on the water ; and the brazier. As a rule, each possesses about fifteen or sixteen Cormorants. These are controlled by means of reins attached to a small collar around the bird's neck, preventing all but the tiniest fish being swallowed. Using birds for night fishing.
Fishing with Birds at Night
By H. G. OSTRANDER X
I ONVENTIONAL globe-trotters ter traveler in Japan, for the reason that do not often visit Japan during it is only at mid-summer that the water C_..) the heat of the summer, but there in the River Nagara is low enough to are still other things besides the permit the use of cormorants, and this lotus to make a summer journey through interesting method of fishing can only be the Land of the Mikado an experience employed during the dark of the moon. of particular delight. Arriving at Gifu on a beautiful August I count among my happiest memories evening I rickshawed up through the pic- a little expedition which I made to Gifu, turesque streets of this quaint little city, an interesting medival city in the cen- and found a very charming stopping tral part of the Island of Hondo, where place at the Yadoya Tamaiya, a Japanese it was my privilege to witness the inn of the best class. To the low-bowing strange and wonderful method of fishing o-kamisan of the inn I presented the note by means of the "ukai," or the Japanese of introduction which I had brought cormorant. This form of fishing is pe- from the landlord of the Yadoya Shina- culiar to the vicinity of Gifu, and is un- chu at Nagoya, and it was very evident known in other parts of Japan. The that the message was a kindly one, for "ayu" trout caught in this manner is es- in an instant I was the recipient of the teemed a great delicacy by all Japanese, unbounded hospitality of Japan. A dozen and is shipped in large quantities during pretty nesans came pattering from every the season to every part of the empire. corner of the establishment, and my This most interesting spectacle of cor- shoes were taken off and stored in a morant fishing is impossible to the win- little cupboard at the entrance. Then
6--M. P. 81 82 THE MID-PACIFIC
one little Japanese doll in a purple ki- Japanese delicacies with the aid of chop- mona trotted off with my suitcase bal- sticks, while the merry little mousme, anced upon her head, and another dainty into whose particular and kindly care I mousme, brilliant in a huge obi, took me had been consigned, knelt on the oppo- by the hand and led me up the bamboo site side of the tray, fanning me con- steps to the little paper box which was stantly even though I did not want to be to serve me as a room—a very charm- fanned ; pouring my tea, and refilling my ing paper box, from which I looked down tea, and filling my bowl with rice ; chat- into a beautiful Japanese garden, with tering incessantly all the while, regard- stunted pines and miniature stone bridges less of the fact that I failed to grasp one and pagodas. Quite at variance with our word of her merry gossip ; and giggling Western ideas of a garden; flowers are delightfully at my clumsy efforts to very seldom to be seen in a Japanese manipulate the chopsticks. garden. The ayu is a very delicious little trout A kimona and straw sandals were about ten inches long, and, cooked as brought me, and hardly was I aft' red in only the Japanese know how to cook a the costume of old Japan when one of fish, forms "a dish fit for the gods." It the little mousmes came pattering up is however somewhat of an accomplish- with tea and rice-cakes for my refresh- ment to eat fish with chopsticks, for of ment, and, provided with a long and course there are no knives or forks to narrow book, in which, with the aid of help one out of such predicaments while a brush and a pan of Chinese ink, she dining at a Japanese inn. proceeded to paint the sad history of It was a merry meal, with all the my past life for the benefit of the police, bright-faced mousmes lending their punctuating her many questions with dainty, charming selves quite uncon- that inevitable remark which seems to sciously to complete a most attractive form an essential part of every Japanese picture of Oriental life ; and at the end conversation : these merry-hearted little maidens joined "Ah ! So deska ?" ("Is that so ?"). me most delightedly in the distribution After the indispensable hot bath, taken of sweet rice-cakes. amid surroundings quite at variance Then came the rickshaw which the o- with Western ideas of propriety, I re- kamisan had ordered for me, and, as the turned to my paper-walled room to en- night was very dark, a large and beauti- joy the delights of a real Japanese din- fully painted paper lantern was carried ner. It had become known to the good by my karumaya to light the way ; and people of the inn that I had come to so, with the kind-hearted innkeeper and Gifu expressly to see the cormorant fish- all the bright-faced nesans bowing a low ing, and in consequence the entire house- farewell, I rode away into the night, hold seemed to be in a fever of prepara- through the beautiful lantern-lighted tion. As mine was a pilgrimage to see streets of this most charming mediaeval the "ukai" it was appropriate that some city, clad only in the kimona and straw of the ayu trout caught by the cormor- sandals of Japan. ants should be served at the meal ; and Gifu was formerly the castle-town of a all the people of the yadoya gathered Daimyo, and is today a thriving, busy around me to assist at the ceremonies city of forty thousand people. The city and watch my enjoyment of their hos- is famed throughout Japan for its manu- pitality. facture of paper lanterns and fans, the In a Japanese yadoya there is no table finest produced in the empire. The beau- and the various dishes are arranged on a tiful lanterns were much in evidence as tray which is placed flat on the matted I rode through the busy, brightly-lighted floor. Of course there were no chairs. streets on my way to the river, my rick- and so I knelt upon a little cushion at shaw mingling with scores of others one side of the tray and ate mysterious bound in the same direction, while the THE MID-PACIFIC 83
A typical Japanese Fishing Scene. spirit of merriment pervaded everything huge fireflies. As my boat drew nearer I and everybody, even the half-naked karu- discovered that these lights were carried mayas or rickshaw-men entering into the by many other pleasure boats similar to light and merry chaff, calling constantly my own, and that these boats were all to their fellows as they passed. filled with merry-makers : Japanese peo- Arriving at the banks of the River ple, who, like myself, had come to look Nagara, I found that the good friends upon the curious sight of cormorant fish- of the Yadoya Tamaiya had anticipated ing. all my wants ; and, among dozens of Many of these boats were beautifully brilliantly illuminated boats drawn up decorated, and some of them carried along the shore, I found that one had Geisha girls, and the sound of their been reserved especially for my use. It singing and the music of their samisiens was a covered craft with three beautiful across the shadowy waters seemed very paper lanterns suspended from the beautiful even to my untrained Western canopy, and two sturdy boatmen to take ear. Skyrockets and red-fire made the me up to the fishing grounds, about three night radiant with light, while the scores miles above the city. There was very of lantern-lighted pleasure boats massed little rowing, however, as the water in together against the dark foliage of the the river was so shallow that the boat- men were in the water most of the time distant shore completed a picture almost wading and pushing the boat. like fairyland in its loveliness. Soon many lights appeared far away Several large boats, hung with paper in the distance, dancing and shimmering lanterns and loaded with fruits, Japanese over the surface of the waters. There sweetmeats and ices, and other varieties seemed to be hundreds of these shifting. of refreshments, passed constantly up twinkling, low-lying lights, like so many and down the river, their owners carry- 84 THE MID-PACIFIC
ing on a thriving business with the oc- them, and thus I was able to see all the cupants of the anchored pleasure craft. details of this wonderfully interesting In this thoroughly Japanese company fishing scene. The cormorants, huge of merrymakers I passed quite unnoticed, birds as large as geese, and trained for and I was thankful for my Japanese the work, tugged and strained at their costume which made me such a unob- cords like hunting dogs on a leash, until trusive part of this interesting picture of the "usho" gave them liberty to dive. real Japan. There was no other for- Then, with a movement so quick that my eigner besides myself and no touch of eye could hardly follow them, the great Western life to spoil this wonderful birds plunged from the boats and darted picturesque water fete, so characteristic- about under the water in a most excited ally Japanese. The gay groups in the manner, one bird sometimes catching and various boats grew merrier, and there swallowing several trout before coming was in truth "a sound of revelry by to the surface. The capacity of each night," but, with it. all, there was none bird seemed to be from four to eight of the loud noise and boisterousness of trout, and, as soon as one of the cor- Occidental people under similar condi- morants became gorged, it was hauled tions. I wondered if the fish would not into the boat, and there the still living be scared away by the samisiens, the fish were taken from it. This operation lively chatter of the Geishas, the many was performed by the assistant fisher- lights, and the noise of the boatmen ; but man pressing upon the neck and breast evidently I did not know the trout of of the cormorant and forcing it to dis- Gifu. gorge. So quickly was this done that At last I saw a blazing light ahead— before I could realize what had hap- two, three, many lights—far up the river, pened the bird, with renewed appetite standing out against the shadowy moun- and eagerness, was back in the water, tains and the darkness of the forest, and darting here and there as excitedly as growing larger and larger each moment before. as they drew nearer. Soon the boats On a dark night when the fish are came close beside me, each fishing boat running well it is said that each of the with a huge iron basket at its prow, twelve birds carried by one of these boats filled with blazing fagots of pitch-pine, will catch from three hundred to five throwing wonderful reflections and hundred trout per hour, so that during shadows across the dark waters and the four or five hours of fishing, on a lighting the shallow river so perfectly night when all conditions are favorable, that every white pebble upon its bottom one usho with his twelve cormorants could be plainly seen. will take almost an incredible number of It was a most amazing sight—a weird trout. and never-to-be-forgotten experience. These fish, although small, are of the Each boat carried a "usho," or master- most delicious flavor and are in great fisherman, who stood erect in the prow demand all over Japan. As they are of the boat and handled twelve cormor- taken from the cormorants they are ants at the same time, each bird being placed in great round baskets which are guided and controlled by a long cord in common use by all the fishermen of attached to its neck, while a man at the Japan, and at the end of the night's stern continually shouted and pounded work the fish are sorted out, the smaller, the side of the boat with a huge piece unsaleable fish being fed to the cor- of bamboo, producing a tremendous morants as a reward for their faithful racket ; but the noise and the lights seem- service. ed to attract the fish rather than to The cormorants are caught when frighten them away. young and trained with much care, and As the fishing-boats floated past I let are treated with great kindness. There my own boat loose and floated with is usually one old cormorant acting as THE MID-PACIFIC 85 the leader of the group of fishing birds, bridge of Gifu was once more in sight, and he seems very proud of his distinc- and then with many regrets I drew away tion, always answering to the name of frOm this weird and fascinating spectacle "Ichi-ban" (Mr. Number One). and joined the other boats of merry- According to Japanese chronicles this makers on their way back to the city. strange and picturesque method of fish- On the crowded river bank I found my ing has been carried on in the River rickshaw waiting for me and so I sped Nagara for a period of over twelve hun- homeward to the Yadoya Tamaiya, dred years, and is to this day one of the through the now darkened and silent greatest and most profitable industries of streets, my way lighted only by the paper Gifu. lanterns dancing at the end of the rick- And so I drifted down the Nagara side shaw shaft, for Gifu, aside from the by side with the fishing boats until the ukai merry-makers, goes early to bed.
