1113RUARY, 1914. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY $2.00 A YEAR
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4. 4. 4. • "41.+SAMMISINVSAI 41 The glid-PacificMagazine CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor VOLUME VII NUMBER 2 CONTENTS FOR FEBRUARY, 1914.
. • . Our Art Gallery • acifi c - - - - 117 la • Carnival Times in the Mid-P ifi • IN By Geo. F. Henshall Tramping in New Zealand - - - - - 125 By 0. C. Witness Round About Hilo - - - - - - - 131 By Henry Walsworth Kinney A Day on the Panama Ditch - - - - 137 By George B. Thayer The Sugar Industry in Hawaii - - - - 143 By Royal D. Mead A Garden Island River - - - - - - 149 By J. M. Lydgate A Story of Old Nauru - - - - - - 155 By Philip A. Delaporte Furnishing the Hawaiian Grass House — 161 From the Memoirs of The Bishop Museum A Sierra Club Outing - - - - - - 167 By Mary Randall Parsons Australia for the Tourist. - - - - - 173 By Alice Hunt Through Haleakala Afoot - - - - - 179 By Sam R. Dawdle On a Japanese Steamship - - - - 185 By Hugh M. Polwarth Market Day in the Philippines - - - 191 By John R. Arnold Hawaii—A Poem - - - - - - 196 • • By Eleanor Rivenburg • . Guide Book and Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific.
The Mid-Pacific Magazine Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H.
Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Ft2stoffice.
Permission is given to the Press to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given •
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Duke Kahanamoku, the great surfboard Hawaiian boy who beat all swimming records at the Olympic games in Stockholm, is here depicted on the 1914 poster of the Mid-Pacific Carnival. He will be one of the leading features of this year's events in Hawaii.
E— = E =.Eg____ . m The Mid-Pacific Magazine .=._...=, CONDUCTED BYB ALEXANDER HUME FORD
VOLUME VII. FEBRUARY, 1 91 4. NUMBER 2.
The Landing of Kamehameha.
Carnival Times in the Mid-Pacific
.63„, GEO. F.. FIENSHALL.
HE Honolulu Floral Parade and surpassed in the opinions of some, by Mid-Winter Carnival has arrived ! other events of the three or four days of T In Hawaii "Floral Parade" means jollification in the mid-Pacific metropolis. February. In February Honolulu lends herself for It has taken its place, with the Nice a week to celebration. The days and carnival, the New Orleans Mardi Gras, nights are so filled with events that there the Portland Rose Festival, Seattle Pot- is rest for no one who is at all convivial. lach and other spectacular celebrations of People come to Honolulu from all over holiday seasons which attract world-wide the world to see this highly picturesque attention. Beginning ten years ago with observance of a great national holiday, a small parade of decorated automobiles partly as a result of former parades and —a floral parade only—the observance of carnivals and partly as a result of adver- this holiday season has grown into a tising the carnival all over the civilized several days' carnival, of which the floral world. parade, still the great feature, is by no Last year there were four days of car- means the only big one and is, in fact, nival. The program included a garden 2-M. P. 117 118
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fete ; a remarkably realistic rehearsal of take a good part in the events of the a historic scene of over a hundred years season. ago, at Waikiki beach, where Kameha- In the aquatic sports there will be meha the Great, Hawaiian conqueror, events of international importance, in- landed in his victorious campaign to cluding contests against Duke Kahana- make himself ruler of all the island moku, the Hawaiian swimmer who won group ; there were horse races and mili- the world's championship in the Olympic tary athletics ; the Honolulu lodge of games at Stockholm and has since sev- Elks reproduced a California '49 mining eral times broken world's records, and camp ; the morning of Washington's champions from other lands. From Aus- birthday saw a great military parade, in tralia, New York, San Francisco and which nearly all the forces stationed in other places, champion swimmers have Hawaii took part, and in the afternoon been asked to come and try to wrest his came the floral parade, splendid in colors title from Kahanamoku. and closing a period of celebration that Hawaiians have another exhibition in left all the community tired, but pleased, which they specially excel, which will and brought out most enthusiastic praise also be shown at this time. It is that of from the tourists who crowded into the surf-board riding. If one should tell city to see it. people in some lands that boys and girls, This landing of Kamehameha is an event men and women, could take a piece of of great importance in Hawaiian history. board, say a plank six or eight feet long, It was the beginning of the end of a swim with it out to deep water, and series of campaigns which have earned then when a wave rolls in jump on the for Kamehameha the title of "Napoleon board and ride, standing erect, on that • of the Pacific." Warriors traveled in wave, and even standing on their heads, canoes in the days when he fought his the account would probably be received fights, and they battled with spears and with an air like that with which we axes. The result of his campaigning should listen to Munchausen should he was that for the first time the Hawaiian return, admitting his identity, to this islands were all under one monarch— mundane sphere. But that is exactly and he was the monarch. He landed again, what Hawaiians have done for many, many years, and what plenty of whites just as he did a hundred and twenty do now. The expert in this wonderfully years ago. Impersonated by a huge exhilarating game—it takes some phys- Hawaiian—it takes a big man to carry ical agility to do the trick—show all the the character of this giant—he came fancy tricks there are in surf-riding, in around Diamond Head with a fleet of the carnival week. canoes manned by modern Hawaiians Next on the program to keep visitors dressed as were the warriors of Hawaii engaged is a Japanese lantern parade. at the end of the eighteenth century. This occurs at night. It is a lively riot The King landed with his followers as of color and enthusiasm. Two years ago he did then—the whole drama repro- the Japanese gave such a parade. There duced as realistically as possible, with were thousands of their lanterns in line, Hawaiians taking all the parts. and a long procession of decorated car- riages and marching Japs. Japanese- Encouraged by the success of former made pictures of George Washington efforts, the people of Hawaii have en- were numerous and the cheering was tu- tered upon plans for a much larger multuous. No one who saw—and heard affair, sending a director-general, Mr. —that procession, would have dreamed James D. Dougherty, to the American of saying that the Japanese of Hawaii mainland to study plans for the parade are not friendly to their American breth- and carnival, while various lodges, so- em. This very striking parade would cieties and business organizations of Ho- have been repeated last year, but for the nolulu developed their own schemes to fact that the period of mourning, one 120
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Afea ture of Carnival week was the landing of Kamehameha and his hundreds of followers at Waikiki Beach.
• THE MID-PACIFIC 121
A prize-winning float—an old-style grass hut. year, for the death of the emperor, ing history, in dramatic floats, and there Mutsuhito, was not over. There is to be are Koreans, Russians, Hindoos, Fili- a great showing this time. The Japanese pinos, Portuguese, Spaniards, Porto excel in coloring and fireworks, and they Ricans and others. Germans and Brit- wish to show again their friendship in ish—English, Scotch and Irish—are nu- the face of the war talk, and they want merous in Hawaii, and they don't neglect to make up for their absence from the to see that their native lands are well celebration of last year. represented in the parade. The floral parade takes place on Feb- On February 23, the army and navy ruary 21. This parade is one of all resi- forces in Hawaii parade in honor of the dents of the islands, in decorated auto- birthday of Washington. (The 22nd be- mobiles and carriages, on bicycles and on ing Sunday, the national holiday will be foot. The floral adornments of some of observed on the day following.) In and the entries are most elaborate—some about Honolulu in February there will have cost as high as $500 for a single be probably some 6,000 soldiers of machine. All the islands take part. Uncle Sam's army. This military parade There are usually entries from the var- will be the largest one of its kind, on that ious lodges and other organizations in day, under the American flag. Honolulu, and with her strangely cos- In addition to these events the pro- mopolitan population, Honolulu is able to see most of the races in line, with their gram includes baseball games in which own peculiar plans of decoration. The mainland champions will compete, polo Chinese and Japanese are always entered, games in which Hawaii's team, already with their unsurpassed brilliancy of dec- listed with the country's best, tries con- oration, the Hawaiians bring out some clusion with some of the Pacific coast of the important scenes in their interest- men, and an Elks' production regarding THE MID-PACIFIC
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7:1 C C Q. C 0 THE MID-PACIFIC 123 which news has not yet leaked out from uninhabited land—if it could be called the sacred, secret lodge room within land. Punchbowl now is a beautiful tree- which it is being discussed. covered little hill, on the sides of which Then there are plans to show what are pretty homes that look over Honolulu Punchbowl looked like when it was an and the ocean beyond. But on some active crater. Punchbowl is a hill just evening during February it may for half behind Honolulu, about a mile from the an hour flare up, from its interior, with sea. Its name well describes its shape. a display that will remind the everlast- Long ago—ten million years or more, ing hills of what they saw in the long the geologists say,—it was a caldron of ago, before evolution had got even as fire, shooting with its dreadful artillery far as a monkey, and when perhaps even high into the heavens above a shaky and the moon had trees and inhabitants.
A grass house float. 124 THE MID-PACIFIC
Mt. Balloon, from Milford Track.
Lake Te Anau. Tramping in New Zealand
By 0. C. WITNESS
• EAR the foot of Lake Gunn we saw a large bird, with rich dark blue halted for lunch, and Edgar,Avho plumage, on the track a short distance N had gone on for a few yards to in front of them. The bird escaped into collect some dry material to light a luxurious growth of fern which cov- a fire, brought with him an addition to ers the ground in the locality. Wallis our party, in the shape of his assistant informed me that the bird had again guide, Kenelm A. E. Wallis ; who had appeared on the track two days pre- reached here on his return from Glade viously on his return from 'Glade House, and proved to be the bearer of House. He had a distinct view of it, an interesting piece of news. Edgar and made an effort to secure it, but, as had told us during our trip that Wallis on the previous occasion, it escaped into had, about four or five weeks previous- the fern, and, notwithstanding that he ly, when acting as guide for Mr. and made a careful and persistent search, it Mrs. Driver-Holloway, of London, seen did not again disclose itself. So end- a notornis on the track. After lunch, ed the latest and very interesting story therefore, I asked Wallis to give me about this rare and valuable bird, and particulars. This he readily did. From led to high hopes that it might be the Wallis's statement it appeared that luck of our party to be witnesses of its while on the track with Mr. and Mrs. reappearance on the track—that pos- Driver-Holloway, about five weeks pre- sibly, indeed, we might be fortunate viously, Mr. Holloway and his wife enough to be its captors and bear it in
125 126 THE MID -PACIFIC
triumph with us to Dunedin, and thus trees, too, which stand out in noble bring our walk to Te Anau to a bril- symmetry, adding greatly to the charm- liant termination. I am afraid we did ing landscape. One of these we rough- not seriously consider what our posi- ly measured, and estimated the girth of tion would be under the Native Game its trunk near the ground at about 12 Protection Act. No doubt to kill a no- feet. Following the course of the Eg- tornis would be a serious infringement linton River for a long distance down of the provisions of the act, even these parklands, it finally had to be though it be admitted that the Colonial crossed, and Edgar, to save time, took Museum at Wellington ought to have a up each in turn on his back and landed specimen of possibly the rarest bird us on the opposite bank. In the dis- known in the world, and of which the tance he pointed out the spot where fine specimen in the Museum at Dune- the Murcottburn flows out of the bush din is the only representative the Do- and joins the Eglinton, and we steadily minion possesses. But possibly it may pushed on to our resting place for the fall to the lot of someone to capture night. Darkness overtook us, however, this Te Anau bird alive, and if so, how before we reached the edge of the bush, would the authorities view this action ? which we penetrated in the gathering Would they consider the act should not gloom. In a few minutes we were at be enforced in such a case, and that a our destination, the Murcottburn camp, live notornis would form so great an at- situated right on the edge of the fine traction when suitably housed and cared little mountain torrent from which it for in the Domain at Wellington as to derives its name. A large, well-built justify its transference from the ferny frame tent formed the principal struc- glade in the bush near Nurse Creek, ture, and at its entrance a brilliant fire where it passes its life unaware of its soon shed its light on the foliage .of the strangely rare occurrence in our native surrounding trees and cast its warm fauna ? It is, perhaps, well that the de- glow on the thickly strewn beech leaves partment within whose jurisdiction the in the bunks that stretched around the matter lies, should not delay in con- tent. Supper was quickly spread, and sidering the position, and make known was partaken of with infinite zest. • its decision for the guidance of those Never were herrings and tomato sauce who may be tempted to pitch their camp and other choice tinned things which in the hope of securing a valuable prize. macs up the fare in these far-distant Probably the Hon. Thos. Mackenzie, camps more highly appreciated ; never with his ever-watchful care for the wel- did the rice and maizena of our city fare of our fast-diminishing native birds homes equal those wholesome dishes as will act promptly and decide the knotty prepared for us at the Murcottburn. problem. We resumed our journey and Sleeping-bags were got ready early, entered on the splendidly-grassed flats some of the party settled down in the of the Eglinton valley. The great main tent, and some of us. with candles drought that prevails everywhere has in hand, passed through 50 yards of turned the long grass from green to bush to a comfortable frame-tent built cream and brown, but it looks sweet for the accommodation of ladies, but and nutritious, and it is impossible not which was on this occasion placed at to admire the picture of these beautiful our disposal. It is erected on a grassy pasture lands, looking for all the world area of an acre or two, perfectly flat, like an English park, with their hand- and surrounded by tall forest trees— some surroundings of well-kept beech one of those sylvan glades of the Eg- trees. It is difficult to believe that linton Valley of which I have already the regularity of the plantations is not written. Bunks there are none, but a the work of man, so regular are their thick covering of beech-tops on the outlines. There are isolated specimen ground, at one end of the tent, barred THE MID -PACIFIC 127
right across by a thick tree-limb, af- of seeing the beautiful flora of our forded a comfortable bed, and, snugly higher altitudes in its most attractive tucked into our sleeping-bags, we were garb. We pressed onward up the steep soon oblivious of the sound of the Mur- side of the pass, surmounting spur after cottburn rushing over its stony bed and spur, until finally the summit was reach- of the other noises of the night. ed, the reading of the aneroid showing We were up betimes so that we might that we were 4500 feet above sea level. make a fair start on our final day's We had done the walk from the tamp walk, for we knew that we had a long to the top of the pass in exactly three day before us. The repacking of knap- hours, and Edgar expressed his satis- sacks and careful attention to boots and faction with our progress. We enjoyed socks, etc.. after breakfast was over a well-earned rest and the fine pano- took more time than we expected, how- rama of mountains and valleys which ever, and instead of leaving at 7 o'clock, stretched away on either side of the pass. the time set by Edgar on the preceding In front lay a narrow valley which runs night, it was 8 :20 before we left the in the direction of Te Anau Lake ; but Murcottburn. It was a lovely morning, it is not the route we are to take ; that entirely free from mist, and long before lies over a bare saddle to the right of we had emerged from our tents the call us, and before it is reached we have to of the kaka was heard. While lying make a precipitous descent for a few awake at an early hour I had heard his hundred yards, and cross a rough piece somewhat harsh note. "Kua tangs- to of granite moraine. The walk over kaka," the Maoris say—"the kaka has this might be easily improved by mak- called"—the signal of the coming day. ing a rough semblance of a track by • The start from the camp commences placing the stones in position. Grow- with a very stiff climb up a wooded ing among the pieces of granite and spur. The walk down the Eglinton also on a little projecting spur were Valley on the previous day had reduced many alpines, including Ranunculus our altitude to a few hundred feet above buchanani, with its pretty foliage ; also the level of Lake Wakatipu, but in the Dracophyllum menziesii, whose broad first 20 minutes from our final sleeping and finely curved, pink-touched leaves camp the aneroid told us we had as- at once attracted attention. Time did cended 350 feet. It was a very stiff not permit of much botanising, how- pinch indeed, and immediately the stop ever. Some specimens were gathered, was reached a halt was called to re- and the crossing of the moraine being cover breath. We then made a rapid accomplished, we made our way up the descent over a track none too good, steep hillside which ends in a saddle surmounting obstacles in the shape of overlooking the little valley down which fallen trees and their interlacing branch- we had to make our way. The descent es. We again steadily ascended until to the valley proved to be very steep. another 550 feet were registered, where It would be an easy and inexpensive there was a general demand for a spell. matter to cut a zig-zag track on each The short rest was appreciated, and we side of the saddle, and this would add then made another considerable descent much to the comfort of those who make over a zig-zagging track through the the trip in the future. In a short time bush until the point was reached where we were close to the bush where Wallis the climb up the Birley Pass com- had seen the Notornis. It is a truly mences. Good progress was made to charming spot. I have never seen a the bush-line, and the bare slopes, being more striking growth of fern. The rich reached, alpine plants of various kinds green fronds are spread in beautiful began to show themselves. The flower- symmetry over acres of ground, and ing season was long past, however, and they stretch for several hundred yards we were therefore denied the pleasure into the bush, entirely taking the place 128 THE MID -PACIFIC
of the undergrowth which is usually to the shoulder of the stiff hill we had be met with in the New Zealand bush. ascended, and known as Foliage Head. We approached from the open very cir- This is supposed to be three miles or so cumspectly, brought a field glass into from the wharf at the head of the lake play, and strained our eyes in the vain but it proved to be a long three miles, hope that it might be our good fortune and through a track portions of which to see the Notornis in the ferny glade are somewhat trying. It ended in a in which it is reported to have made its scramble down the steel) hillside for home. But we scanned the track and many hundreds of feet. A mile or so its neighborhood in vain. The aneroid before negotiating this precipitous des- registered near this spot a height of cent towards the lake shore some mem- 2200 feet above sea level. Lunch time bers of the party were feeling the strain having arrived, we boiled the billy in a of their long tramp pretty severely, and bend of Nurse Creek, and enjoyed one when we had got on a fairly level track of those satisfying meals of the track again a halt for a rest was called. By which we had learned to appreciate so this time 8 o'clock had arrived and highly. complete darkness had come down on Immediately after lunch a stiff ascent us. The track was tortuous and un- has to be made. We halted for a short even, and we tried to make our way spell at a spot where are located the re- through the gloom of the forest by mains of an old camp. Near by there striking matches. It was of little use, is a curious natural archway between however. We could not avoid the two enormous upright stone pillars. At stumps and roots and sudden drops a distance it seems to be 30 feet or more that beset our footsteps. The process high. The name Roman Arch was we made was painfully slow, and final- given to this natural gateway by the ly it was decided that Edgar should Hon. T. Mackenzie when he made a make his way to Glade House and pro- trip over the route before the track was cure a lantern. It took him two hours cut. We would have gone over to the to find his way there and back. It was archway to examine it more closely, but just 10 o'clock when we saw the wel- we realized that time was rapidly pass- come gleam of his improvised lantern— ing, and as Edgar informed us we still • a bottle, neck downward, with a candle had a long walk before we. should reach —coming towards us. I had come to the lake, we pressed on. We had some the•conclusion that we must make up enjoyable walking for a short while our minds to settle down on the track over a moss-clad pathway where the for the night, but his arrival soon foot sank deep into a soft and resilient changed the aspect of things, and we carpet whose rival is not to be found made a fresh start, albeit we found as in the product of Oriental looms. A we trudged on that we still had a con- steep piece of track was then traversed, siderable distance to walk. Progress and, this surmounted, we reached a was slow in the impenetrable darkness point from whence we got our first of the bush, and it was about 11 o'clock view of Lake Te Anau—that part of when we reached the wharf and 11:20 the head of the lake where the Worsley when the portals of Glade House were River empties its waters into the lake. opened to us, and we sat down to a From this point the Clinton Valley and well served meal, with table appoint- River cannot be seen. We were by ments to which we had not been accus- this time beginning to feel the effect of tomed since leaving Queenstown. It our strenuous walk since leaving the was a good few years since I had made Murcottburn, and it was a relief to us a short stay at the old Glade House, and to know that we were within measurable an inspection of the new building and distance of our destination. We press- its surroundings showed many improve- ed onward over the track which skirts ments. This far-away hostel in the THE MID - PACIFIC 129
midst of some of the finest of our lake "On our trip from Wakatipu to Mil- and mountain scenery affords very com- ford Sound, we were accompanied by fortable quarters for the visitor. The Wallis, and at the place described so bedrooms are necessarily small, but they accurately in the report of the Press As- are comfortable, the table is good, and sociation, Mrs. Driver-Holloway and I the attendance satisfactory ; and last, saw a striking-looking bird, which was but by n9 means least in importance, new to us, with dark plumage of a the sandfly nuisance is sensibly abated bluish hue, under a bush on the left of —possibly because of the clearing away the track. Wallis had gone ahead to of scrub which formerly stood in close get the fire going, and was not with us proximity to the house. at the time. When we got up to Wallis We had ended what would have been we asked him what it could be, and he throughout an exceedingly enjoyable could not tell us, but, after describing walk but for the rather too severe trials it more exactly and talking it over, he of the last day ; and these were to some suggested it might have been a notornis extent of our own making, for we had we saw. made too late a start at the Murcott- "After your visit, on looking up the burn, and had made too long a stay at facts about the notornis, I saw that Notornis camp. But for these little er- there was a skin of it in the Natural rors of judgment we should have reach- History Museum at South Kensington, ed Glade House before darkness had set and went down to see it. Through the in. At the same time it cannot be courtesy of Mr. Iredale, whom I found questioned that under present condi- in the bird department, and a native of tions over portions of the track the day Christchurch, New Zealand, I was en- from Murcottburn to Glade House is a abled to see the object of my quest. • very heavy one, and the trip cannot be- Mrs. Driver-Holloway has since been come popular for ordinary walkers un- down to see it, and we are both agreed til some improvements are effected. that the bird we saw was a notornis. Eventually the Wakatipu-Te Anau trip "The report of Mr. Fenwick's trip is is certain to take standard rank, and most interesting to us, and brings with when the Tourist Department takes the it many pleasant memories of one of track in hand and does the necessary the most enjoyable and interesting re-grading, it will soon jump into po- weeks we have ever spent. Mr. Fen- pular favor. wick will no doubt realize from his des- The following extract from a later cription of the glade in which we saw of Mr. Driver-Holloway, written in re- our mysterious bird friend how the ply to a request that he would furnish fact would impress us, especially as we some further particulars of the circum- had seen very few birds since crossing stances under which his wife and he saw the pass, and certainly nothing at all the notornis, will be read with interest : like the notornis." 130 THE MID-PACIFIC
III ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
Laupahoehoe is 23 miles from Hilo. This view is taken from the railway that winds 200 feet above the village. The little ram's horn cave is the landing place by small boat from the Inter-Island steamers. The City of Hilo with Mauna Kea in the distance.
