magazine summer 2011 magazine summer 2011 Wales 17/05/2011 11:20 05 , 06 Cadair Idris, Gwynedd l Distance 20km/12½ miles l time 6hrs l type Coast l Distance 19½km/12 miles l time 7½-8hrs l type valley and mountain

NavigatioN FitNess NavigatioN FitNess 1 level 1 2/3 level 2/3 3/4 level 3/4 4 level 4

plan your walk plan your walk

irish sea Porthmadog stRUMBLe Penrhyndeudraeth HeaD sNoWDoNia Llanwnda NatioNaL PaRk l l l Dolgellau trefasser goodwick l Barmouth

PeMBRokesHiRe CaDaiR iDRis Llanbrynmair l

l Castle aberdyfi Machynlleth Morris

Where: strumble Head Where: Circular walk from to via Pwll Deri Llanfihangel-y-pennant to and . summit of Cadair idris and P FIoNa barltro PhotograPhy: Start: strumble Head car alaMy PhotograPhy: along western escarpment. park/bus stop (sM895412). This area’s excellent coastal bus remote area, and no refreshments Start/end: Car park at Cadair Idris may rank as only the 15, walked barefoot from end: trefin (sM839325). services – with user-friendly are available en route. Llanfihangel-y-pennant nineteenth highest mountain in Llanfihangel-y-pennant to Bala terrain: Well-signed names such as Strumble Shuttle (sH672088). Wales, but it’s one of the most (some 40km/25 miles) to procure National trail coastal path and Poppit Rocket – cover the 1. START in summer, the bus will terrain: gravel track, popular and certainly the number from the Reverend thomas along rugged clifftop. whole of the Pembrokeshire Coast drop you off at strumble Head one favourite in southern Charles a copy of the Welsh MapS: os explorer oL35; grassy bridleway, ascents National Park coastline, enabling itself (in winter, you’ll need to on stony path, and a Snowdonia. It’s most commonly Bible. this act led to the Landranger 157. walkers to enjoy linear routes by walk from the road junction ascended by one of two routes: formation of the British and GettinG there: Nearest rail straightforward ridge walk catching a bus both out and back. about 2km/1¼ miles away – an over grassy moorland. the Minffordd or Pony Path. Yet Foreign Bible society. inside the station at Fishguard Harbour. There are daily buses in the easy walk along a quiet country its highest point, Penygadair, is church, too, is an interesting MapS: os explorer oL23; Run by Richards Brothers, summer months to the start of lane). strumble Head is renowned just one top along a splendid three-dimensional cloth map of Landranger 124. the strumble shuttle (404) this walk at Strumble Head – as a spot for watching sea birds, seven-mile escarpment, the the Dysynni valley. Head north runs between Fishguard and in winter they run only three migrant birds and marine life GettinG there: the western half of which is ignored along the road and across the st David’s, via strumble Head days a week, but it’s just a few – a former second World War nearest bus stop is at by most. This route, which starts afon Cadair. Just over the bridge and trefin (in winter, the miles from Goodwick/Fishguard, lookout provides shelter for abergynolwyn on the from the unspoilt and delectable is a monument to Mary Jones, bus stops at strumble Head so you could get a taxi if you wildlife-watchers. the lighthouse B4405 – bus number 30, Dysynni valley, mostly avoids the who lived in the now-ruined junction, c.2km/1¼ miles needed to. Your fare will be well is situated on the Ynys Meicel tywyn-abergynolwyn- crowds and combines an ascent cottage here. stay on the road, from strumble Head). the worth it – the coastal scenery (st Michael’s island), separated Minffordd-Dolgellau of Cadair Idris by a longer but which runs alongside the afon ✆ company also runs bus 413 around here is superb, especially from the mainland by a narrow ( 0871 200 2233, www. quieter approach with a super Cadair, to its end, continuing from Fishguard to st David’s the half-dozen or so miles gap that is crossed by a traveline.info). the historic, walk along this little-trodden on the broad gravel track. via trefin (✆ 01239 613756, south of Strumble Head to Aber footbridge. Built in 1908, the narrow-gauge talyllyn ridge. On a clear day, the views this climbs steadily uphill www.richardsbros.co.uk). Mawr. Nowhere else along the lighthouse is now unmanned Railway runs between are some of the very finest in to Hafotty gwastadfryn. eatinG & drinkinG: the will and automated – keep an eye tywyn to Nant gwernol, southern Snowdonia. ship inn, trefin (✆ 01348 you find a wilder, more dramatic out for seals here. Navigation with abergynolwyn and 2. Continue north on the track 831445); the Mill Café, stretch of coastline than this. for this walk is very simple: Nant gwernol stations 1. START Before setting off on (ignoring one to your L) and trefin (✆ 01348 831650). With precipitous cliffs and facing strumble Head, turn L and nearest to the start the walk, it’s worth having a cross a stream. soon after you

✆ the sloop inn (✆ 01348 magnificent views, it should keep the sea on your R for the ( 01654 710472, look in the little church. it houses leave this broad track at a gate ▲