The fishing fleet. R6 . .111 • • , ■
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The rich sugar district of the Island of Maui extending up the sides of Haleakala. Puunene, one of the world's largest sugar mills.
Sugar on Maui
By KENNETH HUNTER
OR many years the island of Maui has enabled its manager to undertake in- in the Hawaiian group boasted of novations for the welfare of its employes F the largest sugar plantation and that have not been possible elsewhere. It mill in the world. Even today its has been a leader rather than a follower leading plantation is perhaps the model in the development of the sugar industry sugar estate of the world, consequently of Hawaii, and may well stand as an its story will be told to illustrate the example of the most intensive crop culti- sugar industry on the island of Maui. vation in the world—the cultivation of The plantation of the Hawaiian Com- sugar cane as it has been evolved in this mercial and Sugar Company —one of territory. the largest and most prosperous sugar It is generally admitted among those properties in the world—has the choicest familiar with the industry that the culti- situation in all the territory, on the low, vation of sugar cane is not altogether narrow neck of land that connects what natural to Hawaii, and what nature fail- at one time were the east and west ed to provide it fell to man to supply. islands of Maui. In many respects the Nowhere in the world, on a large scale, plantation is typical of the islands ; in is a crop so intensively cultivated. No- others it is not. Its high state of pro- where, on a large scale, have the arts and ductiveness and consequent prosperity science been called into play so exten-
87 88 THE MID-PACIFIC sively as in the production of sugar cane the other. In 1877 the property was ac- in Hawaii. Not an acre of ground is quired by Claus Spreckels from King tilled until it has been subjected to chem- Kalakaua, during the reign of the late ical analysis, its needs understood and its monarch. From his name the principal deficiencies supplied. The contours of plantation quarters and offices became the field are as carefully surveyed as the known as Spreckelsville, but they have line of a transcontinental railroad, while since been removed' to Puunene. When the irrigation systems are as nicely plan- Spreckels began to dispose of his inter- ned as the domestic water systems of a ests in Hawaii, members of the firm of world metropolis. A single sugar mill Alexander & Baldwin purchased the con- represents an investment that would trol of the plantation. build a Pennsylvania steel plant, while a The irrigation system at Puunene is single plantation may have a railroad one of the most complete and extensive system that would do credit to any sub-. in the islands. The principal source of urbant community. The cultivation of water supply is in the mountains of East sugar cane in Hawaii is on a scale that and Central Maui, where the rainfall compares with the wheat ranches of Da- averages 200 inches a year. The Koolau kota or the cattle ranges of Texas, but it ditch, which is 49,000 feet long and a also has been reduced to an art that com- new extension of the old system, carries pares with the prune orchards of Santa the water from its sources to the dis- Clara county, or the orange orchards of tributing ditches. For only 11,000 feet Southern California. of the distance is it an open ditch, the Both in size and state of development other portion of the system consisting of the plantation of the Hawaiian Commer- underground tunnels. One of these is cial and Sugar Company is the acknowl- 2800 feet long. The system was built at edged leader in this industry. It occupies a great expenditure of money, and re- a comparatively level and unbroken area quired the work of several hundred men that has reduced the cost of cultivation for a year and a half. to a minimum. The section is not one From this and other ditches the plan- of heavy rainfall, so that the natural fer- tation receives about 90,000,000 gallons tility of the soils is not washed out. The of water a day. There are seven pump- adjacent mountains contain an abundance ing plants having a combined capacity of of water for irrigation purposes, and 81,000,000 gallons a day, although they equable climatic conditions insure stable are operated only when the ditch supply production. All these things, of course, of water is insufficient. Surplus water are appreciated by the stockholders, but not used by the Wailuku plantation is they are also appreciated by the em- also received from the Iao river. ployes, for, while their comfort and con- The railroad system is as complete tentment is made one of the chief con- and extensive as the other appurtenances cerns of the managements of the planta- of the plantation. There are eighty miles tions of Hawaii, the prosperity of this of track, reaching to every part of the one enables its manager and directors to cultivated land, and the gauge is the indulge themselves in this respect to an same as that of the Kahului Railway, extent that is not possible to all. with which it connects. The rolling The plantation consists of 23,000 acres, stock consists of 850 cane cars and six of which 18,000 acres are adaptable to locomotives. About 75,000 tons of freight the cultivation of cane. The annual crop are transported over the system every is taken from an area that varies from month. 6000 to 7000 acres, that produce from As the sugar mill is the largest and 50,000 to 60,000 tons of raw sugar. The most complete in the islands and one of lands extend across the neck that con- the largest in the world, a detailed de- nects East and West Maui, from Kahu- scription of it may be interesting. The lui bay on one side to Maalaea bay on machinery is housed in a steel building, THE MID-PACIFIC 89
450 by 300 feet, and of sufficient dimen- is worked over into No. 1 sugar, while sions to accommodate additions to the the second molasses, if of good quality, mechanical appliances. The cane is goes through a special treatment which dumped on two endless carriers that con- transforms it into sugar, and, if of poor vey it to revolving knives. After pass- quality, is utilized as one of several by- ing through crushers the cane enters one products. The capacity of the mill in of the twelve-roller mills. There are cane is from 2400 to 2700 tons a day, two of these, each 34 by 73 inches. and in raw sugar from 275 to 375 tons. Power is furnished by fourteen boil- A chemical laboratory, superintendent's ers, each 7x20 feet, with room in the office, various repair shops and work- house for additional boilers. The fur- shops, and a sugar warehouse with a ca- naces are equipped for burning bagasse pacity of 95,000 bags are a part of the which is fed to them automatically, and establishment. Chemical analyses and a draught is obtained through two stacks, sugar tests are made up daily so that no each 1272 feet in diameter and 180 feet loss may be sustained through faulty in height. Two 750-horse-power and two processes in extraction or manufacture. 250-horse-power engines are required to While the wages, hours and perqui- drive the mills. sites, in a general way, are fixed for all The juice extracted from the cane is the plantations of Hawaii by the Plant- pumped to the top of the building, where ers' Association, there are many small it enters three liming tanks, each with a benefits that lie within the power of the capacity of 3500 gallons. After being various plantation managers to bestow. treated with lime and passing through These are limited only by the profits of heaters, the juice enters a set of twenty- the individual plantation, and, as the Ha- eight intermittent settling tanks. The waiian Commercial and Sugar Company juice is then drawn off and allowed to is the richest single sugar property in flow by gravity through ten mechanical the islands, it naturally follows that un- filters and from there to the evaporators. usual regard is given to the -welfare The mud is taken from the bottom of and comforts of the employes. As this the settling tanks and pumped through plantation, in common with others, is filter presses, where the last of the juice generally short of a full complement of is taken from it. The residue is used for men, the motives that actuate the pro- fertilizer, while the juice joins the clear priteors in their efforts to render the juice that has preceded it in the processes employes contented may not be altogeth- of manufacturing sugar. er unselfish, but the effect on the em- The evaporators, of which there are ployes is the same. F. F. Baldwin, the two, each have a capacity of 450,000 gal- resident manager of the plantation, in lons of juice in twenty-four hours. They conjunction with the directors, has gone reduce the juice to syrup and diminish further than any manager in the islands the volume of it about two-thirds. The in supplying comforts for his men that syrup then goes to five vacuum pans, are not actually required by the arrange- four of them havinga capacity of thirty- ment of the Planters' Association or the five tons of dry sugar at one strike and contracts of the Territorial Board of im- the other having a capacity of twenty- migration. five tons. After being boiled the syrup A full complement consists of 3500 passes to the centrifugals, of which there employes, but the plantation is usually are twenty-eight. from 250 to 300 short, and the last labor From the centrifugals are taken No. report showed that there were 3356 men 1 sugar and first molasses, the last of on the payrolls. These were divided which is sent back through a set of among Americans, Portuguese, Span- twelve crystalizers. After several days iards, Russians, Hawaiians, Porto Ri- of treatment, it comes out No. 2 sugar cans, Filipinos, Japanese, Chinese and and second molasses. The No. 2 sugar Koreans. 90 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar private families, who get the buildings Company is bound by the prevailing rent free. A family can live for from wage scale in the employment of day la- $14 to $18 a month, which includes food borers, but from the fact that 90 per and clothing and all other necessary ex- cent of the work on the plantation is per- penses. The aggregate savings of the formed under contract at which em- employes of this plantation are enormous ployes earn much more than the wage and every year furnishes additional evi- scale, this figure cannot be accepted as a dences of thrift and prosperity among fair representation of their earnings. The them. For instance, there are three few Asiatics who are employed by the times as many women on the plantation day fell under the minimum wage scale as there were three years ago, and yet of $18 a month, with a bonus of $2 a there are fewer women working for the month for continuous work. This brings plantation. the minimum wage to virtually $20 a There are twenty-five villages on the month. White laborers, which term is plantation of the Hawaiian Commercial understood to denote all except Asiatic and Sugar Company. As there is no laborers, receive from $24 a month up. waste ground, the settlements are laid But as nine-tenths of the work is per- out on good cane land that can be used formed by contract, it is the earnings of by the dwellers for the cultivation of contractors that must be taken as the fruits, flowers and vegetables. The com- basis for calculating the average receipts pany has 700 houses that are furnished of employes. This is carefully estimated rent free to employes, or less than five to be $1.25 a day during the cutting and persons on the plantation to each house. loading season and $1.15 a day the year Old houses are being torn down and around. In addition to this there are a new ones erected at the rate of 150 a number of laborers who work on a year. In carrying out the policy of the profit-sharing basis. A group of them Planters' Association, providing for the take a certain piece of land to cultivate. substitution of detached cottages for They have the free use of the land, wa- apartment