Round About Hilo
By HENRY WALSWORTH KINNEY. ■
HE town of Hilo, on the island of which already extends south far into Hawaii, is second to Honolulu only Puna, and west to within nine miles of Tin size and importance. The town the crater, being an important factor. A • is situated on a slope rising above wharf now receives Island steamers, and a crescent shaped bay, with a broad eand another wharf is being constructed at beach, and presents a fine sight from the which ocean steamers may dock. A great sea, with the palm-fringed Coconut Isl- breakwater is now in course of construc- and, near the wharf, and with the often tion, which will give Hilo the best and snow-capped summits of Mauna Kea and largest harbor in the territory. Its com- Mauna Loa in the background. The main pletion, and that of the Panama Canal, town is situated between two rivers, Wai- must contribute greatly to the develop- loa (south) and Wailuku (north). South ment of the town, as it is a couple of hun- of the Wailoa is the Waiakea suburb, the dred miles closer to the direct route be- waterfront center, and north of the Wai- tween Panama and the Orient than is luku is the Puueo suburb, mainly a resi- any other island port. dential quarter. The Wailuku river was in early days a Hilo is rapidly increasing in com- great market place. Its falls, which can mercial importance, the extension of the be seen from the Pitman street bridge, Hilo Railway Company track, which has are pretty at high water. The northerly been pushed north as far as Paauilo, and one, known as Make (death) fall, is dan-
131 132 THE MID-PACIFIC
• ■ • ■
Green lake, at the Puna end of the Hilo railway is one of the beau- tiful crater lakes, the waters of the lake being covered with emer- ald green and shaded by green palms that grow on the inner slopes of the crater. THE MID -PACIFIC 133
its shore, a short distance east of Coco- composed of half a dozen planks, at a nut Island. Beyond the breakwater, spot where the fences come close to each which is reached by a continuation of other, one turns to the right, through a Front street, the road runs on to a point cane field, going at a right angle to the four miles from the postoffice, Lokoaka, road for about five minutes, when the where there is a fine bay, with an island gulch is reached. Here the falls may be and a pretty lagoon, as well as several seen mauka. They are a series of falls, extensive fish ponds. Here the demi- which can be reached by a path along goddess Waka and her granddaughter, the gulch. A flume runs over them, with Laieokawai, (famous on Oahu), hid in a a foot bridge to the north side of the cave under the water of the pond, when gulch. The name is derived from the they were pursued by priests who wanted fact that the water passes from one pool Waka to remain at their temple. From down to another through subterranean Lokoaka the deities went to Paliuli, the passages, bubbling forth so as to look like Hawaiian paradise, which is supposed to water boiling in a huge caldron. It is gerous, but down the other, swimmers possible to climb from the bottom to the may often be seen coasting. top of the series of falls. The road con- The Rainbow Falls lie a little over a tinues mauka to the Piihonua plantation mile from town. One follows Waianue- camp, near which there are numerous nue street mauka (mountainward) until other beautiful falls. the road forks, when the northerly branch The Kaumana Caves are really a vast • is taken. A few hundred yards beyond subterranean passage, formed under the the first bridge crossed, makai (seaward) 1880 lava flow, which started from a crev- of the road, lies the park, which has been ice on the side of Mauna Loa and ran for set aside right by the fall. The legend 45 miles to within 1 mile of the town, the has it that the goddess Hina lived in the eruption continuing ten months. To reach cave under the fall. A dragon, Kuna- the entrance one follows Waianuenue moo tried to drown her by throwing up a street mauka one mile where it forks. One darn makai of the falls. She called for takes the south fork, where the road aid to her son, Maui, who was at the time leads to Kaumana, and follows it several at Haleakala, trying to lasso the sun. He miles, the entrance being a few hundred crossed the ocean in his canoe in two yards above the Japanese blacksmith shop strokes (the double rock at the mouth of on the right hand side of the road. A the river is still called "Maui's canoe") ladder leads down into a small ravine, and chased the dragon to the "Boiling where one entrance leads to the makai Pots," where he threw red-hot stones in cave and another to the mauka one. Both the water, scalding the monster, which he contain interesting stalactites and lava finally killed. specimens. The makai cave becomes in The Boiling Pots lie 2.7 miles from several places a "double-decker," but the Hilo, on the road past Rainbow Falls. main tunnel is not difficult to follow, After passing the flume which crosses the though care should be noted in marking road, the spot where one must leave the the road, so as to prevent following side road and go on foot to the falls can be tunnels on the return. A few hundred found by counting the small culverts be- feet from the entrance the going is rather yond the flume. At the second of these, poor, owing to fallen stone barriers and 3-M. P. 134 THE MID -PACIFIC
the lowness of the roof. A bit further prophecy inspired him to persevere in the on it widens into a lofty cavern with a fight through times of adversity. fairly smooth floor, which continues for The Halae Hills, lying in a prominent miles, no one having reached the end. position mauka of the town, are known The mauka cave is more easy of traverse. as the place where Maui, the demi-god, One may walk through a lofty tunnel for secured the secret of making fire by rub- about fifteen minutes, when one may bing dry pieces of wood together. An emerge through another hole. Only the alae bird possessed this secret. Maui last couple of hundred feet are rough, snared it, and by threatening to kill it, owing to a jumble of rock. he compelled it to disclose the secret. The beach where the Hilo postoffice When the demi-god Maui with his stands (the land makai thereof was built magic hook fished the island of Maui up up by accretion in recent years) was from the sea, one of his brothers, who known as the Kaipalaoa beach (the sea of was in the canoe with him, disregarded whale ivory). Here stood the chiefs' his command not to look back, and conse- houses. Before Kamehameha had con- quently Maui's plan to connect Maui with quered Hilo, he once landed at Papae Hawaii failed. The island of Maui slip- (on the beach, near Puna), where he pur- ped back to its present position, and only sued two fishermen, but was incapaci- a small piece thereof, Coconut Island, re- tated by getting his foot caught in a lava mained on the hook. The mark of the crack. One of the two then wounded him book is shown near the springboard. in the head with a paddle, and he and the Mokuola and Makaoku, the piece of others threw spears at the king, who the mainland opposite the island, formed warded them off, until he was rescued by a place of refuge, where warriors and his followers. Later, when •Hilo had others retired in times of defeat and had been . conquered, the two men were safety. It contained about 36 acres, a brought before the king at Kaipalaoa, and lava crack marking the boundary. Where • his retainers urged him to have them kill- the Kennedy house stands, east of the ed. The king, however, refrained from Iiiand, human sacrifices were frequently taking revenge, and here he proclaimed made and the remains fed to the sharks. the great Mamalahoa law, for the protec- The Island is now Hilo's famous bathing tion of the weak against the strong, place. There are several public bath whereby the old, the weak and the chil- houses, and Hawaiians ferry visitors dren might pass on the roads unmolested. across the channel for a small sum. He also allowed the two to take from his Hilo Bay is a fine sheet of water for store house on the beach as much as they boating, and launches may be had at the could carry. Wailoa river landings, which will go to The Naha Stone lies in the yard of the all points in, and to places outside, the first house on the north side of Waianue- bay. The river is quite pretty, and at its nue street, above Pleasant. When Kame- mouth is a busy waterfront with sampans, hameha, as a youth, visited Hilo, he was and landing places for fre'ght. The told by a prophetess that if he moved the breakwater extends several thousand feet stone he would conquer Hawaii, but if he out to sea, and construction will be car- turned it, he would conquer all the isl- ried on for several years. Reed's Bay is a ands. He turned it, and his faith in this picturesque inlet, with residences along THE MID -PACIFIC 135 still exist in the forests mauka, but which. houses, and a couple of miles further on has been found only once by a mortal, still is Papae. From this place a and he could not find it again. trail, which cannot be found without a From Lokoaka it is possible to proceed guide, leads to the old Puna trail, which by foot (or with care on horseback) over from this point , south is in good condi- the fish pond dike and by trail to Waiuli, tion. It leads into Puna to the Shipman a small fishing village, and thence, by a ranch house. The lava country beween still poorer trail, to Waiokawa, where the road to Lokoaka and Puna is crossed was a village with a heiau, of which noth- by many trails. The main one leads from ing remains. A few miles further on is this road to Paukupahu. These should Paukupahu, where there are a few grass not be taken without a guide.
Th famcus Eathing pots outside of Hilo. 136 THE MID-PACIFIC
Panama Locks. A Day on the Panama Ditch
By GEORGE B. THAYER.
FTER the usual shower bath at from them and dumping the material the Y.M.C.A. building, I easily' along the sides of the embankment at A dropped off to sleep under the different levels. At the other end of quieting influence at a distance, the embankment, to the southwest, load- of several Caruso phonographic selec- ed trains and empty trains were coming tions and the music, near at hand, of a and going, the material coming from fine pianist, accompanied with a violin. hills in that direction. The break in The next morning I was ready to see the the embankment, at the spillway, enabled big locks. the trains to pass through and deliver To dig the canal and build the locks the rocks and dirt, as the case demand- without a mixture of profanity, now and ed, either on the lake side or the other then, as one of the properties of the side of the embankment. The Chagres cement is hardly to be expected. Climb River, which continues to flow through up with me into the tower at the spill- the spillway during its construction, was • way, then, and listen. To get there I crossed both above and below the spill- again crossed over the two foot bridges way by railroad bridges. spanning the twin locks, in which the Soon after reaching the top of the iron gates are about ready to be slipped tower I counted fourteen trains in ac- into the sockets where they will finally tion along the embankment, and includ- swing. These gates are of riveted plate ing the switchers there were twenty iron, each gate being fifty feet wide and locomotives under the controlling eye of ninety feet high and having been built one man in the tower. This man was • up practically in their final positions. a big, red-faced individual and he had But I promised not to bore you Vioith two negroes as assistants. A telephone figures. I loafed along the dam, which inside the tower, a pair of field glasses, is merely a great railroad embankment, a compressed air whistle, a megaphone, perhaps two miles long but half a mile two arms and a loud voice were some of wide at the base. The spillway is a the implements be brought into use in cement dam being built half way along his business that afternoon. His two the embankment. In time of high wa- assistants each used a collection of dif- ter in the lake the spillway will relieve ferent colored flags and a set of big it of the surplus. figures, running from one to nine, paint- When the top of the tower, which is ed on canvas frames. These flags and perhaps 100 feet high and almost di- frames the assistants hung out on the rectly above the spillway, was reached outer railing of a balcony which extend- a comprehensive view of the work ed around the four sides of the tower. spread out before me. Off to the north- At Bas Obispo, the next morning, I west about a mile or more were half a got my first view of the canal cut. The dozen steam shovels eating their way floor of the canal is perhaps five hun- into the sides of the hills. Empty trains dred feet wide at this point and along of flat cars were running out to these the bottom and up the sides of the cut shovels and loaded trains were coming are some twelve tracks at different
137 138 THE MID -PACIFIC
levels. Many of these were in constant short, sharp toot of a locomotive whistle, use. I started up one of them. There repeated in rapid succession, close by, was a double track on this level and caused him to drop his glass jar of the loaded trains came down the outer cocoa and say, "We've got to get out of track, that is, the track farthest from this." He ran two or three hundred the side of the cut. The tracks are feet and crawled under a train of flat broad guage ; that is, five feet, and the cars. I was a close second. flat cars are built on ;he same or broader "Get well under," he said. "You guage still. I had to get well out on never can tell where they will strike." the precipice side of the track to avoid He sat with his legs across the rail and the rocks that sometimes carelessly hung arm around the brake beam. I huddled over the side of the cars and, as the under in much the same position as re- long trains came down towards me, I gards the big wheels of the flat car. noticed that occasionally a rock slid off "0, it is against rules to move a train and bumped recklessly down into the of flat cars just before a shot, so you are bottom of the cut 100 feet below. Still, safe enough." Just then a dozen ex- care was practically the only essential plosions occurred in rapid succession, ex- and I kept that in stock every minute. plosions that I suggested must have While I was picking my way along done some damage, judging from the up the cut the traffic on my level ave- report. raged about like this. Three loaded "0, no. You wait. The ones that trains and one empty and five "helpers," make the most noise do the least good. extra engines, passed me during the five The ones that do the work don't make minutes I timed them. Farther up the much noise." He didn't realize there cut I began to come upon groups of was a sermon in that sentence of his. well drills and clusters of tripod drills. Just then the earth shook violently but The well drills are much like the fam- the sound of the explosion itself was iliar ones we see at home, only they decidedly muffled. After a brief period are built on a lighter plan and ten or of silence a few rocks fell near us, the twelve are grouped together on a level. locomotive whistle sounded one quieting The men easily push them along on toot and then we crawled out and the boards from hole to hole, and after one foreman finishe'd his meal. "You see, I • level has been thus honey-combed for a am responsible for the keeping the holes certain distance, the drills are quickly drilled as fast as the firing gang want pulled up on some flat cars and taken to load them. The firing gang must to another level. The tripod drills, on keep ahead of the steam shovels or there the other hand, are seen sticking to the is trouble all around." sides of the rocky cuts anywhere their "I haven't seen them unload a train sharp-pointed legs can get a footing. of flat cars yet," I said to a yardmaster Both kinds of drills use compressed air, the next day down near the Pedro Mi- conveyed to them through long lines of guel locks. pipes, leading down into the cut from "All right," he replied, with an ac- different directions. commodating manner. "I'll put a train "Wouldn't you like a glass of water ?" out there for you as soon as you can get said the foreman of one of these drill there," and I hustled out on to the gangs. "Joe, bring the gentleman some dump. The track extended out into the water." Ice water it was, too, and the open country about half a mile, radiat- foreman was eating his noon meal in ing from the yardmaster's tower like the shade under a sheetiron shed scarce- the ribs of an open fan. True to his ly big enough for one person. The word, he had a train backing out on to foreman insisted upon my at least shar- the fill by the time I got there. The ing a sandwich with him, but he had not loaded trains which the day before were half finished his luncheon when the all going down out of the cut towards THE MID - PACIFIC 139
the Atlantic were now, as I traveled ed up the side. The heat issuing from along through the cut, going toward the the crevices in the bank was plainly felt Pacific, and this train was one of them. and I had to keep moving to ease my The cars, as I have said, were built on a feet from the heat that was penetrating broad guage. - The side boards were up the soles of my shoes. Some fifteen feet on one side only. There were no end up the side I thrust the paper bag down boards and an iron apron between each into a hole and watched it. It soon lie- made the floor continuous. I measured gan to turn black and while I was one of them with my umbrella and made glancing at another hole from which the car fifteen feet wide and forty-five thin smoke was also issuing, the paper feet long. This rough measurement bag burst into a flame. I threw on a proved not far out of the way. Many piece of old rope and one or two splin- times there were thirty of these cars ters of wood lying near and soon had a attached to one locomotive, a six-wheel blaze a foot high. It was too hot to my Mogul, and, in coming out of the cut, if feet to stop with comfort, however, and the train was switched to one of the up- I left the fire burning. per levels, the engineer had to hit 'er When the steam shovels first dug into up pretty lively to make the grade. At this section of the canal, it was feared times, one and perhaps two helpers were by some they had tapped a volcano, but needed to get the train out. When the simple explanation seems to be one it came back with the long line of of chemical action. Some minerals in empties, winding, like a great snake, the soil, when brought to the air, begin from one level to another, down into to emit heat, through natural chemical the cut backwards, the tail brakeman action. About 1 o'clock I came upon a kept an air whistle going lively to warn gang of fifty men vigorously shifting • the men of the train's approach. some tracks, or rather straightening out Well, my special was all of a quarter two very short, sharp curves in what of a mile long and when the rear car of was otherwise a straight piece of double the backing train reached the end of track. the fill, the train stopped. A scraper on "Do the tracks get out of true very the last car had been attached to a flat often?" I inquired of the foreman. car next to the engine by a cable and "Well, those tracks have moved four when the train started slowly to retrace feet since 11 o'clock, while the men its steps, the cable wound up on a big were at dinner. You look down on the wheel on the flat car, dragging tlik next level and you will see what is is scraper towards it until the whole thirty doing. Something started the Y. M. cars were scraped clear of their rocks C. A. hill last night, I don't know what and dirt. The scraping process took it was." He looked at me and 1 am about five minutes. Then the spreader afraid I showed guilt. I had slept up came along, a machine something like a there the night in question and I re- road scraper, on a flat car attached to membered carelessly turning in my cot another engine, and pushed the stuff once in the night, with a bounce. further away from the rails and down Down in the next level there certainly the sides of the fill. was something doing. Have you ever Soon I was down in the canal again. watched a ground mole at work? Down I noticed, up on the second or third level in the next level the ground was bulging from the bottom, (the men tell me they up in the same way. The track had had to go down but thirty feet more to been lifted up into a ridge about ten reach the limit, that is, the bottom of feet high and twisted out of a straight the finished canal) I noticed what ap- line and as I stood there new cracks ap- peared to be thin smoke coming out be- peared and lumps of dirt broke away tween the chunks of drab colored clay . and crumbled down the sides of the new- I picked up an old paper bag and climb- ly formed ridge. The ground on the 140 THE MID -PACIFIC
level where I stood was full of fresh tilted up a couple of feet and this bulge cracks that made walking about some- extended back from the shovel some what unstable. I frequently broke down fifty feet. The shovel would have to re- through. The compressed air pipes laid main with its nose in the bank all night, along the top of the ground were slowly instead of drawing back out of danger, scraping the surface smooth, the dirt as they usually do at the end of the piling up on one side and falling down days' work. over the sides of the pipes as they scrap- "Do these slides ever come sudden- ed along. Occasionally some obstruc- ly ?" I asked of a locomotive engineer. tion would force the pipes along with "Not often. We haven't lost but four the moving mass till, the obstruction giv- or five shovels all told. The night be- ing way, the pipe snapped back into line. fore the Fourth of July last year, we One good sized pipe snapped back fully lost one right over there. In the morn- four inches as I watched it. There ing only the boom was in sight. And was, on the level where I stood, prob- it don't pay to repair them when they ably two acres thus on the move and get buried. The movement of the dirt the boundaries of the moving mass were twists and tears them so. When that clearly defined. The surface of the one was dug out, the boiler was in one slide was from a foot to two feet lower place, the car in another and the boom than the more stable portions and the in another, and all were so broken up it direction was, of course, towards the did not pay to try to repair them. Those bottom of the canal. headlights you saw last night were re- Half-way up the side of the cut the pair trains coming up the cut to repair whole mass was crumbling. The dirt the shovels. They only work nights. was constantly dropping down in small They have a regular repair shop on chunks and occasionally good sized wheels. The engineer of the shovel re- • rocks came down with it. I watched a ports at once any part that needs repair- boulder farther up. It was perhaps ing. Then there are inspectors who also fifteen feet in diameter and rested upon look over the shovels and report any- another boulder still larger. I knew thing they think should be attended to, what was coming, for the telltale peb- so a shovel rarely breaks down. We bles and sifting soil continually sliding cannot afford to let them. Will you • down towards the level where the men have a drink of water ?" were still at work trying to keep the This Montana man got up into the tracks straight enough for traffic, were cfib, opened a little cupboard and hand- sufficient for any one, even though he ed me down a cup of ice water, drawn was not a red neck. The men also from an ice tank on the engine. "0, kept their eyes on that boulder, too, and the government treats us pretty good," when it did start, very gradually at first, he said, "but excuse me now, for I have the men ran in both directions. The something to attend to." boulder came thundering down close to When a train of empties draws up the track, but stopped 'in the soft mealy beside a steam shovel the loading does mass without further interruption to the not take long. Four or five shovels fill work. a car and the man with a yellow flag The ground mole, during the after- then signals the locomotive engineer. noon raised the ridge down on the lower The train moved just enough to bring level to fifteen feet in height and extend- the next car within range of the shovel, ed his work of upheaval diagonally which usually is loaded ready for it. I along the tracks for some fifty feet. An- forgot to time the loading but feel sure other member of the same family, on the thirty cars are loaded in less than the level above, was getting ready to half an hour. But, as can now be ap- put a steam shovel out of business. One preciated, the shovel at work is the side of the track back of the shovel was heart of the whole great undertaking. THE MID - PACIFIC 141
It must not be allowed to stop. Soon men warning to throw their strength after, 1 had to dodge under a freight into the end of the crowbar, had be- car, where a negro made room for me. come a familiar sound to me. The next He advised me to crawl closer, which I morning the movement had ceased. It did, though it proved unnecessary. The was not to be a continuous performance. shot was an extra heavy one just the Still the tracks had moved in all about same. ten feet and the ground had dropped "How do you know the shots have all out during the night from under the been fired?" I asked of the boss of the rails, leaving a seven-foot hole to be firing gang, who sat at the same table filled in the morning, with a car or two at supper that night. of broken stone. An acre, not far "Well, we don't, but it is very rare away, was also found about three feet to have a missed hole now. At first the below its ordinary level. current was not so strong and then the Two or three years ago a slide cov- shovel would dig into it and four or ering some fifty acres, started on the five men about the shovel would get kill- opposite side of the cut, but they seem ed. Besides, then we left them loaded to have stopped it by taking off the top, four or five days, but now we don't. that is digging off the top of the hill And the current we get from Gorgona back for nearly a quarter of a mile. The or Pedro Miguel is much stronger. same remedy is being applied to the Y. What you saw this afternoon, which M. C. A. hill, which this time, started looked like a little flash in the air, was to slide again after one of the dryest my men blowing out the holes made by dry seasons ever known here. the drills. We blow them out at first During the two weeks I was in the with a small charge. There is not much canal, the sky was usually filled with • danger from falling rocks if you only clouds we would call thunder heads at look up. You can see them coming home. There was, however, a back- down in time to dodge. Still, one man ground of deep blue. Yet there were not long ago had his skull smashed at few showers and scarcely any thunder. 500 yards and the same stone glanced The nights were such that, without ex- and broke another man's leg." cept:on, I found myself before morning When I told the secretary at the Y. reaching down for the blanket. The M. C. A. that night about the slide, he southern cross and other constellations • got me to go down into the cut again new to me made the evenings out of with him and point out, before 'lark. doors interesting. It got dark about Then it was I noticed several long 6:30 and the mornings were equally cracks under the building, some of slow in appearing. The evenings were them new ones, he said. The voice of such that I never saw a fan in use at the section boss with his gang trying to any of the numerous entertainments. keep the shifting tracks iri place, could Flies were scarcely to be seen anywhere be heard well into the night. The re- and I didn't hear another mosquito after gular cadence with which he gave his landing that one the first day. 142 s • II E • ■
. , THE MID-PACIFIC
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For square miles about the big mill every available inch of ground is planted in cane. Uprooting lantana by machinery. A parasite was finally found that devoured it.
