JULY 2017 Survive the day, enjoy the night When hot summer days hit, cools off at lakes, pools and century–old parks. But in July, the city also beams at night. There are the Upper Town courtyards that open only up for a few days, the spectacular castle stage up at the Medvedgrad fortress, the rooftop shows at MSU, the gigs at Strossmartre, the Opatovina open–air plays or people–watching at the café terraces of Tkalča. Find all this in July’s copy of Zagreb For You, or better yet, explore on your own. INSTAGRAM*

LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY Photo: @ZagreSunseSessions

* Zagreb was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr TALKABOUT WHY THE RED AND NOT FIRST INNOVATIVE locals BLUE COAT OF ARMS? sent over 200 city Zagreb's oldest parish church, poised between the MINUTE design proposals via government and parliament, has kept little of its TREAT YOUR INNER pilot–project Zagreb 13th-century Romanesque appeal. Architect CHILD TO SOME FUN – an Innovative City. Herman Bollé restored it after the 1880 earthquake, To set a fun and creative adding its vibrant rooftop with a red crest of Best ideas include Zagreb because the blue coat of arms was defined tone to your Zagreb visit, Dolac evening book only in 1896. A few decades later Jozo Klajković head straight to the hip fair and noiseless and Ljubo Babić painted its interior. Altars, Art Park. Enter through buses hooked to e– crucifixes and brass sculptures are all works of Tomićeva street or the charges at bus de- Croatia's genius sculptor, Ivan Meštrović. cool Grič Tunnel and join pots. @zagreb.hr one of many art work- FACADES in Zagreb, shops. Why not try your of about 5000 build- hand at graffiti in this ings, are to be re- jazzy city garden where vamped. Over 3000 a cold drink is never far co–owners agreed on away? If workshops are renovation. The tem- too much, just savor the po is break–necking: artwork around you. 200 facades a week, starting with 25 in . #nograffiti GRAFFITI on Hen- WORD drix bridge, just painted over and illu- * COAT OF ARMS OF TRIUNE * ZAGREB'S CREST on St Žeđ minated by lamps on KINGDOM OF CROATIA, Sla- Mark's was done 15 years the Railway bridge, vonia and Dalmatia (1869–1918) before the city got its definite may return soon, via is made up of a red–white symbol – a blue shield with a (Zh-edge) checkerboard for Croatia, three three–tower city on a green Thirst, Durst, Soif, Sed, public competition. crowned lions for Dalmatia and hill, overlooked by silver moon The City put out a red–white Slavonian crest with a and six–point golden star. Sete, Sede call to street artists pine marten. to come up with a 1256 1359 1499 1725 1882 のどの渇き, permanent graffiti. first first Gradec steeple and church #graffiti mention organs crest rooftop renovation 갈증, 口渴 ZAGREB WHAT SUPERHEROES MONOVIEW WHERE WHEN FANTASTIC FILMS UNDER STARRY SKIES Lovers of SF, fantasy and horror movies get Zagreb pumped up a special treat during Zagreb’s biggest hero in the past Fantastic 100 years is actually a heroine. Her Ivan Brnčić, founder of Zakaj Volim Zagreb, author Festival, on through July official name is Viktorija and she’s of Purger Dictionary 9. Classics and new titles been quenching Zagreb’s thirst are screened under starry since the beginning of the last Zagreb’s talk: the skies at the mystical century. Decades later, this plain old Tuškanac summer stage water pump got a new name: Iron German špreha becomes set deep inside a forest. Martin, then Francek. Up until a few Some movies are also years ago, it was rarely used, rusty the English spika shown at Medvedgrad and forgotten. Street artists behind Castle. More on @2017. Pimp My Pump brought it back to FACEBOOK Why was the Facebook fantastic–zagreb.com life and kept on until they restored group Zakaj volim over a hundred city spouts. Colorful, GROUP ZAKAJ Zagreb (with over 50 FEED ALL YOUR SENSES vibrant, perfect in the scorching VOLIM ZAGREB thousand members) Every Saturday (10am– heat. They’ve encouraged future founded? To promote 8pm) Zagreb Picnic projects too, like fountain repairs. ISN’T JUST A the positive aspects throws a party at Not a bad thing to have fresh water COLLECTION OF of Zagreb, its culture, park. Head to the mead- on every corner of town. Cheers! tradition and history. ow by the second lake #PimpMyPump WONDERFUL Besides beautiful pho- and join the crowds for a PHOTOS BUT A tos, you can learn a lot chow. DJ–spun music, fun about Zagreb there. games and a free library PLACE WHERE Why do you love Za- of books are there to YOU CAN LEARN greb? For its curiosities, complement dining alfres- lifestyle and customs. co. You can even show up ABOUT THE CITY But also, of course, without food and get your because I was born, picnic basket on the ANJA MUTIĆ educated and found love spot @park–maksimir.hr here. Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington Zagreb’s locals love THE SOUNDS OF Post. Follow her at @everthenomad their city…. for many reasons: some for its WORLD MUSIC history, some its architecture, some for its The 51st edition of the In- people. ternational Folklore Festi- And tourists love it most for… its stories, val (July 19–23) brings the A win legends and all the interesting options it best world music to the offers during their stay. center of Zagreb. Head to Why did you publish the Purger dictio- Jelačić square and Gra- over NYC nary? So we don’t forget the words that dec, the two main venues, were once used but are heard less and less to catch live music perfor- write this from Manhattan, today. As I like to say, šprehati turned into mances, church singing, Ia swish little café with a long spikati; German words got replaced by the workshops and exhibi- bench where a bunch of people English ones. Today people rarely say fruš- tions. This year’s program sit staring at their laptop screens, tik for breakfast, or frtalj for a quarter. features cultural heritage co–working. I’ve been back in Purger words that everyone knows… of Croatia’s Banovina and New York for four days and find well, the first thing that comes to mind is Pounje regions. @msf.hr myself comparing it to Zagreb, the very word purger. Everyone in Zagreb ceaselessly. Though wildly differ- knows that one. It comes from the word ent in size, style and signature, burger, which meant citizen. Bok for hello the two cities are both mine, as is a word you won’t hear anywhere else. much as cities can be. One thing is Many people use gablec instead of lunch.. certain: they both have my heart. Zagrebački kutak is the name of your walk the streets of Brooklyn web. What’s your corner in Zagreb? Iand think how clean and There are many: I love Tuškanac, I enjoy spotless Zagreb is. As I doze off its peaceful nature in the midst of the city, at night, listening to the urban and other urban oases such as Bundek, jungle of New York City outside and Maksimir. OUT OF THE BOX BEATS my apartment, I think of Zagreb’s Live music in parks is silence. It feels like a retreat HIDDEN ZAGREB a winning combo but compared to NYC, its decibel Crossover Festival Zagreb scale radically lower, its pace so (July 26–30) takes it to slow and low–key. I remember Welcome to Zagreb’s a new level. Hit Ribnjak the floral scents of Zagreb, its riviera where five park to take your beat out enchanting smells. Can’t give New beaches fly the Blue Flag of the box. Music styles York that compliment, especially are mixed and merged on hot steamy days when the ven with no sea, Zagreb beaches outrank and mainstream and city’s juices boil over. Emany popular coastal destinations. The underground bands take adore New York, have no doubt. season kicks off June 1 but prepa- turns on the stage. Expect IBut Zagreb wins me over these rations to justify the Blue Flag begin much energetic performers days, on so many fronts. It has earlier. Head to Lake Jarun to check out the from Colombia, Cuba, all I need – quality of life, an easy beaches for yourself. The water quality is Israel, Spain, Serbia and, rhythm, a sense of peace... And yet superb, the environment is clean and taken of course, Croatia. Stay it’s booming, going through its “it” care of and safety is provided by newly tuned @facebook.com/ moment. Just the right time to trained guards. Go early – Zagreb beaches zgcrossover pick Zagreb over New York City. attract up to 10,000 swimmers daily. NEW Zagreb speakeasies where dull is the only thing unlawful

an something and it will find a way to thrive. Which is what Bhappened in the 1920s and 30s America when Prohibition spawned speakeasy bars. Now alcohol flows freely but the thrill of once illicit drinking is being revived in today’s speakeasies. Zagreb is on trend, too. Lovers of dark retro ambience and a discerning tipple, prepare for a blast in four fabulous speakeasies across the city. At Joe’s Bar, mixology takes you back to the dawn of cocktail making where barman Ivan Mandrić draws his inspiration from Prohibition–time recipes. For an original speakeasy buzz, try to Swanky Monkey Garden (Ilica 50) Signature cocktail: Summer in the City B35 ( 4) Signature cocktails: B Bunny, Child in Time, French 35