houses, the Hawaiian Com- ter for irrigation and tools. The com- mercial and Sugar Company has pro- pany also furnishes the seed, and then gressed further than any other planta- buys the cane by the ton at a price based tion. Nearly every family now has its on the market price of sugar at the time own home, consisting of a three or four the crop is harvested. During the growth room cottage surrounded by grounds. of the crop these laborers receive $15 a The camps contain many conveniences month in cash or store credits. If the for the common use of the residents, crop should turn out to be a failure, the such as bathhouses, washhouses, barber company still pays the contractors $22 shops, etc. Water is piped to every a month and assumes the loss. In other house and hot water is supplied free to words, an employe working on a profit- the laundries and baths. As it is more sharing basis cannot make less than $22 comfortable to cook out of doors in a a month, even if there is no crop what- tropical country, each house has a cook- ever. In actual practice, such employes house outside. The settlements are laid average to make $30 a month. with sewers and every sanitary precau- While these wages may not seem high. tion.is observed. Three sanitary gangs it must be remembered that the cost of are kept constantly at work, and cleanli- living is exceedingly low, and that not ness about the villages is insisted upon. one day in the year need be lost on ac- All water for drinking purposes is put count of inclement weather. Asiatics through a sterilizing plant and sent to can obtain board on the plantation for the fields in cars where it is free from $5 a month. while some of the white contamination. races pay $10. The boarding-houses are The company maintains five stores, but not operated by the plantation, but by there are a number of independent stores THE MID-PACIFIC 91 in the vicinity of the plantation, while Territory by the company. At its own the stores at Kahului and Wailuku are expense the company built a Japanese accessible to all plantation employes. In school, three Japanese kindergartens and the company's stores the necessities are a Japanese nursery, toward the mainten- sold at cost, and the operating expenses ance of all of which it contributes. The are met from the profit on the few lux- company also built and helps support a uries sold. In all five stores a $300,000 Catholic, a Hawaiian and a Korean stock is carried constantly, while the church. profit on the business last year was $10,- The company maintains one of the 000, or about 3 per cent on the invest- best plantation hospitals in the islands. ment. As a matter of fact, the stores It has three private rooms and ward ac- are operated mainly for the purpose of commodations for fifty patients. It con- keeping down prices in the vicinity. tains an operating-room fully equipped In many ways the plantation com- for all kinds of surgical work with X- pany strives to render the employes as ray apparatus and Finsen light. Three comfortable and contented as possible, white nurses are in constant attendance, and to raise their standard of living. besides other attaches. Regular visits There are three Government schools on are made by a physician. One of the the plantation, and the property on best situations on the plantation has been which they stand has been deeded to the selected for the institution.
Tasseled sugar cane and an irrigation ditch, Maui. 92 • ill • • • THE MID-PACIFIC
The harbor of Kahului, Maui, showing breakwater in the distance.
• A customary landing on Hawaii.
• Inter-Island Transportation
By JAS. A. KENNEDY
HE transportation of freight and Less than a year afterward the S. B. passengers between the islands Wheeler, also a river boat, arrived in T of the Hawaiian group dates this port and after a short delay was re- back to the time when the out- named the Akamai. In 1854 the Sea rigger canoes were the only craft in Bird was added to the list of island these waters. Schooners followed the coasters and later the West Point en- canoes as the steamers have replaced the tered the trade. The latter was short sailing vessels, and in 1853 an attempt lived, for she was soon wrecked on was made to have steam transportation Kauai. The Akamai went into the tow- succeed sail. The government was, in age business and was afterward driven a measure, behind the scheme which out of the business by a steamer called brought from the Sacramento river the the Pele, which belonged to the govern- little side-wheel steamer Constitution. ment. The machinery from the Akamai One trip between Honolulu and Lahaina was put into another vessel and the orig- sufficed and the steamer returned to her inal sent up to the coast. The change old run without changing register or was made in accordance with an agree- name. ment with the river fleet owners to the
93 94 THE MID-PACIFIC effect that neither she nor her machinery interested in island transportation and was to be used in that trade. became owners of several small schoon- Steam transportation fell into disuse ers. Thomas R. Foster, too, was inter- at this time and the people were obliged ested, so the island fleet of that day to depend upon sail for trips between the consisted of fifteen or more schooners. islands. It was to be revived, however, S. G. Wilder, Foster, Captain J. F. through the efforts of D. L. Greene, Brown and others owning several swift- who got into correspondence with a firm going vessels. In 1879, Foster, with of shipbuilders in New London, Conn., Captain Godfrey and Captain Brown, but it took several years to complete the built the steamer James Makee, named arrangements after securing necessary after the owner of a large sugar planta- support to the plan. A steamer of 400 tion on the island of Kauai. During the tons burden was to be built by Williams next two years the C. R. Bishop and & Co. and sent around the Horn to Ho- Iwalani were added to their holdings, nolulu on probation. She was to have Messrs. Wilcox, H. A. P. Carter and P. a six months' trial, and, if she made the C. Jones being interested, and in 1883 required speed, the steamer was to be the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Coin- taken over and run under the supervision pany, Limited, was incorporated with of the government. She arrived here the following vessels : Schooners. Mau- June 28, 1860, with Captain William C. nakawai, Marion, Jennie, Mary E. Fos- Bush in command, and was named the ter, Liholiho, and steamers James Ma- Kilauea. She made good at once, kee, Iwalani, C. R. Bishop and Planter. though she was run under an American Captain Hobron owned schooners. register for some time under an agree- Captain Molteno had an interest in the ment with the Commissioner of Cus- steamer Kilauea. The Likelike, ordered toms. Her first voyage was made to by the government to replace the Ki- Kauai on July 18, 1860, and on the 24th lauea, came from the coast in 1877, con- of that month she was sent to windward signed to S. G. Wilder and was bought with Bush as captain and George Beck- by him. In November, 1883, he organ- ley, father of George C. Beckley, as ized the Wilder Steamship Company. chief officer. In September of that year Captain King, who had been master of the command was given to F. Molteno, the Likelike, became interested and re- and in October it passed to Captain Ber- mained with the company until his rill. For years she was the only steam- death, about ten years ago. The com- er running on the Hawaii route, and was pany built the Mokolii, Lehua, Kinau, a passenger-boat for many distinguished Helene, Maui and Claudine and bought persons. It was of her that Mark Twain the Kilauea Hou, Hawaii and Kihalani. wrote in saying "the hot lava from the The latter was unlucky for she was volcano melted the copper off her bot- wrecked on her first trip. She was orig- tom." Mr. Greene became agent for the inally the Daisy Kimball and was once Kilauea, and when he retired it passed in the coast trade. into the hands of S. G. Wilder. It is Claus Spreckels was largely interest- said of the Kilauea that, during her ed in the Wilder Company. One time long life, she took every reef in • the while in the islands he made a trip to group, her captains, apparently, prefer- Maui on the old Likelike and suffered ring to go through rather than around all the discomforts existing on small them. seagoing steamers. He declared he In 187o the Kilauea Hou was built in would build a steamer to run between Honolulu by Messrs. Tibbits and Soren- the ports and went to Glasgow with that son on an order from Captain Hobron, intention. There was an agreement then a resident of Maui. All this time that if the boat was suited to the busi- most of the freight was carried in sailing ness the Wilders would have an oppor- vessels. Messrs. Allen and Walker were tunity to buy her. After the keel was THE MID-PACIFIC 95 laid Captain King was sent to Glasgow to see that she was properly built, and, meeting Spreckels, told him his mission. The latter had a manner of expressing himself that seemed final, and when he told Captain King to go back to Hono- lulu he did so. Though there were but two companies operating in the Islands there was never any very keen competition. The Inter- Island Company took the ports and plantations on the Island of Kauai and those on the lee side of Hawaii. One or two plantations on Maui shipped sugar by their own vessels, but most of them, as well as those shipping from Hilo, pa- tronized the Wilder Company. Several ports in Hamakua were considered Inter-Island territory, and there was never any encroachment by either com- pany. Several years ago consolidation of the two companies was broached at a meeting of the directors of one of them. The advantage of having both compan- ies under one management was recog- nized and negotiations were entered into One of the fleet. for the purchase of controling stock. The Inter-Island Company secured the the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The necessary number of shares and today meals and service are excellent and pas- there is but one company in the inter- sengers are made as comfortable as they Island transportation business here. Be- could be on a larger vessel. The meals sides doing a general freight and pas- are as good as those served at any first- senger business between Honolulu and class hotel. The Mauna Kea connects the other islands the company has a fleet at Hilo without delay with the trains for of steamers during the sugar season the volcano over the lines of the Hilo freighting sugar between the plantation Railway Company. ports and the deep-sea vessels and The Kilauea, a boat similar to the steamers which load at Hilo. Mauna Kea, has been added to the ser- The largest and best of the Inter- vice for the Kona and lee sections of Island fleet is the Mauna Kea, sailing the island of Hawaii. There is a twenty- between Honolulu and Hilo, at which five dollar cruise ticket that gives tour- port passengers for the volcano disem- ists the privilege of visiting each of the bark. She makes the run of 200 miles larger islands, Hawaii, Maui and Kauai, with five stops in twenty hours. She is with limited stopover privileges. modern in every way, and will compare A steamer leaves Honolulu for one of favorably with the smaller steamers on the other islands nearly every day. (V) THE MID-PACIFIC
A typical Hawaiian landing place. ADVERTISING SECTION
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The Honolulu Rapid Transit runs up Nunanu Valley and may some day reach the Pali, where Alice Roosevelt is snapped. Here a hun- dred years ago Kamehameha the Great drove thousands of the Oahu army over this precipice. There is a gentle slope up Nuuanu Valley from Honolulu, and then a sheer drop of 1200 feet. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC
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The Honolulu Gas Company maintains at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets spacious exhi- bition rooms and a parlor where everyone is welcome.
Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC
Drop us a postal for FREE SAMPLES of PINEAPPLE SILK, the beautiful sheer fabric so popular for dainty Summer dresses and evening gowns. In all plain shades and many pretty stripes; 27 to 36 inches wide, 50c to $1.00 per yard. B. F. EHLERS & CO., Honolulu. Hawaii. THE MID-PACIFIC 7
The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents Pacific Mail S. S .Co., The American-Hawaiian and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines.
The Beautiful and Spacious Rotunda of the Hackfeld Building. 8 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Co., Ltd. This Company Stores its Fertilizer in Honolulu in the Largest Concrete Building West of the Rockies.
Lit CONS
BRAYING COMPAN
Peerless Preserving Paint Co., Ltd., and the Honolulu Construction & Draying Co. have their offices at 65 Queen Street. A postal or telephone call (2281) will be re- sponded to by a foreman, who will give full particulars and a careful estimate. THE MID-PACIFIC 9
E. 0. Hall & Son, Cor. Fort and King Streets.
Royal Hawaiian Hotel.
"The Blaisdell" is the newest and most up-to- date Hotel in Honolulu. It is run on the Euro- pean plan, being situ- ated in the heart of the city, (Fort Street and Chaplain Lane). It is near all the downtown Clubs, Cafes, and Res- taurants. The rates are moderate—running wa- ter in every room. Pub- lic baths as well as the private, have hot and cold water. Telephones in all the rooms, ele- vator and pleasant lanais. Mrs. C. A. Blaisdell is the proprietress, as well as of The Majestic, which is a first-class rooming house, corner Beretania and Fort Sts. The Blaisdell.
10 THE MID-PACIFIC
THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF HONOLULU.
The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has occupied its premises on the corner of Merchant and Kaahumanu streets since the year 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the Islands, and the institu- tion has ever since been closely identified with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M. Damon and Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cockburn. On June 30, 1913, the deposits with this bank amounted to $6,493,462.87. BANK OF HONOLULU, LTD., located in Fort street, is an old established financial institution. It draws exchange on the prin- cipal parts of the world, issues cable The Entrance to the Bank of Hawaii. transfers, and transacts a general bank- ing business. THE MID-PACIFIC 11
If you contemplate building a home, see the architect and then the Hustace- Peck Co. for your draying and crushed rock material. Draying in Honolulu is an important business, and Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., are the pioneers in this line, and keep drays of every size, sort and de- scription for the use of those who re- quire them. They also conduct a rock crusher, and supply crushed rock. Their office is at 63 Queen street, and the 'phone number is 2295.
Fort is the leading business street of Honolulu, and above is pictured the in- terior of one of its leading stores, that of H. F. Wichman & Co., Jewelers. Seemingly the big store of H. F. Wichman & Co., Ltd., occupies more than half the block on Fort street be- tween King and Hotel streets. Wich- man's is one of the show places of the city. Here you may profitably spend a day over the great cases of silverware. If you have jewels which need setting, are interested in diamonds, or are look- ing for a weeding present, you will visit Wichman's. The very fashionable shops are in the Alexander Young Building, and the largest of these is that of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the ultra fashionable stationery of the latest design is kept in stock. Every kind of paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as well as printers' and binders' supplies. There are musical instruments of every kind in stock, even to organs and pianos and the Angelus piano player. Either the resident or the tourist will find the Hawaiian News Co. stores of interest. The phone is 224. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC
Eleanor Rivenburgh, :s.nna C. Dole, Leola Harvey-Elder, Annie M. Felker, Tom McGiffen, E. S. Goodhue, W. F. Sabin, P. Maurice McMahon, H. M. Ayres, C. D. Wright, Sanford B. Dole, Dr. E. V. Wilcox, C. F. Merrill and Jack Densham. There are also extracts dealing with local subjects from the works of Charles Warren Stoddard, Rollin M. Daggett, Robert Louis Stevenson and Mark Twain. Three editions, De Luxe, limited to 100 copies, bound in Limp Art leather, silk lined, deckle edge paper, illustrated with photographs. A dainty gift edition, $5.00. Tapa bound in Hawaiian tapa, boards, a souvenir edition, $1.50. Paper bound, in rough cover paper, a pocket edition, $1. For sale at all book stores, or address Charles D. Wright, P. 0. Box 455, Honolulu, T. H. "Bits of Verse From Hawaii" is the The OAHU ICE and ELECTRIC Co. sup- title of a beautiful little volume that plies the Army in Honolulu at a cheaper • has recently come from the press, and rate than the United States Government it is everything that its name implies. can buy ice in Alaska. The works and These "bits of verse" have been culled cold storage rooms are in the Kakaako by C. D. Wright from the many sources district, but a phone message to 1218 will visitors and kamaainas use to express answer every purpose as the company their love for Hawaii, and are right from has its auto delivery trucks. the heart, and were written with never The Kwong Yuen Hing Co., at 36-38 a thought that they would find their way King St., between Nuuanu and Smith into a compilation that would help to im- Sts., are the largest importers and whole- mortalize the most beautiful spot on sale dealers in Chinese Mattings, Fine earth—Hawaii : beloved by all its resi- Teas and General Merchandise. dents and by all who visit and pass on. People on Oahu can telephone 1484, The verses are from the pens of a and those away will have their needs number of local writers, including Mary prompetly attended to by writing to Dillingham Frear, Anna M. Paris, Em- KWONG YUEN HING CO., P. 0. Box 992, ma L. Dillingham, Anne M. Prescott, Honolulu, Hawaii.
THE MID-PACIFIC 13 Honolulu Trust Companies The Trent Trust Co., incorporated in The Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., a 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, $200,000 incorporation, with $100,000 now has $100,000 in fully-paid cash issued and paid, occupies the spacious capital and an earned surplus account of quarters at the corner of Fort and $20,000. Its assets have grown until Merchant streets. Here the wireless they stand now at $270,000 gross ; and system for Hawaii was born, and housed the policy of the Company in conserving until very recently. There are spacious the financial and property interests of its vaults for valuable papers, insurance de- clients has proven so satisfactory to its partment, real estate feature, and every patrons that its list of customers shows department common to the up-to-date steady growth from year to year; and trust company. The managers were for three different times has it been found years associated with Henry Water- necessary to enlarge its quarters in order house, before the firm that had stood for to handle its increasing business. The half a century was incorporated as a Trent Trust Co. makes a specialty of trust company. The telephone number handling estates, collecting incomes, and is 1208. investing surplus or idle funds. In this One of the largest Japanese merchan- branch of its business it has clients in many parts of dising establishments in the Islands is the world, including the that controlled and managed by Taisuke British Isles, Europe, China, Japan, and Murakami and located at 32-34 Hotel the American mainland from Boston to Street, near Nuuanu street, Honolulu. San Francisco and up into Canada. The This firm imports direct from the Orient Company also does a large real estate and deals both wholesale and retail in and general insurance business, repre- Japanese dry goods, curios, silks and senting in the Islands the Mutual Life general merchandise. The business was Insurance Co. of New York, and some established in 1905 by the father of the strong fire companies. Its membership present manager, who, born in Hawaii, in the Honolulu Stock and Bond Ex- and after graduating from the Nogaya change enables it to buy and sell securi- Commercial Academy in Japan, returned ties on the best favorable terms. to take charge of the business which has The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., grown from year to year under his is the most recently incorporated Trust capable administration. Address P. 0. Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders Box 876, or phone 1375. are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its directors and officers are men of ability, integrity and high standing in the com- munity. The Company was incorporated in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, the Capital of the Company was $200,- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided Profits $22,573..7. It conducts a trust company business in al lits various lines with offices in the Bank of Hawaii Build- ing. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Kahului Railway now connects Kahului with the Wailuku, Puunene, Paia, and the new Haiku pineapple district. A trip over the line is one not to be forgotten.