Sugar Industry in Hawaii
By ROYAL D. MEAD. ■
HE former Governor General of tion, manufacture and freight-handling the Philippine Islands, in his in- devices and suitable and adequate steam- • T augural address, comparing the ship and railroad facilities." Philippine Islands with the rIa- With the omission of the personal waiian Islands, made the following state- factor, the foregoing is a fair and concise ment : statement of the elements which have en- "The total population of Hawaii is tered into the successful development of 198,000, or about one-fortieth part of the the sugar industry of the Hawaiian Isl- population of the Philippine Islands, now ands. The same pioneer spirit, Yankee approximately 8,000,000. The total ex- grit and tenacity which made possible the ports from Hawaii in 1907 were $29,- enormous production of gold in California 000,000. The total exports from the and which rebuilt San Francisc..) have Philippine Islands for the same year were made possible in Hawaii a yearly pi (Auc- $34,000,000. In other words, Hawaii tion of over half a million tons of sugar, produced for export approximately valued at approximately $50,000,000. thirty-six times as much per capita as did In reporting upon the sugar industry the Philippine Islands. * * * The expla- of Hawaii in 1885 United States Consul nation of this lies in the fact that Ha- General Putnam said : waii employs modern methods of cultiva- "American tact and breadth were never
143 144 THE MID- PACIFIC
more forcibly illustrated than in the d,:- In 1883 we find the following "reliable velopment of this industry. Without la- statement" in reference to the limit of bor, with adverse conditions in the topo- production in the Hawaiian islands : graphy of the country and other lack of "From an estimate which we have ob- facilities to get their crops to port for tained from a most reliable source, the shipment, through patience and the won- Hawaiian islands have only about 100,000 derful energy which disting-ui ;he,. our acres which can be termed sugar lands ; race they have transformed the barren but even of such lands we cannot make valleys and foothills into the most pro- full use, either on account of our scanty ductive canefields in the world, and water supply or on account of location. brought to their aid all the devices and In the Island of Hawaii, for instance, assistance in machinery that the genius though as far as soil is concerned there of the age has offered." are some tracts of land which to the un- That statement was true when it was initiated seem admirably fitted for cane, written, but even then fertilizers were they are useless ; if over 1000 feet above just beginning to be used ; the five-roll the sea level they will yield a crop in mill was still an experiment ; maceration thirty months, and few men are bold en- . was being discussed ; the best extraction, ough to face such a lengthy period before obtained in only one mill, was 72 per they get any return for their money and cent. But two large ditches • had been work, let alone the ordinary risks which built and pumping irrigation was yet un- a planter is exposed to. On the same thought of. The progress of the past island, as a rule, to plant cane below 400 twenty years has more than justified the feet from the sea level is dangerous on above words of appreciation, and there account of the drought. Thus on one is no sign of diminution in the creative island, the one offering the broadest energy, the inventive genius and the keen tracts of land for cane cultivation, the spirit of progress. area where this industry can be success- • The story of the development of the fully carried on is considerably narrowed sugar industry of Hawaii is one of trials, by mere position. discouragements and failures, as well as "At the present time we have 40,000 of progress and success. It interweaves acres under cultivaion for cane ; and of with the political, social and religious this about 26,000 acres are cropped each history of the islands ; touches kings, rev- yea.. Could we—which is, as far as we olutions, fabulous fortunes forced from understand, practically impossible—but, the soil and total losses of immense for the sake of argument, we may say, wealth in a few crops. Plantations could we cultivate the whole 100,000 have paid dividends of $10 a ton of acres, we could not crop more than 52,000 sugar one year and lost $20 a ton the acres each year. Now, from last year's next. In 1905 one plantation that con- crop of 26,000, there were produced 56,- servatively counted on a crop of 20,000 000 tons of sugar, or about two and one- tons of sugar harvested 1600, a net loss sixth tons to the acre, taking things by of over $100 per ton. The cause was and large throughout the group. A great "leaf hopper" and droughts ; and to many deal of nonsense is written about the pro- others disaster has come as unexpectedly, ductiveness of our soil; true that in some though not as completely. exceptionally favored spots, rich valley THE MID -PACIFIC 145
bottoms—and even they only for the first mountain water and the development of crop planted—as much as five or six tons the artesian well supply. to the acre have been obtained. But such Fourth—The cooperation of the var- places are exceptional, and the statistics ious plantation interests, both in the for- of the yield of 1882 conclusively prove mation of an association of planters and that the average yield of the cane lands the organization of an experiment station. in these islands is very little better than From the report of the Committee on it is anywhere else. The very utmost, Foreign Relations of the United States then, that we could get from our sugar Senate in 1894 is taken the following ex- lands would be about 100,000 tons a cerpt, which contains the statement that year. Practically we can never obtain one of the controlling considerations in any such crop, for, though the land may making the treaty was that Hindoos were be there the elevation and lack of water to be imported into the islands to supply are an insuperable barrier to our making needed labor, which, under British regu- use of them. As a fact Hawaii has very lations, would have meant a certain meas- nearly reached her limit of production, ure of British control of said laborers, and what she produces is not a drop in and which might have led even further. the bucket when compared with what the The statement is as follows : United States consumes." "The islands prior to the treaty were Even as late as 1893 it was authorita- declining in population, and owing to the • tively stated that the limit of production decay of the whale fishery were declining of the entire group was 150,000 tons. in wealth. Their soil is, perhaps, the In view of all these predictions it is most productive for sugar raising of any somewhat of a relief to quote from a re- known in the world. But the high tariff port by Dr. H. W. Wiley in 1899, who on sugar and the exceedingly low wages states : From the most reliable informa- which must be paid in tropical countries tion accessible it may be said that under for raising sugar to supply the United • the stimulus of American enterprise the States, rendered the industry difficult. In Hawaiian islands will produce for export 1875 a movement arose in the islands for to the United States about 500,000 tons of the importation of Hindoo coolies to sup- sugar in 1910," the total production of ply the requisite cheap labor, and the con- the islands then being 282,807 tons. sent of England was • promised. The The great development of the sugar growth of the Australian colonies had industry of Hawaii since 1876 is due to a gradually developed an improving market great many causes, of which the follow- for Hawaiian sugar, and, after a trial of ing are the principal factors : it by some of the Hawaiian planters, it First—The granting by the United was found that better prices could be States of the reciprocity treaty of 1876, obtained in the free trade port of Sydney followed by the annexation of the islands than in San Francisco, and return car- in 1898. goes could be bought there much more Second—Improved machinery and im- cheaply. Preparations were making for proved methods in cultivation, including sending there the entire crops of 1876-77. the use of fertilizers. These matters came to the knowledge of Third—Irrigation, conservation of the State Department. The Hawaiians 146 THE MID- PACIFIC
had been pressing for many years for a not long before a new line of steamers commercial treaty with the United States, was established between San Francisco but without success. It was now felt in and Honolulu, and a line of sailing ves- the State Department that the question sels between Honolulu and New York. was assuming graver importance, and, as The development of American shipping, political supremacy in the islands must due entirely to the production of sugar, inevitably follow the commerce, it was is one of the remarkable and permanent recognized that this country must make results of the admission of Hawaiian favorable concessions to them or else let sugars into the United States free of them follow the inevitable tendency and duty. drift slowly into the status of an English The development of the sugar mills colony. The result was the negotiation and the improved machinery used by the of its existing treaty and its ratification plantations, nearly all of which has been by the consent of the Senate." obtained from the United States, has The treaty of reciprocity gave Hawaii given large returns to American factor- its first great impetus in trade and de- ies and has afforded employment to thou- veloped tremendous activity in produc- sands of American mechanics and labor- tion, which has continued to the present ers. day. The impetus which the treaty gave In 1886, during one of the periodical to the sugar business has produced re- efforts made by mainland interests to ob- sults which were not anticipated, and tain abrogation of the treaty, the situation which have been most far-reaching, both was very well suIpmed up by the United in the effect upon Hawaiian industry and States Consul General at Honolulu in a trade and upon the industries and ship- report to his Government, in which he ping of the mainland. stated : New life was infused into every branch "As the figures clearly show, the ben- • of business in the islands, capital from efits of reciprocity do not all come to the the United States was attracted and in- people of the islands. The 200 ships vested, the population increased, the com- which have cleared from this port during merce of the United States developed to the year were built by American ship- a remarkable degree, and the American builders and are property of American influence in the islands increased and pre- citizens. The loss of the treaty is a cer- dominated to a very great extent. tain loss of the business of these vessels As trade grew and prospered, it was and a large per cent of the capital in- demonstrated that the balance was not all vested in them. Two-thirds of the capital on the side of the Hawaiians. Hawaiian production (principally sugar and rice) invested in plantations and the facilities within a short time increased fourfold, for the production of sugar is the capital while imports into Hawaii of the pro- of Americans. Three-fourths of all the ducts and manufactures of the United imports into the kingdom are the produc- States increased in almost a like ratio tion of American farms and manufactor- A large number of vessels, both sail and ies and after the expenses are paid and steam, were built in the United States for the dividends struck, almost the entire trade between the States and the islands, profits find their way to the States for and also for inter-island trade. It was permanent investment. But this is only THE MID-PACIFIC 147 the dollars and cents view of the natter tons. By 1901 it had reached 360,000 Annexation to the United States in tons, and 535,156 tons in the year 1909. 1898 has been the greatest single factor The immediate effect of annexation was in the development of the sugar industry to establish confidence in the stability of of Hawaii since the reciprocity treaty. the Hawaiian Government and a free pro- The sugar crop of 1897-1898, the last tected market for sugar, both of which before annexation, amounted to 229,000 elements had theretofore been lacking.
The railway through the canefields. 148 THE MID-PACIFIC Gradually the mountains are worn down by the river.
A Garden Island River
By J. M. LYDGATE. •
-7 HEN a discriminating, albeit merce ; such waterways as are suggest- i kindly criticism, demurs at the ive of the power-plant rather than the WI want of lake and river scenery power boat. in our Island landscape, we And yet, we have, especially on Kauai, must needs accept the charge with patient a few streams whose leisurely flow may humility. It stands to reason, that small perhaps entitle them to a very humble islands in the sea can't furnish much in place among the rivers of the world, the way of lake or river. The watershed where they may win a measured interest area is too small, and the distance too on other grounds than size. Among short, for either volume or length. these Hawaiian rivers the first place may Furthermore, our islands are so high, be accorded to the Hanalei. Reaching with so steep a fall from mountain to away back into the early dawn of an age sea, that there is no chance for lake or that far outruns all history, when the river. So, where larger and flatter coun- island mass was first cool enough to pre- tries have broad, deep-flowing rivers cipitate the moisture that bathed its brow bearing heavy-laden freighters, we have on the wings of the trade wind, and the brawling, mountain forest streams, run- water began to trickle to the sea, seeking ning white with foam, too hurried to ling- such natural depressions as the wayward er for lakes, too busy to pause for corn- fire goddess had left in her roughly 4-M. P. 149 150 THE MID- PACIFIC
finished handiwork, and gathering volume Moved by some mighty throe of the and violence as it ran, the process of thralled Enceladus, far down in the bow- erosion first began. Little by little the els of the earth, the great fluted lid of shallow channels deepened, little by little the island, shivering and trembling, set- the walls crumbled, cutting down at first tled back, jarring down, down, while the a narrow gorge, and then widening foothills held their breath, down, down gradually to an ample valley, yet retain- until there seemed to be no stopping ing always the V-shaped cross section, place, hundreds of feet perhaps. And because the point of utmost pressure of when at length the inward groaning died the growing tool was always at the very away and the island came to rest, the bottom of the V. Down, down it went, whole landscape was changed. What sometimes savagely, grinding and tear- had been foaming mountain streams in ing and gnawing; sometimes gently re- the bottom of narrow gorges, were now touching and smoothing and polishing, deep, land-locked fiords running far into but always and ever cutting farther and the heart of the island, which was thus deeper into the heart of the island, until scalloped deep by a dozen of them, Wai- the great mountain mass was rent in mea, Hanapepe, Huleia, Wailua, Ana- twain, as one cuts a slice out of a melon. hola, Kalihiwai, Waioli, Waipa, and Down, down it went through countless finest of them all, Hanalei, a fiord so deep ages, knowing no end nor weariness, and sheltered that in it could have ridden until at length the level of the sea was the commerce of the Pacific. But that reached. There at length the noisy con- was long, long before the days of com- quest ceased, and the restless stream merce or even of war, and we may not found peace in the restless sea. Sea-level imagine even a savage canoe threading was the foundation plane beyond which the quiet waters of this hidden fiord. the knife of erosion could not cut. Then began a new era of development. And so we had a V-shaped gorge, The former process was reversed, and hundreds of feet deep on either side, the brawling river set to work to repair whose lowest point, at the mouth, just the damage it had wrought. Still con- touched the sea level, but from which, tinuing to tear out, with the same restless running back, the bed of the stream rose energy, in the heart of the mountains, it more or less rapidly, in keeping with carried down its spoil to fill up the great gash it had made, and win back from the • the slopes of the surrounding country. A valley, like countless other valleys, big sea, by a slow, but steady process of con- and little, throughout these islands, but quest, extending over countless ages, very different from the present Hanalei. that which the sea had won, in a night Meantime, the countless millions of perhaps. Filling in, as does a sluicing tons of "spoil" which the brawling engineer, to right and left, by switching stream had eaten out of the vitals of the the feeding stream, keeping the whole island had gone to sea, in some measure face level, the river fought back the re- carried far away by the action of the luctant sea, clinging desperately to every ocean currents, and in some measure de- inch that it gained. However angrily the posited in the generous bay, to the serious incoming surges roared and trembled and obstruction of the same. Had the evolu- fought, like infuriated monsters blind tion ceased there, we would never have with rage, sometimes bent on beating had a valley like Hanalei, with a broad back the invading shore, sometimes en- stretch of bottom land, and a sluggish deavoring to sweep it away into the silent meandering river, but one like Wainiha, depths of its own bosom, the effort was deep and narrow, with a brawling stream vain. The work of restoration went running white in the bottom. But at this steadily forward ; madly at times, as point there was a new departure in the great roaring freshets came tearing down evolution and a new factor entered in to from the mountains, bearing train loads modify results. of material, huge rocks, and stones, and THE MID -PACIFIC 151
trees—plums in the pudding of finer In one significant respect, at least, the stuff. These were busy days, along the Hanalei will not take odds of any river whole line of action, no less than at the in the world—that is in the wealth and mouth, where all this material was to variety of scenery to the mile. Most be placed, rapidly as it came, and yet rivers are slow moving pictures on very wisely, for all time. Then there were long films. Very gradually, and through slack days, when the stream ran low, and many miles of distance, you pass from worked quietly, depositing fine silt, to the sea coast scenery of the mouth, fill in the gaps and smooth up the finish. through the midlands, to the mountain So the work of repair went on, through scenery of the source. The man who ages—countless perhaps, but not so sees the one often has no knowledge at countless as those dark ages of destruc- all of the other. The Hanalei furnishes, tion. in one magnificent panorama, the whole And there were stages of the unfinish- varied range of its beauties, all to be ed product, when over large areas, the compassed in one discriminating survey. result might seem to be uncertain, where At any selected spot, overlooking the in broad stretches of salt marsh the sea river, one may trace its whole brief story clung sullenly to its own, and defied the from its birth in the cloud-capped moun- river to use what it had won. tains to its death in the boundless sea. At some period of this unfinished con- Turning one way, the outlook faces the dition the first Hawaiians—or was it vast stretches of the broad ocean—the some earlier race—must have come upon graceful sweep of the crescent bay the stage, and given the valley its fitting fringed with foam breaking on the yel- name Hana-lei—the Bay of Swamps, a low sand and flecked with the white sail name which has outlasted the sense of of fishing canoe or Japanese sampan ; • its significance, and runs back to some turning the other way, there are the earlier stage of the language when Hana green sunlit foothills, merging into the was the common word for bay—for we nearby Na Molokama mountains 4000 find it frequently used in Hawaiian names feet high, and scarcely more than 4000 of bays. feet away, wreathed wit,}i tropical ver- Still, for untold ages perhaps, the fin- dure, and traced with white filaments ishing process went on ; the rounding of waterfall, with wondrous play of and softening of outlines, the polishing shifting light and shadow. While at out of the tool marks, the grinding in of your feet lies the silver ribbon of the the "filler," the stippling in of sof!er little river, winding back and forth, bent tones, the veiling of the landscape with on getting in all the length possible in an ever finer web—replacing one flora such confined quarters. with another. So the work went on, So small a river, with so uncommer- until, at length, we have the finished cial a history, has naturally but a modest beauty of the modern Hanalei. story to tell as a highway. Water Nor is all this, assuredly, mere gratui- transportation appeals mainly to heavy tous assumption, mere imaginative ro- traffic, large bodies that move slowly. mance. Romance it may be, but ro- The primitive Hawaiian had no such mance founded on fact, fact that de- traffic. It was easier to carry his few mands some such story for its expres- heads of taro, or bundles of lauhala or sion. The broad, level floor of the V- wauke, across land than to propel his shaped valley, part way up on the sides, heavy dugout canoe by water. Besides, like an inverted A and the assured depth the river was so winding that you had of the silted-in cellar, below the floor, to paddle all over the valley before you these are the simple, but significant facts got anywhere ; . it was quicker to cut which must stand sponsor for the ro- across. Accordingly, we may well sup- mance, facts which, it seems to me, ad- pose, that there was never much canoe mit of no other explanation. traffic on the river, only now and then 152 THE MID -PACIFIC
some lone fisherman angling the quiet the cracking of whips and blaspheming waters for mullet or cat-fish. of drivers belaboring the straining oxen, But with the advent of the white man the treble of feminine voices and banter- came the need for a larger traffic. First ing laughter on washing day along the coffee, then silk gave promise of com- banks, and far away the musical ringing mercial importance, but went their early of the cane knives in the cutting field. way to failure. Finally sugar came to All this was new and wonderful, .and stay. A mill was built at Kuakea, mid- many simple folk came from afar to see way on the banks of the little river, and the new era at Hanalei. cane was planted in large areas up and It seems somewhat strange that Hana- down the valley. lei, destined in a special way to chronicle Now, in those early days, and much the early success of sugar was also des- more recent ones as well, the crucial tined to see its early failure. While other problem of the sugar business was trans- districts, far less favored, apparently, at portation, how to get the vast tonnage the start forged ahead and attained to a of cane, day by day, from the field to phenomenal prosperity Hanalei fell into the mill, and especially how to do it in the rear and finally, under the shadow of all kinds of weather, and over all kinds the McKinley bill, fell out altogether. So of roads. The smooth easy-going, ever- that now sugar is only a memory in ready waterway appealed mightily to the Hanalei. Rice has taken its place, and worried planter, driven to desperation by the whole broad valley is now one wide refractory oxen and decrepit carts, and waving rice field cultivated by half a miry mud-holes, all of which factors dozen small plantations of Chinese own- combined to keep his mill standing idle, ership, each with its primitive little mill, while the cane rotted, or was devoured its overshot, slow revolving water-wheel, by rats, in the fields. So the river was its cement threshing floor, and its cluster • adopted as the highway of this traffic. of whitewashed barns and "quarters". Great barges were built and launched And the barges that now operate on the on its quiet waters, and towed single or river are Chinese sampans, loaded with tandem by long strings of patient oxen, paddy and propelled by noiseless Ori- plodding along the bank, while men with entals. long poles counteracted the bias pull of To the primitive Hawaiian the problem • the cattle and kept the barges off shore. of crossings for such a peaceful river The wayward character of the little was a very simple one. Where clothing river, winding hither and yon, and never milt no figure, and every one could swim, seeming to get anywhere, this was its it was not even necessary to stick by the crowning virtue, since thus it controlled regular fording places. Shoal or deep more land, no corner of any field was far was all alike. With the advent of the away from the line of traffic. In the horse, and the more extended use of same way the manufactured sugar was clothing, the shallow spots were sought conveyed to the landing, or to the schoon- out for fords. As clothing grew finer, er in the bay, one huge barge being and bare legs gave place to shoes and housed in, and widely known and admired stockings, these crossings made way for as "The Ark." ferries. One of these, in connection with Those were palmy days along the lit- the main road was made official, with a tle river, days of life and action ; the tall scow large enough to take a vehicle, brick chimney rolling out volumes of and operated, with leisurely dignity by smoke, clouds of steam going up from a scow man, who drew your inadvertent the open evaporators, the mill whistle attention to the schedule of fares, which crying impatiently for cane, the rattle of covered every possible combination of the big spur wheels running free when vehicle, horse and dog and man,—fares the feed was light, the groan and whine which applied only to the day time, and of the rollers when the feed was heavy, rose rapidly after dark. THE MID -PACIFIC 153
The shelving bank left a considerable carrying it off to sea, and incidentally so gap between the water's edge and the filling the valley with a sense of awe for steeply beveled side of the scow, and their little river, that they felt it would for any but horses long wonted to this be tempting Providence to renew the method of embarkation, this gap was bridge. So the scow was dragged out filled with unknown terrors ; only after of the bushes, repaired, and put into much urging, and many tentative at- service again—remaining there until a tempts and failures, could they be brought few years ago, when a more daring or to cross it. And when at length the scow less experienced age built a steel bridge swung loose from the bank with a jar, on the site of the ferry. and rocked menacingly over the dark The "future" of Hanalei is bound up water, sometimes a team would be so with this little river, not as a highway, filled with terror that they would bolt nor a source of power, nor a means of bodily forward over the open end of the irrigation, considerable as these possi- scow, vehicle, driver and all. bilities are, but in the unrivalled charm of In the heyday of the sugar prosperity its scenic beauty. The century that is it was felt that the scow was too medieval gone has barely sufficed to disclose this for so progressive an age, so it was rele- charm, the century that is coming will gated to the scrap heap, and a double truss bridge with a central stone pier, proclaim it with ever increasing signifi- was built, just mauka of the mill ; and cance ; where, in the past, visitors have this for a brief period met the require= been casual and local, in the future they ments of the growing traffic. But a win- will gather in great throngs and from ter storm of unusual violence brought wide distances, so that the fame of our little river will go abroad to the ends of • down from the mountains such a roaring torrent as undermined the pier and abut- the earth as one of the choicest beauty ments, and demolished the superstructure, spots of 'the New World.
The peaceful stream that was once turbulent. 154
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• Nauru " o — '" tthhe e Pleasant Island f the Maars haall g roup is one of the atollis lands near the eqeq uator.
■ Typical Nauru Fishermen.