Joe’s Bar (Branimirova 29) Signature cocktails: Dark ‘n’ Stormy, The Last Word, El Presidente, Hanky Panky

Šupa (try and find it) Signature cocktails: Kentucky Time, Herradura Caballo, Boulevardier

QuiZG A day in... Zagreb’s courtyards 1. When did Zagreb Hipodrom open? a) 1930 Exploring Zagreb’s cityscape is ANDREA PISAC b) 1940 like peeling off one layer after another. Global anthropologist and Zagreb writer with a c) 1950 Like discovering its tucked–away twist. Follow her at @travelhonestly.com courtyards that reveal Zagreb at its most 2. Headliners of the first real. See them for yourself July 14–23 Honestly, snatch INmusic in 2006 were: during the Courtyards Festival, when 7 Upper Town villas open their doors with a) Franz Ferdinand fab live music and foodie program. your perfect b) Flaming Lips c) Arctic Monkeys reading spot Balbi Palace (Demetrova 11). This baroque palace is home to the Old hey’ve been saying for years that the 3. What is the altitude of Church Slavonic Institute and the site Told–fashioned book had its day. I dis- Medvedgrad Castle? of the only remaining Upper Town well. agree. Just step inside London tube where a) 442 m people grab every free moment to read. Or b) 593 m where you have to fight their spread–out c) 675 m Erdödy–Drašković Palace (Opatička 29). Today this is home of newspapers for space. If you’ve held on to reading in cramped spaces and during busy BONUS QUESTION the Zagreb City Archives and where How many hot days are there Croatian opera singer Sidonija Erdödy times, prepare to have a reading blast in in July? Drašković grew up here. Zagreb. a) 20 Unpack those holiday titles you brought b) 21 Frigan House (Opatička 27). The along and set off to find your favorite reading c) 22 best–preserved work in the oeuvre of spot. Zagreb’s locals rarely use parks and architect Aleksandar Brdarić, this 1840 public spaces to relax with a book. And ANSWERS corner building in Biedermeier style has with so many green spaces around, you can two street and two courtyard wings, and 1c, Zagreb Hipodrom was a gorgeous wrought–iron balcony. go crazy. Snatch a bench in the deliciously completed in 1950, according to secluded Rokov Perivoj or the Nazor park Parisian Longchamp. The gallop where you’ll cross paths only with an occa- race lawn course is 2400 m long. sional dog owner. Or park yourself on Maksi- 2a, Scottish band Franz Ferdinand mir’s inviting lawns where you can pair your played at the first InMusic at book with a picnic. Dig out those summer Šalata in 2006, and twice at Jarun. 3b, Medvedgrad Castle sits atop reads you’ve packed for the Croatian coast. Mali Plazur hill, 593 m above sea The beach is right here. Hit Zrinjevac July 1–9 to join the fab Sea of Books event. Pick a level. 's peak is Sljeme Croatian Institute of History at 1033 m. (Opatička 10). Oozing with history deck chair, dip your feet into sand and drift Bonus B, on average, July counts and culture, this opulent palace to wherever your book takes you. the highest number of hot days was where the famous movie The above 25C, though August breaks Glembays was shot. Tip: Catch up with online reading in any records in heat but fewer days. café where wi–fi is fast and free. locate Šupa, a hush–hush flam- boyant bar in an underground warehouse. You’ll need a con- COOL nection to get in, but it will all be worth it once you try Dominik TURE Bečvardi’s superb cocktails. If you want to pair your liquor SUMMER AT MSU with a slap–up meal, head to B35 kicks off again this restaurant and speakeasy bar July at the Museum where Roman Rabik uses herbs of Contemporary Art. from a local garden to concoct a Don’t miss rooftop gigs perfect tipple. by Detour on Saturday, Finally, add some color to the July 8 and Vatra on seedy thrills in Swanky Monkey July 15. Seek more Garden, Zagreb’s only tiki bar events and exhibits set in a secluded courtyard of a online. @msu.hr former cleaning factory. TESLA SHOWS UP ON STAGE when Gavella theater marks Nikola Tesla Day. Catch the Tesla Anonimus show by Filip Šovagović. Marko Petrić plays Tesla, alongside Edison, Einstein, even Hitler. @gavella.hr