▼ 831449) and the shed certainly be saved for a clear rest of the way. it’s just under www.talyllyn.co.uk). an exhibition about Mary Jones, and bear R along a signed

day. Bear in mind this is quite a a local girl who, in 1800, aged ▼ ▼ bridleway path. it leads you up 4½km/2¾ miles to Pwll Deri, over 53-54 WALES ROUTEMASTER.REV1.indd 1 53-54 WALESROUTEMASTER.REV1.indd 2 Ordnance Surveymapping©Crowncopyright.AM34/08 Ordnance Surveymapping©Crowncopyright.AM34/08

continued... continued... 1 START eating & drinking: In (✆ 01348 831518), . Map not to scale. Abergynolwyn: The Railway Sleeping: The Old School Map not to scale. Representation of Inn (✆ 01654 782279) and 3 Hostel & B&B, Trefin Representation of OS Landranger MAP 124 OS Explorer MAP OL35 Caffi’r Ceunant 1:50,000 (✆ 01348 831800, www. 1:25,000 ✆ www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk theoldschoolhostel.co.uk); Café ( 01654 782372). www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk There are other eateries Caerhys Organic Farm B&B, in Tywyn. 2 Berea (✆ 01348 831244, Sleeping: Maes y Wennol www.organic-farm-holidays. 2 self-catering, near 4 co.uk); Pwll Deri Youth Llanfihangel-y-pennant Hostel (✆ 0845 371 9536). (✆ 01654 782674, www. Contact the TIC below for caderidrisholiday.co.uk); more options. Riverside House B&B, ViSitor information: Abergynolwyn (✆ 01654 Fishguard TIC (✆ 01437 782235). Other guest houses 776636, www. and B&Bs in Tywyn. visitpembrokeshire.co.uk). guidebookS: ViSitor information: The Pembrokeshire Coastal Barmouth TIC (✆ 01341 5 Path 280787); Dolgellau TIC 1 by Dennis Kelsall (✆ 01341 422888); or visit START (£12.95, Cicerone, ISBN www.visitmidwales.co.uk. FINISH 9781852843786); Pembrokeshire Coast Path guidebookS: Hillwalking in National Trail Guides by 3 Wales, Vol 1 by Peter Brian John (£12.99, Aurum Hermon (£12, Cicerone, ISBN Press, ISBN 9781845135638); 9781852844677); Local Walks Pembrokeshire Coast Around Tywyn by Des Path by Jim Manthorpe 4 Marshall (£4.95, Kittiwake, Tyrrau Mawr, as it’s also known the Dysynni Valley. There are (£9.99, Trailblazer, ISBN ISBN 9781902302645); – is the first top you come to on superb views on the descent. 9781905864270). Snowdonia, Anglesey & the the ridge. There’s an excellent (NB Keep to the signed bridleway local ramblerS group: Ll n Peninsula Pathfinder ŷ little grassy ‘viewing platform’ path, ignoring the farmers’ tracks Pembrokeshire Ramblers FINISH Guide by Brian Conduit on the other side of the fence. which sometimes coincide.) (✆ 01437 779787, www. (£10.95, Jarrold, ISBN The seaward view takes in pembrokeshireramblers. 9780711705500). the Mawddach estuary, with 5. Just beyond the farm of org.uk). local ramblerS group: Barmouth, its bridge and the Bodilan Fach, turn L on a path Meirionnydd Ramblers long arm of the Llynˆ Peninsula in through fields around the foot (✆ 01341 247693, www. the distance. Below, embedded of the hill, then R across a bridge wild, rocky terrain with bracken, Path follows the road for a short Just beyond Abercastle, and ramblers.co.uk/groups). like jewels, are the Cregennan and along a farm lane back to heather and coarse grass. distance, passing a memorial a short diversion from the Lakes. Continue along the ridge the start. to the poet Dewi Emrys, before Coast Path, is cromlech Carreg to the end of Craig-y-llyn. You Route devised by Fiona Barltrop 2. Pwll Deri Youth Hostel, turning off R to continue on Samson: a superb Neolithic burial to the col (Rhiw Gwredydd) on lose the fence for a short while situated directly above the cliffs, out to the Penbwchdy headland. chamber worth making the the main escarpment, where you as the distinct path descends to a must take the prize for the most South of here you begin to lose effort to see. Another hour or so meet the Pony Path that goes on col and carries on along the edge impressive location for a hostel height as the cliffs get lower. of walking brings you to Aber up to the top of Cadair Idris of the escarpment bearing NW in Wales, if not the whole Draw; Trefin is just up the road. (Penygadair). towards the plantation on Braich country. Whether you’re sitting 3. The shingle beach at Alternatively, you could turn off Ddu, where you pick up a fence outside or in, the views are truly is just over the the Coast Path from the cliffs 3. Turn R here and follow the again on your L. Once past the spectacular. This is another place halfway point. Though the cliffs at Trwyn Llwyd before reaching well-used stony path up to trees the path bears L along the to look out for seals. If you’ve from now on are not as high and Aber Draw. Trefin is served by the summit of Penygadair top of Craig Cwm-llwyd, the time and energy it’s worth exhilarating as before, the both the Strumble Shuttle and (893m/2930ft), where there’s a descending to meet a broad making a short detour to climb scenery is still wonderful. a regular, all-year-round bus trig point and shelter. Return the track. to the summit of Garn Fawr service, so is a good place same way – about a two-hour (which overlooks Pwll Deri), 4. Abercastle is a picturesque to finish. round trip. Back at the col keep 4. Turn L and take the second an impressive Iron Age hillfort village with a harbour once used Route devised by Fiona Barltrop ahead and follow the fence line footpath on the L, which with more superb views on offer. for trading; there’s a lime kiln

16/05/2011 10:36 along the crest, keeping the becomes a bridleway leading you There’s a path to the top on the to the south of the harbour and fence on your R. Craig-las – or down Mynydd Pen-rhiw back to other side of the road. The Coast a ruined granary to the north.