A Story of Old Nauru
By PHILIP A. DELAPORTE. •
HERE are still people alive who Group is called "Ascension Island." remember the Nauru of thirty or There are barges and boats belonging to T even forty years ago. The pres- different missions in these waters called ent Nauru, however, would not Saint Francis, Saint Matthew, Saint be recognized by them. It was in those Agnes, Saint Christopher and what not. days called Pleasant Island. A very If Saint Agnes is a small schooner and foolish idea seems to prevail to give the gets stuck on a reef, along comes Saint beautiful, romantic islands of the South- Christopher and helps her out of her seas English, Spanish or German names. trouble by pulling her off. The natives Why should Banaba be called "Ocean wonder why the white man introduces Island" or Kusaie, "Strong's Island," and new, and for him unpronounceable, names Nauru "Pleasant Island?" Some of the for islands and things for which he al- smaller islands of New Guinea have been ready has terms. Let us therefore be blessed with such names as Saint Paul, fair and drop "Pleasant Island" and call Saint Peter ; Ponape in the Caroline the once forgotten, but now all important,
155 156 THE MID -PACIFIC
little rock in the Mid-Pacific, Nauru, or Heathen customs are nearly a thing of more correctly "Anawaro." the past. Fourteen years ago Sunday Lying 30 miles south of the Line and was an unknown day on Nauru. Now when the bells call to prayer on the in 150° east Longitude it will be ob- Sabbath morn people come from the re- served that its position is far away from motest parts of the Island and fill the any regular tracks used by mail steamers church. So much for spiritual changes. running between America and Australia. The transformation wrought through the Fifteen years ago the sails of kerosene power of the Gospel has been marvelous. That commerce and industry follow in packets, coming from Philadelphia the path of the Gospel messenger has around the Horn on their way to Japan, been proven on Nauru. What an ex- would be seen at long intervals on the citement used to prevail in years gone horizon, but even those ships have disap- by when a little trading schooner arrived. peared. The arrival of 6000 or 7000 ton steam- ers is hardly noticed today. On Decem- When the writer first settled on Nauru ber 31, 1912, no less than eight steamers he had to wait nearly nineteen months were in port. Four or five large vessels until the first vessel, carrying home let- in port is a common occurrence. While ters, arrived. Even the American whale this article is being written four 6000- ships which called here during the latter ton steamers, two English, one German part of the Nineteenth century had given and one Australian wait their turn to Nauru then already a wide berth. Very load and to discharge. few of them touched at the island after But why such a traffic, many of the October 2, 1888—the date when Germany readers will ask. Just because billions took possession of the Marshall Group. of birds used Nauru as a depot in cen- The isolation of Nauru has, however, turies gone by. The excrements of these been beneficial to its natives. While on birds in the course of ages mingled with many other islands of Micronesia dis- the lime of the coral rock and eventually eases, introduced by whalers and others, became what is now called phosphate of wrought great havoc among the inhabi- lime. tants, Nauru suffered but little. Discovered early in the present cen- • In 1899 there resided but four traders, tury, work was started in 1906. It is all of them former sailors, and a Govern- now being shipped at a rate of nearly ment employe on Nauru. The latter had 130,000 tons annually. A staff of per- just given up trading. The natives were haps 60 whites, 50 Chinese and 600 still in their natural state. An attempt Caroline natives reside on Nauru and to Christianize them had been made early make things hum. Moorings to hold in the nineties, but the work had been 12,000 ton steamers have been laid, jet- given up again. It was virgin soil for ties, immense bins and dryers have been the missionary. When he came he met built. A miniature railway line on which with the favor of the natives and the miniature locomotives and cars run is resistance of the traders, whin shortly used to transport the precious fertilizer afterwards turned into hatred. This was from the bins to the end of the wharf, as it ought to be. Darkness and Light from whence it is taken to the ships in never agree, traders and missionaries lighters. A large plant supplies power very seldom. for the different machinery, cable way The turning point in the history of and an ice machine. A refrigerator Nauru had come. A few years after- keeps things cool and fresh for the com- wards the missionary had gathered a lit- pany's white staff. During droughts con- tle company of converts and organized a densers furnish 4000 gallons of fresh church. This little company of believers water daily. As the Pacific Ocean is grew month by month and was happy in close at hand and therefore no shortage its child-like faith. of sea water, even during a drought, THE MID- PACIFIC 157 more condensed water can be furnished, Tax paying days were then an excuse to provided the company builds more con- have a big luau. They have cut out the densers. There is talk of exporting any luau since they pay in cash. surplus of condensed water to the inter- At the time of writing, a German wire- ior of Australia—they haven't even good less telegraph company is putting up a sea water there. station. The tower, 360 feet high, will The value of phosphate exported in be a landmark for ships approaching the 1912 had an estimated value of $1,875,- island. The new line runs from Samoa 000. As the demand of the market is to Yap via Nauru and Rabaul. larger than the supply, Nauru may ex- But let me narrate my little tragedy of pect a boom. About 200 tons of copra old Nauru and the people I first knew are shipped annually in addition to the among them. phosphate which brings the value of the More than twenty years have passed exports very near the two million dollar since the following tragedy was enacted notch. Ten years ago the exports of on Pleasant Island, or, as it is now called, Nauru were valued at say $20,000—to- Nauru. Very few of the actors and eye- day at $2,000,000, which will perhaps be witnesses are alive today, but strange as tripled in a few years. So much about it may appear, the man with the flowing the transformation of Nauru wrought white beard and bloodstained hands is by those old sea birds. still among us. Tekaroa, ex-murderer, The government has built fine roads later on policeman, and still later cook to around and across the Island. A police the missionaries, is now a faithful mem- detachment of twenty New Guinea na- ber of the Protestant Church of Nauru. tives, assisted by two police dogs, under One bright morn in 1892, during one the supervision of a German -officer look of the periodical droughts, a large sized after "Darkest Nauru." The only per- canoe was observed drifting close in son ever held up by the police dogs was shore. This was quite a frequent occur- the missionary one day while mailing his rence in those days when the British and letters. The police department is inno- German governments had not yet for- cent of grafting. When the Chinese bidden their dusky proteges to venture gamble too much, or when the Caroline out on the high seas. Ocean currents run contracts laborers get unruly our "vali- swiftly in these latitudes and woe to the • ant" dusky policemen take a hand. The boat or canoe that gets into one of them. Nauruans don't need a police departient. The Gilbert natives loved to travel from Their obedience is ideal. If one is sen- one island to another, and many a family tenced to a few days of calaboose, he which had started started out to visit comes on the day appointed and begins relatives and friends on another atoll to serve his sentence. Wife, children and were never heard of again. If they were relatives go with him to the very door of fortunate the currents carried them, after the jail and supply him with the best the days of sufferings, to Nauru ; more often market affords. Often a small feast is though to the inhospitable shores of the arranged in honor of the martyr. Solomon Islands, where the possible sur- A tax of $3.75 is levied on every able- vivors became material for a cannibal bodied man and youth. The whites, in- feast. clusive of missionaries, have the privilege Tekaroa was one of the first on that of paying $10. Formerly dogs paid $1.25, memorable morning to notice the canoe. now women and dogs are free from The desire for plunder moved him to in- taxes. An ad valorem duty of 10 per duce a number of his tribe to board a cent on all imports has to be paid. The canoe with him, in order to "rescue" the people, whites and browns, strange to helpless staved creatures. When near say, are not in favor of this import duty. the drafting canoe it was recognized as They believe in free trade. Ten years one coming from the Gilbert Islands- ago the natives paid their taxes in copra. 400 miles to the eastward of Nauru. 158 THE MID -PACIFIC
Perhaps ten or fifteen men and women There was no exception to the rule on occupied the frail craft. Tekaroa dis- that eventful day in 1892. Ignorant of covered immediately that the Gilbert Isl- the crime which had been committed a anders, although destitute of food and few miles away, the natives and white water, had still a good supply of tobacco, traders spent a "merry" day on board of red shells, clothing, and fishing gear. the vessel. Gin and rum was flowing This discovery sealed the fate of the freely and no one noticed that the schoon- castaways. The Nauru natives soon had er had drifted to such an extent that the thrown the unfortunate people into the Nauru hilltops could hardly be discerned. water and then proceedeed to rifle the A dead calm had fallen. Not a ripple canoe. While they were thus engaged on the wide expanse of the Pacific could the poor Gilbert Islanders endeavored to be seen. The romantic Southern Cross get back into their canoe, but met with shone in all its splendor and beauty. The the united resistance of the Nauruans. treacherous current, however, waited for Weakened by days of starvation and its victims. thirst it was beyond their strength to "Captain, we must get ashore," said gain the shore, two miles away. Tekaroa the traders. The captain, drunk and vic- now gave the word to kill. They were ious, told them to go to a certain hot commanded not to take hold of the canoe. country if they liked. The poor natives One after the other as, fighting for dear alert to the danger they faced by going life, they touched the gunwale of the craft into the boats and canoes, ten miles off occupied by the pirates they had their shore, begged for some water. "I have hands cut off. Their pleas for mercy no water to give you, here is gin, water were in vain. It was but a short time you will get none," was the reply. The before their crippled bodies became the boats cast off and only one boat and one prey of the man-eating sharks which canoe were/ fortunate enough to gain the abound in these waters. Thus after days shore after thirty-six hours of pulling of suffering under a merciless tropical and fighting against the current. The sun in a little frail craft, when salvation other boats, its white men perhaps more was so very near, they were murdered by drunk than the rest, were picked up 'on Nauru pirates. the coast of New Guinea three weeks The murderers brought a few Gilbert later. The white men had died from ex- • Bibles ashore, which led the government posure and thirst ; the still surviving to believe that the unfortunate people Nairn men and women were killed and had been Christians. devoured. The life of only one woman "Vengeance is mine, saith the Lord." was spared. She is still in New Guinea While this tragedy was being enacted, a and tells the story of the terrible days little trading schooner hove in sight. Glad she spent in the boat and in the hands of to see other white faces, and to get news the New Guinea cannibals. It is a day from friends far away, not mentioning which will be long remembered by the the much longed-for vile gin, the several inhabitants of Nauru. white traders on Nauru had three boats Tekaroa was promptly sentenced to and several canoes manned by natives death by the Government, but afterwards and went to the schooner. It was cus- the sentence was commuted to two years tomary in those days to give the traders, of penal servitude at Jaluit in the Mar- when coming aboard a trading schooner, shall Group. He marveled at the sailors first of all sufficient rum or gin to create of the man-o-war which took him to and a buying spirit. The traders, when in from Jaluit. He considered them very this state became easy victims of un- foolish people to put sand on the decks scrupulous captains. Anything from a and then wash it off again. "If a thing case of fighting gin to a condemned can- is clean, why make it intentionally dirty non was then sold to them. The old mis- just for the sake of washing it again?" sion-house on Nauru rests on many of said he. these guns. Tekaroa had various experiences after THE MID-PACIFIC 159 his release. First he became policeman Two or three years connection with that with a salary of $7.50 a month and what church and again he backslided. Another he could steal. In 1899 he was employed term as policeman filled up the gap be- as cook by Mrs. Delaporte, wife of the tween his exit from the Roman Catholic Protestant Missionary. He now began Church and his reconversion in, 1910, going to church. As a heathen doctor he when he became a faithful member of the made an honest penny on the sly when- ever he could. In 1903 he changed his Protestant Church and does not like to "faith" and went over to the Catholics. be reminded of the good old days.
Tekaroa, ex-murderer and cook. 160 THE MID-PACIFIC In old grass houses the hikiei or raised bed extends across the one room.
Furnishing the Grass House
From the Memoirs of the Bishop Museum.
• ERE is the Hawaiian house, tutored Carib, derided by the thoughtless, plain, no ornament, seldom a is natural and reasonable. He thinks that H garden around it, none,—not an unfinished house,—unfinished until it even a trace,—of the elaborate is inhabited by articles of domestic use, carving of the Maori, nor the if not by human beings, is the chosen re- fantastic roof-work of the New Guinea treat of the devil, and the builders when or Solomon Islanders, a shelter surely they leave their work each night, place a but not yet a home, and that long distance simple wooden cross at the door and between house and home so well known window openings. The devil is easier to the Anglo-Saxon is wonderfully to keep out than to get out ! shortened here in the tropics. Yet the We have seen that the Hawaiian cut the Hawaiian recognizes the difference : the last tuft of grass on the thatch, over the empty house, however convenient, how- door-lintel and that bit of grass was sym- ever well built, has something dismal, bolic not merely of the last touch of the even uncanny, and the belief of the un- builder, but a warning to any evil-dis-
161 162 THE MID -PACIFIC
posed akua to keep out. When that tuft fineness increasing from the bottom layer, was cut and the kahuna had asked the at other times the lower ones were of blessing of the gods, the great gods, pandanus and the upper one of makaloa, the lesser gods and the whole forty thou- a fine rush of which the best and most sand gods, the owner and his family en- durable Hawaiian mats were made. On tered in with their belongings : a gooq the general coarser mat covering of the and happy family is the best talisman I floor was often placed the bed or hikiee, know of, to keep evil spirits (or a structure of mats interleaved with ex- thoughts) at a distance. tra strips of matting at the front edge, One thing will be very apparent, there and often extending the length of the was very little for exhibition or orna- one room of the sleeping house. Some- ment; everywhere utility reigned. There times this hikiee was placed on a slightly was no endeavor to harmonize the car- raised platform or kahua like an oriental pets with the wall coverings, or the fur- divan, but I believe this a comparatively niture with both. And yet that very thing modern innovation. I have never seen was done unconsciously, for the mats such a kahua in the ruins of the old that covered the stone, earthen or gravel houses that are dotted over the group. floor matched perfectly with the grass or All the family and guests slept together hala leaf lining of the walls, and the dark on this long bed, which often was more gray of the stone implements and the capacious than the famous bed of Ware, orange of the gourd containers with the and not infrequently the pet pig of the deeper colors of the umeke struck no dis- family joined the company of sleepers. cordant note. It is useless to say that if For uluna or pillows they had woven of it had no eye would have been offended smooth pandanus leaves, and stuffed with in the dimly lighted interior ; almost all other leaves, most comfortable even for the furniture was used out of doors and an European. These pillows were some- only stored within ; but whether placed times of ornamental weaving, but they • by the brookside under the trees, in the commonly were plain and of various sizes lanai, or piled up on the gray stone plat- to suit the owner or user. In the earlier form around, or at least in front of the houffs the expedient sometimes seen in house, there was not a shining tin pan or poorer houses of later times of a log or kettle, nor a vilely decorated bit of crock- bolster, extending the length of the hikiee ery (as so often in modern degenerate was no doubt common. They had also a times) to offend good taste; everything wooden pillow, but I do not know of an harmonized as commonly with the uncor- example extant, nor have I ever seen one rupted children of the simple life. in use in a native house. A stone pillow The universal out-of-door life in the was found some time ago at Kilauea, fine climate of Hawaii kept the house Kauai, a locality noted for its good stone clean and permitted the use of a floor work, and this may have resembled the covering of mats of fine texture ; much wooden one. It is cool and not so un- better these than the rushes strewn upon comfortable as might be inferred from the floors of our Anglo-Saxon ancestors. its material. In the better houses the actual floor was They also had bed clothes (kapa moe) covered with several layers of mats, of the paper made by felting the fibres of sometimes all of pandanus leaf but in the paper mulberry into large sheets, five THE MID- PACIFIC 163
of which usually formed a kuina and was needed for the simple process by were stitched together with a tape of which the fibres of bark were converted kapa at one edge, leaving the others free. into sheets of varying size and consist- The sheets were of an average size of six ency. A log of some hard wood, usually by eight feet. Four of the kuina or set of kawau or kolea wood, was cut to a of sheets were generally white or yellow, length of about six feet, hewn to a flat while the outside sheet (kilohana) was surface about three inches wide at top, colored or decorated with imprinted fig- cut away slightly at either end and hol- ures or lines. Such a kuina was quite lowed out longitudinally underneath. warm, and I have found them unbearable This anvil, lam kui kctpa or kua kapa, over my ordinary clothes when sleeping was supported on two stones. A variety on the summit of Mauna Loa (13,675 ft.) of hand clubs, some round (hohoa) for when water was freezing at my feet. the first beating, or square for the finish- The Hawaiians of the older time were ing, and a few calabashes to hold water clothed only in the malo, a strip of kapa or some mucilaginous liquid, were all the or matting perhaps nine inches wide and tools needed to make what was probably two yards long; this with the women be- called from the means used in its fabrica- came a pa'u which was about a yard wide tion Kapa=ka pa, the beaten. and of considerable length ; neither sex In olden times the kapa beating was wore night clothes. Both sexes, how- done in one of the six houses (hale kua) ever, used in cold weather a 'shawl of of a well-to-do Hawaiian, but in later times I have usually seen the old women • kapa called kihei. Some authors have stated that the Hawaiians wrapped them- establish their kua kuku under some tree selves in the kapa moe in sleeping, and I near a brook or kalo patch. The patterns have seen them go to the door of their on the beaters were various and these house on a chilly night in the mountain determined the "wate‘r mark" on the region wrapped in it as a white man kapa. These beaters are perhaps the might use a blanket, but while it is most common Hawaiian article in mu- • quite probable that they had individual seums, and they must have been very peculiarities in the matter, those I Piave abundant, as after their original use had consulted have generally slept with the become obsolete, scores were used up in kapa moe over them in the usual manner trying to reduce to fibre the foreigner's of bed coverings. Precisely in this way clothing in their primitive process of those who slept the last sleep were cov- washing by beating the wet fabrics on a ered by a sheet of black kapa, and one flat stone. recalls the message sent by the last king As there were no mosquitoes on the of Kauai to the conquering Kamehameha, Hawaiian Islands before 1827, the old "Wait until the black kapa covers me natives had no need of mosquito nettings and my kingdom shall be yours." I can- so indispensible in the southern islands of not here follow up the manufacture. of the Pacific. kapa, but the chief implements used in It would be unfair to leave out the this most important work were a part of light for while the old Hawaiians often the furniture of every important house, went to bed with the chickens, they did and must be briefly described here. not like the dark more than other Poly- No loom nor complicated machinery nesians, indeed than children of any race. 164 THE MID -PACIFIC
In the cooler parts of the country the traveling, when the alii always, if pos- fireplace was fed with slow-burning fuel sible, had their attendants carry all the for a dim glow, for which the mamane requirements for making poi, or if for (Sophora chrysophylla), a tree common home use of sufficient size to serve two on the uplands, was most fit. Torches persons pounding, one at either end and (lamaku) were made by stringing the with his own portion of kalo. meats of roasted kukuinuts (Aleurites As the stone pounder struck the elastic moluccoma) on the midrib of a coconut mass of poi and not the trough, this leaflet and binding a number of these lasted through several generations of poi strings with dry banana leaves into a makers. At present most of the poi con- cylinder some six inches in diameter, and sumed in Honolulu is made by the in- from two to four feet long. This lamaku dustrious Chinese or at the poi factory produced a bright light, convenient for a where modern machinery and methods night-time dance or revel, but it gave out are used in Kalihi. too much smoke to be tolerated in the ill- Although in the enumeration of the ventilated houses, although the glow was houses of an Hawaiian alii's establish- pleasant through the open door. The ment no mention was made of carriage usual evening light for the interior was house or barn, yet they all kept a car- the stone lamp fed with kukui oil and riage, though of the most primitive form. supplied with one or more wicks of twist- In war the pololu, a long stick of kauila ed strip of kapa, or with the older and wood, formed the carriage of the com- simpler candle of these same nuts first missary department and went to battle, roasted and shelled and then strung as in the ends resting on the shoulders of two the torch but in shorter lengths. Such men while the length was hung with candles it was the duty of the young neat bundles of hard poi (paiai) wrap- members of the family to care for, and ped in ki leaves. If the chief fell in bat- they were "snuffed" by inverting the tle his retainers endeavored to save his • candle until the next nut was alight and body and carry it home slung by the then knocking off the embers of the spent wrists and ankles to this pololu. If he nut. The odor was strong, resembling returned triumphant the pololu, which that of roasting peanuts, and care had to was often more than five yards long, was be taken that the half extinguished coal set up in front of his house as in later did not set the mat carpet afire. days a flag staff would be planted. The lamps were of many forms, not To carry the gourds, umekes and other very portable but durable beyond most similar burdens poles were used, made of modern lamps. some tough wood, slightly bent and more Although the nut season was a long or less notched at the ends. In Webber's one there were times when the supply picture of the newly discovered village at must have failed these improvident chil- the mouth of the Waimea river on Kauai, dren of nature, and the fat of a pig or a two natives are seen carrying a live pig dog served as substitute. slung on a straight pole resting on their These poi troughs (papa kui poi) shoulders, and in the old songs there are were hewn from some tough wood, as references to this bearing stick genera- ohia (Metrosideros polymorpha), and are tions before Cook's visit. The section of either of small size for convenience in an auamo was generally, if not always, THE MID-PACIFIC 165
circular, and not well fitted to rest easily two long bundles of grass in such a way on the bare shoulder ; hence a porter was as to seem of considerable bulk, but often known by the callus formed at the point containing but little grass. These he of contact. These bearing sticks were transfixed with his pointed pole and also known as aumaka or mamaka. The brought into market. Probably none of Hawaiian sometimes used a straight the present generation of Hawaiians ever round pole pointed at both ends for one especial purpose,—to meet the demands saw these bundles, but I think I remem- of foreigners for hay, an article not im- ber one native who brought me grass for ported in the period previous to 1865. my horse in Honolulu, using a genuine The native hay dealer skilfully packed China stick.
Household gods of old Hawaii.