RYAN ADAMS performs in Zagreb – and the entire region – for the very first time. Expect Tvornica packed on July 13, as American songwriter promotes his 16th album Prisoner. @tvornica.hr

ZGBLOG Love letters to Zagreb

Love Zagreb is a rendezvous spot for local bloggers where they MEDVEDGRAD stone share their own different takes on walls become the the city. These stories each offer most stunning summer an insider’s perspective, such as stage for three days. the truly local phrases by purgeri July 12–14, check out (real–deal Zagrebians), intel on the Bambi Molesters, hidden but hip neigborhoods Amira Medunjani and you’d never think to check out Kries. More info on otherwise and a cool vlog by our Medvedgrad very own editor Andrea Pisac. @pp–medvednica.hr @lovezagreb.hr HISTRION ACTING COMPANY traditionally puts on comedy shows at Opatovina until September. Watch Marija Jurić Zagorka’s Kći Lotrščaka, about the legend of how Zagreb came to be. @histrion.hr

MORE INFO Falling in love with Zagreb can happen to everyone. Share your love story with Zagreb with the hashtag #LoveZagreb YELLOW PAGE Šalata Pools Ban Jelačić Fountains Square Svetice Manduševac

Dom sportova Five fountains at the National and University Library

Sava Lake Bundek Lake Jarun Utrine

A day at the pool for 10KN, deck chair and parasol for free Not at the seaside or don’t feel NEXTBIKE PRICES like Jarun or Bundek beaches? • Weekdays kids and Then pick between five Zagreb seniors 5KN swimming complexes for as little • Weekdays adults 10KN as 10KN a day. at Sava • Weekends adults 15KN is top choice, with outdoor and • Family day pass 30KN indoor olympic–size pools and a • Monthly adult pass 150KN range of activities in the sports park. Deck chairs and parasols WATER TEMPERATURE come free of charge. The latest 26° C large pools is the Svetice complex, with 30° C kids pools three pools plus a gym and sauna. Utrina in has a spa next to the jumping and TIPS&TRICKS non–swimmers pool. Šalata’s olympic pool boasts a fab view ZAGREB TAXI HELP across Zagreb and the winter pool at welcomes +385 1 1777 112 during heat, too. Lured to have EXCHANGE RATES, a dip in a city fountain? Resist: (BUY RATE, JULY 1 2017) splattering is off limits. € 1 7.43; $ 1 6.65; JPY 100 5.98 @sportskiobjekt.hr GET TIED UP Croatia is the homeland of the tie (cravat). Buy this original Meet the fairies Croatian product in Croata salons, located at Kaptol 13 and Ilica 5 and witches of (inside the Oktogon passage- N Ogulin way). A short and easy BOTANICAL train ride from GARDEN FOR FREE Zagreb, the 16th– 60 min is free century town of from Zagreb and open every day from mor- ning to dusk – a policy in opera- Ogulin is a world tion since its opening in 1891. The to itself. Nestled at Garden was the city’s gift to the the foot of the allegedly witch– provided it possessed Klek mountain, Ogulin kept free entrance. is the birthplace of Ivana Brlić TIPS FOR Mažuranić, Croatia’s foremost fairy- STREET MUSICIANS tale writer. To If the music moves you, a 5KN coin (0.66 euro), the get properly one with the brown bear, will do enchanted, the trick. visit Ivana’s House of Fairy THE MOST USEFUL CARD Tales or track down With Zagreb Card tourists get free transport and Cesarovac, a spring six attractions, with fairy water plus ticket disco- right on the main unts for more than square. 80 locations. Daily card is 98 KN, a three–day card Tip: Ogulin is the cradle of Cro- is 135 KN. A ride atia’s mountain climbing; learn on the funicular is about its fascinating history in the included. town’s museum. @zagrebcard.com

