Alpine Skills International
Learn To Follow Multi-Pitch Instructor Lesson Plan Guidelines
1 Day
2:1 Student/Instructor Ratio Site: School Rock, Kindergarten Cracks to top or similar
Personal Introductions Names, related experience, goals
Personal gear Climbing shoes Harness, locking carabiner Climbing helmet Nut cleaning tool on carabiner Chalk bag Gear sling (optional) Small climbing pack, water bottle, high energy food
Introduction Discuss Goals and Objectives Schedule for the day Course content Instill confidence Principles of LNT Review emergency plan
Lesson 1 Gear familiarization Stoppers, camming units Removal Racking in order Slings, quick draws Double runners, cordalettes Tie-in knots Figure 8 on-a-bite Clove hitch Guide books, topos, internet local knowledge for route information
Lesson 2 Belaying the leader Anchored vs. unanchored ground belay Double check systems Belay commands Always providing just enough slack Slack at clips – speed when necessary Anticipating clips and leader’s movement Rope in after overhead pro – then slack
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Lesson 3 Following, cleaning, racking Belay commands Removal of protection Learn to identify mechanical resistance to aid removal Nut tool if necessary Carabiner taps to nut tool
Lesson 4 Arriving at stance Identify master point with leader Place locking carabiner with matching gate orientation Tie in with clove hitch – adjust knot Avoid daisy chain Transfer gear to leader Establish new belay for leader
Lesson 5 Descending techniques Route finding, descent options Multi-pitch rappel Double runner clip sling at anchor Girth hitch to two points of harness, overhand knot 1/3 up sling, clip rappel device around knot into two points of the sling. Then, clip end into belay loop while rappelling with locking carabiner. First with self belay Second with fireman’s belay Clip-sling to new anchor “off rappel” when free and clear Rappel exercise can be done on slabs climber’s left of Kindergarten Cracks
Course close Questions, answers, recommend follow-up programs
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