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C Char •E he L.T. t 0 0.) from CO') ke O iy La - og llfr Bu East Vidette from Bullfrog Lake. A Sierra Club Outing By MARION RANDALL PARSONS. • T half past two on the morning of scattered and where the few streams ran July first our special train drew sluggish and warm. Higher and higher A up at Lemon Cove, a fruit grow- we climbed, among hot, chaparral-clad ing community on the eastern hills till towards noon the pines began to border of the San Joaquin Valley. Out appear. We stopped for lunch at Juanita of the Pullmans we tumbled, but half Ranch, a well-kept farmstead lying in awake and only hastily shaken into the broad meadows where some superb oaks unfamiliar camp garb, some of us still grew ; and then it was forward again, fumbling with neckties and belt fasten- still climbing. Now we were in the true ings as we ran. We stumbled through pine belt of the Sierra. Giant yellow and the darkness to store our suitcases in the sugar pines were mingled with silver firs baggage room, found places in the wait- and libocedrus, and underneath grew a ing stages, and then we were off and the thick carpet of bear clover whose pungent outing had fairly begun. odor, mingled with the aromatic breath The drive through the valley by moon- of the sun-heated pines, brought many a light was delightful. Dawn found us former forest day vividly to mind. Here climbing among parched brown hills a few belated flowers were blooming— where oaks and sycamores were sparcely pink gilias, godetia, prettily called "Fare- 167 168 THE MID -PACIFIC well to Spring," and long-stemmed, deli- A short hour's walk in the morning cate Mariposa tulips growing in wonder- brought us to the brink of the Kings ful profusion in the grassy open spaces. River Canyon, one of the huge, glacier- Then as the afternoon waned we en- carved canyons of the Sierra, of struc- tered the sequoia forest. Walking ahead ture similar to that of the Yosemite of the toiling stages and their accompany- Valley, Hetch Hetchy, or the Kern. Some ing cloud of dust, one could sense the of us climbed the few hundred feet to wonderful silence and peace and serene Lookout Point, gaining thereby a splen- calm of these ancient trees, oldest of liv- did view of the great mountains to the ing things on our globe, that were stand- north and east that we were later to ing here in the full glory of their prime climb. The rest of us hastened down when Pan was still worshipped on earth. the 3000-foot drop to the canyon floor. The afternoon winds that stir the grasses Every now and then, between the spread- and flowers to sudden merry confusion ing arms of the sugar pines, we glimpsed pass unnoticed by their majestic crowns; the distant ranges of snowy mountains. fires that exterminate the lesser forests Later, when the growing canyon walls leave the sequoias unharmed. The marks shut out the far horizon, we looked down of many a conflict with this dread de- on the valley floor where the pigmy trees stroyer scar their massive boles, it is true ; dotted the meadows in tiny splotches of but so seldom does forest fire or lightning dark green and the river wound among fell one of these noble trees, that we, them a narrow ribbon of silver. Down whose lives are of such brief span, think- to the river at last—how our knees did ing of the cycles that have passed them ache ! A long descent is worse than a by, may almost class them among the im- climb when muscles are soft with the mortals. winter idling. The swift, strong river Just beyond the sequoia forest, at an looked mild mannered enough to those of altitude of about 7000 feet, lay Quail us who remembered it in surging flood Flat, the camp for the night. There four years ago. The water was indeed was little at first glance to recommend uncommonly low and the season very far it beyond the solemn welcome of Charley advanced. But the fishermen smiled an Tuck, the incomparable Chinaman who anticipatory smile and were happy. • has been our chef on every outing, and Five miles above the point where the the ingratiating grins of his five heathen trail enters the canyon permanent camp assistants, tenderfeet all, for Charley was established under the Grand Sentinel Tuck brooks no rivals and never en- in a grove of libocedrus and yellow and gages a popular assistant the second sugar pines. Here four days passed un- time. Dunnage bags were quickly un- eventfully, but happily. Fishing parties packed, dinner was despatched, and soon rambled up stream to Mist Falls or down we were ready for the first night under stream to Roaring River where, in the the stars. shadow of cliffs half a mile high, they Tramping began the next day. A rise lunched most luxuriantly on rainbow of a few hundred feet took us out of the trout. zone of the pines into a red fir forest, But to most of the one hundred and then through a long stretch of tamarack- seventy people there assembled perman- pines where a stream ran brightly be- ent camp meant little more than a head- tween grassy banks, till the trail plunged down hill into the canyon of Boulder quarters, where between side trips clean Creek. Here many of us lunched and clothing could occasionally be procured, then it was upward again, among mead- or boots be cobbled—a place of fabulous ows where larkspur and daisies were luxury where bread and meat were con- blooming, to Horse Corral Meadow sumed daily and where the construction where a beautiful camp was made of one's personal camp was a serious among the Jeffrey pines. matter involving the collection of pine THE MID- PACIFIC 169 needles or fir boughs instead of that hasty camp held an amusing flavor of those ceremony of casting down one's sleeping early times, pleasant to remember now. bag on the least precipitous, least bould- The packtrain had had a hard journey— ery spot in sight so characteristic of the heavily laden with provisions for a week more nomadic life of the side trips. and with twenty pounds per head of per- So, only waiting for the Los Angeles sonal dunnage for a party of one hun- division to reach camp, nearly seven- dred and fifty, it had traveled that day eights of the entire party set forth' for a sixteen uphill miles over a very rough week's sojourn in the higl- country in the trail gaining more than 5,000 feet in alti- vicinity of Bullfrog Lake. tude. One division, that including in its About two miles above the Grand Sen- packs the commissary kettles, was some- tinel the Kings River branches. To the what behind the rest. The stoves were north lies Paradise Valley and the upper set up, fires lighted in them, provisions waters of the Kings, while eastward lies set forth ready for cooking, but still no Bubbs Creek Canyon and the main travel- kettles were forthcoming. The imper- ed trail to Bullfrog and Kearsarge Pass, turbale "Fryer" Tuck went calmly about one of the oldest trails in the region. his preparations, directed the broiling of Half way up Bubbs Canyon, at the base the plentiful supply of trout that had of the massive pile of sculptured granite been brought in, and displayed no anxiety known as the West Vidette, the stream about the ultimate outcome. Not so the again forks. The right branch, East hungry Sierrans, notably the tenderfeet, Creek, leads to the base of Mount Brew- who had no data concerning the infalli- er; our trail still followed Bubbs Creek bility of the packtrain and who were eastward. Passing the northern flank of visibly perturbed. One by one, with the West Vidette and that playground specious offers of assistance, they came • for the water ouzel, Bubbs Falls, we behind the dead line dividing kitchen came to Vidette Meadows where we left from dining room only to be ignomin- the main trail to establish camp half a iously expelled. Longingly they lingered mile up stream in an open forest between near the bread slicers and the butterers the Kearsarge Pinnacles and the pyramid- thereof ; greedily they watched the siz- like East Vidette. zling trout. At last they secured plate Timberline in the southern Sierra and cup and sat down in the immediate reaches an altitude of 11,000 ft. and at vicinity of the kitchen to await develop- 10,000 ft. it is comfortable enough though ments. Meanwhile the delayed division the nights are apt to be frosty. As•no had unostentatiously come in. The tents need be carried the problem of kettles were filled and set on the stoves shifting camp is much more easily solved and before the hungriest tenderfoot had than in the rainier northern mountains, dreamed of expecting it, hot soup, rice and an hour's work suffices to make camp and tomatoes were ready to be served. habitable. The transportation question, Then indeed, not with their wonted dig- long a source of infinite annoyance and nity, not like real gentlefolk did they discomfort, has at last been settled for us await the serving. Scrambling to their by the good services of a most competent feet and emitting loud cries of joy, they head packer who has brought his train of ran for places in line and gloated visibly sixty animals and his corps of men to the over their filled plates. highest degree of efficiency. This prompt The most notable event of our stay at service of the packtrain, while adding Vidette Camp was the attempt to get much to the comfort of us Sierrans, takes pack animals and fish cans over the Kings something from that picturesque element Kern Divide by means of a pass between of uncertainty that lent so much charm Junction Peak and Mount Stanford. A to the after recollections of our early out- group of knapsackers planned to cross ings. this pass afoot, climb Mount Whitney However, the first night at the Vidette (14,501 ft.) and return by way of Har- 170 THE MID -PACIFIC rison Pass and Mount Brewer. The plan capes out of their dunnage bags ; some ' was to take along a couple of pack ani- folded newspaper shawls about their mals and try to transplant some of the shoulders ; others made umbrellas of rath- famous golden trout from Whitney Creek er restricted area but unlimited water- to the Kings watershed. Unfortunately shedding capacity (down the back of the the attempt had to be abandoned as the neck) out of tin basins and baking pans ; southern side of the pass was found to be and one fair lady who was not altogether too difficult. So the animals were sent enamoured of camp life made an anomal- back and the knapsackers pursued their ous picture of misery wrapped in an oil- way alone. silk bed-cover of vivid and giddy yellow. The rest of us found plenty to occupy But the star, perhaps ,was the staid Eng- our attention for a week. Ascents of lishman who wore his collapsible bucket Universtiy Peak (13,588 ft.), Rixford on his head and shrouded his shoulders (12,856), Gould (13,001), Keith, (13,- in a capacious bath towel. 990) and Stanford (13,983), trips to It was uncomfortable of course, but not the Kearsarge Pass, to Charlotte and too much so for us to make merry over Bullfrog Lakes, to Center Basin and the it nor to enjoy its picturesqueness—the beautiful group of lakes lying between dozen campfires glowing among the trees, the West and East Videttes were made by each one of which was the center of a many parties, and the latter peak was conquered by two young men who, find- lighthearted, laughing group of moun- ing no records on its summit, could claim taineers, improvising verses and songs the honor of a first ascent. fitted for the occasion. There was a sup- per party even, where barbecued ham was On breaking camp at Vidette Meadows consumed between songs and story. And a party of about fifty journeyed up East then the stars shone out and we could Creek and made the ascent of Mount go to rest. Brewer (13,577 ft.), a mountain com- manding one of the finest views in the After a day's delay, during which the Sierra as it stands somewhat away from weather fulfilled all expectations and the main summit crest. Several other obligingly cleared, the majority of the parties, about twenty people in all, knap- party started up Woods Creek for Rae sacked across country, over Glenn Pass, Lake. • to Rae Lake, making camp there for No spot in all the Sierra can surpass several days before joining their com- Rae Lake. It lies close under a circle of panions in Paradise Valley. high, beautifully sculptured, wonderfully The main party returned to the Sen- colored mountains, a long, narrow lake, tinel camp; remained but a day, and then divided midway by a promontory where started out again, up the Kings to its twisted, storm-beaten pines grow among junction with Woods Creek in Paradise the rocks. Northward the mountain Valley. Heer a camp was established walls stand apart revealing the canyon for another week. Goat Mountain was of Woods Creek and the distant peaks climbed (12,203 ft.) and Arrow Peak beyond, all watched over by that rugged (12,927) and then calamity overtook us, guardian of the lake, Fin Dome. Between for it rained, not the brief afternoon the tiny islands that dot the irridescent thunder shower that one expects to en- surface of the water sparkling ripples counter once at least during the outing, play, shivering the images of the painted but an outrageous, unheard of downpour mountains and chasing the shadows of that lasted from eleven in the morning the passing clouds, those glorious troops until nine at night. Motley, indeed was of luminous cumuli that daily journey the wear that day for with a twenty across the paths of the sky. pound limit on baggage ingenuity was Another charm, too, Rae Lake boasts hard pressed to find the wherewithal to —its trout are of phenomenal size and keep dry. Some improvised hooded abundance, and nowhere else is there THE MID -PACIFIC 171 such a paradise for fishermen. Two a previous attempt. Then we started beautiful days and two moonlight nights back again, down past the domes and quickly passed, days spent in fishing spires of the Woods Creek Canyon, past along the deeply indented lake shore and its meadows, shoulder high with colum- in exploring the nearby Sixty Lake Basin. bine, monkshood and tiger lilies, through Three men climbed Fin Dome, presum- Paradise Valley and past Mist Falls to ably a first ascent as no records exist of the Sentinel camp again. Mt. Standford and Junction Peak, Showing the Pass. 172 THE MID-PACIFIC ■ IN In South Australia the Government is doing much to facilitate travel for the tourist and to make travel easy for the settler and resident. There are magnificent roads through the mountain regions, as may be seen in the picture. The ferry at Taree on Manning River. • Australia for the Tourist By ATLEE HUNT. I "Delightful land in wildness e'en benigh Every visitor finds some feature of The glorious past is ours, the future absorbing interest in Australia. thine! A country settled but 125 years ago, As in a cradled Hercules we trace of such vast extent whose bounteous re- • The lines of Empire in thine infant sources almost overreach the confines of face." • definite apprehension, a country of pic- turesque landscapes, enjoying the health- 4 4 E live not on what we have," iest climate in the world, and rich in says one, "but in what we beautiful resorts for health, recreation remember and what we and sport,—a country too where the hope." youngest of the Nations, a Nation "in Australia is too young to have a the gristle," is tracing out its destiny, memory. In Australia there are as yet holds many characteristics which appeal "No strange enchanments of the past, to the widest divergence of tastes and in- And memories of the Days of Old." terests,—to every stranger whatever his Little more than a century measures mission. its years of settlement, civilization and So to the Tourist as Tourist or mere development. Its life is based on mag- sightseer, Australia has much to show, nificent hopes in a glorious future. It is and in a wider sense, the Tourist as Australia's youth, its very newness World Traveller and student of social which appeals to the imagination. The and political problems, may learn much peculiar and unique characteristics of its from a sojourn in Australia. "want of age" give it a decided and dis- The truth is all that need be told. It tinct individuality. is that which convinces. It will not be 173 174 THE MID -PACIFIC said that Australia possesses even one sunny days of genial warmth. It is the outstanding scenic feature of such colos- ideal Tourist's climate. Its atmosphere sal gradeur or transcendental beauty as is of such remarkable clarity that one's to call for extravagant superlatives of range and clearness of vision are inten- description or that mocks Creation for sified, distances seem greater, and the a parallel. But in her scenery there is brilliant sunlight strengthens the colour- something unique and wonderfully much ings of landscape and seascape. In these for the eye and mind to delight in. It halcyon climes the seasons are hardly certainly is a favoured country. Its more than names ; they merge almost varied topography accounts for a wide imperceptibly into one another. There diversity of magnificent scenery. are no violent contrasts of temperature Australia has mountain ranges, some and except in a few isolated parts of of them of stupendous proportions, giv- the mountain regions, snow never falls. ing a meaning to grandeur, and all of The only inclement weather is wet them sublimely beautiful, but it has no weather. Australia is an eternal land Himalayas or Andes or Apennines ; it of out o' doors. One may ramble out has considerable rivers flowing by rocky all day and every day in the careless wilds and forest close and crystal freedom of perfect weather. The in- streams of seductive charm, but you habitants exhibit an exuberance of spirit vainly look for a Mississippi, Rhine or and a love of pleasure and amusement Hudson ; the most gigantic of its boom- which has been misinterpreted as levity ing waterfalls pays obeisance to Ni- and been wrongly pointed to as an agara ; it has many picturesque lacustrine imperfection in the national character. districts assuming the similitude of Kil- In such a climatic environment, people larney or the Trossachs, but less widely exult frankly. It is natural. One known, and in every State are extensive might as well expect pineapples to grow systems of Limestone Caves of bewilder- in Greenland as the Australian to be ing immensity and, surpassing beauty, phlegmatic. The virility of the Aus- entitled to rank among the most marvel- tralian and his pre-eminence in out- lous natural phenomena in the world. door sports are the natural outcome But why make comparisons ? Australia of the salubrity of his climate and the is Australia, with a distinct and striking high standard of living that such con- • individuality. Its people, geography, ditions make possible. topography, climate, fauna and flora and Apart altogether from its sylvan general characteristics are decidedly in- beauties, and the salubrity of its climate, dividual. Australia is, from the strangeness of Australia then does not flaunt any the forms of its animal and vegetable single showpiece, any sole magnetic at- life, one of the most interesting of coun- traction, which every Tourist must make tries. Cut off by the ocean from the his Mecca—and after the pilgrimage the rest of the world for untold centuries--- deluge. It has numberless resorts by for though the last to be developed, ocean and harbour, mountain and valley, Australia is geologically the oldest coun- by lake, river and cave. The lover of try---the vegetation of the Island Conti- nature beauties finds in Australia an en- nent has developed from the more pri- chanting strangeness, scenes which abide mitive forms, while its animals long in the memory ; climates which breathe since extinct elsewhere, are relics of an health and revivification ; to the sports- man it offers a variety of occupations. age when the earth was younger. These are more particularly dealt with Innumerable ages before the original later under the different States. deeds were done out of which the my- In Australia, the sun habitually shines. thologies of India, Persia, Egypt, Greece The normal conditions throughout the and Scandinavia were evolved, the whole year are bright blue skies and boundless eucalyptus waved, the kang- THE MID -PACIFIC 175 aroo, the wallaby, the bandicoot, the supials. This order includes but two phalanger, the ant-eater, the dingo, the —the platypus and the echinda or spiny flying fox, emu, and parrot flourished, ant- eater. The platypus is one of the the hills and dales far and near ringing queerest of animals, and represents the all the while the merry notes of the lowest and in point of time, the most laughing jackass throughout Australia. ancient type of mammalian life. It in- Compared with the antiquity of Aus- habits the rivers of the eastern coast tralia, its indigenous animals and its and Tasmania. A four-legged creature vegetation, other countries of the world with webbed feet,. of aquatic habits, ---old as may be their geological form- having the bill of a duck and a furry ations and remote their prehistoric evo- coat, and laying small shell-less eggs, it lutino---are but of yesterday. Anoma- combines certain attributes of bird, fish lous though it may appear, in passing and reptile. The echidna has a narrow from England to America, the traveller rounded beak, and a. long tongue cov- exchanges "an old country" for one ered with a viscid secretion which is a very much older, but when he reaches very effective instrument for the cap- Australia, he treads the soil of a conti- ture of the ants on which it lives. It nent incalculably the senior of both. lays eggs which are placed in its pouch, The most striking characteristic of the where they are carried about till the Australian flora and fauna is its distinct- young are hatched. iveness from that of any other country, Birds show the same characteristics and is evinced as much by the peculiarity that the mammals do. Deficiencies as of its plants and animals as by the ab- well as the presence of peculiar forms sence of others which are widely spread serve to distinguish Australian birds over the remainder of the earth's from those of other countries. Aus- • surface. tralia has the largest and the smallest The native fauna consists almost birds. But few Australian birds are entirely of different varieties of queer singers, but many of them are brilliantly marsupials, which carry their young plumaged. They are represented by in a pouch, and ranging in size from the the swift running emu and cassowary, "old man" Kangaroo of the plains, which are of the ostrich type with standing taller than a man, to the dimi- wings very much too small for flight, the nutive bandicoot and muskrat, but a few native companion resembling the stork, inches long, and including wallabies, the lyre bird, with a peculiar tail shaped wombats, opossums or phalangers, da- like the ancient musical instrument, and tive bears, native cats, and the Tasma- which possesses wonderful mimetic nian tigers. In a journal of Dampier, powers. The comedian of the Australian the explorer, dated 1699, we read his bush is the Kookooburra, or laughing description of the kangaroo, of which jackass, so called from his extraordinary he probably had seen only the smaller mocking cachinnations. This convivial varieties. He calls it a "sort of racoon, bird is very useful, being the inveterate "a strange creature which advanced by enemy of small reptiles. Another fami- "great .bounds or leaps instead of walk- liar member of the feathered fraternity "ing, using only its hind legs, and of the bush is the owl-like mopoke, or "covering twelve or fifteen feet at a "more-pork" as it is commonly called "time." from the sound of its monotonous noc- Australia has also distinct species turnal hoot. There are besides, the Bird of bats or flying foxes, seals and por- of Paradise of Papua, black swans, cock- cupines. The most peculiar of the native atoos, bower birds, parrakeets, the animals are the egg-laying mammals, piping crow, and endless varieties of which though possessed of a pouch and pigeons and gorgeous parrots. "marsupial" bones, are not in the or- In every way Australia is a scenic dinary sense of the term, allied to mar- poem to the visitor who has time to 176 THE MID- PACIFIC read the great volume of nature with the finest prospects are to be commanded eyes that see and observe. of the fruitful plains beneath the hills, South Australia with its superb climate midway between you and the sea-bounded and numerous pleasure resorts offers to horizon. The view from Mount Lofty tourists and others exceptional oppor- looking down upon Adelaide, the plains tunities for spending a thoroughly en- and the sea coast is a delightful varied joyable holiday. one. The trees in and around the cap- The capital city, Adelaide, with its ital lend a special charm to the picture wide streets, fine public and private of urban beauty lying below you. A buildings, reserves and squares radiant city cannot be handsome without trees. with gorgeous flowers, and extensive It is in this respect where Adelaide belt of parklands, has been the subject `catches the eye' more than either Mel- of high encomiums from visitors from bourne or Sydney. Richly cultivated all parts of the globe. It has one of the fields, gardens, orchards and vineyards most up-to-date electric tramway systems lie on every hand around Adelaide and in the world, and within half an hour's give you the impression of a country as journey by train or tram are numerous fruitful as it is pleasant to look upon. fashionable watering places, with wide With a sky as cloudless as I ever saw stretches of white sand and exceptional above the Bay of Naples, together with bathing and boating facilities. Of even- the combined attractions of sea and city ing amusements there is an immense and plain, I have seldom gazed upon a variety, and the visitor will find himself more comforting panorama of landscape surrounded by every modern comfort views, combined with the evidence of and convenience. potential prosperity all round than from From the Mount Lofty Ranges which the top of Mount Lofty." practically encircle and are within a few Further from the capital but connected miles of Adelaide some glorious views by rail are many other fertile districts of the city and plains with St. Vincent's and seaside resorts which for beauty of Gulf stretching in the background like a scenery and natural wonders are not to ribbon of shining silver, are obtained. be excelled in any part of the Common- There are also to be found enchanting wealth. In the south-east, a district fern-clad dells and secluded bowers, well which by reason of its fertility, loveli- kept orchards, the trees of which are ness and natural phenomena attracts laden with every kind of fruit in sea- visitors from all parts of the world, is son, gardens filled with roses, camelias, situated Mount Gambier with its wond- dahlias, lilacs, begonias and a host of rous crater lakes, many curious caves other varieties of flowers—the fragrance and English scenery. The Blue Lake, from which fills the air. Writing of the the most important of the group, is trip to Mount Lofty, the late Michael nearly a mile across from east to west. Davitt says : "Full as Australasia is of It is surrounded by rocky banks vary- the choicest work of Nature's handicraft ing from 200 feet to 300 feet in height in scenery, the visitor to Mount Lofty, and the water can only be approached if he has an eye and a soul that can at two points by prepared paths. The attune themselves to the beautiful in district of Mount Gambier is noted for landscape and sea view, will never for- the excellence of its roads, and within get or regret, such an experience. Right easy driving distance of the town are and left of the zig-zag road on to the many places of interest which will well top of the range you pass creep and ver- repay a visit. Fishing in both sea and dant valleys that remind you of the river may be indulged in to the heart's greenest of Wicklow's vales. Vineyards content, and game of all kinds is plenti- and fruit gardens are seen on every ful. The Glenelg River, a beautiful hand with pretty villas and cosy looking stream 24 miles from Mt. Gambier liter- cottages perched on places from whence ally teems with perch, salmon, bream, THE MID-PACIFIC 177 and trout; and duck and other wild fowl There are many other places in the abound in large quantities. In the State, such as the various irrigation set- South East, also, are the world-famed tlements on the River Murray, which Naracoorte Caves, with their wealth of will well repay an extended visit ; par- stalactites and stalagmites, which for ticulars of these can be obtained on ap- beauty of form, variety of colour and plication to the Intelligence and Tourist transparency can hardly be excelled. Bureaus Adelaide. After a visit to these caves the Rev. J. Throughout the year the Bureau con- E. T. Woods, F.R.G.S., said 'In point ducts motor excursions to places of in- of magnitude and splendour, and in a terest in the Mount Lofty Ranges and scientific view, they _do not yield in im- extended tours to pleasure resorts fur- portance to the Adelsby Caves, the caves ther afield. _During the holiday season in the Peak of Derbyshire, the Guacharo increased facilities in this direction are Caves, and those in New South Wales provided and special excursion fares pre- and Tasmania." No pen, however vail on the railways. graphic, could do justice to the natural Those, therefore, who decide to spend splendours they contain and they must their vacation in South Australia will be seen to be fully appreciated. Ewen find placed at their disposal by the in the middle of summer delightfully Bureau every facility for sight seeing cool and pleasant weather is usually ex- and generally for having a real good perienced in the South East. time. The road from the Government accommodation house to Jenolan Caves. 