Don't waste paper. Use it or. . . . . N WHERE THE STREETS HAVE NAMES AND PURPOSE LAST Learning the names of Zagreb's MINUTE main streets is not enough to find your way around. But when you CAPTURE THE GREEN connect the map with the city's cultural geography, you're set in the right HEART OF ZAGREB OPATOVINA No matter how short your direction. Here, each street has its own is the craft beer haven. quirky character and every artery pumps Do a crawl of Potepuh, visit to Zagreb, the city a different energy. Whether it’s for Tolkien's House and will dazzle you with its coffee, beer, shopping or fun all–around, Craftroom where more verdant spaces. Before these five hubs promise to quench than 150 brews call to be you leave, hang out in your thirst. sampled. Discover the local recipes. Maksimir, the green heart of Zagreb and the old- est landscaped park in southeast Europe. Catch RADIĆEVA makes shopping for souvenirs a breeze. Just walk TKALČA promises a promenade concert on up and down and peep into lively fun from morning to Sunday mornings or join shops to find jewelry, art, artisan midnight. It teems the locals for a fab picnic, food, even hand-harvested salt. with so many cafés, restaurants, bars and an all–day affair that’s on art galleries that you’ll every Saturday. quickly get spoilt for ILICA is one of Zagreb’s choice. Come without longest streets and best a plan. known for artisan boutiques and craft shops. You only need 4am to walk the length of one tram BOGOVIĆEVA is the stage for špica, a stop to get your fix of peak time for having coffee with friends ZRĆE WAS BORN window-shopping. as well as for prancing around in your best outfit and watching the world go by. AT ZAGREB’S SEA Photo: licegrada.hr A synonym for unbeat- able clubbing over the past quarter century, Aquarius still operates every night at Jarun’s Small Lake. This per- fect daytime lounge bar turns into one fun house party when 10pm hits. The namesake club is the pioneer of Croatia’s Ibiza, Zrće beach on Pag island, only a few hour’s drive from Zagreb. Your choice: The Zagreb sea or the Adriatic! @aquarius.hr

Light’s out? Keep calm. Did you know that Zagreb has precisely 444 traffic inter- sections and that every day about six traffic lights break down? Keep calm; the damage is rarely ever seen. Emergency inter- ventions jump to the res- cue 24/7. Can you guess where they go out most? You got it, at the biggest traffic junc- Capture the Dolac masterpiece tions – crossroads of veryone is posting selfies with the huge mural across the pink building Vukovarska, Savska Eat Dolac. So hurry to snap your own photo of Zagreb’s biggest new and Držićeva attraction: a portrait motive by Croatia’s famed painter Vlaho Bukovac. streets. It’s the idea of French artist Julien de Casabianca’s to popularize museum works in the streets. In–pavement detectors recognize cars TASTE OF ZAGREB fit every taste; it’s up watering pairing of and regulate the to you to match them Medvedgrad’s witbier length of green powered by with different dishes. Summer in Zagreb and lights at 135 Taste of Croatia Pair Zmajska Brewery’s deep–fried squid rings intersections Hoppy Wheat with mar- or seafood pasta. Or Summer inated chicken wings savor Garden Brewery’s Published by: and colorful salads. Saison with mussels 30 stupnjeva beer joy Pulfer or Nova na buzaru. Round it Editors: Runda Pale Ale all up with a kooky Anja Mutić, n the sea of Croatian are a perfect com- dessert – aromatic Andrea Pisac Icraft beers, summer edi- bo with burgers beer ice cream from Contact: tions steal the spotlight. and BBQ. Hoppy Orijent patisserie. [email protected] To quench sizzling heat, Huncut lager Calories per 330 ml of In partnership with go for light and refreshing from Pivionica is craft beer = 110–170 Zagreb Tourist Board fruit or citrus beers. delish with risotto. Price per 330 ml of craft Print: Stega tisak d.o.o. Zagreb’s craft breweries Try the mouth- beer = 22–30KN www.zagreb4you.com