A View of Kaimuki from Wilhelmina Rise. THE MID -PACIFIC 15
One of the oldest and most reliable in hermetically-sealed tins for use in the business houses of Honolulu is that of tropics at no extra charge. Allen & Robinson on Queen street, People don't usually die in Honolulu, phone 2105. This firm for generations but when they do they phone in ad- has supplied the people of Honolulu vance to Henry H. Williams, 1146 and those on the other islands with Fort street, phone number 1408, and their building materials and paints. he arranges the after details. If you Their office is on Queen street, near the are a tourist and wish to be interred Inter-Island S. S. Building, and their in your own plot on the mainland, lumber yards extend right back to the Williams will em balm you ; or he will harbor front, where every kind of hard arrange all details for interment in and soft wood grown on the coast is Honolulu. Don't leave the Paradise landed by the schooners that ply to of the Pacific for any other, but if you Puget Sound. must, let your friends talk it over with Music is not neglected in Hawaii. Williams. Ernest Kaai has his Hawaiian Conserva- The Maui Stables in Wailuku maintain tory in the Alexander Young building, an auto, rig, and horseback service to •and here he teaches the use of the native every available part of the Island of ukulele. It is the Kaai Glee Club that Maui. If you contemplate a trip to provides all of the Social Music for Haleakala, around the Island of Maui, or Honolulu. In Hawaii people dance to a stay on that island, communicate with vocal as well as to instrumental music the Maui Stables, or call for the infor- and all of Kaai's musicians arc excellent mation at the office of Wells-Fargo & singers, who sing in both English and Co., in Honolulu. in Hawaiian. From Kaai's Glee Club the youth of Hawaii learn the songs of In building your house, and after, you the people. Ernest Kaai can supply a will need the expressman. The easiest quartette for a small dance or as many way is to phone orders to 1281. This is as fifty musicians for a big public affair. the City Transfer Co., Jas .H. Love, It is worth while visiting the studio manager, King St., near Fort. and studying the native Hawaiian musi- cal instruments. The Consolidated Soda Water Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort street, are the largest in the Territory and well worth a visit at lunch time. Aerated waters cost but little in Hawaii, from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The Consolidated is agent foi Hires Root Beer and puts up a Kola Mint aerated water that is delicious, be- sides a score of other flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any store. If you have films, or need supplies, The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak headquarters, Fort Street, develops and prints for tourists within a few hours. All photo supplies, films, film packs, plates, cameras, island scenes, photo- graps, etc., always in stock. Develop- ing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70 cents a dozen ; roll films, 60 cents a dozen printing, 70 cents. Fresh films packed 16 THE MID-PACIFIC
Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the the age of sixty years he supervises his chief port and from Hilo excusions are vast estate, and is hale and hearty with made up to all the points of interest. The a proud father in China at the ripe old Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken age of ninety-four years ; over $2000.00 up the matter of home promotion work a month is his monthly rental collec- and is developing the wonderful scenic tions for improved property. surroundings of Hilo. Trails are being Honolulu and Hawaii are fortunate in cut to the beauty spots, and roads put in having a plumbing establishment such as order. It was the Hilo Board of Trade the one of E. W. Quinn, who has erected that called the first civic convention in Honolulu what is probably the most which is now bringing all the Hawaiian complete and up-to-date plumbing estab- Islands together to work for each other. lishment this side of the Rockies. So it The Hilo Board of Trade is taking the is that the great and small buildings of lead in Home promotion work in these Honolulu and Hawaii are enabled to put islands. In this line of work the Hilo in the most sanitary and up-to-date Board of Trade has the hearty co-opera- plumbing at a minimum cost. There is tion of the Hilo Railway. This Railway no job too large or too small in the terri- has recently extended its rails thirty- two tory for this perfectly equipped estab- miles along the precipitous coasts of lishment to handle. Lapauhoehoe and beyond. This thirty- Centrally located, in Honolulu's com- two mile rail trip is one of the scenic modious shopping district, is the Manu- trips of the world. The Hilo Railway facturer's Shoe Co., Ltd. , Here the most also extends in the opposite direction to fastidious shoppers are drawn by the al- the hot springs of Puna, and a branch luring display of footwear shown in the with the Auto Service takes the tourist artistic windows. Satisfaction is one of from the steamer wharf to the edge of the assurances with which a purchase is the ever active Kilauea. On the line of the Hilo Railway are scores of steel made, whether it be a pair of laces, or a bridges, some built almost in the form of pair of dainty evening slippers so neces- a horse-shoe. Many of these bridges sary to the happiness of the well dressed were designed and constructed by the woman of today. A general line of shoes Pacific Engineering Co. of Honolulu, from heavy boots suitable for out of which company also supervised the con- doors, to dame fashion's latest dictation struction of the steel bridges along the for the ballroom, is carried for the hosts line of the Kahului Railway on the Isl- of friends and patrons of the firm. Sel- and of Maui, as well as constructing the dom does this attractive store front escape Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu. Rising from a common gardener of the eye of the visitor to Honolulu. Once 43 years ago, Mr. Y. Ahin is now the inside one finds a courteous force of sales- possessor of many. lands and a fine family men ever on the alert to minister to the of children all born in these Islands. At wants of particular people. THE MID-PACIFIC 17
THE DONNA is an exclusive family Ever since his arrival in the Hawaiian hotel composed of several cottages, be- Islands thirty-seven years ago, Mr. Goo tween Keeaumoku and Piikoi streets. The Kim Fook has been held in high esti- appointments at this hotel are perfect and mation by his associates and the gen- the home cooking makes it a residence of eral public, until today he stands as a permanent guests, although many tourists leader among the Chinese and as part are accommodated in the season. owner and manager of the Kong Sang THE SEASIDE HOTEL, as its name im- Yuen Co., dry goods store, at 1017 Nuu- plies, is at Waikiki, where the famous anu St., between King and Hotel Sts., surf-riders come up to the beach on their and receives the trade of all nationali- boards. This hotel is the one, ideal ties. Mr. Fook is interested in all edu- tropical hotel in Honolulu, with the cational movements and has two fine thatched cottages scattered here and sons, one in school and the other one there among the royal coconut grove. associated with him in business at the The terms are moderate and the appoint- Kong Sang Yuen Co., store—a good ments all that can be desired. place to trade. VIDA VILLA, a number of cottages Unadulterated bread and pastry is an and a spacious house in a luxurious gar- essential need in every home—the Sam den of palms, which is located at 1040 Wo Co., bakery at 384 North Beretania King street, where cars pass every five St., under the management of S. Lum minutes toward the business center, or Fat, has for years supplied the homes of toward Waikiki beach. Rates per day, Honolulu with pure bread and pastry. $1.50; by the month, $35.00 up. This A steady growth of the business clearly home hotel is within walking distance demonstrates what the quality must be of "down town." Mrs. L. B. Evans is —telephone orders are promptly deliv- proprietor of this beautiful property. ered to all parts of the city. Phone 1146. A suit of clothes made by the W. W. Honolulu was the first city in the world Ahana Co., on King St., Honolulu, de- to install a house to house telephone sys- notes correct style, fit and selection from tem. The MUTUAL TELEPHONE CO. iS exclusive imported fabrics of exclusive now perfecting the system on th.I other pattern and design. Mr. Chuck Hoy is islands, having installed the automatic known to all who keep in touch with system which gives perfect satisfaction, leaders of men and his management to- allowing a man of any nationality use gether with Mr. Wong Vun, who studied the phone. The Marconi Wireless Sys- in the famous Mitchell School of Tailor- tem has its office in the same building as ing in New York City, as a partner, that of the Mutual Telephone Co., so that make the W. W. Ahana Co. hard to ex- wireless messages can be sent or received cel as exclusive tailors. by telephone. At the corner of Beretania and Aala Sts., stands the business of Lee Kau, who is the principal owner and manager of the Lee Kau Co., experts in making and repairing wagons and carriages of all description—in fact Lee Kau guar- antees satisfaction—people wishing vehi- cles of any description should get in touch with the Lee Kau Co. Telephone 1944. Lee Kau Co. will give you the lowest prices on carriage and wagon work. Mr. Lee Kau came to the Islands twenty years ago. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC
One hardly realizes the immense re- are received by every steamer., This isi sources of the grocery store of Henry the bargain book store of the city. May & Co., in the Boston Block on Fort The oldest established Dry Goods street, unless one spends a couple of House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situat- hours taking stock of the domestic and ed at the corner of Fort and Beretania imported eatables and drinkables there Sts. For over a quarter of a century sold. Not only the largest grocery this store has held an enviable reputa- store in the Territory, but the one enjoy- tion for high-class merchandise. The ing the finest trade, Henry May & Co. are beautiful court dresses worn at the re- rightly called "The Housekeepers' Ally" ceptions and balls in the days of the Hawaiian Monarchy were made by this —as housewives have learned to depend firm. Then, as now, Sachs' was the on everything this firm sells. They make rendezvous for ladies who desired the a specialty of fine Kona (native) Coffee very best in Silks and Dress Fabrics, and have installed a gas roaster and cof- Tapestries, Draperies, Linens, Laces fee mill to make this product ready for and Millinery. the customer. Every steamer brings The business man in Hawaii outfits his Fresh California Fruit and Vegetables, office from the American-Hawaiian Paper and Supply Co. The wholesale and Puritan Creamery Butter, for cus- and retail headquarters are at the cor- tomers—many of whom have traded with ner of Fort and Queen streets. If there Henry May & Co. since the firm started, is anything from paper bags to blank many years ago. books, paper of any quality, from a pound to a ton, the American-Hawaiian In front of the Chambers Drug Store, Paper Supply Company can fill the con- at the corner of Fort and King streets, tract. the main street car lines intersect ; here No home is complete in Honolulu the shoppers and business men wait for without a ukulele, a piano and a Vic their cars. Usually they count on miss- for talking machine. The Bergstrom ing a car or two while they sit and chat Music Co., with its big store on Fort street, will provide you with these—a at the open soda fountain that the Cham- Chickering, a Weber, a Kroeger for bers Drug Company has placed before your mansion, or a tiny upright Bou- their spacious open doorway on the cor- doir for your cottage ; and if you are ner. At Chambers' drug store the be- a transient it will rent you a piano. wildered tourist of the day from the big The Bergstrom Music Co., phone 2321, books your theater tickets for the liners is set straight, introduced to Dole's Royal Hawaiian Opera House. bottled pineapple juice, the drink of the Kona Coffee means the real bean country, advised as to the sights of the grown in Hawaii. One firm in Hawaii, city, supplied with any perfumes, can- the McChesney Coffee Co., on Mer- dies or drugs he may need during his chant street, makes a specialty of aging stay, and made to feel at home. and perfecting the Hawaiian coffee bean. You may phone an order for a The Cross Roads Book Shop adjoins sack of this real Old Kona Coffee to be the Hawaiian News Co., and is a contin- sent to friends in the States, but it is uation of the great fashionable bazaar. better to call in person and learn some- thing of this Hawaiian product, used in In the Cross Roads Book Store the liter- the States by coffee blenders to lend ature of America, Europe and the Orient flavor to the insipid South American is kept in stock The novels of the day coffee that floods the market.