178 THE MID-PACIFIC • • se. hou tone ld s f. o he t is l, leve sea bove a les i m two ter, a cr • 's la ka lea f Ha o it m sum he t On • ■ In the crater of Haleakala. Through Haleakala Afoot By SA1V1, R. DOWDLE. s URING the Christmas vacation it" we were glad of the chance to have a of 1900, two school teachers of hot meal, sit in front of a cheerful fire, D Makawao wished to do some- and to sleep in comfortable beds. thing unusual for amusement, At two o'clock in the morning we were and decided to take a trip on foot through awakened by the bur-r-r-r of the alarm the crater of Haleakala. We will call clock. Getting a hasty breakfast and ad- these teachers by the names of Kewili justing packs for saddles we were soon and Kamuela, the latter being myself. ready to start. After all preparations were made, we It was bitterly cold, and Kamuela, who put the packs on our horses, and ac- was dressed for the tropics, felt the need companied by a Japanese servant, started of more clothing. He took a barley sack, up the mountain for Olinda where the slit holes in it for his head and arms, and first night was to be spent. slipped it over his head. Although it did We expected to sleep in the stable, but not fit very well it helped to keep him through the kindness of Mr. H. A. Bald- warm. win, were allowed to sleep in the house. A short distance above Olinda at the In spite of our intentions of "roughing elevation of about a thousand feet, a stop 179 180 THE MID- PACIFIC was made in a gulch to get water. Great the same spot we knew that the trail was our surprise to find the water frozen. must be retraced. The ground was frozen hard and gave a We made a vain search for water, then metallic ring under the horses' hoofs. adjusted our packs, and taking another Up we went in the dark, stopping look at the map, started over a very bad above Puu-niniau to fill our canteens and lava flow. We stumbled over jagged as make a fire to warm our numb toes. for half an hour, and fortunately found Then we headed for Koolau Gap, arriv- the right trail. We now stopped to rest. ing at the edge in time to see the sunrise. Our plan was to walk half an hour, rest The crater was clear of clouds, and five minutes, take a pull at the canteen we were able to get a perfect view of the and proceed. But the five minutes' rest grand spectacle below us. It was all lost lengthened to ten, and twelve, while the on Kewiki who thought more of shooting amount of water we drank was astonish- goats than of viewing a sunrise. He ing. Kewiki's thirst was particularly hastened up to Haleman about half a great. mile away, and disappeared. About noon we stopped to rest under a Soon shots were heard echoing thru- small mamani tree in a little ravine. We out the crater six or seven times. After had hardly removed our packs when we an almost endless time, Kewiki appeared heard the yelp of a dog not far away. carrying—what do you suppose—a goat ? Springing up and grasping rifle and re- No. A silversword! He had brought volver, we hurried in the direction of the it down from the pali by shooting it off - sound, and saw nothing but the track of at the roots. I have his word, though, two dogs. We followed this track that he left the body of an old goat be- through the black sand for miles, and hind him in an inaccessible place. Doubt- came to Kamehameha's camp which less the goat died of old age. covers an immense area. The camp is We went back to Leileiwi, where we marked by a great many piles of stone. had left our horses and packs, and made Here we found a number of throwing a hasty breakfast, washing it down with stones. water from dirty icy crystals scraped The trail soon turned to the left and from the ground. We then gave atten- brought us to Pa-puaa-o-Pele (Pele's • tion to our packs. Each carried canteens pig-pen) a sort of a pocket between two and a small supply of provisions, consist- or three cinder cones. These cones were ing of canned goods, hard tack, coffee, nearly every color of the rainbow ; their chocolate and condensed milk. This sup- sides were covered with silverswords, a ply was wrapped in a cotton saddle- plant , which only grows on the highest blanket and a rain-coat. mountains of Hawaii. Kewiki shouldered a rifle, while Ka- We stopped for lunch at the "Bottom- muela carried the camera, a revolver and less Pit," a sort of well about fifteen feet a copy of "As You Like It." in diameter, out of which lava once After a brief study of the map, and a issued. consultation about the direction, we start- After a very brief rest we hurried on, ed down the side of the crater, leaving for we wished to get to the other side of our horses to be returned to Makawao. the crater in time to make a camp, find After sliding, scrambling, rolling, and water, and gather a supply of wood be- carefully dodging stones which we fore dark. started from the loose earth, we at last By failing to keep along the left wall reached the floor of the crater. We of the crater we got into the midst of a glanced back at the trail by which we had very rough lava flow, the worst in the descended. It looked as steep as the crater. It had the appearance of a very side of a house, and our wonder was how new flow. We lost an hour struggling we ever got down. But a greater won- over it, and at last got near the same der filled our minds a week later, when at place from which we started. Luckily THE MID -PACIFIC 181 we soon found a trail which led us into a were fortunate enough to find twenty little sand-covered ditch between two gallons in a little bowl in a rock. To be lava flows. It seeems strange that these sure there were angle worms and a dead two streams could have flowed parallel mynah bird in it, but we did not worry for two or three miles not twelve feet about that. We marked the place with apart, and never have joined. a heap of stones for the benefit of other We tramped along more like machines campers. We explored the interior of a than men, for we were tired with the lava cone, a cave, a bubble and a tunnel struggle among as furrows. A little be- —all results of the same flow. All day fore sunset we came upon a flat, grassy the ground was frozen hard, and the plain; at the left was a big grove of dead weeds showed how sharp the frost trees, at the back an enormous pali, had been. We took enough exercise to while the right side sloped into the remove all stiffness and soreness from Kaupo Gap. In the middle of the plain our limbs. In the evening "As You Like a herd of cattle were grazing. It was all It" was brought out and read by moon- very peaceful and beautiful. light. Arriving at the woods we got rid of The next day we climbed the pali back our baggage as quickly as possible, and of the camp. Looking at it from below while Kewiki went in search of water, it seemed inaccessible, but by using our Kamuela made a camp, cut ferns for a hands as well as feet, we finally reached bed, gathered wood, and made a roaring the top about 1500 feet above the floor fire. of the crater, and found ourselves on a Kewiki soon returned with his two- hog-back separating the crater from quart canteen filled with water which he Kipahulu valley. It was possible to had found in little holes in the rocks. straddle the ridge with one foot toward He said there was enough to last a day or • the crater, and the other toward the val- two, but more might be found. That ley. We felt as unsafe on that ridge as meant we would not have to hurry down we would walking on a six-inch plank to Kaupo the next day. After a good above Niagara. supper. we forgot all our troubles. With At the back and top of the beautiful a comfortable camp, perfect weather, a Kipahulu valley could be seen little lake glorious moon, and a roaring fire we Wainapanapa, shining in the sun. were as happy as larks. The bleating goats near at hand drove When bed-time came Kamuela tried to all thoughts of beauty from our minds, sleep with his head in a hole, but sion and hurrying along the goat-path we gave that up. He wanted to use Kewiki's waited for them. As they appeared a camera for a pillow, but Kewiki ob- volley surprised them, but did them no jected; then he tried to rest with his great harm. They took a lower path head on a small milk pan, but in vain. and tried to get around. Again we fired In fact he was too tired to sleep. Ke- into the flock with rifle and revolver. wiki no sooner lay down than he was One old goat was killed and a kid snoring comfortably. wounded. Hurrying down we found the The fire was a good alarm clock. It kid, and Kewiki put an end to its life. burned exactly two hours, during which Taking the choicest parts we started time we were comfortable, then the cold back to camp, and wasted a good deal roused us and one would get up and of time trying to gather specimens of sil- feed the fire. It was a very cold night verswords. with frost all around. Some time ago there was an article in The following day, Sunday, we did a Honolulu paper in which the writer little but rest. Our first thought was told of a German firm which wanted to water, so we started to explore the pali buy large quantities of silversword to back of us hoping to find in some of the be used in decorating Christmas cards. crevices pockets which held water. We The editor feared that if the plants were 6-M. P. 182 THE MID- PACIFIC not protected they would become extinct. About noon of the second of January, The difficulty in getting the plants is so we started back. We had already done great that there is very little danger of a great deal of walking that day and their becoming extinct. Most of the were not very fresh. We arrived at Mr. plants grow in inaccessible places on the Vierra's a little before sunset, and after face of palis where even the goats are supper we talked till midnight. The night unable to get them. was so beautiful and clear owing to the On our way to camp we secured a full moon, that the crater looked but a few, and, as a thick fog now completely few hundred yards away. We decided filled the crater and a south wind began to start then and take advantage of the to blow, we hurried as fast as possible cool night for our walk. intending to pack and get down to Kaupo Traveling light, for we had left every- before the Kona storm should commence, thing but our raincoats and canteens, we for to be caught in that end of the crater expected to reach our camp in thi ee in such weather would be to be like rats hours. Starting on the wrong path we caught in a barrel. wasted an hour's time, to say nothing of Cutting sticks to act as brakes, we our strength and temper, but finally we started down Kaupo Gap. For once we found the right path. The distance from agreed on the road, as there was only Mr. Vierra's home to the crater is about one possible way to go. For miles the five miles, and the trail makes an ascent trail follows the gully washed out at the of more than five thousand feet. It seem- very foot of the ridge which separates the, ed as if we would never reach the crater. crater from Kipahulu valley. Hours passed and we seemed as far During the past three years a weed away as ever. The crater was always has grown so thickly over the gap that "just over the next rise." it is impossible to get through without At last, after five or six hours of the cutting a path. We followed cattle trail-, most uncomfortable walk we had ever through it, and were all right. The trip taken, we decided to go no further. So down the gap was very hard indeed, for making a big fire we lay down on the the strain on the muscles was very great. frozen ground wrapped in our raincoats. We had planned to go to Mokulau, After a brief rest, it was daylight. Jump- the home of Mr. Garnett, that same ing to our feet—there was no other • night, but Mr. Antone Vierra, who is preparation necessary—we started for well known because of his great hospi- camp and arrived there in half an hour. tality, saw us coming and would not let 4ilere we found everything in disorder. us go by his house. Nothing would do The cattle had knocked things in every but for us to stay all night. Tired, dirty direction, and the rats and mongoose had and hungry, we were soon persuaded to disposed of all the food we had left. accept the kind hospitality offered us, We breakfasted on a can of cold corn- and all our wants were soon supplied. ed beef and a drink of chocolate, and The next morning, the first day of the started across the crater. The road now new century, we wondered around Kau- was quite familiar, and we did not waste po, arriving at Mr. Garnett's in time for much time in going wrong. As we were lunch. We made his home our head- pretty well hardened we did not spend quarters for a day, and enjoy the rest many minutes resting. By four o'clock greatly. we were at the wall where we had en- This gave Kamuela an opportunity to tered the crater. How steep it did look ! repair certain portions of his clothing We shook our heads in despair, but time which had suffered from the lava rocks. was too valuable, so the ascent was com- Owing to Kewiki's getting news by menced. telephone that he was needed at home, We went went up zigzag first to the we decided to go back immediately on right, then to the left. Aided by our foot over the same route already traveled. bamboo staffs which were given us by THE MID-PACIFIC 183 Mr. Vierra, we were able to keep from feet forward, crowding the lame toes. sliding or rolling to the bottom. When Besides, we were weak from exhaustion we came to a spot level enough for both and lack of food and sleep. feet to rest, we stopped. At Ukulele we obtained some bread After an hour's climb we reached the and milk which refreshed us greatly. Our brink of the crater. Had we had breath spirits rose as the food went down. or strength enough for it we would have Oh, the pleasure to be on horses in- given a cheer, but our troubles were not stead of our feet ! We felt our troubles yet over, for we had three and a half were now over. The pilikias of the trip miles yet to walk before reaching the were very much like the pangs of sea mountain dairy of Haleakala ranch. This part of the journey was most sickness—after a week on shore they are painful. Kamuela had on a pair of new forgotten and the sufferer is willing to shoes bought at Kaupo to take the place do the same thing again. of those which had been worn out in the On the way down the mountain, we crater. The shoes were stiff and too planned another similar trip to be taken short, and the down hill walk threw the at the earliest opportunity. The Silversword of Haleakala. 184 THE MID-PACIFIC ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ One of the many Japanese greyhounds of the Pacific, built on the lines of a yacht. These fleet vessels ply to every part of the great ocean and to the ports of India and Europe. Their comfort is unexcelled. At sea on a Japanese steamship. On a Japanese Steamer By HUGH M. POLWARTH. LIKE the little Japanese because he was unknown in Japan, and operated is so cock sure that he belongs Ito clumsy junks on the Inland Sea, now I the most wonderful race in the sends 6,000 ton ocean racers to England, world. And so it is, if you look at Australia and the two Americas, and by the matter with unprejudiced eyes. Eng- building in Japan what remained for land has taken centuries to build up her some years the largest vessels afloat on merchant marine, and here comes Ori- the Pacific, forced the keen, energetic ental, little Japan, not yet out of her American to build ocean leviathans larger swaddling clothes as a child among civil- for a time than anything afloat on the ized nations, and lays claim to possessing Atlantic. Not a bad record for a nation the most comprehensive steamship com- of little yellow people that learned only pany in the world. Nor is the claim fifty years ago there was a world beyond without foundation, for the Nippon Yu- the Orient, and at once set out to re- sen Kabashka Kaisha, which means in verse the application of the great English plain English "Japanese Mail Steamship poet's plaint, "Better fifty years of Company," counts its steamers by the Europe than a cycle of Cathay." hundreds and almost encircles the globe In the opinion of many Japan is in a with various lines of fast ocean grey- fair way of accomplishing her ambition, hounds, for this company that was born for all over Nippon today one finds all the under the old regime when steam power comforts of civilization ; hotels equal to 185 186 THE MID -PACIFIC any in Europe, trains that are rapid, and haps a couple of slow-footed house ser- trolley cars as reckless in their mad career vants are bearing their mistress in a through the city streets as any in Amer- Kago over the roadway higher up the ica. Yet, while assuming the garb of mountain side. And the little toy trains modern civilization, Japan has by no of the Japanese dart in and out from means discarded old traditions and cus- tunnels located in most unexpected toms. She has merely adopted the best places. the world can offer to her mode of life. Then there are the gorgeous temples The Jinrikisha was the invention of an scarcely less resplendant than the brilliant American sailor; it suited the Japanese foliage through which you catch a fleet- and they adopted it as their national ing glimpse of the red and gold of the pleasure vehicle and means of travel, but wonderful carving that adorns every in the mountain districts the Kago, or Buddhist shrine in Japan. Or perhaps the hammock slung from a pole on the vessel glides by a tori gate, raised as if shoulders of two coolies still holds its from the bosom of the sea, or is swiftly own, and the modern railway train has hurled by eddying currents between two been adapted to the needs of the Jap- tiny islands upon which quaint little anese. The cars, a cross between the brown men are planting rice, oblivious of English compartment and the American the presence of any stranger. A day Pullman, have the seats ranged length- quickly passes among the beautiful isl- wise, and are so constructed that they are ands of the inland sea before the narrow equally convenient to sit upon a la mod- straits of Shimonoseki are passed, and the ern European, with legs dangling down, most delectable portion of the globe is or in respectable Oriental style with the left behind. stocking feet curled up under the body ; In many respects, however, the islands while on the floor in the center of the car that stretch about the coast of Korea, op- is the ever-present tray of live coals that posite the straits, are very like those in keeeps warm the earthen teapot, from the inland sea, save that they lack the pic- which the passengers may help themsel- turesque results obtained from a thou- ves ad-lib. In home life, as in travel, sand years of artistic cultivation. there is a happy blending of the rush of Japan is assimilating Korea, her mail • the transplanted Occident, tempered by steamers ply regularly to every port, and the luxury and ease inseparable from the from Fusan, just opposite the straits of Orient. Stimonoseki, to Seoul, the capital, the But to return to our steamers, the Japanese have built their railway. The pride of Modern Japan. The Nippon little Japanese engineers still ride along Yusen Kaisha sends its vessels to every new lines of survey, giving their orders port in Japan and would monopolize the from the rikisha to the coolie laborers steam traffic of the Chinese rivers and laying crossties and rails ; but in the dis- coast. tricts a little back from the railway one There is no more delightful way of may occasionally encounter some country seeing the Inland Sea than from the deck noble taking an airing in one of the an- of a local steamer of the Nippon Yusen cient national Korean vehicles of travel, or the Toyo Kisen Kaisha. Entering which consists of a Kago on a single these wonderful waters after passing wheel. Wooden pendants from the box Kobe, the vessel is never more than a few in which his lordship seats himself, des- hundred feet from the pine clad hills and cend to earth, and are tipped with a di- cultivated fields of the numerous islands. munitive wheel. It is one of the stran- Here and there on the mainland high- gest vehicles encountered in any land on ways, fleet-footed coolies may be seen this planet. darting in and out among the cherry The European and Australian liners of trees, drawing some richly dressed na- the Japanese lines turn southward on tive merchant in the tiny rikisha. Or per- passing through the straits of Shimono- THE MID- PACIFIC 187 seki, and once Shanghai is left behind the senger is shaken to pieces in a native punka boys are put to work and the great prairie schooner instead of on the deck of fans in the dining hall and state rooms the ship of the desert. Leisurely, never are kept in motion, for strange to relate more than three miles an hour, the In- the Japanese, although a most hardy race, dian camel hauls his load and perempt- can not bear up against excessive heat as orily rests when he is tired. Should the well as can the white man. Thus it is tourist wish to extend his trip to take in perhaps that while millions of Chinamen a part of Afghanistan, he must change have emigrated southward to the British cars for a pony wagon, which is even settlements on the Indian Ocean, few slower still, but it is not often that the visitors from Japan are encountered once traveler for pleasure drifts far from the the Island of Formosa is passed. At Sin- beaten track of railway travel. gapore, almost on the equator, the heat A trip by rail from Calcutta to Bombay becomes unbearable, and a trip across the is the usual itinerary of the globe trotter Indian Ocean is often but the record of a in India. week long Turkish bath. Even the artful Japanese can not make No matter how brief the stop at Col- the sea voyage from India to Aden a ombo, the exhausted traveler is apt to thing of joy to be remembered forever seek a few hours' recuperation in the with pleasure if the trip be taken during mountains. If it is a hot day even the the Monsoon season, and at Aden the promised sensation of his first elephant gentle zephyrs from the Arabian deserts ride does not tempt him into the broiling all but stifle the foreigner. This British sun ; he is more content to remain in the coaling station is chiefly remembered be- • club house piazza sucking lemon squashes cause laundry can be sent ashore and will • through a straw and watching the Cey- be returned in eight hours, and because lonese "horse" go by, bearing his various of its underground water tanks that cause loads of freight, or acting as a street car, speculation as to where the water to fill carrying half a dozen listless natives in them is obtained. the little house upon his back, for the ele- The date caravans to Aden make the phant in Ceylon is used as a drawer of traveler acquainted with a new variation water, a hewer of wood, a beast of bur- of the possibilities of passenger accom- den and a nurse for children. The ex- modation on the camel express, for here • periment of having him pass the plate in one meets with his humped friend carry- church has even been tried, and the efer- ing a square little tent elevated on either present small boy has been known to side, from which native beauties coyly tempt this most useful of man's friends peep, or the more homely Arab shiek from the paths of rectitude by the tender smiles affably at the stranger, forgets his of spurious peanuts in lieu of current rank and station, and ignominously asks coin. for backsheesh. As a vehicle of travel the Ceylonese It is from Aden that the journey up elephant has proved more successful than the Red Sea is entered upon. There are he has as a warden in church. seasons of the year when the Red Sea Once a month the Japanese steamer:, does not actually boil, there are others stop at Ceylon on their way to London, when the children, who can stand the and once a month the Bombay steamer appalling heat better than adults, are arrives. If it is midwinter a journey by pressed into service to fan the prostrate train from Madras, at the extreme of passengers stricken with heat apoplexy. India, to Bombay is not absolutely un- At any season, one and all hail with de- bearable, but Indian train travel is not a light the day upon which the steamer luxury, and in the northern districts even reaches the Suez Canal, and the train can camel travel is preferable. Camel travel be taken for Cairo, a few hours distant. in Northern India differs from camel Cairo has changed, the camel caravans travel in other countries, in that the pas- still carry their loads of grass and pro- 188 THE MID -PACIFIC duce back and forth across the great new Nippon Yusen Kaisha boats do not stop bridge over the Nile, and the donkey boy at Constantinople ; they sail direct from is persistent as ever, but one may travel Alexandria to Marseilles, where the dog, by Pullman palace car to Khartoum, and man's best friend, is so little respected trolley cars run from the palaces of the that he is put to the basest uses. khedives to the pyramid of Cheops. The The voyage by water from Marseilles Sphinx that has defied the tooth of time to London is most enjoyable, chiefly for for thousands of years is at last crumb- the reason that the remaining passengers ling under the disintegrating rains that are few, and having traveled together now occasionally fall from a sky that was for more than half the distance around forever cloudless until the British built the globe, are thoroughly well acquaint- great dams, made whole deserts cultivat- ed with each other and can exchange able, and changed the climate of Egypt. many reminiscences of the various coun- The clang of the trolley gong knocks all tries visited. the romance out of a trip to the pyramids Think of a voyage on one line of that even a ride on the camels kept in the steamers from Seattle to London direct ! neighborhood of the trolley barns for And this Japanese mail steamship com- hire to the unsophisticated tourist, will pany contemplates extending its service not recall. via Panama to New Orleans and Galves- Travelers no longer listlessly float ton, Texas, for there is a large and down the lotus covered Nile ; they jump growing exchange of commodities be- on the fast express for Alexandria, tween Japan and our Southern states, where the journey by steamer to Europe the finer grades of cloth manufactured is resumed, or a side trip made to Jaffa, in Osaka being made from American twenty-four hours distant on the Medi- raw cotton. Once the Panama Canal is terranean. But here, again, all is chang- opened, Japan will establish a regular ed. The old days of caravan travel from round-the-world steamship service, but Jaffa to Jerusalem is all but forgotten, at present London, the world's metro- for now a torturous Oriental railway polis, is the chief terminus of this long- winds its way to the ancient capital of est regular passenger steamship route in the Holyland, and the camel is relegated the world. • to regions from which he will soon be For some time it was a difficult matter driven by the completion of the railway to persuade the .British traveler to trust from Damascus to Jerusalem. hiMiself to the care of a Japanese captain, In time the Germans will complete engineer and crew, although Lloyds their railway from Constantinople into rated the Nippon Yusen Kaisha boats at this part of the world, and the European Al ; but the prejudice against the Jap- tourist will be able to board his Pullman anese seamen is being overcome, and as at Paris or Calais and go through with- the fare on the Nippon's boats is at least out change of cars to Cairo and Cape better than the monotonous food served Town. The weekly express from Paris on many, and the rates much lower, even has already done much to modernize army officers and their families are be- Constantinople, although the camel and ginning to patronize the yacht-like ocean the donkey still hold their own in Tur- greyhounds of the Japanese. key as means of locomotion, while one Japan being the Switzerland, Great wonders why the "dog power" of Con- Britain, pleasure and health resort of the stantinople remains unutilized. Thou- Far East, all in one, there is quite a pat- sands of canines litter the streets, and ronage of the Australian boats. These being practically sacred animals in Islam, vessels call at Manila, and at the north- are left unmolested for pedestrians to ern and southern terminals of the pro- tumble over and curse, but never to an- posed Trans-Australian railway. Other nihilate for fear of the law and the lines are to be established connecting the wrath of the populace. However, the Pacific Ocean island kingdom with every THE MID -PACIFIC 189 part of the world ; and the Nippon Yusen is being constantly augumented by the Kaisha and the Toyo Kissen Kaisha are addition of new ocean flyers. but two of several large Japanese steam- Japan has proved her right to a place ship companies. among civilized nations, and as she ac- The government, reflecting the ambi- complishes her ambition in the direction tion of the people to make Japan the of becoming the world's maritime power, she will impress her modes of travel in a greatest maritime nation of the world, modified form upon many countries. grants large subsidies for several suc- Already her rikisha has made its way cessive years to all steamships built in around the globe and is driving other Japan, with the result that the ener- vehicles from the field in Asia and getic little Japanese are always building Africa, while in entering California and new, up-to-date boats and selling their Florida it has secured a foothold on our old ones to purchasers wherever they can own continent. What comforts are to be found. In this way a magnificent be added to ocean travel by the adaptive merchant marine has been built up and Japanese remains to be seen. A Japanese liner in the harbor of Honolulu. 