JULY 2017 JULY Survive the day, enjoy the night When hot summer days hit, Zagreb cools off at lakes, pools and century–old parks. But in July, the city also beams at night. There are the Upper Town courtyards that open only up for a few days, the spectacular Medvedgrad castle stage up at the Medvedgrad fortress, the rooftop shows at MSU, the gigs at Strossmartre, the Opatovina open–air plays or people–watching at the café terraces of Tkalča. Find all this in July’s copy of Zagreb For You, or better yet, explore on your own. INSTAGRAM* LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY Photo: @ZagreSunseSessions Photo: * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr TALKABOUT WHY THE RED AND NOT FIRST INNOVATIVE locals BLUE COAT OF ARMS? sent over 200 city Zagreb's oldest parish church, poised between the MINUTE design proposals via government and parliament, has kept little of its TREAT YOUR INNER pilot–project Zagreb 13th-century Romanesque appeal. Architect CHILD TO SOME FUN – an Innovative City. Herman Bollé restored it after the 1880 earthquake, To set a fun and creative adding its vibrant rooftop with a red crest of Best ideas include Zagreb because the blue coat of arms was defined tone to your Zagreb visit, Dolac evening book only in 1896. A few decades later Jozo Klajković head straight to the hip fair and noiseless and Ljubo Babić painted its interior. Altars, Art Park. Enter through buses hooked to e– crucifixes and brass sculptures are all works of Tomićeva street or the charges at bus de- Croatia's genius sculptor, Ivan Meštrović. cool Grič Tunnel and join pots. @zagreb.hr one of many art work- FACADES in Zagreb, shops. Why not try your of about 5000 build- hand at graffiti in this ings, are to be re- jazzy city garden where vamped. Over 3000 a cold drink is never far co–owners agreed on away? If workshops are renovation. The tem- too much, just savor the po is break–necking: artwork around you. 200 facades a week, starting with 25 in Ilica. #nograffiti GRAFFITI on Hen- WORD drix bridge, just painted over and illu- * COAT OF ARMS OF TRIUNE * ZAGREB'S CREST on St Žeđ minated by lamps on KINGDOM OF CROATIA, Sla- Mark's was done 15 years the Railway bridge, vonia and Dalmatia (1869–1918) before the city got its definite may return soon, via is made up of a red–white symbol – a blue shield with a (Zh-edge) checkerboard for Croatia, three three–tower city on a green Thirst, Durst, Soif, Sed, public competition. crowned lions for Dalmatia and hill, overlooked by silver moon The City put out a red–white Slavonian crest with a and six–point golden star. Sete, Sede call to street artists pine marten. to come up with a 1256 1359 1499 1725 1882 のどの渇き, permanent graffiti. first first Gradec steeple and church #graffiti mention organs crest rooftop renovation 갈증, 口渴 ZAGREB WHAT SUPERHEROES MONOVIEW WHERE WHEN FANTASTIC FILMS UNDER STARRY SKIES Lovers of SF, fantasy and horror movies get Zagreb pumped up a special treat during Zagreb’s biggest hero in the past Fantastic Zagreb Film 100 years is actually a heroine. Her Ivan Brnčić, founder of Zakaj Volim Zagreb, author Festival, on through July official name is Viktorija and she’s of Purger Dictionary 9. Classics and new titles been quenching Zagreb’s thirst are screened under starry since the beginning of the last Zagreb’s talk: the skies at the mystical century. Decades later, this plain old Tuškanac summer stage water pump got a new name: Iron German špreha becomes set deep inside a forest. Martin, then Francek. Up until a few Some movies are also years ago, it was rarely used, rusty the English spika shown at Medvedgrad and forgotten. Street artists behind Castle. More on @2017. Pimp My Pump brought it back to FACEBOOK Why was the Facebook fantastic–zagreb.com life and kept on until they restored group Zakaj volim over a hundred city spouts. Colorful, GROUP ZAKAJ Zagreb (with over 50 FEED ALL YOUR SENSES vibrant, perfect in the scorching VOLIM ZAGREB thousand members) Every Saturday (10am– heat. They’ve encouraged future founded? To promote 8pm) Zagreb Picnic projects too, like fountain repairs. ISN’T JUST A the positive aspects throws a party at Maksimir Not a bad thing to have fresh water COLLECTION OF of Zagreb, its culture, park. Head to the mead- on every corner of town. Cheers! tradition and history. ow by the second lake #PimpMyPump WONDERFUL Besides beautiful pho- and join the crowds for a PHOTOS BUT A tos, you can learn a lot chow. DJ–spun music, fun about Zagreb there. games and a free library PLACE WHERE Why do you love Za- of books are there to YOU CAN LEARN greb? For its curiosities, complement dining alfres- lifestyle and customs. co. You can even show up ABOUT THE CITY But also, of course, without food and get your because I was born, picnic basket on the ANJA MUTIĆ educated and found love spot @park–maksimir.hr here. Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington Zagreb’s locals love THE SOUNDS OF Post. Follow her at @everthenomad their city…. for many reasons: some for its WORLD MUSIC history, some its architecture, some for its The 51st edition of the In- people. ternational Folklore Festi- And tourists love it most for… its stories, val (July 19–23) brings the A win legends and all the interesting options it best world music to the offers during their stay. center of Zagreb. Head to Why did you publish the Purger dictio- Jelačić square and Gra- over NYC nary? So we don’t forget the words that dec, the two main venues, were once used but are heard less and less to catch live music perfor- write this from Manhattan, today. As I like to say, šprehati turned into mances, church singing, Ia swish little café with a long spikati; German words got replaced by the workshops and exhibi- bench where a bunch of people English ones. Today people rarely say fruš- tions. This year’s program sit staring at their laptop screens, tik for breakfast, or frtalj for a quarter. features cultural heritage co–working. I’ve been back in Purger words that everyone knows… of Croatia’s Banovina and New York for four days and find well, the first thing that comes to mind is Pounje regions. @msf.hr myself comparing it to Zagreb, the very word purger. Everyone in Zagreb ceaselessly. Though wildly differ- knows that one. It comes from the word ent in size, style and signature, burger, which meant citizen. Bok for hello the two cities are both mine, as is a word you won’t hear anywhere else. much as cities can be. One thing is Many people use gablec instead of lunch.. certain: they both have my heart. Zagrebački kutak is the name of your walk the streets of Brooklyn web. What’s your corner in Zagreb? Iand think how clean and There are many: I love Tuškanac, I enjoy spotless Zagreb is. As I doze off its peaceful nature in the midst of the city, at night, listening to the urban and other urban oases such as Bundek, jungle of New York City outside Jarun and Maksimir. OUT OF THE BOX BEATS my apartment, I think of Zagreb’s Live music in parks is silence. It feels like a retreat HIDDEN ZAGREB a winning combo but compared to NYC, its decibel Crossover Festival Zagreb scale radically lower, its pace so (July 26–30) takes it to slow and low–key. I remember Welcome to Zagreb’s a new level. Hit Ribnjak the floral scents of Zagreb, its riviera where five park to take your beat out enchanting smells. Can’t give New beaches fly the Blue Flag of the box. Music styles York that compliment, especially are mixed and merged on hot steamy days when the ven with no sea, Zagreb beaches outrank and mainstream and city’s juices boil over. Emany popular coastal destinations. The underground bands take adore New York, have no doubt. swimming season kicks off June 1 but prepa- turns on the stage. Expect IBut Zagreb wins me over these rations to justify the Blue Flag begin much energetic performers days, on so many fronts. It has earlier. Head to Lake Jarun to check out the from Colombia, Cuba, all I need – quality of life, an easy beaches for yourself. The water quality is Israel, Spain, Serbia and, rhythm, a sense of peace... And yet superb, the environment is clean and taken of course, Croatia. Stay it’s booming, going through its “it” care of and safety is provided by newly tuned @facebook.com/ moment. Just the right time to trained guards. Go early – Zagreb beaches zgcrossover pick Zagreb over New York City. attract up to 10,000 swimmers daily. NEW Zagreb speakeasies where dull is the only thing unlawful an something and it will find a way to thrive. Which is what Bhappened in the 1920s and 30s America when Prohibition spawned speakeasy bars. Now alcohol flows freely but the thrill of once illicit drinking is being revived in today’s speakeasies. Zagreb is on trend, too. Lovers of dark retro ambience and a discerning tipple, prepare for a blast in four fabulous speakeasies across the city.