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19 20 THE MID-PACIFIC
A beautiful and somewhat valuable pic- written in view of acquainting the incom- ture is often ruined by neglecting to have ing tourist of an excellent place to pro- it framed. The ARTS & CRAFTS SHOP, cure meals while in the city. Table-d-hote LTD., 1122 Fort street, Honolulu, T. H., lunches and dinners at popular prices are experts in the art of picture framing prevail and it is needless to say the crui- and will guarantee satisfaction and serv- sine is the best the market affords. ice. Bring in your Picture today and Prompt service and courteous treatment talk it over. Picture sent by mail will is the slogan of the "Union Grill" on be promptly frame and returned. Don't King Street, ask anybody to direct you forget the name ARTS & CRAFTS SHOP, when hungry. Mr. J. D. Detor, who LTD., 1122 Fort St., Honolulu, T. H. has had many years' experience in hotel "Maile" Australian butter frrom the and cafe work, is in charge. Metropolitan Meat Market on King St., Probably one of the most widely known stands at the head for flavor and keeping wholesale commission merchants in the quality and is guaranteed. It is here Hawaiian Islands is F. E. DAVIES & CO. you also get the tender meats and fresh corner Merchant and Nuuanu streets. vegetables of which an abundant supply It is here you may place orders for is always on hand. Heilbron & Louis Wagons, Bicycles and Bicycle Tires. proprietors, have built up a wonderful Hardware, Dry Goods, Shoes, heavy business through constancy and many Chemicals for plantation use, all kinds years' experience until now the METRO- and sizes of Rubber Hose and Belting, POLITAN MEAT MARKET is the central and in fact nearly all commodities of and most popular market place in Hono- commercial value can be ordered through lulu. Telephone 1814. this enterprising concern. Enquiries by While the UNION GRILL is recognized mail will receive prompt attention and as the most popular Cafe in Honolulu by those who call at our offices will receive all progressive Hawaiians, this article is courteous treatment. THE MID-PACIFIC
Entrance of Lewers & Cooke's large establishment.
The .VON HAM M YOUNG CO., Import- Chicken raising in the Hawaiian Isl- ers, Machinery Merchants and leading ands can be successfully carried on at a automobile dealers, have their offices and profit of from 50 to 100 per cent. The store in the Alexander Young Building, "CALIFORNIA FEED Co." of Honolulu at the corner of King and Bishop Sts., will give full instructions to anyone who and their magnificent automobile sales- is interested in "Chicken" raising as to room and garage just in the rear, facing the best methods of procedure, how to on Alakea street. Here one may find start, how to avoid and cure sore-head almost anything desired in the machin- and some general dont's in the raising of ery line, as well as the most extensive "Chickens" will be given free to those and complete line of automobile supplies who answer this article. Just drop a in the Islands, to say nothing of the large line to the "CALIFORNIA FEED Co.", Ho- stock of automobiles. nolulu, for full information regarding successful "Chicken" raising in the Ha- waiian Islands. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC
In June, 1911, Dr. Dai Yen Chang ferent species of edible fish found in the opened in the McCandless Building at Hawaiian waters—several merchants are the corner of Pauahi and Nuuanu Sts., interested in this market although Mr. the first Chinese dentist offices in Hono- Y. Anin is the leading spirit and lulu—at twenty-five years of age he is founder. a graduate of the Northwestern Univer- The City Mill Co., Mr. C. K. Ai, sity Dental Department of Chicago with Treasurer and Manager, with plant lo- the degree of D.D.S.—his clientel con- cated at Queen and Kekaulike streets, sists of all nationalities, and at times his constitutes one of the leading industrial office is filled with people of all nations. enterprises in Honolulu and do a flour- There is no doubt about the YEE Yi ishing lumber and mill business. The up- CHAN, Chinese restaurant at 119 Hotel to-date mill stands as a monument to St., being the best Chinese restaurant in pluck and energy on the part of Mr. Ai Honolulu. It simply is. Upstairs one and his associates. can get the best Chinese dinner of any- Yang Cheu Kiam is a druggist and where in the Islands and that's going has three popular stores in Honolulu, some. Tourists will do well to ask about one at 1071 Aala St., one at 1036 Mau- the Yee Yi Chan Chinese Restaurant nakea St., and at the corner of Bere- while sojourning here. tania and Fort Sts. Arriving in Hono- The most popular Chinese dry goods lulu in 1882 with nothing but a fair store in Honolulu is the YEE CHAN & education he has advanced to his pres- Co., store at the corner of King and ent position as a druggist, also as a Bethel Sts. Tourists will do well to re- large property holder—he is very gen- member that it is here they can buy the erous and deserves his many successes finest imported Chinese and Japanese in life. Silks as well as a full and complete Mr. Lee Chu of the Lee Chu Lumber stock of imported Fancy Dry Goods, Co., at Pauahi and River Sts., was the Grass Linen Goods, Clothing, Hats, first Chinese to engage in the lumber Shoes, Trunks, Traveling Cases, etc., business in Hawaii, and his steadily etc.—remember the name YEE CHAN & growing business denotes him to be a Co., Honolulu, Hawaii. leader in the lumber trade as his well- One of the most enterprising con- stocked yards indicate. Mr. Lee Chu is cerns, in Honolulu, is that of the Quong the principal owner and manager of this Sam Kee Co., at the corner of King and large and progressive company. Maunakea Sts. This firm, under the Lee Chuck at 729 Alakea St., for- management of Mr. Chu Gem, who is merly known as Achew Brothers, do a recognized as one of Hawaii's leading thriving business in Dry Goods, Grocer- Chinese, carry a full line of general ies, Fruits and Vegetables of all kinds merchandise, and drugs, supplying the with free deliveries to any part of the local dealers throughout the territory. city. Lee Chuck stands high in the Mr. K. 0. Kam, manager and organ- estimation of business men throughout izer of the City Mercantile Co., at 24 the community and deserves generous .Hotel St., Honolulu, is ranked as one of patronage for his many, good deeds. the rising young business men of the city—dealers in all household utensils, courteous treatment is extended to all who do business with them. The Oahu Fish Market on King St., Honolulu, is one of the most interesting show places in the city—here one may see all the types of the different nation- alities of the islands as well as the dif- THE MID-PACIFIC 23
One of the American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and Honolulu, via Straits of Magellan. ACROSS THE PACIFIC There are two ways to Hawaii, Aus- The Vancouver-Australia boats also tralia and Japan. From San Francisco stop for a day at Suva, Fiji, where the or from Vancouver. From San Fran- native of the South Seas may be seen cisco the Oceanic S. S. Co. dispatches in his pristine simplicity. A month's one of its boats every two weeks to Ho- stop-over, both in Hawaii and Suva, nolulu. Every four weeks one of its ves- may be made to advantage. By the big sels stops at Honolulu and goes on to cruising steamers of the Union Steam- Australia. ship Company there is a monthly cruise The Matson Navigation Co. also navi- in either direction, from Auckland to gates vessels to Hawaii, and through Sydney, stopping at ports of Fiji, Sa- tickets to Australia are sold from San moa and Tonga ; the fare on these Francisco by this line. The Pacific Mail cruises being $5 a day. dispatches a steamer for the Orient every The Union Steamship Co. makes a ten days, stopping at Honolulu. specialty of this cruise. There are From Vancouver the Canadian-Aus- cruises, annually, to the wonderful West tralian Line dispatches one of its splendid Coast sounds of New Zealand, grander steamers every fourth Wednesday via than the Fjords of Norway. There are Honolulu, Suva and Auckland to Sydney. monthly cruises to the Cook Islands and The "Niagara", the largest and finest Tahiti, where direct connection is made steamship playing south of the line, is on for San Francisco. this run. . , int It is 2400 miles from Vancouver to ,4 rim Honolulu, and the fare by the Cana- dian-Australian monthly palatial steam- 0!), ers is $65.00 up, first-class. The through 11.17"‘ fare to Australia is $200, with stop-over privileges. These Pacific Ocean grey- hounds stop for a day in Honolulu on 111111111511/11 the trips to and from the Australian Colonies. The vessels of this Trans- WitibialWAINIII AUSTM Pacific line belong to the Union S. S. Co. of New Zealand, the third largest steamship company flying the British ...... ,.., .,,_...._ , flag. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand
Native New Zealanders at Rotorua. Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government west coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand, a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- tains are some of the largest and most ship Co. also transfers passengers from scenic glaciers in the world. In these Sydney. The Government Tourist Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- twelve thousand feet high. On its slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 25 Australia for the Tourist Climate exerts a wonderful influence dezvous for fashion and beauty, who on scenery. The Continent of Austra- revel in the exhilarating Alpine de- lia—a vast territory equal in extent to lights of ski-running, ice-skating and the United States of America—with its tobogganing. finger tips almost reaching the equator In every State are extensive series at Cape York, the northern extremity of underground caves — at Chillagoe of Queensland, and Tasmania dipping its Caves in Queensland, Jenolan, Wom- feet in the icy waters of the Southern beyan and Yarrangobilly in New Ocean, for 200 miles it boldly sweeps South Wales—at Buchan in Victoria, from north to south through the trop- Naracoorte in South Australia, Yal- ical, subtropical and temperate zones. lingup in Western Australia, and at But by far the biggest part lies Chudleigh in Tasmania. They are of within the temperate zone, and enjoys bewildering extent and transcendental a remarkably equable and salubrious beauty. climate, like that of southern France Australian rivers are miniatures and Italy. The proof of the salubrity compared to the Amazon or Hudson, of the Australian climate is reflected in but there are those who prefer a mini- the fact that the country's death rate ature to a large canvas. What Austra- is the lowest in the world. lian streams may lack in grandeur is Australia has much to show the richly compensated for by their com- tourist. It opens up a new field of in- pelling beauty and abiding charm. terest and pleasure for the round-the- The Australian coastline is a world world traveler, and for the political of delightful holiday places. There is and social student. a stupendous chain of rocky promon- It is true it holds no single out- tories endlessly linked by golden standing feature which may be held beaches of glistening sands, washed by before the world as without parallel. the foaming breakers of the Blue Pa- Australia has no falls like Niagara, no cific. Surfbathing by both sexes in canyons like Colorado, nor river like Australia's glorious sunshine has come the Mississippi. It nevertheless has to be a feature of the National Life. many fine waterfalls of striking beauty, Australia possesses several magnifi- like the Barron Falls in Queensland, cent lacustrine districts, notably the and the Fitzroy Falls in New South Gippsland Lakes in Victoria, the Lakes Wales. It has many magnificent trout of the Tasmania Tableland—Great streams, notably the Goodradigbee and Lake and Lake St. Clair, and the Myall Upper Murray, which have by experi- Lakes of New South Wales. The dom- enced anglers been given pride of inant note of these secluded spots is place before the famous Scottish their air of restful quiet, where tired streams. It has many chains of moun- constitutions renew their vitality and tains, not of the titanic proportions of overwrought nerves are reinvigorated. the Andes or Rockies, but which con- Australia teems with scenic resorts, tain stupendous bluffs and gaping distinct and unique, just because they chasms, and have a distinct and ap- are Australian. Australia has its own pealing grandeur. The Blue Moun- characteristics, its very atmosphere is tains are known wherever Australia is Australian ; its landscape colorings be- known, for their peculiar atmospheric long to it, and to it alone. It has fauna mantle which always enshrouds them, and flora absolutely apart. for their gorgeous colorings, their fairy- Full information concerning Austra- lands of fern, and their orchestral cas- lia as a country for the Tourist may be cades and waterfalls. At Kosciusko, obtained from the Secretary, Depart- Australia's greatest mountain, higher ment of External Affairs, Melbourne, than Righi or Pilatus, and on the Buf- and the Directors of the Government falo Mountains in Victoria, the coun- Tourist Bureaux in the Capitals of tryside is deeply snow-covered in win- Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Ade- ter, and these resorts are made the ren- laide, Perth and Hobart. 