190 THE MID-PACIFIC • IN • I I 11 114 4 1 'NMb 1 * e T ? . °461 _ 1 . e t - . fic. i Pac . it l f tern s - We he f t , ° o ts 1‘ ven e he f t ° o e on 1 is 1 l • ' iva . , rn i e Ca at V 40 la '" i _ Man * S • The R 7 1 , I A e C - i l i - E D R :A . /2 : • • • A picture that shows the need of a municipal market building. Market Day in the Philippines • By JOHN R. ARNOLD. ■ HE efforts to establish suitable and other rural industries are for the market buildings in the towns and most part conducted, to put the "gen- Tvillages of the Philippines are of eral stores" of the rural centers of the the greatest importance from at United States without the range of the least three different points of view ; those practicable. Since, then, the establish- of local economic prosperity, of public ments for buying and selling which take health, and of public finance. their places must necessarily be very These municipal markets derive their small and more or less temporary, the great economic importance from the fact local retail trade would necessarily tend that the character of the means of com- to be concentrated in regular market- munication with the rural centers com- places, and to be held at stated times, bines with the lack of capital and the ordinarily one or more set days of each very small scale on which agricultural week. Even when the volume of trade 191 192 THE MID - PACIFIC is sufficient to make the various estab- police and sanitary control obviously in- lishments permanent, they still tend to be volved, is of importance on its financial side. That this is especially true in the individually on a very small scale, and Philippines arises from the fact that the to group, after the usual Oriental fash- power of the elective municipal authori- ion, in markets or bazaars. ties to increase the local revenues with The importance of the sanitary prob- local needs is very limited, and that the lems presented by these markets arises legal maximum is very low. Flourish- from the physical environment of the ing towns of from ten to fifty thousand inhabitants have only the revenues of average Philippine town, and from the country villages. The restrictions which character of its food supply. The drain- are responsible for this state of affairs age of the central parts of a town, which were presumably needed in the begin- ordinarily means those parts convenient ning, when the country was prostrated to water transportation, is nearly always by war and epidemics of disease, but it is now becoming pretty generally felt defective, and -frequently all but non- that a more elastic system is essential. existent. Serious as it is in itself to have It seems certain, indeed, that radical the majority of municipal markets held changes in the general laws on this sub- on sites of this character, the resulting ject will be made in the next few years ; conditions are rendered still worse by but in the meantime the question of find- the perishable nature of most of that ing money for rudimentary public im- provements is a• pressing one. large proportion of the market stocks In the course of a recent investigation that are used for food. Something like into an application for a loan to build a half of the total value of the agricultural market from the municipality of Maca- product of the Islands consists of hemp, bebe, in Pampanga Province—a name sugar-cane, tobacco, copra and coconut familiar to Americans as the place where oil, which do not directly serve the orig- the great majority of the Philippine inal producer for subsistence. There scouts have always been enlisted—it was must, therefore, be almost everywhere found that although this town had, ac- • an extensive local trade in rice, fish, cording to the last general assessment vegetables, fruits and meats. Ice is rarely made in 1908, real estate subject to taxa- to be had, and cold-storage goods are in tion, to the value of $239,350, and had any case little appreciated. Even cereals imposed the maximum land tax for the spoil rapidly during a large part of the three years just preceding the investiga- year, and must be carried in small stocks, tion, yet the. amount actually expended to be turned over as frequently as pos- on permanent improvements during the sible. Indeed, considering everything, three years taken together was only and above all else the widespread popular $1592. This is a typical and by no means ignorance of the danger involved, it a particularly unfavorable case. An act would require in every town a corps of of Congress permits the issue of bonds ; inspectors with Argus-like vision to pre- but the total borrowing powers of the serve entirely sanitary conditions in a average municipality under the restric- Philippine market of any but the very tions imposed is so small, and the pro- best type. cedure required is so cumbrous, that it Finally to be considered are the public has been only in very rare cases that this revenue interests involved. The estab- provision could be actually carried out in lishment or licensing of markets has practice. Until, then, further powers of long been in the Philippines, as in most taxation should be conferred by law, the countries of Europe, a public monopoly. sole solution of the difficulty has appear- As in all such cases, moreover, this mo- ed to be the loaning of funds which have nopoly, apart from the considerations of happened to be in the possession of the THE MID -PACIFIC 193 central government and temporarily idle. liness of any description were meager in It was when the question arose as to the extreme ; and conditions in this re- what class of municipal improvements gard were not improved by the fact that could most properly be selected to re- the vendors were often allowed to sleep ceive the benefit of such loans that the in these booths. When, as was frequent- special administrative importance of the ly the case, the market site abutted on markets came to be perceived ; for these, public or private property occupied by almost alone among the permanent public permanent buildings, the flimsy stalls, works that would be in any way within any one of which would in the dry sea- the present horizon of the average Phil- son have been reduced to ashes within ippine town, can be made to pay a return five minutes from the time of a spark's on the money invested in them. falling on it, greatly increased the local The municipal governments had always fire risk. In view of this state of affairs, been accustomed to derive a certain it was obvious that almost any sort of amount of revenue from the rent of modern fireproof buildings, with proper space in the municipal market site, form- ventilation and sanitation, and in good erly, as a rule, farming it through a locations, would mean at once an enor- contractor, but in more recent years col- mous change for the better from every lecting it by administration. The muni- one of the standpoints that have been cipality of Macabebe had been deriving discussed. over $900 a year from this source since In the case of the town of Macabebe, this latter method was put into opera- it was computed that the construction of tion, and had increased this amount to such a new market at a cost, including something over $1000 during each of the the purchase of new site, of about $10,- two years immediately preceding the in- 500, would raise the market rents from • vestigation referred to. It seemed, then, about $1;000 to $2,000 or $2,500, thus that money loaned for the improvement providing a 'return of 10 to 15 per cent of municipal market property not merely on the investment ; and that this in- contributed to the betterment of the crease would, even during the first ten trade and sanitation of the towns con- years, when interest and annual install- cerned, but might well be expected to ments would have to be paid on the debt give rise to actual increases of revenue, contracted, leave a surplus for invest- which could themselves in turn be uti- ment in further improvements of a per- • lized for improvements of a less directly manent nature. The loan once 'repaid, it remunerative character. • appeared that the surplus would prob- The probability of such increases of ably add 30 per cent to the gross reven- revenue had been established by actual ues of the town, and more than triple the cases ; and it was made particularly great sum available for expenditure, over and by the miserable character of most of the above those expenses of a purely admin- existing markets from which this por- istrative nature. tion of the municipal ,receipts had so far It was fortunate that, at about the time been in actual practice derived. A typical when the desirability of a systematic pro- Philippine market-place of the old order gram of permanent improvements in the was an area usually of low land, and so municipalities became especially pressing, poorly drained that, in the season of hard there also became available amounts of rains, it became more or less of a quag- money considerably larger than had mire. There were seldom any perman- previously been the cases, for the pur- ent buildings. Those that did exist were pose of making loans to the municipalities stalls or booths of bamboo and thatch, for the construction of markets. By July which were put up by the small mer- 1, 1912, in accordance with an act of chants who rented the space, and in the the Philippine Legislature, it became repair of which the municipality had no possible to increase the total amount of direct interest. The facilities for clean- government loans outstanding by nearly 194 THE MID -PACIFIC 200 per cent. A portion of the amount portant coconut growing district in the made available for immediate invest- southern part of La Laguna Province, ment was temporarily set aside for con- one was constructed at a cost of $12,000, struction loans to the Manila Railway and was opened to the public June 8, Company. Other loans were made for 1910. The receipts from the old market road and bridge building. The act refer- had averaged about $1,030 a year ; those red to, however, specified that the loans from the new establishment have been were to be made "to aid in the construc- at the rate of $6,196, an increase of 473 tion of public works, particularly those per cent. The increase in the annual in- of a revenue-producing character." The come from the market amounts to 42 per roads and bridges in question, though of cent of the investment, and it would be enormous economic benefit, did not ful- possible for the municipality to repay the fill the condition of this last clause ; and cost of the modern building in two years it has therefore resulted that a large from market receipts alone. All towns portion of the funds in question has are not so favorably situated as this, been loaned for market improvements. which is not only centrally located in a All these loans are at 3 per cent interest, prosperous district, but is connected by payable quarterly, and are repayable in rail with Manila ; but in every case re- ten annual instalments. corded the markets are returning from The market buildings constructed with 10 to 50 per cent on the investment. the funds thus made available are built in Indirect benefits have already resulted accordance with standard plans worked and are bound to result in still greater out by experience and with due refer- measure from the establishment of these ence to local economic and sanitary institutions. From the economic point of needs. They are open on all sides, with view they tend to build up centers and floors, walls and pillars of reinforced arteries of trade, and to encourage in- concrete, and are covered with substan- creased plantings of marketable products ; tial iron or tile roofs laid over trusses of they supply motives for more extensive hard wood or steel. The ventilation, intercommunication, and thereby tend to drainage, and facilities for cleaning are introduce new commodities and raise the as perfect as they can be made, the new standard of living ; and, since the busi- sites being selected with special refer- ness in them is almost wholly conducted ence to these considerations, as well as by Filipinos, they confute the frequently • to the convenience of the location for repeated traveler's tales to the effect that buyers and sellers. The general plans the people were not competent to handle provide for one or more central build- the° retail business of their own country. ings, 30 to 100 feet in width, and of They have benefited the public health by lengths determined by the exigencies of doing away once and for all with the the sites, while around the sides are rows old type of market, where there was of small ,bazaar stalls, facing the central close contact of numerous buyers and building. All outside stalls are arranged sellers within the ill-kept premises, and so that they may be closed and securely where food exposed for sale was given locked, and the main entrances are pro- promiscuous handling as well. vided with iron gates to be locked at Finally, from the financial point of night, when no one but the caretaker is view, they have, by adding to the nor- allowed to stay within the, inclosure. Only mally scanty municipal revenues, opened those who have actually seen both the up on a modest scale numberless avenues old and the new types can fully appre- of civic progress. The most obvious ciate the benefits of the change. and probably the most important of these As regards their efficiency in increas- point towards the construction of such ing municipal revenues, these new mar- permanent public utilities as comfortable kets have quite fulfilled expectations. In and hygienic school buildings, artesian the municipality of San Pablo, in the im- wells or other systems of water-supply THE MID-PACIFIC 195 (which have in some cases reduced the ill-kept, into pleasant parks or play- death-rate in towns in which they have grounds. It may be questioned, indeed, been installed by fully a half), arrange- if it is often possible in any country, by ments for street lighting, the provision the direct expediture of so little money, of decent cemeteries, and the turning of to bring about civic betterment so great the municipal plazas, which a wise pro- in amount and so widespread, as is now vision of the old Laws of the Indies had being, and will continue to be, done by required every town to provide, but the program of modern market building which had usually remained weedy and in the towns of the Philippines. Dog is the meat delicacy of the Igorrote. Only thin, short haired dogs are desired. 196 THE MID-PACIFIC • * • rownprzunpuuwounurainurriviTuripi O — — — — It • • • l• • . N . •• Hawaii --- • A Poem = • M • _,_. • By • .-7 -- ELEANOR RIVENBURGH = e • • • . • • • 1 lived in a land where the sun set red, • Where twilight faded in nature dyes, • . Where a blue-black veil, star-sprinkled was spread . E • With jewels that fired the sombre skies . At night, i . When the light Of the moon was dead. C . . . Where the natives were kind, and their voices a wail, • . Where their songs were sad, and lured you to rest, 1 Where the flowers were soft, and sweet, and frail, • . And were woven by maidens to drape your breast I• In the morn, 5 11 • . At dawn, On the mountain trail. .7 11 There moonlight and sunlight rainbows glow, • The surfer sports with the dancing spray, And sometime, soon or late, I know, 1 • I shall seek my home-land, far away I yearn For 11 k To return To "Hawaii Nei." 1 nmiciu,,,,,----.=,,Ouia—,---iii:1 • ADVERTISING SECTION • . • ■ • ., ' IA :, ,, _ 4 , '' - • ' - ; ; .. i. ._ ; 6. ; ',, " - 0 ., , " ., . , 7 , , , .. -.. ; . all `. • ) . 7 • ' t u. t - -- - - . . . 7%,. p - -, o .o ` - .. . . . :' „ : . N - .. ' '7. 1/ . . , . „ ' '. 4 Xi. '' ' : . oil 1 t . - * ' i.. -- . -- ", 1 - 13AI, ' - 's- .- 11 - , ' - _ - - ri! ' , AK • ,, • ' , 1111 ... , '' ' . '' - ■ - • ., . . , ;. ''' au!! • '' , , -,, '''' ',„ ''''. O : - *",.., :; ' ::: ' J ., ; ` '- -. 1 41 . 7 , , . . . 7 „ . 4, ' ] , 4 111 . ' - -, . , - . . -. " . .. 7. - '! t . , ' • !.., ' 7 - _ . 11011 4 f 9.. *0. , . 4 n : 11 ; 1 1 . i '10 ' II • • .: 7 • ' ": iril : . . • i .i utt I ., , *, :. ' . ` n$I .. ' L 4 - 7 4 ' 11 . pp ' ' - # . ' - 11 .,, ii, . ' • ' ‘'- , r :-. . : 4 . nt. '' :-. ., - ., I 7 . 1 ' * . - ' . C" -. s . . : ; '' l 4 I 0 i. -4 . , V. , i i T ••4. • )41 'k' ''' ti. ' ' .. ... ' sA, ik - ' . : sul. j .. ''',*. - i , 7 . . , all • . ; .. . • .' -, ' 3 : 1 ': ` L '- ' 7 • ' 10. , ' * . 11 ', 1 -- , , tV 31 - - -., 4 , . ' 111. t . , A. ' , 1111 , .. • I. i ' [ • , i .., . .' 4. '. tim -- . . liolu • p , - l . - . - , ral t p • • 2 THE MID-PACIFIC 73. aS 'TS 0 • 0 O O can.) iz5 0 E O THE MID-PACIFIC 3 • 4 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 5 6 THE MID-PACIFIC • The Honolulu Gas Company maintains at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets spacious exhi- bition rooms and a parlor where everyone is welcome. Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. THE MID-PACIFIC 7 • The Honolulu Home of the Regal Shoe, the Hawaii Shoe Co., King & Bethel Sts. Drop us a postal for FREE SAMPLES of PINEAPPLE SILK, the beautiful sheer fabric so popular for dainty Summer dresses and evening gowns. In all plain shades and many pretty stripes; 27 to 36 inches wide, 50c to $1.00 per yard. B. F. EHLERS & CO., Honolulu, Hawaii. 8 THE MID-PACIFIC The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents Pacific Mail S. S .Co., The American-Hawaiian and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines. Lra,: The Beautiful and Spacious Rotunda of the Hackfeld Building. THE MID-PACIFIC 9 The Works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Co., Ltd. This Company Stores its Fertilizer • in Honolulu in the Largest Concrete Building West of the Rockies. • A Corner of H. Culman's Factory. The Sales Rooms are at the Corner of Hotel and Fort Streets, Honolulu. Hawaiian Jewelry and Curios. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC OR AYIti ER44. Peerless Preserving Paint Co., Ltd., and the Honolulu Construction & Draying Co. have their offices at 65 Queen Street. A postal or telephone call (2281) will be re- sponded to by a foreman, who will give full particulars and a careful estimate. It is 2400 miles from Vancouver to moa and Tonga ; the fare on these Honolulu, and the fare by the Cana- cruises being $5 a day. dian-Australian monthly palatial steam- The Union Steamship Co. makes a ers is $65.00 up, first-class. The through specialty of this cruise. There are fare to Australia is, $200, with stop-over cruises, annually, to the wonderful West Coast sounds of New Zealand, grander privileges. These Pacific Ocean grey- • hounds stop for a day in Honolulu on than the Fjords of Norway. There are the trips to and from the Australian monthly cruises to the Cook Islands and Colonies. The vessels of this Trans- Tahiti, where direct connection is made Pacific line belong to the Union S. S. for San Francisco. Co. of New Zealand, the third largest steamship company flying the British flag. The Vancouver-Australia boats also stop for a day at Suva, Fiji, where the native of the South Seas may be seen in his pristine simplicity. A month's stop-over, both in Hawaii and Suva, may be made to advantage. By the big cruising steamers of the Union Steam- ship Company there is a monthly cruise in either direction, from Auckland to Sydney, stopping at ports of Fiji, Sa- THE MID-PACIFIC 11 E. 0. Hall & Son, Cor. Fort and King Streets. The MoIna Hotel, Waikiki. The Blaisdell" is the newest and most up-to- date Hotel in Honolulu. It is run on the Euro- pean plan, being situ- ated in the heart of the city, (Fort Street and Chaplain Lane). It is near all the downtown Clubs, Cafes, and Res- taurants. The rates are moderate—running wa- ter in every room. Pub- lic baths as well as the private, have hot and cold water. Telephones in all the rooms, ele- vator and pleasant lanais. Mrs. C. A. Blaisdell is the proprietress, as well as of The Majestic, which is a first-class rooming house, corner Beretania and Fort Sts. The Blaisdell. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC THE YOKOHAMA SPECIE BANK, HONOLULU. THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF HONOLULU. The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has occupied its premises on the corner of Merchant and Kaahumanu streets since the year 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the Islands, and the institu- tion has ever since been closely identified with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M. Damon and Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cockburn. On June 30, 1913, the deposits with this bank amounted to $6,493,462 . 87. BANK OF HONOLULU, LTD., located in Fort street, is an old established financial institution. It does exchange on the prin- cipal parts of the world, issues cable The Entrance to the Bank of Hawaii. transfers, and transacts a general bank- ing business. THE MID-PACIFIC 13 If you contemplate building a home, see the architect and then the Hustace- Peck Co. for your draying and crushed rock material. Draying in Honolulu is an important business, and Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd:, are the pioneers in this line, and keep drays of every size, sort and de- scription for the use of those who re- quire them. They also conduct a rock crusher, and supply crushed rock. Their office is at 63 Queen sti eet, and the 'phone number is 2295. Fort is the leading business street of Honolulu, and above is pictured the in- terior of one of its leading stores, that of H. F. Wichman & Co., Jewelers. Seemingly the big store of H. F. Wichman & Co., Ltd., occupies more than half the block on Fort street be- tween King and Hotel streets. Wich- man's is one of the show places of the • city. Here you may profitably spend a day over the great cases of silverware. If you have jewels which need setting, are interested in diamonds, or are look- . ing for a weeding present, you will visit Wichman's. The very fashionable shops are in the Alexander Young Building, and the largest of these is that of the Ha- waiian News Co. Here the ultra fashionable stationery of the latest design is kept in stock. Every kind of paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as well as printers' and binders' supplies. There are musical instruments of every kind in stock, even to organs and pianos an dthe Angelus piano player. Eith- er the resident or the tourist Silva's Toggery, on King Street, exhibits the finest dis- will find the Hawaiian play of Men's and Boys' Clothing to be seen in Hawaii. News Co. stores of interest. Everything to equip the polite man is kept in stock. The phone is 224. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC Sabin, P. Maurice McMahon, H. M. Ayres, C. D. Wright, Sanford B. Dole, Dr. E. V. Wilcox, C. F. Merrill and Jack Densham. There are also extracts dealing with local subjects from the works of Charles Warren Stoddard, Rollin M. Daggett, Robert Louis Stevenson and Mark Twain. Three editions, De Luxe, limited to 100 copies, bound in Limp Art leather, silk lined, deckle edge paper, illustrated with photographs. A dainty gift edition, $5.00. Tapa bound in Hawaiian tapa, boards, a souvenir edition, $1.50. Paper bound, in rough cover paper, a pocket edition, $1. For sale at all book stores, or address Charles D. Wright, P. 0. Box 455, Honolulu, T. H. The HAWAIIAN EXPRESS CO., .phone phone 2464 makes a specialty of country hauling, although every kind of expres- "Bits of Verse From Hawaii" is the sage is attended to with dispatch. The title of a beautiful little volume that home of the Company is the big red front has recently come from the press, and building at the corner of Queen and Nuu- it is everything that its name implies. anu streets. This company is under a These "bits of verse" have been culled reliable management and it can give as by C. D. Wright from the many sources reference the leading business men of the visitors and kamaainas use to express city and the banks. their love for Hawaii, and are right from The OAHU ICE and ELECTRIC Co. sup- the heart, and were written with never plies the Army in Honolulu at a cheaper a thought that they would find their way rate than the United States Government into a compilation that would help to im- can buy ice in Alaska. The works and • mortalize the most beautiful spot on earth—Hawaii : beloved by all its resi- cold storage rooms are in the Kakaako will dents and by all who visit and pass on. disrict, but a phone message to 1218 The poems have been culled by Mr. answer every purpose as the company Wright from the files of the local papers has its auto delivery trucks. for the past fifteen or twenty years, a ma- The HAWAIIAN CARRIAGE MANUFAC- jority of them having been originally TURING CO. at 427 Queen St., phone published in the Advertiser. Those who 2447, does the carriage repairing and glance through the collection will be sur- building in Honolulu. This concern can prised at the almost universal high qual- build a buggy or carriage from start to ity of the verse, which includes much finish, and having been in business many written by amateurs, as well as recog- years in Hawaii, it understands the exact nized gems from Robert Louis Stevenson requirements for the roads and the dif- and other geniuses who have visited Ha- ferent sections in the Islands. The waii or made their homes here. spacious workshops are always busy. The verses are from the pens of a . The KERSHNER VULCANIZING WORKS number of local writers, including Mary are on Alakea St., near the Royal Ha- Dillingham Frear, Anna M. Paris, Em- waiian Hotel, and here tires that are old ma L. Dillingham, Anne M. Prescott, and worn are made good as new. If you Eleanor Rivenburgh, Anna C. Dole, are in trouble with your tires or auto, Leola Harvey-Elder, Annie M. Felker, phone 2434, or send your tires down. Tom McGiffen, E. S. Goodhue, W. F. Tires and inner tubes are always in stock. THE MID-PACIFIC 15 Honolulu Trust Companies The Trent Trust Co., incorporated in with offices in the Bank of Hawaii Build- 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, ing. The Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., a now has $100,000 in fully-paid cash $200,000 incorporation, with $100,000 capital and an earned surplus account of issued and paid, occupies the spacious $20,000. Its assets have grown until quarters at the corner of Fort and they stand now at $270,000 gross ; and Merchant streets. Here the wireless the policy of the Company in conserving system for Hawaii was born, and housed until very recently. There are spacious the financial and property interests of its clients has proven so satisfactory to its vaults for valuable papers, insurance de- patrons that its list of customers shows partment, real estate feature, and every steady growth- from year to year ; and department common to the up-to-date three different times has it been found trust company. The managers were for flecessary to enlarge its quarters in order years associated with Henry Water- to handle its increasing business. The house, before the firm that had stood for half a century was incorporated as Trent Trust Co. makes a specialty of a trust company. The telephone number handling estates, collecting incomes, and is 1208. investing surplus or idle funds. In this THE FIRST TRUST Co. of Hilo, Ltd., • branch of its business it has clients in is one of the rapidly growing institutions many parts of the world, including the of the Crescent City. Situated in the British Isles, Europe, China, Japan, and bank building it is in the heart of the the American mainland from Boston to business center and every year its busi- San Francisco and up into Canada. The ness shows a substantial increase. C. C. Company also does a large real estate Kennedy is President and H. B. Mari- and general insurance business, repre- ner, Treasurer and Manager. senting in the Islands the Mutual Life Insurance Co. of New York, and some strong fire companies. Its membership in the Honolulu Stock and Bond Ex- change enables it to buy and sell securi- ties on the best favorable terms. The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its directors and officers are men of ability, integrity and high standing in the com- munity. The Company was incorporated HAWAII & SOUTH SEAS CURIO CO., in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 Alexander Young Building. Hawaiian fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated Handicraft, Oriental Fabrics, Silks, doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, Drawn Work, Grass Linens, Fans, the Capital of the Company was $200,- Basketry, Hats, Souvenir Jewelry, Post- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided cards, etc. The Largest Pacific-Souvenir Profits $22,573..7. It conducts a trust House in the World. Stands at Moana, company business in al lits various lines Alexander Young and Royal Hawaiian. 16 THE MID-PACIFIC ACROSS THE PACIFIC One of the American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and Honolulu, via Tehuantepec. There are two ways to Hawaii, Aus- Francisco by this line. The Pacific Mail tralia and Japan. From San Francisco dispatches a steamer for the Orient every or from Vancouver. From San Fran- ten clays, stopping at Honolulu. cisco the Oceanic S. S. Co. dispatches From Vancouver the Canadian-Aus- one of its boats every two weeks to Ho- tralian Line dispatches one of its splendid nolulu. Every four weeks one of its ves- steamers every fourth Wednesday via • sels stops at Honolulu and goes on to Honolulu, Suva and Auckland to Sydney. Australia. The Matson Navigation Co. also navi- The "Niagara", the largest and finest gates vessels to Hawaii, and through steamship playing south of the line, is on tickets to Australia are sold from San this run. Entrance to lands of Kaimuki Land Co., Wilhelmina Rise. Down town office, Henry Waterhouse Trust Company. The lands of the Pablo Land and Improvement Co., Kaimuki, Office McCandless Building. THE MID-PACIFIC 17 New South Wales Tourist Bureau tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of rare magnificence. Through countless centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- dous gorges, comparable only to the famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- tus covered slopes give off health-giving odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring panoramas, impress themselves on the memory of the mountain visitor. The wonderful system of limestone caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- tions, which must for ever remain the despair of the painter, the photographer and the writer. The world has no more Physical configuration and a wide marvelous or beautiful system of caves range of climate give the State of New than these at Jenolan, which tourists South Wales its wonderful diversity of from everywhere have marked as their scenery, its abundance of magnificent own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- • resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- plemented and rivalled by the extensive ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- bewildering array of scenic attractions, ly, a little further away from Sydney. and the peculiar strangeness of the forms In the south on the Australian Alps, of its animal and vegetable life, which lies the unique Kosciusko Range, which makes New South Wales one of the most contains the highest peak in the Conti- interesting countries in the world, and nent, and is said to be the oldest land sur- one which an up-to-date, well-traveled face on the globe. The Hotel Kosciusko, tourist must see. a modern spa, replete with every conve- The climate of the State ranges fro% nience, golf links and tennis courts, an the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the ideal tourist headquarters, stands at an sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- altitude of 6000 feet. In summer, the ers, and withal is one of the most equable mountaineer and trout fisherman stays in the world. Its eastern shore is washed here to enjoy the majestic scenery at the by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific summit, or fill his bag with fish caught and stretches by meadow, tableland and in a handy stream, and in winter the ski- mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath runner, tobogganer and ice-skater revels the rim of the setting sun. in the Alpine carnivals conducted on the Sydney, the capital, is the great tour- glistening snowfields. ist rendezvous. It is an important com- The Government Tourist Bureau, a mercial center, but the incomparable splendidly equipped Institution at Challis beauty of its situation has given it wide- House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- spread fame as a holiday city. Its mighty mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to harbor with its peculiar and sustained. all inquirers in connection with the tour- beauty, is the talk of the world. North ist resorts of the State. Special itinera- and South from the capital is flung the ries are planned, and everything possible rugged Pacific coast, with its line of is done by the Bureau to facilitate the golden dazzling beaches, the palpitating mcvements and put to the best use the haunts of the surf bather. time of visitors while in New South Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- Wales. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC The Puunene Store, at Kahului, and the Kahului Store, conducted by the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Co., are the most complete on the island of Maui. WAILUKU HOTEL—This delightful who intends to locate in Hilo and ex- home hotel is beautifully located in the pand with the city will necessarily con- center of Wailuku. Mrs. George K. sult with E. N. Holmes of the big de- Trimble is the manager and understands partment store. If he is a man he will • the art of setting a tempting table. This outfit himself here, while the woman is the family hotel on Maui, and a does her shopping for the home with this charming one with spacious grounds and oldest and best of department stores on cottages. The rates are $2.50 a day, the big island. It is interesting to the $15.00 a week, or $45.00 by the month. tourist also to visit this typical emporium The Maui Stables in Wailuku maintain of the Island of Hawaii. an auto, rig, and horseback service to THE HILO MERCANTILE CO., LTD., iS every available part of the Island of also a concern that helps Hilo grow. It Maui. If you contemplate a trip to is connected with its own planing mill, Haleakala, around the Island of Maui, or so that you may ord& your house, from a staay on that island, communicate with lumber to furnishings, including plumb- the Maui Stables, or call for the infor- ing and hardware from the big store of mation at the office of Wells-Fargo &Co., the Hilo Mercantile Co., Ltd., on Front in Honolulu. street, which is filled with every kind of E. N. HOLMES, on Waianuenue street, general merchandise, and is well worth is the pioneer merchant and has the big a visit, whether you are tourist or resi- department store in Hilo. The man dent. THE MID- PACIFIC 19 One of the oldest and most reliable in hermetically-sealed tins for use in the business houses of Honolulu is that of tropics at no extra charge. Allen & Robinson on Queen street, People don't usually die in Honolulu, phone 2105. This firm for generations but when they do they phone in ad- has supplied the people of Honolulu vance to Henry H. Williams, 1146 and those on the other islands with Fort street, phone number 1408, and their building materials and paints. he arranges the after details. If you Their office is on Queen street, near the are a tourist and wish to be interred Inter-Island S. S. Building, and their in your own plot on the mainland, lumber yards extend right back to the Williams will embalm you ; or he will harbor front, where every kind of hard arrange all details for interment in and soft wood grown on the coast is Honolulu. Don't leave the Paradise landed by the schooners that ply to of the Pacific for any other, but if you Puget Sound. must, let your friends talk it over with Music is not neglected in Hawaii. Williams. Ernest Kaai has his Hawaiian Conserva- tory in the Alexander Young building, and here he teaches the use of the native ukulele. It is the Kaai Glee Club that provides all of the Social Music for Honolulu. In Hawaii people dance to vocal as well as to instrumental music and all of Kaai's musicians arc excellent singers, who sing in both English and in Hawaiian. From Kaai's Glee Club • the youth of Hawaii learn the songs of the people. Ernest Kaai can supply a quartette for a small dance or as many as fifty musicians for a big public affair. It is worth while visiting the studio and studying the native Hawaiian musi- cal instruments. The Consolidated Soda Water Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort street, are the largest The Pacific Private Sanatorium, phone in the Territory and well worth a visit 1153 or address Miss Jessie Rae, Ke- at lunch time. Aerated waters cost but walo street, Honolulu, for terms. little in Hawaii, from 35 cents a dozen In building your house, and after, you bottles up. The Consolidated is agent will need the expressman. The easiest fa, Hires Root Beer and puts up a Kola way is to phone orders to 1281. This is Mint aerated water that is delicious, be- the City Transfer Co., Jas .H. Love, sides a score of other flavors. Phone manager, King St., near Fort. 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any store. If you have films, or need supplies, The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak headquarters, Fort Street, develops and prints for tourists within a few hours. All photo supplies, films, film packs, plates, cameras, island scenes, photo- graps, etc., always in stock. Develop- ing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70 cents a dozen ; roll films, 60 cents a dozen ; printing, 70 cents. Fresh films packed 20 THE MID-PACIFIC Australia for the Tourist Climate exerts a wonderful influence dezvous for fashion and beauty, who on scenery. The Continent of Austra- revel in the exhilarating Alpine de- lia—a vast territory equal in extent to lights of ski-running, ice-skating and the United States of America—with its tobogganing. finger tips almost reaching the equator In every State are extensive series at Cape York, the northern extremity of underground caves — at Chillagoe of Queensland, and Tasmania dipping its Caves in Queensland, Jenolan, Wom- feet in the icy waters of the Southern beyan and Yarrangobilly in New Ocean, for 200 miles it boldly sweeps South Wales—at Buchan in Victoria, from north to south through the trop- Naracoorte in South Australia, Yal- ical, subtropical and temperate zones. lingup in Western Australia, and at But by far the biggest part lies Chudleigh in Tasmania. They are of within the temperate zone, and enjoys bewildering extent and transcendental a remarkably equable and salubrious beauty. climate, like that of southern France Australian rivers are miniatures and Italy. The proof of the salubrity compared to the Amazon or Hudson, of the Australian climate is reflected in but there are those who prefer a mini- the fact that the country's death rate ature to a large canvas. What Austra- is the lowest in the world. lian streams may lack in grandeur is Australia has much to show the richly compensated for by their com- tourist. It opens up a new field of in- pelling beauty and abiding charm. terest and pleasure for the round-the- The Australian coastline is a world world traveler, and for the political of delightful holiday places. There is and social student. a stupendous chain of rocky promon- • It is true it holds no single out- tories endlessly linked by golden standing feature which may be held beaches of glistening sands, washed by before the world as without parallel. the foaming breakers of the Blue Pa- Australia has no falls like Niagara, no cific. Surfbathing by both sexes in canyons like Colorado, nor river like Australia's glorious sunshine has come the Mississippi. It nevertheless has to be a feature of the National Life. • many fine waterfalls of striking beauty, Australia possesses several magnifi- like the Barron Falls in Queensland, cent lacustrine districts, notably the and the Fitzroy Falls in New South Q.ippsland Lakes in Victoria, the Lakes Wales. It has many magnificent trout of the Tasmania Tableland—Great streams, notably the Goodradigbee and Lake and Lake St. Clair, and the Myall Upper Murray, which have by experi- Lakes of New South Wales. The dom- enced anglers been given pride of inant note of these secluded spots is place before the famous Scottish their air of restful quiet, where tired streams. It has many chains of moun- constitutions renew their vitality and tains, not of the titanic proportions of overwrought nerves are reinvigorated. the Andes or Rockies, but which con- Australia teems with scenic resorts, tain stupendous bluffs and gaping distinct and unique, just because they chasms, and have a distinct and ap- are Australian. Australia has its own pealing grandeur. The Blue Moun- characteristics, its very atmosphere is tains are known wherever Australia is Australian ; its landscape colorings be- known, for their peculiar atmospheric long to it, and to it alone. It has fauna mantle which always enshrouds them, and flora absolutely apart. for their gorgeous colorings, their fairy- Full information concerning Austra- lands of fern, and their orchestral cas- lia as a country for the Tourist may be cades and waterfalls. At Kosciusko, obtained from the Secretary, Depart- Australia's greatest mountain, higher ment of External Affairs, Melbourne, than Righi or Pilatus, and on the Buf- and the Directors of the Government falo Mountains in Victoria, the coun- Tourist Bureaux in the Capitals of tryside is deeply snow-covered in win- Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Ade- ter, and these resorts are made the ren- laide, Perth and Hobart. THE MID -PACIFIC 21 Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the lishment represents in the Territory the chief port' and from Hilo excusions are largest manufacturers of shoes in the made up to all the points of interest. The mainland, among them being Hanan & Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken Son, the M. A. Packard Company, and up the matter of home promotion work Laird Schober & Company. Children's and is developing the wonderful scenic shoes and bare-foot sandals are made a surroundings of Hilo. Trails are being specialty of and are carried in a great cut to the beauty spots, and roads put in variety. Visitors will receive courteous order. It was the Hilo Board of Trade attention. that called the first civic convention The railways of the four islands now which is now bringing all the Hawaiian make considerable money hauling pine- Islands together to work for each other. apples. Probably the best pineapples in The Hilo .Board of Trade is taking the the world are those raised at Wahiawa, lead in Home promotion work in between the two mountain ranges of islands. In this line of work the Hilo Oahu. A railway was built from Hono- Board of Trade has the hearty co-opera- lulu to this district to bring the pine- tion of the Hilo Railway. This Railway apples to the cannery. It is at Wahiawa has recently extended its rails thirty- two that the Thomas Pineapple Co. has its miles along the precipitous coasts of choice plantations, and daily the fresh Lapauhoehoe and beyond. This thirty- pineapples are brought by rail to their two mile rail trip is one of the scenic cannery in Honolulu where the brand trips of the world. The Hilo Railway known as "Thomas's Best" is put up. also extends in the opposite direction to This is the finest brand sent out from the hot springs of Puna, and a branch Hawaii. with the Auto Service takes the tourist The Hawaiian Islands were first to from the steamer wharf to the edge of use the wireless system, away back in • the ever active Kilauea. On the line of 1899. The Federal Wireless Telegraph the Hilo Railway ar escores of steel Company has made Honolulu the first bridges, some built almost in the form of city in the world to receive its entire a horse-shoe. Many of these bridges morning newspaper news from across were designed and constructed by the the seas by wireless. The Federal Wire- Pacific Engineering Co. of Honolulu, less supplies a minimum of 1500 words a which company also supervised the con- night to one morning paper. It never struction of the steel bridges along the fails to get these messages from either line of the Kahului Railway on the Isl-• San Francisco or Japan. It is erecting and of Maui, a swell as constructing the an equipment that will enable it to re- Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu. ceive and send messages 24 hours of the Honolulu and Hawaii are fortunate in day. having a plumbing establishment such as the one of E. W. Quinn, who has erected in Honolulu what is probably the most complete and up-to-date plumbing estab- lishment this side of the Rockies. So it is that the great and small buildings of Honolulu and Hawaii are enabled to put in the most sanitary and up-to-date The Standard Optical Co., in the plumbing at a minimum cost. There is Pantheon block on Fort St., Honolulu, no job too large or too small in the terri- grind lenses on the spot, thereby insur- tory for this perfectly equipped estab- ing perfection without delay. lishment to handle. You will do well to drop in and have Located on Fort Street, just a few a chat with Mr. Seymore about your doors from King is the Mclnery Shoe eyes—this will cost only your time and Store. All kinds of shoes at all prices may save many dollars—you are wel- for all people. This metropolitan estab- come. 22 THE MID -PACIFIC THE DONNA is an exclusive family wireless messages can be sent or received hotel composed of several cottages, be- by telephone. tween Keaumoku and Piioki streets. The VIDA VILLA, a number of cottages appointments at this hotel are perfect and and a spacious house in a luxurious gar- the home cooking makes it a residence of den of palms, which is located at 1040 permanent guests, although many tourists King street, where cars pass every five are accommodated in the season. minutes toward the business center, or THE SEASIDE HOTEL, as its name im- toward Waikiki beach. Rates per day, plies, is at Waikiki, where the famous $1.50; by the month, $35.00 up. This surf-riders come up to the beach on their home hotel is within walking distance boards. This hotel is the one, ideal of "down town." Mrs. L. B. Evans is tropical hotel in Honolulu, with the proprietor of this beautiful property. thatched cottages scattered here and Phone 1146. there among the royal coconut grove. The terms are moderate and the appoint- THE MACDONALD iS situated in the ments all that can be desired. fashionable Punahou quarter, a stately THE JOHNSON HOUSE OD Punchbowl colonial building at the end of a double street, within a block of the capitol row of royal palms. On Punahou street, Building, is in an ideal location for the adjoining the Governor's residence, the man of family who must live near the Macdonald is convenient to either the business center. Being near all the mar- Hotel street or Wilder avenue car lines. kets, the table at the Johnson House is The rates are : $2.00 per day, $14.00 per favorable, and the terms extremely mod- week, $60.00 per month and up. Mrs. erate. Margaret Macdonald, proprietor. THE HAWAII THEATER, under the di- At the corner of Beretania and Aala rection of Mr. I. Scharlin, is the little Sts., stands the business of Lee Kau, • money-maker of Honolulu. It shows who is the principal owner and manager the newest and best films and does not of the Lee Kau Co., experts in making gabble with the vaudeville, and is crowd- and repairing wagons and carriages of ed twice a night as it is the one open all description—in fact Lee Kau guar- theater in Honolulu that makes a spe- antees satisfaction—people wishing vehi- cialty of first run pictures. cles of any description should get in ATHLETIC PARK is situated in the Pa- touch with the Lee Kau Co. Telephone lama District, where the King Street 1944. Lee Kau Co. will give you the cars pass the entrance. Baseball is play- lbwest prices on carriage and wagon ed here almost all the year round and work. Mr. Lee Kau came to the Islands there teams of every nationality are twenty years ago. found opposing each other. It is one Ever since his arrival in the Hawaiian of the sights of the city, and tourists Islands thirty-seven years ago, Mr. Goo once learning their way to Athletic Park Kim Fook has been held in high esti- are its frequent guests. There is noth- mation by his associates and the gen- ing just like it any where else in the eral public, until today he stands as a world. leader among the Chinese and as part Honolulu was the first city in the world owner and manager of the Kong Sang to install a house to house telephone sys- Yuen Co., dry goods store, at 1017 Nuu- tem. The MUTUAL TELEPHONE CO. 1S anu St., between King and Hotel Sts., now perfecting the system on the other and receives the trade of all nationali- islands, having installed the automatic ties. Mr. Fook is interested in all edu- system which gives perfect satisfaction, cational movements and has two fine allowing a man of any nationality use sons, one in school and the other one the phone. The Marconi Wireless Sys- associated with him in business at the tem has its office in the same building as Kong Sang Yuen Co., store—a good that of the Mutual Telephone Co., so that place to trade. THE MID - PACIFIC 23 One hardly realizes the immense re- are received by every steamer. This is sources of the grocery store of Henry the bargain book store of the city. May & Co., in the Boston Block on Fort The oldest established Dry Goods street, unless one spends a couple of House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situat- hours taking stock of the domestic and ed at the corner of Fort and Beretania imported eatables and drinkables there Sts. For over a quarter of a century sold. Not only the largest grocery this store has held an enviable reputa- store in the Territory, but the one enjoy- tion for high-class merchandise. The ing the finest trade, Henry May & Co. are beautiful court dresses worn at the re- rightly called "The Housekeepers' Ally" ceptions and balls in the days of the Hawaiian Monarchy were made by this —as housewives have learned to depend firm. Then, as now, Sachs' was the on everything this firm sells. They make rendezvous for ladies who desired the a specialty of fine Kona (native) Coffee very best in Silks and Dress Fabrics, and have installed a gas roaster and cof- Tapestries, Draperies, Linens, Laces fee mill to make this product ready for and Millinery. the customer. Every steamer brings The business man in Hawaii outfits his Fresh California Fruit and Vegetables, office from the American-Hawaiian Paper and Supply Co. The wholesale and Puritan Creamery Butter, for cus- and retail headquarters are at the cor- tomers—many of whom have traded with ner of Fort and Queen streets. If there Henry May & Co. since the firm started, is anything from paper bags to blank many years ago. books, paper of any quality, from a pound to a ton, the American-Hawaiian In front of the Chambers Drug Store, Paper Supply Company can fill the con- at the corner of Fort and King streets, tract. the main street car lines intersect ; here No home is complete in Honolulu the shoppers and business men wait for without a ukulele, a piano and a Vic their cars. Usually they count on miss- for talking machine. The Bergstrom ing a car or two while they sit and chat Music Co., with its big store on Fort street, will provide you with these—a • at the open soda fountain that the Cham- Chickering, a Weber, a Kroeger for bers Drug Company has placed befoire your mansion, or a tiny upright Bou- their spacious open doorway on the cor- doir for your cottage ; and if you are ner. At Chambers' drug store the be- a transient it will rent you a piano. wildered tourist of the day from the big The Bergstrom Music Co., phone 2321, books your theater tickets for the liners is set straight, introduced to Dole's Royal Hawaiian Opera House. bottled pineapple juice, the drink of the Kona Coffee means the real bean country, advised as to the sights of the grown in Hawaii. One firm in Hawaii, city, supplied with any perfumes, can- the McChesney Coffee Co., on Mer- dies or drugs he may need during his chant street, makes a specialty of aging stay, and made to feel at home. and perfecting the Hawaiian coffee bean. You may phone an order for a The Cross Roads Book Shop adjoins sack of this real Old Kona Coffee to be the Hawaiian News Co., and is a contin- sent to friends in the States, but it is uation of the great fashionable bazaar. better to call in person and learn some- thing of this Hawaiian product, used in In the Cross Roads Book Store the liter- the States by coffee blenders to lend ature of America, Europe and the Orient flavor to the insipid South American is kept in stock The novels of the day coffee that floods the market. • 24 THE MID-PACIFIC d base 0) ' a 8 c d cn c9 • 4 -(4. + A til . -■ -7- -1 ' ' 1 L1 C :) Z m a H 4., S 1-r) a.i ." = •-- o ..z 5s. u) 0—, --) Cs, E v H a) 7r) ''' u, id) "0 -`4 a w b:a ■• CC 1 z .-I-■ V (a, = 4-■ ■ —' ' ") z -' -4, Li-, 1-. 4- 't W 1-1 • ". 0 0,3 a'E ,0-, +-■ •4- '' .,1• — 7'Ez- •° ''' • AG rii.7. t . 4' cri ,1+ cn .) 4 cl :., (,) , :.-_, 0 ,.., bk.5 . ::. RT • o ca 7,1 -o °-) . cn •••"" cf) u 0 ▪ „7•4 •-- E 4.)— w ,- 0) a) z •-. MO LAND 7e' ■ 0 — ,3 -+- .,(1_,.) ,c) p. cr ;,..1 oo ',•c7d‘ 46 Z -- ° b i) 0 0 d 7:• -•• :I ; • M 03 • .-! a;7,4 c; ,) _ Cd C/7 C:.,) •• e ''' • 4,_ -, • cd• - -$ .E.".) • ..o -4,- c.) ;-, -•-- , ,., a.) 0.4....=5 ;-, •1•-• "" OX 4)-1-•• Z z ■ cn b)00 '' i•-1 z I-•CI M ° 7 Z Y, S- 1-1 ... •—, • 0 a $ rn cn 0 gal rz-, 0 a.- ..0 cn t Ji -5 °uu, " °-)E-1 -czto.- " z :5' 8 ,,o-c.°,, ); .z .2 c,-E-,.-,-i • THE MID-PACIFIC 25 I wonder how many people know the origin of the "Algaroba Tree". The word "Algaroba" is derived from the Greek word Ceratonia, meaning horn, in reference to the large pod. It is a tree originally of the Mediteranean basin and belongs to the Cassia tribe. The only species remaining, when discovered, are now widely distributed in the semi-tropical climates of the world and are very valuable for both shade and its edible pods. "Algaroba" trees grow to a height of fifty feet or more, are always green and bearing. In Europe the "Algaroba" beans are highly prized for fattening live stock; even in the markets of the North the dry pods are to be seen. The Longissima variety differs only in having very long pods. In the Hawaiian Islands the "Algaroba" grows abundantly and harvests large returns for the owner as well as to provide excellent shade for stock. The "Union Feed Co." of Honolulu have, after many years study in the grinding of "Algaroba" beans, finally decided upon the use of a mill manufactured exclusively by the Williams Patent Crusher & Pulverizing Co. of St. Louis, Mo. This is the only mill which has been proven to grind "Alga- roba" beans to a consistency wherein all the food values are obtained. The "Union Feed Co." of Honolulu have the exclusive agency for these mills in the Hawaiian Islands. By feeding "Algaroba" food you will get "more milk from your cows," "fatter hogs, beef and poultry for the market," "more eggs from your hens," "better looking and stronger horses for show or work," and at a less cost than any other grain food. The Union Feed Co. of Honolulu in addition to the "Algaroba bean food carry a full line of imported hay and grains for stock purposes. Enquiry by mail will be promptly replied to. Address all communications to UNION FEED CO., Honolulu, T. H. Cable address, Ajax. A beautiful and somewhat valuable pic- written in view of acquainting the incom- ture is often ruined by neglecting to have ing tourist of an excellent place to pro- it framed. The ARTS & CRAFTS SHOP, cure meals while in the city. Table-d-hote LTD., 1122 Fort street, Honolulu, T. H., lunches and dinners at popular prices are experts in the art of picture framing prevail and it is needless to say the crui- and will guarantee satisfaction and serv- sine is the best the market affords. ice. Bring in your Picture today 4nd Prompt service and courteous treatment talk it over. Picture sent by mail will is the slogan of the "Union Grill" on be promptly frame and returned. Don't King Street, ask anybody to direct you forget the name ARTS & CRAFTS SHOP, when hungry. Mr. J. D. Detor, who LTD., 1122 Fort St., Honolulu, T. H. has had many years' experience in hotel "Maile" Australian butter frrom the and cafe work, is in charge. Metropolitan Meat Market on King St., Probably one of the most widely known stands at the head for flavor and keeping wholesale commiss;on merchants in the quality and is guaranteed. It is here Hawaiian Islands is F. E. DAVIES & Co. you also get the tender meats and fresh corner Merchant and Nuuanu streets. vegetables of which an abundant supply It is here you may place orders for is always on hand. Heilbron & Louis Wagons, Bicycles and Bicycle Tires, proprietors, have built up a wonderful Hardware, Dry Goods, Shoes, heavy business through constancy and many Chemicals for plantation use, all kinds years' experience until now the METRO- and sizes of Rubber Hose and Belting, POLITAN MEAT MARKET iS the central and in fact nearly all commodities of and most popular market place in Hono- commercial value can be ordered through lulu. Telephone 1814. this enterprising concern. Enquiries by While the UNION GRILL is recognized mail will receive prompt attention and as the most popular Cafe in Honolulu by those who call at our offices will receive all progressive Hawaiians, this article is courteous treatment. 26 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 27 Entrance of Lewers & Cooke's large establishment. The VON HAMM YOUNG Co., Import- successful "Chicken" raising in the Ha- ers, Machinery Merchants and leading waiian Islands. automobile dealers, have their offices and On or about January 1st, 1914, the store in the Alexander Young Building, KELLOGG AUTO & REPAIR SHOP, Mr. C. at the corner of King and Bishop S. ts., E. Kellogg proprietor, will move into and their magnificent automobile sales- the new building now being erected at room and garage just in the rear, facing the corner of South and King streets, a on Alakea street. Here one may find few doors mauka of the present location. almost anything desired in the machin- A fully equipped machine shop will be ery line, as well as the most extensive installed in the new building so that auto and complete line of automobile supplies repairing and all kinds of machine work in the Islands, to say nothing of the large will go hand in hand. A picture of the stock of automobiles. new building will be shown in the next Chicken raising in the Hawaiian Isl- number of this magazine. ands can be successfully carried on at a profit of from 50 to 100 per cent. The "CALIFORNIA FEED Co." of Honolulu will give full instructions to anyone who is interested in "Chicken" raising as to the best methods of procedure, how to start, how to avoid and cure sore-head and some general dont's in the raising of "Chickens" will be given free to those who answer this article. Just drop a line to the "CALIFORNIA FEED CO.", Ho- nolulu, for full information regarding 28 THE MID-PACIFIC A Typical Hawaiian Coconut Grove. THE MID -PACIFIC 2) Unadulterated bread and pastry is an leaders of men and his management to- essential need in every home—the Sam gether with Mr. Wong Vun, who studied WO Co., bakery at 384 North Beretania in the famous Mitchell School of Tailor- St., under the management of S. Lum ing in New York City, as a partner, Fat, has for years supplied the homes of make the W. W. Ahana Co. hard to ex- Honolulu with pure b; ead and pastry. cel as exclusive tailors. A steady growth of the business clearly Rising from a common gardener of demonstrates what the quality must be 43 years ago, Mr. Y. Ahin is now the —telephone orders are promptly deliv- possessor of many lands and a fine family ered to all parts of the c'ty. of children all born in these Islands. At A suit of clothes made by the W. W. the age of sixty years he supervises his Ahana Co., on King St., Honolulu, de-. vast estate, and is hale and hearty with notes correct style, fit and selection from a proud father in China at the ripe old exclusive imported fabrics of exclusive age of ninety-four years ; over $2000.00 pattern and design. Mr. Chuck Hoy is a month is his monthly rental collec- known to all who keep in touch with t'ons for improved property. • • 30 THE MID-PACIFIC mitmori , 1C7,11C7PICNIUNVITUT • 4.1.1,43•44PAM.•111 %,141 99999 4, •111 • 1,4894MMO N MJIM01,4, The field laborers of the Hawaiian Pineapple Products Co. are here seen sorting out the pines after picking. Whether for canning or preparing Dole's Pineapple Juice, the whole interior of the pine is used. itstristitct•Wiarettirearii acirrefertaitreartalt•Itrtaristall' alittstaiNtitteltriclAittiftreNt•triAlt•li • VIWIWPriiili • eirrictrect iVictiVii '•It• • ret•ttavVitlb AdrilltrUNMY.Alfit triAlrrctr • d-MaliiNtiel PRINTED ST HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN. MERCHANT ST. BRANCH