WANDERLUST / Gujarat

Tales of an Ancient

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Home to a fourth-century fort, grand Indo-Islamic structures and elaborately carved mausoleums, Junagadh, in Gujarat's Saurashtra region, is a hidden gem waiting to be explored.

WORDS Edwina D’souza

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ndia is a treasure trove of display is a fine collection of arts surprises with stories in and artefacts that belonged to the every nook and corner. I Nawabs of Junagadh. Amongst discovered some of these the arms, artillery, fabrics and Take a Detour whenI I took a detour to Junagadh furniture, is an outstanding wall on my way to the Gir National painting of Muhammad Mahabat As a side trip, head to the Park, which is home to the Asiatic Khan III with his dogs wearing Jambur village in the Talala taluka near Gir, on the outskirts lions and draws a large number of jewelled collars. The Nawab was of Junagadh. The village is 02 tourists to the Saurashtra belt. famed for his extravagant lifestyle home to the Siddi tribe who 20 and enduring love for animals, are of Bantu origin, believed to An Eventful Past especially dogs. It is said he have originated from southeast Africa. It is theorised that the Walking around Junagadh is a crossed over to Pakistan with his Nawab of Junagadh had history lesson in disguise. The dogs in tow! brought the Siddis of Africa to ancient fortified city was ruled Gujarat as labourers. by several dynasties including Magnificent Mausoleums the Maurya, Greek, Gupta and I visit the Mahabat Maqbara next, Chudasama. In the latter half of which is the mausoleum of Nawab the 16th century, Junagadh came Mahabat Khan II and Junagadh’s under the Mughal rule, when Mohammad Sher Khan Babi, the founder of the Babi dynasty, took over the reins of the city. Thereon, Junagadh was ruled by the Nawabs of Babi till India’s independence. Interestingly, when India was ready to gain freedom from the British, all the princely states were asked to combine and form a democratic India. The incumbent Nawab, Muhammad Mahabat Khan III, wanted to merge with Pakistan but the inhabitants opposed his decision. He abdicated the throne and left for Sindh (in Pakistan), and Junagadh joined independent India on November 9, 1947.

Regal Living The 19th-century city palace near Diwan Chowk stands to tell the tale of the city and its crowned heads. In its Durbar Hall, which has been converted into a museum, on 2

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most famous landmark. Built in An Ancient Bastion 1. The Uparkot Fort 1892, its architecture is a glorious Junagadh literally translates to ‘Old boasts of pillars, an assembly hall, water blend of Indo-Islamic and Gothic fort’ and Uparkot Fort is one of the cisterns, horseshoe- styles evident from its onion- oldest structures amongst the forts, shaped windows shaped domes, marble tracery monuments and architecture that amongst other architectural features. work on the French windows, dot the city. Believed to be built For detailed accounts marble jalis and elaborate carvings. during the reign of Chandragupta of the fort's history Sitting alongside is Bahauddin Maurya, the Uparkot Fort sits on and lore, sign up with a local tour guide. ka Maqbara, built for Wazir a plateau in the centre of the city. Image Alamy 2. The Bahaduddinbhai Hasinbhai, one We drove through narrow winding intricate detailing of the chief nobles in the court lanes from the base of the fort and silver jaali windows as visible of Nawab Mahabat Khan II. Its towards the main entrance. The on the Mahabat most striking feature is the helical serpentine roads were a strategic Makbara, with a clear staircase wrapped around each feature to slow down the enemy’s distinction between the Indo-Islamic of the four minarets. The access army, in case they invaded through and Gothic styles to this ground is free, but the the ramparts. The fort’s inhabitants used. Image Pradeep Mahabat Maqbara is explorable would thus get time to attack the Chamaria 3. The Bahauddin ka from the outside only. However, enemy from above. Maqbara is instantly it is said that the keys can be Overlooking the city are two recognisable with requested from the adjoining huge cannons named Neelam and its one-of-a-kind external staircases on Jami Masjid. Manek. These were forged in Egypt the minarets. That afternoon, we happened to and brought by the Ottomans, who Image Divyakshi Gupta be the only visitors to these three were invited to aid in defending impressive monuments standing Diu from the Portuguese invasion. on a busy street in the heart of Within the fort complex are a the city. magnificent mosque, Buddhist

67 1. The city of Junagadh is a mélange of historic structures and bustling local life, lending it a quaint charm. Image Shutterstock 2. The man-made Buddhist caves within the Uparkot Fort are a part of the Junagadh Buddhist Cave Groups, which are three separate sites of rooms carved out of stone to be used as monks' quarters. 1 Image Shutterstock caves and two baolis (stepwells). worship. Jain pilgrims consider Fort. Look through binoculars I walk into the main hall of it auspicious to climb the 10,000 mounted on a tripod stand, adjust the fort to see about 140 pillars steps to reach the 12th-century the dioptre and be ready for with weathered carvings and Neminath Temple. When Emperor stunning views of the range and inscriptions. The two baolis have Ashoka converted to Buddhism the temples. their own stories to tell. Legend after the battle of Kalinga, he From a distance, Mount Girnar has it that the Adi-Kadi Vav, that traversed the length and breadth of is said to resemble the face of descends 100 feet into the ground, the nation to spread Buddha’s word. a sleeping human. As I looked is named after two royal maids who Fourteen of his edicts that bear through the binoculars, the used to draw water from this 15th- moral codes based on the teachings gentleman who owned it provided century well. Locals tie bangles and of the Buddha, are scattered across a rushed commentary, “Can you cloth to a nearby tree in memory the Indian subcontinent. One of the see the mountaintop? Can you of the two women. The Navghan edicts is on a granite rock enclosed see the nose? His smiling face?” Kuwo is 170-feet deep with rock- in a manor at Mount Girnar. I exclaimed, ‘”Yes, yes!” rather cut circular staircases leading to Like me, if you want to pay excitedly – satisfied with the view; the underground water cistern. obeisance to the mighty mountain and perhaps, Junagadh. The city and the temples that dot the range had after all, caught me by surprise A Spiritual Site from up close but cannot muster with its quiet charm. Junagadh is located at the foot the courage to climb 10,000 steps, of Mount Girnar (a group of avail the darshan (praying) service mountains), an important site of for a nominal fee at the Uparkot Into the Wild

Extensive game hunting during British India resulted in the Asiatic lion population almost reaching the brink of extinction. The Nawab of Junagadh is credited with pioneering conservation efforts to protect the last few Asiatic lions in his private hunting grounds, now the Gir National Park. Today, Gir is the only place in Asia where one can find the Asiatic lions in the wild.

GETTING THERE Junagadh is easily connected via Ahmedabad. AirAsia India flies to Ahmedabad from Bengaluru and New Delhi. 2 airasia.com

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