26 THE MID-PACIFIC New South Wales Tourist Bureau tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of rare magnificence. Through countless centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- dous gorges, comparable only to the famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- tus covered slopes give off health-giving odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring panoramas, impress themselves on the memory of the mountain visitor. The wonderful system of limestone caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- tions, which must for ever remain the despair of the painter, the photographer and the writer. The world has no more Physical configuration and a wide marvelous or beautiful system of caves range of climate give the State of New than these at Jenolan, which tourists South Wales its wonderful diversity of from everywhere have marked as their scenery, its abundance of magnificent own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- plemented and rivalled by the extensive ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- bewildering array of scenic attractions, ly, a little further away from Sydney. and the peculiar strangeness of the forms In the south on the Australian Alps, of its animal and vegetable life, which lies the unique Kosciusko Range, which makes New South Wales one of the most contains the highest peak in the Conti- interesting countries in the world, and nent, and is said to be the oldest land sur- one which an up-to-date, well-traveled face on the globe. The Hotel Kosciusko, tourist must see. a modern spa, replete with every conve- The climate of the State ranges from nience, golf links and tennis courts, an the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the ideal tourist headquarters, stands at an sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- altitude of 6000 feet. In summer, the ers, and withal is one of the most equable mountaineer and trout fisherman stays in the world. Its eastern shore is washed here to enjoy the majestic scenery at the by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific summit, or fill his bag with fish caught and stretches by meadow, tableland and in a handy stream, and in winter the ski- mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath runner, tobogganer and ice-skater revels the rim of the setting sun. in the Alpine carnivals conducted on the Sydney, the capital, is the great tour- glistening snowfields. ist rendezvous. It is an important com- The Government Tourist Bureau, a mercial center, but the incomparable splendidly equipped Institution at Challis beauty of its situation has given it wide- House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- spread fame as a holiday city. Its mighty mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to harbor with its peculiar and sustained all inquirers in connection with the tour- beauty, is the talk of the world. North ist resorts of the State. Special itinera- and South from the capital is flung the ries are planned, and everything possible rugged Pacific coast, with its line of is done by the Bureau to facilitate the golden dazzling beaches, the palpitating mcvements and put to the best use the haunts of the surf bather. time of visitors while in New South Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- Wales. THE MID-PACIFIC 27 The Railways of New South Wales The State Railways of New South Mountains are but sixty miles from Wales penetrate almost every part of Sydney, and special low rate week-end scenic Australia. Westward they cross tickets are sold to these. In fact, all the wonderful Blue Mountains to the kinds of cheap railway excursions are marvelous plains that stretch across cen- arranged from time to time by the Rail- tral Australia. Southward they extend ways. The State Railways of New along the scenic coast and diverge to- South Wales have in Challis House, ward the finest grazing and wheat coun- Martin Place, a booking office for all of try of the continent, for it is in southern the lines, and as the Government Tourist New South Wales that is being built at Bureau and its splendid exhibition rooms Burronjack the greatest dam in the are in the same building, the tourist world. It is the southern Railway line may book here for any part of the con- that carries the tourist to the Mt. Kos- tinent, or arrange his tours by rail, ciusko district, this mountain being the motor and steamer. From Challis House highest peak in Australia, and the dis- the excursionist may book by rail and trict, the Alpine region of the Island motor for the marvelous Jenolan Caves Continent. The northern line makes by way of the Blue Mountains, or for known the North Coast district and the Yarrangobilly Caves by way of Tu- penetrates into the great timberland of mut, a typical interior Australian town. the north. This section also taps the Here with the approval of the Govern-. wonderful Darling Downs, and connects ment Tourist Bureau, special low rate with the Railway for Brisbane, and the rail, motor, and hotel tickets are sold for scenic splendours of Queensland. an inclusive trip to the summit of Mt. Nightly trains of sleeping cars leave Kosciusko. It is a wise provision that Sydney for Melbourne and Brisbane. the Government Railways booking office, These sleeping cars are different from the immigration bureau and the tourist the American in that they are divided bureau of New South Wales are all lo- into two and four berth compartments ; cated in the same building, as the three each stateroom having its own toilet work together hand in hand to make conveniences. Notwithstanding the ad- New South Wales known to the tourist, vantages, the rates or the same as on the immigrant, and investor. The Railways pullman cars ; ten shillings or $2.50 in addition to the first-class fare. To the of New South Wales are governed by immigrant who is looking for land the three commissioners. The secretary of New South Wales Railways give a the Chief Commissioner is Mr. J. S. special ticket good over all the lines for Spurway, whose pleasure it is to see that a month at a very low rate. For the any inquirers are supplied with what in- tourist landing in Sydney special very formation they desire concerning the low rate tickets to Melbourne, Adelaide, Government Railway system of New and Brisbane are issued. The Blue South Wales ? 28 THE MID-PACIFIC Scenic Splendors of Victoria The mountains of Victoria are the ernment chalet are issued on Fridays by most picturesque of any in Australia. the 4 p. m. Express train from Mel- The agricultural country is the most ac- bourne and the entire cost is but five cessible as the Victorian Railways are pounds or $25. There are special seven- planning to bring every grain grower day trips including rail, accommodation, within ten miles of a railway. Her sea- and coach drives for but three pounds or side resorts are the most salubrious, $15. The Government arranges trips to and at one of them, St. Kildas, is the the Lakes, Buchan Caves, the Victorian largest inclosed swimming bath in the Alpine district, and the sea-side resorts. world. The State Railway has estab- From time to time on this and succeed- lished in the center of business Mel- ing pages, you will learn something of bourne a Government Tourist Informa- the wonders of Victoria. tion Bureau and ticket office. Here in- From Sydney or from Adelaide, the formation is distributed and tickets sold over-seas or New Zealand tourist is to the Victorian resorts. Special low given a very low railway rate to Mel- rate fares are made to the over-sea tour- bourne, and his wisest course on arrival ist, and there are tempting week-end is to call at the Victorian Government trips. Where it is necessary, the govern- Tourist Bureau opposite the Town Hall ment erects its own hotel in the moun- on Collins Street, where handbooks, maps tains. It has its Chalet on the beautiful Buffalo Plateau, which is a mountain and hotel guides are issued on applica- wonderland superior to any in Australia, tion, mad in the same office railway tick- and this is being developed. Skiing ets may be purchased to any part of courses are being laid out and tracks cut Australia. If you are writing for in- to the many beauty spots. To this re- formation it would be wise to drop a gion, inclusive week-end tickets covering line to Mr. E. B. Jones, the acting transport and accommodation at the gov- Secretary of the Victorian Railways.
Country life in Victoria. THE MID-PACIFIC 2) Victoria for the Farmer Of seventeen American irrigation farm- equal to anything in California, while ers who crossed the Pacific to investigate the danger of frost did not exist. The the irrigated lands of Victoria, fifteen re- American is welcomed in Victoria. An mained and one voluntarily returned to American, Elwood Meade, being at the America to bring out another party of head of the irrigation propaganda of fifteen American farmers. These ex- Victoria. Mr. Meade will be remember- perienced grain growers of Western ed with George Girling and William E. America, familiar with irrigated lands of Smythe in America as one of the or- California and the other Western States, iginal callers of the first American ir- stated that the price of five shillings an rigation congress. It is an odd coinci- acre for the annual water rights, charged dence that George Girling in the Hart- by the Victorian Government, was many ford Building, Chicago, and Elwood times lower than any water rate in Meade in the Executive Buildings in America. They also found that the land Melbourne, are working together to let could be purchased for a fourth of the the American farmer know what the ir- price per acre that similar land would rigated lands of the State of Victoria cost in the Western United States, and offer him. From England the State of moreover that the price received by the Victoria assists selected farm workers, farmer for his irrigated products was and these inevitably in time become land greater in Australia than in America. owners. The Americans who are com- The policy of the Railways to place ing to Victoria are men of experience. every farmer within ten miles of a rail- They find that they have moved to an- road seemed incredible to the American other American State for all the differ- visitors until they went out on the rail- ence they can find is in the form of gov- ways to study the system of branch lines "ernment. After a three months' resi- adopted by the government. They ex- dence they vote ; Americans having ser- pressed themselves as more than pleased ved in Parliament. Victoria also has an with a government owned railway that Immigration Bureau in San Francisco, will run in the interests of the farmer, so that Americans wishing information instead of as a part of a colossal "trust" may secure books and reading matter that must pay big dividends on enor- free of charge from George Girling in mously watered stock. These farmers the Hartford Building in Chicago, from stated to a representative of the MID- the Victorian Immigration Bureau in PACIFIC MAGAZINE that in every way San Francisco, or from the Department the irrigated fruit lands of Victoria were of Immigration in Melbourne.
Australia's Sheep: Some Fine Merino Specimens. 30 THE MID-PACIFIC Fruitful South Australia and there is a government Intelligence and Tourist Bureau where the tourist, investor or settler is given accurate in- formation, guaranteed by the govern- ment, and free to all. From Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river and motor excursions to almost every part of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted through the magnificent mountain and pastoral scenery of South Australia. The government makes travel easy by a system of coupon tickets and facilities for caring for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions are arranged to the holiday resorts ; individuals or parties are made familar with the industrial resources, and From San Francisco, Vancouver and the American as well as the Britisher is from Honolulu there are two lines of fast made welcome if he cares to make South steamships to Sydney, Australia. Australia his home. From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- The South Australian Intelligence and tralia, there is a direct line of railway on Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on which concession fares are granted King William street, Adelaide, and the tourists arriving from overseas, and no government has printed many illustrated visitor to the Australian Commonwealth books and pamphlets describing the can afford to neglect visiting the south- scenic and industrial resources of the ern central state of Australia ; for South state. A post card or letter to the Intel- Australia is the state of supurb climate ligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide and unrivalled resources. Adelaide, the will secure the books and information garden city of the south, is the capital, you may desire. THE MID-PACIFIC 31 Tasmania for the Tourist
A Fern Forest near Hobart. Tasmania is the Garden State of Aus- see, and that is the wonderful gorge and tralia. At this writing the State Rail- cataracts surrounded by a rugged and ways, the Tasmanian Tourist Bureau at beautiful park given by one of Launces- Hobart and the Bureau at Launceston ton's citizens. From Launceston the are uniting their efforts to arrange for Railway also takes the excursionist to Tasmania to have a tourist bureau sup- the beauty spots along the north and ported and conducted by the Govern- west coasts. The first turbine steamer ment. The work that Hobart has done on the Pacific was the ferryboat placed to advertise and make Tasmania known in service between Launceston and Yiet- deserves the admiration and thanks of b::urne. There is time on leaving Laun- the thousands of tourists who have been ceston to view the beautiful Derwent induced to visit the Hobart region and River, and then a quiet sleep and Mel- to send their friends to visit this beauty bourne is reached in the morning. In spot of Australia, surrounded as it is by Melbourne, the capital of Australia, Tas- one of the most marvelous apple and mania has a splendid tourist bureau in fruit districts in the world. The Ameri- the Union Steamship Company Building can tourist can easily reach Hobart by on William street, dividing the first floor direct steamer from Sydney or from with the New Zealand Tourist Bureau. Auckland by steamer that makes almost Mr. T. E. Emmett is in charge, and will the entire round of New Zealand, and gladly supply literature. Mr. J. Moore visits Hobart. Splendid tours are map- Robinson is in charge of the Tasmanian ped out by the Railway for the tourist Tourist Bureau in Hobart, where Mr. G. after he reaches either Hobart of Laun- A. Smith, the head of the Railways, is ceston. It is but a few hours railway located. Mr. L. S. Bruce is the man- ride across Tasmania from Hobart to ager in charge of the Launceston Bureau Launceston, and here too is a splendid and any of these gentlemen will be and well conducted tourist bureau. pleased to give or forward information There is one sight within Launceston concerning the Garden Island of the that is worth crossing the Pacific to Southern Hemisphere. 32 THE MID-PACIFIC
WONDERFUL WEST AUSTRALIA WEST AUSTRALIA has greater op- way now under construction, will con- portunities to offer the immigrant and nect Perth and the cities of West Aus- the investor than has almost any other tralia with those of the other states of the part of the world, while the beauties of Commonwealth. The world's largest and her tourist resorts are second to none. finest coastal steamers are plying between There are limestone caves as extensive Perth, Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and and as wonderful as any. There are Brisbane ; while the great liners that pass areas of wheat land as extensive as those through Suez make Fremantle their first of the Argentine. By leaps and bounds or last port of call in Australia. In West Australia the laborer is made West Australia has become a great wheat to feel that he is worthy of his hire. He exporting country. There are nearly a has many concessions and his services million square miles of land in West are always in demand. About Perth there Australia awaiting development. The are magnificent areas of some of the population of a few thousand in West finest fruit and vine lands in the world. Australia of a generation ago, is now There are wonderful attractive sea side well up toward the half million mark and and tourist resorts surrounding this Cap- is still rapidly pouring into the country. ital city, and in the southwest part of the As Sydney is the gateway to Australia State are the world famous Yalling up from the American Continent, so Perth, Caves, situated in a country that for West Australia, is the gateway from wildness of beauty, attractiveness and Europe. Fremantle is its port, and the game, is second to none in Australia. day is not far distant when one city will The work of developing West Australia extend for thirteen miles from Fremantle for the immigrant, the tourist and the to Perth. Greater Perth has today a investor is now going on. The Premier population of perhaps a hundred thou- of the State is Mr. J. Scaddan. The sand. It is the livest and most energetic Minister for Immigration is Mr. W. C. city of any in the Commonwealth. It Anguin, and the man in charge of the boasts a department store unexcelled by dissemination of information in this de- any in America. The Swan River on partment is Mr. A. 0. Neville. He is which Perth is situated broadens out to also Secretary of the "Million Club" of several miles near the city, and has be- West Australia, which entertains at come one of the world-famous sailing luncheons in Perth distinguished visitors and regatta courses. The wild swan who pass through West Australia. and the pelican, now tamed to a degree, The Government Tourist Bureau of still make the river near the city their West Australia, its Immigration Depart- home in thousands. ment and its Intelligence Department West Australia is a vast State, but its are always willing to give any informa- railways are being pushed in every di- tion that may be asked for either by mail rection. Soon the trans-Continental Rail- or personal application. THE MID-PACIFIC .33
SUMATRA BATAVIA
JAVA — RAILWAYS VOLNNOES --TRAMWAYS —14144 :XPkESS TEMPLE-5 — aP4NDTPliNIOP0477 SEMARANG AND JAVA THE COLONIAL EXHIBITION at Sema- famous mountain resorts of Java may be rang opens in August and closes in No- reached from Semarang within a day. vember, 1914. It will make Semarang The general colonial exhibition at Se- known around the world. Semarang is marang will give a comprehensive picture the starting point for tourists who wish of the Dutch Indies in their present pros- to visit the near-by world famous Boro- perous condition attained since the re- ' boedoer temple ruins, or the Court of the storation of Dutch rule in 1814. The Sultan at Djockja. Here the great Neth- Javan population has increased from erlands India Railway Company has its six to thirty millions in the century. The magnificent head buildings, and over the foreign trade section will be a most im- lines of this railway splendid excursions portant one. The exhibition will show are made to Central, Southern and East- what the Dutch Indies can produce, but it ern Java, while the State Railway now invites the foreign producer to place his sends its cars through from Batavia in commodities before the teeming millions eight hours, almost to the exhibition of the islands. grounds. The Royal Packet Navigation The Secretary of the Semarang Co- Company has direct service between Se- lonial Exhibition will gladly supply any marang, Souraboya, Batavia and Singa- information concerning the exhibition. It pore, as well as with all of the islands of is expected that the Official Tourist the Dutch Indian Archipelago and Aus- Bureau will have its office on the exhibi- tralia. Through round the Pacific steam- tion grounds to plan trips for visitors, or ship tickets may be bought anywhere it may be addressed at its head office in with stopover privileges at Semarang for Batavia for information about Java and a visit to Java and the exhibition. Semarang. Semarang, in the very center of the Every country about the Pacific should North Java Coast, has the ideal location be represented by exhibits and visitors to of any Javan city. A city of 100,000, it the Semarang Colonial Exhibition from is picturesque in the extreme, and the August to November, 1914. iNIWariNt tilYiNai • It • a I • • rr.■ • • • Lat/Cu • riiiMatteatiVtilW' • s I • • --1 1.1t rtiNillmtrwl • triNtraiWictliMatied r r• • 4) E • ia I. E i • i Y.. E
I. E 5 t:r 5 i 5 . i ftp„. --W, F. K 14 ii7 I CI K ri E i! • 5 • 5 • X. E Vs E 04- t 5 This is a scene in the Wahiawa plantation of the Hawaiian Pineapple Products Co. From the fresh t whole pine is produced Dole's Pineapple Juice, which is known throughout the United States at the 'A fj 5 Soda Fountains and in the Grocery Stores. i .Y1 m•Imix.,404.4,,mt • tqmtsupso•Ap•Agwt.•J•vl,yrstmt.wtmtwvvvvsxswwvvwvsqmvsv••r•izkwgk•o" t., • Immusik,.. N YA c 1 it driAl r• 14 t ( 1 r • 1 I •t • WAV • t `fiYe' ••.1411t•( • • •Irti
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The Oahu Railway skirts the shores of Oahu, every moment the scene changes, here we have a typical fisherman's wife in Havvaii. She will wade out on the reef and gather edible. limn (seaweed), while her husband climbs the coconut trees behind her for drink, or spears the squid along the coral reefs for food. ,
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